Clothing Construction Guidelines and Forms
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
EC71-475 Relining Coats and Jackets Jane Speece
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Extension Lincoln Extension 1971 EC71-475 Relining Coats and Jackets Jane Speece Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist Speece, Jane, "EC71-475 Relining Coats and Jackets" (1971). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. 4065. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/4065 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. E. C. 71·475 I ~ I ~ 0-t I ~: I I I RELINING -+- __ _I . I I I I COATS and JACKETS I I I _I __ _ ~W:(ClEKW\ElD) \~ DGT 11 1971 COLLt.GE OF P.GRICUUURE UBRP.RY EXTENSION SERVI CE f \ UNI VERS ITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGR ICULTURE ' ' COOPERATI NG W ITH THE U .S. DEPARTMENT OF AGR ICULTURE • AND THE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMI CS. '•·····•" E. F. FROLI K, DEAN; .J. L. ADAMS, D I RECTOR 1elininR COATS and JACKETS By Jane Speece Extension Specialist (Clothing) establish The fabric of a coat or jacket usually is good long after straight the lining begins to wear. Relining the garment, which is not of grain difficult to do once the procedures are known, could put a favorite garment back into your wardrobe to give you many more years of wear. The first step is to rip out the old lining. -
Instructions-BUTTON-UP-DRESS.Pdf
BUTTON-UP DRESS ISSUE 39 SKILL LEVEL In the Folds patterns are designed to inspire and encourage modern makers to create garments that are beautiful both inside ABOUT CONTENTS and out. Through selected techniques and construction details, IN THE In the Folds aims to encourage thought-provoking and ABOUT IN THE FOLDS 3 memorable making experiences - helping you enjoy each stitch in PATTERNS FOLDS the process. PATTERNS GARMENT OVERVIEW 4 Techniques may differ slightly to the home sewing methods you (INCLUDING FABRIC SUGGESTIONS AND NOTIONS) are used to, but in some cases industrial finishes will give you the cleanest and most professional finish. SIZING + GARMENT 5 MEASUREMENTS Seam allowances are marked on each pattern piece and detailed (INCLUDING FABRIC REQUIREMENTS) in each step. You will notice that in some cases the seam allowances meet each PRINTING THE PATTERN 6 other at different angles at the end of the seam. This is so that PRINTING PLAN 7 when you press the seam allowances open the seams will sit flush with the edges and will help you get a really clean finish. CUTTING YOUR FABRIC 8 In the Folds patterns are designed to include thoughtful Consider using fabric SUGGESTED CUTTING PLAN 9-10 details and interesting techniques so that you can enjoy the from your stash before process of making the garment as much as the end result. going to buy something INSTRUCTIONS 11-20 new. I dare you. If we slow down and take in every stitch, we can better You might be surprised GLOSSARY 21 our skills, appreciate the amazing things we can do with by what you find there. -
Hemmer Foot (ESG-HF) Instructions
Baby Lock Sewing Accessories Hemmer Foot (ESG-HF) Instructions This foot is designed to curl under a 3mm double hem while stitching with either a straight stitch or a decorative Parisian hemstitch. Works best on lightweight fabrics. 4. Position the fabric (reverse side facing up) under the presser This presser foot can be used on a sewing machine with a foot. Lower the needle 3 mm from the edges of the fabric, zigzag stitch width up to 7 mm. lower the presser foot, then sew 2 or 3 stitches. 1. Remove presser foot and attach snap-on narrow hemmer foot. 5. Raise the needle and the presser foot, and then hold the ends of the upper thread and lower thread to prevent them from being pulled out of the fabric and pull the fabric out from the front of the presser foot. 2. Select the straight stitch (center needle position). 3. Connect the foot controller so that both hands are free to guide the fabric. 6. Holding both threads, pass them through the curled part HINTS: If too little fabric is wrapped around the curl and a of the presser foot and pull them toward the back of the threefold seam is not being sewn: pull the fabric held in your presser foot. Wrap the fabric around the curled part of the right hand to the left in order to increase the amount of fabric presser foot in the same way. Position the edge of the fabric wrapped in the presser foot curl. At the same time, carefully just behind the needle and lower the presser foot. -
Mechanism and Formation of Woven Selvage Lines
Mechanism and Formation of Woven Selvage Lines By Sei Uchiyama, Member,TMSJ Takatsuki Institute, Toyobo Co., Ltd. Takatsuki, Osaka Pref. Basedon Journalof the TxetileMachinery Society of Japan, Vol.19, No.11, T284-289(1966); Vol.19, No. 12, T309-315 (1966); Vol.20, No. 2, T49-56 (1967) ; Vol.20 , No.2, T57-60 (1967) Abstract This article discussestheoretically the mechanismof a woven selvage line and establishesbasic knowledgeabout, among other things, its dynamic construction, the differencesbetween the selvage and the body of a fabric, the process of stabilizingthe form of a selvage. interlaced to form a selvage is x,=C. This location 1. Introduction is a function of T-,, a force which pulls the selvage- formation point to the left ; and of T+,, a force which This work is an attempt to clarify the weaving pulls that point to the right. mechanism of a selvage as part of a research into the xi=f (T-1, T+1) .........(1) function of weaving. Seldom is the selvage of a fabric Assume that, with the progress of weaving cycles, specially woven. It is a by-product, so to say, of a fabric. xi transforms into, sucessively, x2, x3 and x; and is However, it should not be ignored, because it improves stabilized on reaching xn. xi, an optional point x at that the quality of a fabric, protects its ground and facili- time, is given as a function of xi-1. That is, tates the processing and handling of the fabric. It is xi=~5i-i(xi-,) believed, therefore, that establishing a theoretical basis xi-1=~Si-2(xi-2) for obtaining a uniform selvage is an undertaking of Also, practical value and will help to expand the range of x1~x2C"' "'.xi-1Cxi+1"' "'xn=xn+j reseach into weaving. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 1 Apply style tape to your dress form to establish the bust level. Tape from the left apex to the side seam on the right side of the dress form. 1 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 2 Place style tape along the front princess line from shoulder line to waistline. 2 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3A On the back, measure the neck to the waist and divide that by 4. The top fourth is the shoulder blade level. 3 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3B Style tape the shoulder blade level from center back to the armhole ridge. Be sure that your guidelines lines are parallel to the floor. 4 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 4 Place style tape along the back princess line from shoulder to waist. 5 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 1 To find the width of your center front block, measure the widest part of the cross chest, from princess line to centerfront and add 4”. Record that measurement. 6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2 For your side front block, measure the widest part from apex to side seam and add 4”. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 3 For the length of both blocks, measure from the neckband to the middle of the waist tape and add 4”. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 4 On the back, measure at the widest part of the center back to princess style line and add 4”. -
CO Guide to Judging Clothing
Colorado 4-H Guide for Clothing Judges Standards of Quality Clothing Construction Introduction One of our basic tasks in evaluating or judging is to be able to recognize and identify the standards that give a garment a finished, professional look. There are many techniques that can be used to accomplish the same end product. Each of us has techniques that we like and techniques that we dislike. In an objective evaluation it is essential to play down our personal preferences and to build upon identified and accepted standards. In general, there are some standards that apply to almost all techniques. Almost all construction techniques should result in an area, finish or detail that is: • Inconspicuous o Flat and smooth o Free from bulk o Stitching a uniform distance from an edge or fold • Functional • Durable –stitching uniform and secure Specific standards that can be expected in good construction are listed on the following pages. They are organized by techniques and/or areas, and the techniques are presented in alphabetical order. Overall Appearance Be objective when considering the overall appearance and appeal of a garment. It may be helpful to think about there being at least one especially pleasing feature about this garment, reflecting the many hours of though, effort and creativity that went into its construction. It may be the design, fabric, use of unusual technique or detail. Particularly neat and well-done machine or handstitching, etc. o Overall neatness and cleanliness o Plaids, stripes, checks and other designs matched at seams o Fabric with a direction in design or nap issued in garment in one direction unless garment design requires variation. -
Placket Construction Options
Placket Construction Options 1 Type1: Two Separate Bound Edges on a rectangular stitching box The key to this structure is that the bindings are initially stitched only to the seam allowances on each side, and NOT stitched across the end, of the clipped box, which means that they, and the clipped triangle at the bottom, remain loose and can be arranged before the nal nishing to go on either side of the fabric, as well as either over or under the other, after joining them at the sides. The widths and lengths of the bindings and the space between the sides of the clipped box determine all the other options available in this most exible of all the placket types I know of. Variation 1: Both bindings t inside the stitching box If you cut the bindings so the nished, folded widths of both are equal to or smaller than the space between the initial stitching lines, as shown above, you can arrange both ends at the clipped corners to all go on one side of the fabric (right or wrong side), along with the clipped triangle on the garment. You’ll get the best results if the underlapping binding is slightly smaller than the overlapping one. This can be man- aged by taking slightly deeper seam allowances when you join this piece, so they can initially be cut from the same strip. Or, you can place one end on each side with the Both ends on RS One end on RS, Both ends on WS triangle sandwiched in between. -
Stitches and Seam Techniques
Stitches and Seam Techniques Seen on Dark Age / Medieval Garments in Various Museum Collections The following notes have been gathered while attempting to learn stitches and construction techniques in use during the Dark Ages / Medieval period. The following is in no way a complete report, but only an indication of some techniques observed on extant Dark Ages / Medieval garments. Hopefully, others who are researching “actual” garments of the period in question will also report on their findings, so that comparisons can be made and a better total understanding achieved. Jennifer Baker –New Varangian Guard – Hodegon Branch – 2009 Contents VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES 1. RUNNING STITCH 2. OVERSEWING 3. HERRINGBONE 4. BLANKET STITCH SEAMS 1. SEAMS 2. BUTTED SEAMS 3. STAND-UP SEAM 4. SEAMS SPREAD OPEN AFTER JOIN IS MADE 5. “LAPPED” FELL SEAM 6. FELL SEAM WORKED ON WRONG SIDE OF GARMENT FINISHES ON RAW EDGES OF SEAMS SEWING ON TABLET WOVEN BRAID HEMS OTHER STITCHES FOUND IN ARCHEOLOGICAL FINDS REFERENCES 1 Stitches and Seam Techniques VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES There are only four basic stitches to master: 1. RUNNING STITCH , 2. OVERSEWING, ALSO KNOWN AS OVERCAST STITCH OR WHIP STITCH 3. HERRINGBONE , ALSO KNOWN AS CATCH STITCH 4. AND BLANKET STITCH. ALSO KNOWN AS BUTTONHOLE STITCH Running stitch is probably the easiest to start with followed by oversewing. With these two stitches you can make clothing. The other two are for decorative edging. These directions are for a right handed person, if you are left handed remember to reverse all directions. 2 Stitches and Seam Techniques RUNNING STITCH A running stitch is done through one or more layers of fabric (but normally two or more), with the needle going down and up, down and up, in an essentially straight line. -
Lapped Zipper Lapped Zippers Are Often Found on Skirts at the Waistband
Sewing Technique: Lapped Zipper Lapped zippers are often found on skirts at the waistband. A lapped zipper is constructed so that the zipper is not visible. The zipper will remain closed throughout the process of inserting the zipper. All sewing is done on the inside of the garment except for topstitching. Remember to always keep the needle positioned between the zipper foot and the zipper teeth when sewing. NOTE: Throughout this tutorial, the term “placket” will be used. A placket is the fabric that surrounds and reinforces fasteners in a garment. In this instance, the fastener referred to in this tutorial is a zipper. STEP 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, measure and mark the placket opening BASTING where the zipper STITCH will be placed. Do this by measuring from the top of the garment down along the seam to the zipper bottom stop. Take into consideration the REGULAR composition of garment and if there will be a waistband or MACHINE STITCH any other special feature at the top of the zipper. Mark the placement of the bottom stop with a marking pencil. STEP 2: While sewing the seam, machine stitch the seam closed until the marked point of the bottom of the zipper, backstitch, then switch to a basting stitch for the distance of the placket seam. Press seam allowance open. $-05)*/( CONSTRUCTION 6UBI4UBUFJTBOBóSNBUJWFBDUJPOFRVBMPQQPSUVOJUZJOTUJUVUJPO STEP 3: Replace sewing machine foot with a zipper foot. Place zipper face down with the teeth centered on the pressed open seam on the inside of the garment, matching top and bottom stops with marks. -
2000 Proceedings Cincinnati, OH
Cincinnati, OH USA 2000 Proceedings DOGWOOD IN GREEN AND GOLD Tammy Abbey Central Washington University, Ellensburg, WA 98926 The purpose in creating this piece is to design an elegant garment through the combination of two very different techniques, metalsmithing and sewing. This design was inspired by extensive study in both metalworking and sewing and by blooming dogwood. The garment can be described as a dark green, fully lined dress in a polyester crepe satin. It is designed with princess lines and a gold charmeuse godet in the back. The dress is strapless and supported by the metal "lace." The "lace" is formed with brass blossoms and leaves that wrap the shoulders and overlap the front and the back of the dress. Brass blossoms also accent the godet. Construction began with an original pattern which was hand drafted. A muslin test garment was sewn, fitted and used to adjust the pattern. The main body of the dress was sewn and an invisible zipper was installed. A godet was sewn into the back. A polyester lining was sewn and then added to the dress. After the body of the dress was completed, the metal work began. Blossoms and leaves were cut from sheet brass. Then each was individually chased (hand shaped with the use of hammers and tools.) The pieces were given a copper patina (coloring) and brass brushed to a matte golden color. A dress form was used to assemble a base web of brass chain onto which the blossoms were sewn into place with thread and wire. Two blossoms and chain were added in the back to accent the godet and to contain it. -
4-H 168 Sewing for Fun : Leader's Guide
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and 4-H Youth Development Publications 1986 4-H 168 Sewing for Fun : Leader's Guide Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory "4-H 168 Sewing for Fun : Leader's Guide" (1986). Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications. 338. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory/338 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the 4-H Youth Development at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. RD2134 40677 Nebraska Cooperative Extension Service 4-H 168 Leader's Guide ~ Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1 914, in cooperation with the {~\ ...,... U.S. Department of Agriculture. Leo E. Lucas, Director of Cooperative Extension Service, University of Nebraska, : . · ~ Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources. • • • ........~ The Cooperative Extension Service provides information and educattonal programs to all people wtthout regard to race, color. nattonal or~gtn , sex or hand•cap. Sewing for Fun Introduction Four-H'ers enroll in sewing projects because they Congratulations on assuming the role of a 4-H sewing want to learn to sew. They want articles they can use project leader. Teaching young people to sew is a satis and enjoy. If leaders always expect perfection, members fying activity in which you can take part. Like most 4-H may be discouraged and lose interest.