A drive across the Gothard

Autor(en): [s.n.]

Objekttyp: Article

Zeitschrift: The Swiss observer : the journal of the Federation of Swiss Societies in the UK

Band (Jahr): - (1971)

Heft 1627

PDF erstellt am: 04.10.2021

Persistenter Link: http://doi.org/10.5169/seals-690385

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Founded in 1919 by Paul F. Boehringer The Official Organ of the Swiss Colony in Great Britain Vol. 57 No. 1627 FRIDAY, 12th NOVEMBER, 1971 A DRIVE ACROSS THE GOTHARD V ^ Vv /< mzcfer has sen/ as /he /oZZowin«? varied aspects. The gorge becomes Descending from the Luckmanier Pass acco««/ o/ a 77-m/Ze /'onrney across narrower and the valley wilder and This the /he Grisons a/G /he Fessln. Star/in,g more barren. A number of hamlets fol- magnificent road, linking Romansch speaking Anterior Rhine 0/ Disen/is (see /nap he/owl he drove low. Platta, a scattered village, and in the Grisons the /o via /he Lack/nanierpass and Acla, where the Medels Rhine forms Valley with Italian Brenno in re///rned /o Tdospen/aZ hy /he Go/hard. the Fiimatsch waterfall, then Pardatsch speaking Valley , shows in succession of 7/e has no/ed down h/'s /7npres.v/on.v in at the entrance of Val Cristallina, a rumbling gorges raging waters to boundless alpine ,?rea/ de/ad and h/s repor/ w/7Z doah/- wild valley abounding in waterfalls and pas- in a sun-clad meridional Zess happy re/n/nZscences minerals. The forest now almost dis- tures valley. con/are ap From the the road /hose who know and Zove /his the mountains come nearer pass slopes gently among appears, into Val Santa Maria and the Brenno of Swi/zerZan/Z. again, rising to 9,000 ft. The road par/ river then the the small hospices of Sogn Gion to Acquacalda, through passes Valle di in series and Sogn Gagl (Romansch for Saint Lucumagno a of long windings with a magnificent view of From Disentis the road takes us Gions and St. Gall) to the important the Olivone and the Rheinwald- to the Rhine, then winding its hospice of Santa Maria near the sum- Valley way horn massif, the the through several tunnels and the wild mit of the Luckmanier Pass, 1,916m., highest summit of Adula range. gorge and waterfall of the Medels one of the most beautiful alpine passes Rhine (Reno di ), reaches Car- in . In consideration of the Olivone, at the foot of the granitic aglia, with its bulb coifed church- Stausee Santa Maria (lake barrage), Sosto pyramid, 2,223m., is a beautiful tower, and surrounded by fir-tree for- important road constructions have and most interesting alpine village of ests, only three miles from Disentis. been effected between Sogn Gion and the canton of Ticino, a favourite holi- The Medel Valley presents the most the Passo del Lucomagno. day resort, the climate is excellent. It is from Olivone, 890m., that are made the ascents of the Rheinwaldhorn, 5fsr£/v/*ss ,/Uracw caw 3,402m., highest point of the canton, Scopi, 3,202m., and Lago Retica, 2,378m. Less than four miles north of Olivone are the Compieto Waterfall and the famous Sosto Gorge, a visit well worth the little way round to the motorist not in a hurry. From Olivone, where the properly so-called Val starts, the valley comprises many villages surrounded with meadows and cultivated fields, with orchards and vineyards lower down the valley. Chestnut tree forests and all the vegetation has a meridional aspect. Both sides of the valley present a very different character. On the left towers the Adula massif with its es- carped snowy summits and fearful in- cline of their slopes, with ravines and brooks which, after heavy rainfalls, are the cause of great damage. On the right is the large range of the Pizzo di Molare, 2,588m., without well marked summits with gentle slopes, and small lateral valleys.

A bit of history The Val Blenio is also exposed to rock falls. Three quarter-mile upstream of Biasca the road by-passes a mass of huge blocks known as the "Buzza di afu/azoa/t * Biasca". This enormous heap of mat- ing the magnificent panorama of Val waterfalls of a stream from the Pizzo CIk SiDiss Obseroer Blenio, the view is admirable, a fore- Magno can be admired. ground of trees and chalets enhance The entire Valle Leventina is trav- Published Twice Monthly at the tableau. Acquarossa, reputed for elled along an excellent road and the 63/67 TABERNACLE STREET is fre- Gotthard both LONDON E.C.2 its ferruginous springs, a much railway line, presenting Tel.: 01-253 2321 quented spa in summer. From Acqua- galleries, tunnels and daring stone or Telegrams: Paperwyse Stock London rossa the valley is connected by railway iron bridges which are remarkable en- coach works The Tes- HON. PRESIDENT: Robert J. Keller to Biasca and by a postal ser- gineering of art. river EDITOR: Pierre-Michel Béguin vice to Disentis in summer. Above the sin, or Ticino, is the most important Advisory Council: village of Dongio, in a grotto called river of the canton, which it traverses Gottfried Keller (Chairman) Casa dei Pagani (Pagan's house) which and to which it has given its name; O. F. Boehringer, J.P., (Hon. Sec.) in the middle-ages served as a refuge it has its source at 2,480m., in the Nu- F. Dr. C. Burri, Eusebio, Jagmetti and observation the fenenpass, Passo Novena, the high- (Press Attaché Swiss Emb.) post. At Aquila, or A. Kunz, R. M. Suess, B. Simon first village after Olivone, there is a est Swiss alpine pass, in the St. Gott- PREPAID SUBSCRIPTION RATES road for the other side of Val Blenio hard massif, and its mouth in Lago (POST FREE) to villages chiefly engaged in cattle- Maggiore, 193m., Switzerland's lowest UNITED KINGDOM breeding. Marolta is frequented for the altitude over sea level. The valley of 24 issues £2.40 ascent of the Pizzo Molare. Leontica the Ticino, with its grandiose dimen- 12 issues £1.25 is the sions and tinctures, has in all 6 issues £0.65 the highest village of valley. no equal SWITZERLAND and elsewhere The Ticinese are very attracted to the alps. 12 issues Frs. 13—or £1.30 their country. The emigrants never 24 issues Frs. 25—or £2.50 leave without hope of return, their love Ascending the Leventina Swiss subscriptions be paid into for the native land never weakens, even may 3km. from Biasca, is the Postcheck Konto Basle 40—5718 after long of absence, and , many years first of the Valle Leventina on Editor's telephone: 01-602 1378 . with its beautiful villas, bears village the left bank of the at the foot witness to the who have returned Ticino, many of the rocks he Sasso Semione is indeed nice with granitic forming a village the orchards and di Polegio. , next village, is meadows, vineyards, the of Stefano Francini erials left by the great rock-slide of chestnut-tree forests. Near the village, birthplace 1512 descended the Pizzo (1796-1857), geographer and statisti- that from a small ridge, one can standing on cian. "The Father of the edu- Magno, blocked up the Brenno, trans- admire the ruins of the Castello di Ser- popular cation of Ticino and of the Swiss sta- forming the valley in an immense lake. ravalle, first mentioned in history in tistics", Federal Councillor, died in Fourteen months later, at Whitsun, 1221. A suspension bridge leads to Berne in 1857. Then 1514, the barrage broke up, the water . comes , causing destruction and hundreds of mostly on the left bank of the Ticino, shaded deaths in Biasca, devastating the valley Biasca with meadows by chestnut- of the Riviera to Lago Maggiore. Fligh- trees and vine-growings on trells work. er up the pile of rocks and stones, the Biasca is a very interesting and Two picturesque bridges connect the huge cicatrice of the rupture on the important industrial town at the end other side of the village. It is in Gior- Monte Crenone can be clearly seen. of the Blenio Valley, at the confluence nico, at Sassi Grossi (Great Stones) The Brenno was the cause of terrible of the Leventina and Riviera, where that on the 28th December, 1478, the inundations in 1747, 1785, 1829 and the river Ticino receives the Brenno. celebrated battle took place and where 1868; since then important construe- Biasca possesses a church, mentioned 10.000 Milanese were completely rout- tions of correction, embankment and for the first time in 1213, as the princi- ed by 950 Swiss under the captaincy of reafforestation have repressed the pal of Val Blenio, of Troger of Uri, Frischhaus of Lu- destructive force of the elements. Valle Leventina and the lower valley cerne and Stanga of Giornico. At that Between Olivone and the import- of the Ticino. It is a beautiful monu- place the valley is very narrow and, ant railway centre of Biasca, on the ment of ancient architecture, with like they did at Mortgarten, the Swiss left side of the Brenno, are sited beauti- paintings of the 15th and 16th cen- hurled rocks on their opponents. Near ful and industrious villages. Dangio turies, and sculptures of Roman origin. Giornico are beautiful waterfalls and Torre, at the foot of a larch-tree Another , Rotonda de formed by the streams Folda, Barolgia forest, possess saw mills, métallurgie St. Charles, is a magnificent modern and Cramosina. The memorable jour- works, an electric power station, and edifice. The Protestant community has ney from Giornica to Lavorgo, our until recently the oldest chocolate fac- also a beautiful temple. South of the next village, through the narrow gorge tory in Switzerland. Lottigna is enjoy- town, opposite the railway station, the of the Biashina, is one of the most

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2 picturesque and audacious stretches of slopes, those villages and hamlets, The road now goes down in gentle both the Gotthard road and railway their churches and houses of gay col- slopes along the valley and river Gott- line. Before reaching Lavorgo there is ours, have a picturesque and charming hardreuss to Hospental, 1,484m., in an interesting road to , at aspect. the Ursereu Valley, and where our and most the entrance of the Val of he same Now on our way to , on the marvellous journey enjoy- name, watered by the Ticinello, tribu- southern foot of the St. Gotthard and able day end. where the Furkareuss tary to the Ticino. Chironico is a beau- the great road first constructed between Hospental, tiful mountain village and the starting 1820 and 1830. Passage of Swiss, Aus- joins the Gotthardreuss, in lovely posi- banks the is point to the ascent of , trian, French and Russian troops in tion on both of Reuss, 2,907m. The region has many chamois. 1798 and 1799. Airolo is a beautiful also the winter sports centre for the Lavorgo is an important station town, reconstructed after the terrible Gemsstock, 2,961m., and the Gotthard of the Gotthard line. Here are prosper- fire of 1877, and again in 1898 after massif. We spent the night at Hospen- ous quarries of grey granite which is the disastrous land-slide from the Sasso tal. the starting point for our next jour- exported in enormous blocks, either Rosso. Favourite holiday resort in ney through the Furka and Grimsel rough or cut to different sizes and summer. Like most of the other places Passes to Brienz and the Bernese Alps. shapes, and also polished like marble we have visited, Airolo has excellent From Disentis to the Luckmanier, and back the St. by a special process. Lavorgo is the hotels and restaurants. Biasca, through Gott- hard to Hospental, the distance is only junction of good mountain roads to fortifications exist Important on 123km. (77 miles) allowing plenty of several villages with a splendid view the of the Gotthard defend slopes to time for visiting places of interest. We of the Leventina:— Colonico, Anzon- the road and the Italian side entrance recommend to our London friends ico, and Cavagnano which has of the tunnel. ferruginous springs. These villages are visiting Switzerland, a day's outing to Soon after Airolo situated on the "Strada alta", the old leaving long this beautiful part of the country, leav- of the road be road and pathway from Airolo windings can seen on ing an impression and souvenir they upper the to Biasca. the slopes towering town. They will never forget. are strengthened by strong granite walls (P.S.) , with magnificent fir-tree having the semblance of fortifications. forests, is a favourite holiday resort in The Val Tremola (named Triimenthal summer. On the village square -tands in German), "the Valley of Turmoil", bronze Stefano a statue of Francini. is one of the wildest and most interest- with in the vicin- Faido, many villages ing of the alps. Its road has more than COMMENT is industrious and noted ity, very for 20 long bends and a few bridges. The its cattle show and market. Just after stream that flows through the valley OUTCOME OF THE FEDERAL the village is the superb Piumogna frays itself a passage between rocks ELECTIONS Waterfall. Rodi-Fiesso, another village and frightening whirlpools. At the end tourists in is attracting summer, re- of the valley, one kilometre from the The chart overleaf nowned for cattle breeding and the printed gives a St. Gotthard Hospice, carved on the bird's view of the results of the making of delicious cheese. Ambri, eye rock is the inscription "Suwaroii Vic- Federal Elections and shows how the 975m., on the right bank of the Ticino, torii", to recall the passage of the Rus- Swiss people will be represented at the is the Gotthard station of Quinto, on sians in 1799. The ancient road section National Council for the next four the left bank, at 1,014m., and the of Val Tremola, now released of traffic It leads to a few obvious con- greatest of the canton. Ambri years. by the new road, can be visited with elusions : is in a picturesque position amidst joy and at one's leisure. We choose the —The elections have hardly altered pleasant meadows, at the foot of Pizzo recently constructed and impressive the representative of the Na- Petrano, 2,667m., church built in 1681, pattern great road by-passing the Val Tremola. tional Council. The four main parties with a curious architectural very The meridional side of the road com- represented in Government have lost steeple. The red abounds on the lily mands at first a grand panoramic view only a marginal number of seats. neighbouring rocky slopes. of Val and the Valentina, the The Independent Party, which repre- occasion of looking back and paying sents the has Approaching the consumers, relatively farewell to our Ticinese friends. "Arri- suffered most from the elections. Piotta, 1.012m., a lovely village where vederci fino all' anno prossimo!" —One can't speak of a "swing to the ancient houses built of wood can still right" just because of the success of be seen, is the Gotthard station for the Republicans and the National Val Piora siuated on the souh side of Back to the valley Action, both advocating the repatria- the St. Gotthard massif and one of tion of because This national road of the St. excess foreigners, the most beautiful high valleys of great neither of them existed in 1967. Gotthard running its through Switzerland and visited by a great num- way However, the elections do reflect the and along slopes, deep ber of mountain lovers. The valley gorges steep basic conservatism of the Swiss, their into the rock, as countless several small lakes distin- cuttings contentment and their wish for con- possesses windings, viaducts, bridges, tunnels guished by their changing colours and tinuity. and galleries against avalanches and the of their waters in which —The young and Radicals (in the Eng- limpidity stones, is a masterpiece of Swiss the neighbouring mountains are reflec- falling lish acceptation) are not represented Civil Engineering. ted. The greatest and prettiest of them at all. They voted for fringe and is Lake Ritom, 1,850m., 2^km. long The passage of the St. Gotthard, local parties and have not wrested and (km. wide. This region is a paint- for a long time the most important of seats at the federal level. er's paradise. The flora is one of the the Swiss Alps, is also one of the most —The existence of 10 parties repre- richest of the Swiss Alps. The road to varied and beautiful if considered in sented at the National Council could Val Piora commands a fine view of its entire length, from Lake Lucerne not from the outset have led to any Ambri's military airfield. to Lago Maggiore; it is the central pas- dramatic change. The multiplicity of of all the Swiss Alps, where the The Ticino is a beautiful canton. sage parliamentary parties and the rule Alps of Berne, Grisons, Valais, Uri Few countries present such richness by consensus ensures the harmony and Ticino rejoin. Swiss life. Note that and so great a variety of artistic build- of parliamentary there often than 10 ings as is seen in every village, even The Passo del San Gottardo, are more parties in the humblest and most isolated. 2,108m.. near the site known as at local level. There was a list of 18 From the fascinating delight of a sunny "Bruggloch", marks the border be- in Zurich. countryside to the austerity of alpine tween the cantons of Ticino and Uri. —The National Action had more sue-

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