The Best of Boston Boston

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1 The Best of Boston

Boston is one of the best-looking 375-year-olds around. It attracted the atten- tion of the world in 2004 with a Super Bowl victory, a huge new convention center, a national political convention, and (of all things) a revolutionary new highway that incorporates a landmark bridge. In 2005, the city is ready to show off its new face. Like Samuel Johnson’s fabled noose, the impending Democratic convention focused the minds of city planners in 2004. The improvements introduced in time for the convention in late July, from street signs to landscaping, will enhance every visitor’s Boston experience. The most prominent example of an improvement is the demolition of the elevated expressway that used to slash through downtown, separating the waterfront from the rest of the city and offending the sensibilities of those who had to pass over, under, or near it. That 15-year, $14.6 billion project, known as the Big Dig, will be wrapping up when you visit, mending the scar left when traffic on Interstate 93 moved into an underground tunnel and the old highway came down. The new highway runs beneath a modern metropolis that’s also a relentlessly historic destination. An ongoing building boom may overshadow the famous 18th- and 19th-century architecture, but even rampant development can’t change the colonial character of the central city. It’s not perfect, of course. Nightmarish traffic, daredevil drivers, and grating accents don’t help any city’s reputation. Although Boston is the biggest college town in the world, there isn’t much of a late-night scene. And far from gone is the inferiority complex epitomized by the description “like New York, but smaller.” Still, as it has for 375 years, Boston offers cosmopolitan sophistication on a comfortable scale, balancing celebration of the past with pursuit of the future. Here’s hoping your experience is memorable and delightful.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Boston Experiences • A Sky Full of Fireworks: Twice • A Meal at Durgin-Park: Din- during IndependenceCOPYRIGHTED Day festivi- ner at MATERIAL this Boston institution (it ties and again as the New Year opened in 1827) might start with begins, the firmament flashes in oysters. It might also start with a celebration. The Fourth of July waitress slinging a handful of nap- fireworks are over the Charles kins over your shoulder, dropping River; the Harborfest display (in a pile of cutlery in front of you, early July) and the First Night and saying, “Here, give these out.” show explode above the Inner The surly service usually seems to Harbor. See “Boston Calendar of be an act, but it’s so much a part Events” in chapter 2. of the legend that some people are 05_568892 ch01.qxd 6/29/04 12:12 PM Page 5

FROMMER’S FAVORITE BOSTON EXPERIENCES 5

disappointed when the waitresses you can’t say that you’ve never are nice (as they often are). See heard of it—and it would be a p. 116. shame to have to say that you • A Lunch Break with a Water missed your chance to visit it. See View: Head for the harbor or the “The Real Inside Scoop,” later in river, perch on a park bench or a this chapter, and p. 149. patch of grass, put away your • An Afternoon Red Sox Game: watch, relax, and enjoy the spec- Since 1912, baseball fans have tacular scene. Whether it’s sail- made pilgrimages to Fenway Park, boats or ocean liners, seagulls or the “lyric little bandbox of a ball scullers, there’s always something park” (in John Updike’s words) off worth watching. My favorite spot Kenmore Square. The seats are is the end of Long Wharf, not far uncomfortable and expensive, the from Faneuil Hall Marketplace, Red Sox last won the World Series but it’s just one of thousands of in 1918, and you won’t care a whit pleasant spots. See chapter 6. as you soak up the atmosphere • A Ride on a Duck: A Duck Tour, and bask in the sun. See p. 194. that is. Board a reconditioned • A Vicarious Thrill: Without so amphibious World War II landing much as lacing up a sneaker, you craft (on Huntington Ave near the can participate in the world- Prudential Center) for a sightsee- famous Boston Marathon. Stretch ing ride that includes a dip in the a little. Drink plenty of fluids. river—for the Duck, not you. See Stake out a slice of sidewalk p. 184. on Commonwealth Avenue and • A “Ride” Indoors: The Mugar cheer as the runners thunder past. Omni Theater (at the Museum of Then put your feet up—you must Science) and the 3-D Simons be exhausted. See p. 196. IMAX Theatre (at the New Eng- • A Walk Around the North End: land Aquarium) offer intrepid vis- Boston’s Little Italy (but don’t call itors hair-raising experiences in it that!) has an old-world flavor the safety of a comfortable audito- you won’t want to miss. Explore rium. Most of the large-format the shops on Salem Street, wander films concentrate on the natural the narrow side streets, enjoy world. See p. 153 for the Mugar some pasta, and be sure to stop for Omni Theater and p. 155 for the coffee and a pastry at a Hanover Simons IMAX Theatre. Street caffè. See “Welcome to the • A Few Hours (at Least) at the North End” on p. 178. Museum of Fine Arts: Whether • A Spring Fling in the Public you’re into Egyptian art or con- Garden: Eight square blocks of temporary photography, furniture paradise await you, filled with and decorative arts or the Impres- flowers, ornamental greenery, and sionists, you’re sure to find some- flowering trees and shrubs. Pass thing at the MFA that tickles your through for a quick pick-me-up, interest. See p. 151. take to the lagoon for a swan boat • A Trip Back in Time at the Isa- ride, or just enjoy the ducklings. bella Stewart Gardner Museum: They’re on view in the flesh sea- In an extremely unscientific poll sonally and in bronze year-round. conducted by me, this idiosyn- See chapters 7 and 8. cratic museum tied for third- • A Newbury Street Safari: From most-popular thing to do. Now the genteel Arlington Street end to 05_568892 ch01.qxd 6/29/04 12:12 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BOSTON

Tips The Real Inside Scoop

Just for fun, I asked a cross-section of the Boston hospitality community—hotel managers, restaurant owners, attraction publicity managers, merchants, and other travel experts—to tell me their two favorite things to do with out-of-towners who are new to the Boston area. (I asked for two to keep them from just naming their own estab- lishments, but most of them were good sports about sharing the wealth.) I received 160 responses, and I’m thrilled to report that no single activity or place drew more than 13 votes, or just over 8%. To me, that means that Boston is such a multifaceted destination that you can always find something wonderful to see or do. The most popular answer was a Boston Duck Tour. Next came the North End (11 votes); Newbury Street (9); Beacon Hill/Charles Street, Faneuil Hall/Quincy Market, a Red Sox game/Fenway Park, Harvard Square, and a trolley tour (7 each); the Freedom Trail (6); and the Museum of Fine Arts (5). The dark horse was the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which isn’t nearly as well known as most of the other top vote-getters but tied for third place with 9 votes. The experts were gratifyingly miscellaneous—they listed nine muse- ums and attractions, eight neighborhoods, seven restaurants, four walks, four drives, two cemeteries, and an astonishing 42 activities (from the Boston Symphony Orchestra to scorpion bowls—see p. 246) that got one vote each.

the cutting-edge Mass. Ave. end, Wizard of Oz or Tarzan, for exam- Newbury Street—Boston’s leg- ple) on Friday nights in the sum- endary shopping destination—is mer. Bring something to sit on, 8 blocks of pure temptation: gal- and maybe a sweater. See p. 251. leries, boutiques, jewelry and gift • A Concert Alfresco: Summer shops, bookstores, and more. See nights swing to the beat of chapter 9. outdoor music by amateurs and • A Visit to Faneuil Hall Market- professionals. A great spot for free place: Specialty shops, an enor- jazz is Christopher Columbus mous food court, street performers, Park, on the waterfront, where bars, restaurants, and crowds from performances take place Fridays at all over the world make Faneuil 7pm. See p. 242. Hall Marketplace (you’ll also hear • A Concert Indoors: The lights go it called Quincy Market) Boston’s down, the crowd falls silent—you most popular destination. See get a little thrill even if you’re chapter 9. waiting for an Adam Sandler • A Free Friday Flick: Families, movie. If you’re waiting for the film buffs, and impoverished cul- Boston Symphony Orchestra (or ture hounds flock to the lawn in another of the area’s internation- front of the Hatch Shell on the ally renowned ensembles), the Esplanade for free movies (The thrill is as big as the group’s string section. See chapter 10. 05_568892 ch01.qxd 6/29/04 12:12 PM Page 7

BEST HOTEL BETS 7

• An Off-Season Day Trip: Desti- the CLOSED FOR THE SEASON signs nations that abound with out-of- put you off: Under a cloudless sky, towners in the summer and fall against the indigo Atlantic, an all- become more manageable when but-deserted suburban town has a the weather turns cold. Don’t let unique appeal. See chapter 11.

2 Best Hotel Bets • Best Historic Hotel: The Fair- the peace in the back of the mini- mont Copley Plaza, 138 St. van. See p. 94. James Ave. (& 800/257-7544; • Best for Travelers with Disabili- www.fairmont.com/copleyplaza), ties: The Royal Sonesta Hotel, 5 opened in 1912 on the original Cambridge Pkwy., Cambridge site of the Museum of Fine Arts. (& 800/SONESTA; www.sonesta. Designed by Henry Janeway com/boston), trains its staff in dis- Hardenbergh (also the architect of ability awareness and offers 18 the Plaza in New York), it has rooms (some of which adjoin entertained presidents and celebri- standard units) equipped for the ties since the day its magnificent hearing, ambulatory, and vision gilded lobby opened. See p. 87. impaired. A wheelchair ramp for • Best for Business Travelers: The use in conference rooms is avail- Boston Harbor Hotel, Rowes able. See p. 97. Across the river, 48 Wharf (& 800/752-7077; www. fully accessible rooms at The bhh.com), is just far enough from Westin Copley Place Boston, the Financial District (across the 10 Huntington Ave. (& 800/ street) to buy you some peace at WESTIN-1; www.westin.com/ the end of a busy day. And its copleyplace), adjoin standard rooms are so well outfitted that units. See p. 91. you may not have to go out at all. • Best Value: The Newbury Guest See p. 74. House, 261 Newbury St. (& 800/ • Best for a Romantic Getaway: 437-7668; www.newburyguest The intimate atmosphere and ele- house.com), would be a good deal gant furnishings make a suite at even if it weren’t ideally located in the Eliot Hotel, 370 Common- the heart of the Back Bay. Room wealth Ave. (& 800/44-ELIOT; prices even include continental www.eliothotel.com), a great spot breakfast. See p. 92. for a rendezvous. If you and your • Best Value for Motorists: Room beloved need some time apart, rates at The MidTown Hotel, close the French doors—you can 220 Huntington Ave. (& 800/ be in separate rooms yet still 343-1177; www.midtownhotel. maintain eye contact. See p. 87. com), include parking for one • Best for Families: The Double- car—a savings of as much as $35 tree Guest Suites, 400 Soldiers per day—in a handy location. See Field Rd. (& 800/222-TREE; p. 91. www.doubletree.com), offer two • Best Lobby for Pretending That rooms for the price of one, with You’re Rich: The Edwardian two TVs and a refrigerator, and a wonderland that is the street level nice pool. The location, straddling of The Fairmont Copley Plaza Boston and Cambridge, is espe- Hotel (see the earlier entry “Best cially good if you’re driving from Historic Hotel”), is the perfect the west—you leave the turnpike place for indulging your upper- before downtown traffic shatters crust fantasies. See p. 87. 05_568892 ch01.qxd 6/29/04 12:12 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BOSTON

• Best for Serious Runners: Brush • Best Pool: The Sheraton Boston up on your visualization tech- Hotel, 39 Dalton St. (& 800/ niques before checking into the 325-3535; www.sheraton.com/ Charlesmark Hotel, 655 Boyl- boston), has a great indoor-out- ston St. (& 617/247-1212; www. door pool with a retractable dome. thecharlesmark.com), which See p. 90. overlooks the Boston Marathon • Best Views: Several hotels offer finish line. See p. 91. impressive views of their immedi- • Best Service: Hands down, the ate surroundings, but for a picture- Four Seasons Hotel, 200 Boyl- postcard panorama of Boston and ston St. (& 800/819-5053; www. Cambridge, head to the upper fourseasons.com). The chain’s stan- floors of The Westin Copley Place dards are sky-high, and the friendly Boston (see the earlier entry “Best and efficient staff here meets and for Travelers with Disabilities”). exceeds them. See p. 84. See p. 91.

3 Best Dining Bets • Best, Period: If you have only one 14 Milk St. (& 617/426-7565), meal during your visit, make it or 133 Federal St. (& 617/292- dinner at Mediterranean Rialto, 2674). See p 117. in the Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett • Best Spot for a Celebration: St., Cambridge (& 617/661- Cool your heels at the bar at Dalí, 5050; www.rialto-restaurant.com). 415 Washington St., Somerville See p. 133. (& 617/661-3254; www.dali • Best Seafood: Legal Sea Foods, restaurant.com), and toast your 800 Boylston St., in the Pruden- good news with sangria while you tial Center (& 617/266-6800; wait for a table. (Finally, a restau- www.legalseafoods.com), and rant that makes you glad it doesn’t other locations, does one thing take reservations.) The dishes on and does it exceptionally well. It’s the tapas menu are perfect for a chain for a great reason: People sharing, and the atmosphere is can’t get enough of the freshest lively and festive. See p. 139. seafood around. See p. 129. • Best Decor: The luxurious ban- • Best Spot for Romance: Soaring quettes, gorgeous paintings and ceilings, colorful decor, and (sea- flowers, and picture windows sonally) a roaring fire make the overlooking the Public Garden atmosphere in the Monday Club make Aujourd’hui, in the Four Bar at Upstairs on the Square, Seasons Hotel, 200 Boylston St. 91 Winthrop St., Cambridge (& 617/351-2037), feel like an (& 617/864-1933; www.up extremely elegant treehouse. See stairsonthesquare.com), perfect p. 125. for a rendezvous. See p. 136. • Best Wine List: Organized by • Best Spot for a Business Lunch: characteristics (from light to Plenty of deals go down at private rich) rather than by vintage or clubs and formal restaurants, but provenance, the excellent offerings that can take hours. Leave an at The Blue Room, 1 Kendall impression with your no-nonsense Sq., Cambridge (& 617/494- approach and a quick but deli- 9034; www.theblueroom.net), are cious meal at Cosí Sandwich Bar, arranged in the most user-friendly 53 State St. (& 617/723-4447), way imaginable. See p. 138. 05_568892 ch01.qxd 6/29/04 12:12 PM Page 9

BEST DINING BETS 9

• Best Service: The waitstaff at Tro- waitresses. It’s a classic, not a relic. quet, 140 Boylston St. (& 617/ See p. 116. 695-9463), answers more ques- • Best American Cuisine: It’s not tions than the parents of a toddler. quite “cuisine,” but what’s more Your server will graciously walk American than a burger? Mr. you through the wine-oriented Bartley’s Burger Cottage, 1246 menu or graciously leave you to Mass. Ave. (& 617/354-6559; your own devices. See p. 120. www.mrbartleys.com), is famous • Best Value: At the Midwest Grill, for its burgers, its onion rings, and 1124 Cambridge St., Cambridge a down-to-earth atmosphere that’s (& 617/354-7536), the hits just increasingly rare in Harvard keep on coming. The sword- Square. See p. 138. wielding waiters bring succulent • Best French Cuisine: Sel de la grilled meats until you ask (or Terre, 255 State St. (& 617/720- beg) them to stop. Arrive hungry 1300; www.seldelaterre.com). and you’ll definitely get your Technically, it’s Provençal. Not so money’s worth. See p. 141. technically, it’s delicious. Fresh • Best for Kids: The wood-fired New England ingredients go into brick ovens of the Bertucci’s the thoroughly French end prod- chain are magnets for little eyes, uct. Try as many different breads and the pizza that comes out of as you can without ruining your them is equally enthralling. Picky meal. See p. 109. parents will be happy here, too. • Best Bistro: A friend who knows Try the locations at Faneuil Hall both Paris and Boston swears by Marketplace (& 617/227-7889); Les Zygomates, 129 South St. 43 Stanhope St., Back Bay (& 617/542-5108; www.wine (& 617/247-6161); 533 Com- bar.com), where you can enjoy monwealth Ave., Kenmore Square the flavor of the Left Bank in a (& 617/236-1030); 21 Brattle congenial American setting. See St., Harvard Square, Cambridge p. 116. (& 617/864-4748); and 799 • Best Italian Cuisine: By far the Main St., Cambridge (& 617/ best restaurant in the North End, 661-8356). See p. 128. Mamma Maria, 3 North Sq. • Best Raw Bar: After just a few (& 617/523-0077), is one of the minutes of gobbling fresh seafood best in town. In a lovely setting, it and being hypnotized by the offers remarkable regional Italian shuckers at Ye Olde Union Oys- fare in a spaghetti-and-meatballs ter House, 41 Union St. (& 617/ neighborhood. See p. 109. 227-2750; www.unionoyster • Best Pizza: Considering how well house.com), you might feel sorry pizza travels, it’s surprising that for the people who wound up the branches of Pizzeria Regina with the pearls instead of the oys- can’t seem to get it quite right. For ters. See p. 116. the real thing, head to the North 1 • Best Place for a Classic Boston End original, at 11 ⁄2 Thacher St. Experience: Durgin-Park, 340 (& 617/227-0765; www.pizzeria Faneuil Hall Marketplace (& 617/ regina.com). See p. 115. 227-2038; www.durgin-park. • Best Investment (of Time & com), has packed ’em in since Money): Dinner at L’Espalier, 30 1827. From tycoon to out-of- Gloucester St. (& 617/262-3023; towner, everyone is happy here www.lespalier.com), is an event. except the famously crotchety 05_568892 ch01.qxd 6/29/04 12:12 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BOSTON

For your event, whatever the compromises. If you’re looking for occasion, the grand cuisine and a delicious meal that won’t destroy solicitous service will make it your budget and waistline, join unforgettable. See p. 126. the throng at the S&S Restau- • Best Outdoor Dining: Oleana, rant, 1334 Cambridge St., Cam- 134 Hampshire St., Cambridge bridge (& 617/354-0777; www. (& 617/661-0505; www.oleana sandsrestaurant.com). See p. 142. restaurant.com), offers a fantastic • Best for Pretheater Dinner: combination of food and setting. Snappy service is the rule all over The superb Mediterranean cuisine Chinatown. Start your evening at makes a good match for the peace- Grand Chau Chow, 45 Beach St. ful patio. See p. 140. (& 617/292-5166), and you’ll • Best Brunch: The insane dis- be both prompt and well fed plays at many top hotels are well when you arrive at the theater. worth the monetary and caloric See p. 121.