THETHTHEE BOSTONBOBOSTOS NGLOBE GLOBE | JANUARY 14, 2018 CELEBRATING THE GOVERNMENT MOST NOTEWORTHY BY THE RICH, FOR THE RICH DEBUTS OF 2017: HOWTOMAKE 113 RESTAURANTS, PERFECT BEEF THINGS TO DO, SHOPS, STEW PEOPLE, IDEAS, DAD’S SHINING AND MORE. EXAMPLE BY DIANE BAIR KARA BASKIN KAREN CAMPBELL CATHLEEN CUSACHS DEVRA FIRST MICHAEL FITZGERALD JON GOREY PATRICIA HARRIS SHERYL JULIAN MARNI ELYSE KATZ SHIRLEY LEUNG DAVID LYON MEAGHAN MCDONOUGH DAN MORRELL JANELLE NANOS RACHEL RACZKA SHIRA SPRINGER 46 DINING DESTINATIONS,19 FUN THINGS TO DO,19 FRESH FACES JAMES SULLIVAN TINA SUTTON AND BIG IDEAS,AND 29 STYLISH SHOPS AND MUST-TRY SERVICES PAMELA WRIGHT 16 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE Burro Bar This Washington Square newcomer is the little sibling to Somerville’s Painted Burro, a wee Mexican restaurant bursting with bright colors and flavors. Nachos, queso fun- dido, and more get modernized—think roasted beets with tomatillo vinaigrette and goat cheese croquetas, crispy coconut cod tacos, and pork enchila- das with red wine Bess’s Cafe and cola mole. The whole neighborhood piles in to sample all manner of margari- tas and an intriguing tequila selection, and the night be- Bencotto you in and out quickly. Big plus: comes a party. You’re listening to Frank Sinatra You can reserve. 1665 Beacon Street, Brookline, or greatest hits from your favor- 617-277-0427, burrobarbrook- ite operas, dining on marble- 361 Hanover Street, Boston, 617-523- line.com topped tables with windows 0050, bencottoboston.com that open onto Hanover Street. Bennett’s Sandwich Waiters come around with big Shop hunks of Parmesan to grate onto Vacationland denizens swear drawn butter. Service is fast and (dan dan noodles, pork belly Bistro Duet your pasta, which is served in by the enormous lobster rolls friendly. noodle soup), scallion-pancake For years, locals clinked glasses huge portions. It’s everything you and steak-and-cheese subs at wraps filled with beef, and crispy at Flora, a mainstay in the want in a North End restaurant. Bennett’s, a seasonal pit stop 84 Peterborough Street, Boston, 857- chicken buns. But its specialty majestic Arlington Five Cents Bencotto is Italian for “well minutes from the Kennebunk 239-9736, bennetts-store.com is handmade dumplings, tooth- Savings Bank building. It’s cooked,” which the pizzas mostly beaches. Now the beloved Bess’s Cafe some, carefully pleated wrappers now home to the lovely Bistro are. The menu is pitch-perfect sandwich slinger has a year- The urge to eat dumplings is filled with shrimp, pork and Duet—a warm, stately French Italian-American: shrimp scampi round Boston branch. This is strong. But a trip to Chinatown chive, and more. In wonton soup, restaurant with live music, with linguine, grilled sausages happy news for folks looking isn’t always in the cards. How they’re a surefire way to fight the chatty service, and solid rendi- with roasted peppers, fried cala- for a down-home break from nice, then, to have Bess’s Cafe in wintry cold. tions of classics like coq au vin mari with hot cherry peppers. the Fenway’s glitzier options. Brookline. Named for operator and moules frites. Niceties like a Your relatives visiting from out of No frills here, just meaty lobster Bess Lee, the tiny restaurant 224 Cypress Street, Brookline, 617-879- “dinner and show” package with 0993, besscafe.com PHOTOGRAPHS: BURRO BAR BY SUZANNEBESS’S KREITER/GLOBE CAFE STAFF/FILE; BY JOHN BLANDING/GLOBE STAFF/FILE town will love it. The staff gets swirled with traces of mayo and turns out homey noodle dishes the nearby Regent Theatre and a JANUARY 14, 2018 17 three-course, $28 early prix-fixe menu make this a good bet for a neighborly, welcoming evening out in an area short on special- occasion destinations. 190 Massachusetts Avenue, Arlington, Citrus & Salt 781-316-8808, bistroduet.com Buttermilk & Bourbon We’ve watched chef Jason Santos’s career evolve, from Gargoyles on the Square to Blue Inc. to Abby Lane to Citrus & Salt Citrus & Salt (see box at right). With New smashing cocktails and a well- cultivarboston.com Orleans-influenced Buttermilk assembled wine list. Cunard Tavern Beverly Hills meets the Back Bay in this loud & Bourbon, the former Hell’s Posh condos. Waterfront restau- coral-and-gold room presided over by madcap Kitchen contestant seems to 233 Cardinal Medeiros Avenue, Cam- rants. East Boston is gentrifying have entered a new phase—one bridge, 617-314-7297, cafedupays.com fast, and Cunard Tavern is a chef Jason Santos. With Buttermilk & Bourbon where he’s ready to have some symbol of the new Eastie. Tots (see entry at left), Santos took on New Orleans. fun. The menu encompasses in strollers, college pals cram- Here he tackles coastal Mexican cuisine with honey-glazed biscuits, crawfish ming the bar, suited dudes with surprise touches, like blowfish tails and almond and lump crab soup with suitcases grabbing beers before absinthe, BBQ shrimp, and fried heading off to Logan—they jam or crab tostadas showered with fried leeks. chicken. Drink cocktails by black crowd this people-pleasing Jef- Bracing cocktails are just as wacky—Take Your light in the Voodoo Lounge and fries Point pub for wings, steak Pants Off, Tears & Tequila—and best consumed let the good times roll. frites, and pan-seared scallops. The service is fast, the food is in the low-lit Garden of Santeria in the back, with 160 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, reliable, and in warm weather, backlit murals and spongy sofas. Bachelorette 617-266-1122, buttermilkbourbon.com the windows open to the street; gaggles and boozy thirtysomething birthday Cafe du Pays the water’s just a few blocks We dream of long weekends in away. In with the new. revelers, you have found your new oasis. Montreal—so close—and yet Cultivar 142 Berkeley Street, Boston, 833-324-8787, citrusandsaltboston.com our local restaurants neglect the Chef Mary Dumont, formerly of 24 Orleans Street, East Boston, 617- rich fare of Quebec. No more. Harvest, branches out with her 567-7609, cunardtavern.com The team behind State Park and own restaurant in the Ames Bos- Eventide Fenway Mamaleh’s quietly opened this ton Hotel. She’s brought a deep The beloved Portland oyster outlets. If the gorgeous work/ cozy restaurant in the Kendall bench of local purveyors with institution has come to Boston, 1321 Boylston Street, Boston, 617-545- study space and La Colombe Square space where it once ran her; the restaurant, adjacent to and the city rejoices. All the 1060, eventideoysterco.com coffee aren’t enough of a draw, Hungry Mother. It’s a worthy City Hall, also has a hydroponic favorites are at your fingertips, Explorateur check out the French fare, such French-Canadian successor to garden. The resulting seasonal from sparkling-fresh bivalves to On the first floor of a historic as moules marinieres, steak that French-Southern hybrid, cuisine draws on a regional ar- tuna crudo to the cult-following- Masonic lodge across the street frites, and roast chicken for two. showcasing ingredients and ray—sweet potatoes, chestnuts, worthy brown-butter lobster roll from Boston Common, the latest dishes from maple syrup to and venison are among the in- on a steamed bao-style bun. effort from Big Night Entertain- 186 Tremont Street, Boston, 617-466- pork pate (cretons) to the meat gredients taking center stage at And those who don’t do seafood ment Group (Red Lantern, 6600, explorateur.com pie tourtiere, with pork and the moment. Handmade pastas aren’t left in the lurch: The Gem) is the day-into-night Field & Vine venison. Yes, of course there’s are a highlight, along with a fun burger is like a Big Mac for food cafe-restaurant this part of town In the Union Square space poutine—but the real reason bar menu. A roster of ambitious snobs. Eventide Fenway takes needed. Beautifully decorated that used to be Journeyman, to visit is for showstoppers like desserts rounds out the meal. fast-casual form, which makes it and spacious, Explorateur keeps and in many ways its spiritual the perfectly cooked half duck particularly well suited for game- hours as commodious as its free successor, Field & Vine is run by 1 Court Street, Boston, 617-979-8203, CONTINUED ON PAGE 20 with sunchoke puree, along with day visits. Wi-Fi and communal tables with PHOTOGRAPHS: CITRUS & SALT BY ARAM BOGHOSIAN ; CULTIVAR BY JOSH REYNOLDS 18 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE traditional accompaniments, craveable pasta dishes (cocoa pappardelle with wild boar ragout; spaghetti with lobster, uni, ham, and cured egg), and venison osso buco, while pastry chef Brian Mercury straddles the line between homey and experimental with the likes of buttermilk date cake with rooibos, labneh, and long pep- per meringue. 321 A Street, South Boston, 857-284- 7742, oakandrowan.com The Smoke Shop BBQ Pit master Andy Husbands has expanded his Kendall Square barbecue parlor to Fort Point’s The Smoke Shop BBQ old Tavern Road space with great success. Southern rock on the speakers, stiff whiskey at the bar, tender ribs and brisket, and pimento mac and cheese that would make your physician weep with horror New restaurants seem to arrive daily in the Seaport and Fort Point. Goodbye, Anthony’s Pier 4; (or envy). Husbands brings an hello, high-end dining. If you find yourself in the area, trust these places to feed you right. authentic, affordable splash of smoky spice to an area rife Better Bagels with big-ticket dining rooms and fast-casual chains. Try the There should be a word for the Better Bagels smooth, creamy sweet potato unique form of happiness that mash: It’s almost as good as results when a favorite food, ice cream.