THETHTHEE BOB BOSTONOSTOS NGLOBE GLOBE | JANUARY 14, 2018

CELEBRATING THE GOVERNMENT MOST NOTEWORTHY BY THE RICH, FOR THE RICH DEBUTS OF 2017: HOWTOMAKE 113 , PERFECT BEEF THINGS TO DO, SHOPS, PEOPLE, IDEAS, DAD’S SHINING AND MORE. EXAMPLE BY DIANE BAIR KARA BASKIN KAREN CAMPBELL CATHLEEN CUSACHS DEVRA FIRST MICHAEL FITZGERALD JON GOREY PATRICIA HARRIS SHERYL JULIAN MARNI ELYSE KATZ SHIRLEY LEUNG DAVID LYON MEAGHAN MCDONOUGH DAN MORRELL JANELLE NANOS RACHEL RACZKA SHIRA SPRINGER 46 DINING DESTINATIONS,19 FUN THINGS TO DO,19 FRESH FACES JAMES SULLIVAN TINA SUTTON AND BIG IDEAS,AND 29 STYLISH SHOPS AND MUST-TRY SERVICES PAMELA WRIGHT

16 THE GLOBE MAGAZINE Burro Bar This Washington Square newcomer is the little sibling to Somerville’s Painted Burro, a wee Mexican bursting with bright colors and flavors. Nachos, queso fun- dido, and more get modernized—think roasted beets with tomatillo vinaigrette and goat cheese croquetas, crispy coconut cod tacos, and pork enchila- das with red wine

Bess’s Cafe and cola mole. The whole neighborhood piles in to sample all manner of margari- tas and an intriguing tequila selection, and the night be- Bencotto you in and out quickly. Big plus: comes a party. You’re listening to Frank Sinatra You can reserve. 1665 Beacon Street, Brookline, or greatest hits from your favor- 617-277-0427, burrobarbrook- ite operas, dining on marble- 361 Hanover Street, Boston, 617-523- line.com topped tables with windows 0050, bencottoboston.com that open onto Hanover Street. Bennett’s Sandwich Waiters come around with big Shop hunks of Parmesan to grate onto Vacationland denizens swear drawn butter. Service is fast and (dan dan noodles, pork belly Bistro Duet your pasta, which is served in by the enormous rolls friendly. noodle ), scallion-pancake For years, locals clinked glasses huge portions. It’s everything you and steak-and-cheese subs at wraps filled with beef, and crispy at Flora, a mainstay in the want in a North End restaurant. Bennett’s, a seasonal pit stop 84 Peterborough Street, Boston, 857- chicken buns. But its specialty majestic Arlington Five Cents Bencotto is Italian for “well minutes from the Kennebunk 239-9736, bennetts-store.com is handmade dumplings, tooth- Savings Bank building. It’s cooked,” which the pizzas mostly beaches. Now the beloved Bess’s Cafe some, carefully pleated wrappers now home to the lovely Bistro are. The menu is pitch-perfect sandwich slinger has a year- The urge to eat dumplings is filled with , pork and Duet—a warm, stately French Italian-American: shrimp scampi round Boston branch. This is strong. But a trip to Chinatown chive, and more. In wonton soup, restaurant with live music, with linguine, grilled sausages happy news for folks looking isn’t always in the cards. How they’re a surefire way to fight the chatty service, and solid rendi- with roasted peppers, fried cala- for a down-home break from nice, then, to have Bess’s Cafe in wintry cold. tions of classics like coq au vin mari with hot cherry peppers. the Fenway’s glitzier options. Brookline. Named for operator and moules frites. Niceties like a Your relatives visiting from out of No frills here, just meaty lobster Bess Lee, the tiny restaurant 224 Cypress Street, Brookline, 617-879- “dinner and show” package with 0993, besscafe.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: BURRO BAR BY SUZANNEBESS’S KREITER/GLOBE CAFE STAFF/FILE; BY JOHN BLANDING/GLOBE STAFF/FILE town will love it. The staff gets swirled with traces of mayo and turns out homey noodle dishes the nearby Regent Theatre and a

JANUARY 14, 2018 17 three-, $28 early prix-fixe menu make this a good bet for a neighborly, welcoming evening out in an area short on special- occasion destinations.

190 Avenue, Arlington, Citrus & Salt 781-316-8808, bistroduet.com Buttermilk & Bourbon We’ve watched chef Jason Santos’s career evolve, from Gargoyles on the Square to Blue Inc. to Abby Lane to Citrus & Salt Citrus & Salt (see box at right). With New smashing cocktails and a well- cultivarboston.com Orleans-influenced Buttermilk assembled wine list. Cunard Tavern Beverly Hills meets the Back Bay in this loud & Bourbon, the former Hell’s Posh condos. Waterfront restau- coral-and-gold room presided over by madcap Kitchen contestant seems to 233 Cardinal Medeiros Avenue, Cam- rants. East Boston is gentrifying have entered a new phase—one bridge, 617-314-7297, cafedupays.com fast, and Cunard Tavern is a chef Jason Santos. With Buttermilk & Bourbon where he’s ready to have some symbol of the new Eastie. Tots (see entry at left), Santos took on . fun. The menu encompasses in strollers, college pals cram- Here he tackles coastal Mexican cuisine with honey-glazed biscuits, crawfish ming the bar, suited dudes with surprise touches, like blowfish tails and almond and lump crab soup with suitcases grabbing beers before absinthe, BBQ shrimp, and fried heading off to Logan—they jam or crab tostadas showered with fried leeks. chicken. cocktails by black crowd this people-pleasing Jef- Bracing cocktails are just as wacky—Take Your light in the Voodoo Lounge and fries Point pub for wings, steak Pants Off, Tears & Tequila—and best consumed let the good times roll. frites, and pan-seared scallops. The service is fast, the food is in the low-lit Garden of Santeria in the back, with 160 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, reliable, and in warm weather, backlit murals and spongy sofas. Bachelorette 617-266-1122, buttermilkbourbon.com the windows open to the street; gaggles and boozy thirtysomething birthday Cafe du Pays the water’s just a few blocks We dream of long weekends in away. In with the new. revelers, you have found your new oasis. Montreal—so close—and yet Cultivar 142 Berkeley Street, Boston, 833-324-8787, citrusandsaltboston.com our local restaurants neglect the Chef Mary Dumont, formerly of 24 Orleans Street, East Boston, 617- rich fare of Quebec. No more. Harvest, branches out with her 567-7609, cunardtavern.com The team behind State Park and own restaurant in the Ames Bos- Eventide Fenway Mamaleh’s quietly opened this ton Hotel. She’s brought a deep The beloved Portland oyster outlets. If the gorgeous work/ cozy restaurant in the Kendall bench of local purveyors with institution has come to Boston, 1321 Boylston Street, Boston, 617-545- study space and La Colombe Square space where it once ran her; the restaurant, adjacent to and the city rejoices. All the 1060, eventideoysterco.com coffee aren’t enough of a draw, Hungry Mother. It’s a worthy City Hall, also has a hydroponic favorites are at your fingertips, Explorateur check out the French fare, such French-Canadian successor to garden. The resulting seasonal from sparkling-fresh bivalves to On the first floor of a historic as moules marinieres, steak that French-Southern hybrid, cuisine draws on a regional ar- tuna crudo to the cult-following- Masonic lodge across the street frites, and roast chicken for two. showcasing ingredients and ray—sweet potatoes, chestnuts, worthy brown-butter lobster roll from Boston Common, the latest dishes from maple syrup to and venison are among the in- on a steamed bao-style bun. effort from Big Night Entertain- 186 Tremont Street, Boston, 617-466- pork pate (cretons) to the meat gredients taking center stage at And those who don’t do ment Group (Red Lantern, 6600, explorateur.com pie tourtiere, with pork and the moment. Handmade pastas aren’t left in the lurch: The Gem) is the day-into-night Field & Vine venison. Yes, of course there’s are a highlight, along with a fun burger is like a Big Mac for food cafe-restaurant this part of town In the Union Square space poutine—but the real reason bar menu. A roster of ambitious snobs. Eventide Fenway takes needed. Beautifully decorated that used to be Journeyman, to visit is for showstoppers like rounds out the meal. fast-casual form, which makes it and spacious, Explorateur keeps and in many ways its spiritual the perfectly cooked half duck particularly well suited for game- hours as commodious as its free successor, Field & Vine is run by 1 Court Street, Boston, 617-979-8203, CONTINUED ON PAGE 20 with sunchoke puree, along with day visits. Wi-Fi and communal tables with PHOTOGRAPHS: CITRUS & SALT BY ARAM BOGHOSIAN ; CULTIVAR BY JOSH REYNOLDS

18 MAGAZINE traditional accompaniments, craveable pasta dishes (cocoa pappardelle with wild boar ragout; spaghetti with lobster, uni, ham, and cured egg), and venison osso buco, while chef Brian Mercury straddles the line between homey and experimental with the likes of buttermilk date with rooibos, labneh, and long pep- per meringue. 321 A Street, , 857-284- 7742, oakandrowan.com The Smoke Shop BBQ Pit master Andy Husbands has expanded his Kendall Square barbecue parlor to Fort Point’s The Smoke Shop BBQ old Tavern Road space with great success. Southern rock on the speakers, stiff whiskey at the bar, tender ribs and brisket, and pimento mac and cheese that would make your physician weep with horror New restaurants seem to arrive daily in the Seaport and Fort Point. Goodbye, Anthony’s Pier 4; (or envy). Husbands brings an hello, high-end dining. If you find yourself in the area, trust these places to feed you right. authentic, affordable splash of smoky spice to an area rife Better Bagels with big-ticket dining rooms and fast-casual chains. Try the There should be a word for the Better Bagels smooth, creamy sweet potato unique form of happiness that mash: It’s almost as good as results when a favorite food, ice cream. previously available largely through pop-ups, gets a brick- 343 Congress Street, Boston, 617- and-mortar location. That’s 261-7427, thesmokeshopbbq.com what happened with Better Tuscan Kitchen Bagels, bringing New York-ish Seaport salt, everything, and cinnamon It’s huge (14,000 square raisin to the Seaport. They feet). It’s open for lunch and come with cream cheese and dinner. It has a crowd-pleasing lox as well as in sandwich form, Italian menu, classy neutral from the classic egg and cheese decor, a fireplace, and a gelato to smoked turkey with chipotle bar. It’s quiet enough for an mayo and hummus with veg- Tuscan Kitchen actual conversation over hand- gies. Breakfast and lunch just stretched mozzarella, rigatoni got better for those who live alla Bolognese, and pollo al and work in the area. mattone. Restaurateur Joe 83A Seaport Boulevard, Boston, no into a massive shellfish tower, bathroom attendant (yes, Oak+Rowan Faro’s Tuscan Kitchen—with phone, betterbagelsboston.com wrap your manicured mitts there’s a bathroom attendant) Amiable Oak + Rowan, in branches in Burlington and New Mastro’s Ocean Club around an ice-cold martini, and to the sticker-shock prices. Fort Point, feels like a friendly Hampshire—instantly upped Glitz, glamour, big hair, big listen to some live music while Toast your good fortune and neighborhood restaurant everyone’s game in the battle jewels, big spending—it’s 1986 wooing your date, hustling a enjoy the harbor view. with a menu that aims for the for Seaport business lunches all over again at the Seaport and post-work gatherings. client, or celebrating that big 25 Fan Pier Boulevard, Boston, heights. Chef Justin Shoults location of this outsized bonus. Mastro’s is unabashedly 617-530-1925, mastrosrestaurants. serves beautifully composed 64 Seaport Boulevard, Boston, 617-

PHOTOGRAPHS: SMOKE SHOP BY BARRY CHIN/ GLOBE STAFF/FILE; TUSCAN KITCHEN BY JOSH REYNOLDS; BETTER BAGELS BY DINA RUDICK/GLOBE STAFF steak-and-seafood chain. Tuck swanky, from the caviar to the com cheese plates, caviar with 303-7300, tuscanbrands.com

JANUARY 14, 2018 19 CONTINUED FROM PAGE18 chef Andrew Brady and Sara Markey, partners in work and life; the food is seasonal, sustain- able, and ingredient-driven. In a space that looks the creation of a woodland elf turned celebrity chef—branches festooned with twinkling lights, hanging bunches of herbs and garlic, an open kitchen—Brady turns out Noca Provisions hakurei turnips with ham and This North Cambridge cafe seems straight out cranberries, fried smelts in spicy tomato sauce, sausage with of a Goop ad: tranquil blue walls, long benches, heirloom beans and charred moms with babies strapped to their chests sip- cabbage, and more. ping espresso fizzes, a mellow soul soundtrack.

9 Sanborn Court, Somerville, 617-718- The coffee is strong, but thanks to owner Robert pork belly washed down with 2333, fieldandvinesomerville.com pig in advance. Chef Giovanna Harris— the mastermind behind nearby Season creamsoda,ortakealoafof Frenchie Huyke has been referred to as to Taste — the food is even better. Indulge with pate or a carton of sauerkraut At this bistro that makes the “the of Puerto Rico.” A exceptional popovers or house-made bread to go. Lines get long at midday, South End feel like France, the night here spirits you away from but staffers circle the frenzied wine flows as readily as the Central Square to somewhere (get yours draped with cold-smoked salmon or waiting area with trays of thinly neighborly hospitality. It comes balmy and relaxed. caramelized peaches), egg dishes like a trout sliced meats for snacking—a from Sandrine Rossi, whose fami- and sorrel omelet, and a thoughtful dinner menu civilized touch. ly owns a winery in Bordeaux, and 450 Massachusetts Avenue, Cam- Loic Le Garrec, who presided over bridge, 857-706-1125, lafabricacentral. spotlighting pumpkin ravioli and pork sausage 500 Boylston Street, Boston, 617-405- the Petit Robert restaurants for com with maple mole. The whole place feels like a 5320, moodysboston.com years. The menu hits touchstones Les Sablons warm designer hug. Mooncusser Fish House such as onion soup, , coq This Harvard Square winner Seafood-focused restaurants au vin, and steak frites, along with comes from the team that oper- 156 Rindge Avenue, Cambridge, 617-902-0764, nocaprovisions.com have swept the city, and now this shishito peppers, kale salad, and ates Eastern Standard and Island corner on the edge of the Back other pleasant diversions. Open Creek Oyster Bar, and it feels like Bay has one too. Mooncusser from late morning to late evening, a cross between the two. Making childhood such as poke and the showcases the talents of chef Frenchie is a new reliable. the most of chef Jeremy Sewall’s Cambridge, 617-268-6800, lscam- burger-on- dish loco moco). Carolyn Johnson (80 Thoreau) in connections with the local fishing bridge.com Meanwhile, Connolly’s behind an upstairs-downstairs scenario. 560 Tremont Street, Boston, 857-233- community, French-influenced Momi Nonmi the bar, pouring and dropping On the ground floor is Moon 5941, frenchieboston.com Les Sablons documents the The closest Cambridge—spe- knowledge about sake and Bar, which serves lobster rolls, La Fabrica Central changing of the seasons in cifically, Inman Square—gets Japanese whiskey. Just about smoked bluefish fattoush, and Baby, it’s warm inside. This preparations such as baked to Tokyo’s tiny watering holes, everything on the menu also other casual dishes. The upstairs nightclub and restaurant oysters with smoked uni butter, Momi Nonmi is what happens happens to be gluten-free. space offers city views and up- from the owners of Merengue chicken consomme with when an accomplished chef scale fare, from turnip soup with and Vejigantes offers live jazz tortellini, and veal boudin blanc (Chris Chung, formerly of Uni and 1128 Cambridge Street, Cambridge, poached oysters and pear cream and Caribbean food—from with potato puree and roasted AKA Bistro) and a sake expert 617-945-7328, mominonmi.com to stuffed skate with lobster and empanadas filled with goat apple. As elegant and appealing (Stephen Connolly, who also Moody’s Delicatessen chard, along with a tasting menu cheese and tomato marmalade as the food is, what really makes worked at Uni) join forces to cre- Urban carnivores pack this Back of local fish. to seafood-and-rice soup to an the restaurant memorable is the ate an izakaya, or Japanese-style Bay meat emporium, a spinoff impressive fried whole red snap- crack hospitality. gastropub. The menu draws on of the Waltham original, known 304 Stuart Street, Boston, 617-917- per with tomato-coconut sauce. Chung’s sashimi acumen, along for charcuterie and sandwiches. 5193, mooncusserfishhouse.com and 2 Bennett Street, Harvard Square, moonbarboston.com

For a feast, order a whole roast with dishes from his Hawaiian Enjoy husky stacks of salami or PHOTOGRAPHS: NOCA PROVISIONS BY LANE TURNER/GLOBE STAFF/FILE

20 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE In the Boston area, 2017 was the year of poke—Hawaiian raw fish salad served in bowls and sometimes wrapped up burrito-style. These establishments will get you hooked.

Legal Fish Bowl was late to the bowl concept—you know, choose a grain from this column, protein from the next column, then add-ons, dressing, and more—but as with all things, the chain does it well. Not exciting, but dependable and consistent, with every bit of seafood beautifully cooked and a well-trained staff on the cafeteria-style line, Legal Fish Bowl is adjacent to the Kendall Square Legal’s. With floor-to-ceiling windows that make it feel like a real fishbowl, it’s no place for an off-the-record conversation. The “signature bowls” have some too-cute names, such as Pick Your Hoisin—glazed ReelHouse salmon with charred broccoli (the vegetable of the moment), You’ll feel as though you’re aboard an ocean liner in this expansive harborside zucchini noodles, avocado, and Dijon dressing. Sometimes you retreat, tucked into a swanky East Boston luxury tower, with an opening made don’t need excitement. buzzier by the presence of former Pigalle chef Marc Orfaly. Old salts, young sprites, 355 Main Street, Cambridge, 617-712-1975, legalseafoods.com and everyone in between settle onto captain’s chairs to hoist wine glasses, nibble oysters and grilled calamari, and take in the delicious patio view. On a warm sum- Manoa Poke Shop Stand-alone poke shops and mer’s night, with a sunset the color of white wine, there’s no nicer place to be. mini-chains have popped up 6 New Street, East Boston, 617-895-4075, reelhouseboston.com from the Back Bay to Davis Square, squeaky-clean and ultramodern, luring crowds North Square Oyster are behind Our Fathers, which espanola, squid ink oyster bao, eager for something more There may be no more charming specializes in hand-cut pastrami and fried rice at night. Perhaps than sandwiches. Manoa, corner of the city in which to and corned beef, piled onto rye best of all, you can finally get on the Somerville-Cam- demolish an assortment of local with mustard, pickle on the side. the excellent Guchi’s ramen at a bridge line, is a little different. oysters, with assorted sauces The restaurant menu also offers more noodle-friendly hour than Hidden on a tired block with a or in gorgeous little landscapes dishes that unite Jewish, Israeli, midnight. Clever cocktails round serious lack of foot traffic, it feels composed on the half shell: with and modern American cuisine. out the picture. (As for the name, like a spot you’d tumble into after quail yolk, litchee pearls, and Along with matzo ball soup and it means “pug” in Japanese.) a long day in the island surf. Honolulu Chartreuse jelly; watermelon potato pancakes, you’ll find natives Sam Bonsey and Josiah Bonsey pearls, rose, and creme fraiche; hummus with various salads, 310 Massachusetts Avenue, Cam- run the colorful little counter-service restaurant, where you or ponzu and lemon bourekas, spice-rubbed lamb bridge, 617-945-9290, gopagu.com order scoops of ever-changing fresh fish, maybe topped with verbena. But there’s much more spare ribs, and challah-wrapped Pammy’s avocado, pickled onions, or macadamia nuts, best eaten at than oysters at this bright, tiled cod in coconut curry. At the bar, Do we really need another one of the handful of tables. Prefer dry land? Ask for a plate of North End seafood spot. Chef gin are the focus; there’s a Italian-inspired trattoria? We fried chicken and a scoop of “mac salad.” Portions are big. So Douglas Rodrigues’s food is at takeout counter, too. do when it’s this good. A fire are the good vibes. turns elegant and cheeky, from crackles in the white-tiled 300 Beacon Street, Somerville, 617-945-1042, manoa.fish salmon crudo with Chinese hot 197 North Harvard Street, Allston, 617- fireplace as a statue of the mustard to lobster and oxtail 303-0101, ourfathersdeli.com harvest goddess Demeter looks Poke City Bolognese to lobster rolls served Pagu out over the room: Cantabrigians “Have you ever tried poke before? Would you like a sample?” hot or cold. Asia meets Spain at this all-day are contentedly consuming foie asks a smiling staffer at Poke City, outside Porter Square. It’s Central Square original from gras torchon, pork chop with easy to get overwhelmed, so the warm greeting is appreciated. 5 North Square, Boston, 617-829-4975, chef Tracy Chang, who gained a pancetta dashi, and chef Chris The pleasure here comes from creativity. Design your own northsquareoyster.com local following with her Guchi’s Willis’s beautiful handmade meal by ordering assembly-line style from a dazzling array Our Fathers Restaurant Midnight Ramen pop-ups. She pasta dishes, such as lumache of proteins, mix-ins, and sauces—spicy salmon with sriracha & Bar and Deli dishes up bottomless , with Bolognese and gochujang. aioli? surf clam with pineapple salsa?—and enjoy. If you’re Old-school deli, meet new- avocado toast, and adzuki A quintessential neighborhood making a dubious decision, someone will gently steer you to school deli. The folks who bean croissants in the morning; restaurant that might make you safety. run Citizen Public House, the chicken katsu lunch sets at mid- want to move to this neighbor- 1722 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617-945-2916, pokecityma.com

PHOTOGRAPHS:REELHOUSE BY KEITH BEDFORD/GLOBE STAFF/FILE; MANOA POKE SHOP BY JOANNE RATHE/ GLOBEFranklin STAFF/FILE Cafe, and Tasty Burger day; and jamon iberico, tortilla hood, between Central and

JANUARY 14, 2018 21 Harvard squares.

928 Massachusetts Avenue, Cam- bridge, 617-945-1761, pammyscam- bridge.com Prairie Fire The team behind Steel & Rye in Milton branches out to deliver just what Coolidge Corner Ruka needed. In the prime location that used to be Lineage, Prairie Downtown Crossing Fire puts its wood oven to good is on the culinary use, cooking oysters, veg- doused in—what else?—cheese. map once more, etables, and especially blistered, In a restaurant world that some- and nowhere is that crisp-edged pizza, topped with times takes itself too seriously, mushrooms, kale, and roasted this is a happy reminder that more apparent than leeks; fennel sausage, tomato, dining out can be just plain fun. at Ruka, a lively joint and cheese; and more. Come for for the Peruvian- the pizza, salads, and pastas; 292 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, stay for the warm atmosphere 617-945-7244 and 617-714-3960, area- Asian fusion cuisine and knowledgeable service. four.com and roxysgrilledcheese.com known as Nikkei. Ruckus Located in the God- 242 Harvard Street, Brookline, 617- Walk up a narrow flight of stairs, 396-8199, prairiefirebrookline.com leave the Chinatown bustle frey Hotel Boston, behind, and enter a happy little it’s under the same noodle parlor with surreal murals management as (are those chopsticks jumping Locke-Ober replace- off the walls?) and satisfied slurpers devouring some of the ment Yvonne’s. A quirkiest ramen in town, topped few years ago, who with “swag”—house parlance would have thought for extras—like fried chicken and grilled corn. In a hurry? Grab that you could enjoy an out-there like a dirty whole crispy Japa- bird salad with grilled chicken Terra nese butterfish and thighs and charred tomatoes. Fast-casual Ruckus is from the On the top floor of Italian megamarket Eataly, in the blackened octopus Roxy’s Central / A4cade folks behind the excellent Best Prudential Center, Terra is a bustling restaurant with in Filene’s Basement Grilled cheese and arcade Little Restaurant and Shojo, so a heart of fire. Wood fire, that is. Chef Dan Bazzinotti territory? The vibe games—what’s not to love? the food quality matches the is slinky, the music is Roxy’s Grilled Cheese joined ambience. and crew pull smoke-kissed skewers and chops forces with Area Four to bring from the leaping flames of the hearth. From rab- thumping, and the 5 Tyler Street, Boston, 857-305-3155, this boozy adult playground to ruckusboston.com bit agnolotti to chestnut pappardelle, pasta is also drinks are strong. Central Square, and the result a highlight. The gorgeous space, all skylights and There’s a solid sushi is pure joy. Drink cocktails from Singh Saab sippy cups, watch sitcoms on From the team that ran Santa flourishing green potted plants, is always bustling. program, too. big-screen TVs, and play vintage Banta in Waltham comes Singh (After allegations of sexual misconduct, Mario Batali 505 Washington Street, games like Mortal Kombat II, Saab in Arlington Center, is no longer the public face of Eataly.) Boston, 617-266-0102, rukare- all while sucking down cheese with food from the Punjab, in stobar.com

dogs, cheese fries, and rib melts northern India. With father and 800 Boylston Street, Boston, 617-807-7307, eataly.com PHOTOGRAPHS: ROXY’S CENTRAL/A4CADE BY KEITHBY BEDFORD/GLOBE STAFF/FILE; KEITH RUKA BEDFORD/GLOBE BY STAFF/FILE JONATHAN WIGGS/GLOBESTAFF/FILE; TERRA

22 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE son Surinder Singh and Rajwant Singh in the kitchen, puffy, chewy, lightly charred nan is as delicious as it was at Santa Ban- ta. Even a simple vegetarian dish like chana masala—chickpeas with tomatoes—is simmered Expense-account dining might be making a comeback, but it’s also never in an intense, aromatic sauce. been a better time to grab a quick bite, from healthy salads to spicy sandwiches. There are tandoor dishes, several entrees, and a handful of Indo-Chinese specialties. 225 Newbury Street, Boston, 617-572-3300, gre- Rajwant Singh also owns Singh coboston.com Ching in Burlington, which offers Honeygrow a similar menu. A young woman at the door, dead serious, greets a visitor with “I’m your ambas- 444 Massachusetts Avenue, Arlington, sador.” Take a deep breath while she 781-648-9500, singhsaabusa.com explains the menu board, which isn’t Spoke Wine Bar that different from those at many other What the Boston area needs places that let you create your own grain is a Spoke Wine Bar in every bowl or salad. But this 20-plus-location neighborhood. The Davis Square Philly-based chain with branches in the stalwart is small—12 tables and Fenway and the Seaport does stir-fries, 13 barstools—with delightful too. You order and pay on a screen. Among small plates and adventurous, the salads, stir-fries, and “honeybar”—a small-producer wines. Opened fruit-honey-cream-topping bowl you build in 2013 by Felisha “Flea” Foster, yourself—this well-organized operation who sold to a former bartender has something more or less healthy for three years later because of everyone. All bowl and dish combinations serious health problems, the Honeygrow already on the menu have calorie counts. little spot reopened this year to A Cobb salad is over 800. If that matters, an eager audience. The chefs you’re better off with white bean tuna trained at top area kitchens, and Anoush’ella Saj Kitchen small meetings, and Prada ladies use it to (500). On second thought, we’d rather the food is outstanding. Foster, With this stylish fast-casual spot, first- meet for coffee. not know. who died in October, would time restaurateur Nina Festekjian draws on be proud of this generation of her Armenian and Lebanese heritage. The 75 Binney Street, Cambridge, 857-259-6410, cata- 1282 Boylston Street, Boston, 857-991-1647, and ownership. result is a slam-dunk, offering food that is lystcafecambridge.com 100 Northern Avenue, Boston, 857-350-3642; flavorful, healthy, and reasonably priced, Gre.Co honeygrow.com 89 Holland Street, Somerville, 617-718- not always the easiest thing to come by in Greek is the new Italian, and it works well Num Pang 9463, spokewinebar.com the South End. The restaurant specializes in a fast-food setting. Jody Adams and her Eataly and Wagamama are steps away, Troquet on South in sandwiches toasted on a saj, or griddle; team are doing it at Saloniki Greek in the but neither comes close in value and qual- Longtime Theatre District you’ll find everything from lentil kofta to Fenway and Cambridge. So are Stefanos ity to Num Pang, the Prudential Center standby Troquet rises again za’atar chicken rolled in the flatbreads. Ougrinis and partner Demetri Tsolakis location of a New York mini-chain. Flavors in a new location near South There are also grain bowls, salads, and (Committee and Cafeteria) in this light- are Southeast Asian (“num pang” means Station. Executive chef Scott creations built on the strained yogurt filled basement on Newbury Street. Coun- “sandwich” in Khmer), adjusted for Ameri- Hebert continues to create labneh. “Anoush’ella” is an Armenian ter workers slice meat off gyros to tuck into can tastes. But you get the full panoply modern, seasonal dishes such expression meaning “may it be sweet.” thick, warm pita with a handful of fries. of crisp textures, colorful vegetables, aro- as cold-smoked hiramasa crudo; And indeed it is. Rolled, they look like fat ice cream cones. matic herbs, rice, and grains. Put together butternut squash bisque with These cooks are brilliant at combining juicy a bowl or get a bahn-mi-ish sandwich with chicken confit; steamed turbot 35 West Newton Street, Boston, 857-265-3195, meats with salty components. Fries served chili mayo and a mountain of crispness with fennel, shrimp, and red anoushella.com on their own come sprinkled with feta and tucked into crusty bread. curry; and roast porcelet with Catalyst Cafe oregano—you’ll swoon. Zucchini chips are maple mustard and quince. They Take your laptop to this Kendall Square phenomenal. It’s crowded here, with just 800 Boylston Street, Boston, 857-239-8535, go hand in hand with pairings cafe and work on your novel. It’s the kind 18 seats. Go during off hours. numpangkitchen.com from sommelier-owner Chris of place that lets you while away the after- Campbell, whose wine list is as noon, perhaps on a cozy banquette, and Catalyst Cafe much of an attraction as ever. A never get tired of where you are. The gray casual bar menu offers pleasures color scheme is ideal for this light-filled like lobster avocado toast and space. The geometric figures on the ceiling a double burger with candied are the molecular symbol for caffeine. The bacon. coffee’s good, the sandwiches pressed to a golden, melty goodness, and the brown- 107 South Street, Boston, 617-695- butter chocolate-chip cookies wonderful. 9463, troquetboston.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: HONEYGROW BY SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF/FILE; CAFE CATALYST BY ARAM BOGHOSIAN The high-tech crowd uses Catalyst Cafe for

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