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Del i catessen by Norman D. Jarvis

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR r FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE 1:

BUREAU OF COM MER CIAL s ::>

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Fishery Leaflet 553 e : o UNITED STATES DEPARTM T OF TilE J TERI R , tewa rt L. dalJ, ecretary

FISII A:-iD WILDlIFE SER\,I ut~ke. Camm/ufo"er Bl RHl ' OF C0'1'1fRC"1 FI\II ERIES. Donold t . 'fc Kern .. n. Direct or

C'renteu 111 1849. the D pnl'tlnpnt of the I ntenor-.\ mericn· Dt?r~rllllellt o f Xaturnl Resources--I <'oncprneci \lith the mlln· '\~PIlWllt, ('onst'n-ntloll, nnd denlopll1Pllt of the. 'nt Ion' ",oter. tish. \I-tldllfp. millPrnl, forpst, llnd ]lark ond rpcrenllonnl I'e· ,OUIWS, II also has mlljor I'PSpOIl _ibilille fol' I ndinn nnd TPI'r ilol'lll1 nffnlr _ .L thp Xntioll' prlncipnl consen-I\IIOn n~enc)', the Depoli· Illent \lorks 10 nssul'P Ihnl nonl'elll'\\,nhie re onl'l'p nre den·loped nlld nspd wisely, Ih'lI ]l:ll'k llllcl recrealiollal resoul'ce ore con· '('fl'ed fur Ihe fnllll'l', llnd thnl I'pne\\'nhle resol1l'C mnke their full conlributioll to Ihe pI'ol!'re S. prospel'it)'. nnd security of the l 'nited Stntes--Iloll- nnd in the future.

Washington, D.C. August 1963 DELICATESSEN FISH PRODUCTS

D eli catessen fi hery products ar e Herring Salad, Alaska c]as ifi d as uch in this report 10 lb. salt herr in ;,: 3 Ih. a pplf'. b ause they are largely retailed 2 lh. p ickled bea n. 2 lb. ma.\ onnaisf' through food stores of this ty pe. 1 lb. c u c um b e r 112 lb. slllok .. d sal, p i('klp, sour mon The ba ic ingredients of these prod­ 1 lb. c u (' u m b e r 1,4 lh. onion ucts are sa lt and smoked fi sh. p i('k lf', s w pet 1 hottl(' (:.! oz.) Preparation often involves the II e 1 Ill. mustard p ickle caperS of vinegar and spices. While they S oak the salt herri ng in watcr for are not 0 stable as some ty p es of about 24 h ours, chall gillg thl' "'alpr cured fi sh , preparation in variou two or three times, or fre~ h cn in ways keep these products in good running water for 4 to 6 hOllrs. condition longer than ordinary S kin and fill et th e her ring, 1'cmo,'­ fre h fi sh. More important, h ow­ i ng all bones. D ice into sma II ever, is the fact that the e products pi eces. P eel and dice the appl('s. are made more appetizing and pala­ ke('ping under water until nc('<1P(1. table, thus appealing to consllmers to prc" ent d iscoloration. Chop who would not relish greatly the fin ely the sweet an d SOliI' CUClllllb('l' ordinary types of cured fi sh. The pickl e tog('thel' with the 1l1llslard pickl es, pickl (' <1 beans, aud ca]wrs. l' cipes given here are only a few Dice the smok('d salmon and grat(' of the most popular kinds. There the onion. Mix a ll ingn,dipnt:-o are many other. The products de- thoroughly \y ith t he mayollnais('. cribed here have been tested. The sa lad sh oul d "tund at ]Past :2-1- Herring Salad h oul's to blen d fl avors. This salad is usually sen 'eel on lettuc(' ",ith a H elTing salad is a favorite gal'l1i h of slic('cl hard boiled eggs, method of preparing alt herring . caper and nut meats. There are a great many fOl'llllllae f or this di h . If h eat-processed, in Herring Salad, German glass a special type of mayonnai e 2;; lb. p ot atoe, 1 % Ib, onions, with a much higher solid vegetable bo iled ~mlln<1 2R Ih. cucumber s, % lb. bOl's(',ru(lisb, fat content i u ' ed. The unproc­ sa Hed g-roulld ~ . ed h rring alad, jf p ackaged and 20 Ih. beets, hoiled 2 oz. pl']llWr 1eld at low t einperature (about -1:0° fi O 111. Iw r rill!r. salt :\ If'llIflIIS. jnicp and 8'.) will r emain in cy ood condition 10 lb. mayollnaise oil (flj1lillll!ll) !or everal week, and j u. Il:lll y P aprika to taste n I' appetizing than the processcd Fre, 11('11 herring hy soaking in a p . Thi al 0 applie to t una tank of ",ntH frolll 11 to :!-1- hOlll"-'. alad. olium benzoate (~'1o of 1 clP ]wIHl ing on indi"iclllal ta:-otc, ) rent) may bc u. I'd a a pr e. en 'a- Then. k in, fillpt. and dice Ii"h. Dice 1V if pr(,,'(, ll cc and amount are cuculllbpl''-o. b(,pts, alld pot ato<'" and tat d on the label. mix with herring. Mix hor~craJ- ish, onions, and pepper with may­ Mix with chopped veal, ham, an· onnaise. The juice and oil of 3 chovies, onions, diced potatoee lemons may be added, if desired. beets, apples, and pickles. Ad( Fold mayonnaise mixture lightly French dressing and vinegar but thoroughly into the other in­ Mayonnaise may be substituted fo gredients. Package and store at 34° Fl'ench dressing, or the Frencl to 40° F. dressing may be diluted with may onnaise. Stir thoroughly toget he Herring Salad, Italian and store in a cool place for 48 houn 10 lb. hoiled tongue 30 lb. salt cuenrnhpr Anange on platter and garnis (i lb. a p"l.,s 20 lb. sa It IlPrri lIg with sli ced hard boiled eggs, caper: :!() lb. hoiled pota- 6 lh. mayonnaise small pickled ollions, parsley, an toes 1% lb. grouud on- fi lb. (,pl ery ions m:tyonnalse. 10 Ih. carrots lh Ih. horse-ra d isb Smo ked Herring Salad Curr.I' powdpr, mace, and JlPpper to taste. Juice and oil of 3 lemons optional. 8 oz. canneu smoked lh cup fin e 1 herring fillets in choppPd onion Freshen the salt herring by soak­ oil l,4 cup vinegar ing in water overnight. Skin and 4 oz. anchovy fillets 4 tbs. s ugar fill et, removing all bones. Dice. 2 lb. boiled potatoes 1% cups w hiJlpi r 2 lb boiled heet cream Chop the celery fine. Peel apples, 2 lb. tar t cooking potatoes, and carrots a,nd cut into apples sma,1l di ce. Dice tongue and cu­ Cut herring and anchovy fille cumbers. Mix all these ingredients into very small cubes. P eel boile thoronghly. Blend onions, hoI' e­ beets and potatoes, then cut in1 radish, and spice with the mayon­ larger cubes. P eel apples and Cl 'mise. The juice and oil of:~ lelllons ; into the smallest possible cuL€ may also be added, if desired. Then . Apples are intended to give fres] add mayonnaise to other ingredi­ ness to the taste, but should not J pnts. Store in a cool place. Though visible. Mix fish, beets, { this herring salad is knowll as Ital­ apples, and onion. Add vinegar ian it was obtained from a German which sugar has been di s~ () l ve source. Ingredients should be mixed ve Herring Salad, Swedish li ghtly so that the cubes are n bl'okell. Finally fold in the crea 5 lb. salt hprring % lb. sour pic-kif's 3 lb. boiled veal 2 lh. Frenc' II' clr('ss­ whipped to the consistency of a thi % lb. barn illg sauce. It must not be too thick 2 lb, boil f'd potatoes 1 pt. whitp I ' in('~ar it will curdle when mi xed. P a, 2 lb. boiled beets 112 Ih. cllOlIJWcI an­ in containers, to be sealp(l all (l he 2 lb, apples chovy fill ets at a temperature of 4UO F. Ul\' lh lb. onions retailed. Soak herrin g in fresh water over­ night (12 hours) . Skin and fil let, Salad removing all bones. Wash and No two commercial tuna sala drain, then cut into small cuLes. are prepared by exactly the sal

2 rOl'lnula, but they do not how the Salmon Salad wi Ie variety characteristic of her­ 5 lb. almon 2 cups di I'd onion ring salad. The recipe given here 5 lb. diced boiled 8 cups .·our-C1"l'am is typical. It is offered, however, potatoes (\re', ing only as a guide. The same r cipe Sa lt, pepper, a nd fresll dill to taste. with minor variations to suit the Combine ingredient, th n sea on ta te may be used for salmon salad. with salt, pepper, and dill, mixed. A cup of di ced dill pickle i ome­ 5 Ih. tnna 1% pt. mayonnaise 2% fit. tin ply diced 1h lb. hydrogenated times used in place of f re h di ll. celery vegetable s hort­ Sometimes a half cup of fresh 1 pt. finel y diced ening grated horseradish is added to the sweet piclde 1% tsp. salt sour-cream dres. ing, omitting fresh 12 diced harrl hoi led %. tsp. pepper dill or dill pi ckl es. T o make this fi le11l0n s amount of sou r-crealll dr s in g take: Flake tuna, di ce celery, pickle, 6 cups sour cream 4 tbs. salt and f:'ggs. Extract juice of lemons. 6 eg~ s bpll ten 2 tbs. mustard ombine all ingredients except lightly * tsp. pepper lemon juice. Season with salt and 1 cup vinegar p pper, and sprinkle lemon juice Add eggs, vinegar, and dry ill ­ over the whole. Combine shorten­ gredients to cream, mixing thor­ ing with mayonnaise, then mix with oughly. Cook dre sing in a double other ingredients. In some formu­ boiler sti rring co n tantly. until the lae one pil1t of diced cucumber is mixture begin to thicken. Pack­ :ncluded. Others u e sour instead age and tore like herrillg or tUlia ')f weet pickles. Still others use sa ad. t apers in place of pickles. These Fish Cakes varia t ion are entirely a matter of Frif:'(l fi sh cnkPs arE' sold rathf:'1' ta teo Package and hold at 4U o F. widely in deli catessens and at pn'­ lIIlti l l'etai leu. pared food counter of clepal'tllH'lIt Tuna Salad II store in the Atlantic coastal area. Thi product has po sibi litie ' for This is the only commercial other sect ions of the country. rcclp for tuna salad that differs 10 th. potatoes R 07.. butter or mnr­ widely from the on given above. !i lb. shredded suit ~arille ; Ih. 1\llla 7% cups Fren h tod 1 lb. di('\'d onioliS ; Ih. di(opd hoi\p(l !Ire ing lb. e"'gs, bea ten II, 07.. pI']lppr pol :ilo('s Soak fi sh in cold water for 'e\'enll . 1J2 (' II\IS d i(opd dill hOllr. . Th n . hrrd or break illto vickIe ' rna 11 pie e . Pla'e fish in a kett Il' ~nlt lind caycnne to ta teo and add water. H eat to boiling Flakp tlllla mix with other 111- point and drain off water. Boil rredi II and It on. Fill the potato and fi . h tog ther until ' 11 lad into l'Ollta i 111'1': and hold at dOllE'. D rain off liquid :\1H1 put fl . h ~() O F. ulltil l' 'Lailed. unu potato - in meat Trilluer with

3 yrinch plate. Pllt grollnd IIl USS ill Seviche all elpdl"lc mi~er, add beaten egg. Seviche lS ty pically a ,out margarine, onion, and pepper and Alllerican preparatioll . It is .'01 beat \111 til i ng1"ed ien ts are t hor­ ('oll!llIC rcially in tll ' Ili t ' cl • 'tab oughly mixed. Onions are ]lot used p rineipall y in the L at in -Am ' ri eu unless the trade has a 1'1"eferpncp quarters of otlr la rgl' ci t i 'S. It fOl" them. Form mixture illto l'S 'ential Iy cubed ra w fi .'h , p reser v( ca kes of the ll ~ua l size, dip inlwatPIl oy marinating in 'our-ora nge j u ic pmr roll in finp brpad (TUlll\)S. and br' This i. not th e j uice of Iinril fry Il lltil a light brown. The cakes oranges but a spceial var iety I an' not pad-;:aged uut ~o ld from ]"('­ fruit with a very SOU l' j llice, Wlli4 £rigprated display cases held at ap­ i ~ , g rown ill outherll Floricla. L in j)l"t)xillntlpl.\· -l-!J " F. j II i ee is gellem 11 y u.'l'd as a .'11 h. Crab Cakes ttlte in the llite<1. 'tal('s btlt South America it is c()ll.'i(l 'red i ('rab cakps are ~ol(l rathp\, extpn­ ferior to sour-orallge j tl ice. L em ~ i\'(·l.v in deli("ates~l'ns and food juice i never li se 1. T he fi . h ShOll stores in Maryland, Virginia, alld be fre.'h and fi r l1l f1l'.'ItPll. Co1'v i Xorth Carolina, and al so to SOlll~' is 1lI0. t f avored ill South Ameri, ('x tellt in other l\liddk Atlantic and St 1'i ped bas 11 £1 been f oulld to Southem States. The pro(luct "ar­ t he be t ubstitute in Nor I ies widely in quality, usually ac­ .\ merica, t h oll gh 'ea t rout (Wl'tl cording to the quality of ingredi­ fish) may a l ~o be II SP(l. 'fhe j PlltS, cooking fat, and care in g l'ed i en ts are: preparation. Any good stallllanl rl'c ipl' is ::-;a tisfactory. The follow­ 10 lb. fi"h ]:! to 15 yPlluw (,1 .} large olliull,' IH'PI 'en; illg fOl"lllll la is recOlnlllcllded: 3 cl oves of ga r lic Sa I t a IIU ca ,Y(, lIn( :; lb. t'l"nb lIIeat .-, "paten eggs fi cnps lime jnke t aste :! '/~ cups soft bn'ud 'J tbs. dry mustard S ea le fi sh and cleall tho L"Otigl 1 crumbs :! tbs. ' Vorcest t'r- % cup minced onion "hire sauce Fill et fi sh , removing baek uone :I li oz. hutter ("ut fill ets into half-ineh etll i-;a l t, JlHpril(a t o t a;;te W ash a nd drain dieed fish . S I Melt uutter , add olli on, a nd cook onions thin, then mix with gar tlll til soft and yellow. Add other g round fin e. Mix fi sh and oni ing redients and m ix together. If garlic mixture together in a la t he texture is too dry add slllall uowl and sea on wi th salt to ta: am ollnt of milk. Form m ixture S li ce pepper and tldd. The yell into cakes of the desired size ( usu­ hot p eppers of L oui si alla, preser ally a bout the same as fish in glass, are acceptablp for th e p cakes), dip in beaten egg, roll in pose. Stir a li ttle cayenne pep bren.d crumbs, and fry in deep fat into lime juiee and pour over (about 3750 F.) until brown. Drain ·whole. Tartaric acid, d issolved cakes on fat-absorbent paper. wa tPT" , is SOl1lrt i mes used i ll steao Handled like fi sh cakes. lime juiee. The ~ev i ehe is al101

4 ~o stand overnight before use. '!'his fr01l 1 stoc:kfish. Lutefisk is pl,€• preparation will remain in good pared by a special process. Stock· condition about 5 days at average fish is a split, dried, un alted cod­ room temperatures, and longer fiflh. Hard-dried or export-cure lmder refrigeration. salt cod is sometimes used in mak­ Seviche is also made from shell­ ing lutefisk, but is considered in­ fish such as clams or and ferior to as raw material. shrimp or fresh-water crayfish. The gcneral method of preparation is as described above. The meat of I hc crustacea i's II sed raw or "green." The clams and an~ shucked raw. Only the "beard" is removed from the mllssels. The dark body mass or "stoma('h" is separat£'d from til£' clams. COD

Gravlax (Marinated Salmon)

]() III. sal ilion 1 ths. n Ilspice 1 pt. oliv(' oil 1 ths. IYliitp pf'pper To prepare lutetisk, 1 cup sal t 1 t lis. sa I tJ.)\>ter proceed as follows: Cover the stock­ 1 CliP hrown s lI/.:ar 1 t<;/I. IIluee ]4 cnp r r f' S h. fish with clear cold water and allow chopp('d d ill it to soak for 4 days, being sure to change the water every day. Th£' I This is a favoritp Swedish delica- essen dish. Clean .and wash the fi"h should be kept in a cool place salmon, thorollghly. Then spl it preferably out-of-doors as the odor lengthwise, removing the backbone. is objec:tionable to some people, but R illflC fill ets, drain and wipe dry. care should be taken to prevent Rub oil well into both sides of the freezing afl thi fl ruinfl the product. fiflh halvefl. Mix together salt, When the fish has bepn fl llfficiently sugar, saltpeter, white pepper, floaked, cover with c:old water to ~ roun d allflpice, and mace. Coat whic:h has been added a soluti011 of hoth sides well with mixture, rub­ floda and lime; for 5 pounds of fi sh bin g into fl esh. P lace chopped dill use 2 cups of waslling floda and 3 )n top. P lace both halves together or 4 cups of fllack lime to about 12 wd tie tightly with string. Set in gallons of water. A large c:o ntai ner \ fl hallow pan and preflS under mod­ such as a salting butt is used for 'mte weight for 48 hours. Serve soaking. Let the fi fl h soak in this n thin sli('Ps. May be packaged "lnte" for 3 or 4 days. POllr off the II n glaflfl. Store at 34° to 40° F . solution and again soak the fish in r, clear cold water for at least 3 daYfl 1: utefisk to remove all of the chemicals, 1 Lll tefi sk lfl a food product of changing the water every day. )E \ca ndinavian origin, prepared Keep in a cool plac:e or the fish will )E 11'(

5 spoil. The I utefi 'k should now pour off water. The cooked lutefi have the desired consistency and should have a white and flaky a flavor. pearance, breaking into pieces as If directions for cooking are re­ is placed on a platter. Serve wi que ted the tanc1ard recipe is: melted butter or a white sauce, j Coyer fi h with cold water and allow gether with boiled or mashed poj it to comE' to a boil. ;1chlinp: n little toes, dashed with pepper and s: salt. Boil about 10 minutes, then to taste.

This leafl et is a revision of pages 254 -260 of Curing of Fish Products, by orman D. J .lrvis , U. S. Depa rtment of the Interior, Fish and Wildlife Ser vice. Research Repo rt 18, ~ 950

MS 1112

GPO 861·01 6