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The North Way

The ’ Ways to in Alfonso II the Chaste.

Oviedo archives

Liber Testamenctorum (s. XII). Liber Testamenctorum and á gina 3 perhaps not as well- the pilgrims either had popularity from the late onwards. popularity from route from León to Oviedo enjoyed even greater from route and Galician routes, as the stretch of the as the stretch and Galician pilgrimage routes, The Northern Route is not a local coastal road The Northern Route is not a local coastal road however, bring about the decline of Asturian however, for the sole use of Asturians living along This endorsement of the did not, Way This endorsement of the French shoreline. This medieval route gave rise to an This medieval route shoreline. kingdoms in the North of . internationally renowned current, directing current, internationally renowned ideal route, and provided a link for the Christian and provided ideal route, pilgrims towards the sanctuaries of pilgrims towards monarchs proclaimed the French Way to be the Way the French proclaimed monarchs , older pilgrims’ ways long before the Spanish older pilgrims’ ways long before travelled as the the French Way, but certainly Way, travelled as the French Santiago. The coastal route was as busy the other, Santiago. The coastal route bustling with activity until the 18th century. were the first to take pilgrims Asturias were These pilgrims came by land from , These pilgrims came by land from around 820. The routes from the old Kingdom of from 820. The routes around or by sea from Atlantic nations such as , or by sea from of the tomb Apostle Saint James Greater , and Scandinavia, reaching Flanders, Germany and Scandinavia, reaching back to the period immediately following discovery the ports of Basque Country and . along the northern coasts of Galicia and Asturias date They would then set out on their journey towards The origins of the pilgrimage way to Santiago which runs the sanctuary of San Salvador Oviedo and the cathedral of Santiago. The North Way Once they reached , Once they reached to cross the “ría” –inlet– of by boat or travel to cross along the right bank of estuary to bridge Santiago de Abres, where they would enter Galicia. where Santiago de Abres, 3 The North Way NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:20 P

Translation S.L. Interlingua Traduccións Olson Teed Claire Revision and updating Carraig Linguistic Services Design and Lay-out Permuy Asociados Printing LITONOR D.L.: C 2654-2009 á gina 2

Photography da S.A. de Xestión Arquivo do Plan Xacobeo García Pedro Arias Tono advice Technical da Dpto. de Arquitectura S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo Revision Dori Abuín Carla Fernández-Refoxo Carmo Iglesias Alfonso Salgueiro

Texts Francisco Singul Editing Ana B. Freire Rosa García Documentation: pilgrims’ hostels and services Pilar Cuíña Rosa Fernández Ana B. Freire Rosa García Rubio Coroni NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:19 P NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:20 Página 4 NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:20 Página 5

Antonio Lalaing, Lord of Montigny (1502), and the Italian , Bartolomeo Fontana (1539).

During the period, the North Way was used by many pilgrims who opted to chronicle their experiences and itineraries. Jakub Sobieski (1611), the father of King John III Sobieski of , made the pilgrimage via the French Way to León, before taking a detour to Oviedo and taking the coastal route to Ribadeo and continuing on his way to Santiago along the North Way. Another Italian pilgrim, Sebastian Left: Bridge over the River Arnela Gatti reached Ribadeo by sea in 1698 and Right: Sobrado Lake The present-day journey has been simplified by the construction continued his journey on foot until arriving in of a bridge linking Asturias and Ribadeo. After arriving in Galicia, Santiago via the same route. In 1726 the French the pilgrimage route is well-documented: it started out from the town pilgrim, Guillermo Manier and his fellow of Ribadeo, which also had a port used by pilgrims, and continued pilgrims chose the North Way to make to travelling inland through the valleys of Vilanova de Lourenzá and journey back to France. In 1790 the Frenchman, Mondoñedo, crossing the high flatlands of and , Jean Pierre Racq wrote a detailed account of and at the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes the pilgrims received his pilgrimage to San Salvador in Oviedo and to the hospitality of the monks, just before the route joined the French Way Santiago de Compostela via the North Way. in Arzúa. Just a few days’ travelling would finally bring them to Santiago The Galician stretch of this Way covers 170 and the tomb of the Apostle. kilometres between Ribadeo and Santiago and Among the thousands of pilgrims who travelled to Santiago via the is clearly signposted with stones decorated North Way, one figure who stands out is Saint Francis of . with a ceramic shell and a vital piece of According to tradition, he made the pilgrimage to San Salvador in information for pilgrims: their exact location on Oviedo and Santiago de Compostela in 1214. In the late 15th century, the Way. In addition to the famous yellow arrow the Armenian Bishop Martyr of Azerbaijan made the pilgrimage to of the Associations of the Friends of the Way, and Santiago using the North Way, which passed through the Basque these milestones make it easy for the pilgrim to Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia. There are two chronicles dating find their way, as they appear in strategic from the 16th century recorded by pilgrims who travelled a similar route: locations such as at crossroads and turn-offs. Pasatiempo Bridge. Mondoñedo Pancha Island. Ribadeo

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Ribadeo – Vilanova de Lourenzá

The town of Ribadeo, an important tourist centre and the capital of the , is the starting point of the North Way in Galicia. Ribadeo is perched on a natural lookout point, overlooking the ría –inlet– and is the gateway Porcillán Port. Ribadeo to the northernmost pilgrimage route, linking Way of Antiquity or a road dating from the early prior the sanctuaries of Oviedo and Santiago. to the 8th century, which was still frequented at the beginning of The town of Ribadeo is one of the most the and in later times. On leaving this coastal town, important strategic and tourist enclaves the route leads us to Ove, which still preserves a stretch of the on the northern coast and has long-standing medieval way, and then heads towards the parish of Covelas, connections with the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago. passing through the villages of Valín and Pastoriza. In fact, it must be remembered that between the 13th and 18th centuries it was considered The North Way then heads towards Vilela, passing not far from to be the “protector of the ”. Cedofeita (“cito facta”, one of the settlements in the area dating from the early Middle Ages) and continues on to Lourenzá, going Its noble past has left a considerable number of through a number of small, quaint places that are rich in history architectural and historical monuments dating and tradition: Ponte de Arante –the site of a pilgrims’ from both the and the Modern founded in the 16th century; also has an interesting chapel with Era. One of the most outstanding monuments is frescos dating from the same period–, Vilamartín Pequeno, Left: Mural paintings. the parish church of Santa María do Campo, A Ponte. Ribadeo Vilamartín Grande, Gondán and O Corveiro. which originally belonged to the Franciscan Right: Raised granaries convent, and according to tradition, was founded in Ove. Ribadeo in 1214 by a disciple of Saint Francis. Also dating House of the Moreno Family. Ribadeo from the late Middle Ages is the convent of Saint Claire in Ribadeo, founded by nuns from Oviedo at the end of the 15th century, as well as the Chapel of the Trinity, from the 14th century, located on the lookout point known as the Atalaya. This lookout point was an important element in the defence system of the town between the 16th and the 18th centuries. The most emblematic civil buildings in Ribadeo are the Town Hall, which is a Neo-classical palace that formerly belonged to the Marquis of Sargadelos, and the Torre de los Moreno, a luxurious art-nouveau manor house that has been converted into a public library.

The route out of Ribadeo follows “the Ancient Road of Lorenzana”, which appears as an “antique strata” on a certificate signed by King Silo (774), indicating believe that it was a Roman 7 The North Way of Vilanova de Lourenzá

Tomb of the “Holy Count” Tomb

Church of Vilanova de Lourenzá Church

Monastery of Vilanova de Lourenzá Altarpiece – reliquary in the Church in the Church Altarpiece – reliquary

(late V – early VI c AD). Chapel of Valdeflores. á gina 9 legacy of Lourenzá was enhanced with the chapel of legacy of Lourenzá and the magnificent altarpiece- Our Lady of Valbanera The Neo-classical period the monastery. from reliquary of the main has contributed the solemn architecture wooden images crafted altarpiece and the polychromed José Ferreiro. Galician sculptor, by the renowned collections of the Religious Art Museum The interesting paintings, gold and silver work, woven (sculptures, further examples of this town’s fabrics, etc.) are rich cultural heritage. there Ribadeo-Vilanova de Lourenzá from On the stretch times during the which at different is an alternative route, numbers of large course of history was also used to direct the that travels across pilgrims to Santiago. It is the route of Asturias and the regions lowlands of the river Eo through Galicia, passing the Asturian of Castropol, and the municipality of and Santiago de Abres of (founded in the early in the province passing the valley, runs through Middle Ages). The Way the villages of As Lóngaras, O through do Malle, San Esteban and Trapa, it joins up with the ancient where the reaching Road before Lourenzá da Cadeira, chapel of San Marcos just outside Vilanova de Lourenzá. 9 The North Way NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:21 P rich in á gina 8 the capital of the municipality, is a town the capital of municipality, Vilanova de Lourenzá, Vilanova sprang up around and squares as its streets packed with history, by the Benedictine offered the charitable services and care (the “Saintly monastery founded by Count Don Osorio Gutiérrez monastery of Vilanova Count”) in the year 969. The present-day was building whose church is a grandiose Baroque de Lourenzá designed in 1732 by Fernando de Casas Novoa, one of the great tradition of the first half of the Galician Baroque architects designed by Casas The elegant of the church 18th century. as being the Novoa between two solid towers may be interpreted façade of the to the design of famous Obradoiro precedent Cathedral of Santiago. of Lourenzá, Once inside the old monastery church the pilgrim may visit altarpieces and devotional sculptures, (18th century), which houses the the chapel of Valdeflores the 6th century, dating from Paleochristian marble sarcophagus in the 10th century from imported by Don Osorio Gutiérrez place. The Baroque Aquitaine (France) to serve as his final resting

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Vilanova de Lourenzá – Mondoñedo

After leaving Vilanova de Lourenzá, the ancient pilgrimage route crosses the valley of Lourenzá and passes through the small villages of Arroxo, Ogrobe, San Pedro da Torre, Reguengo and San Paio. In almost all of these villages, the pilgrim can visit interesting chapels, like the one consecrated to the Virgin Mary of Guadalupe, in Ogrobe. Along this stretch, the North Way continues to follow the medieval “brea” – a route from Asturias that takes the traveller towards Lugo and Parga, entering Mondoñedo through the San Lázaro quarter, passing the Ancient Fountain. Mondoñedo chapel of the same name. of a cross, with three Typical street in Mondoñedo The of Mondoñedo, declared a historical- naves, a transept, three apses at the artistic site, is one of the Galician Episcopal Sees head, although only the central one and its wealth of historical and cultural treasures remains. The façade has retained its medieval make it one of the most fascinating in appearance, although it underwent major alterations Galicia. The Way travels through the quarter of during the Baroque period. The frontispiece boasts the Romanesque View of Mondoñedo Os Muíños, where the chapel of Santiago is porch and the magnificent that illuminates the main located (1645). It continues along the medieval nave. The medieval high altar chapel was surrounded by an street of Sindín (1328), today called Álvaro ambulatory with chapels in the 16th century and was decorated with a Cunqueiro St., which provided access to the large Baroque altarpiece in 1769 and covered with murals done in oils town centre inside the walled city, and which was in 1773. The cathedral houses a wealth of artistic treasures. actually the end of the royal road leading into Starting at the central nave, one is struck by the mural paintings the city. Before reaching the cathedral, the most located below the splendid Baroque organs. These frescos are the important building in the city, the pilgrims would work of the artist known as the Master of Mondoñedo and they were stop at the fountain, Fonte Vella (1548), to wash painted in the Spanish – Flemish Gothic style in the early 16th and quench their thirst. century. On the Gospel side of the altar, these murals depict various The cathedral of Santa María of Mondoñedo episodes in the life of Saint Peter, while the wall on the Epistle side (13th century) is Romanesque in style with represents various scenes, including the dramatic episode of The Cistercian elements. Its ground plan has the shape Slaughter of the Innocents, and on the far right, The Flight to Egypt.

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From left to right: Cloister and façade of Mondoñedo Cathedral

These murals were moved to their present day location after being removed from the old walls separating the choir from the aisles. The presbytery and north transept Los Picos. Mondoñedo hold the interesting collection of choir stalls dating from the early period. Cathedral in . After this church became Anglican, it was The south end of the transept has a door brought to Galicia under the protection of a rich British merchant of noble background, John Dutton, who lived in the town of . which opens on to the cathedral cloister. The pilgrims would rest there, strolling through the A little farther on, there is a door that connects to the rooms which galleries before continuing on to visit the church. today are part of the Cathedral and Diocese Museum of Mondoñedo. This cloister, in the style of Juan de Herrera, was This museum boasts a magnificent collection of religious art, such as designed by Master Diego Ibáñez Pacheco, who built it the Romanesque image of Our Lady of the See (12th century), the Rose window between 1636 and 1641, having been commissioned by Bishop Don English alabaster reliefs that belonged to the original main altarpiece in Mondoñedo Cathedral Antonio de Valdés and the Cathedral Chapter. The cloister is a sober (14th century), the altarpiece of Mary Magdalene (dating back to the building laid out in a square ground plan, built on a single storey and 16th century and an addition to a 14th century relief), several Flemish with a central patio, displaying an arrangement of semicircular arcades tablets from the 16th century, canvases painted by Luis Tristán (a finished off with a balustrade decorated with balls. The Doric order disciple of El Greco) dedicated to Saint Thomas of Villanueva, an respects the classicism of the “hortus conclusus” surrounding a Gothic Immaculate Virgin Mary by Roelas (17th century), and a number of English Virgin. stone cross, the only remaining element of the former medieval cloister. luxury objects such as the ebony coffer studded with sheets of tortoise Mondoñedo Cathedral The ambulatory of the cathedral of Mondoñedo has a number of shell and embossed silver made in the in the late 17th chapels. The first, appearing on the right, is the chapel of the Holy century. There are also several parchments of Gregorian chants. Sacrament, popularly known as the Chapel of the English Virgin. It was Mondoñedo boasts other historic buildings that embellish the streets built in the 14th century and is ogival in design, and originally led onto and squares of the city: the Hall (1568), the convent church the early medieval cloister. The interior of the chapel holds a Gothic of La Concepción (1716), the church of the Virgen de los Remedios image of the Virgin which is dearly loved by the city’s people, and (1733), the Hospital of San Pablo (1755), the Seminary (1775), the new originated from England in the 15th century. It is popularly known as Town Hall (18th century), the Episcopal Palace (18th century) and the “Nuestra Señora la Grande” or “the English Virgin”. According to church of Santiago (19th century). On the outskirts the convent of different sources, it would appear to have originated from Saint Paul’s San Martiño de Vilalourente, “Os Picos”, is outstanding (18th century).

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Mondoñedo – Vilalba

This medieval itinerary began to take shape and develop during a later period, towards the end of the Middle Ages.

This late medieval route leaves Mondoñedo by way of Fonte Vella and Rigueira streets and continues uphill towards the small towns of San Caetano via Valiñadares and Maariz. The medieval way winds its way through the valley washed by the Valiñadares river, passing through the villages of Valiña, Pacios and Lousada. It then continues to Gontán, Church of Santa María de Vilalba before reaching the town of Abadín, the capital of the municipality of the same name, located at the start of the flatlands, the Terra Chá. over the magnificent medieval bridge of Pontevella. The town still preserves the medieval church of Santa María de Abadín, The route takes the pilgrims through a sparsely built in the Romanesque style, whose façade has a porch with toric populated area, in the vicinity of the villages of archivolts and a large oculus to illuminate the nave. Mámoa and Outeiro. The way continues through Santiago de Goiriz and As Chouzas, before coming From Abadín, the Way travels through Terra Chá passing the parishes to Vilalba, at the heart of the Terra Chá and famous of Castromaior and Goiriz. It first arrives in Ponterroxal, then crosses the for its excellent local produce (capons and San Castromaior Cemetery Arnela river over a medieval bridge, reaching Castromaior and then goes San Simón cheese Simón smoked cheese). Vilalba is also a crossroads, defended by the fortress of the family. All that is left of the defence complex from the 15th century is the mighty tower which has been converted into a Nacional de Turismo –a state-run hotel–.

The town of Vilalba was founded in the 13th century although it was not until well into the 14th century that it became a thriving centre of trade and commerce, attracting crowds of visitors. From this period onwards, Vilalba began to compete with Lugo, which still exerted considerable influence. The route to Compostela was therefore shortened, making it unnecessary for the pilgrim to take the detour to visit the walled city of Lugo.

Andrade Tower. Vilalba Parador 15 The North Way River Parga

Church of Santo Alberte de Parga Church á gina 17 and the Chapel of San Alberte 17 The North Way late medieval bridge of the same name, separated consisting of two lancet arches The Gothic chapel by a central breakwater. was built during the second half of 14th century and has a single nave construction is reminiscent of the construction is reminiscent Romanesque tradition with its decoration In the atrium stand hundred- of sculptures. and a Calvary consisting year old trees –wayside crosses–. cruceiros of three The traveller leaves Baamonde by way of which runs parallel to the the N-VI road, Then, on its way river. railway and the Parga theto Santa Leocadia de Parga, North Way the spectacular takes pilgrims across the scenery that surrounds charming NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:22 P

Below: Saa Bridge The pilgrims would á gina 16 From Vilalba, the Way continues on to Baamonde Vilalba, the Way From and Sobrado dos Monxes, connecting up with several well-documented in the 17th ways that were royal laid out over were and which probably century, medieval roads. is as follows: the way leaves Vilalba, passing The route Ponte Rodríguez, Boizán, Gabín, San Xoán de through it and continues onto Insua, where Alba, Pedrouzos, de the Saa bridge, goes as far Ferreira crosses Pacios and then enters Baamonde. of in this little town and worship at the church rest Gothic Santiago de Baamonde, an interesting whose the mid 14th century, dating from structure

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presbytery covered with groined vaulting and illuminated Museum of Lugo. The by a slit ogival window. The exterior is noteworthy for keep offers a spectacular the noble ashlarwork reinforced by buttresses and the panoramic view. Four pointed arch door openings. From here the Way kilometres down the road continues towards San Breixo de Parga and arrives is the palace-fortress in Santa Leocadia de Parga. known as the “Torre de ”, originally built in The Pilgrims’ Way continues as far as , the 13th century, which passing through San Paio de Seixón (Friol), whose belonged to the Prado Romanesque church built in the middle of a plain family, an old noble family still preserves the original porch, without a who were descendants of tympanum, comprised of toric archivolts adorned the monarchs of Galicia with rosettes, an unusual and rare decorative and León. Back on the motif in the of Galicia. San Paio de Narla Fortress North Way, the traveller The northern wall bears an inscription informing passes through Mantelle, that the church was the work of Master Juan Cabana, Ledro, Travesa, and was built in the year 1140. Pedramaior and Marco The Way travels on through Ponte Leijosa das Pías, which is on the and arrives in Santiago de Miraz, where part provincial border of Lugo. of the old fortress belonging to the Saavedra After travelling through family still stands: a square-shaped 15th Esgueva, the pilgrim century tower topped with battlements which reaches the Cistercian has recently been restored. Near this tower Monastery of Santa María stands the mighty fortress of San Paio de de Sobrado (Sobrado dos Narla, which currently houses the Monxes, A Coruña). ethnography section of the Provincial Parga Bridge Left: The Way in Santa Leocadia de Parga

Below: Marco das Pías NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:23 Página 20 NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:24 Página 21

The kitchen in the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes Pilgrims’ Cloister. Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes Sobrado – Arzúa – Santiago de Compostela hospitality, which provided a vital source of support for the pilgrimages. Sobrado was the first Cistercian monastery established in . Construction started on the great church of the abbey in 1150 The monastery of Sobrado is although in the 17th century it was replaced by a Baroque church. over one thousand years old. It All that is left of the medieval church is the chapel of Saint John was founded as a family (1230), in the north transept, the lovely chapter room (1215-1220) monastery for nuns and monks in and the kitchen dating from the 13th century. the year 952. During the second The Monastery of Sobrado was incorporated into the Cistercian half of the 10th century, it Congregation of Castilla in 1498, in the framework of the reform of enjoyed a period of prosperity the religious orders sponsored by the Catholic Monarchs. The late under the protection of the 15th century marked the beginning of a period of renovation which Counts of Présaras and San also affected the church and the monastic buildings. This renovation Pedro de Mezonzo, who was the started with the building of a new processional cloister in 1560 to Abbot of Sobrado prior to his replace the medieval one. It had a rectangular ground plan and appointment as Bishop of elevations of two storeys built according to the Tuscan Order. Santiago. In 1142 the monastery joined the Cistercian Order, The church sacristy, also built during the Renaissance period, whose members practised and was designed following the central plan and exquisite classic taste spread the values of monastic of the Master from Santander, Juan de Herrera, who worked on it

Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes

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from 1569 to 1572. This room is located in the southern arm of the transept of the church, occupying the area where, in this part of the medieval church, the original open chapels stood. It has a square floor plan covered by a half-dome supported by pendentives in the shape of a scallop shell. It is accessed by an entryway in the shape of a semicircular arch of triumph resting on Ionic pilasters.

The 17th century saw intense building activity at the Monastery of Sobrado. Renovation work began in 1623, with the construction of the Cloister of the Pilgrims, laid out in a square floor plan and The Way in two storeys high, constructed in two superimposed classic orders: Doric in the lower part and Ionic in the upper area. The outbuildings around this cloister are proof of the monastery’s where the pilgrim can visit the church of San Lourenzo de interest in providing suitable accommodation to anyone passing Carelle. It then reaches Corredoiras and goes over a crossroad by the monastery en route to Santiago de Compostela. before heading towards Boimorto and the centre of Gándara. Façade of the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes Shortly thereafter, in 1630, work commenced on the new The Northern Way finally meets up with the French Way in the monastery church. Construction continued in 1647, following the town of Arzúa, famous in the region for its production of superb new designs of the architect, Pedro Monteagudo, who worked cheeses. From here the way follows an urban route. There are on it until his death in 1700, and who created one of the finest documented sources dating from the 13th century that refer to examples of Galician . This beautiful church, this section as the “Oviedo Way”, and today the street still laid out in a Latin cross, has a spectacular elevation in a bears the name of Rúa do Camiño. Here the North Way combination of orders. It also has a dome covering the transept converges with its sister way and shares both infrastructures and a façade, of exceptional verticality and harmoniously and route as far as Compostela, the pilgrim’s final goal. In Arzúa conceived decoration, which was completed in 1666. the traveller can visit the church of Santiago and the chapel of Pilgrims on their way through Arzúa A Magdalena, which belonged to a pilgrim hospital and if there The architect, Pedro Monteagudo, was also the author of the is time, he may stay at one of the establishments of rural Chapel of the (1673), located in the north transept, in the beautiful area around the Portodemouros reservoir. forming a magnificent covered space in the central plan with a dome resting on pendentives. Its Baroque style is enhanced by the After leaving Arzúa, the route now becomes the French Way, theatrical effects that play on the atmosphere, decoration, leading the pilgrim through meadows and woodlands of oak arrangement of the altarpieces and illumination. The rich and eucalyptus trees that skirt the small villages of Calzada, ornamental details of this chapel are fashioned in reliefs of Calle, Ferreiros, Salceda, Brea, Santa Irene –where the pilgrim Church of San Lourenzo extraordinary naturalism, orchestrated in representations exalting should make a stop to visit the church– and Rúa, located just de Carelle the triumph of the Rosary over original sin. before Arca, the capital of the municipality of , the last one before Santiago. Following the upheaval caused by the disentailment process of the 19th century and the subsequent abandonment of the building, Once in the municipality of Santiago, the pilgrim reaches the Cistercian monks returned to the monastery to restore it and Lavacolla, after passing by the city airport, and the famous to bring it back to life. At the present time it has been completely –a residential area for pilgrims and visitors–. restored to its former splendour. From the top of this hillock, the pilgrims get their first glimpse of the profile of the city of the Apostle and the towers of the After leaving the hospitality and the safety of Sobrado, the route cathedral sheltering the tomb of Saint James. continues on through the villages of Vilarchao, Peruxil and Carelle,

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–The Pantheon of Illustrious –, and the Centro Galego de Arte In Santiago Contemporánea(CGAC) –Galician Museum of Modern Art–, designed by the Portuguese architect, Álvaro Siza, and which today has become one of The French Way, the route used by the pilgrims travelling along the the most outstanding exhibition areas for contemporary art in Spain. North Way to gain access to Santiago (258 m), enters the urban part After passing the Porta do Camiño, the route begins its final stretch of the city through the district of San Lázaro,which has been through narrow pedestrian streets and squares. The first street is Casas converted into a service area housing the Conference and Exhibition Reais, lined with a number of important buildings, and where the guild of Centre, the Stadium, a number of administrative buildings money changers was once located. On the left is the small, but charming belonging to the autonomous government of Galicia and the Neo-classical parish church of A Nosa Señora do Camiño, and continuing Pavilion of Galicia,with a permanent exhibition on Galicia and the on a few metres more, the pilgrim finds the extraordinary façade of the Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago. The two most important historic chapel of As Ánimas,both dating from the late 18th century and offering buildings in this area, although recent, are the old lepers’ hospital interesting collection that are open to the public. (19th century) and the Chapel of San Lázaro (mid 20th century). The last stop before entering the basilica is the Cervantes square,the first After passing through the residential area of Fontiñas, where one large space for meetings and commerce of historic interest in the city, of the largest shopping centres of the city is located, the pilgrim and where the City Hall stood until the end of the 18th century. The parish reaches Os Concheiros,the name of the district and the street, church of San Bieito do Campo –18th century–, also Neo-classical, is one with its stalls tended by vendors selling scallop shells to the newly of the oldest buildings in this square. arrived pilgrims. Owing to this tradition the pilgrims were popularly From this point, the traditional route of the French Way follows the street of known in the city as “concheiros’ from the word concha –shell–. A Acibechería,with the imposing façade of the monastery of San Martiño The historic zone of the city becomes visible from the small square of Pinario (17-18th century) on the right, from which access is gained to one of San Pedro, with its cruceiro –wayside cross– brimming with legends. the most magnificent cloisters of Galicia and to the Cathedral through the Travelling down San Pedro Street, from the junction with the Porta do ancient Romanesque Paradise Door. This door, known today as A Acibechería, Camiño –a meaningful name– the pilgrim can see to his right two of was replaced during the second half of the 18th century while work was being the city’s most emblematic buildings: the old convent ofSan done in the transition from the Baroque to the Neo-classical style. Domingos de Bonaval–where the ‘Museo do Pobo Galego’ During the Holy Years of Santiago de Compostela pilgrims usually choose –Museum of the Galician People– is located–, which houses the only to enter the basilica by way of theHoly Door,located in Quintana square. Gothic church in the city –, the ‘Panteón de Galegos Ilustres’ This door is only opened during a Holy Year.

San Domingos de Bonaval Quintana Square Obradoiro Square The Cathedral Holy Door The City of Culture

Galician Centre of Contemporary Art Galician Centre á gina 27 by Santiago has enjoyed steady growth since Santiago has enjoyed steady growth In addition to the the mid 20th century. of the pilgrimages, gradual rebirth which keep its traditional spiritual significance alive, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has become a growing tourist and cultural attraction. years, Santiago, the administrative In recent of Galicia, capital of the autonomous region has seen the construction of a number important cultural and tourist infrastructures an and it has succeeded in projecting international image as a European oriented historic and cultural centre. the thousands of of this are Proof visitors that flock to the city every the year. day throughout Heritage Site a World Declared UNESCO, Santiago is anxious to maintain its thousand year old tradition of harmony, the through spirituality and progress historic tradition of its Pilgrims’ Way. The modern-day city 27 The North Way NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:24 P .

the document

hanging high up in the nave of

compostela, á gina 26 earning and spirituality thanks to the founding of the University and the city’s Renaissance and of the University and city’s in most of its major heritage, mirrored Baroque historical monuments and buildings After visiting the Cathedral, place where pilgrims first arrive and meet, they can enjoy a tour of the city Santiago in all its historic taking in the diversity and dynamic splendour, today. appearance it offers The modern-day city of Santiago de Compostela a small settlement of monks who evolved from the custodians of tomb Apostle were the year 820. around at the time of its discovery, The city underwent spectacular development during the Middle Ages, thanks to popularity which made it, along of pilgrimages in , great with and Rome, one of the three of the Christian world. centres Between the 15th and 19th centuries, city and decadence, alternated between prosperity in keeping with the fluctuating pulse of Pilgrimages history of Galicia, Spain and Europe. became less and important, but Santiago of culture, consolidated its position as a centre l

–a sculpture of Romanesque origin– and next, –a sculpture buried. are his remains to visit the crypt where A visit to the Portico of Glory is also part the ritual, as is attending pilgrims’ mass the swinging of at 12 noon, where , the transept surprises and delights visitor. After his visit to the Cathedral, if pilgrim justifying his credentials has all the required pilgrimage, on foot, horseback or by to bicycle, he may go to the Pilgrims’ Office ask for the his pilgrimage, which is granted by accrediting this moment on, From the Cathedral Chapter. the city of Santiago de Compostela belongs to the pilgrim to enjoy and treasure.

Raxoi Palace The Thurible The historic city

reveals an reveals

that takes him to the chapel of main In the Cathedral In the Cathedral The Cathedral of Santiago, whose construction began in the year 1075, is one of great both an artistic and monuments from European its Romanesque symbolic standpoint. From a number of styles, origins, it evolved through perhaps elements are although the Baroque the most outstanding, culminating in (1738-1750). A tour of façade of O Obradoiro the naves and its Museum and varied heritage both in content interesting and significance. During his visit to the cathedral and the pilgrim usually carries out a surroundings, ritual in keeping with the tradition, to altar, ‘embrace’ the Apostle Saint James NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:24 P NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:24 Página 28 NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:24 Página 29

Map of Santiago’s historic centre

1 Cathedral-Holy Door- Xelmírez Palace 2 Raxoi Palace 3 Reis Católicos Hotel 4 College of San Xerome 5 Church of San Fructuoso 6 Fonseca College 7 Cabildo House 8 Conga House 9 Parra House 10 Convent of San Paio de Antealtares 11 Monastery of San Martiño Pinario 12 Church of San Martiño Pinario 13 The Dean’s House. Pilgrims’ Office 14 Vaamonde Palace 15 Bendaña Palace 16 Church of Santa María Salomé 17 Convent of San Francisco 18 Convent of Carme 19 Convent of Santa Clara 20 Church and former hospital of San Roque 21 Gothic House. Pilgrimage Museum 22 San Domingos de Bonaval. Museum of the Galician People 23 Galician Centre of Modern Art 24 Faculty of History and Geography 25 University Church 26 Church of San Fiz de Solovio 27 Convent and Church of the Mercedarian Mothers 28 School of As Orfas 29 Church of San Miguel dos Agros 30 Church of Santa María do Camiño 31 Church of San Bieito do Campo 32 Convent of Santo Agostiño 33 San Clemente College 34 General Chapel of Ánimas 35 Chapel of Santiago 36 Church of El Pilar 37 The Collegiate Church of Santa María a Real de Sa

North Way / French Way

28 29 The North Way á gina 31 leave the shelter before 8 a.m. so that it can be leave the shelter before cleaned. It will be open for accommodation from 1 p.m. until 10 mobility arrives, one If any pilgrim with reduced the collaboration of those persons, can request accommodated after the shelter already who are to assist in his in order is filled to capacity, accommodation in the establishment. pilgrims and other travellers have a However, range of alternative accommodation options. and municipal a number of religious are There also serving the pilgrim, especially during centres times a wide-range of busier periods. In recent modern hotels and rural tourism establishments which routes up along the different has cropped have added to the diversity of services and toattractions be found along the Way. NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:25 P ) in € á gina 30 Starting 01 January 2008, in order to gain access the Starting 01 January 2008, in order shelters, pilgrims must buy a shelter voucher (3 each one, which is only authorised for use in the and on the date procured establishments that were It will not be of the voucher. that appears on the front may You valid on any other date or in shelter. only stay one night in each shelter except the Monte both in Santiago de do Gozo and San Lázaro, Compostela. The number of pilgrims that will be accommodated each day will be limited to the of available beds in each establishment. The order priority is always the same: Pilgrims who travel by foot, on horseback, bicycle and those with an escort vehicle. it is very important to Once the voucher is acquired, If not, the shelter keep it until you leave the shelter. must You can ask the pilgrim to vacate premises. Pilgrim’s hostels

From left to right, the pilgrim’s hostels at left to right, the pilgrim’s From Vilalba and Sobrado Ribadeo, Lourenzá, NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:25 P NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:25 Página 32 NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:25 Página 33

7. Sobrado dos Monxes 1. Ribadeo 8. Arzúa 2. Vilanova de Lourenzá 9. Santa Irene 3. Mondoñedo 10. O Pino 4. Gontán 11. Monte do Gozo 5. Vilalba 12. San Lázaro 6. Baamonde

Pilgrims’ hostels Information on the Way

Gontán Arzúa Rehabilitated building Rehabilitated traditional Gontán, Abadín town house* 26 beds Cima do Lugar, 6. Arzúa Distance from next hostel: 22 km 48 beds (Vilalba) 10 parking spaces for bicycles Distance from next hostel: 17 km Vilalba (Santa Irene, O Pino) Newly constructed building* Polígono industrial de Vilalba. Santa Irene Zona de la Cruz Roja. Vilalba Rehabilitated country house* 48 beds Santa Irene. Arca. O Pino 10 parking spaces for bicycles 36 beds Distance from next hostel: 18 km 5 parking spaces for bicycles (Baamonde, ) Distance from next hostel: 4 km (Arca, O Pino) Baamonde Rehabilitated house* O Pino Carretera Terra Chá, 9. Newly constructed building* Baamonde. Begonte Pedrouzo. Arca. O Pino 94 beds 126 beds Parking spaces for bicycles Distance from next hostel: 15 km Distance from next hostel: 41 km (Monte do Gozo, (Sobrado dos Monxes) Santiago de Compostela) Monte do Gozo Sobrado dos Monxes Newly constructed complex* Interior of the refuge of Baamonde Rehabilitated areas of the Monte do Gozo. “Casa das audiencias” in the Santiago de Compostela Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes* Ribadeo Vilanova de Lourenzá Mondoñedo 400 beds (800, Holy Year) Monasterio de Sobrado dos Rehabilitated building* Rehabilitated building* Rehabilitated sacristy of the 100 parking spaces for bicycles O Cargadeiro recreation area. Campo da Feira, 15. Chapel of the Venerable Orden Monxes. C/ Convento, s/n. Ribadeo Vilanova de Lourenzá Tercera de San Francisco* Sobrado dos Monxes San Lázaro (pilgrim’s hostel) 12 beds 20 beds San Pedro de Alcántara, s/n. 66 beds Purpose built construction* 8 parking spaces for bicycles 5 parking spaces for bicycles Mondoñedo Distance from next hostel: San Lázaro, s/n Distance from next hostel: 30 km Distance from next hostel: 8 km 28 beds 23 km (Arzúa) Santiago de Compostela (Vilanova de Lourenzá) (Mondoñedo) 5 parking spaces for bicycles 80 beds Distance from next hostel: Parking for bicycles 17 km (Gontán, Abadín) * Accommodation with disabled and special needs facilities.

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Services Town Councils Emergency Service

Ribadeo Vilalba Arzúa Medical emergencies Pza. de España, 1 Pza. da Constitución, 1 Rúa Santiago, 2 061 Tel.: +34 982-120701 Tel.: +34 982-510305 Tel.: +34 981-500000 Fax: +34 982-130975 Fax: +34 982-511815 Fax: +34 981-500914 Emergencies [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] (general, free of and international) www.ribadeo.org www.vilalba.org www.concellodearzua.org 112

Barreiros Guitiriz O Pino Xacobeo Information Rúa Vila, 63. Rúa do Concello, 4 Pedrouzo, s/n. Arca San Cosme de Barreiros Tel.: +34 982-370109 Tel.: +34 981-511002 Tel.: +34 982-124002 Fax: +34 982-372178 Fax: +34 981-511123 Information Office in Santiago Fax: +34 982-124110 [email protected] [email protected] Tel.: +34 902-332010 [email protected] www.concellodeopino.com Rúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground floor Begonte [email protected] Trabada Pza. dos Irmáns Souto-Montenegro, 1 Santiago de Compostela Rúa do Concello, 15 Tel.: +34 982-396143 Pza. do Obradoiro, s/n www.xacobeo.es Tel.: +34 982-135011 Fax: +34 982-396155 Pazo de Raxoi Fax: +34 982-135257 [email protected] Tel.: +34 981-542300 Fax: +34 981-563864 Rural Tourism Vilanova de Lourenzá Friol [email protected] Central Reservations Office Pza. do Conde Santo, s/n Pza. de España, 1 www.santiagodecompostela.org Tel.: +34 982-121006 Tel.: +34 982-375001 Tel.: +34 902-200432 Fax: +34 982-121506 Fax: +34 982-375206 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.lugonet.com/friol Mondoñedo Tourist Information Office Pza. do Concello, 1 Sobrado dos Monxes Ribadeo Tel.: +34 982-524003 Pza. Portal, 1 Rúa Dionisio Gamallo Fierros, s/n Fax: +34 982-507421 Tel.: +34 981-787508 Tel.: +34 982-128689 [email protected] Fax: +34 981-787577 www.mondonedo.com [email protected] Lugo www.sobrado-es.com Pza. Maior, 27-29 Abadín Tel.: +34 982-231361 Xeneral Franco, 29 Boimorto Tel.: +34 982-508021 Vilanova, 1 A Coruña Fax: +34 982-508051 Tel.: +34 981-516020 Dársena da Mariña, s/n. [email protected] Fax: +34 981-516045 Tel.: +34 981-221822 [email protected] [email protected] Santiago de Compostela Rúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground floor Tel.: +34 981-584081

Turgalicia Tel.: +34 902-200432 Fax: +34 981-542510 www.turgalicia.es

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The Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago

The discovery of the Tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater at the beginning of the 9th century soon brought about a stream of travellers making the pilgrimage to the site, which is today the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela. This vast influx of pilgrims from all over Europe led to the creation of a network of itineraries, known collectively as the or the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago.

The heyday of the pilgrimages took place between the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries with the granting of specific spiritual . This trend, however, has endured to a greater or lesser extent over the course of the centuries. Since the mid 20th century the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has been experiencing an international rebirth, which combines its spiritual and socio-cultural tradition with its tourist appeal, and once again it has become a melting pot for all types of peoples and cultures.

Traditionally the Pilgrims’ Ways are at their busiest during the Holy Years, held at intervals of 6, 5, 6, and 11 years, but any time is ideal for following the Way towards its ultimate goal: the city of Santiago de Compostela.

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The Pilgrims’ Way in Europe

Throughout its twelve hundred year history, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has given rise to an extraordinary spiritual, cultural and social vitality. Thanks to the existence of the Way, the first network of assistance in Europe came into being and monasteries, and new urban centres were founded.

A new culture was born from the convergence of peoples of diverse backgrounds, based on the free exchange of ideas, artistic and social trends, in addition to a socio-economic driving force which boosted the development of a number of areas in Europe, especially during the Middle Ages. The mark left by the Way and by the pilgrims on the city of Santiago de Compostela can be clearly seen from an endless number of public and private testimonies, in the different art forms, and also, for example, in the publication of over one thousand books worldwide, which in recent decades have extolled the virtues of this Way, a work of art and the heritage of all Europeans.

The main routes of the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago were declared the First European Cultural Itinerary(1987) by the and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in the stretches travelling across Spain and France (1993 and 1998, respectively). In 2004 it also received the Prince of Asturias Award for Harmony from the Prince of Asturias Foundation. NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:26 Página 40 NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:27 Página 41

Galicia, the land of Saint James French Way Southeast Way– According to ancient legend, the Iberian Peninsula Vía da Prata formed part of the lands where the Apostle Saint James Portuguese Way preached Christianity. After he was beheaded in 44 AD, Route of the Sea of Arousa tradition says that his disciples took the body of the and the River saint by boat to Galicia, one of the Spanish lands -Muxía Way he preached in. Northern Way The difficult times during the early years of Christianity Original Way and the fact that most of the northern part of the peninsula was sparsely populated would have meant that the exact location of the burial site would have fallen into oblivion. However, around the year 820 remains were found which were attributed by the ecclesiastic and civil authorities to be those of Saint James the Greater. This event, which took place in remote Galician woodland, would give rise to the founding of the present day city of Santiago de Compostela.

Santiago became the attractive goal of a pilgrimage that would, over the centuries, lead pilgrims from all walks of life and via the most diverse itineraries, to the tomb of the only apostle of , along with Saint Peter in Rome, The Galician Ways who is buried on European soil. The diverse origins of these pilgrims gave rise to a total of six European ways leading to Galicia.

The busiest and most important itinerary from a socio-economic, artistic and cultural view, is the route known as the French Way, which enters Spain across the and Galicia via the mythical hills of O Cebreiro.

However, there are five other itineraries that have also earned a place for themselves in the history of the pilgrimages to Santiago.

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Cape Fisterra. The Fisterra-Muxía Way They are the Original and North Ways, There are two other routes whose of great importance in the early pilgrimage symbolism is believed to be closely days, with two major routes that enter linked to the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago: Galicia via Asturias, from the Basque the Fisterra-Muxía Way, used by a Country and Cantabria; the English Way, number of medieval pilgrims, who after followed particularly by pilgrims, worshipping at the tomb of the apostle, who from northern Europe and the British were enticed to undertake the journey Isles arrived at ports such as A Coruña to , the westernmost and ; , which point on earth known at the time; was used by pilgrims travelling from and the route known as the Route of up through Galicia’s south- the Sea of Arousa and the River Ulla, western region; and the Southeast Way, recalling the itinerary, which according used by pilgrims who, on their way to tradition, was taken by the boat to Santiago from the south and centre bearing the mortal remains of the of the Peninsula, followed the popular Apostle to Galicia (1st century). Vía de la Plata, between Mérida and Astorga, continuing on into the territory of to Santiago de Compostela.

O Cebreiro. The French Way Oseira. The South East Way –The Silver Way “Compostela” and credential A Coruña. The English Way

43 The North Way