S1.00 Garment Labels: ^ -,-- OREGON STATE UNWWSTTY The Consumer's e^ EXTENSION S6RV1C6 Information Source A. W. Koester

labels provide important informa- Ltion to help the consumer make decisions about purchasing textile products. It is the This publication is one of a set consumer's responsibility to look for, read, and use the label information. Some labels written to help consumers select are required by law to appear on textile DATE. products. These include fiber content labels, and care for today's clothing. which are intended to protect the consumer Three of the publications—fibers from mislabeled textile products in the store; care labels, which tell the consumer how to OF and fabrics; information found maintain textile wearing apparel; and flammability labels, which explain federal on garment labels; and dyeing regulations for flame retardancy. There are also voluntary labels, which may and colorfastness—aid consum- include textile manufacturers' logos, union ers in evaluating clothing and names, warranties and certifications,OUT and sizes. household textiles. Those on IS laundry aids and laundry Required labels Fiber content labels. Fiber content labels detergents and soaps help are required by the Textile Fiber Products * TODAY'S CLOTHING CARE Identification Act (TFPIA) of 1960, amended consumers choose effective care. Labels must state the percentage, in in 1985. Their purpose is to protect the order of predominance by weight, of each consumer from misleading advertising and cleaning products. The publica- fiber making up 5 percent or more of the total mislabeling of fiber content on any textile information:fabric weight. Usually at least 15 percent is tion on professional clothing products, whether made in the U.S.A. or needed for a fiber to make a performance imported from a foreign country. Fiber care services discusses working difference in a blend; however, as little as 3 content labels must be attached to the percent spandex will give elasticity to fabric. product at the point of purchase but do not with a dry cleaner. Fibers that comprise less than 5 percent of need to remain permanently attached. the total weight cannot be named but must be The TFPIA requires that fiber content listed as "other" fibers, unless they have a labels contain the following information: current clearly stated functional purpose. Sometimes • identification of the fiber(s) by generic small percentages of fibers like silk and PUBLICATIONname (the name of the family of cashmere are listed on the label to make fibers with similar chemical composi- clothing seem superior. tion or origin); Labels on garments with sections, such • the percentage of each kind of fiber as linings, must provide the fiber composition most in the product; of each section. If a garment has two or more • the manufacturer (by name or RN, parts (skirt and jacket) or is marketed in pairs THIS registered number); and (pajamas) the fiber content may be listed on • the country in which the item was one label. For processed and manufactured, whether Piece goods are labeled on the end of the it was produced in the U.S.A. or in bolt or on a tag attached to the bolt. a foreign country. Manufacturers and importers of piece goods http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalogIdentification and percentage of fiber. Knowing the generic fiber content allows the consumer to make choices based on Ardis W. Koester, Extension textiles and clothing EC 1279 expected comfort, durability, and ease of specialist, Oregon State University. Reprinted May 1993 TODAY'S CLOTHING CARE

are required to list the fiber content or the United States from U.S.-made materials include a label stating the piece goods are must be labeled "Made in U.S.A." Each remnants of undetermined fiber content. product made partially in the U.S. and Retailers must display a conspicuous sign if partially in a foreign country must be labeled piece goods are remnants of undetermined to disclose the manufacturing process for fiber content. each country,DATE. i.e. "Made in (foreign country), Fiber manufacturers may give trade names finished in U.S.A." Mail order catalogs for advertising and product differentiation of advertising textile items must include the the fibers they produce. Trade names are country of origin in the description of each optional on labels, but generic names must OFitem. accompany the trade name; both must be in Wool product labels. The Wool Products the same size print and in English. Labeling Act (WPL) was passed in 1939 and amended in 1980. Its purpose is to protect . Manufacturer or registered number. consumers from the unrevealed presence of The manufacturer's name, a trade name or substitutes and mixtures in wool products. word trademark registered in theOUT U.S. Patent The WPL includes the following definitions of Office, or a registered identification number terms: (RN) of the manufacturer or distributor must Wool means the fiber from the fleece of the appear on the label. The RNIS is issued by the sheep or lamb, or hair of the Angora or Federal Trade Commission. Consumers can Cashmere goat (and may include the so-called learn the name of the manufacturer specialty fibers from the hair of the camel, represented by the RN number by phoning alpaca, llama, and vicuna) that has never been the Federal Trade Commission in Los reclaimed from any woven or felted wool Angeles, CA at (213) 209-7890. product. The specialty fibers may be Country of origin. In 1985 the TFPIA identified by their own name. was amended to requireinformation: that all textile, wool, Recycled wool includes fibers recovered and fur products carry labels naming the from previously manufactured cloth. This can country of origin and identifying American- be both reprocessed wool that has not been produced goods. The legislation came in used by consumers and re-used wool. The response to the recent increase in textile recycling process breaks the wool fibers into imports from countries where labor costs are shorter lengths so the resulting fabric is less than in the U.S. American producers weaker. Often manufecturers blend recycled believe American consumers would be willing wool with stronger manufactured fibers like currentto pay more if they knew the clothing and nylon or acrylic to increase the durability. PUBLICATIONtextile products were produced with Recycled wool is sometimes found in American labor. The regulations include the lower-priced, heavyweight winter coats. following points: The WPL also requires the name of the Each imported product must be labeled manufacturer or an identification number. with the name of the country where it was The identification number may be found on most processed or manufactured, i.e. "Made in the label as a WPL number. Consumers may THIS (foreign country)." Each product produced in also phone the Federal Trade Commission in Los Angeles to learn the name of the manufacturer represented by the WPL For number. http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog Fur product labels. The Fur Product Manufacturers must have a reasonable Labeling Act of 1951 requires labels for basis, determined by testing, for the care protection from misbranding and false instruction. If the method of care is important advertising of fur products. The labels should to the life of the garment, full instructions include the species of the animal; the country must be included on the label. The of origin; whether the paws, tails, or reused manufacturerDATE. needs to list only one method fur were included; if the fur was dyed, of safe care, no matter how many other safe colored, or bleached; and the manufacturer, methods there are. The manufacturer is not by name or registered number. required to warn consumers about other Permanent care labels. Permanent care OFmethods that may not be safe. labels are required by the Federal Trade Labels give care instructions for machine Commission in a ruling passed in 1972 and washing, hand washing, or dry cleaning. They revised in 1983, effective in 1984. The rule, are based on a warning system; that is, if the which covers textile wearing apparel and consumer can use the harshest cleaning certain textile piece goods, requires the method, other methods are not specified. For manufacturer or importer to provideOUT example, if a label reads "Machine wash, permanent instructions for regular care tumble dry," the consumer can use water up during ordinary use of the ISgarment. The to 150° F and the hottest setting on the dryer. labels also must be visible or easily found at The same logic applies to bleaches. If the the point of purchase. consumer can safely use all bleaches Included under the rule are items of textile regularly on a machine washable garment, fabrics used to cover or protect the body. then the label does not have to mention Excluded are non-textile products such as bleaches. If no bleach is safe, then the label leather, suede, fur, and several classes of must state "No bleach." If nonchlorine merchandise. The exclusions include bleaches are safe, then the label should say disposable items; householdinformation: textiles such as "Use only nonchlorine bleach, when needed." upholstery, draperies, and carpets; remnants "Dryclean" means the garment can be cut and shipped by the manufacturer; items cleaned by any full, normal process of solvent for commercial use by institutional buyers; cleaning, drying, and finishing. If not, the items costing under $3; and special apparel recommended solvent should be listed. If any such as sheer lingerie and reversible regular dry cleaning procedures, such as garments. steam pressing, are harmful, labels should Under the 1984 revision, manufacturers of warn against them. piececurrent goods must provide care information If a garment will be harmed by all cleaning PUBLICATIONonly on the end of each bolt or roll or on the methods, the label must warn both the selvage of a fabric. The manufacturer or consumer and the drycleaner. The label retailer does not have to provide the should state specifically "Do not wash—do consumer with a label or tag listing care not dryclean." The consumer or drycleaner most instructions. It is the consumer's may be able to clean the garment only by responsibility to ask for the correct label or vacuuming. THIS tag. Also, manufacturer's remnants up to 10 If the consumer follows the care yards long do not require care labels if the instructions on the label and the garment fiber content is not known. If the retailer shrinks, the color bleeds, or the fabric For creates the remnant, he or she must provide performs poorly, the manufacturer is http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalogcare information to the consumer. responsible. The consumer has a right to TODAY'S CLOTHING CARE

return the garment to the retailer or to the Flammability labels. Mattresses and manufacturer. If the problem is not resolved mattress pads, carpets and rugs, and satisfactorily, consumers should notify the children's sleepwear in sizes 0—6X and Federal Trade Commission (FTC), Enforce- 7—14 must have special labels and must ment Division, Washington, D.C. 20580. The meet the Consumer Product Safety FTC cannot resolve problems between CommissionDATE. Code of Federal Regulations. consumers and manufacturers, but they need Each children's sleepwear garment is to know the types of trade practices requiring required to have a Garment Production Unit action or revision in the rule. (GPU) number and a Fabric Production Unit International care labeling. As inter- OF(FPU) number. national trade increases, some foreign Manufacturers of children's sleepwear are manufacturers use a system of symbols to required to test the fabric and components to bridge the language barrier. When clothing is meet the regulations. In addition, they must imported to be sold in the United States it to keep records throughout the process of must have labels written in English, but manufacture from fabric to the sale of the symbols may also accompany theOUT words. It is garment. The records include all test data, difficult to check all imports, and consumers fiber content, and garment specifications; an who shop while traveling ISoutside the U.S. untested garment from each style; and may encounter some International Care production records, quantities, and dates of Symbols. Each country may have its own sale and delivery. These records are held for guidelines. 3 years. The basic international care symbols are: Flame-resistant fabrics are not flameproof. • a three sided tub, symbolizing washing; Under certain conditions, they will still bum, • a triangle, symbolizing bleaching; but generally they ignite with difficulty, bum • a square, symbolizing drying; slowly, and self-extinguish when the source • a circle, symbolizinginformation: drycleaning; and of heat and flame are removed. • an iron. Care labels must also warn against There are variations of the symbols treatment that can cause deterioration of the included in the full chart of symbols and flame-resistant finish. The labels provide The basic international care symbols. The temperature conditions. Color may be part special care instructions. Piece goods three-sided tub indicates tvashing; the of the system, with red meaning "do not intended for children's sleepwear are labeled triangle, bleaching; the square, drying; the carry out this procedure," amber meaning on the fabric bolt as "flame resistant—safe for circle, drycleaning; and the iron, pressing. "use caution," and green meaning "no special children's sleepwear." Often cotton flannel- See the Extension publication on currentprecaution is needed." An "X" through a ettes and other flammable fabrics of similar international clothing care symbolsPUBLICATION for the symbol means "do not use this procedure." weight and texture are labeled "not suitable complete set, including colors and for children's sleepwear." variations. most THIS For http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog Voluntary labels Cotton logo and Cotton Natural In addition to the required labels, some Blend symbol. The cotton logo identifies manufacturers voluntarily provide additional and promotes 100 percent cotton products information to help consumers make made in the United States of U.S.-grown satisfactory purchases. These labels also upland cotton, a variety of cotton grown by help promotion and product differentiation. the majorityDATE. of American producers. The logo is a registered trademark of Cotton PURE WOOL Consumers should use all available The sewn-in Woohnark MM information when making decisions related to Incorporated, the research and marketing Is your assurance of quality- company that represents American cotton tested fabrics made of the the selection, use, and care of textile world's best... Pure Wool. products. OFproducers. The Natural Blend trademark Crafted With Pride. The Crafted With indicates products that contain at least 60 Pride in U.S.A. Council was formed in 1984 percent U.S. upland cotton. to promote and encourage the purchase of Dimensional stability labels and American manufactured textile products and terms. Some, but not all, fabrics shrink or instill pride in American workmanship.OUT Their stretch out of shape during use and care. "Crafted With Pride in the U.S.A." logo Generally, fabric blends that contain WOOL BLEND manufactured fibers will be less likely to The sewn-in Woolblend Mark appears on many hang tags. label is your assurance of qual- Union labels. Union labelsIS indicate the shrink than 100 percent cotton, linen, ramie, ity-tested fabrics made pre- or wool. Fabrics that contain 100 percent dominantly of wool. garment was sewn in the United States by members of the Amalgamated Clothing manufactured fibers tend to be heat sensitive Workers of America, International Ladies and may shrink if subject to high Garment Workers Union of America, or the temperatures in the dryer. United Garment Workers of America. In On labels, consumers will find terms to The Woolmark and Woolblend symbols. general, union members have better pay and describe the ability of a textile to maintain its The Woolmark symbol appears only on working conditions than non-union workers in dimensions without stretching or shrinking products that are 100 percent wool. The information:during use and care. Two of the basic terms Woolblend mark appears on products that the garment industry. Woolmark and Woolblend symbols. and their meanings are: contain a minimum of 60 percent tvool. Preshrunk. The fabric has been These labels are produced by the Wool The Woolmark symbol appears only on Bureau and appear on fiber content labels products that are 100 percent wool. The prewashed; however, this does not tell you or hang tags. Woolblend mark is for products that contain a how much more the product will shrink minimum of 60 percent pure wool; the other during use and care. 40 percent may be either natural or Prewashed. The fabric is not likely to manufacturedcurrent fibers. These labels are a shrink when washed. It is sometimes used on PUBLICATIONpromotional device sponsored by The Wool denim to mean that it will fade less because of Bureau, an international trade association. bleeding during the first wash. These symbols appear on fiber content labels Several companies have brand names for or hang tags. garments that have been treated and meet company standards for shrinkage. These most registered trademarks include Sanforized, THIS Sanforknit, Sanforset, and Rigmel. For http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog 6 TODAY'S CLOTHING CARE

Warranty and certification labels. A garment dimension. Style, fit, and fashion warranty means a product will be replaced if it trends constantly change the relationship performs unsatisfactorily. Each company between the body and actual garment writes the restrictions for its own warranty dimensions. program, so the consumer must read the Brand labels. Brands are names, details of each one carefully. trademarks,DATE. or graphic logos created to A Monsanto Wear Dated Warranty means identify products from a specific source, and the fiber producer warranties the product to make the product different from that of the with this label for a stated period of time, competition. The source of a brand may be a assuming that care label instructions are OFmanufacturer, a designer, a store, or an followed. For apparel, the Wear Dated importer. warranty is 1 year; for upholstery fabrics it is Recently licensing of designers' names has 2 years; and for carpet fibers it is 5 years. become a popular form of brand labeling. In a The Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval licensing agreement, manufacturers are given is given to certain products testedOUT under permission to produce and market conditions determined by the Good merchandise in the name of the licensor. The Housekeeping laboratory and advertised in licensor is then paid a percentage of sales. their magazine. IS Many well-known clothing designers license Size labels. Clothing sizes in the U.S. are their names to a wide variety of products, not standardized. Men's sizes are based on ranging from perfumes to luggage. body measurements, but the amount of ease Stores may use private brand labels. allowed varies with the designer and Although the store does not manufacture the manufacturer. The size numbers in men's item, they write the specifications the sizes refer to the body measurements. In manufacturer will use including design, fabric, women's sizes there are no standardized color, and sizes. The manufacturer may charts of women's bodyinformation: measurements or exclusively make private brands or may use women's sizes based on those measure- the manufacturing of private brands to fill in ments. This lack of standardization causes between manufacturing seasons. Private frustration for consumers and a high rate of brands are the store's way of giving the returns for mail order companies. customer of a store an exclusive product, Currently, the American Society for meeting price competition, and promoting Testing and Materials (ASTM) is developing the store. currenttables of standardized body dimensions on Bar code. The apparel manufacturing which sizes may be based for infants, industry has accepted the Universal Product PUBLICATIONchildren, men, and women. Many companies, Code standard, which is system of lines and especially mail order and pattern companies, numbers that can be read by an optical have tables of body measurements they use scanner. The purposes of the bar code are to in developing garments. Consumers should increase accuracy, make recordkeeping most use these tables when they are available. The quicker and easier, and get desired products tables indicate the size of the body for which to the consumer more quickly. THIS the garment was designed, not the actual For http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog For more information Oregon State University Extension Consumer Affairs Committee of the Service publications. In July 1992 the American Apparel Manufacturers' Associa- OSU Extension Service publications ware- tion (1987). The Labeling Book. Arlington, house was destroyed by fire. We are re- VA. placing our supplies. The publications list- Federal Trade Commission. (1986). ed belowDATE. may be available in the office of Questions and answers relating to the the OSU Extension Service that serves Textile Fiber Products Identification Act your county. Check with that office for and Regulations. Washington, DC. current prices. Federal Trade Commission. (1985). Rules OF and regulations under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, revised April 17, You also may call Agricultural Communi- 1985. Washington, DC. cations at Oregon State University, (503) Federal Trade Commission. (1984). What's 737-2513, to leam the availability and cur- new about care labels. Washington,OUT DC: rent price of the publications. U.S. Government Printing Office. RN& WPL Encyclopedia. (1988). New York: EC 1280, Dyeing and Colorfastness in Salesmens' Guide Inc. IS Fabrics. SI.00 Stone, J. (1985). Look to the Label (Pm 733). Ames, Iowa: Cooperative Extension EC 1281, Fibers and Fabrics Update. 750 Service, Iowa State University. EC 1282, Professional Clothing Care Services. 750 EC 1283, Laundry Detergents and Soaps. SI.00 information:EC 1284, Selecting and Using Laundry Aids. 750 PNW 284, International Clothing Care Symbols. 250

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PUBLICATIONcurrent most THIS For Extension Service, Oregon State University, Corvallis, O.E. Smith, director. This publication was produced and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30,1914. Extension work is a cooperative program http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalogof Oregon State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Oregon counties. Oregon State University Extension Service offers educational programs, activities, and materials without regard to race, color, national origin, sex, age, or disability as required by Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972, and Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973. Oregon State University Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity Employer.