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Consumers' Buying Practices, Uses, and Preferences For in Retail Piece t • •

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U.S. Department of Agriculture Marketing Research Economic Research Service Report No. 1013

Historic, archived document

Do not assume content reflects current scientific knowledge, policies, or practices.

Consumers' Buying Practices, Uses, and Preferences For Fibers in Retail Piece

U.S. Department of Agriculture Marketing Research Economic Research Service Report No.1013

ABSTRACT

Buyers of retail piece goods said in a nationwide telephone survey they preferred fabrics made with permanent press finish, knit construction, and because they are easy to care for and need little or no ironing. Purpose of the sample survey was to examine attitudes that affect purchasers' selection and use of materials made from agricultural products or synthetic fibers. Areas explored included preference for woven, knit or fabric, preference for fabric with or without permanent press finish, sewing habits, type of store in which material is normally purchased, awareness of and experience with washable , and reaction to a new permanent press concept.

Keywords: Consumer research, , Synthetic fibers, Retail piece goods, Fiber blends, , Wool. .

PREFACE

The information herein originated as one of a group of studies conducted by the Sample Surveys Research Branch, Research Division, Statistical Reporting Service (SRS), U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), to determine consumer reactions to agricultural products.

This telephone survey was designed mainly to provide in- sights into what natural fiber producers might do to market their commodity more effectively and to provide guidelines for product improvement research.

The study was planned under the general direction of Margaret Weidenhamer, SRS. Additional advise was provided in the planning stage by subject matter specialists in USDA, The National Cotton Council of America, Cotton Incorporated, and The Wool Bureau, Inc. Under contract with USDA, Market Facts, Inc., designed the sample, developed the questionnaire, and collected the data.

On April 29, 1973, the Market Research Section of the Sample Surveys Research Branch was transferred to USDA's Economic Research Service. Hence, the final report was prepared under the auspices of Consumer Surveys, National Economic Analysis Division, ERS

Use of store names in this publication is for identification only and does not imply endorse- ment by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

1 i CONTENTS

Page HIGHLIGHTS ...... iv

INTRODUCTION 1

GENERAL BUYING HABITS 3

USE MADE OF FABRIC PURCHASED 5

RELATED SEWING HABITS ...... 18

REACTION TO WASHABLE WOOL ...... 19

REACTION TO PERMANENT PRESS FINISH 19

CHARACTERISTICS RELATED TO SELECTED FIBERS 20

FIBERS LOOKED FOR AND DIFFICULTY FINDING THEM 21

CHARACTERISTICS OF FABRIC BUYERS .... 21

COMPARISON OF BUYER HOUSEHOLDS WITH NON BUYER HOUSEHOLDS . 22

APPENDIX 23 Sample Design 23 Sampling Method 23 Sampling Tolerances 25 Explanation of Survey Questionnaire 25 Analysis of Positional Bias 26 Explanation of Tables 26 Tables 27 Questionnaire 65

Washington, D.C. 20250 February 1974 in HIGHLIGHTS

Fabrics with permanent press finish, knit construction, and polyester fibers were the most popular among piece goods buyers in a nationwide telephone survey. Such fabrics were preferred mainly because they are easy to care for and launder and require little or no ironing.

Sixty-one percent of the more than 1,500 respondents who had purchased fabric by the piece or yard during June 1971-June 1972 said they bought most of it in a fabric store. Twenty-five per- cent mentioned a department store and 18 percent named a chain store. Nearly 80 percent reported they checked before buying to determine fiber content.

Selecting from a list of descriptive phrases, most respondents associated variety of colors, patterns, designs; can be worn during several seasons; easy to sew or work with; and washability with blends of polyester and cotton, 100-percent polyester, and 100-percent cotton. More of the respondents associated absorbing moisture, wrinkling easily, and requiring ironing with cotton rather than with the other fibers.

The study — designed to survey the attitudes of purchasers of retail piece goods that affect their selection and use of materials made from agricultural products or synthetic fibers — revealed that about 9 in 10 had bought fabric for spring or summer clothing and 6 in 10 for fall or winter wear. Only 4 in 10 reported buying fabric for use for nonclothing items.

Most of the fabric went into clothing for females for general everyday wear, and more dresses were made than any other clothing article. Discussing the last piece of fabric purchased for clothing for each set of seasons, 7 in 10 said they bought the pattern before the fabric. Comfort and ease of care and launder- ing were mentioned by most respondents who intended to buy 100- percent cotton fabric for spring or summer clothing. Warmth was the primary reason for intent to buy wool fabric for fall or winter clothing.

Eighty percent or more of the respondents said wrinkle resistance; good value for the money; and colors, patterns, and designs had "a lot" of influence on their decision to buy a particular type of fabric to be used for clothing, regardless of season. About 90 percent of the respondents indicated washability was a major consideration in buying fabric for spring or summer wear. The way the fabric was made, such as knit or woven, was mentioned by about 80 percent for fall or winter wear.

Most buyers who had a particular type of fabric in mind when they went shopping said they bought what they intended to buy. The rest bought primarily on impuls e-- they saw something they liked and bought it.

IV CONSUMERS' BUYING PRACTICES, USES, AND PREFERENCES

FOR FIBERS IN RETAIL PIECE GOODS

By

Evelyn F. Kaitz and Thomas M. Stack 1/

INTRODUCTION

Manmade fibers and blends have been gradually cutting into natural fibers' share of the market in recent years. The main objective of this survey was to study the attitudes of purchasers of retail piece goods that affect their selection and use of materials made from agricultural products or synthetic fibers. Also surveyed were preferences for woven, knit, or pile fabric; preferences for fabric with or without permanent press finish; sewing habits; type of store in which material or fabric is usually purchased; awareness of and experience with washable wool; and reaction to a new permanent press concept.

The survey was conducted by telephone during June 1972 with a probability sample of purchasers of retail piece goods. These buyers represent a cross section of private households with a telephone directory listing in urban and rural areas throughout the United States, excluding Alaska and Hawaii.

Screening questions were used to identify eligible respond- ents, who were defined as persons who during June 1971-June 1972 had purchased any fabric or material that is sold by the piece or yard. This definition permitted a few male respondents to be included in the study.

A total of 3,442 telephone contacts were made. Telephone interviews were completed with 1,527 eligible respondents. Demographic data only were obtained from one individual in each of 1,858 nonbuyer households. At least four callbacks— either during different times of the same day or on different days— were made to complete screening of designated households and to complete an interview with each eligible respondent. However, no more than two eligible respondents were interviewed within a household. A complete description of the sampling procedure used in this survey is presented in the appendix.

As in all surveys in which a sample is interviewed rather than the total population, the findings are subject to sampling

1_/ Mrs. Kaitz is a Social Science Analyst with Economic Research Service; Mr. Stack is with Market Facts, Inc. . . errors. The sample design, sampling method, and approximate con- fidence limits for percentages generated by this study are shown in the appendix.

The f indings are presented as summaries of the statements made by t he respondents and are subject to errors of response, It i s e sp ecially important to keep this in mind in analyzing the data on f iber preference and stated purchase, since difficulties with f ibe r identification have some influence on the validity of the respo ndents' answers. Inadvertent misstatements by respond- en t s may occur because of oversights, lack of information, or conf usion about fiber content. There are many kinds of fibers and fiber blends on the market., and identification problems may ar i s e fro m the use of descriptive or brand names for a product, Furt hermo re, material made from blends may have been identified as o ne of the individual fibers. However, since this study was not int en ded to provide estimates of fiber consumption but rath er to collect data about opinions and attitudes buyers of piec e goo ds hold toward the various fibers, the statements were ac c e p t ed as given

The responses may reflect some error in recall since respond- ents were also indicating from memory the number of pieces of material purchased, the number of items other than clothing made or to be made, and the articles of clothing made or to be made from the last piece of material bought for spring, summer or fall winter. (Seasons were paired to facilitate questioning.) When- ever there is a reference to "type" of fabric or material, it includes: Fiber content; whether it was made with or without permanent press finish; and whether it was knit, woven,' or pile construct ion

Summary tabulations are included throughout the text. Multiple answers account for percentages adding to more than 100 percent and for subcategories adding to more than percentages shown for the entire category. Some percentages do not add to 100 and some subcategories do not equal the percentages for the entire category because only highlights are presented in the tables. The miscellaneous categories of information ("Other"), shown throughout the tabulations, are the merging of all the ideas or items which individually were mentioned by less than 2 percent of the respondents in reply to a particular question. Respondents were asked to indicate total annual household income before taxes, household composition (age and sex of all members), and their own educational level.

The report concentrates on those results that appeared to contribute most to an understanding of the buyers' opinions about the subject areas. As a result, responses to a few questions were not included. Throughout the report, the terms "respondent" and "buyer" are used interchangeably. The references in parentheses are to the numbered questions in the questionnaire and to the tables which summarize answers to the questionnaire. The tabulations and the questionnaire may be found in the appendix.

Demographic characteristics are discussed in the text when results are of particular interest. More comprehensive coverage is in the appendix tables. Findings by background characteristics are solely descriptive. The reader is cautioned against assign- ing any c ause-and-e f f ec t relationship to these results. Highly interrelated personal characteristics such as age, educational level, and household income are shown separately. Combining them would have resulted in an excessive number of separate groups with too few respondents in each. However, the inter- relationship among characteristics is shown in the appendix.

GENERAL BUYING HABITS

Type and Location of Store

Sixty-one percent of the respondents purchased most of their fabric in a fabric store, 25 percent mentioned a department store, and 18 percent indicated a chain store.

Younger respondents, those with higher education, and those from households with higher incomes were more apt to buy their fabric in a fabric store.

Residents of rural areas shopped at fabric stores less frequently than buyers living in metropolitan areas, but they shopped at department stores more frequently than other buyers. (Ques t ion la)

Fifty-four percent of the stores where fabric was usually bought were located in the city and 41 percent in suburban loca- tions. An insignificant number of respondents said they usually bought fabric in rural stores. (Question lb)

Reasons for Buying Fabric at Particular Type of Store

In discussing their reasons for shopping at fabric, depart- ment, or chain stores, "material carried by the store" was mentioned most frequently. This reason was given more frequently for fabric stores (70 percent) than for department (51 percent) or chain stores (48 percent). Se lee t ion--var ie t y and color- accounted for most of these responses.

Convenience of the store and price were the next most frequently mentioned reasons for shopping at a particular store. Price was mentioned more for chain stores and convenience was given more for department stores. (Question lc) The reasons for buying fabric at a particular store were also analyzed for the type of store and its city or suburban location. There were too few respondents shopping in rural stores to analyze their reasons. Convenience of the store was mentioned more frequently for both fabric and department stores located in the suburbs than for the same type of stores located in the city. (Summary of questions la, b, and c) Fiber Content Labeling

Almost 80 percent of the respondents said they checked the fiber content when buying any fabric. The tendency to check fiber content was greater among higher income groups, the better educated, and those aged 30 to 49. (Question 2a)

In discussing their reasons for checking the fiber content, respondents mentioned care and laundering reasons most frequently (65 percent). Generally, persons in the income group under $5,000, those who had not gra.duated from high school, and those in the 12-19 and 50-and-over age groups appeared to be less concerned with care and laundering than other buyers. The concern of buyers who checked fiber content for care and laundering reasons centered on whether the fabric was washable or required dry cleaning, whether it required ironing, and whether it would shrink.

The next largest group of respondents (37 percent) indicated they checked the fiber content to confirm what they were buying. For example, was the fabric a blend and, if so, what fibers were blended? Was it polyester or cotton? Was the fiber content as advert i sed ?

One-fourth of the respondents who checked fiber content did so because they were concerned with wearing performance. They wanted a fabric that would hold up. (Question 2b)

Almost 80 percent of the buyers who checked said they read the -end or attached label to determine the fiber content, 27 percent said they or looked at the fabric, and 14 percent sought help from salespeople. The tendency to read the bolt-end label increased with higher income and education. Respondents aged 50 and over relied more on feel or look of the fabric than did younger buyers. (Question 2c)

Eighty-four percent of the respondents said they were satisfied with labeling of fabric for fiber content. Among those who were not satisfied, 36 percent mentioned inadequate or incomplete care instructions. Twenty-six percent said that there was no labeling, 17 percent said that the fiber content informa- tion was inadequate, and 16 percent claimed that the label was not easy to see or the print was too small. In addition, 13 percent said that they needed more explicit or accurate informa- tion than was shown on the label, but did not specify what information was necessary. Number of Pieces of Fabric Purchased

Purchasers of fabric for spring or summer clothing averaged seven pieces, three pieces more than those buying fabric for fall or winter clothing. Respondents from larger households, those from households with children under 19, and those from households with an annual income over $7,500 purchased more pieces of fabric for spring and summer clothing than those from smaller, adult only, or lower income households. Proportionately, more of the buyers aged 12-19 bought between one and three pieces of fabric for each pair of seasons than the older respondents. (Questions 5 and 12)

USE MADE OF FABRIC PURCHASED

Items Made Other than Clothing

Forty-one percent of the respondents reported purchasing fabrics for items other than clothing. The average number of pieces purchased was three.

Among those who indicated that they had made items other than clothing, curtains predominated with 58 percent. Slipcovers were mentioned by 27 percent, and cushion covers by 15 percent. Bedspreads and tablecloths or placemats were each mentioned by about 1 in 10 of these respondents. The other items made by the respondents in this category were mentioned by less than 10 percent. Most of the respondents said that these individual nonclothing items had been made only once. (Question 4a)

A small group of respondents had not yet used the fabric purchased for nonclothing items. However, most of them planned to make curtains, slipcovers, or cushion covers.

Last Piece Purchased for Spring, Summer or Fall, Winter Clothing

When Fabric Was Purchased

Most buyers purchased fabric during the period they planned to use it. Eighty-nine percent buying fabric for spring or summer clothing purchased the last piece from March through August. Seventy-five percent of those buying fabric for fall or winter clothing bought the last piece from September through February. The reported months of purchase are shown on the following page: Spring , Fall , s umme r win t er

Perc ent

December-February 5 32 March-May 51 8 June-August 39 12 Sept ember -November 2 43 Not ascertained 3 5

Base (1,336) (920)

Clothing Articles Made

Age and Sex for Whom Made

Throughout the year, about 95 percent of the clothing made was for females. Regardless of season, the average age of the person for whom the clothing was made or intended was signifi- cantly higher among those whose total family income was under $5,000, those in one or two person households, or households with adults only. (Summary of questions 6c and 13c)

Articles Made and Use

The article made most was dresses. Forty percent made dresses (sundresses, shifts, and jumpers) for spring or summer and 33 percent for fall or winter. A wide range of other female clothing articles was also made, including blouses and tops, pantsuits and jumpsuits, shorts and hot pants, skirts, slacks, jackets, and suits. However, among those who bought fabric for spring or summer, none of these other clothing articles were made by more than 1 in 10 respondents. About 20 percent of the purchasers of spring or summer fabric said they had not made anything from the last piece bought by June 1972. Proportion- ately, more pantsuits or jumpsuits, slacks, and skirts were made for fall or winter wear than for spring or summer wear. About 1 in 10 respondents who bought fabric for fall or winter clothing had not yet made anything from the last piece purchased. Answers are shown on the following page to the questions about what was made from the last piece of fabric bought for each set of

seas ons : . Fall, Spring i summer winter

-Percent

Female clothing 78 84 Dress, sundress, shift, jumper 40 33

Blouse , top 9 7 Pantsuit, jumpsuit 9 18 Shorts, hot pants 6 Skirt, miniskirt, midiskirt 5 10 Separate slacks, pants, culottes 5 11 Long dress, long skirt 4 4 Coat, jacket, suit 3 9 Other female clothing 5 k Male clothing 3 3 Not yet used 19 13

Base (1,336) (920)

(Summary of questions 6b and 13b)

The largest propor t ion--about 3 in 10 respondent s--who had made clothing for each pair of seasons said it was for general everyday use. More formal wear accounted for about 20 percent of the clothing made for the two seasonal groupings. Sportswear accounted for 17 percent of the spring or summer clothing made but only 8 percent of the fall or winter clothing. More school clothing was made for fall or winter (14 percent) than for spring or summer (5 percent).

Uses for which the clothing articles were made are listed below:

Spring, Fall , summer winter

•Percent-

General wear, everyday, shopping,

day t ime , work 29 28 Dress, party, cocktail, formal,

evening, wedding 18 2 1 Play, sportswear, swim, tennis 17 8 Casual wear, lounging 16 14 Special occasion, graduation, church 8 7 School 5 14 Housedress, apron 2 Other 3 4

Base (1,077) (813) , ,

In general, the average age of females for whom pantsuits, jumpsuits, dresses, or blouses were made for spring or summer varied only slightly. However, more shorts or hot pants were made for younger people, as shown below:

Pant suit Hot pant s Blouse , Age j umpsui t Dress s tior t s top

rercenu—

Under 13 13 11 19 5 13-18 13 15 38 35 19-29 23 22 19 15 30-49 35 24 20 27 50 and over 15 26 4 17 No response 1 2 1

Average 31. 57 33 . 29 22 . 91 29.99 Base 117 528 81 123

The average age of females for whom pantsuits, jumpsuits, and dresses were made for fall or winter was about the same. Slacks and culottes were more likely to be made for girlsunder 13 than the other types of clothing. More than one-third of the skirts were made for 13- to 18-year-olds, as shown below:

Pant t Slacks sui , ,

Age j umpsui t Dres s culottes Skirts

Percent

Under 13 14 9 19 11 13-18 10 16 18 36 19-29 2 8 20 23 18 30-49 29 28 28 26 5 and over 18 23 12 7 No response 1 4

Number'

Average 31.88 33.49 28.55 26.18 Ba se 166 299 102 93 Clothing Items to be Made

Age and Sex for Whom Will be Made

More than 90 percent of the clothing still to be made from the last piece of fabric purchased, regardless of season, was intended for females. The average age of the persons for whom the respondents said the clothing would be made was higher than the average age of those for whom clothing had already been made.

Articles to be Made and Use

Dresses account for the largest proportion of articles to be made for all seasons — 49 percent for spring or summer and 40 percent for fall or winter. The following tabulation summarizes, by the paired seasons, the clothing to be made:

Spring 9 Fall, s ummer winter

Perc ent

Female clothing 92 90 Dress, sundress, shift, jumper 49 40 Pantsuit, jumpsuit 11 17

Blouse, top 1 J 7 Separate slacks, pants, culottes 7 12 Shorts, hot pants 7 Skirt, miniskirt, midiskirt 4 5 Suit 2 13 Long dress, long skirt 2 2 Coat, jacket, cape, stole 2 7 Other female clothing 4 2 Male clothing 5 3 Not ascertained 3 k

Base (310) (136)

The use patterns for the clothing to be made are similar to those for articles already made. General and casual wear were mentioned most often. Seventeen percent of the fabric bought for spring and summer was intended for sportswear, compared with 7 percent for fall or winter. The following summary tabulation reports respondents' answers for the intended use of the articles of clothing to be made: . ,

Spring F,ail, s umme r win t er

Per c ent-

General wear, everyday, shopping,

day t ime , work 30 29 Casual wear, lounging 21 21 Play, sportswear, swim, tennis 17 7 Dress, party, cocktail, formal, evening, wedding 14 19 Special occasion, graduation, church 6 r School 2 10 Other 5 5 Not ascertained 4 7

ias e (310) (136)

Preference for Fabric With or Without Permanent Press Finish

Buying Intentions and Purchase

Before shopping for their last piece of fabric for spring or summer clothing, approximately 66 percent of the respondents said they intended to buy a fabric with a permanent press finish, compared with 8 percent who said they intended to buy a fabric without a permanent press finish. Buyers from larger households, from households with children under 19 years of age, and those living in metropolitan areas were more likely to be planning to buy material with a permanent press finish for spring or summer clothing. When discussing the last piece bought for fall or winter clothing, 47 percent said they intended to buy fabric with a permanent press finish and 11 percent said their intention was to buy fabric without this finish.

Almost all of the respondents bought the type of fabric they had in mind. However, before they shopped for their 1 as t piece of fabric for spring or summer clothing, 26 percent of the respondents said they had neither a fabric with or wit hout per- manent press finish in mind. The percentage rose to 4 2 perc ent prior to shopping for the last piece of fabric for fal 1 or winter clothing. Among those who had neither a fabric with o r without permanent press finish in mind for spring or summer cl o thing 43 percent bought fabric with a permanent press finish and 52 percent bought fabric without this finish. Twenty-nin e perc ent of those respondents with no particular intent before shopp ing for the last piece of material for fall or winter clot hing bought fabric with a permanent press finish, compared with 64 percent who did no t

10 .

Reasons for Preference and Purchase of Fabric With Permanent Press Fini sh

Ease of care and laundering accounted for about 85 percent of the replies when respondents were asked why they intended to buy a permanent press finish fabric for the last piece bought for each set of seasons. Most of these responses reflected the little or no ironing needed by the fabric or its wash-and-wear quality. Wearing performance was also mentioned by about a quarter of the respondents. Included in this category were comments reflecting wrinkle resistance (such as "won't wrinkle" or "stays neat longer"). These were mentioned by about 2 in 10 respondents who intended to purchase fabric with a permanent press finish, regardless of seasons. (Summary of questions 7b and 14b)

Among those respondents unconcerned whether the fabric had a permanent press finish and the few whose expressed intention was to buy material without such a finish, but bought fabric with this finish, about 5 in 10 gave reasons unrelated to the finish* or lack of it. The reasons mentioned most were that they liked the color or pattern of the material or the fabric just appealed to them. Among those who intended to buy fabric with a permanent press finish and did so, only about 1 in 10 mentioned reasons unrelated to the finish.

Ease of care and laundering (particularly the fact that little or no ironing was required) was mentioned as the reason for pur- chasing fabric with permanent press finish by 49 percent for sprinj or summer clothing and 31 percent for fall or winter. Reasons involving wearing performance were mentioned by about the same proportion of buyers — 16 percent for spring or summer and 12 percent for fall or winter. Again, wrinkle resistance received the most mentions in this category. (Summary of questions 7e and 14e)

Reasons for Preference and Purchase of Fabric Without Permanent Press Finish

Those who planned to buy a fabric without a permanent press finish were asked their reasons. Three major reasons were mentioned, regardless of season: Knits don't need premanent press finish, just like the fabric or material without permanent press finish, and the fabric is not available with permanent press f inish

Those who did not have in mind either a fabric with or without permanent press finish but bought one without it, and those who had intended to buy a fabric with permanent press finish but bought fabric without it, were also asked why they did so. The reasons given most had little to do with the lack of permanent press finish. Respondents simply liked the color, pattern, or looks. The next largest group-13 percent for spring or summer clothing and 23 percent for fall or winter clothing--

11 said the fabric purchased was not available in permanent press finish. (Summary of questions 7e and 14e)

Preference for Fabric Cons t rue t ion--Kni t , Woven, Pile Buying Intentions and Purchases All respondents who bought fabric for spring or summer or for fall or winter clothing were asked whether they had a knit, a , or a pile such as or in mind when shopping for the last piece of fabric purchased for each set of seasons. The answers as shown in the following tabulations varied for each

set of seas ons :

Spring , Fall , summer winter •Percent

Knit 40 49 Woven 24 19 Pile 2 12 Nothing in mind 33 21 Base (1,336) (920)

Respondents living in metropolitan areas over 1 million were less likely than those living in smaller metropolitan or rural areas to have had a knit in mind before shopping for the last piece of fabric purchased for clothing for each pair of seasons. Knits were also mentioned less frequently by those aged 12-19 than by older respondents. (Questions 8a and 15a) Almost all of the respondents bought the type of fabric construction they had intended to buy.

Respondents who did not have a knit, woven, or pile fabric in mind, or bought something other than what they had in mind, were asked which of these kinds of fabric they bought. For spring or summer clothing, 47 percent bought a woven fabric, 32 percent bought a pile, 15 percent a knit. For fall or winter clothing, 38 percent bought a woven fabric, 31 percent a knit, and 25 a pile.

Reasons for Preference and Purchase of Particula r Fabric Contruction

Knit --Persons who had planned to buy a knit before shopping for their last piece of fabric were asked their reasons. The largest group, regardless of season, mentioned reasons related to care and launder ing--l i t t le or no ironing needed, easy to care for, and washable. Wearing performance (such as holds shape, won't stretch; wears well, durable; and wrinkle resistant) was also an important consideration. Reasons unrelated specifically to fabric construction such as knit looks good, expensive, and just like knit fabric were indicated by more than one-third of the respondents who planned to buy a knit for each set of seasons. Other reasons given by about 2 in 10 respondents in response to this question were wearing comfort and sewing ease.

12 As shown in the following tabulations, the reasons mentioned most for planning to buy a knit for each set of seasons were generally the same: Spring, Fall, s ummer wint er Percent

Care and laundering 50 43 Reasons unrelated to knit construction 38 36 Wearing performance 34 39 Comfort 22 24 Easy to sew or work with 19 19 Base (536) (447) (Summary of questions 8b and 15b)

Of the respondents who did not have any particular fabric con- struction in mind before shopping for their last piece of clothing material for each of the paired seasons but who bought a knit, and the few who intended to buy something other than a knit but bought one anyway, about 60 percent indicated their reasons were unrelated to the fabric's knit construction. Most of these reasons reflected an impulse purchas e-- t he respondents said they liked the color, pattern, or looks of the material. Easy care and laundering reasons plus wearing performance were the only other reasons mentioned by more than 2 in 10 of the respondents.

Woven — When asked their reasons for planning to buy a woven fabric before shopping for their last piece of fabric to be used for these seasons, 44 percent gave reasons not specifically related to fabric construction for spring or summer clothing and 59 percent for fall or winter apparel. Comfort, including such comments as cool for summer and lightweight, and warm for winter, was mentioned as a reason for intent to buy woven fabric by 35 percent for spring or summer clothing and by 23 percent for fall or winter. (Summary of questions 8b and 15b)

Those who did not have a particular fabric construction in mind before shopping but bought a woven fabric, and those who had a in mind but bought a woven one, were asked their reasons. The majority of respondents (67 percent for spring or summer clothing and 78 percent for fall or winter) gave reasons un- related to fabric construction — just liked the fabric or material, liked the color or pattern, and it looked good or expensive. No other reason was given by more than 2 in 10 respondents for either set of seasons. (Summary of questions 8e and 15e)

Pile --So few respondents had a pile in mind before shopping for the last piece of fabric purchased for summer clothing that detailed analysis was impossible. Among those 12 percent who did have a pile in mind for fall or winter clothing, about 7 in 10 gave reasons unrelated to fabric construction, such as like the pile colors, patterns, and looks.

13 ) ht s

Those who had a fabric other than pile in mind before shopping for the last piece of fabric under discussion but bought a pile, and those who had no particular fabric construction in mind before shopping but bought a pile, were asked why they had purchased it. For both sets of seasons, the reasons given most were those unrelated to fabric construction such as: Liked the looks, color, or pattern; and easy care and laundering.

Preference for Fiber Content

Buying Intentions and Purchase

Just over half the respondents who bought fabric for spring or summer or for fall or winter clothing said they had a particula? fiber content in mind before shopping for their last piece of fabric, regardless of season. Respondents aged 12-19 were less likely to have had a particular fiber content in mind than older respondents. Almost all of these people said they purchased the fiber content they had in mind.

Tho se wh o had a fib er c ont en m mind wer e as ked whi ch fibers they had p Ian ned to buy . Mo re tha n ha If the r espo ndent talking abou t th e las t piece pur chas ed for the paired seas ons men t ioned manm ade fiber s . Of thes e , a 11 but a f ew named pol yes ter . Natural fibe r s w ere m ent ione d by 21 perc en t fo r spring or summer clo thes 29 t and p ercen for f all or w inter clot hes. Bl ends , prima r i ly cott on b 1 ends , were men t ione d by 2 2 pe re ent o f the respon dents for sp ri ng or summer clo thes and b y on ly 8 per c ent for fa 11 or wint er . Resp ondent s fro m ho usehol ds w ith five o r more me mber s were mo r e lik ely to have nat ural f iber s in min d th an thos e from hous ehol ds wi th thre e or f ou r memb er s . Among thos e aged 12-19, nat u ral fiber s were much mor e popu lar than man made fibers About half men t ione d they int e nded to bu y na tural fi ber s for cl othing

. for each set of seas ons In cont r as t , manmade fib er s rec e i ved the larg est numbe r of me nt io ns f r om t e ol der resp onde nts . ( Summary of q uest ions 9b and 16b)

Reasons for Preference of Purchase

- SJ2 ring or Summer -Reasons for intending to buy a particular fiber b ef or e sho ppmg for the last piece of fabric bought for spring or s ummer cloth es were analyzed only. for cotton, polyester, and cot t on bl end s . Th e other fibers were mentioned by too few respond ent s Al 1 cott on was considered cooler for summer than a cotton blen d or polyes ter, and a cotton blend was considered cooler than po lyes ter . All p olyester and cotton blends were considered easier to c are f or or launder than cotton, particularly in view of the litt le or no ir oning needed for blends or polyester, Polyest er r ec eiv ed mo r e mentions for better wearing performance than c o tton To be mo re specific, polyester was considered more wrinkle res is tan t than cotton and less likely to lose its shape.

( Summar y of ques t ions 9c and 16c

14 . . . ,

Fall or Winter — Reasons for intending to P ur ch ase a particu- lar fiber before shopping for the last piece of fab r i c bought for fall or winter clothes were analyzed only for P olyes t er , wool and cotton. The other fibers were mentioned by too few respond- ent s Seventy percent of those planning on b uy ing polyester gave care and laundering reasons for preferring it . Comments receiving mos t mentions in this category were: Little or no ironing needed and polyester is washable. Thirty-five percent also mentioned wearing performance. For example, polyester wears wel 1 and i s wr in kle resistant. Among those indicating wool , th e reason mentioned most frequently was comfort (55 percent). Winter warm th was the chief reason mentioned for the comfort of wool. Mos t of the reasons mentioned by the comparat i vely few respondents intending to buy cotton involved easy care an d laun der ing (Summary of questions 9c and 16c)

Fiber Content Purchased by Those Who Did Not Have A Preference or Did Not Buy the Fiber Content They Preferred

About half the re spondents who bought fabric for each of the paired seasons did not have a particular fiber content in mind before shopping for th e last piece of fabric for the seasonal clothing. In addition , a few of the respondents who did plan on buying a particular fi ber selected a fiber other than the one they had in mind. Both of these groups were asked which fiber content they did purchase. Fo r spring or summer clothes, 35 percent purchased manmade fibe rs , primarily polyester. Blends (chiefly cotton plus some other fiber) were mentioned by 28 percent, Natural fibers were ci ted by 19 percent. Cotton received almost all natural fiber ment ions. For fall or winter clothing, polyester was reported most (22 percent).

Respondents in this group were a little more inclined to buy blends and somewhat less likely to buy 100-percent manmade fibers than those who had a preference before shopping. (Summary of questions 9e and 16e)

Respondents were asked why they boug ht the particular fiber c ontent For spring or summer c lothing , only polyester, cotton, and cotton blends were mentioned by enoug h respondents for analy s i s For all three fibers, purchase on impulse was an impo r t ant factor. Reasons were given s uc h as: Liked the colors, pat terns , de signs ; 1 ooked good , pretty, e xpensive; and just liked the fabric. Generally, ease of care and laundering reasons were ment ioned by more respondents for polyest er than for cotton blend; or cotton. Comfort reasons were given mo re for cotton than for cotton blends or p olyester. Somewhat sim ilar reasons were given for polyester, woo 1 , and cotton purchased for fall or winter clothing. ( Summar y of question 9f)

15 s

Factors Influencing Fabric-Buying Decisions

Spring or Summer

All respondents who had bought fabric for spring or summer clothing were asked to rate the extent to which 15 specific factors influenced their decision to buy a type of fabric similar to the last piece purchased for these seasons. For each factor they were to indicate whether it had a lot of influence, a little influence, or no influence. The factors having a lot of influence on 80 percent or more of the respondents were: Washability; doesn't wrinkle easily; good value for the money; colors, patterns, and designs; and easy to sew or work with. Fiber content generally had a lot of influence in buying decisions for 66 per- cent of these respondents and a little influence for 23 percent.

Factors having no influence on 50 percent or more of these respondents were: Sewing classes, salespeople, friends or relatives, and advertisements.

The ratings for all factors are shown in the following tabulations :

Degree of Influence

A lot A little None

Washability 89 7 4 Doesn't wrinkle easily 88 8 4 Good value for the money 86 11 3 Colors, patterns, designs 85 12 3 Easy to sew or work with 80 14 6 Permanent or durable press finish 76 14 10 Way fabric is made, such as knit or woven 73 20 7 Can be worn during several seasons 69 22 9

Fiber content 66 23 1 1 Reduced price 46 33 21 Advert isement 16 32 52 Store d i splays 19 36 45 Friends or relatives 12 26 62 Sewing classes 10 10 80 Salespeople 9 24 67

Base (1,336)

Fall or Winter

The same general pattern of responses emerged for the type of fabric similar to the last piece purchased for fall or winter

lb y

clothing. The important factors (those having a lot of influence on 80 percent or more of these respondents) were: Colors, patterns, designs; good value for the money; doesn't wrinkle easily; and way fabric is made. Fiber content generally had a lot of influence in buying decisions for 66 percent of these respondents and a little influence for 23 percent.

Sewing classes, salespeople, friends or relatives, advertise- ments, and store displays had no influence on about 50 percent or more of these respondents. The ratings for all factors are shown in the following tabulations:

Degree of Influence

A lot A little None

Colors, patterns, designs 86 12 2 Good values for the money 84 12 4 Doesn't wrinkle easily 84 11 5 Way fabric is made, such as knit or woven 81 15 4 Easy to sew or work with 77 15 8 Washabi li t 73 10 17 Fiber content 66 23 11 Permanent or durable press finish 64 16 20 Can be worn during several seasons 60 23 17 Reduc ed price 45 28 27 Store disp lays 18 33 49 Advert isements 17 29 54 Friends or relatives 12 26 62 Salespeople 10 23 67 Sewing classes 10 10 80

Base (920)

In general, there were few significant differences among the demographic or socioeconomic categories for the buy ing-dec i sion factors. Where differences occurred, they did not affect the overall ranking of the importance of the buy ing-dec i s ion factor. For both sets of seasons, the 12-19 age group rated eight characteristics as less important to their buying decision than did the older respondents. These factors included: Washability; doesn't wrinkle easily; easy to sew or work with; permanent or durable press finish; way fabric is made, such as knit or woven; can be worn during several seasons; and fiber content. (Summary of questions 11 and 18)

17 RELATED SEWING HABITS

Reasons for Making Clothing Rather than Buying Readymade

All buyers were asked why articles of clothing were made rather than bought readymade. Sixty-five percent mentioned that it was cheaper or more economical. Each of the following reasons was mentioned by about 3 in 10: Can make exactly what you want, greater variety of styles; creative satisfaction; and better fit. (Four percent of the buyers said they had bought fabric only for items other than clothing.)

The 12-19 age group mentioned the appeal of making exactly what they wanted more frequently than the older respondents. However, the older respondents were more apt to mention "better fit" than those aged 12-19. Respondents aged 20-29 mentioned creative satisfaction more than those 40-49 years of age. Respondents from households of three or more members and those from households with children under 19 were more likely to say that making clothing was cheaper or more economical than those from households with one or two members or those with adults only. Twenty-seven percent of the respondents living in rural areas mentioned better workmanship and quality. About half as many mentions in this category came from respondents living in large or small metropolitan areas. (Question 19)

Who Makes the Clothing

Respondents that bought fabric for clothing were asked who made it. Eighty-five percent of them said they made their own clothing as opposed to having someone else make it. There was a greater tendency to have someone else do the sewing among those aged 12-19 than among older respondents. (Question 20a) Among the 15 percent who said someone else did the sewing, 7 in 10 said this person was someone outside the immediate household. However, in the case of those aged 12-19 who did not do their own sewing, 54 percent said the sewing was done by someone in the household. (Question 20b)

Purchase of Pattern or Fabric First

In about 7 in 10 cases, the respondent purchased the pattern and then the fabric for the last piece of material bought for spring, summer or for fall, winter clothes. About 2 in 10 respondents said they purchased the fabric first. About 1 in 10 used old or borrowed patterns or did not use a pattern. Respond- ents living in metropolitan areas and those aged 12-19 were more likely to buy the pattern before the fabric than those living in rural areas or those aged 20 and over. (Questions 10 and 17)

18 .

REACTION TO WASHABLE WOOL

Awareness and Use of Washable Wool

Slightly more than 70 percent of all buyers were aware of washable wool fabric. Thirty-seven percent of those who had heard of it said they had used it. Use was higher in the age group 30-49 than it was among those under 20 or those 50 and over. Awareness and use also varied significantly when related to the respondent's education. Persons with less than a high school education were not as aware of washable wool and not as many had used it as those with a higher education. (Questions 23a and 23b)

Satisfaction with Washable Wool

Over 80 percent of the respondents who had used washable wool said they were satisfied with it. Of the 14 percent who were not satisfied, 43 percent were critical because they said washable wool did not look as nice after washing and 29 percent said it shrank

REACTION TO PERMANENT PRESS FINISH

Problems

Eighty-seven percent of the respondents said they did not have any problems with permanent press finish fabric they had purchased since June 1971. The 13 percent who indicated dis- satisfaction were asked what fiber content was involved and the problem. There were so few mentions of each of the various fibers that no meaningful analysis was possible. However, complaints included: The finish washed out (particularly when discussing cotton) stains don't wash out, and still needs ironing.

Interest in Concept of New Permanent Press Process

There has been limited research and testing of a permanent press finish that can be added to an article of clothing already completed. Therefore, considerable interest has been expressed in consumer reactions to the concept of adding a permanent press finish to clothing made from fabric without such a finish.

Seventy-five percent of the respondents said they would be interested in a permanent press process applied to clothing made from 100-percent cotton or a blend of cotton and .

Forty-four percent of those who were interested in the potential permanent press process said they would pay from 75 cents to $1.00 per article of clothing for the process. Twenty- five percent would pay from $1.00 to $1.25, and 27 percent would pay from $1.25 to $1.50.

19 Those who were not interested in the permanent press process were asked their reasons. A third said there was no need for it because you could already buy fabric with a permanent press finish. Eighteen percent said they didn't want the bother or extra work. Other reasons, each given by less than 1 in 10, included cost, skepticism that the process would work, indication that they didn't mind ironing, didn't like cotton, or didn't like permanent press finish.

CHARACTERISTICS RELATED TO SELECTED FIBERS

Each respondent was read 11 phrases, each of which might be used to describe some or all of the five selected fibers that can be used to make fabric — 100-percent cotton, 100-percent or acetate, 100-percent polyester, 100-percent wool, and a blend of polyester and cotton. The fibers were discussed individually so that the respondent could tell the interviewer whether each phrase was associated with the particular fiber.

The order of the fibers was reversed in interviews with half the respondents to counter any positional bias. (See the appendix for an analysis of positional bias.)

Analysis of the responses showed that the following phrases evoked a high degree and similar level of association among fabric buyers when considering blends of polyester and cotton, 100-per- cent polyester, and 100-percent cotton: Variety of colors, patterns, designs; washability; and easy to sew or work with.

Blends of polyester and cotton and 100-percent polyester had a higher degree of association with looks good a long time and can be worn during several seasons than did all wool or all cotton.' One hundred-percent polyester, blend of polyester and cotton, and 100-percent cotton, in that order, are all regarded as better values for the money than 100-percent wool.

Half or more respondents associated 100-percent rayon or acetate with variety of colors, patterns, designs; has to be ironed; and wrinkles easily. About half the respondents indicated that 100-percent rayon or acetate can be worn during several seasons and spots or stains easily.

All wool, all cotton, and all rayon or acetate were associated more than other fibers with spotting and staining easily. All wool had the highest association with shrinking (63 percent). Next in order was all cotton mentioned by about 50 percent of the respondents. (Question 24)

20 FIBERS LOOKED FOR AND DIFFICULTY FINDING THEM

All respondents were asked whether they had looked for 100- percent cotton, 100-percent rayon or acetate, 100-percent polyester, 100-percent wool, or a blend of polyester and cotton when they shopped for fabric during June 1971-June 1972. Here again, the order in which the fibers were read was reversed for half the respondents.

The most popular fiber s--l 00-pe re ent polyester and a blend of polyester and cotton — were mentioned by about 65 percent of the respondents. Next was 100-percent cotton, reported by 44 percent, followed by wool with 21 percent. Only 13 percent of all respond- ents said they had looked for 100-percent rayon or acetate. Those aged 12-19 mentioned cotton more frequently than the older respondents. Respondents reporting some college or more and those from households with incomes of $15,000 or higher were more likely to have looked for wool than those with less education or lower household income. (Question 25a)

Most respondents looking for any of these fibers had no difficulty in finding them. The proportion who did have difficulty finding the fiber they wanted is shown below:

Looked Had dif fi- for 1/ cult y find in g Base

-Per c en L t — Numbe r

100-percent polyester 66 10 1 ,000 Blend of polyester and cotton 64 11 979 100-percent cotton 44 19 668 100-percent wool 21 20 319 100-percent rayon or acetate 13 17 196

1/ Base: 1,527

CHARACTERISTICS OF FABRIC BUYERS

Ninety-nine percent of the respondent fabric buyers were females. Their average age was 38 years. The largest proportion, 41 percent, were high school graduates. Thirty-four percent had attended college and 23 percent had not completed high school. Their average annual household income was $11,120. Fifty percent lived in metropolitan areas of less than 1 million population, 35 percent in metropolitan areas of more than 1 million population, and 15 percent in rural areas. In terms of household size and composition, 60 percent lived in households with children under 19 Forty-one percent lived in households of three of four persons, 33 percent in one- or two-person households, and 26 percent in households with five or more persons.

21 In households where there was more than one fabric buyer, the ages of the fabric buyers other than the respondent were analyzed. About half the other buyers were under 20 years of age.

COMPARISON OF BUYER HOUSEHOLDS WITH NONBUYER HOUSEHOLDS

Several demographic characteristics differentiated the fabric buyer households from the nonbuyer households. The average total household income was higher in the buyer households, $11,120 versus $9,080. Only 11 percent of the buyers were from households with less than $5,000 income. Twenty-five percent of the nonbuyer households were in this income category. Nonbuyer households had fewer members than buyer households and were more likely to be adult-only households. The following tabulations compare the demographic characteristics of the buyer and nonbuyer households:

Fabric b uy er N Dnbuyer househo Ids households

Community size S MSA's less than 1 million 50 42 SMSA's over 1 million 35 42 Rural 15 16 Household income Under $5,000 11 25 $5,000-7 ,499 10 10 $7,500-9,999 15 12 $10,000-14 ,999 25 17 $15,000 and over 23 13 Not ascertained 16 23 Househo Id size 1-2 33 59 3-4 41 28 5 and over 26 13 Household composition Adults only 37 61 Adults and children under 19 60 35 Not ascertained 3 4 --Numb e r

Average household income $11,120 $9 ,080 Average household size 3.2 2.5

Base 1,527 1 ,858

22 APPENDIX

Sample Design

The 1,527 persons interviewed in this study were a represent- ative sample of households in the United States, excluding Alaska and Hawaii, with telephones listed in directories. An eligible respondent was any male or female who had purchased retail yard goods during June 1971-June 1972.

Sampling Method

The sample was based on a national probability sample con- taining three c ell s--met ropol it an , urban, rural--and 45 primary sampling units. The number of interviews per primary sampling area was based on the proportion of telephones in that area to the total sample population of telephone numbers. The proportion of calls in the three cells was based on population statistics rather than telephone numbers because there is no way of obtaining countywide telephone listings as there is with population figures.

Each interviewer was provided with a list of designated numbers and made a minimum of four callbacks to contact the household and complete an interview with an eligible respondent. There was only one piece goods buyer in 79 percent of the house- holds interviewed. Fifteen percent of the households had two buyers, 5 percent had three, and 1 percent had four or more. In 102 cases, interviews were completed with a second eligible buyer. In households where there were more than two eligible buyers, only two of these buyers — randomly selected — were interviewed.

The resulting completion rate was as follows:

23 '

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24 .

Sampling Tolerances

The extent to which sample results may differ from true figures for the population is related to a number of factors. Chief among these are the size of the sample and size of the reported survey percentages. The size of sampling fluctuations is also affected by the way in which primary sampling units are defined and selected and how widely scattered the sample is. The possible magnitudes of these chance sampling fluctuations are estimated on an approximate basis in the table below:

Total Size of samp le subgroup sample 1,500 1,000 500 100

Perc ent

For percentages around:

50 10 40 or 60 10 30 or 70 9 20 or 80 8 10 or 90 6

2 standard errors: 95-percent confidence limits

The chances are approximately 95 in 100 that the survey result does not vary, plus or minus, by more than the indicated amount from the result that would have been obtained had the same procedures been used to interview the entire population. For example, 61 percent of all respondents in the survey said they purchased most of their fabric in a fabric store. The chances are 95 in 100 that the error due to sampling fluctuations is not more than 3 percentage points.

This survey had a nonresponse rate of 12 percent. To the ex- tent that the nonresponse group differs from those responding, the confidence limits as set forth in this section are understated. The confidence levels are correct and valid if the assumption is made that there is no measurable difference between respondents and nonr espond ent s

Explanation of Survey Questionnaire

Two color coded versions of the questionnaire were used. They differed only in that the order of fibers was reversed in questions 24 and 25 to minimize positional bias. Equal numbers of both versions were assigned to each sample cluster. This created two subsamples of approximately equal size, and presumably, similar socioeconomic characteristics. There was no deliberate attempt to match subsamples in terms of respondent characteristics.

25 When it was established that there were no eligible respond- ents (buyers of retail piece goods since June 1971) in the household, only questions about household composition and total household income for 1971 were asked.

Analysis of Positional Bias

To investigate positional bias potential, about half the respondents were read the list of five fibers in one order and about half were read a reversed order in questions 24 and 25a. The order of fibers in version 1 was 100-percent cotton, 100- percent rayon or acetate, 100-percent polyester, 100-percent wool, and a blend of polyester and cotton. In version 2 the order was reversed. In question 24 the "t" statistic was used for each pair (version 1 versus version 2) of scores to determine whether the difference between the scores was statistically significant. In only four cases was the difference significantly different. This is a reasonable expectation at the 95-percent confidence level on a random basis.

In question 25a, the rank order correlation was 1.0, indicat- ing perfect correlation between the two versions and thus no significant difference:

Version 1 Version 2 Perc ent Rank Perc ent Rank

100-percent cotton 40 3 48 3 100-percent rayon or acetate 13 5 12 5 100-percent polyester 69 1 62 1 100-percent wool 23 4 18 4 Blend of polyester and cotton 67 2 61 2

Explanation of Tables

Tables are presented in the order of questioning, except instances where similar questions have been grouped for ready comparison. Generally, the wording used in the actual question is given as the table heading. Tables are identified by the number of the questions on which they are based.

26 Question la: "In what type of store do you buy most of your fabric— a fabric store; a chain store such as Montgomery Ward, Sears, or Penney's; a de- partment store; or some other source?"

Type store 1/ Respondent characteristics Depart- Cases Fabric Chain Other ment Number

U. S. total 1, 527 6] 25 18 4

Community size:

SMSA's over 1 million 540 62 27 13 3 SMSA's less than

1 million 754 65 21 21 4 Rural 233 46 33 20 5 Education: Some high school 346 47 29 23 3 High school graduate 630 63 25 18 5 Some college or more 511 70 21 15 4 Age:

12-19 172 65 22 17 1 20-29 308 70 18 16 4 30-39 290 62 23 18 5 40-49 306 6] 29 16 4 50 and over 396 52 28 23 5 Household composition: Adults only 568 58 29 19 5 Adults and children under 19 920 63 22 19 4 Household income: Under $5, 000 168 44 28 26 5 $5, 000-7,499 158 ^-; 29 25 6 $7,500-9,999 221 55 30 21 2 $10,000-14, 999 383 66 19 16 5 $15, 000 and over 349 70 24 12 4

1/ Excluded are 2 percent of the respondents that indicated they do not shop in any particular store for fabric.

27 Question lb: "Where is that store located— in the city, the suburbs, or in a rural area? "

Location of store E espondent characteristics City and No Cases City Suburb suburb answer or rural Number

U.S. total 1, 527 54 41 3 2

Community size:

SMSA ' s over 1 million 540 41 55 2 2 SMSA's less than 1 million 754 57 37 4 2 Rural 233 71 23 4 2 Education: Some high school 346 ^Q 37 3 1

High school graduate 630 54 41 3 2 Some college or more 511 49 46 3 2 Age:

12-19 172 53 43 2 2

20-29 308 57 40 1 2

30-39 290 51 44 3 2 40-49 306 48 46 4 2 50 and over 396 60 35 4 1 Household composition:

Adults only 568 60 36 3 1 Adults and children

under 19 920 5] 44 3 2 Household income: Under $5, 000 168 67 29 4 $5,000-7,499 158 70 26 3 1 $7,500-9,999 221 62 34 2 2 $10, 000-14,999 383 50 45 3 2

$15, 000 and over 349 43 53 3 1

28 Question lc: "Why do you buy most of your fabric in a (department store, chain store) ? "

Type £;1 Dre Reasons Department Chain

Material carried by store 51 48 Selection, variety, color 39 36 Quality, good material 14 17 Other material reasons 2 2

Convenience of store 36 30

Price, cheaper, more reasonable 22 40

Good sales, sale 10 7

Just like the store 6 3

Impulse purchase 4 5

Charge account 4 4

Can do other shopping there 3 3

Handle accessories, patterns 3 3

Personnel helpful, courteous 2 3

Friend, relative, self work there 2 3

Other 8 5

No answer 3 4

,- Numb er- _»__=== .. , = „

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J 2 Question 2a: "Do you or do you not generally check the fiber content when you are buying fabric? "

Respondent Do not Cases Check characteristic s check

Number

U.S. total 1, 527 79 21

Community size:

SMSA's over 1 million 540 79 21 SMSA's less than 1 million 754 79 21 Rural 233 79 21 Education: Some high school 346 71 29 High school graduate 630 79 21 Some college or more 511 86 14 Age: 12-19 172 70 30 20-29 308 78 22 30-39 290 84 16 40-49 306 83 17 50 and over 396 77 23 Household composition: Adults only 568 77 23 Adults and children under 19 920 80 20 Household income: Under $5, 000 168 67 33 $5, 000-7,499 158 73 27 $7, 500-9,999 221 80 20 $10, 000-14, 999 383 83 17 $15, 000 and over 349 85 15

33 1 < i

cj o OIOO CO co co CMl r- —< CO CJ col co r— njd ^ O f o f r- OJ 1 vD i-h i in |(M no -1 OJ co

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o^ CO 1 --i|o i-h CM -h Tf CM CD '~\ -r r- f ro f I co in cm LT' in ^ _ in 1 t^|cO m -• rt m OJ ro|~ •* < o | CO CM

CT^ oo i in n|li ^ m co co 50 a f f co 001 O vO CM un in IT' _ 1 O i-h i-h o i r-|co cm cm| i-h cm|cm CO CM CO

o^ ""* 1 00|(M \f sD in CO <*1 CO o "'1 in CO f I r- r- cm r- vD r- CO 1 rt 10 >-i ~h -h i m |cm oo| CJ cm|- CJ CM CM

10

U CJ CJ (i eg cj s i o|cm co in cm 1 CO i-H vO m m vO CJ Ol xO CO in in in CM 1 CM r-|co CM —1 CJ co £ o o -M co| cm|cm u * o c fn en ° a f cd CJ o - U c 5 o 1— o 3 • IH a (^ Z 1 in CO m o^ co o co cm col -f CT- f CJ —it in in cm (50 -r vO -h co| CJ CNj|-H a 3 T3 a w en ,_, CJ CJ _c K 1 ^|h h rf CO 30 m r- CO in tj- t h f CMl co vO ir DO CM ' vX) 1 ' in|ro co —i ro| CJ Som hig scho rM|- CM

1 o-lco -* nO ih CO CO co| O O Ml CM o 00 f CO LT1 CO LT: CM ' •sf 3 1 in|cM cm i-h t| CM l—f n\~ co «

m 1) C SI 1 •fir- co co co CO m o vOl -r CO CM f 1 00 f CO X f r- CM CO less than millio 1 olcM CM — CO| CJ OJ -1 SMSA o 1 :>> 1 in

."tJ 'a 3 to C S ", L O 1 oico in ~h ^h LT -f cm - CO CO (M col so r- co vD o o CM ty- 1 vD CO fM i-h i-h 1 59 > '-' CM (m|-h ro -g 1 * u So

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Ul a H n) CJ +J •IH

CJ a „ c *iH ^l tO CJ p ble CJ 4) 3 ^ co rt CJ od cr i4H *-< i4H ^ O CJ a not M CJ CO ^ of ^ « " ^ mar star a ° _ ,2 ter shap o >h d m vh e CO 2 w flrtflOL^cju CJ -5 » c n co ki resi > CJ •rH perfor to sh: is durabl laun polye wash ironi CJ holds •H K easy sure >, it unspecifi it CJ; M n o what CJ how a a |H t-i 3 CO and if if if if if x if if rinkle if cr o > o CJ Sh l-H ike •ing e e e e 3 CO e e 3 e e e e ^H c n^ • CJ CJ CJ CJ CJ CJ —'CJ £1 CJ vh f-i CJ CO ° O CJ ro u co co co co to co CO co co << W ^ co CD CO

x c CS o I- cu <-i ^t* co in t^ —< -( o J hf col f- vD o > volol co CM i-i co cm nh

cH o o un sol i-i co in co m |oo vO ^v vOl CO (M —< CO oj

i-f|vO rn oo m t—ilvij a- in CO |CT- CO O i-H - •CNN CM -H I

J u X, cu crt u re 3 si o oo r-

rf It-- CM O ^D t- ~f I co in vo Ul r M N h COlcM , _. X a 5

d d to cu 00 s O M H ^ ico in J2 -o xO| N N h H

c

Ol 00 ro rt CO 001 'I* H CO CO ^f CO N o sol (M (M -H n N h -f 3 <

d CO d • <-* iH 01. 0) rH X 3 x OJ 0J o +J '— S- „ IH 4-> c d CO cu ro H u 03 CU cu s 3 ro +j o ro 7> o cu bO C7' J-H <4H C o

i c a C a CO ro ^ o — ro cu a J3 CO CU 3 CO • H 4J CO -I-i «H r— u ro ro fi -i-j . ' 'J o ro 3 S • 4) a cut? -C H H •H o g CO i> X o a JM 3 >4H [0 a; bt ro d H •1-4 o f o CU CU OJ cu i-i o o o o o cu ro Sh '/; '/: t/1 T. '/': c/j C/j M w w S ^ cu re CO o ro U ffi 5 U t/J U

35 Question 2c: "How do you determine the fiber content?" (Asked only if said

generally check fiber content when buying fabric. )

Respondent Read By feel Ask sales Cases Other characteristic s label or look people Number Percent

U. S. total 1, 211 78 27 14 2

Community size:

SMSA's over 1 million 429 80 21 18 3 SMSA's less than

1 million 598 7S 30 13 2 Rural 184 84 27 8 3

Education:

Some high school 246 65 37 14 1 High school graduate 498 SI 27 12 2 Some college or more 442 83 L9 16 4 Age: 12-19 121 80 23 11 3 20-29 239 84 25 13 2 30-39 245 76 25 13 3 40-49 255 83 24 14 2 50 and over 306 70 33 IS 2 Household composition:

Adults only 440 74 29 1 b 3 Adults and children under 19 740 80 25 13 2 H lsehold income: Under $5, 000 113 63 45 16 2 $5,000-7,499 116 70 38 13 2 $7,500-9,999 176 76 32 14 3

$10,000-14, 999 319 82 24 1 1 3 $15, 000 and over 297 85 15 lb 2

\h Question 4a: "What, if anything, has been made from it? " (Asked only if than clothing June said bought fabric for items other since 1971. )

Articles made Percent

Curtains 58

Slipcovers 27

Cushion covers 15

Bedspreads 12

Tablecloths, placemats 10

Decorations 9

All bags — not purses 8

Pillowcase s 5

Pu r s e s 5

Toys 3

Towels, potholders, appliance covers 3

Other 14

None made as yet 5

Cases: 633

37 i i i i I

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C 00 i-h i—I 00 OO co in oo o r- vO —' OO OO ~h

o

CO

in o m o ^f co CO en CO 1 o f-i 00 —l

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oo r- co LOT O^ O^ i* 00 00 00 co H -h i— H N i oo —< oo

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o J, ^5 > 00 CO CO h N ^ U~l lO r-H O \f r- o O ^P CO 00 o^ IJ. oo oo oo oo oo oo oo oo oo oo oo oo oo 00 00 O0 00 i— c u a. re 10 C OO CO O O O in O O oo r~ ^ co XI i o CO OO 00 CO OO i—i 00 CO CO 00 00 OO 00

cu r— o t CO sO o — CM 0C o SO i X r; co oo —I co cr- c J-' oo -t- IT) CO * CO [- o o O c- -£> OO >o m ro oo t in in r- oo CO vO LT1 — co O] CO in ^h H CO O^ —i 00 CO CO ^1 3 - 2

cu o -rH u, S c rt C c u s S V a T CO -' _ c c CU n c !- 3 U r o-- h a tn xs o c -v u s re o a - CU x! c 11] -H c .': • 1 4-S o s CU n ft re CO — J3 c CU > 10 re x; c > '.-, 1) U Qj a. X! E o a c re re (0 cr c K re in o T3 Xl CO >. u o a-- -1- a I".: C! n c (1 re in O r-l > u c c T3 60 xl LO o o o re an i o o c XI u r.; CO CO co o o o o r: o a c •-. '» (U 0) o o o o L0 10 re :' • 1 w +J C to c £ i 1 cu cu o in 3 !- T3 HI <> 1 CO CO c i— 2 2 n o o c n in ; ' 1 o •/"I o

Made d res ses

~R espondent characteristics Spring, Fall, Cases Cases summer winter Number Percent Number Percent

U. S. total 1, 336 40 920 33

Community size:

SMSA's over 1 million 465 41 292 31

SMSA's less than 1 million 662 39 469 33 Rural 209 37 159 3S Education: Some high school 314 39 192 34 High school graduate 554 39 378 32 Some college or more 435 40 325 32

Age: 12-19 164 34 105 33 20-29 267 40 185 34 30-39 250 36 191 26 40-49 265 36 194 U> 50 or over 343 48 216 35 Household composition: Adults only 489 47 303 38 Adults and children under 19 813 35 598 30 Household income: Under $5, 000 147 42 85 45 $5, 000-7,499 143 46 96 33 $7,500-9,999 197 38 138 36 $10,000-14, 999 321 34 242 Z7 $15, 000 and over 304 39 228 30

39 Summary of questions 6c and 13c: Respondent characteristics and ages for whom article s~ef"' clothing had been made from the last piece of fabric bought since June 1971 for (spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing. (Asked only if said bought fabric since June 1971 for

(spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing. )

Spring or summer 1/ Respondent characteristics Under 5 and Cases 13-18 19-29 30-49 13 over

Number - Percent -

U.S. total 1,077 12 21 21 25 19

Community size: SMSA's over 1 million 394 12 19 2 3 27 17 SMSA's less than 1 million 517 10 21 2i) 2 3 23 Rural 166 1( 2 : 21 24 13

Education: Some high school 239 9 47 8 13 23 High school graduate 446 L5 16 21 27 19

Some college or more 366 11 12 3 3 16

Age: 12-19 137 7 78 13 2

20-29 220 18 1 78 2 1

30-39 214 21 18 1 57 1 40-49 219 S 23 6 5 8 2 50 and over 250 5 8 6 2 76

Household composition: Adults only 382 3 2 25 24 43 Adults and children under 19 667 17 31 2 2. 6

Household income: Under $5, 000 110 6 16 14 15 47

$5,000-7,499 115 It 14 21 20 2 9 $7,500-9,999 149 11 13 3 2 28 15 $10, 000-14,999 262 16 2 29 10 $15, 000 and over 252 10 21 22 3 3 13

1/ Excluded are the responses not ascertained. C ontinued

4 Summary of questions 6c and 13c: Respondent characteristics and ages for whom articles of clothing had been made from the last piece of fabric bought since June 1971 for (spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing. (Asked only if said bought fabric since June 1971 for (spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing. ) — Continued

Fall or winter 1/ Respondent characteristic s Under 5 and Cases 13-18 19-29 30-49 13 over

Number - Percent -

U.S. total 813 12 19 22 2 7 1 8

Community size:

SMSA's over 1 million 267 14 18 22 29 16

SMSA's less than 1 million 411 1 1 18 22 27 20 Rural 135 13 22 25 25 12

Education: Some high school 163 10 42 7 18 20 High school graduate 338 13 16 24 27 17 Some college or more 293 12 9 28 32 16

Age: 12-19 100 8 72 15 4

20-29 173 8 1 8 3 4 1

30-39 172 31 1 1 2 55 1

40-49 174 7 23 5 62 1 50 and over 172 5 7 6 3 79

Household composition:

Adults only 258 2 1 2-1 2 7 \ -; Adults and children under 19 539 17 27 22 28 5

Household income: Under $5, 000 71 4 2 17 16 41

$5,000-7,499 85 13 14 28 L9 2 1

$7, 500-9, 999 122 1 1 18 30 29 11

$10, 000-14, 999 218 L6 21 21 29 1 !

$15, 000 and over 202 12 1 5 22 32 15

1/ Excluded are the responses not ascertained.

41 1 , . i i i — i i

o > r~ o cm O CO CM N O vO 00 O CM CM 00 00 vD O- -< Tf 00 Tf •* Tf ^f "i in to co H ^ ^f CO xf CO Tf -a M c •-I 43w « d jj 3 co o c to CO o C"- 00 CM O O in u -d to CM h \f co o s s * .S 0) r

* g s * CO N fl CO o ^o r- o r- n n h r- oo i-h vD O 00 't in co in ^f tC co co in in in O h xf m co ^f \t< CIS .|H .s >« co "- a

E x: cm o o cm oo in in in h ^ vo CO 00 a •rH o r- cm O 00 O O ft U) ra o o c •—i CO CO •-H i-H l-H r-H ^rH 00 O O vO t O 00 xf in CO CM CM CM CM O ^ ^f ^f u CM CM CM ^f CM i-i CM CM CM CM CO CM CM CM CM rH C m ifl E c u aJ

rn rO r- oo rf o r- a^ o t-^ in m 3 3 o * .5 >* Xi ij •rH ( rH u * -a U •|H d rtl ^H H o co _c x: a co co H H fvfl H H rH •o sD m r^- ^ m vo so xD vD o ^o r^ c^ a a, .H rt co (U » co ft • r-1 XI a 01 4-J •H d

ro lH in *& tf cm CT rf i "* f- o m m O CI r> CO h- H tf O vD O i-i in ro vO no m v£> <* 00 —4 -r * a> cm o o •* sO r-l co in * >-h CM CM ro i— -H r-H CO ra CM ^f 00 CO CO X! CO O u a o m d M o d a ^ i—

a, E u X! co to a

CO nl h c X! o rH •rH «h CO •in o 1 1 l-H T3 c +j c • rH c CO m 0) •rH rH 3 T( •rH s !H c rt O ' o i ra ra -O o •rH E rH o .— -t ro Pi rH t •r-t l-H m E o rH ra ra CO -r cr o ra CO io •-H O Tf ra u +J _c u O •rH o > K ra o M a rC o o o o o s: T1 rH CJ CO CO C3^ CO _c en CJ o o O •. rrH •rH o fl o CO E o o ^CM' g CO CO > CD o rH J3 o c rt .2 o > o a C •H £ CJj .a IOOC7 •H ra CO CO 00 IIOO id ... u CJ T3 CO 2 a) to .— OOOO XI rH £ H i— a OOOO < < ra . t — i a O -J rt! -C o m .. . o en en u 3 > ra E 60 5 1 CO ~ o . .0 in •r-i T3 c 10 ra 2 o o .. CM O O o o (/. CO UD t^- l-H rH

42 Summary of questions 7b and 14b: Reasons had fabric with permanent press finish in mind before shopping for last piece of fabric bought for (spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing.

Reasons Spring, summer Fall, winter

Care and laundering 88 85 Little or no ironing needed 70 60 Washable 17 22 Easy to care for (unspecified) 14 16

Wearing performance 26 28 Wrinkle resistant 17 18 Wears well, durable (unspecified) 7 8 Holds shape better, won't stretch 4 ^

Other -wearing performance 2 1

Unrelated to fabric with permanent press finish 11 Like colors, patterns, looks 8 Like fabric, material (unspecified 3

Other unrelated 1

Easy to sew 4

Comfortable 3

Other 1

No answer 3

Number

Cases 886 429

43 Summary of questions 7e and 14e: Reasons bought fabric with or without permanent press fin- ish. (Asked only if had neither in mind or said did not buy the kind intended to get before shopping for last piece of fabric bought for (spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing.)

Spring or summer Fall or winter With Without With Without Reasons permanent permanent permanent permanent press press press press finish finish finish finish

Unrelated to fabric finish 50 65_ 54 59 Like colors, patterns, looks 30 35 24 26 Like fabric, material (unspecified) 15 23 16 25

Feels good 4 3

Less expensive 4 7 2 5

On sale 3 6 3 5 Called for in pattern, by teacher, for group

project 2 2 2 2 Looks good, pretty, expensive b Better quality 2

Care and laundering 12 4 31 2 Little or no ironing needed 37 19 Washable 10 5 Easy to care for (unspecified) 7 3 Permanent press fabrics still have to be ironed 4 Wearing performance ii 2 1_2 2 Wrinkle resistant 9 9 Wears well, durable (unspecified) 4 3 2 2 Holds shape better, won't stretch 4 2

Comfort 4 4 4 2 Comfort (unspecified) 4 2

Cool for summer, warm for winter 4 1 2

Other comfort 1

Easy to sew 2 2 5 3

Not available in permanent press 15 25

Knits don't need permanent press finish 5 6

Other 4 9 2 5

No particular reason 1 2

No answer 3 8 12 9

Cases 166 200 129 252

44 1 !1 i '

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,— id h J-J • H cr- CO ^ N CO 00 LA h N O ^ ff m xo -hh co m co co a -p -"Hh fo in in ^ LO ^ co in in in in -hh ij1 vO ^ in ^ r4

u CO CD o oo cr cr oo co in in m rH h^i xo CO 00 m so oo oo oo in N o- vO o- r- oo o co cr cr — o cr- co cr- co -xf oo CT 00 ^ r-H rH co en rH rH rH rH (\) co u rH oo 00 id a U S3

a> u •H 00 00 co 00 00 m oo Xf CO rH CO oo 00 CO CO -h* 00 CO 00 ft CD c E u a rH 3 0) CD t r^ oo co xO n in •^ CO 00 CO vD 00 sD in oo in in hh in > rH (M oo OO 00 00 00 00 CO 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 OO 00 00

Jh !>>

&0 a •H rH jj ft o rH ^o oo vD co cr 00 CO vO Tf1 00 T}l CO CT rH rH rH CO "* ,HH HH (V) -HH THH HI tHH CO CO ^f CO r-1 ^ ^f ^ Tf CO CO ^ r^

rH vO lo oo cr hh hh m hh r— o m co cr co r- M N h rf U) CD CO vO -£> o rH in on vD -43 in xD "r)< CO rH * I1 (T N o a. XI CO ^f ^ N ro in hh rH OO OO 00 CO "HH CO rH rH rH CO CO en £ _T U r3

o c rH •H CD 1— I— X i c -pi c only and $5, l ; high 000-7, 500-9, ity 's 's 000 n: Id 3 5 cd X) nj

' r . Summary of questions 8b and 15b: Reasons had (knit) (woven) in mind before shop- ping for last piece of fabric bought for (spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing.

Spring or Fall or summer wint er Reasons Knit Woven Knit Woven

Care and laundering 50 22 43 \2

Little or no ironing needed 24 9 21 1 Easy to care for (unspecified) 16 7 13 5

Washable 16 9 14 (. Unrelated to fabric construction 38 44 M 59 Looks good, pretty, expensive 15 7 Like fabric, material (unspecified) 11 17 9 27 Called for in pattern, by teacher, for group project 4 7 5 9

Like colors, patterns, looks 3 8 20 2 3

Feels good 1 2 Other unrelated 7

Wearing performance 34 17 12 11 Holds shape better, won't stretch 12 7 13 4 Wears well, durable (unspecified) 11 9 14 10 Wrinkle resistant 10 3 12 2 Better for packing, travel 4

Other wearing performance 4 2 5 1 Comfort 22 IS 2d 23 Comfort (unspecified) 11 3 12 2

Stretches, gives 7 1 6 1

Cool for summer, warm for winter 2 22 4 1 1 Lightweight 2 12 4

Can wear year round 1 1 3 2 Other comfort 2 3 2 (

Easy to sew 19 11 1" 8

Other 7 8 5 6

No answer 1 1 2 ^

Cases 536 325 447 172

4 b Summary of questions 8e and 15e: Reasons bought woven fabric. (Asked only if didn't have knit, woven, or pile in mind or said did not buy the kind intended to get before shopping for last piece of fabric bought for (spring or summer) (fall or winter) clothing.)

nt - Comments unrelated to fabric construction 67 78 Like color, pattern, looks 31 40 Like fabric, material (unspecified 19 24 Looks good, pretty, expensive 11 13 Called for in pattern, by teacher

for group project 6 1 Less expensive 5 5 On sale 5 3 Feels good 4 4

Comfort 23 15 Cool for summer 12 Warm for winter 10

Lightweight 8 1 Can wear year round 3

Other comfort 6 1

Care and laundering LS 12 Little or no ironing needed 10 5 Washable 6 4 Easy to care for (unspecified) 3 4

Wearing performance 8 8 Wears well, durable (unspecified) 4 4 Holds shape better, won't stretch 3 4 Wrinkle resistant 2

Other wearing performance i

Easy to sew 6 9

Other 2 6

Cases 221 78

47 ' 1ii i t i

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    52 Summary of question 9f: Reasons bought a particular fiber content. (Asked only if had no particular fiber content in mind or said did not buy the fiber content intended before shopping for last piece of fabric bought for spring

    or summer clothing. )

    Fiber content Reasons Cotton Cotton Polyester blends

    Comments unrelated to fiber content 66 55 47 Like color, pattern, looks 29 27 17

    Like fabric, material (unspecified) 15 1 3 12

    Less expensive 10 1 1

    Looks good, pretty, expensive 9 ] 3 10 Feels good 6 3 4

    On sale 3 3 3 Called for in pattern, by teacher, in group project 2 2 3

    Better quality 1 4

    Comfort 28 _LA 8 Cool for summer 18 13 4

    Lightweight 6 3 1 Other comfort 8 3 4

    Care and laundering 20 38, 52 Washable 11 14 18 Little or no ironing needed 6 22 28

    Easy to care for (unspecified) 3 7 1 5

    Wearing performance 11 17 26 Wears well, durable (unspecified) 6 8 15

    Holds shape better, won't stretch 3 t. 5

    Wrinkle resistant 2 (• 7

    '» Easy to sew 8 1 3

    Other 2 4 3

    No answer 4 4 4

    Cases 117 118 163

    53 iI i i

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    56 Question 20a: "Do you make most of the articles of clothing yourself or does someone else make them for you?" (Asked only if said material had been

    bought for articles of clothing since June 1971. )

    Respondent Someone Cases Self characteristic s else

    Number

    U.S. total 1,460 85 is

    Community size:

    SMSA's over 1 million 511 90 10 SMSA's less than

    1 million 721 82 18

    Rural 228 82 1 8

    Education: Some high school 337 78 22

    High school graduate 605 89 1 1 Some college or more 479 84 16

    Age: 12-19 171 75 25 20-29 294 88 12 30-39 273 89 11 40-49 295 87 13 50 and over 375 82 18 Household composition: Adults only 532 85 IS Adults and children under 19 891 85 15 Household income: Under $5, 000 159 81 19 $5,000-7,499 154 80 20 $7, 500-9,999 212 86 14 $10,000-14,999 360 86 14 $15, 000 and over 332 86 14

    57 Question 20b: "Someone in the household or someone outside the household?" (Asked only if said someone else makes most of the articles of clothing.)

    Respondent In Outside Cases characteristic s household household

    Number Percent-

    U. S. total 221 30 70

    Community size: SMSA's over 1 million 48 40 60 SMSA's less than 1 million 133 26 74 Rural 40 35 65 Education: Some high school 73 40 60 High school graduate 66 23 77 Some college or more 76 28 72 Age: 12-19 42 55 45 20-29 36 31 69 30-39 29 28 72 40-49 37 24 76 50 and over 68 19 81 Household composition: Adults only 81 15 85 Adults and children under 19 131 39 61 Household income: Under $5, 000 29 14 s(, $5, 000-7,499 3 7 93 $7,500-9,999 29 24 76 $10,000-14, 999 49 47 53 $15, 000 and over 46 33 67 Question 23a: "Have you or have you not heard of washable wool fabric?"

    Have Have not Respondent Cases characteristic s heard heard

    Number

    U. S. total 1, 527 72 28

    Community size: SMSA's over 1 million 540 71 29 SMSA's less than 1 million 754 72 28 Rural 233 76 24 Education: Some high school 346 63 37 High school graduate 630 73 27 Some college or more 511 78 22 Age: 12-19 172 52 48 20-29 308 72 28 30-39 290 79 21 40-49 306 78 21 50 and over 396 71 29 Household composition: Adults only 568 71 29 Adults and children under 19 920 73 27 Household income: Under $5, 000 168 66 35 $5, 000-7,499 158 74 26 $7,500-9,999 221 77 23 $10,000-14, 999 383 72 28 $15, 000 and over 349 ?=» 25

    5 9 Question 23b: "Have you or have you not used it? (Asked only if said had heard of washable wool fabric.)

    Respondent Have not Cases Have used characteristics used

    Number

    U. S. total 1, 102 37 63

    Community size:

    SMSA's over 1 million 385 39 61

    SMSA's less than 1 million 540 34 66 Rural 177 41 ^o Education: Some high school 218 24 76 High school graduate 461 37 63 Some college or more 397 44 5 6 Age: 12-19 90 23 77 20-29 222 36 64 30-39 229 45 55 40-49 241 42 58 50 and over 281 34 66 Household composition: Adults only 401 33 67 Adults and children under 19 675 40 60 Household income: Under $5, 000 110 28 72 $5, 000-7,499 117 29 71 $7,500-9,999 170 34 66 $10,000-14, 999 277 39 61 $15, 000 and over 263 45 55

    60 Question 24: "I am going to read a list of phrases. . . please tell me whether or not you would associate each with (type of fiber content) ..."

    Type o f fiber con ;ent

    Blend of 100 100 100 100 Descriptive phrases polyester percent percent perc ent percent and rayon or wool polyester cotton cotton acetate

    Variety of colors, patterns, designs 81 56 79 60 HI

    Can be worn during several seasons 79 22 82 45 64

    Washability 78 1 1 83 25 78

    Easy to sew or work with 74 46 74 18 77

    Looks good a long time 69 59 80 23 47

    Good value for the money 69 45 74 24 65

    Absorbs moisture 43 49 37 18 69

    Spots or stains easily 26 4 1 22 46 40

    Has to be ironed 23 45 8 5 6 85

    Shrinks 11 63 8 35 5]

    Wrinkles easily 9 17 5 50 71

    —= *- Cases: 1, 527

    61 . ' i i i

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    64 .

    QUESTIONNAIRE

    Office of Management and Budget No. A0-S71058 Expiration Date: June 30, 1972

    With the exception of check-box material, office record information, and free-answer space, the questionnaire used for this study is reproduced below in entirety. Responses to a few of the questions have not been reported because the data were not of value. Instructions to the interviewers are in upper case letters.

    Hello. My name is . I'm with Market Facts, Inc., a marketing research company. We are conducting a study for the United States Department of Agriculture about fabrics or materials, sometimes called yard goods, that are purchased by the piece or by the yard.

    A. Please tell me whether or not anyone in this household bought any fabric or material that is sold by the piece or the yard since June 1971. (IF "HAS NOT BOUGHT", SKIP TO Q. 26) B. Please tell me the first name of each person who bought fabric by the piece or yard since June 1971. (IF ONE OR TWO PERSONS IN THE HOUSEHOLD BOUGHT FABRIC BY THE PIECE OR YARD, EACH IS ELIGIBLE FOR INTERVIEW. IF THERE ARE MORE THAN TWO, NUMBER THEM ALL IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER AND INTERVIEW NUMBERS 1 AND 2 SEPARATELY. IF AN ELIGIBLE RESPONDENT IS NQT AT HOME, ASK WHEN THE PERSON IS MOST LIKELY TO BE AVAILABLE FOR INTERVIEWING, AND CALL BACK THEN. WHENEVER A SECOND RESPONDENT IN A HOUSEHOLD IS INTERVIEWED REPEAT INTRODUCTION AND START THE INTERVIEW WITH QUESTION la. BE SURE TO KEEP THE TWO QUESTIONNAIRES TOGETHER. REPEAT INTRODUCTION IF NECESSARY.) la. In what type of store do you buy most of your fabric —a fabric store; a chain store such as Montgomery Ward, Sears, or Penney' s; a department store; or some other source? lb. Where is that store located — in the city, the suburbs, or in a rural area? lc. Why do you buy most of your fabric there?

    As you may know, some of the fibers used in fabrics are 100% cotton, wool, rayon or acetate, , polyester, or blends of these fibers. 2a. Do you or do you not generally check the fiber content when you are buying fabric? (IF "DO NOT CHECK", SKIP TO Q. 2d) 2b. Why do you check fiber content? 2c. How do you determine the fiber content? 2d. In general, are you satisfied or not with the fiber content labeling of fabric? (IF "SATISFIED", SKIP TO Q. 3) 2e. Why not?

    3. How many pieces, if any, of the fabric you bought since June 1971 were for items other than clothing ? (IF "NONE", SKIP TO Q. 5)

    I have a few questions about (each of) the (REPEAT NUMBER FROM Q. 3) piece(s) you got for items other than clothing. Let's start with the first one 4a. What, if anything, has been made from it? Ab. (FOR EACH PIECE NOT USED YET, ASK:) What do you plan to make from it? (MUST REPORT ON TOTAL NUMBER OF PIECES MENTIONED IN Q. 3)

    5. How many pieces, if any, of the fabric you bought since June 1971 were for spring or summer clothing of any kind? (IF "NONE", SKIP TO Q. 12)

    I'd like to ask you a few specific questions about the last piece of fabric you bought for spring or summer clothing . 6a. In what month did you buy it? 6b. What, if anything, has been made from it? 6c. For what age, for which sex, and for what general use was (article) made? 6d (IF NOT USED YET, ASK:) What do you plan to make from it? 6e. For what age, for which sex, and for what general use will (article) be made?

    Fabric can be made with a permanent press finish or without one; fabric is also woven or knit and it can be a pile, such as velvet or corduroy; and as I mentioned before, fabric can be made from different fibers or blends of fibers.

    7a. Before shopping for the last piece of fabric you bought for spring or summer clothing , did you have in mind a fabric with a permanent press finish, a fabric without a permanent press finish, or neither one? (IF "NEITHER ONE", SKIP TO Q. 7d) 7b. Why did you want (kind had in mind)? 7c. Did you or did you not buy the kind you intended to get? (IF "DID", SKIP TO 0. 8a)

    65 7d. Which did you buy? 7e. Why did you buy (kind bought)?

    8a. Did you have in mind a knit; a woven fabric; a pile, such as velvet or corduroy; or none of these? (IF "NONE", SKIP TO Q. 8d) 8b. Why did you want (kind had in mind)? 8c. Did you or

    did you not buy the kind you intended to get? (IF "DID", SKIP TO Q. *9a) 8d . Which did you buy? 8e. Why did you buy (kind bought)?

    9a. Did you or did you not have a particular fiber content in mind? (IF "DID NOT", SKIP TO Q. 9e) 9b. What fiber content did you have in mind? (IF RESPONDENT ANSWERS ANYTHING OTHER THAN FIBER CONTENT, READ: Fabric can be made from fibers such as cotton, wool, rayon or acetate, nylon, polyester, or blends of these fibers) (REPEAT THE QUESTION) 9c. Why did you want (fiber)? 9d. Did you or did you not buy the fiber content you intended to get? (IF "DID", SKIP TO Q. 10) 9e. What fiber content did you buy? (IF RESPONDENT ANSWERS ANYTHING OTHER THAN FIBER CONTENT, READ: Fabric can be made from fibers such as cotton, wool, rayon or acetate, nylon, polyester, or blends of these fibers) (REPEAT THE QUESTION) 9f. Why did you buy (fiber)?

    10. When you bought this last piece of fabric for spring or summer clothing did you buy the pattern first and then the fabric, did you buy the fabric first and then the pattern, or what?

    11. Now, I'm going to read a list of things which may or may not generally influence your buying decision for the type of fabric we have been discussing. Please tell me whether each generally has a lot of influence, a little influence, or no influence on you; Can be worn during several seasons; colors, patterns, designs; easy to sew or work with; reduced price; advertisements; friends or relatives; sales people; washability; sewing classes; fiber content; store displays; permanent or durable press finish; good value for the money; way fabric is made— such as knit or woven; does not wrinkle easily. (AFTER READING LIST, ASK:) Is there any- thing not mentioned that influences your decision? (IF ANYTHING ELSE, ASK:) A lot or a little?

    12. How many pieces, if any, of the fabric you bought since June 1971 were for fall or winter clothing of any kind? (IF "NONE", SKIP TO Q. 19)

    Now, I am going to ask you specific questions about the last piece of fabric you bought for fall or winter clothing . 13a. In what month did you buy it? 13b. What, if anything, has been made from it? 13c. For what age, for which sex, and for what general use was (article) made? 13d. (IF NOT USED YET, ASK:) What do you plan to make from it? 13e. For what age, for which sex, and for what general use will (article) be made?

    14a. Before shopping for the last piece of fabric you bought for fall or winter clothing , did you have in mind a fabric with a permanent press finish, a fabric without a permanent press finish, or neither one? (IF "NEITHER ONE", SKIP TO Q. 14d) 14b. Why did you want (kind had in mind)? 14c. Did you or did you not buy the kind you intended to get? (IF "DID", SKIP TO Q. 15a) 14d. Which did you buy? 14e. Why did you buy (kind bought)?

    15a. Did you have in mind a knit; a woven fabric; a pile, such as velvet or corduroy- or none of these? (IF "NONE OF THESE", SKIP TO Q. 15d) 15b. Why did vou want (kind had in mind)? 15c. Did you or did you not buy the kind you intended to get? (IF "DID", SKIP TO Q. 16a) 15d. Which did you buy? 15e. Why did you buy (kind bought)?

    16a. Did you or did you not have a particular fiber content in mind? (IF "DID NOT", SKIP TO Q. 16e) 16b. What fiber content did you have in mind? (IF RESPONDENT ANSWERS ANYTHING OTHER THAN FIBER CONTENT, READ: Fabric can be made from fibers such as cotton, wool, rayon or acetate, nylon, polyester, or blends of these fibers) (REPEAT THE QUESTION) 16c. Why did you buy (fiber)? 16d. Did you or did you not buy the fiber content you intended to get? (IF "DID", SKIP TO Q. 17) 16e. What fiber content did you buy? (IF RESPONDENT ANSWERS ANYTHING OTHER THAN FIBER CONTENT, READ: Fabric can be made from fibers such as cotton, wool, rayon or acetate, nylon, polyester, or blends of these fibers) (REPEAT THE QUESTION) 16f. Why did you buy (fiber)?

    17. When you bought this last piece of fabric for fall or winter clothing did you buy the pattern first and then the fabric, did you buy the fabric first and then the pattern, or what?

    18. Now, I'm going to read a list of things which may or may not generally influence your buying decision for the type of fabric we have been discussing for fall or winter clothing. Please tell me whether each generally has a lot of influence, a little influence, or no influence on you: Can be worn during several seasons; colors, patterns, designs; easy to sew or work with; reduced price; advertisements; friends or relatives; sales people; washability;

    66 sewing classes; fiber content; store displays; permanent or durable press finish; good value for the money; way fabric is made — such as knit or woven; does not wrinkle easily. (AFTER READING LIST, ASK:) Is there anything not mentioned that influences your decision? (IF ANYTHING ELSE, ASK:) A lot or a little?

    19. Why are the articles of clothing made rather than bought readymade? Are there any other reasons?

    20a. Do you make most of the articles of clothing yourself or does someone else make them for you? (IF "SELF", SKIP TO Q. 21a) 20b. Someone in the household or someone outside the house- hold?

    21a. Have you or have you not had any problems with fabric that you purchased since June 1971 that had a permanent press finish? (IF "HAVE NOT", SKIP TO Q. 22a) 21b. What were they? 21c. What was the fiber content?

    22a. It may be possible to have a permanent press process applied to articles of clothing made from 100% cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fiber. The results would be as good as or better than the permanent press available now on readymade clothing. Would you or would you not be interested in this process? (IF "WOULD", SKIP TO Q. 22c) 22b. Why not? 22c. What is the highest price you would be willing to pay to have the permanent press process applied to one article of clothing: Between 75c and $1.00, between $1.00 and $1.25, or between $1.25 and $1.50?

    23a. Have you or have you not heard of washable wool fabric? (IF "HAVE NOT HEARD", SKIP TO Q. 24) 23b. Have you or have you not used it? (IF "HAVE NOT USED", SKIP TO Q. 24) 23c. In general, have you or have you not been satisfied with it? (IF "HAVE", SKIP TO Q. 24) 23d. Why not?

    24. I am going to read a list of phrases that might be used to describe some or all of the different fiber contents we have selected that can be used in making fabric. As I read each phrase, please tell me whether or not you would associate it with (type of fiber content). Let's start with (phrase). Would you associate this phrase with (type of fiber content)? (ASK EACH OF THESE PHRASES: Can be worn during several seasons; variety of colors, patterns, designs; easy to sew or work with; absorbs moisture; looks good a long time; washability; good value for the money; wrinkles easily; spots or stains easily; shrinks; has to be ironed.) (REPEAT FOR EACH OF THESE FIBER CONTENTS SEPARATELY: Blend of polyester and cotton, 100% wool, 100% polyester, 100% rayon or acetate, 100% cotton.)

    25a. Which of the following fibers, if any, have you looked for when buying fabric since June 1971: Blend of polyester and cotton, 100% wool, 100% polyester, 100% rayon or acetate, 100% cotton? 25b. (FOR EACH FIBER LOOKED FOR, ASK:) Did you or did you not have any difficulty in finding what you wanted in (fiber)?

    CLASSIFICATION

    26. We're interested in a few things about you and the members of your household so we can compare buyers of fabric by the piece or the yard.

    Please tell me the first name, sex and age of each member who lives here. Let's start with you and give me the others from the oldest member down to the youngest. (INDICATE THE BUYERS OF FABRIC BY RECORDING AN "X" IN THE APPROPRIATE SPACE. IF YOU CANNOT DETERMINE THE BUYERS FROM THE ANSWER TO Q. B, ASK THE RESPONDENT)

    27. For statistical purposes we need to know which group your total household income is in. You should count all kinds of income such as wages, interest, dividends, income from any business, etc., for every member of your household living here. In which of these categories was the total household income in 1971 before taxes: Under $5,000; $5,000-$7 ,499;

    $7,500-$9,999; $10,000-$14 ,999 ; $15,000 and over?

    (IF THERE ARE NO BUYERS OF FABRIC, THANK PERSON AND TERMINATE INTERVIEW)

    28. What was the last grade you completed in school?

    67

    UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE POSTAGE AND FEES PAID WASHINGTON, D.C. 20250 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE AGR 101

    OFFICIAL BUSINESS FIRST CLASS PENALTY FOR PRIVATE USE, $300