Daylight Into the Bright Night

NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS

$3.99 VOLUME 76, NUMBER 17 JULY 10, 2020 DOUBLE ISSUE THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 75 YEARS Daylight into the Bright Night

With his Fall 2020 collection, Kevan Hall encourages clients to find joy in a new normal through shining brightly in his garments that were inspired by the beauty and wonder of the night sky. For additional styles, see page 2. ROCHELLE BRODIN

LEGAL TRADE EVENTS State Senate Bill Seeks INSIDE: As More Trade Shows to End Garment-Industry Where fashion gets down to business SM Go Online, Fashion Standard of Piece-Rate Pay Companies Also Seek By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Digital Alternatives A standard for how the garment industry pays sewers may be outlawed in California. SB 1399, the Garment Worker 3 9 By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Protection Act, was passed by the California Senate in a 25–11 vote on June 25. The bill seeks to guarantee a mini- While a few in-person trade events such as L.A. Market mum wage for garment workers and end the industry standard Textile Trends … p. 6 Week have reopened, many other high-profile happenings of the piece-rate system by which workers are paid by how have announced that their summer 2020 events have been many garments they produce during a shift. The bill is still Functional Fabric Fair goes virtual ... p. 8 canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The situation has in the legislative process but is scheduled to be submitted to Liberty Fairs on-site shows canceled ... p. 9 left many trade-show producers and vendors going virtual. the State Assembly on July 29 by the bill’s coauthor, Lorena Seeking alternatives to on-site events has pushed fashion Gonzalez, a Democrat who represents the 80th Assembly Dis- Retail sales ... p. 9 companies to develop new methods that can temporarily re- trict, which covers southern San Diego. Gonzalez is the chair place the in-person meeting. Italian denim brand Diesel is one of the Latino Legislative Caucus and helped raise the state Resource Guide ... p. 10 such company developing new meeting platforms. On June minimum wage in California. 25, it introduced Hyperoom.

➥ SB 1399 page 3 www.apparelnews.net ➥ Trade Events page 4 FASHION ROCHELLE BRODIN SARAH DEANNA, ANASTASSIJA MAKARENKO Kevan Hall Fall 2020 Elevates Fashion Into the Reaches of the Night Sky

Fashion in the time of coronavirus has experienced hardship, yet there has also been an Using beaded tulle that yielded a pattern similar to constellations in the sky, galaxy twill, enormous amount of hope generated during this difficult period. Kevan Hall has been at the crinkled cloqué that includes metallic accents, sequins and stretch crepe, Hall created striking forefront of protective-mask production and personal-protective-equipment enhancement for formalwear that relied on hues of lapis, navy, midnight, gunmetal, silver, raspberry, ruby and healthcare workers. He also has adhered to the fashion calendar by developing a new Fall 2020 charcoal—his favorite due to its seasonless characteristic. collection of formal garments. Inspired by the deep, dark midnight sky and its extraordinary “Sometimes I’ll have a concept and I’ll find things that fit into the concept. This time, as I sparkling starry elements, Hall wanted to unveil a collection that would afford elegance to his was shopping for textiles, I kept becoming attracted to things that looked like the galaxy, the clients as life goes on. night sky, the starry night,” he said. “I fell in love all over again with colors such as navy, lapis, “For me, even though people are trying to be safe and so many events have been canceled, midnight with touches of gunmetal and silver in some of the beading. There were also all the there are still those legacy moments where there is an opportunity for people to have something splashes of color, but the anchor is the beautiful sky.” beautiful, because the photographs are forever,” Hall said. Noting the continued importance of remaining safe, Hall also designed masks to comple- ment the garments. While the collection is available by appointment at his atelier and on kev- anhalldesigns.com, face coverings are also available through his KevanCares initiative, etsy. com/shop/KevanCares, which commits to donating one mask to an essential or frontline work- er for every protective piece that is sold. While grounded at home, after noticing a few of his favorite models posting to Instagram, Hall reached out and suggested they manage a shoot. He sent garments to the models—whom he has referred to as his “QuaranTeam”—comprising Sarah DeAnna and Anastassija Maka- renko of LA Models Runway and photographer Rochelle Brodine. The women delivered through a photo shoot that adhered to safety measures to thwart the spread of the coronavirus. “They were very conscious about the social distancing. They even set up the shoot with two IT separate dressing areas. There was a separate area where the photo shoot would be and where the clothes were,” Hall explained. “I made masks to go with some of the things that matched, and others were a classic black mask. I let them have fun with it, and they did a great job.” With this collection, Hall sees an opportunity for his clients to safely find joy again in life’s milestone moments. He encourages mindful planning for organizing smaller events, including La Lame, Exclusive supplier of stretch fabrics weddings, yet Hall also wants women to enjoy feeling special. “Maybe you do it with a few of your dearest and best, but you still want to have a beautiful presents dress for the mother or a fabulous dress for the bride. Maybe she doesn’t want a white or ivory gown. Maybe she wants something that looks more elevated or glamorous,” he said. “It’s creat- An Innovative New Collection of Knitted & Woven ing things that are beautiful for those legacy moments that will be photographed and go down in their memories forever.”—Dorothy Crouch Fabrics and Trims. Made in USA, Europe and Asia

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La Lame, Inc. 215 W. 40th Street 5th Floor, New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212-921-9770 Fax: 212-921-8167 Please Contact [email protected] www.lalame.com SARAH DEANNA, ANASTASSIJA MAKARENKO

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JULY 10, 2020 APPARELNEWS.NET INDUSTRY VOICES: FASHION Unprecedented Times. Unprecedented Learning. By Nick Verreos Contributing Writer Get tech savvy—quickly Communicate but do not overcomplicate During these extraordinary times, ev- A huge aspect of teaching remotely in- The best educators are also good communicators. Being eryone’s lives have been upended in many volves the savvy use of technology. How does an excellent communicator has become increasingly relevant ways. Like everything else, academia and an instructor show a fashion-drawing demon- and important in this Zoom academic age. Remember: You higher learning have been disrupted, forc- stration or conduct a patternmaking session might be an expert in your field, but those who you are teach- ing educators to come up with creative when the students are not hovering in front of ing are not, so work on being engaging and do not overcom- and diverse methods of teaching and you while taking notes? Instructors who have plicate. Keep it simple, or as simple as it can be, but always learning in this new remote environment. been new to this Zoom classroom environ- focus on the primary learning objectives. While much of the news is focusing on ment have quickly learned that they need to be more-traditional universities, as the co- technically prepared. For fashion education, High standards and realistic expectations chair of fashion design at the Fashion there are three things that are essential. Institute of Design & Merchandising, First, a laptop is necessary to act as your Whether teaching in a traditional setting or a remote naturally, my focus has been on how we main camera source; it becomes your new environment, an educator should always conduct class can adapt in the world of fashion educa- classroom. A second device, such as a cell in a professional manner. Consistently adhering to high tion. phone or iPad, works as your visual aid for standards when it comes to instruction also gives the stu- Fashion, and the fashion industry, your students. Positioned overhead or over dents a sense of security and reassurance that they are, thrive on adapting and looking into the Nick Verreos your shoulder, this additional camera allows indeed, still getting the highest standards of education future—what is fresh and new, what is the students to view your sketching demo or as in the traditional version. In tandem with having high the next? The COVID-19 pandemic has patternmaking instructions from a bird’s-eye standards, you should also have realistic expectations. added a wrinkle into what is normally the view and works as the perfect teacher’s aide. Remote teaching—and learning—is an adaptable expe- polished satin finish of the industry. In my Last, but not least, that secondary camera rience. As an instructor, you might have to reconfigure position, I have given much thought as to how we adapt to needs support via a tripod or boom-like contraption. While it your approach to a traditional demonstration that would the changing times, especially in a fashion academic field that does not need to be sophisticated, it just needs to get the job normally take place within a three-hour, in-studio session thrives on a tactile learning environment: How do we Zoom done. The laptop-phone-tripod tech trifecta can go far in help- and divide up the lectures in a way that can be engaging our way into fashion learning? ing make the remote in-studio class a success. and not tedious, allowing time for the students to digest Little did I know that five years ago, when my partner and the information. fellow co-chair David Paul and I started filming our fashion Be visually creative YouTube tutorial videos, that we were ahead of these unprec- Be patient edented times! It was certainly unbeknownst to me when I When teaching remotely, educators must remember that started filming those videos that they would become a sup- they are more limited in the scope of instruction. How do you My last tip involves patience—and lots of it. Remote porting source of fashion education in higher learning. While get—and keep—the attention of your students when they are teaching can be daunting, especially for instructors and the footage is all prerecorded, the time spent filming the vid- not physically there in front of you? Instantly, your normal educators who are completely new to this. Be patient eos, in addition to the hundreds of hours dedicated to editing, 3-D presentations become two dimensional and limit your with your students as well as yourself. Things may—and afforded a unique perspective and maybe some helpful advice ability to maintain the focus of the student. probably will—go awry. Technology can be a wicked regarding what could make for good remote teaching when it Visual aids will be essential in keeping everyone interested beast with major “mood swings”; one day everything comes to fashion. in your demonstration. Whether it is a class covering how to will work perfectly while the next you are spending an So, how do you turn a traditional curriculum into some- sketch fashion or create patterns for a bustier, the use of im- hour trying to unmute yourself. So, yes, remember to be thing that is taught remotely? The following information in- ages, PowerPoint presentations and videos will be essential patient. This is new for most of us, and adapting to this cludes tips that I feel are essential in creating a smooth transi- to relaying information in a creative and strategic way. In this new remote way of teaching and learning is surviving, tion from in-person to online education and what would nor- remote-teaching environment, more than ever—think visually and, in the end, could be very educational for students mally be taught in a studio environment. to support your verbal curriculum. and educators. ●

LEGAL

geles’ garment industry. SB 1399 Continued from page 1 “I see a lot of sewers as my family. It’s only fair to pay them The bill was introduced to the State Senate by Sen. María fair wages,” Ramirez said. “There’s a human element in how Elena Durazo. She represents the 24th district, which repre- clothes are made. It’s always been our philosophy for a brand sents East Los Angeles, parts of downtown Los Angeles and and now as a manufacturer to have mutual reciprocity. As we neighborhoods surrounding downtown. Durazo said that SB grow, we want you to grow as well in pay and benefits.” 1399 addresses longstanding grievances by garment workers Since Top Hand Manufacturing has been enjoying an up- against the piece-rate system, which has been used in garment tick in business this year because it manufactures personal manufacturing for decades. protective equipment, the company has been able to be gener- “I am grateful to my Senate colleagues for approving the ous. Ramirez said that a business owner’s skill can be judged Garment Worker Protection Act of 2020,” Durazo said. “It is on how the entrepreneur can find ways to continue to reward time that we demand better working conditions for women workers and safeguard their pay, even during tough times. and just hourly pay for garment workers who, when paid by Marissa Nuncio, director of the downtown Los Angeles– the piece, earn on average $5.15 per hour.” based Garment Worker Center, a cosponsor of SB 1399, The bill also closes what Durazo has criticized as a legal said that the bill would ensure that every company follow em- loophole. Retailers and companies who order apparel made in ployment laws of paying the minimum wage. She feels too California factories will be responsible for the wages of peo- many companies take advantage of not paying sewers suf- ple employed by contractors who produced the goods. During ficient amounts. past wage disputes, retailers have argued that contractors are “The piece-rate system in the garment industry is strongly solely responsible for wages for items sold at retailers’ stores. associated with the high level of wage-theft violations,” Nun- Labor advocates criticized the argument as allowing retailers cio said. to duck responsibility for paying garment workers’ wages. Nuncio maintained that increased enforcement is required Apparel-industry and business groups were strongly op- in a market where too many workers are not being paid ac- posed to the bill. The trade group California Fashion As- cording to what is legally required. In 2019, the state provided sociation and the California Chamber of Commerce called $16.3 million to the Garment Restitution Fund, which was SB 1399 a job killer. Ilse Metchek, CFA’s president, said that created by AB 633, a 1999 law passed so California garment the bill would crush opportunities for good sewers to make icy staff and executive team, said in a June 4 statement. She workers are guaranteed fair wages. more money. contended that California law already requires workers to be In 2021, the minimum wage is scheduled to increase to $15 “It means that good sewers won’t get a bonus. What they compensated at no less than minimum wage, she said. Even an hour in California. The higher wages are going to force have done is taken money away from the best of them. They if workers are being evaluated on a piece-rate system, law re- factory management to cut jobs for workers whose productiv- have penalized the expert sewers,” she said. quires that they be compensated at a minimum wage. Barrera ity is lagging, said Randy Youngblood, president of Apparel In an already struggling domestic apparel industry, also stated that the bill would force unreasonable standards Resources, a Yorba Linda, Calif.–headquartered consultancy Metchek feels that the bill will impede recovery. onto nonunion employers and would punish companies that that advocates for contractors to labor commissioners. “What they’ve done is penalize the legitimate shops,” she are not union. “You’re going to lose workers on margins,” Youngblood said. “It will drive more businesses underground.” Some manufacturers already pay their sewers minimum said. “The powers that be who have been agitating for mini- The California Chamber of Commerce has issued state- wage. Rodolfo Ramirez is co-owner of Top Hand Manu- mum wage didn’t have that in mind at all.” ments urging legislators to vote against SB 1399. The cham- facturing, located near downtown Los Angeles. It had been However, he forecasted that a need for domestic-apparel ber believes that the bill will not only increase costs and bu- paying the shop’s 12 sewers minimum wage since Ramirez production will continue. reaucratic burdens on California’s garment-manufacturing in- and his business partner, Andrew Cheung, acquired the fac- “I’m convinced that sewing trades will survive domestical- dustry but will also duplicate law that is already on the books. tory from the previous owner in 2019. ly because the manufacturers are so close to market,” he said. “Eliminating this form of payment is unnecessary,” Jenni- Ramirez and Cheung also started the brand Pocket Square “Everyone is trying to compress the time from manufacturer’s fer Barrera, executive vice president of the CalChamber pol- Clothing. Both of their mothers worked as sewers in Los An- design to the cash register.” ●

APPARELNEWS.NET JULY 10, 2020 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3 TRADE EVENTS

High-quality Hyperoom platform entrance and exhibit of Diesel Holiday styles Trade Events Continued from page 1 product.” White stressed that Cotton Heritage in- reporting available “One must look for silver linings when- tends to exhibit at in-person trade shows once ever and wherever possible,” said Massimo the events run again. However, the company Piombini, Diesel’s chief executive officer. has been developing its virtual-meeting pro- to you in your “2020 has sparked an urgency to accelerate tocol for a while. Many buyers have been what we can offer and accomplish in the digi- requesting virtual meetings in the past few tal space.” years. The COVID-19 crisis simply impelled Diesel executives invite buyers to visit Cotton Heritage to try out the digital proto- format of choice Hyperoom’s digital showrooms, which offer col. three-dimensional displays of Diesel collec- “This puts us with our customers in the tions with two-dimensional closeups of items way they want to work. This is our world The voice of California’s apparel with product descriptions. now,” White said. “We’re not going to walk Buyers can make orders on the platform away from trade shows. The interaction with industry since 1945, the California through a live chat with a Diesel represen- new customers at trade shows means more tative. The representative handles the vir- than anything to us.” Apparel News serves the largest tual meeting like a trade-show appointment, Cotton Heritage sales representatives and showing off the collection and, if the meeting executives have held detailed discussions apparel center in the country and goes well, taking an order. of how Zoom meetings should be handled. Cotton Heritage, a premium apparel- Technical issues of how to connect have been includes numerous special sections blanks company headquartered in Com- handled along with tips on how to make sales merce, Calif., has developed a new meeting representatives’ home offices look a bit like on trade shows, technology, procedure for retailers and companies who showrooms. However, the success of these may not want to take a live meeting, said virtual meetings is not guaranteed, said Dean sourcing, supply chain, fiber & Ken White, Cotton Heritage’s vice presi- De Costa, a Cotton Heritage sales representa- dent of sales. The virtual meeting proce- tive who handles the company’s accounts in fabric, sustainability, and more. dures were announced at the beginning of such locales as Orange County, Calif., Cali- July, with the first meetings taking place the fornia’s Central Coast and the Pacific North- week of July 6. west. With this new protocol, Cotton Heritage’s “It’s uncharted waters for us. The ben- staff encourages buyers to schedule a meet- efit is that it will allow us to reach out and ing with a Cotton Heritage representative on connect with customers in a more personal the scheduling app Calendly. Once a meet- way compared to a phone call,” De Costa ing is confirmed, buyers talk to a Cotton said. Heritage representative through the Zoom It’s also not guaranteed that every buyer video-conferencing platform. The first Zoom will feel comfortable handling business on- meeting is basically a 15-minute meet-and- line. greet to find out what categories of blanks Fraser Ross of the Los Angeles–headquar- interest the buyer. tered boutique company Kitson said that he Once the interests in blanks are confirmed, would prefer to see new lines at an in-person Cotton Heritage delivers samples to the buyer trade show. He has not made orders at a vir- and schedules a longer meeting over Zoom. tual trade show because he had questions “The key is to get product in the custom- about privacy at these meetings. As a buyer ers’ hands,” White said. “Our T-shirts are in a competitive field, he did not want rivals known for having a great hand and a great to know what he was ordering. “Will there printability. So even people in lockdown be 12 people on these Zoom meetings?” he mode should be able to interact with the joked. ● Apparel News Group POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, The New Mart FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Waterwear­ ®, New 127 E. Ninth St., Ste. 806 York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Proper- Los Angeles, CA 90015 ties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., The New Mart, 127 E. Ninth St., Suite 806, Los Angeles, CA 90015, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2020 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub­lished weekly except semi-weekly second week of July. (213) 627-3737 Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume www.apparelnews.net responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $3.99. 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4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JULY 10, 2020 APPARELNEWS.NET FIBRETR CE every f bre tells a story TEXTILE TRENDS Untamed Threads Falling for Patterns Still wild about animal prints, fashion is maintaining Seasonal patterns include paisley, geometric shapes, re- its dedication to designs that honor the beauty of creatures fined twills, plaids and—still—tie-dye in autumnal hues of such as leopards, tigers, cheetahs, snakes and zebras. sienna, cranberry, milk chocolate and royal blue.

Cinergy Textiles, Inc.

Asher Fabric Concepts Cinergy Textiles, Inc. Texollini Cinergy Textiles, Inc. Confetti Fabrics

Confetti Fabrics

Cinergy Textiles, Inc. Novatex International Robert Kaufman Fabrics FCN Textiles Philips Boyne Corporation Philips Boyne Corporation

Robert Kaufman Fabrics Tiss et Teint Zinman Textiles Ltée. Philips Boyne Corporation Texollini Zinman Textiles Ltée. Deep Into Denim Gilded and Glittering Ubiquitous, yet a crucial component of the elements of Whether taking center stage on a golden garment or sim- style, denim returns to blue-jean basics in mid-wash or dark- ply enhancing a textured fabric with flecks of glittery accents, er, with grays and black gaining momentum. shining brightly in gold or glitter adds joy to any occasion.

Twin Dragon Denim Mills

FCN Textiles La Lame, Inc. Zinman Textiles Ltée.

Global Denim Global Denim

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NK Textile Solid Stone Fabrics Solid Stone Fabrics

Orta Anadolu Twin Dragon Denim Mills Orta Anadolu Solid Stone Fabrics Solstiss Zinman Textiles Ltée.

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JULY 10, 2020 APPARELNEWS.NET TEXTILE TRENDS

The garden of floral textiles regenerates in autumn with an array of flowery fabrics Daring Delicates Botanic Blends that includes dainty daisies in mustard and crimson or fall foliage in cool blues. Often a signature of old-world charm, lace retains its classic appeal yet transforms in bright colors and updated patterns that renew the look of this traditional textile.

Bennet Silks Cinergy Textiles, Inc. Confetti Fabrics

Bella Tela Ltd. Solstiss Bella Tela Ltd.

Cinergy Textiles, Inc. La Lame, Inc. R.C. International Fabrics Inc.

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Solstiss Solstiss Solstiss Confetti Fabrics Robert Kaufman Fabrics Robert Kaufman Fabrics

Creating chic garments relies on black and Beyond Black white or tiny pops of color that allow geo- metric patterns, animal prints, unique prints and White or updated stripes to tell the story.

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Kalimo / Studio Lab K Robert Kaufman Fabrics Tiss et Teint Confetti Fabrics Confetti Fabrics R.C. International Fabrics Inc.

DIRECTORY Asher Fabric Concepts Kalimo / Studio Lab K Robert Kaufman Fabrics (323)-268-1218 (213) 628-3953 (800) 877-2066 www.asherconcepts.com www.kalimo.com.br www.robertkaufman.com Bella Tela Ltd. La Lame, Inc. Solid Stone Fabrics (323) 376-9615 (212) 921-9770 (276) 634-0115 www.johnchristophertextiles.com www.lalame.com www.solidstonefabrics.com Bennet Silks NK Textile Solstiss (323) 376-9615 (949) 680-4743 (212) 719-9194 Solstiss Robert Kaufman Fabrics Solid Stone Fabrics www.johnchristophertextiles.com www.nktextile.com www.solstiss.com Cinergy Textiles, Inc. Novatex International Texollini (213) 748-4400 (323) 583-8803 (310) 537-3400 www.cinergytextiles.com novatex-perforating.com www.texollini.com Confetti Fabrics Orta Anadolu Tiss et Teint (704) 724-2269 +90 (212) 315-3200 (323) 376-9615 www.confettitextile.com ortaanadolu.com www.johnchristophertextiles.com FCN Textiles Philips Boyne Corporation Twin Dragon Denim Mills (323) 376-9615 (631) 755-1230 (310) 715-7070 www.johnchristophertextiles.com www.philipsboyne.com twindragonmarketing.com Global Denim R.C. International Fabrics Inc. Zinman Textiles Ltée. +52 (55) 53-58-49-09 (213) 744-0777 514-276-2597 www.globaldenim.com.mx/en www.rcfab.net www.zinmantex.com

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APPARELNEWS.NET JULY 10, 2020 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7 TRADE EVENTS

Fast Reliable Virtual Functional Fabric Fair Series to Launch With Mindful Trade-Show Mission

By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor and not always be about the bottom line or ‘How do I get ahead?’” The Functional Fabric Fair Powered by Within the current climate, Bowler is forg- Performance Days is preparing to launch its ing conversations regarding inclusivity in the virtual offering as digital trade events gain fashion and trade-show spaces, which she momentum due to COVID-19 cancellations of hopes will inspire attendees to consider and physical shows. Hosted July 20-23, Reed Ex- implement actionable, progressive changes hibitions’ Functional Fabric Fair will unveil within their businesses. A session titled “So- the Expert Talks Live Webinar Series online cial Impact Is the New Black: Where the fash- Flexible ERP with a 12-session schedule covering topics ion and apparel industry is going wrong with such as “Microfiber Analysis for More-Sus- diversity” will feature commentary from Brit- Apparel Software tainable Product Development,” “Verification tany Sierra, founder of Portland’s The Sustain- and Validation: Communicating Sustainabil- able Fashion Forum, and Gus Harris, who is ity Efforts to Consumers,” and “Sustainable the director of product design and sourcing at Sourcing and Supply-Chain Management” by Mizzen+Main and will share the company’s Run your business the way YOU want. the Hohenstein Institute; “Collaboration Is perspectives as Black fashion professionals. Key” with the American Association of Tex- “Brittany Sierra has learned so much in the PERFECT FIT is built upon a fast and tile Chemists and Colorists and “Inspired by space and grown an incredible following to Nature: The Evolution of Sport & Textile” become a leader in educating consumers and reliable cloud database. with designer Nora Kühner. brands regarding the direction we are going “I want each session to spark an idea,” Mar- with sustainability,” Bowler said. “It’s impor- keting and Industry Development Director tant to have that diverse voice because it is a Serving the apparel industry Chadaé Bowler explained. “Even though conversation that hasn’t really been amplified for 34 years. our series covers sustainability and the focus enough to include the Black community.” topic, which is ‘Inspired by Nature,’ I want Tactile experiences are crucial to the ap- them to walk away with something valuable parel industry, an important point that Bowl- that helps them become more sustainable or er still considers when planning events. With Please contact us for an collaborate with a speaker.” an on-site trade-show foundation, she does For Bowler, organizing a digital strategy see an opportunity to build additional virtual online demonstration. means more than simply trying to fill the time components in the future. that would have been occupied by the July “This audience is very smart. Because it is www.perfectfit.net 20–21 Functional Fabric Fair at the Javits a technical audience and our messaging for the Center in New York City. overall series is not so much how to survive the 415-821-6300 “It is really important for me to put my COVID-19 pandemic, it’s how we can create a customers first, but, for me, my customers more-sustainable future in fashion,” she said. [email protected] aren’t just the people on the other side of the “Our physical events have to have some virtual screen,” she said. “It’s really important, for aspect, whether a livestream or virtual show- the relationships, to have these conversations rooms. I am exploring all those options.” ●

Get Inspired! Hundreds of Stocked Novelty Knits, Wovens, Linings and More! One Roll Minimum. www.cinergytextiles.com Tel: 213-748-4400 [email protected]

Apparel News Group CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR PUBLISHED BY LOUISE DAMBERG TLM PUBLISHING INC. DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING APPAREL NEWS GROUP TERRY MARTINEZ Publishers of: California Apparel News SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE 751945-2020 Waterwear AMY VALENCIA Decorated Seventy-five years of news, fashion and information ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE LYNNE KASCH EXECUTIVE OFFICE The New Mart BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT CEO/PUBLISHER MOLLY RHODES 127 E. Ninth St., Suite 806 TERRY MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90015 SALES & MARKETING ASSISTANT/ (213) 627-3737 RECEPTIONIST www.apparelnews.net CHLOË HULETT MANAGING EDITOR [email protected] DOROTHY CROUCH ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS RETAIL EDITOR CHRIS MARTIN Printed in the U.S.A. ANDREW ASCH RACHEL MARTINEZ CONTRIBUTORS SALES ASSISTANT VOLKER CORRELL PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY KEVAN HALL CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TIM REGAS JEFFERY YOUNGER ROXY STARR NICK VERREOS PRODUCTION MANAGER KENDALL IN WEB PRODUCTION MORGAN WESSLER FINANCE DAVID MARTINEZ

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JULY 10, 2020 APPARELNEWS.NET NEWS Inside the Industry

Liberty Fairs Cancels Late-Summer Shows, Names New Exec Virgil Abloh, artistic director of The Liberty Fairs contemporary trade through the end of this year remains unclear ited at past Liberty Fairs include Karl Lager- Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection shows scheduled to take place in Las Vegas even as we closely monitor reopening time- feld Paris, John Varvatos, the domestically and chief executive officer of the Off- in August and New York City in September lines and border restrictions.” made denim brand Railcar Fine Goods, the White fashion label, announced July 9 have been canceled due to the COVID-19 In place of the in-person Liberty Fairs, the heritage leather outerwear company Schott that he had raised $1 million for schol- pandemic, according to an announcement trade-show company will produce a digital NYC and the knits brand Vince. arships for Black students. The Virgil made July 8 to the high-end shows’ vendors event in partnership with the wholesale plat- Liberty Fairs’ sibling trade show, Ca- Abloh “Post-Modern” Scholarship Fund and buyers. form Joor. The Liberty Fairs Virtual Mar- bana, has also canceled its in-person trade will be managed in partnership with “We believe it is our ethical responsibility ketplace is scheduled to make its debut on event in Miami Beach, Fla., this month. In its the New York–headquartered Fashion to revisit physical trade shows at a safer time Aug. 3. place it will run a virtual trade show July 20. Scholarship Fund. Abloh named the ini- and with the best practices in place, and so we Liberty Fairs has been running a biannual Along with its trade-show announce- tiative “Post-Modern” because recipi- are looking toward 2021 with high hopes,” Las Vegas trade show since 2013. It focus- ments, Liberty Fairs also announced a new ents will not only receive funds but will the Liberty statement read. “The decision es on menswear ranging from streetwear to executive, Edwina Kulego, who was named also be given career support services was made with our community’s health and denim to suiting. Over the years, Liberty has Liberty Fairs’ vice president. Kulego former- and mentoring. “I’ve always been pas- safety in mind. In the wake of the COVID-19 also showcased women’s styles, accessories ly served as international sales director for sionate about giving the next generation pandemic, the future of group gatherings and other products. Brands that have exhib- Informa Markets.—Andrew Asch of students the same foundation for suc- cess that was given to me,” Abloh said. “That’s why I’m excited to launch this fund in partnership with the FSF, which Trinidad3 and Vidalia Mills Launch American Selvedge has an outstanding track record of help- During the United States’ Fourth of July Mills, creating a textile on the same machines Vidalia Mills, undertaking this project was ing college students achieve successful celebration last weekend, Los Angeles–based, that once yielded White Oak denim, is a an experience he valued as more than simply careers.” military veteran–founded Trinidad3 Jeans facet of the project that Trinidad Garcia III, making denim. unveiled its selvedge partnership with Loui- the brand’s founder and former U.S.M.C. “It’s such an honor to work with Trinidad Informa Markets Fashion recently siana textile maker Vidalia Mills. Following sergeant, finds extraordinary and in which he and Joe on this amazing project—they truly announced that it would cancel several the July 4 launch, demand skyrocketed, and takes great pride. understand quality and appreciate the finest of its in-person trade shows scheduled certain sizes sold out, so the brand quickly “We knew we wanted to be able to have a details,” he said. “They are passionately mak- to run in New York City in September moved to create more product. classic feel and character to the jean, but we ing great product and changing veterans’ lives due to continuing concerns over CO- “We have been making more to keep up didn’t want to just make something that was at the same time.” VID-19. Among the in-person shows with demand all week,” said brand partner run of the mill, so to speak,” Garcia III said. Trinidad3’s values connect consumers and canceled are Project New York’s Sept. and United States Marine Corps. veteran “We had to have our touches, our thoughts veterans of the United States Armed Forces. 22–24 run and the Coterie trade show, Joe Lafko. “I’ve made so many runs to the and our personal heritage ingrained in it. It The brand’s longtime model, actor and vet- which was also scheduled to run con- UPS Store that they gave me my own corner preaches our story to the world, and we’re eran Rudy Reyes, appears in the campaign for currently. The Coterie cancellation in- to put all of our boxes in so I can get in and stoked to be able to bring this to life after Trinidad3’s New American Selvedge. Trini- cludes trade events Fame, Sole Com- out more quickly!” months and months of development.” dad3 is also known for providing financial merce and Moda, said Nancy Walsh, This New American Selvedge jean relies From farm to finished piece, the collec- support from the brand’s profits to veterans’ president of Informa Markets Fashion. on the work of Vidalia’s antique Draper X3 tion relies on domestic resources. Farmed in groups such as Merging Vets and Players. The Coterie team will produce a digital looms and includes details that speak to the Texas and Louisiana, the cotton used to cre- Available online at trinidad3.com, the trade show scheduled for Sept. 1. Trinidad3 brand, including its signature red- ate the selvedge-denim fibers is grown from New American Selvedge collection is sold in bar tack on the left seam. The link to Ameri- BASF sustainable E3 cottonseed. For Eric sizes 28 through 40 at a retail price point of Supima, the nonprofit that represents can heritage through working with Vidalia Goldstein, business development leader at $185.—Dorothy Crouch U.S.-grown American Pima cotton, an- nounced July 9 the final line-up of de- signers for its 13th Annual Supima Cot- ton Design Competition. The competi- tion calls for student designers to create NPD Survey Shows Extent of Digital-Commerce Growth capsule collections by using fabrics An increase in digital shopping could have line shopping out of necessity, and the result development of customer-service practices made from Supima cotton. The student been predicted during the COVID-19 pandem- was a stronger connection with the apparel would be necessary to attract consumers. collections will be presented and judged ic. The NPD Group released survey results on consumer,” she said. “Consumers have em- “Online shopping is one of many new in a digital runway show in September. July 9 that reveals the size of the online shift. braced new shopping habits.” behaviors and routines developed while un- Student designers selected to compete The New York market-research company Bricks-and-mortar stores have been slowly der stay-at-home restrictions that are likely are Amanda Forastieri of Drexel Uni- found that more than half of survey respon- reopening; however, they have to follow new to have some staying power, but bricks- versity, Sakura Mizutani of the Fashion dents said that more than 50 percent of their rules to ensure safety. In a May survey, almost and-mortar retail can continue to bridge the Institute of Design & Merchandising, planned apparel purchases for June would one-third of consumers told NPD that they consumer confidence gap with things like Jenny Feng of the Fashion Institute of be made online, said Maria Rugolo, an NPD would be uncomfortable shopping bricks- improved contactless services, sanitizing Technology, Jennie Nguyen of Kent apparel-industry analyst. and-mortar spaces after shelter-at-home or- practices and personal appointments,” Ru- State University, Terrence Zhou of “The pandemic forced an increase in on- ders were relaxed. Rugolo suggested further golo said.—A.A. the Parsons School of Design and Koa Buenviaje of the Rhode Island School of Design. RETAIL Boohoo, a prominent United King- dom fast-fashion retailer, has been ac- Levi’s, Macy’s Sales Results Reflect Ongoing COVID-19 Challenges cused of wage theft. The British news- paper The Sunday Times investigated By Andrew Asch Retail Editor closed around the world for the majority the year, which ended May 2. Net sales were Boohoo and alleged that the retailer of the quarter,” Bergh said. “I’m proud of $3.017 billion, down more than 45 percent was paying sewers the U.S. equivalent Levi Strauss & Co. and Macy’s Inc. re- how the team stepped up, accelerating our compared to $5.5 billion in the first fiscal of $4.40 per hour, well below the UK’s cently released results from the past financial activation of key e-commerce and omni- quarter of 2019. The company reported an minimum wage. On July 8, Boohoo’s quarter, which was dominated by store clo- channel capabilities, proactively cutting earnings per share loss of $11.53. Macy’s board released a statement that it has re- sures due to the pandemic. costs, and managing cash smartly—and withdrew its 2020 sales and earnings guid- quested an independent investigator to On July 7, denim giant Levi’s announced finding innovative ways to connect the ance and declined to provide an updated out- review its supply chain. a net loss for the quarter of $364 million, Levi’s brand with its fans.” look. which included restructuring charges, inven- Like many colleagues, Macy’s has been During a July 1 call with analysts, Gen- Sanuk, a footwear division of the tory costs and other charges related to the dealing with store closures caused by the nette said that Macy’s Inc.’s digital busi- Deckers Brand, headquartered in Go- COVID-19 economic freeze. Its net revenues COVID-19 pandemic. Macy’s closed all of ness showed resilience. “The digital half of leta, Calif., released its SustainaSole declined 62 percent to $498 million com- its 775 stores in March and started reopening our business has shown very strong perfor- collection of vegan footwear on July pared to $1.3 billion in the same quarter the them in late May. All except six locations are mances, and we expect this to continue at a 9. Sanuk said the SustainaSole is previous year. back in business, albeit operating at reduced healthy double-digit growth rate through the the most eco-friendly offering in the Because of the economic freeze, the den- hours, Jeff Gennette, chairman and chief ex- back half of the year,” he said. brand’s 23-year-history. In the past, im giant would lay off 700 people, or about ecutive officer, said. This type of retail downturn is not unique chemical foams to provide comfort 15 percent of nonretail and nonmanufactur- As part of a restructuring plan to deal with as every retailer deemed nonessential was and foot support were heavily used ing workforces, said Chip Bergh, president the COVID-19 economic slowdown, Macy’s forced to close during the first quarter of this by the industry. Sanuk partnered with and chief executive officer. But, according to announced that it would eliminate 3,900 jobs year. The toll taken by the pandemic was ex- foam-sole manufacturer Blumaka to Bergh, an annualized savings of $100 million in its corporate and management sectors. hibited in the NRF’s “2020 Top 100 Retail- integrate its recycled-foam technol- is expected from the downsizing move. These expected job cuts and its restructuring ers List,” which was also released on July 1. ogy into the SustainaSole collection. “We started the year with strong mo- would contribute to savings of $365 million Some 16 of the retailers are apparel focused, It features slip-on silhouettes such as mentum, but the global pandemic and this year. though the announcement also noted that the woman’s Donna and Chiba. Both economic crises had a significant negative The jobs-cuts announcement on June two of the retailers, Neiman Marcus and styles retail for $65. impact on our second-quarter results as 25 was a harbinger of the July 1 announce- J.C. Penney Company, Inc., announced our stores and most wholesale doors were ment of results for the first fiscal quarter of bankruptcy this year. ●

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