DOCSLIB.ORG

Information to Users

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Information to Users INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6" x 9" black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. UMI University Microfilms International A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 Nortti Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 USA 313/761-4700 800/521-0600 Order Number 9201759 An artifact study of Harmonist patterned silk textiles, 1826-1852 Swinker, Mary Elizabeth, Ph.D. The Ohio State University, 1991 Copyright ©1991 by Swinker, Mary Elizabeth. All rights reserved. UMI 300 N. Zeeb Rd, Ann Aibor, MI 48106 AN ARTIFACT STUDY OF HARMONIST PATTERNED SILK TEXTILES, 1826-1852 DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Mary Elizabeth Swinker, B.A., M.A. ***** The Ohio State University 1991 Dissertation Committee: Approved by: Dr. Lucy R. Sibley Dr. Kathryn A. Jakes Co-Advisor^ Dr. John C. Messenger Dr. Hazel 0. Jackson -Advisor ^nt of Te^iles id Clothirig College of Human Ecology Copyright by Mary Elizabeth Swinker 1991 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS My appreciation to my co-advisors, Dr. Lucy Sibley and Dr. Kathryn A. Jakes goes beyond the hours of work they put in reading, commenting, and meeting with me to complete this project. They made my Ph.D. program more than courses, tests, and a dissertation by involving me in challenging and exciting research projects. Special thanks to Dr. Sibley for involving me in the Etowah research projects and Dr. Jakes for stimulating my interest in Textile Science . To my committee Dr. John C. Messenger and Dr. Hazel 0. Jackson I extend my sincere thanks for their interest and help during the dissertation process. Thanks to Laura Adkins for all her statistical help. She persevered to find the best way to analyze the data. Her interest in the project and hard work with the analysis are greatly appreciated. To Donald Smith and Tom Coulton of Hunter Associates Laboratory, Inc. I extend my sincere thanks for the loan of a HunterLab Miniscan. Appreciation goes to Mr. Raymond V. Shepherd and his staff at Old Economy Village for supporting my research project. Special thanks goes to Ruth Hahn, Pat Leiphart, ii Pat Belich, and Cleo Bronaugh for making me feel welcome and at home at Old Economy. My appreciation for the 1990 Graduate Scholarship goes to the Pennsylvania Home Economics Association and for the Mary Lapitsky Graduate Fellowship to the Department of Textiles and Clothing, The Ohio State University. The monies helped defray the cost of this project. Special thanks goes to Dr. Harold E. Wingard, Dean of the College of Human Ecology and Health Sciences at Indiana University of Pennsylvania, for supporting my three year leave request and the Doctoral Faculty Support Grant request. I would also like to acknowledge my colleagues in the Consumer Services Department at Indiana University of Pennsylvania. Their support and encouragement was greatly appreciated. Special thanks goes to Joan C. Schmitt who has been my link to Indiana and who did countless errands for me. To two fellow graduate students Jean D. Hines and Cheunsoon A. Song I extend my appreciation for their friendship and help throughout this endeavor. We shared the "tears" and "cheers" of this program. I'm glad we went through it together. Thanks goes to my family, my brothers Bob, John, and Bill, my sister Patty, my sister-in-law Linda and my brother-in-law Mark. They offered encouragement and love iii throughout the program. A special thanks to John who unselfishly gave up his free time to help me move. Thanks also goes to my nephews Mark, Andy, and Michael and my niece Christine who were forgiving when I missed their special days. Most importantly, I want to extend my love and thanks to my parents who were the guiding force in my completing this degree. Their love for me and faith in my ability was the support I needed throughout this endeavor. I dedicate this work to them. IV VITA 1975 ........................ B.A. Notre Dame College of Ohio, South Euclid, Ohio. 1975-1976.................... Adult Vocational Education Teacher, East Liverpool School District, East Liverpool, Ohio. 1977-197 8.................... Graduate Teaching Assistant, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Kent State University, Kent, Ohio. 1 9 7 8 ........................ M.A. Kent State University, Kent, Ohio. 1978-1979 .................... Instructor, Home Economics Department, University of Minnesota, Duluth, Duluth, Minnesota. 1979- ........................ Assistant Professor, Consumer Services Department, Indiana University of Pennsylvania, Indiana, Pennsylvania. 1988-1991.................... Graduate Research Associate, Department of Textiles and Clothing, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio. FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Textiles and Clothing Historic and Archaeological Textiles Minor Field: Anthropology TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .................................... ü VITA ................................................ V LIST OF T A B L E S...................... » ............. ix LIST OF FIGURES...................................... xii LIST OF P L A T E S...................................... xv CHAPTER p a g e I. INTRODUCTION.............................. 1 Problem Statement.................... 2 Purpose.............................. 11 Limitations to the Study.............. 12 Definitions............ 14 II. RELATED LITERATURE........................ 16 Communal Societies.................... 16 The Harmony Society, 1804-1824........ 20 The Harmony Society, 1824-1905........ 27 Silk Cultivation Industry in America. 39 Silk Manufacturing Industry in America. 43 Silk Production at Economy............ 47 Chemical Structure of Silk and Properties.................. 55 Silk Cultivation and Manufacturing. 57 Design in Silk Textiles.............. 62 Theoretical Framework................ 66 Research Hypotheses .................. 69 Hypothesis...................... 69 Sub-hypothesis 1 . 70 Sub-hypothesis 2............ 70 VI CHAPTER PAGE III. METHODOLOGY................................ 71 Part I: Analysis of Harmonist Textiles. 72 Samp l e .......................... 72 Data Collection Instrument .... 73 M e t h o d .......................... 74 Fiber Assessment............ 74 Yarn Structure.............. 76 Fabric Weave Structure. 76 G r a i n ...................... 76 Fabric Thickness............ 78 Fabric Count................ 78 Fabric Width................ 79 Selvage W i d t h .............. 79 Placement of M o t i f s........ 80 Coloration.................. 80 Data Collection on Site.......... 82 Data Collection in Laboratory. 84 Data Analysis.................... 85 Part II; Documentary Correspondence . 87 S a m p l e .......................... 87 Data Collection Instrument .... 88 Data Analysis.................... 88 IV. PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION FOR PART 1...................... 89 Part I: Analysis of Harmonist Textiles. 90 S a m p l e.......................... 90 Physical Attributes.............. 92 F i b e r ...................... 92 Discussion............ 95 Yarn........................ 96 Discussion............ 100 Fabric Structure............ 101 Fabric Design .............. 121 Discussion............ 140 Testing Sub-hypothesis 1 ........ 148 Discussion.................. 156 V l l CHAPTER PAGE V. PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION FOR PART I I .................... 161 Part II: Documentary Correspondence . 162 S a mple.......................... 162 Testing Sub-hypothesis 2 ........ 167 Cultivation................ 168 Manufacturing .............. 171 Legislation................ 173 Exhibition.................. 175 Information Acquisition . 177 Discussion.................. 178 VI. INTERPRETATION OF FINDINGS................ 179 VII. SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS................ 195 Summary.............................. 195 Recommendations...................... 205 APPENDICES A. Definitions................................ 208 B. Articles of Association.................... 216 C. American Silk Manufacturers, 1829-1839 . 219 D. Catalog of Harmonist Pattern S i l k s ........ 222 E. Worksheet: Textile Examination Record. 231 F. Worksheet: Harmonist Correspondence........ 235 G. Pattern Design Plates...................... 238 H. Plots of Variances........................ 259 I. Results of F-tests.......................
Load more

Recommended publications
  • The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society
    The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society Heather Langford Theses submitted for the degree of Master of Arts Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Centre of Asian Studies University of Adelaide May 2009 ii Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the research requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Centre of Asian Studies School of Humanities and Social Sciences Adelaide University 2009 iii Table of Contents 1. Introduction.........................................................................................1 1.1. Literature Review..............................................................................13 1.2. Chapter summary ..............................................................................17 1.3. Conclusion ........................................................................................19 2. Background .......................................................................................20 2.1. Pre Han History.................................................................................20 2.2. Qin Dynasty ......................................................................................24 2.3. The Han Dynasty...............................................................................25 2.3.1. Trade with the West............................................................................. 30 2.4. Conclusion ........................................................................................32 3. Textiles and Technology....................................................................33
    [Show full text]
  • Classifying Textile
    Classifying textile In this detailed guide you can find definitions of common garments, clearly explained. While it may seem complex at first glance, you should check the attributes of the garments to ensure that they are being correctly classified. Often a small feature or point of difference will mean classifying your garments in a different classification code than you may otherwise assume. Classifying garments for the upper parts of the body ..............................................................................................1 Classifying garments for the lower parts of the body...............................................................................................5 Classifying dresses..................................................................................................................................................5 Classifying suits and ensembles ..............................................................................................................................6 Classifying clothing accessories...............................................................................................................................7 Classifying specialist clothing..................................................................................................................................7 Classifying garments for the upper parts of the body Blouses and shirt-blouses Shirts and shirt blouses are classified under heading codes 6106 (if knitted or crocheted) or 6206. They are defined as garments: • designed
    [Show full text]
  • Spring/Summer 2019
    SPRING/SUMMER 2019 CLASSIC ROLL UP GOSSAMER INTRODUCING THE... B166 B176 4” UPTURN BRIM & ROUND CROWN 3 1/2” MEDIUM BRIM & ROUND CROWN GOSSAMER MINI Adjustable Sweatband, UPF 50+ Sun Protection Adjustable Sweatband, UPF 50+ Sun Protection B1899H 50% Paper, 33% Polypropylene, 17% Polyester 50% Paper, 33% Polypropylene, 17% Polyester 3 1/4” MEDIUM BRIM & ROUND CROWN Auburn Sand, Black, Denim Multi, White: 45% Paper, 35% Polypropylene, 20% Polyester Auburn Sand, Black, Denim Multi, White: SPRING/SUMMER 2019 Adjustable Sweatband, UPF 50+ Sun Protection 45% Paper, 35% Polypropylene, 20% Polyester 50% Paper, 33% Polypropylene, 17% Polyester Auburn Sand, Black, Confetti, Denim Multi, White: 45% Paper, 35% Polypropylene, 20% Polyester OCEAN AUBURN SAND DENIM MULTI BLACK MULTI AUBURN SAND CONFETTI DENIM MULTI AUBURN SAND BLACK BLACK MULTI BLACK BLACK MULTI TROPICAL MULTI ECRU WHITE NATURAL CONFETTI ECRU NATURAL ECRU NATURAL NAVY RATTLESNAKE WHITE DENIM MULTI BLACK RATTLESNAKE RATTLESNAKE TRUE RED WHITE CLASSIC ROLL UP GOSSAMER INTRODUCING THE... B166 B176 4” UPTURN BRIM & ROUND CROWN 3 1/2” MEDIUM BRIM & ROUND CROWN GOSSAMER MINI Adjustable Sweatband, UPF 50+ Sun Protection Adjustable Sweatband, UPF 50+ Sun Protection B1899H 50% Paper, 33% Polypropylene, 17% Polyester 50% Paper, 33% Polypropylene, 17% Polyester 3 1/4” MEDIUM BRIM & ROUND CROWN Auburn Sand, Black, Denim Multi, White: 45% Paper, 35% Polypropylene, 20% Polyester Auburn Sand, Black, Denim Multi, White: Adjustable Sweatband, UPF 50+ Sun Protection 45% Paper, 35% Polypropylene, 20%
    [Show full text]
  • 2011 ACS PUMS DATA DICTIONARY August 7, 2015 HOUSING RECORD
    2011 ACS PUMS DATA DICTIONARY August 7, 2015 HOUSING RECORD RT 1 Record Type H .Housing Record or Group Quarters Unit SERIALNO 7 Housing unit/GQ person serial number 0000001..9999999 .Unique identifier DIVISION 1 Division code 0 .Puerto Rico 1 .New England (Northeast region) 2 .Middle Atlantic (Northeast region) 3 .East North Central (Midwest region) 4 .West North Central (Midwest region) 5 .South Atlantic (South region) 6 .East South Central (South region) 7 .West South Central (South Region) 8 .Mountain (West region) 9 .Pacific (West region) PUMA 5 Public use microdata area code (PUMA) 00100..08200 .Public use microdata area codes 77777 .Combination of 01801, 01802, and 01905 in Louisiana Note: Public use microdata areas (PUMAs) designate areas of 100,000 or more population. Use with ST for unique code. REGION 1 Region code 1 .Northeast 2 .Midwest 3 .South 4 .West 9 .Puerto Rico ST 2 State Code 01 .Alabama/AL 02 .Alaska/AK 04 .Arizona/AZ 05 .Arkansas/AR 06 .California/CA 08 .Colorado/CO 09 .Connecticut/CT 10 .Delaware/DE 11 .District of Columbia/DC 12 .Florida/FL 13 .Georgia/GA 1 15 .Hawaii/HI 16 .Idaho/ID 17 .Illinois/IL 18 .Indiana/IN 19 .Iowa/IA 20 .Kansas/KS 21 .Kentucky/KY 22 .Louisiana/LA 23 .Maine/ME 24 .Maryland/MD 25 .Massachusetts/MA 26 .Michigan/MI 27 .Minnesota/MN 28 .Mississippi/MS 29 .Missouri/MO 30 .Montana/MT 31 .Nebraska/NE 32 .Nevada/NV 33 .New Hampshire/NH 34 .New Jersey/NJ 35 .New Mexico/NM 36 .New York/NY 37 .North Carolina/NC 38 .North Dakota/ND 39 .Ohio/OH 40 .Oklahoma/OK 41 .Oregon/OR 42 .Pennsylvania/PA 44 .Rhode
    [Show full text]
  • LABORS and EXPERIENCES of Laura S. Haviland
    Library of Congress A woman's life-work Shine for the oppressed Laura S. Haviland Woman's Life-Work: LABORS AND EXPERIENCES OF Laura S. Haviland. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Aug 16 1883 m No. 16750 CITY OF WASHINGTON. CINCINNATI: PRINTED BY WALDEN & STOWE, FOR THE AUTHOR. 1882. E450 .H38 Copyright by LAURA S. HAVILAND, 1881. DEDICATION. TO My Two Sons, and Four Daughters, and Families; ALSO TO THE Home and Foreign Missionaries ARE THESE PAGES DEDICATED. The Author. PREFACE. In presenting the following pages to the public, without the trace of an excellent scholar or eloquent orator, I fully realize my inability to compete with writers of the nineteenth century. With this incompetency in view, I have hesitated and delayed until three-score and thirteen years are closing over me. Yet as I am still spared to toil on a little longer in the great field so white to harvest, praying the Lord of the harvest to arm and send forth more laborers, because they are too few, I ask an indulgent public to allow my deep and abiding sympathies for the oppressed and sorrowing of ever nation, class or color, to plead my excuse for sending forth simple, unvarnished facts and experiences, hoping they may increase an aspiration for the active doing, instead of saying what ought to be done, with excusing self for want of ability, when it is to be found in HIm who is saying, “My grace is sufficient for thee, for my strength is perfect in weakness.” LAURA S. HAVILAND. A woman's life-work http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbum.24792 Library of Congress October, 1881.
    [Show full text]
  • CATEGORY TITLE AUTHOR Basic Weaving/Techniques Mastering
    CATEGORY TITLE AUTHOR Basic Weaving/Techniques Mastering Weave Structures Alderman Basic Weaving/Techniques Textile Handbook Ame Basic Weaving/Techniques Shuttle Craft Book of American Handweaving Atwater Basic Weaving/Techniques Finishes in the Ethnic Tradition Baizerman Basic Weaving/Techniques Key to Weaving Black Basic Weaving/Techniques Book of Looms: History of Handloom Broudy Basic Weaving/Techniques Understanding Rayon Chenille Butler Basic Weaving/Techniques Learning to Weave Chandler Basic Weaving/Techniques Simple Weaving Chetwynd Basic Weaving/Techniques Craft of the Weaver Colllingwood Basic Weaving/Techniques All About Weaving: Comprehensive Guide to the Craft Creager Basic Weaving/Techniques Weaving: A Creative Approach for Beginners Creager Basic Weaving/Techniques Samplers You Can Use Drooker Basic Weaving/Techniques Easy Weaving With Supplemental Warps Essen Basic Weaving/Techniques Warping All by Yourself Garrett Basic Weaving/Techniques Next Steps in Weaving Graver Basic Weaving/Techniques Sectional Warping Made Easy Groff Basic Weaving/Techniques Weaving: A Handbook of the Fiber Arts Held Basic Weaving/Techniques Creative Weaving Howard Basic Weaving/Techniques Warp and Weave LeClerc Basic Weaving/Techniques Everybody's Weaving Book Lewis Basic Weaving/Techniques Hands on Weaving Liebler Basic Weaving/Techniques Weaver's Companion Ligon Basic Weaving/Techniques Manual of Helpful Hints forHandweavers Mannings Basic Weaving/Techniques Compendium of Finishing Techniques McEneely Basic Weaving/Techniques Weaving as an
    [Show full text]
  • The Haskell Silk Company: Manufacturers of Staple Silks Recognized As a "Standard" in the Trade
    University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2002 The Haskell Silk Company: Manufacturers of Staple Silks Recognized As a "Standard" in the Trade Jacqueline Field University of Southern Maine Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Field, Jacqueline, "The Haskell Silk Company: Manufacturers of Staple Silks Recognized As a "Standard" in the Trade" (2002). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 384. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/384 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. The Haskell Silk Company: Manufacturers of Staple Silks Recognized As a "Standard" in the Trade by Jacqueline Field Haskell Silk Company founder, James Haskell, was a native of the Cape Anne, area of Massachusetts.1 In this locale his early career included service in numerous public and business capacities, not least as agent for The Rockport Steam Cotton Company, and as a State Senator.2 He was a man experienced in politics, finance and textile production. He moved to Maine in 1858 when he acquired the cotton mill at Saccarappa Falls, Westbrook.3 Under his management the mill, renamed The Westbrook Manufacturing Company, flourished and expanded. In 1874, his elder son, Frank Haskell, assumed the role of agent. At the same time James took advantage of, by now, well developed machine twist-making technology and launched into the youngest branch of the textile industry--silk.
    [Show full text]
  • PDF File Generated From
    OCCASION This publication has been made available to the public on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation. DISCLAIMER This document has been produced without formal United Nations editing. The designations employed and the presentation of the material in this document do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries, or its economic system or degree of development. Designations such as “developed”, “industrialized” and “developing” are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgment about the stage reached by a particular country or area in the development process. Mention of firm names or commercial products does not constitute an endorsement by UNIDO. FAIR USE POLICY Any part of this publication may be quoted and referenced for educational and research purposes without additional permission from UNIDO. However, those who make use of quoting and referencing this publication are requested to follow the Fair Use Policy of giving due credit to UNIDO. CONTACT Please contact [email protected] for further information concerning UNIDO publications. For more information about UNIDO, please visit us at www.unido.org UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna International Centre, P.O. Box 300, 1400 Vienna, Austria Tel: (+43-1) 26026-0 · www.unido.org · [email protected] RESTltlCTED IP.III>/Sm.A/1061 26 SeptaltJer 1988 f 10b~-E aaGniU.: :oG.ISH URGENT ASSISTANCE 'l'O THE ARGENTIRE \IOOL INDUSTRY SI/ARG/86/836/11-03 THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC -· Technical report: Finishing of wool and wool blends* Prepared for the Governaent of the Argentine Republic by the United N•tions Industrial Development Organization.
    [Show full text]
  • The Judicial Branch
    Chapter V THE JUDICIAL BRANCH The Judicial Branch . 341 The Supreme Court . 342 The Court of Appeals . 353 Michigan Trial Courts . 365 Judicial Branch Agencies . 381 2013– 2014 ORGANIZATION OF THE JUDICIAL BRANCH Supreme Court 7 Justices State Court Administrative Office Court of Appeals (4 Districts) 28 Judges Circuit Court Court of Claims (57 Circuits) Hears claims against the 218 Judges State. This is a function of General Jurisdiction the 30th Judicial Circuit Court, includes Court (Ingham County). Family Division Probate District Court Municipal Court (78 Courts) (104 Districts) (4 Courts) 103 Judges 248 Judges 4 Judges Certain types of cases may be appealed directly to the Court of Appeals. The Constitution of the State of Michigan of 1963 provides that “The judicial power of the state is vested exclusively in one court of justice which shall be divided into one supreme court, one court of appeals, one trial court of general jurisdiction known as the circuit court, one probate court, and courts of limited jurisdiction that the legislature may establish by a two-thirds vote of the members elected to and serving in each house.” Michigan Manual 2013 -2014 Chapter V – THE JUDICIAL BRANCH • 341 THE SUPREME COURT JUSTICES OF THE MICHIGAN SUPREME COURT Term expires ROBERT P. YOUNG, JR., Chief Justice . Jan. 1, 2019 MICHAEL F. CAVANAGH . Jan. 1, 2015 MARY BETH KELLY . Jan. 1, 2019 STEPHEN J. MARKMAN . Jan. 1, 2021 BRIDGET MARY MCCORMACK . Jan. 1, 2021 DAVID F. VIVIANO . Jan. 1, 2015 BRIAN K. ZAHRA . Jan. 1, 2015 www.courts.mi.gov/supremecourt History Under the territorial government of Michigan established in 1805, the supreme court consisted of a chief judge and two associate judges appointed by the President of the United States.
    [Show full text]
  • I Was Tempted by a Pretty Coloured Muslin
    “I was tempted by a pretty y y coloured muslin”: Jane Austen and the Art of Being Fashionable MARY HAFNER-LANEY Mary Hafner-Laney is an historic costumer. Using her thirty-plus years of trial-and-error experience, she has given presentations and workshops on how women of the past dressed to historical societies, literary groups, and costuming and re-enactment organizations. She is retired from the State of Washington . E E plucked that first leaf o ff the fig tree in the Garden of Eden and decided green was her color, women of all times and all places have been interested in fashion and in being fashionable. Jane Austen herself wrote , “I beleive Finery must have it” (23 September 1813) , and in Northanger Abbey we read that Mrs. Allen cannot begin to enjoy the delights of Bath until she “was provided with a dress of the newest fashion” (20). Whether a woman was like Jane and “so tired & ashamed of half my present stock that I even blush at the sight of the wardrobe which contains them ” (25 December 1798) or like the two Miss Beauforts in Sanditon , who required “six new Dresses each for a three days visit” (Minor Works 421), dress was a problem to be solved. There were no big-name designers with models to show o ff their creations. There was no Project Runway . There were no department stores or clothing empori - ums where one could browse for and purchase garments of the latest fashion. How did a woman achieve a stylish appearance? Just as we have Vogue , Elle and In Style magazines to keep us up to date on the most current styles, women of the Regency era had The Ladies Magazine , La Belle Assemblée , Le Beau Monde , The Gallery of Fashion , and a host of other publications (Decker) .
    [Show full text]
  • Local Disadvantages and the Weaver's Wage in the British Cotton Industry
    Local Disadvantages and the Weaver's Wage in the British Cotton Industry K.C.Jackson Department of Textile Industries, University of Leeds, Leeds, LS2 9JT. 1 Introduction A recent paper in " Ars Textrina" [ 1 ] provided an assessment of the Uni­ form List,1 which was the basis for determining the piece-rate earnings of weavers in most sectors of the British cotton industry from 1892, until it was gradually superseded following the Second World War. Although the List introduced rigidities in the labour market, nominally it had the advantage for operatives and employers alike, of discouraging under­ cutting of selling prices on the basis of wage cuts during periods of poor trade. However, this safeguard did not survive the severe pressures of the interwar years, as the legalisation of the List in 1935 testifies [2]. Un­ der more favorable trading conditions, the List also reduced the chances of disputes arising from wage differentials between mills and between districts. While the Uniform List provided a focus for collective wage bar­ gaining at industry level between the Amalgamated Weavers' Associ­ ation (AWA) and the Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers' Association (CSMA), it was not applied universally, since there were sectors of cot­ ton weaving for which its provisions were not appropriate. Thus sepa­ rate arrangements evolved in the production of sheetings, the weaving 1 Although the term Uniform List is used throughout this paper, the discussion below relates also to the Colne List, which from 1892 to 1935 was the industry-wide basis for determining wages in the weaving of coloured fabrics. The original Uni­ form List and the Colne List formed the basis respectively of the Grey and Coloured Sections of the revised Uniform List of 1935.
    [Show full text]
  • A Comparison of the Patterns Formed by Primary Textile Structures and Their Photographic Abstraction
    Rochester Institute of Technology RIT Scholar Works Theses 9-22-1976 A comparison of the patterns formed by primary textile structures and their photographic abstraction Pamela Perlman Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.rit.edu/theses Recommended Citation Perlman, Pamela, "A comparison of the patterns formed by primary textile structures and their photographic abstraction" (1976). Thesis. Rochester Institute of Technology. Accessed from This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by RIT Scholar Works. It has been accepted for inclusion in Theses by an authorized administrator of RIT Scholar Works. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Thesis Proposal for the Master of Fine Arts De gree Collee;e of Fine and Applj_ed .Arts Rochester Institute of Technology Title: A Comparison of the Fatterns Formed by Primary Textile structures and their Phot ographic Abstraction Submitted by: Pamela Anne Perlman Date: September 22, 1976 Thesis Co mm it te~: Nr . Donald Du jnowski I-Ir. I,l az Lenderman hr. Ed 1iiller Depart~ental Approval : Date :-:--g---li6~-r-71-b-r-/ ----- ---------~~~~~'~~~r------------------------- Chairman of the School for American Craftsme:l: ___-r-----,,~---- ____ Da t e : ---.:...,'?7~JtJ--J7~i,-=-~ ___ _ Chairr.ian of the Gr3.duate Prog:rarn: ------------------------~/~~/~. --- Date: ___________________~ /~~,~~;j~~, (~/_' ~i~/~: 7 / Final Committee Decision: Date: ----------------------- Thesis Proposal for the Master of Fine Arts Degree College of Fine and Applied Arts Rochester Institute of Technology Title: A Comparison of the Patterns Frmed by Primary Textile Structures and their Photographic Abstraction My concern in textiles is with structure and materials. I v/ould like to do v/all hangings based on primary textile structures such as knotting, looping, pile, balanced weaves, and tapestry.
    [Show full text]