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Zeeb Rd, Ann Aibor, MI 48106 AN ARTIFACT STUDY OF HARMONIST PATTERNED SILK TEXTILES, 1826-1852 DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Mary Elizabeth Swinker, B.A., M.A. ***** The Ohio State University 1991 Dissertation Committee: Approved by: Dr. Lucy R. Sibley Dr. Kathryn A. Jakes Co-Advisor^ Dr. John C. Messenger Dr. Hazel 0. Jackson -Advisor ^nt of Te^iles id Clothirig College of Human Ecology Copyright by Mary Elizabeth Swinker 1991 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS My appreciation to my co-advisors, Dr. Lucy Sibley and Dr. Kathryn A. Jakes goes beyond the hours of work they put in reading, commenting, and meeting with me to complete this project. They made my Ph.D. program more than courses, tests, and a dissertation by involving me in challenging and exciting research projects. Special thanks to Dr. Sibley for involving me in the Etowah research projects and Dr. Jakes for stimulating my interest in Textile Science . To my committee Dr. John C. Messenger and Dr. Hazel 0. Jackson I extend my sincere thanks for their interest and help during the dissertation process. Thanks to Laura Adkins for all her statistical help. She persevered to find the best way to analyze the data. Her interest in the project and hard work with the analysis are greatly appreciated. To Donald Smith and Tom Coulton of Hunter Associates Laboratory, Inc. I extend my sincere thanks for the loan of a HunterLab Miniscan. Appreciation goes to Mr. Raymond V. Shepherd and his staff at Old Economy Village for supporting my research project. Special thanks goes to Ruth Hahn, Pat Leiphart, ii Pat Belich, and Cleo Bronaugh for making me feel welcome and at home at Old Economy. My appreciation for the 1990 Graduate Scholarship goes to the Pennsylvania Home Economics Association and for the Mary Lapitsky Graduate Fellowship to the Department of Textiles and Clothing, The Ohio State University. The monies helped defray the cost of this project. Special thanks goes to Dr. Harold E. Wingard, Dean of the College of Human Ecology and Health Sciences at Indiana University of Pennsylvania, for supporting my three year leave request and the Doctoral Faculty Support Grant request. I would also like to acknowledge my colleagues in the Consumer Services Department at Indiana University of Pennsylvania. Their support and encouragement was greatly appreciated. Special thanks goes to Joan C. Schmitt who has been my link to Indiana and who did countless errands for me. To two fellow graduate students Jean D. Hines and Cheunsoon A. Song I extend my appreciation for their friendship and help throughout this endeavor. We shared the "tears" and "cheers" of this program. I'm glad we went through it together. Thanks goes to my family, my brothers Bob, John, and Bill, my sister Patty, my sister-in-law Linda and my brother-in-law Mark. They offered encouragement and love iii throughout the program. A special thanks to John who unselfishly gave up his free time to help me move. Thanks also goes to my nephews Mark, Andy, and Michael and my niece Christine who were forgiving when I missed their special days. Most importantly, I want to extend my love and thanks to my parents who were the guiding force in my completing this degree. Their love for me and faith in my ability was the support I needed throughout this endeavor. I dedicate this work to them. IV VITA 1975 ........................ B.A. Notre Dame College of Ohio, South Euclid, Ohio. 1975-1976.................... Adult Vocational Education Teacher, East Liverpool School District, East Liverpool, Ohio. 1977-197 8.................... Graduate Teaching Assistant, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Kent State University, Kent, Ohio. 1 9 7 8 ........................ M.A. Kent State University, Kent, Ohio. 1978-1979 .................... Instructor, Home Economics Department, University of Minnesota, Duluth, Duluth, Minnesota. 1979- ........................ Assistant Professor, Consumer Services Department, Indiana University of Pennsylvania, Indiana, Pennsylvania. 1988-1991.................... Graduate Research Associate, Department of Textiles and Clothing, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio. FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Textiles and Clothing Historic and Archaeological Textiles Minor Field: Anthropology TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .................................... ü VITA ................................................ V LIST OF T A B L E S...................... » ............. ix LIST OF FIGURES...................................... xii LIST OF P L A T E S...................................... xv CHAPTER p a g e I. INTRODUCTION.............................. 1 Problem Statement.................... 2 Purpose.............................. 11 Limitations to the Study.............. 12 Definitions............ 14 II. RELATED LITERATURE........................ 16 Communal Societies.................... 16 The Harmony Society, 1804-1824........ 20 The Harmony Society, 1824-1905........ 27 Silk Cultivation Industry in America. 39 Silk Manufacturing Industry in America. 43 Silk Production at Economy............ 47 Chemical Structure of Silk and Properties.................. 55 Silk Cultivation and Manufacturing. 57 Design in Silk Textiles.............. 62 Theoretical Framework................ 66 Research Hypotheses .................. 69 Hypothesis...................... 69 Sub-hypothesis 1 . 70 Sub-hypothesis 2............ 70 VI CHAPTER PAGE III. METHODOLOGY................................ 71 Part I: Analysis of Harmonist Textiles. 72 Samp l e .......................... 72 Data Collection Instrument .... 73 M e t h o d .......................... 74 Fiber Assessment............ 74 Yarn Structure.............. 76 Fabric Weave Structure. 76 G r a i n ...................... 76 Fabric Thickness............ 78 Fabric Count................ 78 Fabric Width................ 79 Selvage W i d t h .............. 79 Placement of M o t i f s........ 80 Coloration.................. 80 Data Collection on Site.......... 82 Data Collection in Laboratory. 84 Data Analysis.................... 85 Part II; Documentary Correspondence . 87 S a m p l e .......................... 87 Data Collection Instrument .... 88 Data Analysis.................... 88 IV. PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION FOR PART 1...................... 89 Part I: Analysis of Harmonist Textiles. 90 S a m p l e.......................... 90 Physical Attributes.............. 92 F i b e r ...................... 92 Discussion............ 95 Yarn........................ 96 Discussion............ 100 Fabric Structure............ 101 Fabric Design .............. 121 Discussion............ 140 Testing Sub-hypothesis 1 ........ 148 Discussion.................. 156 V l l CHAPTER PAGE V. PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION FOR PART I I .................... 161 Part II: Documentary Correspondence . 162 S a mple.......................... 162 Testing Sub-hypothesis 2 ........ 167 Cultivation................ 168 Manufacturing .............. 171 Legislation................ 173 Exhibition.................. 175 Information Acquisition . 177 Discussion.................. 178 VI. INTERPRETATION OF FINDINGS................ 179 VII. SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS................ 195 Summary.............................. 195 Recommendations...................... 205 APPENDICES A. Definitions................................ 208 B. Articles of Association.................... 216 C. American Silk Manufacturers, 1829-1839 . 219 D. Catalog of Harmonist Pattern S i l k s ........ 222 E. Worksheet: Textile Examination Record. 231 F. Worksheet: Harmonist Correspondence........ 235 G. Pattern Design Plates...................... 238 H. Plots of Variances........................ 259 I. Results of F-tests.......................