BLUEFLY’S NEW BUZZ/2 POST-EMMY COVERAGE/9-17 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ TUESDAYDaily Newspaper • September 23, 2003 Vol. 186, No. 62 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Lena Olin and Jennifer Garner on the red carpet. Playing Tennis NEW YORK — Sporty, languid and elegant might seem to be contradictory terms, but they all came together in the athletic elements of Ralph Lauren’s spring collection. No one can create a Gatsby moment quite like Lauren, and he proved it with a stunning opening lineup that would have been ideal for Daisy Buchanan. There was a white cabled varsity sweater elongated into a flippy little dress, for example, and a baseball-inspired, pinstriped leather suit. Here, a sequined silk sweater over a little stretch silk tennis dress. For more on New York, see pages 6 and 7; a look at the London shows on page 8. The Countdown to 2005: As U.S. Industry Quakes, China Has Its Own Fears

By Constance Haisma-Kwok HONG KONG — The numbers are staggering: Last year, Chinese textile manufacturers produced 5.3 million tons of textiles, nearly one-quarter of the world’s output.

For More on Sourcing Horizons, See Pages 19 to 30. China, the world’s largest cotton producer, accounted for 24 percent of the world’s total output of $121 billion. There are currently 70,000 textile and clothing enterprises in China. With Chinese textile exports equaling $7.07 billion in 2002, there’s little wonder See 2005, Page28 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 WWDTUESDAY Bluefly Appoints President Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By David Moin Melissa Payner- sportswear business called GENERAL Gregor Pivot Rules. FASHION: Reports from the last of the New York runway season as well as NEW YORK — Bluefly might Payner-Gregor was president 6 the opening moments from the London collections. have found a faster path to prof- and ceo of the Spiegel catalog Chinese authorities are growing concerned that many of their enterprises, itability. The Web site has hired until last March when the par- which are undergoing privatization, will be unable to compete post-2005. a top merchant after operating ent Spiegel Inc. filed Chapter 11 1 without one for its entire five- bankruptcy, but the troubles Bluefly has hired a top merchant, Melissa Payner-Gregor, as president, after year history. were pegged to a corporate 2 operating without one for its entire five-year history. On Monday, Melissa Payner- credit crunch, rather than hav- As part of a major restructuring plan, Fila has laid off 550 of its 1,900 Gregor joined as president. It’s ing anything to do with Spiegel a new position at Bluefly, an off- merchandising specifically. 5 employees, representing 29 percent of its global workforce. price Internet retailer of design- She started her career in the Exhibitors at last week’s Première Vision showcased an abundance of er apparel, accessories, shoes training program at the now-de- 31 novelty looks and strong pops of color, lending a renewed enthusiasm. and home merchandise, and one funct I. Magnin, became a of the few survivors of the dot- sweater buyer at Ann Taylor, EYE: Parties on both sides of the pond…Bringing new life to an old bar in com blow-up. Ken Seiff, who then shifted to Henri Bendel, 4 London…A really big shoe. continues as chief executive, where, as a divisional merchan- Post-Emmy Awards coverage appears on pages 9-17. has always served as top mer- dise manager, she developed a chant, though he never had private label collection. Subse- Sourcing Horizons: The Eastern View, a special report, is on pages 19-30. prior retail experience. Before quently, she started up Pastille, a Classified Advertisements ...... 38-39 founding Bluefly, Seiff ran a golf Continued on page 35 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual's name.

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WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional By Amanda Kaiser also was expanded to include 31, 2002, compared with a profit issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and September and three in August, by Fairchild Luxottica ceo Leonardo Del of $8.3 million, or 7.3 million Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., MILAN — Versace, which is im- Vecchio. Cacciatori is also ceo of euros, in 2001. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. plementing an industrial plan to A&G Consulting, the firm that The state of Versace’s business No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, cut costs and trim losses, ap- helped Versace develop and has generated considerable local including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 pointed a interim chief executive carry out its new industrial plan. press. In June, Santo Versace, Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. to carry out that mission. That blueprint, covering president and co-chairman of his Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Versace tapped Fabio Mas- everything from advertising and family’s company, threatened to Printed in the U.S.A. simo Cacciatori as interim ceo to manufacturing to retailing and sue weekly magazine Il Mondo All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of replace Giovanni Galbiati. Gal- licensing, aims to boost efficien- over an article stating that audi- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. biati, a longtime Versace employ- cies and return Versace to the tors were concerned with the For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. ee, resigned in March for what a black. Versace recently cut 15 company’s books and its ability to company spokesman character- jobs in the U.S. to reduce ex- pay back a 100 million euro bond ized as “personal reasons.” penses, and it also has eliminat- that expires in July 2004. It is unclear how long Caccia- ed office space. Versace posted a Versace claims the report was In Brief tori will serve in this position. net loss of $6.6 million, or 5.8 mil- false. Friday, however, it did con- Cacciatori joined Versace’s lion euros, converted at current firm it is seeking a fresh bank board in June, when that body exchange, in the year ended Dec. loan to help pay back the bonds. ● LEVI’S CREDIT DOWNGRADE: Citing what it called the San Francisco jeansmaker’s deteriorating financial position, credit- ratings agency Moody’s Investors Service on Monday lowered its ratings on Levi Strauss & Co. In a research note, Moody’s said the lowered ratings were due to “the rapid decline in the company’s financial flexibility vis-à-vis its recently executed credit agree- Oldham Gets His Name Back ment and weaker-than-anticipated year-to-date results, particu- larly in the areas of sales, working capital needs and cash genera- By Scott Malone Officials at Jones could not be Last fall Jones pulled the tion.” Moody’s lowered its rating on Levi’s senior unsecured notes reached for immediate comment. plug on the Todd Oldham Jeans to “Ca” from “B3,” cut its senior implied credit rating to “Caa1” NEW YORK — Todd Oldham’s Tony Longoria, vice presi- line, as reported. Jones officials from “B2” and assigned an initial “(P)Caa1” rating to the compa- name is his own again. dent at Oldham’s company and said at the time that the four- ny’s proposed $500 senior secured credit facility. The designer said in a state- the designer’s longtime business year-old unit’s small volume was ment late Monday that Jones partner, said the company the reason, though market ● CHAPS’ NEW CHAPTER: Warnaco Group said Monday that its Apparel Group had agreed to would begin looking at opportu- sources suggested the appear- license from Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. to produce Chaps men’s transfer back the rights to use nities to reintroduce apparel ance of a Todd Oldham home sportswear had been extended 10 years, through 2018. In a regu- his name in the apparel, acces- under the designer’s name. furnishings at Target stores also latory filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission, sories, fragrance and cosmetics “We’re fielding all of our op- led to the line’s mothballing. At Warnaco reported that the amendment to the existing license industries. tions right now,” he said. the time, a source said Jones also expands the range of products to include a jeanswear col- had pitched a mass-priced ver- lection, activewear and swimwear and adds to “the range of ap- sion of the Todd Oldham Jeans proved accounts.” Warnaco will introduce a new trademark and line to Target merchants but logo for Chaps as part of the new agreement. had been turned down. Longoria said in a Monday ● EU SEEKS DUMPING SANCTIONS: The European Union said phone interview that Target Monday it is relaunching its efforts to impose sanctions on the would be among the list of cus- U.S. over its antidumping laws, which the U.S. has failed to re- tomers Oldham would be con- peal after a decision by the World Trade Organization three sidering when and if he reen- years ago deeming the laws incompatible with WTO rules. The ters the apparel market. European Commission has also proposed the adoption of meas- “That would be one,” he said. ures to protect the EU companies affected by the application of “There would be others, but that dumping rules. The EU is seeking to impose import duties, would definitely be in the mix.” equivalent to three times the amount of the damage suffered by A Target spokeswoman did EU companies, on products of U.S. companies found to dump in not return calls late Monday its member countries. Whether the retaliation list would include seeking comment. textiles and apparel is unclear. When Jones put the Oldham line on ice last year, company of- ficials said they would consider WWDStock Market Index for September 22 selling the name back to Oldham or any other interested buyer. Composite: 114.68 Broadline Stores: 115.23 Softline Stores: 114.38 “We’d really be open to any option that was good from a re- turn standpoint,” executive vice president of finance Anita Britt -1.87 said then. -2.22 -2.04 Jones bought the rights to the Vendors: 112.34 Textiles: 99.50 Todd Oldham name in fashion categories in February 1999, a Index base of 100 is few months after the designer re- keyed to closing prices tired from the runway. At the of Dec. 31, 2002. time, it was selling Oldham jeans -0.61 -17.26 Continued on page 36

4 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

X Winning Moves “I’m here to check out the competition,” said Jade Jagger, sporting one of her own diamond necklaces at the party to launch Rocawear in London on Saturday night. “I knew there would be plenty of bling- bling here on display.” Other guests at the party, hosted by the bejeweled Damon Dash and Victoria Beckham, included Jodie Kidd, Jasmine Guinness, Sam Taylor- Wood and David Furnish. The following evening, Jagger returned the favor and invited Dash, as well as Claudia Schiffer, Diane von Furstenberg, Matthew Williamson and Lady Victoria Hervey, to her party, which was held to celebrate Jagger’s one-year anniversary as creative director at Garrard. “She’s a friend and she’s been showing me around London,” said Dash. “But her jewelry for India Jane and Mark Birley at Annabel’s. Garrard? I’ve checked some of it out, and

PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY it’s pretty expensive.” The evening’s main attraction wasn’t the jewels, but Marilyn Manson’s girlfriend, Playboy cover girl Dita Von Teese, who climbed into a five-foot-tall martini glass, then stripped down to a thong and sequin nipple tassels. Now that’s bling-bling. Belle Annabel’s Meanwhile, in New York, as the LONDON — London club king Mark three barmen and at least 20 guests at a time. Bryant Park tents came down, the fash- Birley isn’t giving up on the silver- “It still looks like a first-class, 19th-century ion crowd was already on to the next. haired set, but he’s hoping to bring a railway carriage,” says Birley. “But now it’s more Von Furstenberg offered up her West eye® younger buzz back to Annabel’s, the theatrical. In the past, people were using the bar as Village studio for SpongeBob legendary aristo party haven celebrating a place to wait before going to dinner. I want it to SquarePants Jellyfish Land at the Kids its 40th anniversary this year. have its own personality again.” for Kids event to benefit pediatric AIDS Last week, Birley and his ex-wife, Annabel Birley also has recruited the 26-year-old events while Helena Christensen, Todd Oldham, Goldsmith — the club’s namesake — hosted two organizer, Amber Nuttall, daughter of uber-wealthy Chloë Sevigny, Ana Gasteyer and a post- private dinners for a total of 320 friends, including Sir Nicholas Nuttall, to lasso London’s bright young showing Donna Karan, who was “feeling Nan Kempner, John Profumo, the Duke and Duchess set and give the place a more girl-friendly vibe. “For like a kid again,” volunteered at carnival of Marlborough, Princess Alexandra and Angus the first 20 years of Annabel’s existence, it was all games like the Big Mouth and the Wacky Ogilvy, Drue Heinz, Claus von Bulow, Lord and Lady very masculine. The girl waited at home by the Wizard. In between stints at the Frog Black, Andrew Parker Bowles, Prince and Princess phone for the man to call and ask her out,” says Flip, Julianne Moore toted around her Michael of Kent and the Earl of Suffolk at the Birley. “Now, women come on their own, and we kids, Cal and Liv, as well as the enor- underground restaurant just off Berkeley Square. want them to feel comfortable.” mous bag of prizes they had won. Joy Barry Humphries, a longtime friend of Birley’s, did Annabel’s also is opening earlier — at 8:30 — so Bryant, who had been front row at Ralph his Dame Edna schtick on both nights. He regaled the revelers can get an early start on the evening. Lauren the day before, was taking the audience with tales of a big love affair with Birley. “Everyone’s like Cinderella nowadays — they’ve got to go Knock-a-Block game pretty seriously. “This place was going to be called Edna’s until that to bed early in order to function in the morning,” Birley “It’s a totally different world,” she said, scheming minx, Annabel, came along,” he said. says. A DJ will spin on weekends to liven things up. before focusing her attention back on

But beyond laughing it up with old friends, Birley “Music has been an ongoing problem here for the swinging balls and oversized dice. TIM JENKINS PHOTOS BY AND ROCAWEAR GARRARD has been showing off some of the changes he’s made past 40 years. Everything seems to be going well and — with help from his daughter, the artist, India Jane then someone always makes a totally unsuitable Birley — in a bid to draw the 20- to 40-year-old request — you know, ‘If I Had a Hammer,’” says crowd back to the club. Birley, breaking into a smile. “In the Eighties, Annabel’s bar was crammed full India Jane has spent her entire life, including of people until 2 a.m. Since then, about 500 new bars her infant years, at Annabel’s. “It evokes the same have opened in London — the Art Deco bar at memories and feelings as my nursery,” she laughs. Claridges, Zuma and The Collection — and I think Her remodeling scheme has been subtle, there’s a perception among the young now that changing the upholstery and carpeting in the dining Annabel’s is snooty and old,” Birley says over a cup room to a deep shade of purple, the walls in a nook of tea and a Cohiba one drizzly afternoon in his near the bar to a brighter shade of mustard yellow, study above the club. and making over slouchy sofas in an eye-popping So Birley and India Jane ripped out the old bar, red velvet, “like a peeled, ripe tomato,” she says. which resembled a four-poster, double bed (“It’s But while the decor may have changed, the club rules gone to that great bar graveyard,” Birley quips), and — or lack thereof — have not. “We smoke on principle replaced it with a longer, more user-friendly model. here,” says India Jane. “Even if you don’t smoke, we still The new, rectangular version has a slick, brass and like you to hold a cigarette and make believe.” orange glass surface, and can accommodate up to — Samantha Conti

Clockwise from top right: Victoria Beckham; Jade Jagger; Julianne FEET FORWARD Moore with Liv; Joy Bryant; Natalie Portman at Kids for Kids; Helena LONDON — Plenty of women love shoes, but Kimberley Christensen with her son, Mingus, and a Power Ranger. Gundle, a South African-born artist, is actually making a living out of her weakness for footwear. Trained at the Michaelis School of Art in Cape Town, South Africa, and at the Slade School of Art here, Gundle used to paint faces — but now feet have captured her fancy.

“Faces, which I still love to paint, speak of the past. They’re FIRST OF ART COURTESY maps of life that don’t hide a person’s history. Shoes help por- A portrait by Kimberley Gundle. tray the mood and personality of the wearer,” says Gundle. usually nondescript, allow the shoes to stand out all the Ninety Gundle works are currently included in “The more. Her favorites are family portraits done via footwear. Shoe Fits: Portraits Below the Knee,” at the Art First “I love the interaction and the hierarchy,” she says. gallery in Mayfair, and feature an array of footwear from Although Gundle finds that most people are happy to shiny shoes worn by the Beefeaters at the Tower of London have their feet photographed because of the anonymity, to tennis champ Tim Henman’s Adidas sneakers. there are always a few exceptions. When she’s not painting, Gundle can be found loitering “There was an embarrassing Prada moment once,” she around bus lines in Camden, observing people’s feet as remembers. “I fell in love with a pair of sandals in the they wait for a bus or, at night, at chic bars and restau- store and was desperate to take a picture of them. I asked rants in town watching the floor. my friend to drop something on the floor so that we could “You do feel a bit like a stalker,” she says. “I like to look at bend down to shoot it, and then security arrived.” Gundle my subject for a while first, then I ask if I can take a picture.” and her friend were asked to leave the store. Gundle also interviews her subjects and sketches them A few weeks later, the run-in became immortalized on to inspire her paintings. Her shoes are painted in bright, canvas in “My Prada Moment” (2003).

block colors, while the backgrounds, which are clear and — Sarah Harris KEITH SMITH KIDS FOR PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 5 Fila Cuts 29% of Staff BeneFit Brow Bar Bows at Macy’s West NEW YORK — As part of a major fashion flair. This month, the NEW YORK — BeneFit Cosme- five stations manned by both aes- Arianne Damboise, whose tweez- restructuring plan, Fila has laid company will close its footwear tics is launching its first BeneFit theticians and dedicated sales ing and shaping services have off 550 of its 1,900 employees, research and development facili- Brow Bar concept at Macy’s associates. been on the menu at BeneFit’s representing 29 percent of its ty in Peabody, Mass., shifting West as part of a bid to develop The brow bars, themed with freestanding boutiques for 14 workforce. those functions to Montebelluna, its company-owned retail base. the tag line, “Drop in Now,” could years. Damboise will train aes- Of the 550 pink slips being Italy. Fila will shutter its 14 facto- BeneFit’s inaugural 860- each generate $500,000 in annual thetician recruits for the bars. handed out, 350 are in Europe, ry outlet stores in the U.S. by the square-foot brow space will bow sales, according to sources’ esti- In other BeneFit news, Shania with the bulk of them in Italy, the end of the year. There are also at Macy’s Union Square flagship mates. A typical brow service will Twain has partnered with the brand’s former base. Fila was plans to shift its footwear sourc- in San Francisco on Oct. 4. Two be priced at $15 and will take five brand and Glamour magazine in based in Biella, Italy, until Sports ing center to China from Taiwan. more are scheduled to roll out by to 10 minutes to perform. efforts to combat heart disease. Brand International finalized its Fila executives in the compa- January in California, at Macy’s “Macy’s West has a very de- The Grammy Award winner — $351 million purchase of Fila’s ny’s Spark, Md., office could not West stores at South Coast Plaza veloped BeneFit business,” said who lost her grandmother to worldwide subsidiaries from Fila be reached for comment Monday in Costa Mesa and at Valley Fair Cindy Harper, the chain’s vice heart disease — picked her fa- Holding SpA in June. and staffers in the New York of- Mall in San Jose. Executives at president and divisional mer- vorite shade of red for a lipstick, The news was especially fice declined to comment. the beauty company have eyed as chandise manager for cosmet- called Shania Red, which is de- hard to take in Biella, where Fila is still exploring “the many as 10 urban Macy’s West lo- ics. “Brows is a hot category and scribed as a “sweetheart” sheer most of the Italian job cuts are disposition of nonstrategic as- cations for the space. BeneFit, we realized the importance of red. Shania Red, which is priced taking place. Sergio Perino, a sets and alternative courses of which is majority owned by making these services available at $14, launched early this month regional representative for the action to improve its presence LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis to our customers.” and will be carried at Sephora, national union CGIL, said work- in the different markets,” ac- Vuitton, reportedly does about 17 sephora.com and benefitcosmet- ers are striking, demonstrating cording to the statement. percent of its business within the ics.com through Dec. 31. Net pro- and requesting political inter- Under the new management, 141-store Macy’s West chain. ceeds will be given to the Ameri- vention to prevent the job cuts. the brand is focusing on key According to estimates, BeneFit BEAUTY BEAT can Heart Association. “The logic [of the cuts] escapes markets, trying to reduce the could reach total retail sales of — Matthew W. Evans us,” Perino said. “These are not lead time and streamlining the $120 million by yearend. The BeneFit brow bar sched- just numbers, these are people.” corporate structure. Regional Discussing the brow venture, uled to open in Macy’s West at In a statement, Jon Epstein, headquarters are being set up which comprises no-appoint- South Coast Plaza won’t be the New Face for Goutal SBI’s chief executive officer who in Maryland, Milan and Seoul. ment-necessary, in-and-out for- first such facility at that store. previously headed Fila USA, The company plans to strength- mats, BeneFit chief executive of- L’ Oréal’s Lancôme brand, which HONG KONG — Camille Goutal, said the decision to institute lay- en the apparel and footwear de- ficer Diane Miles said, “We’re operates at least three “Brow daughter of the late legendary offs was needed “to compete and sign team and its marketing taking the next step in develop- Zones,” opened one there last perfumer, Annick Goutal, flew to prosper on a long-term basis.” team in Sparks and New York. ing [the business] within Macy’s year. Aside from serving as an ad- Hong Kong last week to intro- “The strategic reorganization Fila has signed a deal with West [by] identifying and devel- ditional revenue stream, brow duce the company’s new skin is another critical step in mak- Proline, a subsidiary of Mint Ap- oping flagship opportunities.” bars have been cited for their care product, which signals a re- ing Fila an efficient and flexible parel in the U.K. Through the Such stores are targets for the ability to make additional sales turn to the treatment category organization in a highly compet- new deal, Proline will handle brow bars because “you have to while customers are being serv- after a long absence for the Paris- itive market and in building a the brand’s sales and operations have a lot of passing [foot] traf- iced, in addition to encouraging based company. solid foundation for the compa- in the U.K. and will help with fic.” Miles cited the highly visible return business. Crème Splendide is a day ny’s future growth,” he said. product design, development Union Square space, which is Concurrent to the brow bar ini- cream containing rose sap and is Epstein has been busy analyz- and sourcing. carved out in a window on San tiative, BeneFit is expanding its designed to provide natural hy- ing the business, beefing up sen- — Rosemary Feitelberg, Francisco’s O’Farrell Street. wholesale and company-owned dration, boosted radiance and ior management and enhancing with contributions from “It takes our counter and retail bases. The brand will open wrinkle reduction. Goutal says core products with more of a Amanda Kaiser, Milan moves it into an experience,” its fifth freestanding store Oct. 1 in when the company decided to BeneFit co-founder Jean Ford Los Gatos, Calif. On the eastern enter the skin care arena, there said of the interplay between the front, BeneFit, which currently is was no question of basing the brand’s existing counters and the carried in 20 Macy’s East stores, first product on anything but added spaces. “[It] reinforces our expects to enter numerous addi- roses — her mother’s favorite spontaneity as a brand.” Though tional doors within the 105-unit flower and the company’s sym- Skechers Set to Launch Ford asserted “this is not a cook- chain. The brand plans to open as bol. “The lab had to find some- ie-cutter approach,” blueprints many as four freestanding bou- thing new and it turned out that call for the bars to be typically lo- tiques in urban, up-market neigh- the sap is very high quality — it Junior Sportswear Line cated in close proximity to Bene- borhoods next year. is very gentle, very effective and Fit’s respective main counters. But it’s brows for now and very stable. We haven’t had to NEW YORK — Skechers, the logo. The line will be priced to Larger bars will have as many as BeneFit has its own expert — add a lot of chemicals to help it Manhattan Beach, Calif.-based target junior consumers with T- keep,” she said. trendy footwear firm, is launch- shirts retailing from $18 to $29 The cream will be priced at ing a line of junior sportswear and jeans from $29 to $48. $154 for 60 mg. Goutal said she slated to hit stores for next “Juniors are known for spark- could not give a sales projection, year’s back-to-school season. ing market trends,” said Michael but industry sources estimate the Called Somethin’ Else from Greenberg, president of Skechers firm will produce 3,000 jars of Skechers, the line is licensed to USA. “It’s this same demographic the cream for the global rollout. Federal Jeans Inc., which designs who clamored for Skechers and After bowing in a few select and develops branded sportswear took our appeal to an entirely stores in France, the cream will for children, juniors’ and junior- new level. Offering a Somethin’ be launched worldwide in Decem- plus sizes for multiple levels of Else from Skechers branded ber. One store that will be eager distribution in the U.S., Canada clothing line that reflects their for its shipment is Joyce Beauty. fashion-forward style is a natural The multibrand beauty boutique step for our brand and a great op- sells Annick Goutal fragrances portunity for young women to em- and candles alongside other brace our image and further ex- niche cult brands, including pose Skechers to their parents An illustration of Nars, Chantecaille, Space N.K. and siblings.” BeneFit’s brow bar. and Kiehl’s. Since its launch nearly three — Constance Haisma-Kwok years ago, the Somethin’ Else from Skechers shoe line has grown from several styles into a diverse offering of casual and dress-casual footwear for teens. The shoe line is available at Sears Sells Tire and Battery Unit major department and specialty stores in the U.S., as well as in NEW YORK — Continuing to re- core business strategy,” Alan J. parel brands. In May 2002, Sears select markets globally. structure so it can concentrate Lacy, Sears chairman and chief bought Lands’ End, and this In the past year, Skechers has on improving its department executive, said in a statement month, the firm acquired the diversified its licensing agree- stores, Sears, Roebuck & Co. will Monday. “National Tire & Battery Structure label from Limited ments to reflect its various foot- sell its National Tire & Battery will benefit from being a part of Brands. The retailer also opened wear lines for women, men and division to TBC Corp., a tire dis- the broader 900-store TBC net- its first Sears Grand store on children. The brand has licensing tributor and franchisor of tire work.” NTB operates 226 loca- Saturday in West Jordan, Utah. It’s agreements with Kids Head- and automotive service centers. tions and generates annual rev- a 208,000-square-foot box that sells Skechers’ Somethin’ Else shoe line is quarters for children’s apparel, The $260 million cash deal is enues that exceed $425 million. more categories and merchandise spawning apparel for b-t-s 2004. Renfro Corp. for socks, Advance expected to close in the fourth Sears has taken other restruc- than traditional Sears stores. Group Inc. for women’s and men’s quarter, subject to the customary turing steps. Last July, it sold its Consumables will be carried by and select international markets. sport watches, Garson Inter- regulatory review and closing con- credit operation to Citibank, and Sears Grand, including snacks, Based in New York, Federal national for men’s jackets and ditions. Sears expects to recognize this month, it said three Great milk and soft drinks. There is also Jeans will design, distribute and coats, Mitsui & Co. for women’s a pretax gain in the range of $50 Indoors stores would shut. Other a plant nursery, and toys are sold market coordinated junior tops and men’s apparel in Japan, and million to $100 million, which assets are expected to be sold off, year-round. It’s an experiment by and bottoms in denim, knit and Multigroup for infants, toddlers will be finalized upon closing. enabling Sears to cut debt, fund Sears, which has set three more woven materials using the and children’s wear in Canada. “This transaction is a further improvements in its 870-unit de- Sears Grand openings. Somethin’ Else from Skechers — Julee Greenberg refinement of Sears’ focus on our partment store chain and buy ap- — David Moin 6 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 Elegant and Exotic There’s more than one way to create a strong collection. You can do it with stunningly elegant evening beauties as Vera Wang did, or by creating terrific looks with ethnic influences, à la Sebastian Pons.

Vera Wang: Has anybody ever doubted that Vera Wang Still, comparisons between Pons and Adrover has the Midas touch? Certainly her track record as a are inevitable, and while there are some Vera Wang designer suggests it. And now she has proved it similarities, Pons’ collection is a thing unto definitively with a new fine jewelry collection, itself. He shares Miguel’s interest in ethnic new which Sarah Jessica Parker dipped into for the references, but he omits the high-handed Emmys on Sunday night. statements and witty gestures. Instead, Pons, The beautiful new jewelry underscores whose inspirations range from Ancient york Wang’s design aesthetic, fusing femininity, Greece to his native Mallorca to India, has sensuality and subtlety — qualities mirrored in taken a relatively straightforward route to chic. her spring lineup, which she presented The line is peppered with great pieces: informally on Monday. Wang is a real pro beautiful creamy crocheted dresses, a when it comes to dressing celebs, and she floral-print caftan, a china blue-and-white thinks her intricately pleated, short, black ikat jacket. Pons aims to combine the best charmeuse skirt paired with a ribbed of both spheres — Old World techniques cotton cardigan is perfect Oscars fare. Then and materials with silhouettes tweaked to there was an ivory silk basketweave coat, suit the contemporary girl. belted with a blue ribbon and embroidered While there were fully conceived in floral sequins, which she showed over a looks, like a slew of matching cream fancy cutout skirt, but thinks it could be embroidered linen skirts and jackets, the “great with jeans.” designer knows women like to mix it up. Although there was a wonderful easy And they will no doubt find some great sportswear slant to many of the evening pieces from his spring lineup to add to looks, she didn’t — and shouldn’t — their wardrobes for life in the city or abandon those dreamy, almost ethereal country. dresses she does every season. They never get stale and her fans crave them. For Alvin Valley: After last season’s show at spring, the best included a long, pale pink the Waldorf Astoria, Alvin Valley has charmeuse number with a cascade of side obviously learned that it’s better to tulle ruffles; the airy, delicate gold- have the Ladies in the front row than embroidered slip dresses, and frothy tulle on the catwalk — especially when it tops worn with cropped wool tuxedo comes to the ubiquitous Hilton sisters. pants. But Wang knows how to make This time, Valley and creative director simplicity as alluring as the overtly Gisele Zelauy were inspired by nothing glamorous gowns for which she’s known. Cases less than Dada — a notion that in point: the chic, lean navy wool “monk’s” coat fortunately proved to be better in and the brown draped silk jersey top worn with practice than in theory with tailoring a gray wool pencil skirt. and construction that was polished As for those jewels, the collection is full of and chic. Crisp linen and Lurex suits pink and white diamonds, yellow tourmalines looked fabulous, while the cheeky and pink morganites set in delicate gold, little matador jackets in brocade platinum or titanium. Most striking, from the were fresh. In a surprising turn, capsule advance, were the earrings and ring in Valley also sent out a slew of an airy abstract rose motif of pavé diamonds colorblocked jersey dresses set in titanium. The line will be launched and gowns, which, though early next year at select jewelers and reminiscent of Nineties specialty stores. After all, diamonds — and Calvin Klein, looked perfect for the girl Wang — are a girl’s best friends. who wants to dress up without a lot of fuss. Also of note: smart blazers, sexy Sebastian Pons: After two years of working at pencil skirts and charming knits. With Miguel Adrover’s side, Sebastian Pons left his all that was good, it’s easy to overlook position as design director at his firm in the not-so-sweet eyelets and frumpy December 2002. The reason? Pons says he wasn’t prints. Overall, Valley’s collection satisfied with Adrover’s business direction — or Vera showed a step towards maturity — he lack thereof. It’s clear the experience has Wang even chopped off his signature long influenced Pons’ own work, particularly on the locks to clean up for the occasion. But production side. He claims, for example, that his one has to wonder how much of this factories are ready to roll and that he can name the exact change he owes to his collaborator — number of pieces he can make of each design. superstylist Lori Goldstein.

SOFT SELL: Is a runway show absolutely essential? You might Michelle booths and nosh on think not, given the growing number of big names absent from organic eats. “Gotta Rodriguez Fashion Scoops the calendar for Paris Fashion Week, which kicks off Oct. 7. get some food in As reported, Balenciaga confirmed last week it wouldn’t be me, then I’ll shop,” doing a show this season. Kenzo is giving it a skip, too, while said Rodriguez. YEN FOR ZEN: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton may have it awaits the arrival of its new women’s designer, Antonio Meanwhile, Hart completed its purchase of Donna Karan International almost Marras. Now comes word that couturier Christian Lacroix, who manned her booth two years ago, but it wants to buy some more. The French stopped showing his ready-to-wear on the catwalk in favor of the entire time, luxury group has completed a deal to acquire the Donna Karan still-life presentations a year ago, is scaling back further. offering collectible, collection store at 819 Madison Avenue for an undisclosed Expect him to deliver his fashion message via an elaborate signed “Sabrina the sum. Fred Wilson, chief executive officer of DKI, confirmed package detailing his collections. Teenage Witch” Monday that the deal had been finalized, but added that scripts and DVDs, LVMH’s plan to acquire the store was included in the original YARD BIRDS: The setting may have been glam, but there were even a cast-off negotiations between Donna Karan and LVMH in 2000 to sell deals to be had at the W Hollywood Yard Sale, sponsored by Disney watch that DKI and her licensing holdings. Guess and the Environmental Media Association Saturday. she had never worn. Ryan Karan herself ponied up millions to open the 10,600-square- Celebs like Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Tracee Ellis Ross and Melissa “One person’s trash and foot flagship through a wholly owned company, Urban Zen, in Joan Hart took the opportunity to offload old clothes, furniture and is another person’s August 2001. and memorabilia, while others, like Christian Slater, Portia de Christian treasure,” she Rossi and Michelle Rodriguez simply showed up to browse the Slater quipped. WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 7 Vera Wang Beyoncé Watch

NEW YORK — Isabel wasn’t the only force of nature to be tracked by career and K-Mart clothing line almost simultaneously; where such fashion-lovers last week. Beyoncé blazed her trail through the antifashion acts as Eminem are nevertheless slicing off a piece of Bryant Park tents, sending everyone into a whirl. the retail pie, and where P. Diddy snags a backer and starts talking So why the sudden interest in fashion? Sure, you could make an about a $1 billion clothing business. argument that since she’s a wiser 22, she can start making style Before New York fashion week started, Beyoncé told WWD she’s decisions for herself. (But mom and stylist, Tina, was there with her indeed hoping to start her own clothing line soon, making it clear every step of the way.) Or you could say that she stopped in at the where she stands on style — “I don’t just want to put my name on Baby Phat and Rosa Cha shows to lend a clapping hand and a few something I wouldn’t wear.” She also mentioned that she was woo-hoos in support of some designers who have their hands in the looking to do something upscale. So we’ve pulled together a little fashion and music worlds. Doppler Radar of our own to chart exactly where Miss Knowles But really, B., let’s be honest. You’re living in a world where J.Lo’s stopped and what nuggets of fashion know-how she might have name is everywhere in music, fashion, film and, of course, the picked up. tabloids; where pint-sized Latina Thalía launched her American — Nandini D’Souza

Friday, Sept. 12: Gianfranco Ferré’s GF Ferré Saturday, Sept. 13: Rosa Cha by Amir Slama Saturday, Sept. 13: Baby Phat by The look: Hard-core punk — zippers, leather, The look: Brazilian bombshell bikinis and Kimora Lee Simmons chains, mesh, camo and lots and lots of black. maillots, served up with an extra side of sizzle. The look: Where hip-hop smacks head-on with What Ferré said: “When she went to the GF What Slama said: “She’s dressed well — young fashion. Well worth an extra bling or two. Ferré show, she wore a fuchsia jacket — a and modern and feminine.” He also noted he What Simmons said: “I love her, she is great. color that suits her well — and underneath, got into her music thanks to his 14-year-old Good luck. She’s got gusto and brains. And if an intriguing lace blouse. This look is an ideal son. “He always plays it.” she makes the kind of stuff that she really likes combination for her: strong colors, a touch of What Beyoncé learned: If you’ve got the body to wear, it will be individual, not a copy of any- Sebastian glamour.” He sees her interpreting that into to pull it off — she does — and the guts to thing. And people will gravitate to it. You’re not Pons “the sexy-sophisticated look perfectly.” put it on — she most definitely does — there selling them something that you saw in someone What Beyoncé learned: Beyoncé could work is certainly a niche for hot-hot swimwear, just else’s line.” Simmons also thought the competi- this look on- or offstage, but she would do watch out for crossing that line into trashville. tion from other musicians-turned-designers is a well to follow Ferré’s example design-wise — “I don’t think she’s going to work on beach- good thing. “The more of us — and I mean nothing beats Italian-made quality. And his wear,” Slama said. “She has a very elegant urban or black women designers or however they penchant for high drama will definitely make attitude, and really modern. I think that’s the want to categorize us, which, unfortunately, they an impact if she decides to pick up where way she’ll design.” do — the better. Everybody uplifts everybody. mom left off and design her own stage cos- The more Phat Farms, Sean Johns, Rocawears tumes. Style-wise, Ferré noted, “She has there are, the better you will do.” character, sweetness and appeal.” What Beyoncé learned: How to get the music industry out for a fashion event. Not that it’s so difficult to do these days, but Simmons, backed by husband Russell, pulls in the top performers for her front row, and her after party rivals Marc Jacobs’ as a place to be.

Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Damon Dash and Russell Simmons stand up for Kimora A GF Ferré punk- The designer thinks Beyoncé arriving A sexy Rosa Cha maillot D THOMAS IANNACCONE; BABY PHAT FRONT ROW BY JOHNNY NUNEZ/WIREIMAGE FRONT ROW BY PHAT D THOMAS IANNACCONE; BABY Lee Simmons. rock runway look. Beyoncé, here at the at the show. that’s definitely worthy show, should wear this of a Beyoncé video color more often. appearance. A tough-chic dress.

Alvin Monday, Sept. 15: Tuesday, Sept. 16: Badgley Mischka by Right Valley BCBG by Max Azria Mark Badgley and James Mischka after The look: Girly, flirty The look: Pure glamour — the kind that the charm at its best, by Golden Age Hollywood starlets would have show, way of Hawaii. gotten into catfights over. Beyoncé What Azria said: “The What Badgley Mischka said: “I’m sure she’ll chose only advice I would have a knack for it. She loves clothes and this give her on launching she has a real sense of style. I hope it’s a runway her own collection is success and it will be,” Badgley said. look to to do it because she “Advice? I don’t have any — she’s got a look take has a vision that she and style and I don’t have any doubts.” with her wants to express, and What Beyoncé learned: The right way to do not just because she glamour — balancing perfect amounts of glit- to L.A. has a large fan base ter and sophistication. But beyond her own for several of potential cus- designs, Beyoncé learned the grown-up way press tomers. It should to dress, leaving all the other young pop tarts appearances. enhance her image, to wallow in tacky when, less than 24 hours not denigrate it.” after the Badgley Mischka show, she wore What Beyoncé learned: their white dress with pink ribbon details on That there is such a Leno. Later, she wore look #14, a pale blue thing as laid-back beaded gown, to the world premiere of her glamour — and that it movie, “The Fighting Temptations,” and look sells; that a girl can #4, a short, white, beaded number, for a pre- work a subtler look, taping of “The Wayne Brady Show.” But which packs just as were Badgley and Mischka ever worried that much punch as span- she might not fit into looks pulled right off gled, scandalously the catwalks? Not at all. “Her body type is a low-cut — or high-cut Beyoncé before the show. Anything in pink little bit different than our fit model, but she — frocks, and that works for just glides into the clothes and it works,” said “sweet” doesn’t neces- Beyoncé, like Mischka. “She’s got all the right curves in all Jay-Z says, “See baby, this is

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI; BEYONCÉ PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER AN CENTENO, TALAYA PHOTOS BY GIANNONI; BEYONCÉ CENTENO AND GIOVANNI TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY sarily mean “not sexy.” this dress. the right places.” how you work with beads.” 8 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 London Gets Growing LONDON — Growing up isn’t hard to do — just ask London’s Boudicca Elspeth designers, who traded their Eighties shapes, in-your-face Gibson colors, and over-the-top styling for quieter, more sophisticated looks with a Twenties vibe this season. The spring shows were more polished, too: shorter and better organized. “Everyone has to grow up sometime. It’s just a question of trying to get better and develop,” said Pablo Flack, who, with Hazel Robinson, designs london House of Jazz.

Boudicca: It’s been the best of times and the worst of times for Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby, the designers behind the Boudicca label. In June, the duo won a coveted, seven-year sponsorship from American Express, but later in the summer, a fire broke out in their East London studio. They also lost their much-loved Algerian tailor, who decided to move back to North Africa. But at least it all ended well: The all black-and-white spring collection they showed was pure magic, with shapely, curve-hugging skirts, sharply tailored jackets and sensuous, high- waisted black dresses with fluted sleeves. “We were just happy to be able to stage the show,” said Broach. “Working with American Express is like having a big brother hold us up. We’re still such a fragile business.”

Paul Smith: Paul Smith spun a rainbow of bright color this season, turning out dizzying stripes, bold flower prints and ever-so-delicate butterfly designs for this very wearable, something-for-everyone collection. And why not give the customers just what they want? Smith, whose business is humming, said after the presentation that preshow sales this season were up 12 percent over last year. True to form, he mixed soft and tailored elements. There were sexy, striped silk slipdresses; fluttery butterfly-print silk tops paired with swingy skirts, and curve-hugging silk skirts with ruching around the derriere. He also sent out stylish trenchcoats, fitted safari jackets and good-looking man-tailored Tata House of Jazz shirts. The designer himself described the collection as “vintage Smith” — i.e., Naka women’s versions of men’s clothing, with lots of pattern and print.

House of Jazz: This edgy label is about as East London as it gets. Its designers were a major force behind the Eighties revival that started a few seasons ago, then started doing sweats. Last season, however, they began to move into more feminine territory, which they continued to mine for spring. There were floaty, cinnamon-colored silk blouses and palazzo jumpsuits covered with a pink, yellow and blue bubble print. The dresses were dazzlers — powder blue, flapper-inspired slip numbers and tuxedo-inspired ones with pleated hems. There was also a nod to Flack and Robinson’s past with skinny, scoopnecked black dresses that resembled oversized tank tops. “What you’ve been seeing for the past few seasons has been experimental,” Flack said. “This is a natural result of that.”

Elspeth Gibson: Gibson started with her signature pretty tulle dresses scattered with sequins and feathers. She then moved onto high-waisted tweed trousers, belted jackets in faded rose prints and pinstriped cotton shirtdresses. Among the collection’s standouts were her beige silk jersey tops with delicate rope-like straps or shiny bunches of shells at the neck. Lingerie-inspired looks, including tight, nude girdle skirts and tailored corset-like tops made from peach silk with biscuit suede insets, were Gibson’s sexiest ever.

Tata Naka: Georgian twins Tamara and Natasha Surguladze swapped their whimsical sketch prints on chiffon for bold, bright childlike patterns on lightweight silks. The colorful prints — of cups and saucers, cakes on cake stands, pears on plates and Paul bunches of grapes — were either embellished with sequins or knife-pleated into Smith camisole tops, genie pants and smock dresses. Grown-up glamour came in the form of a Seventies purple silk jumpsuit with baggy trousers that gathered at the ankles and a plunging halter neck. It was all held together with a gold bunch-of-grapes buckle.

top, gathered dozens of eggs and unleashed call her own in chaos after the Frost French show at the London. “When Fashion Scoops Royal Horticultural Halls. The duo, along with I was young, I some friends, donned masks to resemble went to school ROYAL PAIN: Is the fourth David Blaine, the American magician who is outside Oxford, row the new front row? It is currently holed up in a Perspex box as part of and twice a if you’re dealing with Zara a 44-day-long stunt. (He’s also being cruelly year we used to Phillips, Queen Elizabeth’s pelted with eggs by people on the street.) The A Cliveden room. come to horse-loving granddaughter. crew hopped out of the truck, which was London to shop Phillips sat in the fourth row parked outside the venue, and began throwing carbon fiber, a dark purple mohair velvet sofa and we’d have at the Betty Jackson show eggs everywhere, with the yolk and whites and tufted leather club chairs. The Home so much fun,” on Monday, chatting to a flying onto the manicured, coiffed and Collection spans 3,800 square feet and is she said. “So girlfriend while a posse of tailored crowd. “They’re just having a bit of housed on the lower ground floor of the this store is a paparazzi struggled to get as Zara Phillips fun,” said a friend who was in on the joke. designer’s Bond Street unit. It opened last little wink at close as they could. “I wear week and features two other themed rooms in myself.” The Diane von Betty Jackson, and I’m just here for a day out I’LL TAKE IT ALL: So bewitched was one addition to Cliveden. There’s an upscale store has a Furstenberg with a friend,” Phillips told WWD. As for her customer by Ralph Lauren’s brand new North Atlantic fisherman’s cottage with the disco feeling to seating arrangement, Phillips said she wouldn’t Home Collection floor on Bond Street that breakfast bowls brimming with muesli, and a it, with little round mirrors on the ceiling and have it any other way: “Why would I ever sit in she bought the entire contents of two model sensual bedroom with a Louis XVI feel and sparkly floors. Downstairs, the dressing rooms the front row? Then I’d have to deal with all rooms, right down to the velvet slippers vases filled with pale pink roses. have girly pink carpeting — and a bar, of that lot,” she said, pointing to the snappers. placed casually near the bed. A Ralph course. The dressing room area also leads to Lauren spokeswoman said that on Sunday, SHE’S BAAACK: Diane von Furstenberg officially the shop next door, which is called 85 YOLK ON FASHION FOLK: The dastardly duo of the customer purchased $295,000 worth of became a Notting Hillbilly on Monday when Ledbury Road. A sister unit to the multibrand Dan Macmillan and Anita Pallenberg joined merchandise from the Cliveden rooms, which she opened her first London store on Ledbury designer store, Matches, it stocks Marc by forces on Monday night to poke some fun at have an Art Deco-style, sophisticated Road, her first-ever European shop. The Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Cacharel and Yulan, a the hard-working London fashion crowd. The bachelor pad feeling to them. The rooms designer, who’s been party hopping this new label by former Giorgio Armani designer two hired a truck with a big Perspex box on feature angular black chairs made from week, said she’s excited to have a place to Joanne Jong. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND TIM JENKINS GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWDEmmy Awards Pages 9–17

Super Spies LOS ANGELES — Lena Olin and Jennifer Garner, who play the mother-and-daughter spy duo on “Alias,” showed their softer sides at Sunday’s 55th Annual Primetime Emmys. And the red carpet leading up to it was one of the most colorful in recent memory. Olin and Garner’s champagne charmeuse gowns, by Ralph Lauren and Narciso Rodriguez, respectively, were a tall drink on this sweltering awards day at downtown’s historic Shrine Auditorium. The ice? Neil Lane and Harry Winston, naturally. For more red- carpet fashion, see pages 10 and 11. PHOTO SARDELLA DONATO BY 10 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

THE EMMY AWARDS star bright

The Emmys carpet wasn’t the only bold color this year — for a change.

ollywood finally got the fashion message to lighten up. A rainbow of color — from periwinkle to pink — reigned on the 55th Annual HPrimetime Emmy Awards red carpet Sunday, with nary a star in black. It’s no surprise; after all, most of the stars took their dresses right off last week’s color-drenched New York spring runways. Purple was the color of choice for Kristin Davis, Elisha Cuthbert and Marg Helgenberger, while Sarah Jessica Parker, Sarah Wynter, Joely Richardson and Allison Janney opted for shades of pink, and Lauren Ambrose, Jennifer Aniston and Courteney Cox Arquette were in a blue mood. Meanwhile, white was still right for Alicia Silverstone, Megan Mullally, Kim Cattrall and Patricia Heaton. Paula Abdul, who was busy judging the fashions as she walked into the Shrine Auditorium, said, “It’s nice to see color for a change.” Ever the fashion maven, best actress winner Debra Messing chose a burnished rose and gold Elie Saab to match her hair. “I started the selec- tion process much later this year, but this happens every time: I start putting dresses on and very quickly I start to realize what kind of silhou- ette and feel I want. This feels like sort of a modern Rita Hayworth.” Sarah Jessica Parker had a similar epiphany about her pale pink Chanel couture gown, saying, “When I saw it, to me it was abundantly clear that this was the dress. I couldn’t believe that I had the opportunity to wear it because I think it’s like a confection. I love it so much!” Indeed, almost everyone seemed enamored with their frocks. “Isn’t it divine?” gushed Poppy Montgomery as she twirled in her tea-length ballerina-like Richard Tyler. “I’m not even sure what color my dress is. I’ve heard everything from teal to aqua to sea green. All I know is that there isn’t another one like it.” Even Jennifer Aniston, who usually adheres to basic black, surprised red-carpet watchers in her “last-minute” choice: a short, vintage blue Christina Halston from Paper Bag Princess. Applegate Lake Bell, who also found her vintage halter at the Hollywood bou- in Valentino. tique, offered one theory on the evening’s color code: “I thought red was the new black. But what do I know? I was just trying to be different.” — Marcy Medina

Thora Birch Edie Falco in Sarah Jessica Parker in Kim Cattrall in Giorgio Armani. Vera Wang. Chanel Haute Couture. in Giorgio Armani. WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 11

Jennifer Aniston in Alicia Silverstone vintage Halston Debra Messing in Lily et Cie Couture Kristin Davis from the Paper Jerry Ryan in Elie Saab. by Rita Watnick. in Ralph Lauren. Bag Princess. in J. Mendel.

Cynthia Nixon in Bradley Bayou for Halston.

Courteney Cox Arquette in Carolina Herrera.

Megan Allison Janney in Mullally in Badgley Mischka and Sarah Wynter Elisha Cuthbert in Monique Harry Winston jewelry. in Lisa Ho. vintage Emanuel Ungaro. Lhuillier. PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; KIM CATTRALL, EDIE FALCO, CYNTHIA NIXON AND MEGAN MULLALLY: WIREIMAGE CYNTHIA NIXON AND MEGAN MULLALLY: EDIE FALCO, SARDELLA; KIM CATTRALL, DONATO PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

THE EMMY AWARDS

Joely Richardson and Sarah Wynter (right) slicked back their hair.

Lena Olin (left), Elisha Cuthbert and Janel Moloney (right) wore their on the loosehair loose. In contrast with the sparkle and flash of the Emmy stars’ gowns and diamonds, the hair and makeup were simply elegant.

t’s back to Hollywood,” enthused Collier swath on lips — both Christian Dior Beauty — the Strong, consulting makeup artist for look was an update on Zelda Fitzgerald. L’ Oréal, as he left Kristin Davis’ home Hair — good hair, at least (what was up with “ISunday, just hours before the Emmys cur- Paula Abdul’s princess prom pouf?) — appeared to tain went up. “The collections are so beautiful that go two ways: strong parts and slicked back, or loose celebrities can’t wait to really recognize this is a and nonchalant. special event.” Lena Olin “wanted to look like she did it herself — With color and prettiness reigning on the red car- even if it took two hours,” said Craig Gangi, who gave pet Sunday, makeup artists and hairstylists created the “Alias” star a “sexy, loose and natural” style with looks that tended toward the simple and romantic considerable blow-drying and a flat iron. While Gangi rather than outrageous and severe. And, during the noted the show didn’t reveal any “terribly glamorous 3 1/3-hour show, in the lounge in front of the ladies’ hair,” the actors, overall, looked right, he believed. room at the Shrine Auditorium, Lancôme artists It’s more of a California than Hollywood vibe, busily reapplied, repowdered and retouched what- said Chris McMillan, who similarly sought to count- ever the thrill of winning or tears of losing revealed. er the otherwise retro “Seven Year Itch”-style effect Strong gave Davis, of “Sex and the City,” a of the vintage Halston halter Jennifer Aniston wore “flushed, angelic” face, with a transparent sheer by leaving hair simply parted on the left and tucked fuchsia applied to the center of her cheeks and behind the ear. glossed lips in a Nars sheer called Baby Doll. Eyes More old Hollywood in a Grace Kelly kind of way, Ross Burton, were contoured with a neutral shade of brown, the however, was McMillan’s choice for Courteney Cox Lancôme's brow bone highlighted in gold and extra lashes Arquette. He parted and smoothly combed back her Creative added. “It’s very soft and romantic looking. The dress long locks to suit her “architectural” Carolina — an electric aubergine Ralph Lauren — is such a Herrera. It was a style repeated by other stylists to Director, bold statement I didn’t want the makeup to compete.” great effect on Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer applying Artist Lutz strengthened Christina Applegate’s Garner and Joely Richardson. makeup to otherwise ethereal Valentino with I Nuovi black glit- “I don’t go for French-twisty, poodle updos — you Edie Falco ter shadow across the lids. “It makes the eye very know, what the talking heads on the sidelines tend backstage at smoky and dark, but doesn’t look heavy because the to go for,” McMillan said Monday morning. “All the the Lancôme glitter reflects light.” Combined with single flair eye- best hair on Sunday looked simple and elegant.” Beauty lashes, an ochre wash on cheeks and an iridescent — Rose Apodaca Jones Lounge. WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 13

Marg Helgenberger with a Donna Karan clutch and dress, and a Lorraine bada-bling Schwartz brooch. Earrings, bracelets, brooches, rings, handbags, shoes….The dress is now just one item in a long list on a star’s red-carpet walk.

n case there was any doubt about the glamour of the Jorja Fox in evening, there was plenty of bling-bling weighing down Bill Blass all the floaty chiffon and satin dresses at the Emmys. Just call me “D. Ro,” joked Doris Roberts, sporting a with a I Christian 17-carat diamond ring from Harry Winston. Although starlet Elisha Cuthbert eschewed big rocks in favor of delicate dia- Louboutin monds from Lorraine Schwartz, saying, “I wouldn’t feel purse. comfortable in big honking diamonds,” ringing statements like Roberts’ seemed to be all the rage, with standouts such as the ring by L’Wrenn Scott for Vera Wang on Sarah Jessica Parker; Lily et Cie and Sol Rafael on Alicia Silverstone, and a pink, white and yellow show-stopping ring by Martin Katz on Janel Moloney. Indeed, most of the attention seemed to have moved from the neck to the fingers, ears and wrists this year. Courteney Cox Arquette stacked Cartier’s diamond and sapphire cuffs on her left arm, and Christina Applegate doubled up on Kwiat’s cuffs. Chandelier earrings seem to be here to stay, in variations even bigger and brighter than those spotted at last year’s Oscars. Jane Kaczmarek opted for giant, gold, Indian- style danglers by Reem Acra (who also designed her dress), while Courtney Thorne-Smith opted for Loree Rodkin’s blue ice. As usual, dia- Kristin Davis wears mond king Neil Lane bejeweled the ma- antique Fred jority of the stars, including Joely Leighton earrings. Richardson, who, instead of suited secu- rity guards, took her “Nip/Tuck” co-star Dylan Walsh for protection. “I’m pack- ing tonight, so if anyone tries to get near her jewels, they’ve got to deal with me first,” he growled. In fact, the paparazzi are now so hip to the accessories that women often forget about the all-important dress shot in an effort to show off their jewels and bags. While crystal- studded minaudières from Judith Leiber and Kathrine Baumann are de rigueur for awards, Kim Cattrall carried Tod’s tiny silver corniche bag, the latest in its growing evening bag collection, and Debra Messing was the only one to sport one of Jimmy Choo’s new bags. Several stars’ gowns also featured jew- elry-like detailing. Designer Lisa Ho in- corporated a vintage rhinestone necklace into the neckline of Sarah Wynter’s dress, Helen and Valentino added enough beads and Mirren in

crystals to the sheer bodice of Cheryl ▲ Badgley Hines’ dress to keep her from blushing. “I Allison Janney in Jane Kaczmarek Mischka have beads in all the right places,” she said. Badgley Mischka gown went for the gold and Fred “Maybe models on the runway don’t mind let- and pouchette and with her Reem Leighton ting it all hang out, but I do.” Harry Winston jewelry. Acra earrings. earrings. — Marcy Medina Te c hnically Winners

here are just too many Emmy categories to MINISERIES, MOVIE OR SPECIAL squeeze into one show, so the Creative Pierre-Jean Larroque, “Napoleon, Part 2,” A&E TArts Awards, hosted by the cast of “MadTV,” celebrated the best of the behind-the- VARIETY OR MUSIC PROGRAM scenes talent at the Shrine Auditorium a full Bob Mackie, Cher’s costumes and Hugh week before the main show. Even so, with a Durrant, dancers’ costumes, “Cher — The whopping 24 categories, some — including cos- Farewell Tour,” NBC tume design — had to be cut to accommodate the E! telecast. That’s entertainment, after all. OUTSTANDING MAKEUP (NON-PROSTHETIC) SERIES Angela Nogaro, “Alias,” ABC OUTSTANDING GUEST ACTRESS COMEDY Christina Applegate, “Friends,” NBC MINISERIES, MOVIE SPECIAL Hallie D’Amore, “Normal,” HBO DRAMA Alfre Woodard, “The Practice,” ABC OUTSTANDING HAIRSTYLING SERIES Cheri Ruff, “American Dreams” OUTSTANDING COSTUMES SERIES Christina American Dreams’ Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko, “American MINISERIES, MOVIE OR SPECIAL Applegate Patricia Field Brittany Snow Dreams,” NBC Julie McHaffie, “Door To Door,” TNT PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

THE EMMY AWARDS ALL PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE ALL PHOTOS BY

The Bangles Courteney Cox performed at the Rose McGowan and Thora Birch Kristin Davis and Arquette and “Entertainment at Entertainment Weekly’s Evan Handler at Jennifer Aniston Tonight”/Glamour rock,starsEmmy party on Saturday. the HBO after and party. limoat the HBO party. jamsparty at the Sky Bar.

The Emmy Award bashes turned midnight into rush hour.

he whirl of Emmy parties kept celebrities on their toes Sunday, utilizing every party venue known to man, and making for some Town Car-clogged streets as stars hopped between bashes for Entertainment Weekly, Endeavor, Fox, HBO, TV Guide, Universal and “Entertainment TTonight” and Glamour. “The parties are the best part of the night,” said Sarah Wynter, “and I plan to be at all of them.” As Keifer Sutherland entered the Moroccan-tented Morton’s for Fox’s bash, he greeted his “24” pals, quipping, “I’m late because of limo traffic. It’s a beast.” Inside, his co-star, Sarah Clarke, plotted her plan of attack for the evening. “I hear the Foo Fighters are playing at TV Guide at 11 o’clock, then the Bangles are playing at the ET/Glamour party. What should I do?” she asked. The answer was easy for Portia de Rossi, who flipped open her cell phone to locate her friends. Meanwhile, arriving across the street at HBO’s blue-carpeted affair at Pacific Design Center, Sarah Jessica Parker whispered, “I’ve got to go to the bathroom. Don’t tell anyone!” Inside, as the 800 guests gobbled sushi and tiramisu, James Gandolfini and Joe Pantoliano puffed on their congratulatory cigars, and Stanley Tucci whisked girlfriend Edie Falco away from the crowd for a celebratory meal. “He takes such good care of me,” the two-time winner gushed. Although her show didn’t take home any trophies, Kristin Davis happily celebrated HBO’s 109 nominations: “It was a painless night.”

Lake Bell, from “Miss Match,” at Bai Ling at the HBO party. Fox’s post-Emmy party at Morton’s.

Sarah Wynter Brittany Snow at Universal’s and Sarah after party at The Highlands. Clarke at Fox.

Tar yn Manning at Reiko Entertainment Clea Duvall at Alexandra Hedison and Ellen Portia de Rossi Aylesworthlesworth Alicia Silverstone at Weekly’s Emmy party. the HBO party. DeGeneres at the Governor’s Ball. at the Fox party. at Fox. the Governor’s Ball. monsac.com 888.9.MONSAC MONSAC 16 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 notTHE EMMY AWARDSso suite

The action might have been low-key, but the swag was still in the bag.

By Rose Apodaca Jones retreat,” said Axis Media’s Karen Ahaesy who, along with event planners Melissa Lemer and Lorena nother awards show, another round of Vendinskas, rolled out a carnival-themed spread com- suites. Not so routine, however, was the plete with carousel horses, Renaissance-like tents and markedly scaled-back action that lead up to enormous bean bags strewn throughout the property. Emmys Sunday. Although these promotion- Despite its organizers’ insistence of greater exclu- A al venues remain business opportunities sivity compared with the chaotic free-for-all that its for beauty and fashion brands, the emphasis this past predecessor, the Chateau Marmont-based Cabana, weekend seemed less on hype (at least for most) and quickly became known as, Silver Spoon was just a more on regaining a sense of exclu- megasuite by another name (al- sivity (not always to great success). though with better food, since Sushi In all, it was as much a sign that Roku and Katana catered it). the entire exercise has, in some The wattage? Michelle Rodriguez, forms, become played out as it is an Thora Birch, Raven Simone and indication that many players are Ione Skye at best among the 500-plus now wiser about the process. invaders. Otherwise, the scene was “Suites have gotten so big they best encapsulated by Kimberly have that circus-y feeling. It’s about Stewart, Rod’s daughter, chugging a ‘What can I give you, what can I bottle of sponsor 42 Below Vodka. get?’ There’s no branding whatso- Pointing to the stacks of neatly ever,” complained Laurie Ziegler, folded colored T-shirts, C&C owner who, along with New York-based Claire Stansfield said she and her In2It Media and RPR Marketing team had to keep guests from grab- Solutions, co-produced a lively yet bing the piles and shoving them into mellow suite at the West Hollywood their bags. salon, Point de Vue. Yet who can fault the impolite- For the two-day event, the ness of the graft-grabbing B-crowd Craftsman bungalow housed visiting who are, after all, simply emulating celebrity manicurist Marsha Bialo, A-listers like Debra Messing? Her Mario Badescu mini-facials and dia- antics at last year’s Emmys-tied monds from Jacob & Co. (although Cabana were still a hot topic of hip-hop’s reigning jeweler was a no- conversation this past weekend; show, evidently on his way to Milan the redheaded star was widely re- for the upcoming collections). On ported to have hauled off 30 bags of the patio, Vespa had its scooters, swag valued at $7,000. Messing, by Fifi & Romeo its “canine couture” the way, was noticeably missing and celeb chef Akasha served tofu from the suite scene this weekend. couscous and other organic vittles. Which begs the question: If the “For us, it was about a return to point is getting the brands in the the intimate suites and away from hands of the “right” people, is it WIREIMAGE SARDELLA; JOE PANTOLIANO: DONATO PHOTOS BY From top: At Point de Vue suite, airbrush makeup application. The the ‘Sizzler suites,’” said In2It’s worth it? Amy Balsam, in a direct hit at the For the vendors participating in YSL Beauté station at the Silver Spoon/Allure Beauty Buffet. Joe “buffet” in the competing Silver the HBO Luxury Lounge at Beverly Pantoliano gets a shave at the Johnnie Walker Blue Label/Fred Spoon Buffet — formerly known as Hills’ Peninsula Hotel and the Segal Beauty Gentleman’s Suite. the Cabana Beauty Buffet (in which Johnnie Walker Blue Label/Fred suite. But in the end, we want to build those relation- Ziegler was once involved). Segal Beauty Gentleman’s Suite down ships with people. It’s not about a free fest.” Not that Point of Vue fared much the road at the Four Seasons, the an- As James Woods strutted into a room for his Carita better than many of the other suites swer is yes. Both suites retained a facial massage at the multiroom Johnnie Walker suite, when it came to the celeb depart- truly VIP environment. Only HBO tal- entertainment marketing manager Daniel Martinez ex- ment. For all its organizers’ posturing Fifi & Romeo’s Yanna Syrkin and actress ent — Sarah Jessica Parker, James plained why the liquor company has returned to the of exclusivity, its biggest names were Tar yn Manning in front of the Point de Vue Gandolfini, Kristen Davis and Edie Emmys for a third year: “When we sent out invites this TV guest stars Sharon Stone and suite; (Top) Kimberly Stewart and friends at Falco (with an exception for time, the first RSVPs we got back were people who Taryn Manning, along with Korn the Silver Spoon/Allure Beauty Buffet. boyfriend Stanley Tucci) — were were here last year. We’re such a private suite, we don’t rocker Jonathan Davis. given access to the 14 lines of prod- come across those complications of trying to be bigger.” Silver Spoon, meanwhile, in collaboration with ucts, including Safilo eyewear, Carolina Herrera fra- The list of only producers, actors and select enter- Allure magazine and stationed at the historic Graumann grance, Prada skin care, Kwiat Diamonds, Goldavenue tainment executives targets those who can appreciate manse in Hollywood, was a bazaar of vendors — YSL jewelry and Cosabella. and afford the $250-a-bottle Scotch whisky or $35 Beauté, Tocca candles, Kookoon silk bedding, Parasuco “This is more specific and direct and in a con- straight-razor shave at Fred Segal Beauty. jeans and personal plucking by brow queen Valerie. trolled environment,” observed Stephanie Sparkman Added Mediaplacement’s Britt Johnson, who pro- “We really like the celebrities and guests to be able of celebrity fashion services for Levi’s. The denim line duced the HBO suite: “If the clients are not happy, to walk around and not be shoulder-to-shoulder and did Cabana for Emmys 2002, but did the HBO suite this you’ll burn yourself out eventually. Reputation is all not feel like they’re in a trade show. It’s a relaxation time round. “Everyone thinks they can throw up a you have in this business.” WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 17

bagging a match Samantha Daniels

Samantha Daniels turns matching couples into TV. PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY

By Marcy Medina come out, I’d be holding my breath thinking, ‘Oh no, this is going to be the year that somebody puts the irst comes love, then comes marriage, then matchmaker show on the air.’” Fcomes…an Hermès bag? But it never happened and a year-and-a-half ago she For Samantha Daniels, the divorce lawyer-turned- found herself seated next to an agent who introduced matchmaker whose life inspired NBC’s new show, “Miss her to producer Darren Star. “Right away I could see it Match,” premiering Friday, it’s the ideal happy ending. To was a perfect match, no pun intend- reward herself for each job well done — she’s had 39 mar- ed,” she said. riages since starting her business four years ago — Although Silverstone plays an at- Daniels has treated herself to a vintage handbag to add to torney who only moonlights as a the 100-piece collection she inherited from her mother. matchmaker, Daniels gave up prac- “I knew I had to limit the number of bags I bought, ticing law four years ago to run her so I started treating myself depending upon what hap- bicoastal company, Samantha’s pened with my couples,” says Daniels. “When they Table, full time. “I used to throw a lot would get to the three-month mark, I would treat my- of parties in New York and eventual- self to a fun bag; if they got engaged, it would be a nicer ly I had a mailing list of 7,000 people. bag, and if they got married, it would be a major bag. Then I started realizing how many Once I had a client pay me a very large bonus when he couples met at my parties and I de- got married, so I treated myself to a red Birkin.” cided it would be more rewarding to After becoming a regular at the Doyle auctions and help people get married than get di- vintage boutiques, Daniels also found herself drawn to vorced,” she says. the allure of vintage clothing. Daniels sees up to 100 clients at a Alicia Silverstone, who plays Daniels’ character, time, charging between $5,000 and wears her share of vintage pieces in the show. Of $10,000 for her services, which in- Alicia Silverstone course, there’s no plotline about the handbag collec- clude six to 12 dates and a concierge and stylist. “I always tion — yet. Daniels serves as one of the show’s produc- meet clients for drinks in a casual, relaxed atmosphere ers, reading scripts and making sure the storylines are because when I sit with them, I watch different things based on beauty. that are going on during the conversation, like whether She started to realize that her life would make good they are making eye contact or showing up 25 minutes they can be so they actually make it to the wedding.” TV at dinner parties. “When people found out what I late or answering their phone while we are talking.” Daniels, who says her pipe dream is to host a talk did, the conversation would always come to a stand- If the clients are guilty of any of the above, Daniels is show on dating and relationships, is herself single and still and everyone had a million questions,” Daniels quick to squelch the errant behavior. “It’s all part of hoping to meet Mr. Right. “Obviously, I believe in recalls. “So every year when the new fall lineup would coaching,” she says. “I want people to be the best daters matchmaking and the institution of marriage,” she says.

WWD: Who are your TV role models? Mary Alice Hollywood Stories Stephenson Stephenson: Elsa Klensch, because she agazine veteran Mary Alice WWD: How does fashion in L.A. compare to at W’s party managed to merge fashion and TV in a so- Stephenson has added another feath- New York? forfor KateKate phisticated and news-driven way that was Mer to her cap: special correspondent Moss. interesting and smart. From there it all for “Entertainment Tonight.” The former fash- Stephenson: L.A. has been way behind on the went downhill. There’s a fascination with ion director of Harper’s Bazaar, who remains trends, but it’s not necessarily two different fashion in an overhyped and cheesy way. a contributor and stylist, also has three fash- camps anymore. Like the makeover mania, for instance. We ion shows in development for other networks. all love the success story, but there’s been Here, via telephone from New York, WWD: What was your take on the Emmys? a loss of elegance. Stephenson provides her take on fashion in Hollywood: Stephenson: I was really blown away by how WWD: What do you like to watch on TV? spot-on these actresses were. I thought they WWD: What sorts of stories will you be doing gave last year’s Oscars a run for their money. Stephenson: I love “Baby Special Delivery” for ET? There were less faux pas. Maybe the collabo- on the Discovery Channel, National ration between L.A. and New York is finally Geographic, “Punk’d” and “The Jamie Stephenson: As someone who’s seen the col- fine-tuning itself, but these actresses are fi- Kennedy Experiment.” We have to do lections, I’ll be reporting on trends and nally rising to the level of style that is New something high-fashion with one of those fashion and what to expect on the red car- York, Paris and Milan. shows. It’s so great to see people who take pet. It’s less about who’s wearing what and themselves so seriously get made fun of. more about the people who create the looks WWD: What takes the most getting used to in and the trends. For example, my interview TV land? WWD: What do the people back home in with Gwen Stefani about her look in “The Birmingham, Mich., think? Aviator,” or the transition from Calvin Klein Stephenson: I would say that as a person who to Francisco Costa. It’s really behind-the- usually wears no makeup and all black, it’s Stephenson: My family gets excited to see scenes. Next week, I’ll be in L.A. with the hair and makeup and wearing color. I’m me on TV, but my dad still says, ‘I never Stella McCartney as she opens her first trying to understand the mass of TV, but still see you in a dress.’”

store there. come across with class. DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE — M.M. 18 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

Ready-to-Wear Report

The fund-raiser is expected to raise more than Niteline Relaunches for Spring $350,000 for The Children’s Service Board, which MARKET BASKET is trying to raise $2.5 million for Pediatric Cardiac By Rusty Williamson TALKING FASHION: Oscar de la Renta took the stage Services at Children’s Memorial Hospital in Chicago. Saturday following New York Fashion Week to DALLAS — It’s a new day for Niteline. discuss his craft, life, career and latest collection, as BERNARDO GETS SPORTY: As a sign of its increasing The social occasion dress label, a part of the fourth annual The New Yorker Festival. commitment to sportswear, Bernardo Fashions has big-volume favorite of retailers be- The charismatic designer, whose most hired two executives to work in its new division. fore it closed in 1999 when owner charming stories were of his childhood in the Paula Correri has been named national sales The Nahdree Group went bankrupt, Dominican Republic, was interviewed by Simon manager for sportswear and Analise Hellman is is relaunching for spring. Schama, a staff writer at the The New Yorker. The now head sportswear designer. The new Niteline is staying close talk was aided by a slide show that included such Bernardo’s first full sportswear collection hits to the party circuit and remains a so- artifacts as an outfit from de la Renta’s first stores for fall 2004. Known as an outerwear label, cial occasion and cocktail dress col- collection for Elizabeth Arden that was an ode to Bernardo has put a greater emphasis on sportswear lection. It’s designed by Christyne his apprenticeship at Balenciaga. pieces in recent seasons in response to retail Forti, an industry veteran who along To delighted gasps from women in the audience, requests. Sportswear accounts for 25 percent of with four partners bought the IMG model Ujjwala Raut and the firm’s house the company’s total sales. Niteline trademark earlier this year. model, Brooke Walls, made an appearance in two The brand’s easy-care machine-washable pieces Forti, along with Vincent looks from the designer’s spring 2004 collection have generated $220 million in retail sales, and Mignon, Harvey Berkman, Jaynee that was shown last week. another $100 million in sales is expected this year, Berkman and Gary Hodes, are part- De la Renta continues his busy schedule a company spokesman said. ners at FMP LLC, based in New today by heading to Washington, D.C., to host Correri previously worked as a market specialist York, which owns Niteline along the “Christmas in September” luncheon that in casual sportswear at the Doneger Group and with the Christyne Forti late-day benefits Casa del Nino, a day care center and Hellman was a sportswear designer at May and evening dress and evening sep- orphanage in the Dominican Republic that de la Department Stores Co. Both report to Stuart Pollack, arates collection. Renta cofounded. president of Bernardo Fashions. Hellman also Forti was the designer for the Tonight, the designer will head to the reports to Stephane Dodeman, creative director. Niteline label when it was Smithsonian National Museum of American launched in 1990 by the He-Ro History, where he will be interviewed by National KEEPING IT LIGHT: Belfe is trying to lighten the load Group, which sold the brand to Public Radio’s Susan Stamberg. There, de la Renta for travelers and skiers with its new featherweight the Nahdree Group in 1997. will donate a yellow embroidered caftan with down jacket. Weighing in at 388 grams, the jacket “Niteline was my baby for a coordinating yellow silk brocade cigarette pants is made with feathers from the necks and breasts number of years,” said Forti, from this fall’s collection, along with a de la Renta- of Siberian geese, which are said to be the from FMP’s headquarters at designed Balmain couture piece, to the museum. smallest and warmest feathers. The average down 526 Seventh Avenue in New jacket weighs between 500 and 800 grams. York. “It’s really a wonderful WAVING, TRAVELING MAN: Though Roberto Cavalli The jacket will retail for $688 when it ships next feeling to be reviving the only attended the Luca Luca runway show during month to a handful of stores in the U.S. Lavender, pink label and designing it again, fashion week, the energetic designer was busy and orange were the most popular colors, based on fall and many of the styles for Two fall looks from Niteline elsewhere in town. orders, a company spokeswoman said. In recent spring evoke a sense of glam- designer Christyne Forti’s Cavalli was at a press conference last Tuesday seasons, the company has extended its distribution orous nostalgia from the signature collection. at the Columbus Citizens Foundation town house beyond ski shops to better specialty stores. Thirties to the Eighties, with Rage in Virginia Beach, on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, where it was “Belfe was one of the first companies to start gowns that are slashed and Va., and Mainstream, announced that he was named grand marshal of producing coats with down feathers,” she said. beaded or have jeweled har- based in Oakville, Ontario. the 59th Annual Columbus Day Parade. By “The company tries to find flattering ways to wear nesses. It’s girly and fun, and In addition to its New Thursday, he headed to Los Angeles for two days to down jackets so women don’t look frumpy.” still kind of steamy, with lots of Yo rk showroom, Niteline is take a closer look at the Rodeo Drive retail space Based in Italy, Belfe is known for its active- exposure — jeweled harness- shown at wholesale mar- he’s planning to open this spring, as well as the inspired outerwear and sportswear made of es, sparkling buckles and lac- kets in Dallas, Atlanta and nearby Costa Mesa location opening this fall. technical fabrics. The company also owns and ing. Niteline dresses are en- Los Angeles, the same Then it was off to Las Vegas to check out the manufacturers the Post Card label and produces trance makers for a young venues as the Christyne Cirque du Soleil show, “Zumanity,” Saturday night, Chanel Sport and Christian Dior outerwear, as contemporary woman who Forti collection. and finally, back to Milan Sunday to prepare for well as Giorgio Armani. Belfe plans to open a really follows trends.” “Christyne Forti is the upcoming Just Cavalli and Roberto Cavalli freestanding store in Milan Friday, when the city Among the 50 spring about simple, clean spring shows. will be buzzing with buyers and editors in town styles, wholesale prices styling, but yet very visual for the fashion shows. The unit will be the range from $99 for a mul- with rich detailing such GOLDEN CHARITY: Chicago’s 48th Annual Gold company’s fourth. ticolor pastel triacetate as intricate seaming, Coast Fashion Award Show will take place crepe dress to $129 for a mirrored trim and Wednesday featuring a runway presentation with READ ALL ABOUT IT: Instead of using a catalog to white polyester and sculpted ruching. But looks from designers including Lela Rose, Reem showcase its outerwear and loden wool garments, spandex matte jersey it’s not fussy,” said Acra, Alicia Bell, Palmer Jones, Oliver Christian Schneiders has opted for The Looker, a fictional dress with jeweled de- Forti of the body-con- Herold, Y & Kei and Stephen Yearick. The show is newspaper, to show off its new styles. About 20 tail. Other styles in- scious dresses and being produced by Susan Glick, fashion director of items are featured in the publication, which is clude a coral bead-en- separates in her name- the Chicago Apparel Center. being sent to many of its 150 U.S. accounts with crusted halter dress sake label’s spring col- After the group show, the expected 1,500 their fall orders. The new format is designed for and a pink Empire- lection. “The looks are guests will cast votes for their favorite designer. retail and consumer buyers. waist rayon crepe sophisticated with a bit The winner will return the following year to receive Sales assistant Ina Herzlich said, “We wanted dress with gold trim. of an edge. These are dresses the Gold Coast Fashion Award and present his or to do something for retailers to have in their stores First-year wholesale volume is for modern women with a youthful her fall collection. Los Angeles-based designer to give to customers.” projected at $10 million. Niteline is spirit, regardless of their age.” Kevan Hall was last year’s winner. Stores had the option of personalizing The positioned to attract specialty and First-year wholesale business is There will be another runway show highlighting Looker with their respective store logos. Schneiders department stores, and already has planned at $6 million. Wholesale apparel from retailers such as Burberry, Neiman had “a much bigger response than expected” for signed more than 150 accounts, in- prices for spring stretch from $149 Marcus, Nordstrom, Mark Shale, St. John Boutique posters and display cases that coordinate with The cluding Polly Adams in Laredo, Tex., for a pastel silk dress to $329 for a and Frances Heffernan. Looker, Herzlich said. Shirley’s of McAllen, Tex.; All the black beaded silk crepe lace dress.

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Employing over 1000 people, our downtown Los Angeles facility is a unique manufacturing community and design lab, supported by loyal, well paid employees who receive basic benefits such as health care and enjoy the rewards Sweatshop Free T-shirts of a job well done. Made in LA WWDSOURCING HORIZONS PAGES 19-30

The skyline of Guangzhou, a major manufacturing center.

The Eastern View NEW YORK — China’s growing strength in manufacturing everything from steel to skirts is causing increased anxiety across many industrial sectors. With the end of quotas on textiles and apparel among World Trade Organization members in 2005 fast approaching, U.S. manufacturers are becoming increasingly concerned. A growing coalition of domestic industrial interests is arguing that unless some sort of restraints are imposed on Chinese exports, the U.S. will face massive job losses. But the view in China is not so sanguine. Since joining the WTO, the world’s most populated nation has committed to open its market to foreign competitors in fields from entertainment to financial services, and Chinese authorities are growing concerned that many of their enterprises, which are undergoing privatization, will be unable to compete. For them, the textile and apparel sector is a thin ray of hope. PHOTO BY MICHAEL S. YAMASHITA/CORBIS PHOTO BY 20 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

SOURCING HORIZONS

Following the collapse in Cancún, WTO officials will resume talks in Geneva.

regrouping in geneva

By Kristi Ellis per any progress and tie the hands of U.S. negotiators. tiations and the politically sensitive sectors are all The big question now is how the developing world that remain. WASHINGTON — Weary trade negotiators from 148 will approach the talks if and when they resume. For the EU that means agriculture and for the U.S. countries last week returned home from the col- In Cancún, many developing countries were reluc- it means agriculture and sectors such as textiles and lapsed trade talks in Cancún and started the process tant to make concessions to open their markets to for- apparel, which many developing countries see as of trying to pick up the pieces. eign goods, claiming the industrialized nations were their best areas for economic development. Among the questions they are addressing is not giving enough in the way of cutting agriculture sub- “What has to happen is the big, wealthy countries whether global free trade has reached its limits and sidies, which they said are hurting millions of farmers. have to realize they can’t replay the game they whether rich and poor countries can bridge the On the flip side, the U.S. and EU claimed develop- played at the end of the 1980s or early 1990s where divide that crippled the Cancún talks. ing countries were shooting for the moon and unwill- they promised they would do agriculture reform but Trade negotiators will strive to find the answers to ing to give any reciprocal market access. didn’t, and expect the rest of the world to buy off on those questions in Geneva, in a negotiating environ- The rhetoric from both the developing and devel- it,” said Ed Gresser, director of trade policy at the ment in which developing countries have made clear oped world was deafening, but the signals the top nego- Progressive Policy Institute, a Washington think their ability to affect the agenda. tiators sent are worth noting because if the stances tank. “Some bigger developing countries like India, In the meantime, the fate of the current Doha don’t change, the entire Doha Round could fail. Egypt, Brazil and South Africa have developed a Round of global talks is up in the air. “I think one of the problems we ran into was that a strong consciousness of rights and equal standing in World Trade Organization officials have called on number of countries just thought it was a freebie — the trading system.” trade officials to continue working on differences in they could just make whatever points they suggested, A group of developing countries dubbed the G-22 Geneva and set a tentative deadline of Dec. 15 for a argue and not offer and give,” said U.S. Trade and anchored by Brazil, India and China emerged in consensus on how to proceed. Representative Robert Zoellick after the collapse of Cancún and called for more radical agricultural cuts The WTO will continue to function as a global body the Cancún meeting. “There’s been some good work in subsidies than the joint proposal offered by the governing trade disputes among member nations done, particularly on the agricultural topic, but one U.S. and EU in advance of the meeting. even if the Doha Round fails to be reignited. thing I am totally convinced of is that if large mem- In the end, their alliance held together as did Trade officials will try to regroup and decide bers of the WTO want to continue to engage in tacti- other alliances between African, Caribbean and whether there is any room to maneuver or if there is cal rhetoric as opposed to negotiations, I think it’s other least-developed countries. any chance to save the round, which aims to pry open going to have a hard time reaching results.” Gresser noted that big developing countries like markets around the world to foreign trade by 2005. The dynamic of the global trade body has changed Brazil and India will have to compromise more on their Most analysts claim that the deadline will come and over the years, and Cancún proved the days of U.S. own markets in order to push the agenda forward. go and nothing will move on the global trade agenda and EU domination are ended. “If you see them as saying solely rich countries need until 2005 because of the setback in Cancún as well as In addition, the U.S. and EU have slashed tariffs to do more for us, that is not a great recipe to make it the presidential election in the U.S., which will ham- and quotas on trade over eight rounds of global nego- work,” said Gresser. “If they say everyone has to do more and rich countries in partic- ular have to bite the bullet on farm subsidies, that is a Directional stretch and wovens—both domestic fair negotiating position.” Gary Hufbauer, senior and imported. 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SOURCING HORIZONS

offering anything in return.” regrouping in geneva Gold said it remains to be seen whether the G-22 becomes more powerful and obstinate as a result of Cancún or realizes the entire round could be in jeop- Continued from page 20 ment and competition — became the 11th-hour deal ardy and decides to make more compromises. ing countries that will negotiate on a reciprocal basis, the breakers. Developing countries feared investment “Everything is on hold,” he said. talks could get started again in 2005,” he said. “If the U.S. rules would benefit industrialized nations at the But Julia Hughes, vice president of international and other industrialized countries conclude, however, expense of their own industries. trade at the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles that these countries are trying to get away with a non- The fate of the Doha Round and global trade rules and Apparel, said the 2004 deadline for Doha was too reciprocal deal, there will be no basis for proceeding.” governing commerce is watched keenly by textile groups ambitious. For their part, trade ministers from developing coun- as well as apparel importers and retailers, which have a She said despite all of the rhetoric to make the Doha tries claim they are still seeking to reach a deal despite big stake in the outcome. While the Doha Round dead- Round a “development agenda,” the reality is, it didn’t their push to rupture the talks in Cancún. line of 2005 coincides with the year that quotas on tex- happen. Brazilian Foreign Minister Celso Amorim said trade tiles and apparel will be dropped among WTO nations, “The developing world was watching closely and negotiators would pick up the pieces and negotiate. the quotas are no longer on the official agenda. That wanted to be treated as equals,” she said. “They were This isn’t the first time a WTO round has collapsed decision was made in the prior Uruguay Round of talks. looking for positive signals from the U.S. and EU.” or been delayed. Importers hoped progress would be made on a U.S. The litmus test for the U.S. was the issue of cotton sub- The Uruguay Round, which was completed in 1994 proposal to bring tariffs on all industrial goods to zero sidies and whether the U.S. would make some conces- and led to the creation of the WTO and established the by 2015, while domestic textile groups hoped develop- sions to African countries that sought immediate elimi- time line for the phaseout quotas on textiles and appar- ing countries would give reciprocal market access and nation of subsidies and $300 million on compensation. el, stumbled several times. reduce high tariffs on U.S. textile imports. The U.S. answered with a vague proposal to include Negotiators set a four-year deadline for the Uruguay But the deadlock on the other issues silenced the cotton subsidies in a sectoral initiative with textile and Round, but wide splits between rich and poor nations market access talks. apparel tariffs, which pleased no one. led to several extensions. Ultimately the round took “I’m disappointed things digressed in Cancún Augustine Tantillo, Washington coordinator for the seven years to complete. rather than progressed,” said Kevin Burke, president American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, said Negotiators have a big task ahead of them in repair- of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. the WTO will have to undergo structural changes ing the damage done in Cancún. “What I observed in Cancún is [that] this was well before it can accomplish anything. Trade envoys could not even reach a consensus on orchestrated on the part of developing nations to send “You can’t have a system where 148 countries all are skeletal blueprints on how to reduce and eliminate tar- a message to larger industrialized nations.” pulling the ship or directing the ship,” Tantillo said. iffs and subsidies on agricultural products and how to Burke said he doesn’t think the setback is fatal to the “What we saw in Cancún was the inability to get a con- eliminate tariffs on industrial goods, including apparel talks, although he acknowledged there is hard work sensus on anything, and the WTO needs a smaller group and textiles. ahead to get negotiations back on track. that is charged with formulating policy and making deci- An outcry by four West African countries over rich Jonathan Gold, director of international trade at the sions, similar to the United Nations’ Security Council.” nations’ cotton subsidies contributed to the break- International Mass Retail Association, echoed the U.S. Tantillo said he was not surprised that agriculture down, but it was a set of issues known in trade parlance stance on the global talks. contributed to the collapse in Cancún. as the “Singapore issues” that stalled the talks and led “Trade negotiations have to be a two-way street,” “Agriculture was a key component in the Uruguay to the walkout. said Gold. “There has to be give and take from every- Round but they ended up not making any significant Those issues — government procurement and the one. The developing countries can’t expect the U.S. to decisions,” he said. “They put off the pain to a later easing of Customs rules, as well as cross-border invest- concede and give them everything they want without date and now it has come home to roost.”

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By Kristi Ellis U.S. negotiators traveled to Managua, Nicaragua, textiles and in some cases, regional fabrics. immediately after the Cancún meeting to hold another About 16 percent of all apparel imported into the U.S. WASHINGTON — The failure of global trade talks in round of CAFTA talks that ended Friday. comes from the five nations. Garments are collectively Cancún dealt a blow to the Bush administration’s ambi- To domestic textile concerns, as well as retail and their largest export, though in Costa Rica, the electronics tious trade agenda that could trigger a domino effect on apparel import groups, a free-trade agreement with sector has overshadowed a still strong apparel business. two regional trade pacts with Latin America. Guatemala, Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador and Costa The Bush administration has even stepped into the As the smoke clears in Cancún and trade ministers from Rica is the linchpin to establishing a trading bloc that can act in an attempt to smooth out the differences between around the world assess whether they can save the global rival China. The U.S. also seeks to integrate the bitterly divided lobbying groups in the U.S. to try to boost trade round, U.S. trade officials are scrambling to assess Dominican Republic, with which it is negotiating a sepa- the CAFTA talks. the fallout and implications on other trade talks. rate bilateral, in the CAFTA pact at a later date. Grant Aldonas, undersecretary for international trade The U.S. has set ambitious deadlines for negotiations U.S. exports to the five countries last year amounted at the U.S. Department of Commerce, held a summit in with five Central American countries slated for comple- to about $9 billion in goods. Of that, more than $4 billion Cancún last week to discuss an effort to find common tion by the end of the year, as well as for talks on a broad- was textiles, a trade that’s been fueled by U.S. tariff ground between importers and domestic textile groups. er regional pact with 34 Latin American countries known breaks expanded over the last 15 years, now providing The administration’s goal is to create a manufacturing as the Free Trade Area of the Americas by 2005. duty-free treatment of apparel made in the region of U.S. Continued on page 30 eu official s: long road ahead for talks By John Zarocostas GENEVA — Following the col- lapse of the Cancún trade talks, senior EU negotiators and diplomats said the negotiations will likely remain in limbo at least until the U.S. presidential election in November 2004. One senior official put it quite bluntly in saying the World Trade Organization talks “have no hope in hell” of finishing by the self-imposed Jan. 1, 2005, deadline. The initial assessment of some EU envoys was that, assuming the WTO’s 148 member countries manage to revive the talks, the earliest they could be wrapped up would be by the end of 2006. Both the EU and the European Parliament are expected to carry out an assessment of the Community’s trade stance vis-à-vis the global trade talks next month. The talks broke down after developing-nation members of the G-22 group walked out early, saying no progress was being made. But a number of senior EU officials, who spoke on condition of anonymity, claimed the U.S. also should take some of the blame. The officials contended the U.S.’s inflexibility on cotton subsidies following demands by poor cot- ton-exporting African coun- tries — Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali — contributed to the breakdown. However, top non-EU trade envoys from developing coun- tries said the U.S. was tough but direct on how much it could move on farm trade issues and instead pointed the finger at Pascal Lamy, the EU trade com- missioner, as the spoiler. They blamed Lamy and his team for not doing enough diplomatic footwork with poor African nations to prevent the polarization of the talks. Some trade negotiators, however, said a fair amount of the blame for the Cancún fiasco was due to the brinkmanship by African, Caribbean and Pacific states on the new issues, which ultimately triggered the implosion of the talks. 24 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

SOURCING HORIZONS n.y. makers: looking endangered

By Scott Malone services that apparel makers rely on — everything from button vendors to sewing-machine repair experts. NEW YORK — As the base of apparel manufacturing “There’s a lot of concern that the cluster is disappear- jobs in this city continues to dwindle, a growing num- ing, that we’re losing key parts of the industry,” said Linda ber of think tanks and government agencies are turning Dworak, president of the Garment Industry Development to the question of what, if anything, can be done to save Corp. “That would end up being quite dreadful.” New York’s production base. The GIDC, along with the New York Industrial The same economic forces that are causing manu- Retention Network and the apparel union UNITE, facturers of all sorts to move operations out of the U.S. recently submitted a proposal to the Lower Manhattan and to countries abroad where costs are lower — par- Development Corp. seeking a $25 million grant to start ticularly China — have contributed to the sharp con- a nonprofit real estate management concern that traction in New York manufacturing. But local makers would provide space in which apparel manufacturers face a number of other challenges, including high real could operate, as reported. estate costs in comparison with other parts of the coun- That proposed group, which would be called New try and, especially for manufacturers in Chinatown, the York Fashion Space, would aim to buy one or more aftereffects of the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks. buildings downtown containing about 300,000 square Sources said they worried the decline of New York In July, the most recent month for which data is feet of industrial space. That would provide room for manufacturing could push suppliers out of business. available, apparel-manufacturing employment in the about 2,500 garment workers. city’s five boroughs stood at 32,600, off 20.5 percent The LMDC was created in the wake of the destruction offer something akin to the full-package garment servic- from 41,000 a year earlier. That rate of decline is the of the World Trade Center to manage $2 billion in grants es that Asian suppliers provide, in which the customer sharpest seen over the past decade. In July 1993, the from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban can assign the factory every aspect of production, from industry workforce stood at 83,500, and through the Development. Chinatown’s garment makers were espe- design to sewing and shipping. Nineties the rate of job loss slowly crept upward from cially hard hit by the attacks since, in addition to the “That’s kind of where the industry is working now in low-single-digit percentages. But the rate of job loss slowdown in orders faced by many domestic suppliers, many ways,” she said. “A lot of people doing work in never reached double-digit levels until 2001, when it most of the neighborhood’s factories were forced to close New York tend to be doing reorders and whatever plummeted 18 percent. In 2002, the rate of job loss was for a period of weeks or months after the attacks because requires a quick turn. You need to diversify or you run 15.8 percent. of the security cordon around the cleanup effort. a risk, the world being as volatile as it is.” The accelerating decline of the industry has caused Dworak said the group expects a decision on the grant The shift to full-package services was one of the key some observers to ask whether there’s a danger of the to be made by the end of the year. She added that one of recommendations in a study called “NYC’s Garment size of the trade in New York falling below the critical GIDC’s goals would be for Fashion Space to have a Industry: A New Look?” released by the Fiscal Policy mass level needed to support the suppliers and related diverse enough base of tenants that together they could Institute last month. That study was the first in a pair of

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analyses the FPI plans to release. The second one, due out “short-cycle production,” concentrating on quick turn- in the fall, is to be more comprehensive and run to about 100 arounds on hot fashion items or in-season retailers. pages, compared with the 21-page August edition. Several contractor officials said that, particularly in The FPI was started by state labor unions and today Manhattan, makers have been focusing on that business for draws much of its funding from foundations. The report years. It’s one area where they argue they have a natural noted that contractors who focus on just cutting and sewing advantage — the close proximity of local garment makers to but don’t coordinate all aspects of production — the tradi- stores in Manhattan or elsewhere around the Northeast tional building block of New York manufacturing — run the means that the time from an order being placed and the danger of seeing their business model become extinct. merchandise reaching the selling floor can be a matter of “Their relatively small size is a source of speed and flexibil- days, rather than weeks or months for foreign factories. ity,” the report acknowledged. “However, contractors often lack However, local makers said they face two problems in the the resources and/or scale of production needed to purchase reorder area. One is supplies: The local textile industry is fabric, support cutting facilities and purchase specialized also in decline, which means that in some cases, makers machines necessary to compete in markets for full-package need to order foreign fabric, which adds time to the cycle. supply favored by most large retailers.” Also, the reorder business tends to ride boom-and-bust It went on to state: “Identifying and assisting contractors cycles. Lately, sources said, the soft apparel market has who have the potential to become full-package suppliers will meant fewer occasions where retailers were scrambling to open new markets for higher-value garments and can improve refill shelves to keep up with consumer demand. That, in the competitiveness of the New York industry by allowing turn, has led to less work for contractors, who in turn cut contractors to sell directly to retailers.” back on their operating hours or furlough workers. The number of garment workers in New York GIDC’s Dworak said: “A lot of retailers are asking for full- Continued on page 34 continues to decline. package production, and many New York factories aren’t set up that way. They are cut, make, trim. We need to see some kind of transition toward full-package manufacturing.” For many small firms, the biggest challenge of full-package production is financial. In the CMT model, the contractor never owns the piece goods, it merely process- es them, which means it does not Worth getting into have to buy them or hold them in inventory while production is ongoing. In the full-package model, the customer pays for completed Supima, the world’s most luxurious cotton, is goods on — or after — delivery. found only in leading brands of apparel and This means the factory has to have home fashions. Supima-branded products the money to pay for supplies up front. Abroad, letters of credit — have all the desirable characteristics of cotton which are highly secure financial plus superior strength, softness and a brilliant instruments — are typically used lustre. Designers and manufacturers who to finance full-package orders. Part of the reason for the FPI’s demand the best insist on Supima fabrics. study of garment making was a Visit www.supimacotton.org to find out about growing concern at the institute becoming a Supima licensee. that New York’s increasing reliance on Wall Street as a source of jobs and tax revenue was leav- ing the city and state economies too vulnerable to cyclical swings in the capital markets. “The city economy has become ® increasingly dependent, and I would say overdependent, on the financial services sector,” said James Parrott, the group’s deputy director. “We have a very diverse population in the city, and not everyone can be an investment banker.” It’s a similar sentiment to what the growing movement of textile industry lobbyists has been expressing. At a recent meeting in New York of mill executives, one commented that an economy can’t be supported by people who “just sell stocks, flip burgers and sue each other.” In a sign that the city govern- ment under Mayor Michael Bloomberg is concerned about the future of manufacturing, the New York City Economic Development Corp. is doing a broad study on the industrial businesses in the city. “It’s a study looking at the industry, all segments, consider- ing that it is an important seg- ment of the city economy,” said an EDC spokeswoman. “In this administration, we are trying very hard to reach out to the dif- ferent segments and listen to them to tell us what we can do to them.” She said the study’s goal was to learn “what we can do to help the [manufacturing] sector stay in the city and grow.” Providing full-package servic- es was only one of the sugges- tions in the FPI’s survey. The study also suggested that local makers continue to focus on 26 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 creatingSOURCING HORIZONS consensus

By Joanna Ramey business reporting requirements. How- and merging textile stalwarts Burlington ever, he said the Bush administration is Industries and Cone Mills, and textile WASHINGTON — As global trade talks eager to eliminate the ways mills are scion Roger Milliken of Milliken & Co. were headed toward collapse earlier kept at a global competitive disadvan- The flagging manufacturing base, in- this month in Cancún, Mexico, Grant tage, despite spending billions on high cluding textiles and apparel, has become Aldonas, the U.S. Undersecretary for tech plants. Part of this effort includes a political liability for the Bush adminis- International Trade, was making a pass stepped-up badgering of foreign coun- tration. GOP lawmakers from the South at bringing peace between the U.S. tex- tries, including China, to lower barriers are accusing the White House of foot tile industry and its decades-long neme- other than tariffs to U.S. exports. dragging to help mills compete better sis, importers of apparel such as Wal- To help the administration spur a with inexpensive imports, particularly Mart, J.C. Penney and The Limited. U.S. textile revival, Aldonas is asking from China. Lawmaker concerns about Aldonas saw a chance to smooth rela- mill officials to huddle with retailer and their textile constituencies is also widely tions between the warring sides that was importer concerns and brainstorm about viewed as a potential threat to congres- casting a shadow over the U.S. negotiat- each other’s competitive needs and what sional passage of the Central American ing a Central America Free Trade the federal government can do to further Free Trade Agreement or future trade- Agreement by year’s end. Moreover, a successful marriage of the sides. liberalizing pacts. Aldonas said he decided to “seize the op- “Grant basically floated the idea of At the same time, Republican loyal- portunity and get started right now” on U.S. retailer-importers working with the ists in the Southern textile industry the administration’s new initiative to U.S. textile industry,” said Peter McGrath, have said their support for President make the flagging U.S. manufacturing president of J.C. Penney Purchasing Bush’s reelection in 2004 is waning be- sector more globally competitive. Corp., who is also chairman of the U.S. cause they consider the administration Called the Global Supply Chain Initi- Association of Importers of Textiles & “We need to focus on the textile to be pursuing an aggressive free-trade ative, the long-brewing plan is slated for Apparel and chairman of the National industry...serving a customer base all the way agenda at the expense of textile jobs, unveiling by month’s end. In it, the de- Retail Federation’s International Trade from Wal-Mart to the elegant design houses which, in the last year alone, have de- pressed U.S. textile industry will receive Committee. clined by 67,000 to 436,000. and customers on Fifth Avenue,” said Grant special attention, along with the tool and Also among the roughly 30 people in Although détente wasn’t reached at dye sector supplying auto makers, which, the Cancún meeting were officials in the Aldonas, U.S. Undersecretary for Aldonas’ meeting, participants said ran- like mills, have been buffeted by import importer camp from The Limited, Wal- International Trade. cor between the sides was kept mostly competition. Mart, Liz Claiborne, Gap Inc., Sara Lee in check and, crucially for Aldonas, nei- “I worry that government policies Corp., Levi Strauss and Jockey Inter- ed has grown and about 84 percent of gar- ther side rejected a key idea the admin- have pitted the two industries together,” national. Representing domestic mills ments sold in the U.S. are now foreign istration is pursuing: creation of a Aldonas said about the apparel importer- were officials from Milliken & Co., made, according to government sources. North American Platform covering the U.S. textile producer divide, in a phone Dupont, the American Textile Manu- As a consequence, new Washington U.S., Canada, Mexico, Central America interview recapping the meeting. “We facturers Institute and the American textile lobbying efforts have sprouted to and the Caribbean. need to focus on the textile ind- Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. increase the industry’s chorus and pres- The platform premise has been pur- ustry…serving a customer base all the The Cancún retailer-textile summit oc- sure the White House and Congress to sued before, including by GOP members way from Wal-Mart to the elegant design curred as the gulf between the parties has curb what they claim are unfair trade of the House Textile Caucus and by houses and customers on Fifth Avenue.” widened in the last two years, with the practices and manipulated currencies Congress as a whole in passing legislation Aldonas was not specific about the textile sector shedding more jobs than it by low-cost import competition. Among like the apparel-duty-dropping Caribbean array of government policies under re- had since the Great Depression. At the those agitating are billionaires Wilbur Trade Partnership Act in 2000, which re- view, which could range from taxes to same time, the amount of apparel import- Ross, who is in the midst of purchasing tailers charge has come up short in serv-

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icing their need of more flexibility to im- the foreign apparel imported into the McGrath, who describes himself as a free trade issues related to steel producers in port apparel duty-free, even though it U.S. Moreover, the three regions are the trader who is still concerned about the his manufacturing portfolio. might be made of non-U.S. textiles. U.S. textile industry’s largest export mar- overall decline in U.S. manufacturing “He views the trade deficit as an un- Aldonas’ efforts have yet to quell tex- kets, amounting to roughly $10 billion in jobs. “The manufacturing workers who sustainable situation, an outflow of the tile industry cries about administration sales or 62 percent of all domestic textile are losing their jobs, for J.C. Penney, they well-being of America,” said Ross lobby- inaction. “Grant is in a very difficult po- exports, including cut pieces. are our customers.” ist Maurice Carino. sition,” said Kevin Burke, president of However, McGrath cautioned that im- In the meantime, with Aldonas hoping Last week, the coalition was being ten- the American Apparel & Footwear porters would still need the flexibility in to bring importers and mills together at a tatively called the Free Trade for America Association, whose vice president, Steve CAFTA to buy non-North American fabric, second meeting next month, lobbyists for Coalition, which includes industries “that Lamar, attended the Cancún importer- but he doesn’t see those sales coming out either side are pursuing their strategies are getting beat up on the trade front” and textile mill confab. “He represents an ad- of the hide of U.S. mills. Rather, McGrath to press their trade agendas on Capitol range from small farmers to textile mills, ministration that is a strong advocate of envisions U.S. textile exports growing Hill and with the administration. Carino said. A coalition goal is to educate free trade and now he’s got the challenge under help from the federal government, Corporate turnaround expert Wilbur voters to cast ballots according to politi- of working with the domestic concerns of which he said could have the same effect Ross is poised to launch a broad-based cians' positions on trade. free trade and how you engineer a as the $19 billion in federal subsidies industry coalition in Washington on “We envision the mission to be an edu- [Central American Free Trade] agree- given U.S. farmers annually to help com- Thursday to lobby on the issue of lower- cation for the American people to under- ment that benefits both sides.” pete globally, and which has turned U.S. ing the U.S. trade deficit — now standing stand what's happening here and obvi- At the Cancún meeting, Aldonas said crops into an export powerhouse. at $40.3 billion. Two lobbyists have been ously when people vote, they vote accord- it was encouraging that textile and re- “We need to do a big mind shift,” said hired to press his cause, along with other ing to concerns they have,” Carino said. tail-importer officials identified predictability in business condi- tions as key. “What the retailers are saying is they don’t want to be in a posi- tion where there would be a reg- ular resort to trade actions” by the U.S. imposing emergency tar- iffs or quotas on imports, Aldonas said. Such a scenario is now unfold- ing with domestic textile produc- ers, much to the anger of im- porters, pressing the Bush admin- istration to impose import restric- tions on three Chinese apparel import categories that mill offi- cials claim are unfairly flooding the American market at below- market costs. U.S. fabric, fiber and yarn producers, Aldonas acknowl- edged, “would prefer to not be in that position” of asking for import restrictions. “But at the same time, with each passage of trade legislation,” Aldonas said, mills “have to adjust their plans all over again.” However, Aldonas said he can understand retailer laments that trade pacts under negotiation like CAFTA or the Free Trade Area of the Americas should make allowances for apparel to "It’s only now receive duty-free treatment even that market forces if it’s made from non-U.S. or re- gional textiles. Nonetheless, he are being stressed such bilateral trade agreements should still structure brought to bear “rules of origin to protect” indus- on renewable resources." tries in signatory countries. To get past their differences, Amanda Smith, attorney, born 1972, USA Aldonas in Cancún told im- porters and mill officials, “rather than simply argue their philoso- phies [about trade] with me,” they should work together to cre- ate a joint business model “if the numbers bare out.” Tentatively supportive, August- ine Tantillo, the Washington lob- byist of the domestic manufactur- ing lobby, AMTAC, said, “If Grant can work this out, then I think he should be sent to solve the Israeli- Palestinian issue. The situation here is just that volatile. If the re- tailers want to work on this, fine, then we’ll work on it. If retailers want everything like now, then there will be no middle ground.” Jock Nash, Milliken & Co.’s Washington lobbyist said in an e-mail, “If they do not want to "It seems like a no-lose situation. It seems like everybody wins." deviate from their free-trade absolutism, then this exercise is What if doing right by the earth not only made sense, but made economic sense? in vain. However, the jury is Now you can with Ingeo™ fibers. Made from annually renewable resources like still out.” corn, Ingeo helps reduce our negative impact on the Earth, while giving you McGrath is eager to assuage textile industry fears and pointed the carefree lifestyle of a performance fiber. The world of clothing and fashion out that retailers already are big is changing. Come and lead the change with us: www.ingeofibers.com or customers of U.S. textiles used in 1 800 66 INGEO (USA) or +1 989 633 1746 (Worldwide). Central American, Caribbean The world’s first man-made fiber from 100% annually renewable resources. and Mexican apparel production, which account for 32 percent of ™Trademark of Cargill Dow LLC 15305 Minnetonka Blvd Minnetonka MN 55345 28 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

SOURCING HORIZONS 2005: the china perspective

Continued from page one that American manufacturers are worried about what will happen when quotas on textiles and apparel are lift- ed among World Trade Organization members in 2005. The prospect of cheap goods flooding the U.S. mar- ket and causing massive job losses at factories has Washington worried. Ironically, similar concerns affect China, which struggles with high unemployment, par- ticularly in rural provinces, and the idea that in 2005, foreign-made goods will eradicate domestically pro- duced ones. The crux is that Beijing sees its textile industry as one of the few sectors that will not be adversely affected by the removal of quotas. The People’s Daily, a govern- ment paper that is widely seen as a barometer of official Chinese positions, reported, “Chinese textile firms will be best positioned to capitalize on the agreement.” This contrasts with China’s telecommunications, banking and automotive industries, which are expect- ed to take a backseat to foreign competitors in 2005. Indeed, one of Beijing’s aims is to get foreign investors to help out enterprises that are now state run. Lin Zongtang, president of the China Industrial Economic Federation, said foreign investors are “encouraged to join in the restructuring of China’s state-owned com- panies.” High on China’s wish list is help for its agri- culture, high tech and manufacturing industries. Unlike other sectors, the textile industry is more con-

cerned with meeting demand than future competition. It PHOTO PHOTO/EPA/AP DAI SHULIN /EPA PHOTO BY is also following actions in the U.S. Congress carefully. Workers at a Chinese apparel factory. Last November, the National Association for Textile and Clothing Enterprises was formally established. Similarly, Fuzhou-based Art Textile Technology quickest way to push back our competitors.” The nongovernmental business association is designed International Co. has set its sights on the European Art Textile is also hoping to answer domestic to boost the development of China’s textile and cloth- market. It hopes its export sales will reach $3 million, demand for more cotton fabrics, expanding its current ing industry and also serve as an industry watchdog. It representing more than 5 percent of its total volume, by annual production to 52 million square meters from 26 and the China Textile Industry Association are seen as the middle of next year. million square meters. likely to ask Beijing to execute counter-measures if the “Our medium-term target is for overseas sales to con- “The additional facilities will be in operation in the U.S. imposes new tariffs or other restrictions on tribute about 30 percent of total sales by 2005,” said Chen first quarter of next year,” said Chen. “We are planning to Chinese-made clothing or textiles. Dong, Art Textile’s vice chairman and executive director. supply cotton textile to the domestic casualwear makers.” In the meantime, textile and apparel manufacturers “But our strategy is to expand one step at a time.” Last year, the company spent more than $120,000 on are gearing up for increased demand, both domestic Like Weiqiao, Art Textile made its initial public developing new products. and foreign. offering on Hong Kong’s Hang Seng exchange in Most of China’s large textile companies are vertical- “I see a lot of companies upgrading their equipment September, issuing 218.75 million shares at the equiva- ly integrated and very diverse, producing everything and their existing facilities,” said Katy Lam, general lent of about 6 cents a share. (Share price is converted from fiber to finished products, handling distribution manager of trade fairs for Messe Frankfurt Hong Kong, from Hong Kong dollars.) The company says it will and operating retail outlets. which organizes the largest textile trade shows in the invest as much as $8.5 million to double its production “Some of these companies are not just in textiles,” region, including Interstoff Asia and Intertextile facilities of knitted fabrics in Fuzhou. Interstoff ’s Lam said. “They are also in chemicals and Shanghai. “People are preparing themselves by getting Companies are hoping not just for an increase in other businesses. If you look at the big textile compa- new machines, improving efficiency and by doing more exports, but also for a larger chunk of the lucrative nies in [South] Korea and Japan, it’s the same.” promotion and marketing.” domestic China market. Weiqiao’s Zhang said the com- An example is Yue Yuen, the world’s largest manu- A case in point is Shandong-based Weiqiao Textile, pany aims to increase its domestic market share to 15 facturer of branded footwear, which went public in June. China’s biggest cotton textile maker. Chairman Zhang percent by 2007 from 3 percent now. To reach these goals, It is spending between $150 million and $160 million to Bo said his company will spend about $60 million a the company last week held an IPO, hoping to raise increase its production lines and to boost its materials year over the next three years to improve technology upward of $274 million from the sale of 25 million shares. business. Currently, the firm has 279 production lines in and output capacity and to increase its mix of value Said Zhang, “China’s textile industry has expanded factories in China, Vietnam and Indonesia. Executive added-products. (All dollar figures are converted from faster than global growth. We want to focus on what we director Edward Ku said, “We will use $120 million to the Chinese yuan.) do best; that’s the quickest way to expand. It is also the increase our production lines in Vietnam and upgrade equipment and machinery in China.” Yue Yuen is already a major Now From Nu-Image Fabrics… force in the footwear retail Nu-Trends Knits - your domestic source for novelty arena in China, with more than knits featuring a wide array of stripes, textures, 170 stores including freestand- ing boutiques for such brands active fabrics and more. as Timberland, Hush Puppies and Rockport. It now has plans to enter the sportswear market with the opening of some 40 NU-TRENDS stores over the next few months that are designed to capitalize on China’s Olympics New York: (212) 382-1170 fever. Beijing will host the Los Angeles: (213) 623-5002 BY NU-IMAGE FABRICS, INC. Games in 2008. Yue Yuen’s apparel ambi- tions are not limited to track- celebrating 40 years in the business of fashion - 1963- suits for trendy Chinese. It 2003 • celebrating 40 years in the business of fashion - recently acquired a 73 percent pen stake in King Protex, a manufac- O turer of casual wear for brands 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the business of like The North Face, Lands’ fashion - 1963-2003on • celebratingBroadway 40 years in the busi- End and Columbia. The idea, notes Ku, is to diversify gradual- ness deof fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in the ly ahead of the end of quotas. business of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating 40 years in As China’s manufacturers expand their production capaci- the business of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrating40 40 ty, they are straining the coun- YEARS try’s infrastructure in many yeMarcoars in the business of fashion - 1963-2003 • celebrat- areas. Last month alone, there ingNY 40 - 212-869-8255years in the business 1400 Broadway of fashion LA - 1963-2003 - 213-622-4439 • cele WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 29

were power outages in 19 of China’s 29 provinces, its own partner and its own distributor. Sixty China is a Kong is currently the number-two export market in the events that are very disruptive to factory operations. joint venture between Toppy and Sixty Italy that will world, but much of that trade is goods that are re- New roads, bridges, airport and seaports are being launch five new labels that have been created just for the exported from the territory, a practice that is not added every month. China market. They will be distributed by Novo Concept, expected to continue in 2005. Last week, new shipping lanes to ports in the Black a lifestyle store that is the brainchild of Alan Fang, the Two months ago, the territory and China signed the Sea and Europe from China and Southeast Asia were son of Toppy’s chief executive officer, Vincent Fang. signed Closer Economic Partnership Agreement to announced. The foundations for the Pearl River Toppy reported that three of the labels will debut in help ease the pain. CEPA allows Hong Kong-made Bridge, which would link Hong Kong to Zhuhai and Shanghai in October; it hopes to have 65 retail outlets in goods to be sold in China tax free. The problem is that Macau, are also being laid. In the ports of Shanghai and five cities by the end of 2004. The company, which is apart from watches and jewelry, not many goods are Tianjin, new berths have been added and export investing $12 million on the venture, will spend much of actually made in Hong Kong, which has one of the records were set this year. its effort on Novo Concept. The 25,000-square-foot space costliest workforces in the world. China’s building boom and its increasing openness will open in Shanghai this November and will be home Many in the Chinese industry claim they expect any have led to a huge influx of foreign investment. So far to such China first-timers as JLo, Energie and Killa. surge in exports to the U.S. to take market share from this year, overseas funds have invested more than $33 “Novo offers a very different approach to retail that has other foreign countries more than compete with domes- billion in the mainland. Recent reports of bad loans never before been attempted in China,” said Alan Fang, tic manufacturers, a stance that to some degree reflects a have not stemmed the tide. The American Chamber of Novo Concept’s director. “But the market in Shanghai is growing awareness of political concerns in Washington. Commerce in Hong Kong, which publishes an annual very receptive to new and exciting ideas, and the Cao Xin Yu, deputy director of the China Chamber Business Outlook Survey, found that 78 percent of its response from tenants has been stronger than expected.” of Commerce for the Import and Export of Textiles, member companies are already doing business in Not all Hong Kong companies are as enthusiastic, said China’s increase in its textile exports to the U.S. China and 89 percent have plans for further investment however. The textile industry in particular is preparing was mostly achieved by “displacing other countries’ during the next three years. to be hit hard by the new regulations of 2005. Hong exports, not dramatically increasing U.S. imports.” Recently, Izod took a big step in this direction by signing a deal with Hempel International Group, China’s largest fashion brand licensing and marketing company. Under the licensing agreement, Hempel will open and operate up to 155 Izod stores in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Luxury brands are also get- ting their feet wet in the market. Prada opened its largest store to date in China in Guangzhou last week. The 4,000-square-foot shop in the La Perle shopping center is the company’s fourth in China. Three more are in the works. Men’s wear brand Ermengildo Zegna, which was one of the first luxury brands to enter China more than 10 years ago, has decided to expand its presence by opening in such far-flung cities as Urumqi in northwestern China. The brand, which is also one of the largest buyers of cash- mere in China’s Inner Mongolia, is increasing its number of stores to 60 from 48. It also has a 50 per- cent stake in a garment factory in Wenzhou, which helped the company to localize production and reduce costs. Although many of the West’s best-known brands have been in China for a few years, notably in Shanghai and Beijing, the lure of relaxed distribution rules is enticing renewed interest in EVER WONDER HOW YOUR FAVORITE OLD PAIR OF JEANS retail. This is because foreign firms will be allowed a control- ling stake of up to 65 percent in GOT THAT WAY WITHOUT FALLING APART? the businesses after 2005. Also important, foreigners will be allowed to establish independ- ent distribution for the first time. But it isn’t all smooth sailing. As reported by the American Chamber of Commerce, more than 90 percent of the survey’s respondents cited corruption, bureaucracy, lack of intellectual property rights protection and lack of transparency of laws and regulations as difficulties encountered in China. Finding the right local partner is essen- tial, the survey said. Some joint-venture hopefuls are hiring detective agencies and accounting firms to check out their prospective mainland part- ners. Many of the detectives are former Hong Kong policemen who are hired to hunt counterfeiters, get background information on would-be partners or investigate www.amefird.com fraud. PricewaterhouseCoopers reported that it is expanding its detective services in Hong Kong to meet demand. Chances are, they were manufactured with American & Efird thread. We make the highest Hong Kong-based fashion con- glomerate Toppy Ltd., which owns quality sewing threads in the industry. We deliver the most responsive service to customers such brands as Episode, Jessica, like you all over the world. So please give us a call at 1-800-861-3256. We’ll make you Colour 18 and Oxygen, is getting around such problems by creating as comfortable with us as you are in those old jeans. There is a difference. 30 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

SOURCING HORIZONS

International Economics. cancun casts a shadow Turning to the FTAA talks among 34 nations, includ- ing the U.S. and Brazil, Hufbauer said the prospects are Continued from page 23 the Senate Finance Committee, said the collapse of slim at best. Trade ministers from the 34 countries are policy that promotes the use of U.S. textiles by Latin the WTO talks could have a negative impact on the scheduled to meet in Miami in late November to discuss American and Caribbean countries by giving incen- CAFTA pact. He warned U.S. negotiators to be cau- progress on creating a hemispheric trade zone by 2005, tives to U.S. retailers to buy clothing duty free in the tious because several of the CAFTA countries played but the failure in Cancún means another uphill battle for Western Hemisphere. But CAFTA, which already a “less-than-constructive role” in the WTO talks. the Bush administration. faces a tough battle for passage in the U.S. Congress, “Their participation in the [G-22] and the role of Brazil led the G-22 in Cancún in their stance was also just dealt a blow by the failure of the latest that group in precipitating the meeting’s collapse against the U.S. and EU in an effort to get more con- round of World Trade Organization talks in Cancún. raises serious questions about their commitment to cessions on opening agricultural markets. At least two of the Central American countries trade liberalization,” Baucus said in a statement. “The FTAA is in the same boat as the WTO because involved in the CAFTA talks — Costa Rica and Guatemala Trade veterans acknowledged that those alliances Brazil took such a hard line,” said Hufbauer. “They — took a stance against the U.S. in the global talks as part in Cancún could further complicate the CAFTA talks, took a nationalistic poke-in-the-eye stance.” of an alliance of developing countries known as the G-22, but most claimed the regional trade pact has a good From a textile and apparel import standpoint, the which called for deeper cuts in agricultural subsidies chance of being passed despite all of the obstacles. CAFTA talks are the most immediate concern, although than developed nations were willing to give. “It will deal a blow to CAFTA, but it won’t be fatal,” that pact is seen as a component to the broader FTAA talks. Sen. Max Baucus (D., Mont.), a ranking member of said Gary Hufbauer, senior fellow at the Institute for “From a government perspective, the U.S. and Central Americans are hell- bent on getting an agree- ment,” said Charles Bremer, vice president of interna- tional trade at the American Textile Manufacturers Institute. “The blowup in Cancún amplifies the desire of the U.S. for regional and bilateral agreements.” Bremer said he expects more of an emphasis to be placed on such agreements. Kevin Burke, president of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, said, “I do believe we are making progress on the CAFTA talks.” Burke said it is impor- tant to get the agreement done this year in advance of next year’s presidential election and that it is impor- tant to find common ground with the textile industry, which is an uphill battle. The U.S. has proposed a strict yarn-forward rule of origin, which requires appar- el to be made of yarn and fab- ric sourced within the free- trade area and among the free-trade partners. Retailers and importers are also advocating a new concept in the CAFTA talks that is sure to fuel a heated debate. They are seeking “cumulation” in the CAFTA talks, which means they would like to define as qualifying inputs from other countries that are either free trade partners ® Introducing Check-Net, 31 service bureaus plus or enjoy preferential agree- on-line data management. ments with the U.S. This When we developed would give retailers and Check-Net moves your tags and labels at the speed apparel manufacturers who our global tag and label source in the region a of fashion. Convenient online ordering and tracking, greater availability of fab- network, were we thinking 24/7. Dynamic order routing to the facility closest to rics outside of the region, from Mexico and Canada to your vendor. Faster turnaround of your printed mate- Colombia and Peru. speed, rials. So you save precious time—and money. “We want links to viable fabric industries,” said flexibility, We offer a choice of printing technologies: offset and Julia Hughes, vice presi- dent of international trade flexographic, laser and thermal transfer. And we can at the U.S. Association of or produce everything from full-color branding tags to Importers of Textiles & variable data price tickets—even integrated EAS tags— Apparel. “There should be value? a wide range of choices for quickly and efficiently. bottom-weight fabrics.” Augustine Tantillo, Wash- YES. Yes. We can customize a program just for you. Visit ington coordinator for the checknetdemo.com to see how fast, flexible and American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, said efficient your tag and label program can be, or call he is concerned about the 1-800-257-5540, ext. 3293 to find out more. issue of cumulation, but is willing to discuss it. “One of the issues is how you restrict cumulation,” he said. “Can countries other than Mexico, like Israel, Chile or Singapore, come in and say checkpointsystems.com they want access, too?” WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 31

Te xtile & Trade Report

Solstiss’ black nylon and rayon. Johnstons of Elgin’s black and gray cashmere.

Mahlia’s purple and red polyester, cotton, wool and acetate. Mantero’s black and white wool and cotton.

Cerruti’s ivory and red wool and nylon. Première Vision: Pattern Plays Up Fall 2004

PARIS — What a novel idea. sales manager at Bonotto. “The feeling is more positive hard to satisfy everyone.” After several seasons of showing fabrics that left at this show than it’s been in many seasons.” Faure said the next edition set for Feb. 25-28 is a a many buyers uninspired, exhibitors at last week’s “I’m truly impressed with the number of people little later than this year’s spring edition that ran Feb. Première Vision, which ended its four-day run at the here,” said François Damide, president of the U.S. arm 12-15, thus separating it from the New York runway Parc d’Expositions on Saturday, showcased an abun- of Solstiss, Bucol and Bouton-Renaud. “And the mood is shows by 12 days. “We’re hoping that they don’t change dance of novelty looks — in jacquards and prints — as definitely easier and happier.” their dates,” he added. well as strong pops of color that included various Despite the timing of the fair, which once again ran Basic looks were hard to find at the show and buyers shades of pink, red and purple. concurrently with the New York designer collections, were pleased with all the patterns. Even mills that are tra- This helped create a renewed spirit at the show that exhibitors noticed a solid increase in U.S. attendance — ditionally more reserved in their offerings, such as Italian had not been seen in the four seasons since the attacks something that was confirmed by the show’s producers. knit mill Jackytex, were showing more novelty styles. of 9/11. The economic downslide that followed that trau- Nevertheless, timing continued to be an issue. Overall, themes included a variety of graphic, Sixties’-style ma, meanwhile, seemed to be easing, as well — some- “First buyers said the show was too late, so we geometrics and designs influenced by the Art Nouveau thing that was music to many exhibitors’ ears. changed it to run earlier,” said Daniel Faure, president and Art Deco eras, as well as tweed textures, many of “The climate is definitely better,” said Flavio Ortile, of Première Vision. “Then they said it was too early. It’s Continued on page 32 32 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

Te xtiles & Trade Pattern Plays Up Fall 2004 Continued from page 31 plaid print in pink, blue and green, and a pink, green Color, meanwhile, was everywhere, with a strong con- which featured metallic accents in gold or silver. For many and gray jacquard with a hint of metallic. centrations of pinks, reds and purples. Guigou’s knits exhibitors, archival documents and fabrics continued to Gilles Mendel, designer at J. Mendel, was also keen were offered in drenched tones that included a royal pur- play an important role in designing many of these looks. on layering. At Jakob Schlaepfer, he noted engineered ple in wool and nylon. Other colorful examples included Several mills, Bianchini Férier and Mantero included, floating sequins on silk and cut on the bias that would be a red, purple and gold jacquard in a silk blend at Bucol; a had archive books in their booths for buyers to peruse. perfect mixed with a plaid of some sort, even a tartan. multicolored block print on five-layers of metal and poly- “We have so many requests by designers to see our “Mixing classics with unexpected elements from dif- ester at Jakob Schlaepfer; rayon blended velvets in hot archives,” said Cédric Brochier, president of Bianchini. ferent periods is something of an identity for us,” he said. pink and red at Jackytex; Sarti’s red and black range of “They’re important for inspiration.” Graphic patterning in the spirit of plaids and other wool blended wovens, Bianchini’s multicolored burnout Brochier noted that he will offer exclusives to de- men’s wear looks were on display at many British ex- silk velvet, and Ratti’s graphic oversized houndstooth in signers, much in the same way Mantero did with Prada hibitors’ booths. At Johnstons of Elgin, a large hound- red and cream on a new soybean fiber. for this fall’s collection. stooth in black and gray was featured on cashmere, while Many designers voiced their enthusiasm about all At Etro, designer Jacobo Etro looked back to create at Moon, colorful retro patterns were seen on wool. the color on display. Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley was looking much of the collection. He said: “We’re renewing many In addition to unabashed patterning, many mills to complement his “frightening Victorian garden” theme themes from the past — taking classics and reworking were also offering more handcrafted looks in contrast- with interesting color combinations, such as yellow and them with modern colors or finishing techniques.” ing tones that were graphic in their own right. purple or ink blue and black. “The feeling is very dark Among the new selections were prints on tweeds and At Mantero, a black-and-white wool and silk blend fea- and sexy, and I think those colors are perfect,” he said. tartans in untraditional colors. Etro’s signature paisley tured a flat texture juxtaposed against a more raised one Yeohlee’s standouts included “royal purple, gold and was also brightly displayed on dark grounds. for a soft textural effect. At Lanificio F.lli Cerruti, Nino the reds — from orange to deep burgundy,” she noted. Alessandro Geloso Grosso, in sales at Gamma Seta, Cerruti said, “A fabric doesn’t have to be strange to be At Alice Roi, design director Jason Cauchi was just said buyers were feeling strongly about optical looks, as right. We need to start considering the soul of a fabric.” beginning to formulate a color direction for fall 2004. well as fabrics with a slight ethnic feel, specifically Asian. There, a plaid in wool and nylon had a high-low ef- “We’re going to avoiding black this season, for sure,” “There’s also still a large request for metallics,” he fect as well. Also notable was a straw-colored cashmere he said. “We rarely use red and I think it will be a really said, noting a silk print featuring a satin stripe finished with a small, dobby-like texture. cool challenge to use that color. Alice likes to put colors with a metallic pattern on top. At Laurent Garigue, a simple basketweave created from together in unexpected ways and it will be interesting to At Mahlia, a French mill known for its novelty looks, a multicolored yarn had maximum effect thanks to the see how she would use red.” introductions included many with ribbons or patchwork. bright colors used and the heavy construction of the cloth. Other designers were a bit more artistic in their ap- “It’s taken a while to develop these styles because the “There are no set rules this season,” said Garigue. proach. In place of pinpointing a specific theme or color technology is not so easy to understand,” said stylist Eve “We’re interested in doing things that are about quality.” for the season, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz said, “I’m very open Corrigan. “It’s was like a technical nightmare that be- Edward Wilkerson, designer at Lafayette 148, appre- when I come to PV. I don’t have any expectations, I just came a fairy tale.” At Erica, layered looks were also key. ciated many of the hand-crafted looks he saw. look for fabrics that make me dream. It’s not about geor- “It continues to be important to offer a variety of looks “I’m feeling a direction towards eclectic textures, gette or techno, per se, it’s about something that’s more in one piece,” said Denise De Lange, designer at the things that give a fabric more volume,” he said, noting thought out. Today, you have to offer fabrics that are Italian mill. Three notables there included a black and that inspiration came from ethnic influences and from more than just beautiful. They have to be smart.” silver geometric jacquard flocked in black; an abstract nature. “That makes it more grounded.” — Daniela Gilbert

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A Fresh Perspective Nazarin Matin PARIS — Texprint 2003, which ran as part of Indigo at from the Royal College of Art, Photini Papas from the Parc d’Expositions last week, once again dis- Chelsea College of Art & Design, Natasha Lee from played the textile design works of recent graduates the Royal College of Art and Afet Halil from Chelsea from British colleges. College of Art & Design. Designer Zandra Rhodes, In all, 24 artists exhibited their work in knits, who recently founded the Fashion & Textile Museum Angharad McLaren prints, wovens and embroidery, as well as combined in London, presented the prizes. applications and mixed media. Prizes were awarded “This is just a great opportunity for graduates,” she to the graduates in five categories: Weave, Knit, Print, said. “You know, if you look at a garment, it’s often the fab- Color and Breaking New Ground. ric that says the whole story and the fabric designer rarely The winners, respectively, were: Angharad gets credit. That’s something I think needs to change.” McLaren from Glasgow School of Art, Jemma Sykes — D.G. PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY

Natasha Lee

Elisa Pettigrew

Brie Harrison

Elen Delafouge Jones

Louise Rolt 34 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 Te xtiles & Trade N.Y. Makers Looking Endangered Continued from page 25 Made in New York label. While UNITE Contractor executives said an and other industry groups have made increasing number of skilled and savvy many attempts over the years to promote Price Key at Texworld Show garment workers, fed up with irregular locally made goods as having cachet, hours, have decided to seek out greener industry executives said consumers and PARIS — Coming off a difficult year, buy- around. But people remain cautiously pastures and steadier work. retailers have shown little enthusiasm ers and exhibitors at Texworld said that optimistic. It’s not boom.” “They have a hard time finding work- for the idea, as evidenced by the contin- they expect a modest rebound in the Hee Jung Kang, product manager for ers, and then also, the manufacturers ued withering of the local industry. upcoming fall 2004-winter 2005 season. women’s wovens at Armani Exchange, said, who give the orders don’t have the However, Lai of Greater Blouse Traffic was brisk at the four-day event, “We are conservative right now. We’re patience to wait till [laid-off workers] offered another twist on the Made in which ran at the CNIT complex at La penny-wise, but we need to follow the come back,” said Teddy Lai, executive New York idea. While American retail- Defense, the business district just west of trends to keep up with the competition. director of the Greater Blouse, Skirt & ers and consumers are avidly snapping Paris. Texworld ran concurrently with People like Zara and [Hennes & Maurtiz] Undergarment Association. up goods produced in China and else- Première Vision. are making it very difficult. They pump Contractors also said the intensely where in Asia because of their low Whereas buyers sought high-end fab- out new trends so fast.” competitive retail market, in which prices, he suggested that consumers rics and trends at PV, they ferreted out Karen Camporeale, president of Urban merchants increasingly rely on mark- abroad would find U.S.-made goods to bargains at Texworld, which featured fab- Apparel Group, which manufactures pri- downs to drive sales, means that more be status symbols. rics from 41 countries including China, vate label women’s wear for major U.S. spe- buyers consider only imported fabrics. “If I produce in China, I can sell the South Korea, India, Turkey and Brazil. cialty chains, said she had visited Texworld That assertion is backed up by statistics same goods back to China,” he said. “But Buyers and exhibitors said bargain fab- for the first time in search of value. showing the continued rise in imports. if you have a label that says ‘Made in rics remained key to inciting customers to “Business has been fair,” she said. “It In the year ended July, the U.S. import- China,’ that doesn’t have the same image spend in a sluggish marketplace. Most buy- seems to be getting better…but we aren’t ed $7.71 billion in textiles and apparel, as a product that was made in the U.S. ers said their buying plan for the season expecting a big explosion.” a 12 percent increase over the previous There you have a different level already.” would remain on par with last year, but some Lisa Mason, product development year, according to Commerce Depart- Lai said he believed U.S.-made goods cited modest increases of around 5 percent. manager at Cooper Watkinson Textiles ment data. could command higher prices in China Meanwhile, exhibitors said business Ltd. in New Zealand, which sources tex- The FPI study also suggested that than locally produced products. had been good and some expected to run a tiles for firms in New Zealand and small businesses in the fashion industry Still, many New York makers with small increase in volume during the sec- Australia, said she wanted prices “to be should band together to support one the means are expanding their hori- ond half of the year. But they said that price as cheap as possible. But I still want some another. For small contractors, particu- zons and looking into foreign produc- competition had become so fierce that quality and a lot of creativity.” larly those who focus on only sewing, tion. For instance, the Made in New eking out a profit would prove difficult. She said business had been improving, cutting, embroidery or some other York Group, makers of the Lafayette “It’s a buyer’s market,” said Parveen S. but that she would keep her budget the niche, that can mean forming alliances 148 brand, has opened a factory in Kapoor, managing director of Duta same as last year. that together can produce completed China and is slowly trimming back its Textiles of Indonesia, which specializes in Gary Edwards, senior designer for garments. operations in Chinatown. silk prints and embroidery. “Since busi- Windsmoor, which manufactures 65,000 But the study also suggested that Lai said the members of Greater ness has been bad, buyers are going to coats a season in the U.K., said, “trade is small contractors continue to focus on Blouse, who last year went on a trade competing mills and bargaining down the quite tough. To get clients to spend, there has young designers without the wherewith- mission to China seeking to align them- prices. All of the manufactures are under- to be an incentive. It has to have quality and al to produce overseas and high-end selves with producers there, are plan- cutting the competition. To turn a profit individuality. But it needs to be inexpensive.” couture houses who can more easily ning a return trip next spring. will be next to impossible.” Among the top looks cited by buyers absorb the costs of domestic production “The only way the garment factories Mark Sardella, senior engineer for were bright colors such as green and because of their high prices. can survive is they have to open up their sourcing at L.L. Bean said, “We’re still orange, printed silks and vintage looks The group also said makers should focus,” he said. “It’s no more just one trying to keep expenses under control. It from the Sixties and Seventies. continue their efforts to market the location, one city, one business.” looks like things are starting to turn — Robert Murphy WWDThe Magazine Perfect Bound Magazine: November 3 Close: October 3

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For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, SVP Group Publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 35 Bluefly Taps Payner-Gregor as President Continued from page 2 very involved.” She characterized Bluefly as “a great specialty chain owned by Neiman Marcus Group, and concept with great potential.” intended as a lower-priced version of Ann Taylor, but it “Although I haven’t started working in the company was discontinued after about four years. She later yet, from what I can see, there are a lot of things we can joined Chico’s FAS and rose to president before joining do to make a difference in the business. I don’t consider Spiegel in 1997. it a turnaround. I consider it a growth opportunity, and With the addition of an experienced merchant, we have to bring it to profitability. It’s an entrepreneur- Bluefly’s performance could improve. It has been grow- ial opportunity.” Her first day in the office is today. ing in volume and customers, though profitability has She said she sees room to improve the inventory man- been elusive. agement, both in planning and expenses, and will do an “She brings a critical skill set to our executive team,” evaluation of the vendor base. “There are probably some said Seiff in an exclusive interview Monday with WWD. real buying and margin opportunities, and ways to build “The business has grown to the point where inventory is on the customer base — getting people to know that our single largest investment, so we needed to graduate Bluefly is there. When you are a pure play, you’ve got to to a higher level of expertise to lead the business for- get people to log onto your site. There is no store that they ward. I have no retail background. Melissa brings to the walk by. And how you communicate with them is critically table a very strong merchant skill set on the product important to get them to come back to your site.” side and the analytical side, and she has an ability to in- However, she added, “Bluefly’s brand awareness is teract with people and to lead. She’s coming to the com- larger than the company itself. That shows there’s great pany at a time when our product offering and our ac- opportunity.” cess to new vendors has never been stronger. But we The updated bluefly.com home page officially bows Wednesday. To raise awareness, from Oct. 1 through Nov. 11, visi- still have a lot of room for improvement.” from 40 to 75 percent. Seiff said the offering goes from tors to bluefly.com will have the chance to win a grand The company would not specify the terms of her con- DKNY to Prada, though there are some more moderate prize of 24 pairs of Manolo Blahnik shoes. The winner tract other than saying it runs through March 2007 and brands on the site, such as Levi Strauss at its higher end. will be drawn on or around Dec. 1. Also, through the 42- that she received an option grant. Seiff said Payner- Last year, Bluefly posted a 33 percent gain in net day promotion, Bluefly will give away one pair of Gregor reports to him and that her appointment does sales to $30.6 million. The net loss decreased 74 percent Blahnik’s classic black slingbacks a day. The giveaway not signal a succession strategy. “My interest in the com- to $6.5 million from $25 million. Asked why Bluefly sur- follows Bluefly’s Hermès sweepstakes last fall, in which pany has not waivered at all,” he said. vived the Web fallout, Seiff replied: “There are three six Birkin and six Kelly handbags were given away. Asked how quickly her impact would be felt, Seiff reasons: We picked a business to be in and stayed fo- Also, Bluefly officially launches a redesign of its Web replied, “We will see some of it right away because of cused on that. Second, we found a very good partner site on Wednesday. According to the company, it involves the lack of retail expertise in the business. There’s [George Soros] with a lot of money who believes in the a cleaner look with a white background, models, zoom probably a lot of low-hanging fruit.” concept, and we prioritized our investments very well, capability and tools that make it easier to navigate. This He also said there could be some noticeable differ- so there is a sense that we are not throwing away the includes enabling shoppers to view items in their size ences this holiday season in terms of inventory manage- money.” He said the company operates with “frugality,” only, items that have been recently added to the site, and ment and inventory content, while over the next 12 to 24 adding, “We have weathered these times well.” items in a single category, for example, dresses, hand- months, he expects to see a broader impact on planning, Bluefly added about 10 employees this year, bringing bags or suits; or to view items only by designers they are attracting new customers and keeping them through en- its workforce to 85. Currently, the vice president of mar- interested in. hancements in the Web site experience. Still, Seiff said keting position is open. There’s also a keyword search, enabling customers to customer retention has never been higher, with 74 per- On Monday, Payner-Gregor said that through her ex- look for items that meet their search criteria, such as cent of the Web site users returning at least monthly. periences at such firms as Chico’s and Spiegel, she’s be- “cashmere sweater” or “leather jacket.” According to the company, the site offers about 350 come drawn to turnaround and growth assignments The stock closed Monday on the Nasdaq at $1.60 and designers at discounts averaging 60 percent, but ranging “where you have to understand all the pieces and get has a 52-week high of $1.81 and a low of 63 cents.

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To exhibit call: 888.964.5100 or 917.326.6237 internationalfashionfabricexhibition To attend call: 877.554.4834 or 218.723.9792 October 14-16, 2003 Jacob Javits Convention Center, New York City E-mail: [email protected] www.fabricshow.com Produced by Advanstar Communications, Inc. 36 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

Justin Timberlake, also provides an example that is worrisome for the celebrity weeklies — in categories Spiegel Report Draws Focus to Future MEMO PAD that expand at the speed of light, NEW YORK — Bankrupt Spiegel bankruptcy court protection in dispose of assets and liqui- ALL TIME HIGH: Just when you what goes up often comes down. Inc. on Monday filed its August Manhattan on March 17. It said date or settle liabilities.” think they can’t break any more And other players are still eager operating report with the in the regulatory filing that Such matters, Spiegel said in records, they reach new heights. to come to the tabloid table. Securities and Exchange funds available under its the filing, “raise substantial The celebrity weeklies are looking Gruner + Jahr, despite having Commission reflecting a loss for debtor-in-possession financing doubt about the company’s as though they’ll hit a new peak, three titles — YM, Fast Company the month, and acknowledged facility as of Aug. 23 were $192.4 ability to continue as a going according to scan data received and Inc. — that are suffering that certain matters raise sub- million, with nothing outstand- concern for a reasonable peri- over the weekend by industry because their sectors imploded, stantial doubt about the compa- ing in cash borrowings. The od of time.” sources. reportedly has 30 people working ny’s future. company did have $500,000 in While such statements are According to an executive at full-time on a prototype for an The net loss for the four letters of credit outstanding as frequently found in the regula- American version of the French weeks ended Aug. 23 was $38.7 of the August date. tory filings and operating Wenner Media, scan data shows tabloid, Gala. — Jacob Bernstein million and the operating loss, As reported, the firm said statements of bankrupt firms, that for this week, Us Weekly will not including reorganization recently it was looking for a the sentiment echoes what sell more than 800,000 copies, items and interest expense, buyer for its Newport News cat- many credit analysts have the highest ever for the magazine, LOVE COMES QUICKLY: It’s time for was $17.6 million. Total rev- alog business, and earlier this been saying about Spiegel for while numbers for all three of its AOL to give something back to enues, including sales and $9.9 year was exploring the possibil- months. Most don’t see how main competitors — People Time Inc., which, by now, has million in other revenues, were ity of selling its Eddie Bauer Spiegel can survive in its pres- magazine, In Touch and Star dutifully stuck most of its $114.3 million. catalog and retail store opera- ent incarnation. Its future, Magazine — did similarly well. magazines’ Web sites behind the Reorganization costs for the tion. L.L. Bean has been con- they’ve noted, may depend on “It was the biggest aggregate subscription wall of the corporate month totaled $20.7 million, ducting some investigative due how much they can get for sale we’ve seen on record,” said sibling that dare not speak its which included professional diligence over Bauer. their assets and how soon one Wenner executive, who name. That gift may be Love, the fees of $1.6 million and pay- In the SEC report, Spiegel those assets can be sold to placed numbers for the sector at dating magazine prototype that ments of $9.6 million to land- said while operating under help stop the flow of red ink about 4.3 million copies, nearly has flown under the radar, while lords for lease rejections. Chapter 11, it or one of its co- from continuing operations. high profilers like Haven and Spiegel filed for Chapter 11 debtors “may sell or otherwise one million copies above the —Vicki M. Young industry average, as of the first Living Etc. were shot down. half of the 2003 reporting period Considering how many singles with the Audit Bureau of have bypassed their friends Circulations. making matches for Match.com, At People Magazine, there is any dating magazine is Oldham Buys Name Back From Jones less reliance on scan data but a automatically an online dating high level source there said sales magazine, a business in which Continued from page 2 ventures have included Philippe Starck home were through the roof, while a AOL just happens to be among under the TO2 diffusion label, after the designer’s products, Stephen Sprouse apparel, Liz spokesman for Star Magazine the largest players — which retirement, company officials determined that the Lange maternity clothes and a line of home said its sales were above 1.1 translates into a steady stream of TO2 name wasn’t resonating with customers. products bearing the Swell name designed by million copies this week. subscribers to send Love’s way. Target has attracted a slew of designer Cynthia Rowley and former Times style edi- What caused it? There’s buzz inside Time Inc. names in various categories over the past few tor Ilene Rosenzweig. Two big celebrity news events about a spring launch (when, of years, as it tries to walk a fine line of classy Since foregoing the runway, Oldham’s proj- course, love is in the air), but one merchandise at mass prices — and keep a ects have included photography and designing occurring simultaneously (the source cautioned, “That sounds niche that has allowed it to compete with behe- accoutrements for a Miami hotel. He’s also done breakup of Bennifer and the moth Wal-Mart Stores. a line of La-Z-Boy furniture and made regular death of television star John too early,” and another described The Minneapolis retailer’s other designer TV appearances. Ritter), plus the fact that the four it as “still being worked on” with magazines essentially split the no timetable. coverage: People and In Touch Still, Time Inc. development decided to go the Ritter route, editor Susan Casey continues to while Us Weekly and Star give the project the bulk of her Magazine went for J.Lo and Ben. attention, according to sources As a result, none of the close to the company, while Time magazines was duking it out with Inc. Interactive executive Jodi all three of its competitors. Kahn works on business details. The sales are also a further Ken Godshall, the company’s point indication that People does not man on nontraditional circulation, seem to be losing market share is also lending a hand. to the upstart weeklies, in part While Time Inc.’s other because Us, rather than denting prototypes have been variations People, has picked up a on common themes — shelter sizeable percentage of younger books, lad mags, a mass market readers, many of whom women’s magazine — Love is a graduated from the teen legitimately brand-new idea. In magazines. Us, according to its cover story this week, U.S. executives there as well as News & World Report notes that those at competing online personal services publications, has been quadrupled in revenue from 2001 averaging more than 600,000 to 2002 to $302 million and are copies a week since Bonnie now the most lucrative Fuller left in June, an increase businesses online. But none of of at least 100,000 from its the major players — AOL, first-half newsstand average of Match.com, Yahoo or Spring 505,000. Street Networks — has leveraged But the trajectory of the teen their online success offline, and magazine sector, which saw sales only AOL has a magazine arm balloon in the late Nineties with attached. So that’s what synergy the onset of Britney Spears and is for. — Greg Lindsay

Schön Opts Out of Milan MILAN — For the first time in Federico Piaggi, went to Byblos. its history, Mila Schön will not Helmuth designed only two col- present a runway show when lections for the house. spring fashion week opens in A company spokeswoman said Milan next week. an in-house creative team de- The Mariella Burani-con- signed the spring 2004 line and trolled brand said it would in- offered no details on the cir- stead present the collection to cumstances surrounding Hel- buyers through appointments. muth’s exit. A replacement has The shift follows the recent de- yet to be named. “We just felt parture of Schön creative direc- that it would be better to skip tor Marc Helmuth. Helmuth the runway this season,” the 800.772.0418 took over at Schön last June spokeswoman said. “We’ll revis-

Photo: Igor Perchuk after its previous design trio, it the idea of runway for next Greg Myler, Stefano Citron and season.” WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 37

ONE Omotesando is a 10-story building covering about 53,000 square feet, including two basement De Rigo Profits Fall ASIA WATCH floors. The building is located on the Omotesando Street at 3-5-29 Kita Aoyama in Tokyo. Louis Vuitton’s Omotesando store, the brand’s biggest shop in Japan, is CAPUCCI ARRIVES: Capucci Corp. SpA, the Milan-based within walking distance. Retailing covers from the first 10.1% in First Half design house, will roll out its ready-to-wear, designed by floor of the basement to the second floor above ground, Belgian creative director Bernhard Willhelm, in the while the rest is used as offices and showrooms. NEW YORK — Hit by a higher year versus 67.6 percent in the Japanese market next spring through Itochu Corp., one of Fendi’s 38th shop in Japan occupies 4,600 square tax rate, Italian eyewear manu- comparable 2002 period. Japan’s largest trading companies, which has signed an feet, while Celine’s 34th shop has 3,300 square feet facturer De Rigo SpA weath- Gross margin declined to exclusive import agency agreement with the Italian firm. over two stories, Donna Karan New York’s 21st shop has ered a 10.1 percent drop in prof- 60.2 percent of sales in this Itochu said sales of Capucci will begin next spring 3,600 square feet and Loewe’s 34th shop occupies its during the first half of 2003. year’s first half versus 61.6 per- through department stores, specialty stores and selected 2,830 square feet. — Koji Hirano For the six months ended cent last year. chains, with a plan to open one directly managed June 30, net income declined to In a statement, Ennio De Capucci store “by the end of 2005.” CHINA POWER: In the wake of two work stoppages and $9.7 million from $10.8 million Rigo, chairman of the group, The Japanese partner is projecting first-year sales of in the prior-year period. Dollar noted the effects of events “out severe damage wrought by typhoon Maemi, Evergreen $5.8 million, or 700 million yen, at retail, which are Marine is considering moving out of Pusan, Korea. figures have been converted at of our control, like SARS and expected to increase to $16.7 million, or 2 billion yen, in current exchange as the firm the war in Iraq, are behind us.” Evergreen is the world’s third-largest shipping company the fifth year of operation. reported net income of 8.5 mil- He added, “Retail distribu- and Pusan’s biggest customer. An Evergreen official told Major items to be sold here will include jackets, lion euros against 9.4 million in tion is showing a strong growth The Financial Times, “We’re getting worried about the first half of 2002. in local currency, even if our shirts, pants, knits and skirts. According to Itochu, meeting our shipping schedule, as the situation in Pusan However, operating profits significant investments in mar- jackets will retail in the price range of $667, or 80,000 is unstable due to frequent strikes and the bad weather.” picked up 2.4 percent to $22.1 keting initiatives are cutting yen, to $2,083, or 250,000 yen; shirts from $233, or These are not new issues for Pusan. After a truck driver’s million, or 19.3 million euros, into our profitability. The joint 28,000 yen, to $1,333, or 160,000 yen; pants from strike in May, China Shipping and Mediterranean Shipping from $21.6 million, or 18.8 mil- venture with Prada has been $333, or 40,000 yen, to $1,000, or 120,000 yen; cut- moved 30 percent of their cargo to China and Japan. lion euros. The increase in successfully resolved, ending a and-sew knits from $333, or 40,000 yen, to $833, or Pusan, which was the world’s third-busiest port last profitability came from EID, difficult investment for our 100,000 yen, and skirts from $317, or 38,000 yen, to year (behind Hong Kong and Singapore), has been losing the joint venture with Prada company, as the joint venture $1,833, or 220,000 yen. — Tsukasa Furukawa considerable business to Shanghai, which set a new record terminated in July, which con- had not turned a profit for a by handling 6.19 TEU’s (20-foot equivalent) in the first tributed about $2 million, or long time.” ROLLING OUT: Four brands owned by LVMH Moët 1.7 million euros, in operating Improving economic condi- seven months of this year. That is already more than Pusan Hennessy Louis Vuitton — Fendi, Celine, Donna Karan has handled. Competition for Pusan won’t let up anytime profits versus a break-even tions have made the firm “op- New York and Loewe — have opened stores together in performance during the first timistic about an increase in soon, either. Shanghai’s new port, a $6 billion project, is the ONE Omotesando building. six months of 2002. Prada, as the sale of sunglasses” during set for completion in 2020. — Constance Haisma-Kwok reported, bought out De Rigo’s the back half of the year. In ad- 51 percent stake in EID and dition to the recent signing of subsequently sold the enter- Formula One racer Michael of the proceeds to redeem all prise to Luxottica SpA. Schumacher to back the Sting $100 million of its 12 1/4 percent As reported, De Rigo’s first- brand, officials at the firm PEI Lowers Guidance senior subordinated notes due half sales declined 0.3 percent “await further developments April 2006 at a premium of 106 to $313.6 million, or 273.4 mil- over the next few weeks to in- NEW YORK — Perry Ellis previous guidance of $2.50 for 1/8 percent. As a result, it will lion euros, from $314.4 million, crease the visibility of the International Inc. warned Mon- the fiscal year ending Jan. 31. record a pretax charge to its or 274.1 million euros. Retail Police brand around the day it was lowering its yearly PEI also said it completed a pri- third-quarter earnings of about accounted for 66.8 percent of world,” De Rigo said. guidance because of costs asso- vate offering of $150 million, 8 $7.3 million, or about 52 cents a sales in the first half of this — Arnold J. Karr ciated with redeeming notes. 7/8 percent senior subordinated share, to cover the call premium The firm now expects earnings notes, due 2013. The Miami- and other costs associated with of $1.98 a share, compared with based firm said it will use part the redemption.

Karl Lagerfeld Lawrence Stroll WWD DNR Co-Chairman, Sportswear Holdings Ltd. CE Burton M. Tansky OSUMMIT President and CEO, Neiman Marcus Group Fabien Baron Creative Director and Owner, Baron & Baron Inc. Barry Diller Chairman and CEO, InterActiveCorp Heinz Krogner Group CEO and Deputy Chairman, Esprit Holdings Ltd. Jeffrey P. Bezos Founder and CEO, Amazon.com Inc. Wilbur L. Ross, Jr. Chairman, International Steel Group Chairman and CEO, W.L. Ross & Company LLC Bruce J. Klatsky Chairman and CEO, Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. Jack Mitchell Chairman and CEO, Mitchells/Richards Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Von Furstenberg Studio LP Jed Petrick President and Chief Operating Officer, The WB Michael Kors Michael Kors LLC will doıt. WWD|DNR CEO Retail|Apparel Summit November 5 –7 The Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park, New York City For information, call (212) 630-4779 or e-mail [email protected]

We thank the following sponsors. 38 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003

THEATRE/RUNWAY PATTERNS/SAMPLES d On Times Square. Great a/v system, PRODUCTION Associate Designer stage, runway, 99 seats. 5k sq. ft. Samples & patterns. Full service shop Tweenwear Co., seeks creative indiv. Call 212-302-8818 or 646-625-9200. to the trade. Fine fast work. with excellent organizational skills, 212-869-2699 min. 2 yrs. DESIGN exp. for girls, 4-16, TOP DOLLAR FOR knits, sweaters & wovens. Must be exp. in Adobe & Photoshop/Illustrator. RETURNS,IR’S OR Overseas & domestic travel required! CLOSEOUTS Family atmosphere! Room for growth! DESIGN DIRECTOR Please fax resume to 212-221-7064, WALT ADAMS INC Attn : Cathy Seeking creative self motivated individual with a passion T:800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 TURN INVENTORY for clothing and the ability to lead a very talented design [email protected] INTO CASH!!! team. You need to be fast, aggressive and result oriented. Manufacturers or Wholesalers of Ladies, Design Associate to $50K. Extensive knowledge of denim and denim related styling Men’s, and/or Children’s wear wanted Junior embellished tshirts. Ethnic/Vintage to run clearance sale in retail locations Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 is a must. on East Coast & West Coast from October [email protected] 2003 through January 2004. Opportunity Pls fax resume to: 212-398-0406 *ALL Off-Price* to open joint venture in 2004 in select Or E-Mail to: [email protected] Velour-Rib-Lycra-Jersey retail locations in Prime Outlet Malls. Three by Three 201-861-0033 Arthur Uram Designer Fashion Outlet Inc. Phone: [702] 300-6675, [416] 661-9344 LOW PRICES DESIGNER BRAND MANAGER Cotton & Cotton-Rich Twills, Poly, PC, Designer needed for Newborn, Infant, PR Poplin & Twill, Micros, Nylons, Toddler up to size 6X GIRLS. Supplex, Taffeta, Top Mills, 201.868.4000 Fax Patti 973-812-1731 Major mass-market jeanswear / casualwear company seeks Velour-Fleece experienced individual to manage all areas of branded French Terry Lycra+reg apparel and accessories in all categories. This person will be Drake Fabrics DESIGNER responsible for expanding product offerings as well as 718-389-8902 RESUMES Est. Bridge Co. seeks highly creative FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS &organized indiv to lead team. Essen- increasing brand penetration through creative marketing and Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates tial: strong background in woven merchandising strategies. Must have extensive background in GILBERT CAREER RESUMES bottoms, great sense for color, patterns retail, merchandising and marketing. 275 Madison Ave NYC 10016 &prints, excellent understanding of (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa fabrics, ability to interpret trends & fashionresumes.com silhouettes, ability to meet deadlines Fax resume attn: Robert Saxon @ 212-827-9990. fashioncareercenter.com & excellent knowl of fit & specs. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Knitwear exp a plus. Up to date No Lot Too Big or Too Small. RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 portfolio required for interview. Call CLOTHES-OUT: Updating/Phone Interviews [email protected] (937) 898-2975 PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 DESIGNER www.resumesforfashion.com Fashion Pet, Inc., a large NJ based im- porter of pet apparel, is seeking a free- lance designer to design a new 2004 line. Candidates must have experience designing woven and knit apparel. Please contact Sydelle at 973-484-1000 ext 242 to set up an interview or fax your resume to 973-484-0412. COTTON, RAYON, NYLON, SILK, CASHMERE! Fine Gauge sweaters! Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. Pricewaterhouse Coopers, Kohl’s, 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views Jones approved Mfr. in China. E-mail Admin Since 1967 DESIGNER SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT for more info: [email protected] Leading Juvenile Products manufac- Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 W-I-N-S-T-O-N turer seeks experienced designer for Search-www.manhattanoffices.com its Branded Infant Apparel Division. WE WANT YOUR ORDERS! APPAREL STAFFING Must be able to design and merchan- Large China mfr. seeks new customers. DESIGN*SALES*MERCH dise Infant Layette Line, responsible We have 10 yrs. exp. w/Walmart, K-mart, ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION for all design and development. Must JC Penney’s orders. Large Volume! (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 be able to work in a fast paced team PATTERNMAKER Please call @ [646] 269-9694 environment. Fax resume to JR @ 718- y, 401K. APPAREL JOBS 385-8455. Competitive Salar Well established better private label women’s seeks tal- 1)Retail Planner - Analyst 2) Spec Technician ented first and production patternmakers to handle 3)Prod’n Mgr-C/S Knits 4)Artists: Kids or Jr. Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Designer/Merchandiser pants and other sportswear. Must be technically versed, Intimate apparel co. seeks indiv. with Merchandising and CAD design exp. have good knowledge of fabrics and capable of handling Artist-Graphic-3+yr exp w/a Newborn- Fashion, Junior, Missy & Basics. Min. fittings with customers. Great benefits and nice working 6x/7 genericChild mfr/draw w/a 2-3 yrs. work within the industry req’d. pencil.Photo/Illus nec/exc co. $60-70K Please fax resume to: [212] 779-8183 environment. Send resume by email to: Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 [email protected] or fax to 212-869-5356 Assistant Designer DESIGNER Leading Junior panty and daywear company seeks talented Assistant SPORTSWEAR Designer. Must be a self-starter, Major apparel co. in BOSTON AREA detail oriented & have a sense of seeks candidate to create moderate humor. Great working environment. contemporary missy, petite separates GRAPHIC ARTIST Please fax resume to {212} 679-4260 with 5-7 years exp. Must have a strong Leading childrenswear mfr searching background in woven bottoms, skirts, for a Graphic Artist. Candidate will &jackets. The ability to identify work along side the Sr. Designer & emerging trends & silhouettes. Must Merchandiser in the development of Asst. Designer possess great color, print, & pattern prints, embroideries, appliques and MERCHANDISER Leading Y/M, Boy’s woven company sense w/the understanding of fabrics. mock sketched bodies for newborn, in- seeks creative Asst. Designer. Min. 2 Leading childrenswear mfr seeks a Must be organized, detail-oriented, fant & toddler. 6x girls & 7boys. Will be Merchandiser. This candidate will be yrs. exp. for Y/M woven & knits top. able to meet deadlines, & be a team responsible for the development of Must have great organizational skills, wovens & board presentations projects. responsible for enhancing the brand player. Must have excellent computer image & impacting sales volume. The exp. in Adobe Photoshop/Illustrator. skills. We are amajorapparel co. with a Must have extensive working knowl of Pls. email resume: [email protected] Illustrator, Photoshop & U4ia. candidate will create relationships w/ great work environment, excellent bene- various buyers & analyze business to EOE fits & salary. Email resume: [email protected] or fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. optimize retail sell through. Candidate Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 should have extensive collection and classification exp. Will develop Style/Sku Asst. Planner/Analyst plans, determine price strategy, develop & Calypso St. Barth, retail/whsle op., maintain merchandise line plans for seeks Asst. Planner/Analyst w/min. 1-2 FABRIC CUTTER each season. Individual will be resp for yrs. exp. in apparel planning. Resp for F/T position available for GROMWELL GROUP providing all depts w/ retail & market analysis of sales & MD’s, and calcula- Tablecloth Manufacturer. *Immediate career opportunities available* feedback & prepare info needed for tion of IMU, MMU, sell thru, & OTB. Please Fax resume to: 516-239-6810 Account Executive - Sleepwear..$75K-100K Market (incl line sheets, final prices, Duties include entry of receipts and Sales Manager - Men’s...... $100K assortments & key trends), issuing purchase orders. Proficiency in Excel Import Director-Long Island Loc.....$100K style numbers & color codes and analyze & Word is essential; Bachelor required. Production Coordinator ...... $45K-75K selling from all major accts. [email protected] Gerber Accumark Direct Marketing - Catalogue Exp. .$75K+ Administrative Assistant ...... $45K-55K Send resumes to: [email protected] AITF TRUCKING Patternmaker: Designer - Men’s wear...... $80K or fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. Warehouse & Distribution Ctr. NY/NJ/LI BI-LINGUAL CHINESE Midtown women’s apparel company Designer - Women’s wear...... $80K A Division of Baby Togs, Inc. in 24 hrs. Local delivery, pick & pack, etc. *T.D. Must Have Patternmaking...... $70-80K seeking an experienced patternmaker Intimate Apparel ...... $100K 800-451-8625 or www.aitftrucking.com for knits & wovens. Must be proficient Denim Bottoms ...... $125K OFFICE ADMIN $40-45K *Prod Coord. Moderate Sportswear...... $45K Strong admin & comm. Skills, Liaison w/L.A. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 in the latest versions of Accumark. Design-Childrenswear...... $75K 24 East 23rd St Must be able to develop, manipulate Merchandiser-Children...... $150K office. Be involved in all facets of the business. Corporate loft. Wood floors, brick walls, ALLSTAR TKG & WAREHOUSE and correct patterns on Accumark. Design-Outerwear...... to $75K Fax Resume Attn Carla 201-894-1186 skylights, overlooks park. Floors 2200 Import/Export, Dist., GOH & Cartons Please fax resume and salary Letters of Credit Clerk...... $$$ or email [email protected] sq.ft. each w/ internal staircase. We Label & Ship - US Customs Whse CAD Artist requirements to 212-714-1265 Temp and freelance positions also available. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Allan Gallaway 212-594-1414 x251 Master/Visa 718-945-3500 all-startrucking.com Leading Home Textile Company has Résumés w/out a salary will not be reviewed. E-mail: [email protected] an opening for a CAD Artist. 2-3 years Fax : (212) 697-8637 "ON THE MARKS" experience in CAD required. Textiles GARMENT CENTER REAL ESTATE industry experience preferred. Must FABRIC SOURCING...... 50-60K For ALL office & loft SPACES Graphic Artist PATTERN/SAMPLES be a detailed oriented person and a Fast paced, Private Label company for TECHNICAL DESIGN(All Levels)...35-75K 500-20,000 SQ.FT Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast team player. Please send your resumes PLANNERS(All Levels)...... 35-100K Under Market Sublets - NO FEE! mass market seeks experienced, self work. Custom-made Bridalwr 212-629-4808 to [email protected] motivated, Graphic Artist with strong DESIGNERS(Asst’s, Assoc., Sr.)...... 35-80K Lectra "Modaris" PDF $68K MERCHANDISE ASST...... 35-40K 212-947-5500 illustration skills. Candidate will work [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Paul, Mike, Larry, Don, Jerry or Sherry along side the Art Director and CUSTOMER SERVICE Merchandising team in the develop- Oppty’s for Admin Asst, entry, & others, PATTERNS/ SAMPLES ment of screen prints for boys and both temp & perm available 7th Ave. Fashion House seeks energetic, Call 212-986-7329 or Fax 212-986-7708 Office/Showrm-Great Deals! customer svc. exec. Min. 2 yrs. exp. Strong young men’s size ranges. Must be 14-59 St/Mad-9 Ave.; 1500-10000 SqFt & up DRESSMAKER Call (212) 268-9126 organization & computer skills a must. creative, organized, detail oriented, BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest # NYC listings Pls. fax resume: {212} 947-4609 and have a strong sense of color, PATTERNMAKER Allan Gallaway 212-594-1414 x251 trends and fashion. Macintosh Couture house seeks patternmaker efficient with an excellent command of with strong draping skills. Must be PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Illustrator and Photoshop. Understand- able to create from sketches. Do flat Showrooms & Lofts Cutting Dept Manager ing of spot color separations a plus. pattern and strong knowledge of con- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS PRODUCTIONS 5yrsmgmt exp. Dancewear. Knowledge Please email resume and cover letter struction a must. Emphasis on tailored Great ’New’ Office Space Avail All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. stretch fabrics & Gerber system. So. NJ. to ny@wrightsknit .com or fax to: suits and eveningwear. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. 564 13th Street, Hammonton, NJ 08037. 212-779-2661 attn: Michael Please fax resume to: [212] 869-3849 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 39

Receptionist/ Customer Service DESIGNERS Ladies lingerie co. seeks an individual Apparel mfg seeks the with good telephone presence. Will following: meet and greet customers & assist in *MISSY DESIGNER-CUT & SEW KNITS customer service. Fax 212-481-0455 *BOYS 4-18 DESIGNER *GIRLS, INFANT & TODDLER DSGNR Receptionist Growing Outerwear Co seeks energetic *GIRLS 4-16 DESIGNER individual for reception, showroom Responsibilites incl shopping modeling, light clerical duties, comput- Furla, the international luxury leather goods and accessories market and interpreting er literate. Fax resume: 212-947-3011 manufacturer, seeks talented retail professionals to join the trends into the mass market key item business. Must have Retail Sales Specialist staff of our new Madison Avenue Flagship. Immediate opening for an exp’d, high knowledge of all garment energy Sales Specialist to sell Men’s construction. Must be profi- neckwear at a major Dept. store in NYC. STORE MANAGER cient in Adobe Photoshop and Responsibilities include assisting cus- tomers, partnering with store personnel We are searching for a creative, hardworking, motivated Illustrator. Salary commensu- /local merch, maintain displays, generate rate w/exp. Fax resume: sales. Outgoing personality, with retail individual with 5+ years of store management experience 212-971-2277 sales and/or merch. exp. Ability to work evenings/weekends. 30-40 hrs. per week in a luxury specialty store environment. Must have a strong req’d; as well as computer access. fashion sense, great leadership, merchandising, develop- Email: [email protected] ment and operations skills. Our store manager will be ASS’T. TO PRESIDENT SALES ASSISTANT responsible for ensuring a consistently high standard in sales Challenging exciting opportunity for NYC Children’s accessory company is and service, merchandising, profitability, operations and loss personable, capable, organized and searching for a sales assistant to join detailed individual to work side by side our team. Must be highly organized, prevention. great attention to detail with superior w/Pres. of fast paced Apparel co. follow-through skills. Must be profi- Multi tasking , excellent comp. skills cient in Outlook, Word Perfect and ASSISTANT MANAGER and Import knowledge a must. Great Excel and be able to multi-task in a very busy setting. Will be liaison Candidate must have 3+ years experience in retail working Benefits. Fax resume w/ salary to: between sales, production, design and 212-730-8032 customers so must have excellent with a luxury brand. Experience in staff management, customer people and communication skills. service, store operations, scheduling, stock management and Room to advance. Please send resume /cover letter to: Romar Accessories, cash management is required. Must have flexible schedule 31 W 34th st. New York, NY 10001 and be available to work weekends. DESIGNER ATT: HR or Fax: 212-967-4819 No calls. You must specialize in Missy Sweaters/Cut & Sew. 10 Showroom Assistant SALES ASSOCIATES years experience. Excellent /Receptionist Retail Sales professionals with 2+ years of luxury retail sales Pay and Benefits. Designer Collection requires an indi- Email Resume to: vidual with good telephone presence experience, to be involved in customer service, merchandising [email protected] to assist in making market appoint- ments with substantial retailer list. and sales. Ideal candidate will be polished, professional, Some sales background beneficial! enthusiastic and results oriented. Please send resume to: [212] 334-5168 Designer Please send resume with salary requirements to: Fashion Forward Jeanswear SWEATERS/KNITS Email: [email protected] or T.D. Menswear/Knits...... $80K Fax: [212] 685-5910 Sleepwear/Slipper Sales Mfr. seeking YM/Junior Sweater Prod’n Mgr...... $65K Growing ladies’ & children’s sleepwear / Designer for streetwear Spec Tech Sweaters...... $55K slipper Co. Seeking exp. salespeople label. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 with established contacts with major chains & specialty stores. Fax resumes: Please fax resume to 212-202-4396 212-563-6899 T.D. Foundation...... $75K T.D. Jeanswear Bottoms...... $75-80K Account Executive SALES AGENTS Resort/Swimwear Reps T.D. Outerwear...... $80-90K Big Indian mfr seeks agents to bring New company selling contemporary T.D. Wovens/Tops...... $70K 75,000 - 100,000 new customers in junior, missy, men’s, beach bags that interchange into high PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Careerwear Dresses. Better Designer One of the leaders in the Activewear / knits/woven better price garments. Textile Printing & quality towel seeks multi line reps Fabric converter is looking for an [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Outerwear industry is looking for an We have 15 years experience. Email: with a following of resort/swimwear indiv. with excellent computer skills- experienced Account Executive with [email protected] Fabric Sales / Broker buyers. All territories available. (Micro, Excel a must), Spreadsheets, accounts in this industry at the mid Contact Betsy Gleijeses (314) 368-3514 P.O.’s, LAB Dips, Rec. Pkgs. Must be Asuccessful textile printer in Buena Technical Design Director tier level, i.e. Kohls, Sears, Penny’s... Park is looking for sales person, active detail oriented & good with numbers. Cut+Sew Knit Bkgrd Only Fantastic company with outstanding Please fax resume to (212) 354-1950 or retired, who has strong contacts Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 benefits. Must have experience in sell- with major garment mfrs. No exp ing boys/children’s sizes. Inside sales, Sales Asst - Bon Bebe req’d. For details, please call or fax ROAD REP Production Asst. some travel involved. Ms. Sommers Leading Layette Importer seeks moti- resume to: Wayne Sok, Tel: 714-739- Established missy moderate update 212-878-2000, fax to 212-949-3928 or vated individual with min 1 yr Import 3844 Fax: 714-739-3840 novelty sweater/knit importer needs Dress importer seeks organized/detail Tech Specs Person E-mail to [email protected] oriented person to assist in all aspects Exp in jr, missy, kids, large size specs, Apparel experience. Will handle In- "road warriors" w/strong specialty store of prod’n. Must know Excel/Lotus. Min. gradings, fittings. Min 5 yrs exp, house sales to spec. stores plus assist following. Opportunity to earn great money. Call, fax or email resume to: 2 yrs. exp. Fax resume: [212] 921-1987 Orient communication, computer exp senior sales staff. Must be detail orient- amust, bilingual Chinese a plus, organ- ed w/ strong computer and org skills. Nancy or Lisa Tel: 212-302-3744 ized team player. Salary based on exp. Assistant Sales / Fax resume to 212-695-4508 Fax: 212-302-8589 Production Coordinator Fax resume: Tina (212) 819-0244 email: [email protected] Established fabric & outerwear company seeks organized & detailed individual Account Executive for import prod’n coordinator.Must have Global knitwear co. seeks aggressive Textile Artist individual to assist in sales & product strong exp. with fabric & garment con- Leading Home Textile Company has structions. Excellent follow-up in all development and to liaise with design an opening for a Textile Artist. Must &production. Min. 3-5 yrs mass market phases of production with overseas. have 2-3 years experience as a textile Computer literate a must. Minimum 3 yrs. private label experience. Candidate SALES artist. Must be a detailed oriented should have excellent presentation + experience required. Fluent English person and a team player. COME JOIN A SUCCESSFUL COMPANY Curve catching, color driven, sizzling, & Chinese. Great Opportunity! and communication skills. Attention to ON THE RISE AND HERE TO STAY! sexy, and sporty. AMERICAN DREAM Please send your resumes to detail and multi tasking a must. Email Send resume & salary requirements to [email protected] Leading packaging/label Co., specializing is a new streetwear/active collection Fax: [212] 869-5898 resume with salary requirements to: in paper and woven products is searching keenly focused for the contemporary E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] for the right account executive to join customer. Original in design with our rapidly growing sales team. Large groups featuring grommets, rhine- Textile Service Art Studio growth opportunity for the motivated stones, snaps, grosgrain, buckles, se- Production Manager SALES REP individual. Sales experience in the ap- quins, and zipper treatments. All on Growing home fashion importer seeks Textile Design Studio seeking: FREELANCE PATTERNMAKER parel business and computer literacy fabulous stretch knit fabrics. Seeks re- Experienced in dresses, sportswear, person with min. 4 years exp. Commu- Exp’d sales rep with knowledge & is required. For any and all inquiries, following for their CAD & hand painted gional reps who have a specialty store and childrenswear. Will work from nicating with US customer for product Ladies Sales Executive please fax resume to: {212} 279-6195 following. Fax (212) 382-1791, call (212) development & after-order follow up. Dept. Excellent terms & conditions. Excellent opp for dynamic, outgoing indi- home Fast and accurate. Please call Call: [212] 629-9109, ext. 10 354-1991 or see us at Coterie Pier 90, 631-273-3111 College degree, strong follow-up and vidual w. min 3 yrs sales exp. Handle acct booth 955. computer skills. Please e-mail: TEXTILE ARTISTS list of better specialty stores + some dept. [email protected] or Exp’d freelance artists for hand painted store business. Must be excel and word Fax: [917] 256.1992, [212] 689-0936 Dept. Fax resume to: [212] 502-4168 proficient. Email: [email protected] SALES EXEC $$$$$$ Fax resume: 212-575-4717 Estab wovens Co. May Co Connections PRODUCTION Attn: Ladies Division FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 WAL-MART WAL-MART PATTERNMAKER Production Coordinator $45K Major apparel co. in BOSTON AREA Must Know All Programs seeks exp’d production patternmaker. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Sales Executive Must have knowledge of grading "MAGIC JEANS" Leading YM’s/Boy’s wear company missy patterns to petite & womens seeks aggressive individual. Min. 3-5 sizes. Must have 10 yrs exp. concentrat- SALES MANAGER yrs. exp. w/ est’d. retail contacts in our ed in wovens & stretch fabrics for Large China vertical junior denim mfr market. Travel a must. Salary/Comm. pants, skirts & jackets. We are a major 1407 B’way showroom seeks salesperson Email resume to: [email protected] apparel co. with a great work environ- w/ active contacts in off-price/mass mar- ment, excellent benefits and salary. ket. Excellent prospect. Salary+Comm. Fax resumes to: H.R. 617-332-3260 Fax resume to: 212-827-0011 or E-mail: [email protected] SALES PRO Est’d import Co. seeks exp’d Sales Exec. PRIVATE LABEL SALES to sell budget & popular priced Jr., Mis- Canadian vertical cut/sew knit mfr sy & Large size woven blouses. Must have est’d contacts with major chains with well established NY office is seek- &specialty stores. Product development Product Mgr-Prod Dvlpmt ing experienced salesperson. Must be Leading childrenswear co seeks a detail oriented, organized & motivated. background a must. Minimum 5 yrs. exp. Product Manager. Involves all aspects We are pleased to announce that Must have current mid or exec level Great growth opportunity. Sal./Comm. of product development from design merchant contacts in better moderate Please fax resume to: [212] 768-7725 inception to release to factory. Will Ilene Peligal market. Fax resume and salary require- maintain & handle line plans, style ments to (212) 382-2147. tracking & seasonal status repts. Will has joined our Creative Services Dept. work closely with Tech Designers, Immediate openings in the following Sampleroom & Merchandising areas. areas: Planning, Buying, & Fashion. PRIVATE LABEL Sales Professional Will standardize & approve raw material Women’scontemporary, multi-line show- dvlpmt & be resp for maintaining www.tuttleagency.com SALES WANTED! room. Great opportunity for motivated, sample lines. Must know AS400, Word, Fax resumes: 212-499-9164 Billion dollar manufacturer from organized, articulate team player. Must Excel & PC-CAD. Min 2 yrs exp req’d. China looking for PRIVATE LABEL have experience in contemporary mar- Please email your resume to: Attn: Ilene Or email: salesperson. Good connections with ket. Computer skills a necessity. [email protected] or fax: (212) 643-2826. [email protected] retailers / wholesalers is a MUST. Please fax resume 212.302.0680 or No phone calls. EOE. Fax resume to 212-719-2608 e-mail [email protected] YOUR LEFT HAND LIVES FOR LOVE. YOUR RIGHT HAND LIVES FOR THE MOMENT. YOUR LEFT HAND WANTS TO BE HELD. YOUR RIGHT HAND WANTS TO BE HELD HIGH. WOMEN OF THE WORLD, RAISE YOUR RIGHT HAND.

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