ENGLISH

PLACES OF INTEREST

A walk through art and history BETWEEN THE TWO CITIES

E CASTA N I VIA G O T N VIA T AN E E PI Monastero di Valmarina T VALVERDE IN A AL P A . VI A I A IN VI VIA P M A

R V RA CONCA FIORITA T I A. . A A I G E BARNAB A N I

M I A A V R VIA T P

I A TU G A I

I OR R A. V . I C F OLI V Parco dei Colli di ON IA IA BAION RE SS A V A VIA FA Parco del Castello SCE

I NC

D I NZ O journey between the two cities, one on the I

di S. Vigilio T C A

T I Z

I A E Z V P L

IA IN E CO I O PIAZZALE

STA D P EL H Lazzaretto

NT I N . D O

IN E G O A T OLIMPIADI

L TE IA B T

Castello di EL E Campo IA V . hill and the other on the plain, different yet T S V A O R A I

San Vigilio AMI RO C LINO Utili AN IA O V AB

V D LE C TOV I N Z A A AL C AN

F SS IA RO G. M E V AR L LE V A IA O LARGO I VI V I

C A A T

’ M E T T IA Stadio DELLO

N A VIA N. linked by history and interwoven streets, C A E SAN VIGILIO A H A . R S DA

V I RC VI A SPORT AG D O NAD NI A I ZZ S R ORTO BOTANICO U SP BE A A O M G. L T T R L VIA SAN VIA SO IA IS E PIAZZALE alleys and stairways. Bergamo is a treasure trove, VIG V G ILI D O A VALVERDE ND A L. E M I GOISIS AIG G L V V R R O E E IA E Ostello E EN . B G. R ON P O CR A Z V W A LAZ ETT ES S della Z I VI I DEL ZAR CE E protected yet open to those who wish to see her, A A P A P I N C Gioventù LA S SCALETTA I Y U V ZI .

OR U M AL G

C DO COLLE APERTO A D

S R RT SI I A V E O R LT E P S VI L VI IA O O N E T . A I A L D N LL V B PORTA N L A R R I E . IA SU O C. O G A N B PI UR E A P A Z D E T V for those who yearn to explore her narrow corners D VI M VI P. O AI R TR L IA D CITTÀ ALTA GARIBALDI DA I O Monastero TA OR I S. NAZ R ON A V N I N O A E N (PORTA DI O I . IR A . L O IR V B I I C A R . V di Astino S A G AM H V AS STRADA S. LORENZO) A M G IA CONTRADELL VI L A C L O Stazione VI . A E T PORTA A A I SA E V V L of medieval architecture, the lightness of Venetian VI funicolare IA A N O A B S. ALESSANDRO I L ORG A T I RN O V . N DO CANALE LLA V DEL SU VI ATB LINEA 1 P. S. IA I IA A DE LOR ZO R L’ V RO LARGO COLLE APERTO E N OS I A G D S D LI OR AN E N TI S LL I D S V I LE T O I S colonnades, the strength of the stones that gird A A PIAZZA DELLA LA L CCO E E S. A BO O L LL N A . Parco VIA DE VIA D L N P CITTADELLA ELLA FA E R R . A A A C I SA C la Crotta T O D G V I OR IA A B VA E U E IA GO V G V R D A P.ZZA R IN the city and the breeze of the mountains behind it. R E IA A R O A LA TA I U L. MASCHERONI O ES BORGO V V I M SSIS Z VIA C

A F. B VI N AR . SANTA CATERINA T E VIA B. ACCA

Carabinieri E Parco delle G R L A

R

L CO IA E S Rimembranze

E L IS O V

A . L

D EO S L Parco We can recommend two itineraries, diverse yet S R O N S P.LE E I A M N IN G AL VIA RIVO R L TA SANT’AGOSTINO S. Agostino E I A T N O SA CA I V I A O S BORGO CANALE I LA NTA V AT A A V T L

A CH A S I IN C ROCCA IP . LI E V O LO O D G V A R G O L T

united. They offer two views of Bergamo, that T R R SA OR BO A B A E A P I CRAZIO A IA T

NO VIA VI PORTA PIAZZALE V V DELL A N PIAZZA E NT PIAZZA VECCHIA P.ZZA MERCATO A L FO A SANT’AGOSTINO C OBERDAN T P A V O ELLA NO A CARRARA A IA DEL FIENO VIA D I VI N S

C O O A A A RE S P.LE S VIA DEGLI A V PIAZZA VI

L O reveal the lively spirit of a city of culture and bu- NA V A I

I BRIGATA LEGNANO A B IA S. V V R

DUOMO SC VIA A V OS I O A A RL IA GOMB LA ROCC A N i AL A NI SA VIA D

ZZI O M C I A A. NO L . VI . V V UP A ALE DE AT A I L ITO NO B PI OL A . O A T VICOLO DEL M A A R V T I siness, of contemplation and action, of sky and IA TT S E A BORGO SAN . L A. I PIAZZA EN V C RI L V A OR PARADISO VI VIA PORTA DIPINTA E I L T MERCATO V A TOMASO S E I VA M L PIAZZ TI IA I A L. ANGELINI V OLI T U DELLE SCARPE GNI T O DEL IA T RA NO VIA MAGLI R N A I R A GL V VIA G. DONIZ M I D ET E C E I PIAZZA TI B E LLASANTA P L ATB 3 O IG L

L D A earth, the Upper and Lower Cities. E ROSATE Polizia locale O I V O O N D S V I MO V A A I O RE IA II F OL C O SO L R C .C E OM O O I A OM A L T N DI C R E V V TT IA U N O A I G MU AN A N A E VIALE VITTORIO EM A VI R N V E P S I E IA S. T N DELL E PIAZZALE The blue itinerary begins with the city on the A L O A A E PA S A IA BORGO O S B R VIAL V L M IA R E. TIRABOSCHI I T V V A O PIGNOLO ED E I AY I D V E A V IAC C R I I SC O D R ATB V O C A SS HI T O DU N A R A O I I R NA SUA C UT E LINEA 1 . VIA V PIAZZETTA Parco N AR S TE O hill, where we can savour the ambience of the AT Piscina V M EL Suardi R L I I DEL DELFINO V I ST Comunale A L I FO A PORTA Stazione O AL N O LI . E IA R S. GIACOMO funicolare M G LL IVA UR A E ARO O I O E A V RI D AT VILL N A historic district and its monuments, bathed in O INE TA V LG A R TA IA A I AT D P G V A IG L IA GR SA C N DE V IA AN O NI LARGO IA N V I SCALET LO AN V T IA SS V V DEL GALGARIO A CCH E IA IO V IA VE ITA D GARA N G the gleaming light of the buildings of Piazza Vec- IA UC V ’AL S A L AL TI FR A I T S VI R V A S VI NT A I E N IA CO AN A AN A O A N V L S V VIA LE O IA H S A. E O T S

K V .C ICOLO SAN CA T A A N A IA LOCA N A G

. V O L AS E IOVA T

NN B L T ANDE M I V V INI M IS

IA IA IA A VI TE A RE chia. It then continues in search of the unique A V IV

E I V EZ V B

R V Parco M I R

N IA OS L I ET arenzi I

O I IO A Z G O Z M R LI

B I LI Z ION CHIESA N P TA T SE

N O Z I V A V

A A R LARGO I L A I IA

UZ N A M M A VI O AD I

T GN N VI I M BIAN IZZON M I A A V G. BAROZZI M A I Z T GALLERIA A AT E S . RL BORGO V ZI views of the plains and the Alps, with the extra- O LE LLO VIA C VI G R CHI O CONCA D’ORO IS A N IA I V I SANT’ANTONIO DE IT D O T UP Parco PIAZZETTA LLO D UC ORIO EM L O L FILZ M V ODORO FR ST IA A IA TA I Caprotti S. SPIRITO IA V V N P TE AT NT IGA I IGN ordinary vistas offered by the Civic Tower (Cam- A V R O A EX OSPEDALE UT IA B DI LO O S T A ER VI IA O V N VIA V V R IA RI U V IN SM E IA B O ON L OR DO SCALETTA DI E SEPPE GO PALAZZO U O I II I I panone), the Fortress and the Gombito Tower. S. ALESSANDRO G P P.LE DELLA A CC O I E I SC V L R A REPUBBLICA A A B TT EL I VI C V O Z A IA N A N AL BO IA B V O D NE V A C. IGIA . O L A. T R The red itinerary amazes for its historic routes I IA I N A G G GR D PIAZZA AR O G Clinica E M DO A C A A I L LE IA VI C I P ON I P I L A A V DELLA LIBERTÀ E IN A V M S. Francesco O I A AR D T L ST V R R C A E A A C Z 24 A S TR DA U ZO N AN E VI IA TU I BENEDETTO P P P.ZA V T E R A T P through the Pignolo or Sant’Alessandro borou- O G R I R A O V VI V E PA G C A P T V LA VI . A SANT’ANNA A A I N I E I M N A SER L A A A I I V L RG SO S I TI V E MO INO S AN A BORGO VI D C T S V M S N N A H O O A Provincia I I I E L U O T A E LVET ICO N B . A IA D PALAZZO IA V C A B T V I V T S E di Bergamo D D R C IA IAL E A LOTT V VI O O E T ghs and the avenue with its ramparts passing H I V Clinica P V e Prefettura A NA N E I E AS ZZI N NE O O A A N VIA Istituto R DO A L O G. MAZZIN Castelli R U I M V . L I I CA OM BI A S E S D S C IA T D I Matteo Rota A O N V V V N E O I ZO XI IA G. MA T A C I I N ZZINI L A D E A IA IE AS PP I OC VIA G N . GARIB S V R A through the Gate of Sant’Agostino, descending IN ALDI E B AN M I A A VI S N A V MA V L A V E O G I I ROTONDA PIAZZA CAVOUR A IN I R A O L IA L V TI A TIER C O D A ’ DEI MILLE GALLERIA N LA GE I R I O T V VI N I I N R A O N N A SI S. MARTA V A D E L C O A A RI IA SE I IA V A I O L S M to the centre of Lower Bergamo, in the heart of C S N V O PI C BR UL A O A VIA D T E N EG A AR FFEI E O P N P LI AB V O L RUZ FA J A ZI VI IA B O VIA A EM F. U . DIAZ N L BORF A R V I L A Comune M L B I A I A O I V I UR di Bergamo V A R VI EL N V PIAZZA IA A O DEL VIA A. IA DIAZ GALL LI the shopping district. A SÈ O N G. MATTEOTTI O IC GAMO I GI I C L G AR IO A VIA 4 NO G LL CO Parco N I S

IA MO E V V M O V BER L A I PA I 4 C A A

I N I

Diaz . I Polizia Locale 2 M O V

A E L V A N VIA I A These tours are perfect for exploring the city’s D O SA I . TI N A V Parco T V T BR ’O RSO L . F VI LA A I RE A A D ’ ANT O TO A I E D M F.lli Locatelli E A V I VI N E P O M V I R HI A SC VIA BROSETA D LARGO B C P CE AN O O I A N UN EM BOS A N I T R T G R Z E N.REZZARA B A F V I T . T IR I . I O two faces, through continuously evolving per- I D SS SE T O S A OS O A IA V N L N X A F IL P X V A VI I O I R A VI A G. O RI IA A NN AF R V

A L V I A M O I LLON I A V R G R NZ O VIA SANT’A E L B D F A PIAZZA PONTIDA H I L A TOTI VE X L E O V

T IS A G A ID A . L XI G G N VI R

CI A V A A E I A I O I

I VIA A. GRAMSCI SETA T V I A O A VIA BRO A N I A V O I A N I V

spectives, linked by the romantic and delightful V A Z O I BORGO O O N V B L V M G N ON Polizia locale ZA IO I A U A B SAN LEONARDO LARGO VIA RG Z S VI

VIA F. COGHETTI NZÙ I L PIAZZALE S VI VIA MA O O A A CINQUE VIE V E ’ N N A

A I G D DEGLI ALPINI A G A T

VIA F. COGHETTI U .

B E I Q D G

funicular railways, useful yet unusual, rising to I Stazione RI . L U EN O olinee

t

A Z A A P A

I V A Au E C R ON L E A GL VI EB

N O N P

L T

D GI N VI IA Centro Congressi e DR A S A L G n A A G i V B S Giovanni XXIII O HI A G VIA M. A I C

DA C R . O Stazio am) I I A r

G V N T i (T V C T Urban Center enter the very belly of the Walls until it reaches . E I I I I

I A V O

C D N

O LORETO J O PA

A A . R VIA DEL A I ATB P AR ZURR C V VI O AL Z O NASTRO O Z M L E LINEA 1 V RI A . AZ L Carabinieri IA D U M L A ELL C G ZO P the ancient heart of Bergamo. ’ERA S A A N I PIAZZALE VI IA O IL A AZ L LO V R L S BERNARDINO L T G. MARCONI O V A E A EC A I I I N P P VE VIA W. VON GOET P Z V HE N A . N E C L IA I D S NO ria A U H V V LL A I IA Clinica N A VIA W. VON GOETHE S G O D I E E IA E V M errovia L V I C VIA Palazzolo DO O A AR N RO V A O Z IA I B Stazione F Z ZZ G. V IA IA AI GRE V P PPI

Piazza Vecchia Piazza Vittorio Veneto The Venetian walls

2 3 THE HISTORY OF BERGAMO FROM ONE CENTURY TO THE NEXT

FROM THE IRON AGE TO THE “LORDS”OF MILAN

The city was conquered by The city Following the episcopal rule, Berga- King John of Bohemia was called the Lombards. came under mo became a free commune ruled to Bergamo to put an end to strife First settlement on Certain places, such as Fara, the rule over by the Consuls. During this between the Guelphs and the the Bergamo hill with owe the origin of their of the period, the Basilica of Santa Maria Ghibellines. The rule of the Viscontis, a village of Celts. names to them. Franks. Maggiore and Palazzo della Ragione the Lords of Milan, began over X-IX century B.C. 568/569 774 were constructed. the city and territory. 1098 1331

400 a.C. 200 a.C. anno 0 200 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400 197 B.C. 904 1167 With the advent of Roman colonisation, King Berengar relinquished Bergamo joined the Lombard League the hilltop settlement began to take on the jurisdiction over the city to bishop against Emperor Frederick I. The league, characteristics of a Roman city, recognised Adalbert. The bishop renovated uniting 16 communes, was sanctioned later by Rome as a Municipium in 49 B.C. the walls and city defences. by an oath taken at Pontida Abbey.

FROM THE VENETIAN REPUBLIC TO THE PRESENT

After being under the Construction began on the mighty After the invasion of Lower Bergamo was In the fair area, the new town centre was built in Lower rule of the Viscontis, defensive walls ringing the hilltop city, Napoleon’s troops and linked to Upper Bergamo in the 1920s upon the design of architect Bergamo surrendered continuing until 1588, followed by the the defeat of Venice, the Bergamo by the Marcello Piacentini. to the lion of Saint Mark reconstruction of the castle on San Bergamo Republic was funicular railway, Bergamo native Angelo Roncalli was elected pope in for three and a half Vigilio hill. For all intents and purposes, created, becoming part one of the first ever 1958, with the name of John XXIII, and went down in the centuries. Bergamo became a fortress city. of the Kingdom of . constructed in Italy. Catholic Church’s history for the second Vatican Council. 1428 1561 1797 1887 20th century

1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 1430 1734 1814 1859 The first ring of walls Construction began on The Congress of On the morning of June 8th, Giuseppe Garibaldi entered known as the “Muraine” the new Sant’Alessandro Vienna sanctioned the city at the head of the Hunters of the Alps. was built, surrounding fair on the plain below, the passage of The citizens of Bergamo made an important contribution a good portion of the comprising Bergamo under to the struggle to unify Italy (Risorgimento): 180 of them town’s boroughs. 350 shops. Austrian rule. participated in the Mille expedition (1860).

4 5 UPPER BERGAMO HISTORICAL CENTRE

UPPER BERGAMO Sant’Agostino, situated on the road to Venice; the THE FORMER CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO central area took on the forms and dimensions The majority of the city’s monumental and arti- gate of San Giacomo on the way to Milan; the gate Accessed from Piazza Mercato del Fieno, the mo- of the Renaissance, in particular when the buil- stic heritage in enclosed within the limited area of Sant’Alessandro on the road for Lecco and Como; nastery of San Francesco was the medieval city’s ding on the western side was transformed into of Upper Bergamo. The ring of walls built by Ve- the gate of San Lorenzo leading to the valleys. largest and most important religious complex. the seat of the Venetian magistrate. The façade nice in the 1500s marks the boundary of this area The walls never came under assault but from one Established in the 12th century and completed was magnificently decorated by one of the era’s abounding in history and vestiges of the past. bastion to another, the cannons could have impe- in 1500s, it features two large cloisters. The first, most renowned artists, Bramante, who frescoed it This concentration indeed aids sightseeing, offe- ded an enemy approach. The cannon batteries known as the Sarcophagus cloister due to the 19 in 1477. The piazza assumed its definitive appea- ring the possibility of strolling through medieval in San Michele and San Giovanni can be visited tombs built in the 1200s, was destined as a tomb rance when the new Town Hall was constructed streets and alleyways shaded by towers and bell from spring through autumn. for the city’s families. The well cloister, the second, on the eastern side. Faced with white marble, to- towers while discovering the city’s most evocati- Info: ph. +39 035 242226 offers a lovely view on the Bergamo Alps. Elimina- day the building is the home of the Angelo Mai ve spots. The funicular railway travels from Lower www.comune.bergamo.it ted at the onset of the 19th century, and turned Municipal Library, with its priceless collection of Bergamo to inside the Upper City walls, facili- into a barracks and then a prison, the complex scrolls, illuminated codices, incunabula and archi- tating access for the visitor. The other funicular THE FORTRESS became severely damaged; the only part of the ves which recount the city’s history. railway, on the opposite side only metres from The capitol was set up on the rise of Santa Eufemia, church remaining was the apse with its frescoes. the gate of Sant’Alessandro, ascends San Vigilio according to several hypotheses on the layout The former monastery is currently the site of the PALAZZO DELLA RAGIONE hill with its magnificent views. of Bergamo in Roman times. When the city was city’s Historical Museum. Considered one of the oldest Lombard communal handed over to the seigniory, thus ending the free Info: ph. +39 035 247116. buildings (12th century), the palace consists of a THE WALLS AND THE GATES Commune, King John of Bohemia had a fortress www.bergamoestoria.it single imposing “hall of trusses”, resting on a base Almost one-third of the dwellings of an entire quar- built. After the walls were constructed, the fortress of porticoes, accessed by a great staircase flanking ter and an important monastery were razed to the was transformed into an arsenal, housed a barracks PIAZZA VECCHIA the Campanone (Civic Tower). It was originally ground so that the great construction site of the and then a prison. In 1960, it became the site of the The architecture of Piazza Vecchia fools the eye used as a council room, then as premises of the mighty defensive walls could get under way in 1561 Risorgimento Museum. Today, despite being outfit- into believing it is larger than it actually is. As the court of justice, a theatre and then library. The co- and be completed in 1588. Four gates were inser- ted differently and in the larger context of the city’s core of Bergamo’s political and administrative life lonnade beneath the old town hall acts almost as ted into the wall, almost six kilometres long, each Historical Museum, it houses the 1800s section. and all of the Bergamo region, this space began to a filter between Piazza Vecchia, where civil power of which corresponded to the main thoroughfares Info: ph. +39 035 247116. acquire its current appearance in the 1400s. It was was concentrated, and the square of the Duomo leading to the territory and other cities. The gate of www.bergamoestoria.it at the beginning of the Venetian rule that this (cathedral), symbol of episcopal power.

The Walls and Gate St. Giacomo

6 7 UPPER BERGAMO HISTORICAL CENTRE

COLLEONI CHAPEL Jewish culture, and Christianity without failing Renowned mercenary warlord Bartolomeo Col- to adore the personage, visible in the portrayal leoni had an apse of the basilica demolished to of the feats of Hercules (considered progenitor build his own tomb. Having chosen one of the of Colleoni), represented in four panels bene- most prestigious places in the city, he commis- ath the façade’s pillars. sioned (1470-1472) one of the best known artists Info: ph. +39 035 210061. of that days: Giovanni Antonio Amadeo. Its extra- ordinary façade, decorated with polychromatic THE BASILICA OF SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE marble and bas-relief details, seems to compete Amongst the city’s many historical and arti- with the lavish décor of the basilica’s porch. stic assets, the basilica is its greatest monu- The sumptuous decorations are dense with ment, and was once held in such considera- meaning, references to ancient Roman culture, tion as to be deemed the “Chapel of the city”.

1. Colleoni Chapel; inside, eighteenth-century frescoes by Tiepolo 2. Northern portal with the column-bearing lions 3. Florentine and Flemish tapestries, the tombs of and S. Mayr 4. The marquetry panels and wooden cross 5. The portal by Giovanni da Campione 6. Central apse 7. Baroque decoration

Civic Tower Baptistery, Colleoni Chapel and Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore

CIVIC TOWER (CAMPANONE) home to the Magistrate of Bergamo and the A symbol of the medieval city, the town tower location for various communal functions from is 52 metres high. Its two panoramic floors, the beginning of the 12th to first half of the which can be reached by a convenient lift, of- 15th centuries. The Municipality carried out fer not only fantastic views over the rooftops restoration work on the palace, revealing ex- 7 of the historic district and the Alps, but are tremely important findings regarding the city’s the perfect places to view Piazza Vecchia. Only history. Remains and structures from the Ro- from above can one perceive the balanced man era were discovered beneath the palace. 3 1 dimensions of this space, of which the lovely In 2012, the Historical Museum of the Vene- 6 fountain, donated to the city in 1780 by the Ve- tian Age - The Interactive 1500s was opened. netian magistrate Alvise Contarini, is its focal Info: ph. +39 035 247116. point. The tower is also referred to as the Cam- www.bergamoestoria.it 4 panone for the large bell which, in addition to calling town council meetings, rings more than BAPTISTERY 100 times every evening at 10 p.m., the old The Baptistery has been in its current location night curfew, or rather, the traditional closing since 1898, complementing the intimate am- of the city gates in the evening. bience of the Duomo square. The building has 5 Info: ph. +39 035 247116. ancient origins and was constructed by Gio- www.bergamoestoria.it vanni da Campione in 1340 inside the Basilica 2 of Santa Maria Maggiore. The Virtues are repre- PALACE OF THE MAGISTRATE AND HISTORI- sented in the fourteenth century statues found CAL MUSEUM OF THE VENETIAN AGE – THE in narrow niches on the sides of the octagonal INTERACTIVE 1500s structure in the upper band of red Verona mar- Originally the residence of the Suardi-Colle- ble pierced by columns. Only open for baptisms. oni families, the Palace of the Magistrate was Info: ph. +39 035 210223.

8 9 UPPER BERGAMO HISTORICAL BERGAMO

Duomo - interiors Baptistery detail Teatro Sociale (Society Theatre) Botanic Garden

When the decision was made to build it, also in DUOMO AND MUSEUM AND THE TREASURE TEATRO SOCIALE (SOCIETY THEATRE) Science and the Civic Museum of Archaeology. fulfilment of a vow against the plague, Bergamo OF THE CATHEDRAL Two centuries from the 1808 inauguration, in the The former is known for its collection of ancient natives chose an easily accessed location whe- Important discoveries made under the cathedral spring of 2009, the Society Theatre was reopened fossils, including a deer discovered in 2001 in Bor- re the small church of Santa Maria rose. Con- revealed the presence of two large churches that to the public with an extensive programme of lezza Valley, dating back 700,000 years and one of struction began in 1137. Used for baptisms, the preceded it, and which traced the current church’s shows and participations by important artists. This the oldest flying reptiles ever found, 220 million church also served as a hall for civic assemblies. outline: the Palaeo-Christian cathedral and the was made possible by an exemplary restoration on years old, discovered in a quarry in Seriana Val- Toward the middle of the 1300s, Giovanni da Romanesque cathedral dedicated to San Vicenzo. this authentic jewel. The theatre was designed by ley. The Archaeological Museum is home to finds Campione was commissioned to build the mo- Both buildings were no doubt majestic and lavi- architect Leopoldo Pollack, a student of Piermari- from Bergamo and its territory ranging from the numental northern entrance with a porch sup- shly decorated as witnessed by the remains of the ni, who rose to enormous fame after building the prehistoric to medieval ages. The frescoes from a ported by red marble lions, complete with a th- mosaic flooring dating back to the 6th century and Royal Villa in Monza and the Arch of Peace in Milan. Roman domus discovered in Upper Bergamo are ree-legged loggia and statue of Saint Alexander 13th century frescoes, which can now be toured Info: www.teatrodonizetti.it particularly interesting. The “Lorenzo Rota” Bo- on horseback. At the end of the century, a cove- in the Cathedral’s Museum and Treasure. In the tanic Garden is located not far from the Citadel, red and cusped tabernacle was finally added. The second half of the 1400s, the decision to build the THE CITADEL AND CIVIC MUSEUMS beside the Venetian powder magazine, offering southern porch is instead supported by white current Duomo was made and renowned architect This is what remains of the fortification the Vi- lovely views on the Upper City where autochtho- marble lions. The majestic Romanesque interior, Filarete contributed to the initial phase. Completed scontis had built when they imposed their sei- nous, exotic, Mediterranean, aquatic and carnivo- which was supposed to be entirely frescoed, was at the end of the 1600s, the church was dedicated gniory on Bergamo. The Citadel then became rous species can be observed. later transformed by lavish Baroque decorations. to Saint Alexander. The cathedral, which holds wor- home to the Venetian captain and its large open The “Enrico Caffi” Civic Museum of Natural Science Over the centuries, the Mia Consortium embelli- ks by Gian Battista Tiepolo, Giovan Battista Moroni, spaces continued to be used for storing grains Info: ph. +39 035 286011. shed the basilica with works of art. Standing out Sebastiano Ricci and Andrea Previtali, was comple- and as a depository. With the arrival of the French www.museoscienzebergamo.it amongst these is the choir with its astounding ted only in the 19th century with the realisation of and the Austrians, military use of the structure Civic Museum of Archaeology wood inlay panels carried out between 1522 and the cupola, whereas the façade dates back to 1866. continued but the building fell in continual de- Info: ph. +39 035 242839. 1555, based on the drawings of , Info Duomo: ph. +39 035 210223. cline. This period was ended by restoration work www.museoarcheologicobergamo.it and the Baroque confessional by Andrea Fantoni. www.cattedraledibergamo.it done between 1958 and 1960 which restored the “Lorenzo Rota” Botanical Garden Info: ph. +39 035 223327. Museum Info: ph. +39 035 248772 building’s original appearance. It is now the site Info: ph. +39 035 286060. www.fondazionemia.it www.fondazionebernareggi.it of the “Enrico Caffi” Civic Museum of Natural www.ortobotanicodibergamo.it

10 11 FROM UPPER BERGAMO TO LOWER BERGAMO

offering magnificent views of the Walls and the extended down the hill to the countryside. This Garibaldi Gate. first urban expansion, in the form of the historic Info: ph. +39 035 4530400. boroughs, involved the eastern and western ro- www.parcocollibergamo.it utes on which the city stretched. Boroughs that developed westward included Canale, Sant’A- THE STAIRWAYS lessandro and San Leonardo, while Sant’An- There are dozens of stairways and lanes climbing tonio, Palazzo, Pignolo, San Tomaso and Santa the sides of Bergamo hill and which lead to a world Caterina reached toward the east. that is right above the city yet remote all the same. The stairways include “Paradiso”, “Santa Lucia PORTA NUOVA Vecchia”, “More”, “Ortolano”, “Fontanabrolo”, “San The heart itself of modern Bergamo, Porta Nuo- Martino”, “Scorlazzino” and “Scorlazzone”. They are va’s expanse is a true gate as it was built when the vestiges of a dense network of medieval lin- a wide opening in the medieval “Muraine” walls ks between the plain and the hill, or paths to the was necessary. This took place with the inaugu- once numerous fields and gardens. Flanked by dry ration of the “Strada Ferdinandea” (now Viale stone walls or hedges, they offer unique views of Vittorio Emanuele). Two Neoclassic buildings or the upper and lower cities. The stairways and la- propylaea, were built for the occasion, located nes are perfect for visitors in search of tranquillity on either side to house the tollhouses. and greenery or romantic walks. DONIZETTI THEATRE LOWER BERGAMO Named after the great composer in 1897 for the commemoration of the 100th anniversary of THE BOROUGHS his birth, the renowned Donizetti Theatre rises San Vigilio Castle Bergamo Hills Starting with the 14th century, Bergamo’s histo- on an area where performances were held on a ric core stretched along its road system, which temporary wooden stage that was continuously

THE DONIZETTI ITINERARY existed. The castle underwent various demo- It is interesting to retrace the life of Gaetano litions over a period of time; it was purchased Donizetti who was born and lived in Bergamo by the Municipality in 1958 and is currently a from 1797-1848. The house where he was born public garden offering a sweeping view toward can be visited in Borgo Canale, offering a cross- the plain and Bergamo Alps. section of the daily life of the composer and his family, while his tomb is located in Santa Maria THE HILLS AND THE PARK Maggiore. The Donizetti Museum is a tribute Bergamo rises on the last projection of a hill sy- the city wished to make to the Maestro and a stem extending about six kilometres long from visit is an opportunity to have an up-close look east to west. at the documents, mementos, portraits and the Buildings of enormous importance, such as piano of the great musician who composed the former Astino and Valmarina monasteries, more than 70 operas, including “Elisir d’Amore” now head office of the Park of the Hills of Ber- (1832) and “Lucia di Lammermoor” (1835). gamo, mingle with old farmhouses converted Info: ph. +39 035 244483. into delightful residences with parks and vege- www.donizetti.org table gardens. A network of over 100 km of trails cover the SAN VIGILIO CASTLE Park’s terrain, divided into 32 routes marked A funicular railway leads from the Upper City with signs. The various levels of difficulty of the- to the top of San Vigilio hill, where one can di- se paths will meet the needs of the most expert scover the extraordinary surroundings of the hikers as well as tourists and families. Bergamo hills. In the 12th century, a castle was The Park also features cycling and walking built on San Vigilio hill, which overlooks the city paths, such as the Greenway which stretches for and where a tower from the Roman period once about ten kilometres along the stream, Donizetti Theatre

12 13 LOWER BERGAMO CITY CENTRE

assembled and disassembled during the old square of the same name, two magnificent al- Sant’Alessandro fair. The façade was built to ar- tarpieces painted in this period can be admired. chitect Pietro Via’s design and was inaugurated in They consist of two large paintings of the same 1897 beside a romantic monument to Donizetti, subject: Madonna and Child with Saints (the one surrounded by a pond and small garden. in San Bartolomeo is known as the Martinengo Info: ph. +39 035 4160611. altarpiece); another beautiful altarpiece also de- www.teatrodonizetti.it picting the Madonna with Child and Saints can be admired in the small San Bernardino church THE PIACENTINI CENTRE in Via Pignolo. The “Trinity” painting belonging The space around the Sentierone, as well as to the church of Sant’Alessandro della Croce Matteotti, Vittorio Veneto and Dante Squares, can also be found in Via Pignolo at no. 76 in the comprises the city centre built to the single de- Bernareggi Diocesan Museum. There is a cycle sign of Marcello Piacentini starting in 1914. Bu- of frescoes by Lorenzo Lotto in the chapel of ilt in the area of the Sant’Alessandro fair, one of the Madonna in the San Michele al Pozzo Bianco Italy’s oldest, the Piacentini Centre encompas- church, along with the drawings for the wood in- sed the view of the upper city that can be seen lay work in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore from the propylaea in Porta Nuova. in Upper Bergamo. Seven works by the artist de- fined as the “restless genius of the Renaissance” LORENZO LOTTO IN BERGAMO can be found in the permanent collection of the Many of the great Venetian artist’s works (1480- . 1556) can be found in Bergamo, where he pas- sed twelve years of intense activity. In Lower Ber- ADRIANO BERNAREGGI DIOCESAN MUSEUM gamo, in the church of San Bartolomeo, on the The museum is named after Mons. Adriano Sentierone, and in Santo Spirito church in the Bernareggi, Bishop of Bergamo who, starting L. Lotto’s alterpiece – S. Bernardino Church GAMeC – Entrance

in the 1930s, began collecting works of art, porary artists such as Alviani, Basilico, Garutti images of worship and objects for liturgical and Cattelan. use. The museum is arranged in an itinerary Info: ph. +39 035 270272. with chapters and themes, offering the pos- www.gamec.it sibility of discovering these extraordinary testimonies that are intimately linked to the ACCADEMIA CARRARA history of Bergamo and its Church. An extraordinary love of culture and art were Info: ph. +39 035 248772. the driving force behind the origins of the Ac- www.fondazionebernareggi.it cademia Carrara on the part of Count Giaco- mo Carrara who established and financed the GAMeC (MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY institution. With almost 2000 paintings, the ART GALLERY) collections of sculptures and extensive archives The Modern and Contemporary Art Gallery of drawings and prints, the Accademia Carrara (GAMeC) is a space for contemporary art in all is one of Italy’s most important picture galleri- of its forms with temporary exhibitions sup- es. Some of its most renowned artists include ported by educational initiatives and cultural Titian, Raphael, Tiepolo, Mantegna, Bellini, Bot- activities. The Manzù Collection is the heart of ticelli, Lotto, Canaletto and Guardi and many the museum, composed of sculptures, pain- works bearing witness to the centuries-long tings, drawings and etchings by the great Ber- relationship with Venice. The Accademia is clo- gamo artist. The Spajani Collection includes sed for restoration until 2014, but a selection around forty works by the 20th century master, of works are on exhibition at the Palazzo della whereas the Stucchi Collection covers Italian Ragione in Upper Bergamo. and European artists from the 1950s. The col- Info: ph. +39 035 399677. lections are completed by works by contem- www.accademiacarrara.bergamo.it Porta Nuova

14 15 USEFUL INFO

TOURIST SERVICES “Città di Bergamo” Tourist guides group INFORMATION OFFICE (I.A.T.) Ph. +39 035 344205 Lower Bergamo www.bergamoguide.it V.le Papa Giovanni XXIII, 57 – Urban Center AGIAT tourist guides Ph. +39 035 210204 Ph. +39 035 262565 [email protected] www.agiatguidebergamo.it www.comune.bergamo.it “Bergamo Su & Giù” tourist guides INFORMATION OFFICE (I.A.T.) Ph. +39 035 234182 Upper Bergamo www.visitbergamo.info Via Gombito, 13 (Gombito Tower) Guides not registered with associations Ph. +39 035 242226 www.turismo.bergamo.it [email protected] www.comune.bergamo.it USEFUL NUMBERS TURISMO BERGAMO INFO OFFICE Bergamo Orio al Airport – arrivals area Papa Giovanni XXIII hospital Ph. +39 035 320402 Piazza OMS [email protected] - Organizzazione Mondiale della Sanità, 1 www.turismo.bergamo.it Ph: +39 035.267111 Left Luggage Airport / Autostradale www.hpg23.it at Arrivals Area San Vigilio Funicolar Fontanabrolo stairway Tel. +39 035 318472. www.orioaeroporto.it Doctor on call – Bergamo Left Luggage Bergamo / Eco Rent Via Croce Rossa, 2 - Ph. +39 035 4555111 HOW TO REACH BERGAMO we suggest parking in areas close to the ex- at Urban Center By air: the convenient and well-connected inter- hospital and reaching the Upper City by way of Tel. +39 035 5293888 www.depositobagagli.it SOS: Universal emergency number 112 national airport “Il Caravaggio” Bergamo/Orio al the panoramic stairways. Serio is located 5 km from the centre of Bergamo. Local police Via Coghetti 10 - Ph. +39 035 399.559 By car: take the Bergamo exit on the A4 Milan- BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT – The ATB runs the ur- Venice motorway. ban bus lines and funicular railway connecting By train: Bergamo is directly connected with the Lower and Upper City and the Upper City Milan, Lecco and Brescia (with connections for and San Vigilio. Bus lines no. 1 and 1A go to the , Verona and Venice). Upper City and the funicular railway can also By bus: from Milan Lampugnano, Cadorna and be used. Passing through a tunnel cut through Piazza Castello to the Bergamo bus station. the Venetian walls, the visitor arrives in Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe in just minutes. Those who wish to go up to San Vigilio hill may take GETTING AROUND the panoramic funicular railway leaving from FROM THE AIRPORT – The Airport Bus connec- Sant’Alessandro Gate (just outside of Colle tion to and from the airport runs daily with de- Aperto). partures every 20 minutes; the trip takes about ATB Point – Largo Porta Nuova - Ph. +39 035 20 minutes. 236026 www.atb.bergamo.it Turismo Bergamo info office – Airport Arrivals BERGAMO BY BIKE Bergamo and its province area – Ph. +39 035 320402 offer itineraries of exceptional beauty. BY CAR - The shopping district (Largo Belotti, Eco Rent: scooter, microcar and electric car Via XX Settembre, Largo Rezzara, Via Sant’Ales- hire. Piazzale Marconi, 4 (c/o Urban Center). Ph. sandro) is a limited traffic zone while almost all +39 035 5293888 – www.eco-rent.it of Upper Bergamo is off limits to traffic. Sun- Ciclostazione 42 (bike station 42) (piazzale Greenway Piazza Vecchia days/public holidays, the Upper City is closed Marconi - Bergamo station) – Ciclostazione dei colli (Colli bike station) (via Valbona, to traffic between 10 am and noon and from 2 CREDITS pm to 7 pm. With Daylight Saving Time, it is also , Bg) – Bike hire “Prenditempo” Texts: Comune di Bergamo, Pino Capellini, Turismo Bergamo. Translations: Geakoinè closed to traffic Friday and Saturday between 9 Ph. +39 340 0982887 www.pedalopolis.org Pictures: Antonella Macis, Archivio Comune di Bergamo, Archivio Turismo Bergamo, Dimitri Salvi, Elina Ilgaza, pm and 1 am. In order to enjoy the city better, TAXI – Radio Taxi: Tel. +39 035 4519090. GAMeC – Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Bergamo, Gianfranco Rota, Lapi, Marco Mazzoleni, Paolo Ardiani.

16 17 A single Bergamo h Bergamo travel card Card 24 Azienda T rasporti Bergamo for visiting Info and dealersMuseo Bernareggi Card Bergamo. www.bergamocard.it

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