LYON LYON THE GRANDE DAME OF FRENCH CUISINE, LYON HAS A CULINARY REPUTATION LIKE NO OTHER. BUT THE LAUNCH OF AN AMBITIOUS NEW GASTRONOMIC ATTRACTION IN ONE OF ITS MOST FAMOUS OLD BUILDINGS IS JUST ONE OF SEVERAL EYE-CATCHING WAYS IN WHICH THE CITY IS SPRUCING UP ITS MENU

WORDS: CAROLYN BOYD PHOTOGRAPHS: PUXAN

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Naming the world capital of gastronomy is a challenging task. Do you go by Michelin stars?

If so, Tokyo takes the title. Do you focus on corner of France, while also exploring broader the sheer diversity of international cuisines culinary themes. available? If so New York City or London both Opened in October 2019, the CIG occupies have a strong case. Or, do you instead look to around a quarter of the historic Hôtel-Dieu, the heartland of arguably the world’s most a palatial edifice on the banks of the Rhône celebrated cuisine, in the very country that’s that served as Lyon’s main hospital from the best known for its food? Middle Ages until 2010; even today, one in If we’re talking culinary heritage, then three Lyonnais were born there. As such, it’s Lyon has few rivals. This elegant city, not far one of the city’s most iconic buildings, where from the Alps, sits on the confluence of the peaceful courtyards and cloisters bear plaques Above: streets Rhône and Saône rivers, at the heart of one of with the names of four centuries’ worth of of Lyon; Bresse France’s most bounteous regions. In 1935, the financial donors. Inside, however, following chicken cooked food critic and writer Curnonsky, the so-called a €20 million (£16.6 million) renovation, it’s in a bladder ‘Prince of Gastronomes’, declared it the world’s now also home to new bars, restaurants and a ‘à la Mère Fillioux’ capital of gastronomy. Fast-forward to the 21st smart InterContinental hotel. at L’Auberge du century, and today’s Lyon is reputed to have The Lyon CIG is the first of four planned Pont de Collonges 4,000 restaurants, of which 19 are Michelin- across France, the others due to open in Dijon, starred; there are countless patisseries, Paris and Tours over the next five years. Right: the view across the Saône boulangeries, charcuteries, fromageries and a I’m shown around by its director Florent river to the city’s food hall — Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse Bonnetain, who works for MagmaCultura, the old quarter — in which you could gorge yourself for days. company also behind Bordeaux’s jaw-dropping

But now there’s something else besides Cité du Vin, which opened in 2015. As we Previous page: — the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie step into the central area, Florent gestures ceiling decor at (CIG), a digital wonderland of a visitor centre up at the building’s domed ceiling, from Cité Internationale that celebrates the foodie credentials of this which a circular chandelier of giant spoons de la Gastronomie

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is suspended. “These show the link between grew in notoriety, bringing fame to several medicine and food,” he explains. dynasties of chefs, such as the Troisgros family, Among the centre’s many different Jacques Pic and his daughter Anne-Sophie, and sections, there’s one that tells the story of Régis and Jacques Marcon. the building’s medicinal history through artefacts such as jars of herbal remedies HITTING ALL THE RIGHT NOTES and antique microscopes. This, however, The focal point of the Bocuse section is the is the only section that feels like it belongs grand red stove on which he cooked for 25 in a traditional museum. “We try not to use years — his ‘piano de cuisson’ (cooking piano) the word ‘museum’,” explains Florent. “It as it’s called in French, a big red range with suggests stuffy exhibits gathering dust, when numerous plates. I can’t help but marvel at everything here is so interactive.” how many people it will have fed. And, while This is certainly true of the ‘Miam Miam!’ the great man died in January 2018, aged 91, section, aimed at children. Here, the big, bold, his ethos lives on in his restaurants. So the colourful exhibits cover different aspects of following day, I visit the original, L’Auberge du food and health. For example, little visitors Pont de Collonges, for lunch — and over the Above: Daniel Abdallah groom/doorman can step into a giant cooking pot for a game course of three and a half hours, the kitchen’s at Paul Bocuse’s L’Auberge du Pont de about smell, or disappear into a huge mirrored cooking pianos produce quite a tune. Collonges box that celebrates the joy of vegetables. In the red-and-green painted villa, adorned Meanwhile, in the section titled ‘À Table!’, with murals of Bocuse, I take my seat among Opposite page, clockwise from I take a seat and am joined by characters from couples and groups of friends. While it seems top left: Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie; ‘Miam Miam!’ section at some of France’s most famous dining scenes remiss to be alone at this, the most prestigious Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie; — as featured in films such as La Grande of French tables, I soon begin to appreciate chef Olivier Couvin, L’Auberge du Pont de Bouffe, Marie-Antoinette and Haute Cuisine. the freedom this gives me to absorb every Collonges; Paul Bocuse’s Truffle Soup VGE Each figure is projected onto one of several exquisite detail, from the serene dining room upright screens, positioned as though they adorned with artworks to the waltz of the were chairs around the table, and each seems waiters as they breeze between tables. to underline just how important ‘the table’ is to Amid the hushed conversations, the clink of French society — so much so that in 2015, the glasses and chink of heavy cutlery, I savour the ‘gastronomic meal of the French’ was added amuse-bouches, fluffy bread and impeccably to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage chosen wines. Then comes the signature dish, list. Then I learn from virtual stallholders in placed in front of me with a knowing smile a digital market how much amazing produce from my waiter, and I find myself grinning Lyon has on its doorstep, from the Nyons like a goon in anticipation. For this is a dish so olives of Drôme and nougat of Montélimar to important to the story of Bocuse that it’s been Côte du Rhône wines, fish from La Dombes served to guests since before I was born. lakes and potatoes and walnuts from Dauphin. Truffle Soup VGE was created by Bocuse The city’s own culinary history is explored in 1975 for the occasion of being awarded the in an area entitled ‘Bon Appétit’, where I learn Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur, the French about Paul Bocuse — or ‘Monsieur Paul’ as the equivalent of a knighthood, and bears the locals call him — the grandfather of French name of the prime minister who awarded cuisine whose restaurant, just outside Lyon, it: Valéry Giscard d’Estaing (VGE). Beneath has held at least two Michelin stars since 1965. its puff lid I find some of France’s The exhibits do a good job of showing just how most esteemed ingredients: slivers of black influential he was, both for his hearty French truffle, cubes of melt-in-the-mouth foie gras, cuisine and his passionate belief that good, tiny squares of succulent beef and mirepoix local ingredients are the key to great food. vegetables, which I lift from the steaming Video clips and clever displays explain how broth made with Noilly Prat vermouth and an he learned his trade from la mère Brazier, the intense peppery beef stock. It’s too hot to eat, most famous of the Mères Lyonnaises (‘mothers but I burn my lips in my urgency to savour of Lyon’). From the 18th century onwards, these every drop of its richness. The signature dish is generations of domestic cooks put Lyon on the More Bocuse classics follow and I’m full placed in front of me culinary map. Meanwhile, other displays show long before the cheese trolly arrives, but I how the Michelin Guide was born out of the can’t resist it. Nor can I decline the dessert and I grin like a goon French tyre manufacturer’s desire to encourage trolley, laden with such classics as rum baba in anticipation. It’s motorists to travel further to dine — and in and lemon mousse. I opt for the île flottante, been served to guests doing so, wear out more tyres. And I learn how a cloud of egg-white meringue, around which the best restaurants on the famous N7 route, the waiter pours creme anglaise from a silver since before I was born between Paris and Nice via Lyon, consequently ladle. He then smiles as he places a side order

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Left: the kitchen at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges

Cervelle des Canuts of creme brulee on the table. My eyes widen, chefs, Tabata Mey and her husband Ludovic, The name may translate as my body says no, but my taste buds won’t be who run a small, excellent restaurant named ‘silk workers’ brains’, but it is, denied. To finish, a small espresso, not nearly Les Apothicaires in Part-Dieu. The couple met in fact, vegetarian. A classic enough of a ‘digestif’ for this feast. Indeed, working at one of Bocuse’s other restaurants, starter, it’s served throughout I can’t eat another thing for 24 hours. Marguerite, and, having travelled the world the city and chef Matthieu If you’ve overindulged in Lyon, then Vieux observing how different cultures eat food ‘on Charrois serves it as an aperitif Lyon, the city’s old quarter, is the perfect place the go’, they returned to find the French were (champagne recommended) at to walk it off. Here, the narrow, cobbled streets also embracing a more casual style of dining. the Intercontinental Hotel Dieu’s hide a network of secret passageways, towers This gave them an idea. Further inspiration restaurant, Epona. and staircases known as traboules, which have came from the relationship they enjoyed provided shortcuts for the city’s residents as with other restaurateurs in Lyon. “There’s no S E RVE S: 4 far back as the Middle Ages. Those in the Croix- competition between us,” says Tabata. “We’re 10 MINS PLUS 1 HR CHILLING Rousse district are more recent, built in the great friends. We share recipes, have a drink 18th and 19th centuries so that the city’s many and help each other out if there’s a problem. INGREDIENTS silk workers could protect their precious fabrics “We also run the annual Street Food 200g faisselle cheese (fresh from the weather and dirty streets as they Festival together each September, during cow’s milk cheese), drained; moved between looms and merchants. which 25,000 people come and enjoy food alternatively, use ricotta or quark The city’s famous bouchon restaurants, from dozens of different stands. And it made 70g sour cream in many cases established by the Mères us think, ‘Why can’t we do something more 1 tbsp of olive oil Lyonnaises, were a byproduct of the silk permanent together?’” 1 tbsp spoon of vinegar industry, providing quick meals for workers And so began The Food Traboule, which ½ bunch parsley, finely shredded and traders. The best of these can be found utilises the different spaces available in one of ½ bunch chives, finely shredded in the Part-Dieu, Presqu’île and Croix-Rousse Vieux Lyon’s most-loved buildings, the Tour 20g shallots, finely chopped districts, and traditionalists will be pleased Rose, for a collection of mini-restaurants. “The 10g spring onions, finely chopped to hear they still serve the offal-heavy menus Tour Rose has a special place in the Lyonnais’ for which they’re known. hearts — the buildings in Vieux Lyon are METHOD Yet, for all its history, Lyon isn’t immune to UNESCO-listed and Molière performed his Tip the cheese and sour change. A new concept has been introduced first plays in the courtyard there, so it’s really cream into a salad bowl and to the old town, which promises to combine linked to the history of the city,” says Tabata. mix vigorously. the city’s heritage with a more modern Each of the 12 restaurants — plus the Add the oil, vinegar, herbs, dining experience. The Food Traboule is the cocktail bar — are an offshoot of an already shallots, spring onions and a brainchild of two of Lyon’s most dynamic successful Lyon restaurant, serving a simplified pinch of salt and pepper and gently mix all together, then put in the fridge for at least 1 hr. The city’s famous bouchon restaurants were a byproduct of Serve with plenty of good- the silk industry, offering 18th-century workers a quick meal quality bread. — and they still serve their offal-heavy menus today

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ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE Eurostar offers a direct train from London St Pancras to Lyon. Alternatively, Flybe, EasyJet and British Airways serve Lyon from various airports across the UK. eurostar.com flybe.com easyjet. com ba.com

WHERE TO STAY InterContinental is based in the Hôtel- Dieu. Its 144 rooms look out over the Rhône or towards the Basilique Notre-Dame de menu. “The aim is to make it accessible. We Brazilian feijoada stew. Over a drink, I chat Above: dining at Fourvière, while its La Commune have a restaurant that’s not hugely expensive, to Louise Rogelet, a 26-year-old cathedral-like bar is but we know that not everyone can afford it,” whose stand, Zoi, is the first step towards her set in the building’s says Tabata. “At the Traboule, our menu will dream of running a vegan patisserie. central dome. cost around €18 (£15). You can make a good “It’s a really intense programme,” she says. Room-only doubles [two- or three-course] meal with good produce “You get about a year to test out your concept, from around £213. for this price, it just takes creativity.” and La Commune gives you the management, ihg.com Elsewhere in the city, another communal legal and business support you need.” With project is already proving a success. La French patisseries so reliant on cream and HOW TO DO IT Kirker offers Commune opened in March 2018 and is based butter, her vegan version is a challenging a three-night on the ‘food court’ style of dining, like Eataly, concept, but La Commune has given Louise break with flights, which has outposts worldwide, or London’s and her team of three a chance to experiment transfers and Mercato Metropolitano. Where it differs is that and improve her gateaux. “To start with I had accommodation at La Commune aims to give Lyon’s burgeoning four different patisseries a day, but now we the four-star Grand restaurateurs a start in the trade. It’s set in a have 12 or 13. Our customers know that we’re Hôtel des Terreaux, former carpentry workshop not far from the learning, so we ask them for feedback.” from £638. kirker university, and chefs each have their own stand The whole project is still in its infancy, and holidays.co.uk —and with it a chance to test their restaurant’s it’s too soon to say which of La Commune’s Entry to the Cité Internationale de la concept before going it alone in the wider city. budding restaurateurs will make their Gastronomie costs There are 16 different stands in total, plus a bar establishments a success. But what’s clear around £10, or £20 and an area for gigs and exhibitions. from the busy tables is that the ‘gastronomic for a tasting card, When I visit on a Friday night, the place meal of the French’ is in no danger of losing its which includes is buzzing; young people are crammed UNESCO status any time soon. And that Lyon, three tasting plates around the refectory tables eating everything one of the world’s true gastronomic centres, in the top-floor from organic pasta to Ukrainian ravioli and has much more to offer than its heritage. dining rooms.

Lyonnaise specialities

COUSSIN DE LYON SALADE LYONNAISE QUENELLES DE CERVELLE DE CANUT TÊTE DE VEAU This green ‘cushion’ is A salad that’s unusual BROCHET Translated as ‘silk worker’s It pays to learn some Lyon’s calling card. Its in that it works all year This dish combines pike brain’, this is a nod to the French anatomical patented recipe takes round. A base of curly and crayfish bred in city’s history of silk-making terms before eating in a four days to make, but the endive, mesclun or the lakes of La Dombes. and trading; but unlike bouchon restaurant, for green, sugared dandelion leaf is topped Quenelles are a kind of many bouchon favourites, their speciality is offal. layer with a chocolate with chunky, salty dumpling, made with carp it’s vegetarian. Spoon Calf’s head is a staple – ganache centre is worth lardons, crispy croutons paste then either poached fromage blanc mixed with thankfully deboned and it. Try chocolatier Voisin, and a poached egg. Try or steamed and served finely chopped herbs rolled. There’ll be a layer whose main shop is next it at one of the city’s with Nantua sauce, made (chives, parsley, tarragon) of fat, some tongue and to the Musée des Beaux- many traditional from crayfish, white wine, and shallots on to bread brain, served with a sauce Arts. chocolat-voisin.com bouchon restaurants. brandy and creme fraiche. croutons as an aperitif. gribiche. Bon appétit!

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