Lyon Lyon Lyon the Grande Dame of French Cuisine, Lyon Has a Culinary Reputation Like No Other
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LYON LYON LYON THE GRANDE DAME OF FRENCH CUISINE, LYON HAS A CULINARY REPUTATION LIKE NO OTHER. BUT THE LAUNCH OF AN AMBITIOUS NEW GASTRONOMIC ATTRACTION IN ONE OF ITS MOST FAMOUS OLD BUILDINGS IS JUST ONE OF SEVERAL EYE-CATCHING WAYS IN WHICH THE CITY IS SPRUCING UP ITS MENU WORDS: CAROLYN BOYD PHOTOGRAPHS: PUXAN 60 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL 61 LYON LYON Naming the world capital of gastronomy is a challenging task. Do you go by Michelin stars? If so, Tokyo takes the title. Do you focus on corner of France, while also exploring broader the sheer diversity of international cuisines culinary themes. available? If so New York City or London both Opened in October 2019, the CIG occupies have a strong case. Or, do you instead look to around a quarter of the historic Hôtel-Dieu, the heartland of arguably the world’s most a palatial edifice on the banks of the Rhône celebrated cuisine, in the very country that’s that served as Lyon’s main hospital from the best known for its food? Middle Ages until 2010; even today, one in If we’re talking culinary heritage, then three Lyonnais were born there. As such, it’s Lyon has few rivals. This elegant city, not far one of the city’s most iconic buildings, where from the Alps, sits on the confluence of the peaceful courtyards and cloisters bear plaques Above: streets Rhône and Saône rivers, at the heart of one of with the names of four centuries’ worth of of Lyon; Bresse France’s most bounteous regions. In 1935, the financial donors. Inside, however, following chicken cooked food critic and writer Curnonsky, the so-called a €20 million (£16.6 million) renovation, it’s in a bladder ‘Prince of Gastronomes’, declared it the world’s now also home to new bars, restaurants and a ‘à la Mère Fillioux’ capital of gastronomy. Fast-forward to the 21st smart InterContinental hotel. at L’Auberge du century, and today’s Lyon is reputed to have The Lyon CIG is the first of four planned Pont de Collonges 4,000 restaurants, of which 19 are Michelin- across France, the others due to open in Dijon, starred; there are countless patisseries, Paris and Tours over the next five years. Right: the view across the Saône boulangeries, charcuteries, fromageries and a I’m shown around by its director Florent river to the city’s food hall — Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse Bonnetain, who works for MagmaCultura, the old quarter — in which you could gorge yourself for days. company also behind Bordeaux’s jaw-dropping But now there’s something else besides Cité du Vin, which opened in 2015. As we Previous page: — the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie step into the central area, Florent gestures ceiling decor at (CIG), a digital wonderland of a visitor centre up at the building’s domed ceiling, from Cité Internationale that celebrates the foodie credentials of this which a circular chandelier of giant spoons de la Gastronomie 62 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL 63 LYON LYON is suspended. “These show the link between grew in notoriety, bringing fame to several medicine and food,” he explains. dynasties of chefs, such as the Troisgros family, Among the centre’s many different Jacques Pic and his daughter Anne-Sophie, and sections, there’s one that tells the story of Régis and Jacques Marcon. the building’s medicinal history through artefacts such as jars of herbal remedies HITTING ALL THE RIGHT NOTES and antique microscopes. This, however, The focal point of the Bocuse section is the is the only section that feels like it belongs grand red stove on which he cooked for 25 in a traditional museum. “We try not to use years — his ‘piano de cuisson’ (cooking piano) the word ‘museum’,” explains Florent. “It as it’s called in French, a big red range with suggests stuffy exhibits gathering dust, when numerous plates. I can’t help but marvel at everything here is so interactive.” how many people it will have fed. And, while This is certainly true of the ‘Miam Miam!’ the great man died in January 2018, aged 91, section, aimed at children. Here, the big, bold, his ethos lives on in his restaurants. So the colourful exhibits cover different aspects of following day, I visit the original, L’Auberge du food and health. For example, little visitors Pont de Collonges, for lunch — and over the Above: Daniel Abdallah groom/doorman can step into a giant cooking pot for a game course of three and a half hours, the kitchen’s at Paul Bocuse’s L’Auberge du Pont de about smell, or disappear into a huge mirrored cooking pianos produce quite a tune. Collonges box that celebrates the joy of vegetables. In the red-and-green painted villa, adorned Meanwhile, in the section titled ‘À Table!’, with murals of Bocuse, I take my seat among Opposite page, clockwise from I take a seat and am joined by characters from couples and groups of friends. While it seems top left: Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie; ‘Miam Miam!’ section at some of France’s most famous dining scenes remiss to be alone at this, the most prestigious Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie; — as featured in films such as La Grande of French tables, I soon begin to appreciate chef Olivier Couvin, L’Auberge du Pont de Bouffe, Marie-Antoinette and Haute Cuisine. the freedom this gives me to absorb every Collonges; Paul Bocuse’s Truffle Soup VGE Each figure is projected onto one of several exquisite detail, from the serene dining room upright screens, positioned as though they adorned with artworks to the waltz of the were chairs around the table, and each seems waiters as they breeze between tables. to underline just how important ‘the table’ is to Amid the hushed conversations, the clink of French society — so much so that in 2015, the glasses and chink of heavy cutlery, I savour the ‘gastronomic meal of the French’ was added amuse-bouches, fluffy bread and impeccably to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage chosen wines. Then comes the signature dish, list. Then I learn from virtual stallholders in placed in front of me with a knowing smile a digital market how much amazing produce from my waiter, and I find myself grinning Lyon has on its doorstep, from the Nyons like a goon in anticipation. For this is a dish so olives of Drôme and nougat of Montélimar to important to the story of Bocuse that it’s been Côte du Rhône wines, fish from La Dombes served to guests since before I was born. lakes and potatoes and walnuts from Dauphin. Truffle Soup VGE was created by Bocuse The city’s own culinary history is explored in 1975 for the occasion of being awarded the in an area entitled ‘Bon Appétit’, where I learn Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur, the French about Paul Bocuse — or ‘Monsieur Paul’ as the equivalent of a knighthood, and bears the locals call him — the grandfather of French name of the prime minister who awarded cuisine whose restaurant, just outside Lyon, it: Valéry Giscard d’Estaing (VGE). Beneath has held at least two Michelin stars since 1965. its puff pastry lid I find some of France’s The exhibits do a good job of showing just how most esteemed ingredients: slivers of black influential he was, both for his hearty French truffle, cubes of melt-in-the-mouth foie gras, cuisine and his passionate belief that good, tiny squares of succulent beef and mirepoix local ingredients are the key to great food. vegetables, which I lift from the steaming Video clips and clever displays explain how broth made with Noilly Prat vermouth and an he learned his trade from la mère Brazier, the intense peppery beef stock. It’s too hot to eat, most famous of the Mères Lyonnaises (‘mothers but I burn my lips in my urgency to savour of Lyon’). From the 18th century onwards, these every drop of its richness. The signature dish is generations of domestic cooks put Lyon on the More Bocuse classics follow and I’m full placed in front of me culinary map. Meanwhile, other displays show long before the cheese trolly arrives, but I how the Michelin Guide was born out of the can’t resist it. Nor can I decline the dessert and I grin like a goon French tyre manufacturer’s desire to encourage trolley, laden with such classics as rum baba in anticipation. It’s motorists to travel further to dine — and in and lemon mousse. I opt for the île flottante, been served to guests doing so, wear out more tyres. And I learn how a cloud of egg-white meringue, around which the best restaurants on the famous N7 route, the waiter pours creme anglaise from a silver since before I was born between Paris and Nice via Lyon, consequently ladle. He then smiles as he places a side order NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL 65 LYON Left: the kitchen at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges Cervelle des Canuts of creme brulee on the table. My eyes widen, chefs, Tabata Mey and her husband Ludovic, The name may translate as my body says no, but my taste buds won’t be who run a small, excellent restaurant named ‘silk workers’ brains’, but it is, denied. To finish, a small espresso, not nearly Les Apothicaires in Part-Dieu. The couple met in fact, vegetarian.