Test Review #3 Design 20 20’s Coco Chanel Most influential 20th century fashion designer. Fall ‘06 Inspired by men’s wear & tailoring simple, easy, sporty and relaxed Fashion/Clothing Pullover sweater for women. Functions (not universal or constant) Little black dress 1. Warmth and Protection Made suntan fashionable 2. Supply Information about the wearer Age World War II Breeching Renaissance England -- boys first pants Men: Bomber jackets, fur lined to protect pilots. Until ‘50s: Kids same types of clothes as parents. Women’s work wear: Toddlers seldom wore bright colors. Overalls and pants. Group Identification Necessity -- women doing men’s jobs Military, Police, Religious Groups, Ceremonial Patriotism -- to assist war effort Social Status Sumptuary Laws After rationing of WWII, glamorous fashion period. Designed to restrict excessive personal expenditures usu- Yves Saint Laurent ally on social, religious or moral grounds. Art and fashion drawn together Examples: Mondrian inspired dress France, only kings could use gold & silver embroidery Civil Rights Movement 60’s brought awareness & China yellow fabric limited to Emperor. appreciation of African culture, fabrics & art. Africa: Ashanti tribe, only Kings could wear certain pat- Therez Fleetwood, African American designer terns. Kente cloth patterns, Fabrics from Senegal

1900’s French Haute Couture (high sewing). Giorgio Armani, Italian Prices so high only wealthy could purchase. Revolutionized men ‘s wear Removed traditional padding Impractical fashions for wealthy women = Using light weight luxury fabric for suits husband or father could afford to hire servants. softer more relaxed style Restrictive dress. Examples: Elizabethan layers of petticoats and skirts. Issey Miyake -- Japanese clothing designer Bound feet & small shoes China as likely to be found in museums as Saks Hobble skirt early 1900s’ Corset Celebrity Influence Katharine Hepburn 30’s pants 3. Enhance Sexual Appeal Frank Sinatra 30’s bow ties Erogenous zones shift to emphasize various areas of body. Clark Gable undershirt Men: Corset, Cod piece James Dean Blue jeans and T-shirts 50’s Women: Jackie Kennedy Bustle Criticized for wearing French designers Corset Supports of: wale bone, cane or metal. Selected Oleg Cassini (American) Mini skirt Official White House designer. Trademark suit and pillbox hat. Bloomers -- Amelia Jenks Bloomer 1850’s (Woman’s rights advocate) Color, Line, Form

Visual Anomalies & Illusions Political Influences Characteristic errors of the visual system. Spanish dominance of Europe, 16th century Illusions provide a window into brain functioning, Males: leg-o-mutton sleeves revealing underlying mechanisms about failure in ruff and doublet with skirt attached visual perception. Examples: Great Britain 19th century Zöllner Illusion: males: three-piece lounge suit Cross-hatching disturbs perception of parallel lines. educated urban elites worldwide. Color, Line, Form (cont.) Apple Logo Gestalt & Illusory Contours: Concept of Steve Jobs & team. Objects are grouped to achieve simplicity of form. First computer firm not using corporate name in identity. Figure and Ground: Negative and positive forms. BMW Logo (M. C. Escher, Dutch artist uses figure/ground) 1930s’ Bavarian Motor Works -- Necker Cube: originated WWI Bavarian planes Studies ambiguity and object reversibility. represent’s pilots view through plane propeller

Scott Kim typographer / font designs that can be inverted IBM Logo rotated to create ambigrams. Paul Rand Ambigram: word or a group of words which can be read Elliot Noyes modernized IBM’s design philosophy. in at least two different ways. Herb Lubalin 1918-’81 Trompe l’oeil, “trick the eye,” technique that creates a Most talented type designer of his generation. realistic image (a type of optical illusion). Figurative typographer. Founded ITC. Hues -- basic colors, from which all others are made Typogram --illustrative use of type and logos Tone -- relative degree of lightness or darkness. Magazines : Intensity -- degree of purity, saturation. Saturday Evening Post, Eros, Fact & Avant Garde Simultaneous Contrast Color is more intense if surrounded by neutralized hues Saul Bass or juxtaposed with complementary color. Achieved fame in multiple disciplines. Successive Contrast Photographer, writer, actor and film director. Afterimage. May be positive, same color as original image, Academy Award for “Why Man Creates”. or negative, the complementary color. Created large corporate identity programs: Josef Albers painter AT&T, United Airlines, Minolta, General Foods Researched human responses to color Animation & live action for credits Teacher at the Bauhaus Created mini-films for prologues & epilogue credits. Friend of architect Luis Barragan West Side Story & Around the World in 80 Days Walk on the Wild Side Bezold Effect (Optical Color Mixture) Certain strong colors, evenly distributed With Otto Preminger: can appear much lighter or darker. Technique used by Impressionists. Anatomy of a Murder The Man with the Golden Arm

Color Blindness Inability to distinguish one (or more) of three colors: red, With Alfred Hitchcock: green, and blue. Vertigo Example: Psycho -- credits and directed shower scene Red-blind persons are unable to distinguish between red and green. Doyle Dane Bernbach 1. A sex-linked recessive characteristic. Madison Avenue, hottest advertising agency of 60’s. 2. 20 times as many males as females Ethnically / gender diverse employees. Achromatopsia: Best Known campaigns: Total color blindness -- extremely rare. Avis -- Number 2 tries harder. In ‘59 Volkswagen “Beetle”

Graphics 30’s Sans Serif fonts Volkswagen “People’s Car.” Designed by the Bauhaus. Sales in Europe good - due to post war shortages Serif fonts considered holdover from handwriting. of gas and materials.

Peter Behrens -- German architect, designer Volkswagen -- Sales in US slow: directly influenced: Walter Gropius, Mies Van der Rohe, Car’s small size. and Le Corbusier. Unusual appearance Concept of total corporate identity through graphics. No fins, streamlining, little chrome Lack of power. Connections with Nazi Germany.

Doyle Dane Bernbach (cont.) Hollywood Stars -- American Royalty Witty copy appealed to 60’s generation. Mary Pickford, dubbed “America’s Sweetheart” 1913 - Used perceived disadvantages to sell VW’s: size (gas mileage, parking, maneuvering). Charlie Chaplin Lemon campaign - “Our inspectors are picky” Director, actor and British vaudevillian Produced, directed, wrote, starred in, did the No planned obsolescence choreography and musical scoring for his films. Improvements for function, not style. “City Lights” Chaplin’s longest undertaking.

Target Campaign -- Kirshenbaum, Bond Woody Allen Goals: Only American movie director in the modern age to Dispel belief merchandise same as Wallmart & Kmart have achieved absolute independence . Fashion campaign with hardware & housewares. “Manhattan” Homage to Chaplin, Target customers: 40, college educated, median income $47,000. First spoken voice in a feature film: Copy latest designs -- in stores within 6 months. “The Jazz Singer” Al Jolson

Absolut Top Grossing Films (adjusted for inflation etc.) 1981, company settled on first & most successful 1. Gone with The Wind advertising campaign. 2. Star Wars One of most effective campaigns of the 20th century. American Film Institute Best Films -- from top 100 Asserted its superiority. 1. Citizen Kane Diffused pomposity with humor. 2. Casablanca Sales increase from 1981 to late 90’s =14,900%. Photography Motion Pictures Daguerre, scientist 1839 Persistence of Vision -- An optical phenomenon : Announced technique for creating permanent image Illusion of smooth, and continuous movement. with light. Stimulus registered in brain after stimulus ends. Daguerreotypes meant average families could Examples: Movies, flip books, kinetoscopes. afford portraits.

Kinetoscope (1889) George Eastman Bulky, coin-operated, movie peep show. 1888 first pocket camera A continuous film loop viewed in motion, not projected. The Kodak -- named for sound of shutter.

Thomas Edison William Henry Jackson 1870’s First Landscape photography American West. “Motion picture” 1893 Fred Ott’s Sneeze Persuaded Congress to create national park Film studio, the “Black Maria,” New Jersey. (Yellowstone).

Lumiere Brothers, Paris Alfred Stieglitz, late 19th & early 20th century. Solved problems of projection. Photographer, East Coast First commercial exhibition of movie. Promoted photography as an art. Gallery, known as the “291”. Nickelodeon - Cinema for a nickel. Pittsburgh. Journal: Camera Work. Magic Lantern - Synonym for the film projector. F64 (after a small aperture). Informal group D.W. Griffith West coast -- primarily landscape photography: First cinematic storyteller. Large format cameras (8”x10” or 4”x5” negatives). Inventive camera movement -- a language of shots for Black & white photographs. dramatic effect & character development. Among the members: Edward Weston, Ansel Adams, Imogen Cunningham. First color: Disney’s animated short Flowers and Trees (1932) Disney’s first Academy Award. THE 20’s In addition to the topics and individuals discussed during Three significant photographic developments. the last third of the course, pay particular 1. Color film (not widely used til early 60’s.) attention to reviewing the following 2. The birth of tabloid size newspaper (N.Y. City) designers / subjects / architects from previous a. Small size -- convenient. exams: b. Relied heavily upon photographs c. Sensational content: Le Corbusier celebrities, socialites and gangsters. Charles and Ray Eames d. The Graphic -- tabloid named for a Frank Gehry camera. Philip Johnson 3. The invention of the 35mm camera -- Germany Michael Graves a. Important tool for photojournalists Mies Van Der Rohe b. Allowed photographers to capture Frank Lloyd Wright “Decisive Moment” -- Cartier Bresson Eero Saarinen c. Not widely used until WWII. Walter Gropius

Nikon F ‘59 Styles Single lens reflex Classical Helped established photographers Art Nouveau as media stars Neoclassical Art Deco Coverage of wars changed with Vietnam. Modern Press more willing to show: Postmodern a. Atrocities committed by both sides. b. Deaths of civilians.

Documentarians Conscience of photographers. Sabastio Salgado, Brazilian documentary photographer.

Portraits Annie Leibovitz Rolling Stone Magazine photographer 60’s. Vanity Fair Photo Editor (current). Studio in Chrysler building.

Fashion Photography Irving Penn, Vogue Magazine More Vogue covers than any other photographer

Richard Avedon Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue

Digital technology 1. Computers instead of darkrooms to create images. a. Photographs can be scanned from negatives, slides or prints b. Traditional darkroom adjustments on computer 2 .Images can be made by a film-less digital camera.

Sacramento Bee was the first newspaper in the country to use computers to handle photographs.