Hats: an Anthology by Stephen Jones
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A Sheffield Hallam University Thesis
How do I look? Viewing, embodiment, performance, showgirls, and art practice. CARR, Alison J. Available from the Sheffield Hallam University Research Archive (SHURA) at: http://shura.shu.ac.uk/19426/ A Sheffield Hallam University thesis This thesis is protected by copyright which belongs to the author. The content must not be changed in any way or sold commercially in any format or medium without the formal permission of the author. When referring to this work, full bibliographic details including the author, title, awarding institution and date of the thesis must be given. Please visit http://shura.shu.ac.uk/19426/ and http://shura.shu.ac.uk/information.html for further details about copyright and re-use permissions. How Do I Look? Viewing, Embodiment, Performance, Showgirls, & Art Practice Alison Jane Carr A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of Sheffield Hallam University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy ProQuest Number: 10694307 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a com plete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. uest ProQuest 10694307 Published by ProQuest LLC(2017). Copyright of the Dissertation is held by the Author. All rights reserved. This work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code Microform Edition © ProQuest LLC. ProQuest LLC. 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106- 1346 Declaration I, Alison J Carr, declare that the enclosed submission for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, and consisting of a written thesis and a DVD booklet, meets the regulations stated in the handbook for the mode of submission selected and approved by the Research Degrees Sub-Committee of Sheffield Hallam University. -
The Hat Magazine Archive Issues 1 - 10
The Hat Magazine Archive Issues 1 - 10 Issue No Date Main Articles Workroom Process ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Issue 1 Apr-Jun 1999 Luton - Ascot Shoot - Sean Barratt Feathers - Dawn Bassam -Trade Shows - Fashion Museums & Dillon Wallwork ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Issue 2 Jul-Sep 1999 Paris – Marie O’Regan – Royal Ascot Working with crinn with - Student Shows – Geoff Roberts Frederick Fox ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Issue 3 Oct-Nov 1999 Hat Designer of the Year ’99 - Block Making with Men in Hats, shoot – Trade Fairs Serafina Grafton-Beaves ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Issue 4 Jan-Mar 2000 Mitzi Lorenz – Philip Treacy couture Working with sinamay (1) show Paris – Florence – Bridal shoot with Marie O’Regan Street page – Trades Shows ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Issue 5 Apr-Jun 2000 Coco Chanel – Trade Fairs Working with sinamay (2) Dagmara Childs – Knits Shoot with Marie O’Regan Street page - Trade Shows ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Issue 6 Jul-Sep 2000 Luton shoot – Royal Ascot Working with -
Retail Product Merchandising: Retail Buying-Selling Cycle
Retail Product Merchandising: Retail Buying-Selling Cycle SECTION 2: Establishing the Retail Merchandise Mix Part 1: The Basics of the Retail Merchandise Mix Part 1: 1-2 Industry Zones in the Apparel Industry Fashion products, especially in the women’s wear industry, are categorized by the industry zone in which they are produced and marketed. Industry has designated these zones as a) Haute Couture or couture, b) designer, c) bridge, d) contemporary, e) better, f) moderate, g) popular price/budget/mass, and g) discount/off price. Often the industry emphasizes the wholesale costs or price points of the merchandise in order to define the zone. However, price alone is not the major factor impacting the placement of the merchandise in the zone. Major factors impacting the zone classifications include the following criteria: . fashion level of the design (i.e., degree of design innovation inherent or intrinsic to the merchandise) . type and name of designer creating and developing the design concept . wholesale cost and retail price of product . types and quality of fibers and fineness of fabrications, trims, and findings . standards of construction quality or workmanship quality. In summary, the classification of a zone is based on the type of designer creating the product, design level of the product, type and quality of fabrications, standards of the workmanship, and the price range of the merchandise. Therefore, depending upon the lifestyle of the target consumer, the fashion taste level of that consumer (i.e., position of product on the fashion curve), and the current fashion trend direction in the market, the retailer, when procuring the merchandise mix, selects the industry zone(s) which offer(s) the product characteristics most desired by the target consumer. -
Stephen Jones Datasheet
TITLE INFORMATION Tel: +44 (0) 1394 389950 Email: [email protected] Web: https://www.accartbooks.com/uk Stephen Jones And the Accent of Fashion Hanish Bowles ISBN 9781851496525 Publisher ACC Art Books Binding Hardback Territory World Size 300 mm x 240 mm Pages 240 Pages Illustrations 297 color Price £45.00 First monograph on the work of the celebrated milliner Stephen Jones With a preface by John Galliano and texts by authorities such as Hamish Bowles, Andrew Bolton, Suzy Menkes and Anna Piaggi, with new photography by Nick Knight and David Bailey "Picture the moment, in the run-up to a Christian Dior haute couture show. John Galliano is working silently in the Paris studio with his friend and ally, the master milliner Stephen Jones. The designer is looking at the arc of a silhouette, the drape of a skirt and the tilt of a hat: 'I often work through a mirror for most of my decisions and I always see Stephen's reflection,' says Galliano. 'He is reading my every nuance. He is studying my face. I don't need to say anything - he can read my mind'." - From the essay by Suzy Menkes. Stephen Jones is one of the world's most talented and distinguished milliners. This exquisitely illustrated monograph is the first to examine his illustrious career and famous collaborations. Including photographs from private collections and museums, the book focuses on a variety of aspects of his work, from his collaborations with Boy George, John Galliano and Thierry Mugler to his work with photographers Bruce Weber and Nick Knight. -
The Mini Skirt Danielle Hueston New York City College of Technology Textiles
The Mini Skirt Danielle Hueston New York City College of Technology Textiles When I was six my mother and I took one of our weekly day shopping trips to the mall. On our way back we stopped at this local thrift store. This being one of the first times I had ever experienced one, everything seemed so different and weird, in a good way. I wasn’t used to there only being one of everything, or one store that sold clothes, books, toys, home decor and shoes.Walking down the ‘bottoms aisle’ is where I first came across it. It was black and flowy, probably a cotton material, with a black elastic band around the waist. I wanted it, I needed it. It was the perfect mini skirt. It reminded me of the one I saw Regina George wear in the Hallway Scene in the movie ‘Mean Girls’ a few months prior and had to get it, even though it was a “little” big. There was only one, I was going to make it work. When Monday came I wasted no time showing off my new skirt at school. It made me feel like a whole new person. At some point of the day however my teacher had stepped out of the room to talk to another teacher, in conjunction one of my classmates playfully grabbed my pencil out of my hand, to which I decided to chase him around the room to retrieve it back. I tripped and my skirt fell right to my ankles, in front of the entire class. -
Yves Saint Laurent: the Perfection of Style: Educator Resource Guide
EDUCATOR RESOURCE GUIDE OVERVIEW ABOUT THE EXHIBITION Organized by the Seattle Art Museum in partnership with the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style highlights the legendary fashion designer’s 44-year career. Known for his haute couture designs, Yves Saint Laurent’s creative process included directing a team of designers working to create his vision of each garment. He would often begin by sketching the clothing he imagined, then a team would work to sew and create his designs. After the first version of the garment was created with simple fabric called muslin, Saint Laurent would select the final fabric for the garment. Under Saint Laurent’s direction, his team would piece the garment together—first on amannequin , next on a model. Working collaboratively, the team made changes according to Saint Laurent’s decisions, sewing new parts before the final garment was finished. Taking inspiration from changes in society around him, Saint Laurent adapted his designs over the years. Starting his career designing custom-made clothing worn by upper-class women, he shifted his focus to create clothing that more people would want to wear and could afford. He responded to contemporary changes of the time and pushed gender, class, and expressive boundaries of fashion. He created innovative, glamorous pantsuits for women, ready-to-wear clothing for the wider population, and high fashion inspired by what he saw young people wearing on the street. In 1971 Yves Saint Laurent summed this up with one sentence, “What I want to do is shock people, force them to think.” The exhibition features over 100 haute couture and ready-to-wear garments. -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Media Guide 1 Contents
Tuesday 19th - Saturday 23rd June 2018 MEDIA GUIDE 1 CONTENTS WELCOME TO ROYAL ASCOT FROM HER MAJESTY’S REPRESENTATIVE 4 VISITOR INFORMATION 5 RACING AT ROYAL ASCOT 6 RECORD PRIZE MONEY OF £13.45 MILLION AT ASCOT IN 2018 7 ROYAL ASCOT 2017 REVIEW 8 ROYAL ASCOT 2018 ORDER OF RUNNING AND PRIZE MONEY 10 ROYAL ASCOT GROUP I ENTRIES 12 A GLOBAL EVENT: ROYAL ASCOT’S RACE PROGRAMME MILESTONES 14 THE WEATHERBYS HAMILTON STAYERS’ MILLION 16 FOUR BREEDERS’ CUP CHALLENGE RACES TO BE HELD AT ROYAL ASCOT IN 2018 17 WORLD HORSE RACING LAUNCHES THE ULTIMATE DIGITAL RACING EXPERIENCE 18 CUSTOMERS INVITED TO BET WITH ASCOT 19 2018 GOFFS LONDON SALE GIVEN A NEW LOOK AT SAME ADDRESS 20 THE ROAD TO QIPCO BRITISH CHAMPIONS DAY 21 THE BELL ÉPOQUE 22 VETERINARY FACILITIES, EQUINE AND JOCKEYS’ FACILITIES 26 CHRIS STICKELS, CLERK OF THE COURSE 27 BROADCASTERS AT ROYAL ASCOT 28 NEW AT ROYAL ASCOT 30 COMMONWEALTH FASHION EXCHANGE 31 ASCOT RACECOURSE SUPPORTS 32 SCULPTURES 34 SHOPPING: THE COLLECTION 39 PARTNERS & SUPPLIERS 42 ASCOT’S OFFICIAL PARTNERS 43 ASCOT’S OFFICIAL SPONSORS AND SUPPLIERS 46 FASHION & DRESS CODE 50 ASCOT LAUNCHES THE SEVENTH ANNUAL ROYAL ASCOT STYLE GUIDE 51 THE HISTORY OF FASHION AT ROYAL ASCOT - KEY DATES 52 THE ROYAL ASCOT MILLINERY COLLECTIVE 2018 54 ROYAL ASCOT DRESS CODE 56 FINE DINING AT ROYAL ASCOT 58 FINE DINING AT ROYAL ASCOT CONTINUES TO DIVERSIFY AND DELIGHT 59 ASCOT HISTORY 66 ASCOT STORIES AND OTHER PROMOTIONAL FILMS 67 ROYAL ASCOT - THE ROYAL PROCESSION 68 THE BOWLER HAT AND ASCOT 71 ROYAL ASCOT FACTS AND FIGURES 72 ASCOT RACECOURSE -
Hammer Museum Summer 2012 Non Profit Org
For additional program information:For additionalprogram 310-443-7000 Wilshire Boulevard California LosAngeles, 90024USA10899 Hammer MuseumSummer2012 www.hammer.ucla.edu BEGINNING JUNE1 Saturday & Sunday 11am–5pm &Sunday Saturday MUSEUM HOURS Tuesday–Friday 11am–8pm Tuesday–Friday Closed Mondays NEW Los Angeles, CALos Angeles, Permit no.202 Non Profit Org. Profit Non US Postage PAID IN. IN. 4 ⁄ 1 X 8 16 ⁄ 11 , 2012 (DETAIL). DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPH. DIGITAL , 2012 (DETAIL). 2011 (DETAIL). GRAPHITE AND ACRYLIC ON PAPER. 11 ON PAPER. GRAPHITE AND ACRYLIC 2011 (DETAIL). Summer 2012 Calendar Summer 2012 MOUNTAINS DWARF THE CITY, DWARF MOUNTAINS . CHARACTER PORTRAIT (ISABELLA BLOW, MARIO TESTINO VERSION) (ISABELLA BLOW, CHARACTER PORTRAIT . SCOLI ACOSTA MICHELE O’MARAH COVER: FRONT: COVER: FRONT: AND GALERIE LAURENT GODIN, PARIS. SCOLI ACOSTA COURTESY GUNEWARDENA. (29.7 X 21 CM). COLLECTION OF FRANK ESCHER AND RAVI BACK: WEDEMEYER. PHOTO BY ROBERT THE ARTIST. COURTESY DIMENSIONS VARIABLE. NEW MUSEUM HOURS 2 3 BEGINNING JUNE 1 HAMMER NEWS Tuesday–Friday 11am–8pm, Saturday & Sunday 11am–5pm, Closed Mondays news director the 1 HIGHLIGHTS FROM RECENT ACQUISITIONS L.A.-based artist Charles Gaines works with various mediums, including photography, drawing, text, and video, relying on existing and invented systems to generate his from A MESSAGE FROM THE DIRECTOR works. Numbers & Trees VI, Landscape, #4 (1989) is part of a body of work in which Gaines transformed photographic images within a series of prescribed operations. Made in L.A. 2012 is finally here! For nearly two years of the Tate’s Turner Prize and the Whitney Museum of the staffs at the Hammer and LA><ART have worked at American Art’s Bucksbaum Award. -
Places to Go, People To
Hanson mistakenINSIDE EXCLUSIVE:for witches, burned. VerThe Vanderbilt Hustler’s Arts su & Entertainment Magazine s OCTOBER 28—NOVEMBER 3, 2009 VOL. 47, NO. 23 VANDY FALL FASHION We found 10 students who put their own spin on this season’s trends. Check it out when you fl ip to page 9. Cinematic Spark Notes for your reading pleasure on page 4. “I’m a mouse. Duh!” Halloween costume ideas beyond animal ears and hotpants. Turn to page 8 and put down the bunny ears. PLACES TO GO, PEOPLE TO SEE THURSDAY, OCTOBER 29 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 30 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 31 The Regulars The Black Lips – The Mercy Lounge Jimmy Hall and The Prisoners of Love Reunion Show The Avett Brothers – Ryman Auditorium THE RUTLEDGE The Mercy Lounge will play host to self described psychedelic/ There really isn’t enough good to be said about an Avett Brothers concert. – 3rd and Lindsley 410 Fourth Ave. South 37201 comedy band the Black Lips. With heavy punk rock infl uence and Singing dirty blues and southern rock with an earthy, roots The energy, the passion, the excitement, the emotion, the talent … all are 782-6858 mildly witty lyrics, these Lips are not Flaming but will certainly music sound, Jimmy Hall and his crew stick to the basics with completely unrivaled when it comes to the band’s explosive live shows. provide another sort of entertainment. The show will lean towards a songs like “Still Want To Be Your Man.” The no nonsense Whether it’s a heart wrenchingly beautiful ballad or a hard-driving rock punk or skaa atmosphere, though less angry. -
REPEAL ASSOCATION..Wps
REPEAL ASSOCATION. Detroit-25 th July, 1844 To Daniel O’Donnell, Esq. M.P. Sir--The Detroit repealers beg leave respectfully to accompany their address by a mite of contribution towards the fine imposed on you, and solicit the favour of being allowed to participate in its payment. They would remit more largely, but are aware that others will also claim a like privilege. I am directed therefore to send you £20, and to solicit your acceptance of it towards the above object. We lately send 100/., to the Repeal Association, and within the past year another sum of 55/. Should there be any objection to our present request on your part or otherwise, we beg of you to apply it at your own discretion. I have the honour, Sir, to be your humble servant. H.H. Emmons, Corrres. Sec. Detroit Repeal Association. Contributers to the £20 send. C.H.Stewart, Dublin. Denis Mullane, Mallow, Co. Cork. Michael Dougherty, Newry. James Fitzmorris, Clonmel. Dr. James C. White, Mallow. James J. Hinde, Galway. John O’Callaghan, Braney, Co. Cork, one of the 1798 Patriots. (This could be Blarney). F.M. Grehie. Waterford. Michael Mahon, Limerick. George Gibson, Detroit. Christopher Cone, Tyrone, John Woods, Meath. Mr. and Mrs Hugh O’Beirne, Leitrim. James Leddy, Cavan. John Wade, Dublin, Denis O’Brien, Co. Kilkenny. James Collins, Omagh, Tyrone. Charles Moran, Detroit. Michael Kennedy, Waterford. Cornelius Dougherty, Tipperary. Thomas Sullivan, Cavan. Daniel Brislan, Tipperary. James Higgins, Kilkenny, Denis Lanigan, Kilkenny, John Sullivan, Mallow. Terence Reilly, Cavan, John Manning, Queens County. John Bermingham, Clare. Patrick MacTierney, Cavan. -
1 | Page the EVOLUTION of 'IMMERSIVE
THE EVOLUTION OF ‘IMMERSIVE’ EXHIBTIONS AT THE V&A MUSEUM, LONDON – 2008-2021 By Victoria Broackes and Geoffrey Marsh 1. Introduction GCDN members have expressed interest in the potential of ‘immersive’ exhibitions and related ‘experiences’ as programmatic elements that can meet their ambitions for broadening the base of their audiences. Audience analysis does demonstrate that these ‘experiences’ offer the opportunity of a cost-effective option with the ability to attract larger and more diverse audiences. As a result, there is particular curiosity about whether there is a basic underlying methodology, which can, however, create varied outputs that are faithful to the character and mission of their own districts. A comprehensive study of immersive exhibitions would require a book, so, as a starting point, this review examines the experience of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London – where we and colleagues have curated a series of immersive exhibitions over the last fifteen years. It stresses this was an evolutionary journey where skills, opportunities and confidence built up over time. However, the growth of a (semi-) commercial immersive exhibition market over this period means that GCDN members may have the opportunity of short circuiting such a process by connecting to an increasing number of ‘off the peg’ products, systems and creators in the post-Covid world. Sections 2, 3 and 4 trace the evolution as it happened, not simply as a matter of record but also to illustrate the interplay of opportunities, technology, sponsorship and other factors that impacted what was produced. Those seeking a summary overview may best move directly to Section 5 onwards.