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The Lace Is on Women’S Studio Director Julie De Libran Looked to the Heroines of François Truffaut’S Sixties Films for Louis Vuitton’S Pre-Fall Collection

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The Lace Is on Women’S Studio Director Julie De Libran Looked to the Heroines of François Truffaut’S Sixties Films for Louis Vuitton’S Pre-Fall Collection WoVen WonDerS AnyA HindmArcH, roger ViVier And Pierre HArdy Are just A few of tHe designers weAVing strAw And roPe into tHeir sPring collections. PAges 6 And 7 GILLES GETS ARTY: gilles Bensimon HAs A new exHiBit of Art PHotogrAPHs in london. PAge 10 WWDMONDAY, JANUARY 7, 2013 ■ WOMeN’s WeAR DAilY ■ $3.00 The Changing Online WOrld Digital’s big trends: mobile, Localization ■ Back to basics, with a focus on By RAchel stRUgAtz customer service online. Online shopping is already re- NeW YORK — this year is all sponsible for shifting the retail cal- about becoming more mobile. endar, disrupting the traditional hol- Mobile commerce is primed to iday shopping cycle as the number dominate the digital space over of consumers buying online grows the next 12 months. Also expected exponentially. the more wide- in the year ahead is a rapid adop- spread use of broadband internet tion of localizing (as well as hyper- connections, combined with smart- localizing) shopping, capturing data phones and tablets, is allowing and personalizing the online expe- shopping to take place earlier than rience platform-wide. Otherwise, ever — even on thanksgiving, days many of the other trends predicted before cyber Monday. to reign in 2013 are an extension — Alan Marks, eBay inc.’s senior and a further implementation — of vice president of global communi- current digital concepts that have cations, said mobile continues to yet to widely infiltrate the industry. be the catalyst that’s changing not they include: only how retail operates, but how ■ Mobile ads and “native advertising.” consumers shop. compared with ■ A further embracing of the om- four years ago, when m-commerce nichannel experience. “barely existed,” eBay can now ■ social commerce. bring its vast selection (home to 105 ■ Merging in-store and online. million active users) to consum- ■ increased video content. ers anywhere, anytime they want. see PAge 6 Missoni Search Continues four people disappeared in the By lUisA zARgANi and area Friday. AlessANDRA tURRA the Missonis are a well-liked, tight-knit family and the italian MilAN — Venezuelan search par- media’s reaction to the news re- COLLECTIONS ties continued to scour the waters flected this sentiment, with sev- off the los Roques archipelago eral pages in sunday newspapers for the third day sunday looking dedicated to the history of the Pre-FaLL for the plane carrying Vittorio brand and possible explanations 2013 Missoni, head of the family-owned for the disappearance of the plane. Missoni fashion business, his life the news was closely followed by partner Maurizia castiglioni and the italian press, and television two friends. reports were frequently updated A small plane carrying the throughout the weekend. Reports see PAge 9 The Lace Is On Women’s studio director Julie de Libran looked to the heroines of François truffaut’s Sixties films for Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall collection. thus came an abundance of lace — “from baptism to funeral,” de Libran quipped — worked in traditional form as well as a variety of novel techniques. here, from left, a printed satin jacket and skirt and a wool and mink cape with a flocked double satin skirt. For more, see wwd.com/runway. Photo by Dominique maitre w07a001a.indd 1 1/6/13 3:40 PM 01062013154313 2 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 7, 2013 WWD.COM FGI Names Rising Star Award Finalists THE BRIEFING BOX Max Kibardin and Swims’ Johan Beauty and Joseph Quartana of By MARC KARIMZADEH Ringdal. Fine jewelry’s finalists Six Scents Parfums. For home-in- IN TODAY’S WWD are Alexandra Mor, Jenny Klatt terior design, finalists are Materia NEW YORK — Fashion Group and Stephanie Wynne Lalin of Arquitectónica’s Gustavo Carmona International unveiled this year’s Jemma Wynne and Torrubia & Muñoz, Lindsey Adelman Studio’s nominees for its Rising Star Torrubia’s Amaia and Yolanda Lindsey Adelman and Rachel A dining area at Ma Cocotte, designed by Philippe Starck. Awards, set for Jan. 24 at Cipriani Torrubia. Meanwhile, retail Laxer Interiors’ Rachel Laxer. 42nd Street with Ralph Rucci as nominees are Fivestory’s Claire Award presenters include the keynote speaker. Distenfeld, Hayley Barna and Derek Lam, Chris Mitchell, Terron Finalists for women’s ready-to- Katie Beauchamp of Birchbox, Schaefer, Laura Slatkin, Linda wear are Nellie Partow, Giovanna Áslaug Magnúsdóttir and Lauren Wells, Marion Fasel, Mickey Randall of Honor, Tia Cibani, Santo Domingo of Moda Operandi Boardman and Michael Boodro. Norisol Ferrari, Brandon Sun, and Shen Beauty’s Jessica The event will also feature Vengsarkar Budhu of Gavaskar, Richards and Julie Stringer. the first Karen Harvey Business Loris Diran, Norman Ambrose In beauty, the fragrance cor- Innovator Award, which, accord- and Rolando Santana. In men’s porate award will be decided be- ing to FGI president Margaret wear, they are Andy Hilfiger of tween the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.’s Hayes, “embodies the entre- MAITRE Andrew Charles, Todd Snyder, Tim Alana Hawawini, Mane USA’s preneurial spirit of Rising Star. Coppens and Ariel and Shimon Yadira Perez, IFF’s Ruhi Patil Throughout her career, Karen Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons. The ac- and NARS Cosmetics’ Samantha Harvey has forged her own suc- DOMINIQUE cessories winner will be chosen Giordano. The fragrance entre- cessful path through creativity BY from Cornelia Guest, Anndra preneur nominees are Arquiste and innovation and to have her Neen’s Phoebe and Annette Parfumeur’s Carlos Huber, recognize those same qualities PHOTO Stephens, Adriana Castro, Dixie Vbeaute’s Julie Macklowe, Tony in a Rising Star finalist with this Mobile commerce is primed to dominate the digital space Dunbar Studio’s Soteria Kontis, Perez and Meredith Waga of Belle award is very meaningful.” Karen over the next 12 months. PAGE 1 Megan Papay and Cristina Palomo- Fleur New York, Kahina Giving Harvey Consulting Group is a Nelson of Freda Salvador, Manù’s Beauty’s Katharine L’Heureux, sponsor of the awards, along with Search parties continued to scour the waters off the Los Emanuela Frattini Magnusson, Lisa Hoffman of Lisa Hoffman Saks Fifth Avenue and InStyle. Roques archipelago on Sunday looking for the plane carrying Vittorio Missoni, Maurizia Castiglioni and two friends. PAGE 1 Fashion Group International unveiled this year’s Stores Buck Trend, Cut Jobs in Dec. nominees for its Rising Star Awards, where Ralph Rucci will be the keynote speaker. PAGE 2 ing 33,000 jobs in November. four months. Department stores, By KRISTI ELLIS Department stores trimmed 4,800 on the other hand, are “hurting, al- Apparel specialty retailers and department stores jobs from payrolls to employ 1.5 though not terribly,” Hoyt said. The trimmed payrolls in December despite a gain in WASHINGTON — Apparel special- million last month. General mer- monthly average over the past four PAGE 2 ty retailers and department stores chandise stores, a category that months is a decline of 350 jobs in employment in the overall economy. trimmed payrolls in December de- includes department stores, added the department store sector. spite a gain in employment in the 300 jobs to employ 3.1 million. General merchandise stores, Hong Kong-based Fung Retailing Ltd. has taken a 70 overall economy at a time of fiscal “Apparel specialty stores had including both department stores percent stake in Suhyang Networks, a South Korean uncertainty, a Labor Department a large decline in December, but and discounters, have been adding children’s apparel maker. PAGE 2 report showed Friday. that was preceded by a big in- 8,000 jobs a month over the same Economists said the tense fis- crease in the preceding month,” period. “That is relatively healthy, Spain’s finances are in a sorry state, but the value cal cliff negotiation in Washington said Scott Hoyt, director of con- and it is better than we saw in the fashion retail sector is up and running. PAGE 8 had some impact on business sumer economics at Moody’s first half of the year,” Hoyt said. confidence and as a result led to In the manufacturing sector, The Federal Trade Commission has fined four retailers weaker hiring, particularly among apparel employment fell by 400 a combined $1.26 million for allegedly falsely labeling smaller businesses in the month. to 145,800. Mills making apparel rayon products as made of bamboo. PAGE 8 Although Congress and the White fabrics and yarns added 400 jobs House struck a New Year’s Eve 1.5M to employ 119,900 last month, Alexander Wang brought in Steven Klein to shoot deal on taxes that averted a finan- while mills making home fur- Malgosia Bela for his spring ad campaign. PAGE 9 cial crisis, the two sides will have NUMBER OF PEOPLE EMPLOYED BY nishings products added 800 jobs to negotiate a new compromise DEPARTMENT STORES LAST MONTH. to employ 115,000. Vogue Italia celebrates global, multicultural fashion by the end of March on automatic “It is hard to see employ- society with its January issue. PAGE 9 spending cuts to federal budgets ment growth accelerating early and also confront the debt ceiling, Analytics. “It was the timing of hir- in 2013, but we do think that the which could further dampen busi- ing with a shift in Thanksgiving,” economy’s fundamentals are For his debut exhibit as a fine artist, fashion lensman ness and consumer confidence, which fell earlier this year and led gradually improving and look to Gilles Bensimon photographed flowers after submerging according to economists. to a boost in hiring in November. faster growth later in the year to them in water. PAGE 10 Apparel and accessories stores Hoyt said employment at ap- produce an average monthly jobs cut payrolls by 18,700 jobs on a sea- parel and accessories stores is gain of 170,000 for 2013,” said A handful of Richemont-owned watch brands won sonally adjusted basis in December still healthy, growing about 9,000 Nigel Gault, chief U.S.
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