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Hemen Da Uzta Berria 2018ko urtarrila · 1 zenbakia Sagarrondotik ARGIAren aldizkaria sagardoaren kulturaz Hemen da uzta berria » Unai Agirre, sagardoaz, bertsolaritzaz eta bien arteko loturaz » Sagarrondoaren egoera Euskal Herrian: Aitor Etxeandiaren analisia » Sagardoa egiteko lupulua baliatuko bagenu? » Larregain: natura eta historia batzen dituen ibilbidea + EUSKAL HERRIKO sagarDOTEGIEN GIDA CRASH!ZAS! BLABLA! RIIIIIING!HernaninJUAS gozatuJOJOJO! KLANG!TXOF!BURRRRRR GGH!JAJAJAeta arduraz jokatuJA!EZ! BLABLABBLABLA! KATAPUM!PSSSS! BURRRGGH!PUNBA! SPLASH!EZ!PLAF! JOJOJOJOJOBUAAAA! 1 ZENBAKIA · SAGARRONDOTIK 3 Unai Agirre “ Bertsolaritza lotzea sagardotegi edo taberna munduarekin, ez da txarra” A paizak ardoarekin lotzen diren bezalaxe lotzen dira bertsoa eta sagardoa. Bi mundu ezberdin, baina elkarri oso lotuta daudenak. Hanka bat mundu banatan du Unai Agirrek. Batetik, Euskal Sagardoa jatorri deiturako koordinatzaile gerentea da eta bestetik, Euskal Herriko Bertsolari Txapelketa Nagusiko finalean aritu da. Orbita horretatik irten gabe bildu gara hernaniarrarekin. dapenaren bigarren uzta izan da. Sagardotegi asko sartu Agin Laburu dira denominazio honetan, Euskal Sagardoan, eta horrek A RGAZKIA: DANI BLANCO poza eman dit. Uzta ona izan da bai Euskal Herriko sagastietan baita Beste uztari dagokionez, orain dela lau urte ia-ia lortu nue- Bertsolari Txapelketa Nagusian ere. na lortu dut oraingoan. Ez neukan obsesio berezirik, bai- na lortu eta gero poza sentitu dut ez nuelako uste aukera Bai. Sagarrarena ez da guk kontrolatzen dugun gauza bat, hori berriz izango nuenik. Txapelketa zihoan bezala ere, ni baina hala izan da. Aurten sagar urtea tokatzen zen; inoiz- nahiko gustura nengoen, baina erabat errematatu gabe ko sagar urterik handiena izan da eta, gainera, jatorri izen- eta bueno, azkenean, gutxien uste nuenean, iritsi egin zen. 4 SAGARRONDOTIK · 1 ZENBAKIA Unai Agirrerekin bertso entrenamenduetan aritu 100 urtean igual bai, zeren eta pentsatu behar dugu guk garenok, ezagutzen dugu Unai telefonotik zintzilik ezagutu ez ditugun sagardotegi haietatik, herriro zeuden etortzen, bertso batzuk bota eta berriz telefonotik sagardotegi haietatik, gainbehera handia etorri zela eta zintzilik joaten. Zein lan egiten du Unaik? suspertu ondorengo sagardotegiak ezagutzen ditugula. Bi gauza nagusi daude suspertze horretan: batetik, hasten N ire lanaren %60 hori izango litzateke. Modu batera edo dira elkarte gastronomiko eta tabernak sagardo demanda bestera eraman liteke, baina nik, normalean, telefonoa eta batekin eta hortik sortzen da txotxa. Sagardoa egiten den ofizina gainean eramaten ditut. Askotan kosta egiten zait lekuetara hura probatzera joaten dira eta horrek produk- deskonektatzea, baina lasaiago hartzen ere badakit aldi zioa igo egiten du taberna eta jatetxeentzat. Eta bigarren berean. Askotan, hitz egitea eta gauzak konpontzea izaten pausoa dator, probatzera joateko ohitura horrek sortzen da nire lanaren parte handi bat. duen girotik. Gaur egun hain famatua den txotx kultura hori: sagardotegietara joan eta sagardoa probatzearena. Jatorri deitura entitate pribatua da, baina izaera publikoa Bere inguruan sortu da kultura gastronomiko bat. Hori da dauka. Horrek zer esan nahi du: jatorri deitura bat sagar- 100 urtean izan den aldaketa handiena. gile eta sagardogileena dela eta, gure kasuan, estatutue- tan ere hala dago onartua. Baina kontseilu arautzaile batek Orain, nire ustez, beste aldaketa potente bat ematen ari da arautzen du hori guztia eta instituzioek (Jaurlaritzak eta sagardo munduan. Jatorri deitura honen bidez berriz ere hiru aldundiek) botorik gabeko parte hartzea daukate or- botilako sagardoa indartu nahi da; jatorri deiturak, gaine- gano horretan. Boto eskubidearen %50a dauka sagargile ra, bertan egindakoa eta kalitatezkoa den produktua du sektoreak eta beste %50a sagardogile sektoreak. Horiena ardatz. Horrek esan nahi du sagasti berriak landatzen ari da jatorri deitura. Nire lana da kontseilu arautzaile horren direla. koordinazioa eramatea. Hori berria al da? Hau ez da berria! Hau da 100 urte atzera Orain dela urte batzuk espero zen puntu honetara egin eta gure historiari heltzea berriz. Lehengo barietatee- iristea sagardo munduan? tara goaz eta lehen egindako lan hori berreskuratzen dugu. Batzuk oso garbi zeukaten eta nik ere hala neukan, hau Eta ikusiko dugun beste gauza bat da abaniko handia za- zela pauso garrantzitsua, sagardoak eman beharra zeuka- balduko zaigula produktuen dibertsifikazioan. Produktu na. 2000. urterako Gipuzkoan eta Bizkaian hasi ziren bil- berriak aterako dira merkatura; jada ari gara ikusten, baina tzen sagardogile batzuk jatorri deitura baten bila. Gauza hau hasi besterik ez da egin, ez du frenorik. bat edo besteagatik ez zen lortu. Gero, Eusko Labela sortu zen, helburutzat izan duena jatorri deitura. Gainera, beste Oinarrira itzultzea beraz, ez da atzera egitea. sagardogile batzuek, ez zeudenak Eusko Labelean, Gore- naketik, interesa azaldu dute jatorri izendapenean. Oinarrira itzultzea da aurrera egitea. Sagardoak behar du bertako lehengaietik abiatu eta hemengoa dena ondo mu- Orduan, galderari erantzunez: bai. Baina egia da, ikusi arte gatua uztea, hau da, bertako barietateekin egiten da berta- ez dagoela ziur esaterik lortuko dela. Orain ikusten da, bi- ko sagardoa. Milaka urtean hemen egon diren barietateak garren uzta dugu eta 47 upategi sartu dira. Asko da! Horrek dira eta horrek esan nahi du onak direla batetik landaketa- esan nahi du bazegoela interesa. rako eta produkziorako, baina horrez gain, gure sagardoa egiteko bereizitako barietateak dira. Horrek produktuari Asko aldatu da sagardo mundua azken 100 urtean? ematen dio behar duen garrantzia. 1 ZENBAKIA · SAGARRONDOTIK 5 Horrez gain, beste abaniko handi bat irekitzen da barietate berdinekin lotu daitekeela. Ni ez naiz bertsolaritza taberna, horien gainean. Balia litezke milaka gauza egiteko, ez ba- sagardotegi… mundu horrekin lotzea txartzat jotzen due- karrik orain ezagutzen dugun sagardo natural modu hau. na. Kontrakoa. Oso ona dela iruditzen zait eta badagoela mundu ilun bat bertsoak berarekin eraman behar duena Horrek ez du esan nahi sagardo hobea izango denik, eta oso ona dena. Horrek ez du esan nahi beste lekuetara edo bai? ireki behar ez denik. Hobea eta txarragoa… nik ez nituzke inoiz hitz horiek era- Bertsolaritzak ere egingo zuen sagardotegiek adina- biliko, baina gurea eta oso ona izango dela bai. Ez da berdi- ko eboluziorik urte hauetan… na hemengo sagar batekin edo kanpoko sagar batekin lan egitea. Hori oso garbi utzi behar da. Gure sagardoa bertako B ai. Bertsolaritzaren eboluzioaren berri badakigu. Hala sagarrez egindakoa da eta ez bakarrik bertan daudelako, ere, pentsatu behar dugu, sagardoak bezalaxe, gure ga- baizik eta urtetan eta urtetan, hemen landu direlako. Uste raia iruditzen zaigula handiena, baina bertsolaritzak eragin dut hori oso garrantzitsua dela. itzela izan du urte askoan, baita mendetan atzera joanda ere. Guk dauzkagun lehenbiziko erreferentziak izan litez- Bertsolaritza sagardoarekin noiztik uztartzen da? ke Etxahunenak, Pernando Amezketarrarenak, Zabalare- nak, Hernanin Txabolategirenak… Pentsa, garai hartako Sagardotegiak ziren garai bateko tabernak. Orduan ez ze- bertsoak guganaino iritsi badira hitzetik hortzera eta ahoz goen tabernarik. Urte askotan hala izan da eta ez bakarrik aho, zein garrantzi zuen bertsolaritzak. Euskaldunaren be- Gipuzkoan. Bizkaian, Araban, Nafarroan eta Ipar Euskal He- larriak beti joan dira bertsoarekin bustita. Eta sagardoare- rrian ere bai. kin berdin. 500 urte atzera egiten badugu, askoz produkzio handiagoa zegoen. Horrek esan nahi du urrezko garaia or- Orduan, egunero samarreko bertso saioak sagardotegie- dukoa zela eta orain ari gara beste garai inportante batera tan ziren eta ez zegoen ez telebistarik, ez irratirik, ez ezer. bueltatzen. Hau ziklikoa da. Garrantzitsuena da bizirik ego- Gainera, ohitura bat bazegoen eta hala iritsi da gure be- tea eta dagokion garaira egokitzea. larrietara: etxetik irteten zirela sagardotegira, normalean sagardoa etortzen zenean kupelak ireki egiten zirelako eta Ze erronka dituzte hemendik aurrera nola batak, sagardo hori bukatu arte ez zelako beste sagardotegi ba- hala besteak? teko kupelik irekitzen. Jendea ez zen hiruzpalau egunean etxera bueltatzen. Asko bertsolariak ziren, joan eta bertso- Sagardoak bere burua berrasmatu eta egokitzen jakin tan egiten zuen jendea. behar du. Uste dut gauza politak egin litezkeela ateak ire- ki egin behar direlako, eta erronkarik handiena da botilan “Gure kolejiyuak, sagardotegiyak” Udarregik bota zuenean, behar duen presentzia izan dezan lortzea. Funtsezkoak dira hori esan nahi zuen. Beti sagardotegian kantatzen zutela. bi gauza: kalitatezkoa eta bertakoa den produktuari inda- Orduan, lotura hori badago. Gaur egun? Gure bertso esko- rra eman beharko zaio eta, bestetik, dibersifikazioa. Diber- la inguruan mantendu da sagardotegira joate hori. sifikatu egin behar da produktua eta bere balorean jarri. Ez dio kalterik egin bertsolaritzari, mundu horrekin Bestalde, uste dut bertsolaritzak oso bide ona daramala eta lotu izanak? garaian garaiko eskaeretara egokitzen joan beharko duela. Zubi lan oso inportantea egiten du, lehengoa galdu gabe N ire ustez ez. Bertsolaritzak zerbait ona badu da mundu ez- gauza berrietara irekita dagoelako beti. n Astez ere eguerdian zabalik Hernanitik autobus zerbitzuak ostiral eta larunbatetan Sagardo naturala urte osoan botiletan salgai LARRE-GAIN IOSU Larre-Gain etxea - Ereñotzu SAGARDOTEGIA 943 555 846 / 616 287 867 629 477 108 6 SAGARRONDOTIK · 1 ZENBAKIA Aitor Etxeandia (Sagarlan)
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