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PHILADELPHIA’S TOP JEWISH FOOD DESTINATIONS On The Menu: Classic Knishes, Brisket Ramen, Za’atar Chicken & Schmaltz Fried Rice
PHILADELPHIA, May 13, 2019 – Philadelphia’s Jewish food scene is a delicious reflection of the city’s Jewish history and modern cravings. Philly has Jewish bakeries that preserve tradition (Kaplan’s, Lipkin’s) and bend rules (Essen, Philly Style Bagels). There are diners that specialize in tried-and-true classics (Famous Fourth Street, Hershel’s East Side) and cutting-edge comfort food (Abe Fisher, Honey’s Sit N Eat). The Israeli food scene is strong, thanks to falafel joints (Goldie, Mama’s Vegetarian), hummus shop Dizengoff and, especially, top James Beard prize-winner, Zahav.
Jewish immigrants first settled in Philadelphia more than 100 years before the Liberty Bell arrived. By 1776, Jewish patriots were joining the Revolutionary War. At the turn of the 20th century, Jewish life in Philadelphia thrived. Small synagogues dotted almost every block in South Philadelphia. Storefront groceries sold dill pickles, challah and kosher meat. Vendors rented pushcarts for 25 cents a day and peddled fabric, spices and salt bagel sticks. Today, the city is home to the National Museum of American History—and an amazing Jewish food scene, embodied in these standout bakeries, delis, street fooderies and destination restaurants:
Bakeries: • Essen Bakery – James Beard Award semifinalist Tova du Plessis draws on her heritage for modern takes on Jewish pastry in her charming South Philadelphia shop. Essen means “to eat” in Yiddish, and Philadelphians are hooked on her chocolate halvah babka, za’atar-spiced challah, black-and-white cookies and made-each-morning bagels, while aficionados go for the moist, delicious honey cake made with grated apples and dark beer. 1437 E. Passyunk Avenue; Piazza Pod Park, 1001 N. 2nd Street, (215) 271-2299, essenbakery.com • Kaplan’s New Model Bakery – In 1919, the smell of freshly baked rye bread from Kaplan’s kosher bakery brought out the bubbies in droves. Northern Liberties’ oldest bakery still uses perpetual sourdough, reserving some from each batch as a starter for the next. The bread menu includes plain, marble rye, black Russian with raisins and a seeded corn rye with a garlic crust. Kaplan’s supplies its rye bread and challah to area restaurants and ships to homesick bread lovers who miss they call the best they’ve ever eaten. 901 N. 3rd Street, (215) 627-5288, kaplansnewmodelbakery.com -more-
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• Lipkin’s Bakery – In the corner of the original Lipkin’s in Northeast Philly, boxes of cookies, mini-Danish and rugelach are stacked six feet high, ready for delivery to area synagogues. The spot has been a neighborhood landmark since 1975. Each day, they bake 14 varieties of flaky mushroom, potato, kasha and white pizza knishes. Locals at both locations go for the babka, challah, hamantaschen, rye and pumpernickel breads, and black-and-white cookies. 8013 Castor Avenue, (215) 342-3005; 2153 S. Hancock Street, (215) 462-1637, lipkinsoriginalbakery.com • Philly Style Bagels – Dough made in small batches, shaped by hand, boiled in Yards beer and baked on wooden planks, create the crunchy crust and chewy interior that attracts lines outside this Fishtown bagelry. Flavors include the usual suspects (sesame, whole wheat, everything) and daily specials (blueberry rye), with schmears such as scallion cream cheese, jalapeño Tofutti and cashew butter. Bon Appétit declared the lox, cream cheese, tomato, cucumber and red onion combo the nation’s best sandwich. 1451 E. Columbia Avenue, phillystylebagels.com
Delis: • Ben & Irv’s – Founded in 1954 in West Oak Lane, Philadelphia, Ben & Irv’s moved to the burbs in 1984 and reestablished itself as a do-it-all family restaurant featuring bagel sandwiches, a kids’ menu, big salads and sandwiches that run the gamut from to New York pastrami to teriyaki chicken breast wraps. There is always plenty of kasha and knishes to go, but also sit-down Passover dinners, chopped liver, sweet kugel and all. 1962 County Line Road, Huntingdon Valley, (215) 355-2000, benandirvs.com • Famous Fourth Street Delicatessen – Each Election Day, Philly’s Democratic politicians (and some Republicans too) come to Famous to schmooze between bites of colossal sandwiches: lean corned beef and pastrami, made in-house. When President Obama showed up, he had the corned beef Reuben with a side of latkes. Famous has been on the same corner since 1923, when 4th Street was the heart of the city’s garment district and Jewish tailors and fabric cutters ducked in for lunch. Borscht, blintzes, kishka and kippered salmon are still being served. 700 S. 4th Street, (215) 922-3274, famous4thstreetdelicatessen.com • Hershel’s East Side Deli – Deep in the heart of the historic Reading Terminal Market, past Amish doughnuts and whole fish on ice, Hershel’s is an authentic Jewish deli that cooks its own corned beef, pastrami and brisket and slices hundreds of pounds of juicy, tender meat for its overstuffed sandwiches. Owner Steven Safern named the place after his uncle, who worked at New York’s legendary Katz’s Deli for years. 51 N. 12th Street, (215) 922-6220, hershelseastsidedeli.com • Honey’s Sit ’n’ Eat – At their busy, rustic diners in Northern Liberties and Graduate Hospital, owner Ellen Mogell and Jeb Woody serve their childhood faves. Hers: challah French toast and Bubby’s brisket sandwich; his: huevos rancheros and fried chicken chipotle Benedict. In other words, Honey’s has reliably stayed true to its owners’ vision of combining her beloved Jewish comfort foods with his Texas roots. 2101 South Street, (215) 732-5130; 800 N. 4th Street, (215) 925-1150, honeyssitneat.com • Hymie’s Deli – When Main Liners need a fish platter, they head to Hymie’s, as they’ve done for more than 60 years. Owners the Barsons, restauranteurs since 1938, bought the deli from its original owner in the mid-’70s. Today, Louis Barson runs the restaurant, overseeing the pickle bar and making sure the lox is sliced thin. Regulars return to nosh on The Schlepper (whitefish salad on a bagel), The Mensch (turkey club) and Mish Mash chicken soup, made with matzoh balls, noodles, rice and kreplach. 342 Montgomery Ave., Merion, (610) 668-3354, hymies.com -more-
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• Koch’s Deli – Virtually unchanged since 1966, University City takeout staple Koch has walls covered with yellowed newspaper clippings, food-stained awards and fraternity accolades. It’s worth the wait in the small space for fresh soft rye with a schmear of spicy mustard surrounding a generous pile of corned beef. Owner Rami Shabbat carries on founder Bob Koch’s traditions by handing out deli samples to grateful, loyal college students who post Instagram photos of double- decker “Penn Specials.” 4309 Locust Street, (215) 222-8662, kochsdeli.com
Israeli Street Food: • Dizengoff – Named for the Tel Aviv street lined with outdoor cafes, Dizengoff is an Israeli hummusiya, drawing lines out the door for its signature creamy, smooth, silky soft chickpea dip that’s swirled in a shallow bowl, drizzled with olive oil and loaded with shredded chicken, pepper walnut, beets or mushrooms. Like nearby Abe Fisher, Federal Donuts, Goldie, The Rooster and Old City’s Zahav, this spot belongs to Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook. 1625 Sansom Street, (215) 867-8181, dizengoffhummus.com • Goldie – This all-vegan, kosher, walkup falafel shop by Steve Cook and Michael Solomonov serves four things: falafel (in a pita or a salad, available in three spice combinations), shawarma- spiced French fries, drinks (sour cherry iced tea, turmeric lime soda) and tehina-based shakes flavored in original sesame, Turkish coffee, mint chocolate or banana. The lunchtime lines are worth the wait. 1526 Sansom Street, (267) 239-0777, goldiefalafel.com • Mama’s Vegetarian – For more than a decade, hungry office workers, students and Center City residents have lined up and waited patiently to get their hands on some delicious, vegan, kosher, Israeli-style falafel. The homemade pita is so soft, it cuddles the falafel patties, and every order comes topped with hummus, tehina sauce, cabbage and toppings bar items of the patron’s choosing. With only a few tables and little elbowroom, many people order lunch to go and eat in nearby Rittenhouse Square. 18 S. 20th Street, (215) 751-0477, mamasfalafel.com
Make-A-Reservation Restaurants: • Abe Fisher – Philadelphia native chef Yehuda Sichel reimagines Eastern European Jewish food in a sleek, snug Center City space without a tchotchke in sight. On the prix-fixe menu, borscht comes as beet tartare, the cholent potpie is made with beef cheeks, and rugelach is savory, filled with salmon, Boursin and caraway seeds, not cinnamon and nuts. A tasting menu offers splurge- worthy choices such as Hungarian duck with schmaltz fried rice and Montreal-style smoked short ribs. 1623 Sansom Street, (215) 867-0088, abefisherphilly.com • Cheu Fishtown – At another international mashup, chef Ben Puchowitz pays homage to Jewish grandmoms, both real and imagined, with Bubbie Chow’s Sliced Beef, a combination of short rib pastrami, beet barbecue sauce and dill pickles tucked into a steamed bao. One version of the house specialty—ramen—comes with brisket, kimchi, sesame red chili broth—and a matzoh ball. 1416 Frankford Avenue, (267)-758-2269, cheufishtown.com • Uzbekistan Restaurant – This Northeast Philly BYOB (bring-your-own-bottle, preferably vodka, to mix with cherry compote) dining room is a destination for traditional Eastern European comfort foods beloved by Ashkenazic Jews. Borsht, stuffed cabbage, and herring share the menu with familiar items listed by their Ukrainian or Polish names, like the vareniki (kreplach), filled with potato or sweet cheese topped with black current jam. Uzbeki lamb shish kebabs are a specialty, as are Georgian chicken stew and Moscow sea bass filet. 12012 Bustleton Avenue, (215) 671-1965, uzbekistan-restaurant-restaurant.business.site -more-
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• Zahav – James Beard Foundation “Outstanding Chef” Michael Solomonov has made a name for Israeli cuisine in the United States, and his first big venue, Old City’s Zahav—named “Outstanding Restaurant” by the James Beard Foundation in 2019—is a vibrant, almost entirely reservations-required homage to his native country. Wood-oven-fired laffa bread, hummus and a spread of salatim are served family-style; meat and vegetable skewers, roasted lamb shoulder with pomegranate molasses and Moroccan eggplant are entree highlights. 237 St. James Place, (215) 625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com
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