THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2017 l REDEYE 10 p d $ p p D B F w p “ b a B too briny,”too , friend’s opinion. her in fter she posted a picture of a Steingold’s a of picture a posted she fter agel stuffed with belly , which was which lox, belly with stuffed agel 22 “overstuffed”)22 Steingold’s, new from a eople harrumphed, “Where’s the beef?” “Where’s the harrumphed, eople Center, North Twitter, in on cafe and eli ($13 Reuben Rube Uncle the or of icture a posting of minutes Within ersonal. astrami and ball soup, none of soup, none ball matzo and astrami acon sandwich at Steingold's. Steingold's. at sandwich acon y Michael Nagrant Michael y eli food, like sex and barbecue, is very is barbecue, and sex like food, eli hich were tasted by the social media social the by were tasted hich A Facebook friend harangued my wife my harangued Facebook friend eat resh meat resh & drink | F OR REDEYE OR m e p l n n s g w r i d iterally religious in origin. Multiple Torah Multiple origin. in religious iterally nfractions. eality. omeone would punch me in the face for face the in me punch would omeone at matzo or unleavened bread. Without unleavened bread. or matzo at old’s T-shirt and sometimes wonderedold’s if T-shirt sometimes and assages describe or command a duty to duty a command or describe assages isparager, were also dismissed for minor isparager, for dismissed were also ary moderate, I’d also like to forward the forward to moderate, like I’dary also ot delivering the Reuben they expected.” they Reuben the delivering ot alk around the neighborhood in a Stein- a in neighborhood the around alk atzo, there is no matzo ball soup. ball matzo no is atzo, there I T “ O On more than a couple occasions, I’d occasions, couple a than more On appreciate these things, but as a culi- a as but things, these appreciate his is not surprising. Some deli food is food deli Some surprising. not is his wner Aaron Steingold confirmed my confirmed Steingold Aaron wner M J t l n a J n s i g t y l aquiles, BTW), and if you’re willing to willing you’re if and BTW), aquiles, ooking through the nostalgic prism of prism nostalgic the through ooking s not even really a . It is in- is It delicatessen. a really even not s ravel that far,ravel that Skokie, Kaufman’s good in o find a bone to pick. But while Stein- while But pick. to bone a find o tead one of the best destination sandwich destination best the of one tead lmost extinct in Chicago. Outside of Man- of Chicago. Outside in extinct lmost ewish deli is rare. is deli ewish cuisine fantastic a made has deli ewish our bubbe’s kitchen window, bubbe’s kitchen our going you’re old’s is inspired by Jewish food culture, it Jewish food by inspired old’s is y’s, Eleven City Diner (excellent chi- Diner City Eleven y’s, otion that such radical religiosity toward religiosity radical such that otion H eat ere’s the thing: If you go to Steingold’s to go you If thing: ere’s the S D TEINGOLD'S IS THE JEWISH JEWISH THE IS TEINGOLD'S ELI OF THE FUTURE THE OF ELI a S o U f t d s ★ 1 A S R rom Vienna or Ginsberg from Detroit’s from Ginsberg or Vienna rom 840 W. Road, Park 840 773-661-2469 Irving own use factory or corned or pastrami factory use own hops in Chicago, something we have we a Chicago, something in hops nd add sauerkraut from a bag or can. or bag a from sauerkraut add nd wiss, which is melted only if you’re lucky, you’re if only melted is which wiss, n dry seeded rye bread with a slice of slice a with bread rye seeded dry n TEINGOLD’S earth of. earth EVIEW ND CAFE ND nited Meat and Deli. They tend to pile it pile to tend They Deli. Meat and nited ★★ C onsider the Reuben. Most folks around Most Reuben. folks the onsider DELICATESSEN REDEYE l THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2017 11 ou will not find members of the politi- f you are a deli purist plagued by nostal- I Y anny’s. Theanny’s. interior features a mid- ichael Nagrant isichael a freelancer. Nagrant RedEye ottom line ottom he room he hites and blacks complemented by mod hat looks like a mansard-roofed clock eon sign at Steingold's. eporters unannounced visit restaurants eaven. oldovers from when the space was a eriod piece vibe. teingold’s an idiosyncratic Woody Allen anteingold’s idiosyncratic Woody nd meals paid are for by RedEye. ia, suspend your disbelief and you will be al machine at as Steingold’s you do at entury modern palette of steel grays, includingreperie, a street lamppost and tyle chairs. There are also a couple decor ewarded with lip-smacking deli Jewish of est of the space, they also kind of give he If future. you’re just looking for good ulip-style seats and cool plastic folding- Though slightly at oddsower. with the ood, is Steingold’s destination sandwich N g r t f h M R a c M c w t s h c w t r S p B T he only liquids (and really the only T as in the background while I interviewed im for this piece, and she heartily agreed ense, and the broth is rich, soulful and o not soothe my primal desire for good ld-fashioned wife . Steingold’s n this count. suggested He they were ctually bow tie pasta, which, while cute, hicken broth is more golden and it, wampy due to a serious (chicken hings at I Steingold’s) take issue with are he soups ($7). The matzo ball is light, not needsoo, more salt. The noodles ($6) are at) infusion, but it needs more salt. The ooking into changing this. t t d s f c t a d o w h o l here is a full selection Brown’s of Dr. here’s anhere’s ($4) which too, T T rinks, soups and dessert and soups rinks, ater like It’s replacing traditional seltzer. good case as a roe delivery mechanism ilsen-friendly twist, Topo Chicoilsen-friendly mineral twist, Topo -bet chocolate syrup and milk, and in a astrami spiced trout.astrami teingold's soup. nd the nutty sweetness of parsnip—make ontains neither egg nor cream, but Fox’s odas ($3), a including celery- Cel Ray, oft drinks of all time. oo. lavored poplavored I consider one of the greatest izzy chocolate milk. a a t D s f s c u P w f S P aviar serviceaviar is If you also available. he tartine ($6)—an open-faced sand- here’s alsohere’s nothing to kvetch about if arely does beef In lose fact, to turkey. teingold’s pastrami isteingold’s Snake River f any single dish will raise the Jewish t should be noted that the ($2) T I R T S C I hile purists demand atonement, I will uch as she liked the Reuben, my wife odernist painting. ich of creamy, smokyich whitefish of sprin- creamy, hich is sweeter and bit has thinner, an ay.” This is not a prom nightay.” but promise, ish ew York and . But Bagelmy and gold Bialy. ew York orean sister-in-law. hicago, Ihicago, will buy you the most expensive bagel smeared with whipped cream uffles potato chip. However, Steingold’s uffles potato However, chip. ill kimchi and Chinese in be- eli purist hackles, it’s the Sister-In-Law ale farms olive oil and herb-rubbed tur- airing. elightful glistening fat and peppery 18 for an portion, overstuffed named arms wagyu beef smoked for six hours e nominating Steingold for the highest uying turkey in of favor Southern coun- uite measure up to that standard. ubbles, is just fine. I long have believed rder of hasidism or saintliness for pairing n Thanksgiving, I generally have stopped f Russian dressing and stuffed in between f pre-fixe offerings, Alinea’s with wine led with everything spice, tiny tufts of dill f protein, (the silky belly lox, $12, is best), tern, aka The Bagel Chef, are good, prob- ey, fiery espelette cole- pepper-spiked ey, old’s lusciousold’s pastrami with house-made olden . r), which features house-roasted Fern- astern yogurt), topped with your choice ou order the Classic the Steingold’s “all nd pastrami spice in honor of his actual fter Steingold’s 100-year-old grandmoth- fter 100-year-old Steingold’s nyone can find me a better Reuben in nd rubbed with a proprietary blend of nd crisp peppery rafts of radish—skews irier chew. Steingold’s bagel Steingold’s does not irier chew. bly better than other major local option t made Steingold’s by a dude named Max re a baller, therere are a $100+ baller, options, but aramelized on the griddle, a lustrous lick heese that has a bright zippy note from a apers and zingy pickle scrims. andwich ($13), which dares to pair Stein- law, bubbly Havarti and bubbly two slices Havarti of law, pices. The beef shaved is slicked with tandard is the honey boiled and wood- ween the shattering bark of a baguette. ry hams and standing rib But roasts. as wo pieces of dark Publican rye bread. If angy sauerkraut, Swiss cheese with edges raditional in flavor, but looksraditional a in little flavor, like a ouch of sour cream and labneh (Middle- he $20 trout big roe, salty orange, roe hat the best for conveyance is caviar a ermented kimchi fizz, searing mustard ired bagel Montreal from St-Viateur, ost it over the Grandma Rachel ($10 or atkes—crisp circles stuffed with potato uices. This meat is with crowned smoked F f a K d t W b o d s g b t m l $ a e d k s g o t a C o p F a s d j t c o w k a t m w a q a N s f a S a c t e o c y w a t b t R l