INSIDE THE JEWISH – Revised Index

Illustration pages in bold . assimilation, 92 A Bintel Brief (advice column), 7 asthma, baker's, 9 Abraham, 20 Auld Lang Syne, 141 Abramowicz, Hirsz, 63 , 4, 22 acids, 59, 61, 126 autolysis of , 98 advertising, influence on food habits, 10 affordable baked goods, 9 , 9, 125–26, 128 Aleichem, Sholom, 33–34, 106, 215 Babka , 163–64 , 91 Loaf Babka, 164–65 Almond Buns, 128, 152–53 Ring Babka, 165 Almond Filling, 255 Ukranian versus Jewish, 2 Almond Horns, recipe 232–34, 244 bacteria, beneficial, 61 Almond Horns, 244 , 94 Almond , 256 bagel makers, 92–93 Rainbow , 223–24 bagelmaking machine, 93 , 91 bagels, xi, 6, 58, 91–104, 106 altes or altus (stale added to dough), 59, almond, 91 205 in America, 91–92, 94 American Cookery , 126 bakeries, 94 Americanization, impact on Jewish bakeries, 10 , 95 Anatevka, 1 black, 91 appetizing stores, x, 108 boards and burlap, 94 boiling, 92, 95, 98 Apple Crumb Buns, 128 breadlike, 93–94 Apple Filling, 257 chain outlets, 94 Apple , 149–50 , 95–96 Aunt Lillian's Apple , 182–83 in Eastern Europe, 91 , 140 eggs and in bagels, 91 Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz, The , 100 to flip or not, 95 apricot frozen, 93 Apricot Filling, 258 hand rolling, 93 Apricot Roll, 201 and, 128 Apt (Opatów), , 92, 106 machine made, 94 Arnold Bakeries (Levy's Jewish ), 58 mass produced, 10 Aronson, Sammy, 8 milk and eggs in, 91 artisan . see , artisan , 93 ash content of flour, 16 , 98–104

Egg Bagels, , 103–4 of Greater New York and New Jersey, 92– Montreal Bagels (free), 100–102 93, 96, 107 Twisted Krakover Beyglach ( Obwarzanki in New York, N.Y., 7 Krakowski) , 100 status, 2, 174 Water Bagels, Classic New York, 98–100 uniforms, xi round bottoms, 95 working conditions, 9 salt, 93 baker's asthma, 9 saltfree, 101 baker's percentages, 13–14 , 93 baker's wife, Kraków, 2 shaping, 96–98 Bakery, Confectionary and Tobacco Workers in supermarkets, 94 International Union Local 3, 93 Baker, Harry, 196 Bakery , 26–27 bakeries, x, x, 94 bakery cookies, 141, 209–10 in cellars, 8–9 baking methods, 58 Coney Island Bagels & Bialys, 107, 122 , 126 Crystal Bakery, 9 baking schedule for Shabbes, 25 display counters. see display cases and counters baking soda, 126 Don's, 41 baking tradition, , xi Entenmann's, 58 balabos (bagel making crew chief), 92 Fairmount, 100, 107 bar mitzvahs, 10, 41 Gertel's, 10 barches, 25. see also kosher, 58 medieval, 25 Kossar's Bialys, 107, 122 Rich Barches, 28–30 Kramer's, 113 , 2, 15, 17, 21, 56–57 Louis Lichtman's, 10, 147 Barley Bread ( Gershtnbroyt ), 87–89 used by housewives, 23 in the Torah, 87 Pratzel's, 76 Bassevi, Jacob, von Treuenberg, 2 premade goods for, 11 bat mitzvahs, 10, 41 and prosperity, 9 formulas, 12 Royal Bagel, 92 Bear Claws, 128–29, recipe 161–62 Royale Kosher Bake Shop, 10 bedikas chometz (the search for leaven), 244 Schaefer's, 113 tongue on rye, 72 schedule, 82–85 beet , 126 Silber's Bakery, ii beets, 9 St. Viateur, 100, 107 rosl (fermented beet brine), 56 staff, xi Belarus, 24, 57 working conditions, 9 Divin, 6 bakers Volozhin, 125 labor unions benefits of eating bread, Talmudic, 21 Local 3, Bakery, Confectionary and Tobacco Bernbach, William, 58 Workers International Union, 93 Berry or Cherry Filling, 260 Local 338, International Beigel Bakers Union Better Homes & Gardens , 196

Bezalel, Judah Loew ben, 3 braided , 22. see also challah Eaters, The , 122 braiding instructions, 38 Bialys ( Bialystoker ), xi, 121–24, recipe challah twist, 39 123–24 double knot rolls, 40 Bialystok, Poland, 4, 6, 121–22 fivestrand braid, 49–50 Nazis murder in, 122 high fourstrand braid, 47–48 Bible, bread in the, 20. see also Torah low fourstrand braid, 45–46 Bintel Brief, A (advice column), 7 New Year's onestrand challah ( shtrayml Bird, Alfred, 126 koyletch ), 38 birkas hamazon (grace after meals), 2, 21 sixstrand (bakery) braid, 51–53 , Jewish ( Kamishbroyt ), 240 threestrand braid, 43–44 Black and White Cookies, 108, 125, 127, 141, 178, twostrand braid, 42 recipe 221–22 Braudel, Fernand, 2, 87 black bagels, 91 bread, 8 Black Bread ( Razeve Broyt ), 57, 63–66, 105. see bakers, 174 also ; Rye Breads in the Bible, 20 95% rye sourdough bread, 57 blessing over bread ( hamotzi ), 2 recipe, 64–66 definition, 21 bleached flour, 16 flour. see flours, bread blended (highratio cakes), 188 hierarchy, 106 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 Kabbalah on, 21 150 Percent Cake, 190–91 mass produced, 10 Checkerboard Cake, 127, recipe 191–92 in medieval diet, 2 blessing over bread ( hamotzi ), 2, 21, 41 ovens, 57 blintzes, 9 proofing, 110 Blitz Puff , 137–39 purity of, 2 Closed Pockets, 142–44 recipes. see breads Open Pockets, 142 reverence for, 20 blogs, 278–79 sanctification of ( efrashas challah ), 22 blueberry buns ( shtritslekh ), 106 signifies a meal, 2 Blumenthal, Nachman, 105 the size of an , 2, 21 boards and burlap, 94 in the Torah, 20 Boboli, 58 Bread Givers , 7 boiling bagels, 92, 95, 98 breadlike bagels, 93–94 versus lye or baking soda, 98 breadmachine , 19 "Bontsha Shvayg" ("Bontsha the Silent"), 106–7 breads Book of Kings, 20 Austrian, 8 Borchov (Borszczow), Ukraine, 106 braided, 22. see also braiding instructions; Bordeaux wine, 21 challahs , 56 dark, 2 Boston, Mass., 92, 105 German, 8 Bow Ties ( Eier Kichelach ), 127, recipe 237–38 Hungarian, 8

onion (pletslach), 106 , Chocolate, 272 Polish, 8 recipes , 9 95% rye sourdough bread, 57 , 2, 9, recipe 150 Barley Bread ( Gershtnbroyt ), 87–89 Cahan, Abraham, 7 Black Bread ( Razeve Broyt ), 57, 63, recipe cake bakers, 174 64–66, 105. see also Pumpernickels; Rye cake crumbs, 127, 205–6 Breads cake flour, 18 challah. see challahs cake mix, 172 Corn Rye ( Kornbroyt) , 57, recipe 72–74 cake sold by the pound, 193 light rye. see rye breads cake yeast, 18 Polish Bread ( Poylner cakes, 58 Kartoffelbroyt ), 86 baking, 172 pumpernickel. see pumpernickels , 5, 126–27 rye. see rye breads 100% Cheese , 203–4 Bread ( Vinnerbroyt ), 111 cherry, 202 rolls. see rolls libum (Roman), 202 Russian, 8 New York style, 202 , 86 Passover, 245 wedding, 22 Cheesecake, 204–5 wheat, 6 chiffon cakes, 9, 125, 127, 196, 196 white, 10, 86 Apricot Roll, 201 breadseller in Bialystok, Poland, 6 Chocolate , 199 breaking short dough, 215 Chocolate Roll, 200–201 Brenner, Paul, 92 Golden Chiffon Cake, 197 bris (circumcision ceremony) Jelly Roll, 201 given, 91 mixing instructions, 200 Brodsky family, 33 Orange Chiffon Cake, 198 Bronx, N.Y., ix, 9 , 201 Brooklyn, N.Y., ix, 9 combination cakes, 193 buckwheat, 15, 56–57 Wonder Cake, xi, 127, 194–95 buns, 105 components, 125 bulkes (bulkies). see Kaiser Rolls creamed cakes, 173 buns Aunt Lillian's , 182–83 Almond Buns, 128, 152–53 Cake ( ), 10, 125, 127, 140, apple crumb, 128 recipe 175–77 blueberry ( shtritslekh ), 106 Cake ( Flomenkuchen ), 180 Bun Dough, 151–52 , 126, recipe 177–78 Buns, 129, 153 Sour Cream Cake, 181–82 filled Buns, 129, 154 Wine Cake, 178–80 Horseshoes, 128–29, recipe 155–56 crumbs, 127, 205–6 Buttercream, 271 , 178

frozen, 172 eggs and in, 23 , 5 eightdollar, 54–55 highratio (blended) cakes, 188 home baked, 24 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 New Year's challah ( shtrayml koyletch ), 25, 38, 150 Percent , 190–91 38 , 140 Checkerboard Cake, 127, recipe 191–92 origin, 22 honey cakes. see Lekach ; Passover Honey Cake pan, 25, 53–54, 193 honeyginger cakes, 5 Polishstyle, 25 layer cakes, 9 in, 23, 37 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 recipes 150 Percent Chocolate Cake, 190–91 Bakery Challah, 26–27 Seven, 185 , 187–88 Eggless Water Challah, 25, recipe 35–36 sold by the pound, 193 Honey Whole Wheat Challah, 25, recipe 31– 32 sponge cakes, x, 9, 125, 127, 183–84 Rich Sourdough Barches, 28–30 Baking Powder , 186–87 Sweet and Rich Challah, 33–34 Basic Sponge Cake, 184–85 rolls ( kolitchen ), 106 Passover Sponge Cake, 253–54 baking, 41 SevenLayer Cake, 185 , 187–88 double knot rolls, 40, 40 troubleshooting, 207–8 Russianstyle, 25 Call It Sleep , 6 in, 23 canapés, 141 section (pan), 25, 53–54, 193 candies, 5 shapes, 25, 37 Color, 81 sixbraid, 20, 22–23 , 25 carbon dioxide, 126 sourdough, 23, 28–30 Catherine II, The Great, Empress of ,, 4 sweet, 25 Catholic mass, 20 twelvestrand, 54–55 CatholicProtestant warfare, 3 twists, 41 , 107, 141 Cato (Roman orator), 202 Charles V, 3 celebration challahs. see challahs, celebration russe, x celebration with baked goods, 2 Chasidic neighborhoods, 127 cellar bakeries, 92 Chasidism, 3, 106 centers of learning, 3 Checkerboard Cake, 127, recipe 191–92 centrality of food, 8 cheese, x, 63 chain outlets, 94 beygelach (). see Rugelach challahs, 6, 10, 22–56, 58, 105 Cheese Filling, 259 from bakeries, 25 and fruit strudel, 149–50 bakery production, 25 cheesecakes, 5, 126–27 braiding instructions. see braiding instructions 100% Cheesecake, 203–4 celebration, 54–55 cherry, 202 centrality to Shabbes table, 23 libum (Roman), 202 decoration of, 22 New York style, 202 double knot rolls, 40, 40

Passover Cheesecake, 245 CinnamonSugar Filling, 261 Sour Cream Cheesecake, 204–5 sticks, 129 chemical leavening, 126 cleaning a bakery for passover, 243–44 chemistry, 12 Closed Pockets, 128–29, 142, recipe 143–44 cherry closure of bakeries, 10 cheesecake, 202 cloverleaf rolls, 107 Cherry or Berry Filling, 260 coalburning ovens, 8 pie, 140 coarse meal, 21 , Ill., 58, 92 rye, 18 chicken farms, Jewishowned, 26 cocktail rye, 141 chiffon cakes, 9, 125, 127, 196, 196 coconut pie, 140 Apricot Roll, 201 Coconut , Passover, 245–46 Chocolate Chiffon Cake, 199 coffee cakes, 108 Chocolate Roll, 200–201 Dough, 156–57 Golden Chiffon Cake, 197 Russian Coffee Cake, xi, 126, 128–29, recipe Jelly Roll, 201 167–68 mixing instructions, 200 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 181–82 Orange Chiffon Cake, 198 coffee rings, 125–26, 128 Swiss Roll, 201 Danish Coffee Ring, 135–36 children in shops, ix–x Plain Coffee Ring, 129, recipe 157–59 chilling dough to autolyze gluten, 98 Colonial Corners Bake Shoppe, West , Ca., 93 Chinese Cookies, 125, 141, recipe 224–25 coloring agents in pumpernickel, 57 Chinese neighborhoods, 8 combination cakes, 193 Chmielnitski, Bogdan, 3 commercial bakeries, 25–26, 108. see also chocolate, 128, 190–91 bakeries 150 Percent Chocolate Cake, 190–91 commercial baking from one dough, 108 Chocolate Buttercream, 272 commercials, 10 Chocolate Chiffon Cake, 199 Coney Island Bagels & Bialys (bakery), 107, 122 Chocolate Filling, 258–59 cookies, x, 9, 141 Chocolate Fudge , 274 Almond Horns, 232–34, 244 Chocolate Roll, 200–201 beygelach , cheese (rugelach). see Rugelach enrobing, 273–74 Black and White Cookies, 108, 125, 127, 141, filling, 258–59 178, recipe 221–22 roll, 200–201 Chinese Cookies, 125, 141, recipe 224–25 Semisweet Chocolate Ganache, 273 Coconut Macaroons, Passover, 245–46 chometz (leaven), 21, 243–44 , 210 Christians, 22 123 Dough, 214–15 cookies, 141 breaking, 215 cinnamon Cream Cheese Dough, 213 Cinnamon Buns, 129, 153 Passover Short Dough, 246–47 Cinnamon Pershings, 170 Sour Cream Dough, 212 Cinnamon Ring, 128

Standard Short Dough, 211 counter display. see display cases and counters, x French Cookies, 141, recipe 228–29 crackers, 105 Hamantashen, 215–16 cream cheese, 108 Honey Balls ( Tayglech ), 235–36 100% Cream Cheese Cheesecake, 203–4 JamFilled MiniPockets, 219 Cream Cheese Dough, 213 Kamishbroyt (Jewish Biscotti), 240 Philadelphia Cream Cheese, 216 Kichelach , 6, 9, 237 cream of tartar, 126 Bow Ties ( Eier Kichel ), 237–38 Cream Puffs/Eclairs, Passover, 248 Onion Kichel, 238–39 creamed cakes. see cakes, creamed kipfel . see Rugelach creaming method, 173 Lace Cookies (Florentines), 141, recipe 231–32 Crumb Buns, 128–29 Linzer Cookies, 125, 141, recipe 220–21 crumbs, cake, 127, 205–6 Mandelbroyt, 241–42, 247 crust on bagels, 95–96 Passover Mandelbroyt, 250–51 Crystal Bakery, 9 MiniPockets, JamFilled, 219 cultures, sour. see sour cultures; sourdough Mini, 218–19 cupcakes, 178 Mirror cookies, 247 Custard Filling, 261–62 Mohn Bars ( Seed Cookies), 234 Oreos, 10 Danish Coffee Ring, 128–29, recipe 135–37 Passover Short Dough, 246–47 Danish Dough, 131–33, 162 Cookies (Mohn Bars), 234 Danish Open Pockets, 134–35 Rainbow Cookies, 223–24 Danish , x, 108, 125–26, 128 Rugelach, 216–17. see also Rugelach day in a bakery, 81–82 rum balls, 127 death, slow, of Yiddish culture, 3 Sandwich Cookies, 127, 141, recipe 226–27 decreasing recipes, 12 short doughs, 210 delis, 10 123 Dough, 214–15 destruction of the Temple, 22 breaking, 215 Diaspora, 22 Cream Cheese Dough, 213 diet of bread, and , 7 Passover Short Dough, 246–47 diet of poor, 56 Sour Cream Dough, 212 dietary laws, 1–2 Standard Short Dough, 211 , Hasia, 9 Sour Cream Spritz Cookies, 141, recipe 230–31 Dioś, 128–29 stenciled leaf, 141 disappearance of Jewish bakeries, 10 Corn Rye ( Kornbroyt) , 57, recipe 72–74 display cases and counters, x, 127–28 on rye, 60, 72 Silber's Bakery, ii cornmeal, 18 Divin, Belarus, 6 crust on . see Corn Rye ( Kornbroyt ) divine grace, bread as embodiment of, 20 polenta, Romanian ( mamaliga ), 18 Don, Sam, 41 cornstarch glaze, 63 Don's Bakery (Philadelphia, Pa.), 41 Cossack revolt, Ukrainian, 3 donuts. see Council of Four Lands ( Va'ad Arbeh Artzes ), 3 double knot rolls, 41, 107, 109 , 141

double portion of manna, 22 yolks, frozen, 26 dough eggs and milk in bagels, 91 boxes, 7 Eier Kichelach (Bow Ties), 127, recipe 237–38 conditioners, 94 eightdollar challah, 54–55 development, 108 Elephant Ears (Palm Leaves), 128–29, recipe divider, mechanical, 107 145–46 enriched, 105, 110–11 emmer, 21 formulas, 12 endosperm, wheat, 16 mixing tub, 7 enriched dough, 105 presses (fermented dough), 25, 107 Entenmann's Bakery, 58 recipes, 7 equiment sources, 277–78 Babka Dough, 163–64 Europe, Yiddish, 1 Bun Dough, 151–52 European rye breads, 17. see also rye breads Coffee Cake Dough, 156–57 everlasting covenant (12 loaves), 20, 23 Danish Dough, 131–33, 162 Light Enriched (Medium Vienna) Dough, Fairmount Bakery (Montreal), 100, 107 111–12 meat, 21 Medium Enriched (Medium Vienna) Dough, Father Knows Best , 10 110 fathers, x–xi Strudel Dough, 147 Feldman, Wolfe, 79 Sweet Egg Dough, 109 ferfel (pasta), 4 doughnuts, 141 fermented dough (presses), 25, 107 Cinnamon Pershings, 170 fiction, Yiddish, 7 Honey Glaze for Doughnuts, 171 "Fiddle, The," 106 Jelly Doughnuts ( Sufganiyot ), 170 Fiddler on the Roof , 1 Jelly , 170 filled buns, 128 YeastRaised Doughnuts ( Krapfen ), 168–70 round, 129 Doyle Dane Bernbach (advertising agency), 58 filled pastries, 125–26, 128 Drubnin, Poland, 121 fillings Almond Filling, 255 Eclairs/Cream Puffs, Passover, 248 Almond Paste, 256 efrashas challah (sanctification of bread), 22 Apple Filling, 257 Egg Bagels, New York, 103–4 Filling, 148 , x Apricot Filling, 258 egg wash, 25 Cheese Filling, 259 Eggless Water Challah, 25, recipe 35–36 Cherry or Berry Filling, 260 eggs Chocolate Filling, 258–59 bread. see challah Filling, 261 and in bagels, 93 Custard Filling, 261–62 size, 12 Filling, 267–68 wash, 25 Filling, 262 by weight, 12 Mohn (Poppy Seed Filling), 234, 263

Onion Fillings, 263–65 frozen cakes, 172 Pineapple Filling, 266 fruit pastries. see filled pastries; fillings Prune Filling (Lekvar), 267 fruit tarts, 9 Filling, 267–68 Fruitfilled Buns, 128–29, recipe 154 filtered water, 61 Fuchs, Daniel, 22 finishing techniques, 12 fudge icing first American cookbook, 126 Chocolate Fudge Icing, 274 first clear flour, 16, 18 Fudge Icing, 275 Five Grains, The, 21 floden (pastries), 2, 125–26. see also pastries Gaidamaks (Ukrainian guerillas), 3 Flomenkuchen (), 180 Galician immigrants, 8 Florentines (Lace Cookies), 141, recipe 231–32 Ganache, Semisweet Chocolate, 273 flourishing of Yiddish culture, 1 , rubbing corn rye with, 72 flours, 15–16 gebatlt broyt (55% rye sourdough bread), 57 allpurpose, 18 , 10 artisan, 123 General Mills, 196 ash content, 16 Genesis, 20 basic pantry list, 18 George Weston, Ltd. (maker of Levy's Jewish bleaching, 16 rye), 58 bread, 18 German neighborhoods, 8 cake, 18 GermanHungarian challah, 25 first clear, 16, 18 , 22 light rye, 57. see also rye Prussia, 4 organic wholegrain flour, 61 Regensburg (Ratisbon), 22 pastry, 18 Rothenburg, 22 patent, 16 Speyer, 22 Polish, 123 Gershtnbroyt (Barley Bread), 86–89 potassium bromate in, 16 Gertel's (bakery), 10 protein content, 16 ginger cake bakers, 126 rye. see rye flours , 126 Sandomierz winter wheat, 123 glazes , 18 cornstarch for rye bread, 63 straight, 16 Honey Glaze for Doughnuts, 171 unbleached, 16 Gluckstern's (restaurant), 9 food merchants, 2, 4 gluten, 60 in New York, N.Y., 8 autolysis gluten, 98 formulas, baker's, 11 formation, 108 Forverts (Forward), 7 in rye, 17 Four Lands, Council of ( Va'ad Arbeh Artzes ), 3 God's command to bake bread, 20 French cookies, 141, recipe 228–29 Golden Age of Jewish Baking in America, 58 fressers, Bialystoker kuchen , 121 Golden Chiffon Cake, 197 frozen bagels, 93 Goldene Medina, Dos (the Golden Land), 7, 10,

92 on Fridays, 6 Good Housewife's Jewel, The , 130 homemade bread, 11 Goodman, Matthew, 95 honey, 25, 176–77 Gorenstein, Lillian, 113 brown sugar as substitute, 10 grace after meals ( birkas hamazon ), 2, 21 Honey Balls (Tayglech ), 235–36 grains, hierarchy of, 21 Honey Cake ( Honig Lekach ), 10, 125, 127, 140, grams, measurements in, 13 recipe 175–77 grandmothers shopping with children, ix Honey Coating for Tayglech , 236 Great Immigration, 7 Honey Glaze for Doughnuts, 171 greengrocers, ix Honey Whole Wheat Challah, 31–32 Greenstein, George, 59 molasses as substitute, 10 griskelekh (buckwheat cakes), 5 honeyginger cakes, 126, 175 Grodno, Russia, 7 Honig Lekach (Honey Cake), 10, 125, 127, 140, recipe 175–77 gumminess in rye bread, 60 horns

Almond Horns, 232–34, 244 Haidamaks (Ukrainian guerillas), 3 Poppy Horns, 107, recipe 116–17 hallot . see challah Horseshoes (buns), 128–29, recipe 155–56 Hamantashen, 125, 215–16 housewives, 6 hamotzi (blessing over bread), 2, 21, 41 Hungarian Filled Rolls, 147, recipe 160 hand rolling bagels, 93 Hungarian immigrants, 8 Hanukah, 140 Hungarian walnut and poppy rolls, 127 Hapsburg Austria, 4 hunger, 23 hard rolls. see Kaiser Rolls hard wheat, 16, 21 icings Harlem (New York, N.Y.), 9 Buttercream, 271 Hazelnut or Walnut filling, 267–68 Chocolate Buttercream, 272 hermit cookies, 127 Chocolate Fudge Icing, 274 herring, 108 Semisweet Chocolate Ganache, 273 Hester Street, 8 Simple Icing, 270 High Holy Days, challah for ( shtrayml koyletch ), 25, 38, 140 Simple , 146, recipe 269 highgluten flour, 18, 123 Vanilla Fudge Icing, 275 highratio (blended) cakes, 188 identity, Jewish, xi 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 immigrants, 8 150 Percent Chocolate Cake, 190–91 immigrants' food, 107 Checkerboard Cake, 127, recipe 191–92 immigration to , 7 holiday breads, 22 in Eastern Europe, 91 holidays and bakeries, 140–41 increasing recipes, 12 holy books, 20 ingredients holy communion, 20 sources, 277–78 Holy Roman , 3 and taste, xi home baking, 58 International Beigel Bakers Union of Greater New

York and New Jersey Local 338, 92–93, 96, 103, KirshenblattGimblett, Barbara, 91 107 kitchen Judaism, 22 Irish neighborhoods, 8 klezmer, 18 Isserlein, Rabbi Ben Petahiah, 18, 28 kneading, 11 Isserles, Moses ben Israel, 3 kneading tubs, 25 Italian neighborhoods, 8 knishes, 2, 9, 150 knysz , 2 JamFilled MiniPockets, 219 kohanim (Temple priesthood), 22 Jan III Sobieski, King of Poland, 91–104 kolitchen (challah dough rolls), 106 jelly Kornbroyt (Corn Rye), 57, recipes 72–74 Jelly Doughnuts ( Sufganiyot ), 170 kosher, 10 Jelly Roll, 201 bakeries, 58 Jelly Tarts, 170 meat, 107 Talmud, 21 salt, 19 , 20 Kossar's Bialys (bakery), 107, 122 Jewish history Internet resources, 279–80 koyletch , Jewish, 2. see also challahs Jewish law, 21 Krakover Beyglach, Twisted ( Obwarzanki Krakowski) , 100 American, 15 Kraków, Poland, 2, 91 Levy's, 58 Kramer's Bakery (New York, N.Y.), 113 mass produced, 10 Krapfen (YeastRaised Doughnuts), 168–70 recipes. see rye breads ( kreplekh ), 9 Josel of Rosheim (Joseph ben Gershon), 3 sweet fried, 125 Judah Loew ben Bezalel, of Prague, 3 kuchen (soft rolls), 106

Kabbalah on bread, 21 labor unions Kabbalism, 3 Local 3, Bakery, Confectionary and Tobacco Kaiser Rolls ( bulkes , Bulkies, pleated rolls), 10, Workers International Union, 93 89, 105–6, 120 , 141 Local 338, International Beigel Bakers Union of recipe, 117–20 Greater New York and New Jersey, 92–93, 96, 107 shaping by hand, 118–19 Lace Cookies (Florentines), 141, 231–32 Kamishbroyt (Jewish Biscotti), 240 lactic acid, 59 varnitches, 9 pastries. see Danish; kashrus (food rules), 243 landsmanshaftn (mutual aid societies), 8 Kaye, Izzy, 93 Lankin, Joe, 41 kharmushke (light rye paste), 57 layer cakes, 9, 125. see also cakes Kichelach, Kichel , 6, 9, 237 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 Bow Ties ( Eier Kichel ), 237–38 150 Percent Chocolate Cake, 190–91 Onion Kichel, 238–39 SevenLayer Cake, 185 , 187–88 King Arthur Flour, 12 layered pastries, 125. see also puff pastry Kings, Book of, 20 learning, centers of, 2 kipfel . see Rugelach

Leave It to Beaver , 10 machine made bagels, 94 leaven, seach for ( bedikas chometz ), 244 Madison Avenue, 58 leavening, chemical, 126 Main, The (Montreal Jewish neighborhood), 100 leaves, wrapping dough in, 57 Makoś (Hungarian roll), 128–29 Lebedeff, Aaron, 18 mamaliga (Romanian polenta), 18 Lekach (Honey Cake), 10, 125, 127, 140, recipe Mandelbroyt, 241–42, 247 175–77 Passover Mandelbroyt, 250–51 Passover Honey Cake, 249–50 Manhattan (New York, N.Y.), 10 Lekvar (Prune Filling), 267 manna, 22–23 Lemon Filling, 261–62 marble rye, 57–58, recipe 80 Lender, Murray, 93–94 markets, 5 Leviticus, 20 jugglers, beggars, etc., 5 Levy, Henry S., 58 Lódz, Poland, 5 "Levy's real Jewish rye" ad campaign, 58 pickpockets, 5 libum (Roman cheesecake), 202 mashed potato , 150 Lindy's (restaurant), 202 (rabbi enforcing food rules), 243 Linzer Cookies, 125, 141, recipe 220–21 mass produced baked goods, 10 liquor, 21 massproduction Lithuania bagels, 93–94 bread baking, 56–57 cakes, 172 Trishik, 91 rye bread, 76 Vilna, 3–4 , 244 Lithuanian immigrants, 8 Maximilian I, 3 on rye, 60 McDonald's bagel, 94 Loaf Babka, 164–65 meal, legal definition of based on bread, 21 Local 3, Bakery, Confectionary and Tobacco meals (grain) Workers International Union, 93 coarse, 18 Local 338, International Beigel Bakers Union of rye, 17–18 Greater New York and New Jersey, 92–93, 96, 103, 107 measurements, 13 Lódz, Poland, 5 meat Loew, Judah, ben Bezalel, of Prague, 3 consumption Lombardo, Guy, 141 in America, 130 Lou G. Siegel (restaurant), 9 and prosperity, 9 Louis Lichtman's (bakery), 10, 147 turnovers, 2 (New York, N.Y.), 7–8 mechanical mixers, 25 lox (smoked fish), x, 108 medieval barches, 25 lox and bagels, 128 medieval diet Lublin, Poland, 4 bread, 2 Luther, Martin, 3 Meir of Rothenburg, Rabbi, 2 lye, 126 memory ( z'chor ), xi mesnagdim (nonChasidic orthodox Jews), 106 Messiah, False (Shabtai Tzvi), 3

metric measurement, 13 NishriBerkovich, Shoshana, 125 milk and eggs in bagels, 91 nobility , 140 first Yiddishspeaking, 2 MiniSchnecken, 218–19 protection of Jews by, 3 miracle of loaves and fishes, precursor to in , 9 Prophets, 20 Norm's Eye View Mirsky, Irving (Isadore), 122 bakeries and holidays, 140–41 Mirsky & Kossar. see Kossar's Bialys bakers' hierarchy, 174 mixing techniques, 12 overnight baking schedule, 82–85 mohn. see poppy seeds recovering from a mistake, 229 Montreal, waste in bakeries, 205–6 bakeries, 100, 107 young Norm, 84 The Main (Jewish neighborhood), 100 nosheray (snacks), 5 Montreal Bagels (saltfree), 100–102 Novogrudok, Belarus, 6, 106 Moskowitz & Lupowitz (restaurant), 9 Nuremburg, Germany, 22 mothers shopping with children, ix Nut Slices, Passover, 252 , 72 mutual aid societies ( landsmanshaftn ), 8 , 21, 87 Obwarzanki Krakowski (Twisted Krakover Nathan, Joan, 216 Beyglach), 100 natural , 61 Old School Rye, 74–76 Nazis, murder of Bialystok Jews, 122 one dough, many breads, 108 neighborhood bakeries, 25. see also bakeries O'Neill, Molly, 202 neighborhood food shops, ix onion, 93 neighborhoods, ix as acidifier in sour culture, 61 nemmen challah (sanctification of bread), 22 bagels, 93 New Haven, Conn., 93 bread ( pletslach ), 106 New Year, 141 Onion Board, 115 New York Bakers (www.nybakers.com), 12 Onion Fillings, 263–65 New York Egg Bagels, 103–4 Onion Kichel, 238–39 New York, N.Y., 92, 107 Onion Pockets, 107, recipe 112–13, 141 challah, 26 Onion Pumpernickel, 71 cheesecake, 202 Onion Rye Bread, 58, recipe 80 egg bagels, 103–4 Pletsl, xi, 113–15 Jewish rye bread, 59 Onion Board, 115 sweet rye, 79–80 Onion Rolls, 114 water bagels, 92, 96, 98–100 in rye sour, 62 Yiddish community life, 8 Opatów (Apt), Poland, 92, 106 New York State factory inspectors report, 92 Open Pockets, 128–29, recipe 142 New York Water Bagels, Classic, 98–100 Danish, 129, recipe 134–35 newspapers, Yiddish, 7 Orange Chiffon Cake, 198 nigella (chernuska) seeds, 23, 74, 105 organic wholegrain flour, 61

Orthodox Jews, 4, 58 Phil Gluckstern's (restaurant), 9 ounces and pounds, measurements in, 13 Philadelphia, 92 spring, 60 pies, 140 ovens, coal burning, 8, 92 crust, 126 Pineapple Filling, 266 Pale of Settlement, 4, 6–7 Plain Coffee Ring, 128 map, 4 pleated rolls. see Kaiser Rolls palm leaves (). see Elephant Ears Pletsl, Pletslach , 6, 106–7, 113–14 pan challah, 25, 53 Onion Board, 115 Passover, 216, 243–44 Onion Rolls, 114 Almond Horns, 244, 244 Plovnik, 57. see also rye bread Cheesecake, 245 Plum Cake ( Flomenkuchen ), 180 Coconut Macaroons, 245–46 pockets (pastry) Cream Puffs/Eclairs, 248 Closed Pockets, 129, 142, recipe 143–44 Honey Cake, 249–50 JamFilled MiniPockets, 219 Mandelbroyt, 250–51 Open Pockets, 129, recipe 142 Nut Slices, 252 Pockets, Onion (roll), 107, recipe 112–13, 141 Short Dough, 246–47 pogroms, 7 Sponge Cake, 253–54 Poland, 122 pasta ( ferfel), 4 Bialystok, 4, 121–22 on rye, 21, 60 breadseller, 6 pastries ( pastides ), 6, 125–26 Nazis murder Jews, 122 in America, 125–27 Drubnin, 121 filled ( ), 125–26, 128 Jan III Sobieski, King, 91–104 Russian, 2 Kraków, 2, 91 fried ( krapfen ), 168 Lódz, 5 history, 125–28 Lublin, 4 layered, 125 Opatów (Apt), 92, 106 quick reference chart, 128–29 Warsaw, 4 pastry flour, 18 polenta, Romanian ( mamaliga ), 18 patent flours, 16 Polish immigrants, 8 Pavoloch, Ukraine, 113 Polish wheat, Sandomierz, 123 pearlash, 126 PolishLithuanian Commonwealth, 3–4 peasants, 4 poppy seeds (mohn), 23, 263 pecans instead of in Southern states, 9 bagels, 93 Pentecost (Shavuos), 175 bars, 234 pentosans, 59–60 bread, 58 percentages, baker's, 13–14 cookies, 234 Peretz, I.L., 91, 106 Hungarian walnut and poppy rolls, 127 Bontsha chooses rolls, 106–7 Mohn (Poppy Seed) Filling, 234, recipe 263 persecution of Jews, 1, 3 Mohn Bars (Poppy Seed Cookies), 234 Pershings, Cinnamon, 170 Poppy Horns, 107, recipe 116–17

potassium bromate in flour, 16 Seeded Pumpernickel, 71 potatoes, 15, 17 wheat, 57 flour, 86, 244 pie, 140 knishes, 149–50 purity of meat and bread, 2 Polish Potato Bread ( Poylner Kartoffelbroyt ), 86–87 Rainbow Cookies, 223–24 , 244 raisins Pound Cake, 126, recipe 177–78 challah, 23 poverty, 1, 6–8 Pumpernickel, 58 diet of bread, herring and onions, 7 Ratner's (restaurant), 112 Poylner Kartoffelbroyt (Polish Potato Bread), Razeve Broyt (Black Bread). see also; 86–87 Pumpernickel; Rye breads, 57, 63, 105 Pratzel's Bakery (home of tzitzelbroyt ), 76 95% rye sourdough bread, 57 prepared foods, 10 recipe, 64–66 for bakeries, 11 recipes, increasing and decreasing (scaling), 12 presses (fermented dough), 25, 107 Regensburg (Ratisbon), Germany, 22 pretzels given at the bris, 91 regional adaptations in United States, 9–10 proofing of bread and rolls, 110 restaurants Prophets, 20 Lou G. Siegel, 9 prosperity Moskowitz & Lupowitz, 9 and bakeries, 9 Phil Gluckstern's, 9 diet changes, 9 Ratner's, 112–13 erosion of in Jewish Europe, 3 Rich Sourdough Barches, 28–30 protection of Jews by nobility, 3 Richler, Mordecai, 100 protein content of flour, 16 rings ProtestantCatholic warfare, 3 coffee, 125–26 Prune Filling (Lekvar), 267 Danish Coffee Ring, 128–29, recipe 135–37 Prussia, 4 Plain Coffee Ring, 129, recipe 157–59 Puff Pastry, 126 Ring Babka, 165 Blitz Puff Pastry, 137–39 Rise of David Levinsky , 7 Closed Pockets, 142–44 roll cakes Open Pockets, 142 Apricot Roll, 201 dough, 131–33 Chocolate Roll, 200–201 history, 130 Jelly Roll, 201 Pumpernickel, 16, 58, 107 Swiss Roll, 125, recipe 201 altes in, 59 rolls, 56, 58, 105 bagels, 93 challah dough rolls, 106 coloring agents, 57 cloverleaf, 107 Onion Pumpernickel, 71 double knot, 41 , 107, 109 , 141 Raisin Pumpernickel, 71 doughs recipe (40% rye, caramel colored), 69–71 Light Enriched (Light Vienna) Dough, 111–12 Rustic Pumpernickel ( Sitnice ), 67–68 Medium Enriched (Medium Vienna) Dough,

110 Pale of Settlement Sweet Egg Dough, 109 Russian protectorate, 3 forming, 107 RussianPolish challah, 25 history, 105–6 Rustic Pumpernickel ( Sitnice ), 67–68 kolitchen (challah dough), 106 rye, 2, 15, 17, 21, 56 labor intensive, 107 consumption in Eastern Europe, 56 proofing rolls, 110 cultivation, in Russia and Poland, 56 recipes culture. see Rye Sour Hungarian Filled Rolls, 147, recipe 160 fermentation, 60 kaiser ( bulkes , bulkies). see Kaiser Rolls flour. see rye flour Onion Pockets, 112–13 glaze, 63 Pletsl, xi, recipe 113–15 gluten, 58 Onion Board, 115 kneading, 60 Onion Rolls, 114 light rye paste ( kharmushke ), 57 Salt Sticks and Poppy Horns, 107, recipe meal, 17–18 116–17 rye breads, 6, 10, 16, 21 , 56–85, 107 sandwich, 141 American, 17, 76–79 shaping by hand, 107 , 58, 74–76 soft ( kuchen ), 106 cocktail, 141 Romanian immigrants, 8 in diet of poor, 56 Romanian polenta ( mamaliga ), 18 in Lithuania, 63 , 140, 234 recipes challah ( shtrayml koyletch ), 25, 38, 140 Black Bread ( Razeve Broyt ), 57, 63–66, 105. rosl (fermented beet brine), 56 see also Pumpernickel; Rye Breads Roth, Henry, 7 95% rye sourdough bread, 57 Rothenburg, Germany, 22 recipe, 64–66 Round Filled Bun, 128 Corn Rye, ( kornbroyt) , 57, recipe 72–74 Royal Bagel (Atlanta, Ga.), 92 Marble Rye, 57–58, recipe 80 Royale Kosher Bake Shop, 10 Mild Deli Rye (20% rye), 76–79 Rozenzweig, Morris, 122 New York (Sweet) Rye, 79–80 Rubin, Samuel, 58 Old School Jewish Deli Rye, 74–76 Rubin, Whitey, 58 Onion Rye, 58, recipe 80 rugel (royal), 216 Tzitzelbroyt, 76 Rugelach ( kipfel, cheese beygelach ), 9–10, 125, steam baking, 60 127, 212 sticky dough, 60 MiniSchnecken, 218–19 without sour culture, 79–80 recipe, 216–17 rye flour, 16, 18, 58 rum balls, 127 dark, 17, 63 "Rumenye, Rumenye," 18 in honey cake, 175 Russian Coffee Cake, 126, 128–29 medium, 17 recipe, 167–68 white, 17–18 Russian control of Jewish territories, 4. see also Rye Sour, 58–59, 62–64. see also sourdough

24Hour, QuickandDirty Rye Culture, 62 Settlement, Pale of. see Pale of Settlement raw onion as acidifier, 61 Seven Sisters, 128–29, recipe 166–67 rye flour in, 61–62 SevenLayer Cake, 185 , 187–88 storage and feeding, 63 Shabbes, 6, 23 ThreeDay Culture, 61–62 bread, 22, 86 yeast and onion, 62 and festivals, 2, 20, 22 ryetowheat ratio, 58 Shale-shudes , 106 table, 42, 56 Sabbath. see Shabbes Shabtai Tzvi, 3 sable (smoked fish), x Shale-shudes (third Shabbes meal), 106 saffron in challah, 23 Shamir, Arieh, 122 Safire, William, 123 shaping bagels, 96–98 salt, 19, 93, 107 shaping techniques, 12 bagels, 93 Shavuos (Pentecost), 175 kosher, 19 shchav ( ), 56 weight of, 19 Sheraton, Mimi, 122 Salt Sticks, 107, recipe 116–17 Shlafman, Isabel, 100 salted meats and fish, 63 Shleimele (baker in Novogrudok), 106 saltfree (Montreal) bagels, 101 shopkeepers, ix sanctification of bread ( efrashas challah ), 22 shopping changes from daily to weekly, 10 Sandomierz winter wheat, 123 short doughs, 210 Sandwich Cookies, 127, 141, recipe 226–27 123 Dough, 214–15 Sanger, Margaret, 7 breaking, 215 Sarah (wife of Abraham), 20 Cream Cheese Dough, 213 scaling recipes, 12 Passover Short Dough, 246–47 Schaefer's Bakery (New York), 113 Sour Cream Dough, 212 schmear Standard Short Dough, 211 on bialys, 123 shritsl , 24, 106. see also challahs chopped onion and poppy seed, 122 , 4–5, 8 (), 72 shtopers (stuffers), 106 Schnecken, 10, 127–29 shtrayml koyletch (Rosh Hashanah challah), 25, MiniSchnecken, 218–19 38, 140 Secrets of a Jewish Baker , 59 shtritslekh (blueberry buns), 106 secular American lifestyle, 10 Silber's Bakery (interior), ii seeded rolls. see Kaiser Rolls Simmons, Amelia, 126 seeds Simple Icing, 270 caraway, 58 Simple Syrup, 146, 269 chernushka (nigella), 23, 74, 105 sitnice (light brown, wheat and rye bread), 57 poppy. see poppy seeds (mohn) Sitnice (Rustic Pumpernickel), 67–68 sesame, 93 smoked meats, fish, x, 63 semolina flour, 18 Sobieski, Jan III, King of Poland, 91 sesame, 93 songs, "moralizing," 5

( shchav ), 56 pastries sour cream, 216 Apple Strudel, 149–50 Sour Cream Cheesecake, 204–5 Apple Strudel Filling, 148 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 181–82 Knishes, 2, 9, recipe 150 Sour Cream Short Dough, 212 Strudel Dough, 147 Sour Cream Spritz Cookies, 141, 230–31 variations, 149–50 Sour Cultures, 58–59, 62–64. see also sourdough suburbs, 10, 92–93 24Hour, QuickandDirty Rye Culture, 62 Sufganiyot (Jelly Doughnuts), 170 raw onion as acidifier, 61 sugar, beet, 126 rye flour in, 61–62 Summer in Williamsburg , 22 storage and feeding, 63 Sunday mornings, x, 108 ThreeDay Culture, 61–62 supermarkets, ix, 94 yeast and onion, 62 effect on Jewish diet, 10 sourdough, 18, 23, 25, 56–57, 64–66. see also rye sweatshops, 92 breads Swedish invasion, 3 Black Bread (Razeve Broyt ), 57, 63–66, 105. Sweet and Rich Challah, 33–34 see also Pumpernickel; Rye Breads Sweet Egg Dough, 109 95% rye sourdough bread, 57 sweet potato pie, 140 recipe, 64–66 Swiss rolls, 125, recipe 201 in Poland and Lithuania, 57 synagogues, 2, 8, 10 Rich Sourdough Barches, 28–30

Rye Sour, 61–64 Talmud, 21–22 sponge, 28 on benefits of eating bread, 21 spelt, 21 Tartars, 3 Spewack, Bella, 7 tarts Speyer, Germany, 22 fruit, 9 sponge, sourdough, 28 Jelly Tarts, 170 sponge cakes, x, 9, 125, 127, 183–84 taste, xi Baking Powder Sponge Cake, 186–87 Tayglech (Honey Balls), 235–36 Basic Sponge Cake, 184–85 Temple, destruction of the, 22 Passover Sponge Cake, 253–54 Thanksgiving pies, 140 Spritz Cookies, Sour Cream, 141, recipe 230–31 Thomas' English , 58 St. Louis, Mo., 76 Thompson, Daniel, 93 St. Viateur Bakery (Montreal), 100, 107 Thompson, Meyer (Mickey), 93 stadlen (Jewish advocate), 3 to flip or not, 95 steaminjected ovens, 95 tongue (beef) on rye, 72 steamleavened pastry, pie crust, 126, 130 Torah, 22 stenciled leaf cookies, 141 bread in the, 20 straight flour, 16 grains named in, 21 Streets , 7 (meat turnovers), 2 Topping, 275–76 tortes, sweet, 125–26. see also cakes; pastries; strudel, 4–5, 9, 126, 147, 150. see also filled pies

trades passed from father to son, 5 Volozhin, Belarus, 125 Trishik, Lithuania, 91 volume measurements, 13 troubleshooting failed cakes, 207–8 trust in business, ix Wakswaser, Yosl Tsalel Volfs, 106 Turks, 3 Walnut or Hazelnut filling, 267–68 Turnovers, 128–29 warfare between Catholics and Protestants, 3 twelve loaves, 23 Warsaw, Poland, 4 twelve tribes of Israel, 22 Warshavsky, Dov, 18, 24, 56, 105, 209 Twist Danish, 146 Washington Heights (New York, N.Y.), 9 Twisted Krakover Beyglach ( Obwarzanki waste in bakeries, 205–6 Krakowski) , 100 water, filtered, 61 "Two Dead Men," 215 Water Bagels, Classic New York, 98–100 Tzitzelbroyt (cornmeal crusted caraway rye), 76 Water Challah, Eggless, 25, recipe 35–36 Tzvi, Shabtai, 3 eat wheat bread, 56 wedding breads, 22 Ukraine, 105 weight measurements, 13 Borchov (Borszcsow), 106 wheat, 2, 57 Cossack revolt, 3 abundance in America, 57, 60, 86, 125 economy, 3 in Europe, 105 Haidamaks (guerillas), 3 flours, 16 Pavoloch, 113 pumpernickel, 57 Ukrainian immigrants, 8 soft, 16, 21 unbleached flour, 16 whole. see whole wheat, 31–32 uniforms and status (bakery staff), xi white breads, 10, 86. see also challah; Vienna Unilever (Levy's Jewish rye), 58 bread union bagel makers, 92–94 white rye flour, 17–18 unions whitefish, smoked, 108 Local 3, Bakery, Confectionary and Tobacco whole wheat, 25 Workers International Union, 93 flour, 16 Local 338, International Beigel Bakers Union of Honey Whole Wheat Challah, 31–32 Greater New York and New Jersey, 92–93, 96, wild yeasts, 61 103, 107 wine, 21 universality of baking, 11 Wine Cake, 178–80 urban space, Jewish, 2 Wirth, Louis, 58

Wonder Cake, xi, 127, recipe 194–95 Va'ad Arbeh Artzes (Council of Four Lands), 3 working conditions in bakeries, early 20th Vanilla Fudge Icing, 275 century, 9 vegetables, raw, 21 World War II, 58 ( Vinnerbroyt ), 89–90

Vienna doughs, 110–11 yeast, 18–19, 61 Vilna, Poland, 3–4 conversion table, 19 vinegar, 126 rabbis' monopoly, 23

YeastRaised Doughnuts, 168–70 yeastraised pastry, 151 Yezierska, Anzia, 7 Yiddish bakeries, 127 baking tradition, xi civilization, 2, 22 community life, 8 Europe, 1 language Internet resources, 279–80 newspapers, 7 neighborhoods in America, 92 Yiddishe heym (Yiddish homeland), 10, 18, 22, 28. see also Pale of Settlement Yoss, Michael, 92 z'chor (memory), xi Zipper, Jacob, 6 Zohar (Book of the Kabbalah ), 21