Revised Index
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
INSIDE THE JEWISH BAKERY – Revised Index Illustration pages in bold . assimilation, 92 A Bintel Brief (advice column), 7 asthma, baker's, 9 Abraham, 20 Auld Lang Syne, 141 Abramowicz, Hirsz, 63 Austria, 4, 22 acids, 59, 61, 126 autolysis of gluten, 98 advertising, influence on food habits, 10 affordable baked goods, 9 Babka, 9, 125–26, 128 Aleichem, Sholom, 33–34, 106, 215 Babka Dough, 163–64 almond, 91 Loaf Babka, 164–65 Almond Buns, 128, recipe 152–53 Ring Babka, 165 Almond Filling, 255 Ukranian versus Jewish, 2 Almond Horns, recipe 232–34, 244 bacteria, beneficial, 61 Passover Almond Horns, 244 bagel bakeries, 94 Almond Paste, 256 bagel makers, 92–93 Rainbow Cookies, 223–24 bagel-making machine, 93 bagels, 91 bagels, xi, 6, 58, 91–104, 106 altes or altus (stale bread added to dough), 59, almond, 91 205 in America, 91–92, 94 American Cookery , 126 bakeries, 94 Americanization, impact on Jewish bakeries, 10 baking, 95 Anatevka, 1 black, 91 appetizing stores, x, 108 boards and burlap, 94 apple boiling, 92, 95, 98 Apple Crumb Buns, 128 bread-like, 93–94 Apple Filling, 257 chain outlets, 94 Apple Strudel, 149–50 crust, 95–96 Aunt Lillian's Apple Cake, 182–83 in Eastern Europe, 91 pie, 140 eggs and milk in bagels, 91 Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz, The , 100 to flip or not, 95 apricot frozen, 93 Apricot Filling, 258 hand rolling, 93 Apricot Roll, 201 lox and, 128 Apt (Opatów), Poland, 92, 106 machine made, 94 Arnold Bakeries (Levy's Jewish rye), 58 mass produced, 10 Aronson, Sammy, 8 milk and eggs in, 91 artisan flour. see flours, artisan onion, 93 ash content of flour, 16 recipes, 98–104 Egg Bagels, New York, 103–4 of Greater New York and New Jersey, 92– Montreal Bagels (salt-free), 100–102 93, 96, 107 Twisted Krakover Beyglach ( Obwarzanki in New York, N.Y., 7 Krakowski) , 100 status, 2, 174 Water Bagels, Classic New York, 98–100 uniforms, xi round bottoms, 95 working conditions, 9 salt, 93 baker's asthma, 9 salt-free, 101 baker's percentages, 13–14 sesame, 93 baker's wife, Kraków, 2 shaping, 96–98 Bakery, Confectionary and Tobacco Workers in supermarkets, 94 International Union Local 3, 93 Baker, Harry, 196 Bakery Challah, 26–27 bakeries, x, x, 94 bakery cookies, 141, 209–10 in cellars, 8–9 baking methods, 58 Coney Island Bagels & Bialys, 107, 122 baking powder, 126 Crystal Bakery, 9 baking schedule for Shabbes, 25 display counters. see display cases and counters baking soda, 126 Don's, 41 baking tradition, Yiddish, xi Entenmann's, 58 balabos (bagel making crew chief), 92 Fairmount, 100, 107 bar mitzvahs, 10, 41 Gertel's, 10 barches, 25. see also challahs kosher, 58 medieval, 25 Kossar's Bialys, 107, 122 Rich Sourdough Barches, 28–30 Kramer's, 113 barley, 2, 15, 17, 21, 56–57 Louis Lichtman's, 10, 147 Barley Bread ( Gershtnbroyt ), 87–89 ovens used by housewives, 23 in the Torah, 87 Pratzel's, 76 Bassevi, Jacob, von Treuenberg, 2 pre-made goods for, 11 bat mitzvahs, 10, 41 and prosperity, 9 batter formulas, 12 Royal Bagel, 92 Bear Claws, 128–29, recipe 161–62 Royale Kosher Bake Shop, 10 bedikas chometz (the search for leaven), 244 Schaefer's, 113 beef tongue on rye, 72 schedule, 82–85 beet sugar, 126 Silber's Bakery, ii beets, 9 St. Viateur, 100, 107 rosl (fermented beet brine), 56 staff, xi Belarus, 24, 57 working conditions, 9 Divin, 6 bakers Volozhin, 125 labor unions benefits of eating bread, Talmudic, 21 Local 3, Bakery, Confectionary and Tobacco Bernbach, William, 58 Workers International Union, 93 Berry or Cherry Filling, 260 Local 338, International Beigel Bakers Union Better Homes & Gardens , 196 Bezalel, Judah Loew ben, 3 braided breads, 22. see also challah Bialy Eaters, The , 122 braiding instructions, 38 Bialys ( Bialystoker Kuchen ), xi, 121–24, recipe challah twist, 39 123–24 double knot rolls, 40 Bialystok, Poland, 4, 6, 121–22 five-strand braid, 49–50 Nazis murder Jews in, 122 high four-strand braid, 47–48 Bible, bread in the, 20. see also Torah low four-strand braid, 45–46 Bintel Brief, A (advice column), 7 New Year's one-strand challah ( shtrayml Bird, Alfred, 126 koyletch ), 38 birkas hamazon (grace after meals), 2, 21 six-strand (bakery) braid, 51–53 Biscotti, Jewish ( Kamishbroyt ), 240 three-strand braid, 43–44 Black and White Cookies, 108, 125, 127, 141, 178, two-strand braid, 42 recipe 221–22 Braudel, Fernand, 2, 87 black bagels, 91 bread, 8 Black Bread ( Razeve Broyt ), 57, 63–66, 105. see bakers, 174 also Pumpernickel; Rye Breads in the Bible, 20 95% rye sourdough bread, 57 blessing over bread ( hamotzi ), 2 recipe, 64–66 definition, 21 bleached flour, 16 flour. see flours, bread blended cakes (high-ratio cakes), 188 hierarchy, 106 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 Kabbalah on, 21 150 Percent Chocolate Cake, 190–91 mass produced, 10 Checkerboard Cake, 127, recipe 191–92 in medieval diet, 2 blessing over bread ( hamotzi ), 2, 21, 41 ovens, 57 blintzes, 9 proofing, 110 Blitz Puff Pastry, 137–39 purity of, 2 Closed Pockets, 142–44 recipes. see breads Open Pockets, 142 reverence for, 20 blogs, 278–79 sanctification of ( efrashas challah ), 22 blueberry buns ( shtritslekh ), 106 signifies a meal, 2 Blumenthal, Nachman, 105 the size of an olive, 2, 21 boards and burlap, 94 in the Torah, 20 Boboli, 58 Bread Givers , 7 boiling bagels, 92, 95, 98 bread-like bagels, 93–94 malt versus lye or baking soda, 98 bread-machine yeast, 19 "Bontsha Shvayg" ("Bontsha the Silent"), 106–7 breads Book of Kings, 20 Austrian, 8 Borchov (Borszczow), Ukraine, 106 braided, 22. see also braiding instructions; Bordeaux wine, 21 challahs borscht, 56 dark, 2 Boston, Mass., 92, 105 German, 8 Bow Ties ( Eier Kichelach ), 127, recipe 237–38 Hungarian, 8 onion (pletslach), 106 Buttercream, Chocolate, 272 Polish, 8 recipes cabbage, 9 95% rye sourdough bread, 57 knishes, 2, 9, recipe 150 Barley Bread ( Gershtnbroyt ), 87–89 Cahan, Abraham, 7 Black Bread ( Razeve Broyt ), 57, 63, recipe cake bakers, 174 64–66, 105. see also Pumpernickels; Rye cake crumbs, 127, 205–6 Breads cake flour, 18 challah. see challahs cake mix, 172 Corn Rye ( Kornbroyt) , 57, recipe 72–74 cake sold by the pound, 193 light rye. see rye breads cake yeast, 18 Polish Potato Bread ( Poylner cakes, 58 Kartoffelbroyt ), 86 baking, 172 pumpernickel. see pumpernickels cheesecakes, 5, 126–27 rye. see rye breads 100% Cream Cheese Cheesecake, 203–4 Vienna Bread ( Vinnerbroyt ), 111 cherry, 202 rolls. see rolls libum (Roman), 202 Russian, 8 New York style, 202 sandwich, 86 Passover, 245 wedding, 22 Sour Cream Cheesecake, 204–5 wheat, 6 chiffon cakes, 9, 125, 127, 196, 196 white, 10, 86 Apricot Roll, 201 breadseller in Bialystok, Poland, 6 Chocolate Chiffon Cake, 199 breaking short dough, 215 Chocolate Roll, 200–201 Brenner, Paul, 92 Golden Chiffon Cake, 197 bris (circumcision ceremony) Jelly Roll, 201 pretzels given, 91 mixing instructions, 200 Brodsky family, 33 Orange Chiffon Cake, 198 Bronx, N.Y., ix, 9 Swiss Roll, 201 Brooklyn, N.Y., ix, 9 combination cakes, 193 buckwheat, 15, 56–57 Wonder Cake, xi, 127, 194–95 buns, 105 components, 125 bulkes (bulkies). see Kaiser Rolls creamed cakes, 173 buns Aunt Lillian's Apple Cake, 182–83 Almond Buns, 128, 152–53 Honey Cake ( Lekach ), 10, 125, 127, 140, apple crumb, 128 recipe 175–77 blueberry ( shtritslekh ), 106 Plum Cake ( Flomenkuchen ), 180 Bun Dough, 151–52 Pound Cake, 126, recipe 177–78 Cinnamon Buns, 129, 153 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 181–82 Fruit-filled Buns, 129, 154 Wine Cake, 178–80 Horseshoes, 128–29, recipe 155–56 crumbs, 127, 205–6 Buttercream, 271 cupcakes, 178 frozen, 172 eggs and oil in, 23 ginger, 5 eight-dollar, 54–55 high-ratio (blended) cakes, 188 home baked, 24 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 New Year's challah ( shtrayml koyletch ), 25, 38, 150 Percent Chocolate Cake, 190–91 38 , 140 Checkerboard Cake, 127, recipe 191–92 origin, 22 honey cakes. see Lekach ; Passover Honey Cake pan, 25, 53–54, 193 honey-ginger cakes, 5 Polish-style, 25 layer cakes, 9 raisins in, 23, 37 125 Percent Yellow Cake, 189 recipes 150 Percent Chocolate Cake, 190–91 Bakery Challah, 26–27 Seven-Layer Cake, 185 , 187–88 Eggless Water Challah, 25, recipe 35–36 sold by the pound, 193 Honey Whole Wheat Challah, 25, recipe 31– 32 sponge cakes, x, 9, 125, 127, 183–84 Rich Sourdough Barches, 28–30 Baking Powder Sponge Cake, 186–87 Sweet and Rich Challah, 33–34 Basic Sponge Cake, 184–85 rolls ( kolitchen ), 106 Passover Sponge Cake, 253–54 baking, 41 Seven-Layer Cake, 185 , 187–88 double knot rolls, 40, 40 troubleshooting, 207–8 Russian-style, 25 Call It Sleep , 6 saffron in, 23 canapés, 141 section (pan), 25, 53–54, 193 candies, 5 shapes, 25, 37 Caramel Color, 81 six-braid, 20, 22–23 , 25 carbon dioxide, 126 sourdough, 23, 28–30 Catherine II, The Great, Empress of Russia,, 4 sweet, 25 Catholic mass, 20 twelve-strand, 54–55 Catholic-Protestant warfare, 3 twists, 41 , 107, 141 Cato (Roman orator), 202 Charles V, 3 celebration challahs. see challahs, celebration charlotte russe, x celebration with baked goods, 2 Chasidic neighborhoods, 127 cellar bakeries, 92 Chasidism, 3, 106 centers of learning, 3 Checkerboard Cake, 127, recipe 191–92 centrality of food, 8 cheese, x, 63 chain outlets, 94 beygelach (rugelach). see Rugelach challahs, 6, 10, 22–56, 58, 105 Cheese Filling, 259 from bakeries, 25 and fruit strudel, 149–50 bakery production, 25 cheesecakes, 5, 126–27 braiding instructions. see braiding instructions 100% Cream Cheese Cheesecake, 203–4 celebration, 54–55 cherry, 202 centrality to Shabbes table, 23 libum (Roman), 202 decoration of, 22 New York style, 202 double knot rolls, 40, 40 Passover Cheesecake, 245 Cinnamon-Sugar Filling, 261 Sour Cream