Columbia River Gorge Cideries

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edibleSEATTLE

Celebrating the seasonal bounty of Puget Sound

November/December 2017

vol 10/no 6 • $4.99

Columbia River
Gorge Cideries

Cooking with Einkorn

$4.99

Salmonberry Goods
Street Bean

Edible Seattle November/December 2017

Departments

24

ON THE WATER

64

FINAL COURSE

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WHOLE GRAIN PANTRY

A 5th-generation family shellﬁsh farm harvests the merroir of the Hood Canal.
House rules dictated a strict twocookies-per-day regimen, but on those not-so-silent nights, it was no holds barred.
Nutty, nutritious einkorn wheat pulls up a chair at the holiday table.

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ARTISANS

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MODERN PANTRY

With a mission to support small farms, Salmonberry Goods places pastries into the farm-to-table movement.
Putting the “coﬀee” into “coﬀee cake, this British confection is rich, decadently frosted, and java-juiced.

Features

30 36
VINE TO BOTTLE

Buty Winery blends wines of place.

14 16
THE EDIBLE GARDEN

Late-autumn soil building is a birthday gift to your garden.

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MARGINAL TO MAINSTREAM

e Foodways Project is a grassroots eﬀort to undo racism and other forms of oppression through foodfocused education, empowerment, and activism.

COOKING FRESH

It’s the most wonderful time of the year! ese festive appetizers are designed to make this season’s gatherings merry and bright.

LIQUID ASSETS

Gilbert Cellars, a small family winery in Yakima, handcrafts true-to-varietal Washington wine.

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COFFEE WITH A

CONSCIENCE
44

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ROAD TRIP

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ORIGIN OF A DISH

Street Bean brews opportunities for street-involved youth to reclaim their lives, one cup at a time.
With 12 cideries to choose from, each with its own specialties, the Columbia River Gorge is ripe for a road trip.
Her mother’s welcoming spirit inspired Donna Moodie to name her restaurant Marjorie, after the most gracious hostess she ever knew.

COVER AND THIS PAGE

photo by Sylvia Fountaine

EVENTS

EDIBLE SEATTLE | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
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edible

seattle

Celebrating the seasonal bounty of Puget Sound

PUBLISHER Free Range Media LLC

EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER

Marty Griswold • [email protected]

EDITOR

Alex Corcoran • [email protected]

MANAGING EDITOR Megan Hill

ART DIRECTOR Charity Burggraaf
LAYOUT Melissa Petersen

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT

Paola Thomas • Sylvia Fountaine • Megan Gordon
RECIPE TESTING Jennifer Dunlap COPY EDITOR Terre Gorham

SOCIAL MEDIA Megan Hill WEB MISTRESS Jill Carter

WEB MANAGEMENT Kira Batcheller
SUBSCRIBE [email protected]
ADVERTISING [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

Christie Brydon • Paola Thomas • Bill Thorness • Haley Shapley
Adriana Janovich • Anne Sampson • Sylvia Fountaine Megan Gordon • Nicole Cappoziello • Sarah Barthelow
Nelle Clark • Nolan Calisch • Charity Burggraaf Noah Forbes • Audrey Kelly • Amber Fouts

Recipe Index

7 Dark Chocolate Gingerbread Scones 8 Shaved Brussels Sprouts and Delicata Squash Salad 22 African Yam Hummus

SUBSCRIBE • GIVE A GIFT • BUY AN AD

[email protected] • edibleseattle.com
1752 NW Market Street, #131

22 Roasted Beet Hummus

Seattle, WA 98107

22 Grilled Pineapple Guacamole 22 Marjorie’s Pico de Gallo

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2017 All Rights Reserved. Published by Free Range Media, LLC

22 Scallop Ceviche 22 Black Bean Dip 29 Coffee and Walnut Cake

Find us daily on facebook, twitter and instagram.

37 Roasted Fig and Cambozola Bruschetta 39 Moroccan Lamb Meatballs with Pomegranate Glaze 40 Muhammara Dip 43 Mini Potatoes with Smoked Salmon, Chive Cream, and Salmon Roe

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whole grain pantry

From Ancient Fare to Holiday Flair

Nutty, nutritious einkorn wheat begins a culinary tradition.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MEGAN GORDON

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hen it comes to getting into the kitchen during the holiday season, many of us start to feel our

DARK CHOCOLATE GINGERBREAD SCONES

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With a deep, dark flavor, thanks to the maple syrup, brown sugar, and molasses, these scones are an easy fit for the holiday morning table. They feature both crystallized and ground ginger and a generous handful of dark chocolate, so I’m guessing that even the scone skeptics in your life may pull up a chair.

blood pressure rise. For me, it’s not so much about family, timing dishes perfectly, or making enough food, it’s more that every year I feel like we don’t have our thing — the one side dish we’re really known for, the winning way we always do a anksgiving turkey, or the recipe we always prepare Christmas morning. Somehow, having our son two years ago has only ampliﬁed this anxiety, with me all but convincing myself that our family has got to get its act together and get our food canon locked down.

Serves: 6 | Start to Finish: 75 minutes

2 1/2 cups (300g) all-purpose einkorn flour

Using a pastry blender or your fingertips, work the butter into the flour until it resembles a coarse meal.

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

In a small bowl, whisk together milk, 1 egg, maple syrup, and molasses. Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients and fold together gently until well combined. Fold in the chocolate chunks and crystallized ginger.

Of course, like all of you, we’re busy people, and the reason our food canon is not locked down is because I often wait until the week before the event to start making lists and pacing the kitchen. en, more often than not, I convince myself that there’s a lot to be said for trying a new recipe — so we generally travel that road — and everyone leaves well-fed and happy, and I sit at the counter assuring myself that we’ll work on our food traditions next time around.

5 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface and gather it into a ball (you will likely have to flour your hands, as the dough will be quite sticky). Pat the dough into a flat circle about 1 inch thick. Transfer to a plate and place in the freezer for 20 minutes.

1/3 cup whole milk 2 large eggs, divided 1/4 cup real maple syrup 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons molasses 1 1/4 cups dark chocolate chunks (at least 60% cacao)

3 tablespoons crystallized ginger, finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Remove dough from freezer and slice into six even triangle wedges.

1 tablespoon coarse decorating sugar for topping (optional)

Well, here we are again, and this year we’re mixing it up — but deliberately so — with this vibrant and delicious grain bowl and these dangerously addictive scones, both made with einkorn.

Beat the remaining egg with a tablespoon of water and brush the tops of each scone with the egg wash.
Line 1 large baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
Sprinkle sugar on top if desired. Place scones on prepared baking sheet.
In a large bowl, whisk flour, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and salt.

If you haven’t heard of einkorn, it’s an ancient wheat — actually, the earliest variety of cultivated wheat. With as much protein as quinoa, einkorn is the most nutritious of the wheat varieties, and it’s said to be easier to digest than others, too. Cooked einkorn berries have a chewy texture, and the flour has a sweet, nutty flavor, making both prime candidates for mixing it up at the holiday table this year. You can find both einkorn berries and flour online, although thanks to its superior nutritional profile and growing popularity, more local retailers will start stocking it on store shelves (keep an eye on those bulk bins!). I’ll keep my fingers crossed for as much, and next year, we’re keeping these two in the rotation. Cheers

Bake 12–16 minutes or until scones are golden brown. Remove pan from oven and transfer scones to a wire rack to cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Store leftovers in an airtight container for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

Vegetarian

Megan Gordon is a writer, recipe developer, culinary educator and small business consultant. She’s the founder of Marge Granola, a company specializing in crazy delicious whole grain cereals. When not baking and writing, Megan can be found at the beach with her husband Sam and toddler son, Oliver.

to the (slow) building of a food canon.

es

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SHAVED BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND DELICATA SQUASH SALAD

A fall, whole-grain salad is a must at our holiday table, and this one wins rave reviews for its maple-roasted squash and shaved Brussels sprouts. The fresh herbs bring the color, and the chopped hazelnuts bring the crunch. Even better the next day, this salad is always a great candidate for doubling, so your guests get to take home leftovers — or you can simply take advantage of having lunch ready for the next few days.

Start to Finish: 90 minutes | Serves 6-8

For the Dressing:

Preheat oven to 425°F. Place the squash and onion slices in a medium bowl and

1 clove garlic, finely minced

drizzle with maple syrup and olive oil.

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Spread squash mixture out onto one large, rimmed baking sheet and bake until tender and golden brown, 25–30 minutes.

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon maple syrup 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Meanwhile, in a medium, heavy-bottomed pot, bring water to a vigorous boil. Add einkorn wheat berries, reduce heat to low, and cover the pot. Simmer until the liquid has been absorbed, 35–40 minutes.

kosher salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a small bowl, whisk garlic, vinegar, mustard, and maple syrup. Slowly stream in the olive oil, whisking constantly, until emulsified. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Remove from heat and let sit 15 minutes. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the pecorino cheese and set aside (you should have about 1/2 cup).

For the Salad:

1 medium delicata squash (about 1 pound), halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch slices

Transfer einkorn to a large serving bowl. Fold in the Brussels sprouts, chives, hazelnuts and lemon zest. Pour the dressing over the top and stir to combine. Taste and season with salt and pepper, as desired. Gently fold in the roasted delicata squash mixture, as well as the parsley. Serve at room temperature. Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.

1 small red onion, halved lengthwise, and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil kosher salt freshly ground black pepper 3 cups water

Vegetarian

1 1/2 cups einkorn berries, rinsed 2-ounce chunk pecorino cheese 1/3 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and shaved on a mandoline

1/3 cup fresh chives, finely chopped 2/3 cup toasted hazelnuts, chopped 1 teaspoon lemon zest kosher salt freshly-ground black pepper 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

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artisans

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Sweet on Local

rder a coﬀee in just about any boutique Seattle coﬀee shop, and you’ll likely hear about the origin and tasting you don’t know who baked this scone?” Alex laughs.

With a mission to support small farms, Salmonberry Goods places pastries into the farm-to-table movement.

David and Alex have roots that trace back to high school, where the long-time friends bonded over an interest in environmentalism and small businesses. ey first started Convoy Coffee, which served coffee from local roasters at a mobile bicycle cart at farmers markets. After opening a brick-andmortar location in Pioneer Square, they

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notes of the blend. But ask about the food, and you’ll get a vague gesture towards a pile of pastries.

Salmonberry Goods co-founders David Rothstein and Alex Johnstone weren’t satisﬁed with that discrepancy. “You can tell me at what elevation this bean was grown, but

STORY BY CHRISTIE BRYDON
PHOTOS BY NELLE CLARK

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Every business has the power to vote with its dollars, and it’s a power that Salmonberry doesn’t take lightly.

wanted to embrace the local economy in a new way: through food. financial independence,” says David. “If you don’t do it regularly, how can they support themselves?”
But with small coffee shops, it’s not just an issue of artisanship, but of affordability. Running an efficient pastry program can be expensive, not to mention wasteful.
at led to their launch of Salmonberry Goods, a farm-to-table pastry company with a mission of supporting small farms. Due to the founders’ experience at farmers markets, the menu wrote itself.
Salmonberry Goods sources bacon from Washington’s Skagit River Ranch, a certified humane and organic farm a couple hours north of Seattle. When the team looked to add a peanut butter cookie, they chose barley malt, also from Skagit, and paired it with peanuts from CB’s Nuts, based in Kingston.
at’s why Salmonberry Goods now enables cafes to be their own suppliers. ey provide coffee shops with equipment and product to become bakeries of their own, rather than relying on larger distributors. e process allows the coffee shops to have direct control over the pastries’ quantity and freshness, and the company provides ongoing training so café owners can continue to serve
For Salmonberry Goods, it’s not enough to feature local blueberries in a muffin. True localism goes much broader: flour from local mills, dairy from small creameries, even sweeteners by way of Skagit Valley Malting.
Sometimes, the ingredients come before the product idea. Take the granola: When David and Alex learned that Starvation Alley, a Washington cranberry farm, didn’t have a use for its spent cranberries (the cranberry skins leftover after the juicing process), they began experimenting with recipes. Dried cranberries now provide a tart accent in Salmonberry’s granola, as well as a seasonal cranberryorange bread.
Salmonberry Goods and maintain quality.
Every business has the power to vote with its

dollars, and it’s a power that Salmonberry doesn’t take lightly.
Anchored Ship Coffee Bar, located in Ballard, became the first coffee shop to sign up as a supplier of Salmonberry Goods. Owner Sheila Mulvihill had been frustrated by the wastefulness of wholesale delivery, which often has high minimums and costs. Now she can choose what she serves and know that the products are supporting local farms.
“By choosing to neglect sourcing, you’re slowly slipping away from small producers and farmers that give care to make a quality product,” says David. “If we can sustain them, then we can continue to improve the product in process and ingredients.”
Alex Mondau, Starvation Alley co-founder and CFO, applauded the innovative spirit. e company had planned to someday develop dried cranberries, but David jumped in early. “It was small business owner to small business owner, saying, ‘I’m not ready to put this onto the market, but you’re ready to experiment with it,’” says Mondau.
It means a lot to a small business like Anchored Ship. “It’s so smart, because you can control it. ere’s no waste.” And, she adds, “I have more of a profit than I had before.”
With a naturally limited market — both in terms of region and season — Salmonberry’s menu takes fresh inventory and some critical thinking.

It’s clear that Salmonberry Goods struck a chord with many. e challenge in bringing localism to the mainstream is ongoing education about what it means—and why it’s so crucial.
“It’s us interpreting what is needed by coﬀee shops, going into our list of farmers, getting creative to see what we can make with what we have,” says Alex. When he wanted to create a brownie, for instance, he pulled from his list to choose Lynden, Washington’s Holmquist Hazelnuts and Oregon’s Jacobsen sea salt. To help with the process,
He believes that the impact is ultimately much larger than a single farm or business. “If we don’t support the local economy, then we as consumers have fewer choices, and some of those choices don’t have our best interests in mind.”
“We’re rising to the challenge of creating things that people will love,” says Alex, “while also bringing them closer to their farmers and

^{letting them vote with their dollar.”}es

Salmonberry hired Carley Rose, its first pastry chef, whose background includes Caffe Ladro, Starwood Hotels, and Tom Douglas.
Alex says he’d like to see an industry shift towards prioritizing ingredients over procedure. “Even some of the highest-held bakeries don’t use nice flour — they’re all about the process. Why aren’t you using the amazing local flour that we have?”

Christie Brydon is a Seattle-based writer, California native, relentless vegetarian, and coffee enthusiast.

e focus is on building and maintaining relationships with farmers. “If you’re providing regular, repeat business to small farms, and not opportunistic seasonal highlights” — like pumpkin only in the fall — “you’re fostering

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the edible garden

love chocolate cake; it’s my go-to birthday treat. And the best is not heavy or dense, neither is it too light or so springy that it bounces back oﬀ must be productive, for there is no bounteous harvest without good soil. Of course, soil quality is just one reason that your garden might be less than optimally productive, but for the purposes of this article, let’s stick to the soil.

Piece of

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your fork. How does a well-made cake relate to gardening? ink of the cake when you’re caring for your soil.
A great soil is called “loam” and contains a

balance of clay, silt, and sand. Most urban gardeners don’t have a quality loam because our natural topsoil has been displaced by building and cultivating, so we need to amend the soil. If it’s too sandy, it won’t hold moisture and nutrients; if it’s too clayey, it won’t have enough aeration for roots and soil microbes to thrive. Either of those imbalances can be improved with the addition of decomposed organic matter, such as compost. However, if the imbalance is extreme, it might take years and incredible amounts of organic matter to improve it; in those cases, just build some raised beds and start fresh with a soil mix that is ideal.
Going into the dark, short days of winter, your thoughts may not turn to garden soil. Isn’t that something we address in the spring, right before we plant? Well … yes and no. If you have pretty good soil, perhaps just a bit of spring prep is all that’s needed. But most of us should pay attention to our soil yearround, and especially consider its needs right after a growing season. If you’re a summer gardener, that would be now.

Cake

Late-autumn soil building is a birthday gift to your garden.

STORY BY BILL THORNESS
PHOTO BY NOLAN CALISCH

Late autumn is a great time to take a few simple steps that will preserve and enhance your soil for next spring. To preserve what you have, get it covered for protection. To enhance a sub-standard soil, mulch and cover-crop.
Adequate nutrient levels are another hallmark of a productive garden. However, if you’ve grown crops intensively for years without regular inputs of fertilizer or organic matter, you might have low soil nutrition. A professional soil test will answer this question for you and give guidance as to how to improve it. While fall is a great time to get a soil test,

WHAT IS GOOD SOIL?

For a home gardener, good soil is a garden that grows good plants. Evaluate how well your garden performed this year. If your veggies were the envy of your neighborhood and kept the family well-fed, your garden soil

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you wouldn’t be adding fertilizers now. at is something done shortly before planting. (Note: King County residents can get five free soil tests from the King Conservation District. Details at kingcd.org.) and flowers; layer them on the soil; then cover the whole thing with cardboard and a top layer of finished compost (like the municipal yard-waste product made by Recology Organics). Take care not to add diseased plants, such as tomato vines that show late blight, or the ripe seed heads of weeds. Also don’t add “running” weeds like bindweed that will just re-root and snake out from under the pile. second week of November. Choose the smallseeded type typically grown as a cover crop, and you won’t be tempted to let them grow to the harvestable stage for eating; they should be cut down when flowering.

Robust microbial activity is needed for healthy soil too, and this is not as easy to detect as nutrient levels. Sure, you can dig a hole and look for earthworms, but the worm is to the soil as the whale is to the sea. While there might be one visible whale, there are surely millions of smaller swimmers, some microscopic. It’s the same in the soil. e “soil foodweb,” to use the term coined by Dr. Elaine Ingham, a leading soil scientist, is a complex community of microorganisms like fungi, bacteria, and insects that are necessary to break down organic matter and make it available to the plants.
One ﬁnal step that can be taken to protect and enhance even the most productive vegetable garden: Shield the soil from winter rain compaction. If you do nothing else, cover your empty vegetable beds with a top mulch that will soften the eﬀects of heavy or regular rain. Cover-cropping serves this purpose, but instead, apply a thick (3–4 inches) layer of straw mulch or a layer of burlap bags.
By next spring, the soil decomposers will have broken down the layered material, and you can plant into it. With this one action, you will have added more loam, increased the nutrient level, and fed the soil foodweb.
As the weather starts to warm and the rains