Columbia River Gorge Cideries
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Member of Edible Communities edible SEATTLE ® Celebrating the seasonal bounty of Puget Sound November/December 2017 vol 10/no 6 • $4.99 Columbia River Gorge Cideries $4.99 Cooking with Einkorn -issue ary back Salmonberry Goods pliment ands Com Newsst issue on Current Street Bean Edible Seattle November/December 2017 Departments 6 WHOLE GRAIN PANTRY 24 ON THE WATER 64 FINAL COURSE Nutty, nutritious einkorn wheat pulls A 5th-generation family shellfish House rules dictated a strict two- up a chair at the holiday table. farm harvests the merroir of the cookies-per-day regimen, but on Hood Canal. those not-so-silent nights, it was no 10 ARTISANS holds barred. With a mission to support small 28 MODERN PANTRY farms, Salmonberry Goods places Putting the “coffee” into “coffee cake, pastries into the farm-to-table this British confection is rich, movement. decadently frosted, and java-juiced. Features 14 THE EDIBLE GARDEN 30 VINE TO BOTTLE 54 MARGINAL TO MAINSTREAM Late-autumn soil building is a Buty Winery blends wines of place. e Foodways Project is a grassroots birthday gift to your garden. effort to undo racism and other 36 COOKING FRESH forms of oppression through food- 16 LIQUID ASSETS It’s the most wonderful time of the focused education, empowerment, Gilbert Cellars, a small family winery year! ese festive appetizers are and activism. in Yakima, handcrafts true-to-varietal designed to make this season’s Washington wine. gatherings merry and bright. 58 COFFEE WITH A CONSCIENCE 20 ORIGIN OF A DISH 44 ROAD TRIP Street Bean brews opportunities for Her mother’s welcoming spirit With 12 cideries to choose from, street-involved youth to reclaim their inspired Donna Moodie to name her each with its own specialties, the lives, one cup at a time. restaurant Marjorie, after the most Columbia River Gorge is ripe for a gracious hostess she ever knew. road trip. COVER AND THIS PAGE photo by Sylvia Fountaine 62 EVENTS EDIBLE SEATTLE | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 3 edible seattle Celebrating the seasonal bounty of Puget Sound PUBLISHER Free Range Media LLC EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER Marty Griswold • [email protected] EDITOR Alex Corcoran • [email protected] MANAGING EDITOR Megan Hill ART DIRECTOR Charity Burggraaf LAYOUT Melissa Petersen RECIPE DEVELOPMENT Paola Thomas • Sylvia Fountaine • Megan Gordon RECIPE TESTING Jennifer Dunlap COPY EDITOR Terre Gorham SOCIAL MEDIA Megan Hill WEB MISTRESS Jill Carter WEB MANAGEMENT Kira Batcheller SUBSCRIBE [email protected] ADVERTISING ads@ediblese attle.com CONTRIBUTORS Christie Brydon • Paola Thomas • Bill Thorness • Haley Shapley Recipe Index Adriana Janovich • Anne Sampson • Sylvia Fountaine Megan Gordon • Nicole Cappoziello • Sarah Barthelow Nelle Clark • Nolan Calisch • Charity Burggraaf 7 Dark Chocolate Gingerbread Scones Noah Forbes • Audrey Kelly • Amber Fouts 8 Shaved Brussels Sprouts and Delicata Squash Salad SUBSCRIBE • GIVE A GIFT • BUY AN AD [email protected] • edibleseattle.com 22 African Yam Hummus 1752 NW Market Street, #131 22 Roasted Beet Hummus Seattle, WA 98107 22 Grilled Pineapple Guacamole Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify 22 Marjorie’s Pico de Gallo us. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2017 All Rights Reserved. Published by Free Range Media, LLC 22 Scallop Ceviche 22 Black Bean Dip 29 Coffee and Walnut Cake Find us daily on facebook, twitter and instagram. 37 Roasted Fig and Cambozola Bruschetta 39 Moroccan Lamb Meatballs with Pomegranate Glaze 40 Muhammara Dip 43 Mini Potatoes with Smoked Salmon, Chive Cream, and Salmon Roe 4 EDIBLE SEATTLE | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 EDIBLE SEATTLE | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 5 whole grain pantry From Ancient Fare to Holiday Flair Nutty, nutritious einkorn wheat begins a culinary tradition. STORY AND PHOTOS BY MEGAN GORDON 6 EDIBLE SEATTLE | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 hen it comes to getting into the kitchen during the holiday season, many DARK CHOCOLATE GINGERBREAD SCONES of us start to feel our With a deep, dark flavor, thanks to the maple syrup, brown sugar, and molasses, Wblood pressure rise. For me, it’s not so much these scones are an easy fit for the holiday morning table. They feature both crys - about family, timing dishes perfectly, or tallized and ground ginger and a generous handful of dark chocolate, so I’m making enough food, it’s more that every year guessing that even the scone skeptics in your life may pull up a chair. I feel like we don’t have our thing — the one Serves: 6 | Start to Finish: 75 minutes side dish we’re really known for, the winning way we always do a anksgiving turkey, or 2 1/2 cups (300g) all-purpose einkorn Using a pastry blender or your fin - the recipe we always prepare Christmas flour gertips, work the butter into the flour morning. Somehow, having our son two years 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar until it resembles a coarse meal. ago has only amplified this anxiety, with me 2 teaspoons baking powder all but convincing myself that our family has In a small bowl, whisk together milk, 1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda got to get its act together and get our food egg, maple syrup, and molasses. Pour 2 teaspoons ground ginger canon locked down. the liquid ingredients into the dry in - 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon gredients and fold together gently Of course, like all of you, we’re busy people, 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves until well combined. Fold in the and the reason our food canon is not locked 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt chocolate chunks and crystallized down is because I often wait until the week 5 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, ginger. cut into small cubes before the event to start making lists and Transfer the dough to a well-floured pacing the kitchen. en, more often than 1/3 cup whole milk surface and gather it into a ball (you not, I convince myself that there’s a lot to be 2 large eggs, divided will likely have to flour your hands, as said for trying a new recipe — so we gen - 1/4 cup real maple syrup the dough will be quite sticky). Pat the erally travel that road — and everyone leaves 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons molasses dough into a flat circle about 1 inch well-fed and happy, and I sit at the counter 1 1/4 cups dark chocolate chunks (at thick. Transfer to a plate and place in assuring myself that we’ll work on our food least 60% cacao) the freezer for 20 minutes. 3 tablespoons crystallized ginger, traditions next time around. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Remove finely chopped dough from freezer and slice into six Well, here we are again, and this year we’re 1 tablespoon coarse decorating sugar even triangle wedges. mixing it up — but deliberately so — with for topping (optional) this vibrant and delicious grain bowl and Beat the remaining egg with a table - these dangerously addictive scones, both Line 1 large baking sheet with spoon of water and brush the tops of made with einkorn. parchment paper and set aside. each scone with the egg wash. Sprinkle sugar on top if desired. Place If you haven’t heard of einkorn, it’s an ancient In a large bowl, whisk flour, brown scones on prepared baking sheet. sugar, baking powder, baking soda, wheat — actually, the earliest variety of culti - ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and salt. Bake 12–16 minutes or until scones are vated wheat. With as much protein as quinoa, golden brown. Remove pan from oven einkorn is the most nutritious of the wheat va - and transfer scones to a wire rack to rieties, and it’s said to be easier to digest than cool for at least 10 minutes before others, too. Cooked einkorn berries have a serving. Store leftovers in an airtight chewy texture, and the flour has a sweet, nutty container for up to 2 days or freeze for flavor, making both prime candidates for up to 3 months. mixing it up at the holiday table this year. You Vegetarian can find both einkorn berries and flour online, although thanks to its superior nutritional profile and growing popularity, more local re - tailers will start stocking it on store shelves Megan Gordon is a writer, recipe developer, culinary educator and small business con - (keep an eye on those bulk bins!). I’ll keep my sultant. She’s the founder of Marge Granola, a company specializing in crazy delicious whole fingers crossed for as much, and next year, grain cereals. When not baking and writing, Megan can be found at the beach with her we’re keeping these two in the rotation. Cheers husband Sam and toddler son, Oliver. to the (slow) building of a food canon. es EDIBLE SEATTLE | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 7 SHAVED BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND DELICATA SQUASH SALAD A fall, whole-grain salad is a must at our holiday table, and this one wins rave reviews for its maple-roasted squash and shaved Brussels sprouts. The fresh herbs bring the color, and the chopped hazelnuts bring the crunch. Even better the next day, this salad is always a great candidate for doubling, so your guests get to take home leftovers — or you can simply take advantage of having lunch ready for the next few days. Start to Finish: 90 minutes | Serves 6-8 For the Dressing: Preheat oven to 425°F. Place the squash and onion slices in a medium bowl and 1 clove garlic, finely minced drizzle with maple syrup and olive oil. 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss to 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard coat.