ter of 1994. The two provider focus groups included 16 employees from Sacramento agencies that provide ser- vices to individuals from the FSU. The six refugee focus groups included 35 adult refugees (mostly female) se- lected by six local agencies. We wanted people who had come to the United States after the fall of the Com- munist regime and who were knowl- edgeable of other people in the refugee community. In addition, a panel of key members of the FSU refugee commu- nity, selected by the researchers, pro- vided more than 20 consultations dur- ing the study. A matrix of consistent responses obtained among the focus groups was used to assess the validity of the data. Additional information was acquired during visits to homes of refugees, visits to newly established Food preparation can be a celebration for many women from the former Soviet Union, Russian grocery stores and participa- who enjoy their role as gatekeepers of dietary traditions. tion in religious celebrations (Romero- Gwynn et al. 1994). FSU refugees in Sacramento Refugees of former Soviet Most refugees from the FSU who settled in Sacramento prior to 1994 came from farming communities or small Union slowly adopt US. diet towns in the Slavic states or from the former Russian Central Asia region. The Eunice Romero-Gwynn o Yvonne Nicholson a Douglas Gwynn migration pattern to other sites in Cali- Holly Raynard o Nancy Kors a Peggy Agron o Jan Fleming fornia appears to be different. Lakshmi Sreenivasan The typical refugee family in Sacra- mento is large and often extended. It consists of a husband, wife, children The diet of refugees from the In the past decade, California has ex- (as many as 12 reported) and, very of- former Soviet Union living in perienced a post-Cold War influx of ten, parents of one or both spouses. Sacramento is characterized by a refugees from the former Soviet Union The husband and wife have at least an high reliance on grains, meats (FSU).Their increasing participation elementary education, and many of and dairy foods. While consump- in local health and nutrition services them hold advanced university de- tion of vegetables and fruits is in- has created the need for a greater un- grees. Some of the refugees participat- creasing in Sacramento, it still derstanding of their culture, particu- ing in our focus group were physicians, appears to be very low. High-fat larly their dietary patterns. As a first dentists, pharmacists and engineers. foods and salt-preserved foods step toward meeting this need, we Employment of the participants, at the are major components of the diet. conducted an exploratory study in time of this study, was very low. Poor Sacramento. Our primary objectives Families from the former Soviet English language skills appeared to be were to learn about traditional dietary the main limiting factor. Union living in Sacramento have practices in this group of refugees and not yet made major changes in about new practices they have Food preferences their food preparations and meal adopted in the United States. This in- The diet of people in the FSU has patterns. However, they are adopt- formation can be used as a basis for been influenced by geographic loca- ing a variety of new foods into providing nutrition counseling to new tion and numerous political and his- their traditional meals. While di- refugees from the FSU, and also serves torical events (Blanksteen 1974, etary acculturation among adults as a foundation for further quantita- Deutsch 1986, Gould-Marks 1963, Lih appears to be low, school-age tive studies. 1990). Invaders and traders from Asia children are rapidly becoming ac- We gathered data from focus and the Middle East introduced a vari- culturated and are consuming groups, two with service providers ety of foods, as well as different food American fast foods and snacks. and six with FSU refugees, in the win- preparation and preservation tech-

24 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, VOLUME 51, NUMBER 6 niques. Neighboring countries, par- include beets, carrots and potatoes. (1993) illustrates the Russian predilec- ticularly Sweden, Germany, Poland, Vegetables are primarily consumed in tion for cheese. Common Russian France and Greece, have influenced soups, stews and rice pilafs; they can cheeses include one similar to cottage the diet in the FSU at different times also be fried and used as stuffing for cheese and a semisoft cheese similar to and to different degrees. The French pirog, piroshki and other pastries feta cheese. While some families in influence on the Russian diet was sig- (Uvezian 1976, Sacharow 1989). Sacramento continue to prepare some nificant in the 18th century, when Pickling vegetables is a common of their traditional cheeses at home, Catherine I1 encouraged the hiring of practice among refugees in Sacra- many are buying American cheeses French cooks (Toomore 1992). Fasting mento. Broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, such as jack, mozzarella and some advocated by the Orthodox Church red cabbage and zucchini are veg- Mexican cheeses. (which calls for dietary restrictions to etables that refugees rarely consumed According to respondents, refugees be practiced on more than 100 days before immigration but consume in have greatly increased their consump- per year) appears to have also helped California. Frozen vegetables are gain- tion of all types of dairy foods in Sac- shape the dietary traditions in the FSU ing acceptance. ramento. Most of them prefer whole (Smith and Christian 1984, Toomore Fruits. Many of the focus-group milk, although some are buying low- 1992). participants praised the availability of fat milk. Although most people had Grains. The major food staples of fruits in American markets. Buying eaten commercially produced yogurt the FSU are grains, especially wheat, fresh fruits in winter was an amazing and ice cream in the FSU, they often originally introduced from the Middle experience for them. A participant expressed amazement at the variety East, and rice, introduced from Asia. from Tajikistan told the group, “I available in the United States. A new Barley, buckwheat, millet, oats and bought 6 kilos of oranges yesterday way of consuming cheese is in pizza, groats are also consumed. while it was close to freezing outside which is popular among both adults Chamberlain’s comment that the market.” Another participant and children. people from the FSU ”can live by said, “I have eaten more fruits in 6 Meats and fish. Most participants bread alone” (1982) underscores the months in Sacramento than in 28 expressed a strong preference for fish key role of bread in their diet. Tradi- years in Russia.” and a variety of fresh and preserved tional bread is the food most missed Strawberries, berries, apples, pears, meats. Fish is consumed fresh, salted by refugees in the markets in Sacra- watermelons and peaches were the and smoked or salted and dried. The mento. Many women prepare their most common fruits consumed in the participants’ consumption of fish has breads at home and often sell them to FSU. Fresh fruits were eaten during declined since they arrived in Sacra- other families. They are fond of freshly the growing season and fruit preserves mento, however, owing to the lack of baked, heavy, coarse bread, often (jam, jelly and cooked fruit) were con- Russian fish species and the high price made from whole grain flour. In addi- sumed throughout the year. Cooked of American fish. tion to bread, wheat flour is used to fruit-based drinks (compote and kisel) Goose (fresh and canned) was prepare a variety of foods made with were also common ways to use fruits widely consumed in the FSU, whereas batter or dough. Dumplings, different through the year. They continue to chicken is the most popular poultry types of pancakes, and ravioli-like consume traditional fruits and fruit consumed in Sacramento. It is pre- foods are very important in the diet. preserves in Sacramento. ”New” pared in many ways, including fried, Traditional foods based on wheat flour fruits, or fruits rarely consumed before cooked in soups or stews, and baked. include blini, pelmeni, pirog, piroshki, immigration, include pineapple, banana, Beef is usually minced and used in the and vareniki (see Glossary, p. 26). kiwifruit, mangoes and citrus fruits. Fro- stuffing for vegetables and pastries, Kasha is often prepared with whole zen fruit juice is also being used. and in a hamburgerlike dish (katleta). grains (buckwheat, wheat or oats) and Dairy foods. “Russians have a milk Beef is also used in stews, cooked in milk. While refugees in Sacramento complex...; they drink all the milk they rice pilaf (plov), fried or creamed with appear to be preserving many of their can get and they like it rich,” says sour cream. Pork and lamb are also traditional grain-based dishes, Ameri- Kropotkin (1993). People from the FSU well liked. can breakfast cereals are consumed in consume large amounts of fresh milk, Several participants expressed a place of traditional kasha. homemade soured milk, kefir, butter- great fondness for salami. In addition Vegetables. The long winters in milk, soft cheese, sour cream and but- to salami, other cold cuts and sausages the FSU limit the availability of fresh ter. Yogurt and ice cream are also con- are frequently enjoyed. Hot dogs, pas- vegetables and fruits. Pickling, a prac- sumed often. Fresh milk is usually trami, bologna, salami and ham are tice introduced to Russia by Asian in- boiled, then cooled and consumed eaten frequently in potato salad and vaders and traders, has been crucial in plain as a beverage or prepared with other dishes. maintaining a supply of basic veg- grains in kasha. Soured milk is con- Eggs are widely consumed. These etables yearround (Norman 1967). sumed plain or it is used in preparing are fried, prepared in omelets, hard- Pickled vegetables - including cab- a cold soup during the summer. boiled, and stuffed, as in Russian- bage, cucumbers and mushrooms - Kropotkin’s assertion that ”no well- style deviled eggs. Eggs are also in- are among favorite foods in the FSU. furnished supper table is complete cluded in breads and pastries. Raw Other commonly consumed vegetables without a generous cheese supply” (continued on page 27)

CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1997 25 26 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, VOLUME 51, NUMBER 6 (continued from page 25) “Americans have a large selection of “We did have formula in my home- eggs are also consumed. Health edu- foods, but they also have a lot of land, but we prefer breastfeeding.” cators are advised to discourage this dry foods, like chips.” ”Russian women breastfeed for as practice, particularly for infants, “In Sacramento, we can buy fruits long as possible. There is no rea- children, pregnant women and the and vegetables that were not son not to. The longer the better.” elderly. available in Russia.” ”In Sacramento, I breastfed my baby Fat sources. The refugees’ diet can “When we arrived here 3 months for 4 months.” be very high in fat. Butter, margarine ago during the winter, there ”I did not have enough milk [in Sac- and vegetable oil are extensively used were fresh fruits and vegetables in ramento], so I breastfed for only 3 in cooking. Sour cream and mayon- the market!” months.” naise, consumed almost daily, are Most refugees expressed pride in ”Not having enough breast milk” used in dressings and toppings. Raw their traditional diet and in their food is a syndrome associated with inad- pork fat, called salo, is often consumed preparation skills: equate breastfeeding techniques sliced on bread; it is also minced, fried “In our homeland, we make things used by the mother. and used as dressing for potatoes and ourselves. We bake our own Early feeding of cow‘s milk and other foods. Refugees rarely trim fat bread.” other supplementary foods to infants from poultry or other meats. They said “We like to eat soups; we use more was identified by participants as a their consumption of fat-rich foods has fluids in our meals. Maybe here, common practice. However, com- greatly increased in Sacramento. Fami- we are eating too little soup.” ments by refugees did not consistently lies are buying large amounts of the “I have noticed that they [Americans] identify whether this was a traditional fats they were already familiar with. In eat noncooked things for meals, or newly adopted practice. our home visits, we always observed like sandwiches; Americans do School-age children. Refugee commercial-sized containers of marga- not eat soups.” mothers are especially concerned rine, butter and sour cream. Commer- These statements reflect the high about the foods their children eat in cial salad dressing, nondairy creamer value the refugees placed on fresh school. They perceive ”school foods” and whipping cream are new sources foods, foods prepared at home and to be of poor nutritional quality. They of fat they have incorporated into their moist foods, particularly soups. To Rus- feel that a nutritious meal should in- diets in Sacramento. sians, soup symbolizes family, closeness clude soup. The following statements Sweets. Participants expressed a and security, as reflected in the Rus- illustrate their concern about their love for sugar-rich foods. Preparation sian proverb: “A house without soup children’s nutrition: of desserts, cakes and fruit jam and is an unlucky house” (Sacharow 1989). ”My children eat two meals in the jelly are traditional activities that con- school and when they come home tinue to be practiced in Sacramento. Diet and life cycle they don’t like our foods.” Jams and jellies are extensively used Pregnant women. Most pregnant ”At school they feed children too on breads, as filling or topping for refugee women do not significantly many dry foods like hamburgers pastries and as a sweetener for tea. change their diet during pregnancy. and pizza, but no soup.“ Sugar is commonly used to sweeten Most women do not consume alco- ”They also feed children cold milk; cold and hot beverages. Tea, the most holic beverages or coffee and do not we feed them warm milk, espe- common hot beverage, is often sweet- smoke cigarettes during pregnancy. cially if they have a sore throat.” ened with sugar or sipped through a Some participants indicated that doc- ”The foods that our children are eat- sugar cube (Chamberlain 1982). Refu- tors in the FSU favor limiting weight ing in the school are not moist; gee families in Sacramento are con- gain during pregnancy. Restriction of they are learning to eat dry suming more tea and eating more des- meats, breads and sweets may be foods!” serts than they did in the FSU so their recommended by doctors. Other par- Their concern regarding soup has sugar consumption has probably in- ticipants commented that doctors in some validity. Traditional soup can be creased as well. Many adults and Sacramento “say nothing about foods a meal in itself, often including whole school-age children quickly adopted to eat during pregnancy,” so “we do grains, vegetables and meats. The high soft drinks in place of the traditional what doctors advised in Russia.“ value placed on moist foods (that is, homemade beverages, kisel and com- Infants. Breastfeeding for about 1 soups and other traditional foods) sug- pote. Large bottles of soft drinks were year is the traditional practice in the gests the need to further explore be- often observed as part of the table set- FSU. The refugees practiced breast- liefs of hot-cold and dry-wet ideolo- ting at family celebrations. feeding in California, but for a shorter gies among refugees from the FSU. period of time. The following com- Elderly. Providers from local agen- Perceptions of U.S. diet ments were made during focus cies reported that chronic diseases - Refugees’ perceptions of diet and groups: particularly hypertension, obesity, the availability of food in the United ”In Russia, doctors don’t recommend heart disease, liver disease and diabe- States are reflected in the following formula; I breastfed my baby for 1 tes -were major problems among the sample of their statements: year.” elderly refugees. This was consistent

CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1997 27 with information given by two Rus- areas of nutrition and health concerns: Christian Center; Tanya Rybin, Soviet sian doctors in our focus groups. increased consumption of traditional Health Project, Lutheran Social Services; Many refugees expressed satisfaction and new sources of fats, new sources Yelena Lipshya, Y WCA-WIC Program; that in Sacramento they were able to of sugars, and high consumption of and Yekaterina Zaremba, homemaker from provide enough food and medicine for sodium-rich foods, such as salt- the Ukraine. their parents. preserved fish, cold cuts and pickled The support provided by Barbara Based on our observations during vegetables. We also recognized the Schneeman , Dean, College of Agriculture home visits, a decline in physical ac- need to promote greater consumption and Environmental Sciences, UC Davis, tivity can be a major health risk for the of fresh vegetables and fruits. Health- Carl Keen, Chairman, Nutrition Depart- refugees from the FSU. Most families ful dietary practices that should be ment, UC Davis, and Nicelma King, Di- have moved from heavy farm labor to supported include the preference for rector, Cooperative Extension, Northern a very sedentary life in small apart- whole grains and vegetable soups and Region, was invaluable in the completion ments in Sacramento. the high value placed on breastfeeding of this study. infants. Increasing refugees’ aware- Dietary recommendations ness of the value of physical activity The diet of new refugees from the for good health is of primary impor- former Soviet Union who have settled tance. Specific recommendations for References in Sacramento is varied. It is based on nutrition and health educators can be Blanksteen J. 1974. Nothing beets grain-based foods and dishes; a vari- found in other sources (Romero- borsch. New York Atheneum. ety of dairy foods, meats, eggs, pre- Gwynn et al. 1994, Romero-Gwynn et Chamberlain L. 1982. The food and served vegetables and fruits; and to al. 1997.) Larger studies are needed to cooking of Russia. New York: Penguin a lesser extent, fresh fruits and further assess dietary ideologies and Books. vegetables. practices, nutrition-related chronic dis- Deutsch R. 1986. The food revolu- At the time of this study, the tradi- eases, dental health and physical activ- tion in the Soviet Union and Eastern Eu- tional diet had not changed signifi- ity among refugees from the former rope. Boulder, CO Westview Press Inc. cantly. Basic family food preparations, Soviet Union. Gould-Marks M. 1963. Eating the meal schedules and overall composi- Russian way. San Francisco: Holt tion of the diet have not changed sig- E. Romero-Gwynn is Associate Clinical Rinehart and Winston. nificantly. The most significant dietary Professor, Division of International Kropotkin A. 1993. The best of Rus- change reported is the consumption of Health and Cross-cultural Medicine, sian cooking. New York: Hyppocrene familiar foods in larger quantities and School of Medicine, UC Sun Diego Books. with greater frequency. Numerous (Emeritus Nutrition Specialist, Depart- Lih L. 1990. Bread and authority in food items have been adopted and in- ment ofNutrition, UC Davis); Y. Russia, 1914-1921. Los Angeles: Uni- tegrated into traditional meals. New Nicholson is Family and Consumer Sci- versity of California Press. foods adopted by refugees include ence Advisor, UC Cooperative Extension, Norman B. 1967. The Russian cook- new types of cheese, ready-to-eat Sacramento County; D. Gwynn is book. New York: Bantam Books. breakfast cereals, several vegetables Codirector MEDGO International, Romero-Gwynn E, Nicholson Y, and fruits, soft drinks, chips, pizza, Escondido; H. Raynard is Graduate Stu- Gwynn D, et al. 1994. Dietary patterns salad dressing, whipping cream and dent, Slavic Studies, UCLA; N. Kors is di- of people from the former Soviet nondairy cream. Several traditional etitian in private practice, Sacramento; P. Union living in Sacramento: an explor- foods - buckwheat, Russian bread, Agron is Dietitian, Health Education atory study. Escondido, CA: California several varieties of Russian fish and Council, Project Lean, Sacramento; J. Center for Applied Research. kvas - are eaten less often or not at all Fleming is Dental Hygienist, County De- Romero-Gwynn E, Nicholson Y, because of their unavailability or high partment of Health Services, Sacramento; Gwynn D, et al. 1997. Dietary patterns price in Sacramento. Other foods are and L. Sreenivasan is EFNEP Program of refugees from the former Soviet being replaced by new American alter- Supervisor, UC Cooperative Extension, Union. Nutrition Today 32:153-6. natives. For example, kasha is being Sacramento County. Sacharow A. 1989. Classic Russian replaced by ready-to-eat breakfast ce- Special recognition is given to several cuisine. New York: Arcade Publishing. reals, and homemade beverages such agencies and in particular to the key infor- Smith R, Christian D. 1984. Bread as kisel and compote have been mants from the refugee community who and salt: a social and economic history largely replaced by commercial soft participated in the experts panel: Alla of food and drink in Russia. Cam- drinks. Rybing, homemaker from Tajikistan; lnna bridge, England: Cambridge Univer- Overall, refugees expressed the Kaliakin, Mills Jr. High School; Natalie sity Press. feeling that their diet has largely im- Wasilevsky, Salud Clinic, East Yo10 Toomore J. 1992. Classic Russian proved in Sacramento because of Health Services; Larisa Sasson, Jewish cooking. Bloomington: Indiana Press. greater access to a large and diverse Family Services; Mikhail Zarivny, World Uvezian S. 1976. Best foods of Rus- food supply in U.S. grocery stores. Relief; Olga Zaremba, American River sia. New York: Harcourt Brace However, we identified the following College; Seregee Shkurkin, Broderich Jovanovich.

28 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, VOLUME 51, NUMBER 6