Get High on the Wow Factor Page 24 Spring 2015

FOOD FANATICS FOOD FOOD PEOPLE MONEY & SENSE PLUS Regional Chinese Group Dining Fear of Failure I’ll Drink to That! The latest riffs revealed, Cash in on large parties, 7 nightmare busters, Gin is in, page 8 page 38 page 52 page 62 THE WOW FACTOR Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success

SPRING 2015 BLOWN AWAY GET HIGH ON THE WOW FACTOR PAGE 24 SPRING 2015

FOOD Real Chinese Steps Out 8 America’s regional Chinese cuisine gets ADVERTISEMENT back to its roots.

In the Raw 14 Tartare goes beyond beef, capers and PAGE 112 egg yolk. Tapping Into Maple Syrup 20 This natural sweetener breaks out of its morning routine.

COVER STORY The Wow Factor 24 When the ordinary becomes extraordinary. MAPLE FOOD PEOPLE SYRUP GOES BOTH Bigger Is Better 38 Master a group mentality to cash in on WAYS— large parties. SWEET AND SAVORY Talk Shop PAGE 20 40 Upping the minimum wage: thumbs up or thumbs down?

Road Trip to Las Vegas 44 Take a gamble on a restaurant off the strip. PREMIUM QUALITY SIGNATURE TASTE EXCEPTIONAL PERFORMANCE

Download the app on iTunes or view the MONEY & SENSE magazine online at FOODFANATICS.COM The Secret to the Upsell 48 A seasoned dining critic says to ditch selling and focus on service.

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©2015 Cargill Meat Solutions Corporation Food Fanatics is more than a magazine. It’s a movement of food people who share their love of food to inspire business success. The latest in food trends and industry matters comes alive in the FoodFanatics.com magazine, online, on the iPad and on social media. The Food Fanatics chefs share and expound on the content with fellow chefs and FOOD FANATICS FOR US FOODS Program Manager restaurateurs at their operations, seminars, food shows and other Jennifer Paulson Chefs thawsome! events—all to help achieve success. Curtis Adams, Salem, Missouri Tom Macrina, Philadelphia Nothing beats our premium thaw & serve bread products. John Byrne, Minneapolis Scott McCurdy, Denver Perry Canestraro, Baltimore Mike Miello, New York Matthew Dean, Chicago Rocco Paradiso, Fort Mill, South Carolina Welcome to the movement. Steven Grostick, Detroit Todd Pearson, Austin, Texas Matthew Green, San Diego Paul Sturkey, Cincinnati Josh Hoellein, Salt Lake City Joe Vargyas, Houston Rob Johnson, Oklahoma City Aaron Williams, Los Angeles

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Learn more at meyernaturalfoods.com • 1-888-586-2208 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 7 For Patricia Yeo’s duck confit fried rice recipe and others, go to FOODFANATICS.COM Will the Real Chinese Fo od

KUNG PAO BEEF. ORANGE cooking techniques. No longer are our chefs Please CHICKEN. MOO SHU PORK required to serve pedestrian egg or barbecue pork fried rice. Chefs are adding a bit of AND LO MEIN. THESE ARE glamour and sex appeal to Chinese cuisine, THE BASTARDIZED DISH- riffing on a classic cooking style with nontra- ditional ingredients. Step ES FOUND AT THE CORNER At Mission Chinese Food in New York and MOM-AND-POP CHINESE San Francisco, the fried rice comes with flakes JOINTS THAT HAVE BEEN of salt cod, a direct descendant of quintessen- Forward? tial Chinese home fare. Brunch guests at Fung HIJACKED AND POPULAR- Tu in New York can order jian bing, a crepe IZED BY CHAINS LIKE PANDA stuffed with garlic chive scrambled eggs, pick- America’s led cucumbers and watercress. EXPRESS AND P.F. CHANG’S. When I arrived at Khong River House in regional Asian THERE’S NOTHING WRONG Miami Beach (where I am now the executive WITH THESE DISHES— chef), I noticed a dish that pays homage to Chinese-American pork fried rice by pairing cuisine gets THEY’RE JUST NOT CHINESE. Duroc pork belly with Chinese sausage. In- The real state of Chinese cuisine in cit- stead of pieces of egg scrambled in the rice, the back to its ies with large Asian communities is quite dish is topped with a sunny-side up egg. And at different. In San Francisco, New York, To- Blue Ribbon in Las Vegas and New York, the roots ronto and Vancouver, dishes like rou jia mo, fried rice comes with oxtail. BY PATRICIA YEO Xian’s famous lamb burger, xiao long bao, These restaurants have an audience today Shanghainese soup dumplings, or hong shao because food, cuisine, culture and geography rou, red braised pork from Hunan, are as are evolving. China is now welcoming and ac- commonplace as General Tso’s chicken. cessible to foreign travel. We visit in droves, Is American-Chinese food getting a bringing back food experiences. In the ’70s makeover? As a Chinese chef, I think of it as and ’80s, you were hard-pressed to findgai a renaissance, a blossoming and awakening lan (Chinese broccoli), which is why we used of the artistic and intellectual component conventional broccoli with beef, leading to of Chinese cuisine. the explosion of beef and broccoli on every Chinese menu. Show Me Your Riffs Over time, with demand and an influx The kitchens of Chinese restaurants are at of Asian farmers, Chinese vegetables and the forefront of authentic ingredients and other ingredients became available. Second-

8 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 9 generation Asian chefs are straddling the line juicy dumplings and chewy noodles tossed to between the American cuisine they grew up order. Your meal will most likely arrive in a Jian Bing with with and the food Mum and Grandma cooked Styrofoam bowl or on a limp paper plate, but Garlic Chive Eggs at home. Chefs like Ming Tsai and Joanne the flavors will transport you to Chengdu or Chef-owner Jonathan Wu Chang in Boston and Anita Lo in New York Harbin. The prep, ingredients and flavors are Fung Tu, New York are part of this cadre, using ingredients from that authentic. 1½ cups jasmine rice their childhood with techniques learned from Chefs know it, too. On a previous trip to the ½ cup poha rice culinary school and their mentors. Golden Mall, I bumped into two celebrity chefs ½ cup chana dal trawling the food court—and they were not ¼ cup urad dal Don’t Turn Fusion into Confusion there together. n 1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds, divided Asian ingredients are being introduced into 1 cup water, divided use classic American staples. What could be Patricia Yeo, who is ethnic Chinese raised 2 eggs more American than a perfectly marbled, in Malaysia, has opened groundbreaking 1 tablespoon flowering garlic chives, chopped Salt to taste grilled New York strip steak? Now add uni restaurants in New York and Boston. She Canola oil as needed butter, like at Strip House (multiple loca- was a finalist on “Top Chef Masters” and Fava bean puree, recipe follows tions), and you’ve merged two cultures. published “Everyday Asian: Asian Flavors Pickled bok choy or cucumbers, Similarly, chefs are using wok tossing as part + Simple Techniques = 120 Mouthwatering your recipe of their food prep. Wok-tossed dishes like let- Recipes” (Macmillan) last year. tuce-wrapped chicken and bang-bang chicken Soak jasmine and poha rices in water overnight. and shrimp even appear on the menus of chains Separately soak both dals in water overnight. Drain and grind in food processor separately such as The Cheesecake Factory. with fenugreek, each with ½ cup water to form But is there a danger to this cross-cultur- a batter. Combine and let sit overnight in 80 F al fusion? If not used judiciously and with surroundings. some sensitivity, combining cultures can lead to confusion. At service, add water to batter to thin, if neces- Too many chefs pile on ingredients in an sary. On greased surface, make crepes, set aside. attempt to be cutting edge. I was warned as Beat eggs, add chives and salt. Thinly coat a a young chef by Bobby Flay that less is more. seasoned sauté pan with canola oil and scram- This is especially true when ingredients are THE BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE TO ble eggs. Add a smear of fava bean puree to the not a part of your usual food and flavor palate. crepe, top with eggs and fold. Serve with quick I heard an ad on the radio for a large chain ANY COOK IS TO EAT. VISIT YOUR pickled bok choy or cucumbers. Makes 1 serving recently touting its cheesesteak egg rolls, cran- LOCAL CHINATOWN OR LARGE ASIAN with remaining ingredients for about 8 more. berry teriyaki chicken and butternut squash cannelloni. You may find it appealing, but I am To make fava been puree: Sweat 2 teaspoons SUPERMARKET. IT WILL STIMULATE each of chopped garlic, ginger and green onion just plain confused. Is it New England, Italian YOUR SIGHT, HEARING AND DEFINITELY in 1 tablespoon oil. Add 2 cups dried fava beans or Asian? and enough kombu stock to cover. Cook until Incongruous flavors thrown together in the YOUR OLFACTORY SENSES. tender and drain, reserving stock. Puree, adding pursuit of creativity and innovation strike me stock as needed to thin paste. Finish with salt and as heavy-handed. Korean fermented chili paste to taste.

Eat Your Way to Authenticity The best advice I can give to any cook is to eat. Visit your local Chinatown or large Asian supermarket. It will stimulate your sight, hearing and definitely your olfactory senses. Aside from visiting China, the next best option is Flushing, New York. In the borough of Chef Jonathan Wu of Queens, Flushing now has the largest authentic New York’s Fung Tu fills jian bing, a crepe that Chinatown in the country. hails from northern China, In the basement food courts of malls like the with scrambled eggs and Flushing Mall or Golden Mall, you will find contrasting flavors.

10 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 ginger and garlic are also Sichuan’s Get Your culinary features. The food in the landlocked region Chinese of Hunan, on the other hand, is dark and rich, redolent of fermented black Straight beans and long braises. Here’s a cheat sheet The other three northern culinary regions are characterized by their to China’s regional use of wheat in the form of steamed buns, shaved or hand-pulled wheat differences noodles and tart-spicy flavors. There are great similarities in the cuisines of Eight fairly distinct regions of China the three southern regions of Guang- make up the cuisine of the Han dong. Fujian and Zhejiang, with Chinese, about 92 percent of the Cantonese cuisine prevailing. country’s 1.39 billion people. Han Chinese are the principal ethnic Of the non-Han Chinese cuisines, group native to East Asia, the group Uighur in the Xinjiang province is we simply think of as “Chinese.” probably the most familiar. Unlike all other Chinese cuisines, the food of The remaining 8 percent consists of this predominantly Muslim region ethnic groups like the Muslim Uighur is halal. The Uighurs have more in in the Xinjiang province, the southern common culturally and linguistically minority tribes in Yunnan, Tibetans with the Turks and Uzbeks, which is (Xizang) and the descendants of the reflected in their cuisine. They bake a Mongols in northern China. round, flat, bagel-like bread sprinkled with sesame called girde nan, a close Much like Italian cuisine is divided cousin of the Turkish simit. Spices like by “butter-based” regions of the cumin, fennel seeds and dried pep- north and “olive oil-based” regions pers are prevalent, and lamb and goat in the south, Chinese cuisine is are the chief sources of meat. similarly split by environmental differences. Noodles, dumplings South China’s regions of Yunnan to and steamed buns are the norm the west and Guizhou to the north of in the colder regions of northern Guangxi are made up predominantly China dominated by wheat. In the of the Bai, Dai, Miao, Naxi and Hani mi- warmer, lusher south, rice is king. norities. The food of these areas bears Rice is eaten at every meal and great similarities to their closest culinary ground into flour as an ingredient and cultural neighbors, Vietnam, Laos for noodles, dumpling wrappers and the Isaan region of Thailand. Sticky and crepes. rice, wild mushrooms, fish sauce and sour and spicy flavors are the marks Of the eight culinary regions, of this region. Instead of using spices Sichuan, Hunan and Guangdong to flavor their food, herbs like cilantro, (Cantonese) are the most renowned. basil and mint are used liberally along Shandong, Jiangsu and Anhui in with incendiary scud chilies, tiny chilies the north, and Fujian and Zhejiang we commonly think of as Thai chilies. provinces in the south comprise the lesser-known regions. The final minority grouping consists of the nomadic and pastoral people of Most people are familiar with the Tibet and Mongolia. The food reflects spicy, ma la (mouth-numbing) the hostile and bleak environment of qualities of Sichuan peppers—a their homeland. These are also the hallmark of the cuisine. This is just Chinese regions where dairy is com- one aspect of Sichuan’s food. Fiery monly used in the form of yak butter, chili oils, fish-flavored eggplant cheese and yogurt. and pickled chilies simmered with — Patricia Yeo

12 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 13 Tartare goes beyond beef, capers and egg yolk BY ANTHONY TODD

In the BEEF TARTARE WAS ONCE A DISH TO BE FEARED; ADVENTUROUS FEASTERS DARED EACH OTHER TO ORDER THE RARE APPETIZ- ER. TODAY, IT’S ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR DISHES ON MENUS ACROSS AMERICA. But beef isn’t the only ingredient chopped Beef heart tartare, $10 and seasoned for tartare. Chefs are experi- Chef-partner Brad Spence, menting with alternate proteins like salmon, Amis, Philadelphia venison and offal—even substituting vegeta- Inspiration: A whole animal tartare bles. Different ingredients and techniques Why it’s different: Spence uses beef at Amis, but not in the traditional way. “Beef heart is a great are spiked with texture enhancers like fit for tartare,” he says. “It’s very lean—raw beef fat isn’t really something you’d want to eat. Working deep-fried quinoa and cracked bulgur for that muscles are going to be more flavorful. (And) there is not a lot of connective tissue, allowing for extra pop. total utilization.” Working with raw ingredients requires Traditional garnishes receive slight twists. Capers are fried instead of served raw. Red onions, instead of being chopped and folded in, are pickled. a strong eye toward food safety, but adding “Raw heart is like a challenge,” Spence says. “It’s guaranteed to spark some kind of emotion, RAW tartare to the menu can be a boon to the whether it’s good or bad. Once you try it and realize how tasty it is, heart isn’t that challenging at all.” kitchen. The dish is quick to prepare, uses Tartare is a cost-effective menu item at Amis because a little bit goes a long way. Restaurants smaller portions of meat and leaves room can charge half the price of a steak for a smaller portion of meat, which makes sense for a first for creativity. Here are five ways to go raw. course. Plus, “it’s a dish you can assemble quickly so that makes it a bit easier,” Spence says.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 15 For all the tartare recipes, go to FOODFANATICS.COM

Alaskan King Salmon Belly Tartare, $18 Executive Chef Michael Ferraro, Delicatessen, New York Inspiration: Classic crab cocktail Why it’s different: Tuna tartare has gotten a bit stale, which is why Ferraro has moved on to another fish: salmon. After sampling seafood throughout Alaska, he settled on a version that’s like a state advertisement on a plate, featuring salmon and king crab. “I chose to prepare the Alaskan king salmon as a tartare because it’s rich, and fresh flavor is showcased much better when served raw,” Ferraro says. Salmon tartare serves as a base, topped with crab and salmon roe. Accoutrements lean traditional (capers, shallots, chives), but slow-roasted tomatoes add contrast. What will you SM Alaskan King Salmon Belly Tartare Executive Chef Michael Ferraro make of it? 1 Roma tomato Peel, deseed and quarter tomato. Toss with 1 table- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use spoon olive oil, thyme, ½ teaspoon shallot and 2 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped season with salt and pepper. Place on baking sheet Make your place the place to be. With Pace® Picante Sauce, it’s easy to create 1 tablespoon shallot, minced and slow roast in preheated 225 F oven for 25 Kosher salt and pepper to taste countless crave-worthy dishes that keep patrons coming back – from a savory minutes. Cool and chop finely. breakfast skillet to a fresh twist on fish and chips. Find menu ideas and 5 ounces Alaskan king salmon belly, finely chopped In a small mixing bowl over ice, combine salm- inspiration at CampbellsFoodservice.com 1½ teaspoons minced chive on belly, chives, remaining shallots, capers and 1½ teaspoons capers, chopped tomatoes. Add remaining olive oil and juice of half ½ lemon ™ lemon; set aside. Combine mayonnaise with garlic PREPARE TO BE AMAZING 1 teaspoon mayonnaise and toss with crab; gently fold into salmon. Season ½ garlic clove, minced with salt and pepper; garnish with roe. Makes 2 ounces Alaskan king crab leg two servings. ½ tablespoon Alaskan king salmon roe

16 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 17

Route# Date: Prod AD Proofer/Writer AE CD Studio Billing # CMM27140 Tracking # CMM27791 Cr. Director S. Martineau File Name Bleed 9.25 x 10.75" Art Director M. Sullivan CMM27791_MealMakers_Street_FoodFanatics_Ads.ai CMYK Pub: Food Fanatics Trim 9" x 10.5" Copy Writer S. Martineau Initial Keyline Date: 6.24.14 (Full Ad) Account J. Smith Live 8.5" x 10" 1 RO 6.25.14 Production A. Wood Product: Street PACE SIZE TEAM

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Keyliner R. Ortiz Slug Created: 1/31/12 Printed @ 100% Unless Indicated Borscht Tartare, $10 Chef Yehuda Sichel, Abe Fisher, Philadelphia Inspiration: A visual play on chopped beef Why it’s different: It’s meatless. While working on a crab cake with smoked sable, Sichel created a concoction of grated beets and horseradish as a condiment. “The owners liked it so much that they thought it was worth a whole dish,” Sichel says. When plated, it looks exactly like beef tartare, so they decided to run with it. Marinated, salt-roasted beets are grated and served like Venison tartare, $11 beef tartare with olive oil, chives, shallots and hard-cooked Venison Tartare Jared Van Camp, Nellcôte, Chef-owner Jared Van Camp egg. To give it that borscht twist, it’s served with smoked Chicago trout caviar, housemade sour cream and onion potato chips. Inspiration: Charred venison tartare at 2 ounces venison leg, diced The innovative presentation even draws in the veggie haters. WD-50 in New York 1 tablespoon mustard aioli “Most of the time when there are beets on a menu, they’re in Why it’s different: Van Camp uses ¼ teaspoon preserved lemon, minced a salad with goat cheese—this is so different,” Sichel says. farmed venison, which is slightly less ½ teaspoon Picholine olives, minced gamey. Standard tartare ingredients like ½ teaspoon parsley, chopped mustard, capers and shallots are topped ¼ teaspoon shallot, minced with smoked egg yolks cured in salt Salt to taste and grated finely over the top using a Garnishes to follow microplane. Instead of breadcrumbs, he Combine venison, aioli, preserved lemon, spikes the dish with deep-fried quinoa. olives, parsley, and shallot. Season with salt. “It’s a great little textural thing,” he says. Unfortunately, the tartare is not a Center tartare mix on a round plate. Sprinkle high-margin dish, especially when it’s with garnishes: cooked and fried quinoa, accompanied by big pieces of rustic chopped espelette (dried Basque chile), bread made from house-milled flour. But grated smoked egg yolk, frisee tossed with the dish is so popular, it’s not coming off lemon vinaigrette and grilled country bread. the menu any time soon, Van Camp says. Makes 1 serving.

Kibbe Naya, $10 Sous Chef Dean Hildebrand, Zahav, Philadelphia Inspiration: A traditional Middle Eastern standby Why it’s different: Lamb is the main ingredient. Zahav’s tartare is a take on kibbe naya, a mix of raw ground lamb and spices found throughout the Middle East. Hildebrand freshly grinds whole saddles of lamb, including the spine, belly loin and tenderloin. The meat is peppered with seasonal touches such as small-diced apples, pickled shallots with brown sumac, parsley and mint. Bloomed bulgur wheat and ground walnuts are added for texture. It’s served with a traditional Yemenite condiment called skhug made up as a spicy, raw blend of chilies, garlic, vinegar, salt and parsley. He says the prix fixe small plate menu structure has a lot to do with diners’ willingness to eat raw lamb. “Some people would be intimidated by having a plate of raw lamb in front of them. But since they’re ordering five to six plates on the tasting menu, it’s easier,” says Hildebrand. Whole lamb saddles are pricier investments that require more work, but he says it’s worth it. “It tastes better and it’s easier to enjoy.” n

Anthony Todd is a practicing lawyer and freelance food writer.

18 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 19 The Little Nell serves a flight of maple syrup at breakfast.

BY HEATHER LALLEY Later, breakfast. Maple syrup is setting its says. “When we’re selling something on the sights way past the morning menu. The won- floor, it’s about the story, how you came up derfully nuanced ingredient is flowing into with something.” BIG TIP lunch, dinner—and even the cocktail bar. “We’re using it in…all different aspects of Opposites Attract cooking as a sweetener substitute or a back- Maple syrup plays into the much-practiced Compared with conventional ground flavor note,” says Bryan Moscatello, salty-sweet paradigm of cooking. Executive syrup that might have additives, chef of The Little Nell in Aspen, Colorado. Chef Christopher Cipollone of Piora in New small-batch maple syrup is heav- ily concentrated. Cooking it down His list includes braising, glazing, curing York marinates a 40-ounce prime dry-aged will alter the flavor. Consider and pickling. cote de boeuf with Blis bourbon barrel-aged high-quality maple as more of a Over the last few years, maple syrup produc- maple syrup, garlic, chili flakes and herbs. The finishing ingredient, or add it near ers have been experimenting with barrel aging, sugar from the syrup encourages the char, add- the end of cooking. adding flavors and inventive techniques. Such ing yet another layer of flavor. methods, which lend even greater dimension “It adds a unique sweetness that pairs well to maple syrup, have piqued the interest of with the dry-aged flavor,” Cipollone says of the chefs. Producers and chefs are increasingly dish, which is accompanied by a rosemary- working together to develop innovative maple maple hollandaise. syrup variations. Maple syrup, brown sugar and balsamic vinegar work as the foil for the thick-cut bacon that Roll out the Barrels Chef-owner Josh Hanson makes at Spanky’s Wood barrel aging is becoming a method-of- Stone Hearth in Frazee, Minnesota. the-moment that imparts caramelized flavors Foods “that aren’t overpowering themselves” of charred wood sugars and hints of whatever is pair best with maple syrup, such as chicken, swooshed in the container, such as beer or spir- pork and vanilla ice cream, Hanson says. He its (see sidebar). serves a maple-amaretto glazed chicken breast Tim Burton of Burton’s Maplewood Farm and also adds syrup to his housemade sausages. in Medora, Indiana, has gained prominence for his specialty barrel-aged maple syrup. Dickie Brennan, owner of several iconic New Orleans restaurants, including his eponymous steakhouse, asked Burton to create a Tabasco-infused maple syrup aged in a Wood- ford Reserve barrel. Burton also aged a special batch for The Lit- tle Nell in an oak barrel from Colorado-based Breckenridge Distillery. At the chef’s request, Burton sent the used oak staves back to the restaurant. They were infused in cream for a custard that Moscatello served at a James Beard dinner. “(The syrup) reflects the flavor profile from where we are in the mountains,” Moscatello

20 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 21 Maple syrup mixed with carbonated water has become a signa- Kick Sugar to the Curb ture beverage at the Angry Trout Cafe. Maple syrup is enjoying the spot long held by sugar, the ingredient chefs rely on for balance. However, it provides a few interesting notes that sugar lacks. At the Angry Trout Cafe in Grand Marais, Minnesota, maple syrup balances the Dijon mustard salad dressing and sweetens barbecue sauce and layer cakes. A sprinkle of sugar is often tossed into yeast to help with the rise. But at Parker Pie Company in West Glov- Maple Syrup er, Vermont, Deep Mountain ginger-maple syrup goes Layer Cake in the crust, and maple syrup is drizzled on the Green Pastry Chef Misha Martin Mountain Special (a pizza with cheddar, bacon, spinach, For the Angry Trout Cafe, onion and apples). Grand Marais,Minnesota

Cocktail Culture 4 cups sifted cake flour, divided use Maple syrup has become the go-to sweetener for mix- 2 teaspoons baking powder ologists, especially for barrel aging and added flavors ¾ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt like vanilla. 2¾ cups sugar, divided use Fearing’s restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton in Dallas 11 ounces unsalted butter, softened, features barrel-aged cocktails with maple syrup. The divided use Caught Red-Handed combines Treaty Oak Red Hand- 10 eggs, divided use ed whiskey, housemade sweet and sour, maple syrup, 1½ cups buttermilk muddled Luxardo cherries and mint. 1 teaspoon vanilla At Spanky’s, the bar serves a frozen cocktail of Baileys 1½ cups whole milk 2¼ cups dark maple syrup, divided use Irish Cream, maple syrup and Nocello blended with ice 1 tablespoon corn syrup cream as well as a maple Manhattan with syrup standing Toasted pecans, as needed in for the traditional vermouth. Maple sugar, as needed Maple syrup also shows up in the cocktail program at Prohibition Pig in Waterbury, Vermont. Court Jest- Combine 3¾ cups flour, baking powder, er’s Demise unites Maker’s Mark, maple, lemon, Fernet baking soda and salt; set aside. Beat 2¼ cups Branca and bitters. sugar into 9 ounces butter for 4 minutes. And for teetotalers? The Angry Trout Cafe serves Add 4 whole eggs, one at a time. Beat 2 more minutes. maple syrup soda, a simple blend of maple and carbonated water. Combine buttermilk and vanilla; beat a third into butter-egg mixture, alternating with dry Still, Breakfast ingredients until combined. Pour batter into Just because maple syrup has broken out of the breakfast two 9-inch round greased pans dusted with mold doesn’t mean it’s missing in action. Vermont produces the most maple syr- More producers, however, are aging flour. Bake in preheated 350F oven 30 to 40 minutes or until toothpick inserted comes Moscatello offers a flight of maple syrups with break- up in the country but flavor differences syrup, often in barrels once used between the northern state and trees for bourbon, beer or other alcoholic out clean; cool. fast. One is aged in a bourbon barrel, another is infused in the Midwest are up to debate. beverages. with bourbon and a third is spiked with vanilla. To make custard filling, bring milk to boil; In Chicago, Chef-owner Kevin Hickey of Bottlefork Real variation comes in after the sap is Burton ages syrup in a variety of add remaining ½ cup sugar and flour and serves cast-iron baked French toast with a seasonal fruit collected from the tree. bourbon barrels as well as blackberry whisk into 6 egg yolks. Return to medium compote and sweet cream. Diners don’t think twice whiskey, peach brandy, red wine and heat, bring to a boil and simmer until thick- about the $2 charge for barrel-aged Burton maple syrup. Producers can reduce sap in an beer barrels. ened. Add ½ cup maple syrup; whisk in 2 evaporator over a wood fire or heat ounces butter; refrigerate. “The market for maple syrup is growing,” says Matt from fuel oil. Tim Burton, who has He also uses a huge, custom-de- Gordon, executive director of the Vermont Maple Sugar produced syrup at his Burton’s Ma- signed Rumford fireplace for his To assemble, halve each layer. Drizzle ¼ cup Makers Association. “We’re seeing production ramp up. plewood Farm in southern Indiana for barrel-aged syrups. He pushes each maple syrup on first layer. Cover ¼-inch thick There’s a renaissance right now of local food production about seven years, prefers the control barrel as close to the fire as possible with custard. Add next layer; repeat. in specialty foods. There’s the story behind maple, the sap of gas heat. He then runs his evapora- without burning the wood, to raise that springs right from a tree, that magical element.” n tor on low for five or 10 minutes to let the internal temperature more than To make frosting, beat 6 egg whites until the syrup caramelize. 30 degrees above the ambient air frothy. Heat 1 cup dark maple syrup and 1 temperature. This causes expansion tablespoon corn syrup to 240F. With mixer Heather Lalley is a Chicago-based freelance food Once reduced, the syrup can be and contraction of the oak staves on high, slowly drizzle the syrup into the writer and author of “The Chicago Homegrown Cook- graded and bottled. Typically, the dark- which, Burton says, extracts even whites and beat until the mixture is fluffy. book.” She likes her maple syrup warm and aged in a er the syrup (without additives), the more flavor from the barrels and into Garnish with pecans and maple sugar. Makes bourbon barrel. more flavorful. his syrup. 8 to 10 servings.

22 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 Get recipes that wow at FOODFANATICS.COM

THE

FA TO WIN THE REALITY TELEVISION CTOR SHOW "PROJECT RUNWAY," A DESIGNER NEEDS TO CRE- ATE CLOTHES WITH MAJOR WOW FACTOR—OR SO SAYS THE SHOW’S CHIEF MENTOR, TIM GUNN. THE RESTAURANT When the WORLD IS NOT SO DIFFERENT. FOR A CHEF TO BUILD A FOL- ordinary LOWING, IT HELPS TO HAVE A becomes DISH THAT KEEPS CUSTOMERS COMING BACK FOR MORE. extraordinary A dish that wows “tends to be punchy,” explains BY KATE LEAHY Chef-owner Johanna Ware of Smallwares in Portland, Oregon. An unusual but harmonious combination of flavors or textures can impress, too, she says. Creating dishes that strike an addictive balance between salt, sweet, acidity and heat requires a bit of trial and error—and luck. But what separates a good dish from a wow factor moment is the audience reaction. Bar Tartine dehydrates “If you walk away and you can’t get that dish out yogurt and pulveriz- of your head, you will tell other people about it,” says es it into powder for a Ware. For chefs, “it’s the best free press you can get.” wow factor. Finger limes (opposite page) grown in Australia and California, add pops of acidity with their pearl-like pulp.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 25 Get Creative With Acidity A splash of lemon juice or vinegar is a sure way to brighten flavors. But when acidity is integrated into a dish in a new way, it can wow even more. At Bar Tartine in San Francisco, chefs Cort- ney Burns and Nick Balla searched for an ingredient to brighten a wilted kale and rye bread salad served on strained yogurt and spiced sunflower tahini. Yogurt powder did the trick. Burns makes the powder from drying yogurt in a dehydrator, breaking it up as it dries, and then pulverizing it in a blender. The dish has since become one of the few that never leaves the menu. “You get the unctuousness, the creaminess and that acidity that rounds it all out,” Burns says. At Restaurant 1833 in the Stokes Adobe house in Monterey, California, former Executive Chef Abby Burk knows all about the power of acidity. “It gets your mouth watering and makes you want more,” she says. She used lime juice to punch up a sweet corn soup poured tableside over mole and a sesame crumble, then garnished with finger limes, a citrus variety that contains pulp re- sembling caviar. “It’s one of my favorite ingredients,” she says, adding that she uses finger lime pulp for oys- ters, too. “It’s acidic, aromatic and has a really fun texture.”

Break a Few Rules Kyle McClelland, corporate executive chef of Dallas-based Misery Loves Co., which operates Driftwood and Proof+Pantry, questions cli- ched guidelines. “Everyone says you can’t serve cheese with seafood,” McClelland says. “For me, it’s a challenge.” To take down the “no cheese with fish” rule, TELL ME he served a seared skate wing at a special dinner with braised cabbage and sprouted lentils A STORY prepared like risotto: cooked slowly with shallots, bacon and stock and then thickened at the end with a creamy washed-rind cheese. The guests were blown away. Sometimes customers might need a little con- Marshmallows are also somewhat taboo—or vincing to get the wow factor. And if the chef at least unusual—in savory dishes. But Mc- has time to work his or her magic, the diner can Clelland leverages them as a smear of charred become a customer for life. “When I had my onion marshmallows alongside bone marrow restaurant, Prospect, in New York, I had a popular with hazelnut gremolata and tomato jam. squash soup with a root beer cream, marsh- Sometimes diners are skeptical. “But then mallows and toasted hazelnuts,” says chef Kyle McClelland of Misery Loves Co. One guest told they eat it and say, ‘Oh, my God, it’s amaz- me she hated hazelnuts. I asked: ‘Can I just try to Hot Cakes Molten ing,’” he says. “It’s not that sweet, and it all serve it to you?’ I served her that soup. She said, Chocolate Cakery comes together.” ‘Wow. It works. It tastes so good.’ I love when I’m smokes chocolate standing there and they’re saying, ‘Wow.’” for the wow factor. 26 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 Engage the Wait Staff Martin has since expanded beyond mol- Menus can’t always speak for themselves, ac- ten-chocolate cakes, selling cookies and knowledges Deb Paquette, chef and co-owner s'mores kits with smoked chocolate, boozy of Etch in Nashville, Tennessee. milkshakes and a rotating selection of car- Take Paquette’s crudo ratatouille, which amel sauces infused with preserved lemon changes with the season. In one version, she or foraged nettles. But every new item still dehydrates raw eggplant and blends it with needs to blow her customers away. The suc- salt, shaving in ribbons of raw zucchini, fennel cessful ones earn an “Oh Wow!” stamp on and carrots. She polishes it off with a bright their packaging. If they fall short, it’s back to sauce of charred red bell peppers, tomatoes the drawing board. and smoked paprika, anchored by sunflower “If a flavor or a new product that I’m working hummus and a garnish of micro basil. Diners on does not evoke an awesome response, then are wowed by the bright flavors, but sometimes it is not worth putting out, even if I’m wowed by they first need to be sold on the idea . it,” she says. n “You have to train your wait staff to be part Anatomy of Wow of your wow factor,” she says. “The guarantee Kate Leahy, an Oakland, California-based to the customer is that they’re going to like it.” freelance writer, is wowed by the simple things, When chef-partner Brett Cooper Before Ware presents a new dish, it under- like the elusive, perfectly seasoned salad. drafted the first menu for his San goes a tasting panel of servers. If they leave Francisco restaurant, Aster, he a few bites on the plate, she decides the dish focused on creating dishes with isn’t ready for prime time and doesn’t put it balance. “You need an acid, some Ratatouille Crudo sweetness and some kind of heat,” on the menu. Chef Deb Paquette, Etch, Nashville, Tennessee says Cooper. Other times, she unexpectedly gets rave 1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced In this preparation, a slow-cooked reviews about a dish, such as her grilled 1 medium zucchini, thinly sliced egg yolk with caramelized sunchokes lobster mushrooms experiment. The mush- 1 medium yellow squash, thinly sliced breaks on the plate, turning into a rich rooms were seasoned with cardamom, clove, 1 large carrot, thinly sliced sauce for the nutty, sweet vegetable. chili flakes and dried Persian limes. After 5 button mushrooms, thinly sliced It's balanced by fermented chili paste, they were grilled, Ware tossed them in onion 2 cups arugula pickled apples and crisp chicken skin. pickling liquid, soy sauce and olive oil and ½ cup Parmesan cheese, shaved Take a closer look: then served them atop a walnut puree. Ware ½ cup Italian parsley leaves was so focused on getting the mushrooms 6 basil leaves, chiffonade Richness to taste smoky and rich, like bacon, that she ¼ cup garlic oil ✩ Egg yolks and olive oil sit in a water overlooked the appeal the dish would have 2 tablespoons capers bath circulating at 150 F for about 50 ½ teaspoon salt minutes; rest in the oil. for non-meat eaters. 1 teaspoon black pepper “I presented it at lineup, and one of the Pea pesto, recipe follows Sweetness servers said, ‘Oh, it’s vegan!’ They were really Red bell pepper essence, recipe follows ✩ Sunchokes are scrubbed (but not into it,” she says. peeled) and cut into 2-inch pieces. Gently toss vegetables with arugula, cheese and Marinate in muscovado sugar, salt herbs. Mix in oil, capers, salt and pepper. and olive oil for 30 minutes. Capitalize on Wow Recognizing when you have a hit on your hands ✩ To plate, smear pea pesto in a half-circle on one side Roast at 425 F for 20 minutes. Stir is just as important as creating new dishes. occasionally and continue roasting of plate. Gently mold vegetable mixture on the plate until caramelized and soft. In 2008, when Autumn Martin first served slightly covering the pesto. On the other side, squirt molten chocolate cakes baked in mason several dots of red bell pepper essence. Acidity jars at a charity dinner, the dessert took the ✩ Pickle diced Granny Smith apples guests by surprise. The cake, made solely Makes 2 servings. in apple cider vinegar, champagne with chocolate, eggs, sugar and sea salt, was vinegar and a pinch of salt and To make pea pesto, cook and shock 1 cup fresh velvety, rich and warm—nothing like the lava sugar. peas in salted water. Puree with 2 tablespoons cakes served on salad plates with raspberry Heat each of melted butter, water, truffle oil, olive oil, coulis circa 1995. ¼ teaspoon salt and pinch of cayenne. Push ✩ Gochujang (fermented chili paste) “People literally said, ‘This is amazing, a cake through sieve. is smeared in a circle on a plate. in a mason jar—oh, wow!’” says Martin. Plating The response encouraged Martin, a Seat- To make red bell pepper essence, drain liquid ✩ Sunchokes are mounded on the tle-based chocolatier, to start a side business from 28-ounce can diced tomatoes and oven dry gochujang with an indentation. in preheated 350 F oven until dry to the touch. selling her bake-in-a-jar cakes at farmers Puree until smooth with 1 roasted red bell pepper, ✩ An egg yolk is nestled on top. markets. That led to the opening of Hot Cakes ¼ cup garlic oil, 2 garlic cloves, ¼ cup canola oil, 1 ✩ Apples, crisp chicken skin and red Molten Chocolate Cakery in 2012, with an- teaspoon smoked paprika, salt as needed and pinch sorrel leaves finish the plate. other location slated for this year. of cayenne.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 29 TREND TRACKER The heat index on food trends

Tropical Caribbean Pass the flavors have pastrami! customers Jewish deli dreaming of foods get summer. cheffed up.

No jackets required: Low-octane Chinese Fine dining is forced Ticketed aperitif cocktails cuisine is to loosen up. reservations are the new undergoing move from bar stars. a regional Customers care about fine dining renaissance. your restaurant website. into the Why don’t you? mainstream.

WARMING UP ON FIRE COOLING OFF

With all the Duck tempts chefs new tech Too much of to come to the dark available, a good thing? side of poultry. good ol’ Southern food fashioned starts to feel hospitality is played out. still in vogue. Rising beef costs still won’t stop the steakhouse explosion.

The shift away Chefs clamor from gendered for show-off Talking trash marketing stalls at about cus- proves sex food halls. tomers and doesn’t competitors on always sell. social media is

never cool. HAM. COURTESY OF THE FAT PHOTO Use that green thumb to make a custom restaurant garden.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 31 FOOD PEOPLE Voices from the industry

THE MOVEMENT Eat and Learn COMING TO A CITY NEAR YOU Use staff discounts to reinforce your brand

When was the last time you got excited about a food show? Right now. The Food Fanatics® movement has created an energy and excitement like nothing else in the food industry. We just keep getting bigger and more inspired. So join us at any of our 2015 Food Fanatics Live™ shows. We’ll bring the best together – for you.

No Such Thing as a MOST RESTAURANTS COOK A DAILY COMPED MEAL FOR STAFF—BUT WHAT ABOUT WHEN THEY’RE OFF THE CLOCK? Free Lunch Discounting meals for employees is a standard practice for many restaurants. No doubt, it’s a perk and breeds goodwill...... For example, Red Lobster discounts meals for employees and up to seven guests, while Bertucci’s employees receive up to $100 Give employee worth of dine-in or take-out food each month. But the discount should have an ulterior motive: the chance to meals a purpose create restaurant ambassadors among employees, their friends and family. *** “Our staff has to know the food, period,” says co-owner Michelle Baker, who opened The Refinery with her husband, Greg, in Tampa, By Kate Bernot Florida. “Our customers have a lot of questions. Feeding our staff from the menu allows them to answer questions quickly and accurately and make recommendations.” The Bakers offer their staff of 33 a 20 percent discount when they Photography By Andrew Reilly dine on their days off. The Refinery’s menu can change as often as

four times a week, depending on produce and meat availability from Waypoint Public farmers, so dishes are also presented in the evening after a shift. in San Diego (all John Pani, partner in San Diego’s Waypoint Public gastropub, photos) discounts says total comps run a bit higher than he’d its meals by 25 like, at 4.5 percent of revenue. But he says dis- percent for staff. counting meals by 25 percent for his nearly 40 employees is well worth the cost. “It’s part of our sales and marketing budget,” Pani says. “It’s something you have to offer because employees measure that when they consider where to work. They also see the floor from a different perspective (when they eat at the restaurant off the clock)—where the hang-ups are—and they can learn from it.” Pani applies the discount to the table, not just what the employee orders. “Our staff is young, social and very much a part of the demographic that we are attracting,” he says, adding that word of mouth from the guests of employees is invaluable. Owners, however, need to measure the costs and benefits to ensure that employee comps work for a restaurant’s specific size and schedule. When Laura van Heijningen and her husband, Tom, opened 43-seat Blue Jacket bar and restaurant in Milwaukee in 2012 they began with a handful of employees. Within two years, staff grew to 25 to accommodate a busier seven-days-a-week dinner service and weekend brunch. As staff grew, van Heijningen implemented an across-the- foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 35 board discount of 50 percent for employees and their friends. Last year, Blue Jacket eliminated brunch and reduced dinner service to five nights a week to return to the intimate, prep-in- tensive restaurant that they originally imagined. Now, with a staff of 11 full-time employees, Blue Jacket doesn’t see a need for employee discounting, which has saved money. Staff experiences new dishes during pre-shift meetings. “Now we all work Tuesday through Saturday. On Sunday and Monday, we’re closed and we all have our lives,” van Heijningen says. “When we had almost 30 employees, our comps would be running up to 6 percent. If you’re grossing $60,000 to $75,000 a month, you’ve got $4,500 out the door for comps.” No matter the formula, discounting meals for workers emphasizes a staff-first ethos. “For front of house, obviously, it helps them when customers have questions and the menu changes so quickly,” says Baker. “For back of house, they’re the ones who are making it, and they should be able to eat that food as well. Who cares if it’s a really expensive cut FEEDING OUR STAFF FROM THE MENU ALLOWS THEM TO ANSWER QUESTIONS of steak? We want our staff to be just as important as our customers.” n QUICKLY AND ACCURATELY AND MAKE RECOMMENDATIONS. —Co-owner Michelle Baker of The Refinery

Chef de cuisine Caleb Kate Bernot is a Phoenix-based food and Ayres preps dishes for beverage writer and associate editor at the staff to sample. Draft magazine.

36 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 37 BY NEVIN MARTELL

Minimizing Impact Group dining can quickly put the kitchen in Think Large Increasing the bottom line with group dining the weeds, and when food comes out late, ev- or large parties is not rocket science. Here's a eryone loses. “Most restaurants will seat as cheat sheet: many people as they can, not accounting for whether the kitchen or the service staff can ◊ Create the role actually handle it,” says Sandeep Kothary, Hire an event planner or designate a manager to owner of Atlanta’s upscale contemporary handle group dining. Choose someone who has Indian restaurant Tabla. “We limit the oth- the interest and desire to tackle the challenge. Consider a quarterly commission as an incentive. er number of guests and reservations at that time to compensate.” ◊ Be a personal shopper It’s a delicate balance to strike. “It requires No one wants the hassle of picking up balloons a lot of communication from the sales team or remembering table decorations. Offer these to the operations team,” says Matchbox's services, working in the price or adding Carman. “For me, it’s about finding the times a surcharge. during the week when our business is lighter.” ◊ Cater to kids Chefs recommend options that can be If the concept allows, host parties for 12 and prepped and held or batched out. A la min- under. Encourage parents to attend by making ute options like steak on a Saturday night for sure the bar is open and adults can order off a party of 25 that orders at 7 p.m. will wreak the menu. havoc on the line. Monetizing the 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. slot on week- ◊ Host nonprofits that attract high-income IS BETTER patrons days can be lucrative as long as the dinner prep MASTER A GROUP MENTALITY TO CASH IN ON LARGE PARTIES Special interest groups such as charities, alumni during those hours is taken into consideration. groups or civic organizations are always looking Small parties are perfectly acceptable, but in The customer wants to feel assured, accommo- “It’s the end of the day when people want to for event space. Use the event to show off the the dining room, size matters. Accommodat- dated—even pampered—before and during the get out of the office,” Carman says, “but it still restaurant and gain new diners. ing large groups, buyouts and special events event. That’s what leads to referrals. allows them to get home to their families at a like rehearsal dinners and corporate gather- “A lot of this business comes from word of reasonable hour.” ◊ Specialize in the category Create a niche and be known for it, such as ings can equal big bucks. mouth,” says Allison Gallese, director of events wedding packages and rehearsal dinners. What’s the sweet spot for drawing in group for Osteria Via Stato in Chicago. “And you can’t It’s All About the Space diners? Four factors: winning over the custom- pay for marketing like that.” Beating competitors is often a space race. ◊ Encourage referrals er, nailing the price point, smooth execution Larger spaces sell bigger parties. Six distinct Word of mouth is priceless. Ask for a quote that and a space that fits the crowd. The Price of Success rooms—accommodating a dozen to 150 peo- can be used in marketing materials or on the Offer a tiered menu approach, restaurateurs say, ple—make up the private dining options at DB restaurant’s website. Entice clients—and their Tapping In with plenty of options and customization. Always Bistro Moderne. The restaurant also has a sec- referrals—with comps for appetizers or dessert that they can redeem when they return for a ond kitchen. “We rely on private groups and While social media reaches the masses, enlist the chef, who can create menus with food regular meal. old-fashioned methods still work best, oper- and labor costs in mind. Vegetable-inspired ap- banquets,” says Andrew Kutz, assistant general ators say. petizers will cost less than beef or seafood, while manager, “so there is an option for parties of ◊ Offer deals Price packages slightly lower (or include more “We do email blasts, Facebook outreach pasta works as a low-cost filler for chicken dishes every size.” Group dining and reservations for large parties and in-house advertising,” says Sherry instead of an entree. Tabla’s Kothary wishes he had such options offerings) during slower evenings or off- can net big bucks for restaurants. Joseph, director of national sales for Del That said, a customer planning a wedding re- available. “We regret not having a private din- peak times. Frisco’s Restaurant Group, which includes hearsal dinner or a buyout for a bar mitzvah does ing room,” he says, “because we always get Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House not want to feel frugal. phone calls for private events.” and Sullivan’s Steakhouse. “But cold calls “I don’t like to turn anyone away,” says Aaron But Kothary can offer semi-private dining in are still the most effective method as long Rentfrew, general manager of Trio Grill in Falls his 70-seat restaurant by cordoning off sections as you’ve sent a pre-emptive letter. It’s the Church, Virginia. “So I try to stay flexible with of the restaurant, including the bar. Creatively BIG TIP tried-and-true stuff that works.” group dining arrangements and always have a slid- dividing the room and promoting slower nights The human connection usually seals the ing scale of menu options.” have increased private dining to 20 percent of A LOT OF THIS BUSINESS COMES FROM WORD deal, agrees Yuka Carman, who oversees DB Bistro Moderne in Miami takes a similar sales, he says. How do you price a buyout? private dining and events for Matchbox, approach by offering options at a variety of price Whether it’s for a dozen people gathering for OF MOUTH…YOU CAN’T PAY FOR MARKETING Always have a minimum, one that Ted’s Bulletin and other concepts owned points. Lunch for group diners starts at $39, and a birthday party or a high school reunion, group calculates labor costs and food LIKE THAT. and drink sales on the night that’s n by Washington, D.C.-based Matchbox Food dinner at $75. However, hosts have the option of dining always has room to grow. —Allison Gallese of Osteria Via Stato being sold. Don’t forget to include Group. “It’s all about personal outreach, paying $125 or more per person for higher-end a gratuity for staff and any ad- sales calls and talking to businesses in the elements, such as passed canapes and top-shelf Nevin Martell is a Washington, D.C.-based ditional charges, such as special area,” she says. liquor packages. freelance food and travel writer and author. linens and rental items.

38 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 39 TALK SHOP Geoff Tracy Chef-owner of Chef Geoff’s and Lia’s, multiple locations, Washington, D.C., area Backstory: Undergraduate degree in theology, graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, chairman of the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Upping the Washington. “I personally support a raise to the minimum wage on hourly employ- Minimum ees. However, I disagree with the idea of raising it for tipped employees. Tipped employees are different because the law guarantees they will make the base minimum wage. If they don’t make it, the employer is re- Wage: Thumbs quired to cover the difference. I’ve heard the argument that the minimum wage needs to be raised for all employees because some employers aren’t making up that difference. If there are restaurant owners breaking the law, they should be Up or Down? prosecuted. Are there people out there like that? Yes. However, I can’t BY NEVIN MARTELL do anything about people who pay their staff under the table. Our tipped employees make on average $27 an hour, so you’re fighting for a group that’s already making more money than the minimum wage. An increase to the minimum wage for all employ- THE DEBATE OVER RAISING ees would be a substantial impact to the bottom line. I might not be able to sustain those costs either, and the restaurant might go out THE FEDERAL MINIMUM WAGE Angela Stowell Co-owner and chief financial officer of Ethan Stowell Restaurants, of business, so nobody makes anything. REMAINS A HOT ONE, ESPE- including How to Cook a Wolf, Seattle When this issue came up in D.C., city council member Vincent Orange CIALLY IN THE HOSPITALITY proposed a raise for tipped employees. When I sat down with him and Backstory: President of the Seattle Restaurant Alliance, the other representatives, he admitted he didn’t fully understand how INDUSTRY—THE NATION’S former server and wine salesperson. the tipped employee payment system works. Once he understood it, he SECOND LARGEST PRIVATE came around to our side. D.C. did increase the minimum wage to $9.50 for non-tipped employ- “Nothing like what is happening here in Seattle has been done be- SECTOR EMPLOYER. MANY ees recently and it will continue to go up. It does need to increase over fore. We’re going from $9.32 to $15 an hour minimum wage (over time. I’m not sure I want it to be $20 an hour, but the increases they came up RESTAURATEURS SAY AN three to seven years depending on the size of the business). With with were relatively reasonable based on the cost of living over the years.” INCREASE WILL FORCE THEM the increase, restaurants are going to have to change the way they TO RAISE PRICES AND LAY- do business, so food prices are likely to go up. We’re considering implementing a charge in the form of an au- OFF STAFF. OTHERS SAY THE tomatically added 18 to 20 percent service charge (not the same as ISSUES ARE OVERSIMPLIFIED, a gratuity). That way we can equitably distribute tips between all THAT ACROSS THE BOARD employees in the front and the back of the house. The hang-up for me is that we have many tipped employees HIKES WON'T HELP EVERYONE, making far more than the minimum wage. Our servers make more AND THAT $7.25 AN HOUR IS than $30 an hour. We have some bartenders who make $80,000 a year. So let’s pay the people that really need it, such as the cooks. NOT A LIVABLE WAGE. The cooks cap out at $17 until they go to management, so a raise to Four industry professionals weigh the minimum wage won’t help them. This whole movement came from workers for big, corporate in on the issue and share how an in- fast food restaurants, which is far from the reality of our restau- crease might impact operations. rants. Our business is so different than the fast food nation this legislation was geared towards. We’ve been lumped into an arena with some bad actors. We always have been in support of a fair minimum wage. We have an income inequality issue that’s a national problem. Every- one in this country should earn at least $10.10 an hour. We do need to start taking care of our communities, our neighbors and the people whose kids go to our schools.”

40 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 41 Nicolas Jammet Co-founder and Co-CEO of Sweetgreen, nationwide locations Backstory: Healthy concept in six states emphasizing sustainability and menus featuring local and organic ingredients. Founded in 2007 with college friends.

“On July 1, 2014, Sweetgreen raised its starting wage across all of the markets in which it participates to not only match, but exceed, federal and state-mandated minimum wages. We’re a growing company that’s rapidly expanding. As we look at what it looks like to be an employee of Sweetgreen and we evaluate the wages we pay, we realized that we wanted to be a little more progressive and make sure the wages fit the job. If we really want to become a best-in- class place to work, we have to make sure the wages we pay reflect that. We want to attract incredible team members as we continue to grow. Our growth is 100 percent fueled by people. We can find the real estate and we have great financial partners, but the people are the key. We had the (U.S.) Secretary of Labor for lunch at Sweetgreen to talk about this issue, and the idea of a national minimum wage is something we support. We think that’s fair and we’re always going to stay ahead of it. It’s something we believe in, which is why we raised our starting wages early. In the end, we don’t see it as a cost; we see it as an investment. It’s going to make our employees happier, keep them with us longer and attract better employees as we grow. In the end, that will help our stores earn more money.” Erik Forsberg Owner of Devil’s Advocate, Minneapolis Backstory: Former president of a clothing design and manufacturing company. Previously owned the Ugly Mug in Minneapolis.

“Minimum wage has gone up to $8 an hour, and in 2016 it’ll be $9.50. After that, it will be tied to inflation. This has been a hot, on- going issue for a long time. I’m not in favor of having this high of a minimum wage. In our industry it’s a very different issue than many other industries, because none of my employees make minimum wage. There is not a single hourly, non-tipped employee who makes minimum wage. I wouldn’t be able to keep employees if that’s all I paid; they wouldn’t work here. On the other hand, I have employees in the kitchen who should be paid more. For back of the house workers, this is their career. And there is absolutely no way we can afford to pay our back of the house people more money when we keep giving the front of the house people more money. We work in a thin margin business, so any extra pressure has a dramatic effect. We can’t absorb those costs as easily as other industries. On top of that, menu prices are rising at my restaurant and industrywide in Minnesota. The Minnesota Restaurant Association has developed a pro- ductive compromise by introducing the idea of a tiered minimum wage. When it goes up in the future, it only goes up for non-tipped employees. Tipped employees will stay at the $8 an hour it is currently. However, if a tipped employee makes less than $12 an hour with wages and tips, the business owner would make up the difference. We feel it’s a very fair compromise and a model that should be considered on a federal level.”

42 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 FOOD FANATICS ROAD TRIP! Hitch a ride with us

THE HIGHLIGHTS

Heritage Steak Tom Colicchio’s steak joint nails it with this must-go outpost inside the Mirage. Great food from the wood-burning oven. The walls stocked with spare firewood adds to the ambiance. You’d never know you were in a casino.

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Sage/Five-50 Shawn McClain left the Windy City at the height of his career and found resounding success Las Vegas with farm-to-table Sage and pizza joint Five-50. Twist When it comes to dining in Las Vegas, it’s easy to get swal- Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist is worth forking over lowed up by the gastronomical glitz and star power. Just the Franklins. Las Vegas is the only U.S. city about every celebrity chef—good and not-so-good—has an where this well-known Frenchman has an epic restaurant outside of his homeland, putting this outpost here. on every chef’s bucket list. Wolfgang Puck was the first to break ground in the early ’90s. By the end of the decade, the arrival of Charlie Palm- er’s Aureole and Julian Serrano’s Picasso paved the way for FOOD FANATIC Vegas to be known for more than the steam table buffet. Today, Vegas dining reads like a roster of Who’s Who, Steven Grostick is a Food Fanatics chef from Detroit for from eponymous restaurants by Michael Mina and Joël Insiders rave about Archi’s Thai Kitchen, US Foods who’s as passionate Robuchon to offshoot concepts by Thomas Keller and Mi- which prides itself on being straight Thai. If about the biz today as when chel Richard. But as the rest of the country turned toward lunch or late night has you jonesing for a burg- he started 20 years ago. more casual dining in recent years, so did Vegas. er, check out Bachi Burger. The menu features Those same Big Name Chefs now have burger joints: some wacky combinations like a banh-mi burg- Bobby Flay, Mario Batali, Gordon Ramsay and Lau- er (pork, lemongrass and shrimp) in addition to Get Chef Steven’s recipe rent Tourondel. classic grass-fed and wagyu beef. that won the World Chefs Challenge in Vegas at While Vegas has more celebrity chef swag than any As new construction in Vegas grows outside FOODFANATICS.COM other city in the world, culinary cred lives outside of the the confines of hotel casinos, expect more casu- casinos. In fact, no trip to Sin City is legit unless a meal al options off the strip. No matter where you go,

happens off the strip. Chances are, that off-strip meal the odds of good dining options will always be in BY TIM MARRS ILLUSTRATION will be much kinder to your wallet. your favor. n 44 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 USF ADS_Layout 1 12/8/14 4:32 PM Page 1

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PrincipleS foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 47 they don’t care,” says Matt Schneider, general manager of Celeste in Chicago. “They don’t train their staff right or train them at all. There’s a level of disdain on their face that they have to serve you. Any customer can sense that right away.” Others attempt to upsell through false THE REAL camaraderie, which grates even more. But the good servers, the ones who know SECRET how to lead without alienating me, can point me toward the priciest dishes and I listen. How do they do that? Let’s go back TO THE to basics. Once mastered, it’s not upselling. It’s good service. UPSELL AS THE CHIEF DINING A SEASONED DINING CRITIC CRITIC AT “CHICAGO” Know the Menu MAGAZINE, I SPEND MORE “Knowledge is the base for the upsell,” says SAYS DITCH SELLING AND Obadiah Ostergard, president of Au Bon TIME WITH WAITERS THAN Repas Restaurant Group in San Francis- FOCUS ON SERVICE I DO WITH MY PARENTS. co (Claudine, Gitane, Gaspar Brasserie). “If the waiter has that natural knowledge, I KNOW ALL OF THEIR it’s an organic conversation.” That waiter TRICKS AND EVERY WEAK- doesn’t shift into auto mode when asked for advice. NESS THEY TRY TO HIDE He has more than just a surface under- BUT NEVER QUITE CAN. standing of the offerings and can make If your staff thinks the menu is a joke and informed recommendations rather than the executive chef is a shameless ego mer- rote ones. A good bartender would never chant, I know this before the first course say, “Would you like a shot with that beer?” arrives. If your employees despise their “He’s not just going to sell you a shot,” customers, they give it away before water is says Schneider. “He’s going to sell you the even poured. right shot.” And I certainly know when a server is trying to upsell me. “Oh, you’re interested in Read the Guest BY JEFF RUBY that cabernet ($34)? Well, then you’ll love The best servers change their service PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEAN MCGILL this pinot ($46).” according to each table. They’re tuned I know what you’re doing. Maybe you in to their customers’ body language, don’t care that I know. You’ve got per- and not just the obvious stuff like the centages to make. But you’re treating me couple with an early show to get to or like your personal ATM, interchangeable the group eternally huddled in conver- from the ATMs seated at the next table. sation. They sense if the guest wants to I don’t want to be treated better than the lead the experience or be led and they other guy. I want to be treated like I’m adjust accordingly. Diners notice the not interchangeable. And—news flash—I personalization. won’t be back if I feel manipulated. Nor “The ultimate goal is to read your guests will I encourage diners to check you out. and understand what they want from the Short of blatantly rolling your eyes and experience,” says William Douillet of At- sighing loudly, there is no quicker way to era in New York. “At that point your server alienate a diner than by cynically trying can sell anything.” to squeeze an extra couple of dollars out of them. Think Big Picture So why do some operators allow this kind Upselling goes beyond the here and now. of service? “A lot of places upsell because “The smart upsell isn’t just pointing out Staff at Celeste in Chicago, all photos, succeed at service and selling from knowing every apsect of the dining experience.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 49 Bistro Collection™ Never Say This When Taking Pre-cut Cakes An Order

➝ “Everything on the menu is terrif- ic.” Maybe so, but saying this is no BONICI® Toppings more helpful than saying everything is terrible. Instead, pick a few stand- outs and explain why they’re worth the money. ibp Trusted Excellence™ Flat Iron Steak ➝ “Would you like dessert?” Yes, desserts help increase your overall per person average, but that doesn’t mean you should make the transaction so impersonal. Try something ® like: “Let me tell you about one dish Tyson ® Red Label™ Ball Park Franks our pastry chef is really proud of.” Grilled Strips ➝ “Tap water, sparkling or still?” F There is a time and place for up- rom One selling. The first words out of your staff’s mouth is not it. People who drink sparkling water will make it abundantly clear. Hillshire Farm® Sausage Trusted Source. ➝ “Oh, the risotto is our most popular dish.” No one cares what’s popular. They care what your staff, as experts of this restaurant, thinks higher priced items,” says John Burke, gen- Translate the Kitchen’s Passion is good. eral manager of Zocalo in Kansas City, Mis- It’s not enough to love the food coming out of souri. “It is making sure the guests return the kitchen. A server needs to be able to say why again and again.” it’s good, which starts with understanding how Mexican Original® Instead of fixating on selling that extra ap- it’s made. At Gaspar Brasserie in San Francisco, ® Corn Tortilla Chips Wright Brand petizer or dessert, Burke works to create and pastry chef Charles Dugo constructs a straw- PATRONS LIKE STORIES BECAUSE Bacon maintain an environment that “supports the berry and pistachio French wedding cake with overall selling effort.” pistachio mousseline and toasted financier. Its IT DEEPENS THEIR APPRECIATION. If the restaurant and staff play the part, cus- production is time-consuming and intense. —Obadiah Ostergard of Au Bon Repas tomers will be comfortable spending more. In “It has a great story and we make it clear that Restaurant Group Chef Pierre® Luxe Layers® Pre-sliced Pies turn, servers will work to keep the restaurant it’s an amazing offering that’s not to be missed,” looking and feeling great. says Ostergard. “Patrons like stories because it deepens their appreciation.” Get Creative In many restaurants, money is the subtext to all Put Yourself in My Shoes Jimmy Dean® conversations between staff and customer. It is The best service is rooted in empathy. A server Whole Grain Breakfast Stick a give-and-take that Brad Bolt, managing part- should essentially say: I know everything there ® ner of Bar DeVille in Chicago, calls “the dance.” is to know about this restaurant and this is Sara Lee Muffins ® Bolt encourages his staff to engage in a dialogue what I would do if I were you. Jimmy Dean Blazin’ Hot® with customers and gauge their interest with- If that service can be established, upselling Breakfast Sandwich out pushing. feels less like a server-guest dynamic and more Lady Aster® “You feel them out,” says Bolt. “What do they like two friends sharing a conversation about a Chicken Cordon Bleu want to spend? Then you let them know why great bottle of wine. it costs what it costs and there is a good reason “Once complete confidence is achieved, serv- for it. Upselling works as long as there is a per- ers can be themselves—they can be riotously ceived value.” funny, they can break rules, they can be pas- MORE trusted brands. MORE great products. If you can figure out different ways to broach sionate and compelling,” says Douillet. “Then the subject, go for it. Bolt worked with a waiter it’s up to the server to put your money where ONE great company. who routinely asked customers, “Do you feel their mouth is.” n like driving a 3-series, 5-series or 7-series to- night?” It worked, because the guy connected Jeff Ruby is the chief dining critic for Chicago with his guests. magazine, a freelance writer and author.

Come see how our family is growing at TysonFoodService.com. thecornertableblog.com 50 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 ©2014 Tyson Foods, Inc. Trademarks and registered trademarks are owned by Tyson Foods, Inc. or its subsidiaries.

TFS_FoodFanatics_Ad_FA.indd 1 1/14/15 2:32 PM “The problem with running a restaurant is that you have to be constantly innovating,” says Trish Watlington, owner of the Red Door restaurant and Wellington Steak in San Diego. “You can never rest on your laurels. There’s always that inner voice saying, ‘What are we going to do tomorrow? What reasons are we going to give people to come next week?’” NIGHTMARE Managing food costs, attracting repeat customers and increasing traffic are the three most common worries, according to foodservice research firm Datassential. But restaurant owners interviewed across the country cite nagging concerns over a host of other issues as Busters well. Here are their insights. 7 ways to combat the most Fear: Losing regulars to the latest new restaurants Solution: Unique loyalty programs that connect with diners on common restaurant fears an emotional level Service standards will always matter. Creating BY PETER GIANOPULOS • ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN TODD a policy that compels servers to log customer preferences, their children’s names and other SOLO DINER OWNER OR MULTI- anecdotal information is free and helps cement customer loyalties. CONCEPT RESTAURANT MOGUL, ALL In fact, building a unique loyalty program can RESTAURATEURS FACE NERVE-WRACK- pay huge dividends, says Abraham Merchant, CEO ING, DOWNRIGHT NIGHTMARE-INDUC- of New York-based Merchant Hospitality Group. At his beer-focused Clinton Hall, customers join ING FEARS. THEY’RE EVER-PRESENT, A the restaurant’s Reserve Society, which gives them LAUNDRY LIST OF COMMON WORRIES, access to sample and buy rare small-batch beers, attend special beer parties and enjoy exclusive cel- DAY IN AND DAY OUT. lar brews. “People can buy a beer and a burger any- They may not surface after consecutive months of increased where,” says Merchant. “It’s the personal touches sales. But all it takes is one slower-than-usual Saturday night and that people remember and keep them coming back.” those fears bubble right back up.

Fear: Lower profits because of rising labor costs, shifting regula- tions and evolving health insurance issues Solution: Think outside the industry John Kunkel, CEO of Miami-based 50 Eggs restaurant group, has a saying: “If you’re not reading, you’re not leading.” He shares and discusses thought leadership and business articles with his chefs, front of house staff and executive teams. Kunkel recommends joining a local business or- ganization composed largely of executives who are not in the restaurant industry because solutions aren’t exclusive to the food world. “You want to form a group of peers that you can learn from and bounce ideas off of,” says Kunkel. “It can make a difference.”

52 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 iHELP Be efficient and tech savvy at the same time Fear: Losing loyalty and staff And work with your waitstaff on telling a good Solution: Create better incentives yarn. At Proof + Pantry in Dallas, co-owner Mi- insist their vendors supply that A Multi-tiered Approach Experiment with new ways to incentiv- chael Martensen tells his staff to compare the Open Secrets to them,” Litan says. “If they say Employing a layered approach ize great work. David Rowland, director of restaurant’s unique family-style dining to a trip they won’t, switch vendors. It’s is the most effective protection, food and beverage at the Louisville Marriott to Grandmother’s house and share stories with Advice for chefs that important.” says John Pearson, director of Downtown, says millennials prefer schedule diners about the farmers and purveyors. “At thinking about the jump data security and compliance for perks, such as the freedom to dictate their the end of the day,” says Martensen, “we’re still to restaurant owner Isolate Your POS transaction technology provid- hours, more than small pay incentives. in the entertainment business. People love a Eliminating remote access for er NCR. A security plan should Also try creating incentives built around great story.” your POS system—so it’s on its own include encryption, firewalls and social media results—better Yelp reviews or network and not attached to any tight passwords. TripAdvisor scores—that can build camara- Wi-Fi or other administrative net- “All systems, including POS derie around a shared goal. Fear: Insufficient funds to invest back into the business work—also deters data intrusion. systems, regardless of provider, “Millennials often want to be autonomous, Solution: Crowdfunding and social media “The Secret Service has iden- can be targeted by malicious which is often confused with independence. Leverage the power of social media and Got the itch to have more creative say tified remote access as one of software,” he says. “Following one They want to work as a team but will hold the crowdfunding. As Steve “Nookie” Postal was and control? Once you’re a chef-owner, everyday fears can increase exponen- the major causes of breaches in or two guidelines is not enough to individuals in the team accountable for the preparing to open his restaurant-market tially. Keep these tips in mind before restaurants and small businesses secure your environment.” ultimate success of the group,” says Rowland. hybrid Commonwealth in Boston, he wrote a taking the next steps. today,” says David Matthews, Operators shouldn’t scrimp on “Getting that positive guest feedback can be weekly blog explaining his philosophies and executive vice president and network security, Dunaway says. really important to them.” ideas. Social media posts followed, but his Kick- » Connect with a local alderman or general counsel for the National “Credit card processing is com- starter campaign was his most daring move, neighborhood representative to Restaurant Association. “If a user plicated so you need to constantly an effort that raised $70,000 and generated a understand—and make key connec- can dial into a POS system from monitor and evaluate and work Fear: Becoming irrelevant flood of media attention. Existing restaurants tions—in the community where you will set down roots. a remote location, that’s an open with a professional. While it may Solution: Keep the best of the past, but update the inte- can use crowdfunding to finance expansion, » If you’re taking on a partner, get a invitation to get into your system seem expensive, it’s a lot less rior and dishes upgrade equipment and make other capital good lawyer and make sure your and steal data.” expensive than a breach can po- When a restaurant’s glory days are all but improvements. His one piece of advice: Think share of the business is clear and set To identify breaches as early tentially be to the merchant. Just a distant memory, how does it reinvent itself big. Nookie gave away everything from $25 bar- in an airtight contract. as possible, Matthews suggests because you can take someone’s to increase sales without alienating its core becue rubs to a $10,000 pig roast for 100 people. » Create as detailed a budget as restaurants scan their networks credit card, swipe it through a ma- customers? The big prizes paid the biggest dividends. possible. Talk to other restaurateurs so you can factor in hidden costs. Ex- on a regular basis for unautho- chine and get your money the next In 1991, Shareef Malnik took over his pect the best but plan for the worst. Are You Safe? rized intrusions or abnormal day doesn’t mean you’re safe.” n father’s legendary restaurant The Forge, » Don’t cut corners on your insurance. system behavior. with its well-heeled but aging clientele, Fear: Compromising quality to keep up with increasing Protect your POS system from security breaches Lawsuits are often an unavoidable “You don’t see a broken win- and transformed it into one of the hippest food costs aspect of the business. BY PAULA ANDRUSS dow or an unlocked door,” he spots in Miami Beach. In 2009, he closed Solution: Cut waste, buy in bulk, buy in season and pre- » Do your homework in terms of says. “If (restaurants) don’t do the restaurant and completely renovated serve foods where to source your products. When national retailers, govern- technology research and advi- regular scans, the first time many it. “You have to divorce yourself from emo- Most kitchens realize the dangers of food Know volume needs and who is capable of meeting those needs. ment databases and celebrity sory company. people know they’ve been hacked Never Too Safe tional considerations,” says Malnik. “Ev- waste. Pickling, smoking and preserving allows photos make headlines for elec- “They’re not focused on it or is when they get a call from law eryone has a different opinion on what you restaurants to buy in larger quantities when Experts suggest these additional tronic data breaches, it’s easy equipped to deal with it, and they enforcement or from a customer need to keep and change, so follow your the price is right and avoid markups. But con- tactics to help safeguard a restau- to think hackers are only after typically use vendors that don’t saying their information has rant’s POS system. own vision.” sider taking the idea of “farm to table” literally. splashy targets. invest much in security,” Litan says. been compromised.” You might have an iconic dish, but are peo- Trish Watlington, owner of Red Door The reality is food and beverage To combat hackers, experts rec- Craig Dunaway, president of ❱ Change all default passwords and ple ordering it? Can you dress it up in a way Restaurant and Wine Bar and The Welling- institute a strong password control ranks as the second most fre- ommend a variety of safeguards Cincinnati-based Penn Station that is fresh but still reminds them of the past? ton Steak and Martini Lounge in San Diego, policy among employees. quently compromised industry, designed to keep restaurant net- East Coast Subs, has taken that Remember the power of a well-placed hom- grows produce on her own farmland. She according to Trustwave’s “2014 works from becoming vulnerable. measure one step further after age. If you have iconic paneling and sconces, recommends working with farmers to con- ❱ Update software and virus Global Security Report.” In fact, Employ a point-to-point pay- suffering a breach in 2011. protection programs regularly as The Forge did, can you update them but tract or lease plots of their land or arrange for point of sale (POS) breaches ment encryption system, Litan The company’s systems are to identify and combat the most keep their feel? Can you move from classic to them to grow products to specifications and accounted for 33 percent of its says. This encrypts the data inside monitored 24/7. Even though recent viruses and malware. classically modern? Honor but replace. quantities, which also provides marketing investigations. a POS card reader until it reaches its restaurants are individually fodder for promotions. ❱ Train staff to be aware of those Restaurants are particularly the payment processor. If hacked, owned, Penn Station has given the For his Carnitas Snack Shack in San Diego who tamper with the card reader susceptible to data intrusions the information would have no monitoring company a list of ap- Fear: Empty seats Hanis Cavin embraced a similar philosophy, equipment. because they generally have value because it would not contain proved sites for transmitting data. Solution: Tell your story sourcing his pigs from a local rancher. “I know limited time, knowledge and any card numbers or personal “If they see any deviation, ❱ Install a strong firewall that pre- Embrace the power of storytelling. Write what makes for a better product,” he says. “So resources for security, says information. they’re to let the franchisee know, vents people from accessing your a short story about your restaurant on your now I have confidence that I’m ordering the Avivah Litan, security analyst “They (restaurants) should and if it’s a problem, the franchisee system over the Internet. menu. Use your website and social media. best product available.” n Keep the bestsellers ILLUSTRATION BY MIGUEL MONTANER ILLUSTRATION for Gartner, an information look for vendors that offer it and will let us know,” Dunaway says. but update dishes to stay relevant. 54 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 55 PR MACHINE Sharp ideas to get butts in seats

Encourage Do You interaction better be there to respond,” says Dave Delaney, author of “New Business Networking.” Experts agree that the algorithms favor Need to Pay posts with photos and videos. The quality of photos matters, too. At Beverly Hills, Cal- ® Keep perspective ifornia’s Ice Cream Lab, co-owner Joseph Lifschutz says the liquid nitrogen-fueled to Play? dessert shop’s posts weren’t getting much engagement. “In the beginning, Tommy Facebook can still be effective (Ngan, co-founder) and I would post a pic- BY MARGARET LITTMAN ture of writing on the (menu) board of what the new flavor was. Now we post high-res Spread the photos of the ice cream itself, and that gets a word lot more engagement.” DON’T TAKE IT PERSONALLY IF YOU’VE NOTICED THAT Keep perspective. If content isn’t getting traffic, don’t despair. Yes, 6 percent organ- Be known for your ice cream. HARDLY ANYONE “LIKES” ic reach is low. But there’s no medium that YOUR RESTAURANT’S reaches all your prospective customers, so There’s something special about ice cream. It’s what turns dessert into an FACEBOOK PAGE LATELY. keep expectations realistic. event, and operations into destinations. In fact, when it comes to restaurant IT’S NOT YOU. REALLY. Build a budget Spread the word. A small tabletop or choice, soft serve is one of the most influential menu items you can offer.* Once seen as a free, easy way for restaurants menu plug encouraging diners to engage with Make your place the place for dessert with DairyStar® Ice Cream Mixes. to promote themselves, Facebook has changed the restaurant on Facebook is the first step. “If so much over the past few years that the site is patrons don’t know to look for your deals and * NPD Crest, 2012 now considered “pay to play.” Because of the specials on Facebook, how do you expect to social media site’s algorithm changes, only 6 to and other restaurants. And Jeff Ernst, chief grow that follower community?” asks Vincent 7 percent of people who like a business’ page operating officer and co-founder of Smync, a Ferrer, content marketing strategist at Graphic TM see its updates in their news feed, experts say. Nebraska-based social engagement and advo- D-Signs Inc. Make Food Shine That means chefs can update their Facebook cate platform, says it’s possible to attain as high pages as often as they turn on a burner, but if as 30 percent organic reach. Try these tips for Build a budget. When organic reach isn’t Chocolate Chunk Milkshake** no one is getting those posts, it’s like shouting social media success: doing what you need, it’s time to pay to play. Triple the chocolate with less guilt. Made with DairyStar® Chocolate inside the walk-in: No one can hear you. Some experts spend as little as $2 a day to get Today, more restaurants have to rely on Encourage interaction. The more peo- results. Myers suggests new clients spend at Reduced Fat Ice Cream Mix, this sweet dark indulgence features dark Facebook ads and boosted posts to get fans’ ple who interact on your page, the more your least $15 a day for a two-pronged approach chocolate chunks, and chocolate aerosol whipped topping. attention. But this doesn’t have to cost a for- page will be shown to others. That means posts that includes ads to encourage page likes and tune, and spending money shouldn’t be your should encourage both comments (by asking a a weekly targeted promoted post. Remember, ** Suggested Recipe only social media strategy. question or encouraging patrons to post photos though, your objective is to get diners, not likes, Chicago’s Latin fusion hot spot Carnivale of their meal) and sharing (by providing reci- says Bill Sipper, managing partner of Cascadia doubled its Facebook likes from 7,000 to more pes, chef’s tips or quick videos of the kitchen). Managing Brands in Ramsey, New Jersey. than 14,000 in the past year. This online spike Don’t just promote yourself—be a member of Target ads at a specific demographic or more has translated into real-world traffic, too: Car- your community, sharing neighbors’ successes broadly, depending on your marketing objec- nivale had more check-ins via Facebook on and events. “It is called ‘social media,’ not ‘adver- tives. More important, measure your success. Mother’s Day 2014 than any other restaurant tising media’ for a reason,” says Lindsey Myers, If a discount is offered on Facebook, make sure in the city. account manager for WordHampton Public it’s coded so you accurately track and measure But Carnivale hasn’t emptied its coffers Relations Inc., a New York-based firm that its effectiveness.n to buy such social media success, says Dako- handles social media strategies. But be aware of For more information, contact your ta Shultz, principal at Agency 360, a Chicago the commitment that social media requires. “If Margaret Littman is a Nashville, Tennes- Saputo Representative or call 1-800-236-1014. marketing agency that works with Carnivale people are tagging you and writing to you, you see-based food, business and travel writer. www.unordinarydairy.com

56 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 DAIRYSTAR® is a registered trademark owned by Saputo Dairy Foods USA, LLC. All rights reserved. Seasoned advice on the DEAR FOOD FANATIC front and back of the house Buying local, organic and pasture-raised is all the rage, but these products cost an arm and a leg. Is it worth it to spend top dollar? Wouldn’t I be better off getting the least expensive ingredients?

DETERMINE YOUR ETHOS AND WHETHER SUCH beliefs align with your concept and values. Do your customers eat at your restaurant because of the free-range chicken and locally grown kale? If so, don’t mess with those ingredients. Not everything, though, has to be organic or local. For example, commercial milk for mashed potatoes isn’t a deal-breaker, but if your clientele includes kids, parents might value organic milk as a beverage option. If you are known for grass-fed or pasture-raised beef burgers, swapping in industrial meat isn’t a good idea.

Q. A lot of new restaurants are opening around staying up to code). Those who do not want to us—mostly chains. Our business is good but I’m embrace change will determine their own future. wondering if it’s time for an update. We’ve had our Recognize and reward their efforts. restaurant for 15 years. A. Even the most successful, long-running Q. How do I know if I’ve got a decent bottom line? restaurants update the menu and interiors on a I’m so frustrated. regular basis. Keep signature items and refresh the A. Create daily and weekly sales goals for food overall choices. Consider new plateware, which can and beverage. Keep a weekly P&L (profit and loss) show off those new dishes. Visit other restaurants, statement that records every aspect of money earned not just where you live but in other cities known for and spent. Also, perform a weekly inventory check great food. Same goes for the interiors. You don’t and keep a closer eye on higher cost items. This will FOOD FANATIC have to overhaul the entire dining room, but maybe prevent waste and root out theft. Rocco Paradiso is a Food your space could benefit from new light fixtures or Fanatic chef for US Foods updated chairs. A new coat of paint can make a big Q. I thought that the gluten-free craze would die, from Fort Mill, South Carolina, difference. But before making huge changes, talk to but a day doesn’t go by without a customer asking who’s always down for a a designer and get some input. me for gluten-free options. Salads and meat entrees good time and a challenge. aren’t cutting it. Should we revamp the menu? Q. In my new job, I’ve inherited some serious long- A. Many diners avoid gluten as a lifestyle choice, timers. How do I get them excited about changes so you will win over customers with gluten-free when most of them see me as the “bad guy?” pasta, bread and pancake mixes. Remember, you A. It’s human nature to fear change. Hit reset and can add an upcharge for these options. Be sure to rework the mentality of the existing staff. The most label additions as gluten-free “friendly” unless you @SpaghettiStainz common refrain will be “that’s not how we’ve done it prepare them in an area that does not come into Follow the Food Fanatic in the past.” Stay firm and be sure to communicate contact with wheat. Cross-contamination is extremely on Twitter for more tips. why changes are made (better service, less waste, harmful to those with celiac disease.

Got a question for the Food Fanatics? Send your challenges, comments and suggestions to [email protected]

58 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2015 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 59

BTB15-01 FDF_MushBrgrAd_C9x105-M1.indd 1 1/13/15 3:02 PM BEYOND THE PLATE

THE FAUX FLAT TOP an electric drill and going to town. “Stuff that Chef Justin Carlisle would take 10 minutes takes 10 seconds,” Farina Ardent, Milwaukee says. The repurposed tool can also cut other ingredients into long ribbons, such as carrots for Churning out innovative food in a kitchen the the restaurant’s carrot “pasta.” size of a shoebox is already a huge challenge for Carlisle and his team. But spending more than $100,000 to tunnel through seven stories of the THE CHEF’S PRESS building for a stovetop’s ventilation? Unfeasible. Chef Bruce Hill “To put in a hood would have cost me twice as Picco, Larkspur, California, and Bix, Zero much as we spent to build the entire restaurant,” Zero and Fog City, San Francisco Press for crispy skin Carlisle says. FOR GOOD A makeshift flat top makes his restaurant Hill turned his equipment hack into a patented possible. Four surplus warmer burners pur- product. “In the restaurant kitchen, 30 seconds RECONFIGURING A TOOL chased from Quiznos topped with conductive of time saved is an eternity,” he says. Shaving baking steels from Modernist Cuisine create a cooking time inspired The Chef’s Press, a stain- FOR A BETTER USE MAKES cooktop. “Without this, we can only put one pot less steel vented meat and seafood press that now on a burner at a time. But if we put this thing on, retails nationally. FOR ONE HAPPY CHEF we can run six pots at a time,” Carlisle says. To- “It’s the renewal of a very old idea: pressing BY ANTHONY TODD tal investment? About $1,000. food,” says Hill. Frustrated with soggy results from the cooking presses that collect steam on the underside of a flat, solid device, Hill teamed WHAT’S THE QUICKEST THE ULTIMATE SLICER up with a metalsmith friend in San Francisco Chef Danny Combs for a custom design. Turns out, it was a shortcut WAY TO LOSE A Sotto, Cincinnati worth selling. CHEF’S RESPECT? USE The key is proper weighting, a built-in handle A GARLIC PRESS, A Combs blows through two pounds of garlic per and vents that let steam escape from the food as day at his Italian trattoria. He needed a bet- it’s cooking. It allows the crisping of skin on fish HARD-BOILED EGG ter, faster way to slice the cloves. A truffle slicer and helps cook steaks and chicken breasts faster SLICER OR OTHER solved the problem. and more evenly. “It acts like a spare hand,” Hill LAME SINGLE-USE “It’s kind of a chef’s secret,” Combs says. “It’s says. “It holds that protein flat and gives you more consistent and cuts the amount of work in half.” time to prepare your vegetables.” Make super thin slices GADGET. The tool, which looks like a miniature mandolin, How to impress? Take an existing is perfectly designed to tackle paper-thin slices. tool and repurpose it, making it better While this kitchen hack works wonders on garlic, THE PERFECT FOAM and more useful, such as hammering Combs suggests a separate slicer for truffles. Chef Ryan McCaskey a spoon into a spatula. Flat, it stirs like Acadia, Chicago a champ and picks up just enough of a dish for sampling. THE POWER TOOL McCaskey has been making bubbles, foams and Maybe it’s the inner MacGyver that Chef Richie Farina espuma for years. “The easy way is to use a stick itches to create something outrageous- Moto, Chicago blender and add soy lecithin to make it bubble. ly useful out of the unassuming or just Once the foam bubbles, add some xanthan gum an innate refusal to be homogenous. The cooks use hundreds of ingredients and gar- to make the bubbles more stable,” he says. But the These five chefs “hacked” their way nishes to turn out intricate modernist dishes for foam must be made right before plating the dish, to kitchen innovation and couldn’t be their tasting menus. One dish features a fried which isn’t efficient. more pleased with themselves. potato net fashioned out of countless thin potato The prospect of constant bubble and a tip that strings that accompanies buffalo tartare topped Spain’s mastermind Chef Ferran Adria had been with microgreens from the restaurant’s indoor experimenting with air pumps led McCaskey to hydroponic farm. an aquarium store. An aquarium bubbler, it turns But those potatoes aren’t cut by hand. “We out, makes perfect froth on demand. “We take have a Japanese spiral cutter,” explains Farina. whatever we want to froth, leave it in a little metal “Normally, you crank it and it takes forever.” pan and drop the hose down to the bottom.” It’s Farina, an experienced wood-carver, came up easy to clean, inexpensive and makes the kitchen Bubble up foam Power a Japanese slicer with a quick fix: replacing the slicer’s handle with run faster.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 61 I’LL DRINK TO THAT! “MAD MEN” MAY HAVE the price of the drink,” says beverage director Pedro SPARKED OUR LOVE AFFAIR Goncalves. A martini made with Beefeater costs $10; WITH CLASSIC WHISKEY the same martini made with Germany’s coveted small-batch Monkey 47 costs $26. COCKTAILS. CREDIT DON Gin is served with a choice of four housemade DRAPER, AN OLD FASHIONED tonic waters—bitter, sweet, citrus or spicy. “And if you still want Schweppes,” says Goncalves, “there’s ENTHUSIAST, WHO HELPED a dollar upcharge.” It’s his way of encouraging cus- CATAPULT THAT COCKTAIL tomers to experience tonic water that tastes like its ONTO BAR MENUS EVERY- primary ingredient: cinchona bark. WHERE. BUT RECENTLY, Negronis Are the New Black COCKTAILS SEEM TO BE The Last Word, the Aviation and the Bee’s Knees are all gin drinks in heavy rotation at Oceana. But the LIGHTENING UP TO A MORE negroni—equal parts gin, Campari and sweet ver- SUBTLE SPIRIT: GIN. mouth—is a century-old classic that’s ensuring gin cocktails find a place on menus. “There’s been a real resurging interest in gin over “It’s a good cocktail for people who don’t like gin the past few years,” says Martin Cate, owner of San on its own, because it’s equal parts of other ingredi- Francisco’s gin-centric cocktail bar Whitechapel. ents as well,” says Goncalves. “There’s been an explosion in varieties, styles and It’s versatile, too. It could be as simple as adding brands. Not just a lot of new gins on the market, but flamed orange to a classic negroni, like Roosevelt really different ones—some even pushing the defi- in Denver. San Francisco restaurant Dirty Habit Jalapeno Gin Fizz nition of gin.” batches its negronis and barrel ages them in 1512 Wine and Beverage Director Pedro Goncalves Cate, who also owns the successful rum bar Spirits rye casks for three months. A negroni slushy Oceana, New York Smuggler’s Cove, opened Whitechapel a year ago might sound seasonal, but it is so popular that it has 1 slice of jalapeno, chopped with 400 bottles of the stuff after all signs pointed to become a menu fixture at Parson’s Chicken & Fish ½ ounce applejack gin as the next big thing. Gin has jumped from 16.5 in Chicago. 1½ ounce Greenhook Ginsmiths Beach percent to 26.5 percent over the past four years on Plum gin restaurant menus, according to a MenuTrends re- Vodka, the Gateway Spirit ½ ounce peach schnapps port from foodservice research firm Datassential. What about drinkers who dislike gin? Owner Brady 3 tiers bitters Picking your poison from a well-stocked bar is Caverly, whose Los Angeles bar, the Flintridge Lemon juice Cava as needed only part of the equation; you have to know how to Proper, boasts more than 200 bottles of gin, says it’s use it. all about perception of flavor. Place jalapeno in glass, add applejack and “I like to think of gin as the original flavored muddle. Add gin, peach schnapps, bitters Reinventing a Classic vodka,” Caverly says. Persuade a guest to give and squeeze of lemon. Shake and serve in Gin Today’s customer is more discerning about gin— a juniper-flavored vodka a chance, he says, and a highball glass with ice. Top with cava and and the cocktail it’s in. Gone are the days of watery they’ll see gin in a different light. garnish with a slice of jalapeno. for the Win gin and tonics made with compound gins, overly Brett Hughes, head bartender at New York’s sweetened tonics, bad ice and old, brown limes. In Madam Geneva, which opened in 2008 as one of THE ORIGINAL FLAVORED SPIRIT PAVES THE 2013, Chicago’s Sable Kitchen & Bar launched a the country’s first gin-centric lounges, embraces WAY FOR FOCUSED BEVERAGE PROGRAMS Spanish “gin tonic” program inspired by the world’s the challenge of anti-gin consumers. “As long as leading consumer of the spirit. The bar menu fea- you make them comfortable, they won’t freak out,” BY LAUREN VIERA tures a handful of small-batch gins and craft tonics he says. “Make something that’s a typical vodka served in a giant bowl glass, finished with garnishes cocktail made with gin, then ask, ‘Do you like it?’ such as celery bitters and rosemary or orange peel Sometimes, they won’t even know the difference.” “I USE THE LINE, ‘GIN IS and Thai chili. Stocking a wide variety of gins means guests feel “Our expanded gin offerings are meant to provide in control of their choices, says Goncalves. He sug- LIKE SEX: IF YOU DON’T a gateway to gin in an accessible and novel way,” gests recommending gins based on a customer’s head bartender Mike Ryan says. “The Spanish-style go-to spirit of choice. “I love the idea that you can LIKE IT, YOU’RE DOING gin tonics use a slightly higher ratio of tonic to gin, give somebody a taste of something and introduce along with specific pairings of gins, tonics and gar- them to something new,” he says. “You can’t con- IT WRONG,’” nishes to accentuate different elements.” vince everybody at once, but it’s one vodka drinker —Mike Ryan of Sable Kitchen & Bar New York’s Oceana launched the Just Gin program at a time.” n The jalapeno gin fizz in 2012 to showcase classic gin cocktails, drawing is topped with cava from nearly 50 types that cater to different tastes Lauren Viera is a Chicago-based spirits and cock- for a bubbly finish. and budgets. “You basically pay for the gin, and that’s tails writer whose first love is gin.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 63 BY THE NUMBERS Mine the math for a lucrative season

enus: d on m ature s fe able get Number of tomatoes that ve ee are considered a vegetable thr p (it’s a fruit, dummy!) to he r 5% T ppe 8 Pe rs ta % S 6 u 8 RISIN The number n to G CRO e a PS of months om T M T hes g e v ramps are in in ale eg d % K e season a 2 tab e 9 le L n an s o ab ero w i H it n p h O e th 44% p e p la

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: VEG OUT Consumers who Local farmers are swinging back into say food described action with a bounty of fresh produce. AND FOR ENTREES: as “seasonal” is Dig into these numbers to see which 50 more tasty vegetables are on the rise for spring. Then think of the many heirloom and hybrid varieties that can make menus stand out even more. 12% 40 Menus with arugula

30 Kale 48% 19% Beet 26% Menus that feature asparagus Broccolini 17% 20 Red potato 16% Habanero 14% 27% 10 Menus that include English peas Sources: Datassential, Food Genius Technomic

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