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Jeanne Lanvin
JEANNE LANVIN A 01long history of success: the If one glances behind the imposing façade of Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 22, in Paris, Lanvin fashion house is the oldest one will see a world full of history. For this is the Lanvin headquarters, the oldest couture in the world. The first creations house in the world. Founded by Jeanne Lanvin, who at the outset of her career could not by the later haute couture salon even afford to buy fabric for her creations. were simple clothes for children. Lanvin’s first contact with fashion came early in life—admittedly less out of creative passion than economic hardship. In order to help support her six younger siblings, Lanvin, then only fifteen, took a job with a tailor in the suburbs of Paris. In 1890, at twenty-seven, Lanvin took the daring leap into independence, though on a modest scale. Not far from the splendid head office of today, she rented two rooms in which, for lack of fabric, she at first made only hats. Since the severe children’s fashions of the turn of the century did not appeal to her, she tailored the clothing for her young daughter Marguerite herself: tunic dresses designed for easy movement (without tight corsets or starched collars) in colorful patterned cotton fabrics, generally adorned with elaborate smocking. The gentle Marguerite, later known as Marie-Blanche, was to become the Salon Lanvin’s first model. When walking JEANNE LANVIN on the street, other mothers asked Lanvin and her daughter from where the colorful loose dresses came. -
Fragonard Magazine N°9 - 2021 a Year of PUBLICATION DIRECTOR and CHIEF EDITOR New Charlotte Urbain Assisted By, Beginnings Joséphine Pichard Et Ilona Dubois !
MAGAZINE 2021 9 ENGLISH EDITORIAL STAFF directed by, 2021, Table of Contents Agnès Costa Fragonard magazine n°9 - 2021 a year of PUBLICATION DIRECTOR AND CHIEF EDITOR new Charlotte Urbain assisted by, beginnings Joséphine Pichard et Ilona Dubois ! ART DIRECTOR Claudie Dubost assisted by, Maria Zak BREATHE SHARE P04 Passion flower P82 Audrey’s little house in Picardy AUTHORS Louise Andrier P10 News P92 Passion on the plate recipes Jean Huèges P14 Laura Daniel, a 100%-connected by Jacques Chibois Joséphine Pichard new talent! P96 Jean Flores & Théâtre de Grasse P16 Les Fleurs du Parfumeur Charlotte Urbain 2020 will remain etched in our minds as the in which we all take more care of our planet, CELEBRATE CONTRIBUTORS year that upturned our lives. Yet, even though our behavior and our fellow men and women. MEET P98 Ten years of acquisitions at the Céline Principiano, Carole Blumenfeld we’ve all suffered from the pandemic, it has And especially, let’s pledge to turn those words P22 Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard leading the way Eva Lorenzini taught us how to adapt and behave differently. into actions! P106 A-Z of a Centenary P24 Gérard-Noel Delansay, Clément Trouche As many of you know, Maison Fragonard is a Although uncertainty remains as to the Homage to Jean-François Costa a familly affair small, 100% family-owned French house. We reopening of social venues, and we continue P114 Provence lifestyle PHOTOGRAPHERS enjoy a very close relationship with our teams to feel the way in terms of what tomorrow will in the age of Fragonard ESCAPE Olivier Capp and customers alike, so we deeply appreciate bring, we are over the moon to bring you these P118 The art of wearing perfume P26 Viva România! Eva Lorenzini your loyalty. -
Press Release
Puig Revenues reached €1,790 Million with 9% Growth in 2016 ▪ Net Income was €155 Million, an increase of 23% versus 2015 ▪ The company is still on track to reach its objective of €2 Billion in revenues in 2017 Barcelona, April 24, 2017 Puig Net Revenues reached €1,790 Million in 2016, which represents a growth of 9% in reported net revenues and a 5% rise on a like-for-like and constant currency basis. Profit Before Tax represented 12% of Net Revenues. Net Income reached €155 million, or 9% of revenues. Evolution of Net Revenues and Profit (2015-2016) In millions of euros 2015 2016 A15/A16 (1) Net Revenues 1,645 1,790 9% 5% Profit Before Tax (PBT) 181 215 19% Corporate Tax -50 -56 Taxes/PBT -28% -26% Net Income 126 155 23% Despite the additional costs related to the integration of Jean Paul Gaultier in 2016, Puig improved profitability with respect to 2015 in line with its three-year strategic plan ending in 2017. Worldwide Presence 2016 % of revenues outside Spain 85% % of revenues in emerging markets (2) 44% (1) On a like-for-like and constant currency basis (2) Outside the European Union and North America Geographical Breakdown In 2016, 15% of revenues were generated in Spain and 85% in the rest of the world. Emerging markets 1 EXTERNAL CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS outside the European Union and North America accounted for 44% of the company’s business. Puig had 4,430 employees in 2016, 40% of whom worked in Spain. All Puig fragrances were manufactured in the company’s production centers in France and Spain. -
Fragrance List Print
Quality Fragrances . Unbeatable Prices Fragrance List Top Sellers - Women Love Spell Type* (W) Gucci Guilty Type* (W) Romance Type* (W) Ed Hardy Type*RAJOHN (W) Heat by Beyonce Type* (W)AROMASBlack by Kenneth Cole Type* (W) Moon Sparkle Type* (W) Jimmy Choo Type* (W) Beautiful Type* (W) Love Struck Type* (W) Pleasures Type* (W) Bombshell by VS Type* (W) Pink Sugar by Aquolina Type* (W) Reb'l Fleur Type* (W) Black Woman Type* (W) Be Delicious Type* (W) White Diamonds Type* (W) Versace Bright Crystsal Type* (W) Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana Type* (W) Cashmere Mist Type* (W) Candy by Prada Type* (W) Issey Miyake Type* (W) Butt Naked Type* (W) Michael Kors Type* (W) Angel by VS Type* (W) Can Can by Paris Hilton Type* (W) Cucumber Melon by B&BW Type* (W) Modern Muse by Estee Lauder Type* (W) Daisy by Marc Jacobs Type* (W) Miss Dior Cherie Type* (W) Angel Type* (W) Euphoria by CK Type* (W) Lick Me All Over Chanel #5 Type* (W) Amber Blush Type* (W) Viva La Juicy Type* (W) Coco Chanel Type* (W) Halle by Halle Berry Type* (W) Pink Friday by Nicki Minaj Type* (W) Dolce & Gabbana Type* (W) Happy Type* (W) Dot by Marc Jacobs Type* (W) Flower Bomb Type* (W) Japanese Cherry Blossom Type* (W) Burberry Weekend Type* (W) Glow by J. Lo Type* (W) Juicy Couture Type* (W) Coach Type* (W) Acqua Di Gio Type* (W) Poppy by Coach Type* (W) Top Sellers - Men Polo Red Type* (M) Polo Blue Type* (M) Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford Type* (M) Jay-Z Gold Type* (M) Unforgivable Type* (M) Usher Type* (M) Gucci Guilty Type* (M) Chrome Legend Type* (M) Cucumber Melon by B&BW Type* -
Protodiplomacy Across the Mediterranean: the Catalan Participation in the First Congresses of Byzantine Studies in South- Eastern Europe During the Interwar Period
Protodiplomacy Across the Mediterranean: The Catalan Participation in the First Congresses of Byzantine Studies in South- Eastern Europe During the Interwar Period LUCILA MALLART Universitat Pompeu Fabra In the interwar period, Catalan nationalists sought to participate actively in post-World War I political forums in order to inscribe Catalonia in discussions on national minorities. Figures like Lluís Nicolau d’Olwer (1888-1961) or Joan Estelrich (1896-1958) unsuccessfully fought to have their claims heard at organisations such as the League of Nations. This has been considered a form of protodiplomacy (Núñez-Seixas 2010). This paper will explore the ways in which Catalan politicians and intellectuals, such as the abovementioned Lluís Nicolau d’Olwer and Josep Puig i Cadafalch (1867-1956), engaged in forms of protodiplomacy in the same period, in the context of the Byzantine Studies Congresses that were organised in South-Eastern Europe in 1924 and 1927. This engagement is significant for a number of reasons. Firstly, it shows that territorial entities with conflicting agendas (separatist, in the case of Catalonia; agglutinating, in the case of Romania) could build narratives that reciprocally reinforced each other’s nationalist objectives. Secondly, it alters the conventional narrative according to which Josep Puig i Cadafalch, former president of the Catalan Mancomunitat (1917-1923) retired from politics after General Primo de Rivera’s coup d’état, and devoted himself to merely academic practices (e.g. Balcells 2013). Instead, his participation in those Congresses should be framed in the both implicit and explicit political character of those meetings (Maufroy 2010). Finally, the approach of this paper highlights the eminently transnational character of the spaces in which those nationalist narratives and claims where discussed and negotiated (Alcalde 2018). -
Graphic Content
BIG IN BEIJING DIANE VON FURSTENBERG FETED WITH EXHIBIT IN CHINA. STYLE, PAGE S2 WWDTUESDAY, APRIL 5, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 ZEROING IN Puig Said In Talks Over Gaultier Stake founded in 1982, and remain at the By MILES SOCHA creative helm. As reported, Hermès said Friday PARIS — As Parisian as the Eiffel it had initiated discussions to sell its Tower, Jean Paul Gaultier might soon shares in Gaultier, without identify- become a Spanish-controlled company. ing the potential buyers. The maker According to market sources, of Birkin bags and silk scarves de- Puig — the Barcelona-based parent clined all comment on Monday, as did of Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci and a spokeswoman for Gaultier. Paco Rabanne — has entered into ex- Puig offi cials could not be reached clusive negotiations to acquire the 45 for comment. percent stake in Gaultier owned by A deal with Puig — a family-owned Hermès International. company that has recently been gain- It is understood Puig will also pur- ing traction with Ricci and expand- chase some shares from Gaultier him- ing Herrera and has a reputation for self, which would give the Spanish being respectful of creative talents beauty giant majority ownership of —would offer a new lease on life for a landmark French house — and in- Gaultier, a designer whose licensing- stantly make it a bigger player in the driven fashion house has struggled to fashion world. thrive in the shadow of fashion giants Gaultier, 58, is expected to retain like Chanel, Dior and Gucci. a signifi cant stake in the company he SEE PAGE 6 IN WWD TODAY Armani Eyes U.S. -
Francesc Marcé I Puig
1 The users centred approach / Designing the stress Francesc Marcé i Puig Keywords: Design. Communication. Interaction. Disarrangement. Disappoint Abstract In previous works, the author of the present paper has been devoted to expose his theoretical and empiric investigations on Design and his methods as a part of a social communication process, as well as to the study of the human communication in general terms. As a those reflections result, we seek in the present report to defend and to argue the following thesis: a good design find this departure point on a design process centred in the user. Then, after studying the conditions for the effectiveness of the Design objects, it is imposed, as an exercise of scientific and social understanding, the use of the same theoretical tools to analyse the consequences of Design products malfunction. 1. Introduction In previous works, we have exposed our theoretical and empiric investigations on Design and their methods, framing them in the context of a social communication process. This process justifies and it explains them. He have been also studying human communication in general terms. Now we must look for some more reach conclusions. All these works are based on three fundamental premises: First, any culture can be understood as a generation of behaviours and material objects, which production and use is function of certain social relationships structure. Their meaning emerge from a certain system of social “necessities”. The socio-cultural system is then a hyper-complex communicational system. Second, the above-mentioned implies that, material environment components, act as messages, taken place over the base of certain language and producing some influence in their receiver-users. -
The Hands That Sew the Sequins
PRESS REVIEW Eric Charles-Donatien The Hands That Sew the Sequins January 19, 2006 By ELIZABETH HAYT François Lesage showing a Saint Laurent fabric made by his company. Ed Alcock for The New York Times EVERY day for the last three weeks in Montmartre, 45 seamstresses at the House of Lesage, France's oldest embroiderer, have been hunched over wooden frames feverishly stitching sequins, rhinestones and beads onto gossamer cloth. Their needlework is so intricate it seems spun from candied sugar. Defying the official French 35-hour workweek, they are rushing to finish some 50 designs for the spring haute couture shows, which begin on Monday. The women are among the treasured "petites mains" (tiny hands), artisans who labor in workshops, that have changed little in a century, doing the elaborate handwork that transforms a designer's dress into a sumptuous showpiece of luxury. They make ornamental silk flowers, curling the edges with heated tools that look like lollipops. They fashion peau de soie evening sandals on custom lasts and stitch straw for hats and polish buttons shaped like bows and plate them in gold. It is in part this handwork that explains why haute couture garments come with astronomical price tags: upward of $25,000 for a suit and $150,000 for an evening gown. © Courtesy of Chanel A model on the catwalk wearing the results of the many specialized workshops of Paris. AA/ ECD / Revue de Presse / 2006.01-NYTimes.docx PRESS REVIEW Eric Charles-Donatien Toil and training alone do not account for the obsession with perfection. -
Mariano Puig Planas Passes Away at Age 94
Mariano Puig Planas passes away at age 94 A founding member of the Family Business Institute in Spain, the former President of Puig was recognized early on for his leadership and business skills Puig sadly announces the death of Mariano Puig Planas, member of the second generation of the Puig family and former President of Puig. Born in Barcelona in 1927, he earned a doctorate degree in chemical engineering and was a 1964 graduate of IESE Business School. Married to María Guasch, he had four sons and one daughter. Beginning in his youth, Mariano Puig stood out for his leadership abilities and a sense for business growth, establishing important ties with the United States, the Caribbean and France. After closing a distribution agreement for the fragrance Agua Lavanda Puig in the United States at the end of the 1950s, Mariano Puig acquired representation of the brand Max Factor, distributing it in Spain for more than 15 years. His experience in the United States led him in 1968 to take the leap to Paris, where he signed a collaboration agreement with the designer Paco Rabanne for the creation of his fragrances. It was the beginning of the company’s international expansion. Years later, in 1987, he reached an agreement with the designer Carolina Herrera to produce her perfumes, also negotiating in 1995, the purchase of1 Copyright DutyFree Magazine. All rights reserved. her fashion division. In addition to being a founding member of the Family Business Institute in Spain, of which he was president from 1995 to 1997, Mariano Puig was: Member -
Charles Kleibacker, Master of the Bias Cut; Designs, Construction and Techniques
CHARLES KLEIBACKER, MASTER OF THE BIAS CUT; DESIGNS, CONSTRUCTION AND TECHNIQUES DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for The Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Joycelyn Falsken, M.A. ***** The Ohio State University 2008 Dissertation Committee: Professor Patricia A. Cunningham, Adviser Professor Kathryn A. Jakes Professor Alice L. Conklin Curator Gayle M. Strege Copyright by Joycelyn Falsken 2008 ABSTRACT Charles Kleibacker was a fashion designer in New York City from 1960 to 1986, a time when fashion styles reflected the turmoil that occurred in society throughout those years. However, through it all Charles maintained an individual design aesthetic – soft figure-flattering bias dresses with a classic look that could be worn for years. This earned him a devoted clientele of women who purchased his designer ready-to-wear garments at top stores in New York, or were custom fit in his workshop. Because of his preference for and skill with bias, he became known as the Master of the Bias Cut. Trained in French couturier methods of construction, Kleibacker’s garments were all produced with the highest standards in fabric, construction and fit. Bias is known to be the most difficult ‘cut’ to work with when constructing garments. Charles experimented until he figured out how to solve the challenges, and then trained his workers in the exacting techniques required. Having first a career in journalism, Charles’ path to fashion was in “no way normal” and his approach to his business and the industry was not the norm either. Starting small, through much determination and sacrifice, he overcame many obstacles to produce garments engineered for an enduring and graceful artistry. -
22 Designers and Fashion Brands Will Present Their Collections at the Next
22 designers and fashion brands will present their collections at the next 080 Barcelona Fashion, which once again opts for the digital format and will be held at La Pedrera • ALVARO CALAFAT, ANTONIO MARCIAL, AVELLANEDA, CUSTO, EIKO AI, EÑAUT, ESCORPION, IS COMING, LEBOR GABALA, LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE, LR3, MENCHEN TOMAS, ONRUSHW23FH, OTRURA, PABLO ERROZ, PALOMA WOOL, PAOLA MOLET, PARAISO, THE LABEL EDITION, TXELL MIRAS, VICTOR VON SCHWARZ and Y_COMO will present their suggestions in the next fashion contest, which is promoted by the Generalitat (Regional Government of Catalonia) and will take place from 26 to 29 April in the Pedrera building 18 March 2021.—080 Barcelona Fashion – a fashion contest promoted by the Generalitat (Regional Government of Catalonia) through the Consorci de Comerç, Artesania i Moda (CCAM – Trade, Crafts and Fashion Consortium) – presents the designers and brands that will participate in the next edition, which will take place from 26 to 29 April in the unique venue of Casa Milà (La Pedrera). The 27th 080 Barcelona Fashion is once again opting for an entirely digital format, with the fashion content being streamed, a decision that, on the one hand, is due to the exceptional situation resulting from the COVID-19 pandemic, and, on the other, to the aim of 080 Barcelona Fashion to adapt to the digitisation of the fashion industry. Up to 22 designers and fashion brands make up the line-up for the next edition, with highly diverse creative proposals, whose common ground consists of talent, creativity, originality, quality and, above all, authenticity and uniqueness. The following designers Communications Office Pg. -
In Joined Cases 253/78 and 1 to 3/79 REFERENCE to the Court Under Article 177 of the EEC Treaty by the Tribunal De Grande Instan
PROCUREUR DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE v GIRY AND GUERLAIN In Joined Cases 253/78 and 1 to 3/79 REFERENCE to the Court under Article 177 of the EEC Treaty by the Tribunal de Grande Instance, Paris, (31st Chamber) for a preliminary ruling in the actions pending before that court between PROCUREUR DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE AND MESSRS FRANCIS PACHOT AND VINCENT RAMON and BRUNO GIRY AND GUERLAIN S.A. (Case 253/78) PROCUREUR DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE AND MRS WINDENBERGER, NÉE ULM and MAURICE PIERRE CELICOUT AND PARFUMS ROCHAS S.A. (Case 1/79) PROCUREUR DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE AND MRS WINDENBERGER, NÉE ULM and YVES PIERRE LANVIN AND LANVIN-PARFUMS S.A. (Case 2/79) PROCUREUR DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE AND MRS WINDENBERGER, NÉE ULM and ANDRÉ ALBERT FAVEL AND NINA RICCI S.À R.L. (Case 3/79) on the interpretation of Article 85 of the EEC Treaty and of certain rules adopted in implementation of that provision, 2329 JUDGMENT OF 10. 7. 1980 — JOINED CASES 253/78 AND 1 TO 3/79 THE COURT composed of: H. Kutscher, President, A. O'Keeffe and A.Touffait (Presidents of Chambers), J. Mertens de Wilmars, P. Pescatore, Lord Mackenzie Stuart, G. Bosco, T. Koopmans and O. Due, Judges, Advocate General: G. Reischl Registrar: A. Van Houtte gives the following JUDGMENT Facts and Issues I — Facts and procedure first one: he claimed in addition that in order to maintain the prestige of the trade-mark and to ensure the protection of its customers, Guerlain S.A. practised 1. The facts in the main actions may be a sales policy of selective distribution summarized as follows: formally approved by the judgment of the Cour d'Appel, Paris, of 26 May 1965 known as the Guerlain judgment.