ISSN 1853-9610

Nº89 FEBRUARY / MARCH 2018

CrowdMusic Pleasers Festivals in Argentina

Mendoza Guide Restaurants Maps www.-republic.com

1 2 3 CONTENTS

News Republic Out & About MegaDegustación...... 5 Bars...... 22 Wine O’Clock. Wine Paradise...... 5 Dining out...... 24 Al vino...Toro...... 5 Winery Guide...... 26

The Faded Gradeur of Maipú Maps & More Once a boom town with some of the biggest Useful information...... 23 in the World...... 6 Map of Mendoza City Center...... 30 Map of Maipú...... 32 Crowd Pleasers Map of Chacras de Coria...... 34 Music Festival in Argentina...... 10 Map of San Martín Park...... 34

Summers Nigths in Mendoza 14 Long warm days invite people to go out to have a drink...... 16

CREDITS Page 6

Issue FEBRUARY -MARCH 2018 - ISSN 1853-9610. 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A. Page 10 Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613

Editor: Charlie O’Malley Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: [email protected], Page 16 [email protected] Design: Circlan.com . Jona Conti: [email protected]. Contributors: Gabriela Raimondo, Mariana Gómez Rus Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic www.wine-republic.com

4 NEWS REPUBLIC

Megadegustación Al Vino...Toro: Wine Flowing in the Streets 120 years of Toro Wine

This mega event is held in Sarmiento Street where Giol winery was gigantic and their brand Toro is still wineries from Mendoza put up stands for a couple of one of the most drank of Argentina. A Toro days of . This year the dates are from the (bull) was the image of the winery and legend goes 22nd until the 25th of February. People buy tickets that drops of champion bull’s blood were added to the and can try entry level or premium wines amidst process. Now, Fecovita carries on with the delicious food stands. Sarmiento Street is also well- production of Toro which is for the everyday known for its restaurants so you can either try the consumption. Federación de Cooperativas Argentinas finger food or have something more substantial. The (FeCoVitA) is a large Cooperative in the sure thing is that there will be copious amount of world. It encompasses 5.000 producers and 30.000 wine being poured to eager tourists and locals who hectares of . They represent the 30% of the can try all their favourite labels in just one place. It is local consumption of wine. In the brand is a fun evening with Tango shows and DJs. The main everywhere and a few years ago there was a marketing focus is of course on the wine so there are also famous campaign which was very successful called the Vino winemakers who do Q & A sessions. All in all, fun, food Toro Manifest. It was a commercial which talked about and vino. calling things by their own names. It ended with ‘al vino, Toro’ meaning if you drink wine, call it Toro. From then on that phrase became a part of the Argentinian Wine O’ Clock: consciousness and it caught on. After 120 years Toro Wine Paradise will still live on.

This is the new space for wine lovers in the city. Wine O’ Clock has inaugurated a new wine bar right next to their old location, with more space and special tastings happening all the time. The company added a wine dispenser that allows tasting by the glass and they’re expecting another by February. There are many events for people hungry for knowledge. We especially recommend their Winemaker Nights with a local winemaker attending to present their elixir and explain how it is made. Their new tasting room and courtyard are perfect for drinks. They had a recent gin tasting with Príncipe de los Apóstoles which is a Mate flavoured gin from a local producer in Mendoza (mate is an Argentinian infusion consumed from a gourd with a metallic straw). We learned how to make the perfect gin and tonic and explained what it takes to produce gin. It made for an incredible evening.

5 The Faded Grandeur of Maipú Once a boom town with some of the biggest wineries in the World, Maipu has an opulent past. Gabriela Raimondo looks into the past through a camera lense.

The mid 1800s and beginning of 1900s marked a time up with Gerónimo Bautista Gargantini who was his of immigrants and their dreams coming true in Maipú, brother-in-law. They founded La Colina de Oro which Mendoza. Multitudes from Europe embarked on a was one of the most successful and biggest businesses journey to the American dream. We know the story well in the history of Maipú. In 1914 after amassing a huge enough from Hollywood movies. But what happened to fortune he decided to retire to Italy where he bought an the people who didn’t go through Ellis Island and instead impressive amount of hectares and built a winery. The came to Buenos Aires? last time he came to Mendoza was 1934. He died in Udine in 1936. Many came to Mendoza and settled in Maipú to start out in the wine industry. They were the forefathers of the Gerónimo Bautista Gargantini was born in 1861 in Ticino, huge industry that we still enjoy today. Some returned to Switzerland. In 1883 and because of economic issues their home countries as soon as they made enough money he decided to come to Mendoza. He started work as a and some remained. The opulence and splendour these builder until he had a bit more capital and he put up a men and women created and lived in are still present in station selling cold cuts in the Central Market. In 1890 he Maipú. The decadence of the many abandoned wineries partnered with Pascual Toso and married Oliva Bondino make for a photographers paradise. in 1896. He then decided to partner with his brother-in- law and start up with La Colina de Oro. In 1911, in the One of the most famous examples (open for visitors every midst of the company’s rise he decided to retire and sell day) is The National Museum of Wine and . The his part of the company to Giol. He reserved a portion of old mansions that belonged to Juan Giol and Bautista his estates in the east, in Rivadavia, for his son Bautista Gargantini are magnificent and represent a time of pomp and returned to Switzerland and built 5 palaces in Lugano and grandeur. Lake where he died in 1937.

Juan Giol was born in Vigonovo in Udine, Italy in 1867. How did these men achieve to copy the splendour of He worked in jobs not related to viticulture. In 1887, he European palaces so far away from home? There is only decided to immigrate to Argentina (legend says he was a one answer: the train. The San Martin Railway (1886) stowaway) and established himself in Mendoza. The first came from Buenos Aires all the way to Gutierrez in few years he worked at Trapiche which was owned at that Maipú. In 1902 when the construction of the Gargantini time by another very famous immigrant called Tiburcio and Giol’s houses began, everything was shipped in from Benegas. He rented his first in 1890 and he met Europe. If you visit the old wineries in Maipú, you will his future wife Margarita Bondino. In 1896 he partnered still admire the antique floors and ceiling in the early

6 Maipú

7 1900s European style as well as the old casks brought A trip to the past through the Metrotranvia in from staves from France and built in place since they were too large to move. Such huge expenditure was It was a titanic task to build a railway that came from easily afforded by two men who had created the biggest Buenos Aires to Maipú but it was certainly the biggest and most successful winery in the World. reason for the area’s wealth. At the beginning of the 1900s colossal wineries such as La Colina de Oro, Lopez The amazing print La Colina de Oro and later on Giol left and Trapiche needed to have their wines transported as in Maipú was the urbanization of the area. Most locals fast as possible, so the train and the wineries have a long worked for the winery at one point or other of their lives. tradition in Gutierrez. The old station there, now home of When the production of wine increased vertiginously the Metrotranvía (trolley car), shows evidence of these the current Ozamis street and the area towards the times of hard labour and immense reward. train began to be populated and the development of the neighbourhood was incredible. Commerce began As passengers now descend the Metrotranvía at the to thrive and the winery was its focal point. The last station, bits of the past come to life. The old sign neighbourhoods are filled with houses that tried to evoke indicating the last stop of a very long journey, and the the palatial spirit of the old mansions. decaying buildings add the feeling of nostalgia. The old water tanks are rusted and the once roaring warehouse is now silent. The marks of the old wine duct tell the Reviving the San Martin Train story of the times when the wineries would fill the barrels being transported on the trains with the use of a In 2017, the President Mauricio Macri came to metal pipe that would go from the concrete tanks to the an agreement with China to invest US2.400 train station. million to restore the San Martin Cargo Train. The works will take approximately 3 years Maipú is the home to Mendoza’s most traditional and and it will connect Mendoza to the ports of oldest wineries. The splendour is still visible even well Rosario and Buenos Aires. The project will after a century. The homes that were erected 120 years renovate 1626 km of railways and 120 bridges. ago are still standing strong. The grandeur et decadence Hopefully this project will help the local make these houses jewels for preservation. They are a economy and will restore the train and area’s pivotal part of the history of the city as well as the train former glory. and it is important to maintain them.

Wine and Harvest Museum Inside the Wine and Harvest Museum

8 9 Crowd Pleasers

Gabriela Raimondo rocks up and asks “where’s the party?”

Argentina has always been the pioneer South American came from those ensembles such as Charly Garcia and country in terms of live music concerts. It was the first Luis Alberto Spinetta. In the 70s harder rock appeared country to produce excellent rock bands and festivals. and bands like Pescado Rabioso and Pappo’s Blues became Ever since the 60s going to concerts or festivals has very successful. In the mid-70s and beginning of the 80s, become a great tradition. the military dictatorship censored most rock bands and some even had to flee the country. Touring, which was not The crowds in Argentina are very ardent. It has become very common, began as a way to escape the government’s somewhat of a fashion for tourists to go to football radar. Their fame became more international. matches not only because of the quality of the team’s game but because the Argentinian public puts on the The 80s was the golden age of Argentinian rock. After main show with their passionate chants. years of censorship there were free elections for the first time in seven years. Most musicians came back from exile This also happens in music nowadays. There are huge and arrived to Argentina. Luca was the lead differences between the crowds here and for example, singer in one of the most famous bands of Argentina, our neighbouring countries. I went to see my favourite called Sumo. Sumo split up after Luca’s death but two rock band, Pearl Jam in Buenos Aires and Chile and the bands arose from the ashes, Divididos and Las Pelotas. experience, even though was excellent both times, was hugely different. In Buenos Aires there was electricity in Argentinian bands became famous throughout the 80s the air that turned the night into something especial. A lot for such super bands as Soda Stereo, Sumo, Los Enanitos of music aficionados are coming to festivals in Argentina Verdes, Los Redonditos de Ricota and Los Fabulosos to enjoy music but mainly to be part of the synergy of the Cadillacs . There were solo artists that were also very well crowd. known like Fito Paez and Andrés Calamaro.

A few decades of rock During the 90s bands were influenced by different styles such as hip hop, pop and metal and they began fusing them Rock arrived to Argentina in the mid-50s and started a with rock. Bands like Illya Kuryaki and the Valderramas revolution but it wasn’t really until the 60s that bands which is heavily influenced by rap and hip hop marked the began singing rock songs in Spanish. The first major new generation of rock musicians (Spinetta’s son, Dante hit was ‘La Balsa’ from Los Gatos in 1967. Some of the was one of the lead singers of the band). The first female founding bands of Rock Nacional, as Argentinians call it, rock stars appear during these times such as Patricia Sosa, were Almendra, Manal and Sui Generis. The bands were Fabiana Cantilo and Hilda Lizarazu. and Los short lived but some of the most influential musicians Pericos gained international fame.

10 Buenos Aires Rock - 2017 www.indiehoy.com

The millennial saw the beginning of the rock barrial or Pappo rock chabón which were new bands talking about the everyday life of young people living in working class neighbourhoods. Unfortunately, several deaths like Pappo’s in 2005 and Gustavo Cerati’s in 2006 together with the Cromañon disaster caused a major setback. Currently, there’s been a return of the rock barrial with bands like Guasones or Las Pastillas del Abuelo. They are packing out stadiums again and gaining more recognition as international bands are coming more and more to Argentina and many local bands have performed as the opening acts for big shows. It is my wish that Argentinian rock bands return to their former glory Gustavo Ceratti Festival Extravaganza Lollapalooza - 2017 ‘God is everywhere but his office is in Buenos Aires’ Prov. Buenos Aires (Argentinian saying)

For years now, big international bands have been coming to Buenos Aires to perform for their crazed fans. Some excellent examples are Morrissey who played in Maipú, Rod Stewart who is coming in February, the Rolling Stones and Paul McCartney just to name of few. McCartney got the crowd in a frenzy in Cordoba with the legendary greeting “Buenas Noches Culiados!”.

Excellent energy and loud audiences is what the bands expect and Argentinians do not disappoint. Rock concerts are definitely a must when tourists come to Argentina. Excellent music is not only what you receive but also the atmosphere of euphoria and freedom that might become one of the greatest experiences in life.

One of the biggest of the year is Lollapalooza. Since its first Argentinean edition in 2014, Lollapalooza brings in the crowds into San Isidro in the province of Buenos Aires. For the year 2018, the dates are 16th, 17th and 18th March and it is expected to be a very big event. Airline companies throw special offers for music lovers and tickets sell out quickly. The headliners include Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Las Pelotas, The Killers, Bajofondo and Pearl Jam. Most sidebands perform for smaller crowds at Niceto Club. For tickets or more information: www. allaccess.com.ar

11 The SoundHearts Festival is presenting Radiohead on Fiesta de la Vendimia in Mendoza, the 14th April in Tecnopolis. The lineup includes Flying ‘Wine Constellation’ 3rd, 4th and 5th March Lotus, Junun and Rocco Posca. This is Radiohead’s first time back in Argentina since 2009 so it will be a great March is the harvest time and people love to celebrate it. night for followers of the band to reunite. After all of the hard work that goes into taking care of the vines and collecting the grapes, a big party is in order. The Foo Fighters and Queens of Stone Age are presenting There are many events that led up to the Central Party at the Velez Stadium in Buenos Aires on the 7th March. but my personal favourite is rock night. After picking a Harvest Queen, the party continues with musicians. This The Folk Festivals year, there will be a folk music and rock night as closure. Most artists are scared of performing in the Frank Romero Day’s Theatre. The theatre is huge and it has bleachers so Even though Buenos Aires is the mecca for big from the performers’ point of view it seems like a humane international rock bands, the provinces are the most cascade might fall on to them at any second. popular for local bands to perform to huge audiences. These are some of the best. The audience in the Vendimia Festival is mostly composed by families but the energy is still there. Most youngsters see the show from the neighbouring small mountains Cosquín Rock, and Mendocineans make a picnic out of it. People bring 10th and 11th February their own food as the event takes most of the afternoon and continues till midnight. Santa Maria de Punilla is the location in the province of Cordoba and attendance is a must. The biggest Argentinian bands love to perform here since it is a rite Gay Vendimia of passage for most of them. This festival has two sides to March 10th it as there is a rock version and a folklore version. Two days filled with amazing music is a great plan. It has taken The party continues with a vibrant show with dancers the model imposed by several international festivals of and performers from the LGBT community and electro having several stages and artists playing at once. music is the favourite of the night. Bring your dance shoes and attitude.

Wine Rock: Bodega Monteviejo 7th April

This is Mendoza at its best as it brings together all of our passions: wine, rock, mountains and art. It is located at Monteviejo winery, 90 minutes south of the city in Valle de uco. As well as music, there is an art exhibition and copious amounts Marcelo Pelleriti’s wine since he is the main winemaker at Monteviejo and one of the founders of the event. Cosquín Rock For more information: www.monteviejowinerock.com

Vendimia

12 13 Vendimia schedule Vendimia

February 25th The Blessing of the Fruits : First official event in the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia. This year it wil be held in the East of the Province in Rivadavia. This religious ceremony pays homage to the producers, harvesters and women. Free entrance.

2nd March Via Blanca de las Reinas: parade held at night where the queens of each region wave and smile from their chariots. 3rd March Carrusel de las Reinas: parade during the day with the queens in chariots that display the products each region is known for.

3rd March Harvest Festival, the first day a Queen is chosen from all of the regions in Mendoza to represent the wine industry nationally. It is a beautiful show with dancers, actors and Cromañon: music all around. The tragedy that changed it all

Callejeros, a local rock band, played in Cromañon, 4th March Buenos Aires on 30th December, 2004. The venue Folklore Repetition: The show is repeated and folklore was indoors when a fire broke out due to the use of artists perform. Soledad Pastorutti accompanied by smoke flares. 194 people died and over 1400 were the Philarmonic Orchestra of Mendoza and Juan injured. There were political and cultural changes Carlos Baglietto and Jairo are in charge of the night’s that followed the huge catastrophe. entertainment. All dancing venues remained closed for 15 days until their licenses got renewed under stricter 5th March regulations. It transpired that Cromañon was Rock Repetition: The show is repeated and Auténticos overcrowded and the emergency exit did not Decadentes, Kapanga and Parió La Choca perform. comply with the minimum standards for such a Tickets range from $110 to $400 AR pesos. Dates might big show. The Jefe de Gobierno Aníbal Ibarra was be modified, removed and replaced and several culprits have faced trials and incarceration. Since then, there is a big fear of holding events in enclosed venues and it For more information: is close to impossible to get a licence to do a show in a smaller venue. http://www.cultura.mendoza.gov.ar/ Ever since the Cromañon tragedy it has been harder for rock bands to perform without the approval of big companies such as Ticketek or All Access. Vendimia Gay There are a lot of difficulties planning these events especially with musicians that bring in masses of fans. Indio Solari, one of the most famous musicians in Argentina, is probably the best example of the complexities that security has to face when without any kind of publicity other than a concert date more than 200000 people show up for a rock concert. Two people lost their lives in a humane avalanche in his last concert even though he tried to stop the crowds from pushing people forward.

14 15 Summer Nights in Mendoza

Long warm days entice people out to have a drink, maybe an “after office” or a planned rendezvouz.

City Vibes

El Perro de Lombardo El Perro Lombardo

This new gastronomic pub by the same owners as El Mercadito, called El Perro de Lombardo, is making an impression. The concept is simple but well thought with no formalities. Just grab a table and enjoy high quality food. El Perro (the dog) offers a chance to mingle in a cosmopolitan space.. The name comes from an imaginary dog trying food from all over the world with no fork and knife and decides to settle in Mendoza because of the beauty of the mountains and the lifestyle. Options range from falafel to cous cous salad to burgers and you can pair it a with a cold beer or glass of wine. The bite of the week is very Hangar 52 Beer Garden affordable at $160 pesos which includes a dish of the day + non-alcoholic drink or beer. The bar is at Arístides This place is perfect if you want to reward yourself Villanueva 537. with a beer after a bit of exercise. Hangar 52 opened a second place in Godoy Cruz in the summer and it’s a proven success. Just a couple of paces away from the Los Gulinis Streetbar bikeway connecting the city of Mendoza to Godoy Cruz, it has become the perfect spot for joggers, bikers and dog Located on Juan B. Justo street, this bar is excellent walkers to hang around for a quick refreshment before for an easy night out. It is very common to see families coming home. It has food trucks with many different and friends sitting down for a bite and beer. They have options and 8 different varieties of beer every night. 10 crafted beers to choose from and the sandwiches are excellent. Av. Juan B. Justo 429, Mendoza. Happy Hour is until 21.30 for only $100 pesos and there is a DJ making sure the crowds are entertained. Av. San Martin 709, Godoy Cruz. 17 Chacras de Coria Barijho

Barijho, the original beer garden

Barijho was one of the first to provide a place for people to get together and enjoy the afternoons in a place as wonderful as Chacras de Coria. Chacras is full of gorgeous wineries and it is several degrees cooler than the city of Mendoza. The bar is actually a restored winery and the ambience is super cool and relaxed. It has one of the best drink menu and bar food in town. Viamonte 4961.

Chiringuito ,Lujan de Cuyo.

Chiringuito

A pub in Chacras de Coria that turns into a club at night. The food is great and they have a simple menu with quality ingredients. The same can be said of their cocktails, try their coconut mojito. You won’t regret it. Music and dancing go on inside the venue but be warned, the club doesn’t get going until 1 – 2 am. If the venue gets too hot and crowded their magnificent gardens provide the perfect break. Darragueira 6841, Chacras de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. Mountain Air Pircas in Maipú

When the heat becomes unbearable, the best option is to After a long day of wine tasting there’s nothing better leave the city behind and go up to the mountains. than stopping for a refreshing beer before coming back to the city. Pircas is in Padre Vazquez Street very close to the Bikini Parador old wineries in Maipú. This beer garden is very similar to the European ones where the concept of biergärten was It is located in Potrerillos which is on the way to Chile on created. It is becoming increasingly common to share Route 7. The views are magnificent so bring your camera tables and conversations with strangers who by the and you can relax by the poolside, enjoy drinks and the end of the night might become life long friends. Padre DJ will make you sway to the music. It opens on Sundays Vazquez 673, Maipú, Mendoza. and they do sunset parties running from 2 pm to 11pm. Perfect for escaping those sticky Sunday evenings in the city. International Route 7, Km 1102 Potrerillos, Mendoza, Argentina.

Sandía Parador Bikini Sandía (watermelon) is a bar in the middle of the mountain that is oddly similar to a beach bar. You will find a pool, ping-pong table, live music and delicious drinks. The watermelon mojito is a must and their shows always include rock bands from Mendoza. It serves lunch and dinner and it is in Potrerillos as well. Camino del Huarpe 5549, Mendoza. No entrance fee except when there is a show. It works from 13.30pm to 12am from Wednesdays to Sundays.

18 19 20 21 BARS

INSIDE MENDOZA CITY

The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LA TABERNA DE MOE This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer. Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317

ANTARES BAR Aristides street would not be very complete without its own micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer in this respect with bars located across the country since before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153. EL BOTELLÓN Located in the 5th Section towards the San Martin Park and on Sarmiento 635 this bar has at least 14 varieties – Nuevo Origen, La Palmira, Fulana, Maleva y Portal, amongst others. You can fill your own bottle and they have a gluten free option. In Sarmiento Street, don’t be deceived by their modest façade, once you enter the premises, the bar is huge. They have an upstairs region as well as their big patio where there’s a drink bar that is becoming the ‘it’ place in Mendoza for thirsty office workers to finish their day with happy hour. BELIEVE IRISH PUB One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part- owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music- video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. HANGAR 52 www.believeirishpub.com.ar This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth, well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinker´s curse in Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables, resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip. Aristides 168.

22 BIKE TOURS In Maipú

The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended Wineries Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae, Alandes and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent “El Enemigo”.

USEFUL INFORMATION

AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right: (261) 156416 047 - Clark 298 corner. Olascoaga. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

EVERYTHING YOU NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT TIPPING BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK It’s a cultural minefield and a frequent topic amongst tourists and locals. Here we try to unravel the thorny subject of tipping by answering the most frequent questions. - Should I tip? Yes. Mendocinos are too nice to push the point but those who work in hospitality, especially waiters, are very much dependent on gratuities. - Who should I tip? Most definitely your lunch or dinner waiter and to a lesser extent your driver and wine tour guide if you are happy with the service. - What should I tip? 10% is the norm for meals or if in doubt 100 pesos is reasonable. - Is the winery lunch tip not included with the wine tour package? No.

23 DINING OUT Recommended

healthy breakfasts and antioxidants juices, El Mercadito stays open throughout the siesta with its light MENDOZA menu of sandwiches, big salads and some Argentine classic meals. CITY Aristides Villanueva 521. Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190. Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel - 4962267.

La Patrona Pizzaiolo

Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a Minimalistic but full of flavor is how Los Toneles casual, rustic charm attracts with you can describe Pizzaiolo. This is a traditional Argentine food and true Italian food shop with excellent friendly and warm atmosphere. pizzas and Italian dishes such as Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado calzones, bruschettas and pastas. If you Los Toneles go with warm, open sandwiches. We have a sweet tooth we recommend recommend the artichoke hearts the tiramisu and lemon Semifreddo. Located 15 minutes walk beyond the and goat cheese; roasted vegetables The owners, Esteban and Karim Fahra city center, this handsome historical with and honey; or the and Pablo Nievas, are no strangers winery offers Old World elegance more traditional pick of rich glands to successful businesses since their and atmosphere. The expansive cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel: families ran ‘La Buona Pizza’ and ‘De restaurant serves traditional dishes (261) 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm- un Rincón de la Boca’ two of the most with a gourmet twist and it’s the 3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal famous pizza places in Mendoza. perfect lunch or dinner spot for those cost: $350. Sarmiento 631. Tel: (261) 420-0181. who have just arrived and want Mon. to Sun.: 12pm to 1am. Avg. Meal some genuine Mendocino ambience . Josefina cost:$300 Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel - 431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday Trendy and cosmopolitan, Josefina Torito lunch and dinner. Restó is an island of elegance on hectic Aristides Street. The building Torito is alluring the crowds to Juan is a playful mix of the urbane and B Justo Street, the new IT place in Grill Q the natural. The warmth of Mendoza for a night out. Classic style drawings adorning the walls Argentinean comfort food is cooked are illuminated through large, on a huge grill with very traditional handsome street windows. The options such as burgers, lomos (steak food is eclectic and seasonal. www. sandwiches) and cuts of beef. Fresh josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides and excellent quality ingredients are Villanueva 165, Mendoza 5500, used and the menu includes vegan Argentina – Tel. 261 4233531 and gluten free options. Football fans are welcome to big games and their outside courtyard is perfect El Mercadito for balmy summer nights. www. facebook.com/toritotime Juan B. The perfect spot for some lunch time Justo 234, Mendoza 5500, Argentina sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by – Tel. 0261 423-3394 three friends, El Mercadito has a cool vibe and relaxed music making it a favorite. Opening in the morning for El Perro Lombardo The new gastronomic pub is causing a great first impression. The concept is simple but well thought of as there Grill Q Josefina are no formalities when sitting down Chic parrilla style restaurant (part on the table but to concentrate on of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open the quality of the food. El Perro or kitchen. Famous for grilled meats the dog offers a chance to mingle in and gigantic empanadas, and serves a cosmopolitan environment. The hearty Argentine classics such as options range from falafel to cous ‘locro’ – a stew that hails back to cous salad to burgers and you can pair the early independence days. The it a cold beer or glass of wine. The bite Hyatt’s other restaurant, Bistro M, of the week is very affordable only at offers a more gourmet evening menu $160 pesos which includes a dish of and the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ the day + non-alcoholic drink or beer. in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225. The bar is in Arístides Villanueva Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro 537. Tel 4638847 M - Executive Menu $280.

24 Recommended DINING OUT

Ruca Malen Ruca Malen winery is synonymous OUTSIDE with gourmet food & wine pairings in Mendoza and was a pioneer in this area. Having lunch in Ruca THE CITY Malen is also a visual experience, from the food served in creative plates designed especially for the occasion by local craftsmen to the breathtaking view one gets of the Finca Agostino Andes and the vineyard. It also offers great vegetarian and gluten-free The property is beautiful full options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo, of gardens and vineyards. The Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 restaurant matches the elegance of the 553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236. AlPasión outside with a tasteful and polished [email protected] setting. My favorite is the hospitality of the staff. From beginning to end Prímula Cantina Ferroviaria your experience will be accompanied Los Negritos by the smiles and politeness of the A small, genuine restaurant that is a tourism and restaurant staff. The Family-owned restaurant in the homage to Mendoza’s railway heritage. food is a 5 course reverie to the senses rustic splendor of Las Vegas in Part of the winery Estrellas de los Andes, that will take you through the native Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This this cantina is the Argentinean version ingredients of Mendoza with very is without doubt the best restaurant of a 50’s diner. The atmosphere is relaxed modern techniques. Pablo and Carlos in the mountains, specializing in and immediately transports you back to Torres, we’ll often explain the dishes traditional family recipes that add the good old days. You can even have and pairings. The menu is seasonal a new twist to Andean fare such as your lunch in an old restored wagon. The with much of the ingredients freshly humitas, tomatican and mondongo. setting is not pretentious and nor is the picked from the property’s organic The restaurant itself is simple and food. The menu consists of three courses vegetable garden and orchard. modern with no frills, but the food of with 3 to 4 options in every course. The Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipú. Tel – course. Open weekends and public options change every week according to 5249358. Mon to Sun 13pm to 4pm. holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg the season and the availability of local Avg. meal price: $1000 pesos. $250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas, products, made on a huge outdoor grill Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431. and mud oven. Olavarria 225, Perdriel, Finca Agostino Lujan de Cuyo. Tel 261 2213899 from Tuesday to Sunday and holidays from Lunch in a Winery 11am to 18 pm

Whatever you do in Mendoza, make sure to have lunch in a winery. There is nothing quite like sitting back to a long line of wine glasses holding delicious , Torrontes, and (amongst others), accompanied by the finest, gourmet food Argentina has to offer. The icing on the cake is that icing on the Andes in the background and the lush green vines of the vineyard. It is definitely the most civilised way to get drunk on La Azul the planet.

La Azul Casarena Restaurant Lares de Chacras A pioneer in the Uco Valley region, The view and setting is gorgeous. this boutique winery now offers One of Mendoza’s most charming Surrounded by vineyards, this hearty lunches in a rustic setting with boutique wine hotels has now opened modern and elegant restaurant stunning views of the mountains. its excellent restaurant to the general allows for a charming and gourmet Family-owned , the owners are often public. Located in the picturesque experience. The menu is designed by your hosts and they take pride in wine village of Chacras de Coria, star chef Lucas Bustos concentrating serving giant portions of excellent a 20 minute drive from the city, in a sustainable and organic cuisine. beef and pork dishes, accompanied Lares offers traditional local dishes The surprise of the menu is the by the winery’s excellent, high in a rustic deluxe environment. delicious pairing with their wines altitude wines. Popular, authentic Every Wednesday they offer asado, but also a cider. Brandsen 505, Luján and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras de Cuyo. Tel – (+54) 9 261 696 7848 . Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato. de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www. Mon. to Sat. 12:30pm to 3pm. Avg. Tel - (02622) 423 593. laresdechacras.com/ meal price: $1200 pesos.

25 THE WINERY GUIDE

Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Los Toneles

City Center winery Los Toneles has a charming Old World feel CITY and excellent restaurant. It is a five minute walk east of the bus station.”Dirección: Acceso Este Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza. (0261) 431-0403. Open everyday. www.bodegalostoneles.com Los Toneles Clos de Chacras Cruzat

Charming boutique operation with A boutique traditional nice history. A five minute walk producer with gorgeous bubbles that from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran LUJÁN can be enjoyed from their terrace Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706. overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. DE CUYO Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.closdechacras.com.ar www.bodegacruzat.com

Terrazas de los Andes Melipal Alta Vista

The fine wine sister of Chandon Great Malbec and gourmet lunches Masterful mix of modern and Argentina is a beautifully restored make Melipal one of the most traditional. Tasting includes bodega with well-appointed tasting exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) distinctive Torrontes or single room. Best Wine: Cheval de los 4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, vineyard . (0261) 496 4684. Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de com.ar de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Mendel Matervini Terrazas de los Andes An old style winery ran by one of Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago Argentina’s most famous winemaker Achaval and Robert Cipresso, dynasties the De La Motta family. break new, exciting ground with (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor rich, mineral wines from unusual Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. . This tiny, boutique mendel.com.ar operation only sells from the winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com. Viña Cobos Tel. 261 5616691. Luigi Bosca American winemaker Paul Hobbs Belasco de Baquedano The Arizu dynasty are the royal was one of the first to recognise family of and their the possibilities of Malbec and his Gleaming modern facility with seat of operations is a handsome and Bramare label is possibly one of the fascinating aroma room and restaurant elegant 110-year old winery. (0261) best examples of this . (0261) with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www. Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www. www.vinacobos.com belascomalbec.co luigibosca.com.ar

Catena Zapata Ciudad Showcase winery designed like a Mayan temple overlooking Luján de Cuyo vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. Maipú Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. Valle de Uco catenawines.com Belasco de Baquedano

Tapiz Nieto Senetiner

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high- Located in a beautiful old winery end restaurant Terruño and an in Chacras, Senetiner was founded instructive wine tour including in 1888 and makes a great range of barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz. Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner. com com.ar

26 THE WINERY GUIDE

Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Benegas Lynch Carmelo Patti Chandon

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Mendoza’s most famous garagista. The original foreign investor, French- old bodega with lots of character. Carmelo Patti himself is often there owned Chandon has been making Best Wine: . (0261) to show you around (in Spanish). Best great sparkling wines in Mendoza 496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. www.bodegabenegas.com barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. 2614, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar Caelum Decero Modern, medium size winery on Chandon the main road to Chile just before Attractive, modern facility with the mountains and has a nice spectacular views of the mountains family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Vistalba Dominio del Plata Tasting room where one entire wall Ruca Malen Argentina´s most famous female is a subterranean cross section of the winemaker Susana Balbo is creating actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Excellent food, great guiding and some rich and complex wines in the Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. first-class wines. The pairings over heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. lunch make for an unforgettable Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de www.carlospulentawines culinary experience. (0261) Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar 5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www. bodegarucamalen.com Renacer Dominio del Plata This Chilean-owned winery creates Estrella de los Andes the label Punto Final. Small, modern operation with tours that include Old World winery and canteen style a hands-on lesson in blending. Vistalba restaurant with a railway theme. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. Simple and authentic. (0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www. Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190 bodegarenacer.com.ar Budeguer [email protected]

Lagarde Modern-style Budeguer winery offers you the chance to blend Owner of the oldest white wine in wine and art in a warm and relaxed South America. Try the hand-crafted atmosphere. Its superb terrace is sparkling wine made from 100 open until 8pm and it is the perfect year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying 27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745, the sunset. Reservations required Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. at [email protected] or (0261) www.lagarde.com.ar 6830749- www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Casarena Cuyo. Mendoza. Kaiken

A beautiful mix of old and new, Dante Robino this winery mixes tradition and Achaval Ferrer modernity in an old style winery Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old- with a super modern restaurant with Modern boutique close to Mendoza style winery with a modernist, light- splendid views of the vineyards and riverbed. Big concentrated wines. filled tasting room with excellent mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, view of mountains and vines. www.casarenawines.com (261) Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón 6967848. com Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www. bodegadanterobino.com Kaiken Familia Cassone This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious A charming, family owned winery Chilean winery Montes. Big and in a beautiful setting. Try the powerful wines, destined for fame. jasmine tinted amidst the (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile pastoral splendour of the owner’s (0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155 expansive garden. Anchorena y Casarena 509 453) Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www. familiacassone.com.ar

27 THE WINERY GUIDE

Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Septima Alpamanta Catena Zapata

A beautifully designed winery with Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set Showcase winery designed like clear views of the mountains and a in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche. a Mayan temple overlooking large terrace used for sunset wine Ideal for families and nature lovers. vineyards and the Andes Mountains. events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan www.alpamanta.com Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com catenawines.com

Pulenta Estate Norton

Cool minimalist design and rich Old-style cellars contrast with a high- complex wines make this a winery tech production line. Tank and barrel with finesse and style. Best Wine: MAIPU tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. are popular with the locals. (0261) Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel. www.pulentaestate.com Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Trez Wines AMP Three friends making award Rutini / La Rural winnning wine in a small, circular Premium wines made from different winery.Tel. 4877085 y Well-stocked museum with terroirs but all by renowned winemaker +54 9 2616854019. invaluable antiques like cowhide Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings [email protected] wine presses and buckets. Giant and a close proximity to the city make oak tanks stand in large, cavernous it a recommended visit. Gómez Adriano halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, (261) 4813201/4668048 Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Don Manuel Villafañe Lopez 25 Tempus Alba 4 Modern winery in the wide open Popular, old-style winery with two Charming family run winery with vineyards of southern Maipú. museums on the wine. Restaurant modern facilities and terrace with a Intense, complex wines. Art offers gourmet cuisine with a view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel. exhibition all year long. Ruta 60 panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. 4813501. www.tempusalba.com. s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipú. (0261) Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. 5083067. www.dmvwines.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar. Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial Carinae Finca Agostino Trapiche Small, charming, French-owned Elegant and picturesque winery winery offering personal tours and with ancient vines and walled Argentina’s biggest winery is a well-honed wines. Surrounded by orchard. Offer superb lunches and mix of old and new, traditional and vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499 cookery classes. Carril Barrancas industrial, and has the old train 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de 10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www. tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 Piedra, Maipú . ncaagostino.com 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www.carinaevinos.com www.trapiche.com.ar

El Enemigo

One of Argentina’s most talented winemakers Alejandro Vigil opens the door to this colorful and unconventional boutique operation. Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered. Carinae Finca Agostino Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261) Rutini Museum Finca Agostino 697 4213 Familia Cecchin

Familia Zuccardi A family winery using organic and biodynamic principles where you A professional, far-sighted operation. can see the entire process from the Attractive restaurant amidst the beautiful green vineyards to the vines, famous for its asado-style minimal intervention winery. (0261) lunches and generous wine pourings. 497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before (0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Casa El Enemigo reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

28 THE WINERY GUIDE

Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Familia Di Tommasso Trivento Trivento Officially the second oldest winery in Located in the bucolic splendour of Mendoza and still run by Argentine southern Maipu, Trivento is owned hands. Their charming and rustic by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This restaurant looks onto the vineyard, modern winery has a beautiful deck set just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www. excursions within the property. Ruta 60 familiaditommaso.com y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza. (0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com

Finca Sophenia The Vines of Mendoza Modern, high tech winery in A cooperative of international wine VALLE stunning location. High quality lovers who have all bought a vineyard wines overseen by Matias Michellini. plot each in Uco Valley to make their www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154- own wine with experts. Add to this DE UCO 45622 a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley Domaine Bousquet will never be the same again. Ruta 94, Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900 Atamisque Another French transplant to the Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, Salentein This Uco winery has some great this sizeable operation produces white wines, a unique stony roof and high altitude Chardonnay, Designed like a temple to wine, this they breed their own trout which is and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato. ultra-concept winery includes a served in the charming restaurant. www.domainebousquet.com (0261) modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel (0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San 5274048 set high in the Andean valley. (02622) Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque. 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www. com killkasalentein.com Corazon del Sol La Azul A stark, modern winery with big, Simple, small production winery concentrated reds. Californian with not so simple Malbecs, a small owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel. traditional restaurant and now a 0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol. beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P com. 89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com Andeluna Salentein The old-world style tasting room La Azul looks upon dramatic views of Diamandes vineyards against mountains. Probably the best gourmet lunch Modern, imposing winery with in the winery. (02622) 423 226 magnificent wines, part of Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, prestigious French group Clos de los Tupungato. www. andeluna.com Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland. Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261) 4760695. O. Fournier Bodega Masi Most architecturally innovative Fascinating Italian job in the heart of winery with rich, concentrated Tupungato with commanding views wines. Excellent lunches in the and commanding wines, especially modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 Andeluna the Amarone inspired and 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. Carlos. www.ofournier.com www.masitupungato.com Piedra Infinita Gimenez Riili Innovative, elegant and modern, Piedra Infinita is the imposing, A brand new family run affair, part dramatic contribution of Familia of the exciting Vines of Mendoza Zuccardi in Uco Valley.. Open project. This is a modern winery in from Wednesday to Sunday. www. a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/ zuccardiwines.com. 0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Mendoza.

29 30 31 32 MAP OF WINE TOUR MAIPÚ

33 MAP OF SAN MARTIN PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

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