robert m . parker, jr without angelo gaja on the artisan’s fear or faVor life | wine in cinema | explore+ How a lone visionary became the loire | the bottled muse | “the world’s most prized palate” designer corkscrews MoT_COVER_4OK.indd 2 23/1/14 5:34 PM 28459CARSG_PUWA1600_AMOT DPS 276x210mm 2SP OL_Eng_WTC.indd 1 1/9/14 5:44 PM 28459CARSG_PUWA1600_AMOT DPS 276x210mm 2SP OL_Eng_WTC.indd 2 1/9/14 5:45 PM TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. AN EVOLUTION OF THE RULE BREAKING AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK LUXURY SPORTS WATCH, THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE POSSESSES A DRAMATIC AND PURPOSEFUL AESTHETIC THAT TURNS FUNCTIONAL ELEMENTS INTO ICONIC DESIGN FEATURES. AT 44 MILLIMETRES DIAMETER, THE OFFSHORE COMMANDS A UNIQUE PRESENCE, AND IS RESOLUTELY GEARED TOWARDS POWER AND PERFORMANCE. UNIQUELY, THOSE SURFACES MOST EXPOSED TO TRAUMA ARE EXECUTED IN HIGHLY INNOVATIVE MATERIALS. HERE THE SIGNATURE OCTAGONAL BEZEL AND PUSHPIECES ARE FORMED IN HIGH-DENSITY CERAMIC – SCRATCHPROOF AND SEVEN TIMES HARDER THAN STEEL. ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE IN PINK GOLD AND CERAMIC. CHRONOGRAPH. MATTERmatter OFof TASTEtaste | CONTENTS 7 WELCOME For e Wine Advocate’s Editor in Chief, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, and Y. C. Koh, President, Asia at American Express International, Inc., it’s all a “Matter of Taste” 10 ORIGINS From the First Drop Archaeologists believe wine was being made even before written records began 20 VITAL VESSELS 52 WINE WORLD A Glass Act Made of Stone Does the size and shape of e picturesque Loire Valley is home glassware really impact upon to magni cent châteaux and excellence your enjoyment of ne wine? in winemaking 30 INTERVIEW 58 DOING FINE State of the Artisan Humble Beginnings Iconic Italian winemaker Angelo Asian wine lovers are increasingly Gaja’s principles have made him a discovering the joys of collecting. legend in the industry ey share their top tips 34 THE CRAFT 62 LABEL LOGIC Top of the Barrels Surface Pleasures For the perfectionist winemaker, the ey say it’s impossible with books, oak tree’s importance to character but can one judge a wine by its and air is immeasurable creative cover? 38 NOTED 68 BUY & CELLAR Working Wonders Accounting for Taste e Wine Advocate is globally admired A sample selection of e Wine for its practical yet entertaining Advocate’s informative reviews content. What’s its secret? from 2013 42 MAKING THE GRADE 78 ART & SOUL Team Players When Palate Meets Palette Introducing e Wine Advocate’s History’s most accomplished artists unrivalled panel of expert have always looked longingly to tasters and reviewers the bottled muse 84 ON THE MOVE II THE INDEPENDENT Hit the Spots 14A Dispassionate Affair Take your pick of the planet’s The quest for truth has brought coolest city wine bars ON THE MOVE international acclaim for The Wine California Dreaming Advocate’s dedicated founder, THE LAST WORD TOOL UP! 22 Robert M. Parker, Jr. 88 Wine has played a starring A Funny ing Happened Opening Acts role on the silver screen. That’s on the Way to the Tasting! Who would46 have thought the humble especially true not so far Wine is a serious business, and corkscrew could be an object of such from Hollywood occasionally it’s surprising, too beauty? Check out the best COVER PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES 04 05 MoT_CONTENTS_RV4_OK.indd 4 23/1/14 5:35 PM MoT_CONTENTS_RV4_OK.indd 5 23/1/14 5:35 PM matter of taste | contributors welcome | matter of taste Welcome to Matter of Taste magazine – a unique publication that provides a vivid glimpse into the elegantly engaging world of fine wines and fine-wine culture. Since 1978, renowned bi-monthly journal Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate has been a global leader in delivering unbiased wine reviews, earning an enviable reputation as the independent consumer’s guide to fine wine. Now, laced with additional histories, profiles and colorful feature articles, Matter of Taste Robin Gary Charmaine Diana Ed goes behind the scenes to demystify The Wine Advocate’s methods, Lynam Bowerman Chan d ’Arenberg Peters bringing you that much closer to the professional critics that not only shape but make Robin Lynam is a Gary Bowerman is Charmaine Chan Diana d’Arenberg is an Ed Peters’ wine the global fine-wine market. Hong Kong-based co-founder of Scribes started her journalism collection would be art and culture writer. Readers of Matter of Taste also enjoy access to entertaining and informative features journalist specializing of the Orient, a media career 20 years ago She has contributed one of the largest in on the world’s most iconic regions, wineries, winemakers and labels. What’s more, you’ll in travel, food and and marketing services in Sydney, Australia to Harper’s Bazaar Asia if he hadn’t drunk drink, and arts and agency with bases in and has since worked Singapore, South China most of it. Having receive invaluable pointers from The Wine Advocate reviewer team on a number of wines culture. He contributes Hong Kong, Kuala at newspapers and Morning Post, High toured wineries in to drink, cellar and collect thanks to a sample medley of impartial recommendations to a wide variety of Lumpur and Shanghai. magazines in Tokyo Magazine, The Art Europe, China and to suit various budgets. publications, and writes Formerly the editor and Hong Kong. She Newspaper, Ocula.com Australia for research With helpful suggestions on everything from wine bars worth visiting in cities around regular columns on of Shanghai Business was literary editor purposes, he is not and other publications, the world and innovative designer corkscrews to a concise guide to how oak barrels help in wines and spirits for the Review and Shanghai at the South China as well as to her own unfamiliar with the South China Morning editor for Luxe Guides Morning Post before blog, post-ism.com. term “wrath of grapes,” the maturing of fine wines, there is something within these pages to suit everyone, from Post, Gafencu, Bar Talk and Zagat Survey, being appointed the She is also the former a pertinent aphorism the new wine enthusiast to the professional oenophile. and Hong Kong Golfer. he has contributed newspaper’s design editor and co-founder if not exactly original. He is also the South articles, hotel and editor eight years ago. of Framed, a Hong As a prolific writer, I hope you will find Matter of Taste to be as fun to read as it is practical. China Morning Post’s destination reviews She has also worked Kong art and culture Ed has contributed jazz columnist. In from across Asia for as deputy editor at the magazine dedicated to the Telegraph, Cheers! Matter of Taste, Robin Condé Nast Traveller, Asia Literary Review to profiling artists, Guardian, Condé Nast investigates how oak Business Traveller and and as a freelance collectors and designers. Traveller and many barrels impact upon Concierge.com. He writer for publications Here, Diana explores other publications. He fine wines (page 34). is currently writing a worldwide. In this how contemporary investigates how to book about the Chinese issue, Charmaine wineries are getting start a rewarding wine travel industry to be highlights some of the creative with their labels collection (page 58). published in late 2014. best corkscrews on the (page 62), and wine’s LISA PERROTTI-BROWN MW Here, Gary visits market (page 46). role in great art through EDITOR IN ChIEf, ThE WINE ADvOCATE superb city wine bars the centuries (page 78). worldwide (page 84). Editor GARY JONES; Creative Director CATHERINE WONG; Graphic Designer MATTHEW TEO; Advertising Sales ANN LEE; Production Manager SIMON HO; Publisher JULIE SHERBORN Consultant: LISA PERROTTI-BROWN MW, Editor in Chief, The Wine Advocate & eRobertParker.com Matter of Taste is published on behalf of The Wine Advocate by Burda Singapore Pte. Ltd. (201114280C) a division of Burda International, 1008 Toa Payoh North #07-11, Singapore 318996. T: +65 6256 6201. Printed by KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd (Co. Reg. No. 197801823M). Disclaimer: The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors and participants featured in Matter of Taste do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of The Wine Advocate, Burda Singapore Pte. Ltd. or their employees. No payment was made to The Wine Advocate or its employees by any of the products, brands or services mentioned in Matter of Taste. Matter of Taste does not accept advertising from wineries, wine distributors or other wine-related businesses. 06 0 7 MoT_CONTRIBUTORS_V6_OK.indd 6 23/1/14 5:48 PM MoT_ED LETTER_RV_OK.indd 7 24/1/14 4:46 PM matter of taste | welcome At American Express, customer experience is of paramount importance. Delivering premium customer service and experience, is at the core of everything that we do. It has kept us in the forefront of the market place, enriching the lives of our customers. With more than 160 years of experience in serving Card Members around the world, American Express has deep understanding of the needs of our most premium Card Members and how fine taste enhances their lifestyle experiences. American Express has set and defined industry standards for premium cards and upmarket lifestyle experiences. We continually strive to provide our Card Members with premium access, experiential leisure and lifestyle events, from private showings, wine tasting, fine dining, culinary events and golf championships. We are thrilled to partner with The Wine Advocate and present Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Grand World Tour 2014 in five Asian cities, including Hong Kong, Singapore, Beijing, Shanghai and Kuala Lumpur in February and March 2014. Acknowledged by The Financial Times as “the world’s most prized palate,” Robert Parker is arguably one of the world’s most influential wine critics.