Castle

The City of Glorenza

Trauttmansdorff Castle Culturonda® Ladin, German and Italian Gewürztraminer, Lagrein and Vernatsch 12 ways to explore culture and ’s way of life The Dolomites Ötzi the Ice Man

Alpine Farms

Of Copper and Silver

Novacella Abbey

Of Knödel and Spaghetti (everywhere in South Tyrol)

Of Brass and Wood Karo Druck Karo PRINTING: Cassandra Han Viti | Han Viti Cassandra : TRANSLATION Gabriele Crapaz | Crapaz Gabriele TEXTS: TEXTS: InQuadro | InQuadro : South Tyrol Marketing Group/Alex Filz, Frieder Blickle, Stefano Scatà; Marketing/Frieder Blickle; Valle Isarco/Eisacktal Tourist Bureau/Alex Filz; Filz; Bureau/Alex Tourist Isarco/Eisacktal Valle Blickle; Marketing/Frieder Merano Scatà; Stefano Blickle, Frieder Filz, Group/Alex Marketing Tyrol South PHOTOGRAPHY:  PHOTOGRAPHY: Ochsenreiter; Archaeology/Augustin of Museum Tyrol South Pichler; Museion/Günther Mair; Bureau/Roswitha Tourist Environs and Grüner; Bureau/Thomas Tourist Pusteria/Hochpustertal Alta Kienzl Kuadrat/Harald Andergassen; Tramin/Florian Cantina Gelmini; Castle/Marion Trauttmansdorff of Gardens The Plissart; Tyrol/MF. South of Institute Cultural AND DESIGN CONCEPT

1/4/12 2:32 PM 2:32 1/4/12 1 40.indd

50  0

Verona 4 5

4 5

Milano Venezia

4 5 Brescia

4 5

Trauttmansdorff Castle The Dolomites Novacella Abbey          

Treviso Bergamo 4 5

4 5

South Tyrol’s Sunniest Gardens The World’s Most Beautiful Mountains South Tyrol’s Most Splendid Abbey

Lugano

By the middle of the nineteenth century, doctors were already making “The Dolomites are not the highest or most challenging mountains, but Abbazia di Novacella, an Augustinian Canons Regular abbey located near 2

Udine Trento 2 2 2

 good use of the mild winter climate and lush Mediterranean flora found they are the most beautiful,” says celebrated alpinist and extreme moun- Bressanone/, is the largest and best-known monastery complex in 

in Merano/Meran: these were important components for creating the ide- taineer Reinhold Messner. It took more than 250 million years of turbu- all Tyrol. Known is German as Kloster Neustift, it was founded in 1142: from

Bolzano/Bozen

5

al setting in which to care for spa guests. These visitors came to glamor- lent geological processes to create the Dolomites, a true natural wonder. the very beginning, it had a considerable amount of land and property. The 4

Cortina

2 2       



ous Merano from all over Europe in search of rest and relaxation and to The Dolomite formations came into being out of the algae-dominated Canons Regular still run the abbey today. The sublime, multifaceted exterior Merano/Meran

2 2

2

Bressanone/Brixen Glorenza/ 2 2

Brunico/

rub elbows with high society. The most prominent of them all was un- coral reefs of the warm, receding waters of the Tethys Sea. The interplay architecture of the complex and the magnificent treasures contained with- 2

der Drau Drau der

2 Chur

2 2

Spittal an Spittal Vipiteno/ doubtedly Empress Elisabeth of Austria, also known as Sissi, who twice between the pale sharp crags and pinnacles, the dark igneous rock and in are extremely impressive; the monastery library is particularly notewor- 2

made Trauttmansdorff Castle her winter retreat and stayed for several the lush green of the surrounding Alpine meadows is unparalleled. Hun- thy. The Well of Wonders, built in 1508, is also a real gem: in 1669, Abbazia Vaduz 2 2

Innsbruck

4 5

months each time. Today, the hillsides beneath the castle have been dreds of local legends tell of witches, nymphs, hobgoblins, wild men, and di Novacella itself was added to the well – depicted as the eighth wonder

Zürich

4 5

transformed into botanical gardens that showcase eighty cultivated and mysterious enchanted realms. The Dwarf King Laurin cursed his rose gar- Harvest time is Törggelen time of the world.

Bregenz

natural landscapes. The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle, in fact, was den: as a result, the Rosengarten Massif near Bolzano glows crimson in 2

       

named Europe’s No. 6 Garden. The Touriseum, a museum housed inside the sunset – and will continue to do so for all eternity. Since 2009, the Points of Interest 

12/18/11 4:46 PM 4:46 12/18/11 1 15.indd

Salzburg 4 5

Rosenheim the castle, covers the evolution of tourism in South Tyrol in a sophisticat- Dolomites have been a unesco World Natural Heritage Site. » A magnificent Rococo hall, weighty tomes with painstaking adorn- 2

ed yet entertaining way. Alpine Farms ment, old globes and maps, clocks in every style, and astronomical in-

München 4 5 Points of Interest struments and telescopes all serve to make the Abbey Library a verita- The art of woodcarving in in the Gardena Valley Points of Interest » The Great Dolomite Road opened in 1909; it ran from Bolzano/Bozen South Tyrol’s Highest Farms ble treasure trove. Housed within the library walls are 92,000 books » The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle comprises more than eighty through Canazei and Cortina all the way to Dobbiaco/. Cross- More than 10,000 people live on South Tyrol’s Alpine farms, which are of- and valuable manuscripts containing eight centuries of knowledge

natural and cultivated landscapes, diverse themed gardens, a number ing many high passes over 2,000 metres in altitude, it is one of the ten located on extremely steep and difficult terrain. Their main sources of about the universe. www.suedtirol.info/gettingthere of Artist Pavilions and Experience Stations – all nestled into a natural most beautiful panoramic roads in Europe. An excellent way to see the income are livestock farming and hay production. Without the mountain » The monks have been cultivating wine since the founding of the abbey. There Getting

Tyrol Castle amphitheatre. The ten Artists Pavilions and the Grotto reveal intrigu- Great Dolomite Road is by taking a guided bus tour. farmer’s physical labour, there would be no cultivated landscapes at these The quality of its wines today is built upon 850 years of experience and Standard – Map Südtirol ing secrets about the botanical world. » The Messner Mountain Museum, founded by Reinhold Messner, ad- elevations. Customs and traditions in the Alpine regions are still very the use of cutting-edge technology in the cellars. Abbazia di Novacella South Tyrol’s Mightiest Fortress » The Touriseum, located inside Trauttmansdorff Castle, pilots visitors dresses the theme of the mountains at five locations in South Tyrol and much alive; their enduring relevance has enabled them to survive through Winery still ranks amongst the best in South Tyrol. The abbey’s wines re- Castel Tirolo/Schloss Tirol was originally the family seat of the Counts of through an entertaining two hundred years of Alpine tourism and a Belluno. MMM Firmian, located inside Sigmundskron Castle south of the generations. But what keeps these mountain farmers at such heights, ceive awards year after year; the whites in particular are widely praised. Tyrol. The castle was the origin of the name that came into use after the rollercoaster of emotions: Mountains were viewed as menacing until Bolzano, forms the nucleus of the museum group. MMM Ripa at Bruneck where they must carve out an extremely arduous existence? A proud » The medieval wine cellars at Abbazia di Novacella: the products of region’s unification by Count Meinhard II in the thirteenth century: some city dwellers conquered the Dolomite peaks. After that, the Castle focusses on the everyday culture of mountain peoples. All of the sense of belonging, persevering in an ancient yet genuine world, and a these cellars were being exported and were thus already well known . From that time forward, the history of Tyrol has been in- heights became an ideal of high society, who admired the mountain exhibits are from Messner’s private collection. life in harmony with nature. This way of life may seem idyllic to towns- abroad way back in the Middle Ages. The vineyards surrounding Abba- extricably linked with the name of the castle. In the fifteenth century, in backdrop from the safety of hotel terraces. » Four of South Tyrol’s nature parks are located in the Dolomites. Geolo- people, but to the farm families it is simply daily reality. zia di Novacella are ’s northernmost, and yield mainly white wines. fact, the Tyrolean nobles even declared that they would swear fealty only

» The Sissi Promenade leads to the spectacular Viewing Platform, which gists refer to Puez–Geisler Nature Park as the “site office of the Dolo- to the lord of Tyrol Castle. The castle has long since lost its political pow- www.historischergastbetrieb.it

was based upon an idea by star architect Matteo Thun: standing atop it, mites”. Fanes–Sennes– Nature park is an ideal habitat for many Points of Interest Abbazia di Novacella, Novacella/Neustift

er, of course. Today, visitors follow an interactive circuit that runs through one has the feeling of hovering freely in mid-air. animal species. phone: +39 0472 836 189 · www.abbazianovacella.it · Duration: half day service: customer temporary

» The Muthof Farms are located on a steep mountainside high above www.redrooster.it

-

the castle complex: the exhibit highlights milestones of the region’s his- Schlern–Rosengarten Nature Park focusses on South Tyrol’s mountain con provide also that tradition

Merano. They are easily accessible by taking the cable car that runs up www.fws.it

tory and its art. Another permanent exhibition presents South Tyrol’s long The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle, Merano/Meran emblems. Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen Nature Park is dedicated and architecture for sense a with

from the village of Tirolo/Tirol. A visit is a great way to gain insight into lodging: provide

struggle for its autonomous statutes, a set of laws that grant the province > Gardens phone: +39 0473 235 730 · www.trauttmansdorff.it to the big names, highlighting mountain climbers like Franz Innerko- Tyrol South in hotels High-quality

just how difficult farming on steep terrain really is. that vintners Tyrolean South

Of Knödel and Spaghetti Hospitality Historical

far-reaching power and responsibility for governing its own affairs. > Touriseum phone: +39 0473 270 172 · www.touriseum.it fler and the Zsigmondy brothers. » The Viles of the Badia/Gadertal Valley are situated on steep hillsides. Winery a at Staying

Duration: full day These traditional Ladin hamlets always comprised a group of closely Fusion of North and South www.redrooster.it

Points of Interest Several South Tyrolean travel companies and tourist associations offer www.belvita.it

built Paarhof farm structures; there was a communal oven and fountain South Tyrol’s delicious Speck ham tastes rather mild in comparison with Tyrol: South in

» The portals of the Great Hall and chapel are among the most outstand- what is known as the Grand Dolomite Tour. If you decide not to use a beauty & healthy cuisine: cuisine: healthy & beauty on the village square. From Campill, a circuit trail leads to the Viles of the heavily smoked ham found in countries north of the Alps; it is, howev- holidays farm for portal Official

ing examples of Romanesque stonemasonry found in the Alps.

guide, calculate one day by car or motorcycle; if you go by bicycle or on fitness, wellness, on Frena, Seres, and Mischi and continues along Seresbach Stream into er, more savoury and aromatic compared to Mediterranean-style ham, Holidays Farm

» The castle’s keep houses an exhibition focussing on the recent history Ladin, German and Italian foot, the duration will depend on physical fitness and stamina. the Molini/Mühlental Valley. You can see eight restored mills along the which tends to be sweeter and blander. Similarly, South Tyrol’s cuisine focussing hotels spa four-star 30

of South Tyrol, with multimedia stations, contemporary documents, Relaxing Holidays Relaxing South Tyrol’s Linguistic Variety way: the farmers once used the water, and some still mill their corn combines the best of hearty Alpine fare with Mediterranean subtlety and www.suedtirol.info

and film/audio testimonies. MMM – Messner Mountain Museum

South Tyrol’s most prevalent language is German – more precisely, a south- here today. lightness. Whether enjoyed in a rustic Alpine hut or in an exclusive gour- bookings: online accept

» The Küchenhof (lit: Kitchen Courtyard) provides an intriguing glimpse > mmm Firmian: Sigmundskron Castle, Bolzano/Bozen, phone: +39 0471 631 264 www.idyllicplaces.com

ern Bavarian dialect that assumes a character of its own depending on the » Alpine farmers discovered long ago that mountain hay has a healing met restaurant, the region’s specialities are prepared using natural, sea- that establishments including

into everyday life during the Middle Ages.

> mmm Juval: Juval Castle, Castelbello/Kastelbell, phone: +39 348 44 33 871 life: contemporary with

valley, village or even hamlet in which it is being spoken. Around 68 per cent and relaxing effect on the body. You can still enjoy a South Tyrolean sonal, and locally grown ingredients. Tyrol, South in lodging

> mmm Ortles: Solda/Sulden, phone: +39 0473 613 577 tradition linking properties 13

of South Tyrol’s 510,000 inhabitants are native speakers of German while hay bath today, at any time throughout the year. of database Comprehensive

South Tyrol’s Museum for History and Culture, Tirolo/Tirol

> mmm Ripa: Bruneck Castle, phone: +39 0474 410 220 Places Idyllic some 25 per cent are native speakers of Italian. The majority of Italian native Points of Interest Lodging

phone: +39 0473 220 221 · www.casteltirolo.it > mmm Dolomites: Monte Rite, Cibiana di Cadore, phone: +39 0435 890 996

speakers live in the cities of Bolzano/Bozen, Merano/Meran and / Hochmuth Mountain Inn, Tirolo/Tirol » Be sure to try any one of South Tyrol’s twenty different types of Duration, including walk from the village of Tirolo: half day www.messner-mountain-museum.it Nights Relaxing – Days Eventful Leifers, and in the municipalities of Appiano/Eppan and Caldaro/Kaltern, to phone: +39 333 26 68 484 · www.hochmuth.it · Duration: half day Knödel dumplings – or perhaps even a combo plate with more than Duration: 1–3 hours per museum; 2–3 days for all museums the south of Bolzano. South Tyrol’s oldest language is Ladin: this Rhaeto- Viles of the Ladin Valleys one – at a traditional inn or restaurant. Romanic language is still spoken by some 18,000 people in the Gardena/ Nature Parks in the Dolomites Hike to the Campill Viles: Information available at the San Martino » You can also enjoy traditional Mediterranean cuisine in an intimate Gröden and Badia valleys, within the Dolomites. South Tyrol Information in Badia Tourist Association and authentic Italian ambience at one of Bolzano or Merano’s pizzerie. phone: +39 0471 999 999 · www.suedtirol.info/dolomites phone: +39 0474 523 175 · www.sanmartin.it · Duration: 1.5 hours » The PUR Südtirol speciality shop in Brunico/Bruneck and at the Points of Interest Kurhaus in Merano/Meran, carries an assortment of 1,500 products South Tyrol’s Bathing Culture » Take a stroll from Bolzano’s Municipio/Rathaus (city hall), along the that either come directly from South Tyrol’s farms or are processed in phone: +39 0471 068 163 · www.badlkultur.it · Duration: 2 hours portici/Lauben arcades, across the Talvera/Talfer River, and continue South Tyrol. Designer Harry Thaler designed both locations, using pure into Piazza Mazzini. This walk is a wonderful way to see the striking materials from South Tyrol in its construction, of course. juxtaposition between South Tyrol’s German and Italian lifestyles. » In South Tyrol’s many secluded side valleys, inhabitants have developed PUR Südtirol their own distinctive variations on the regional dialect. Some of the Merano phone: +39 0473 012 100 · Brunico phone: +39 0474 050 500 most easily recognisable are the valley patois of Val Sarentino/, Of Copper and Silver www.pursuedtirol.com north of Bolzano, and Valle Aurina/Ahrntal, north of Brunico/Bruneck. » The province’s Ladin museum, which is located at San Martino in Europe’s Highest Mines Badia/St. Martin in Thurn and housed inside Ciastel del Tor, provides The darkness of the passages and the light emanating from mining lamps fascinating insights into the history of the Ladin culture. dominated the lives of the miners. For centuries, they travelled deep into Of Brass and Wood the bowels of South Tyrol’s mountain ranges to extract copper, silver, Vibrant Alpine Customs You can book a city tour at the Bolzano and Environs Tourist Bureau lead, and zinc. Above ground, secluded mining villages sprung up, and Piazza Walther in Bolzano South Tyrol boasts twice as many local bands than municipalities. Many phone: +39 0471 307 000 · www.bolzano-bozen.it · Duration: 2 hours each developed its own way of life, embracing all cultural spheres. crafts are connected with tradition, for example South Tyrol’s famous The Rosengarten Massif in the Dolomites Equipped with hard hats and headlamps, visitors today can enjoy a first- Ciastel de Tor Ladin Museum, San Martino in Badia wood-sculptors and carvers, crib-makers and quill embroiderers. A large hand experience of this underworld – in total safety. The main street of phone: +39 0474 524 020 · www.museumladin.it · Duration: 2 hours number of South Tyroleans still own traditional costume, elements of The City of Glorenza Lasa/Laas, a mining village in the Venosta/ Valley, is paved in which provide a lot information about a person – including the valley white. The highly prized Lasa marble is still mined today. In fact, it is re- from which he or she hails and a man’s marital status. Best-Preserved City Wall in the Alps garded as the most weather-resistant white marble in the world. The smallest community in the entire Alpine region to bear the official

status of city has just 890 inhabitants. Glurns, known in Italian today as Gewürztraminer, Lagrein Ötzi the Iceman Points of Interest Points of Interest life of way Tyrol’s South

Glorenza, was originally a settlement in the Roman province of Rhaetia; » Music is in the air at town festivals: the brass band of Pfeffersberg,

The World’s Most Famous Mummy » The most fascinating thing about BergbauWelt (lit: World of Mining) at and culture explore to ways 12 and Vernatsch near Bressanone, is outstanding; in the municipality of Appiano, which

by the early Middle Ages, it belonged to the Bishopric of Chur (CH). Duke Culturonda

Ötzi “lives” under extreme conditions: behind a wall of eight-centimetre- Monteneve/Schneeberg Mountain is the presence of kilometre-long Meinhard II, Count of Tyrol, accorded market rights to Glorenza in 1290, only has 10,000 inhabitants, there are four bands; and in the Monguel- ® South Tyrol’s Unique Wine Culture thick, bulletproof glass at a temperature of minus six degrees centigrade tunnels that run throughout the whole mountain. In addition to whis- and the town charter was first mentioned in official documents a little fo/Welsberg Band, this traditionally male domain has been usurped – South Tyrol is the oldest wine region in the German-speaking area. The and in a controlled atmosphere of 98 per cent humidity. The box in which tle-stops below ground, the museum offers longer tours through the later, in 1304. The historical character of Glorenza has survived almost un- for over half of the members are women. Rhaetians, who arrived in the Alps way back in 800 BC, had already begun Ötzi is kept, located at the archaeological museum in Bolzano, thus repli- underworld. The mining village of San Martino di Monteneve/St. Mar- changed and the city remains an architectural gem. Its well-preserved » Woodcarvers – especially those of the Gardena/Gröden Valley – domi- cultivating wine on pergolas and using wooden barrels for storage and cates the conditions that prevailed at the rocky hollow on the Senales Val- tin am Schneeberg, which is located at an elevation of 2,355 metres and ring wall, dating from the sixteenth century, has three bastilles guarding nate and preserve a craft that is centuries old. Since 1994, many Val transport. By the time the Romans got here, in fact, they found a thriving ley Glacier, where Ötzi was found in 1991. The man from the glacier lived has been completely restored in 1990, evokes the experience of miners the gates and several fortified towers: it encircles the picturesque narrow Gardena craftsmen are members of the Unika Association, which has a wine culture. The Gewürztraminer, Lagrein and Vernatsch grape varieties 5,300 years ago, making him the oldest oldest moist mummy ever found. living under extreme conditions. streets, secret nooks, townhouses, and charming arcaded walkways. gallery space in Ortisei/St. Ulrich. In order to join, one must produce are native to South Tyrol: they came into being right here. In South Tyrol, We now know that, at the time of his death, he was being pursued into » Copper was mined in the Predoi/ Mine in ancient times. Today, pieces that are highly individual – even unique. wines grow at elevations between 200 to 1,000 metres. Their elegance the familiar high mountains and was murdered. Researchers, journalists, one can clatter along through narrow tunnels in the open mine train Points of Interest » The Südtiroler Werkstätten (lit: South Tyrolean Workshops) is an umbrella and power make them shine. artists and mystics have all shaped our image of Ötzi. The Iceman repre- right into the heart of the mine – protected with a helmet and a rain- » One of the best ways to experience the city, whether unaccompanied or organisation for 36 craftsmen’s associations that have decided to join forces. sents a permanent challenge for scientists and is expected to provide coat, of course. Towards the valley, the Kornkasten Museum in Cadipie- on an organised tour, is to circle the city along its well-preserved wall. Its shop, in Bolzano’s portici/Lauben arcades, is well worth a visit. Points of Interest new stimuli for research in the areas of anthropology, genetics and medicine. tra/Steinhaus recounts the history of ore mining through multimedia » A wall likewise encircles the Church of San Vito/St. Veit, located on the » A simple walk through Caldaro/Kaltern provides a glimpse into wine eyewitness accounts. nearby hill called Tartscher Bühel. The entire construction forms a Association of South Tyrolean Music Bands history – and into the histories of farms, squares, and names. The wine. Points of Interest » Dressed in White: a guided tour that leads you from the grounds of the prominent part of Val Venosta’s rich Romanesque heritage. phone: +39 0471 976 387 · www.vsm-bozen.it kaltern initiative, one of the projects run by the village community, of- » The mummy and the objects found with him – an axe, bearskin cap, Lasa marble works to Lasa’s outstanding sacred rock art. In the Lasa » Churburg Castle, known in Italian as Castel Coira and located across fers not only information about the local wines but also a first-hand ex- clothing, bow and arrows – are on display at the South Tyrol Museum of Valley, experienced hikers can take the complex route travelled by the Unika Gallery, Ortisei/St. Ulrich, Gardena/Gröden Valley the valley from Glorenza, houses the world’s largest privately owned perience of them. Archeology. The latest findings from ongoing genetic research are pre- marble itself: it leads from the quarry to the factory. phone: +39 339 17 92 227 · www.unika.org armoury. Here, all of the fifty complete suits of armour owned by the » The South Tyrolean Wine Road is ideal for epicures – and for anyone sented in an easy-to-understand yet in-depth way. Südtiroler Werkstätten, Bolzano/Bozen lord of the castle are on display. Ulrich IX must have been a giant: his who just enjoys wine. Picturesque vineyards, a very idyllic cultivated » Adrie and Alfons Kennis from the Netherlands have provided the muse- South Tyrol’s Mining Museums phone: +39 0471 978 590 · www.werkstaetten.it suit of armour is 2.10 metres in height and weighs 45 kilos – made to landscape, accompany you all the way from Nalles/ through Bolzano um with a naturalistic reconstruction of the Iceman, following scientific > World of Mining at Ridanna-Monteneve/Ridnaun-Schneeberg measure for the Giant of Matsch. and into the south. Three leisure bike routes offer many opportunities models: this is how Ötzi actually looked – or comes very close, at least. phone: +39 0472 656 364 · www.bergbaumuseum.it to stop off at various wineries and castles. » Ötzi’s lifestyle and the age in which he lived are brought to life at the Ar- > Predoi/Prettau Show Mine Circuit of town: Glorenza Tourist Association » Almost anywhere you can buy wine, you can also taste wine. Cellars, cheoParc, located in the Senales/Schnalstal Valley near Merano/Meran. phone: +39 0474 654 523 · www.bergbaumuseum.it phone: +39 0473 831 097 · www.altavenosta-vacanze.it · Duration: 2 hours private vineyards and wine shops are all great places to take a break > Kornkasten Mining Museum in Cadipietra/Steinhaus Tartscher Bühel: Upper Venosta Valley Tourist Association, Malles/ and try some wines. South Tyrol Museum of Archeology, Bolzano phone: +39 0474 651 043 · www.bergbaumuseum.it phone: +39 0473 831 190 · www.altavenosta-vacanze.it phone: +39 0471 320 100 · www.iceman.it Duration: varies according to mine Duration: 1 hour The wein.kaltern Initiative, Caldaro/Kaltern Duration: 2 hours Lasa/Laas guided marble tour Romanesque Val Venosta: www.stiegenzumhimmel.it phone: +39 0471 965 410 · www.wein.kaltern.com Senales Valley ArcheoParc, Val Senales phone: +39 347 40 95 404· www.marmorplus.it Churburg Castle, Sluderno/Schluderns Wine & Bike on the South Tyrolean Wine Road phone: +39 0473 676 020 · www.archeoparc.it Duration Lasa marble tour: 2 hours phone: +39 0473 615 241 · www.castelcoira.com · Duration: 1 hour phone: +39 0471 860 659 · www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it/bike Duration: 2 hours Retracing the marble transportation route: 6 hours

In South Tyrol, tradition moves with the times