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South Central Bolivia & the Chaco

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South Central Bolivia & the Chaco ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd South Central Bolivia & the Chaco Why Go? Tarija ..............................221 Famed for its dances, wines and an almost Mediterranean San Jacinto Reservoir ...230 character, the isolated department of Tarija is a Bolivia that El Valle de la not many travelers know. Concepción ...................230 The culture here gravitates towards neighboring Argentina Padcaya & Chaguaya ....232 and dreams of being closer to faraway Andalucía. The refer- Reserva Biológica ences to the region’s resemblance to the south of Spain were Cordillera de Sama .......232 started by Tarija’s founder, Luis de Fuentes, who was seem- Reserva Nacional de ingly anxious to lend a bit of home to a foreign land. He thus Flora y Fauna Tariquía ...233 named the river flowing past the city of Tarija the Guadalqui- Yacuiba ..........................234 vir (after Andalucía’s biggest river), and left the chapacos – as tarijeños (Tarija locals) are otherwise known – with a lilting Villamontes ...................234 dialect of European Spanish. Parque Nacional y Área Tarija’s far eastern regions are full of petroleum-rich Natural de Manejo scrublands, backed by stark highlands and the red earth of Integrado Aguaragüe ....236 the Gran Chaco. This is where you’ll find Bolivia’s hottest Camiri ...........................236 town, Villamontes, and a series of savage, impenetrable re- serves where wildlife abounds and few people dare to tread. Best Places to Eat » Pizza Pazza (p 227 ) When to Go » Taberna Gattopardo (p 227 ) Tarija » La Floresta (p 228 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 8/200 » Churrasquería El Rodeo 30/86 (p 228 ) 6/150 20/68 4/100 Best Places to 10/50 2/50 Stay 0/32 » -10/14 0 Resort Hotel Los Parrales J FDNOSAJJMAM (p 226 ) » Hostal del Sol (p 227 ) Late Mar Rosil- Aug The coolest Sep Honor the » Victoria Plaza Hotel (p227 ) las goes cow time of year to lepers in Tarija’s crazy during the visit blistering colorful Fiesta » Hotel El Rancho Olivo (p235 ) Fiesta de Leche y Villamontes is de San Roque, on » Residencial Gran Chaco Queso. during the fishing the first Sunday (p 235 ) festival. in September. 16-south-central-bol-bol8.indd 220 20/02/2013 2:23:34 PM 221 History envy of the Paraguayans on the other side Prior to the 1932–35 Chaco War, Bolivia had of the border. long claimed rights to the Chaco, an inhos- pitable region beneath which rich oil fields Climate were mooted to lie. The disputed area of This is the area of Bolivia where you most about 240,680 sq km stretched northeast of feel the country’s proximity to the equator and its distance from the sea. Tarija’s Medi- the Paraguay and Pilcomayo Rivers in Para- SOUTH CENTRAL BOLIVIA & THE CHACO guay, and included the 168,765 sq km chunk terranean climate quickly disappears as of Argentina north of the Río Bermejo. With soon as you head downhill, where it is re- political turmoil in Paraguay causing a dis- placed by scorching aridity and a merciless traction and economic hardship in Bolivia sun. The dry season in the region lasts from providing a stimulus, the Bolivians saw their April to November. opportunity and began to slowly advance National Parks & Reserves into Paraguayan territory. Remote, wild and off the beaten track, South After losing the War of the Pacific in 1884, Central Bolivia’s parks and reserves are per- Bolivia was desperate to have the Chaco as fect for hardcore adventure seekers. Infra- an outlet to the Atlantic via the Río Para- structure is almost nonexistent, but a visit guay. Hoping that physical possession would to any of the reserves will make a lasting be interpreted as official sovereignty, the impression. Those covered in this chapter Bolivian army set up a fort at Piquirenda include the Reserva Biológica Cordillera de on the Río Pilcomayo and then refused to Sama, Reserva Nacional de Flora y Fauna relinquish rights to Fuerte Vanguardia, its Tariquía, Parque Nacional y Área Natural only port on the Paraguay river (and not de Manejo Integrado Aguaragüe and the in Bolivian territory). In 1928 Paraguay re- Reserva Privada de Patrimonio Natural de SOUTH CENTRAL BOLIVIA CENTRAL SOUTH TARIJA sponded by sending its army to seize the Corbalán. fort. Although things got heated, both sides maintained a conciliatory attitude, hoping 8 Getting There & Around that a peaceful solution might be possible. Most people visit Bolivia’s far south on the Things, however, didn’t go as planned. way to or from somewhere else. Overland con- During settlement talks in Washington and nections from Argentina, Paraguay and other under orders from Bolivian President Daniel regions within Bolivia involve long bus rides. Salamanca, the Bolivian army tried to seize Tarija has the biggest airport in the area and land without authorization, triggering full- scheduled fl ights to La Paz, Sucre and other scale warfare. Bolivia was widely seen as the major towns go several times a week. aggressor in diplomatic circles and its case Public transportation runs frequently between generated little support. towns, but you’ll need a 4WD to get almost any- where else. Few roads are paved so prepare your- As the war progressed the Bolivians were self for hauls that take longer than they should. driven back beyond their existing borders, though they continued to fight, with their most successful battle in the town of Villa- montes in 1934. The hot, dry climate made SOUTH CENTRAL access to fresh water a decisive factor in the BOLIVIA war, with capturing and keeping access to wells a key strategy. Conditions were miser- able, soldiers were ill-equipped and disease Tarija was rife. As a result, casualties on both sides % 4 / POP 153,500 / ELEV 1905M were heavy. Tarija’s biggest drawcard is the vineyards Though no decisive victory was reached on its doorstep, and the city makes a great in the war, both nations had grown weary base for visiting the surrounding wineries of fighting and peace negotiations held in El Valle de la Concepción (p 230 ), home four years later awarded most of the dis- to the world´s highest wines and the throat- puted territory to Paraguay. To date, no oil tingling singani (distilled grape spirit). has ever been found in the Chaco, though There’s not much else to do in Tarija, but prospectors are still searching and ironi- it has some interesting colonial architec- cally the smaller area of Chaco awarded to ture and grows on those who stay a while the Bolivians harbors gas reserves that have to enjoy the pleasantly mild climate and boosted the Bolivian economy and are the take in the chilled atmosphere; the little 116-south-central-bol-bol8.indd6-south-central-bol-bol8.indd 222121 220/02/20130/02/2013 22:23:40:23:40 PPMM.
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