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2. Description > 2.a Description of property > 2.a.7 Cultural landscapes 167 D g o r m e n l i b e d n s a c e g h z n g e n r i e t Cultural landscapes along the and e n H e y a V a l l U l b u l Bernina line a l A n t r e I C n n e Landscapes and natural monuments r Schweizerischer Nationalpark und Randgebiete s A n l of national importance b o u h l c a O S b V a Parc Ela l e l a r l h e V y n a i / l d b a s s g t n m E e a i r h n e c p

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Sources: Basic map: PK 200’000 swisstopo, Wabern Geo-data: Amt für Raumentwicklung Graubünden i n a ( I ) Thematic data: RIP 2000 a l t e l l V Tirano Design: Süsskind, SGD, Reproduced by permission of swisstopo (BM062220) 168 Candidature UNESCO World Heritage | Rhaetian Railway in the Albula/Bernina Cultural Landscape | www.rhb-unesco.ch

2.a.7 Cultural landscapes along the Albula and Bernina line

The cultural landscapes along the Albula / line differ considerably both in appearance and in the way they are used. If exploitation in the Heinzenberg / region is moderate to intensive, the Albula valley is characterised rather by utilisation that is close-to- nature and principally agrarian. In the Upper , cultural landscapes largely determined by alternate with virtually intact natural environments, whereas Val and the Veltlin Valley, with its southern ambience, juxtapose the greatest contrasts within a very small area. On its way from Thusis to Tirano, the railway runs through several altitude levels as well as differing climatic and tectonic-geological zones; what is more, it passes through three different cultural areas that are refl ected in completely disparate building styles. The railway installations have had a strong impact on the landscapes in the regions traversed and have given important impulses to settlement and economic development. Some structures built for the railway have in fact become “landmarks” or even “trademarks” for that particular region.

A cultural landscape is a natural landscape that landmark for the whole Domleschg/Heinzen- has been changed by man. Its development is berg valley community. The mountain is par- determined by natural conditions such as topog- ticularly impressive in spring and early summer raphy, climate, geology, soil, water resources when - still in purest winter white – it stands out and vegetation and by the type of settlement against the lush green meadows and the blos- pattern and exploitation of the land as well as som of the fruit trees down in the valley. essential infrastructure systems such as traffi c Thusis, an old market town, is situated slightly routes and power lines. There are several differ- higher, above the upper reaches of the . ent cultural landscapes along the Albula/Berni- The line forks behind Thusis: the once so im- na railway line. These can be named after the portant north – south transit route continues various valley communities: in the through the gorge and on across the Domleschg/Heinzenberg, Albula, Upper Enga- Splügen or . Towards the din and Poschiavo valleys, in the Veltlin. east, through the Schin gorge, the track climbs The cultural landscapes cannot be considered to the before descending into the apart from their surrounding natural environ- Engadin. The way through the sinister Viama- ments, which are either intact or hardly touched. la, a deep gorge cut by the (Upper These “backdrops” are extremely important for Rhine) that pierces the almost insurmountable the overall perception of the cultural landscape; rock barrier behind Thusis is still impressive they are the backgrounds on the postcards and today; it is hardly surprising that the uncanny are frequently a landmark for the entire region. mystery of the Viamala is sung in numerous legends and stories. Domleschg/Heinzenberg The cross section of the Domleschg and Hein- High above Thusis, the starting point for the zenberg is an asymmetric transverse valley. Albula Railway, is Piz Beverin – effectively the The form of the flanks of the valley is defined

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Heinzenberg/Domleschg > Monu- mental secular buildings, like Orten- stein castle, are a striking feature of the Domleschg cultural landscape. On the right, the gently sloping Heinzen- berg with the snow covered Piz Bev- erin in the background. M. Kunfermann

Sils i.D. > The Holy Sepulchre church of St. Cassian in the Domleschg valley stands isolated on a hilltop. A. Badrutt

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by the tectonics of the underlying rock, or its from the Nollabach, that flows down from rather their formation by glaciers and ero- Piz Beverin carrying a great deal of fine ma- sion. The gradient of the rock (Graubünden terial. The fertile land created by this project slate), runs from west to east and the western is still farmed intensively today. New roads flank of the Heinzenberg is gently inclined in were built from the mid 19th century onwards the same direction whereas the eastern flank, and the Chur – Thusis railway line was opened the Domleschg, is characterised by the pre- in 1896. The beginning of the power station cipitous mountain slopes, ridges of rock and and road-building boom attracted trade to the the peaks of the Stäzerhorn chain. The particu- Thusis – Sils i.D. region. The siliceous lime- lar cultural landscape of the Domleschg – on stone quarried in Sils i.D. is used, among other a national comparison it is classed as “im- things, as ballast for the rail track, and is still portant” – is characterised by small lakes loaded on to the rail trucks at Sils i.D. station. and wetlands nestling between moraines, by The former Rhätische Werke below Thusis sta- meadows, hedgerows, fields and fruit trees tion is one of the oldest industrial buildings in as well as compact villages surmounted by Graubünden and once produced the carbide forts perched on striking outcrops of rock or for the station lighting. The power plants in the hills. The “Domleschg apples”, once highly Thusis – Sils i.D. area still make a major contri- prized at aristocratic tables throughout Eu- bution to the present day power supply for the rope, are a particularly interesting feature of Rhaetian Railway (cf. 2.b.7). High-voltage ca- farming history in the Domleschg. Today the bles from the Albula valley and from the south cultivation of this rare, old variety of apple is link up here before being led to the north and again being promoted. In the Domleschg, the the major agglomerations. From 1960 the settle- ­villages and the previously only temporarily ments expanded as a consequence of the rapid occupied Maiensässe (cf. 2.b.4), cling to the growth in population. The building of the A13 terraces like swallows’ nests. The sunny situ- motorway in the 1970s had an incisive impact ation and relative dryness made tillage possi- on the Heinzenberg/Domleschg cultural land- ble up to a high altitude; the old field terraces scape. It follows the canalised Rhine; the en- are still clearly visible. Cereals are no longer gineers opted for a tunnel to solve the Viamala cultivated in the Domleschg today. problem. The cultural landscape on the Heinzenberg is very different to that of the Domleschg. Here, it Albula Valley is the cultivation of feed crops that dominates. The Albula valley extends from the Schin gorge The landscape is characterised by meadows, to the Albula Pass. It can be subdivided into vari- ­forests, Maiensässe and . ous sections: the Schin gorge, the central and the At the beginning of the 19th century the val- inner Albula valley. The section as far as ley floor belonged to the meandering young – an inner alpine, longitudinal valley – continues Rhine, the Hinterrhein. A mid 19th century in the Landwasser valley, famous for its Zügen- land-improvement project made the valley floor schlucht and the world-renowned health resort suitable for farming: the river was straightened of Davos. After Filisur, the Albula valley chang- and the flatland covered with alluvial depos- es direction and starts to run south, to the Al-

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Schin gorge > Solis Viaduct on the > “Crap Furo” (Romansh for Albul line, behind it the dry meadows “rock full of holes”). and the terrace villages of Zorten, R. Zuber Lain and Muldain. Foto Geiger

Central Albula Valley > Sunny slopes and terraced hedge and bush land- scape. A. Badrutt

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bula Pass. The Albula valley is one of the most inated by the Muchetta, that towers above sparsely populated regions in Graubünden; Filisur, with its “textbook” scree slopes, simi- ­together with the Oberhalbstein valley it is part lar to those found in the Swiss National Park. of the “Parc Ela” nature park. The Rhaetian The Bergünerstöcke – Piz Mitgel and Corn da Railway with its particular structures and veg- Tinizong – rising above the forests are almost etation is an important element of the nature invisible from the valley floor. park. The forests (some are intact natural forests) dominate the shady slope, interrupted only by Schin gorge (Thusis to ) rocky outcrops and crags, such as Crap Furo, The Schin is a deep-cut gorge in geologically a greywacke pointing up out of the forest like very unstable layers of rock (Graubünden a finger. This Silvretta nappe sediment marks slate). Earlier, the road (“Old Schin”) led from the geographical centre of Graubünden. The Obervaz or into the Domleschg, tributary valleys emerging on the shady side along the rock on the right bank of the Albu- are steep and end in steps; the imposing wa- la river. In contrast, the railway line was laid terfall in the Schaftobel flows over one of on the left, steep and densely forested, side of these rockfalls. The streams carry large quan- the valley. Numerous engineering structures tities of alluvial detritus. were necessary to overcome the Schin sec- The sunny side breaks down into three steps. tion; the Solis viaduct is the most impressive of Farming is intensive on the valley floor. As the these (cf. 2.a.4). The northeast slope above the gravelly soil is very permeable, the fields have gorge is characterised by extensive dry mead- to be irrigated in dry periods; traces of old ir- ows, the former terraced fields that are still vis- rigation systems can still be found here and ible and the compact villages of Zorten, Lain there. Previously the slopes above the valley and Muldain. , a Walser village, lies floor were tilled; dry-stone walls supported on the rather shady slope opposite; the settle- the terraces and prevented the fertile soil be- ment breaks down into three separate groups ing washed down from the steep slopes. With of buildings at altitudes between 1,470 m and the exception of potatoes, arable farming was 1,870 m. The Walsers are a German-speaking abandoned after the Second World War and people who probably immigrated from Davos the old terraces gradually became overgrown or during the 15th century. with grass and bushes. The outcome was a hedgerow landscape that is quite unique in Central Albula Valley Graubünden. It extends from Mon and (Tiefencastel – Filisur) over Alvaschein, Brienz/Brinzauls, Surava, The central Albula valley is a dry valley with and Schmitten as far as Filisur. It is low precipitation and relatively mild tempera- particularly important as a refuge for biodiver- tures. It extends from Tiefencastel to Filisur; sity. The hedges and the extensive dry mead- its two flanks, on either side of the rather nar- ows are an eldorado for butterflies, birds and row valley floor, differ considerably as there other animals. Recently, a few terraces have is a pronounced sunny and shady side. The again been used for the organic cultivation of landscape of the central Albula valley is dom- old species of cereals (e.g. buckwheat).

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Albula line > The loop entering the Schmittentobel Bergün/Bravuogn > “Il Crap” a rock barrier (also and the Landwasser Valley. called the “Bergünerstein”) before Bergün/Bra- T. Keller vuogn is pierced by a tunnel; in contrast, the road runs along the rock face. T. Keller

Bergün/Bravuogn > The inner Albula Valley is mostly steep and narrow. View from Bergün/Bra- vuogn towards the Albula Pass. D. Enz

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The settlements include both nucleated and an important role in Filisur. The building of the ribbon-built villages. On the higher reaches of Albula/Landwasser power station (cf. 2.b.7) the sunny slope they are built on terraces, so with regulating reservoirs and command sta- only church steeples and isolated houses are tions in Bergün/Bravuogn, Filisur and Tiefen- visible from the railway. The church complex castel, had a significant impact on the further of Schmitten, which is built on a striking ro- economic development of Filisur and the en- che moutonnée, is particularly notable in this tire Albula valley after the Second World War. respect. The well-conserved village nucleus of Filisur The traffic junction of Tiefencastel, with its is a compact whole with a large number of En- once-fortified church hill, today dominated by gadin-type houses. The structural transforma- a baroque church, derives most of its income tion of agriculture led to the setting up of new from the tourists who stay at the two large ho- farming units beyond the edge of the village; tels and eat at the restaurants. the cramped conditions inside the village pre- Since the 19th century, Surava has been con- vented any rational farming – the same applies sidered industrial: the match factory, rusk for all the villages throughout the Albula val- factory, mill, sawmill, pottery, dyeing works ley (cf. 4.a.2). and previously a chalk works all document an The has made an indel- earlier industrial era. Trade plays a major role ible impact on the area. This technical struc- in the economic life of Surava today as well; ture blends harmoniously but self-confidently Misapor, a cellular glass ballast, has been pro- with the landscape and has become the “trade- duced here since the 1980s and is even export- mark” for the Rhaetian Railway. ed abroad. The village comprises a western part of farming aspect with houses in the En- Inner Albula Valley (Filisur – Preda) gadin style (cf. 2.a.6) and the more commer- The inner Albula Valley is steep and narrow; cial quarter in the east. forests, and the courses of rock slides and ava- Alvaneu Bad developed into a well-known spa lanches define the landscape. Protection from resort in the mid 19th century thanks to its the forces of nature like rockfalls and ava- iron and sulphurous spring; the large spa hotel lanches was essential where the railway line built at that time was not used after the Sec- runs across open terrain. The railway pierces ond World War, gradually fell into ruin and the natural rock barrier of the “Bergüner- was eventually demolished. Today it has been stein” before Bergün/Bravuogn with a tunnel; replaced by a new spa building with its own the road, in contrast, runs along the rock face. golf course. In view of the topographic conditions in this Filisur has become an important traffic hub part of the valley, agriculture was only fea- since the railway was built. It is here that sible in the hollow of Bergün/Bravuogn and the line through the wild Zügen gorge, also around the villages of Latsch and Stugl/Stuls built and operated by the Rhaetian Railway, that lie on natural terraces and in the environs branches off from the Albula line. Besides of Preda. The railway uses the Bergün/Bra- farming, running hotels and catering for vuogn basin to overcome a difference in al- guests, trade and crafts have always played titude of 100 m in two loops. Altogether, the

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Preda > The plain at Preda-Naz, previously only occupied by the Bergün farmers for a few months of the year as Maiensäss, became a per- manent settlement following the construction of the railway. B. Studer

Bever > The entrance to the Engadin. The broad, open, 1,700 – 1,800 m Upper Engadin landscape gives the impression of being sur- prisingly expansive. A. Badrutt

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railway layout, like the road, clearly defines flooding, the Flaz was recently directed into a the cultural landscape in the narrow section new bed using the latest river-correction and of the valley from Bergün/Bravuogn to Preda. ecological know-how (cf. 4.a.2). The Berni- The Dolomite massif of Piz Ela closes the ho- na massif rises to heights of some 4,000 m, rizon to the west majestically. standing out clearly from the surrounding Bergün/Bravuogn with its touch of the En- peaks that barely attain 3,400 m. The Berni- gadin is well conserved. Since the beginning na massif is in fact the highest in the eastern of traffic across the pass, tourism has been Alps. The river , which flows through the the most important source of income in the Engadin and gave the valley its name, rises village. After the railway was constructed, on the Lunghin Pass and joins the at several hotels were built, including the re- Passau before flowing into the Black Sea. The markable Hotel Kurhaus which tapped the orientation of the axis of the valley is respon- mineral springs. Today this spa hotel has sible for the great contrast between the north- been restored to its former glory. The plain at ern, sunny and the southern, shady flank. The Preda-Naz, previously only occupied by the shady side is largely covered with larch and Bergün farmers for a few months of the year Swiss stonepine forests; the tree line is at an as Maiensäss (cf. 2.b.4), became a permanent altitude of 2,300 m! On the plain and on the settlement following the construction of the sunny side, in contrast, airy larch forests pre- railway. dominate. A large proportion of the settle- ments and the traffic routes are on the sunny Upper Engadin side of the valley. The Upper Engadin is entered through Val Unlike today, when crops are only grown for Bever, a landscape of pastures and larches, fodder, until the 16th century agriculture in with steep screes and courses gouged out by the valley was at subsistence level – an ex- avalanches. In comparison to the ruggedness traordinary fact considering the altitude of the and narrowness of the inner Albula valley, the farms. The farmers even grew bread cereals countryside here is broad and gentle. The Up- on their own land; “Chantarella”, the name of per Engadin is part of a tectonically defined an area above St. Moritz, at 2,000 m, means inner alpine, longitudinal valley stretching “little field” indicating that the land was once from Maloja to Martina. The trough shape tilled. The floor of the valley was unsuitable is due to glacial erosion. The Upper Engadin for arable farming due to the danger of frost separates the east alpine Bernina nappe in in the pockets of cold air; instead the farmers the south from the Julier and Err nappe in the had recourse to the lower parts of the slopes. north. The broad, open, 1,700 – 1,800 m land- The old field terraces are still visible above scape gives the impression of being surpris- the villages of Celerina, and Pon- ingly expansive. Unusual for a high altitude tresina. With few exceptions, agriculture in valley is the broad flatland called the “Cam- the Engadin was organised at only two levels; pagna” around Samedan; it was built up by a Maiensäss level with the associated buildings the Flaz, flowing from the Bernina valley, and is completely lacking here, similarly there are the river Inn. To counter the danger of serious no outbuildings for livestock, so typical of other

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Upper Engadin > A broad, high Alpine U-shaped valley, left St. Moritz, right, the Samedan “Campagna” plain in the background. A. Badrutt

Celerina > The old terraces, still clearly St. Moritz > The pioneer tourist resort visible on the slope high above the of St. Moritz is today one of the best village (1,800 m) prove that arable known tourist destinations world- farming was commonplace here in wide. earlier years. A. Badrutt A. Badrutt

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valleys in the Graubünden (cf. 2.b.4). The coun- castles in the landscape, giving it a very spe- tryside beyond the villages is open, with no cial character. Originally the guests spent the buildings. The historic nucleate villages are summer months in the Engadin, sport-orient- characterised by the typical Engadin houses; ed winter tourism started to develop gradually sturdy, massively built houses with living from the 1880s onwards. This also gave the quarters, stables and a utility zone all under impetus for the construction of the first cable one roof (cf. 2.a.6). cars; the cable car, built in The lakeland area with the Sils i.E., Silvapla- 1907, was the first and famous for the breath- na and Champfèr lakes, the towering peaks taking view of the Upper Engadin lakeland. to the north and south and the eternal snows The second cable car in the Upper Engadin of the mountain massif, the glaciers creep- was built in 1913; it ran from St. Moritz-Dorf ing towards the valleys and above all the vi- to Chantarella. The cable car was designed brant colours of the larch forests in autumn primarily to provide access to the Chantarella make the Upper Engadin one of the most hotel complex built at the same time. Early unique regions in Switzerland. The air and the highlights of winter tourism were the 1928 light in the Upper Engadin are also quite ex- and 1948 Winter Olympic games. In prepara- traordinary – due to the high altitude. Since tion for the 1928 Olympiad, the Chantarella the beginnings of tourism, all this has at- funicular railway was extended to Corviglia tracted visitors from all over the world and in 1927 to transport the winter sports enthu- has inspired poets, writers and painters like siasts. A real boom in cable cars and building ­Giovanni Segantini, Rainer Maria Rilke and in general broke out after the Second World Friedrich Nietzsche. War. Skiing became a popular sport and mass The rapid spread of tourism in the Upper En- tourism arrived in the Engadin. The new ca- gadin during the second half of the 19th cen- ble railways – the and the Cor- tury was the impetus for the construction of vatsch in 1956, with a view of the Bernina the Albula Railway (cf. 2.b.9 and 2.b.10). To- massif, the Lagalb in 1962 – together with the day tourism is all-important here. Most of ski tows, holiday homes, tourist infrastructure the people living in the valley live directly or and roads changed the face of the landscape indirectly from this industry. St. Moritz, the enormously. pioneer of tourism, is today one of the best- Samedan, as a railway and traffic hub with known mountain resorts worldwide; it has its own rail settlement, developed naturally a cosmopolitan, even urban ambience of its into the logistics centre of the Upper Engadin own. About 1800 the medicinal spring (fer- during the 20th century. A regional airfield, rous carbonated water) at St. Moritz-Bad schools, hospitals, retirement homes, com- (St. Moritz-Spa), which was already tapped in mercial buildings and utilities complexes are prehistoric times, started to attract visitors in the outward signs of a tourism-oriented cul- large numbers (cf. 2.b.1). A first, rather mod- tural landscape. est Kurhaus was built in 1832; later this gave The “hotel palaces” are also the dominant fea- way to much larger and more luxurious es- ture in , at the entrance to the Berni- tablishments: these Grand Hotels stand like na valley, and in the Val Roseg (cf. 2.a.6 and

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Bernina region > The Morteratsch gla- cier with Piz Palü and . Kur- und Verkehrsverein St.Moritz

Bernina Pass > The reser- voir is coloured white by the glacier milk from the Cambrena glacier, the blue-black Lago Nero, behind it, is fed by spring water. A. Badrutt

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2.a.9). The countryside between Pontresina Lake’, which is fed solely by spring water, and the is bleak and alpine; rail- makes a sharp contrast. The climate at an alti- way, road, alp buildings and a high-voltage tude of some 2,260 m is merciless. cable are virtually the sole signs of civilisa- tion here. The valley in the Morteratsch re- Poschiavo Valley gion offers a breathtaking vista of the mighty From the eternal snows of the Bernina group, surrounded by Piz Palü, the Poschiavo valley drops, only about 25 km Piz Bernina and Piz Morteratsch: a unique as the crow flies, to the southern ambience of mountain panorama; however, the glacier has the Veltlin. Every possible vegetation step can shrunk considerably in recent years due to be found within a relatively small area, from global warming. There is a geologically in- the sparse growth and bleak stone-strewn teresting feature at the foot of Piz Alv, not crest of the pass over green pastures, lush far from the Lagalb and Diavolezza cable car meadows and dense larch forests to the tobac- valley stations: the red Alv-Brekzie from the co fields and chestnut, peach, fig, cabbage and Triassic period. This blend of crystalline and mulberry trees near the border. The flora and chalk rocks, found only in a very restricted ar- the great variety in types of agriculture reflect ea, is responsible for a variety of plants in Val the southern influence of the climate. Fain (Hay Valley) that is unique to Europe. With the exception of the serpentine (Pennine The plants here have been protected for many stone) that is quarried in the Selva district, the years (plant reserve). underlying rock comprises east alpine nappes. The railway approaches the alpine zone on the The Sassalbo in the eastern mountain range, Bernina Pass. The pass is a textbook exam- which is formed of several different kinds ple of a glaciated transfluence area, marked of marble, is particularly striking. The val- by Piz Cambrena with its glacial tongue, ley follows the tectonically defined shifts be- stream deltas and screes, roches moutonées, tween the upper and lower east alpine nappes. moraines and lakes. Lago Bianco, originally It is drained by the Poschiavo river, which two small lakes with broad silted zones, was joins the in the Veltlin, which in turn dammed in conjunction with the construction flows into the and on to the Adriatic / Med- of the Kraftwerke AG (today Rätia En- iterranean. Two large tributary valleys branch ergie) power station at the beginning of the off from : the Val di Camp from 20th century. Since then, it has formed the Sfazu, and the Val dal Saent from Campascio. upper basin reservoir of the generating plant, The Val di Camp is renowned for its beautiful which is one of the oldest power stations in lakes that were originally formed by a massive Switzerland and closely linked to the estab- rockfall (landscape of national importance). lishment of the Bernina Railway (cf. 2.b.7). The high-altitude hamlet of Cavaione in Val The storage reservoir is harmoniously embed- dal Saent is only partly inhabited today. The ded in the landscape; the dam to the north is Val dal Saent did not definitively become part hardly noticeable. Lago Bianco gets its white of Switzerland until 1875; for over a hundred colour from the “glacier milk” coming from years it was “no man’s land” belonging nei- the Cambrena glacier. Lago Nero, the ‘Black ther to Switzerland nor Italy. The inhabitants

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Alp Grüm > A natural dome, moulded and polished by the glacier. In its shade the Lago di Palü. A. Badrutt

Alp Grüm > Spectacular view of the Poschiavo > The bowl of the valley, Palü glacier. In the foreground the with is characterised Lago di Palü. by various alluvial fans, in part over- T. Keller grown with hedges, intensively used meadows with the first potato fields and settlements some of which have an urban air. A. Badrutt

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made the most of this situation by assuring the Brusio) are the homesteads of the “field-alp Swiss authorities that they were Italian, and farms”, the typical form in dry valleys. Farm- the Italian authorities that they were Swiss. ing is varied, with fields separated from one The first stage of the Poschiavo valley stretch- another by supporting walls and hedges. The es from the Bernina Pass to Alp Grüm. irrigated meadows can be mown up to four Whereas the road makes its way through Val times a year. At the next valley stage (from Agoné, the railway follows the route through to San Carlo), farming is less var- the Cavaglia taken by the old mule track years ied. The “meadow-alp farms” are found here. ago (cf. 2.b.3). Alp Grüm, rounded by glacial Conditions are similar on the terraces at Vi- erosion, is a favourite with tourists thanks to ano and Cavaione. The Maiensässe are built the fantastic view into the Poschiavo valley on natural flat patches in forest clearings at with Piz Palü and its glacier. From Alp Grum an altitude of 1,100 to 1,600 m. The associ- the valley drops down to the Cavaglia plain ated settlements come in all forms from scat- with the hamlet of the same name at 1,700 m, tered homesteads to small villages. The alpine originally only inhabited for a few months of pastures are very extensive, but the terrain the year. The beautifully formed moulins are is frequently very steep. The local livestock an interesting feature. They are some 500 m was insufficient for comprehensive grazing so to the south of Cavaglia rail station, where the Poschiavo farmers fetched cattle from the the Cavaglia river cuts through a smoothly Veltlin and sheep from to spend the polished rock barrier. The next large step is summer on the alps. formed by the basin and Lago di Poschiavo Since earliest times the restricted opportu- (1,000 m). This is characterised by various al- nities for making a living in Poschiavo have luvial fans, some overgrown with hedges, in- obliged many of its people to emigrate. Be- tensively used pastures and the first potato sides military emigration, economic emi- fields and settlements, some of which already gration was also widespread; the Poschiavo have an urban air. The lake was dammed up by confectioners, in particular, who travelled to a massive rock fall in the Motta / Miralago ar- all the countries of Europe and often made ea. The fourth step descends through the ever- considerable fortunes abroad, are well known. narrowing valley to Campocologno (700 m). When they came home again they often in- The railway has made a strong impact on vested their money in real estate. One par- the Poschiavo cultural landscape; among the ticularly impressive example of ‘returning striking structures are the loops winding up emigrant’ architecture is the row of “palazzi” from San Carlo to Alp Grüm, perfectly embed- along the southern edge of the Poschiavo Bor- ded in the countryside, and the circular viaduct go with its urban air (cf. 2.b.4). at Brusio. Agriculture was long the princi- Besides employment in the power station, to- pal source of income in the valley. The tradi- day trades and crafts, passing traffic and the tional division of the utilised zones into valley, rapidly developing tourist trade offer earning Maiensäss and alp, so typical in Graubünden, opportunities. The beginnings of tourism in Po- applies here as well (cf. 2.b.4). At the lowest schiavo go back to the mid 19th century, when valley level (from Campocologno to above a spa hotel was built on the lake at that

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Poschiavo Valley > Thanks to its mild climate, the valley floor of the lower Poschiavo Valley is densely populated and the land is farmed intensively. The slopes are covered with deciduous trees. A. Badrutt

Lago di Poschiavo > The lake was dammed by a Campascio > Carefully cultivated terraced massive rockfall and is used to generate hydro- landscape below the Campascio halt. electric power. A. Badrutt A. Badrutt

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made use of the sulphur springs; the bathing ing, while farming has largely become a part- facilities were luxurious by the standards of time occupation. Vine and fruit growing (18% the day. After a period of stagnation, the spa and 10% respectively) are highly specialised in hotel was sold to Kraftwerke Brusio AG (now the Veltlin. The varieties of apples grown are Rätia Energie AG). Today it is once again run “Delicious”, “Stark” and “Golden Apples”. Key as a hotel. There are various sizable business- focus is on the production of quality wines bear- es in Brusio specialising in the vegetable and ing the D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. labels (Denomina- wine trades. zione di Origine Controllata and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita respectively). Veltlin The principal varieties are “Rosso di ”, The climate in the Veltlin is varied: the air cur- “Valtellina Superiore”, “Sassella” “Grumello” rents from Lake Como bank up against the “Inferno”, “Vagella”, “Maroggia” and “Sforzato”. mountains causing frequent rainfall; the region The valley runs from west to east: the tectonic becomes progressively drier to the east. There is formation is referred as the “linea insubrica”. even a sharp contrast in conditions between the Alpine folding along this plane has created an two sides of the valley. Thanks to almost con- unstable zone which was subjected to further tinuous exposure to the sun, temperatures on pressure by pronounced glacial activity dur- the south flank are relatively high, even in win- ing the Ice Age. Consequently, the valley devel- ter, and snow does not accumulate as it does on oped a typical open U-shape, although its floor the north flank. This encourages agriculture is concealed by a thick sedimentary deposit. and in particular vine growing up to a relative- During the Quaternary period, the entire val- ly high altitude. The north side of the valley is ley was remoulded by glacial advances with the colder, has fewer buildings and is characterised consequent deposit of moraines indicating the by extensive forests and pastures. Precipitation course of the old glaciers. The tributary streams is unevenly distributed as the mountains to the formed alluvial fans and cones on the flanks of south fend off the humid air currents from the the valleys. plain. The wind blows from two directions: the south wind coming from Lake Como and the “Föhn” from the north. The region’s terrain and climate determined its settlement patterns. The centres of settlement were localised in the lower and central Veltlin valley. The villages are strung out on the south- ern flank, at an altitude of 500 to 800 m in a west-east direction, surrounded by vineyards. The farms below these preferred locations are mostly devoted to stock farming. The situation of the villages on the northern flank is quite differ- ent to those on the southern flank: stock farming predominates here and there is little vine grow-

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