Engadin ENGLISH EDITION MAGAZINE N MAGIC o . 3

W I N T E R –––––– 2 0 / 2 1 ENGLISH 2 3

Engadin Winter — 20/21 Dear guests,

Ideally we would like to magic you straight over to our valley,

Germany but unfortunately we are not able to do that just yet. Instead, you can come to us along a World Heritage railway line of fairy-tale charm, Austria or travel over the bewitching snow-covered mountains with your own SWITZERLAND France GRAUBÜNDEN sleigh. We’re waiting for you: with sparkling powder snow, all kinds of gastronomic wizardry and the purest ice in the world. ENGADIN Italy We wish you happy reading and a good journey – and we look forward to welcoming you here soon!

The people of the Engadin Lej da Segl Lej m m m m m m Cover photograph by Filip Zuan Filip by photograph Cover m m m m Piz Bernina, 4,049 Bernina, Piz Piz Palü, 3,905 Palü, Piz Piz Scerscen, 3,971 Scerscen, Piz 3,937 Roseg, Piz m Map: Rohweder Piz Cambrena, 3,604 Cambrena, Piz Piz Tremoggla, 3,441 Tremoggla, Piz Piz Fora, 3,363 Fora, Piz m m m Piz Lagalb, 2,959 Lagalb, Piz Diavolezza, Diavolezza, 2,978 m Piz Led, 3,088 Led, Piz Piz Corvatsch, 3,451 Corvatsch, Piz Diavolezza 3,433 Murtèl, Piz m Lago Bianco Lagalb

Piz Lavirun, 3,058 Lavirun, Piz Val Forno Italy Punta Casana, 3,007 Casana, Punta Val Fex Corvatsch Punta Saliente, 3,048 Saliente, Punta

Bernina Pass Surlej, 3,188 Piz Val Fedoz

Maloja Pass Val Roseg MALOJA

Swiss National Park Lej da Silvaplauna SILS SURLEJ ST. MORITZ BAD Lej da PONTRESINA Champfèr SILVAPLANA Lake St.Moritz CHAMPFÈR ST. MORITZ DORF Julier Pass Corviglia

➞ ZERNEZ LA PUNT CELERINA CINUOS-CHEL SAMEDAN CHAMUES-CH S-CHANF ZUOZ BEVER CHAPELLA MADULAIN

ENGADIN Magazin WINTER –––––– 19/20 North p. 18 06 INTRODUCTION

14 Müravglius A valley of winter marvels

18 SKI

20 Power of powder 22 The dream of endless winter The freerider Lucas Swieykowski spends all his life in one season 30 Skiing for all Fun on the pistes and adventure off-piste

34 CRAFT

36 A tool conquers the world 38 Special Fex Fire, steel and a touch of wizardry: the legendary blades from the Val Fex 48 Hand-crafted Unique artefacts of wood,

stone and glass p. 82

50 ICE

52 / all others: Filip Zuan Filip / all others: Song of the ice 54 Black magic A rare wonder of nature: experience black ice on skates

p. 50 62 Frozen valley Icy experiences

66 CULINARIA

68 Colourful art of the cocktail Spinas Gasthaus Culinaria: Photo / 70 Lemon balm & peppermint On the trail of the Hugo in the Val Bever 78 A valley to savour Gastronomic flights of fancy

82 CULTURA

84 Swiss pioneering spirit aims high 86 Floating in heaven Ingenious engineers

Zuoz Alpinum Lyceum Family: Photo trace a route to the skies / 96 Riding high Cable cars, funiculars and more

98 FAMILY

100 High school

Pedrett Andreas Moritz, 102 A magical spell on life’s journey Where young minds from all over the world gain wisdom 110 Family-friendly Adventures for all the family

114 PINBOARD

114 A gallery of ideas for magical winter holidays in the Engadin, with even more activities, restaurants, accommodation and cultural

p. 98 p. 66 p. 34 attractions

St. Dokumentationsbibliothek Cultura: Photo 138 Summer preview All about wood

Contents ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Contents 6 7 Photo: Keystone, mauritius images, clickalps images, mauritius Keystone, Photo: In the moonlight: the church of SanContents Gian in Celerina. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Contents 8 9

As if dusted with icing sugar: nature around Zuan Filip Photo: the cross-country ski trail near San Gian, ContentsCelerina. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Contents 10 11 Photo: Roberto Moiola, stock.adobe.com Moiola, Roberto Photo: A visit from Jack Frost: icicles adorn the walkway onContents Lake Sils. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Contents 12 13 Photo: Christian Brandstaetter Christian Photo: Zuan Filip Photo: Beacon for culture lovers: the Red Tower onContents the Julier Pass. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Contents 14 15

Legend of the Müravglius Morteratsch Glacier How the mighty glacier A valley of winter marvels acquired its name:

Capricornus

Long ago, two young people – Annetta, a prosperous farmer’s daughter, and Aratsch, a herdsman – fell in love on an alpine pasture. Scorpius Sagittarius Her parents forbade the union as long as Aratsch had no wealth, so he travelled abroad to seek his fortune as a soldier. Horse-drawn sleigh rides What could be more charming and romantic than a cosy ride in a horse-drawn sleigh through the snowy Engadin? Snugly wrapped in blankets, As Annetta waited for her lover Indus passengers explore the wide plateau of frozen lakes to come back, she suffered Ara or the idyllic side valleys, admiring the sparkling scenery as it glides gently by. The muffled thud of so much from loneliness and Grus the horses’ hooves on the snow, the animals’ soft uncertainty that she died snorting and the jangling of the harnesses are the of a broken heart. only sounds that break the stillness of the white When Aratsch returned and The fairy-tale Val Bever surroundings. Along certain routes, the horse- learned of Annetta’s death, Pavo In summer, the charming drawn sleighs offer an “omnibus” service, running he rode up to the pasture and Fairy-Tale Trail winds along the to a timetable; passengers may also book sleighs spurred on his horse to make idyllic Val Bever from Bever to for private rides, with a wide choice of itineraries. one last leap – into a ravine. Spinas; in winter, a delightful winter walk leads along the same i route through the snow-blanket- Mort ed forest. Observant visitors may An enchanting experience of winter: Aratsch! well spot animal tracks in the snow; no one, however, will miss Horse-drawn sleigh rides in the Engadin Find full information on routes and operators at Annetta’s spirit could not accept the giant sculptures along the engadin.ch/sleigh-rides that her lover had died. She trail, all created by local artists. haunted the meadows, where people could hear her cry “Mort Heavenly sight: Aratsch!” (“Aratsch is dead!”) conditions in the Spirits of the mountains Sparkling star-filled skies Engadin are ideal The new tenant drove away Anyone who lifts their eyes to the heavens on a clear night in the Engadin will be for star-gazing. A mythical creature and two iconic birds have given their names Annetta’s wailing ghost, only to bewitched by the sight. Because of the valley’s high altitude and its great distance from to two mountains, an alpine col and their associated ski areas. receive a curse in return. cities, the starry skies here are spectacular. Visitors interested in exploring the secrets The pasture became ever more The Corvatsch, whose summit culminates at 3,451 m, is named of the night sky and getting to know the constellations will enjoy the tours and talks desolate until it was eventually organised at the Samedan observatory by a welcoming local association, the “Engadin after the “great raven”; Corviglia means “Alpine chough”; and the swallowed up under a thick Friends of Astronomy”. Diavolezza, a col at 2,978 m, translates as “she-devil”. layer of ice: the Morteratsch engadiner-astrofreunde.ch Glacier.

Introduction ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Introduction 17

Advertising in Meteor showers On some nights there are so many shooting stars that you can barely the Engadin keep up making a wish December December January April for each one. Tell guests in the valley about your products and services 13 – 14 21 – 22 3 – 4 22 – 23 with an advertisement in the Engadin magazine. Top 5: winter bucket list Five things you simply Distribution have to experience in the Engadin, in the Engadin winter: Switzerland, Germany and Wrap up snugly and Scandinavia. ride a horse-drawn Float through the air sleigh into the Val Fex. Just like the great raven after page 15 which the Corvatsch is named, visitors can glide silently through Ski by the light the skies under a paraglider: of the full moon on Muottas Muragl: magical a chance to admire the glittering the Diavolezza. Samedan – Few views can be as breathtaking as landscape of frozen lakes and page 32 those from Muottas Muragl, accessible to all by snow-capped peaks from a funicular: you feel as if the whole valley lies at your new perspective, held aloft Skate on a feet. In the evening, when the lights of the villages by the fresh and bracing winter frozen lake. way below echo the sparkling stars high above, a mountain air. page 54 trip up the mountain promises an especially malojawind.ch magical experience. On full-moon nights, visitors Drink the original can join a guided snowshoe walk, followed by a Hugo cocktail at glass of wine and some local specialities in the the Gasthaus Spinas. panoramic restaurant: a taste of heaven on earth. page 70 engadin.ch/muottas-muragl

Ride the historical i Muottas Muragl Winter walking on Muottas Muragl funicular. On one of the three winter walking paths or along page 86 The magazine is aimed Interesting stories the snowshoe trail, suitable also for novices. at people with style, and information from engadin.ch/muottas-muragl/winter-idyll curiosity and a sense of the Engadin summer Full of Christmas charm adventure. and winter, twice a year. Hot mulled wine, gingerbread, Advent treats and all kinds A place of special energy of gift ideas, large and small: Certain places seem to radiate a special energy: the Engadin is the Christmas markets that take place on December weekends certainly one of them. The region clearly has a unique effect on people in different villages throughout who visit: witness the long list of artists, writers and philosophers Contact: Gammeter Media AG, Via Surpunt 54, 7500 St. Moritz the valley are full of seasonal who have found inspiration in these magnificent landscapes. charm, and are guaranteed

[email protected], T. 081 837 90 00 Foto Stock Alamy Prisma, Xmas: Photo to delight visitors of all ages.

Introduction Ski

Powder snow skiing is not fun. It’s life, fully lived – life lived in a blaze of reality.

DOLORES LA CHAPELLE (1926–2007) US-AMERICAN SKI MOUNTAINEER Photo: Silvano Zeiter Silvano Photo:

ENGADIN Magazine WINTER 20 21

remarkable aspect of these little marvels of nature Power is the fact that every single one is unique: scientists believe there have never been two snowflakes that of powder looked exactly alike.

Cold variety: Every blanket of snow may appear the same at first sight, but closer observation White magic: So many of us look forward to the soon ­reveals that the white mass can take on a great first snow of winter with eager anticipation! And then, variety of textures. In the case of loose, fresh one morning, we wake up and look out of the win- snow, for ­example, the individual snow crystals can dow to find that a white blanket has covered the land- still be recognised clearly. If a strong wind now scape overnight: a sight to delight every child, and blows, the uppermost layer of snow is compacted to plenty of adults, too. The moment is magical – and has produce a hard crust, known locally as Windharsch. the power to conjure a smile on faces of all ages, time Firn, ­meanwhile, is snow that has compressed and again. stea­dily through a process of repeated partial melting and ­refreezing. Firn occurs more frequently as Sinking in snow: Abundant snow is no rarity in the tem­peratures climb steadily and spring approaches, Engadin winter. The actual snow record dates back slowly but ­surely. It is the joy of skiing on well-­ 70 years, however. The night of 13/14 February 1951 prepared Firn snow, combined with the sunshine saw the greatest snow depth in the Engadin since and ­pleasant ­temperatures, that makes spring skiing measurements began. On that night, the snow at the especially popular among many winter sports top of the Maloja Pass reached a height of no less enthusiasts. than 2.99 metres above ground level! Ideal conditions: If ambient temperatures stay Symmetrical but unique: Anyone who has the ­constantly below zero, as is fortunately almost always opportunity to examine a freshly fallen snowflake the case in the Engadin winter, the snow remains ­under a magnifying glass will be enchanted by airy and light and lives up to its name of powder snow. its delicate beauty. The six points of a snowflake are This variety may not be so suitable for a snowball invariably separated by an angle of 60 degrees and fight, but it is especially cherished by all the snow sports display an endless variety of filigree branching patterns enthusiasts who enjoy heading off-piste into deep, that never lose their symmetry. Perhaps the most unprepared­ snow.

Ski ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Ski 22 23

The dream of endless winter Lucas Swieykowski lives for powder snow and spends his whole life in one season: winter! The pro freerider commutes between the Engadin and ­Argentina; his favourite mountain: the Corvatsch.

Text FRANCO FURGER Photographs FILIP ZUAN

Snow, ice and rock: Lucas is happiest in the high mountains Skiof the Engadin. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Ski 24 25

Always looking for the perfect line: freeride skier Lucas Swieykowski (above).

Light, deep powder: Lucas’s ucas trudges through the deep snow, avalanche risk. About 30 centimetres favourite breathing heavily. He is walking of fresh snow have fallen in the last kind of snow L (below). along a long mountain ridge in order to two days; even more up at 3,300 metres. access an untouched slope. Eventually he reaches the start of his run. He peers Every day, the professional freerider cautiously into the abyss. The snow looks studies different weather reports, snow- perfect: powdery and deep, just as he fall charts and the avalanche bulletin. likes it. Before Lucas sets off, he checks Where has the most snow fallen? Which his equipment: his avalanche airbag is direction is the wind coming from? ready for action, his goggles are in place, How are temperatures changing? Such his ski boots firmly buckled up. One questions occupy Lucas’s mind con- last deep breath, and he launches him- stantly. “Because a good powder day self into the untouched snow. begins with good preparation,” he says. Up on the mountain, the questions Up here on the Corvatsch, the 37-year- continue to fill his head: do the forecasts old knows his way around. He loves and reports match my observations? this high mountain, its steep flanks, its What does the surface structure of the mischievous hollows and long runs. snow tell me? Are there signs of natural “I find all the technical challenges I seek avalanches? The veteran skier evaluates as a skier,” he says. “And what always the conditions: “The wind wasn’t as bowls me over, time and again, is the strong as expected,” he says in English, view over the lake-strewn valley. In early “and that’s good.” winter, when the lakes haven’t frozen over yet, the scenery reminds me of the Skiing rather than studying fjords in Norway.” Lucas Swieykowski was born in the Argentinian capital, Buenos Aires. The art of reading the snow He learned to ski at a young age: he and Lucas places his turns precisely and his family regularly spent holidays in dynamically to make the snow spray up Bariloche, probably the best-known ski as much as possible. His run down the resort in South America. When Lucas long couloir ends with a whoop of joy was 11, the family moved permanently right by a chairlift, where he meets other to Bariloche, and skiing became the freeriders who congratulate him on his focus of his life. He became involved stylish line. They compare notes on runs in the local alpine club and soon they have done, on the consistency completed all levels of Argentina’s ski of the snow and their assessment of the instructor training programme.

Ski ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Ski 26 27

In the heart of the couloir: “On the Corvatsch I find all the challenges I seek.”

After he finished high school, Lucas went to Sweden, where his grandfather had lived for a long time. The young skier intended to study in Lund, like his elder brother, but he realised this was not his path: he wanted to ski and earn his living that way. In order to work as a ski instructor during the Argentinian summer, too, he travelled to the northern hemisphere: first to the USA, then to Canada, and later Europe, France, Austria, Andorra. And finally to the Engadin, which has become his second home.

It all began with a bar job But even Lucas’s work as a ski instruc- tor did not give him the satisfaction he sought. He wanted to ski more for himself and gain new skills in powder snow and open terrain, where real adventure lay. And he dreamed of a career as a freerider. Lucas confesses: “If I can’t be outdoors in the mountains, I become weird with time. I have to feel the elements: the wind, the cold, the snow spraying in my face. And the feeling of gliding over deep powder snow and riding a mountain slope in a controlled way is simply incomparable.”

As chance would have it, a friend got him a job in St. Moritz – not as a ski instructor but in a bar. Since then, Lucas has been spending every winter in the Engadin. “The magic of this valley

Ski ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Ski 28 29

Another perfect powder day! Lucas can’t wait for more…

grabbed me immediately: beautiful, find new aspects and constantly develop mighty mountains with a superb my skills. Today I look at mountains network of lifts that take you up in a totally different way to 10 years ago. to high-altitude alpine terrain. When I saw the Piz Palü for the first The possibilities of finding good time, for example, I thought: I’ll never snow and long runs here are virtual- go up there. Since then I’ve been up ly boundless.” several times – and skied down.”

Skiing boring? Never! High up on the Corvatsch, Lucas is Lucas’s first winter in the Engadin was preparing for his next run. He is also the springboard for his career as standing by the legendary Furtschellas a professional skier. He had the opportu- Couloir: he has skied down dozens nity to take part in the Engadinsnow of times, but every time it’s a new feel- event with the world’s top freeriders. ing, he says. “The snow is always “We abseiled from the Corvatsch cable different, so you never know exactly car straight into the competition slope, what to expect on the way. That’s which was scattered with cliffs,” Lucas precisely why I’m a freerider,” Lucas remembers. “It was crazy!” Sponsorship says – and disappears in the powder. deals soon followed, and Lucas began to travel the ski world and carry out film projects. The Engadin became his base for the winter. “I was in Japan, Alaska, Russia; and every time I came back to the Engadin, I was amazed how good and beautiful this valley is for skiing.”

Lucas spends the Engadin summers in the Bariloche winter. “I have family, friends and a home there,” he says. In Argentina, he continues to work as a ski instructor and also increasingly as a mountain guide, having completed this tough professional training, too. In i this way, Lucas lives the dream of the Sensational mountain terrain The Corvatsch is Silvaplana’s local mountain. endless winter. Skiing all year: doesn’t The summit station, 3,303 m above sea level, that ever get boring? “No way! I always is the highest in Graubünden. corvatsch.ch

Ski ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Ski 30 31

Life-saving courses Kit checklist All freeride enthusiasts and ski for a freeride day Skiing for all tourers are recommended to take Freeride enthusiasts should avalanche awareness courses always carry the following Fun on the pistes and adventure off-piste regularly in order to know best safety equipment when practice in an emergency. venturing off-piste: The one-day course run by the Pontresina Mountaineering School covers conduct on the slopes, use of avalanche transceiv- ers, interpretation of avalanche Avalanche shovel bulletins and best shovelling To dig out a person technique. Participants put this buried under snow as knowledge into practice right quickly as possible. away on the mountain – where the emphasis is on avoiding avalanches in the first place. bergsteiger-pontresina.ch

Avalanche transceiver Safe and expert guidance Transmits a signal and can also detect signals from Glorious views, pristine slopes and a real blast other transceivers. of adrenalin: freeriders can’t live without them. In return, they accept the dangers that unpre­ dictable nature brings. In order to minimise risk, it is well worth joining a guided freeride trip and taking advantage of the knowledge and wealth of experience of local mountain guides and Down the White Carpet ski instructors. These veteran riders guide their charges safely through the snow – and of course, Avalanche probe The thought of immaculately they know all the best runs. Allows rescuers to prepared but deserted pistes is engadin.ch/free-ride determine exactly where enough to get even the most an avalanche victim laid-back skier or snowboarder is buried and how deep. out of bed early. Many lifts in the i region already start at 7.45 am: no hint of a queue anywhere. White Risk app At the summit, as the first rays Provides information on current snow conditions of sunshine light up the slopes, and avalanche risk in Switzerland. early risers enjoy their personal whiterisk.ch White Carpet: a glorious run down perfect pistes. There’s no Transceiver / freeride checkpoint Avalanche rucksack better way to start the day! At the Diavolezza & Lagalb summit stations and Equipped with an airbag engadin.ch/white-carpet the Corvatsch & Furtschellas middle stations. system that provides Freedom calls, buoyancy in an avalanche. Far from the pistes: tips for extra safety far from the prepared pistes. Peace of mind with Snowcare The freedoms of a freeride outing also should venture on to open terrain only carry certain dangers. However, by in company and never alone; tackle Good insurance cover is essential for enjoying the slopes following various rules, participants can steep slopes one by one; and carry to the full. Snowcare insurance may be purchased together reduce risk. Riders should study the the necessary equipment at all times. with a lift pass for just CHF 5 per day. First aid kit latest weather and avalanche reports Find further tips for freeriders at engadin.ch/snow-care Includes a survival before every trip, for example; they engadin.ch/free-ride blanket and bandages.

Ski ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Ski 32 33

Snow Safari ski area especially attractive Fun runs to suit every taste for families and for ski and The Snow Safari leads snowboard schools. via some of the finest engadin.ch/small-ski-resorts pistes and cosiest Countless kilometres of piste await skiers and snow- mountain restaurants boarders in the Engadin. From easy practice slopes Restaurant 7 in the Engadin. White playground Furtschellas St. Moritz Bad Celerina Morteratsch to challenging black runs, the region has everything La Punt – A children’s snow engadin.ch/snow-safari Corvatsch Corviglia Diavolezza & Lagalb to thrill winter sports enthusiasts of every ability. zone, magic carpet, play area and two child-friendly runs promise endless ski fun for Down the Diavolezza’s 1 In a world of glaciers 3 Beginner-friendly youngsters. glaciers Diavolezza/Lagalb – The large Surlej – Novices enjoy engadin.ch/small-ski-resorts ski area boasts two superlatives: the easiest conditions by the Diavolezza – The Diavolezza the longest secured glacier run Cristins children’s ski lift. 8 For families glacier run leads through an in Switzerland and the steepest engadin.ch/for-families Zuoz – In the large children’s ski enchanting wilderness of snow piste in the whole canton. area, youngsters hone their skills, and ice: all the way down the diavolezza.ch 4 Classic action experienced skiers and snow- Pers and Morteratsch Glaciers Corviglia – St. Moritz and boarders enjoy the immaculately to the very end of the mighty 2 Freeride paradise Celerina’s local mountain offers prepared pistes, and all who enjoy river of ice. With a total Corvatsch – Alongside sensa- snow sports enthusiasts a little speed can glide down the length of 10 kilometres, this tional runs on- and off-piste, 36 runs of all levels of difficulty. race run with automatic speed is Switzerland’s longest glacier including the famous Hahnen- engadin.ch/slopes timer. engadin.ch/for-families run. Clear markings along see, attractions include one the ungroomed itinerary make of the Alps’ largest snowparks. 5 For budding racers 9 For novices this an ideal first glacier engadin.ch/freeride Languard – The small ski area S-chanf – The beginner’s lift and experience for good skiers. 8,848 metres for the club with gentle lifts and Snowli easy slope are ideal for all who engadin.ch/glacier-run Lagalb – Ever dreamed of Kids Village is ideal for families are enjoying their first experi- conquering the 8,848 vertical and beginners, who can ence on skis or on a snowboard. By the light of the full moon metres of Mount Everest, enjoy their first experience engadin.ch/small-ski-resorts the world’s highest peak? Winter of winter sports on the easy Diavolezza – “Glüna Plaina” means “full moon” sports enthusiasts can make piste. Every Thursday, 10 Tricky runs in Romansh. This is also the name of a special the dream come true in the children’s ski races take place. Aela – This small ski area near CHF treat for snow sports enthusiasts: gliding at night Engadin – and in so doing, be- engadin.ch/for-families Maloja offers two challenging down the pistes of the Diavolezza, illuminated for45 a one-day lift pass come members of the legendary pistes for experienced skiers only by the soft and magical light of the full moon. p.p. inc. public transport: Club 8848, founded in 1970. 6 Pistes for kids and snowboarders and, a little The freshly prepared runs open at 7.30 pm, special reduced rate To join, they must climb on foot Samedan – A long magic carpet, further up the valley, a practice promising an enchanting experience of the snowy with the “Sleep + Ski” deal from the upper cable car station a fun park and practice terrain slope for beginners. mountain landscape. Also recommended: for guests spending at least to the Piz Lagalb four times, full of variety make this small engadin.ch/small-ski-resorts a fortifying dinner at the Berghaus Diavolezza one night at participating and ski or snowboard down to mountain restaurant before setting off. accommodation. the base station 11 times. Anyone engadin.ch/full-moon engadin.ch/sleep-ski who completes the arduous task becomes a member of Club 8848. i engadin.ch/club-8848/en 1 Corvatsch Lagalb Diavolezza 2 Other night skiing experiences Snow-Deal Corvatsch Snow Night MALOJA 3 SILS Every Friday evening from 7 pm to 00.40 am Book early for the best deals! Thanks to ST. MORITZ SURLEJ 10 5 PONTRESINA SILVAPLANA (Dec–Jan) / 1.40 am (Feb–Apr). engadin.ch/snow-night the Upper Engadin lift company’s new dynamic CHAMPFÈR 8 VIP Snow Night pricing system, visitors who book early can enjoy 7 LA PUNT- 9 ZUOZ CHAMUES-CH CELERINA SAMEDAN Have the piste all to yourself for the BEVER an attractive discount on their ski pass. S-CHANF MADULAIN 6 4 Corviglia whole evening: bookable Saturday to Thursday. snow-deal.ch engadin.ch/vip-snownight/en Map: Rohweder

Ski ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Ski Craft

Handwork has a soul.

FRANK DOMMENZ (B. 1961) PAINTER AND ILLUSTRATOR Photo: Filip Zuan Filip Photo:

ENGADIN Magazine WINTER 36 37

throughout the world: for cooking and eating, as a tool, A tool conquers as a weapon and for hunting.

the world Stone tools: For people in the Stone Age, the hand axe, shaped from stone, was an important tool. Thanks to its many functions, it is often called the “Stone Age Swiss Army Knife”. The almond-shaped tool was useful for scraping, striking, chopping, and of course cutting.

From stone to metal: The beginning of the Bronze Age marked a change in the production of tools. People probably started making knives from copper instead of stone from the 4th millennium BC; later, they began to use the tougher copper-tin alloy of bronze, or the copper-zinc alloy of brass. Compared with stone, these metals were easier to work.

Triumph of iron: Eventually, the iron knife superseded all its predecessors. Provided that people had the necessary technological capability: processing the iron ore requires temperatures of 1,250 degrees Celsius. While the Iron Age began in some areas as far back as the 17th Century BC, in central Europe it dawned Through the centuries: evolution of the knife. only in the 8th Century BC.

Craftsmanship from the Val Fex: The knife is not Indispensable: Knives of all shapes and sizes, simple only an essential everyday object, it can also be a work and slim, lie in every kitchen drawer. At first sight, of art – particularly when it has been forged, shaped the blades may appear unassuming, and yet they are and sharpened with great skill. And a work of art is crucial to practically every area of life. The knife is also the only way to describe the exquisite Damascus knife one of the few objects that people of all cultures use made in the Val Fex: the legendary “Fexer”. Illustration: Seraina Fels Seraina Illustration:

Craft ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Craft 38 39

Special Fex

Deep in the s a child, Roger Rominger would wander through the forests Val Fex, a gifted A of the Val Fex, and when he saw an appealing piece of wood, he craftsman con- would reach into his trouser pocket and pull out his knife. A Swiss jures blades of Army knife, bright red, decorated with a silvery cross, which his father sparkling beauty. had given him. Roger was extremely proud of his folding knife.

Text DANIEL SCHÜZ Today Roger still lives in the same valley, on the same farm, where Photographs FILIP ZUAN he was born 35 years ago. In the meantime he, too, has become a loving father – who helps his wife, Martina, around the home, feeds the sheep in the shed, and tells legends from the mountains to the children, Marina and Gian-Marchet. In the autumn, he shoulders his rifle and heads up into the mountains to hunt chamois and red deer.

Farmer, father, hunter: Roger has many faces. But few know the face of Roger the artist-craftsman. Only a select number gain access to the place where he displays his mastery: his cutler’s smithy is an art studio, place of pilgrimage and sorcerer’s den, all in one.

He closes the door and draws the curtains before fastening his leather apron and adjusting his protective goggles. “They’re important,” he says, “because of the sparks and swarf. I’m already nearly blind in my left eye.” The forge, in which he lights the gas flame, is the heart Shower of sparks: Roger Rominger uses of his smithy, together with the anvil and a forging press that he built a circular cutter to cut the steel to Craftthe length of a knife. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Craft 40 41

The first day: the metal has been folded into 384 layers and has a tempera- ture of more than 1,000 degrees (above).

The last day: Roger places the hot blade on the anvil and works it with measured and precise hammer blows himself and named “S-charpa fier”: Romansh for “the steel-ripper”, until it is straight (below). after the faithful dog in a Romansh legend that finished off a fearsome dragon.

From another age Roger now places the tongs beside the forge and the heavy hammer by the anvil; he takes three flat, matt-grey steel bars from a shelf, weighs them up in his hand and places them precisely one on top of another. The flickering glow of the fire bathes Roger’s bearded face in a mysterious light: the craftsman has become a fire wizard. The artist from the Val Fex – the Fexer, as they say round here – seems a figure from another age: from a time when brave heroes would sever the heads of fire-breathing dragons, and noble knights would cut up their own robes to share with beggars. The heroes and knights would have carried swords that Roger would have forged, tempered and sharpened.

Here, today, the swords have shrunk to knives, to become fine tools in the hands of famous chefs or precious collectors’ items that can cost two to three thousand francs a time. A Fexer knife, as many of Roger’s clients testify, possesses magical powers.

It takes a week of patience and devotion, sweat and passion to finish one of the hand-made knives. The steel is heated to temperatures of up to 1,200 degrees and folded into many layers, while certain chemical elements ensure quality: vanadium protects the blade from wear, manganese makes the steel more workable, and carbon hardens it. In between several heating phases, the Fexer forges the glowing yellow bar with his hammer to shape it. Each time the hammer lands, yellow borax sparks spray out of the metal. “I use the forge hammer,” Roger says, “to beat my energy into the knife!”

Craft ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Craft 42 43

Before: the glowing metal, After four days: the sparkling heatedCraft to 800 degrees. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER knife, worth 1,800 francs. Craft 44 45

“Right then I knew that a perfect knife could be made only here, in this valley.”

ROGER ROMINGER The Fexer

Lifelines of the knife Right at the end of the process, when he sharpens the tempered steel, Roger has to take special care. Blood can easily flow. “I don’t have the time then to go running to the doctor,” he says with a grin, and points to his tool box. “The wound closes up well with some fast-drying glue and insulating tape.” He has always done that, he says, and never suffered an infection.

He began his career as a farrier – and horseshoes really did bring him luck. Nearly 20 years ago, as Roger was starting his apprentice- ship and helping his boss to shoe a horse, he lifted a hoof and looked up – straight into the eyes of the young horse rider. Nine years ago, they married. Since then, Martina has been busy in the Fexer kitchen, baking walnut cake, roasting lamb and entertaining hikers at the “MangiaBain” mountain restaurant with infectious enthusiasm. It is the same dedication that drives her husband when he takes his knife out of the forge and works it with his hammer until mysterious patterns form deep in the metal, the patterns that will eventually adorn the Damascus knife.

“Those are the knife’s lifelines,” Roger says. And he tells the story of how he was out hunting many years ago and discovered a big rock Tools: tongs and hammers on the slopes of the Piz Tremoggia. “It was stuck deep in the ground, are Roger’s and its surface was smooth – and had exactly the same pattern as key utensils (above). on a Damascus knife. Right then I knew that a perfect knife could be made only here, in this valley.” And he decided to teach himself the Signature stamp: at the skills to become a knifesmith. very end of the process, the knife is Secretly he hopes that one day he will actually succeed in fashioning adorned with the perfect knife. He wouldn’t admit it, though – because if he did, the Fexer stamp (below). he would have no reason for carrying on.

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Engadin. Ice sports One element, many worlds.

www.engadin.ch

Visual check: a perfect blade must “This one,” Roger says, taking a Damascus knife from its holder, be absolutely “is approaching perfection.” Recently, he continues, the Victorinox straight. company called. It wasn’t to offer him a job: executives from the biggest and best-known Swiss knife company wanted to travel to the Val Fex to see how the Fexer makes his knives. “We forged this wonderful blade together,” he says.

The Victorinox visit reminded him of happy childhood days – and of his first pocket knife, made by Victorinox. Thirty years later, the childhood dream has come true. “A prototype,” Roger says, smiling, “you could call it the first Victorinox-Fexer Damascus knife!”

i Handwork in smithy and kitchen Engadin. What mountains, what lakes, what light. Free use of public transport for Roger creates sharp knives while Martina conjures delicious guests who stay more than one night. lamb burgers – and, for dessert, tasty walnut cakes. Enjoy on site Further information: at the restaurant “MangiaBain” or order online from fexer.ch engadin.ch/ov-inklusive-winter

Craft

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Craft delicacies Colourful glasswork for foodies Zuoz – What do Zuoz’s church of Hand-crafted San Luzi, chapel of San Bastiaun La Punt Chamues-ch – Anyone seeking high-quality meat and the passageway to the town Unique artefacts of wood, stone and glass specialities from the Engadin car park all have in common? soon comes to Laudenbacher: At each, visitors find beautiful here, a great deal of skill and stained-glass windows that create care go into each Engadin a magical play of colour and sausage and every piece of form when light shines through. dried meat. It all began in 1965, These fragile works were when Giovanni and Hanna created by artists ranging from Laudenbacher started making Augusto Giacometti to Zuoz’s fine sausages in the two own Gian Casty. rooms they lived and worked in. Today, Laudenbacher is a Sculptures of ice successful family business Sils Maria – The sparkling with branches in Pontresina, works of art by Reto Grond can La Punt Chamues-ch and be admired for only a few months St. Moritz. The shops also sell of the year before the sunshine Engadin cheeses, wild salmon and warmth of spring turn them from Alaska and delicious inexorably back to water. The cakes. laudenbacher.ch artist uses hammer and chisel to create his ornate and surprisingly delicate ice sculptures, which decorate the forecourts of hotels and shops. The best way to find Skis shaped by hand and enjoy them is on a leisurely stroll through the village. Imagine gliding down slopes of freshly fallen eisfiguren.ch snow on skis that you have made yourself: that was the dream of Raffael Viletta and the brothers Dino and Nando Wespi. They started to tinker The “Engadin and experiment, sought out knowledge and Goldsmiths” work materials on the Internet and even developed their own ski press. For nearly ten years, the fruit of with gold and their labours has been delighting powder ski- silver – and also ing enthu­siasts who value high quality as much as elegant design. Lain skis, hand-crafted from natural stones fibreglass and fine timber, are certainly beautiful from the Engadin to look at. About 40 hours of painstaking work go into each pair, and the love and care of mountains. the person making them is obvious in each case. Engadiner Goldschmiede lainskis.ch Sils Maria engadingold.ch

Every house is a work of art New life for old wood As soon as you notice one, you spot them everywhere: pretty decorations adorn the The artist Jeff Lleshi uses driftwood from the Engadin and olive timber from Greece facades of old houses throughout the Engadin. The ornate patterns are not painted on but scratched direct in the plaster. This technique also gave the art form its name: to make his dramatic sculptures, imaginative lamps and all kinds of furniture. The materials “sgraffito”, derived from the Italian word “sgraffiare”, which means “to scratch”. he uses retain all their original character, so each of his creations is unique. Ever since the 16th Century, people of the Engadin have decorated the walls of their lleshi-art.ch

houses in this way with traditional patterns, symbols and motifs. kind permission By right: Photo

Craft ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Craft Ice

For dancers: Slippery ice A paradice If your dancing skills suffice.

FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE (1844–1900) Photo: Filip Zuan Filip Photo:

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Black magic: Sub-zero temperatures and no snowfall: Song when these conditions coincide, the surface of Engadin lakes freezes to form an almost smooth sheet of clear of the ice ice that sparkles, black and mysterious, in the sunshine. There are no snowflakes and hardly any air bubbles frozen into the so-called black ice, which makes it appear transparent. This natural wonder of uncanny beauty is rare, however. On average, the phenomenon occurs only twice a decade, casting a spell on those lucky enough to witness it.

The lake sings: Black ice is not only an optical curio­ sity; it also has a distinct acoustic character. The thick layer of ice may appear rigid and lifeless, but it is ­actually in constant movement, contracting and ­expanding all the time. Especially when the air above the lake is colder than the water under the ice, the whole sheet comes to life. At such times the lake creaks, sighs, bangs and bubbles, producing the wildest sounds. If there is still no layer of snow covering the ice at this point, the insistent concert is clearly audible.

The ice as sports venue: The frozen lakes are almost as important as the snow for winter tourism in the Engadin. The wide expanses provide a setting for all kinds of events including horse races and car races, as well as a vast playground for countless winter sports enthusiasts – who gather for Bavarian curling, speed skating, snowkiting or simply to trace some elegant pirouettes on the ice. Black ice: a chillingly beautiful natural spectacle.

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Black magic Clear, still and biting cold air has a bewitching effect on the surface of a lake. The result, under the right conditions, is a natural work of art: a scintillating venue for winter sports enthusiasts.

Text ANNA HERBST Photographs FILIP ZUAN

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Wingsurfing FOR TRENDSETTERS Wingsurfing is a cross between kitesurfing and windsurfing: not a new sport, but one that has been enjoying a boom in recent years. Even in low wind, the hand-held wing carries enthusiasts along swiftly – either with a board on water or with skates on ice. Preparation: Take instruction in summer in order to be ready for winter.

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Ice hockey FOR TEAM PLAYERS Not for the faint-hearted: ice hockey demands speed, agility and excellent control from team players who do not shy away from physical contact as they attempt to steal the puck from their opponents. Where to play: On nine of the Engadin’s ice rinks, some of which also rent out ice hockey equipment. engadin.ch/ice-sport-adrenalin

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Figure skating FOR AESTHETES When it comes to grace and elegance, hardly any sport can compare with figure skating. On the mysterious black ice, the challenging jumps, spins and other moves look even more magical. Skate rental: at any of the eleven ice rinks along the valley or from certain sports shops.

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Angling on ice Ice fishing on Lake Sils Frozen valley offers a wonderfully relaxing experience of nature. Icy experiences engadin.ch/ice-fishing

20 cm is the maximum permitted diameter of the ice hole. The Murtaröl restaurant hires Gliding in style along the banks of the Inn out manual ice augers. Madulain – Skate across the snow-covered meadows along the Inn, admire the play of light on the river, enjoy the views of the historical heart of the village of Madulain and breathe the pure tranquillity that reigns along the valley floor: the Madulain “ice path” offers a special skating experience, surrounded by nature. The trail starts by the works yard in Madulain and extends for about a kilometre. Bring your own skates; please metres note that you use the ice path at your own risk. 30 from cross-country ski trails engadin.ch/ice-way and winter walking paths is a minimum; only fish in Climbing walls of ice designated areas. Pontresina / Corvatsch – With crampons on their boots and an ice axe in each hand, enthusiasts scale mighty walls of ice painstakingly. They have two options in the Engadin for testing their skills. By the Corvatsch cable car summit station, staff release water at the clifftop to create an ice climbing wall, the highest of its kind in the world; aficionados cm can also tackle the frozen waterfall in the gorge at 40is the thickness of ice covering Pontresina. The Pontresina Mountaineering School the lake in deepest winter. offers daring novices the chance to try the sport under expert guidance. engadin.ch/ice-climbing

The Mercedes- A celebration of beauty, speed and skill Benz 300 SL Skating down a twisting channel of ice “Gullwing” of St. Moritz – Frozen Lake St. Moritz, under a unique celebration of the beauty of the the IWC Racing Every year, on a Saturday at the end of the winter season, the Olympia Bob Run offers the sparkling Engadin sunshine, has automobile. In February 2021 this select Team rockets an unusual and thrilling spectacle: up to 150 ice hockey players in full protective kit skate already provided an original venue for international gathering of enthusiasts across the ice. IWC Schaffhausen’s top-class IWC Racing once again celebrates the joys of speed on down the ice channel from St. Moritz to Celerina at breakneck speed. team to show its skills. “The ICE” – the snow-covered ice – in grand style. olympia-bobrun.ch/bobrunskating

International Concours of Elegance – is theicestmoritz.ch Bonnevie Mathieu left: Photo

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How strong is ice? Engadin. Cross-Country Skiing The thickness of ice needed to support people, carriages and elephants. 5 cm Always on Beware: where the ice is 10 cm over flowing water, it needs 15 cm the right track. to be considerably thicker! 35 cm Daredevil Brits St. Moritz / Celerina – It was a www.engadin.ch group of four British guests who brought the idea of holding a toboggan race down a channel of ice to the Engadin in 1884. Rules for venturing The hotel pioneers Johannes and onto frozen lakes Caspar Badrutt placed a run at their disposal, and since then Stay in company the Cresta races have been a key Never venture on to feature of St. Moritz life. The the ice alone. toboggans are little more than narrow boards on runners, but Avoid thin ice they pick up tremendous speed Look for fissures that show in the twisting channel of ice: the thickness of the ice. riders and toboggans hurtle down Shun weak spots the steep run from St. Moritz Keep away from broken or to Celerina at up to 140 km/h. milky ice and areas where Beginners can test their nerves water flows in, out or through. on the ice on a training run. Secrets of the glaciers cresta-run.com Pontresina – No fewer than 173 glaciers cover Beware poor visibility 40 sq. km of the Upper Engadin: an impressive Only step on to the ice 6 per cent of the region’s entire surface area! in good light conditions. Visitors of all ages can discover the secrets of Visitors venture on to the these marvels of nature in the “Bernina Glaciers ice at their own risk. Safety adventure territory” between the Engadin and tips are available from the Valposchiavo. Among the attractions is the tourist information offices Glacier Trail to the Morteratsch Glacier. While in each resort. adults follow the audio tour on the Bernina Glaciers app and learn fascinating facts about the mighty rivers of ice, children can solve the puzzle of the little glacier spirit, Sabi. bernina-glaciers.ch An ice rink for every taste Skaters of all ages can choose from no fewer than i 11 different natural and artificial rinks along the

Train ride through the world of glaciers valley. While experts glide around in style, beginners Enjoy glorious views of the sparkling can gain confidence with the help of a penguin or Engadin. What mountains, what lakes, what light. Free use of public transport for landscape through the panoramic windows other skating aids. Equipment can be hired locally. guests who stay more than one night. of the Bernina Express. engadin.ch/ice-sports Further information: engadin.ch/bernina-express/en engadin.ch/ov-inklusive-winter

Ice

200708_estm_inserat_140x204mm_EN.indd 2 08.07.20 12:02 Culinaria

Life is like a cocktail: it’s all in the mix.

FRIEDRICH LÖCHNER (1915 –2013) Photo: stock.adobe.com Photo:

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Colourful variety: Cocktails come in all colours of Colourful art the rainbow: poured into special glasses and decorated with a slice of orange, a cherry or a small paper para- of the cocktail sol, each one is a little work of art. Some make an ideal pre-dinner aperitif, while others are so strong that a few sips are enough to turn the head – and make their effects felt down to the fingertips.

Name with a mystery: The question of the origin of the name “cocktail” has given rise to plenty of stories. One says that it originated at cockfights, after which the owner of the winning cockerel would put a tail feather from the losing bird into the drink. According to another theory, the different layers of liqueur, ­carefully poured one over another into the glass, ­resemble the colourful plumage of a cockerel. We will probably never know which story is true – but we can enjoy debating the question at length over a well- mixed cocktail.

Endless possibilities: While some classic cocktails are enjoyed almost worldwide, most bartenders also have their own secret recipes up their sleeve. Now and again, one of these drinks will become a hit, winning fans far and wide.

Liquid celebrity: A recent arrival on cocktail menus that has already become a popular favourite is the sweet and sparkling Hugo. Its inventor is the man who runs the welcoming Gasthaus Spinas in the Val Bever: The right mixture: the key to a good cocktail. discover their story on the following pages. Photo: Cody Chan, Unsplash Chan, Cody Photo:

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Lemon balm & peppermint Roland “AK” Gruber is the man behind the Hugo. To taste this cult cocktail mixed by its creator, you have to travel deep into the sleepy Val Bever. High up the valley, surrounded by snow-blanketed forest, Roland runs the welcoming Gasthaus Spinas.

Text ANDRIN WILLI Photographs FEDERICO SETTE, FILIP ZUAN

hile snowflakes float in the dry winter air outside, indoors W it’s warm and cosy. “Magical, secluded and beautiful.” That’s how Roland Gruber, better known as AK, describes it. He is a down-to-earth type: bushy beard, knickerbockers, check shirt, neatly combed wavy hair: all the charm of Italy’s German-speaking South Tyrol region. Yet here he is, in the middle of an enchanted snowy forest, far from civilisation, in front of the restaurant that he Already on the train ride runs: the Gasthaus Spinas. into the idyllic Val Bever, visitors feel the place’s special magic. Culinaria 72 73

The original HUGO

As mixed by the cocktail’s inventor, Roland “AK” Gruber

“I landed here by chance,” he says. The veteran restaurateur moved around between different venues in Switzerland for 12 years before settling in the Engadin with his wife, Gabriella, and children, Erik and 150 ml Prosecco Livia. That was in 2016, when the owners of the Chesa Salis in Bever (dry) entrusted him with the secluded restaurant and appointed him manager. The Spinas’s success proved them right – and also speaks for the trust they put in Gruber. “We enjoy a lot of freedom, which we really appreciate and make use of in our daily work,” AK says. But first of all, let’s step inside.

2 cl lemon balm A lively and colourful history syrup The first written record of this secluded building serving as a hostelry The menu at the far end of the valley dates from 1876. The boom came 23 years From simple dishes for CHF 23 to house later, in October 1899, when work began on construction of the specialities for CHF 79, Albula railway tunnel. Back then, Spinas was home to up to 1,300 the menu has something mineral water foreign labourers, mostly Italian: lodged in cramped huts deep for everyone. “We’re not a pretentious mountain in the forest, they lived on dried sausages and pasta – and plenty of restaurant with high booze, apparently. A contemporary account reports how the local prices and small portions. country policeman had to expect the worst when he visited the inn. Here you meet hikers, fresh “After closing time, to be on the safe side, he walked out of the cross-country skiers, peppermint families and all kinds of leaves inn backwards,” wrote one of the engineers at the time. The latter people who just enjoy also made a point of stressing how the greatest commotion erupted good food,” Roland Gruber says. The classic in the inns the moment the engineers arrived. dish here is typical Engadin sausage with ice cubes Major commotions are no longer the order of the day in Spinas, but South Tyrol sauerkraut and bacon dumplings. things still get lively when walkers and cross-country skiers arrive “Our idea is to work with at the same time for lunch. Or in the evening, when a Rhaetian the best producers in Railway train stops on request. Soon afterwards, a convivial buzz the region or elsewhere in Switzerland. Good of conversation fills the two dining rooms, and the unmistakable food, a delicious wine and aroma of melted cheese hangs in the air in the fondue parlour. to finish off, a fine fruit At such moments, it is well worth having a table booked in advance. brandy or a grappa. That’s us, that’s the Spinas.” Culinaria ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Culinaria 74 75

While snowflakes float in the dry winter air outside, indoors it’s warm and cosy.

As soon as guests take a seat, the commotion gives way to eager antic- ipation for the gastronomic delights to come. For the menu and the wine list, AK and his team have blended the charm and specialities of South Tyrol with the magical power of the Engadin. To achieve this, they take ingredients from regional alpine cuisine – which are pretty much the same in both mountain regions – and make them into fresh, seasonal dishes that defy national boundaries. The team also enjoys experimenting with new flavours and conjuring fresh creations. “Except for things like Rösti: our Swiss guests don’t appreciate it if we try anything fancy,” AK says with a smile. Even if you can order Rösti just about everywhere, taking it off the menu is virtually taboo, he says. AK runs his fingers through his flowing grey beard and says in a hushed voice: “Believe me, I’ve tried…”

The good old-fashioned Rösti here is actually very good. But that is not what draws the growing number of foodies who make the pilgrimage to the idyllic Val Bever: rather, the fine nuances of the imaginative and skilful Spinas cuisine based on carefully selected ingredients from the region. Guests certainly have to make an effort to come here: there is no car access, so the only way to the Gasthaus Spinas is on foot, on cross-country skis, in a horse-drawn sleigh or by train. “We even have our very own station!” AK says, proudly. He has fitted work schedules around the Rhaetian Railway timetable.

Before coming to the Engadin, Roland Gruber had gained a variety of experience – also in his previous career in business. He used to run From the hundred-year a bar in the South Tyrol called the “SanZeno”, and it was here that old bowling he invented the Hugo: a cocktail made with Prosecco, lemon balm alley to shared fondues, syrup and fresh mint, launched in 2005 and subsequently a big a convivial success, especially in German-speaking regions. “Some guests come to atmosphere is guaranteed. the Spinas just because of that,” AK says. And hardly a day goes by

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Spinas: a haven of hospitality and cosy cheer in the heart of the without someone talking to him about the cult cocktail. Even in snow-covered the depths of the Val Bever winter, people regularly order Hugos. landscape. “Of course that makes me proud, but I don’t go in for all the hype,” he says. “The whole thing was never meant to be anything serious, but for the past 15 years the story has been following me around!” It has also brought him wealth – but only a wealth of stories and experiences. Recently, a guest even came from Paris specially because of the drink. Such encounters are gratifying – but that’s the end of the story, he says.

The draws: nature, cuisine and a warm welcome With this important signature cocktail on the drinks list, it is hardly surprising that the Spinas produces and sells its own home-made lemon balm syrup, along with jams and Swiss stone pine syrup – all in this idyllic alpine setting, 1,818 metres above sea level. “My Hugo has never been anywhere near elderflower syrup and never will. I remain totally stubborn about that,” AK says with a smile. After all, it is the lemon balm syrup that gives the drink its unique harmony, which so delights guests.

Visitors also feel a sense of harmony when they sleep in one of the 12 small guest rooms, decorated and furnished with charming simplicity. Bathrooms are shared, as befits mountain accommodation. AK is delighted that more and visitors and repeat guests choose to stay for longer. “Anyone who stays for more than a week comes for the natural setting, but also for the cuisine and the hospitality,” he says with conviction. They also come for the tranquillity. As soon as the last train has departed, all you can hear deep in the Val Bever is the dreaming of the snow-covered trees under the glittering stars.

i Drink the original Hugo Your host: Roland “AK” Gruber, Gasthaus Spinas, Val Bever, 7502 Bever, +41 81 851 19 20 spinasbever.ch

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8 Ecco St. Moritz Restaurants to suit all tastes Champfèr – This opulent and A valley to savour fashionable restaurant fully St. Moritz and the Engadin are known internationally deserves its two Michelin stars. Gastronomic flights of fancy as a gourmet destination: the region is home to giardino-mountain.ch a wide variety of restaurants that serve a mouth- 9 Restaurant Murtaröl watering range of superb cuisine. Plaun da Lej – The fish and seafood dishes, especially, have given this restaurant on the 1 Hotel Castell shore of Lake Sils a superb 5 Zuoz – Unpretentious cuisine reputation. plaundalej.ch inspired by alpine traditions. hotelcastell.ch 10 Kuhstall Sils Maria – In summer, the 2 Chesa Stüva Colani “cattle shed” really does house Madulain – Original dishes cows; in winter, it serves and an intimate ambience. imaginative cuisine and fine hotelchesacolani.com wines. corvatsch.ch

3 Hotel Gasthaus Krone 11 Arvenstube, Hotel La Punt Chamues-ch – Chef Edelweiss Andreas Martin is known for Sils Maria – Local and interna- his 4-course “Swiss stone tional cuisine served in a cosy, pine” menu. krone-la-punt.ch pine-panelled dining room. 6 Gianottis Wilderei hotel-edelweiss.ch 4 La Padella, Hotel Donatz Pontresina – Exquisite meat Samedan – Seasonal dishes and fish dishes served 12 Ristorante Bellavista and meat specialities made direct from the grill in the Maloja – Home-made pasta and with the finest Angus beef middle of the room. other traditional Italian dishes. from Engadin mountain cattle. gianottis.ch ristorante-bellavista.ch hoteldonatz.ch 7 St. Moritz i 5 Kronenstübli St. Moritz is renowned for its gourmet restaurant superb and diverse cuisine: a A world of flavours Pontresina – Selected deli­cacies tenth of all restaurants have Further information on gourmet from Italian-Mediterranean and been awarded a gourmet label! restaurants at French cuisine. kronenhof.com engadin.ch/st-moritz engadin.ch/gourmet-restaurants/en

The pop-up MALOJA Photo right: kronenhof.com right: Photo

/ 11 restaurant 10 7 12 Fondue under a star-filled sky SILS SURLEJ promises an ST. MORITZ 6 Champfèr – Guests can enjoy a delicious fondue and sparkling champagne under a original dining PONTRESINA 8 9 SILVAPLANA 5 glittering star-filled sky – without a shiver! The exclusive experience is on offer experience. CHAMPFÈR LA PUNT- at the pop-up restaurant “RSRV Cheese & Champagne” (pronounced: Réserve) on the CHAMUES-CH ZUOZ 4 CELERINA 2 terrace of the Hotel Giardino Mountain. A transparent dome covers the dining tables S-CHANF 1 3 BEVER SAMEDAN and allows a view of the night-time landscape. Advance booking strongly advised. MADULAIN engadin.ch/giardinohotels/en By kind permission left: Photo

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For night owls Alpine herb liqueur Engadin. Skiing After sunset, the Engadin Musk milfoil is an alpine plant reveals sparkling new that grows between altitudes of attractions. 1,700 and 2,300 metres and is engadin.ch/nightlife known in Romansh as “Iva”. Heavenly runs People in the Engadin use the plant’s white flowers – also regar- ded as a cure for upset stomach – at every turn. to make a clear, bittersweet herbal liqueur, and have probably done so since at least the 18th Century. This Iva liqueur is best Walther Bar, Pontresina www.engadin.ch served neat, on ice. Surrounded by works of art, guests enjoy live piano music, an attractive choice Who invented it? of drinks and fine cigars. The origin of the Graubünden walnut cake, one of the best-known and most popular Swiss cakes, is the subject of many stories – and no fewer than three families claim to have Legacy of the patissiers invented it. By the time you are enjoying your first mouthful In the 17th Century, the Engadin was a tough Bar «Püf», Silvaplana place to live, whose inhabitants struggled to “Püf” is Romansh for “owl” of buttery pastry, caramel and make a living from the bare soil. A large number – the perfect name for this walnuts, however, the question emigrated – including many to Venice, where popular nightspot with a of who created this heavenly they earned a living as patissiers, opened coffee cosy ambience and cool vibe. delicacy seems academic. houses, brewed beer and made chocolate. They never forgot their homeland, however, and many returned to the Engadin wealthy. The region consequently acquired palatial buildings that dominate the valley to this day – such as the Lyceum Alpinum in Zuoz and what is now the Hotel Castell, Zuoz Hotel Margna in Sils Baselgia. Friday night is film night engadin.ch/sweet-empire at the Hotel Castell in Zuoz, with a programme of i hand-picked gems. After For sun worshippers screenings, everyone gathers What would a day in the snow Sweet temptations in the stylish Red Bar, The Engadin’s many patisseries sell hand-made designed by the artist be without a relaxing break chocolates, “pear bread”, walnut cake and more. Pippilotti Rist. in the winter sun? In addition to the mountain restaurants in the ski areas, there are many lovely spots at the foot of the Gastronomic treat in the open air mountains for soaking up Anyone who does not mind the cold, loves a fondue but prefers to the sun: for example, in the not to fill the air at home with the aroma of melted cheese can enjoy garden of the Bar Cetto in Sils Maria, on the wooden terrace a gastronomic outdoor adventure with a difference: a fresh-air of the Hotel Castell in Zuoz fondue. The requirements: warm clothing, a good-quality burner Engadin. What mountains, what lakes, what light. Ski pass for CHF 45 per overnight stay. or at Sils’s Beach Club on the Further information: and a hearty appetite for a meal to remember! shores of Lake Silvaplana.

engadin.ch/sleep-ski Oberengadin Kulturarchiv above: Photo engadin.ch/sun-terraces

Culinaria

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For something to be possible, you have to keep attempting the impossible.

HERMANN HESSE (1877– 1962) Photo: Keystone, Arno Balzarini Arno Keystone, Photo: 84 85

1886 An electric tram carries guests between Swiss pioneering St. Moritz Bad and St. Moritz Dorf for the first spirit aims high time. 1889 The first section of the narrow-gauge railway between Landquart and Davos opens.

The combination was unique: pioneering entrepreneurs 1889 The world’s steepest cog railway, ahead of their time, talented engineers who dreamed the Pilatus Railway, scales the Pilatus up groundbreaking technology, and sufficient financial for the first time. means. Together, these enabled Switzerland to take a trailblazing role in the construction of innovative new 1903 Construction of the Albula tunnel links the transport systems. Engadin to the Rhaetian Railway network.

1847 The first fully Swiss railway line links Zurich 1907 The first funicular in the Upper Engadin and Baden. It acquires its nickname of Spa­ opens, taking visitors up to Muottas Muragl. nisch-Brötli-Bahn (“Spanish bun railway”) from the sweet pastries, baked in Baden, 1928 The world’s first funicular designed that it transports for the well-to-do of Zurich. purely for winter sports is built for the Winter Olympics in St. Moritz. 1866 The world’s first passenger cable car goes aloft near Schaffhausen. It serves to carry 1934 The world’s first ski lift, with a J-shaped turbine attendants across the Rhine. bar, goes into action in Davos. Just a year later, St. Moritz also inaugurates a drag lift. 1871 Europe’s first cog railway carries tourists from Vitznau up the Rigi. 1944 Switzerland’s first chairlift enters operation at the Jochpass. 1882 The opening of the Gotthard railway creates a comfortable link between southern and 1971 The Furtschellas cable car is founded. northern Europe and makes Switzerland’s It celebrates its 50th anniversary in winter pioneering spirit world-famous. 2021/22.

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Switzerland’s cable cars, with their time- Floating less charm, feel as if they have always been part of the in heaven landscape. But inspi- ration, innovation and pioneering spirit were needed before the cabins could take to the skies.

The Furtschellas cable car, officially Oberengadin Kulturarchiv Photo: Text STEPHANIE ELMER called Sils-Maria– Prasüra, has run since 1972. Cultura 88 89

The Piz Nair cable car, probably during its first winter season 1955/56. To the right, the old summit station of the Corviglia funicular.

ad’s big hands on my shoulders warmed them up and made me D forget my cold toes in my heavy ski boots for a while. I lay my forehead against the window until the glass misted up and I could trace stars and dots on it. I imagined the cable car was a magic ship. A pitching, swaying ship that would simply carry on floating beyond the summit station, past the Furtschellas cliffs, on and on and on. The sea of white cloud below, the blue sky above – and us in between, light as a feather.

Pioneering spirit spirit was world-famous. The crossing In former times, mountains were seen as through the Alps not only connected rocky monsters to be avoided. The idea German-speaking Switzerland with of floating up or over them was unimagi- the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, nable – not only for technical reasons. but effectively linked northern Europe Photo: By kind permission By Photo:

With the Age of Enlightenment in the with India – as the historian Joseph / 18th Century, this perception changed Jung argues in his book “Das Labora­ gradually: fear gave way to awe. Now torium des Fortschritts. Die Schweiz admired for their beauty, the Alps im 19. Jahrhundert” (“The laboratory became a magnet for mountaineers in of progress: Switzerland in the search of adventure and glory, as well 19th Century”). as for travellers eager to marvel at the majesty of these wonders of nature. In hindsight, we can say that construc- th

From the mid-19 Century, the Swiss tion of the Gotthard railway also al. et Jehli Marco by im Engadin” “Bahnvisionen / Alps became the most-visited travel marked the birth of the Rhaetian destination in Europe. Railway. When the Gotthard line opened, the volume of traffic transiting The arrival of the travellers prompted a through Graubünden collapsed over- desire within Switzerland for greater night, and the mountain canton plunged mobility and prosperity. New railways into an economic depression. A visitor made remote valleys accessible and from the Netherlands, Willem Jan carried day-trippers up to mountaintops. Holsboer, believed that only construc- By the time the Gotthard railway line tion of a railway could help the region

opened in 1882, Switzerland’s pioneering out of stagnation. im 19. Jahrhundert” Jung “Die Schweiz Joseph by Source:

Cultura ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Cultura 90 Corvatsch, 3,303 m

Diavolezza, 2,978 m First ascent: 08.15 Last ascent: 16.00 / 16.15 Skywards daily, every 15 minutes, from 23 Dec 20 to 5 Feb 21 / First ascent: Funiculars, cable cars, gondolas: the Engadin has many ingenious 6 Feb to 11 Apr 21 08.20 installations that carry visitors quickly, safely and comfortably from Last ascent: the valley up to the snowy summits. Here is a selection of the Furtschellas, 2,312 m Murtèl CORVATSCH 16.00 / 16.20 best-known facilities, including dates and hours of operation. daily, every 20 minutes, from 28 Nov 20 to Surlej 5 Feb 21 / 6 Feb to 25 Apr 21 Piz Lagalb, 2,893 m CORVATSCH Corvatsch The Corvatsch is one giant playground for winter sports enthusiasts of all tastes. The ideal topography promises superb snow conditions until the end of April. DIAVOLEZZA

08.40 (1st half of season)/ Piz Nair, 3,057 m Bernina First ascent: 08.00 (2nd half of season) First ascent: 08.15 Diavolezza Last ascent: 16.00 Sils First ascent: Last ascent: 16.20 / 17.00 FURTSCHELLAS 09.00 / 08.30 daily, every 20 minutes, Last descent: 17.00 Last ascent: from 23 Dec 20 to 5 Feb 21 / daily, every 15 minutes, 16.00 / 16.30 6 Feb to 2 May 2021 from 23 Dec 20 to 11 Apr 21 daily, every 10 minutes, from 23 Dec 20 First ascent: 08.45 to 5 Feb 21 / LAGALB Last ascent: 15.45 6 Feb to 11 Apr 21 Bernina First descent: 09.00 Lagalb Last descent: 16.30 Corviglia, 2,486 m Diavolezza/Lagalb daily, every 15 minutes, This ski area is heaven for experienced skiers and freeride from 19 Dec 20 to 5 Apr 21 enthusiasts. As well as demanding pistes and fabulous views, it offers a spectacular glacier run.

Chantarella Muottas Muragl, 2,456 m First ascent: 07.50 First ascent: 07.45 Last ascent: 16.30 Last ascent: 17.00 First descent: 08.00 Signal, 2,130 m St. Moritz First descent: 08.05 Last descent: 17.00 Dorf Last descent: 17.05 daily, every 10 minutes / daily, every 15 minutes, from 13.00 every 15 minutes, from 28 Nov 20 to 27 Mar 21 MMB from 28 Nov 20 to 5 Apr 21

MMB Marguns, 2,279 m Corviglia The mountain on St. Moritz’s doorstep has twice served as a Winter Olympics venue; the Alpine World Ski Championships First ascent /descent: 07.45 have taken place on its steep slopes no fewer than five times. Last ascent/descent: 23.00 St. Moritz daily, every 30 minutes, Bad from 19 Dec 20 to 5 Apr 21

First ascent: 07.45 Muottas Muragl Last ascent: 16.30 A historical funicular carries visitors to one of the finest vantage points in the Engadin. Last descent: 17.00 10 daily, from 28 Nov 20 to 5 Apr 21 Punt Muragl, Celerina base station 92 93

The funicular sleigh led Thanks to his initiative, the first section faster than with horses, but substantially The motto of the day: ever further, ever from Corviglia

of the new narrow-gauge railway more comfortable. higher. During these decades, pioneers to the plateau

Moritz, below the went into operation in 1889: the line invented the technology behind the cog Piz Nair Pitchen; from Landquart to Davos. Over the Ever higher railway and the funicular railway, for it was inaugu- rated in 1937. following years, the rail network was At the same time as the railways were example – and put these into operation continually extended throughout developing rapidly in the second half in grand style. the “canton of 150 valleys”. The first of the 19th Century, engineers were journey from Landquart to St. Moritz searching for new ways to negotiate major These successes gave wings to attempts St. Dokumentationsbibliothek Photo: in 1904 took 12 hours – not really climbs via the shortest possible route. Pedrett Andreas to carry passengers through the air – and

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in 1866, the world’s first passenger cable cableways worthy of protection – the car went into operation. Located by first of its kind in the world. the Rhine Falls near the Swiss town of Schaffhausen, this installation carried All the cableways, however, whether turbine attendants across the river to or not they are listed, tell of countless their workplace. In 1955, the first cable pioneering deeds that first enabled car in the Upper Engadin took to the skies. visitors to glide up to the peaks. Take Gliding from Corviglia up to the Piz the Furtschellas cable car, for example: Nair, this was the first cable car open to the project was launched in 1971, and the public to break the 3,000-metre its anniversary is now being celebrated. altitude barrier. That was the year that John Lennon’s Today, there are more than 1,700 cable “Imagine” hit the charts worldwide. car facilities throughout Switzerland; if In Switzerland, women finally won the the minor (and often nerve-tingling) right to vote in federal elections; in installations are included, the total comes Great Britain, Queen Elisabeth II awarded to more than 3,000. Many of these Agatha Christie the honour of cableways are primarily for tourism; “Dame Commander of the Order of many, however, are also lifelines for the British Empire”. precipitous and remote locations that are otherwise inaccessible. Together, these The two cabins of the Furtschellas facilities embody a colourful diversity of cable car not only connected perma- uses and a remarkable variety of technol- nently the valley with the mountain SPORTS AND ogy, with a fascinating cultural and his- and the mountain with the valley: they FASHION – torical significance. As a result, many are also made Sils a coveted destination listed in the Swiss Cableway Inventory for for winter sports enthusiasts. TRADITION AND QUALITY The sounds of these installations have remained the same for nearly five decades. The clanking of the doors as they close; the hum of the cables as the cabin starts moving; the clatter of the rollers as they ride GIOVANOLI SPORT & MODA • SILS • WWW.GIOVANOLI-SILS.CH over the supporting towers. “We’re flying,” a child says, as we glide gently skywards.

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Mountain rides A look behind the scenes The Engadin’s lifts Corviglia – Skiers witness little of Riding high in figures. the work that goes on behind the scenes in ski areas. St. Moritz’s Cable cars, funiculars and more local mountain offers groups – on reservation – the chance to lifts transport see with their own eyes the effort 58guests in winter – including required to ensure carefree ski­ cable cars, gondolas, ing for guests. The visit covers funiculars, chairlifts, T-bars everything from the chairlift and other drag lifts. “garage” to the gondola motor; highlight is the chance for participants to drive a piste grooming machine themselves. 3,303 metres is mountains.ch the altitude of the Corvatsch cable car summit station. That makes it the highest summit station in the whole of the canton of Graubünden! From here, pistes lead via the Corvatsch Glacier down to the valley floor. Early ride to sunrise Corviglia – While other people are still snoozing under the duvet or pouring their second cup of snow coffee at breakfast, early birds are looking forward grooming22 machines operate to a special start to the day. Before the normal World Heritage on rails every day on the Corviglia official opening time, they ride by cable car up Just like the mountains and and Muottas Muragl to the 3,057-metre Piz Nair to enjoy the spectacle lakes, the red carriages of the mount­ ains alone, keeping of the sun’s first rays emerging from behind Rhaetian Railway are an integral the runs and trails in top the mountains and casting a magical light over feature of the Engadin landscape. shape. the waking landscape. At sunrise, precisely, A ride on one of trains, mean- the summit restaurant serves a generous buffet while, is an adventure in itself. breakfast. Fortified, visitors can then ride back down The Albula line from Chur to to the valley in the cable car – or glide down 65,000 St. Moritz and the Bernina line, on skis or snowboard. During the winter season people can be transported every which leads through a world of 20/21, the early-morning rides take place on hour on the Engadin’s cable glaciers and snow before heading the following dates: 31 January, 28 February and cars, funiculars and ski lifts. down to Tirano in Italy, form 28 March. part of UNESCO World Heritage. engadin.ch/sunrise/en engadin.ch/train-rides

Round off the day in style The Gondolezza Visitors who do not manage the early ride to see sunrise can enjoy the “magic hour” at dusk instead. From cable car to cheese restaurant takes cheese lovers to The best place to make the most of the bewitching Engadin twilight is the Muottas Muragl The former cable car in front of the Hotel and fondues made with delicious cheese seventh heaven. Steinbock in Pontresina no longer carries from the region, along with a variety panoramic restaurant. During a romantic candlelit dinner, guests can gaze along the entire valley visitors up to the Diavolezza, but instead of tasty side servings. Adventurous diners and see the sparkling lights of the houses in the villages echo the twinkling stars in the sky. offers gastronomic flights of fancy. can brave the spicy “Devil’s fondue”. mountains.ch

The cosy Gondolezza serves Raclettes gondolezza.ch Steinbock Hotel left: Photo

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Family

“In dreams, we enter a world that is entirely our own.” ALBUS DUMBLEDORE IN “HARRY POTTER AND THE PRISONER OF AZKABAN” Photo: Ondřej Prosický, Dreamstime.com Prosický, Ondřej Photo:

Family ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Family 100 101

idea: an alpine school providing education at the highest High school level. The challenge: conjuring it into existence.

The impetus came from the region itself: on 19 Septem- The region’s best-known school, founded more ber 1896, a group of influential people from the Engadin than 100 years ago, overlooks the peaceful village met in Bever to discuss “the question of founding an of Zuoz – 1,721 metres above sea level. educational establishment at a peaceful location in the Engadin.” Long years of research and preparation fol- lowed before the construction contract could be awarded in 1902.

The Lyceum opens its doors: On 15 June 1904, the first year at the “Institut Engiadina” began for 22 eager schoolboys. Alongside 10 Swiss boys, another four travelled from America, three from France, three from England and two from Russia.

A school village is born: The school expanded consider- ably in the 1920s and gained an indoor pool as well as a theatre and concert hall accommodating up to 250 peo- Photo: Keystone, Photopress-Archiv, Walter Studer Walter Photopress-Archiv, Keystone, Photo: / ple. During this decade, girls were allowed to study at the Lyceum for the first time – but not yet to board. This only came about in 1991. In addition, the school bought Biology lesson at the Lyceum around 1948. a large area of meadow by the river Inn in 1922 on which to create Europe’s highest cricket pitch. Fresh air for young blood: With construction of the Lyceum Alpinum Zuoz, the founders of the school Higher education: Today, children and teenagers of achieved their goal of giving young people from the low- both sexes from about 30 countries study at the school. lands the opportunity to complete their schooling in a Among the mountains of the Engadin, they obtain the pleasant and secluded setting with fresh air to stimulate Swiss Matura, the German Abitur or the “International mind and body. The project all began with a daring Baccalaureate” – and learn plenty of lessons in life, too. Metz Peter by heights”), the sunny on (“Schools Höhe” besonnter “Schulen auf Source:

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A magical spell on life’s journey

Deep in the mountains, a unique place of learning transforms the destiny of youngsters from all over the world. Harry Potter for Muggles* Text KARL GRAUHANS

Chocolate Frogs, Bertie Bott’s Beans and Liquorice Wands – magical sweets on sale in the Hogwarts Express, the train to the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. oftly and silently, the owl turns its head and looks down the long *Muggle – the name valley. Evening is approaching. The air is cool and fresh, filled wizards and witches S give to people with- with the scent of pine; the last rays of sunshine are disappearing up out magical powers. the mountainsides, and all is still. Albus Dumbledore – the headmaster Suddenly, a deep rumble from the forest disturbs the silence. The of Hogwarts. trees start to shake; the rattling noise gets louder and louder. an Nimbus 2000 – The next moment, a train thunders out of the forest and across the especially fast flying broomstick, also white meadow. Powder snow sprays around the red carriages. used for Quidditch, The iron horse plunges into the next curve with a metallic screech. the sport played by A couple of sparrows fly up; the owl focuses its gaze and peers into witches and wizards. the brightly lit carriage. It is full of youngsters, chattering simul­ Sorting Hat – a speaking hat that taneously and gesticulating wildly as they hurtle towards their desti- assigns new arrivals nation. Surely any moment the food trolley will come along and to one of the four hand out ­“Chocolate Frogs”, “Bertie Bott’s Every Flavour Beans” and houses at the beginning of their “Liquorice Wands”… It is Sunday evening, and the train is bring-

Photo: Roberto Moiola, Alamy Stock Photo Stock Alamy Moiola, Roberto Photo: first school year. ing the students to the old school. The “Lyceum Express” brings students Familyto the old school. ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Family 104 105

At night, all is supposed to be still in the Where the world comes together corridors of the Lyceum. At Zuoz, the students get off the train and watch as it continues its journey. Up on the slopes above, the imposing buildings of the Lyceum Alpinum Zuoz await. The castle-like campus is visible from far and wide; with its proud clocktower and network of intercon- nected buildings, impossible to overlook. An impressive sight. What could be going through the minds of students as they look up for the first time at this mighty complex on the mountain? Awe? Excitement? Anxiety? For many of them, the school will become their second home for years.

About two-thirds of the 300-odd students have travelled from distant corners of the world – from the desert strongholds of Arabia, perhaps, or the splendid castles of Russia or the endless expanses of the Ama- zon. In Zuoz, they meet students from the valley, who may never have left this magical place: an explosive mix of Muggles and initiates that, especially at the start of their schooldays, can lead to conflicts and tears.

Over the years, however, most of the friction is resolved and the students form sworn friendships in groups that transcend all national boundaries. As Albus Dumbledore says: “We are only as strong as we are united, “We are only as as weak as we are divided.” After all, the strong as we are students are all here for a simple reason: to prepare for life and to acquire skills united, as weak as and tricks that will help them on their we are divided.” journey. So they learn foreign languages, study the laws of nature and, through all kinds of competitions, train mind and body for success. They also explore the great dramas of world history through performances at the school’s in-house theatre, and use all the latest technology to discover the knowledge that rules the world.

Mens sana in corpore sano After long hours in the library, the students head for the schools’ numerous sports facilities: a healthy mind requires a healthy body. They are introduced to the secrets of Eton Fives, for example, a special game played only at select schools. It is tempting to want to come along with a nippy Nimbus 2000 broomstick: after all, in

Photo: Keystone, Photopress-Archiv, Walter Studer Walter Photopress-Archiv, Keystone, Photo: Eton Fives a small ball flies around wildly, and the players have to

Family ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Family 106 107

hit it with special gloves. This is a very fast game that requires quick The houses reactions, stamina and a sense of fair play. Luckily the rules are After the first, long day at school, local boys and girls head back to relatively simple, so that even a perplexed newcomer quickly figures their familiar home, but international students remain in the school’s out how the game works, who wins and what tricks help. spacious premises, where they board in different houses. Instead of a “Sorting Hat” to assign students to the different houses, the lady in One aspect of the game, however, remains a mystery to many the school office performs the task, grouping the youngsters by age students, even to the end of their schooldays: the board by the lower and sex. Boys are sent to the Kleinhaus, Mittelhaus or Grosshaus, girls Eton Fives courts in Zuoz. It shows a clock with a bone and an to the Chesa Urezza and Chesa Arpiglia. arrow for hands, which together show the time of 1.25 pm. Only the more inquisitive children find out during their schooldays what When they arrive, they meet their House Captain, a student who the board is all about: this is an affectionate tribute to two legendary represents house members and who plays an important role in the Zuoz teachers that students nicknamed Bone and (Arrow) Stork, smooth running of boarding school life. He or she reminds the who used to play a game of Eton Fives every day at 1.25 pm. newcomers that visiting other houses is forbidden – so it is important

Grosshaus Rektoratshaus Kleinhaus Staff building Staff Lärchenhaus Chesa Urezza Chesa Mittelhaus the Head of School’s office; office; School’s of the Head reception, school office and and office school reception, senior boys also board here. board also boys senior hall; facilities also include the include the also hall; facilities The main building contains the the contains The main building Gym girls in grades 11 and 12. in grades girls health centre and learning support. and learning centre health Home to the auditorium and dining and dining the auditorium to Home Boarding house for senior senior for house Boarding Grusaida Grusaida Sporthalle Nadighaus Fitness centre centre Fitness Chesa Arpiglia Chesa Science classrooms Science Boarding house for boys aged 15 to 17 15 to aged boys for house Boarding Boarding house for junior boys aged 11 to 15 15 11 to aged junior boys for house Boarding Boarding house for girls aged 12 to 17 17 12 to aged girls for house Boarding

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Eton Fives works a little like Quidditch: they should not get caught trying to do so. Professor dormiens nun- two teams quam titillandus. No doubt there have been students who have wished pursue a small ball as it hurtles they could have a cloak that would make them invisible. Like the around a student who wanted to abseil from a window using an extendable dog defined space (above). lead, although he really needed something rather stronger than the leash for the little dog it was originally intended for. A secret under- The Zuoz Globe is a beautiful ground passageway, through which one could sneak unidentified into theatre at the another house, would also be most welcome – but unfortunately this school used for traditional was omitted during construction. performances of Shakespeare (below). Instead there is the Red Corridor, in which spirits of the past live on. Its walls are adorned with photographs of successful sports teams: pictures that extend back to the earliest days of the Lyceum. These include legendary images such as the group photos from the Olympic winter of 1928, when Lyceum ice hockey wizards were able to play with Swedish and other Olympic teams and pose with them. It can happen that that these photographs get swapped, as if by magic – replaced by shots of current students getting up to mischief in period style.

The Spirit of Zuoz Time passes quickly; weeks become years. The newcomers grow into young adults. They have honed their academic, creative and sporting wizardry; now they may collect their certificates and return home. They will set off back into the world with more than just pure knowledge. What they carry with them, when they board the red train again and travel through beautiful landscapes into their future, is “The Spirit of Zuoz”. This approach to life imbues students’ entire schooling and becomes second nature to them. It is a noble spirit, shaped by five key concepts: Self-Discipline, Commitment, Learning for Life, Fair Play and Cosmopolitanism.

After their departure, the Lyceum Alpinum will await the next newcomers as it continues to pursue its proud vocation, high in the mountains.

i Experience the Lyceum Alpinum Zuoz The Lyceum Alpinum opens its doors and admits visitors for public theatre performances at the Zuoz Globe.

lyceum-alpinum.ch ↾ Activities ↾ Theatre & Zuoz Globe Zuoz Alpinum Lyceum Photo:

Family ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Family 110 111 Family-friendly Adventures for all the family

Space for creativity Pontresina – Explore your creativity, give your imagination free rein, experiment with 1. 2. 3. new materials: the Creative Box Travel to unfamiliar Look for the Instead of Chocoballs offers the space and means to worlds in the books Forbidden Forest’s from Honeydukes, do all this and much more. The at the Biblioteca magical creatures try Silserkugeln studio is open to the public Engiadinaisa. in the Taiswald. (“Sils balls”) from the and well-equipped with colours, Furnaria Grond. Winter walks with a pushchair utensils and all conceivable Going for a walk is a delightful activity for all the family at any time of year – materials. Here, visitors of all including winter. Even if young children cannot manage the outing on their own two ages can playfully find new ways feet, families can still enjoy the stroll through the snowy landscape together: the to express themselves, create Engadin has plenty of winter walking paths that are suitable for pushchairs, too. art to their hearts’ content – The path across frozen Lake St. Moritz, especially, is a real highlight – and as it is flat, and perhaps even discover the requires no great effort. It is important, however, to heed directions on site about odd hidden talent. venturing on to the ice. Families who are ready to tackle more of a climb will enjoy the plattnerundplattner.ch/creative-box walk up to the frozen Lägh da Cavloc. engadin.ch/en/winter-hiking

Action on screen resorts 4. 5. 6. in the Engadin – Zuoz and Pontresina – have been Feel free as a bird, Travel on the Rhaetian Search for animal Sils – Every day at 5 pm, the 2 like Harry on his Railway and imagine tracks in the snow lights go down in the children’s awarded the “Family Destination” quality label. Parents and children alike are in especially good broomstick, high you’re on the Hogwarts and discover the cinema at the Hotel Waldhaus in Sils as the assembled kids hands here: many of the facilities and offers are up in the Serlas Express. valley’s wild side. settle down for the afternoon’s geared specifically to the needs of families. climbing hall. screening. The selected new releases and classics take the children to new worlds and into thrilling adventures – all from Thrills, fun and tricks at ski school the comfort of their cinema Learning to ski is fun – especially when it’s with the help seats. No break in the action, of a professional instructor. The ski areas of the Engadin then, following the day’s fun up on the pistes. Adults, mean- are home to a variety of ski schools. Here, youngsters can enjoy On the trail of Harry Potter in the Engadin while, can linger over a leisurely their first experiences on skis or a snowboard – or improve You do not have to travel to Hogwarts to experience something magical: the Engadin, drink at the bar, a gentle prelude their skills and learn new tricks. too, has spellbinding surprises in store. No speaking books or flying broomsticks – but to an evening’s relaxation. engadin.ch/skischool you will certainly find bewitching landscapes and enchanting villages. waldhaus-sils.ch/en/kinder

Family ENGADIN Magazine WINTER Family 113

Adventure pools The best fun and Engadin. Winter Hiking for all ages games in the snow Alongside vast quantities of Make the most of the snow and ice, the valley offers perfect play material! Stepping softly a variety of opportunities to enjoy the element of water in its warmer, fluid form. through nature. Water slides, diving boards and paddling pools delight the youngsters, while saunas, steam baths, whirlpool baths and a Making snow angels www.engadin.ch choice of massage treatments Find an area of untouched snow, promise blissful relaxation lie on your back, and move for adults. your arms and legs to create the engadin.ch/en/spa-pools wings and cloak of an angel.

Ring the changes Building snowcastles Maloja – Forwards, backwards, round and round: Who said sandpit toys are snowtubing promises a different ride down the only for playing with sand? slope every time. The inflatable ring looks like You can make magnificent something you might expect to see in a water park castles and other creations with snow, too. Playground in the snow rather than on a toboggan-style run in the snow. Trying to steer the ring is futile, but that is all part Muottas Muragl – From the of the fun – and despite the lack of control, gentle baby swing to the snowtubing isn’t dangerous at all on the specially climbing castle with hidden designated run. slide and secret passageway, engadin.ch/tobogganing the outdoor play area up on this panoramic vantage point welcomes children in winter, i Sledging thrills too, offering a delightful Even the smallest slope is venue for fun and adventures. More tobogganing fun enough to make your While the kids play in the own sledge run. No sledge? Sils toboggan run snow, adults can take a seat in Just slide down on From the Hotel Waldhaus through the snow-­ the seat of your trousers! one of the comfy wicker covered God Laret forest to the shore of Lake Sils. beach chairs, relax and soak up the rays of the winter sun. Madulain toboggan run

Photo right: Bregaglia Engadin Turismo Engadin Bregaglia right: Photo mountains.ch An hour’s walk up for a thrilling ride down. /

Ski passes for the whole family Mountains Moritz With the Family Pass, families enjoy discounted rates for ski lifts Snowball contest Who can throw a snowball throughout the region. Children under the age of 6, the farthest? Before starting, Engadin. What mountains, what lakes, what light. Free use of public transport for accompanied by an adult, ride free of charge in many places. make sure you only throw guests who stay more than one night. snow-deal.ch where there aren’t any people – Further information: Photo left: Engadin St. Engadin left: Photo or anything breakable! engadin.ch/ov-inklusive-winter

Family

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Pinboard

A gallery of ideas for wonderful winter holidays in the Engadin.

CONTENTS

116 How to reach the Engadin Travel in comfort by train or car.

118 The resorts An overview.

122 Activities Even more winter fun.

124 Culture Art and architectural highlights.

126 Restaurants From alpine delicacies to exquisite fish.

128 Shopping Hand-made gifts, useful accessories and more.

130 Accommodation From campsites to 5-star hotels.

132 Wellness A long tradition of bathing and relaxation.

134 Events Sports, music, gastronomy and more.

138 Summer preview From white to green: a magical transformation.

146 Heart of the action The Engadin in Europe.

Pinboard 116 117

SG How to reach the Engadin ZH BE LU

SWITZERLAND GR

Passengers enjoy magnificent views along the train journey. The Julier Pass stays open also in winter.

By train By car The red trains of the Rhaetian Railway follow a spectacular route Motorists can look forward to a dramatic drive to the Engadin. through the mountains on their way to the Engadin, twisting along The various pass roads – via the Ofen Pass, Julier Pass, Maloja Pass narrow valleys, slipping through countless tunnels and gliding or Bernina Pass – promise plenty of twists and turns along with across bridges and viaducts that are masterpieces of engineering. Further information superb views. Alternatively motorists can skip the pass roads by Further information The ride from Landquart (via Davos) or Chur (via Thusis) is a See travel times, stops using the car transporter rail service from the Prättigau (Selfranga) See details of current traffic and journey durations for conditions in the Engadin and info two-hour adventure to rival any journey in the world. In 2008, the the Rhaetian Railway at through the Vereina tunnel to the Engadin (Sagliains). The ride takes on car shuttle waiting times at

Albula and Bernina lines became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. engadin.ch/get-here Badrutt Andrea swiss-image.ch, left: Photo just 18 minutes; at busy times, a shuttle departs every 30 minutes. engadin.ch/get-here

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The resorts

The Chiesa Bianca in Maloja. St. Moritz at twilight.

Maloja St. Moritz Located at the Maloja Pass, border with Italian-­ The mountain resort known for its classy metropoli- speaking Switzerland, Maloja is the starting point for tan lifestyle also offers a variety of unusual sports, the Engadin Skimarathon. The ideal holiday desti­ cultural attractions and world-class events. It was here nation for Nordic skiers, nature lovers and families, that winter tourism was invented, and to this day no it has attracted many world-famous artists. other resort celebrates it in such style.

Sils Celerina Idyllically set between frozen Lake Sils and Lake The sunny village, with its typical Engadin houses Silvaplana at the entrance to the Val Fex, Sils casts a and distinctive roofless church tower of San Gian, spell on alpine skiers, snowboarders, cross-country is linked by gondola to the world-famous ski area of skiers and winter walkers alike. Ice fishing and snow­ the Corviglia. Cross-country skiers can access the kiting enthusiasts also enjoy superb conditions. Engadin’s extensive trail network direct from Celerina.

Silvaplana Pontresina Situated in the heart of the Upper Engadin lake Located at the foot of the Bernina massif, with superb plateau at the foot of the Corvatsch, Silvaplana is a views of the highest peaks of the Eastern Alps, the lively and trend-setting resort, a paradise for alpine village is a dream destination for families, nature lovers, and Nordic skiers, snowboarders and snowkiters. winter sports enthusiasts and gourmets.

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The church in Samedan dates from the 17th Century. Traditional Engadin houses in Madulain.

Samedan Madulain The capital of the Upper Engadin is a picturesque The smallest village in the Upper Engadin is a paradise town with magnificent historical Engadin houses. for cross-country skiers and winter walkers: an Special attractions include the three-storey Mineral enchanting haven for all seeking tranquillity. Baths & Spa, the stylish cross-country ski centre and the children’s ski area above the town. Zuoz With its well-preserved historical core, Zuoz is known as Bever one of the Engadin’s prettiest villages, home to a The sleepy Engadin village at the entrance to the child-friendly ski area and scenic cross-country ski trails. Val Bever offers an idyllic holiday destination for the whole family. Guests of all ages are charmed by S-chanf the pure tranquillity and the pristine natural beauty. Long ago, mule drivers would stop at this village; today, racers in the Engadin Skimarathon cross the finish La Punt Chamues-ch line here, and families enjoy the peaceful winter world. The palatial houses built by patricians long ago tell of centuries of civic pride. The village enjoys an idyllic setting by the river Inn at the foot of the More info? Albula Pass road, closed in winter to offer a wild In the guides to the municipalities or online at engadin.ch/en/resorts toboggan run.

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Even more winter activities

1 Pure adrenalin in the snowparks 4 Snowshoeing along the Lake Trail Corvatsch/Corviglia – Flips, grabs and drops: Furtschellas – The Corvatsch Lake Trail is an anyone whose heart races at the mention of the easy snowshoe trail with an extra level of 1 2 words will enjoy the Corviglia and Corvatsch comfort and convenience. As walkers follow snowparks, two giant playgrounds for skiers and the marked route, they enjoy glorious views of snowboarders who wish to hone their freestyle the snow-­covered valley and its frozen lakes – 3 4 skills. engadin.ch/crowland, corvatsch.ch with the prospect of a fortifying snack or a delicious meal at the Ustaria Rabgiusa en route. engadin.ch/snowshoeing 2 Toboggan runs in the Engadin As soon as the first snow has settled, pass roads 5 and footpaths turn into white snow trails that Yoga on Snow offer fun tobogganing. Alongside plenty of short Corviglia – Sun salutations and warrior poses rides and leisurely routes, the Engadin has six are not just for the yoga studio. Enthusiasts toboggan runs that promise high thrills – such as can also practise on snow – at the world’s first the 4.2-kilometre descent at Muottas Muragl, from yoga piste. Info panels at four locations along the funicular summit station down to the valley. the ski piste offer a unique experience of alpine engadin.ch/tobogganing relaxation. The only difference: yogis practise not on their mat but on the snow. 3 Snowkiting engadin.ch/yoga-on-snow Silvaplana/Pontresina – In winter, skiers and 6 snowboarders can enjoy the exhilarating sensation Bavarian curling of gliding across frozen lakes pulled by a kite. Precision, accuracy and natural flair: players Lake Silvaplana and the Lago Bianco, with their need them all to be good at Bavarian curling. thick layer of ice, topping of snow and consistently Popular especially in the Alps, the sport is similar strong winds, offer ideal conditions. to traditional curling, but instead of stones uses engadin.ch/snowkiting circular “ice stocks” with a stick-like handle. Several ice rinks in the Engadin offer the chance Photo 5: Nick Nussbaum Photo / Nordic skiing: across the frozen lakes to play and also hire out the necessary equip- ment. Some even provide a short introduction to By mid-winter, several centimetres of ice and a the sport for novices. engadin.ch/ice-sports smooth layer of snow cover the big Engadin lakes: perfect conditions for exploring the expansive, flat valley floor on cross-country skis. The trail across Lake Sils, Lake Silvaplana and Lake Champfèr measures 12 kilometres, and forms part More info? 5 6 of the famous Engadin Skimarathon route. Online at engadin.ch

proimagehub.ch Pitsch, 3: Lukas Photo engadin.ch/cross-country-skiing

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Selected cultural attractions

Werkstatt Hildegard Schenk exhibition explores the philosopher’s life and work. The house also provides accommodation Zuoz – The Werkstatt Hildegard Schenk along with space for work, research and is a combination of gallery, workshop and exhibitions of contemporary art. nietzschehaus.ch event space. Temporary exhibitions show the work of talented artists and craftspeople. werkstattzuoz.ch Exhibition and theme trail: Centenary of the Bernina line 1 Wald Galerie – “Home” Pontresina – The spectacular Bernina railway exhibition by Babuschkina line celebrated its centenary 10 years ago. To mark the occasion, schoolchildren created La Punt Chamues-ch – The “Forest Gallery” a theme trail that tells the fascinating story in the “God Fainchs” woods hosts landscapes of this pioneering railway. by the local photographer Miri “Babuschkina” engadin.ch/bahnlehrpfad/en Roth at ten sites among the Swiss stone pines. babuschkina.com Creative Box Upper Engadin Cultural Archives Pontresina – Artistic studio open to all who wish to explore their creativity: no limits are set to Samedan – Photographs, books, maps and imagination here! Various materials are available. paintings reveal the eventful history of this plattnerundplattner.ch/creative-box high valley. kulturarchiv.ch

Historical village centres Atelier Segantini The style of the old Engadin houses is unmistakable: Maloja – The Atelier Segantini offers an mighty walls, playfully decorated facades and insight into the life and work of the painter elegant gables. The best way to discover them is Giovanni Segantini. segantini.org on a guided walk through one of the villages. engadin.ch/village-tours Bobsleigh Museum Celerina – Ancient wooden toboggans and the legendary 5-person bobsleighs that hurtled down the icy run at the 1928 Winter Olympics in St. Moritz evoke all the thrills of high-speed winter sports. bobmuseum.ch More info? In the Engadin culture guide, Nietzsche House available from tourist information offices, 1 Sils Maria – Friedrich Nietzsche lived here during or at engadin.ch/arts-culture his time in the Engadin; a comprehensive

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Selected restaurants

1 Wohnwerkstatt 5 Longhin 1 2 S-chanf – A restoration workshop, event venue Maloja – The Longhin restaurant is known and bar in one. The regular “guest tables” feature for its chestnut specialities, all prepared

3 4 delicious fresh cuisine made with ingredients with the finest sweet chestnuts from from the region. the Longhin’s own grove in the Val Bregaglia. wohnwerkstattengadin.ch longhin.ch

2 La Marendaria 6 Conrad’s Easy Madulain – This cosy restaurant on the high Silvaplana – The day begins here with a generous pastures of Alp Es-cha Dadour is a top insider breakfast. Later, the restaurant serves a selection tip – not least for the home-made local dishes. of soups, pastas and salads; in the evening, guests Guests who wish to glide back down to the valley enjoy crispy, gourmet pizzas. after a meal can borrow a sledge here. cm-lodge.com marendaria.ch Burdun café-restaurant Photo 6: Gian Giovanoli Photo

/ Morteratsch restaurant La Punt – Founded in 1975, the Burdun serves Pontresina – Glorious views of the Bernina local specialities as well as light meals and snacks. massif and its glaciers are among the highlights At lunchtime, a mouth-watering buffet offers at the Morteratsch restaurant; guests choose an additional choice of fine flavours. 5 6 between convivial pine-furnished dining rooms restaurant-burdun.ch and the sunny terrace. Cadonau 5: Marco Photo / morteratsch.ch Dorta Zuoz – Guests at this former Engadin 3 Piste 21 restaurant & pizzeria farmhouse, with its period ambiance, feel as Co 4: Bo’s Photo

/ Samedan – Delicious cuisine at sensible prices if they are on a trip in time. in a magnificent setting. Tables on the dorta.ch panoramic terrace are especially popular during the Engadin Skimarathon.

Photo 3: Piste 21 3: Piste Photo restaurant21.ch /

4 Bo’s Co Celerina – This laid-back, lovingly decorated restaurant in the heart of Celerina serves More info? hot food throughout the day and evening. Online at engadin.ch/culinary

kind permission 1: By Photo bos-co.ch

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Selected shopping tips

Barbamax, Kessler Max La Fainera Sport & Mode S-chanf – Creative and decorative items in wood Sils Maria – This attractive sports and fashion by Max Kessler, who works almost exclusively shop offers everything for customers to look with Swiss stone pine timber from the Engadin. stylish on and off the piste – and in town, too. engadin.ch/barbamax-kessler-max/en lafainera.ch

Caferama coffee bar & shop Robbi’s Schatztruhe Zuoz – The irresistible aroma of freshly roasted Silvaplana – “Robbi’s treasure chest” is coffee hangs in the air around Zuoz. The coffee the perfect place to find a special present or roastery’s shop sells a wide variety of Cafè Badilatti a small gift to bring home. blends along with an assortment of other engadin.ch/robbis-schatztruhe/en coffee-related products.cafe-badilatti.ch Alpenstil and CK Interieur & 1 Engadiner Lehrwerkstatt Immobilien für Schreinerei: gift ideas Pontresina – Carefully selected range of Samedan – The “Engadin apprentice workshop stylish decorative objects, high-quality for joinery” offers a range of gift ideas and fashion, jewellery and individual accessories. household items such as wooden fruit bowls, alpenstil.com flower vases and pepper mills, along with customised furniture and interior fittings. Laretino fashion boutique & boots shop.lehrwerkstatt.ch Pontresina – Stylish, high-quality fashion articles that are also functional. Inspiraziun engadin.ch/fashionboutique-laretino/en Samedan – Visitors to this lovingly appointed shop find a variety of handmade gifts such as textile Nanuk Sport St. Moritz bags, jewellery and seasonally inspired decorative items. Every Friday, visitors with a creative streak St. Moritz – The appropriate equipment and can learn how to make pretty roses out of fabrics. clothing for every winter adventure, plus the widest inspiraziun.ch selection from the brands Norrøna and Patagonia in the whole of the Engadin. nanuksport.ch Heimatkunst Sils Maria – The ideal option for souvenirs and More info? postcards, small gifts and beautifully made ceramic Online at engadin.ch/shopping 1 items – plus a selection of fascinating books. and stmoritz.com/shopping

Photo: shop.lehrwerkstatt.ch Photo: engadin.ch/heimatkunst/en

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Selected accommodation

1 2 1 Waldhaus Sils Hotel Crusch Alva Sils – This member of Swiss Historic Hotels high Zuoz – Centrally located on Zuoz’s historical 3 4 above Lake Sils is an architectural, cultural and main square, the venerable Hotel Crusch Alva historical gem with its own museum. waldhaus-sils.ch has been welcoming guests from far and wide for more than 500 years. cruschalva.ch 2 Villa Flor 5 S-chanf – The beautiful and stately Villa Flor Kronenhof Pontresina was built in 1904 by a family that had emigrated, Pontresina – Listed as a monument, the Kronenhof made its fortune in Parma and returned wealthy. is the grande dame of Pontresina. All seeking Choice of seven charming rooms. villaflor.ch tranquillity will find total relaxation in the spacious spa. kronenhof.com Hotel Engadinerhof Pontresina – Guests at the Hotel Engadinerhof Hotel Nira Alpina enjoy a delightful sense of nostalgia; cosy, well- Silvaplana – With the cable car on the doorstep, the kept rooms to suit every budget. engadinerhof.com Hotel Nira Alpina makes the ideal base for winter sports enthusiasts. At the end of the day, guests relax 3 Laagers Hotel Garni in the spa area or enjoy gastronomic delicacies in 5 6 one of the two restaurants. niraalpina.com Samedan – Hotel appointed in modern style just five minutes’ walk from Samedan station. 6 Bread and pastries for breakfast come Winter camping oven-fresh from the in-house bakery. laagers.ch Pontresina – The laid-back Morteratsch campsite lies a little outside the resort, but cars with winter Hotel Schweizerhaus tyres can reach it easily even in snowy conditions. The sanitary facilities are heated, the shop is Maloja – At the charming, 125-year-old Hotel

Photo 3, 4, 6: By kind permission 3, 4, 6: By Photo open all year, and guests who do not wish to cook / Schweizerhaus, the traditional and the modern can eat in the cosy restaurant. form a stylish combination rather than a contrast. camping-morteratsch.ch schweizerhaus.swiss

4 Hotel Saluver Yllera 2: Manolo Photo / Celerina – A convenient location close to ski lifts and cross-country ski trails makes the beautiful More info? Hotel Saluver especially popular with winter sports All hotels, holiday homes, campsites enthusiasts. Its restaurant is known for its variety and Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) huts online of cuisine and especially its delicious fish dishes. at engadin.ch

1: Gian Giovanoli Photo saluver.ch

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Spas & wellness

Bellavita Pool & Spa Pontresina – While children have fun in the adventure waterpark, grown-ups relax in the attractive wellness area. pontresina-bellavita.ch

Mineral Baths & Spa Samedan – Visitors progress through a labyrinthine sequence of pools and steam rooms spread over three storeys. mineralbad-samedan.ch

MTZ Heilbad – Medical Wellness St. Moritz – The latest medical knowledge combined with the benefits of thermal spa traditions ensure all-round wellbeing. heilbad-stmoritz.ch

Ovaverva Pool & Spa St. Moritz – Hydromassage pools, saunas and spa treatments for the adults, water slides for the youngsters. ovaverva.ch

Kronenhof Spa Pontresina – The spacious spa area (more than 2,000 sq. m) offers a new dimension in relaxation and wellness. kronenhof.com

Waldhaus Spa Sils – A temple of tranquillity, in which the borders between indoors and outdoors are mysteriously blurred. waldhaus-sils.ch

1 Hammam at the Hotel Castell Zuoz – A magical taste of the orient in the wild beauty of the Engadin. hotelcastell.ch

Diavolezza hot tub Pontresina – Cool relaxation in blissfully warm water at a snowy 3,000 m, framed by dramatic mountain scenery. engadin.ch/jaccuzzi

More info? 1 Online at engadin.ch/wellness Photo: Hotel Castell Hotel Photo:

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1 2 Events

Winter — 20/21 More info? engadin.ch/en/events

4 December 10– 13 January Coppa Romana 29 November – 23 December Curling in the open air? 1 Stöckli Ski Fun Days, Silvaplana In Silvaplana, ­everything is possible. Kick off the season in style and test the latest silvaplana-curling.ch ski models from Stöckli. silvaplana.ch 15– 17 January 3 11 – 12 December 3 Out of the Blue’s Audi FIS Ski World Cup St. Moritz Two blues gigs in joiners’ workshops The world’s fastest female skiers battle plus a Sunday-morning blues service for precious World Cup points on St. Moritz’s in Samedan’s church. local mountain, the Corviglia. samedanblues.ch skiweltcup-stmoritz.ch 16 January 16 – 20 December 4 La Diagonela World Para Alpine Skiing European Cup This shorter cross-country ski race Slalom and giant slalom races for the best from Zuoz to St. Moritz offers a fine contrast para-athletes. plussport.ch to the big Engadin Skimarathon. ladiagonela.ch 28 – 30 December Sinfonia Engiadina 20 – 22 January Musicians from renowned European orchestras CfC St. Moritz gather in the Engadin to ­perform at a variety Private blockchain conference of attractive venues. sinfonia-engiadina.ch for investors. crypto-finance-conference.com

5 6 January 22 – 24 January 5 Swiss Pond Hockey January & February Championship St. Moritz natural ice rink The thrilling ice hockey contest takes Tracks for ice skating and speed skating place on frozen Lej Suot. on frozen Lake St. Moritz. pondhockey.ch natureislauf.ch 28 – 31 January 2 – 3 January 6 Engadinsnow by Dakine 2 Swiss Bobsleigh Championships The finest freeride skiers and Switzerland’s top male and female snowboarders tackle­ the legendary racers ­compete on a historic ice track. north face of the Corvatsch.

Photo 1: Stöckli Photo olympia-bobrun.ch engadinsnow.com

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29 – 31 January March 1 37. Snow Polo World Cup St. Moritz Frozen Lake St. Moritz has staged world-class 6 March polo games since 1985. snowpolo-stmoritz.com Bob Run Skating Daredevil skaters in full ice hockey kit hurtle 29 – 31 January down the twisting Olympic bobsleigh run. Engadin Art Talks olympia-bobrun.ch Artists and architects explore an original chosen theme with visitors in Zuoz. 14 March engadin-art-talks.ch 3 53nd Engadin Skimarathon and 14th Half Marathon 29 January – 06 February Switzerland’s biggest cross-country 2 St. Moritz Gourmet Festival ski race, from Maloja to S-chanf, electrifies Top chefs from throughout Switzerland enchant the whole valley. stmoritz-gourmetfestival.ch 1 2 festival guests. engadin-skimarathon.ch

19 – 21 March 3 February SunIce Festival International DJs bring hot beats onto 5 – 7 February the snow at Marguns and Salastrains. La Sfida sunicefestival.ch Mini “Tour de Ski” open to all cross-country lasfida.ch enthusiasts. 26 – 27 March 4 Freeski World Cup Corvatsch 7, 14, 21 February The world’s best freestyle skiers compete White Turf St. Moritz for glory in the Corvatsch Park. International jockeys race their horses across corvatsch.ch the snow as corks pop in the grandstand. whiteturf.ch 26 – 28 March 5 3-Summits 18 – 21 February Series of three ski mountaineering races on Nomad St. Moritz different Engadin mountains. 3-summits.ch A platform for collectors, artists and architects, which travels from Monaco to Venice. 26 – 28 March nomadstmoritz.com St. Moritz Music Summit Well-known DJs from the electronic 18 – 20 February dance music scene entrance the public. Cricket on Ice musicsummit.ch Unusual but cool and compelling: games of cricket on frozen Lake St. Moritz. 4 5 cricket-on-ice.com April

20 February 15 – 20 April Cresta Run: Grand National Swiss Freestyle Championships Athletes leap onto their toboggans, head-first The elite of the Swiss freestyle scene show and face-down, to hurtle down the twisting ice their skills on the Corvatsch, promising track at up to 138 km/h. cresta-run.com a sensational season finale. corvatsch.ch

27 February 24 – 25 April The ICE Spring Festival, Corvatsch Elegant vintage cars and historical racing cars Hot rock acts wow music fans at the stir up snow in style on frozen Lake St. Moritz. open-air stage by the Murtèl middle station. ➞ theicestmoritz.ch page 62 corvatsch.ch

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Heralds of spring: a sea of crocuses brings the first breath of colour into the blossoming valley. Preview

Summer — 21 The summer season in the Engadin starts in mid-June.

Summer comes to the Engadin

As temperatures rise, the valley awakens from its winter sleep. Migrating birds return, marmots stick their noses out of their burrows, trees free themselves from their burden of snow and stretch their branches out towards the sunshine.

The forests come to life Once the last of the snow has melted, the first buds and leaves appear. Hesitantly at first, and then the greenery appears literally to explode – and the forest invites visitors to listen to its sounds and stroll among its trees. Find out more in

Photo: Keystone, Interfoto, Bernd Ritschel Bernd Interfoto, Keystone, Photo: the summer edition.

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Large expanses with woodland of wild beauty dominate the summer landscape in the valley – as here, beside Lake Silvaplana. Photo: McPhoto, Alamy Stock Photo Stock Alamy McPhoto, Photo:

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Oasis on the water: a wooden walkway leads across the

wetland meadows on the shores Zuan Filip Tourismus, Moritz of Lake Staz, the Engadin’s best-known swimming lake. St. Photo:

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Wood in all forms: the natural material offers a tremendous variety of uses. Photo: Robert Bösch Robert Photo:

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This illustration is inspired by an old travel guide from 1931. St. Moritz lies about 200 km from Zurich Airport. The journey by road from other European cities is rather longer, but well worth the drive.

HELSINKI

OSLO STOCKHOLM

HAMBURG 814 KM 1030 KM

1593 KM 1084 KM

450 KM

AMSTERDAM BERLIN

425 KM 263 KM 181 KM 573 KM LONDON 370 KM WARSAW

170 KM BRUSSELS COLOGNE 43 LEIPZIG

KM

190 KM 382 KM 246 KM HALLE

542 KM FRANKFURT PRAGUE

328 KM

462 KM

671 KM PARIS 430 KM 518 KM STUTTGART 292 KM

87 KM BASEL MUNICH 208 KM 311 KM

124 BERN ZURICH VIENNA KM 120 KM 243 KM 159

591 KM KM CHUR GENEVA 217 KM 477 KM 84 KM Julier 149 KM BUDAPEST ST. MORITZ 191 KM

354 KM LYON INNSBRUCK

556 378 KM Maloja KM BORDEAUX 57 KM 48 KM Bernina

314 KM Chiavenna 645 KM TIRANO BELGRADE

127 KM

KM 1095 MARSEILLE MILAN 276 KM

145 KM 573 Publisher: Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG — Concept / text / editing / copy-editing & proofreading: Transhelvetica/Passaport AG, passaport.ch, KM Jon Bollmann, Pia Bollmann, Anna Herbst, Stephanie Elmer, Claudia Walder — Layout: Transhelvetica/Passaport AG, Sarina Strebel — Photographs: VENICE 507 KM Filip Zuan, filipzuan.com, @filipzuan; unless specified otherwise, made available by Engadin St.Moritz Tourismus AG and partners — GENOVA Translation: James Bedding — Gammeter Media, St. Moritz; made in Engadin — jäger & jäger, Agency BARCELONA ROME ATHENS Printer: Visual guiding concept & lead agency: for Brand Identity & Branded Content — Contact: Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG, Jan Steiner, [email protected] — Copyright: all rights reserved. Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG, www.engadin.ch; reprint of all or part of this magazine only by express permission of the tourism organisation Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG and with acknowledgement. Retail price: CHF 20

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