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Northeastern POP 902,860 / AREA 4418 SQ KM / LANGUAGE GERMAN

Why Go? Schaff hausen Canton ..270 Northeastern Switzerland is the place to tiptoe off the map Schaff hausen ...... 270 and back to nature for a few days. Here country lanes un- Rheinfall ...... 273 ravel like spools of thread, weaving through Appenzell’s ...... 274 patchwork meadows, past the fjord-like waters of Walensee and south to remote hamlets engulfed by the glacier-licked Lake Constance ...... 276 peaks of the Glarus Alps. This region calls for slow tour- Kreuzlingen ...... 277 ing: whether you’re cycling through cornfi elds and apple Rorschach ...... 277 orchards on a cloudless summer’s day, or walking through St Gallen & Appenzell Klettgau’s gold-tinged vineyards in the diff used light of Cantons ...... 278 autumn. St Gallen ...... 278 From the thunderous Rheinfall to the still waters of Lake Appenzell ...... 281 Constance, nature is on a grand scale here. Completing Around Appenzell ...... 282 the storybook tableau are castle-topped towns like Stein Säntis ...... 284 am Rhein and Schaff hausen, their facades festooned with Walensee ...... 284 frescos and oriel windows; while in graceful St Gallen, the abbey library literally catches your breath with its rococo Glarus Canton ...... 286 splendour.

Best Places to Eat When to Go » Bäumli (p280) Summer brings folksy festivals galore to the rural hinterland » Fischerzunft (p272) and open-air concerts to St Gallen and Schaff hausen. Fire- » Schlössli Worth (p273) works light up the Rheinfall and Kreuzlingen on Lake Con- stance in August. Make the most of warm-weather cycling » Burg Hohenklingen (p275) around Lake Constance and hiking in the Alps. Autumn » Segreto (p280) is toasted with new wine in Klettgau’s vineyards, while winter’s arrival brings twinkling Christmas markets to the Best Places to region’s towns and skiers to its slopes. Stay » Park Villa (p271) » Lofthotel Murg (p285) » Märchenhotel Bellevue (p286) » Schloss Wartegg (p278) 269 NORTHEASTERN SWITZERLANDNORTHEASTERN

Northeastern Switzerland Highlights 1 Slip back to the Middle St Gallen’s Stiftsbibliothek 6 Meet Daisy and co Ages exploring the half- (p278), a rococo masterpiece at Bolderhof (p275) in timbered heart of Stein am 4 Hike through the Hemishofen, where you can Rhein (p274) magnifi cent karst mountains cow trek to the 2 Feel the spray of the above Appenzell on the 7 Admire the ornate Rheinfall (p273), Europe’s Zwinglipass (p283) oriel windows (p270) in largest waterfall 5 Pedal, walk or canoe over Schaff hausen 3 Enjoy a fascinating romp to and Austria on 8 Lose the crowds and fi nd through literary history at Lake Constance (p276) remote Alpine wilderness around Piz Sardona (p285)