6 1 2 9 9 3 9 3 4 8 8 7 9 ISBN 978-84-393-9921-6

ROMANESQUE ART ROUTES R ART ROUTES omanesque

Romanesque ART ROUTES 2 3 4 Summary

6 - Catalonia, land of Romanesque art

8 - The frst European art

9 - Evolution and main characteristics

10 - Suggested routes

12 - Route 1 From La Seu d’Urgell to La Pobla de Claramunt via the Segre Valley, the La Segarra plateaus and L’Anoia

20 - Route 2 From La Val d’Aran to Lleida via Pallars and Ribagorça

32 - Route 3 From Penedès to New Catalonia via the monasteries of the Cistercian and military orders

38 - Route 4 From La Cerdanya to the Barcelona area via the Llobregat and Cardener valleys

48 - Route 5 From the Pyrenees to Barcelona via El Ripollès, Osona and Vallès

58 - Route 6 From Empordà and La Garrotxa to La Selva via Girona

69 - Romanesque art in museums

73 - Map of the Romanesque art routes

77 - Tourist information

<< TAÜLL. SANT CLIMENT < RIPOLL. SANTA MARIA Catalonia, land of Romanesque art

Catalonia is and always has been receptive to the various artistic styles that have succeeded one another in Europe. Perhaps one of the most profoundly assimilated was Romanesque art, which emerged while Catalonia’s historical personality was taking shape during the height of feudalism.

The birth and expansion of Romanesque art took place at a time when the sovereignty of the Counts of Barcelona had been recognised by the other Catalan counts. This unifcation coincided with two other major events. One was the de facto severing of all feudal ties with the French kings who had succeeded the last Carolingians; the other was the expedition to Crdoba (1010), which defnitively quashed the threat of an invasion from Al-Andalus and put the small Muslim-ruled principalities, into which the caliphate had been split up, under the protection of the Catalan counts. It was an age of prosperity and euphoria, when the great noble families were OSOR. MARE DE DÉU DEL COLL consolidating their position, the hierarchy of feudal society was being set up, gold coins were beginning to circulate and the population was growing fast.

All this was happening in Old Catalonia, which lay to the north of the traditional route to Aragon through the L’Anoia, La Segarra and L’Urgell comarques (natural regions), a line that was slowly pushed further back until the Catalan conquest of all New Catalonia was complete (1148-53). The very gradual nature of the conquest explains why Romanesque buildings are so abundant in the Pyrenean mountains and foothills, more widely scattered in the central lowlands, and few and far

6 between and from the very late Romanesque period in southern Catalonia.

In Catalonia there are some 1,900 Romanesque churches and chapels, about 200 castles, towers and fortifed houses, a few partially renovated manor houses and city mansions, some unusual buildings like the bath houses in Girona, as well as bridges, mills and other AÜLL (1123). MNAC buildings with Romanesque features.

To this architectural heritage must be added the mural paintings, antependia, sculptures, illuminated manuscripts and other objects that have been kept either in the same churches they were created for or in the major museums in Barcelona, Vic, Solsona, Girona,

La Seu d’Urgell and Lleida. Not everything inherited HAND OF GOD, SANT CLIMENT DE T by us from the Romanesque period is of equal value and interest. The same difference exists between a great monastery and a simple, small country church as between a castle or palace and a farmhouse. Some of these small buildings hold special importance, primarily as tokens of a bygone age and as elements that form part of the landscape. But there can be no doubt that Catalan Romanesque heritage as a whole ranks among the richest and most beautiful in Europe.

7 The frst European art

Romanesque art was the frst great style to be shared by the whole of Western Europe since the fall of the Roman Empire. It emerged at the end of the frst millennium, as the Carolingian Empire was breaking up and the various European nations were taking shape, and quickly swept from Dalmatia to the British Isles and from northern Germany to the Christian border with Al- Andalus, propagated by conquests, religious orders and pilgrimages. Although Romanesque art is a blend of preceding building traditions and of experiments made during the Carolingian period and at the beginning of the Holy Roman Empire, it is, nonetheless, an original and vigorous style that lasted until well into the 13th century. Its solid and sober lines are characteristic of everything built at the time (churches and monasteries, castles, country houses and bridges) and it also yielded magnifcent results in the felds of painting, sculpture, precious metalwork, tapestries, miniatures and furniture. Moreover, Romanesque art was closely bound up with the frst attempts at popular poetry, the birth of Western philosophy and theology, GIRONA. SANT PERE DE GALLIGANTS speculative theory and legal studies, and the formation and consolidation of the Romance languages, which had resulted from the breakdown of Vulgar Latin. The term “Romanesque art” was coined in 1818 by the French architect Charles de Gerville, though no systematic research on it took place until the end of the

19th century. In Catalonia the frst outline study of Catalan Romanesque art, which is still valid today, was conducted between 1909 and 1918 by a team headed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch.

8 Evolution and main characteristics

Following attempts throughout the 10th century to build churches from stone, mortar and lime and to cover the main body of the building with vaulted roofs (pre-Romanesque style), teams of Lombard master builders, and the master builders they had infuenced spread rapidly throughout Europe. This brought about the appearance of the more ambitious but still severe and utilitarian buildings of early Romanesque art, with their massive masonry structures (needed to support the barrel vault), decorated with blind arcades and Lombard bands in their semi-circular apses and on walls, with aisles separated by pillars joined together by the characteristic semi-circular arches that were also used for doorways and windows. From the end of the 11th century and throughout the 12th century, schools of stonemasons (in the traditions of Provence, Roussillon, Toulouse, Auvergne, etc.) brought sculpture into the buildings and cloisters (using motifs inspired by oriental fabrics, illuminated Bibles, bestiaries and scenes from everyday life) at the same time as the architecture became more complex using delicately carved ashlar stones (second Romanesque or full Romanesque). Though small country churches continued to be built, religious buildings of monumental proportions also began LA SEU D’URGELL. SANTA MARIA to appear with beautifully sculpted cloisters, ambulatories, lantern towers and slender bell towers, archivolts around the doorways, tympanums and columns with lavishly decorated capitals. Local architecture schools sprang up, each with a well- defned style that was ornate or austere depending on the external infuence it received, followed by others that tie in with early Gothic or French art. The 12th and 13th centuries saw Cistercian and military order architecture spread vigorously to Catalonia. In the 13th century, there was a fnal revival of the so-called School of Lleida, centred on the cathedral of Lleida, which was of great infuence in western Catalonia and introduced decoration of a Toulouse infuence.

9 SANT PERE DE RODES Suggested routes

In view of the great number of monuments and the size of this publication, we have been forced to make diffcult choices on what to include. We can only suggest a limited number of examples of Catalan Romanesque art for visitors to discover along six routes that follow the main lines of communication leading from north to south. Alternative routes are proposed so that those with the time and inclination can undertake partial excursions, skip part of the main route, or combine one route with another.

Three of the routes begin at the French border with Roussillon (a region that has historical links with Catalonia). There visitors may choose to discover the rich Romanesque heritage this region has to offer. Two other routes afford the opportunity to include the Romanesque art of Andorra, Gascony and the areas lying along the Aragonese border that were also once linked to Catalonia.

10 The route through Penedès and New Catalonia allows travellers to discover the art styles of the Cistercian order and the Knights Templar, and the area that came under the infuence of the School of Lleida.

It should be pointed out that only a few monuments have fxed visiting hours. Country churches are often closed for security reasons when no service is taking place and the keys are kept at the town hall or at a house in the village. Information on the opening hours of monuments, accommodation and restaurants, as well as help in making your journey more fulflling and enjoyable, may be obtained from any tourist information offce.

It is our hope that these suggestions may be of assistance to you in discovering the great treasures of Catalan Romanesque art.

11 ROUTE 1

AÜLL (1123). MNAC From La Seu d’Urgell to La Pobla de Claramunt v a the Segre Valley, the La Segarra plateaus and L’Ano a

e take the N-145 from the border with Andorra HAND OF THE VIRGIN, SANT CLIMENT DE T Wdown the Valira Valley and soon come to the historical buildings in Sant Serni de Tavèrnoles, which stands on the opposite bank. Slightly further on is the ancient and dynamic capital of the L’Alt Urgell comarca (natural region), La Seu d’Urgell, lying in the midst of a broad, green plain surrounded by mountains, where the Segre and Valira rivers meet. Besides visiting the cathedral of Santa Maria and the church of Sant Pere i Sant Miquel, with its magnifcent Museu Diocesà, visitors should take a stroll beneath the archways of the streets called Carrer dels Canonges and Carrer Major or under the trees on the passeig (promenade) to revel in its lively atmosphere.

12 Heading out via the Puigcerdà road, we immediately come to a mountain road leading up to Estamariu, with its church of Sant Vicenç. We then continue further up to Bescaran, from where the solitary bell tower of the now- disappeared church of Sant Martí can be seen on the opposite slope.

Returning to La Seu, the route continues down the Segre Valley along the C-14 road. The gentle scenery, characterised by the river banks’ bright, luxuriant greenery high mountains and herds of cattle, suddenly changes as the road enters the narrow Congost de Tresponts (Tresponts, or “three bridges”, Gorge). River and road wind between towering rock faces while down below one can still see the remains of the old mule track hewn out of the rocks and the bridges that have given the gorge its name.

Beyond the ravine is Organyà, nestled at the foot of the Santa Fe mountain, where, apart from the church of Santa Maria and the medieval village, you can visit a small circular building where there is a space dedicated to the famous Homilies d’Organyà (Organyà Sermons), considered to be the most ancient document written in Catalan (late 12th C), the original of which is kept in the Biblioteca de Catalunya (Library of Catalonia). ORGANYÀ Further on, near the houses in Coll de Narg that stand perched atop a mountain, there is a detour along the spectacular mountain road to Tremp. We soon come to the church of Sant Climent with its bell tower’s sloping base walls and, further on (km 26.4), we discover the track that descends to the unusual but picturesque setting of Valldarques, with the church of Sant Romà and its castle.

The C-14 continues down the Segre amid towering mountains and alongside the wide Oliana reservoir, and, as we emerge from a tunnel, the church of Castell-llebre comes immediately into view, standing on a rocky spur and accessible via a mountain track from the road to Peramola. On the opposite bank of the Segre we fnd the

13 ruined church of Oliana castle standing on high ground, 3 km from the important town of the same name. One kilometre before arriving to Ponts, the C-1412 to Tremp turns off across the river towards the nearby monastery of Gualter and goes on to La Serra de Rialb alongside the church of Palau de Rialb, a fne example of Romanesque art situated in the borough of La Baronia de Rialb, which possesses 24 tiny churches from the same period. On the outskirts of Ponts, the restored church of Sant Pere stands on a hill in a clearly visible and easily accessible spot. Our route continues towards Artesa de Segre, where we take the C-14 across fat arable land to Agramunt. In Agramunt, one can admire the splendid Romanesque doorway of the church of Santa Maria, and those with a sweet tooth can enjoy the famous torrons (nougat) and the handmade xocolata a la pedra (stone chocolate). Continuing along SANT SERNI DE TAVÈRNOLES the route and after passing the handsome wayside cross at Oss de Si, we reach a minor road to Les Pallargues which leads to the little church of Pelagalls. Beyond the great, fortifed mansions of L’Arany and Montcortés, we come to Cervera, the capital of La Segarra. Apart from the notable building of Sant Pere Gros on the outskirts, and the archpriest’s church of Santa Maria, the town has many other places of interest: the Carrer Major, the Casa de la Ciutat (Town Hall), the magnifcent neoclassical building of the former university, the town walls and the Casa Duran i LA TOSSA DE MONTBUI. SANTA MARIA Sanpere, a historic house museum. It is worth taking a short detour via the N-II towards Lleida until reaching Tàrrega, the lively capital of the

L’Urgell comarca, which boasts amongst its historical buildings the Palau dels Marquesos de la Floresta, an interesting example of Romanesque civil art. The Museu

14 LA SEU D’URGELL. SANTA MARIA

Comarcal has a space dedicated to the Jewish Quarter that used to exist in the town. Following the N-II towards Barcelona, we come to the Port de la Panadella (La Panadella Pass). A minor road to the right brings us to Santa Coloma de Queralt, a town of both historical and artistic interest and evocative backdrops, with the church of Santa Maria de Bell-lloc on the outskirts. The route continues towards the southeast on the road to Vilafranca del Penedès, climbing through mountainous country and joining the C-37 heading towards Igualada. Shortly before Santa Margarida de Montbui, an asphalted road ascends to La Tossa de Montbui, an exceptional viewing platform and vantage point looking out over the city of Igualada, capital of the L’Anoia comarca, where, to the side of the Romanesque church, the walls of the old castle of Montbui rise up. We retrace our steps on the C-37 to Vilanova del Camí and there we take a by-road that leads us to La Pobla de Claramunt. From one end of the town a paved pathway leads us to the summit on which the castle stands.

15 Main historic buildings

Agramunt. Parish church of Santa Maria (12th-13th C), with three aisles and three apses and a very handsome door, a mag- nifcent example of the School of Lleida style with archivolts richly decorated with geometric and plant motifs, rows of saints and virgins, carved capitals and high relief on the lintel (The Virgin, Annunciation and Epiphany), commissioned in 1283 by local weavers.

Bescaran. Isolated bell tower of the old parish church of Sant Martí (11th-12th C), a beautiful six-storey bell tower with Lom- AGRAMUNT. SANTA MARIA bard-style decoration and two-light win- dows. (Borough: Les Valls de Valira.)

Castell-llebre. Former parish church, now a shrine to the Mare de Déu, single nave and apse, beautiful two-storey bell tower with two-light windows. Remains of the old castle. (Borough: Peramola.)

Cervera. Interesting 11th C building on the outskirts, the church of Sant Pere Gros, one of the few with a circular design, domed roof and small external apse, once the centre of a Benedictine priory. In the town is the archpriest’s church of Santa Maria, in Gothic style but with some earlier features such as the south door that belonged to the ancient church of Sant Martí (tympa- num showing the saint giving part of his cape to a poor man). To the extreme south- CERVERA. SANT PERE GROS west of the hill lie the ever-imposing con- solidated ruins of the Castell de Cervera. with a magnifcent round tower, the only one in the comarca. Coll de Narg. Former parish church of Sant Climent (10th-11th C), with a single Estamariu. Former parish church of Sant nave and apse from the Lombard period, Vicenç (11th C), originally on a basilical adjacent to an exceptionally fne pre-Ro- plan, two of the Lombard-style apses manesque bell tower with sloping walls remain. The central apse conserves paint- at the base and windows with horseshoe ings from the 12th C, discovered in 1993, arches (top storey dates from the 11th C). and in the small south apse is a mural Within the same municipal boundaries, from the Gothic period. the church of Sant Romà de Valldarques (12th C), with a single nave and apse, a Gualter. Former Benedictine monastery fne bell tower with Lombard-style dec- of Santa Maria (12th-13th C), with the oration and rounded, two-light windows ruined church with three aisles that was with the remains of painted murals on blown up in 1939 during the Spanish Civil arcatures on the bell tower. In the same val- War. Parts of the walls and arches of the ley, the castle of Valldarques (11th-12th C), church and part of the cloister remain, con-

16 COLL DE NARGÓ. SANT CLIMENT solidated or rebuilt. It is still undergoing Palau de Rialb. Parish church of Santa restoration and defnitive consolidation. Maria (11th C), with three aisles and an (Borough: La Baronia de Rialb.) apse with characteristic Lombard-style decoration. (Borough: La Baronia de Oliana. Former chapel of Sant Andreu Rialb.) belonging to the Castell d’Oliana, later the parish church (11th C, enlarged in the Pelagalls. Parish church of Sant Esteve 12th C), with a single nave and apse and (consecrated in 1180), with a single nave, characteristic Lombard-style elements. modified, with a remarkable door, with archivolts and decorated capitals (plant Organyà. Former priory and collegiate and animal motifs) and an earlier tympa- church of Santa Maria (late 11th C), with num with Christ in Majesty on the Cross many alterations, three aisles (only the and two angels. (Borough: Els Plans de central Romanesque apse is conserved), Si.) square bell tower and impressive door on the western façade with archivolts deco- La Pobla de Claramunt. On a hill over- rated with small balls (13th C). looking the town stands the Castell de

17 Claramunt. Large jussà (lower bailey) from lantern tower and two-light windows (con- the Romanesque period, with open tow- siderably restored). ers, and sobirà (upper bailey) of a more residential nature, from the 13th-14th C. Sant Serni de Tavèrnoles. Former Ben- Between the two baileys lie the consoli- edictine abbey, subsequently the parish dated ruins of the church of Santa Maria church of Anserall (church consecrated in del Castell (11th C), with three aisles and 1040). One of the most important build- Lombard-style decoration. A woodcarving ings of the Catalan Romanesque period. of Mare de Déu de la Llet (Nursing Virgin) The large west-facing chevet survives with from the church is conserved in the La the main apse opening into three smaller Pobla parish church. apses (the middle one is trefoil-plan inside), as well as a transept with an apse Ponts. Church of the former Augustinian at either end. The three aisles have not canonry of Sant Pere (12th C), a build- survived. The bell tower is truncated and ing with a single nave and three cross- has a circular base. Its interior conserves shaped apses decorated on the outside remains of fgurative wall decoration in in Lombard style, an octagonal two-storey stucco. The antependium, baldachin and capitals from the cloister are conserved at the MNAC. (Borough: Les Valls de Valira.)

Santa Coloma de Queralt. Church of the former Mercedarian convent of Santa Maria de Bell-lloc (13th C) outside the town: Romanesque-Gothic transition style, with a fne doorway in the style of the School of Lleida with archivolts, col- umns and decorated capitals, and a tym- panum with Marian themes. Important Gothic tomb inside.

La Seu d’Urgell. A city that grew around a key medieval Episcopal See (Diocese of L’Urgell); the magnifcent cathedral of Santa Maria presides over the old town, built in the 12th C that replaced two ear- lier cathedrals and constitutes the most SANT SERNI DE TAVÈRNOLES outstanding example of Italian-style Romanesque architecture in Catalonia (the master builder in 1175, Ramon Llom- bard, was of Italian origin); basilical plan with three aisles and a very long transept with fve apses (four embedded into the wall with the central one projecting out to the exterior with an elegant external upper gallery); three doors on the west side, one each on the north and south sides; two octagonal towers fank the façade, which is adorned with arcatures and decorative borders and has two lions over the main door; two unfnished towers at either end of the transept; decorated windows, rose window, graceful square bell tower above the façade; well-restored cloister with a Romanesque gallery on three sides, and capitals showing the infuence of Roussil- SANTA COLOMA DE QUERALT. SANTA MARIA DE BELL-LLOC lon sculptors; polychrome wooden statue

18 PONTS. SANT PERE

(13th C) of the Mare de Déu d’Andorra (Virgin of Andorra). Adjoining the cloister is the church of Sant Pere i Sant Miquel (11th C), the remains of the cathedral complex that was built by Saint Ermen- gol, with a single nave, transept and three apses with Lombard-style decoration. Outstanding Museu Diocesà within the precinct’s buildings.

Tàrrega. The Palau dels Marquesos de la Floresta, whose façade (13th C) is a fne example of late Romanesque civil archi- tecture in the style of the Paeria in Lleida.

La Tossa de Montbui. The church of Santa Maria is an interesting early medie- val construction, built as a parish church alongside the fortifed tower of the castle (10th C), unique in Catalonia for its antiq- uity and dimensions. The church (early 11th C) has three aisles separated by low cylindrical pillars, plain capitals and arches supporting the barrel vault, and is crowned by three semi-circular apses with characteristic Lombard features. (Borough: Santa Margarida de Montbui.) BEATUS DE LA SEU D’URGELL (MDU)

19 HAND OF THE VIRGIN, ANTEPENDIUM, AVIÀ (BERGUEDÀ, CIRCA 1200). MNAC N impressive Pyrenean Romanesque buildingsinthe where there isagroup ofwhatare possibly themost left whichrunsfor25kmor sothrough LaVall deBoí with aninteresting church modern –isaroad tothe A littlebefore ElPontdeSuert–animportanttown Noguera Ribagorçanariverthrough L’Alta Ribagorça. via theVielha Tunnel andfollowsthecourseof One ofthesuggestedroutes leavesLaVal d’Aran church ofBossst,closetotheFrench border. church ofVielha. Andevenfurtherdownriverthere isthe doorway andtheoutstandingfeatures oftheparish Further onliesthechurch ofEscunhau,withitsunusual spectacular backdrop oftheMontardo d’Aran. we cometoSantaMariad’Artiessetagainstthe glaciers ofMountAneto.Proceeding downtheGaronne, which overlooksthegreen valleyasfarthedistant the parishofSalard andthenearbyhamletofUnha, Beret andLaBonaiguaitisnecessarytopassthrough shrine ofCapd’AraninTreds atthefootofPlan de P to L F ROUTE 2 20 rom L allars andR monuments ofLaVal d’Aran.Onthewayfrom the o visitorshouldmissthekeyRomanesque le da v le a V al d’A a bagorça ran whole of Catalonia, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (in 2000). In a high mountain landscape, very close to the Parc Nacional d’Aigestortes (National Park of Aigestortes) and the Estany de Sant Maurici (Sant Maurici Lake), the churches of Cll, Cardet, Barruera, Durro, Erill la Vall, Boí and the two in Tall, with slender bell towers and harmonious architecture, blend into a beautifully picturesque natural setting. At El Pont de Suert we leave the N-230 and the Ribagorçana to follow the N-260 towards La Pobla de Segur via the Coll de Perves (Perves Pass), a tricky and somewhat nail-biting route with constant bends that wind between plunging ravines and open mountain, presenting panoramic views and quaint villages. At Senterada, just before La Pobla de Segur, one can turn left into the beautiful valley of Vall Fosca (headwaters of the Flamicell and the lakes of Estany Gento), where the small churches of Capdella, Espui and Sant Martí de la Torre nestle amongst the gentle, lush green of the river banks that is a welcome relief from the rough mountain slopes. Another possible route from Aran to La Pobla de Segur is by the C-28, which goes over the Port de la Bonaigua (Bonaigua Pass) and descends down in a spectacular series of bends to Esterri d’Àneu in a part of the Noguera Pallaresa BORÉN. ALT ÀNEU Valley known as La vall d’Àneu. From here we take a short road up river to two outstanding buildings: Sant Joan d’Isil, standing right on the river bank and, slightly farther north, the parish church of Sant Lliser in the little village of Als d’Isil. From Esterri, following the Escalarre road and taking a slight detour, we come to the shrine of Santa Maria d’Àneu and, further down the Noguera Pallaresa on the C-13 and past the Torrassa and Guingueta reservoirs, on the left-hand side of the river on high ground opposite Escal, there is the interesting monastery of Sant Pere del Burgal, which can be easily reached by crossing a small bridge. From Llavorsí a visit to the two neighbouring valleys is highly recommended. One, the Vall Ferrera, is rich in iron

21 outcrops and possesses numerous pre-Romanesque and Romanesque buildings that are scattered throughout the borough of Alins, which stretches as far as Catalonia’s highest peak, the Pica d’Estat. In the Vall de Cards, which is greener with more open countryside, the majestic bell tower of Ribera de Cards rises high amid mountain peaks and lakes in the silver birch-clad Plans de Boavi (Boavi Plains). Returning to the Noguera Pallaresa, we travel downriver through Sort, the tourist resort and capital of Pallars Sobirà, until we fnd ourselves below the shrine of Arbol, made from reddish stone and perched above the left bank of the river. A little further on, opposite the picturesque town of Gerri de la Sal, whose old salt works can still be seen, is the splendid building that was once the monastery of Santa Maria. After the impressive and rugged Estret de Collegats (Collegats Gorge), travelling between vertical limestone walls past the attractive L’Argenteria rock, we reach La Pobla de Segur, where we join the other route from Aran through L’Alta Ribagorça. The high mountains are now far behind and before us is the vast sun-drenched Conca de Tremp Valley, whilst the Noguera Pallaresa runs into the large lake that forms the Sant Antoni and Talarn reservoirs. From Tremp, the ABELLA DE LA CONCA capital of Pallars Jussà, we take the C-1412 to Ponts via Isona to visit the interesting churches of Abella de la Conca, nestling beneath a great rock, and of Covet, with its very handsome doorway, and the castle of Llordà. Leaving Tremp by the south on the C-13, the road runs alongside the Terradets reservoir. At the head of the lake, we can take an asphalted road through Guàrdia de Noguera to the castle and collegiate church of Mur. Before passing through the Congost de Terradets (Terradets Gorge), a local road that crosses the reservoir via a bridge leads to the village of Llimiana, which sits atop a rocky crest, with its little-known church of Santa Maria. Returning to the C-13 and passing the long and spectacular Congost de Terradets ravine carved out by

22 RIBERA DE CARDÓS. SANTA MARIA the river through the Montsec range, Vall d’Àger begins. Immediately, in a beautiful setting, we see the church and castle of La Baronia de Sant Oïsme, refected in the waters of the Camarasa reservoir. From here, making a short detour back, we can continue on the C-12, crossing the river towards the picturesque town of Àger, with its ancient collegiate church of Sant Pere, and, after admiring the magnifcent view from the Port d’Àger (Àger Pass), we continue down to the ancient abbey of Bellpuig de les Avellanes and from there to Balaguer on the banks of the Segre. As well as the Romanesque church of Santa Maria de les Franqueses, Balaguer, the capital of La Noguera and former capital of the county of L’Urgell (12th-15th C), has other monuments and buildings of interest on its outskirts and an exceptional Plaça Major. From here one can also take the Doll road as far as Camarasa to see the church of Sant Miquel and the remains of its castle overlooking the town and the gorge of the valley. The roads from Balaguer to Lleida run in almost straight lines on either side of the quiet waters of the Segre. The mountains have faded into the distance and the landscape is fat, with cornfelds and orchards. Twenty- eight kilometres further on, we reach Lleida, the capital of El Segrià and of western Catalonia, which presents fne examples of late Romanesque art in La Seu Vella, the churches of Sant Martí, Sant Llorenç and Santa Maria de Gardeny, and also the opportunity to visit the Museu de Lleida Diocesà i Comarcal.

23 Main historic buildings

Abella de la Conca. Former parish church of Sant Esteve, perched atop the village. A fne building with three aisles, three apses and a two-storey bell tower with two-light windows, all with Lombard-style decoration.

Àger. Former capital of the Viscounty of Àger. Consolidated ruins of the for- mer collegiate church of Sant Pere, with three aisles and a crypt, also with three aisles (11th C) and three apses; only the central one projects out to the exterior, with niches inside with half columns and ALÓS D’ISIL. SANT LLISER carved capitals. Mural paintings at the MNAC. There are also signifcant remains of the cloister, in Gothic style, and some remains of the castle and the walls that surrounded the monastery and town.

Alins. Typical Pyrenean village, centre of Vall Ferrera, where many small Roman- esque churches are located, including Santa Maria de la Torre and Força d’Àreu, and the remains of the pre-Romanesque church of Sant Francesc d’Aras. Roman- esque wooden statue of the Virgin in Àreu parish church.

Als d’Isil (or Als de Gil). Parish church of Sant Lliser, modifed, with an interest- ing doorway with three decorated archi- volts, chess-band frieze, columns and ARTIES capitals with heads of humans and ani- mals; also two very ancient low reliefs on either side, believed to represent Adam and Eve before and after the Fall. (Bor- ough: Alt Àneu.)

Arbol. Shrine of the Mare de Déu (mid- 12th C), in reddish-coloured stone, with a single nave and apse with arcatures and a small, square bell tower above the nave. (Borough: Soriguera).

Arties. Parish church of Santa Maria (12th C), on a basilical plan with three aisles and three apses (the centre one is half- carved), north door with six ornate archi- volts; friezes of blind arcades; Gothic bell tower. Rich liturgical furnishings in the interior. (Borough: Naut Aran.) BARRUERA. SANT FELIU

24 ÀGER. SANT PERE

Balaguer. On the outskirts of the city Bellpuig de les Avellanes. Former abbey stands Santa Maria de les Franqueses, the of Premonstratensian canons (Santa church of the former monastery of Cister- Maria), now a seminary of the Marist cian nuns, built on a Latin cross plan, apse, brothers. The remains of the Romanesque doorway in Romanesque-Gothic transition cloister with paired columns and very style (12th-13th C). Remains of the cloister. soberly ornamented capitals date back to its foundation (12th-13th C). Magnifcent La Baronia de Sant Oïsme. Church of Gothic church. Pantheon of the Counts Sant Bartomeu with a single nave, three of L’Urgell. Part of the building has been small cross-shaped apses and a small converted into a restaurant and hotel. bell tower above, near the old castle of (Borough: Os de Balaguer.) Sant Oïsme with a magnificent round tower. (Borough: Camarasa.) Boí. Parish church of Sant Joan in the lit- tle village from which La Vall de Boí takes Barruera. Parish church of Sant Feliu, with its name. A church with a basilica-shaped a single nave, apse with Lombard-style structure that has been greatly reformed. decoration, doorway with mouldings on The chevet only conserves the small orig- the intrados, with a porch and square bell inal north apse. Lombard-type square tower. (Borough: La Vall de Boí.) bell tower; inside, reproductions of mural

25 SANT JOAN DE BOÍ. LAPIDACIÓ DE SANT ESTEVE paintings now at the MNAC, with scenes remain and the chevet, with interesting of the stoning of Saint Stephen and min- capitals (others are at the MNAC). strels, amongst others. (Catalan Roman- esque of La Vall de Boí.) Cap d’Aran. Shrine of Era Mare de Diu, now the parish church of Treds, built in Bossst. Parish church of Era Mair de the 11th-12th C, with later modifcations. Diu dera Purifcacion (12th C), the best On a basilical plan with three aisles, three example of Romanesque architecture apses with Lombard-style ornamentation, in La Val d’Aran: on a basilical plan with a small crypt, door with archivolts and three aisles separated by wall ribs resting columns with carved capitals and a Chris- on circular pillars; three apses with Lom- mon over the keystone. Separate bell bard-style decoration; two impressive tower, with a Romanesque base. Mural doors, especially the north door, recessed paintings from the church (11th-12th C) in three orders, columns and carved cap- are now at The Cloisters Museum in New itals with a chess-band design and a York and the Museu Maricel in Sitges, and beautiful tympanum with a very old Christ in other collections. (Borough: Naut Aran.) in Majesty on the Cross and the symbols of the Evangelists; solid four-storey bell Cardet. Church of Santa Maria, with a tower with a pyramid-shaped roof. single nave, transverse arches on half col- umns and a two-storey apse with a crypt Capdella. Historical centre of the Vall and Lombard-style decoration (12th C); Fosca or Vall de Capdella, with the parish little-chair bell tower. (Catalan Roman- church of Sant Vicenç, with a single nave, esque of La Vall de Boí.) square bell tower and Lombard-style apse; a wooden statue of Christ (12th C) Cll. Parish church of Santa Maria, with a from here is conserved at the MNAC. In single nave, wall with arcatures, doorway the same valley stands the church of Sant with archivolts (12th C) with chess-band Martí de la Torre, with a single nave and frieze, low relief with a Chrismon, iron ft- small apse, and the church of Sant Julià tings on door and a bell tower. (Catalan d’Espui that has been modifed. (Borough: Romanesque of La Vall de Boí.) La Torre de Cabdella.) Covet. Parish church and former canon- Camarasa. Remains of the old castle and ical monastery of Santa Maria (12th C), the original parish church of Sant Miquel on a Latin cross plan with three apses, on a hilltop overlooking the town, built in an inner gallery behind the rose win- the Romanesque-Gothic transition style dow on the façade, and a very beautiful (12th-13th C) of which only a few walls sculpted doorway, one of the most original

26 COVET. SANTA MARIA

of Catalan Romanesque art, revealing a Toulousain infuence with fgures in relief (showing the fall of the angels, scenes from the Old and New Testaments, acro- bats, etc.) and a tympanum depicting Christ and the Evangelists. (Borough: lsona i Conca Dellà.)

Durro. Parish church of La Nativitat de la Mare de Déu (12th C), with a single nave, side porch with arcades, doorway with archivolts on double columns, a bolt and lock plate on the door and a square Lom- bard-type bell tower, more substantial than others in La Vall de Boí. The chevet was originally Romanesque but has been completely altered. Notable collection of liturgical furnishings inside. Above the vil- lage stands the chapel of Sant Quirc (12th C). (Catalan Romanesque of La Vall de Boí.)

Erill la Vall. Parish church of Santa Eulàlia (11th-12th C), extensively restored, with a single nave, semi-circular apse and small apses forming a crossing, porch with ERILL LA VALL. SANTA EULÀLIA arcades resting on columns, a magnifcent

27 ESCUNHAU. SANT PÈIR GERRI DE LA SAL. SANTA MARIA six-storey Lombard-type bell tower with La Seu Vella (the frst cathedral), standing two-light windows. The famous set of on the La Suda promontory, a magnifcent wood carvings from the church, the example of Romanesque-Gothic transi- Descent from the Cross, are now shared tion style, built by Pere Sacoma (1203- between the MNAC and the MEV, with a 1278) on a basilical plan with three aisles, reproduction now standing on a beam a broad transept with a lantern tower over above the altar. (Catalan Romanesque of the crossing and fve apses at the east- La Vall de Boí.) ern end; the two doors, Porta dels Fillols and Porta de l’Anunciata, are fne exam- Escunhau. Parish church of Sant Pèir, ples of the work of the School of Lleida, altered but conserving its very beautiful with archivolts and capitals carved in the door (12th C), with two archivolts, two Toulousain tradition (Biblical and profane columns with carved bases and capitals scenes); the cloister is fully Gothic. On (small heads and geometric designs), its northern side are the buildings of the a tympanum with a very crude fgure of Canonja (The Canonry) (12th-13th C). Christ and a frieze over the arcade with Church of Sant Llorenç (13th C), enlarged a Chrismon and other designs and chess in the Gothic period, and the church of bands; inside there are Romanesque fonts Sant Martí, (13th C), with interesting sculp- with carved decoration. Escunhau Christ tural elements and a highly elaborate door (13th C), in the Musèu dera Val d’Aran. from El Tormillo (Osca). Church of Santa (Borough: Vielha e Mijaran.) Maria de Gardeny, built in a very austere Gerri de la Sal. Former Benedictine Cistercian style (13th C), formerly part of monastery of Santa Maria. Its church still an important and ancient community of stands, consecrated in 1149, of immense the Knights Templar (later of the Knights proportions, with three aisles separated Hospitallers). Next to this is the fortifed by massive pillars, three apses with Lom- tower of the Templar castle, in an area bard-style decoration, door with an archi- that has now been converted into a uni- volt and sculpted capitals protected by versity campus. La Paeria (13th C) or Casa a three-body galilee, and a three-storey de la Ciutat (City Hall), an interesting exam- bell gable above the middle of the façade. ple of Romanesque civil architecture. The Baroque sacristy and chapter house. Museu de Lleida Diocesà i Comarcal con- tains highly noteworthy pieces. Lleida. Capital of Western Catalonia, Lleida was already an important city in Llimiana. The parish church of Santa Al-Andalus (conquered in 1149). Fore- Maria (11th C) stands on the edge of a most among its Romanesque buildings is plateau surrounded by the town that sits

28 LLEIDA. SEU VELLA

atop an abrupt cliff. This church is of large dimensions and grand architectural ambi- tion, on a basilical plan with three aisles crowned by three imposing apses on two tiers, permitting a crypt to be housed here.

Llordà. Castle and domestic palace that once belonged to the nobleman Arnau Mir de Tost (11th C), on a hill dominating the Conca Dellà, it is a magnifcent example of residential Romanesque architecture built for the nobility. Large residential for- tifed tower with two-light windows and an exterior compound. Alongside this stand, the ruins of the former canonry of Sant Sadurní de Llordà. (11th C). (Borough: lsona i Conca Dellà.) LLEIDA. SEU VELLA Mur. Former Augustinian canonry of Santa Maria (11th-12th C), a church on a basili- cal plan with three aisles and three Lom- bard-type apses (the northern apse no longer exists). Many of the mural paintings are in Boston and at the MNAC, and some are in situ. Reproduction of the mural paintings of the main apse. Cloister with crude capitals. On a nearby crag stands the Castell de Mur (11th C), a masterpiece of Catalan Romanesque civil architecture. (Borough: Castell de Mur.)

Ribera de Cards. Parish church of Santa Maria (12th C, altered), ornamented door- way and rose window, solid three-storey bell tower with Lombard-style decoration. MUR (Borough: Vall de Cards.)

29 humans and animals, door with decorated archivolts and stylised capitals; low reliefs (damaged) in the upper frieze of Adam and Eve before and after the Fall, similar to those at Als d’Isil. (Borough: Alt Àneu.)

Sant Pere del Burgal. Former Benedic- tine monastery. Important consolidated ruins of the 11th C church, with three apses on the east side and one on the west; notable mural paintings attributed to the Master of Pedret from here are now conserved at the MNAC (reproductions in situ), with saints and prophets, where, for the frst time, the fgure of the donator appears (Lucia comitessa, Countess of Pallars Sobirà at the end of the 11th C). (Borough: La Guingueta d’Àneu.)

Santa Maria d’Àneu. Main shrine of Marian worship in La Vall d’Àneu. 11th C church, modifed, apse with Lombard-style dec- oration; important polychrome mural paintings from here are now housed at the MNAC, with the famous angels or ser- aphs (reproductions in situ). (Borough: La Guingueta d’Àneu.)

Tall. In this village are two of the most beautiful examples of the famous Vall de Boí Romanesque churches: Sant Climent and Santa Maria, declared a World Herit- age Site by UNESCO (2000) together with the other Romanesque churches of La Vall de Boí, consecrated on successive days in 1123. Sant Climent, on the outskirts, SANT PERE DEL BURGAL is a magnifcent church with three aisles separated by columns, three apses with Salard. Parish church of Sant Andrèu arcatures and Lombard bands, a slen- (13th C), in Romanesque-Gothic transi- der six-storey square bell tower separate tion style, on a basilical plan with three from the building, also with Lombard dec- aisles, three apses, door with fve archi- oration, and two-light windows; the mural volts revealing a School of Lleida and Cis- paintings from the chevet, conserved in tercian infuence; rib vaults in the central the MNAC, are some of the fnest exam- nave; a magnifcent wooden Romanesque ples of the genre for their power of expres- statue (12th C) is conserved of the Christ sion, purity of line and rich polychromy of Salard, with a beard, tunic and both (Christ in Majesty, saints and apostles, feet pierced with two nails. Notable late- scenes from the Old and New Testaments Gothic mural paintings. Octagonal Gothic and the Apocalypse). Inside the church, bell tower. (Borough: Naut Aran.) spectacular video mapping projects the paintings onto their original location and Sant Joan d’lsil. Former parish church explains how they were created drawing with three aisles and three apses information from the deep layers of paint (11th-12th C), standing right on the bank that still remain in situ. Santa Maria has of the Noguera Pallaresa. Lombard-style the same structure, with a beautiful bell decoration also on walls above the heads of tower attached to the church; the mural

30 ISIL. SANT JOAN paintings, which are also at the MNAC, are presided over by the Virgin and Child. The remains of the church of Sant Martí and the chapel of Sant Quirze are Roman- esque. (Borough: La Vall de Boí.)

Unha. Parish church of Santa Eulària (12th C), with three aisles and three apses; Lombard-style decoration similar to that of Sant Climent in Tall. Roman- esque mural paintings (mid-12th C in the apse), in Gothic and Renaissance style. (Borough: Naut Aran.)

Vielha. Parish church of Sant Miquèu, in Gothic style but with elements of the original Romanesque-Gothic transition building (12th-13th C); beautiful baptis- mal font with low relief and the famous Christ of Mijaran (12th C), a magnifcent life-size wooden bust that formed part of a Descent from the Cross set of carvings like that at Erill la Vall, which came from the church and former monastery of Santa Maria de Mijaran; the ruins of this building (early 12th C), which was once the politi- cal centre of La Val d’Aran (here the gov- ernors of the Valley swore to respect the privileges) are to the north of the village, consolidated and incorporated into a modern building. (Borough: Vielha e Mija- ran.)

SALARDÚ. CRIST DE S.

31 ROUTE 3 AÜLL (1123). MNAC

From Penedes to New A MARIA DE T

Catalon a v a the TH, SANT monaster es of the C sterc an and HAND OF GOLIA m l tary orders

rom Barcelona we take the N-340 to the Port de l’Ordal F(Ordal Pass) and on to the winegrowing comarca (natural region) of L’Alt Penedès, taking a minor road to Lavern that brings us to Sant Sebastià dels Gorgs. From Vilafranca del Penedès, the capital of the comarca with beautiful Gothic buildings and the Museu de les Cultures del Vi (Wine Museum), we can pay interesting visits to the church of Sant Cugat in Moja, the castle and church of Sant Martí Sarroca, which has one of the most beautiful apses in Catalonia, the ancient site and archaeological remains at Olèrdola, where one can enjoy a spellbinding panoramic view, and fnally the chapel of El Sant Sepulcre.

Following the N-340 southwards, we come to a minor road from L’Arboç to the ancient priory of Banyeres del Penedès. Further on, a left turning from Bellvei goes to the town of Calafell, whose houses cluster around the hilltop castle and the church of la Santa Creu, overlooking the coastline and the nearby seaside resort and harbour. From El Vendrell, the capital of El Baix Penedès, the route runs along the Costa Daurada to Tarragona, formerly Tàrraco, the capital of Hispania Citerior, which has preserved interesting monuments from its Roman past as well as examples of Romanesque art, foremost among them the cathedral. An excursion can also be made to the ancient monastery of Escornalbou (some 25 km to the west), which affords fne views over the region of Tarragona.

A minor road (through Nulles and Bràfm) leads from Tarragona to the great Cistercian monastery of Santes

32 Creus, which has several fne Romanesque features. We continue along the course of the Gaia towards El Pont d’Armentera, where we take a minor road to El Pla de Santa Maria with its remarkable church. Beyond the Coll de Cabra (Cabra Pass) to the north, we cross into La Conca de Barberà. Montblanc, the picturesque capital of the comarca, is still encircled by its imposing walls and offers several little-known yet noteworthy monuments. Our route takes us through neighbouring L’Espluga de Francolí on the way to the Cistercian monastery of Poblet, which no visitor should miss since it is one of the most important historic buildings in Catalonia and a leading religious and cultural centre. The last stop on the Cistercian route is Vallbona de les Monges, a monastery of nuns which is an interesting and particularly attractive example of Romanesque-Gothic transition style architecture (located some 25 km north along the C-14).

Continuing on our way from Poblet, we leave the vineyards and dryland crops behind and climb up in to the Prades mountains. The walled village of Prades, with its red-hued stone, is very picturesque. Further on, a left turning from Cornudella takes us to Siurana, a village of great character with a very beautiful church perched on the edge of sheer cliffs with spectacular views over the reservoir and river of the CALAFELL same name. Our route now crosses into El Priorat, where the vines grow over slate rock. Beyond Poboleda one can see the consolidated ruins of the former Carthusian monastery of Escaladei, at the foot of the Montsant.

The beauty of the countryside is ample compensation for the long drive via Falset and Mra d’Ebre required to reach three more key Romanesque monuments: the castle of the Knights Templar at Miravet, overlooking the Ebro; Gandesa, the capital of La Terra Alta, with its splendid church doorway; and in El Montsià, at the southernmost tip of Catalonia, the ancient castle of the Knights Hospitallers and adjoining church of Els Àngels in Ulldecona.

33 Main historic buildings

Banyeres del Penedès. Shrine and for- mer Benedictine priory of Santa Maria, with two aisles and two apses. Calafell. The highly interesting church of Santa Creu (11th C) in the precinct of the old castle, with one aisle and one apse with Lombard-style decoration; a crypt and another aisle were added later; mural paintings (12th C). Escaladei. Former Carthusian monastery of Santa Maria, the frst to be founded on the Iberian Peninsula; ruins of the old monastic church (13th C) but mainly of ESCORNALBOU. SANT MIQUEL later Renaissance and Baroque construc- tions. The buildings have been consoli- dated and a monastery cell and the small cloister have been rebuilt, and the refec- tory, chapter house, a building for the laity and the church have been roofed. (Bor- ough: La Morera de Montsant.) Escornalbou. Former Augustinian can- onry (Franciscan convent from 1580) of Sant Miquel, restored in 1910 by E. Toda; church (12th-13th C) with a beautiful door- way and large rose window and a cloister commanding splendid views over the Tar- ragona region. (Borough: Riudecanyes.)

Gandesa. Parish church of L’Assump- ci (renovated in 17th-18th C), conserv- ing a very fne School of Lleida doorway with archivolts and columns with capitals SANT MARTÍ SARROCA. CASTLE with plant motifs, geometric patterns and human fgures. Miravet. An imposing fortress above the Ebre, the centre of a powerful community of the military order of the Knights Tem- plar, a fne example of military architecture over the 12th to 13th centuries; precinct with massive walls and towers; monks’ refectory and other monastic buildings. Within the fortified tower of the upper precinct is the church of Santa Maria and large rooms with vaulting beneath.

Moja. Former parish church of Sant Cugat (now Sant Jaume), with a single nave and transept, Lombard-style decoration in the apse and a bell tower above the nave. (Borough: Olèrdola.) Beside this stands the circular tower of Moja (10th C). GANDESA. L’ASSUMPCIÓ

34 MIRAVET

Montblanc. Church of Sant Miquel, Gothic and the Pla dels Albats. The Mas del Sant style but with a very austere Romanesque Sepulcre (within the municipal bounda- façade, door with a semi-circular arch and ries) is an important round chapel with capitals (12th C), remains of the former mural paintings. Private property. church. El Pla de Santa Maria. Old parish church Olèrdola. Church of Sant Miquel and early of Santa Maria (now Sant Ramon) (for- medieval citadel built over an ancient Ibe- merly Pla de Cabra), from the 13th C, one rian and Roman settlement, with spec- of the fnest examples in the comarca of tacular walls. Church with a single nave, L’Alt Camp, with a single nave, broad tran- quadrangular apse and other pre-Roman- sept, octagonal lantern, fne stonework, a esque elements (10th-11th C) and a door magnifcent doorway with eight archivolts and lantern tower from the 12th C or later. and a decorated lintel and tympanum. Adjoining the north-east side is the chevet of an earlier pre-Romanesque chapel or Poblet. Cistercian monastery where church (10th C) with a horseshoe arch. monastic life has been resumed, a religious So-called Olerdolà-type anthropomor- and cultural centre with the pantheon of phic graves in the rock, near the Church the kings and queens of Catalonia and

35 this same period are the octagonal pavil- ion in the large Gothic cloister, the monks’ dormitory and the ancient chapel of La Trinitat. (Borough: Aiguamrcia.)

Siurana. Church of Santa Maria (12th C), single nave and unadorned apse, bell tower and doorway with three archivolts and crude figures of Christ and saints sculpted in low relief in the tympanum. (Borough: Cornudella.)

Tarragona Important city in Roman times (capital of Hispania Citerior) and current seat of the metropolitan Archdiocese of Catalonia, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (2000). Cathedral in Roman- TARRAGONA. CATHEDRAL esque-Gothic transition style but with elements of earlier Roman constructions Aragon. Some Gothic buildings, but most and fne examples of 12th-13th C Roman- are of Cistercian architecture in Roman- esque art (apse, side doors on the façade, esque-Gothic transition style (12th-13th a very fne cloister doorway in white mar- C) including the chapel of Sant Esteve, ble with Christ in Majesty on the Cross the monastic church of Santa Maria, on a above and a magnifcent carved capital in basilical plan with an ambulatory, one side the middle; arches and sculpted capitals of the cloister and the lavabo, and most of in the large cloister; antependium of Sant the monastic buildings (dormitory, refec- Pau and Santa Tecla); within the precinct tory and chapter house). Declared a World stands the church of Santa Tecla la Vella Heritage Site by UNESCO. (Borough: Vim- and, nearby, the chapel of Sant Pau. In the bodí i Poblet.) centre of the Roman amphitheatre by the sea are the remains of a 6th C basilica and Sant Martí Sarroca. Church of Santa of the Romanesque church of Santa Maria Maria, restored in 1906 by Puig i Cada- del Miracle. falch, single nave and door with archivolts, later lantern and bell tower. The apse is Ulldecona. The church of Mare de Déu considered the most richly adorned in dels Àngels (13th C) stands within the Catalonia (arcades inside and out, with enclosure of the ancient castle dating from archivolts and decorated abacuses on the Al-Andalus period that rises above the columns with capitals with plant and town, the centre of an important commu- zoomorphic motifs). Gothic and Baroque nity of the Knights Hospitallers. Rectan- retables. Considerably restored castle. gular fortifed tower (13th C) and circular tower (12th C) surrounded by the exterior Sant Sebastià dels Gorgs. Former Ben- compound of the fortifed complex. edictine monastery: the church, though altered, retains its ancient door and fne Vallbona de les Monges. Monastery of Cis- sculpted tympanum (Christ in Majesty on tercian nuns where the religious community the Cross surrounded by angels), its bell still continues. This is an important group tower and part of the cloister. (Borough: of buildings in the Romanesque-Gothic Avinyonet del Penedès.) transition style (12th-13th C and later). A church with Cistercian architecture on a Santes Creus. Ancient and important Latin cross plan with a lantern tower and Cistercian monastery with royal tombs in Gothic bell tower rising above the nave. the transept, Romanesque-Gothic transi- On the door of the north transept there tion style. Church on a basilical plan and is a fne relief depicting Marian themes. quadrangular main apse in Cistercian Magnifcent cloister with the south and style (12th-13th C). Other fne examples of east sides dating from the 13th C.

36 POBLET. SANTA MARIA

VALLBONA DE LES MONGES

37 ROUTE 4 From La Cerdanya to the Barcelona area v a the Llobregat and Cardener valleys

rom Puigcerdà, the capital of La Cerdanya which Fstands on a hilltop overlooking beautiful countryside, the frst recommended visit is to the little village of Guils, with its church of Sant Esteve. We then take the N-260, which runs alongside the slow-fowing Segre amid the villages and green felds of the La Cerdanya plain to Bellver de Cerdanya. Among the many parish churches

AÜLL (1123). MNAC within the municipal boundaries of this attractive tourist centre are the Romanesque church of Tall, known as the catedral cerdana (La Cerdanya cathedral), and Santa

A MARIA DE T Eugènia de Nerellà, with its charming leaning bell tower.

After driving 5 km through the Cadí Tunnel, which links La Cerdanya and El Berguedà, following the C-16, we

THASAR, SANT come across the monastery of Sant Llorenç prop Bagà on the banks of the Bastareny, very close to Guardiola de Berguedà. From Guardiola a scenic route leads eastward towards the nearby town of La Pobla de Lillet, with its ruined monastery of Santa Maria and the round church HAND OF KING BAL of Sant Miquel. It is worth detouring along a road that climbs amid spectacular panoramic views past the little

38 church of Sant Vicenç de Rus to the picturesque town of Castellar de n’Hug, which offers the dual attraction of the interesting parish church of Santa Maria and the natural beauty of the sources of the Llobregat.

Returning to Guardiola, the C-16 continues southwards through the Llobregat gorges towards Berga, the capital of El Berguedà. Before reaching the town, we take the C-26 eastwards across La Baells reservoir to the exceptionally beautiful church of Sant Jaume de Frontanyà, unquestionably the best example of Romanesque architecture in El Berguedà. Near the town of Berga, which lies at the foot of the mountains below the shrine of Queralt, are two more buildings of special interest which are reached by crossing the picturesque medieval bridge over the Llobregat: the pre-Romanesque church of Sant Quirze de Pedret on the left bank and, further south, close to the C-16, the church of Obiols that is also pre-Romanesque.

The suggested route from Berga runs westwards through pleasant countryside with lofty mountains and thick pinewoods, especially after the La Mina Tunnel, where we cross into the comarca (natural region) of BELLVER DE CERDANYA. SANTA MARIA DE TALLÓ El Solsonès. The route continues amid the cliffs and crags of the Busa and Bastets ranges until it reaches the renowned summer holiday resort of Sant Llorenç de Morunys, lying below the ski slopes of Port del Comte, where an ancient Benedictine monastery is located. A little before Sant Llorenç, a road on the left that runs through wide open gorges along the Cardener, between the cliffs of Lord and Busa and round the waters of La Llosa del Cavall reservoir, fnally reaches Solsona, the capital of the comarca of El Solsonès and seat of the Diocese of Solsona. The old quarter has great character, presided over by the cathedral of Santa Maria and the magnifcent Museu Diocesà.

Proceeding towards Manresa along the C-55 via a minor road to Berga, we soon reach a turning to the left which

39 brings us to the church of Sant Esteve d’Olius, close to the Cardener, which has an interesting cemetery in the Modernista (Catalan Art Nouveau) style. Once again on the main road, we soon come to the old town of Cardona, which grew up alongside rock salt deposits known as La Muntanya de Sal (the Salt Mountain). Rising above the town is the imposing duke’s castle (now partly converted into a hotel) and the outstanding building of the collegiate church of Sant Vicenç, a key masterpiece in Catalan Romanesque architecture. Further on, two trips may be made from Sria: one westwards along a track to Coaner’s church and castle, standing on a rocky pinnacle; the other along a track that leads northeast from the Balsareny road to Sant Cugat del Rac. Before reaching Manresa, at Sant Joan de Vilatorrada, we can take the C-37, which starts at the Eix Transversal highway and leads to Igualada. After a few kilometres we leave by the Maians exit, which allows us to take the BV- 1081 to Castellfollit del Boix. We then have to retrace our steps towards Manresa to once again join the main route. The city of Manresa, capital of El Bages, is an important industrial and commercial centre with several interesting buildings including the basilica of Santa Maria, which is built in Gothic style but which has conserved some Romanesque elements. A highly recommendable side trip along the C-141 towards Vic takes us to the beautiful monastery of Sant Benet de Bages, a site of great beauty and now converted into a cultural and tourist centre known as Mn Sant Benet. Close to this, the road from Navarcles to Terrassa via the Coll d’Estenalles (Estenalles Pass) brings us to Talamanca’s church and castle and, further on, to the picturesque village of Mura, with its church of Sant Martí, nestling in a deep valley. From Manresa our route continues along a minor road to the shrine of La Salut at Viladordis and, after crossing the Llobregat at El Pont de Vilomara, we reach the nearby small church of Santa Maria de Matadars (or of El Marquet). At Sant Vicenç de Castellet we rejoin the main C-55 and drive through the Llobregat Valley, soon reaching Monistrol. From here the opportunity should be taken to visit the monastery of Montserrat, the spiritual centre of Catalonia and one of the great shrines of Roman

40 CARDONA. SANT VICENÇ

Catholicism, perched halfway up the imposing mountain of the same name, with its distinctive rock formations. La Mare de Déu de Montserrat is a Romanesque sculpture carved in wood. Close by, at the foot of the spectacularly sheer rock face below the vantage point at Sant Jeroni, the highest point on the mountain, is the Romanesque church of Santa Cecília, which belonged to another ancient monastery.

Continuing down the Llobregat Valley still on the C-55 we reach Abrera, with its parish church of Sant Pere and the chapel of Sant Hilari. We then join the N-II and pass through Martorell and Sant Andreu de la Barca until reaching the Quatre Camins intersection where we take the N-340 to the right and, some 12 km further on, come to two interesting buildings: Santa Maria de Cervell, on the left-hand side of the road, and Sant Ponç de Corbera, along a minor road to Corbera de Llobregat on the outskirts of the town.

41 Main historic buildings

Abrera. Parish church of Sant Pere (12th C), with a single nave and a Lombard-type trefoil-plan chevet, a fne carved door and bell tower above the vaulted roof. Nearby stands the pre-Romanesque chapel of Sant Hilari, with a single nave and rectan- gular apse (the sculpted imposts probably date further back). Cardona. Capital of the ancient Duchy of the same name. Former canonical monas- tery of Sant Vicenç, church consecrated in 1040 and one of the great Catalan Romanesque monuments: large basilica CARDONA. SANT VICENÇ in the form of a Latin cross with three aisles (the nave is 19.6 m high with six windows), separated by cruciform pillars, three Lombard-type apses, a small tran- sept, an octagonal lantern, austere façade with a rose window and a galilee with arch- ways (with reproductions of the Roman- esque mural paintings that are now at the MNAC); the crypt, beneath the chancel, has three aisles with groined vaulting rest- ing on columns with pyramid-frustum cap- itals. Of the substantially altered ancient Romanesque castle, seat of an important noble dynasty and in a key strategic posi- tion, the famous but considerably modifed Torre de la Minyona, or keep, still remains, with a cylindrical form and later sloping base alongside the large palace and later monas- tery buildings (now converted into a hotel). CARDONA. SANT VICENÇ Castellar de n’Hug. Parish church of Santa Maria (11th C, altered), with a single nave, Coaner. Church of Sant Julià, conse- door with interesting ironwork and bell crated in 1024, with three aisles, three tower. Nearby stands the church of Sant apses and walls decorated in Lombard Vicenç de Rus (1105), with a single nave style. Square bell tower above the ridge. and apse with arcatures; mural paintings. Alongside it stands the handsome, cylin- drical tower of the old castle. (Borough: Castellfollit del Boix. Parish church of Sant Mateu de Bages). Sant Pere (11th C), originally with a sin- gle nave with a transept and three apses, Guils de Cerdanya. Parish church of Lombard-style decoration, a monumental Sant Esteve (12th C), with a single nave, portal in the south wall (13th C); major decorated apse, fne doorway with three reform during the Baroque period. archivolts and columns with carved cap- itals. An antependium from here with Cervell. Church of or Santa Maria scenes from the life of Saint Stephen is del Socors (11th C), formerly parish church now at the Museo del Prado. of Sant Esteve: single nave and Lom- bard-type apse, built with red-hued stone, Manresa. Collegiate church of Santa Maria lantern above crossing, with the base of (known as La Seu), in Gothic style with some an ancient bell tower. elements from the earlier Romanesque

42 MONTSERRAT. MARE DE DÉU church. Door with fne capitals and a tym- the famous and very beautiful Mare de panum depicting Marian themes (the orig- Déu, a 12th C gilded polychrome wooden inal has been moved inside) and arches statue of the Virgin with the characteris- from the Romanesque cloister alongside tic black colour of the face and hands of the 18th C cloister. Mary and Jesus. On the same mountain, where monks and hermits have lived for El Marquet. Church of Santa Maria de centuries, there is the handsome 11th C (11th C), with a single nave Matadars church of the former Benedictine monas- (the chevet is earlier, pre-Romanesque), a rectangular apse and two chapels or side tery of Santa Cecília, with three aisles and apses joined to the main apse by horseshoe three apses with Lombard-style ornamen- arches. The MNAC conserves a Virgin with tation. (Borough: Monistrol de Montserrat Child from this church. (Borough: Mura). and Marganell.) Montserrat. Benedictine monastery of Mura. Parish church of Sant Martí (11th-12th Santa Maria, spiritual centre of Catalo- C, altered). Apse with arcatures over capi- nia with a long cultural tradition. Of the tals and half columns, a fne doorway with Romanesque basilica only the former main archivolts and richly decorated with sculp- door remains (now in the atrium) along with tures (tympanum depicting the Epiphany).

43 Pedret. Church of Sant Quirze (9th C, extended in the 10th C and reformed in the 12th C). This is one of the fnest examples of Catalan pre-Romanesque architecture, with a rectangular nave with a trapeziform main apse and small horseshoe-shaped side apses. Horseshoe arches. The south side aisle no longer exists. Reproductions are on show in the church of the original mural paintings that are now housed in the MDCS (both the early works of the 10th C with the famous Orant fgure, as well as fully Romanesque pieces from the late 11th C, with scenes of the Apoc- alypse, etc.) and at the MNAC (from the small apses), attributed to the Master of Pedret. Remains of the original mural painting in situ. (Borough: Cercs.) La Pobla de Lillet. On a hill above the town stands the former Augustinian can- onry of Santa Maria de Lillet with a mod- ified and recently consolidated 12th C church. Remains of a very early cloister. Metal walkway above the ruins. Nearby stands the church of Sant Miquel (12th C), possibly once the castle’s chapel, cir- cular in shape with an adjoining apse, semi-spherical dome and door with vous- soirs, restored. A large 12th C polychrome wooden fgure of Christ in Majesty from Santa Maria is venerated in the parish church of La Pobla. Sant Benet de Bages. Former Benedic- tine monastery, a group of Romanesque buildings with later additions: 12th C CERCS. SANT QUIRZE DE PEDRET church on a Latin cross plan, a central apse that protrudes outward and two Obiols. Parish church of Sant Vicenç, other apses embedded in the wall, a lan- Romanesque nave and small transept and tern crowned with a slender two-storey pre-Romanesque trapeziform apse with tower, doorway with archivolts and cap- horseshoe arches inside resting on col- itals, crypt, solid bell tower, magnifcent umns with very primitive capitals. Anthro- 12th-13th C cloister with sculpted capitals pomorphic graves in front of the doorway. featuring a wide range of plant and fgu- (Borough: Avià.) rative motifs. Declared a national monu- ment in 1931. The restored precinct plays Olius. Parish church of (11th C), Sant Esteve host to the cultural and tourism complex notable example of Lombard Romanesque Mn Sant Benet. (Borough: Sant Fruits style: single nave, semi-circular apse with de Bages.) characteristic decoration, a beautiful crypt (same size as chancel) with three small Sant Cugat del Rac. Parish church aisles supported by six columns with pyr- also known as Sant Cugat Salou (11th amid-frustum capitals and groined vault- C), notable example of Lombard style, on ing (the stairs and bell tower are 16th C). a Greek cross plan and notable circular Nearby, an interesting cemetery in Moder- lantern, main apse and one of the small nista (Catalan Art Nouveau) style. apses. Gothic doorway. (Borough: Navàs.)

44 SANT BENET DE BAGES

Sant Jaume de Frontanyà. Parish church and former Augustinian canonry, an exceptionally fne example of 11th C Lom- bard Romanesque architecture on a Latin cross plan. A majestic twelve-sided lan- tern rests on squinches (unique in Catalonia and imitated in the restoration of Ripoll). It has three apses and an austere façade.

Sant Llorenç de Morunys. Former Ben- edictine monastery with a considerably modified 11th C church (now a parish church) with three aisles, Lombard-style decoration, conserving interesting Gothic and Baroque retables, and the remains of monastery buildings. Renaissance clois- ter. Museum-Interpretation Centre Vall de LA POBLA DE LILLET. SANT MIQUEL Lord.

45 SANT JAUME DE FRONTANYÀ

Sant Llorenç prop Bagà. Former Ben- tower with Lombard-style decoration, that edictine monastery, with an 11th-12th is noticeably inclined and is known as the C church that was signifcantly modifed Torre de Pisa (Leaning Tower) of La Cer- during the Baroque period. Three aisles danya. (Borough: Bellver de Cerdanya.) and a platform with groined vaulting in the middle of the central nave. Truncated bell Solsona. Cathedral of Santa Maria, seat tower and pre-Romanesque reliefs on the of the Diocese since 1593 and formerly east side windows. Monastic buildings an important Augustinian canonry. Of the and remains of the cloister. Example of original Romanesque church, consecrated contemporary architectural restauration. in 1163 but much altered in Gothic and (Borough: Guardiola de Berguedà.) Baroque times, the following remain: three apses decorated inside with columns Sant Ponç de Corbera. Former Benedic- and capitals, the cloister door (School of tine monastery, interesting church (11th C) Lleida, 13th C), the magnifcent bell tower with a single nave, transept with three and the famous and beautiful black stone semi-circular apses at the end, a lantern statue of the Mare de Déu del Claustre. above the crossing crowned by the bell Capitals and columns conserved at the tower, with Lombard-style ornamentation adjoining Museu Diocesà i Comarcal. over the entire exterior. The polychrome Talamanca. Parish church of Santa Maria wooden statue from here of the Mare de Déu (12th C), with a single nave, transept and de la Llet (Nursing Virgin) (12th -13th C) is apse, door with archivolts and columns in the parish church of the neighbouring with carved capitals and a frieze on exte- town of Corbera. (Borough: Cervell.) rior walls with corbels.

Santa Eugènia de Nerellà. Parish church, Tall. Parish church and shrine of Santa with a single nave and peculiar square bell Maria (11th-12th C), broad nave and dec-

46 SOLSONA. CATHEDRAL

orated apse, door with ironwork protected by a porch, bell tower; 13th C wood- carved statue of the Mare de Déu. It was once the seat of an Augustinian canonry and is the most noteworthy Romanesque church in the comarca. (Borough: Bellver de Cerdanya.)

Viladordis. Shrine and parish church of the Mare de Déu de la Salut, a small mod- ifed building with a single nave and apse. (Borough: Manresa.)

BELLVER DE CERDANYA. SANTA EUGÈNIA DE NERELLÀ

47 les Abadesses.Here inthemonasteryismagnifcent Pau deSegriesandtheattractive townofSantJoande Following theC-38alongside theTer, wecometoSant recommended. a visittotheattractiveparishchurch ofLlanarsishighly bridge. Aminorroad leadsfrom here toSetcases,where as thechurch andthelarge ofSantPere medieval countryside, withseveraloutstandingmonumentssuch a populartouristresort setinpeaceful,green Pyrenean After rejoining theC-38weare sooninCamprodon, Christ inMajestyontheCross. Inside thelovelychurch here isanimpressive fgure of picturesque villageofBeget,nestlinginadeepvalley. brings ustoRocabruna.We driveondowntothe magnifcent viewsovertheAltaGarrotxa mountains, A littlewayon,aroad totheleft,whichaffords comes intoviewsurrounded bymeadows. B O F ROUTE 5 48 J enter ElRipollès,theslenderbelltowerofMollchurch ust aswecross theColld’Ares passviatheC-38to rom theP arcelona v a E arcelona v sona andV yrenees to alles l R polles,

HAND OF GOD, ANTEPENDIUM, SANT PERE DE BOÍ (CIRCA 1260). MNAC group of sculptures, the Santíssim Misteri (Holy Mystery), and the consolidated ruins of the old parish church. At the exit from the town centre there is a medieval bridge, rebuilt after the Spanish Civil War. The almost straight road to Ripoll continues down the course of the Ter amid felds and green meadows.

Ripoll, the capital of the comarca (natural region) of El Ripollès, stands where the Ter and Freser rivers meet. It is known as the bressol (cradle) of Catalonia due to its role during the resettlement of Catalonia (after the Muslim occupation) and the cultural infuence it exerted. The old monastery of Santa Maria, with its splendid doorway, is of prime importance. Ripoll stands at the intersection of roads leading to La Cerdanya, El Berguedà and La Garrotxa. Our route continues down alongside the Ter on the C-17, amid oak and pine woods and riverside thickets. Beyond Montesquiu and Sant Quirze de Besora, we turn left towards Torell across a long bridge that spans the river and then on to the fne parish church at nearby Sant Vicenç de Torell (restored).

The C-17 fnally leaves the course of the Ter and runs through the neat and fertile felds of the Plana de CAMPRODON Vic, a plain dotted with handsome farmhouses and surrounded by mountains. In the centre lies the important city of Vic, the capital of Osona. In addition to the Romanesque cathedral bell tower and the contents of the Museu Episcopal, Vic offers many other attractions including a large and lively Plaça Major with archways, where a busy market is held on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and its famous cured sausages.

Many excursions can be made from Vic to the various monuments that make up the rich Romanesque heritage of the Plana. To the northeast are Tavèrnoles and Savassona and, above all, the monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres, standing at the tip of a rocky promontory

49 over the Sau reservoir on the Ter. On the eastern side are Santa Eugènia de Berga, Vilalleons, Espinelves and Sant Sadurní d’Osormort, all in picturesque surroundings and easy to reach. West of Vic, the C-25d to Prats de Lluçanès takes us to the little church of Sant Andreu de Llanars standing on the plateau that separates the waters of the Ter from the Llobregat and, even more importantly, to the monastery of Lluçà, which alone is well worth the trip. The road southwest to Santa Eulàlia de Riuprimer leads to Vilanova del Pla and to the exceptionally fne monastery of L’Estany over the border in Moianès.

Once again picking up the C-17 towards Barcelona we reach La Garriga, a traditional summer holiday resort in the comarca of El Vallès Oriental, with its church of Santa Maria del Camí and, further south, in Canovelles, the parish church of Sant Feliu. However, well before reaching these two locations one can branch off at Centelles along the C-1413, a road that winds up along the Cingles de Bertí cliffs. Then, just before Sant Feliu de Codines, there is a turning to the left towards the picturesque setting of Sant Miquel del Fai, where a church built into a cave stands BIGUES I RIELLS. SANT MIQUEL DEL FAI alongside beautiful waterfalls.

From Sant Feliu de Codines we drive down towards Caldes de Montbui, a spa town with hot springs and interesting Roman remains. Just before Caldes, an attractive mountain road climbs up El Farell and down to Sant Sebastià de Montmajor in its secluded valley. From Caldes, we go on through Castellar del Vallès to the city of Terrassa, where a visit to the church complex of Sant Pere that was the seat of the ancient Diocese of Egara is highly recommended. Those who enjoy a mountain hike can take the road to Navarcles and then the track up to Can Pobla, from where a 45-minute climb reaches the summit of La Mola, presided over by the church of the

50 RIPOLL. SANTA MARIA ancient monastery of Sant Llorenç del Munt, from where breathtaking panoramic views can be admired.

The road from Terrassa to Rubí takes us on to the town of Sant Cugat del Vallès. Here, at the foot of the Serra de Collserola that separates Vallès from the Barcelona plain, we can admire the imposing buildings of the ancient Benedictine monastery with its magnifcent Romanesque cloister. Taking the Sabadell road (N-150) towards Cerdanyola we reach the nearby church of Santa Maria de Barberà del Vallès, which contains interesting wall paintings. Rejoining the N-150 we continue on to Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital of Catalonia and one of the foremost cities on the Mediterranean, which is an important stopping place on any Romanesque route. In addition to buildings of great interest such as Sant Pau del Camp, Barcelona is the home of the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, which houses the world’s fnest collection of Romanesque mural paintings.

51 Main historic buildings

Barberà del Vallès. Parish church of Santa Maria (11th C); single nave and large transept opening onto three apses (Lombard-style decoration on apses and wall); bell tower with pyramid-shaped roof. Interesting mural paintings: Christ in Majesty on the Cross with scenes from the Old and New Testaments, the Exalta- tion of the Cross, etc.

Barcelona. The political and economic vitality of the capital of Catalonia has caused much of the city of the Roman- esque period to disappear. However, L’ESTANY. SANTA MARIA some interesting Romanesque exam- ples remain: the cathedral, the chapel of Santa Llcia (13th C) and elements from the cloister; the Roman walls, which were rebuilt in Romanesque times (especially in the zone of the Plaça de la Catedral); Sant Pere de les Puelles (10th-11th C), a former monastery of Benedictine nuns (considerably altered), and, above all, the former Benedictine monastery of Sant Pau del Camp (12th-13th C) with the church with a single nave, broad transept and three apses, a notable doorway and cloister with multifoil arches and fne capi- tals; the chapels of Sant Llàtzer (12th C) of the former Hospital dels Mesells (Lepers’ Hospital) and of En Marcs (12th C), and the courtyard gallery at the Palau Episco- pal (13th C). Remains of the Romanesque LLUÇÀ. SANTA MARIA palace of the Counts of Barcelona in the Palau Reial Major (Plaça del Rei). Various Camprodon. Former Benedictine monas- museums, foremost among them the tery of Sant Pere: church on a Latin cross MNAC, with exceptionally rich collections. plan, consecrated in 1169, with fve square In the Arxiu de la Corona d’Arag (Archive apses, a dome above the crossing with an of the Crown of Aragon) there are excep- octagonal lantern surmounted by a small tional illuminated cartularies such as the two-storey bell tower. Door with columns. Liber feudorum maior. Canovelles. Parish church of Sant Feliu Beget. Church of Sant Cristfol (12th C), of considerable dimensions, with a single (11th C), with a single nave, a Lombard-type nave, apse with a fne window, decorated apse, notable doorway (12th-13th C) with door and square, three-storey bell tower; archivolts and geometric and animal dec- it still conserves the famous Majestat de orations. Beget (Christ in Majesty), a 12th C statue, wearing a tunic and crown and later poly- Espinelves. Parish church of Sant Vicenç, chromed. Baptismal font and several with two aisles and two apses (11th and Gothic and Baroque statues and retables. 12th C) with Lombard-type decoration, (Borough: Camprodon.) a three-storey bell tower with arcatures

52 resting on brackets with small heads. Lluçà. Former priory of canons: church of 12th C south door. Santa Maria, dating from the late 12th C with a single nave and three apses, with many L’Estany. Former Augustinian canonry of later alterations and recently restored; Santa Maria: church consecrated in 1133 original ironwork on door; small but hand- with a single nave, transept and three apses, some cloister with very fne columns and and a magnifcent 12th and 13th C clois- capitals (plant and animal motifs) in the ter with ten arches on each side resting on style of the School of Ripoll. A magnif- twin columns and numerous capitals with cent antependium and altar sides (13th C) highly varied motifs (biblical and profane partly reproduced, are now in the MEV. scenes including betrothals, minstrels, 14th C Gothic paintings have been found etc.); monastery buildings and a small beneath the choir. On a nearby hill stand museum. the ruins of Lluçà Castle and the chapel of Sant Vicenç, with a circular nave and La Garriga. Church of Santa Maria del semi-circular apse. Camí, once part of a hospital, with a sin- gle nave and sculpted doorway, rebuilt in Moll. Parish church of Santa Cecília the 12th C over an earlier construction. (12th C), with well-squared stonework, a single nave and transept, doorway Llanars. Parish church of Sant Esteve, with recessed orders and a carved frieze consecrated in 1168, with a single nave and above; a slender four-storey bell tower, apse, handsome doorway recessed in friezes of arcatures and fne windows. three orders, columns and capitals (School of Roussillon) and original ironwork; out- Ripoll. The former Benedictine monastery standing 12th C Cantependium in poly- of Santa Maria, which is today the parish chrome wood (Christ Pantocrator and church, was founded in 879 by Count scenes from the life of Saint Stephen). Guifré el Pels (Wilfred the Hairy) and

BARCELONA. SANT PAU DEL CAMP

53 played a leading role in the resettlement of Old Catalonia and in the dissemination of culture (important scriptorium); resto- ration begun in 1886 in accordance with Romanesque criteria of the time; church on a basilical plan, consecrated in 1032, with fve aisles, a crossing and seven 11th C apses in Lombard-style, two bell tow- ers (the southern one is a seven-storey bell tower); Romanesque tomb of Count Ramon Berenguer III; mid-12th C doorway, the fnest work of Catalan Romanesque sculpture, with seven horizontal bands of complex decoration (biblical, apoca- lyptic and allegorical scenes) and, on the intrados of the doorway arch, the twelve months of the year with scenes of rural life; cloister begun in the second half of the 12th C, with one entirely Romanesque side comprising very beautifully deco- rated capitals (confronting animals, mon- sters, foliage) that gave rise to the name of the Ripoll School of Sculpture. The other cloister archways date from the 14th-16th C and are imitation Romanesque. Remains of monastery buildings and the sculpture in stucco of the so-called Mare de Déu del SANT CUGAT DEL VALLÈS Claustre (13th C). The Monastery Interpre- tation Centre is in the Capella de la Con- gregaci.

Rocabruna. Parish church of Sant Feliu (12th C), with a single nave and apse, door with handsome ironwork and a square bell tower. (Borough: Camprodon.)

Sant Andreu de Llanars. Former country parish church (12th C), with a single nave and apse with a small square bell tower above the vaulted roof. (Borough: Prats de Lluçanès.)

Sant Cugat del Vallès. Former Benedic- tine monastery, today the parish church, built over the remains of a late Imperial Roman fortress; remains of a 5th-7th C church in the cloister. Large church with three aisles and three apses, begun in the 12th C and fnished in Gothic style (west- ern façade); the Lombard-type bell tower belongs to the earlier monastic church (11th C); magnifcent Romanesque cloister (late 12th C, early 13th C), to which a sec- ond Renaissance foor with fne capitals (plant and fgurative motifs) was added MATADEPERA. SANT LLORENÇ DEL MUNT in the 16th C by the Master Sculptor of

54 SANT JOAN DE LES ABADESSES. SANTÍSSIM MISTERI

Girona, Arnau Cadell, which shows him Sant Llorenç del Munt. Former Benedic- at work and includes an inscription that tine monastery, previously a hermitage, at identifes him. Chapter house and remains the summit of La Mola (1,104 m): church of other Romanesque and pre-Roman- (consecrated in 1064), a key work of Lom- esque monastic buildings. In the buildings bard Romanesque art on a basilical plan that surround the cloister is the Museu de with an octagonal lantern, three aisles and Sant Cugat. three apses. Remains of monastery build- ings. (Borough: Matadepera.) Sant Joan de les Abadesses. Former monastery of Benedictine nuns, later an Sant Miquel del Fai. Former Benedictine Augustinian canonry; 12th C church with monastery in a protected natural area, a single nave and broad transept crowned with spectacular cliffs and waterfalls; by five richly decorated apses (highly church built into a cave in the tradition of restored), the remains of a Romanesque troglodyte churches that still conserves cloister or gallery alongside the Gothic one; its Romanesque façade. Silver proces- the Davallament de la Creu (Descent from sional cross (12th C) from the monastery the Cross), known as the Santíssim Mis- now in the Museu Diocesà de Barcelona. teri (1251, Holy Mystery), a famous group To the south, in the small chapel of Sant of seven polychrome wooden sculpted Martí, mural paintings now at the MNAC figures, one of the best of the period. have been reproduced. (Borough: Bigues The Museu del Monestir is in the former i Riells.) monastic buildings. Consolidated ruins of the former parish church of Sants Joan i Sant Pere de Casserres. Former Benedic- Pol, destroyed in the 1936-1939 Spanish tine monastery, surrounded by a pronounced Civil War (chevet with three apses and bend in the Sau reservoir. An excep- façade with a decorated doorway). tional example of an 11th C Romanesque

55 Santa Eugènia de Berga. Notable parish church (11th-12th C) with a single nave, transept and three apses, lantern sur- mounted by a three-storey bell tower with two-light windows, rose window, door with archivolts, columns and capitals in the style of the School of Ripoll.

Savassona. Church of Sant Pere de Savassona (11th C), with a single nave and apse, Lombard-type decoration, at the foot of the castle. Nearby, the small church of Sant Feliuet with a pre-Roman- esque chevet (horseshoe arch and rectan- gular apse), and 10th C anthropomorphic graves outside and the remains of an Ibe- rian village. (Borough: Tavèrnoles.)

Tavèrnoles. Parish church of Sant Esteve (c.1070), modified: single nave and semi-circular apse with Lombard-type decoration and bell tower in the same style.

Terrassa. Group of churches of Sant Pere de Terrassa, former episcopal com- plex of the Diocese of Egara. Three highly

LES MASIES DE RODA. SANT PERE DE CASSERRES interesting churches are conserved here: Santa Maria, a former Augustinian monastery. The very large church was canonry (on a Latin cross plan with an consecrated circa 1053 and has extremely octagonal lantern and dome crowned by beautiful lines, with three aisles and three a two-storey bell tower, Lombard-style apses, and Lombard-style ornamenta- decoration, consecrated in 1112, but tion; solid, square bell tower; small rebuilt with the chevet reused from the 6th C cloister; monastic buildings with furnish- Paleochristian cathedral, square on the ings and objects refecting life in the mon- outside but horseshoe-shaped on the astery. (Borough: Les Masies de Roda.) inside); Sant Miquel (6th C) (on a square plan, heptagonal apse and eight columns Sant Sadurní d’Osormort. Parish church with capitals supporting the central dome, (11th C), with a single nave and Lom- crypt with a trefoil apse chapel); and Sant bard-type apse, large modifed bell tower Pere, a parish church (6th C trilobed apse above the galilee; the 12th C mural paint- bordering a trapeziform foor plan, single ings from here are now at the MEV. Romanesque nave and transept from the Carolingian period, as is the stone retable Sant Sebastià de Montmajor. Parish at the centre of the apse). Exceptional set church (11th C) with a single nave with of pre-Romanesque mural paintings in the transept, quadrangular main apse and three churches, mural painting from the small, semi-circular side apses, another late 12th C in a small apse in Santa Maria, side apse, bell tower above the crossing, with scenes of the martyrdom of Saint characteristic Lombard-style decoration. Thomas à Becket. Interesting Gothic reta- (Borough: Caldes de Montbui.) bles. There is an interpretation centre of the complex in the former rectory, above Sant Vicenç de Torell. Parish church a Paleochristian baptistery. (11th-12th C), with a single nave, transept and large apse; fine three-storey Lom- Vic. The seat of an important diocese, the bard-type bell tower. city has many notable historic buildings.

56 TERRASSA. CHURCH COMPLEX OF SANT PERE that conserves a rich medieval heritage. Remains of the Montcada family castle and palace around a Roman temple.

Vilalleons. Church of Santa Maria (11th-12th C), with a single nave, semi-cir- cular wall and apse with Lombard-style decoration. Bell tower added at the end of the church. Remains of a monumental portal (12th C). Baroque retables. (Bor- ough: Sant Julià de Vilatorta.)

Vilanova del Pla. Church of Sant Jaume (11th-12th C), adjoining an old farmhouse, one of the few that are circular in shape; apse with characteristic Lombard-style decoration. (Borough: Santa Maria d’Ol.) VIC. CATHEDRAL

The Cathedral, renovated from 1782 onwards, retains its magnifcent Roman- esque Lombard-style, seven-storey bell tower and crypt (with columns with cap- itals), preserved from the cathedral con- secrated by Bishop Oliba in 1038. Next to this is the Museu Episcopal (MEV)

57 ROUTE 6

1195). MNAC From Emporda and CIRCA La Garrotxa to La Selva v a G rona

ight kilometres south of La Jonquera is the minor Eroad to Capmany which marks the beginning TARGA. HAND OF SAINT JOHN ( TARGA. of a picturesque and varied route offering many BAL fne monuments and scenery, ranging from highly spectacular stretches of coast to the ever-changing countryside of the mountainous areas inland.

A small minor road from Garriguella runs along the frequently vine-clad coastline to Vilamaniscle. From here a mountain track takes us to Sant Quirze de Colera, in the centre of a secluded valley that is one of the most isolated and unusual spots in the Alberes mountains. Sant Pere de Rodes, which can be reached via a road from Vilajuïga, is a complete contrast, standing virtually on the crest of the mountain range of the same name. From here one can enjoy breathtaking views over the northern Costa Brava, the peninsula of Cap de Creus, now a natural park, and the white houses of El Port de la Selva nestling in the most sheltered corner of the bay.

58 Heading towards Palau-saverdera, we arrive at Roses and the old Romanesque church in the Ciutadella (fortifed area). An additional attraction is the view over the broad sweep of Roses Bay, one of the most open and sunlit seascapes on the Empordà coast. Turning inland, we take a minor road from Castell d’Empries towards Sant Pere Pescador, alongside the Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà (Empordà Marshes Natural Park). From here we proceed to Sant Miquel and Sant Tomàs de Fluvià, which rise above the fat Empordà countryside with its many shades of green and numerous rows of cypresses that recall the need for protection from the refreshing but powerful north wind, the Tramuntana.

The pleasures of a visit to Peralada and Vilabertran amply justify a slight detour on the way to Figueres, the capital of Empordà, with its original Teatre-Museu Dalí. It is here that we embark on the second part of our route, leaving fat landscapes for rugged mountain scenery.

Beyond Navata and Llad we cross into La Garrotxa, another comarca (natural region) where the Romanesque churches are so numerous that we can select only ELS HOSTALETS D'EN BAS a few. Besal, the seat of a former earldom, and the nearby villages of Beuda and Palera, with the church of El Sant Sepulcre, are our frst stops. Our route takes us through much beautiful scenery: the basaltic rock cliffs of Castellfollit de la Roca, lush vegetation and the series of extinct volcanic craters around the capital, Olot, are reminders of a distant age of seismic activity.

Sant Joan les Fonts, beside the Fluvià, the garden-like beauty of the Vall de Bianya with its many tiny churches, and the road to Sant Esteve d’en Bas, close to the picturesque hamlet of Hostalets, are further attractions.

59 On our way to Banyoles, we enjoy the natural beauty of the famous beech woods of the Fageda d’en Jordà and the volcanic crater of Santa Margarida, two highly attractive natural spots, as well as the tremendous charm of the medieval village of Santa Pau.

Our visit to Porqueres, opposite the town of Banyoles, affords an excuse to drive nearly all the way round the Estany de Banyoles. The sight of this large lake (almost 100 hectares in area) comes as a surprise. Its deep, silent waters and banks overhung with pensive weeping willows seem to have been put there on purpose to enhance the beauty of the church.

Time is needed to explore Girona, an important stopping place along our route. Besides visiting the main monuments, visitors should also take a stroll through the narrow streets of the old town with its Jewish quarter, and admire the newly repainted backs of the houses of Ballesteries, refected in the waters of the Onyar.

The road to Cruïlles, Sant Julià de Boada and Canapost takes us through the capital of El Baix Empordà, La Bisbal d’Empordà, BEUDA. SANT SEPULCRE DE PALERA where good-quality hand-made pottery can be purchased. Between Palams and Sant Feliu de Guíxols we then travel along one of the prettiest stretches of the Costa Brava, the quiet and elegant residential zone of S’Agar contrasting with the cosmopolitan bustle of the big Platja d’Aro tourist resort.

We continue along good roads, amid crops, pine groves and above all the cork oak woods and farmhouses that are so characteristic of the La Selva countryside until we come to Bell-lloc, in the borough of Santa Cristina d’Aro near Sant Feliu, Santa Coloma de Farners and fnally to the idyllic spot of Sant Pere Cercada (up a pleasant woodland track).

60 BESALÚ

Lastly, following the C-35, we reach the villages of Maçanet de la Selva and Hostalric, the latter surrounded by the imposing remains of its walls. Our last stop is Breda, another pottery-manufacturing town, at the foot of the Montseny, where a solidly built Romanesque bell tower rises majestically above the rooftops.

61 Main historic buildings

Bell-lloc. Church of Santa Maria (10th C), modifed: single nave, chevet with horse- shoe shaped plan. (Borough: Santa Cris- tina d’Aro.)

Besal. Former capital of an earldom with the same name. A town with some of the most important Romanesque construc- tions in Catalonia. Church of the Bene- dictine monastery of Sant Pere (12th C), with three aisles, apse with ambulatory inside (fve arches resting on columns with sculpted capitals), window over door with small lions in relief at the sides. Church of BESALÚ Sant Vicenç (12th C), with three aisles and a transept, elegant apse with two small adjoining apses and door with archivolts and capitals. Doorway of the church of Sant Julià (12th C) from the former hos- pital. Ruins of the Augustinian canonry of Santa Maria (12th C), with a three-apse chevet, overlooking the town, next to where the Castell de Besal once stood. Sections of an early medieval wall. Inter- esting mikveh (where ritual Jewish ablu- tions were performed) and remains of the synagogue (13th C). Courtyard with arch- ways at Can Llaudes or Cornellà, a fne example of Romanesque civil architec- ture. Gothic bridge over the Fluvià.

Beuda. Parish church of Sant Feliu (12th C), with three aisles and three corresponding BREDA. SANT SALVADOR apses, doorway with archivolts, sculpted baptismal font.

Breda. Former Benedictine monas- tery of Sant Salvador, now the parish church; church renovated in Gothic times, however only the magnificent 11th C five-storey bell tower (32 m high) with Lombard-style decoration and part of the cloister remain (late 13th C), and also part of the ancient parish church of Santa Maria (now the Museu Municipal Josep Aragay), from where a Romanesque wooden statue of the Virgin, venerated at Sant Salvador, originally came.

Canapost. Church of Sant Esteve (9th- 10th C and 11th-12th C), formed by two adjoining buildings, one pre-Romanesque GIRONA. SANT PERE DE GALLIGANTS

62 GIRONA. BANYS ÀRABS

(trapezoid apse), and the other Romanes- buildings. The cathedral, with its Baroque que (semi-circular apse); bell tower; remains façade and Gothic nave, conserves of mural paintings. (Borough: Vulpellac.) the magnificent Tower of Charlemagne from the Romanesque period (11th C), a Cruïlles. Former Benedictine monastery Lombard-type fve-storey bell tower, the of Santa Maria (11th C), on a basilical cloister (12th C), one of the most beau- plan, modifed, transept and three apses, tiful in Catalonia, with sculpted capitals Lombard-type decoration, remains of and friezes showing biblical scenes and mural paintings. Remains of the chapter ornamental motifs, and the cannons’ dor- house. A fne fgure of Christ in Majesty mitory; the high altar stone and so-called on the Cross and an interesting painted Cadira de Carlemany (Charlemagne’s baldachin beam now at the MAG came Chair), made of marble (11th C). Nota- from here. (Borough: Cruïlles, Monells i ble exhibits in neighbouring museums, Sant Sadurní de l’Heura.) the TCG (with the so-called Tapís de la Creaci (Tapestry of the Creation) and the Girona. Important capital in Carolingian MAG. Former monastery of Sant Pere times, seat of an earldom and of a large de Galligants (12th C), church with three and powerful diocese, with many historic aisles, a four-apse chevet, octagonal

63 SANT JOAN LES FONTS PORQUERES. SANTA MARIA two-storey bell tower, magnifcent cloister Peralada. Town with an interesting past with capitals (biblical scenes and fgura- and many historic buildings. Cloister of a tive motifs, now the Museu Arqueolgic). former Augustinian canonry and subse- Small church of Sant Nicolau, with a sin- quent convent of Sant Domènec (12th-13th gle nave, large lantern, small transept C), standing alone in the town centre (the and three apses, once attached to Sant convent was demolished), with columns Pere. Church of Sant Feliu, begun in the and highly expressive capitals showing 13th C in Romanesque style and fnished biblical scenes, animals, etc. in Gothic style, with sculpted capitals. The so-called Banys Àrabs (Arab Baths) are in Porqueres. Parish church of Santa Maria, reality a construction dating from the 13th C near the Estany de Banyoles (Banyoles that mimic the architecture of the Muslim Lake). An interesting building (conse- and Jewish tradition (notable octagonal crated in 1182) with a single nave, trilobed building and external lantern). The Fon- apse inside, doorway recessed in three tana d’Or is a fine example of Roman- orders and columns with carved capitals esque civil architecture. Towers in the (plant and animal motifs) and a bell gable; Força Vella, the old walled area, are from triumphal arch, highly interesting capitals. the Carolingian and Romanesque period. Roses. Within the enclosure of the Ciuta- Llad. Former Augustinian canonry of della (fortified area) stand the consol- Santa Maria, remarkable 12th C church on a idated ruins of the church of the former basilical plan, with three aisles, three apses, Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria. a notable doorway with richly decorated Chevet mostly reconstructed, with the archivolts, a tympanum, lintel and capitals of apse with Lombard-type decoration. the classical order on columns, a fne win- Church consecrated in 1053. dow and remains of monastery buildings.

Navata. Former parish church of Sant Sant Esteve d’en Bas. 12th C church, with Pere (12th C), with a single nave and a single nave with transept and polygonal apse, notable doorway with archivolts, central apse of Provençal infuence, modi- tympanum depicting the Agnus Dei, cap- fed, with fne examples of sculptures (cap- itals of the classical order (and one with itals, tympanum) in the style of the School mythical animals), Romanesque ironwork of Ripoll. (Borough: La Vall d’en Bas.) and the remains of mural paintings. Sant Feliu de Guíxols. Former Bene- Palau-saverdera. Parish church of Sant dictine monastery; opposite the mainly Joan (11th C), with three aisles and three Gothic church stands the famous Porta apses, Lombard-type decoration. Ferrada, (probably the entrance to the

64 original 10th C pre-Romanesque build- ing) or the façade of the former abbatial palace, with a base of three horseshoe arches on cylindrical columns; above, a gallery with three-light windows with smaller arches and later Lombard-type frieze. Two towers, Fum (10th C) and Corn (10th-11th C, considerably modified), stand on either side of the main façade of the church.

Sant Joan les Fonts. Former Benedic- tine monastery (12th C), majestic church with three aisles and a well-decorated apse, doorway with carved capitals, bap- tismal font with relief sculptures. Juvinyà, 11th-13th C fortifed mansion, one of the oldest and best-conserved Romanesque civil constructions in Catalonia.

Sant Julià de Boada. Well-conserved pre-Romanesque church; single nave divided by a thick horseshoe arch and trapeziform apse, triumphal arch also horseshoe-shaped. Remains of Roman- esque mural paintings (12th C). (Borough: Palau-sator.) SANT MIQUEL DE FLUVIÀ

Sant Miquel de Fluvià. Former Benedic- tine monastery (11th C), church with three aisles, prominent transept, three Lom- bard-type apses, pillars and half columns inside with fne capitals (plants, fgures and birds); large separate three-storey bell tower (12th C) with Lombard decoration. A fortifed complex. Not far away stands the former priory of Sant Tomàs de Fluvià (within the borough of Torroella de Fluvià), with an 11th-12th C church with a single nave and transept and three apses with interesting mural paintings (12th-13th C).

Sant Pere Cercada. Former Augustinian canonry, church (13th C) good example of late Romanesque on a Latin cross plan, with lantern and three apses opening onto the transept, door and windows with archivolts, columns and capitals. (Bor- ough: Santa Coloma de Farners.)

Sant Pere de Rodes. Former Benedic- tine monastery, one of the most famous in Catalonia on account of its architectural importance and magnificent location overlooking the Cap de Creus peninsula and the Gulf of Lion. Church dating from SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS

65 SANT PERE DE RODES the late 10th C and early 11th C but still in the Carolingian tradition: three aisles of very different heights separated by pil- lars and columns standing on high bases, transept with central apse and two smaller apses, ambulatory, crypt, interesting capi- tals, some Corinthian (zoomorphic heads) and some polygonal (geometric designs). Square 12th C three-storey Lombard-type bell tower (27 m high). Upper cloister rebuilt (12th C) and part of a lower cloister (11th C, with remains of mural paintings), ruins of monastic buildings and fortifca- tions (large keep). Close by, in the car- park, stands the notable church of Santa Helena, pre-Romanesque and enlarged in the Romanesque period, within the remains of a former village. The ruins of the castle of Verdera dominate the sur- roundings, a fortifed enclosure with open towers (13th C) perched on the mountain peak (Borough: Port de la Selva.)

Sant Quirze de Colera. Former Benedic- tine monastery, church (11th C) on a basil- ical plan with three aisles, transept and SANT PERE DE RODES

66 VILABERTRAN. SANTA MARIA three Lombard-type apses; the remains churches of Sant Martí Vell and the shrine of an earlier church and cloister; forti- of Els Arcs. fications and moat (13th C); monastic buildings (12th-13th C). Nearby, the former Vilabertran. Former Augustinian can- parish church of Santa Maria, a small build- onry of Santa Maria, a notable group of ing with a single nave and apse (12th C). historical buildings including the church (Borough: Rabs d’Empordà.) (11th-12th C) on a basilical plan with three aisles and three apses opening onto the El Sant Sepulcre de Palera. Former transept, embedded pillars and columns Benedictine priory. Large, austere 11th C inside, slender Lombard-type three-sto- church with three aisles and three apses, rey square bell tower; cloister (12th-13th C) and vault resting on pillars. Remains of with columns, pillars and capitals (austere the cloister; monastic buildings converted plant motifs); 12th-13th C monastic build- into guest accommodation and other ings (chapter house, sacristy, wine-cellar spaces. (Borough: Beuda.) beside other later Gothic buildings). In the Rocabertí family chapel, the Gothic pre- Santa Coloma de Farners. Castell de cious metalwork processionary cross of Farners. (11th-12th C), solid walls and a Vilabertran is on display (c. 1300). magnifcent cylindrical tower rising above the precinct, with the small church of the Mare de Déu de Farners standing beneath the castle, with a Romanesque chevet.

Santa Pau. In the volcanic region of Olot. Interesting medieval quarter (square with archways – Plaça del Firal dels Bous – and castle). Nearby, the small Romanesque

67 BARCELONA. MNAC. SANT PERE DE LA SEU D'URGELL

GIRONA. MAG. BIGA DE CRUÏLLES

68 Romanesque Art in Museums

BARCELONA in Majesty on the Cross from Sant Joan les Fonts, Christ in Majesty on the Cross Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya from Cruïlles, statues of the Virgin, etc.) (MNAC). Palau Nacional de Montjuïc and sculptures in stone (reliefs and cap- (1929, museum since 1934). Totally rede- itals), precious metalwork (portable silver signed as of 1986 under the direction of altar and a chrismatory, both from Sant the architect Gae Aulenti. The Roman- Pere de Rodes, etc.). esque art section is considered one of the best in the world, especially on account of the various 11th-13th C mural paintings LLEIDA from the Catalan Pyrenees (Tall – Sant Climent and Santa Maria –, Boí, Pedret, Museu de Lleida Diocesà i Comarcal Sorpe, Santa Maria d’Àneu, Sant Pere (MLL). Modern building (2007) located del Burgal, Esterri de Cards, Estaon, where the old quarter meets the city’s Andorra, La Seu d’Urgell, etc.); notable urban expansion, on the site of the for- collections of antependia (Tavèrnoles, mer Carmelite convent, whose chapel Avià, Mosoll, Ix, Soriguerola, Baltarga, has been preserved and integrated into Betesa, Gia, etc.) and sculptures in wood the museum’s discourse. On display are (Majestat Batll, antependium from Tall, two one hundred-year-old collections: the Descent from the Cross from Erill la Vall archaeological collection of the Institut and Tall, statues of the Virgin such as d’Estudis Ilerdencs and the art collection that from Ger, etc.) and sculptures in stone of the former Museu Diocesà. It houses (capitals from Camarasa and Tavèrnoles); noteworthy Romanesque works, antepen- enamelwork and liturgical objects. The dia, sculptures, paintings, etc., as well as Museum also features other important the impressive rock crystal chess pieces sections. from the collegiate church of Sant Pere d’Àger.

GIRONA

Tresor de la Catedral de Girona (TCG). Adjoining the cathedral itself. Exhibits include the Beatus de Girona (10th C) commentaries on the Apocalypse with exquisite illuminations, the famous Tapís de la Creaci (Creation Tapestry) (11th C or early 12th C), the fnest surviving piece of Catalan Romanesque textile art, a 12th C wooden statue of the Virgin, Mare de Déu de la Catedral, etc.

Museu d’Art de Girona (MAG). In the Palau del Bisbe. Important mural paint- ings (from Pedrinyà, Bellcaire d’Empordà, Sant Julià de Boada, etc.), antependia, the famous Biga de Cruïlles (Cruïlles Beam) on which an interesting procession of monks and acolytes is painted), fne collections of sculptures in wood (Christ LA SEU D'URGELL. MDU. BEATUS

69 BARCELONA. MNAC. MAJESTAT BATLLÓ (GARROTXA) VIC. MEV

LA SEU D’URGELL figure), and from the 12th C (Saints Quiri- cus and Julita, scenes from the Apoca- Museu Diocesà d’Urgell (MDU). Housed lypse, fantastic figures), and also those in the church of La Pietat in the cathe- from Sant Pau de Casserres (with splen- dral cloister and in the Casa del Deganat. did angels playing musical instruments), Exhibits include the famous Beatus de la several painted antependia (such as the Seu d’Urgell (a 10th C beautifully illumi- side panels from Sagàs), and impor- nated manuscript of Mozarabic origin con- tant sculpted stone elements (capitals, taining commentaries on the Apocalypse), columns, reliefs, some from the original mural paintings such as those from Sorpe, cathedral of Solsona) and sculptures in Baltarga and Estaon, sculptures in wood wood (statues of the Virgin), etc. Interest- such as the Mare de Déu de Ginestarre, ing archaeological section. stone reliefs and capitals, precious metal- work, etc. Also beautiful religious works of art from the Gothic period and later. VIC

Museu Episcopal de Vic (MEV). In a SOLSONA building near the cathedral, opened in 2002 on plans by F. Correa and A. Milà, Museu Diocesà i Comarcal de Solsona this museum houses the second largest (MDS). Located in the Palau Episcopal, collection of Catalan Romanesque art and near the cathedral and cleverly restruc- one of the most important in the world. tured. It houses most of the mural paint- It includes several 11th and 12th C mural ings from Sant Quirze de Pedret, including paintings (Sant Sadurní d’Osormort, El pieces from the 10th C (the famous Orant Brull, Sant Martí Sescorts), an outstanding

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OTHER MUSEUMS such as The Cloisters in New York, the collection of painted antepedia (from Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, the Wal- Lluçà, Espinelves, Vidrà, Sant Sadurní de In Barcelona there are also other important ters Art Museum in Baltimore, the Bibli- Rotgers, the monastery of El Coll, Sant works of Romanesque art in the Museu othèque Nationale de France in Paris and Llorenç Dosmunts, Sagàs, Ribes, etc.). Diocesà (in the Pia Almoina building near the Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana (Ripoll Works of sculpture include the famous the cathedral) and in the Museu Marès Bibles), etc. There are also Romanesque Descent from the Cross from Erill la Vall (in the courtyard garden of the former works in private collections. (part of which is in Barcelona), several royal palace). Other important museums fgures of Christ in Majesty on the Cross are the Museu Diocesà de Tarragona and Christ Seated, and statues of the (with interesting works in rooms around Virgin, wooden statues, altar stones, and the cathedral cloister), the Museu de la also stone reliefs and capitals, and inte- Catedral and the Arxiu Capitular de Tor- resting examples of textiles (The Witches tosa, the Museu del Castell de Peralada Pallium, Almoravid period), precious (with reliefs and capitals from Sant Pere metalwork, enamelwork, ironwork from de Rodes), the Museu de l’Empordà in doors, reliquaries, etc. Archaeological and Figueres, the Museu Maricel in Sitges, stone carving collections in the basement. among others. Important works of Cata- lan Romanesque art are also to be found in certain foreign museums and libraries,

< GIRONA. TCG. TAPÍS DE LA CREACIÓ SOLSONA. MDS. ORANT DE SANT QUIRZE DE PEDRET

76 71 Route 1 From La Seu d’Urgell to La Pobla de Claramunt via the Segre Valley, the La Segarra plateaus and L’Anoia

Route 2 From La Val d’Aran to Lleida via Pallars and Ribagorça

Route 3 From Penedès to New Catalonia via the monasteries of the Cistercian and military orders

Route 4 From La Cerdanya to the Barcelona area via the Llobregat and Cardener valleys

Route 5 From the Pyrenees to Barcelona via Map of the Romanesque art routes El Ripollès, Osona and Vallès

Route 6 From Empordà and La Garrotxa to La Selva via Girona

Boroughs possessing Romanesque monuments World Heritage Site

< LA POBLA DE CLARAMUNT

73

Bossòst VAL D’ARAN Vielha Alt Àneu plans de Boavi Route 1 e Mijaran Naut Aran el túnel de Vielha el port de pica d’Estats From La Seu d’Urgell to La Pobla de la Bonaigua Santa Maria Ribera de Claramunt via the Segre Valley, the d’Àneu Cardós la Vall de Boí Sant Pere Alins La Segarra plateaus and L’Anoia del Burgal Andorra la Vella Llavorsí el Pont Capdella de Suert Route 2 Espui Guils Puigcerdà Sant Quirze Sant Martí Sort Sant Serni Bescaran Bellver de de Colera de la Torre de Tavèrnoles Cerdanya Molló coll d’Ares la Jonquera From La Val d’Aran to Lleida via Gerri de Arboló Estamariu Garriguella la Sal Llanars Capmany Sant Pere Senterada la Seu Castellar Peralada de Rodes Pallars and Ribagorça d’Urgell Camprodon de n’Hug Beget Sant Pau Vilabertran Palau- P S saverdera la Pobla I U Sant Llorenç Sant Joan de de Segúries Figueres de Segur R I E Beuda Roses N prop Bagà la Pobla les Abadesses Castellfollit Lladó Guardiola Sant Joan de la Roca Castelló d’Empúries Route 3 Organyà de Lillet les Fonts Palera de Berguedà Sant Jaume Abella de Sant Romà de Navata Sant Pere Pescador Tremp Valldarques Coll de Sant Llorenç de Frontanyà Ripoll Olot la Conca de Morunys Santa Pau Besalú Sant Miquel From Penedès to New Catalonia via the Nargó i Sant Tomàs Mur de Fluvià Llordà Sant Esteve Banyoles monasteries of the Cistercian and military d’en Bas Llimiana Isona Pedret Montesquiu Porqueres Covet Castell-llebre Oliana Sant Quirze Berga Lluçà de Besora COSTA orders Àger Obiols Palau Olius Sant Andreu Torelló Sant Pere BRAVA de Rialb de Casserres Sant Julià la Baronia de de Llanars la Bisbal de Boada Sant Oïsme Solsona Prats de d’Empordà Lluçanès Tavèrnoles Girona Canapost Route 4 Bellpuig de Gualter Vic Savassona les Avellanes Sant Cugat Santa Eugènia de Berga Cruïlles Cardona del Racó Santa Maria From La Cerdanya to the Barcelona area Ponts Sant Sadurní Santa Coloma d’Oló d’Osormort Camarasa Artesa de Vilalleons de Farners PAISATGES Palamós via the Llobregat and Cardener valleys Segre Coaner Súria l’Estany Sant Pere BARCELONA Espinelves Cercada Balaguer Agramunt Bell-lloc Pelagalls Sant Benet Breda de Bages Centelles Sant Feliu Maçanet de Guíxols Route 5 TERRES Manresa de la Selva Talamanca Hostalric Castellfollit Cervera Viladordis Sant Miquel From the Pyrenees to Barcelona via DE LLEIDA del Boix Mura

Map of the Romanesque art routes del Fai el Pont de Sant Llorenç Lleida Tàrrega Vilomara El Ripollès, Osona and Vallès Mollerussa del Munt la Garriga la Panadella Igualada Granollers la Tossa Terrassa Caldes Montserrat Canovelles les Borges Vallbona de de Montbui de Montbui Blanques les Monges Sabadell Route 6 Santa Coloma Abrera de Queralt Sant Cugat Barberà Mataró la Pobla de del Vallès del Vallès From EÜordà and La Garrotxa to Claramunt COSTA Sant Sebastià Poblet el Pla de Santa Maria dels Gorgs el port de Sant Feliu BARCELONA l’Ordal La Selva via Girona el Pont Sant Martí de Llobregat d’Armentera Sarroca Barcelona Montblanc Corbera Cervelló Prades Santes Banyeres Vilafranca Santa Coloma Creus del Penedès del Penedès de Cervelló Valls Moja Boroughs possessing Romanesque Olèrdola Siurana Bràfim l’Arboç monuments Escaladei el Vendrell Vilanova i la Geltrú Nulles World Heritage Site Reus Calafell Falset COSTA Móra PARC NACIONAL d’Ebre BARCELONA D’AIGÜESTORTES Gandesa Escornalbou I ESTANY DE Tarragona SANT MAURICI Erill la Vall Miravet COSTA Santa Eulàlia Taüll Sant Climent DAURADA Barruera Santa Maria Sant Feliu Boí Sant Joan TERRES Cardet Santa Maria Durro DE L’EBRE Nativitat de la Mare de Déu Cóll Sant Quirc Santa Maria Tortosa

< LA POBLA DE CLARAMUNT Amposta LA VALL DE BOÍ el Pont 73 N de Suert Ulldecona

0 25 km 50 km Bossòst VAL D’ARAN Vielha Alt Àneu plans de Boavi Route 1 e Mijaran Naut Aran el túnel de Vielha el port de pica d’Estats From La Seu d’Urgell to La Pobla de la Bonaigua Santa Maria Ribera de Claramunt via the Segre Valley, the d’Àneu Cardós la Vall de Boí Sant Pere Alins La Segarra plateaus and L’Anoia del Burgal Andorra la Vella Llavorsí el Pont Capdella de Suert Route 2 Espui Guils Puigcerdà Sant Quirze Sant Martí Sort Sant Serni Bescaran Bellver de de Colera de la Torre de Tavèrnoles Cerdanya Molló coll d’Ares la Jonquera From La Val d’Aran to Lleida via Gerri de Arboló Estamariu Garriguella la Sal Llanars Capmany Sant Pere Senterada la Seu Castellar Peralada de Rodes Pallars and Ribagorça d’Urgell Camprodon de n’Hug Beget Sant Pau Vilabertran Palau- P S saverdera la Pobla I U Sant Llorenç Sant Joan de de Segúries Figueres de Segur R I E Beuda Roses N prop Bagà la Pobla les Abadesses Castellfollit Lladó Guardiola Sant Joan de la Roca Castelló d’Empúries Route 3 Organyà de Lillet les Fonts Palera de Berguedà Sant Jaume Abella de Sant Romà de Navata Sant Pere Pescador Tremp Valldarques Coll de Sant Llorenç de Frontanyà Ripoll Olot la Conca de Morunys Santa Pau Besalú Sant Miquel From Penedès to New Catalonia via the Nargó i Sant Tomàs Mur de Fluvià Llordà Sant Esteve Banyoles monasteries of the Cistercian and military d’en Bas Llimiana Isona Pedret Montesquiu Porqueres Covet Castell-llebre Oliana Sant Quirze Berga Lluçà de Besora COSTA orders Àger Obiols Palau Olius Sant Andreu Torelló Sant Pere BRAVA de Rialb de Casserres Sant Julià la Baronia de de Llanars la Bisbal de Boada Sant Oïsme Solsona Prats de d’Empordà Lluçanès Tavèrnoles Girona Canapost Route 4 Bellpuig de Gualter Vic Savassona les Avellanes Sant Cugat Santa Eugènia de Berga Cruïlles Cardona del Racó Santa Maria From La Cerdanya to the Barcelona area Ponts Sant Sadurní Santa Coloma d’Oló d’Osormort Camarasa Artesa de Vilalleons de Farners PAISATGES Palamós via the Llobregat and Cardener valleys Segre Coaner Súria l’Estany Sant Pere BARCELONA Espinelves Cercada Balaguer Agramunt Bell-lloc Pelagalls Sant Benet Breda de Bages Centelles Sant Feliu Maçanet de Guíxols Route 5 TERRES Manresa de la Selva Talamanca Hostalric Castellfollit Cervera Viladordis Sant Miquel From the Pyrenees to Barcelona via DE LLEIDA del Boix Mura

Map of the Romanesque art routes del Fai el Pont de Sant Llorenç Lleida Tàrrega Vilomara El Ripollès, Osona and Vallès Mollerussa del Munt la Garriga la Panadella Igualada Granollers la Tossa Terrassa Caldes Montserrat Canovelles les Borges Vallbona de de Montbui de Montbui Blanques les Monges Sabadell Route 6 Santa Coloma Abrera de Queralt Sant Cugat Barberà Mataró la Pobla de del Vallès del Vallès From EÜordà and La Garrotxa to Claramunt COSTA Sant Sebastià Poblet el Pla de Santa Maria dels Gorgs el port de Sant Feliu BARCELONA l’Ordal La Selva via Girona el Pont Sant Martí de Llobregat d’Armentera Sarroca Barcelona Montblanc Corbera Cervelló Prades Santes Banyeres Vilafranca Santa Coloma Creus del Penedès del Penedès de Cervelló Valls Moja Boroughs possessing Romanesque Olèrdola Siurana Bràfim l’Arboç monuments Escaladei el Vendrell Vilanova i la Geltrú Nulles World Heritage Site Reus Calafell Falset COSTA Móra PARC NACIONAL d’Ebre BARCELONA D’AIGÜESTORTES Gandesa Escornalbou I ESTANY DE Tarragona SANT MAURICI Erill la Vall Miravet COSTA Santa Eulàlia Taüll Sant Climent DAURADA Barruera Santa Maria Sant Feliu Boí Sant Joan TERRES Cardet Santa Maria Durro DE L’EBRE Nativitat de la Mare de Déu Cóll Sant Quirc Santa Maria Tortosa

< LA POBLA DE CLARAMUNT Amposta LA VALL DE BOÍ el Pont 73 N de Suert Ulldecona

0 25 km 50 km , the collection of painted antepedia (from Wal- Lluçà, Espinelves, Vidrà, Sant Sadurní de Bibli- Rotgers, the monastery of El Coll, Sant s and Llorenç Dosmunts, Sagàs, Ribes, etc.). Ripoll Works of sculpture include the famous sque Descent from the Cross from Erill la Vall (part of which is in Barcelona), several figures of Christ in Majesty on the Cross and Christ Seated, and statues of the Virgin, wooden statues, altar stones, and also stone reliefs and capitals, and inte- resting exaÜles of textiles (The Witches Pallium, Almoravid period), precious metalwork, enamelwork, ironwork from doors, reliquaries, etc. Archaeological and stone carving collections in the basement.

SOLSONA. MDS. ORANT DE SANT QUIRZE DE PEDRET

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SANT PERE DE RODES

OTHER MUSEUMS such as The Cloisters in New York, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, the Wal- In Barcelona there are also other important ters Art Museum in Baltimore, the Bibli- works of Romanesque art in the Museu othèque Nationale de France in Paris and Diocesà (in the Pia Almoina building near the Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana (Ripoll the cathedral) and in the Museu Marès Bibles), etc. There are also Romanesque (in the courtyard garden of the former works in private collections. royal palace). Other important museums are the Museu Diocesà de Tarragona (with interesting works in rooms around the cathedral cloister), the Museu de la Catedral and the Arxiu Capitular de Tor- tosa, the Museu del Castell de Peralada (with reliefs and capitals from Sant Pere de Rodes), the Museu de l’Empordà in Figueres, the Museu Maricel in Sitges, among others. Important works of Cata- lan Romanesque art are also to be found in certain foreign museums and libraries,

< GIRONA. TCG. TAPÍS DE LA CREACIÓ

76 INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION

Departament d’Empresa Government of Catalonia i Coneixement tourist information offces Direcci General de Turisme Pg. de Gràcia, 105 Barcelona - 08008 08008 Barcelona Pg. de Gràcia, 107 (Palau Robert) Tel. (+34) 934 849 500 Tel. (+34) 932 388 091 empresa.gencat.cat palaurobert.gencat.cat www.mensaxe.com/OTCBarcelona Agència Catalana de Turisme Pg. de Gràcia, 105 Aeroport de Barcelona 08008 Barcelona Terminals 1 i 2 Tel. (+34) 934 849 900 08820 el Prat de Llobregat Tel. (+34) 934 784 704 Departament de Cultura Direcci General del Patrimoni Cultural Girona - 17004 Portaferrissa, 1 (Palau Moja) Rbla. de la Llibertat, 1 08002 Barcelona Tel. (+34) 972 010 001 Tel. (+34) 933 162 740 cultura.gencat.cat Aeroport de Girona-Costa Brava 17185 Vilobí d’Onyar Agència Catalana del Tel. (+34) 972 942 955 Patrimoni Cultural Portaferrissa, 1 (Palau Moja) Lleida 08002 Barcelona Pl. Edil Saturní, 1 - 25007 Tel. (+34) 933 162 800 Tel. (+34) 973 248 840

Tur de la Seu Vella (Edifci Canonja) - 25001 Tel. (+34) 973 238 446

Aeroport d’Alguaire - 25125 Ctra. N-230, km 14,5 Tel. (+34) 973 032 744

Tarragona - 43001 Fortuny, 4 Tel. (+34) 977 233 415

Aeroport de Reus - 43204 Autovia Reus-Tarragona Tel. (+34) 977 772 204

Terres de l’Ebre Rbla. Felip Pedrell, 3 43500 Tortosa Tel. (+34) 977 449 648

catalunya.com app Visit Catalonia patrimoni.gencat.cat app Visitmuseum

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© Generalitat de Catalunya. Departament d’Empresa i Coneixement. Direcci General de Turisme Prepared by: Servei d’Informaci i Difusi Turística In collaboration with: Departament de Cultura. Agència Catalana del Patrimoni Cultural Text: Antoni Pladevall i Font & Francesc Gurri i Serra Revision and update: Carles Puigferrat i Oliva (2018) Translation: t&s - Traduccions i tractament de la documentaci Design: Edicions de l’Eixample, SL Photography: Antoni Anguera, Bedmar, Cablepress, Imagen M.A.S., Ramon Manent, Francesc Muntada, Jordi Pareto, Juan José Pascual, Rambol, Miguel Raurich, Adrià Ropero, Arthur Friedrerich Selbach, Servicios Editoriales Georama, Joan Tous, Francesc Tur i Toni Vidal. Property of the Agència Catalana de Turisme Aviotec, Jordi Contijoch, Josep Giribet, © Rafael Lpez-Monné, Bob Masters, © Pepo Segura i Zelig. Property of the Departament de Cultura Printed by: EADOP Legal Deposit: B 17053-2019 Printed in UE

Cover photos: La Seu d’Urgell, Frontal dels Apstols, MNAC; Ripoll, Santa Maria; Vic, Marededeu de Roda de Ter; Escornalbou, Sant Miquel. Back cover photo: Tall, Sant Climent. Front inside cover: Pantocrator in Tall, MNAC. Back inside cover: Tall, video mapping in Sant Climent.

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ROMANESQUE ART ROUTES

R ART ROUTES omanesque