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US with a Gap in UVA Protection

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US with a Gap in UVA Protection GO FUTURE: SUN CARE US with a gap in UVA protection Interview | Uli Osterwalder from BASF talks about regional regulatory differences in the field of UV filters, efficient UVA und UVB filters, global formulation trends and the latest global skin cancer statistics. N N Interview partner: mosalate, octocrylene, octinox- tic goods. In Europe and in most Uli Osterwalder ate, octisalate, oxybenzone, ensu- countries in Asia, Africa and lizole, titanium dioxide and zinc South America, they are consid- Marketing Manager Sun Care oxide. As the US FDA (Food and ered cosmetics. With the excep- BASF Personal Care and Nutrition Drug Administration) has not ap - tion of the US, the new genera- Monheim am Rhein, Germany proved any new UV filters since tion of UVA and broad-spectrum [email protected] 1998, the most efficient and inno- UV filters (BEMT, MBBT, DHHB) www.personal-care.basf.com vative UV filters cannot be used in is used globally. global formulations today. COSSMA: There are currently COSSMA: What are the main re- eight sun filters waiting to be ap- gional differences concerning proved by the US authorities. COSSMA: Which UV filters are the approval of UV filters? Why does the approval process approved globally? take so long? ULI OSTERWALDER: The main re- ULI OSTERWALDER: Globally ap- gional differences in the approv- ULI OSTERWALDER: There are proved UV filters are those which al of UV filters are differences of four UVB (amiloxate, enzaca- are also registered in the US. Sev- classification: in the US and Can- mene, iscotrizinol, and octyl en organic and two inorganic ada, UV filters are considered triazone) and four UVA/ UV filters can be used in global drug actives; in Australia and broad-spectrum UV filters (be- formulations: avobenzone, ho- New Zealand, they are therapeu- motrizinol, bisoctrizole, dro- metrizole trisiloxane, and ecam- sule) under review by the FDA under the so-called Time and Ex- tent Application (TEA). The FDA has not evaluated the registra- “Only two of the UV filters permitted tion documents for years, some for more than a decade. Only the in the US offer UVA-I protection” Sunscreen Innovation Act (SIA) signed by President Obama in Uli Osterwalder, Senior Marketing Manager Sun Care, BASF November 2014 initiated the evaluation by the FDA. In 2014, the FDA sent out response let- Shutterstock.com Yudica, Carlos photo: 16 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2016 www.cossma.com GO FUTURE: SUN CARE ULI OSTERWALDER: Only two of the UV filters admitted in the US offer some UVA-I (340–400nm) protection: avobenzone and zinc oxide, hence there is a gap in UVA protection. COSSMA: What do you consider the most effective UV filters in the field of UVA protection and why? ULI OSTERWALDER: The gap in UVA protection can be filled with BASF’s Tinosorb M , Tino- sorb S and Uvinul A Plus. With these UVA/broad-spectrum UV filters, it is possible to achieve a performance close to uniform UVB/UVA protection, the so- called ‘spectral homeostasis’. COSSMA: What do you consider the most effective UV filters in the field of UVB protection and ters, asking for further safety da- why? ta for their evaluation. ULI OSTERWALDER: In addition COSSMA: How many UV filters to the classic UVB filters Uvinul N are admitted in Europe and could 539 T (octocrylene) and Uvinul you please briefly describe this MC 80 (ethylhexyl cinnamate), selection? BASF’s most effective UVB filters are Uvinul T 150 and the new ULI OSTERWALDER: Altogether, Tinosorb A2B. They have a very 28 UV filters are admitted in Eu- high specific absorption so that rope. UV filters are subject to a even small amounts in a sun- separate approval process from screen efficiently protect in the the EU Commission. All have UVB range. Tinosorb A2B is the been tested for safety and they most efficient SPF contributor have maximum dosage restric- and also has a UVB/UVA-balanc- tions. ing effect. Most of these UV filters are ei- COSSMA: What is the best way ther UVA or UVB filters. to obtain broad-spectrum protec- Broad-spectrum UV filters are ti- tion? tanium dioxide, bisoctrizole, be- motrizinol, tris-biphenyl triazine ULI OSTERWALDER: The best and zinc oxide. But even these way to obtain broad-spectrum broad-spectrum filters do not protection is to combine highly cover the complete spectrum ef- efficient filters that offer a differ- ficiently. Therefore, sunscreens ent absorption spectrum. The contain more than one UV filter BASF sunscreen simulator1 is of- (UVA and UVB) in order to opti- ten used to design such optimal mize the absorption spectrum. sunscreens. COSSMA: What UV filters can be COSSMA: What ingredients can used in the US and how effective be used as SPF boosters in cos- are they? metic formulations? www.cossma.com l 17 GO FUTURE: SUN CARE ULI OSTERWALDER: A good dis- kids and babies that are currently DOWNLOADS tribution of UV filters in the very popular in Australia. Additional information at water and oil phase of the emul- www.cossma.com/qr00069 sion is the basis for an efficient COSSMA: What types of formats Your access codes for February: UV protection of the final formu- are particularly popular in what User name: cossma2 lation. The use of particulate UV region? Password: sun filters, such as the organic Tino- sorb M and Tinosorb A2B or the ULI OSTERWALDER: In North inorganic Z-Cote and titanium America, with almost 25 percent dioxide, achieves a boosting ef- of the launched products, sprays rise. According to the World fect when combined with oil- including emulsion sprays and Health Organization (WHO), be- soluble UV filters or UV filter oils even more lipo-alcoholic clear tween two and three million cas- by scattering UV light in the sun- As the FDA has not continuous sprays have an im- es of non-melanoma skin can- approved any ad- screen film. Using polymers portant market share. In Europe, cers (basal cell carcinoma and ditional UV filters (film formers) to optimize the especially emulsion sprays re- squamous cell carcinoma) and since 1998, the film formation can help increase most efficient UV main very popular. ‘Shake well’ 132,000 cases of malignant mel- the performance even further. filters cannot be formats are popular in Asia Pa- anoma (MM) occur globally each used in global for- cific, accounting for 22 percent year. Although MM is by far the COSSMA: What are major chal- mulations today of the products launched there, rarest of the three types of skin lenges in creating effective sun compared to only two percent in cancer, it accounts for 75 percent protection formulations? the other major regions. of skin cancer deaths. ULI OSTERWALDER: Some of the Beyond the products classified COSSMA: In what regions has UV filters are difficult to dissolve as mere sunscreens, we observe the rate of skin cancer increased in cosmetic oils. This limits their a growing trend in the introduc- considerably in the past few concentrations in the final sun- tion of skin care products with years, and why? screens. If UV filters with a low UV protection. Face care and efficacy have to be used, their foundation products, especially ULI OSTERWALDER: Especially in concentration has to be higher, blemish balm (BB) creams, con- western countries, the rate of which might negatively influ- tribute to about 20 percent of the skin cancer has increased con- ence the sensory effect of the products with sun protection in- siderably. In Europe, skin cancer final formulation. troduced in North America and is expected to become increas- Europe last year, and about 10 ingly prevalent over the coming COSSMA: How can these chal- percent in Latin America and decades. In the US, the percent- lenges be overcome? Asia Pacific. age of people who develop MM has more than doubled in the ULI OSTERWALDER: The industry COSSMA: What, according to past 30 years. According to sta- is working on finding new cos- Lotions, creams you, are currently the most inno- tistics from the Skin Cancer Foun- metic oils to better solubilize the and gel-creams vative sun care formulations? dation , one in every five US solid UVA/broad-spectrum UV represent approx- Americans will develop skin can- filters. Another alternative is to imately 60 per- ULI OSTERWALDER: The most in- cer in their lifetime. The highest encapsulate or mill insoluble UV cent of the recent novative sun care products pro- incidence of skin cancer occurs filters to nano-size so that they launches vide a light and dry feeling after in Australia and New Zealand, do not need to be dissolved in oil. application. They feature the where the annual MM rates are, consistency and sensory effect for women, 10 times the rates in COSSMA: What are the latest known from skin care products Europe, and over 20 times the trends in effective sun protection such as body lotions, but still European rates for men, by ac- formulations? provide the highest possible UV count of the organization AIM at protection. Melanoma 2. On a positive note, ULI OSTERWALDER: Looking at skin cancer incidence rates product launches, we see various COSSMA: How has the incidence among the young generation trends in the different regions. of skin cancer developed global- have recently decreased in Aus- Among the high diversity of for- ly in recent years? tralia thanks to 30 years of the mats available, lotions, creams “SunSmart” prevention cam- and gel-creams remain the pre- ULI OSTERWALDER: Skin cancer paign. □ ferred types of products. Sub-seg- is responsible for one in every 1 www.basf.com/sunscreen-simulator ments may have different for- three cancers diagnosed, and its 2 www.aimatmelanoma.org Additional information can be found on the Internet mats, such as roll-on products for global incidence continues to – see Internet panel Shutterstock.com Faraktinov, Konstantin photo: 18 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2016 www.cossma.com E51280 1–2/2016 COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING WWW.COSSMA.COM GO FUTURE: SUN CARE The US’s gap in UVA protection SPOTLIGHT: CUSTOMISATION The trend put into perspective Kevin Gallagher, Croda “ LIMITLESS POTENTIAL ” DR.
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