Nordstrom Canada: What's Ahead

DAILY EDITION OCTOBER 20, 2016 1

Spreading Out Fit at 70 Combo Beat Saks Fifth Avenue opens its Doneger Group is marking Paul Smith will combine his first freestanding 10022-Shoe seven decades of tracking the men’s and women’s shows store in Greenwich, Conn. changes in fashion and retail. in Paris come January. Page 4 Page 9 Page 3 Fashion. Beauty. Business.

BUSINESS Nordstrom Canada: What’s Ahead ● The retailer is in the early innings of its Canada rollout.

BY DAVID MOIN

TORONTO — How far will Nordstrom Inc. take its Canadian expansion? For sure, there have been hiccups as well as upside surprises — some seasonal misses and shipping challenges, along with better-than-expected designer sales and tourist turnouts. The Nordstroms also say their two-year- old Canada business is operating above plan and that they have an “opportunistic” approach to real estate that could take the store count beyond the six full-line stores and five Rack off-price units already set. “You’ve got to get scale so you can leverage that and create opportunities for CONTINUED ON PAGE 10

FASHION Tommy Hilfiger’s Tell- All: “American Dreamer” ● The designer describes the setbacks and comebacks in building a global lifestyle brand.

BY LISA LOCKWOOD

Tommy Hilfiger has seen his first company go bankrupt, watched as his own brand became a hip-hop sensation and then just as rapidly shunned, built it back RainSlick anoraks are one of the leading outerwearMan trends for spring. The up again after it was sold and dealt with it being sold a second time. In his personal protective rainwear classic has made a comeback in semisheer nylons, life, he’s been divorced, remarried and stretch silks and performance fabrics, with color-blocked designs and bold seen his children struggle with disease and special needs. He’s mingled with rock stars prints that make it a must-have outerwear staple. For more, see pages 5 and 6. and celebrities, bought major artworks, traveled the world and lives in lavish homes in Greenwich, Conn., Miami and Mustique. Throughout it all, Hilfiger has remained an “American Dreamer.” And that’s the title of his surprisingly honest new memoir, which is subtitled “My Life in Fashion & Business.” In the book, the designer chronicles the highs and painful lows (both personally and professionally) of building Den Im’s nylon anorak and a megabrand that combined his love of Tomas Maier’s nylon trunks. Photograph by Joshua Scott; Grooming by Amanda Wilson; Model: Lane McAllister at IMG; Styling by Luis Campuzano Luis at IMG; Styling by McAllister Amanda Wilson; Model: Lane by Grooming Scott; Joshua by Photograph CONTINUED ON PAGE 7

OCTOBER 20, 2016 3

FASHION Paul Smith Set to Combine Shows TOP 5 ● The designer is taking his combine its men’s and women’s collec- women’s show on the road — tions on one catwalk, although it has yet TRENDING to say whether it will show to the men’s ON WWD.COM to Paris — combining it with or women’s schedule, while Dsquared2 his men’s runway outing. will show its men’s and women’s collections during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. BY SAMANTHA CONTI Bottega Veneta showed men’s and women’s together in October and its creative LONDON — Paul Smith is taking his wom- director Tomas Maier indicated it may en’s show on the road — to Paris — com- continue to do so in seasons ahead. bining it with his men’s runway outing Paul Smith said because the women’s for the first time as part of a new strategy, collections have always had a direct WWD has learned. design association with the men’s - and a Smith’s co-ed catwalk show will take traditional focus on tailoring - it was natu- place Jan. 22 and bridge men’s fashion ral to show the collections together. week and Paris Couture shows. The The announcement comes nearly a British designer, whose women’s shows year after Paul Smith revealed plans to usually take place during London Fashion streamline his labeling in a bid to simplify Week, said it’s a natural step. his offer in the eyes of consumers and “As an independent business, we can strengthen the core name. be very agile and address the changes Beginning with fall 2016 the designer in the evolving market in interesting consolidated his seven collections under ways,” said Smith, adding Paris is where two labels, Paul Smith and PS by Paul he launched his brand in the Seventies. Smith. “Exciting times ahead!” Paul Smith includes ready-to-wear, First Lady According to the company, the show footwear and accessories for men and will close Paris men’s fashion week and women. Smith’s handwritten signature Michelle Obama open Paris Couture. logo appears on the labels and of the While Smith may be a Nottingham, men’s and women’s collections, which are Wears Versace England, native with his company Sir Paul Smith both shown on the runway. headquarters based in London, Paris has PS by Paul Smith is more accessible in For Italian State always been part of the DNA of his busi- On receiving the French award, Smith terms of product, price and distribution ness. His first shop, which opened in Not- talked about his 40-year relationship with and includes clothing, denim, footwear Dinner Featuring tingham in 1970, was called Paul Smith France and Paris in particular. “I’ve had and accessories for men and women. It is Vêtements pour Hommes — not that he 80 fashion shows in Paris and five shops. presented four times a year in Paul Smith Plenty of spoke much French at the time — and six Outside of Paris I’ve got strong relation- showrooms worldwide. years later he showed his first men’s wear ships all over the country. It’s a wonderful Last year, Smith also reorganized his American Talent collection in Paris. honor to receive this accolade.” design studio, naming the company’s ● Chef Mario Batali Since then, he’s been showing his Smith has become the latest London first creative director, Simon Homes. The prepared the evening’s meal, men’s collection in the French capital designer to combine his men’s and wom- men’s and women’s teams now sit next to and has five boutiques there, as well as a en’s collections on one catwalk. Burberry each other, sharing fabrics and working which is expected to be the French headquarters. staged its first see-now-buy-now co-ed in parallel. Obamas’ final state dinner at Earlier this year, the designer received show last month while during the June Smith remains the majority share- the Légion d’honneur, France’s highest dis- men’s shows in London, brands including holder, with a 60 percent stake in his the White House. tinction, in recognition of his career-long Coach, Sibling, Bobby Abley and Agi & namesake company, while Itochu, his ties with France. His official title is Officier Sam all showed women’s wear. longtime Japanese licensee, holds the ● Zac Posen Helps Delta in the Order of the Légion d’honneur. Starting next year, Gucci plans to remaining 40 percent. Unveil His New Uniform Designs Manufactured by Lands’ End

BUSINESS He also called the market estimates of ● Eddie Borgo Joins Tiffany 2.45 billion euros, or $2.69 billion, for & Co. As Collaborator Carrefour’s earnings before interest and Carrefour Stock Rises tax this year “still achievable.” ● Agnese Landini Wears “As far as the guidance is concerned, Ermanno Scervino I think we have clearly a market situa- To U.S. State Dinner tion with strong competition on prices, On Q3 Sales Increase promotion, [a] slow consumption ● Drunk Elephant: Beauty’s ● Revenues at the world’s stood at 3.1 percent, up from an increase environment that is present today and in Next Acquisition? of 2.7 percent in the second quarter. this context as a leader we have decided second-largest retailer Investors responded positively to the to gain foothold,” he continued, adding advanced 1.1 percent in the quarterly results, pushing Carrefour stock that’s being done “with a more aggres- period, beating financial up 4.7 percent by the close of the Paris sive approach, price promotion, loyalty NEWSMAKERS analysts’ estimates. Bourse on Wednesday to 24.57 euros, or program, communication.” $26.95 at current exchange. Carrefour said it closed or disposed of This Week’s Most BY JENNIFER WEIL “Overall, Carrefour showed good 126 stores in the third quarter, bringing its Talked About Names momentum illustrated by a return to total network to 11,812 as of Sept. 30. PARIS — Carrefour SA stock advanced like-for-like growth in France, over chal- During the first nine months of 2016, In Our Industry strongly on Wednesday after the company lenging comps, with good performance the retailer registered sales of 62.33 reported a rise in sales during the third in food,” said Pierre-Jean Sivignon, billion euros, or $69.57 billion at average quarter, boosted by business in Latin Carrefour’s chief financial officer, during exchange rates, down 2.4 percent in America and an improvement in France, a call with bankers and journalists on reported terms and up 2.9 percent on an its largest market. Wednesday morning. He was referring to organic basis. Revenues at the world’s second-big- the 1.2 percent sales rise in the compa- Looking ahead to the fourth quarter, gest retailer behind Wal-Mart Stores ny’s home market. Sivignon expects markets will remain Inc. advanced 1.1 percent during the The executive also highlighted the competitive, while Carrefour continues three months ended Sept. 30 to 21.78 company’s strong like-for-like gains in investing in its future. Tommy Hilfiger Virgil Abloh billion euros, or $24.32 billion at average most European countries and another “We are modernizing our stores. We exchange rates. The turnout broadly “excellent” performance in Latin Amer- are enhancing the attractiveness of our beat financial analysts’ median consen- ica, where revenues were up 14.2 percent, sites. We are expanding our store net- sus estimations of 21.71 billion euros, or including a 12.4 percent gain in Brazil on work, both organically as well as through $24.24 billion. a comparable basis. targeted acquisitions. We are accelerating Negative currency effects and petrol Sivignon further pointed to a sequen- our digital transformation in every coun- prices unfavorably impacted revenues by tial improvement in China, where the try. Our ongoing efforts to revamp our 1.7 percent and 0.8 percent, respectively. pace of decline was 7.8 percent in like- supply chain, as well as rationalize our IT Olivier Rousteing Ivanka Trump Excluding petrol and calendar impacts, for-like terms, versus 9.3 percent in the backbone, are making further headway,”

Smith photograph by Brian To/WWD/REX/Shutterstock; Obama by Monsivais/AP/REX/Shutterstock; Hilfiger by Giovanni Gianonni/WWD/REX/Shutterstock; Abloh by Francois Goizé; Rousteing by Kevin Tachman; Trump by Erik Pendzich/REX/Shutterstock by Trump Tachman; Kevin by Rousteing Goizé; Francois Abloh by Gianonni/WWD/REX/Shutterstock; Giovanni Hilfiger by Monsivais/AP/REX/Shutterstock; Obama by Brian To/WWD/REX/Shutterstock; by Smith photograph Carrefour’s organic gains in the period second quarter. he said. OCTOBER 20, 2016 4

Inside the first freestanding 10022-Shoe store.

The Dries Van Noten display at 10022-Shoe.

BUSINESS Saks Fifth Avenue Showcases Footwear With a Freestanding Format ● The luxury retailer is also has 18 labels Saks didn’t carry before rest of the store. interactive,” added Tracy Margolies, Saks’ establishing a quartet in Greenwich. Three steps down off the landing is the chief merchant. Marc Metrick, president of Saks, has said more formal, main area for the bulk of the While the new 10022-Shoe store does of specialty stores in the existing women’s store in Greenwich, assortment, which is elegantly presented. stand alone, it’s very much connected to Greenwich, Conn. which will be renovated next year, has Brands are shown amid an array of fixtures the big picture strategy at Saks, Metrick been “one of our most productive stores in in a mix of finishes from marble and chrome emphasized. “We are nimble. We are BY DAVID MOIN the company.” to printed velvets, suede and gold plated, transforming. We can’t be cookie cutter.” GREENWICH, Conn. — Saks Fifth Ave- On Wednesday, WWD got a preview of several in unusual amorphous shapes. He said with the Greenwich complex, the nue’s first freestanding Saks 10022-Shoe the shoe store, which was a former Urban Metrick described the setting as cool, company is being opportunistic to satisfy store — a format the luxury retailer contem- Outfitters unit and which was designed comfortable and conducive to shoppers the needs of the area. “In a market like plated for years until the real estate and in collaboration with the firm FRCH. It’s interacting with associates and with other this, this is a perfect play. In a neighbor- timing were just right — debuts here today. merchandised by brand. Up front is a gen- shoppers. “It will be very interesting to hood like this, smaller is bigger,” he said. It’s a 14,000-square-foot, split-level erously spaced landing area, providing an see how customers respond. Shopping “Between Greenwich, our Fifth Avenue location at 20 Elm Street filled with ample view of most of the store, and a few has become a lot more about sharing. To flagship renovation and our renovation established and advanced designers and display areas to highlight some key ath- provide that residential feel is important. in the Walt Whitman mall in Huntington, upscale brands, from Adidas and Puma letic labels, as well as for Dries Van Noten We really want people to feel comfort- N.Y., in 2018, we are solidifying Saks’ athletic footwear to studded Valentino and Tabitha Simmons. With its exposed, able,” he said. position in the New York metro area. It’s a evening styles as well as emerging labels painted-brick walls, exposed ceiling and “It is industrial but it’s not cold. It’s big, big part of our strategy,” said Metrick, with a contemporary bent such as Tabitha track lighting, the area is distinct from the a warm environment, very social and who also cited the planned store in the Simmons, Aquazzura and Paul Andrew. American Dream mall in the Meadowlands Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, in New Jersey. “We are going after the New Nicholas Kirkwood and Stuart Weitzman York market in a bigger way than ever. We are also among the many labels displayed, believe we are creating new, unbelievable creating a high-end offering ranging from experiences for our customers.” casual to special occasion — stilettos, In Greenwich, shopping the different sandals, sneakers, boots, platforms and categories at Saks will require a short stroll high heels. by customers to each door, rather than The store is a block and half from the having it all under one roof. But Saks exec- existing Saks Fifth Avenue women’s store utives say getting women to cross shop at 205 Greenwich Ave., as well as from won’t be a problem since on busy days, the sites where the retailer will next year there will be plenty of sales help — up to 23 debut two other specialty formats: The associates at 10022-Shoe — who will escort Collective for contemporary women’s customers from door to door. apparel and The Vault for fine jewelry. As a personal shopping service, associ- The Collective and The Vault shops ates upon request will have ready-to-wear will be housed in the same building, 200 from the women’s store awaiting clients Greenwich Ave., but are not contiguous. who may just want to be at the shoe store. They have different entrances and are “The relationships customers have with separated by the Sandro and Sweaty associates will drive the customer across Betty stores. the street to the different categories,” Together, the quartet of specialty stores Metrick said. “Our associates are trained to has been designated The Saks Shops sell all [four] stores. in Greenwich. It’s a unique complex of “And if you think about the proximity, retail space, enabling the company to you are actually closer to each category grow its various women’s businesses and than you would be shopping our New York potentially capture greater sales in the City flagship.” well-heeled Greenwich area. For exam- As another service, shoppers can aggre- ple, there are 1,500 stockkeeping units in gate packages from the four stores and get the new freestanding 10022-Shoe store, free same-day delivery provided it’s within compared to the 500 that were housed a 10-mile radius of The Saks Shops in Green- in just a 2,700-square-foot space in the The residential setting for wich, and before 2 p.m. “I really believe 10022-Shoe in Greenwich. Photographs by George Chinsee George by Photographs women’s store. The new 10022-Shoe store people will go from store to store,” he said. OCTOBER 20, 2016 5

Spring Showers Protective rainwear makes the transition to summer as anoraks are reworked to be multiseasonal. Semisheer nylons, stretch silks, colorblocking and bold prints with understated silver hardware break the minimalist appeal of this outerwear staple. BY LUIS CAMPUZANO

Matiere’s polyester tissue crepe anorak and Robert Geller’s cupro shorts.

North Sails’ polyamide, nylon and elastane anorak and Landlord’s

Photographs by Joshua Scott; Grooming by Amanda Wilson; Model: Lane McAllister at IMG; Styling by Luis Campuzano Luis at IMG; Styling by McAllister Amanda Wilson; Model: Lane by Grooming Scott; Joshua by Photographs polyester mesh shorts. OCTOBER 20, 2016 6

Tommy Hilfiger’s polyamide anorak.

Nautica’s nylon anorak and Michael Kors’ cotton shorts.

Deveaux’s stretch silk anorak and Matiere’s polyester tissue

my late 70s, 80s. But then I thought, I might Tommy Hilfiger’s Tell-All: forget. I want my children to hear the whole “American Dreamer” life story. They’ve heard bits and pieces over the years, but they’ve never heard the CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 entire story in chronological order. WWD: Do you have an incredible mem- fashion, music and pop culture. ory? There are so many details in the book. Hilfiger, 65, opens up about his child- T.H.: I didn’t realize I had an incred- hood growing up as one of nine children ible memory. Telling Peter the story, I in Elmira, N.Y., and being a big disappoint- remember what I was wearing and what ment to his father. He describes being a other people were wearing. And I remem- newspaper boy, working in a sporting goods ber what we were eating and drinking. I store, his learning issues in school, flunking remember smells, I remember going into sophomore year in high school, opening this boutique in St. Marks in 1969, and I People’s Place stores in upstate New York at remember what it smelled like. the age of 18 and then taking his eye off the WWD: What was the hardest part of ball and going bankrupt by 25 years old. writing the book? Moving to New York City to pursue his T.H.: The hardest part of writing the dream of designing his own collection, book really was talking about the struggles Hilfiger takes on a variety of design jobs I had with my dad. Then, of course, every and ends up turning down an offer from time I think about the bankruptcy I had Calvin Klein to design jeans-casualwear in my 20s. Even though I viewed it as my because something better came along — an M.B.A., it was a hard time. And then at the opportunity from Mohan Murjani to design end of the Nineties, when Tommy Hilfiger his own Tommy Hilfiger men’s wear label. started slowing, it was frightening. My sit- Later, Silas Chou and Lawrence Stroll (who uation with Susie when our marriage was taught him to “think big”) entered the in trouble was very difficult. There were picture and the fortunes started rolling some tough moments. in. The company went public in 1992 and WWD: What parts didn’t you want enjoyed a great run in such categories as to put into the book that you ended up women’s wear, Hilfiger Denim, kids’ wear, putting in? accessories, fragrance and home — fre- T.H.: A lot of the personal stuff. I didn’t quently aligning with pop-culture icons, really want to put a lot of personal things such as The Rolling Stones, Lenny Kravitz, in the book. But I thought that if I didn’t David Bowie and Beyoncé. become fully transparent, the book In the book, Hilfiger discusses the compe- wouldn’t have authenticity. I just had to tell tition at that time and where he saw himself the story the way it is. One of the reasons fitting in. “In 1992 and 1993, Ralph [Lauren] I was so transparent in the book was, two probably wasn’t very happy with us. My Tommy Hilfiger in 1986. years ago, Diane von Furstenberg sent me intent was never to copy him. I wanted to be Tommy Jeans’ her book, I read it on Christmas vacation newer and fresher and younger, and hipper 1999 campaign. and it was so inspiring because it was real; and cooler. But we all liked Ralph’s business she opened her heart. I never wanted to model: the basics, classics and fashion deliv- put the book down because it was so open ered on a regular basis; the in-store shops; and transparent. the stand-alone shops; the advertising; the WWD: What do you consider the best lifestyle image. I particularly admired his period in your life? company’s replenishment operation in T.H.: The best period in my life is right department stores, which we adopted.” now. Life keeps getting better. I’m very He cites his models in the business, call- happy with my family life. I’m happy ing Lauren and Klein the “Rolls Royce and where my children are at this point in Mercedes-Benz” of the design world, and time. I’m happy with the business. I see referred to himself as the Audi. “I thought, great progress with what we’re doing with if I continue to expand the product line, Gigi [Hadid’s] see-now-buy-now; the whole get it in the right stores, improve the structure of the business is very solid and design, fit and quality, I’m going to move strong. I’ve got great business associates up to being a Porsche,” he writes. and partners and an amazing team. I have While his signature was classics with a an amazing marriage with Dee and I’m twist, Hilfiger ultimately became a sensa- really in a great place. tion with the hip-hop community, which WWD: In the book, you talk about how embraced his oversize jeans and logoed you and your father never got along and he sweatshirts (Snoop Dogg wore Hilfiger’s mistreated you. Did you ever make peace red, white and blue rugby with “Tommy” with your dad and did he live to see your huge on his chest when he was on “Satur- tremendous success? day Night Live” and reorders went crazy). T.H.: Yes, I did make peace with my “That was the night that made Tommy dad, and he did see my success. Unfor- Hilfiger supremely cool with the youth,” tunately he is no longer living but he was writes Hilfiger. Springs, Calif., psychic in 1983 who told child. I started telling him all my stories very proud. He died in 1989. I wanted to But the hip-hop world moved on, the Hilfiger he would be “very, very successful;” as far back as I remember it. Keeping it prove to him that I could actually become line became ubiquitous, overdistributed descriptions of his homes in Greenwich and in chronological order helped me weave successful. I think he saw I was really very and highly promotional and started spiral- Mustique; his friendships with Quincy Jones, the story through many, many years. But focused and serious and productive. I ing downward by the early Aughts, and it Sean “Diddy” Combs, Lenny Kravitz, Mick at times, I would go back and say, “Oh, I think that put him at ease. needed to cut back substantially. Jagger and Tommy Mottola, to name a few; forgot to tell you the time I visited Michael WWD: What would you consider the key At one point, Hilfiger’s board considered the painful divorce from his first wife, Susie Jackson’s house in California,” or “I forget turning points in your life? selling the company to Iconix, which was Hilfiger; his daughter Ally’s battle with Lyme to tell you the story of Lenny Kravitz, or T.H.: One was my early bankruptcy negotiating an exclusive deal with Wal- disease; a brush-up with Axl Rose at a New the time I first met Silas Chou.” because it really forced me to learn about Mart Stores Inc. While Hilfiger couldn’t York nightclub; having a child with special WWD: Did you get Peter Knobler full the fashion business, another turning point deny the fact that having a vast amount needs and eventually meeting and marrying access to all your friends and family? was when I met Mohan Murjani, another of money would open up new worlds, he Dee Ocleppo. T.H.: Yes, he talked to Silas, he talked to was when I met Silas Chou and Lawrence writes, “I enjoyed my glamorous life and Hilfiger wrote his memoir (Ballantine Joel [Horowitz], he talked to a number of Stroll, and another was our IPO in 1992. the culture, scenes and people I encoun- Books, an imprint of Random House, $30) friends and family. At the same time, we were Estée Lauder’s tered because of it, and I wasn’t certain I with Peter Knobler, who has collaborated WWD: How long did the book take to first licensee thanks to Leonard and Evelyn. would be enthralled with going to Benton- on several bestsellers, including Sumner write? Estée didn’t want any other brands but ville, Ark., and servicing that client solely.” Redstone’s “A Passion to Win,” and Mary T.H.: It took over a year. I would meet Leonard convinced her we would be a good The company eventually was sold to Matalin and James Carville’s “All’s Fair.” with him for blocks of time, I would say one. Tommy and Tommy Girl broke all Apax Partners and taken private, and Here, Hilfiger talks about the turning twice a month, sometimes two, three days records of sales and became number one did an exclusive deal with Macy’s in the points and challenges in his career and the in a row. Sometimes a full day, or an after- for five straight years, earning us multiple U.S., while retaining a separate affordable process of writing his life story. noon. I would meet him in New York, some- FiFi awards. In my personal life, it was luxury line globally. Things started clicking WWD: Why did you decide now was the times in Connecticut, he met me in Miami. when each one of my children was born; again. The brand was later sold to PVH time to write your biography? We spent a lot of time together. And a lot of Susie and I had a lot of great times together, Corp. In 2015, Hilfiger generated $6.5 Tommy Hilfiger: I was hesitant to write meals together. We tried to keep very clear and my marriage to Dee is fantastic. billion in global retail sales. it, but thought I better do it now because headed. I’ve been approached by different WWD: In the book you write that Sebas- Hilfiger’s book contains plenty of personal someday I may forget. We sat for hours people over the years. I felt I didn’t want tian, the son that you had with Dee, is on

Photographs by Peter Arnell/Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger and Douglas Keeve/Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger Tommy of Hilfiger and Douglas Keeve/Courtesy Tommy of Arnell/Courtesy Peter by Photographs revelations as well, such as a visit to a Palm on end. We really started with me as a to do it until I got much older, when I’m in CONTINUED ON PAGE 8 OCTOBER 20, 2016 8

WWD: You mentioned in the book that Tommy Hilfiger’s Tell-All: you had three options to sell the com- “American Dreamer” pany. Iconix wanted to do a deal with Wal-Mart, Sun Capital wanted to take it CONTINUED FROM PAGE 7 to a store like J.C. Penney or Kohl’s, and Apax wanted to keep it as an affordable the spectrum of autism. How is he doing? luxury brand like it was in Europe. Have T.H.: He’s doing well. We caught it early. you thought about what would have hap- It’s still a struggle because you need ther- pened if you took it downmarket? apy. I feel badly for families who don’t have T.H.: Although it [the Iconix-Wal-Mart the wherewithal to have the right therapy scenario] was a multibillion dollar idea, it for their children who are on the spectrum. was not interesting to me, because I really WWD: Any regrets? wanted to continue to realize the dream. T.H.: I don’t have a lot of regrets. Many WWD: You don’t think that dream would times I think if I had gone to college, I have happened if it was at Wal-Mart? might have avoided my Chapter 11 and T.H.: I don’t think it would have been maybe I would have had a better handle able to morph into a global designer life- on the business. But I wouldn’t have had a style brand and that was my dream. business if I’d gone to college. I started my WWD: Do you think that your first mar- business right out of high school. riage to Susie didn’t survive because of all WWD: As a child you had dyslexia. Do your fame and success and your desire to you still suffer from it? live a high-flying lifestyle? Did she want a T.H.: I just had to learn how to read in simpler life? a different way. I think I cured myself. It’s T.H.: I think it had an effect on it. My life not like I took medication or went to a spe- has really been full-on. From the day we cialist. I forced myself to read each word as launched Tommy Hilfiger, from traveling it presented itself, rather than attempting to factories and all different parts of the to speed read or read like a normal person. world, going on personal appearance WWD: When you write in the book that tours, to opening stores all over the world, your initial partners ( Joel Horowitz, Silas to going on photo shoots. Chou and Lawrence Stroll) were leaving, WWD: Did you consider the “Hangman” Susie wanted a divorce and you were suf- campaign where you compared yourself fering from hepatitis C, did you think you to three other “Great American Designers had hit rock bottom? How did you manage for Men” at the time — Ralph Lauren, Perry to keep it together? Ellis and Calvin Klein — as a critical junc- The “Hangman” T.H.: I’m really a very positive-minded ture to becoming well known? campaign in 1985. person. I just had to get through this T.H.: That was another critical turning period. I got my health better and had point. As you know, I was hesitant and magic. I’m grateful I had incredible part- was meant to be was meant to be. I was to be there for my children and remain credit George Lois for being the genius that ners all this time. I never would have been happy to help young people who come friendly and on good terms with Susie, and he is because he said, “This is how you’re able to do it without superstar partners. to me for advice. Many people helped me I had to do whatever I could do to fix the going to be known overnight.” He was not WWD: At one point in the book you along the way. business. Fortunately, Fred Gehring, our wrong. Immediately after, the name became write that, “No one is an inventor in the WWD: How would you describe the former chief executive officer, really had known. It was overnight. It was amazing. fashion business. Designers recreate fash- David Dyer era? (Dyer was president and the magic formula, which was what he was WWD: How did you handle that some ion.” Do you really believe that? ceo of Hilfiger from 2003 to 2006) doing in Europe with the business. The people didn’t think you deserved to be T.H.: Yes, I don’t think generally T.H.: I would describe it as a time period formula was right in front of us. So when comparing yourself to Perry Ellis, Calvin speaking, there are a lot of innovators and whereby we lacked direction and I just Fred came to me and wanted me to be part Klein and Ralph Lauren, and that you inventors. Many of the designers take what wasn’t happy with the direction we were of a group to take the company private, the hadn’t earned that respect yet. Did that exists already and update it or make it mapping out for the future. roadmap was there. Although it took a few motivate you? Did you feel unaccepted by relevant for today. But true inventors have WWD: How did you feel when Joel years, it was very inspiring. the design community? never been seen before. Bill Gates is a real stepped down and Silas and Lawrence WWD: What advice would you give a T.H.: Yes, it was a moment of disbelief. I inventor. I don’t think fashion designers sold? teenager looking to drop out of college like thought, ‘Wait a minute, do I even believe invent anything new. They innovate new T.H.: That wasn’t a happy period for me. you did and pursue his or her passions to I can live up to that? The only way it will ways to make fashion. WWD: Whom do you credit for getting open a clothing store and a head shop? happen is to really roll up my sleeves, put WWD: If you had a chance to do it all the business back on track? T.H.: I think if a young person is passion- my nose to the grindstone and make this again, would you have become so tight T.H.: I really credit Fred [Gehring] and ate about something specific, he or she happen.’ So Joel Horowitz, my partner at with the hip-hop community? Do you his leadership because he really figured should follow their passion. You look at Bill the time, said, “Don’t listen to what they’re believe that ultimately you damaged your out the formula for success in Europe. It Gates or Steve Jobs, all of these successes writing or what they’re saying. Let’s come brand when they abandoned you? Or did was his thought process to bring it back to in Silicon Valley, these people have had up with a great product and great image, that success propel it to heights that you the States and plant new seeds. Then we passion in a specific area and have there- and focus on the business.” He was a great never would have seen? [In one year, sales did the exclusive with Macy’s, which has fore succeeded. College isn’t for everyone. partner because he had a very solid, objec- increased by $100 million.] been a success and business is better than If you don’t have that passion or that spe- tive point of view. When Silas came along T.H.: I think that every chapter in my it’s ever been. I also credit Terry Lundgren cific focus in mind, I believe you should go it was a whole different story. Silas and business career was meant to be. It was for embracing us and giving us the support to university and get an education. Lawrence brought a whole different bag of really a fun time. Within a very short that was necessary to bring it back. amount of time, everyone was wearing WWD: Have you enjoyed your role as Tommy, and that was just an exciting ambassador of the brand and not having moment in my career. Now street fashion all the design responsibilities? is on all the runways in Paris. T.H.: I’m busier than I’ve ever been and WWD: Did it lead to losing your core happier than I’ve ever been. I don’t have customer? the burden of the day-to-day business. T.H.: I think we became much bigger Manny [Chirico, ceo] of PVH is doing an than we should have become. Our distri- incredible job with not only our brand, bution was too vast. We grew too fast. We but obviously Calvin. I feel that our lead- put up too many logos, it was a period of ership is better than ever and is as strong overdistribution, and it needed to shrink. as any leadership in the entire industry. We took the pill. Daniel Grieder, who is global ceo, is lead- WWD: You’re glad it happened that way? ing the charge and believes very strongly T.H.: We sort of knew it was growing out in social media and being on the edge of control. But as a public company, we from a technology standpoint; that is one needed to keep the stock growing and the of the reasons we have continued global shareholders happy. But we kept feeding growth. It takes a very special person to the beast. have that vision. He’s very strong and WWD: I guess you rode it up, but then confident in making decisions that keep Joel bore the brunt of having to explain to us on the edge of technology. Wall Street why it came tumbling own? WWD: How will you promote this book? T.H.: Yes [laughter]. It wasn’t funny at T.H.: I’m doing the talk shows, and book the time. We learned a lot. party here [in New York] Nov. 1 and one WWD: Do you have any regrets that you in Europe. We’ll do some appearances helped Sean Combs build his business in Europe and we’ll promote it in a very (Sean John), and then it took market share? strong way. I hope young people who are T.H.: I’ve always been a mentor to planning to build a brand read it and avoid Iman, Hilfiger and younger designers and people who have some of the pitfalls and maybe take advan- David Bowie in 2003. Iman, Hilfiger and Bowie photograph by Ellen Von Unwerth/Trunk Archive/Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger; Hangman by George Lois & Luke Lois & Luke Lois George Hilfiger; Hangman by Tommy of Archive/Courtesy Unwerth/Trunk Ellen Von by photograph Hilfiger and Bowie Iman, asked me for my advice. I also think what tage of some of the thought processes. OCTOBER 20, 2016 9

BUSINESS At 70, Doneger Group Keeps Evolving ● The president of the company image. Two years ago, Doneger set up discusses the secret sauce a leadership program to support career development for his team. There are 130 behind his firm’s longevity. employees in all. BY DAVID MOIN “We have a unique position in the industry,” Doneger emphasized. “We are Abbey Doneger, the president of The the only company that does what we do. Doneger Group, is talking about the sale We work at our business to become better of his company like it just happened every single day.” yesterday. In accounting for his firm’s longevity, he And he’s most excited about whom he points to several factors — staying relevant sold the company to — his employees. to a wider universe of clients; becoming Always effusive about The Doneger Group, consumer-centric; retaining clients at a high on this particular aspect of the firm he’s rate, and retaining employees at a high rate been relatively quiet. Yet on the eve of the and encouraging them to build a career at group’s 70th birthday, he’s eager to discuss Doneger. He said that over 50 percent of the state of the company, the secret sauce his employees have been with the group behind its longevity and how it’s prepared for more than 10 years, and that his client for the years ahead. retention rate is 95 percent-plus annually. “Everything we do, everything I do, is More than 50 percent of the clients have about long-term planning, long-term think- been with Doneger for at least 15 years. ing — how do we position the company for There was also a spree of acquisitions of the future? And in 2010 I completed the buying offices, mostly in the Eighties and sale of our company. We are an employee Nineties, which eliminated competitors stock ownership plan company.” ESOP, he and allowed Doneger to acquire talent and said, “provided for my family an oppor- competencies. “We have direct competitors tunity to diversify assets while simultane- Abbey Doneger only in one segment, in the color and trend ously providing a potentially significant business,” Doneger said. Instead, “We com- benefit for our employees.” Doneger said during an interview at his and consumer engagement. Tobe’s client pete with our self everyday. Our job is to be “I don’t have to worry or think about office. “They view us as an extension of base has extended beyond retailers to better at being Doneger — everyday. what lots of other business owners, entre- their own operations. We look at ourselves include consumer product firms, financial “We rebranded. Tobe repositioned. preneurs, independent companies may be as a trusted adviser to our clients. I feel like services, entertainment firms and shop- Doneger Creative Services expanded thinking about in terms of monetization we’ve earned that.” ping center developers. and repositioned. Price Point Buying has strategies. We are all set. I don’t have to The Doneger Group evolved from a The Price Point Buying division has evolved. Our merchandising team is more sell the company. It’s sold. It’s a good traditional buying office, a format that’s expanded from only identifying off-price and more focused on customization and thing.” The employee share distribution virtually extinct now, into developing cre- products to linking retailers with suppliers the level of talent within the organization is based on a complex actuarial formula ative merchandise and business strategies and assisting with direct-to-consumer drop is significantly greater than ever before,” including salaries, length of service and for retail, fashion and related industries on ship programs, and taking on a greater Doneger said. 401K contributions. a global level. number of international off-price retailers. Sources said the company generates The 65-year-old Doneger does have The core division is fashion merchandis- “Everything we do is customized,” about $25 million in volume, which hasn’t another issue to think about — determining ing, providing research, advice and strat- Doneger said, so his team can meet changed much in the last ten years. About a successor. “Specifically, my role over the egies for women’s, men’s and children’s different client’s needs, whether it’s to 20 percent of the business is international. next coming years is to develop a succes- apparel as well as accessories and foot- tap into the rebounding denim business Doneger acknowledged the impact of sion plan.” wear. The division serves better indepen- or buy-now wear-now trends, or update the recession and addressed the revenue It’s not like he’s leaving anytime soon. dent specialty stores, national specialty holiday sweaters, or pump up some other stagnation by saying, “The number-one “All my friends are out golfing; I love store chains, department stores, off-price category or classification. “They are look- metric that I use to measure where we are going to work.” He started at the firm as chains, mass merchants and e-tailers, ing to us for direction, for us to evaluate. is client retention. Without client reten- an assistant dress buyer in 1973, became about 300 in all. In addition to New York, They bounce ideas off us. We are part of tion, we have nothing. Because of our president in 1980 and worked closely for the company operates the Doneger-owned their team as it relates to their strategic client retention, I feel we have everything. two decades with the founder of the firm, Directives West office in the California Mar- thinking. Our edit, our curation of what’s We don’t grow the topline for growth’s his father, the late Henry Doneger. ket Center in Los Angeles, as its West Coast happening in our industry, from a product sake. Everything we do is strategic in Tonight, The Doneger Group will merchandising arm. point of view, from an idea point of view, nature. Over the years we have added celebrate its 70th anniversary at its The Doneger Creative Services division from a strategy point of view, is very, very services and enhanced divisions while 45,000-square-foot, recently remodeled specializes in color, fabric and trend fore- important. Retailers are looking to us more fine-tuning other areas. We have success- offices at 463 Seventh Avenue. In light of casting and recently added some new ser- and more. It’s not enough to provide a top fully and profitably navigated through the the firm’s longevity and relevance in a vices, including branding and marketing. ten list of best-selling items or brands. We significant consolidation in the industry, fast-changing industry, scores of fashion The Tobe unit has evolved from a mar- dig deeper into the why and how of it.” while positioning our company uniquely. executives, clients, as well as friends and ket report into a “think tank” reporting on In the past year, the company rebranded “My father said to me early on, ‘If you family are expected. consumer and cultural shifts, what’s driv- itself, with a new logo (which is actually have good people, if you provide a good “We are fortunate in that some of the ing spending behavior and creative strate- Doneger’s father’s signature) and reno- service, you’ll have a great company.’ We best retailers in the world are our clients,” gies in business development, marketing vated offices to project a more modern never had a year where we lost money.”

The Doneger Group Through The Years

1946 1985 1995 2006 Henry Doneger and partner Jack The company’s most direct Henry Doneger, Fashion Institute of Technology establishes Lasersohn form a resident buying competitor, Steinberg-Kass, is founder and chairman, dies. scholarships and a computer lab in memory of office named Lasersohn-Doneger. acquired, creating the largest Henry Doneger. independent women’s specialty 1997 1964 store buying office in the nation. Color Projections acquired, expanding the 2008 Henry Doneger buys out Jack Laser- previously formed D3 fashion trend and Directives West merchandising sohn and forms Henry Doneger 1988 color forecast division. consulting firm acquired. Associates. Price Point Buying is formed; Indepen- dent Retailers Syndicate department 2003 2012 1973 store buying office acquired, leading Abbey Doneger, son of Henry Doneger Creative Services is established to Abbey Doneger receives Accessories Council to the creation of children’s and men’s incorporate color and trend forecasting units. Hall of Fame Award. Doneger, joins the company as an wear divisions. assistant dress buyer. 2005 2014 1980 1989 Tobe, publisher of The Tobe Report, Huepoint, a provider of color trends and color Abbey Doneger named president; The company reorganizes into The acquired; Here & There, a trend and color marketing strategies, acquired. Henry Doneger continues as ceo Doneger Group, comprising all divi- forecasting business, acquired and integrated and chairman. The acquisition spree sions and entities. in DCS. 2015 begins with the purchase of the Gor- Company rebrands; Abbey Doneger honored by don/Horowitz buying office. UJA with the Fashion Division Service Award. Photograph by George Chinsee George by Photograph OCTOBER 20, 2016 10

and make sure we are not going faster than Nordstrom Canada: our talent infrastructure can handle. That’s What’s Ahead a long-term view, as opposed to a short- term view.” CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 Nordstrom is trying to hire as many Canadians as possible rather than trans- things like the Rack, establishing an online planting U.S. workers, and has flown business and establishing a credit card. Canadians to the company’s store in Bel- Could we have a few more full-line stores? levue, Wash., for training. For the Toronto That remains to be seen,” Pete Nordstrom, opening, new-to-Nordstrom department copresident of Nordstrom Inc., told WWD managers were partnered with the most during an interview at the company’s new experienced managers from the Vancou- store in the CF Toronto Eaton Centre. “It’s ver, Seattle, Bellevue, Fashion Valley, Mich- an opportunistic situation. With six, we igan Avenue and Oakbrook, Ill., stores for a start to have some scale. If a great opportu- five-week “immersive” training program. nity comes up where we think we could do With the rush of international retail well, we will look at it. into Canada, including Saks Fifth Avenue, “To be clear, we are not looking for any Wal-Mart, Uniqlo, H&M, Costco and Apple, more today. We have the six. Let’s see how as well as the Toronto-based Holt Renfrew all that goes. And if opportunities present expanding its footprint, the Nordstroms themselves, we should evaluate them, one believe Canada, where people historically at a time. We are doing well. Our sales complained about the lack of choice, is in exceed our plan.” Nordstrom in danger of getting overstored. “That’s why The Vancouver flagship, which opened Toronto’s Eaton Centre. we are proceeding cautiously and pur- in September 2015 after earlier openings in posely,” Jamie Nordstrom said. Calgary and Ottawa, “was such a great posi- Initially, Nordstrom made some mer- tive experience for us and has done so well. chandise misses. “When we opened our That’s been gratifying,” Nordstrom added. store in Ottawa it was March and zero The company doesn’t break out its degrees out, and we had sundresses and Canada results from the rest of the Seat- sandals. People were skating to work,” tle-based chain, but did report that for Jamie Nordstrom said. “Seasonality is a the six months ended July 30, the Canada little different here. We’ve become more full-line stores, combined with Trunk Club thoughtful about that.” and Jeffrey boutiques, generated $249 “We knew it would be different in Can- million in sales. ada,” said Pete Nordstrom. “It was even “We don’t have the ‘mission accom- more different than we thought.” plished’ banner hung up there,” added On the other hand, he said, “The recep- Jamie Nordstrom, executive vice president tion to our designer offer has exceeded and president of stores. “We’ve got several our expectations. It’s done well across the years more of hard work in front of us to borders but in Canada even better. I think feel like we are firing on all cylinders. We Jamie and Pete it’s fair to say that there has not been as can’t issue credit cards in Canada yet. We Nordstrom openings of the first four Nordstrom much choice in Canada as there is in the don’t have a Canadian e-commerce site Canada stores. “They were incredibly well- U.S. Essentially what we offer is an alterna- and because of that we can’t do things like done, very well-attended with significant tive and more choice. It’s worked out well buy online, pick up in store. While we are amounts of shopping.” for us.” off to a really good start and the reception Nordstrom’s traffic in Eaton Centre Executives cited Balenciaga, Céline, from customers has been terrific, we are will be fueled by the concentration of law Delvaux, Saint Laurent, Loewe and Val- not yet offering the full deal. We are not firms, private equity companies and bank- entino as among the best-selling designer all we can be yet and it’s going to be a few ing headquarters in the area, considered labels at Nordstrom in Canada so far, years until we get there.” the financial center of the city. It’s also a though the labels are not necessarily car- In Toronto, “We are going to do a lot of subway hub. ried in all locations. business here,” he predicted. “Stores that Mark A. Cohen, director of retail studies Canada, said Jamie Nordstrom, “has we have opened in towns on the rise have and adjunct professor at the Columbia helped our partnerships with some been terrific. That’s what you are seeing University Graduate School of Business, designers. We are showing what we can here. This is boom town. I lost count of the had a different point of view on Eaton Cen- do and that opens doors for us. It’s hard to amount of cranes I’ve seen.” tre. “There’s lots of transit traffic, but not look at the designer business on its own.” On Thursday, the $14.5 billion Nord- lots of better business,” he said. “Sherway He sees a halo effect. “A healthy designer strom Inc. opens its fifth full-line store back wall.” Gardens is a somewhat upscale mall but business does so much for everything else in Canada, a 199,000-square-foot unit in The store will have 12 designer bou- the community it serves is not heavily pop- that we do.” Toronto’s upscale and highly productive tiques including Burberry, Valentino, ulated by truly upscale customers.” Canadian and U.S. consumers, generally Yorkdale Shopping Centre. The sixth full- Céline and Chloé, each selling handbags And Calgary’s Chinook Centre, where speaking, are “not that different,” Jamie line store will open in Sherway Gardens and apparel; Delvaux, Loewe and Valen- Nordstrom already has a store, “is the Nordstrom said. “The differences are more on Sept. 15, 2017, giving the retailer a third tino have handbag shops, and Akris and right place to be but the timing isn’t great. nuanced. The best thing we did here is full-line location in metropolitan Toronto. Dries Van Noten each have apparel shops. Calgary business is just OK. The Province that we tried to give them the best Nord- “Yorkdale represents our most direc- There is also the JWN Room for personal of Alberta is no longer booming, with the strom store we could, rather than the best tional store to date as we look towards our styling appointments. collapse of oil pricing,” Cohen said. Canadian Nordstrom store we could. Maybe Manhattan store opening in 2019,” said “After the Sherway Gardens full-line Regarding other Nordstrom locations, he there are some semantics with that, but Dawn Clark, Nordstrom’s vice president of store opens, Rack growth really kicks in,” was more positive. “I don’t think affluent we found that customers who knew us and store design. “We were able to start with Pete Nordstrom said, noting that the first customers in Vancouver flock to down- liked us wanted to see a version of us repli- a clean slate and build it from the ground Rack store in Canada will open at One town, although Nordstrom’s proximity cating what we have in the U.S. The nuances up,” unlike Nordstrom’s four other stores Bloor Street in Toronto in spring 2018. in Seattle and Vancouver’s heavy Asian we will learn over time, but let’s go in with in Canada, which are renovated former “We have announced five Racks,” added population work in their favor...Ottawa, the best Nordstrom store we could offer.” Sears properties with “design limitations in Jamie Nordstrom. “We think the market which is the country’s capital, is like Wash- According to Pete Nordstrom, the tourist their transformations.” supports 15 comfortably. Beyond that, as ington D.C. — recession proof — and Rideau factor has “probably been the biggest Yorkdale “incorporates advanced levels great locations become available we are Center [where Nordstrom has a full-line unknown we have dealt with.” Interior of openness and light in its design,” Clark able to be nimble and opportunistic.” store] is the right place to be in Ottawa. care tags on products are in multiple explained. “We’ve turned the store inside Opening six full-line stores in three years And Yorkdale Center will be a bull’s eye. languages per Canadian regulations; Van- out, peeled back the exterior walls and is aggressive for a department store, con- Bloor Street and Yorkdale are where all the couver and Toronto stores have “language replaced them with glass to bring in more sidering how online and mobile shopping better business in Toronto is done.” ambassadors” who speak different lan- natural light. The whole store becomes are stealing business from bricks-and-mor- With each opening in Canada, “We know guages to assist customers and in Toronto, a window and it features more windows tar retailing. Yet Canada gives Nordstrom a little bit more and hopefully we get a the ambassadors speak 40 languages, than any Nordstrom store. As day shifts an opportunity. little bit better and then with some scale, it including sign language. The languages are to night, the whole store will start to glow “Nordstrom fills a lot of the white space gets better too,” said Pete Nordstrom. “We indicated on their name tags. like a lantern, revealing what is happen- between two sectors — Harry Rosen, Holt should anticipate [business] being better In the Canada expansion, Nordstrom ing inside and deepening the connection Renfrew at the highest luxury end — and today than a year ago.” has also grappled with issues shipping between the store and the community. Hudson’s Bay and Simons at the department “Remember — a big part of this is our merchandise across the border, systems “We’ve also opened up our shoe stock- store level,” observed Antony Karabus, team,” said Jamie Nordstrom. “How much and exchange rates. “We are learning a rooms by using veils of transparency that chief executive officer of HRC Advisory and can it take on? We are building a really lot,” Jamie Nordstrom acknowledged. allow light to come through while main- a native of Canada. “There’s been nothing talented team in Canada. We are going to “What we are happy about is that over- taining the function of the space. There are in between, so Nordstrom’s merchandising need store managers for all of the Rack all, the team has been able to roll with very few solid department walls. Elevators crosses into the Bay, Holt’s and Harry Rosen. stores. They’re going to be Canadians. A the punches on all these things and the and dressing rooms float within the store “The stores are right on the money,” lot of them are sales people we just hired customer doesn’t suffer. We are operating

Photographs by Michael Hurcomb by Photographs environment rather than being buried in a added Karabus, who attended the for our stores. We need to do it organically really productive stores.” OCTOBER 20, 2016 11

FASHION Levi’s and Off-White: Behind Their Fall Collaboration

● Thanks to an intern and Rubchinskiy’s designs are actually for Virgil Abloh’s fondness of Levi’s Red Tab. The way the deals transpired also 501s, Made & Crafted and reflected a new way of doing business. the streetwear brand are The Levi’s team sent a message to designing jeans that push Rubchinskiy via his Instagram account. Abloh is a master of the instant pace, boundaries. authentic attitude and multimedia BY KHANH T.L. TRAN mash-up that eludes some older mar- keters. “It’s a mix of paper and text messages and words and sending ref- The story behind the collaboration erence photos by instant messaging,” between denim behemoth Levi’s and Cheung said. “It’s a three-dimensional buzzy streetwear label Off-White fell into way of working.” the familiar pattern of many modern Once Cheung texted him that Levi’s romances — it involved youth and Eureka Innovation Lab had an opening passion. to make 100 pieces in August, Abloh The youth was an intern who flagged didn’t hesitate to create a one-off col- Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s head of design, lection that spliced panels from Nine- in the San Francisco-based company’s ties-era 501s in the front and segments of canteen and urged the executive to work contemporary Made & Crafted jeans in with Off-White. On the spot, the Millen- the back. Those reworked vintage styles nial unreeled the entire biography of Vir- sold for $350, exclusively at Ssense.com. gil Abloh, the architect and DJ who was Abloh’s main collection to be valued by Kanye West for his creative released Oct. 20 was designed and pro- direction before starting Off-White. As it totyped in Eureka but made in Levi’s happens, Abloh wears Levi’s all the time. factories in Europe. The construction Sensing a marketing opportunity, of the jeans reflected the ambition Levi’s asked Abloh to expound on his of his creative process. In lieu of the fondness for the brand in a video. Abloh diagonal stripes printed on his designs refused to sit in front of a camera. He that serve as a calling card for Off-White countered with a different proposition. fans, he mixed different panels. For “Let’s make product. I think it’d be example, white sheets guard the calves cool,” he told the company. on a skinny style shaded a pale blue A year later, Levi’s and Off-White are that Kurt Cobain could have worn in the about to start retailing their collabo- Nineties. Each panel bears a different ration. Priced from $650 to $1,675 to standard of shrinkage, and Levi’s engi- segue into Off-White’s high-end distribu- neered the final fit with that in mind. tion, Abloh’s jeans, jackets and coats for “He was very humble coming in. He Levi’s Made & Crafted’s women’s line came to learn,” Cheung said. “Tech- manifest his theories on gender-neutral nically, some of his jeans are really dressing and street-smart style. For challenging.” instance, one coat shields the body with Abloh couldn’t have imagined a a wide swath of denim in a rather clean better place to create than in the Eureka wash emboldened by fraying hems, studio. “It’s a microwave,” he said of galvanic steel zippers and big ring pulls. the experience of cooking up fashion with Levi’s. “In the traditional sense, As a futurist addition to a classic style, Off-White’s Virgil Abloh designed a coat for the zipper on the jeans takes central you send it to a supplier and it takes Levi’s Made & Crafted with fraying hems, stage by sitting exposed atop a bright a month before you see your idea. galvanic steel zippers and big ring pulls. white placket. From working in that environment [at Although Off-White’s collaboration is part Levi’s helped Virgil Abloh solve the “Denim as a fabric and jeans as a Eureka], you can realize in a day your of Made & Crafted’s women’s line, the technical challenge of mixing the category are integral to a modern sense idea. It just expedited the whole pro- jeans are designed to be gender-neutral back panels on the jeans from the of dress,” Abloh said. “For me the idea cess.” Besides, he said the ethos behind for men and women who fit them. Off-White collaboration. is, you know, as long as it has two legs, the collaboration was “to offer up some they’re a pair of jeans. You can fit them. new silhouettes of denim that comple- Male or female. They fit you.” ment the history but also lead to a new Abloh’s decision to focus first on the direction forward.” women’s market coincides with Levi’s Scheduled to meet again in Novem- business strategy. “Levi’s has always ber, Abloh is playing with black vintage had a very, very strong men’s presence washes for his next women’s grouping and reputation for men’s clothing. For with Made & Crafted. He is also floating women’s, that has been less of the case,” ideas for the new men’s component Cheung said. “As a brand, we’ve been expected in fall. putting a lot of energy into the women’s Abloh is a pro at collaborations. He business and our women’s product.” hooks up often with his favorite brands, Cheung estimates that Levi’s fields including Golden Goose, Moncler and requests at least once a week from Chrome Hearts. He is aware of his brands that want to work together. It exact position in the fashion industry. turns many down. Its tie-up with Junya “I’m clued into the streets, the trends Watanabe is one of its longest, running the kids are identifying that are doing for almost a decade. these record sales and making these That Levi’s is releasing collections categories in fashion,” he said. “We hit with Off-White, Vetements and Gosha this moment where fashion cried for an Rubchinskiy, who form the new wave update. The fashion industry has been of luxury streetwear, around the same looking for something new. Ironically, it time is not random. Cheung said the has come from the bottom up and not 163-year-old company had been observ- the top down.” ing the three brands for a while. “We The lesson for fashion companies that view them as the new, young frontier,” yearn to steal some of the sizzle from he said, adding that Vetements and Off-White: listen to the intern. OCTOBER 20, 2016 12

FASHION Shanghai Fashion Week Pivots to Consumers ● Favorite shows included Xu Zhi, Wan Hung and the capsule collaboration between cashmere company 1436 and Uma Wang.

BY CASEY HALL

SHANGHAI — As well as continuing to shape its identity as a forum for the best of China’s up-and-coming design talent, Shanghai Fashion Week branched out this season to bring fashion consumers into the tents. As with most fashion weeks, Shanghai Fashion Week, which started 13 years ago and wrapped its most recent spring edition on Wednesday, has traditionally been a business platform for the fashion industry — and an increasingly effective one in recent years with the growth of the multibrand retail sector and fashion buying culture in China. The biggest consumer-facing event of the week, which actually ran eight days, from Oct. 12 to 20, was Fashion Rocks China. It was the first time the event — a mash-up of music and fashion coming Looks from Wan Hung. together to entertain an audience of thousands in the stadium and orders of order to expand his platform’s presence a unique niche as a truly dynamic plat- and eco-friendly brands). magnitude more via a live-stream of the in China. The site already features names form for creativity and will soon be a key This edition of the Mode Shanghai event — has been held in China. such as Helen Lee and Nicole Zhang, as destination on the global fashion scene. It Fair saw around 8,000 visitors over its The event saw Usher performing on well as 65 multibrand retailers from main- has transformed itself, even in the three three-day run, from Oct. 13 to 15. Most his birthday alongside creations from land China. years I have been attending and it’s really promising, though, was not the gross Swarovski and Hong Kong songstress Coco “We are seeing a very, very fast tran- inspiring to see how it’s fostering a fashion numbers through the doors at Mode but Lee singing pop standards while models — sition now from fashion weeks showing ecosystem within China,” she said. the percentage of them that hold the keys including Victoria’s Secret Angels Ming Xi wholesale collections and being purely Lock, who was instrumental in starting to distribution for independent and niche and He Sui — strutted in looks from Giam- trade events to being about consumers Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Sydney brands from China and abroad exhibiting battista Valli’s diffusion line, Giamba Paris. being able to buy clothes and in other ways in 1996 and has worked with fashion at the fair. Buyers and agents accounted Representing Chinese design at the event get involved,” Lock said. weeks around the Asia-Pacific region and for 47.9 percent of the total visitors. was Xiamen-based brand Sankuanz, which “The showrooms and the trade shows the world, also sees Shanghai Fashion Also important is that this burgeoning combines traditional Chinese textile tradi- can be doing the business of fashion, the Week emerging as an important player in number of buyers, particularly those from tions with modern, utilitarian aesthetic. His shows in the tents and at Labelhood can the region. China’s growing multi-brand retail market, collection was shown alongside a perfor- be helping connect to consumers, so you “The reputation that Shanghai Fashion are becoming more open-minded about mance from British singer Charli XCX. can be multifaceted, which is brilliant,” Week has developed is clearly for the buying brands from their home market, as “No one has ever done an event like he added. new, emerging stars and I think the inter- well as international names. Fashion Rocks in Asia, especially not on Speaking of the growth of Labelhood, est in the fashion world globally is to look Jennifer Zheng, ceo and merchandising this scale. Our goal is to bring and pro- which was only introduced at Shanghai at this marketplace and see where this director for The Room, a chain of multi- duce content that the Chinese audiences Fashion Week last April, Lorenzo Hadar of new talent is coming from. That’s helping brand stores focusing on young designer have not experienced before,” said Gary Los Angeles retailer H. Lorenzo couldn’t to position the event as having a point of brands located in Shanghai, Nanjing, Mak, general manager of event organizer believe the development of the event in difference,” he said. Beijing and Ningbo. Apax Live. such a short period of time. “Hong Kong as a fashion week has been After traveling to the world fashion “Today a majority of content is being “I’ve seen it grow from this little thing singularly unsuccessful because they don’t capitals over the course of fashion consumed digitally online, mostly via into this…it’s like a monster,” he said. have many designers there and the event month, she now also makes the trade smartphones, so it is important to bring In past years, Shanghai Fashion Week itself is more like a trade show, it’s really shows and showrooms of Shanghai Fash- something unique and different for has balanced the interests of local brands a sourcing event,” he added. “Tokyo has ion Week a priority. consumers that they can experience in as well as international labels that used the made its reputation on three designers and “I go to New York, London, Milan and person. [Having said this] Fashion Rocks shows as a way to reach the massive Chi- has hung its hat on that for 25 years and Paris fashion weeks and then come here China [was also] live broadcast via Tencent nese market. Now the focus is much more really needs to bring some new people to to Shanghai. Shanghai Fashion Week is and reached an audience of millions.” on local brands, with Fashion Rocks China the table.” really booming. Three years ago there Labelhood, a platform at Shanghai being the only clearly international brand According to organizers, the growth of weren’t too many brands that we could Fashion Week for presenting up-and-com- event under the Shanghai Fashion Week Shanghai Fashion Week has attracted the see, but now you can see very interesting ing Chinese brands’ collections in a flexible umbrella this season. attention of local government bigwigs, and creative brands,” she said, adding that and creative format — for those who might Granted, Gigi Hadid was in town during leading some to harbor grand ambitions she has benefited in multiple ways since balk at the expense of showing in the fashion week to meet fans and promote her for Shanghai as a fashion capital of China, broadening her brand base to include traditional way in the tents in Shanghai’s Tommy Hilfiger x Gigi Hadid collaboration Asia and the world. Chinese labels. upmarket fashion retail destination of Xin- at an event on Shanghai’s famous Bund “These days our leaders can see the “In China they always think about the tiandi — also introduced a consumer-facing promenade, but the meet-and-greet wasn’t impact Shanghai Fashion Week is having customer, this is why they are fast to action element to some of its shows. part of the official fashion week schedule. on the city. These leaders sometimes ask and it’s good for us. The first time we Some brands showed their spring 2017 What the week showed was that whether we have the ability to grow big, order, we will only order a small quantity, collections multiple times, with the first Shanghai is more confident than ever in like Paris or something, but we tell them but if it works for our customer and we show being for media, buyers and fashion its position as China’s fashion capital and we are just doing this to be useful, and if want to make a larger order they can turn industry insiders and a replay of the pre- in its role primarily as a conduit for the people find it useful that’s the best thing this around very fast. It’s not the tradi- sentation held right afterward for consum- promotion of the best of the country’s we can do to grow the industry and impact tional way of working, like in Europe.” ers, who were able to buy tickets to the independent design scene. the city,” Lu said. Favorite shows from buyers and inter- shows online. For Gemma Williams, author of “Fash- At the same time as promoting the best national guests, such as Lock and Wil- “We need to do this. Fashion needs to ion China,” spring 2017 was her fifth sea- in local independent design, organizers liams, included Xu Zhi, Wan Hung and the pay attention to consumers; we are going to son of Shanghai Fashion Week, an event say Shanghai Fashion Week will continue capsule collaboration between cashmere keep on making the industry-focused events she has seen quickly develop over the past its work to encourage the fashion industry company 1436 and Uma Wang. more professional but also welcome con- three years as a leading fashion week in with business-focused events, including “Spring 2017 has been one the strongest sumers to participate more in other parts in the Asian region. showrooms and trade shows such as Mode seasons we’ve seen in Shanghai,” said the future,” said Lu Xiaolei, the vice secre- “I think there is a very direct correla- Shanghai, On Time Show, The Hub (which Lane Crawford buyer Jillian Xin. “Some tary general of Shanghai Fashion Week. tion between London Fashion Week and focuses on bringing smaller overseas highlights included the ethereal romance Simon Lock, the cofounder and chief Shanghai in that they are key destinations brands to the Chinese market) and Green of Xu Zhi’s presentation — his nude pink is executive officer of online showroom for talent scouting and discovering new tal- Code (a combined B2B showroom and officially my favorite color of spring 2017. I Ordre.com, was visiting Shanghai Fashion ent,” the London-based Williams said. B2C pop-up shop held in conjunction with also always look forward to the theater and Week for the first time in many years in “I feel that already Shanghai is carving Lane Crawford and focused on sustainable energy of Angel Chen’s shows.” OCTOBER 20, 2016 13

FASHION Hollister Links With Sydney Sierota On Collection of Partywear

● The line includes dresses, alongside Hollister’s head of design, Lisa matching top-and-short set in a deep tops and bottoms that are Lowman, and her team to conceive and Cabernet color with tarnished geomet- create the collection. They shopped vin- ric beadwork across the front, a pair of inspired and created by the tage stores in Los Angeles, looked through leather shorts and a flowy back top with 19-year-old singer. Sierota’s wardrobe and discussed details crystals embroidered as stars. for each piece, such as pockets, sequins All pieces in the collection can be mixed BY LISA LOCKWOOD or beads. and matched and dressed up or down. Hollister Co. is in a party mood. In a telephone interview, Lowman Prices range from $39.95 to $79.95. The retailer, a division of Abercrombie & said the collection has that “girly, shine Sierota said that “it was such a collab- Fitch Co., will launch a special partywear element.” orative process with Lisa and the entire collection designed in collaboration with “She loves shine and that playful feeling. Hollister team. I can’t wait to see how Sydney Sierota, lead singer of California She loves vintage,” said Lowman. She said fans style the pieces their own way and of band Echosmith. The collection includes that the Hollister’s designers would sketch course, I will be wearing it all on stage as dresses, tops and bottoms that are inspired the designs and she’d pick the colors and we launch our new album.” and created by the 19-year-old singer. It some of the details. “It was a real collab- “Sydney embodies Hollister, a true Cali will be available Oct. 28 in 180 stores glob- A look from Sydney Sierota's collection for Hollister. oration and very organic,” said Lowman. girl who is fun and optimistic. We loved ally and on hollisterco.com. Sierota met with the team for fit meetings getting to know her better and finding Last October, Echosmith partnered Echosmith, an American indie-pop to refine and finalize every piece herself. out the fashion trends she loves,” said with Hollister for the All Equal Campaign, band, was formed in February 2009 in The collection consists of 11 styles Lowman. which is a global initiative that promotes Chino, Calif. The band is comprised of which include matching top-and-short The collection will be promoted on antibullying in schools. During that time, four siblings: Graham, Sydney, Noah and sets, dresses and a pair of coated black social media, such as Instagram and Snap- the Hollister team got to know Sierota’s Jamie. Sydney plays the keyboard and is skinny jeans. There’s also a black skater chat, and Sierota will be making a personal sense of style and they came up with the the lead singer. dress with sequins and stars, embellished appearance at the Broadway Hollister store idea to collaborate. For the Hollister project, Sierota worked vertically for a shimmery rain effect, a in New York’s SoHo on Oct. 27.

Kirna Zabête will open next year in the Royal Poinciana Plaza in Palm Beach.

FASHION great days.” Full Picture and founded the now-defunct She’s hiring a local staff and predicts e-commerce site Les Nouvelles in 2009. Kirna Zabête’s Expansion Plans: that January through March will be the She will oversee all digital, social and slowest months. e-commerce strategy. Minkoff is the store’s As for Palm Beach, Buccini has signed a first online editorial director, joining from Hamptons All Year, Palm Beach lease for a 3,000-square-foot space in the market and fashion editor roles at Teen ● Royal Poinciana Plaza, a space designed Vogue, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar. Beth Buccini signed a huge financial commitment,” admitted by John Volk in the late Fifties that’s being She’ll direct the site’s trends, features and a long-term lease in Buccini, who became Kirna Zabête’s sole redeveloped by Samantha Perry. Sant social media and be responsible for trans- East Hampton and at owner in January after buying out her Ambroeus is opening there in December lating the buy onto the online world. founding partner, Sarah Easley, 17 years and Hermès will open along with Kirna “There’s been incredible e-commerce the Royal Poinciana Plaza. after they opened the store’s first location Zabête next fall. The plaza is also home to growth on our site this year,” said Buccini. BY JESSICA IREDALE in Manhattan’s SoHo. “I think the indepen- what Buccini describes as Palm Beach’s “You have to have it as a backup to serve dent voice has been missing in retail and hottest restaurant, the Palm Beach Grill. people. Once they find you and visit the The retail malaise that has had stores I’m happy to take what we built in SoHo She began talking to Perry about potentially store, if they can’t come back for a while, moaning — and worse, closing — recently and open in these other key markets.” opening a store at the Royal Poinciana two they’ll buy from you online.” hasn’t got Kirna Zabête’s Beth Buccini Buccini opened the East Hampton store years ago and the stars aligned once brands Asked what is driving Kirna Zabête’s down. Quite the opposite, actually. at 66 Newtown Lane over Memorial Day like Sant Ambroeus and Hermès signed on. growth at a time when so many retailers “We finished up 15 percent for the year,” weekend with plans to stay open until Sept. “I’m superexcited to be part of this are struggling, Buccini said, “I think what said Buccini, the owner and cofounder of 15. It was an experiment. She pulled inven- whole new generation,” said Buccini, women are wanting and missing is a per- Kirna Zabête, who had more upbeat news tory and staff from her Manhattan store whose parents and in-laws live in Palm sonalized and interesting experience. The to share. The pop-up store she opened and rented them a house for the summer. Beach. “So much has changed in Florida. customer in general is bored and overex- this summer in East Hampton performed “I had so many people beg me over the It’s a perfect location — the architecture is posed. I’ve been trying to create exciting, so well — 24 percent above plan — that she summer to stay open,” said Buccini. “They beautiful and the courtyards are beautiful.” beautiful spaces that give her something signed a year-round lease in the space. The would say, ‘We’re out here for Thanksgiv- In addition to hiring employees for the interesting to discover, gives her great Bryn Mawr, Pa., store she revealed in July is ing and we do all our Christmas shopping regional stores, Buccini has beefed up her customer service and a reason to go out on track to open in mid-November, and in that weekend. There’s nowhere else to go. e-commerce staff, bringing on Molly Raney and look around. We felt that hugely in the October 2017 Kirna Zabête’s fourth location Please stay.’ We decided to give it a try. as director of e-commerce and Jessica Hamptons this summer. The foot traffic will open in Palm Beach, Fla. Obviously the season is over and things Minkoff as editorial director. Raney was was incredible in our store. People were “It’s an incredible amount of work and have quieted down, but we’re still having most recently vice president of fashion at excited and willing to spend money.” An annual celebration of individual creative vision & business leadership

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Maria Grazia Chiuri Ellen von Unwerth All Woman A pack of influential friends gathered to celebrate the French edition of Diane von

Furstenberg’s tome, “The Woman I Wanted to Be.” Natalia Vodianova and Diane von Furstenberg The celebrations continue for endeavors. Gesnouin said he’s ing Bruni-Sarkozy an affectionate of,” echoed Khelfa. Maria Grazia I’m happy to work with other I’m very happy, but every day I Diane von Furstenberg, whose working on a men’s ready- squeeze before sitting down to Chiuri, who recently sent a “We women in my office and try to feel like I’m at the beginning of my nearest and dearest gathered to-wear label dubbed Carne sign copies of the book. “Ellen, I Should All Be Feminists” message find solutions for them because journey still.” at Paris restaurant Divellec Bollente, based on T-shirts with want to sign one for you because T-shirt down the runway for her I know what it means to have a Gleaming on her neck was a on Tuesday night for a dinner cheeky embroideries, while you, too, are the woman you want first collection for Dior, was more family and work. But why should gold coin set in a necklace that toasting the French edition of the Radufe is due to open a cocktail to be.” optimistic. “I think that every day you have to choose? I want to von Furstenberg had given her. “It designer’s tome, “The Woman I bar in Paris’ 10th arrondisse- Bruni-Sarkozy, dressed in you have to remember that it’s have a family and I want to work belonged to her father. He carried Wanted to Be.” The soirée’s hosts ment. “We don’t have a name for skinny leather pants, a Schiapa- very important that you really do and I hope society can help this set of gold coins with him were power couple Natalia Vodi- it yet, but it will have a major mu- relli blouse and fitted black jacket, what you want to do. Sometimes women do both.” throughout the war and they’re Di- anova and Antoine Arnault, who sic focus — disco, funk, African...,” seemed less convinced about her women forget that. We have to be Vodianova, who wore a long ane’s lucky charms in a way. She used to be a regular punter at the he said before disappearing into own personal journey. “It hasn’t strong and try to do what we really floral DVF skirt with a black gave a few away to very special revamped restaurant bordering the crowd. happened yet, life is about hope,” like, realize our dreams, even if it’s sequined top “to add a bit of rock people to her. Victoire de Castel- the esplanade of Les Invalides. Photographer Paolo Roversi, shrugged the model-cum-mu- not always easy,” she said. “Obvi- ’n’ roll,” had much to say on the lane set it for me,” said Vodianova, “I used to come here a lot when meanwhile, revealed he’s been sician and France’s former first ously, I’ve just made a big change subject. “I’m still in the process, who sees von Furstenberg as I lived on this street. I was one of working on a book “with Natalia lady, adding that she’s looking in my life, but I did it also because actually it’s part of what I wanted something of a mentor. “I admire the few clients under the age of about Natalia.” “It’s just portraits forward to reading the book and I wanted to send the message to to say tonight. When I was young everything about her. She’s a 75,” he quipped. “A lot of politicians done across two or three ses- getting into “all the details of von my daughter, who is 20 years old, I really didn’t have this vision of larger-than-life personality, she used to come here. It was a great sions over the last two or three Furstenberg’s life.” “She has had that you can change your life at who I wanted to be because noth- really can do it all. I think she’s the place, but very old, a little creepy years, but it looks like the same an incredible life, but is also a very any moment.” ing was important for me at that version of Karl, this overachiever. almost. It reopened a few weeks session. The title is very simple, grounded, simple person. She’s Added the designer: “I’m very time other than the next day. Now You know, I’m a driven person, but ago. I know the chef — he’s a friend it’s ‘Natalia,’” he chuckled. very feminine but also very much happy that in the past I spent — actually a lot thanks to Diane the way she does it, so effortless- and a big fan of Berluti — so we As von Furstenberg swept into a feminist. She’s a woman full of all my time with my family, but and her support in the beginning ly, and of course she is one of the thought of doing it here.” the venue, a gaggle of excited contrasts, and I love that,” said I was also very lucky because of my life with the Naked Heart most iconic women alive. She Hugging the bar male guests, including Farida Khelfa, Bruni-Sarkozy. my husband supported me. He Foundation and that journey — the is the best possible advisor to “It”-models Felix Gesnouin Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Ellen “I can’t say that I am there yet, helped me to discover who I am. fact that she said ‘you can do it, have on anything you’re doing. It’s and Baptiste Radufe chatted von Unwerth, swarmed to greet I’m not yet at that point, the place In some cultures, it’s not so easy. you should do it, this is fantastic’ definitely important to have her on about their own entrepreneurial her. “My Carletta,” she trilled, giv- I want to be, that I have dreamed It’s important to support women. and, you know, I was 22 years old! your side.” — KATYA FOREMAN Up Close and Personal With Garrett Clayton The actor talks starring in “King Cobra” opposite James Franco and Christian Slater.

Garrett Clayton “After I started being able to grow chance to show another side, approach to the role, although he ple are looking for different kinds a beard, I was obviously done at another character, that nobody did walk his way into the neces- of things that haven’t been done,” Disney,” Garrett Clayton begins, would expect from you?’” sary level of comfort: He walked he says. “There aren’t that many “until I’m old enough to be a parent Only a kid when the events around set in his underwear. movies like this, and especially or an annoying older brother.” transpired, Clayton prepared for “Normally, I wouldn’t walk about the gay porn world.” The 25-year-old actor has his leading role by researching around 60 people in my under- Despite the unusual premise, swiftly moved on from his Disney Corrigan — real name Sean Paul wear, but I couldn’t let that show Clayton stressed that the movie affiliation. Case in point? He stars Lockhart — online, and reading the on camera,” he explains. “If I’m has a wide thematically famil- as young, gay porn star Brent book “Cobra Killer,” which inspired going to portray someone who iarity. “For me, the story is about Corrigan in “King Cobra,” a biopic the film. It’s a racy role, packed works in the adult film industry, perseverance,” Clayton says. “It’s which recounts the 2007 murder of with explicit and salacious they obviously are very comfort- a story about taking charge of gay porn producer Bryan Kocis at scenes. Clayton had to fully let go able with their body, and comfort- your life and making decisions for the hand of two rival video produc- of his modesty to pull off the part. able being naked around people,” yourself and doing what you want ers — those characters are played “The first scene I did ended he continues. “It meant that I could with it. This is a story where some- by Christian Slater, James Franco up not making it into the movie,” show that kind of confidence on body took a really hard situation, and Keegan Allen, respectively. he recalls. “I’m getting ready camera without thinking twice made the best out of it.” “I was a little bit worried, to go out to the pool, and I’m in about it.” He also worked closely Since “King Cobra,” Clayton because you never know how the little blue boxcut Speedo, with Slater before filming to build has worked on a sci-fi “stoner” people are going to react when and I have the ‘Brent’ necklace familiarity that would read be- movie, a workshop of the new you do something so out of the on, and that’s about it. I’m in the tween their characters onscreen. Tennessee Williams play “When box,” the Michigan native admits of bathroom, and Christian [Slater; “We both wanted to be comfort- God Looked Away,” and he will taking on the role. “Especially [for] in character as Kocis] comes up able with each other, so that you appear in “Hairspray Live” in De- a Disney kid jumping out of the box and he tells me I’m pretty, tousles felt there was a history between cember. He certainty isn’t letting and doing something so out of left my hair and kisses my neck those two people, so it didn’t just himself be typecast. field. I was talking to my mom and and hugs me, and slaps my ass. feel like two actors doing a scene.” “I’m exploring different charac- I was like, ‘I just want your opinion And on the way out the door he Most of the reaction to the film ters, different mind-sets,” Clayton on it, what do you think?’ And she says ‘Don’t forget to shave your since its Tribeca Film Festival pre- says. “I just want to keep on the said, ‘You moved out to L.A. and you pubes.’ That was my acclimation. miere has been positive, and Clay- track of being able to be multifac- took risks, why aren’t you going to I was like, ‘Oh, OK. Might as well ton says the reaction among his eted and just keep doing really take a risk now? Why are you going get really comfortable.’” fanbase has followed suit. “Luckily, interesting work.” to stop when you’re given another He didn’t quite take a method we’re in a time where I think peo- — KRISTEN TAUER DVF Paris dinner photographs by Dominique Maître; Clayton by Daniel Doperalski by Clayton Dominique Maître; by dinner photographs Paris DVF DIGITAL FORUM LOS ANGELES CREATED BY WWD, BUILT FOR YOU NOVEMBER 15, 2016 • LOS ANGELES

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Fashion Scoops

design meetings with Lagerfeld Art, 1905-2016.” The exhibition’s Hill, Martha Hunt and Hari Nef, Waiting and his team. “He was doing all name refers to the science fiction and Carolina Herrera. of the sketching and the creative. writer H.P. Lovecraft’s alternate The shindig happened about With Karl No one else was doing it,” Dermer fictional dimension — a melange an hour after this year’s troop of Many would like to live like Karl said. “I was surprised how involved of cities, forests, mountains and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund final- Lagerfeld, or even his overly- he is in every detail….He has such an underworld that can only be ists presented the judging panel cared-for Siamese cat Choupette a deep understanding for space, visited through dreams. with their design challenge. No for that matter. Residents in the materials, fabrics and lighting.” A small army of artists will winner was revealed — it’s more new Art Shoppe Lofts + Condos in CD Capital Development and be represented including Oskar of a step along the way before Toronto will get a dose of his style Freed Developments connected Fischinger, Liam Gillick, Domi- the competition concludes next in two lobbies. with Lagerfeld through Cary nique Gonzalez-Foerster, Pierre month. Underwritten by Intel, the In a promotional Q&A, Lager- Leitzes, founder of the New York- Huyghe, Lynn Hershman Leeson, task was to design something feld said his idea was to be “chic — based Leitzes Co. Anthony McCall, Josiah McElheny, Actress Natalie that utilized the Intel Curie chip very 21st century — with materials The three-year project is Syd Mead, Lorna Mills, Jayson Portman and “I’m Bored” and connected it to a personal never used before in interior deco- expected to be completed by the Musson, Melik Ohanian, Philippe author Jess Rotter. memory. “I’m a reasonably smart ration in Canada.” Drawing from end of 2019. Parreno, Mathias Poledna, Edwin guy, “ Kolb said, “but when I read some of his favorite colors — sil- — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG S. Porter, Oskar Schlemmer, Hito On the contrary, the scene at show, my version of ‘Laugh-In.’ It’s the design challenge brief, it was ver, white and gray — the designer Steyerl and Rirkrit Tiravanija. Winsome in Los Angeles was a really simple with one-liners.” By a little hard to understand.” aimed for a frosted color palette, A multitude of moving image lively one, as guests representing next month, people can wear her The competitors were all a fitting choice for the Great The Whitney techniques like hand-painted film the cross-pollination of art, fash- illustrations on their sleeves, via present with a model wearing North. The lobbies have a lot of and more of-the-moment digital ion and entertainment mingled patches customized on Bliss & the fruits of the challenge. Adam mirrors, a lot of glass, mosaics on To The Max technologies will be showcased. before toasting Rotter and her Mischief’s Army jackets. Selman based his Curie — em- the floor instead of carpets and a Brandon Maxwell is keeping a The artist known as MPA first book, titled “I’m Bored,” with — KHANH T.L. TRAN bedded in a rose-shaped pin chandelier designed with chains. brisk pace this fall. Aside from relocated to the California desert sparkling rosé from Ruffino. that could light up if, say, your There is also a lot of lacquer, “not being a newly minted CFDA mem- three years ago to delve into an Having known Rotter since Uber was arriving — on his days because I’m Karl Lacquerfeld, ber, shipping his fall collection to inquiry about the future coloni- they were teens growing up Some Don’t at the Chelsea Hotel when he mais bon,” he noted. Neiman Marcus and styling for zation of Mars, better known as on Long Island, Portman was worked as a personal assistant. Lagerfeld will also help choose Lady Gaga, the designer is pitch- the Red Planet. With that in mind, responsible for introducing her Like It Hot “We all need one of those,” the few thousand books that ing in with the Whitney Museum MPA will stage an installation with friend with the “funny sense of For those not competing in he said. His muse was one of will be on display. His selections of American Art’s annual Art models painted red during the humor” to the Rodarte designers. the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund the hotel’s longtime residents will be mostly ones with images Party as a co-chair. He will have Whitney’s annual gala. She maintained her matchmaker design challenge, the biggest Stormé DeLarverie, a former focusing on art, fashion and pho- extra reinforcement at the Nov. 15 Partygoers will also be able to status by being seated between challenge Tuesday evening was drag king, on whom Selman tography. “If someone is waiting in event from the musician Com- check out another fall show “Vir- Rotter and Laura Mulleavy at the claiming a sliver of standing room based the silver lame denim the library, he can look at books of mon, Vanity Fair’s Michael Carl ginia Overton: Winter Garden” and table, decorated with a copy of without colliding with the trays wide-leg pants and jacket with a certain interest. He will not read and stylist Micaela Erlanger. a new performance piece from the book and a patch designed of Champagne or beef sliders a rose-embroidered bustier he Kierkegaard there.” The annual fund-raiser MPA in collaboration with Mariana by Rotter with a drawing of an os- in heavy rotation at Augustine, whipped up for the challenge. More than 1,000 people turned benefits the Whitney’s Indepen- Valencia and Lydia Okrent. trich from the book and the word the much-anticipated, yet-to-be- A blond with short blunt bangs out for last spring’s launch event dent Study Program. If they are To support the Art Party, “bliss” next to her place setting. opened Financial District restau- was wearing a black dress with Lagerfeld, who was visiting so inclined, guests at this year’s “Dreamlands” artist Aidan Koch Sporting a floral-print bomber rant by Keith McNally. Also, trying embroidered with twinkle lights Toronto for the first time. Jordan party can truly have an immer- has created a limited-edition print jacket made by the Mulleavy sis- not to sweat. that lit up when she made certain Dermer, managing partner of CD sive museum experience. Passing for purchase. And Samsung will ters, Portman had many reasons “It’s very warm in there,” said gestures. “We looked at photo- Capital Developments, which is through the expansive fifth-floor be giving guests a virtual reality to be blissful. She graciously Pamela Love, one of the many graphs from over the years and working with Freed Developments galleries, they will find “Dream- experience. — R.F. received well wishes from friends CFDA/VFF alumni who came out what was most important was on the project, sat in on four lands: Immersive Cinema and regarding her second pregnancy for the post-judging party as she a specific movement or gesture and her husband, Benjamin Mil- stepped outside to get some air. someone was making,” said Karl Lagerfeld’s design Boring, Not lepied, was prepping to dance in The place was stuffed to the gills Beckett Fogg, who designs Area for a lobby at Art Shoppe Art may imitate life but life a gala in December for the return with designers who have been with Piotrek Panszczyk. Loft + Condos in Toronto. doesn’t always imitate art. That of L.A. Dance Project to the City of through the program — Tha- “We wanted to give the Curie was good news for Natalie Angels. She also was able to read koon Panichgul, Shane Gabier memory,” said Panszczyk, noting Portman, Kim Gordon, Jenny an early edition of “I’m Bored,” and Chris Peters, John Targon that they sewed the chip into the Lewis, Autumn de Wilde and Jen- of which Hat & Beard is printing and Scott Studenberg, Tabitha dress’ ruffled wrist and taught nifer Herrema on Tuesday night, some 3,000 copies. “It’s got a Simmons, Prabal Gurung, Dao-Yi it nine moves that would work in because Kate and Laura Mulleavy bittersweetness to it,” she said. Chow and Maxwell Osborne various situations — on a stage, imagined in Jess Rotter’s new “Her drawings are incredible.” — its judges, including Steven playing sports, at a club. Fogg humor book that they wrote the Rotter said she always viewed Kolb, Jenna Lyons, Ken Downing, raised her arm to demonstrate foreword “as if we were giving her her book — which is filled with a Marcus Wainwright and David a move that felt relevant at the a toast at a boring dinner party, walrus wearing an AC/DC shirt, Neville, and those who were there moment: “You can be like, ‘Hey with boring guests, but thankfully a wizard, a Viking and other char- because it’s Vogue: most of its bartender, I need a drink.” with good Champagne.” acters — “as a scribbled variety editorial staff, models like Taylor — JESSICA IREDALE

BUSINESS Other fantasy gifts include a $700,000 week of luxuriating in three English castles and a $100,000 collection of 36 Caldecott Neiman Marcus’ Fantasy Holiday Medal-winning children’s books. Tongue firmly in cheek, Neiman’s res- ● For the first time, the urrected its 1970 concept of optimist and and clever.” pessimist gifts. The 2016 editions are a $25 department store has The book presents 10 publicity-generat- paper bead bracelet from a Dallas social combined its traditional ing fantasy gifts within a broader mix that enterprise and a $25,000 mattress and Christmas Book catalog spans from a $10 package of marshmallows foundation concealing a fireproof safe. to a $1.5 million rose gold plane. As in This year’s limited-edition car is an with the special edition of its recent years, 40 percent of the goods are Infiniti Q60 for $63,000 that goes on magalogue, The Book. priced under $250. sale Nov. 2 at noon. For many years the Probably the most exclusive offering is Christmas Book’s exclusive car sold out at BY HOLLY HABER a single trip for two to the invitation-only eye-popping speed, but last year only two DALLAS — If two is good, one is better. Grammy Awards for $500,000, with half of orders came for the $95,000 Mustang 50th For the first time, Neiman Marcus has that earmarked for charity. Other one-offs anniversary convertible, and in 2014 about combined its traditional Christmas Book are a $120,000 slumber party in Neiman’s half the $95,000 Maseratis sold. catalogue with the holiday edition of its The Infiniti Q60 downtown Dallas flagship that came from Ginger Reeder, vice president of corpo- magalogue, The Book — a move that cuts limited-edition car. an employee contest, a day of training with rate communications, said she’s not sure costs while linking e-commerce more NFL legend Joe Montana for $65,000 and why the Mustang didn’t sell better. But closely with its 42 full-line stores. standpoint, and it launches the holiday a $30,000 walk-on role in the Broadway the 2015 Christmas Book did sell some “We believe it’s more compelling to have season and important traditions.” musical “Waitress.” fantasy gifts, including two trips to space one unified message for the Neiman Mar- As a result of the merger, the 2016 His and hers electric Island Cars with at $90,000 a pop, one $150,000 Arch cus brand, and it creates a more seamless Christmas Book features 700-plus gifts Lilly Pulitzer interiors for $65,000 each motorcycle codesigned by Keanu Reeves, experience,” said Jim Gold, president and splashed across 304 pages — a big jump represent the first time a vendor has pro- a $125,000 package of rare bourbons, chief merchandising officer, at Wednes- from last year’s 196-sheet catalogue. duced two fantasy gifts for the company. two $10,000 hand-painted diaries and 10 day’s press conference for the 90th annual “The team worked very hard to curate Florida-based British inventor Andrew $5,000 costume trunks. catalogue. “We’re very happy with the it so we really feel strongly about each and Sneath, who developed the cars, also made Partial proceeds from all fantasy gifts Christmas Book. It goes beyond the sale of every gift,” Gold said. “It has to be some- the HydroBob scuba scooter that Neiman’s benefit the Heart of Neiman Marcus Foun-

“Bored” photograph by Jeaneen Lund by photograph “Bored” merchandise. It’s important from a brand thing we think is really fun and unique offered in 1994. dation to fund youth arts programs.