Got Klimt? NEW YORK — New York Continues to Welcome Legions of Immigrants, Including Those of the High-Proﬁ Le Variety

DOHA ROUND IN CRISIS/2 BALENCIAGA’S SPACE ODYSSEY/8-9 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 5, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear Got Klimt? NEW YORK — New York continues to welcome legions of immigrants, including those of the high-proﬁ le variety. Among the newest: Adele Bloch-Bauer, as painted by Gustav Klimt. Her $135 million passage footed by Ronald S. Lauder, the glamorous import is scheduled to take up permanent residence at the Neue Galerie on July 13. Over the years, Klimt has provided heady inspiration for fashion designers, including Castle Starr design director Sharon Lombardo, whose embroidered silk organza dress for holiday is an homage to the painter. For more Klimt-o-mania, see pages 4 and 5. Minor Becomes Major: Brands Speed Growth Of Secondary Lines

By Miles Socha TYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT TYLED BY PARIS — Fashion’s biggest names no longer are having second thoughts about their second lines. In a flurry of activity not seen since TZ/KRAMER + KRAMER; S + KRAMER; TZ/KRAMER the “diffusion” heydays of the Eighties, a spate of new European second lines are arriving on the market, while established brands are being given a fresh spin and higher profiles with tactics such as

HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SUZANNE KA HAIR AND MAKEUP BY attention-getting runway shows. All the activity suggests designer firms, recently focused on ultraexpensive, exclusive products in a booming luxury climate, are now keen to tap into aspirational customers, as well. See Brands, Page 7 YN CONNOR/ONE; GEORGINA GOODMAN SHOES; PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: ROB PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 WWD.COM Lamy Set to Deal With Doha Crisis WWDWEDNESDAY By John Zarocostas Promotion Authority expires in said Frank Vargo, vice presi- Sportswear July 2007. The Trade Promotion dent for international eco- GENEVA — Pascal Lamy, direc- Authority enables trade bills to nomic affairs with the National tor general of the World Trade be submitted for approval with- Association of Manufacturers. GENERAL Organization, kicks off a month out amendment. U.S. textile producers are In a fl urry of activity not seen since the diffusion heyday of the early of “shuttle” diplomacy, meet- “I think it can be done, but no pushing for special treatment 1 Nineties, a spate of European second lines are arriving on the market. ing Japan’s Prime Minister, doubt it’s becoming increasingly for apparel and textiles in an Pascal Lamy kicks off a month of “shuttle” diplomacy today to try to get Junichiro Koizumi, in Tokyo diffi cult,” said Celso Amorim, effort to protect domestic fi rms the Doha trade liberalization talks back on track. today to try to get the Doha Brazil’s foreign minister. “But and their customers in the 2 trade liberalization talks back now that we are in a crisis, we Western Hemisphere. Furla has signed a three-year agreement with Japanese watchmaker on track. have to fi nd a way to solve it.” At the same time, senior 2 Citizen to roll out a full line of watches. That should be just the fi rst U.S. Trade Representative Asian officials indicated they FASHION: Fashion and art often make for easy bedfellows, and nowhere stop for Lamy, as the negotiations Susan Schwab, in a joint state- expect any future deal lowering is that truer than with artist Gustav Klimt and the designer set. drifted into a new crisis Saturday ment Saturday with Agriculture duties on industrial goods to cut 4 after trade ministers from over Secretary Mike Johanns, said, deep into high and peak tariffs TECH: Speed to market, serving the customer and smooth systems 60 countries — including the “We remain fully committed for products such as textiles 10 transitions were main themes at the WWD Technology Forum. U.S., European Union, Japan, to an ambitious, robust round and apparel. Indonesia’s trade With talks under way for a U.S.-South Korea FTA, business leaders and Brazil, India, and Australia — that opens new markets for the minister Mari Pangestu, for one, offi cials discussed the virtues of investing in the Asian country. could not come up with a basic world’s farmers, manufacturers said in an interview that weak 16 agreement on how to cut subsi- and service providers.” cuts in textile and apparel tar- WEST: The Mix, a fashion emporium housing some 25 small boutiques, dies and tariffs for agricultural Agriculture remains the iffs “are not welcome.” 18 is to open in February near downtown Scottsdale, Ariz. and industrial goods. primary sticking point for the “We want tariff escalation A visibly agitated Lamy ad- round as a whole, but there is and tariff peaks to be taken care mitted to reporters at WTO head- still a wide gulf between the of and high barriers disman- EYE quarters Saturday that the Doha positions of rich nations and de- tled,” Pangestu declared. The fi rst Balenciaga retrospective in Paris opened on Tuesday, showcasing talks were “on the brink of fail- veloping countries on lowering Equally vocal on the sidelines 8 dramatic sculptural shapes and surprisingly vivid colors. ure” and indicated he plans to tariffs for industrial goods. of the ministerial talks were “crack heads together” to move The U.S. and the EU, backed poor African countries such as Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19-23 the round forward. Lamy has to by Japan, leaned hard on Benin and Zambia. Benin was To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. try to narrow the gaps in negoti- emerging countries such as adamant that it intends to keep ations on agricultural and indus- Brazil and India to come for- cotton issues front and center in [email protected], using the individual’s name. trial goods by the end of July to ward with more ambitious of- the talks. Zambia charged that WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. pave the way for a package deal fers in industrial goods but rich countries had not followed VOLUME 192, NO. 1. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- to be brokered and the round to failed to secure any movement. up with concrete proposals to ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- be completed by the end of the “While a successful Doha deal fulfi ll an earlier offer of duty ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers year. 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First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, By Robert Murphy in Paris, but it’s doing well,” said Leroux, not- and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions ing that his client list includes Jemima Kahn, and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To PARIS — Guy Laroche has parted ways with its Celine Dion and Arielle Dombasle. subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would designer of two years, Herve L. Leroux — for- Leroux declined to comment on the reason interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise merly known as Herve Leger. for his split with Laroche, saying only that he us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- The divorce comes as Leroux was gaining had enjoyed the experience. SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- momentum in his bid to give the dusty house A spokesman for Laroche, which was pur- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, more fashion relevance. He had succeeded to chased two years ago by China’s YGM Trading, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED the extent that last year he achieved worldwide said the house would now use a team approach. media attention after actress Hilary Swank He said it would continue to show its fashions dropped her plans to wear Calvin Klein and in- on the Paris runway. WEDNESDAY: Pitti Immagine Filati, Florence (through stead opted for a backless Laroche gown to pick Known for his sculptural gowns, Leroux Friday). up her best-actress Oscar. was arguably the most successful designer for Bread & Butter Barcelona and Barcelona Runways Leroux said he would continue with his Laroche in the last few years, bringing to the Shows (through Friday). self-named couture house in Paris, and that he house a sophisticated, Parisian fl air. Paris Haute Couture Fall-Winter Collections had several interior decorating projects wait- Previous to Leroux, the last designer to catch (through Saturday). ing in the wings, including a luxury hotel in the industry’s eye at Laroche was Alber Elbaz, Shanghaitex, Shanghai (through Saturday). Mauritius. who worked for the house from 1996 to 1998, “My house may be the smallest couture house and who is now at Lanvin. THURSDAY: Major U.S. retailers report June same- store sales.

FRIDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the June Furla in Watch Deal With Citizen COMING THIS WEEK employment report. By Luisa Zargani business in Japan, which doubled from 2003 to 2005 and now accounts for 20 percent of the com- In Brief MILAN — Furla is expanding the firm’s product pany’s total sales. Furla had revenues of 113 mil- offering with its first watch license. lion euros, or $141.6 million, last year. The com- The Bologna, Italy-based leather pany expects sales of 130 million euros, or ● ROWLEY ONLINE: Cynthia Rowley has added e-commerce to goods fi rm had outside manufacturers $162.9 million, this year. her Web site, cynthiarowley.com. The site now sells the design- produce a limited number of branded Furla just opened its biggest store er’s entire assortment, from apparel to accessories, fragrance timepiece styles, but has now signed a in the world in Tokyo’s Ginza and home items. It also will offer one product a month that will three-year agreement with Japanese district. Covering 4,320 square be exclusive to the site. The first such item is a silk scarf with watchmaker Citizen to roll out a full feet, the two-story boutique a backgammon board motif, which comes with playing pieces line. Citizen said in a statement features fi ve large windows and can be used as an actual game. It retails for $250. The e- that it anticipates the Furla watch at street level and is fur- commerce move makes Rowley’s designs available worldwide. line will have sales of 12 million nished with Furla’s “Rolling “The revamping of our Web site not only increases our visibil- euros, or $15 million at current Concept” pieces — mobile ity with international customers, but also allows us to learn exchange, by 2008. furniture that allows the re- things about them,” Rowley said in a statement. “The online The license is also the fi rst tailer to quickly change and store will help tell us where in the world we have the biggest for Citizen, which said Furla redesign the store’s interior. audiences — and where we should be opening stores.” is the “ideal partner” for the Furla has 190 brand boutiques company’s launch of new around the world and 1,000 ● GUATEMALA’S GREEN LIGHT: President Bush issued a proc- fashion watches, “in terms points of sale. lamation Friday implementing the Central American Free of both style and affordable In addition to the store, the Trade Agreement for Guatemala on July 1. That widens the ef- luxury.” company this spring launched a fective scope of the free trade deal, which already includes El Retail prices for the line, collection of limited-edition hand- Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and the U.S. The Dominican which is set to bow for fall, will bags labeled Giovanna Furlanetto per Republic has yet to implement CAFTA, while Costa Rica has range from $100 to $265. Furla that retail for 300 euros, or $376, to 500 not ratified it. Furla is focused on expanding its euros, or $626. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 3 WWD.COM

Republic. In Vanity Fair’s August issue, on newsstands in who previously has shot campaigns for fashion houses such New York and Los Angeles today, Tyrnauer writes that a as Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, has trained his group of monks selected John Pawson as their architect after soft-focus lens to street level for the fi rst time. In the latest MEMO PAD seeing photos of the Calvin Klein store in a book high-low shuffl e, British High Street chain showing Pawson’s work: “They were especially Topshop has nabbed the revered Italian lensman FLORIO’S NEXT ACT: Steve Florio is interviewing. With less impressed, [Pawson] says, with ‘a photograph of for its fall-winter campaign, to be released in than six months to go on his contract with Condé Nast, the the main sales fl oor from above, with two tables August. The ads will appear in British-based former chief executive offi cer and current vice chairman has that to them looked like they could be altars.’” magazines such as Vogue and the recently begun talking to prospective future employers in earnest. Albeit altars for a very different type of religion. launched Lula, as well as Topshop’s Internet site One job he defi nitely won’t be taking? The hospital Tyrnauer goes on to write, “The Trappists and store windows. Topshop executives declined administrator position a headhunter called him about recently. even considered having new robes made by to disclose the budget. Under the creative “I’ve seen enough hospitals in the last few years, thank you Klein. The designer fl ew by private jet to Novy direction of Ronnie Cooke Newhouse and styled very much,” said Florio, who had heart surgery to replace a Dvur, met with the abbot and dined with the by Kate Phelan, the story stars new faces Anna faulty valve in 1999 and a second surgery a few years later to monks. He then selected very expensive wool — Kushkina, Charlotte di Calypso, Eva Hélène, Valeria correct a manufacturer’s defect on the replacement valve. which he planned to donate — from the oldest Garcia and Angelle Boucher in a series of individual His binding agreement with Condé Nast, which is ongoing, loom in Lyon. The robes were to be embellished studio poses, surrounded by atmospheric halos prevents him from working for a competing magazine with ancient gold thread found in Milan.” of eggshell blue lighting. “We wanted to lift it out company in the future, but otherwise, he’s a free agent. Florio But alas, the luxe designer robes were not of looking like a typical High Street brand,” said also has gotten calls about non-competing publishing jobs to be. “I’m not really sure what was said,” Pawson told Newhouse, adding Roversi was enthusiastic to take on the and jobs within the fashion and beauty industries, as well as Tyrnauer, “but Calvin was quite cross. And I do think the project, having heard so many models mentioning Topshop. teaching positions, thanks to the fall lecture series he’s been abbot became concerned that there might be articles “It’s become a destination when people go to London, and doing for the MBA program at New York University’s Stern headlined ‘Monk Chic.’” — S.J. has developed the allure of a high-fashion label,” she said. School of Business for the past few years. Roversi succeeds art photographer Jeff Mermelstein, who had Speaking of which, Martha Stewart and Susan Lyne, the TOP SHOT: Paris-based fashion photographer Paolo Roversi, shot the Topshop campaigns since 2004. — Katya Foreman president and ceo of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, have signed on to return this year to give a lecture to Florio’s students. (They packed one of NYU’s auditoriums last year.) Michael Eisner tentatively has agreed to be a Florio guest and recruiter Michele James of James & Co. and MTV president and chief operating offi cer Michael Wolf will be speaking. An ask is also out to Charlie Rose with whom Florio could certainly discuss heart scares. — Sara James

CALVIN-ISH MONKS: Calvin Klein’s brand always has been synonymous with minimalism, but monkish austerity? Vanity Fair’s Matt Tyrnauer says Klein’s ﬂ agship on Madison Avenue was the inspiration behind a new Trappist monastery in the Czech Dries Van Noten To Open in Paris PARIS — Dries Van Noten, whose atmospheric Antwerp, Belgium, flagship has been his biggest retail statement to date, is about to plant his flag in Paris. WWD has learned the Bel- gian designer plans to open a 2,800-square-foot boutique at Quai Malaquais on the Left Bank, just down the block from the Beaux-Arts in a neighbor- hood more recognized for an- tiques than fashion. The one-level unit with a mezzanine, slated to carry Van Noten’s women’s ready-to- wear, shoes and accessories, is expected to open in 2007 in a space currently occupied by a bookstore. Meanwhile, Van Noten has another Parisian project brew- ing: He’s been tapped to do special packaging this fall for luxury pastry maker Laduree. Although Van Noten is on a strong growth track, with sales last year vaulting 25 percent, the designer has taken a measured approach to retail, preferring to build strong relationships with wholesale clients like Barneys New York. Besides his 3,500-square- foot Antwerp ﬂ agship, which opened in 1989, he has a 3,000- square-foot unit in Hong Kong in partnership with Joyce. Van Noten, who founded his business in 1985, has been showing his women’s collection in Paris since 1993. — Miles Socha 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006

Nicole Kidman

ForFashion and art often make for glorious companions,Klimt and that is certainly the case when the artist is Gustav Klimt. Now, with the arrival of the portrait “Adele Bloch-Bauer I” at the Neue Galerie, his impact might be felt again. Here, a look at his inﬂ uence in recent fashion and at Klimt women then and now.

Emilie Flöge

Erin O’Connor

Elisabeth Bachofen-Echt

Johanna Staude

Christian Dior haute Derek couture, spring ’98. Lam, fall ’04.

“Adele Bloch-Bauer I,” 1907 COURTESY OF NEUE GALERIE COURTESY

COME JULY 13, THE ART WORLD’S HIGHEST-PRICED paintings almost look like they could be textiles,” says dame — Gustav Klimt’s “Adele Bloch-Bauer I” — will Peter Som. arrive in Manhattan, all $135 million of her to be nestled “With Klimt, you don’t see the person in clothes,” above a fireplace at the Neue Galerie on the Upper East says textile designer Kevin O’Brien. “You see her in Side, a gift to New York from Ronald S. Lauder. With its relationship to fabric.” history of tragedy and intrigue, the painting fascinates And Cynthia Rowley adds, “The way Klimt chose the on many levels, fashion among them. The artist’s visual composition is almost like a fashion editorial.” splendor and the elaborate fashions of his subjects have To wit, in the book “Klimt & Fashion,” Christian long mesmerized and inspired designers. Whether the Brandstätter makes mention of the artist’s fashion arrival of one of his masterpieces will inspire a new photography, for which Flöge modeled. round of Klimt-o-mania remains to be seen, but fashion Still, Klimt’s grip on his audience is about more than types of all sorts no doubt will be rushing uptown in the his subjects’ buoyant style. Julie Gilhart of Barneys New coming weeks. York notes “the magical quality” of his work, and Zac “With all our beading and embroidery, Klimt’s always Posen, its emotion. in the back of our minds,” says Badgley Mischka’s James “At the end of the day,” he says, “designers or girls Mischka. “He keeps coming around again and again.” He or women are attracted to something they can have an and Mark Badgley are not alone. The list of designers emotional reaction to, whether it’s through texture, who have tapped into Klimt’s Viennese Art Nouveau style symbolism, or the nostalgia of it. That’s what draws in the past few years alone runs long, from Dior’s John people to an image or to a line of clothing or a dress.” Galliano to Carolina Herrera to Derek Lam and on and “It’s the sensuality,” adds Price. “Without a doubt, on. They have found plenty to love in the work of this that’s what people respond to.” smock-loving artist. And leave it to a fashion girl to act on such a response. First, there’s the obvious: Klimt’s paintings celebrate “Klimt’s portraits are so erotic, yet classical,” remarks overt fashion, hardly surprising given that his mistress, Sarah Easley, co-owner of Kirna Zabête. “These regal Emilie Flöge, was, as Neue director Renee Price says, ornamented women would certainly stop you dead in your Zero “the Coco Chanel in Vienna,” and a champion of the era’s tracks,” she says, slipping into retailer mode to add, “and Maria Reform dressing. make you want to go out and just rethink your wardrobe.” Cornejo, “There’s an inherent decorative quality to Klimt. His — Venessa Lau fall ’06. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 5 WWD.COM

Lily Cole Shalom Harlow Klimt Musings

Portraits of the Ladies Diane von Furstenberg: “Ronald Though her portrait has certainly fetched the has been collecting for years highest price, Adele Bloch-Bauer was just one of and was ambassador in Vienna. the many Viennese society women who posed for There’s a lot of story behind Gustav Klimt. Friederike Maria Beer, Elisabeth the whole thing — love, passion Bachofen-Echt and Johanna Staude were among the and real heritage. How will [the original Klimt girls; their Austrian Jewish husbands painting] affect fashion? Well, commissioned Klimt to render their wives in his fashion is mysterious. You signature ethereal style, a combination of dreamy never know.” eyes and fl owing hair, captured in vivid colors and clad in crafty, often Wiener Werkstätte-style, Carolina Herrera: “Klimt always clothing. But perhaps no one was so undeniably had a touch of excess in his Klimt as Emilie Flöge, a prominent Viennese paintings. There’s a lot to be designer known for her loose, geometric-printed inspired by. I see a lot of gold and Reform dresses, not to mention her ongoing role silver lamé.” as Klimt’s muse and sometime lover. During the course of their 20-year relationship, Flöge was one Bryan Bradley, Tuleh: “This kind of the few subjects Klimt painted more than once; of thing typically does have an art scholars widely believe she was the model for his impact on designers. It generates Maggie Gyllenhaal most famous work, “The Kiss.” pictures, talk, magazine profi les Now, with the Art Nouveau master a major topic and becomes part of the zeitgeist, of interest, who today might be considered a latter- and that’s what we designers day Klimt beauty? “Someone a little bit funky, a mine.” little bit downtown, but still luxe,” says Peter Som, citing Bortolami Dayan gallery owner Amalia Dayan Georgina Chapman, Marchesa: as an example. “What’s interesting about Klimt “Shalom Harlow is pretty Klimt,” Zac Posen from a designer’s point of view says. “That dark hair and strong features. I’d love to are his textures, the detailed see her in a graphic breakup.” Others note Nicole fabrications. You can take patches Kidman, Grace Coddington, Lily Cole, Charlotte of his paintings and study them Gainsbourg, Lou Doillon, Erin O’Connor, Irina — each little piece of his painting Lazareanu, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Marina Rust Connor has a life of its own.” and Tilda Swinton. “For me, Klimt — not in this Tilda Swinton painting, but many others — is always related to Colleen Sherin, Saks Fifth reddish hair and white skin,” Odile Gilbert says of Avenue: “I see it having an Cole. “There’s something aristocratic about it and eveningwear infl uence, certainly something pure.” the importance of gold and For some, however, the essence of the Klimt highly decorative elements: woman is less a fashion sense than a lifestyle — an mosaic prints and geometric elusive one at that. “Do we know,” wonders Julie embellishments. And chokers or Gilhart, “a [modern] woman so involved with the Byzantine-inspired jewelry, as arts, with politics, with philanthropy, whose social well as beauty, the rosy cheeks, event is a collaboration of all these people coming sensual lips and soft hair.” together at her home with no photographers?” A rhetorical question, perhaps. But Carolina Valerie Steele, Museum at the Herrera has an answer. “I don’t think so,” she Fashion Institute of Technology: laughs. “I haven’t seen one yet.” “We like decoration; we like

Charlotte Gainsbourg MICELOTTA/ JEAN BAPTISTE LACROIX/WIREIMAGE; FRANK STEVE EICHNER; GAINSBOURG BY GYLLENHAAL BY COLE BY MJ KIM/GETTY PETER KRAMER/GETTY IMAGES; O’CONNOR BY JIMI CELESTE; KIDMAN BY BY GETTY IMAGES; HARLOW OF IMAGNO/GETTY COURTESY IMAGES M. BENETT/GETTY DAVE IMAGES; SWINTON BY IMAGES; PAINTINGS — Jessica Iredale opulence. This picture is precisely the kind of thing that would inﬂ uence designers because it’s so lush and rich. Also, because Marc Diane von Dries Van Carolina the surfaces of Klimt’s work are Jacobs, Furstenberg, Noten, Herrera, so incredibly intense, I think it’s spring fall ’01. fall ’06. spring ’06. going to have a real impact on ’02. photographers and stylists.”

Behnaz Sarafpour: “The way Klimt mixes colors and patterns together, it’s very organic. And fashion today is so eclectic and so mixed.”

Renee Price, Neue Galerie: “A lot of women ﬁ nd comfort in this femininity and sensuality — you can’t go wrong. I think it will inﬂ uence designers, jewelers, all types of creative people. I mean, think of a powder compact you could do, all encrusted with jewels.”

Kathryn Bonanno-Patrizzi, professional gemologist and jewelry consultant: “You see this woman with the very high dog Etro, collar and her multiple bracelets. fall It’s a return to glamour that ’04. can only help because we’re all lacking a bit of glamour in today’s world.”

Louis Max Mara, Cynthia Rowley: “Klimt’s work Vuitton, fall ’02. is the perfect combination of art fall ’05. and fashion. It’s ornamentation, for sure, but still sort of somber- ish — like a beautiful, decrepit opulence.”

Julie Gilhart, Barneys New York: “It’s not just the beauty of the woman that’s captivating, it’s the things that encase her. It’s about texture and surface, pattern, shape and form, all of which sound generic, but are very instrumental elements to fashion design. And, you know, she’s

RUNWAY PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, TURNER THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DAVID GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY RUNWAY deﬁ nitely a jewelry girl.” 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006

First LookTough at Galliano and Tender PARIS — Talk about a busy week. Not only is John Galliano showing a couture collection for Christian Dior today, he’s also unveiling Galliano, his new second line produced by Italy’s IT Holding. Although priced about 40 percent less than his signature collection, the Galliano line is loaded with the designer’s touches and his range, from tough to tender. Think, for example, of a delicately ruffl ed, crystal-fl ecked chiffon top paired with camoufl age pants. The designer decked out the debut spring 2007 collection with distinctive details, from newsprint lin- ings and touches of lace to bold embroideries on the back of jean jackets blaring “Magic John.” And the line spans everything from beachwear and sweatpants — cut with a swagger — to leather jackets, suits, cocktail dresses and accessories. PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 7 WWD.COM Brands Push Growth of Second Lines Continued from page one is laying the groundwork to expand its presence in used the restaurant as a backdrop for its fall advertis- Among the latest arrivals is Alexander McQueen’s Asia, especially China. ing campaign starring Chinese actresses Dong Jie and McQ collection, delivered last month to some 400 doors Whereas designers’ top collections focus on cut, fi t Zhou Xun and Japanese model Lina Ohta. Prada also worldwide, and forthcoming for spring 2007 is John and high-quality materials, diffusion lines need to offer has infl ated price tags at Miu Miu to boost the brand’s Galliano’s Galliano, which is gunning for wholesale innovation in terms of fabric treatments, washes, embroi- exclusive allure, but the company declined to quantify volume in excess of 100 million euros, or $125 million, deries and prints to make pieces stand out, Negro said. the increase. Last year, sales at Miu Miu grew about 18 in three to fi ve years (for more on the Galliano collec- Many observers lamented what they described as percent to 129 million euros, or $161.3 million at aver- tion, see opposite page). outmoded nomenclature for their new lines, insist- age rates for the year. Meanwhile, Prada, Versace, Chloé and Giorgio ing that descriptors such as “younger,” “cheaper” or Meanwhile, retailers said they are newly bullish on Armani are among fi rms putting their second brands “denim-based” do not tell the whole story. select second lines, which have rebounded from errors under the management microscope, fi ne-tuning or re- “How we defi ne it to the media is really a chal- of the past. positioning them — and seeking to kick-start growth. lenge,” said Alexander McQueen’s Akeroyd, who, Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Lane Crawford in Emporio Armani, for example, plans to move its show before joining the designer company, part of Gucci Hong Kong, allowed that many secondary lines were from Milan to London for a fashion week splash there. Group, was merchandise director at Harrods. He said “franchised out too early,” saturated many markets The move follows Prada’s decision last season to shift the term “diffusion line” often conjures up missteps of and had inconsistent and often “low-end” positioning its Miu Miu show to Paris from Milan. the past, when cheaper fabrics, excessive use of logos across different countries. And Chloé recently introduced a cruise collection and a basic approach to fashion were commonplace in Today, however, she said consumers are transfi xed for See by Chloé, emblematic of big ambitions for the the segment. by luxury branding and eager to buy into designer brand, fi rst launched in 2001 and manufactured under Today, he said, a second line must have a strong names. “You can attract a larger, wider audience, and license by Neo Res SpA, a Carre, Italy-based company. dose of fashion and a distinct identity, and should not a younger customer,” she said, adding that “a main line “I really intend to grow this business,” Chloé chair- make too many compromises because of price, espe- customer also will often buy from secondary lines. It’s man and chief executive offi cer Ralph Toledano said. cially as the collections must compete with formidable an add-on sale as opposed to trading down.” “Our turnover is far below what it should be. Instead of fast-fashion players such as Topshop, H&M and Zara. Rutson said Lane Crawford has built strong busi- making less than half the sales [of our top collection], “We have to do a line that’s edgy, that’s got a point of ness with Prada’s Linea Rossa (or Red Line), D&G and we should be doing twice that amount.” view,” he said. “You don’t want to make too many com- See by Chloé, and it plans to add McQ for fall-winter. To that end, Toledano “[McQueen] is certainly has been beefing up a designer that has an staffi ng for See by Chloé, The McQ line A cruise especially large follow- bumping up the fash- made its debut look from ing with a fashion-for- ion quotient and taking at retail in June. See by ward, younger crowd tighter control of distri- Chloé. who would otherwise bution. Prices also have never be able to afford been made more com- his main collection,” petitive, he added. For she said. example, the suggested “Diffusion collec- retail price for high- tions are receiving waist jeans from the management attention cruise line is $460, while because of the business T-shirts run at $230. At opportunities that exist present, See by Chloé is within the contempo- sold in some 750 doors, rary market,” agreed including Neiman Ken Downing, fashion Marcus, Saks Fifth director at Neiman Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Marcus, which carries Nordstrom and Holt such European brands Renfrew. as Just Cavalli, D&G Jonathan Akeroyd, and Valentino Red. “Our ceo of McQueen, said customer is interested independent consumer in great fashion product research in London in every category. We confirmed high brand are excited about the awareness and a strong new McQ collection by desire to purchase Alexander McQueen… McQueen products, but and equally excited to many consumers consid- view the new collection ered price a barrier. from John Galliano.” The average age of a Michael Fink, vice McQueen customer now president and fashion is about 35, whereas the director of women’s at new line is targeted at Saks Fifth Avenue, said people in their 20s, he Miu Miu secondary lines are noted. now does particularly appealing In recent years, it was its runway as designer prices have fashionable for design- show been creeping ever ers to mix different con- during higher. “It’s broaden- cepts and price points Paris ing your customer base. under the same label, Fashion There’s only so many said Sidney Toledano, Week. people who can afford ceo of Christian Dior GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY a dress over $4,000,” he and acting president of said. “It’s a way to re- Galliano. “It was a creative approach, but today you promises because of price. The most important thing is ally get in and pump up some volume.” have to be more clear in your proposition.” the styling and the image.” Fink said diffusion lines have “absolutely evolved” Designers like Galliano travel extensively and have Over the past year, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and and identifi ed their niche customers with sharp styl- a broad understanding “of market needs and segmen- Prada all have made signifi cant decisions regarding ing and the latest trends, mentioning the likes of tation borders,” Toledano said. “We need a real separa- the future of their diffusion lines. M Missoni, D&G, Just Cavalli and Valentino Roma. tion into two lines.” Dolce & Gabbana terminated its 12-year relation- “They’re not watered-down main line versions,” he Galliano’s licensing partner is Italy’s IT Holding, ship with IT Holding, taking operations in-house for said. “They treat a second line like a main line. It’s a and the designer praised the company, in which de- D&G. The fi rst D&G collection produced and distrib- real business.” sign and production teams are completely separated, uted entirely by Dolce & Gabbana will be introduced Fink allowed that Miu Miu’s shift to Paris Fashion preventing ideas from migrating from one brand to an- for spring 2007, and the company is in the process of Week from Milan was a “smart move” to give it a stron- other or sameness creeping into all of them. setting up a new headquarters and ramping up produc- ger identity away from Prada. However, “for the most And he confi rmed the full involvement of his Paris- tion for a brand that does upwards of 150 million euros, part, secondary lines don’t really need to be on the based Galliano design team and himself: “I was pres- or $189 million, a year in revenue. runway unless they have an extremely strong person- ent at every fi tting.” Versace also is rethinking the category, focusing on ality,” he added. Galliano’s partner, IT Holding’s Ittierre unit, was its main collection and disassociating the brand from Averyl Oates, buying director at Harvey Nichols in a pioneer in launching designer jeans and younger lower-end products. The company took over U.S. dis- London, said second lines such as Marc by Marc Jacobs can lines in the late Eighties and early Nineties, including tribution of the Versace Jeans Couture line and halted even set fashion trends and inspire high street retailers. Versus and D&G. Although Ittierre has stopped pro- Versus. “You will get the customer that buys the main line ducing those lines, the company still has a large port- Versace has declined to discuss the future of Versus buying the second line for more relaxed pieces, and folio of licenses including Just Cavalli, Versace Jeans other than to say that it’s gearing up to relaunch the also a customer new to the designer who is maybe look- Couture and Costume National C’N’C. line later this year. ing for more accessible pieces and less-serious fashion “You need to have specifi c capabilities in terms Prada, meanwhile, is repositioning Miu Miu to give pieces,” she said. “Rather than it being a cheaper ver- of manufacturing and distribution…that’s not easy the brand its own identity and disassociate from the sion of a main line collection, as diffusion lines initial- to create,” said Maurizio Negro, Ittierre’s ceo. IT world of secondary and diffusion lines. Prada moved ly were, second lines now carry their own identity and Holding has built up a client network of 4,500 retail- the Miu Miu runway show to Paris last season, stag- are thought of as an individual label.” ers, mostly in Europe and the U.S., and the company ing it in historic restaurant Laperouse. The house also — With contributions from Amanda Kaiser 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 Cristol Ball Patchwork looks set in a transporter motif. PARIS — “The clothes look very familiar. Some of them I actually wore,” Martha Stewart quipped on Tuesday night after preview- ing the “Balenciaga Paris” exhibition at the Museum of Fashion and Textiles here. Among the VIPs, many of them dressed in Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, were Jennifer Connelly, Maggie Cheung, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Marianne Faithfull. “The baton has been passed over to Nicolas Ghesquière so beautifully,” Connelly pronounced about the exhibition, which spans the almost 70 years since Cristobal Balenciaga set up shop in Paris. Even men had an opinion on the clothes. “I particularly liked the looks from 1939; they were very severe,” said Hugh Grant, who was accompanied by Jemima Khan. A range of eveningwear from the Sixties. “It was interesting to see all the stages where Nicolas Ghesquière got his inspiration,” said Cheung, who is featured in a mini fashion fi lm in the exhibition. “It is always interesting to look at history. The juxtaposition of modernity with tradition exemplifi ed the extremity of Balenciaga.” And that’s exactly what Ghesquière set out to showcase. “I wanted to put Balenciaga in a very contemporary environment,” said the designer, who’s no fan of historical decor. “The high-tech elements were very important.” No wonder the mannequins for Ghesquière’s designs are otherworld- ly droids with fl ashing eyes, turning the tables on the spectators. Even Balenciaga’s designs are set in a “galactic landscape,” blasting them back to the future. Ghesquière tapped artist Dominique Gonzales-Foerster and lighting expert Benoit Lalloz to realize his extraterrestrial vision. The trio faced certain restrictions, including the fact that lighting had to be kept low so as not to harm historic garments. Still, it all adds up to a transporting experience up to and including a case that resembles a teleportation scene from “Star Trek.” As for the clothes, Ghesquière said visitors should discover that Balenciaga, often associated with austere and black designs, had a colorful side, too. Looks from Mustard yellow, fuchsia, and offbeat violets and greens are all on display, along the fall 2003 with Balenciaga’s three recurrent prints: polkadots, stripes and fl orals. One red collection. dotted dress and cape, awash in ruffl es, resembles a ladybug. “There is so much fantasy,” the designer enthused. “There is print, color and craziness in the embroidery. And yes, there are big volumes, but even the most spectacular pieces are not that big. There was a balance of volume. That to me is the essence of elegance.” The exhibition is billed as the first major retrospective of Cristobal Balenciaga in more than three decades, and the fi rst ever in Paris, the city where he cemented his fashion reputation. The show spans 170 looks, 147 of which are the work of the Spanish master, and the remaining 23 by Ghesquière, who took the house’s creative reins in 1997. Curator Pamela Golbin traveled the globe in search of emblematic Balenciaga garments, borrowing from collections in Japan, England, Spain, France and the United States. Finding clothes was not a problem, owing to the designer’s long, prolifi c career and the fact that his careful choice of fabrics and expert cutting left many garments in mint condition, she said. The exhibition is laid out over two fl oors, largely chronologically, ending with Ghesquière’s designs and a prototype wedding dress from 1967, one year before Balenciaga’s retirement. During a walk-through on Monday, Golbin halted at a case showing dresses from 1937, the year Balenciaga set up his Paris house after years of selling his own designs and those of others in Spain. She explained that the couturier’s fashion vocabulary was largely set by then, and his entire career would center on garment construction— experimenting with volume and reducing the number of seams — and various surface treatments, including densely layered embellishments. “He’s not into pretty aspects,” she said. “It’s an esthetic point of view.” Indeed, his precision silhouettes clearly shift in themed cases, from his take on Christian Dior’s New Look, to his iconic sack and chemise dresses through Ghesquière’s intricate designs. to free-fall backs late in his career that ultimately morphed into full-on trains. Clémence By the end of his career, he had simplifi ed his cutting to mostly geometric Poésy forms: the circle, semi-circle, rectangle and square. Evening capes are a recurrent theme, as are references to Balenciaga’s Spanish roots, especially his spectacularly beaded boleros. But so is experi- mentation, from bath mat-like coats made of fake fur — daring for a couture collection — to a black bolero reminiscent of a cabbage that rises up and almost swallows the head. In one case, a dress is displayed next to its bodice turned inside out to show how Balenciaga rigged an internal harness of grosgrain that kept the crepe fabric in place. Anyone who has visited the Balenciaga boutique in Paris with a decor reminiscent of a health club aboard a spacecraft will fi nd many common elements in the exhibition: iceberg-like forms, odd geometric portals and swimming pool tiles. The further one ventures into the retrospective, the more the futuristic elements increase. But there are high-tech elements throughout, including fl at- screen televisions showing sketches by Balenciaga on various hotel letterheads. Others broadcast rare footage of the couturier during a fi tting, his concentra- tion palpable, and worked through to a compilation of Ghesquière’s rapid-fi re fashion shows. Ghesquière chose to exhibit mostly his recent work, which has been rich in archival references, culminating with what he called a “reference collection” for the coming fall-winter season. The designer said the house’s heritage has helped him to become “more conscious of the very concrete elements of the brand. I think it’s now incorporated into my spirit.” And the house continues to enlarge its archive, giving it more latitude with its Balenciaga Edition label of archival reissues. “The girls love it. It’s like having new vintage clothes. It’s a very interesting concept,” said Ghesquière. “Edition has a really incredible potential. The concept is, ‘This is timeless,’ so it’s timeless forever.” The Balenciaga exhibition runs through Jan. 28 and will be followed by one de- voted to Jean Paul Gaultier’s collaborations with choreographer Régine Chopinot. — Miles Socha, with contributions from Emilie Marsh and Katya Foreman WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Maggie Cheung A 1967 wedding ensemble.

Jemima Khan and Hugh Grant François Pinault and Nicolas Ghesquière

Jennifer Connelly and Paul Bettany. A Fifties chemise dress. Charlotte A striped Gainsbourg look from the Thirties.

The “ladybug” dress. EXHIBITION PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; PARTY BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE, MICHEL DUFOUR AND FEUGERE BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; PARTY EXHIBITION PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 WWD Forum: Apparel Comp

A Tajima embroidery machine at work in Prem Industry’s factory in Tirupur, India. EMBROIDERY MACHINE PHOTO BY ARINDAM MUKHERJEE/LANDOV; PORTRAITS BY JOHN CALABRESE BY PORTRAITS ARINDAM MUKHERJEE/LANDOV; EMBROIDERY MACHINE PHOTO BY

By Cate T. Corcoran and Denise Power The three-month pilot will involve three test stores and three control stores. The handheld computers are Pocket PCs from Symbol Technologies of Holtsville, N.Y., NEW YORK — Getting product to market faster, understanding the customer and and software is from Atlanta-based Retaligent. switching to new software and systems gracefully were the main themes of a one-day New York-based Giorgio Armani Corp. has been working to enhance its relation- WWD Technology Leadership Forum held here June 22. Other topics included mer- ship with customers for several years now to improve loyalty, conversion rates and in- chandising, outsourcing and the collaborative Internet. One big issue that emerged crease the dollar value and number of units in an average transaction, said Cantrell. was the difficulty of switching to new software and processes — especially at the Customer data was analyzed “and we learned some scary information,” she said. same time. Another challenge discussed was that, like it or not, technology is always A very small segment of Armani’s total customer base in the U.S. — the top 5 per- evolving, so change is constant. cent — is responsible for a disproportionately large amount, 47 percent, of total Here’s what the speakers said: sales. That data underscored a mandate, she said: Protect that top-spending tier of customers and grow the next 30 percent tier through up-selling, cross-selling and Victoria Cantrell, senior vice president and chief information offi cer, Giorgio Armani greater loyalty. Corp., the U.S. subsidiary of Giorgio Armani SpA. The wireless test falls into the Jason Epstein Giorgio Armani Corp. will test this month an advanced selling system that may loosen company’s broader strategy for cus- sales associates’ firm grips on their so-called “black books,” while boosting sales and tomer relationship management, a shopper loyalty. discipline Cantrell has worked on for Victoria Cantrell said staff at the test stores will access customer-specifi c data eight years at both Armani and Gucci. typically recorded in notebooks — such as purchase history, style preferences and Though there are challenges, she re- size — through wireless handheld computers. The devices will also serve as a gate- mains passionate: “Some days I say I way to other resources designed to help personalize and enhance the overall shop- push the rock uphill,” she said. “But ping experience. to me, it’s the most important rock in Sales associates are deeply attached to their traditional black books, Cantrell the business.” said, and getting them to surrender the proprietary selling tool could prove diffi cult. However, wireless technology can take the black book concept to the next level and Jason Epstein, chief technology offi- support what she called “pervasive interaction” with the customer. cer, Elie Tahari Ltd. Staff will be able to access inventory information via the handhelds anywhere on Employees at Elie Tahari used to the sales fl oor or in a fi tting room, for example, rather than having to abandon a cus- spend half their day answering ques- tomer to retrieve that data from a central computer. Through the units, staff will be tions from other departments. Now issued specifi c instructions on how to solidify a relationship with a customer, based product life cycle management soft- on that individual’s history. The handhelds will also serve as a link to the fi ner points ware from Business Management of all things Armani and provide extensive details about an item in a new collection. Sys tems gives designers, sourcers “It’s important for sales associates to understand the fabrications, the styling and of fabrics and trims, sample makers Mr. Armani’s idea of how it should be worn,” Cantrell said. “It’s very important to and other employees a window into have that product knowledge.” data relating to product design, development and production — without a phone call or e-mail. All the information is available in one shared location where anyone can view it. Previously, the data was stored on individual Excel spreadsheets on users’ desktop computers. “PLM is more methodology than technology,” said Jason Epstein. “It’s about pass- ing info from one part of the supply chain to another and avoiding double entries.” In addition to freeing up employees’ time, PLM has allowed the company to purchase its trim in bulk, Epstein said. Also, managers get exception reports at the end of the day, which allows them to better manage the business. For example, they can react quickly if Tahari has bought too much or too little of a trim. However, for some employees PLM increases the workload. So it’s key that everyone understands what the gains are for the overall organization, said Epstein. It’s important to get buy-in at all levels. Also, trying to change a process while moving to new software is overwhelming to users and creates more work for them. “This is where we were failing in our own implementation,” Epstein said. Tahari took a step back, mapped out its requirements and made sure the system addressed all user needs so it could ultimately eliminate manual processes. If existing processes work, companies should create an interface to the new system, then change its process later after users are familiar with the new software. For example, in the fi rst phase of its PLM rollout, Tahari continued to do its actual costing Victoria Cantrell in its existing accounting software. Later, it switched to PLM. Partnering with users creates momentum. Users liked being able to generate line WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 11 WWD.COM panies Restyle With Systems

sheets from the software, and they started using it for other purposes, such as to plan where people can hook up with other people, is the fastest-growing site on the Web gross margins. The end-of-day exception reports were also popular with managers, because it’s complete anarchy and there are no design or editorial guidelines, said since they helped them be more successful. And if information was missing, it helped Pallot. Digg is a technology news site where the readers post links to the stories they motivate users to enter it into the system. like and vote on their ranking. “It’s real-time feedback on what the community fi nds The company has also offered an incentive for overseas suppliers to connect to interesting,” said Pallot. the system: a free day of consulting on networks and other infrastructure to sup- Similarly collaborative sites in the fashion space include MyStyleDiary and port PLM. Kaboodle. At MyStyleDiary, anyone can create a profi le and post photos of what they Tahari also realized it didn’t have a strong enough support team in place. Every wear each day and all the items in their closets. At Kaboodle, users can bookmark and department needed help, so the company brought on a few more IT people to focus tag products to create ongoing shopping lists, which can be shared with friends. on details in just one or two departments. Companies such as Nike are using the Internet to collaborate with consumers The PLM rollout, which includes Tahari’s overseas suppliers, has been going on on product design, custom-designed products and ad campaigns. Consumers want for three years and will be ongoing. In addition, the company recently put in a data to be part of the creative process, he said. warehouse with Cognos business intelligence software on top for quick analysis. As a result of the reports, Tahari’s overhead per style has decreased. In the future, the John Thompson, senior vice president company will choose two or three metrics to watch per department to increase profi t- John Thompson and general manager, Bestbuy.com, ability. For example, if the design department can reduce the number of samples it the Internet subsidiary of Best Buy produces per style, it could mean signifi cant savings for Tahari, which has 20 people Best Buy, the $31 billion consumer on its IT staff. electronics retailer with ambitions to grow $10 billion bigger in fi ve years, Michelle Garvey, global chief information offi cer, Warnaco continues to focus on the customer. Traditionally, Warnaco was a portfolio of brands that were intentionally kept sepa- But exactly how the company does it rate. Now the $1.5 billion company is moving to a single suite of products with inte- continues to evolve. grated enterprise resource planning software from SAP as its centerpiece. “We don’t have the map for how to The goal is to increase nimbleness and reduce lead times without sacrifi cing quality. get this done,” said John Thompson. When Michelle Garvey joined as Warnaco’s global chief information offi cer, the “We are still holding the compass. We company had nine ERP systems, fi ve general ledgers and 10 data warehouses. The are learning as we go.” company didn’t have consistent key performance indicators, each brand had different Launched in 2003, Best Buy’s tech packs and even brands that used the same ERP system had different purchase “customer centricity” strategy called order formats. Each season the company reinvented the wheel. for stores to cater to sharply defi ned “We believe a single integrated PLM [program] is the right answer, but we’re not customer profi les such as suburban there yet,” she said. soccer moms and gadget gurus. There The company’s approach to developing a solution is not rocket science, Garvey was even a targeted customer persona said. Committees of users compare pro- named “Carrie,” modeled after HBO’s Michelle Garvey cesses, determine best practices and “Sex and the City” character. identify priorities. The company has “That was a little bit too surgical,” developed a standard purchase order Thompson said of the highly granular form, a standard line sheet and cus- customer segmentation approach. While customer profi les remain important to the tom software that calculates costing as retailer’s evolving strategy, market and regional demographics — such as whether a changes occur. store is located in an urban or suburban setting, or which area of the country it’s in Warnaco started with swimwear, — will play an increasing role. which is vertically integrated. All Best Buy’s centricity strategy is augmented with merchandise assortment that’s other operations are sourced exter- tailored to specifi c markets and price optimization. nally. The company started rolling out Best Buy continues to mine its database of 80 million customers to gain insights PLM software but had to stop for lack into shopper behavior and brand choice. More recently, Thompson said, the compa- of resources. ny’s been tapping employees for ideas about ways to meet unique customer needs. “We are not a technology company,” “We have a goal of growing the company by an incremental $10 billion in the next said Garvey. “We are an apparel compa- fi ve years,” he said. “The traditional approach that worked in the fi rst 40 years will ny facilitated by technology.” Warnaco not be sustainable. We are going to run out of footprint in terms of opening stores in cannot afford to put all its capital into North America.” technology all the time, although its list As a result, Best Buy is expanding internationally. Last month, the Richfi eld, Minn., of needs is long. company bought a majority interest in China’s fourth-largest consumer electronics So the company is taking a staged retailer, the 136-store Jiangsu Five Star Appliance. “And we are evaluating other mar- approach, and rolling out new process- kets at the same time,” Thompson added. Best Buy operates under two banners, Best es and software one brand at a time. Buy and Future Shop, in Canada. Near-term goals include standard tech To distinguish itself in a market where product commoditization puts pressure on packs and fi t guidelines, integrating margins, Best Buy is ramping up its services business, such as Geek Squad computer costing and calendar and improving technicians and home theater installation professionals. forecasting accuracy. It all ties back to the customer centricity initiative and the drive to meet shoppers’ One of the company’s challenges is the differences between operations. When end-to-end needs for product and services, he said. Warnaco moved to a standard purchase order form, some divisions gave up functionality they didn’t know they had until it was gone, said Garvey. Different divisions have slightly different processes for a reason, and they cling to them. “Managing the Paul McFarren, senior vice president and chief information offi cer, United Retail Group psychology of this is a big piece.” Converging forces in the technology sector and retailers’ losing battle to keep pace with the latest advancements mean one thing: “Outsourcing is not an option,” said Jamie Pallot, editorial director, CondéNet Paul McFarren. “It’s a mandate.” Consumers are taking over the Internet, But that’s not bad, he said. When approached in a strategic fashion, outsourcing to said Jamie Pallot, editorial director of a third party allows small and midsize retailers to innovate faster because they can CondéNet at Condé Nast Publications Jamie Pallot tap skills and computing power of a much larger organization without the inherent (which owns WWD). They are creating burdens. The $439 million United Retail Group, which operates 500 Avenue apparel their own media content and that’s where stores, outsources its mainframe operations to IBM. the action is — not at the top-down sites of The speed at which technology is advancing along with vendor consolidation cre- traditional media outlets. ates complexity and systems integration woes that retailers didn’t have to cope with Blogging and tagging are two important years ago, McFarren added. Tackling these challenges without outside help is getting aspects of this trend. Blogs are journals, harder, particularly for retailers with lean IT staffs. usually on a narrow topic, that are self- McFarren did not suggest all systems be outsourced, but advised companies to published by one individual. Tagging is an consider the option as they evaluate new investments in technology, including infra- emerging method of organizing material structure upgrades such as faster networks. Think of infrastructure as a kind of utility on the Web such as photos. For example, that all applications need to run. “How many of you generate your own electricity?” users who publish photos on Flickr can he asked. “Nobody does that, right? Because it wouldn’t be strategically differentiat- tag them with descriptive words such as ing for you to do that.” “streetwear,” “vacation” and “South of About 75 percent of IT infrastructure will be outsourced by 2015, he noted, citing France” so other users can fi nd them by research from Gartner. searching the site. Farming out infrastructure to a third party does not mean relinquishing control, “Tagging has implications for merchan- he said, acknowledging that retailers have a tendency to be “control freaks.” “By ac- dise on the Web,” Pallot said. The Web is a cepting responsibility for infrastructure, you actually lose control because you can’t huge fi ling system where you can fi nd any- hope to keep up,” he said. thing you want on any topic. “It’s a way to “The software evolution is not going to stop. It’s going faster and software vendors fi nd other people who like the same stuff you are being pressured to deliver functionality at a rate that is unheard of,” McFarren do and you can form communities with other said. For example, IBM revealed a few weeks ago that it’s testing a 500 gigahertz mi- people with the same interest,” he said. crochip, which is more than 100 times faster than today’s processors. “This means all Important sites include MySpace, Flickr the software vendors are going to have to fi gure out how to take advantage of all this and Digg. Social networking site MySpace, Continued on page 12 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 Tech Closes Gap Between Product, Consumer

Continued from page 11 manner, technology is usually customized to support unique practices. However, that processor speed and capability,” McFarren said. leads to infl exible systems producing confl icting data that’s tough to reconcile across Paul McFarren The solutions they develop could undermine divisions. the massive investments companies have already “Many companies have legacy systems that have been built over many years by dif- made in enterprise resource planning systems, he ferent people with good intentions but it was [adequate only for] a moment in time,” said. “For those of you who have just implemented he said. “And so systems in this space often do not support a process fl ow.” an ERP solution, I’m sorry,” McFarren said, “be- Replacing numerous systems that operate in a silo fashion with one big enterprise cause you’re going to have to do it again. This is resource planning system solves the integration problem, but they lack advanced ca- the ‘technology-forced march.’ ” pabilities for tailored assortment planning, Kramer said. Further complicating the situation, he said, WE International BV, an apparel retailer in Utrecht, Netherlands, with 220 stores is the rate at which technology vendors are ac- in six countries, is among those reaping benefi ts from better merchandise planning quiring other technology companies. “They will practices, he said. The company, which sells women’s, men’s and children’s apparel, spend a lot less time creating an end-to-end soft- reduced inventory 20 percent and reduced markdowns by up to 10 percent after im- ware solution that makes it easy for you and a lot plementing merchandise planning software from i2 Technologies, he said. WE is also more time worrying about how they are going to beginning to use assortment planning software from i2. get their money out of the acquisitions they have The traditional push of retailing is shifting made,” he said. to the pull of consumer demand. “We [retailers] As a result, retailers will contend with more don’t want to be selling things that our company systems integration challenges than ever. buys,” he said. “We want to be buying things our Kathryn McFarren said these forces will push more stores sell.” Cullen companies toward outsourcing, but such arrange- ments should be entered thoughtfully. Kathryn Cullen, vice president, Kurt Salmon “Be careful. Outsourcing does not mean you can abdicate the management of the Associates solution. Outsourcing is best suited toward removing the operational aspects of the Traditional companies can boost profi tability solution, but not the management,” McFarren said. by “acting vertical” and adopting the collaborative practices, technology and customer focus of Chuck Kramer, senior vice president, general manager, Retail Industry Group, i2 vertically integrated companies, said Kathryn Technologies Cullen at Kurt Salmon Associates, an Atlanta The pressure to assort stores according to local demand is mounting. No longer is it consulting fi rm. acceptable to bulk up on inventory just to hedge against out- “Vertical organizations have of-stocks on style, size and colors. “Wall Street is not very Chuck Kramer 50 percent better earnings than favorable of that approach anymore,” said Chuck Kramer, some of the traditional models,” who joined the Retail Industry Group at i2 Technologies she said, citing KSA research this year after a 19-year stint at Payless ShoeSource. that compared earnings before Disjointed internal processes and infl exible technology interest and tax for both types are the saboteurs preventing retailers from tailoring their of companies. Apparel compa- merchandise mix to local markets, he said. Still, some are nies should take cues from the making progress on this front. vertical sector and develop what she called an intelligent supply net- Payless is one of them. The tailoring is such that the re- work. tailer develops one footwear product mix for its store on “This is a supply network that is more parallel, rather than se- Chicago’s Michigan Avenue and another assortment for a quential” in how processes such as design, sourcing, procurement store located just three blocks away, off Michigan Avenue and product fl ow are carried out. Such a network links multiple chan- and near public transportation, he said. The company rec- nels of distribution and includes not only suppliers, but other part- ognizes that tourists shopping the Magnifi cent Mile are ners such as those providing transportation and logistics. looking for different offerings than commuters. One way to get started, Cullen said, is through collaborative prod- The strategy is easy enough to understand, but diffi cult uct development processes and software that allow retailers and sup- to execute because assortment planning at most retailers is pliers to share information and streamline workfl ow. Companies that not a cohesive process, he said. Typically, a merchandise fi - have swapped out spreadsheet-based systems with integrated prod- nancial plan that establishes top-level targets such as sales uct development management systems report improved cycle times, and margin goals is developed by one group of people. That reduced costs and margin increases of 5 to 10 percent, she said. plan is handed off to another group responsible for buying “The bottom line is by acting vertical across the whole supply net- and assortment planning. A third group carries out the plan work, time is measured in days and you start to gain speed and vis- by managing allocation and replenishment, but there may ibility, and if you can do that, you will be more profi table.” be little or no dialogue among the three groups and no coordination of workfl ow. Robert McKee, industry strategy director for Lawson fashion, Lawson Because no two companies plan in exactly the same In the fashion supply chain of the future, shoppers will drag and drop images of the styles they want from sites such as MyStyleDiary to MyDesign and then MySource and Lectra will develop the under- lying technology to make them, quipped Robert Robert McKee McKee of Lawson That would be a truly intimate supply chain, he said. But until then, fashion companies need to have one version of the truth so they can work more closely with suppliers and give customers what they want, rather than trying to sell what the vendors happen to have. The industry’s focus should be on pull, not push, he said. McKee has held senior-level sourcing and operations positions with a variety of apparel companies, including Warnaco. Lawson makes enterprise resource planning software. ERP is a single software solution that potentially touches all parts of a company. ERP consists of modules of software that cover functions such as forecasting and demand management, resource planning, operational management such as customer and supplier relations, inventory control and warehouse management. ERP’s advantage is that each module is linked to every other module so that it offers one source of truth, so everyone is playing from the same sheet of music. Data must only be entered once, and it is visible to everyone. ERP eliminates islands of information and is a critical enabler for working with supply chain partners, McKee said. Another benefi t: It enables the transition to “lean” principles because it removes wasted motions and dollars from the process, he said. Following certain rules will help ease the move to ERP. First, WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 13 WWD.COM defi ne business issues and processes. Then appar- Neco Can David Rode el companies should defi ne where they want to be. Only then should they select a software provider. And after that step, they can choose supply chain partners.

Neco Can, chief technology offi cer, International RFID Business Association A problem that plagues apparel companies is inac- curate data, said Neco Can, formerly with J. Crew, Abercrombie & Fitch and Gap. Apparel companies need correct data so they can share it internally and manage their processes better, he said. Companies such as Wal-Mart are turning to Master Data Management, or MDM, an effort to reconcile inconsistent data and formats within a company. Wal-Mart is one of the best companies in this regard, with data accuracy of 85 to 90 percent. Specialty retailers typically have data accuracy rates of 60 to 70 percent, he said. Old Navy, Banana Republic and Gap have the same customer, but the company is decentralized so it doesn’t have a single view, said Can. Each customer appears in multiple databases. Common issues that all retailers have include contradic- tory spreadsheets, the struggle to get global sales data and the diffi culty of calculating margin across an organization. The solution is a data hub so everyone has the same view. Better data will lead to better planning, allocation and customer management. This in turn will increase service levels, Can said. NEW SCHOOL He admitted improving data accuracy is costly, and said it’s important to know why you want to do it. Radio frequency identifi ca- tion, or RFID, is one tool that OLD SCHOOL can help manufacturers get a better grip on what merchandise is in their stores. But it comes at a price, he said. Wal-Mart will probably never put RFID tags on most of the stockkeeping units it sells because tag prices will never reach an affordable 2 cents or 3 cents, he said. But right now, data accuracy is, on average, at 67 percent, and Can said he wants to take it to 95 percent. “It’s not just data,” he said. “It’s how you can know your customer.”

David Rode, North American president, Lectra Product life cycle management can help companies be more competitive by synchronizing activities from design to shipping, said David Rode. It helps unite design staff, accounting and suppliers — three groups that traditionally don’t always mix well. A changing world means apparel companies need to make better garments faster and more cheaply. Consumers want innovation, yet are sensitive to price. There are fewer players and more competition. Although companies have Shoppers want to be treated as individuals. Building one-to-one relationships with your customers moved production offshore to is the best way to create the perfect sales environment. It is also why you should learn more about lower costs, they also spend more than in the past to manage Retaligent. Our advanced mobile, hand-held, POS, web and kiosk advanced selling tools will that global process and for shipping, said Rode. empower your associates with the customer knowledge and product expertise they need to personalize Today the biggest barrier to each sale at the point of decision - anywhere in the store. PLM adoption is the diffi culty of adopting new business processes, not technical problems such Learn how Retaligent can help you implement strategies that improve conversion, increase basket size and as integrating software. Companies can now choose build lifetime value. So, make a splash with your customers and let Retaligent set you apart from the between PLM programs de- competition. Call 770.379.0440, email [email protected] or visit us at www.retaligent.com. signed to work in a variety of industries, such as aerospace, or PLM programs that are apparel- specifi c. Apparel-oriented PLM software includes design tools such as sketching, color management, prototyping and pattern design. In the future, PLM might include 3-D virtual prototyping, he said. Such programs already ©2006 Retaligent Solutions Inc. All rights reserved. exist, but they are not yet tied into PLM systems. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 WWD.COM The Colorful Fernando Sanchez By Karyn Monget Fernando Sanchez in 1965. NEW YORK — Fernando Sanchez, the designer who established the concept of luxuri- ous at-homewear that could be worn as eveningwear, was remembered as having as colorful a personality and way of life as the clothes he created. Sanchez died June 28 at his Manhattan home at the age of 70. The cause of death was complications from a sand fl y bite. He had been battling the parasitic disease visceral leishmaniasis, which he contracted in Morocco two years ago. Sanchez was renowned in international circles for his eccentricity, dry sense of humor and love of a good party, whether it was hanging out in the Seventies at Studio 54 with Andy Warhol, Halston, Liza Minnelli, Bianca Jagger and Paloma Picasso; dancing until dawn at La Palace in Paris with Pierre Bergé and Loulou de la Falaise, or throw- ing live jazz-quartet parties at his Moroccan-decorated home at the landmark New York building, The Osborne. Even at age 60, Sanchez was a familiar fi gure in the downtown Sanchez (center) club scene, sporting his over- with Yves Saint sized black-rimmed sunglasses Laurent at the and black-lacquer cigarette hold- 1978 launch er, always wearing black leather party for Opium pants, Nehru velvet jackets and perfume. pointed, fl amenco-style boots. But for Sanchez, the allure and excitement of nonstop parties was not just a way of life, it was a constant source of inspiration for his prolifi c designs, which for fi ve decades spanned leisurewear, accessories, lingerie, furs, ready-to-wear and eveningwear. Dividing his time between New York, Paris and Marrakech, where he main- tained a villa near a vacation home of longtime friend Yves Saint Laurent, Sanchez was fond of saying he was “stimulated by the pulse and mys- tery of city streets, both by day and night.” “I was also stimulated by the allure of certain women in my life, by the sumptuous Sanchez’s colors of Morocco, the Moorish world and the light of the Mediterranean,” Sanchez dressy — whose Manhattan home featured huge, rococo gilt-frame mirrors, furnishings of boudoir cedar- and sandalwood, large ivory crucifi xes and low, white cotton-swathed sofas and fare, circa chairs — once told WWD. 1981. He said he often gleaned ideas for his rich and colorful at-homewear — caftans and robes reminiscent of Moroccan silhouettes in desert neutrals or deep, vibrant hues of a sunrise, sunset or the ocean — from music, especially the guitar, and what he described as “the indolent dreams of harem life as it must have been.” Born in Spain, but having lived much of his early life in Antwerp, Belgium, where his grandfather owned a shipping company, Sanchez was fond of saying his formative years were a “secluded life of books and imaginary travels.” Jano Herbosch, Sanchez’s cousin and business partner, recalled on Friday, “His mother was very infl uential in exposing him to fashion, culture and the arts. He was a very curious boy, and even when he was eight, he was already doing drawings of characters that looked like Flash Gordon.” A thirst for travel and adventure led Sanchez to the City of Light, where at age 17 his mother, Yull, took him to see his fi rst Parisian fashion show, a couture collection by Jacques Fath. fabrics. In 1990, he received the Hispanic That was the turning point for Sanchez, who presented his own fashion designs to Fath Fashion Designers Award for distinction and was encouraged by the couturier to enroll in the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute in design, and in 1995, was honored by the Couture in Paris. Sanchez, who befriended fellow classmate Saint Laurent, pursued an U.S. Department of Commerce and received internship at the House of Nina Ricci and later followed Saint Laurent to the House of the Salute to American Fashion Designers Dior. Earlier, he worked for the design house Maggy Rouff, then Hirsch of Brussels. Award for Excellence in American Design. “It was a classic, if uninspiring design education,” Sanchez would often recount Just as his life could have been a screen- to friends. play, Sanchez said he was inspired to move to New York in the early Sixties after see- But that fashion education led to several major honors: three Coty Awards in ing the motion picture “West Side Story.” He told WWD several years ago he came to the Seventies — one for Excellence in Furs [1975], and two for elevating lingerie as America because it was “extremely lucrative. I fell in love with New York and the life.” high fashion products, as well as a Council of Fashion Designers of America Award He continued working for Dior in the U.S. for a couple of years, then accepted an in 1981 for Excellence in At-Homewear and Lingerie. In 1988, Sanchez received the offer by the bra and at-homewear company Warner’s, for which he designed under his Viyella Fabrex Award in London for his creative use of traditional cotton and wool label. He later designed furs for Revillon for 10 years, and then opened an at-homewear and lingerie company bearing his name in 1973. Sanchez’s Designer de la Falaise, a longtime muse and friend, said, “He intro- classic duced me to Yves Saint Laurent in 1968. He was a very sensitive, very velour private person with very deep friendships. He gave the world of fashion leggings a very easy-going sexiness that was very colorful and joyful. His love of and wrap [American and African] black, Latin and Moroccan music was refl ected jacket, in his clothes, and he liked people to show off, dance, and attract men.” circa Mary Krug, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of 2000. intimate apparel and hosiery at Neiman Marcus, said, “I think he was a very talented man. He had a great sense of color and style, and I felt he really understood women. He really listened to women and was very open to input and discussion. His iconic tri-tone robe is a favorite for women of all ages.” Krug added that the Fernando Sanchez business at Neiman’s is “well established and continues to be a very desirable brand for our customer. I think the people running it now will be able to keep his spirit alive.” Regarding the future of the Fernando Sanchez business, Neil Mossberg, president of parent company Yalla LLC, said the company “may continue to design in-house or look for another lead designer.” “We plan to continue to maintain good relationships with Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as scores of smaller specialty stores,” said Mossberg. “We are launching a collection exclusively for bou- Sanchez’s tiques next spring and we also will be launching a secondary line, FS2 by lynx A silk evening Fernando Sanchez, for spring 2007. It will be aimed at department stores.” jacket for gown from As for Sanchez’s wishes following his death, de la Falaise said, “When Revillon, Sanchez’s his companion, Quentin, died 10 years ago, Fernando threw a huge cele- circa 1994 bration of life party for him. And, of course, everybody came and partied 1972. collection. and had loads of fun. That’s what Fernando had planned for himself, a huge party to celebrate his life.” WWD TECHNOLOGY LEADERSHIP FORUM June 22, 2006 Thank You! The Condé Nast Theatre, New York, NY We salute our sponsor partners.

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FREIGHTEK INC. LECTRA Donna Stelzer: 267.620.2513 David Rode: 212.704.4004 Torex Retail Steve Davis: 925.398.8213 i2 Technologies Inc. Paxar Adam Hatch: 617.551.2715 Chris Robins: 914.697.6808 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 WWD.COM Korean Economic Ties Debated Fashion Scoops By Nia Elizabeth Shepherd Manufacturers are eligible to set up offi ces in LADIES FIRST: Rising men’s wear star Kris Van Assche, considered a one of the foreign investment zones if they have an possible successor to Hedi Slimane should talks to renew Slimane’s NEW YORK — As officials prepare for the sec- investment of $30 million or more and if the goal is contract at Dior Homme fail, had a surprise up his sleeve on Saturday. At ond round of talks on the U.S.-Korean Free Trade to build plants and facilities. Investors would have his runway show in Paris during men’s fashion week, the Belgian designer Agreement, representatives and business leaders 50-year rent-free leases. They also would be ex- included about a dozen looks for women — and seated only female editors of both countries met here last week to discuss in- empt from national taxes for seven years and local in the front row as a gallant gesture. His prim white shirts, gray slacks and vesting in South Korea. taxes for as many as 15 years. These zones are lo- pert trenches were worn by a gaggle of famous models from the Eighties. “I am bullish on Korea as a country; more cated in several cities, including Geumui, Inju and than I have ever been,’’ former U.S. Ambassador Cheonan. Only companies that are 100 percent for- SOPHIA’S CHOICE: The owners of the Vionnet trademark will announce Donald Gregg said last week during KWR eign owned or joint ventures would be eligible to this week that Sophia Kokosolaki will pick up the design reins and International’s Korea Investment Forum at the move into the Foreign Investment Zones. relaunch the brand for spring 2007, WWD has learned. The London- New York Palace Hotel. “The core of the relation- Companies investing in South Korea include based designer, no slouch with a bias cut and elegant draping, has been ship [between the U.S. and South Korea] is now Federated Department Stores, Christian Dior, in talks to revive the storied Madeleine Vionnet name since last year. becoming an economic one.” Groupe Pinault-Printemps and J.C. Penney. With KWR was host of the event with the Korean added free trade and economic zones, more retail- STARS COME OUT: Cher and Lenny Kravitz, hosts of a Chrome Hearts store Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Energy; ers and suppliers are expected to invest in Korea, opening in Paris on Tuesday night, aren’t the only celebrities in town for Korean Trade-Investment Promotion Agency, and according to Invest Korea. couture week. Word has it that the galaxy of stars should include Kylie investment fi rm Invest Korea. Panelists includ- Another investment attraction of Korea is its Minogue, Tilda Swinton, Elizabeth Hurley, Martha Stewart, Liv Tyler, Billy Joel, ed Sye-Kyun Chung, minister of MOCIE; Yong- “business-friendly” labor environment. Korea has Justin Chambers, Harvey Weinstein, Claudia Cardinale and up-and-coming Deuk Lee, president of the Federation of Korean been known to have a history of labor disputes, Japanese actress Reiko Kikuchi from the forthcoming fi lm “Babel.” Trade Unions, and Tami Overby, president of the but Yong-Deuk Lee and others have worked to fos- American Chamber of Commerce in Korea. ter a good relationship between workers and man- MANGO COUTURE: Now even couture is getting a piece of High Street The South Korean government has created ini- agers. The union also is supporting foreign direct action. Following H&M’s announcement of its imminent collaboration tiatives to lure foreign companies to invest by set- investment in the country. with the Dutch ready-to-wear duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of ting up Free Trade Zones, Foreign Investment Zones Overby encouraged the business community to Viktor & Rolf, the Spanish chain Mango has selected Beirut couturier and Free Economic Zones, Chung said. The Foreign invest in South Korea, saying that the investment cli- Zuhair Murad — who’ll be showing his collection Friday in Paris during Investment Zones will be designated for sections of mate has changed in the last 10 years and that “the couture week — to design a limited-edition capsule collection for fall. an industrial complex. They will be reserved for for- nomenclature ‘dynamic Korea’ is absolutely true.” The casual and evening line, dubbed Mango by Zuhair Murad, will eign-owned fi rms or joint ventures, and units would The government is working on becoming more be distributed in Mango stores across the Middle East. Mango, which be leased. All goods entering the Free Trade Zones transparent and is adopting global market stan- counts 916 doors in 84 countries, opened its fi rst Middle East boutique would be exempt from customs duties and open to dards, she said. Although many investors are look- in Kuwait in 1997, and today has 46 stores in the region. foreign-invested companies involved in exports, ing toward China, Overby said, “American compa- manufacturing or wholesale trading internationally. nies are profi table and are easily able to repatriate PART AND PARCEL: Why shouldn’t the postman be chic? UPS thinks he The Free Economic Zones are near airports and can that money, and this is something that my col- should. That’s why the package delivery company has lent its support include residential and medical facilities. leagues in China tell me [is] not that easy to do.” to designers in Paris in exchange for their reinterpretation of the company’s brown uniform. Anne Valerie Hash and Michel Klein have been selected to receive UPS sponsorship this season for their shows in Paris during couture week. Last year, UPS sponsored designers including Shanghai Tang Sponsors Design Students Adam Jones and Felipe Oliveira Baptista. By Constance Haisma-Kwok STEFANEL COURTING CAMPBELL: It looks like Marithe & Francois Liu-Wei-Cheng Girbaud’s creative director Claire Campbell is about to launch her own HONG KONG — Shanghai Tang spon- collection with Italy’s manufacturing company Stefanel SpA. A Stefanel sored the final project for the first- spokeswoman said the company is talking to Campbell but a deal has ever graduating class from Beijing’s yet to be signed. “We are negotiating but it’s not yet defi nitive,” the Central Academy of Fine Arts’ newly spokeswoman said. Stefanel’s Interfashion unit has a long-standing established Fashion Design Division. relationship with Girbaud. It produces Girbaud’s Spqrcity line for the The university is considered the European and U.S. markets and the jeans collection for Europe and the most prestigious fine arts education- Middle East. Stefanel once boasted a larger designer profi le, including al institution in China. licenses for CK Calvin Klein and G. Gigli but over the years, its portfolio “This is among the most impor- has dwindled down to just the Girbaud business. tant things I have done,” said Joanna Ooi, creative director of Shanghai Tang, who Halter personally mentored the 10 dress with students chosen for the pro- streamers gram. She said about a year from Guo Azzaro, Porsche Sign Deal ago she fi rst approached the Ze Han. fashion school’s dean, Lü PARIS — Parfums Azzaro has signed a long-term partnership Yue, to see how Shanghai of originality than I actually wit- agreement with The Porsche Design Group, a subsidiary of the Tang could organize an in- nessed,” said Ooi. “There was an famed carmaker that produces Porsche brand accessories, to ternship program. Instead, absolute lack of copying.” create and distribute men’s fragrances. Lü suggested the company Ooi said such creativity will Financial terms of the deal were not disclosed. sponsor the school’s first be essential to mainland China The fi rst Porsche scent under the new fragrance brand is ex- graduation project and in the coming years. “As China pected to be introduced in early 2008. It will be sold through the show, based on a theme of its becomes less manufacturing- distribution network of Groupe Clarins, Parfums Azzaro’s owner. choosing. based, they must fi nd ways to add Executives at Azzaro and Porsche Design were effusive in Ooi chose the theme “The value. The demand for creativity praising the new agreement. Deconstruction of the Qi will grow. They don’t recognize “The strong emotional brand values of Porsche Design, as Pao” as the project’s thesis, the need to be original yet, but well as the expertise of the Porsche Design Studio, are the ideal not only because it is one they soon will,” she said. platform for the launch of new fragrances: clear and linear of the basic elements of de- The class graduated last shapes, fi nest traditional aspects of perfumery, together with sign at Shanghai Tang (and week, and the garments now the modern technol- of classic Chinese dresses), are on display at the univer- ogy of the packaging but also to challenge the sity before going on a road will allow us to join students in their think- show of sorts. Selected pieces and enhance the ing. She ran into hurdles will be shown in Shanghai lifestyle of Porsche BEAUTY BEAT when realizing that terms Tang stores around the world, Design,” said Gerard like “deconstruction” have starting with the fl agship in Delcour, president of Parfums Azzaro, in a statement. no direct translation into Hong Kong. Added Siegmund Rudigier, president and chief executive of- Chinese. “We had to explain Ooi intends to offer an intern- fi cer of the Porsche Design Group, in the statement, “Our new what we meant, so we would ship to the most promising stu- fragrance line for men will strengthen our luxury product port- describe it in 10 different dent. She added that Shanghai folio and is therefore an important step for our brand.” ways to give clues, and we Tang will continue to work on The Porsche Design Group, based in Bietigheim-Bissingen, used lots of examples. I had such projects, but not neces- Germany, is a subsidiary of Porsche AG and has a business fo- to explain that even though sarily limited to fashion design. cused on men’s accessories. The company is currently widening the qi pao was banned years Next year’s program is likely to its offer through licensing agreements to include electronics, ago, it is still a touchstone focus on product design. furniture, fashion and sports products. of signifi cance for Chinese “I decided that it’s incum- Paris-based Parfums Azzaro generated over 95 million euros, people. The students had to bent on Shanghai Tang to give or $121 million, in sales last year. More than 91 percent of its really examine and research back to designers, especially business is rung up from products for men. the topic,” she said. those in mainland China, who The Azzaro-Porsche partnership is the latest in a fl eet of The results were surprising. don’t have the exposure of beauty-carmaker deals. Lotus recently signed on Distinguished While some took the notion of deconstruction quite those in the West.” Ooi said. “We are the only Fragrance Brands Ltd. and Riviera Concepts creates Hummer literally, others interpreted the traditional dress as international brand from China and it’s really fragrances, to name but two. a kind of bondage. “I was expecting a lower level our responsibility.” — Jennifer Weil DO YOU BELIEVE IN M AGIC? PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA PHOTOS BY DONATO MAGIC Preview MAGIC First Day Coated Stock Supplement: August 14 Section II: August 28 Closing Date: July 10 Closing Date: August 11 Materials Due: July 17 Materials Due: August 16

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For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior vice president, group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 WWD.COM A rendering of The WWD West Broadmoor’s new The Grove Is Set retail space. For A&F Flagship LOS ANGELES — After almost a year of construction, the building-size advertisements in front of Abercrombie & Fitch’s flagship at The Grove here have finally come down. The three-story location — an expansion of an 11,622- square-foot Abercrombie — is to open July 15. With roughly 21,000 square feet of selling space, the store is Retail Expansion slightly smaller than the company’s fi rst fl agship, which launched in November on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. A third Abercrombie & Fitch fl agship is under construction At Rockies’ Resort in London on a former Jil Sander site. By Holly Haber “The Grove is a world-class location heavily traffi cked by tourists,” said Tom Lennox, an Abercrombie & Fitch DALLAS — The Broadmoor, a five-star hotel spokesman. “We had space there [since 2002], but really and resort at the foot of the Rockies in Colorado had an opportunity to expand the store and make the in- Springs, Colo., sees opportunity in retail. store experience truly special.” The property has added a shopping village The store is at the east end of the mall, just off a grassy of eight stores to the 15 shops in its nine build- area with a circular fountain. The original Abercrombie & ings. The Broadmoor built the 11,400-square- Fitch unit at The Grove expanded into space on both sides foot shopping plaza because retail is a growing, that mall owner Caruso Affi liated had planned to turn into profi table and important service for guests, said additional offi ce space. Steve Bartolin, president and chief executive “The store was bursting at the seams and they ap- offi cer of The Broadmoor. proached us,” Todd Russell, senior vice president of leas- “We look at retail at our resort as much of ing for Caruso Affi liated, said during a tour of the store. an amenity as golf or spa or tennis and any of “[Chief executive offi cer and chairman] Michael Jeffries the other activities we offer,” Bartolin said. “So has a goal and a vision and they’ve spent an enormous many hotels look at retail as a sundry shop or amount of money on this.” gift shop and logo shop and it’s kind of an after- When the Fifth Avenue store opened, Jeffries said it thought, but in our eyes, having unique, high- would serve as a prototype for international stores, and end shopping experiences adds to the attrac- the Los Angeles fl agship mimics its New York counterpart tiveness of the whole resort.” in look and feel. Among the tenants in the new space is Wall panels, window louvers and fl oors in dark, rich Balliet’s, which is celebrating its 70th anniver- wood set an understated stage for a three-story historical- sary in September as one of Oklahoma City’s looking mural depicting well-muscled sportsmen in action. Abercrombie & Fitch’s fl agship at The Grove. leading luxury stores. Balliet’s opened a 1,000-

Freestanding glass display cases pepper the store, and TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY square-foot designer boutique Saturday at the a glass staircase embedded with tiny lights winds up its new center, which features a red tiled roof and three fl oors. Grove, including J. Crew, Banana Republic, Coach and Mediterranean-style architecture. The center is Dressing rooms are Spartan but spacious — and plenti- Anthropologie — a stable Caruso Affi liated has been nur- tentatively called The Shops at The Broadmoor. ful. “One of the challenges I think they noticed in the New turing since the shopping center opened in 2002. Other stores in the plaza include a prestige York store is that there aren’t enough dressing rooms,” Abercrombie & Fitch, based in New Albany, Ohio, op- cosmetics boutique, a full-service bridal bou- Russell said. “I think they fi xed that here.” erates more than 300 stores in the U.S. and Canada, most tique, a travel shop, a book and game store, a Two checkout stations — with a total of 14 cash regis- inside better shopping malls. With this addition, there will fl orist, a Broadmoor Lifestyle store featuring ters — are on the top two fl oors. be 45 Abercrombie & Fitch stores in California. signature resort items from martini shakers The store joins more than a dozen fl agships at The — Emili Vesilind to mattresses and a western fashion and home store inspired by The Broadmoor’s sister property, Hotel Jerome in Aspen, Colo. The Broadmoor’s existing stores sell upscale spa, hair, golf and tennis products, women’s fashion, fi ne and fashion jewelry, fi ne art, home furnishings and kitchenware sundries and signature logo goods. A rendering of SouthBridge in Scottsdale, Ariz. Bob Benham, Balliet’s owner, said he’s been visiting the resort for years and was asked to consider opening a store there by his neighbor, Christy Gaylord Everest, chairman and ceo of Oklahoma Publishing Co., which owns The Broadmoor. Benham forecast $800 a foot in sales at Scottsdale Mixes It Up With Boutiques Balliet’s at The Broadmoor, which will carry designer sportswear and accessories, including such By Holly Haber to offer. Forty [independent fashion] stores have opened labels as Michael Kors, Etro and St. John Knits. here in the last fi ve years, so this is a great opportunity “We had no plans to expand, but this was DALLAS — The Mix, a fashion emporium housing about for them to spread out.” such a wonderful and serendipitous marriage 25 small boutiques, is to open in February near down- Croll has given themes — Live, Nest and Play — to of two high-quality entities that we decided to town Scottsdale, Ariz. the clusters of shops that will be in the SouthBridge do it,” he said. Modeled on Los Angeles-based Fred Segal’s concept buildings, each featuring courtyards and verandas. of multiple-leased shops stocking forward fashions, The Live will occupy 15,000 square feet of the 44,000- Mix will have more than 20,000 square feet of fashion, square-foot structure, presenting 300- to 500-square- home and beauty products within a new development foot boutiques with interconnected dressing rooms. called SouthBridge that is being built by Spring Creek The building also will have a cafe, lemonade stand and WEST WATCH Development. SouthBridge, totaling 96,000 square feet offi ces. The majority of shops will be leased to local re- and overlooking the Arizona Canal, is within walking tailers who want a downtown outpost, but there likely MERRICK’S MOVE: Nicole Richie distance of Scottsdale Fashion Square, anchored by will be a few designers from the East and West Coasts, and actresses Cheryl Hines, Jennie Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Macy’s and Dillard’s. Croll said. She intends to take 1,300 square feet herself Garth and Julie Bowen helped The Mix will occupy three of SouthBridge’s four to create a men’s shop and a couple of other concepts. famed Los Angeles retailer Diane buildings, along with restaurants and cafes. The fourth Croll estimated the merchants will do sales of $700 a Merrick mark the relocation and is a 44,000-square-foot structure of offi ces and three square foot. expansion of her eponymous store Retailer restaurants to open next spring, a Spring Creek spokes- “In a small space, you can really maximize your last month. Merrick, who closed the Diane woman said. sales,” she said, citing her own first store in San 1,200-square-foot shop on Melrose Merrick SouthBridge is one of six major projects near Francisco, which was 300 square feet and did $1,200 a Avenue after 35 years to open a and Nicole Scottsdale and Camelback roads on the edge of foot its fi rst year. Croll has stores in Dallas and Newport 2,800-square-foot boutique on Richie. Scottsdale’s historic downtown. The Scottsdale Beach, Calif., as well as in Scottsdale. Beverly Boulevard, thought about Waterfront mixed-use center opened in March on the Nest, with 2,700 square feet of retail space, will offer retiring last year, but said: “I just couldn’t give it up. It’s canal, and developments under construction nearby in- a furniture store, linen shop, garden boutique and fl o- in my blood. So why not take things to the next level?” clude the W Scottsdale Hotel and Residences, Optima rist. A martini lounge and a dinner-only restaurant will Richie, who chatted with DJ Samantha Ronson Camelview Village luxury condos, Riverwalk Square occupy the rest of the 5,000-square-foot building. behind the turntables, said, “I think it’s great she’s in residences and business lofts and Portales Place lux- Play’s 2,700 square feet of retail will have a toy store, a new location, so I just came to support her.” ury condos. bead bar, scrapbook and card-making shop and mini spa. The bar served up vodka martinis as guests mingled Jennifer Croll, who owns six eponymous contempo- Spring Creek, headed by founder and president Fred and browsed racks with contemporary brands such rary fashion stores and is based in Scottsdale, is mer- Unger, is best known for its restoration and redevelop- as True Religion, James Perse, YaYa, Vince, Splendid chandising the retail component of SouthBridge. ment of the luxury Royal Palms Hotel in Phoenix and and Tart. “We’re doing what we did in the old store, “We have an opportunity to turn this into a cool walk- the Hermosa Inn in Scottsdale. The company plans only more of it,” Merrick said. The event benefi ted the ing district, which we don’t have,” Croll said. “I want to to add a residential component to SouthBridge, the Revlon/UCLA Women’s Cancer Research Program. celebrate The Mix as being the best that Scottsdale has spokeswoman said. — Emili Vesilind PHOTO BY STEFANIE KENNAN STEFANIE PHOTO BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 19

Women’s Contemporary Manufacturer/Retailer seeks a: Retail Director Responsibilities include, but are not limited to: •Direction of all activities within the company’s 3 boutiques (Palm Springs,LA & NY (opening Fall 2006), Outlet Store, e-commerce site and future store openings. •Ensure staff development: Recruit, select, train, develop, evaluate, motivate and manage the performance of your Store Managers and Sales Associates. •Buy Trina Turk Collection & non-Trina Turk accessory lines for the boutiques & website •Plan open-to-buy, monitor inventory levels and analyze sales to ensure financial success through sales. •Present sales analysis information to design team and make recommendations •System Administrator to POS System •Oversee visual merchandising to ensure boutiques are in line with company standard •Marketing/Advertising: coordinate store events, work with graphics dept to create collateral for stores, manage current ad campaigns & research new advertising outlets Qualified candidates must possess the following requirements: •Bachelor degree required DESIGNER •Mimimum of 5-7 years experience in Fashion Retail LaFiore Lingerie Management and Visual Merchandising. Major lingerie sleepwear company •Experience in new store openings has an immediate opening for an •Knowledge of POS Systems (Matrix a plus) experienced Designer. Sleepwear / •Must be a strong leader, hands-on, possess ability to multi- Daywear for women & children. task and have strong communication and interpersonal skills. Prepare rough & detailed draw- •Position based in Alhambra, CA (just east of downtown LA) ings. Photoshop / Illustrator, CAD. •Must have the ability to travel and work some weekends Fax resumes to 510/490-2804 or We offer a great work environment. Compensation E-mail: [email protected] commensurate with experience. Clothing Allowance, 401K,medical/dental insurance and vacation. trinaturk.com Please send resumes to Andrea Ginsburg Fax: 626.457.8439 Email: [email protected]

EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITIES Merchandise Coordinator Loro Piana has an outstanding opportunity available in the JAMES PERSE, a designer and manufacturer of women’s wholesale division. Candidates must have a minimum of 5 and men’s contemporary apparel is seeking responsible, yrs exp in luxury/designer clothing either as a merchandise committed, and highly energetic professionals with a developed sense of contemporary style to fill the following coordinator or dept mgr. positions: Responsibilities will include visually presenting Loro Piana RETAIL SALES DIRECTOR product; developing, building & managing relationships with 3 years experience minimum as Retail Director managing Based in Boulder Colorado, there’s more to Fresh Produce accounts; & conducting in store seminars. Travel required. Sportswear than just our interesting name. We’ve been in multiple retail locations including startup. Candidates must Must have excellent interpersonal and communication skills. have a proven track-record of achieving sales goals, providing the apparel business for over 20 years and our success exceptional customer service and training techniques, a means great career opportunities for you. Our inspiring work-style driven by a sense of urgency. Proficient in MS work environment & family friendly approach to a balanced Only LA based candidates will be considered. Word, Excel and Retail Software. Applicants must possess work, home and fun lifestyle exists in harmony with the excellent communication skills. mountain backdrop just outside our window. Check us out! Please submit resume with salary requirement to: You’ll fall in love with the people, the product & the view. Vice President, Human Resources PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER Loro Piana 711 Fifth Avenue Minimum 7 - 10 years experience in computer based and Merchandise Planner / Boulder CO New York, N.Y. 10022 manual pattern making. Complete understanding of drafting, This exciting new position works with our retail store division [email protected] fit, balance and garment construction for wovens and knits. developing and maintaining an open to buy plan for our ex- In depth knowledge of fabric and trim performance issues panding retail business. This position requires 5+ years of related to multiple classifications, washes and finishes. merchandise planning and forecasting, preferably in appa- Excellent organizational, management and leadership skills. rel. Working with our team of buyers, this strategic position TECHNICAL DESIGNER will oversee the integrity of the pricing, OTB and SKU database. This position requires a team approach and superior Responsible for final garment appearance, oversee all communication skills to ensure success for our stores. pre-production fittings/specs and revisions of sample packages. Reviews boards/sketches for construction, costing, design and STUDIO M.T.L.A INC. execute accurate interpretations of design, fabric and trim. District Manager / Boulder CO WE WANT THE BEST! Communicates with vendors accuracy of design execution. Preferably based in Boulder, this position will oversee operations Qualifications: Requires 5 years experience; understanding for 6+ retail stores located from Colorado to California! PATTERNMAKERS (1st thru production) of patternmaking and garment construction a plus. Must This position requires 2+ years of multi unit supervision Immediate openings for highly skilled Patternmakers in better contemporary have the ability to read and write spec sheets along with experience, POS and retail store operation experience along divisions. Must have a creative eye for fashion and be able to work with a with a successful track record of team motivation & coaching, wide range of fabrications in complete knowledge of construction and fit providing specific detailed instructions is essential. Proficient all to ensure a superior shopping experience for our valued expert. May be able to work in a fast paced environment. Minimum 10+ in MS Word, Excel and Production software. customers. Outstanding communication and follow up skills Extensive travel is required. years experience. Pad system a plus. Excellent compensation and benefits package available. DESIGNER Please Email: [email protected] Unique opportunity for a talented, creative, fashion professional offering fashion forward designs for trendsetters. Must be experienced working in Please e-mail resume with salary history to or Fax 303 417 0241 [email protected] young contemporary knits and woven tops market, all aspects of design that includes dying and washing techniques, conceptual development and execution of contemporary graphic tee, trim, design creation. Must have 5+ years experience. Please fax resume and salary history to: (213) 239-0649, Attn. Rosa or Email: [email protected] - All positions are Los Angeles Based - 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006

SENIOR ACCESSORIES DESIGNER Jewelry Roxy is looking for a Sr. Accessories Designer. This position is located at the corporate headquarters, in Huntington Retail Sales Is looking for a: Beach, CA. Must have 5 plus years experience in Accessories in the Junior or Better market. Must have Illustrator/CAD Technical Designer experience, graphic background is a plus. Only experienced Seeking full-time and part-time sales associates for 5 + years experience candidates please. high-end Jewelry Retailer located on Melrose Place. Email resume to: Must be punctual, organized, energetic, and dedicated Please email your resume to: [email protected] for consideration. with at least 3-5 years experience in luxury Retail [email protected] or fax to: 323-692-0493 Sales. Strong Customer Service skills and weekend SPLIT DESIGNER availability a must. Jewelry sales exp. a plus. OC based Split is looking for a Head Designer for its Junior Email: [email protected] sportswear division. Successful applicant will have minimum Fax: 323-782-3871 5 years direct experience in Junior design and the ability to Production Manager/Buyer spot and interpret fashion trends for the Split customer. Expe- Kenpo is seeking a seasoned Production Manager/Buyer, rience directing and managing a staff is a plus. Knowledge with experience in outerwear, fleece, knits, wovens and walk of Illustrator & Photoshop is a must. This is a great opportunity Road Sales shorts. Responsibilities include strong negotiation ability with for the right candidate. Come and be a part of the Split team!! Representative suppliers, technical design, buying and strong analytical Email resumes to Judy: [email protected] For Established High skills. Position is based in downtown Los Angeles, and candidate End Modern Lifestyle must be able to travel. Salary is negotiable, based upon Brand. Will cover West experience, as well as benefits. Coast exclusively. Must Email: [email protected] have professional de- meanor, excellent follow up skills and 2-3 years experience. Draw against commission. Please call: 206-244-0500 206-612-0155

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Designer Assoc. to 50-65K. Midtown BRADFORD GROUP women’s knits sleepwear. Follow-up, Trim, PRODUCTIONS Oversee Smplmkr, Trend Shopping, Tech Full service shop to the trade. New York’s Premier Pkgs, Illustrator. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Fashion Recruiters! No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Designer / Childrens FOR SALE Patterns/Samples/Production Accounting Manager •Sr. Product Manager (Watches) $80k Must have Layette, Newborn, Infant Call CLOTHES-OUT: 30 Eastman straight knives; blue streak Mens Sportswear Co seeks highly •Acct. Executive – Contemporary $ 75k+ (937) 898-2975 Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms and Toddler exp. NY Location. 15 Eastman SK round wheel organized, exp’d individual. Duties •Showroom Sales Assist. w/EDI $ 50-60K Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 Call: 973-589-6116 Any Style - Full Service include reconc., factor and bank state- •Tech Design $70-90K Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 ments, A/R, A/P, C/B and dispute reso- •Graphic Design - Men/Women $ 60-80K lution. Advanced Excel a must. Email •District Manager $60K Designer-Full Collection $90-100K Swatch Master Sample Cutter resume/sal req: [email protected] •Boutique Manager $50K+ Knits/Woven/Sweaters 21” x 42” Table; 21” Blade; 21”x 21” Base •Dept. Mgrs. - Men/Women $30K Hang w/ Chicos & Liz Claiborne Only $2,500; Original cost was $15,000. •Jewelry Account Execs $45-65K Designer-Lg Size $60-$90K Good Condition; Call Steve: 973-670-1314 Account Recieveable 38-40K •Tech Designer - cut/sew, sweaters $ 75K Illus/Photo Mod Contemp Mkt JOBBER/EXPORTER min 2-3 years posting payments etc. •Asst. Tech Designer -knits/wovens $ 60K We buy better goods. All categories, Colorist $50-$60K Strong experience on Excel. Mid-town Co. •Buyer – Women’s Apparel $50-60K Light Box, Lab Dips, Color Comments including fabrics. Immediate $$. Call 973. 564. 9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Please call 212-279-1902 E-mail resumes to: Designer -Sweaters $60K [email protected] Cut & Sew Knits Create Flat Sketch & IGRAFX Admin Asst to 55K. Asst President [email protected] 212-947-3400 Midtown Co. w/ all follow-up client & BUYER (LABEL) customers. Organize day, fast paced. Designer to 100K CHINA / TAIWAN SWEATER/ Call 973-564-9236 JARAL FASHION AGCY Private label company seeks experienced label buyer. Must buy all Current experience in Junior full fashion KNITWEAR PRODUCTION hangtags and label trim. Must be sweaters. Midtown Company All kind of flat bed machine, hand Admin Since 1967 detail oriented, computer literate and Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agency knitting, Crochet Sweaters/Knitwears free have exceptional follow up skills. sample service & small orders are welcome. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Fax resume to 212-947-1246 Designer to 120K Current exp in missy Please fax: 011-8862-2362-7992 daywear dresses. Must hang w/ Robie E-mail: [email protected] APPAREL STAFFING Bee, Studio One, Danny & Nicole, Dorby DESIGN * SALES * MERCH CAD/Technical Designers Group, etc. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Intimate Apparel Established 37 years. NYC based Inti- Design mate Apparel Co. seeks both CAD and Mens/Young Mens Designers ALLOCATOR...... 55-65K TECHNICAL designers 2-3 yrs exp Order allocation, EDI, Routing guides min. Knowledge of Illustrator a MUST Mens Wovens Designer - 80K+ SEEKING U.S. MFR Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 for CAD designers (KaledoStyle a +). Yng Mens Knits Designer - 80K+ [email protected] Should be detail oriented and work Yng Mens Asst Wovens Designer - 35K For women’s and children’s suits and www.srisearch.com well in a fast paced, highly creative de- dresses. Call Megan 563-503-3345 / sign room. Generous benefits, great [email protected] E-Mail: [email protected] pay, fun people and an exciting place KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS ANALYST ...... TO 70K to work and grow in your field. Look- 1407 BROADWAY Sales/Inventory Analysis ing for TEAM players! Please email or SHOWROOMS/OFFICES Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Fax resume: 212-683-7619 TREBOR MGMT [email protected] [email protected] Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 www.srisearch.com 14th-40th St. Showroom-Hot Lofts 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 9000 ALLSTAR TRUCKING & WHSE Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 718-945-3500 DESIGN ASSISTANT search- www.manhattanoffices.com Garment Center Specialist. Dist to Established JR, Missy, and Plus consol- Import p/u port Newark. JFK importer seeks help-rough sketching, Search For Space In Garment Center a/p -US Customs Bonded Whse Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee technical knowledge of spec measure- www.midcomre.com APPAREL JOBS ments, CAD preferably Photoshop. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Technical Design Coord to $45K Fax resume to 212-447-6851 PATTERN/SAMPLES Understand patterns/sewing, flat Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast sketch, run fit meetings, liaison w/ Designer $125-150K Min 5-7 yrs exp in work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 overseas, Excel/Email. Jr. blouses, Jr. skirts, Jr. dresses. Must FASHION RESUMES Technical Production Assoc to $50K hang w/ Fang, Eyeshadow, Speechless, Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail Understand sewing/construction, handle My Michelle, Passport, Sweetpea, Sugarlips, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates approvals, liaison between Co. and etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant GILBERT CAREER RESUMES private label customers. PRODUCTIONS (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Private Label Sales Exec $$$open Designer 70-80K current exp in Jr. C/S Beautifully Renovated, light, window All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. knit tops. Must hang w/ Unique, offices. 511- 4141 sq ft fashionresumes.com Men’s apparel for mid-tier/mass Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Email resume to [email protected] Anxiety, Golden Touch, Cherry Stixs. Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 21

Merchandising Executive Director of Ann Taylor is a premier American Apparel Leasing specialty apparel retailer for the Technical Designer Americas Mart, the world’s largest professional woman. Over the Company’s NY-based Women’s Apparel Im- Trade Mart/Tradeshow Organization, is fifty year heritage we have become a porter seeks a person who can seeking a highly energetic, passionate well-known resource for quality suits, sketch tops, pants, skirts, jackets and experienced Director of Apparel separates, dresses, shoes and accessories Leasing to join its Atlanta based with a feminine, polished approach to and dresses, issue initial size organization. The successful candidate updated classic style. The Company spec’s, measure garments, issue will be responsible for new leasing, meets the needs of modern women’s fit comments /updates, communi- renewal leasing & customer relations busy lifestyles by providing a full management for Ladies Apparel fash- range of career, casual and occasion cate with overseas factories and ion industries. Responsibilities to offerings in one location. Our dedication good understanding of pattern- include developing sales leads for new to helping her be at her best has led to making and garment construction. leases, assisting with educating and an exceptional level of enduring client promoting the apparel industry for loyalty. [email protected] AMC management and staff and repre- 201-867-6250 senting AMC as the industry leader/ We currently have opportunities in expert to external business contacts. Merchandising for: Experience in budget management, sales, and promotions of trade shows, Merchandising VP negotiations of contracts and strategic (LOFT) PRODUCTION planning is required. Extensive experience in the Women’s Apparel industry ASSOCIATE is preferred. Please send cover letter, Merchandise Manager NJ based public company, (Bergen resume and salary requirements to: (AT Factory Store) County), specializing in private label [email protected] production from Asia, is seeking a Merchandisers highly skilled associate with 3-5 years (AT, LOFT & Factory) experience. Graphic Artist Candidate must be meticulous with Leading Children’s Apparel Manu- Associate & Assistant details when placing orders overseas. facturer seeks a individual to develop art for Infant/ Toddler Boys Merchandisers Excellent organizational and follow up line. Minimum of 3 years experi- (Non-Apparel) skills mandatory as individual will also ence. Proficiency in Photoshop & be responsible for maintaining produc- Illustrator a must. Interested candidates can apply to the tion reports and tracking production Please email resume to: specific position via from inception to delivery. [email protected] or www.anntaylorcareers.com Importing background helpful, as well [email protected] Ann Taylor is an equal opportunity employer. as, being well versed in both Excel and Word. Graphic Artist to 65K Current exp in Fax resume to 201-868-6525 Generic girls graphic. Midtown sleepwear Co. MAC exp. Full time perm position. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. PRODUCTION ASST. Hardworking, organized self-starter w/ good communication & number skills. HEAD DESIGNER Follow up shipping & expediting the Contemporary women’s wear company production process. Computer literate. seeks Head Designer. Must be experi- Fashion Avenue Knits/Its Our Time enced in better/contemporary sports- 225 W37th Street wear market. Proficient in Illustrator Email resume w/salary requirement’s and Photoshop with knowledge of pro- [email protected] duction who is able to run design Planners 50-100K room. This position is for a MAJOR Account Ex. Collections 60-80K CELEBRITY BRAND. Must be dynam- Designers & Assts. (Kids) 30-80K Production/Asst. to Pres. ic and have a high energy level with a Executive Assts. (3) 30-60K keen ability to predict incoming trends Many other oppty’s TEMP & PERM Menswear Importer seeks exp’d. Prod’n. in designer and contemporary mar- Fax: 212-986-7708 Coordinator for daily customer/factory kets. Must be aware of retail environ- Email: [email protected] communication, follow-up, trim/fabric ment and competition. ordering, record keeping, and general Fax resume (212)239-2766 assistance.Must be organized and able to multi-task. Excel & language skills important. Fax resume: 212-768-7524 Import/Prod’n (Bag/Belt) Production Assistant Have exp consolidating & costing goods Color Submittals from vendors, dealing with freight for- Production Coordinator Well established apparel mfr & importer Seeking individual to handle Wm color warders & importing goods in cheapest seeks an experienced individual to do manner. Also track shipments and approvals and sample tracking from color approvals on woven and knits overseas. Wal-mart experience a big deal w/ Chinese vendors. Must be pro- using the Data Color spectrometer. Lab active, organized & team player. Great plus. Knowledge of WM color systems dips and shade bands to be submitted preferred. Individual must be detail computer skills. Mandarin a plus. to Wal-Mart electronically. Must be E-mail resume: [email protected] oriented and organized. Please fax organized and prepared to work in this resume to 212-239-2766. fast paced environment. Computer IMPORT/ experience and knowledge of the Data Color equipment is helpful. Good starting Production/Fabric salary and benefits. Fax resume to: PRODUCTION Mark Rubin at 212-444-6019 Tracking Coordinator Major Childrenswear company seeks ASSOCIATE individual to track fabric and produc- NJ based public company, (Bergen tion from inception to finish. Must County), specializing in private label have knowledge of fabric construc - production from Asia, is seeking a Production Assistant tion and testing. Must be detailed ori- highly skilled associate with 3-5 years Est’d major Women’s Outerwear Mfr. ented and knowledgeable regarding experience. seeks entry level assistant w/min. 1 yr. the entire production process in fac- exp. Will assist prod coordinator in all tory. Position involves some travel. Candidate must be meticulous with Excellent salary and benefits. details when placing orders overseas. aspects. Respons include tracking fit samples, create / organize tech pkgs, fit Fax resume to (212) 239-2766. Excellent organizational and follow up comments, etc. Comp. skills essential. skills mandatory as individual will also Sal mid 20’s. Excellent oppty for growth. be responsible for maintaining production Please fax or email resume Attn. Michael: Quality Control reports and tracking production from F: 212-302-7041 E: [email protected] inception to delivery. NYC AREA Importing background helpful, as well Respond to: [email protected] as, being well versed in both Excel and Word. Retail Candidate must be fluent in both English Production Assistant New Store Opening!! and Mandarin Chinese. Must be detailed, organized, computer Email resume to: skills a must. Multi task, track smpls/ Need Assistant Manager [email protected] fits. Good communication skills-verbal/ written. Handle pressure & deadlines. High End Experience a MUST * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * Email resume to: Upscale Men’s & Women’s Store *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men [email protected] 40K + Comm + Med/Dental Benefits *CAD Designer---Entry Level *Designer -Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr-Missy E-Mail: [email protected] *Designer Assistant-Illustrator--1-2 yrs Exp KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS *Production Assistants & Coordinators $HI *Production Coordinators--To 65K *Production Coords - bilingual Chinese $ HI Production Assistant/ Retail Sales Analyst *Production Mgr-Jr.Denim-Speak Chinese Apparel company seeks individual *Q.C. Inspector-NJ-C/S Knits-must have car Production Coordinator with knowledge of apparel business *Technical Designers & Assistants $HI Major Men’s Sportswear Co. seeks some- and high volume accounts. Excellent *Technical Designers - Childrens - All Sizes one with 1-2 years industry experience in communication and Excel skills required. *Technical Designers Sweaters & C/S Knits overseas production to work w/Production Walmart/RetailLink exp. a must. Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) Manager on all issues. Must be computer Please fax resume to (212) 239-2766. literate and detail oriented. Bilingual Merchandiser to $125K current exp in English/Chinese req’d. Please Fax/E-mail Sales Asst to 35K Min 1 yr exp assisting product devel. in better to bridge required. resumes attn: MENS PRODUCTION in Showroom. Follow-up on accounts, Midtown well-known branded name. 212-967-8180 / [email protected] orders, samples. Sales personality a Call 973-564-9236 AGCY must. Call 973-564-9236 JARAL AGENCY 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 WWD.COM

Lepore’s new store on Westbourne Lepore Lands in Notting Hill Grove in London. LONDON — Nanette Lepore has opened her first European unit on London’s hip Westbourne Grove, next door to Nicole Farhi’s 202, and across the street from jeweler Solange Azagury-Partridge and innerwear store Agent Provocateur. “London is huge for me. It’s such an important market and center of commerce,” said Lepore. “I have a real passion for this city, and I really want London customers to love this store.” The store resembles Lepore’s U.S. units, which have been designed by her uncle, Raymond Lepore. The designer said it took her about 18 months to fi nd the ideal venue. The store is housed in a former Italian restaurant, and spans 2,200 square feet over three levels. Lepore is working from a solid base: She already Nanette has a showroom in London that wholesales to accounts Lepore such as Fenwick’s, Question Air, Mimi and Anna in London, Hero in Cambridge and The Square in Bath. The Westbourne Grove store stocks the designer’s full collection, including her new footwear line and latest fragrance, Shanghai Butterfl y. She is also stocking jewelry by Erickson Beamon and David Aubrey and handbags by Ipanema. The store has light pink oak fl oors — “The color is a secret formula, and everyone asks about it,” she said — and vintage Italian light fi xtures plucked from fl ea $1.82 million. All fi gures have been converted at the current exchange rate. markets or eBay. Lepore, who plans to have an opening party in October, has said foreign markets Mirrors with whitewashed frames line the walls, still make up a tiny percentage of her sales. “But there’s a lot of potential here.” and on the ground fl oor, a custom-made, “Gone With The designer has stores in New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Boston and Tokyo. the Wind”-like sweeping staircase transports custom- Next up is a unit in Oyster Bay, N.Y., in 2007, with plans for stores in Hawaii, Chicago ers to the mezzanine. The fi rst-year sales projection is and Washington, D.C. 800,000 pounds to 1 million pounds, or $1.5 million to — Samantha Conti

EVIE KREISLER National Sales Manager of Specialty / Department Store Account & ASSOCIATES Leading home textile importer based in Edison, NJ is seeking SOURCING SPECIALIST a well qualified/seasoned professional with proven ability, The Intimate Apparel division of Warnaco has an excellent strong organizational, communication & leadership skills. opportunity for a production or sourcing coordinator ready to Must be goal oriented. A plus, if you already possess key further their career as a Sourcing Specialist. account relationships. Must thrive in an entrepreneurial environment and must be product / fashion oriented w/ an under- Responsibilities include: standing of the development process & product merchandis- • Implementation and maintenance of logistics for programs ing. Must be willing to travel. Must have 3-5 years sales in the clubs and mass market as well as for private label management exp within the home decor or apparel industry. • Create and distribute sourcing packages established 1978 • Conduct final negotiations Send resume to: [email protected] • Develop and ensure adherence to time and action calen- EXECUTIVE dars with design and contractors. SEARCH SALES EXECS • Monitor fabric order and color minimums and track 30-40% TRAVEL liabilities Atlanta 404-262-0599 * BETTER COLLECTION Men/Women, Specialty Stores To $85K • Coordinate weekly production meetings Chicago 312-251-0077 * MENS ATHLETIC COLLECTION • Work with overseas sourcing team, contractors and domes Los Angeles 213-622-8994 Dept & Specialty Stores To $85K tic planning team to ensure timely deliveries from factory New York 212-279-8999 * JUNIOR HANDBAGS Open $$$ * JR DENIM Moderate-Better Open $$$ STORE MANAGER to Distribution Center www.kreisler-associates.com * Trim Sales for Global Co. $60K+ All Must Have Current Contacts Men’s luxury brand seeks Store To qualify for the position applicants must have: Call Laurie 212-947-3399 Manager in Manhattan. Must Tech Designer 85-100K Current exp or e-mail [email protected] have outstanding leadership, • 3+ years of work experience in production coordination or in kids or womens w/ strong Wal-Mart KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Standard’s knowledge. Midtown organization and customer sourcing coordination kidswear co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Sales Pro - NY service skills. Prior Retail exp. • Attention to detail, proven ability to prioritize and maintain Seasoned Sales Pro for our active New required, men’s clothing exp. organization of multiple projects as well as proven ability York office and showroom. Superb TECHNICAL DESIGNER opportunity. Salary commensurate w/ a +. We offer competitive to follow through to achieve required results experience. Fax resume to 213-748- compensation + full benefits. • Demonstrated ability to anticipate and resolve problems, ASSISTANT 5389 or E-mail: [email protected] Designer clothing label seeks creative Send resume & motivation flexibility and ability to be open to new ideas indiv w/ an extensive tech background STYLECAREERS.COM • Excellent verbal and written communication skills (min 3 yrs exp). Must have knowl of Account Exec-Urban Mens letter via fax to: • In-depth knowledge/use of ACS,WEB PDM,Excel and garment construction for knits and Sales Asst-Childrenswear 212-223 9130 wovens. Other responsibilities: coord VP of Sales-Wms Bridge Outlook design room sourcing trims/fabric, Sales Coordinator-Footwear • Experience in Intimate Apparel production and/or sourcing costing, historic fashion research. Account Executive Acct Executive-Handbags preferred Illustrator & Photoshop required. Sales Mgr-Home Fashions E-mail: [email protected] High end fashion jewelry company • Associates degree is also preferred seeks individual who is dedicated and Dir of Sales- Menswear professional to handle existing accounts. Sales Rep-Mult Positions Person must also demonstrate skills to Sales Director-Asia Email resume: [email protected] or Technical Designers $50-90K [email protected] Lots of Great Opportunities! generate new accounts and merchan- Fax to: (212) 287-8257. [email protected] dising. Some travel required. Mid Manhattan location. Medical benefits. THORN Warnaco offers competitive compensation with benefits Salary open. Start immediately. Growing high end contemp. collection Technical Designer to 65K current exp in Please fax resume (212) 582-0150 & denim, selling better specialty stores, package and is an equal opportunity employer. M/F/V/D JR or girls woven bottoms, skirts, jeans, looking for self motivated, dynamic, casual sptswr. Specing, measuring, send assertive & strong seller w/ 2-3 yrs. packages to Far East. Call 973-564-9236. Admin Asst - Swimwear exp. Must have proven track record w/ spec. stores/major accts. NY based & Sales key acct exec $125-150K+commish. Spec Tech Fast paced company seeks a detail Children’s co, computer exp Textile oriented, energetic, extremely organ- travel req’d. Competitive pkg. Fax 443- Current exp in JR bottoms nec. This 247-2350 or [email protected] large Co. has the established store clients a must. NY Location LOOKING FOR AN ized individual w/ good communication presently. Potential $250-300K. Must Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 skills. Must be proficient in Excel. hang with Mudd, L.E.I., Jones, Liz etc. EXCITING OPPORTUNITY? E-mail Resume to [email protected] Garden Botanika is looking for exp’d. Call 973-564-9236 Agncy. Sweater/Knit TD $60-$85K Manager Textile Color & Quality or Fax: 212-764-8860 attn: Jackie Beauty Reps in the NY Metropolitan [email protected] 212-947-3400 A Manhattan based children’s apparel area (NY, NJ & CT) as well as the Greater company seeks a Manager of Textile L.A. & San Francisco, CA markets. Sample/Prod’n Coord. Color and Quality. Resp for coordination HIGH END APPAREL For NY Metro contact: (212) 532-8777 Looking for an articulate, organized, of all fabric. Will evaluate and approve TOCCA, a women’s high-end contem- For Greater LA contact: (314) 615-2006 self-starter to handle domestic devel- TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s color (woven and knit) using light box porary apparel wholesaler, seeks exp’d opment & production for better wom- *TD-Woven’s/Knits-Designer Mkt $70K and spectrophotometer and work Sr Account Exec with strong relation- en’s wears. Must multi-task under time *TD-Large Sizes-Designer Mkt $90K closely with design team to develop ships w/ top Department & Specialty pressure and thoroughly follow-up. *TD-Runway Dsgnr-Full Collection $85-90K color direction and communicate to stores & good merchandising skills. E-mail resume w/ salary requirements *Bi-Lingual Chinese-Sprtswr $80K the mills. Submit resume and salary Good communication skills, ability to to: [email protected]. *Spec Tech $50K requirements in confidence to: grow acct base & significant US travel Perlina Handbag Co. seeks highly ag- *Spec Tech-Retail Link Wal-Mart $40-$45 K [email protected] req’d. European language skills + gressive, exp’d Independent Sales Reps [email protected] 212-947-3400 www.kahnlucas.com accessories exp a plus. Great package. w/ proven Dept, Boutique & Specialty SEWER Email resume [email protected] store handbag and small leather Major apparel company seeks two full- goods sales for the following territories: Teacher / Fashion Traffic Coord to $45K. Current exp in SALES...... 60-80K BASE + West Coast, North East, Mid-Atlantic, time sewers for design studio. Must have Fashion School seeks exp’d teacher for follow-up of shipments, e-mails overseas, some experience in children’s wear Exp w/ JCP, Kohl’s Mass Merchants Florida, Canada, Europe & Caribbean. Word; Excel; Macintosh; Emb; Tech. sending docs for customs clearances. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Fax: (212) 563-3043 / E-mail: and/or ladies’ wear. Complete benefits. Pac; Web Design. AAS a must. Email AS400 nec. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Please call (212) 629-9600. [email protected] [email protected] resume: [email protected] www.srisearch.com WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 23