DOHA ROUND IN CRISIS/2 BALENCIAGA’S SPACE ODYSSEY/8-9 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 5, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear Got Klimt? NEW YORK — New York continues to welcome legions of immigrants, including those of the high-profi le variety. Among the newest: Adele Bloch-Bauer, as painted by Gustav Klimt. Her $135 million passage footed by Ronald S. Lauder, the glamorous import is scheduled to take up permanent residence at the Neue Galerie on July 13. Over the years, Klimt has provided heady inspiration for fashion designers, including Castle Starr design director Sharon Lombardo, whose embroidered silk organza dress for holiday is an homage to the painter. For more Klimt-o-mania, see pages 4 and 5. Minor Becomes Major: Brands Speed Growth Of Secondary Lines By Miles Socha TYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT TYLED BY PARIS — Fashion’s biggest names no longer are having second thoughts about their second lines. In a flurry of activity not seen since TZ/KRAMER + KRAMER; S + KRAMER; TZ/KRAMER the “diffusion” heydays of the Eighties, a spate of new European second lines are arriving on the market, while established brands are being given a fresh spin and higher profiles with tactics such as HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SUZANNE KA HAIR AND MAKEUP BY attention-getting runway shows. All the activity suggests designer firms, recently focused on ultraexpensive, exclusive products in a booming luxury climate, are now keen to tap into aspirational customers, as well. See Brands, Page 7 YN CONNOR/ONE; GEORGINA GOODMAN SHOES; PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: ROB PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 5, 2006 WWD.COM Lamy Set to Deal With Doha Crisis WWDWEDNESDAY By John Zarocostas Promotion Authority expires in said Frank Vargo, vice presi- Sportswear July 2007. The Trade Promotion dent for international eco- GENEVA — Pascal Lamy, direc- Authority enables trade bills to nomic affairs with the National tor general of the World Trade be submitted for approval with- Association of Manufacturers. GENERAL Organization, kicks off a month out amendment. U.S. textile producers are In a fl urry of activity not seen since the diffusion heyday of the early of “shuttle” diplomacy, meet- “I think it can be done, but no pushing for special treatment 1 Nineties, a spate of European second lines are arriving on the market. ing Japan’s Prime Minister, doubt it’s becoming increasingly for apparel and textiles in an Pascal Lamy kicks off a month of “shuttle” diplomacy today to try to get Junichiro Koizumi, in Tokyo diffi cult,” said Celso Amorim, effort to protect domestic fi rms the Doha trade liberalization talks back on track. today to try to get the Doha Brazil’s foreign minister. “But and their customers in the 2 trade liberalization talks back now that we are in a crisis, we Western Hemisphere. Furla has signed a three-year agreement with Japanese watchmaker on track. have to fi nd a way to solve it.” At the same time, senior 2 Citizen to roll out a full line of watches. That should be just the fi rst U.S. Trade Representative Asian officials indicated they FASHION: Fashion and art often make for easy bedfellows, and nowhere stop for Lamy, as the negotiations Susan Schwab, in a joint state- expect any future deal lowering is that truer than with artist Gustav Klimt and the designer set. drifted into a new crisis Saturday ment Saturday with Agriculture duties on industrial goods to cut 4 after trade ministers from over Secretary Mike Johanns, said, deep into high and peak tariffs TECH: Speed to market, serving the customer and smooth systems 60 countries — including the “We remain fully committed for products such as textiles 10 transitions were main themes at the WWD Technology Forum. U.S., European Union, Japan, to an ambitious, robust round and apparel. Indonesia’s trade With talks under way for a U.S.-South Korea FTA, business leaders and Brazil, India, and Australia — that opens new markets for the minister Mari Pangestu, for one, offi cials discussed the virtues of investing in the Asian country. could not come up with a basic world’s farmers, manufacturers said in an interview that weak 16 agreement on how to cut subsi- and service providers.” cuts in textile and apparel tar- WEST: The Mix, a fashion emporium housing some 25 small boutiques, dies and tariffs for agricultural Agriculture remains the iffs “are not welcome.” 18 is to open in February near downtown Scottsdale, Ariz. and industrial goods. primary sticking point for the “We want tariff escalation A visibly agitated Lamy ad- round as a whole, but there is and tariff peaks to be taken care mitted to reporters at WTO head- still a wide gulf between the of and high barriers disman- EYE quarters Saturday that the Doha positions of rich nations and de- tled,” Pangestu declared. The fi rst Balenciaga retrospective in Paris opened on Tuesday, showcasing talks were “on the brink of fail- veloping countries on lowering Equally vocal on the sidelines 8 dramatic sculptural shapes and surprisingly vivid colors. ure” and indicated he plans to tariffs for industrial goods. of the ministerial talks were “crack heads together” to move The U.S. and the EU, backed poor African countries such as Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................19-23 the round forward. Lamy has to by Japan, leaned hard on Benin and Zambia. Benin was To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. try to narrow the gaps in negoti- emerging countries such as adamant that it intends to keep ations on agricultural and indus- Brazil and India to come for- cotton issues front and center in [email protected], using the individual’s name. trial goods by the end of July to ward with more ambitious of- the talks. Zambia charged that WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. pave the way for a package deal fers in industrial goods but rich countries had not followed VOLUME 192, NO. 1. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- to be brokered and the round to failed to secure any movement. up with concrete proposals to ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- be completed by the end of the “While a successful Doha deal fulfi ll an earlier offer of duty ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers year. 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