WALKING MODERN THE WALK MILLY TERESA PALMER AND ANALEIGH MILLY UPDATES TIPTON STAR IN THE ROM-COM ITS IMAGE. ZOMBIE FLICK “WARM BODIES.” PAGE 5 PAGE 9

DOUBLE THE NUMBER Belk Sets Strategy To Expand Flagships

By DAVID MOIN

BELK INC. IS fortifying its fl agships as part of a mas- ter plan to reach $6 billion in sales within fi ve years. Under the new strategy, Belk, which last year gen- erated $3.78 billion in revenues, will invest $140 mil- WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY lion on up to 15 stores to convert them into bona fi de fl agships through enlargements, remodels or pumped- WWD up assortments of “premium” brands, or some combi- nation thereof. In addition, Belk will open two new fl agships, in Dallas and Huntsville, Ala., in 2014. The Dallas store will be the retailer’s fi rst fl agship in Texas. Belk currently has 15 fl agships, meaning that in a COLLECTIONS few years, the 301-unit department store chain could practically double its fl agship count. In the next three years, “we believe we can pick up FALL $75 million in incremental revenues by investing the 2013 $140 million in the locations,” Belk president and chief merchandising offi cer Kathryn Bufano told WWD in an exclusive interview on the fl agship strategy. Retailers like to refer to many of their stores as fl agships, sometimes too loosely. But Belk offi cials say they have clear criteria for the designation. To qualify, Belk offi cials said, the store must be around 160,000 square feet or larger in size, must have a strong enough assortment to convey the company’s new messaging about Southern, modern style and must have a halo effect on other Belk stores within a 50-mile radius. Heavily There are also minimum volume requirements, which Belk executives declined to reveal. They are believed to be a pretty wide range, depending on the size of the store and its geography. “A fl agship really needs to have a fi rst-class premi- um brand assortment,” explained Ralph Pitts, execu- tive vice president over real estate and legal, among Vested his other areas of responsibility. “We are looking at It looks like a coat but it’s not. For some of the stores we have that are large enough to be fl agships but don’t have the full fl agship assortment. his fall (yes, fall) Thakoon Addition SEE PAGE 6 collection, Thakoon Panichgul riffed on “classics reimagined,” delightfully tweaking traditional men’s wear and tailored motifs. Digital’s Data Drive Here, his sturdy vest worked in By RACHEL STRUGATZ shearling and a medley of wools, worn over a matching top and WEB SITES NEED to have more than just a pretty interface. skirt. For more, see WWD.com/ Until now, much of a brand’s or retailer’s digital fashion-news. presence was based on aesthetics and how their digi- tal fl agship or Facebook page looked. But as pressure to see a return on investment mounts, customer data will become a key differentiator between those that succeed and those that don’t. Brands like Kate Spade, Rebecca Minkoff, Tory Burch, Coach, Burberry and Sephora excel in the space because of the attention paid to science as well as art. Now, a slew of solutions and new sites — Fashion GPS, Olapic and Fohr Card among them — are available to help more brands track facts and fi gures. Maureen Mullen, director of research and advi- sory for New York University think tank Luxury Lab, or L2, in December told WWD that the use of data will “make or break” a business in the next fi ve to 10 years, particularly the use of data in a multichannel environment. “You’re going to start seeing titles like ‘data scien- tist’ emerge in organizations, and quickly those peo- ple will become some of the most important in terms of driving customer value,” Mullen said, drawing a comparison to 2010 when the “hottest job” across re- tail and luxury was a social media manager. From a data perspective, she declared that Amazon is the prime example of an e-tailer seam- lessly capturing this information online. (For more on Amazon, see story, page 12.) PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013 Kors Teams With U.N. Hunger Program paign. The watches come in two the Briefing Box By marc karimZadeh sizes, with the smaller one retail- ing for $295 and the larger for in Today’s WWd New York — michael kors is $325. each watch sold will allow putting the fight against world hun- for 100 children to be fed through ger at the core of his philanthropy. the wF P. in addition, kors is The designer is launching an launching a text-to-donate pro- Denim from exclusive, long-term partnership gram to raise further funds. Gsus Sindustries, with the United Nations world kors is also releasing a public which showed at Food Programme, which aims to service announcement, which fea- Bread & Butter help solve the international hun- tures several celebrities, includ- in Berlin. ger crisis with food assistance for ing Bette midler, seth meyers, those in need, especially moth- Patti hansen, kyle macLachlan ers and children. and karolina kurkova. “we wanted to contribute in a The Psa is available on kors’ way that would make a real differ- various social media platforms, ence in people’s lives,” said kors. including destinationkors.com. “Joining forces with the world “over the years, i’ve had the Food Programme enables us to do great fortune of traveling the that. The fact is, hunger is a solv- world and experiencing new able problem and i’m proud that Michael Kors created two watches for cultures and people,” kors said. we can be a part of the solution.” the “Watch Hunger Stop” campaign. “and if there’s one thing i’ve as a cause, feeding the needy learned, it’s that millions of peo- has been dear to kors for a long time. he has been ple all over the world are struggling to feed them- a supporter of God’s Love we deliver, the New selves, and their families, every day. i want to lend Belk Inc. is fortifying its flagships as part of a master plan to York-based nonprofit that delivers daily meals to my voice and my efforts to this international cause.” reach $6 billion in sales within five years. PAGE 1 people with severe illnesses, for more than two de- wFP executive director ertharin cousin added cades and made a $5 million donation to the orga- that by working with the designer, “we will gener- As pressure to see a return on investment mounts, data will nization last october. ate more attention as well as much-needed resourc- while kors’ financial commitment to the U.N. pro- es in support of wFP’s efforts to end world hunger. become a key differentiator between those Web sites that gram was not disclosed, he plans to raise millions our vision of the future is a world where every per- succeed and those that don’t. PAGE 1 through a series of campaigns, events and special son has access to the quality and quantity of food products, including two unisex watches launching required to not only lead a healthy life but to also The names of seven factories that subcontracted work to the this march as part of a “watch hunger stop” cam- reach his or her full human potential.” Smart Export Garment Ltd. factory, where seven garment workers died in a fire over the weekend, have been found. PAGE 3

Hennes & Mauritz has named South Korean designer Minju Kim the winner of its international H&M Design Award. PAGE 3 Rodriguez Tapped as Wool Ambassador Celia Birtwell has teamed with Uniqlo for a capsule clothing rodriguez’s participation is collection that will launch in the U.K. on March 21. PAGE 3 By Lisa Lockwood Narciso part of woolmark’s re-branding Rodriguez efforts in the U.s. market “and Milly has designed a new logo reflecting the line’s more The wooLmark co. has reinforces The woolmark co. as modern and contemporary point of view. PAGE 5 named Narciso rodriguez as am- the world’s best-known textile bassador for merino wool in its fiber brand,” said mccullough. he The revival of Halston is taking a major step forward next No Finer Feeling global market- noted that the New York office has month with the opening of three Halston Heritage stores and at ing campaign. been dormant since the financial least 10 this year. PAGE 6 ads will appear in fashion crisis “and now we’re reestablish- magazines in the fall touting the ing The woolmark co.’s profile versatility of merino wool as a and presence in this very impor- Teresa Palmer and Analeigh Tipton, the female stars of the fiber. rodriguez will include me- tant market. additionally our am- zombie rom-com “Warm Bodies,” sat down for a chat about their rino wool pieces in two upcoming bassadorial partnerships are our friendship and respective careers. PAGE 9 collections and will champion way of reaffirming our commit- the benefits of wool as a luxury ment to the fashion industry.” Condé Nast on Tuesday handed out its annual best-in-class fiber. starting with rodriguez’s mccullough became acquaint- awards to 2012’s best-performing publishing executives. PAGE 9 fall collection, being shown dur- ed with rodriguez when the ing New Yo r k Fashion week designer was one of the judges Nordstrom has tapped Olivia Kim, who most recently was Feb. 12, select pieces will in- of the 2012 U.s. regional event vice president of creative at Opening Ceremony, as director of clude merino wool and carry the of the international woolmark creative projects. PAGE 11 woolmark logo. rodriguez’s am- Prize. “it was there we spent bassadorship will extend through time with him and realized he spring 2014, and the number of would be a perfect ambassador on WWD.CoM garments featuring merino wool for us. his admiration for wool will increase each season. as a fiber and innovative use of it MARKETS: A more tightly edited Bread & Butter market in “i’ve historically used wool as in his collection illustrated to us Berlin garnered generally positive reactions from exhibitors

the core of my collections. This John Aquino that he would be a natural part- and retailers, who seized upon sporadic signs of economic collaboration happened quite ner to help promote the benefits improvement to boost their buying. For more, see page 8 naturally. i’m a true believer in of merino wool to the fashion and WWD.com/markets-news. wool and have been cutting wool photo by industry as well as consumers,” on the bias since i was in school,” endless. They’ve opened their mccullough said. rodriguez told wwd. design library to us. it’s there for For the 2013-14 financial year, CorreCtion stuart mccullough, chief ex- all designers to use, and we for- starting July 1, awi’s marketing Gap inc. officials said the retailer does not source apparel from ecutive officer of australian wool get there are all these great tools budget will increase by 56 per- the Tazreen Fashions Ltd. factory in dhaka, Bangladesh. This innovation, parent company of for us to use,” he said. rodriguez cent to 54 million australian dol- was incorrect in a story on page one, Tuesday. woolmark, said, “Narciso’s in- said he uses wool for all his cat- lars, or $56.6 million at current novative vision and meticulous egories, including shoes, bags, exchange, the result of a vote by To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is focus on craftsmanship make coats and dresses. “There are australian wool growers late last [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. him a perfect partner to demon- so many different types of wool. year to devote more funds to mar- COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. strate the beauty and versatility we use high-twist yarns that have keting over the next three years. VOLUME 205, NO. 20. WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two of merino wool as a fiber.” great natural stretch that we run The priorities are to reestablish additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance mccullough added that consistently,” he noted. the New York and Paris offices Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, woolmark invests in product de- No Finer Feeling is a three- after several years’ hiatus in both Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, velopment and marketing with year, 20 million australian dollar, markets and completing the 2012 and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver those designers selected. The No or $21.1 million, campaign that has international woolmark Prize. Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Finer Feeling ad campaign aims seen awi partner with more than The international woolmark Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. to inform consumers about the 30 designers and brands, includ- Prize final will be staged at Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or natural benefits and attributes ing westwood, Giorgio armani, London’s me hotel on Feb. 16. inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine of merino wool. “influential fash- ermenegildo Zegna, Lanvin, Finalists christian wijnants, is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. ion leaders, including Vivienne alexander wang and marc Jacobs sophie Theallet, dion Lee, You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt westwood, have become ambas- via co-branded media and point- dressedundressed, Ban Xiao Xue of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request sadors for the initiative and me- of-sale campaigns in the U.k., and Pankaj & Nidhi will compete for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at rino — sharing the reasons why europe, china and Japan, or wool for 100,000 australian dollars, or www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that merino wool is their preferred ambassadorships. $105,467, in prize money and the we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at luxury fiber,” mccullough said. mccullough noted that opportunity to have their winning P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED rodriguez noted that rodriguez will be involved with the merino collection sold through ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER woolmark is supporting his com- creative direction of the ad cam- a global retail network that in- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR pany with research and devel- paign and will participate in some cludes Bergdorf Goodman and DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A opment. “Their resources are of awi’s educational programs. harvey Nichols. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w30a002a.indd 1 1/29/13 7:21 PM 01292013192929 WWD WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013 3 WWD.COM

into how a document may have gotten there. We work hard with our manufac- More Makers Linked to Bangladesh Contractor turing partners to make sure that they abide by safety codes so incidents like The factories identified by the su- shocked to discover that unauthorized this are avoided.” By KriSTi elliS pervisor include Mrinmoy Fashion ltd., subcontracting was going on.” however, labor groups provided WWD concord Fashion export, Shintex BD The Bangladesh center for Worker with several documents they said were WAShiNGToN — labor and human ltd., Syntex Knitwear ltd., energy Pac Solidarity and Worker rights consortium found at Smart export after the fire. rights groups working with organizations Fashion ltd., Mhc Apparels ltd. and said they have discovered more labels Among them was a purchase order on M. in Bangladesh and their own staffs on the Mac-Tex industries. and/or apparel at Smart, including the hidary & co. letterhead for units of its ground there said they have found more “There are apparently a lot of these label okay Men, produced by Kik, a men’s swimwear “hawaiian Authentics” labels and turned up the names of seven sweatshops and subcontracting facto- German apparel and nonfood discounter; brand. The purchase order, made in factories that subcontracted work to ries operating in Bangladesh and re- Mim, a French retailer and women’s ap- August last year, listed the order being the Smart export Garment ltd. factory, ceiving work from more established parel and accessories brand, which is a placed with a factory named Fashion where seven garment workers died in a factories, which was the case here,” subsidiary of New look, and Max, a re- Store ltd. it also names the vendor as fire over the weekend. said Barbara Briggs, assistant director tail chain in the Middle east owned by Grace Fashion ltd. The fire, which also injured at least at the Pittsburgh-based institute for landmark Group. Spain’s inditex SA, the owner of the 15 workers, has sparked protests in Global labor and human rights. “The The companies did not respond to an Zara retail chain, said Monday it has Bangladesh and calls for action and question now is are the labels whose inquiry for comment by press time. terminated its relationship with two sup- change by U.S. and international labor production were there going to take any other labels and documents found pliers over suspicions they illegally sub- rights groups. it follows on the heels of responsibility?” and previously reported by labor groups contracted some of their business to the the Tazreen factory fire in late November “retailers know very well that the include Bershka and lefties, owned by Smart factory. A spokesman also denied that claimed the lives of more than 111 demands they place on suppliers can- inditex Group; the Sol’s label owned by having dealings with Smart and said the garment workers in Ashulia, Bangladesh. not be met without subcontracting, but Paris-based Solo invest; the Fox & Scott company has sent a team to Bangladesh The staff of the institute for Global they turn a blind eye,” said Scott Nova, label registered to Sylvain Scemama in to investigate. labor and human rights in Dhaka inter- executive director of the Worker rights Paris, and swimwear brand hawaiian According to a Bangladeshi news re- viewed a supervisor at Smart export, who consortium. “This allows them to take Authentics, produced by New York-based port on Tuesday, State Minister of labor identified seven factories that allegedly advantage of the cheap costs these shady M. hidary & co. inc. and employment Begum Monnujan subcontracted work to Smart export. All subcontract factories offer, at the ex- richard levine, an executive with M. Sufian said the government will inspect seven factories are reportedly members of pense of worker rights and worker safe- hidary & co., said, “We have no associa- at least 500 unlicensed garment factories the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers ty, while maintaining deniability. When tion or production at the Smart export in the next two weeks to check for fire and exporters Association. a disaster occurs, they claim they are factory in Bangladesh. We are looking safety compliance. Uniqlo Joins With Celia Birtwell Minju Kim Awarded H&M’s By SAMANThA coNTi International Design Prize loNDoN — celia Birtwell has designs cent efforts to up its fashion quotient on Uniqlo — bright, graphic designs with By Joelle DiDerich amid a tough economic environment names like romanian, Jacobean, Bird Song, for fast-fashion players. The retailer Dilly Daydream and cherry Pet Spot. PAriS — hennes & Mauritz AB has will stage its first fashion show in The British textile designer, whose bold named South Korean designer Minju eight years on Feb. 27 on the side- prints and floral patterns were a defining Kim the winner of its international lines of Paris Fashion Week, and is feature of Sixties and Seventies london h&M Design Award. developing a new brand fashion, has teamed with Uniqlo for a cap- The 26-year-old, who is called & other Stories. sule clothing collection that will launch in in her final master’s year of “i think we want to the U.K. on March 21, WWD has learned. fashion studies at the royal show another side of The collection includes dresses, T-shirts, Academy of Fine Arts in h&M,” said Johansson. tunic vests and tote bags covered with Antwerp, Belgium, unveiled “We have our basics and Birtwell’s vintage and contemporary prints, her collection Tuesday at we have the fashion col- which have been rescaled and reworked to Stockholm’s Mercedes-Benz lections, but at the same fit the clothing and accessories. Fashion Week. time also we have so many Prices range from 9.90 pounds, or $15.50 She is to receive a cash talented designers and at current exchange, for a tote to 29.90 prize of 50,000 euros, or Minju Kim buyers and patternmakers pounds, or $46.90, for a dress. $67,250 at current exchange, within the company, so it’s Following the U.K. launch in March, and h&M will develop pieces from really fun to be able to make these the plan is to sell the collection in selected the collection to be sold at select collections also and to show their stores globally and online. Uniqlo’s latest h&M stores in early fall. The Swedish skills and their creativity as well.” collaboration follows successful ventures high-street retailer invited students Visitors to the competition’s Web with British fashion labels laura Ashley, from 19 fashion colleges in eight site, designaward2013.hm.com, voted orla Kiely and lulu Guinness. european countries to take part. to award the People’s Prize to Alba “We are very pleased with the success of Kim said Japanese horror manga Prat, who has studied at Universität the other collaborations with British design- Looks by Celia Birtwell. artist Junji ito inspired her collec- der Künste in Berlin. She wins a ers so far. each designer has brought some- tion, titled “Dear My Friend.” one-month internship at Jonathan thing different to our lines of clothing, and Birtwell, who has a thriving business as a “Drawing is the most important Saunders in london. as a result of our collaborations Uniqlo has home textiles designer, said that she opened process of my designing,” she told increased its appeal with customers glob- up her archives — and offered her contem- WWD. “When i research, i visualize ally,” Yuki Katsuta, senior vice president at porary designs — to Uniqlo, allowing them how i would transform it into images Fast retailing Group, and head of Uniqlo to choose what they wanted. “We’ve even ad- and as a next step i turn the images research and Design, commented via e-mail. opted some of the home prints, such as the into my own drawings, and that be- “in our experience, British designers are Jacobean, for the collection,” she said. comes the basis for the collection.” popular worldwide, which has helped us,” She added that working with Uniqlo Despite its dark subject mat- Katsuta added. “i believe that prints origi- was a breeze. “We were all talking from ter, the collection is upbeat, with nated in the U.K. They are part of British the same page — and we made each other outsize proportions and pas- tradition and history, which has a strong laugh. They are a very sympathetic compa- tel colors lending it a cartoon- sensitivity toward gardens, flowers, colors ny and from Day one there were no blips,” like quality. Kim, who is studying and patterns.” she said. under Belgian designer Walter Van he said prints and designs are no dif- Birtwell — who, with her then-husband, Beirendonck, said she looked for- ferent from art: “People love it the instant the late ossie clark, and their cat, was im- ward to working with the h&M de- they see it. So regardless of age, and re- mortalized by David hockney in his 1971 sign team on developing pieces for gardless of country or nationality, people painting “Mr and Mrs clark and Percy” — a larger audience. know what they like when they see art. i added that one of her favorite prints is the “This is something really, really believe our customer comes from a broad cat-and-dog print, known as cherry Pet Spot. new for me because ordinarily, i al- international audience.” Birtwell said she teamed with Uniqlo ways work by myself,” she said. “it’s Katsuta, who declined to give sales pro- because of their “terribly clever, very basic a really big opportunity and i feel re- jections for the collection, said Birtwell has designs and great colors. Yo u can’t misun- ally grateful right now.” international appeal. derstand their clothing, and the atmosphere h&M’s head of design Ann-Sofie “She is able to combine the traditional in Uniqlo shops is very peaceful.” Johansson, who headed the compe- sensitivity toward prints with a contempo- VMPD consulting, run by Vanessa Denza, tition jury, said Kim stood out in a rary, modern and unique twist. it can be in brokered the partnership with Uniqlo on tough field thanks to highly imagi- the combination of colors, or in the particu- behalf of Birtwell. Denza also worked with native pieces that were beautifully lar print design. My key learning from our Birtwell on her sellout collaboration with executed. “For me, it was a ‘wow’ early years of doing prints is that regardless Topshop in 2006. feeling to see the collection. it’s so [of] whether they are the same or not, if they The 11-piece collection for Topshop fea- creative and it’s very playful, and A look are beautiful prints, people will wear them.” tured Birtwell’s delicate, hand-drawn floral there are millions of ideas in each from Kim’s British model Portia Freeman features in prints, whose shapes and names referenced piece,” she said. winning the ad campaign, although no details of the the designer’s Seventies heyday: Mystic The choice of the young, avant- collection. rollout were immediately available. Daisy, Monkey Puzzle and Golden Slumbers. garde designer reflects h&M’s re-

w30a003a;7.indd 3 1/29/13 7:59 PM 01292013195955 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013 Pre-Fall 2013: MixedContemporary Media

MORE IS MORE WHEN IT COMES TO FABRICS AND MATERIALS FOR PRE-FALL. CONTEMPORARY DESIGNERS CHOSE CONTRASTING ONES, MIXING THEM UP FOR A LOOK THAT’S GRAPHIC AND MODERN. — KIM FRIDAY

Robert

Rodriguez’s leather jacket with cotton, Elizabeth and viscose and James’ polyester elastane jacquard vest; sleeves; GEORGE CHINSEE silk polyester silk top and top; cotton, polyester, leather pants. PHOTO BY acetate and Timo acrylic skirt, Weiland’s with polyester Cut25 acetate and acetate by Yigal and viscose pants. Azrouël’s jacquard rayon, pantsuit nylon and with leather spandex trim and ponte silk and dress with polyester leather blouse. shoulders.

A.L.C.’s cotton and polyamide dress with a cotton mesh panel. Sachin + Babi’s cotton twill and lambskin leather jacket and pants over a silk top. WWD wednesday, january 30, 2013 5 WWD.COM

McQ alexander McQueen’s wool thoroughlY Modern MillY and rachel leather comey’s the fall collection. The real fash- toms and knitwear and will be By Lisa Lockwood coat. polyester, ion customer buys the special supported by national advertis- viscose items early in the season, such as ing from Banana Republic. and NEw YoRk — Milly’s new logo leathers, furs and even some im- it’s been a busy time for spandex is now as modern and contem- portant coats. The fashion girls Milly, as the company expands dress. porary as its collection. want to snap them up early.” on several fronts. The firm Beginning with the pre-fall Hinting at fall, which she’ll show opened its first freestanding collection that hits stores at the Feb. 13 during New York Fashion boutique on Madison avenue in end of June, Milly has designed week, she said leather is going 2011, and the three-year plan is a new logo that will appear on to be important. she’s using a to open seven to 10 new stores, hangtags, hangers, shopping bags, French stretch leather that is said oshrin. “This year will be store awnings and shop-in-shops soft, buttery and lightweight. a bigger investment in our e- reflecting the line’s more modern “it’s technological and really commerce business,” he said. and contemporary point of view. luxurious, and we’re using it in Business on millyny.com pres- “we wanted it to be clean, snug pencil skirts, tight legging ently rivals that of the Madison modern and architectural,” said pants, paneling on dresses and avenue store in terms of vol- Michelle smith, co-owner and trims on leather coats; it’s also ume, he said. its key whole- designer of the company. “it’s an on little bows,” she added. sale accounts are Bergdorf abstract interpretation of an M. “i wanted the collection to Goodman, Neiman Marcus, There’s a beauty and femininity still be feminine. i don’t want to saks Fifth avenue, Nordstorm, in the mark. it’s clean, modern deny who i am and what i love, Harrods and Bloomingdale’s. and timeless.” Pentagram de- but i wanted the collection to The company tends to de- velop new categories in-house andrew oshrin and and has cultivated several suc- Michelle smith cessful businesses, namely swimwear, handbags, girls’ ap- parel and tech accessories. Milly Minis, the girls’ wear line, is carried in such stores as Barneys New York, Bergdorf ’s and Harrods. There are still sev- eral categories that it would like to explore, such as footwear, fra- grance, eyewear and home. But as it’s a privately owned compa- ny, the couple is in no rush, and the timing and product have to be right for the brand. overseas expansion is one of the company’s priorities. The brand, which produces all its wo- vens in New York city, currently ships to 250 countries. in part- cut25 nership with Remza, Milly will

by Yigal HINSEE open three freestanding azrouël’s C stores, in Qatar, kuwait rayon, and dubai. Milly has a EORGE nylon and G flagship in Tokyo with BY spandex itochu and has four ponte or five shops-in-shop PHOTO dress with in Japan. smith and leather signed the new logo, which was oshrin plan to go to shoulders. inspired by smith’s designs. Tokyo in March for “The label is the filter to the a big Milly party. brand. it’s the window to your brand and how it’s perceived. Milly’s nylon The previous logo was too retro. and mesh we’ve evolved beyond that,” said top and smith, who founded the company leather pants with her husband, chief executive for pre-fall. officer andrew oshrin, in 2000. have a certain bite to smith and oshrin believe it,” she said. she’s ex- the new logo better reflects the cited about the quirky, as a private brand’s identity. conversational prints, firm, oshrin “we launched Milly [at retail] such as one of owls. believes they in 2001. My collection has defi- “i enjoy the humor can expand nitely evolved over time from and touch of wit. it al- at their own season to season,” said smith. lows a little bit of lev- pace. “we live she realized that her previous ity in the collection,” very comfort- logo (Milly written out in script) said smith. she also ably with our no longer spoke to the spirit likes the ombré ef- business,” he and dNa of her collection. fect on her black said. The busi- “The collection evolved, but the and white designs. ness has aver- label stayed the same. it was “i’m really feel- aged 12 to 15 per- definitely stuck. it was a 1950s, ing tailoring right cent increases the 1960s ironically vintage-inspired now, men’s tailoring, last three years “and label. Today, i’ve evolved much precision and clean cut,” we’ve always been more into a modern collection, said smith. “i love to take a profitable.” with so inspired by classics but very for- classic pencil skirt and cut many of its competi- ward thinking,” said smith. it in a crazy material. i like tors rushing to open when she originally to take a classic and turn freestanding retail launched the collection, it was it on its head. That perme- stores, the couple a very different time. “Fashion ates my collection and is realize they have was coming out of the minimal- one of my signatures.” to stay competitive. ist 1990s. our collection looked smith’s designs will be “we’re very cognizant icb’s For more pre-Fall so different, so colorful and full getting additional airtime of that. we’re refresh- viscose contemporary, see of prints,” she said. while she in June, when an exclusively ing our brand logo to jersey still considers the collection to designed 60-plus-item collec- be more in tune with dress. be feminine, she believes it now tion for women and men bows what the product is. WWD.com/ has more of an edge. at more than 700 Banana we have to pick our runway. “it [pre-fall] is very trend Republic locations worldwide spots, where we have driven. Usually for me it’s a pre- and online. The collection in- some competitive ad- cursor for what i’ll be doing in corporates dresses, tops, bot- vantage,” said oshrin.

w30a004(5)a;11.indd 2 1/29/13 8:07 PM 01292013201012 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013 WWD.COM Flagship Strategy Seen Boosting Belk Sales {Continued from page one} where the company saw its big- just under $100 million annually. There are probably 10 or 12 gest sales gains last year. Belk Belk Inc. will convert in huntsville, ala., Belk stores that will become flagships entered Texas about 20 years up to 15 of its stores will open a 170,000-square-foot in the next several years through ago with two openings, in Paris into flagships. flagship at Bridge Street Town assortment enhancements. and Greenville. it wasn’t until centre in fall 2014, replacing an “we also have several stores 2005 that the company really set existing unit. Belk said the store in the right areas with the right out to expand in the state. Since will cost $20 million. customers and brands but sim- then, 11 more stores have opened To reach $6 billion in rev- ply lack the size. we will expand there. another Belk store is enues, Belk last year set a $600 three to five stores over the next opening in new Braunfels, Tex., million, five-year moderniza- five years,” Pitts added. in fall 2013, though this will not tion program. according to Tim according to Bufano, Belk be a flagship. Belk, $270 million will be spent has plenty of opportunity to Belk has stores in 16 states, on remodels and expansions; maximize the brand presenta- the furthest west being Texas. $263 million will be spent on Silixnx Txttxncxuxit tion on a location-by-location Regarding further geographi- new technology; $42 million has basis. among the labels Belk cal expansion, Pitt said, been earmarked for branding, merchants consider premi- “Presently we are not seriously and $14 million will be devoted to Exitx Lxréxal Bxaid um brands are Michael Kors, looking beyond Texas. But at enhancing service. The program lilly Pulitzer, vineyard vines, some point we may be looking encompasses everything from Free People, lucky, Ugg, at contiguous markets.” updating the image to spotlight- By DaviD Moin aileen Fisher, calvin Klein Belk’s first flagship in ing “modern, Southern style,” to collection, Diesel, Seven For the Southwest will open at service and assortments that Belk. in Texas, Belk currently growing its assortment of contem- Belk inc. is fortifying its flagships as part of a master all Mankind, Tommy Bahama, the Galleria Dallas, where are being merchandised to meet has 13 smaller-format stores. porary and Southern designers plan to reach $6 billion in sales within five years. Bobbi Brown and Mac. the company is taking over a the needs of Southern custom- asked why Belk is perform- while reducing its dependence Under the new strategy, Belk, which last year gen- “with our premium brands, 170,000-square-foot Saks Fifth ers. “our merchants made their ing better in Texas than other on traditional labels. at the same erated $3.78 billion in revenues, will invest $140 mil- the focus is on customer service. avenue site. Saks will close the first buying trip to the Dallas states, Pitt cited the Texas econ- time, Belk is getting aggressive lion on up to 15 stores to convert them into bona fide it’s not a price game.” store in June, and Belk will start market last year,” said Bufano. omy, the retailer’s marketing developing a stable of exclusive flagships through enlargements, remodels or pumped- Belk has flagships in a construction in July to convert “we were impressed with the connecting better in the state, private labels and, in March, will up assortments of “premium” brands, or some combi- number of its major markets, the site and reopen it in spring vibrancy of the city, and the and a stronger and more estab- launch an exclusive men’s collec- nation thereof. including atlanta; Raleigh 2014. Belk and Simon Property modern Texas style we saw. at lished online business. tion called Made cam newton, in addition, Belk will open two new flagships, in and charlotte, n.c., and Group inc., owner of the Belk we understand local and “i don’t know how many in association with the carolina Dallas and huntsville, ala., in 2014. The Dallas store Birmingham, ala., among other Galleria, will jointly pump $20 regional markets, and we know stores we could operate, but Panthers quarterback. will be the retailer’s first flagship in Texas. cities. The Southpark Mall in million into the construction. how to translate the trends to Texas is the greatest growth op- The company has also just Belk currently has 15 flagships, meaning that in a charlotte is Belk’s largest unit, at the Galleria, Belk will our individual markets.” portunity we have,” Pitt said. begun developing omnichannel few years, the 301-unit department store chain could at 330,000 square feet. Belk be facing stiff competition “Texas has been a very strong “it’s not nearly as saturated in capabilities, where it admitted- practically double its flagship count. stores can be as small as 75,000 from nordstrom, Macy’s, and market for us, and we see great Texas as we are in some places. ly has a long way to go. in 2009, in the next three years, “we believe we can pick up square feet in some locations. the only existing Gap, Banana opportunities for growth in the we have not targeted a spe- only 1 percent of Belk’s sales $75 million in incremental revenues by investing the while the flagship strategy is Republic and old navy combo state,” said Tim Belk, chair- cific number of stores, but over were conducted online. last $140 million in the locations,” Belk president and chief critical to the $6 billion objec- store, among other retailers. man and chief executive officer the next five years we prob- year, 3.3 percent of Belk’s sales merchandising officer Kathryn Bufano told wwD in an tive, there are other strategies Bufano said Belk can success- of Belk, and grandson of the ably could double our volume in were online. The company ex- exclusive interview on the flagship strategy. for growth, among them Texas, fully compete by offering strong store’s founder, william henry Texas.” Belk’s Texas volume is pects to hit 10 percent by 2015. Retailers like to refer to many of their stores as flagships, sometimes too loosely. But Belk officials say they have clear criteria for the designation. To Looks from qualify, Belk officials said, the store must be around Halston 160,000 square feet or larger in size, must have a Halston Heritage Stores to Open in March Heritage. strong enough assortment to convey the company’s new messaging about Southern, modern style and open in early March, followed is about simplicity. The story is must have a halo effect on other Belk stores within a By Rachel BRown by 3,000-square-foot stores at movement, our mannequins and 50-mile radius. the shopping centers Beverly the clothing,” said Malka. There are also minimum volume requirements, The Revival of halston is center and The Somerset The theatricality of man- which Belk executives declined to reveal. They are taking a major step forward in collection in los angeles and nequins is something halston believed to be a pretty wide range, depending on the March with the opening of three Troy, Mich., respectively. cultivated in its stores from the size of the store and its geography. halston heritage stores and at “Because there is halston, early days, and the new halston “a flagship really needs to have a first-class premi- least 10 this year. there are streets i won’t go to heritage stores bring that the- um brand assortment,” explained Ralph Pitts, execu- Since he assumed control of with heritage. There are certain atricality back. in the Madison tive vice president over real estate and legal, among the brand in 2011, halston chief malls, the runways, all those store, there are some 20 man- his other areas of responsibility. “we are looking at executive officer and chairman things are reserved for that nequins. when customers enter some of the stores we have that are large enough to Ben Malka has been plotting brand,” said Malka. “it could be the store, they encounter a cen- be flagships but don’t have the full flagship assortment. the company’s return to retail. Meatpacking and Fifth avenue tral platform with mannequins. Stores were historically a critical versus Madison and Soho. There are also mannequins sit- See PaGe X component of the brand, whose There’s segmentation.” ting in the spaces above hanging founder Roy halston Frowick in the next few years, clothes. “Remember, halston is was one of the earliest designers halston heritage’s retail net- about drape,” said Malka, elabo- to have namesake stores, begin- work could easily reach 50 to rating on the reason behind the ning with a location in 1968 on 100 units globally, according use of mannequins. “on a hang- Manhattan’s 68th Street, and per- to Malka. The brand’s inter- er, it will never look as good as it haps are more important today national retail debut at The does on the body.” as Malka reintroduces the label avenues in Kuwait will come Beyond the mannequins, to customers in an immensely shortly after it starts retailing much of the design inspira- cluttered marketplace. in america. in addition to the tion for the store is rooted in “it allows us from the win- Middle east, halston heritage is halston’s new York apartment Malka said. “elizabeth Taylor was price. They are really, truly lux- dows to the floor to expose working on deals to spread units and his passion for art, music, his best friend. liza Minnelli con- ury bags that we think will be a the brand in a consistent way in Southeast asia and india. fashion and cinema. Floating sidered him her big brother and big, big success,” said Malka. in to the consumer,” said Malka. halston and halston shelves displaying footwear are Studio 54, whatever the good or particular, however, he sees the “imagine these poor department heritage stores will dive into akin to a floating staircase in bad of it was, it was really about evening category as differentiat- stores that have 300 brands the well of halston’s rich heri- his apartment, and the three- being part of the celebrity scene ing halston heritage in its seg- changing monthly and having tage — halston’s minimalist dimensional backdrop for the and using it to promote fash- ment. “The idea is to offer very 300 ceo’s telling them they are aesthetic is a strong influence, handbag collection is influ- ion. he understood that before elevated garments at an afford- right and educating them on for instance — but Malka em- enced by intricate architectural anyone else.” able price,” he said, adding, “we what they are trying to sell. it is phasized the halston heritage squares that were in the trellis- about 30 percent of the store are really focusing on a modern very difficult. They do the best stores were created with ap- es. halston’s signature color was is dedicated to accessories, 30- to 50-year-old that goes to they can, but they will never be proachability in mind. “This gray, and shades of gray are ev- while the remainder is split be- work, and at night we dress her.” our brand, not unless you have isn’t the luxury part of our erywhere. even the wood floor- tween ready-to-wear and gowns. Malka wouldn’t discuss re- an in-store shop that you man- brand. it is our diffusion. Yo u ing has gray in it. Footwear is being launched tail revenue projections, but age. if you want to be a brand at want people to understand the halston’s love for ballet is the at the stores, the only places underscored the stores are this level, you have to be able to heritage of it being luxury, but source material for store fixtures it will be available for the mo- “built to make money the first expose your brand. There is no also be inviting,” he said. shaped like ballet barres. There ment. halston heritage retail day.” From an annual sales- better marketing tool.” The windows set the stage is no advertising imagery fea- prices for handbags and ready- per-square-foot perspective, although there are retail for the message about the brand tured on the walls of the stores. to-wear range from $395 to $895. he said, “i would say that i’ve plans for both halston and the that the halston heritage stores instead, fashion illustrations from highlighted in a retail environ- been extremely conservative, diffusion line halston heritage, seek to communicate. Described Bil Donovan and others decorate ment, handbags could become shaving off high percent points it is the latter that is prepared by Malka as “extremely minimal- them, as well as photographs from a larger piece of the brand’s of what the mall tells us is their to get out of the retail gate first. ist,” they are rimmed in a double the halston archives capturing business. “instead of offering averages in order to plan for The premier location will be “h” for halston heritage and the array of celebrities that wore contemporary handbags with the worst and aim for the best. a two-story, 4,400-square-foot showcase clothing on several halston in the Seventies. “he is some luxury infusion, we of- we are going to build the client unit on Madison avenue at mannequins crafted in positions credited for paving the way for fered luxury handbags with con- base. we will see the adjust- 83rd Street that is expected to to convey movement. “To me, it our industry with celebrities,” temporary infusion at the same ments that i need to make.”

w30a006a;7.indd 6 1/29/13 7:32 PM 01292013193330 REGISTER BY APRIL 1 FOR A SPECIAL RATE

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SPONSORED BY: 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013 denim Bread & Butter Reaps New-Format Benefits

lected brands’ and this is truly that,” re- said. “He knows how to bring brands By NORMA QUINTO marked Tony Tonnaer, ceo of KOI Kings of together and showcase them, and [this Indigo, about his satisfaction with the new season] it was clear.” BERLIN — A more tightly edited Bread & setup of the fair. While difficulties in southern Europe Butter market here garnered generally posi- Last season KOI was in the Temple of are expected to keep the euro zone in re- tive reactions from exhibitors and retailers, Denim section and now was part of the cession this year, with the International who seized upon sporadic signs L.O.C.K. segment, described in Monetary Fund projecting a 0.2 percent of economic improvement to B&B literature as dedicated to contraction for the region, strength in boost their buying. “craftsmanship, expertise, preci- northern Europe and growth in new and B&B, which ended its three- sion work and the highest manu- emerging markets is seen pushing global day run at the Tempelhof facturing standards,” paired growth up to 3.5 percent this year, accord- Airport Jan. 18, eliminated its with “love, passion and pride.” ing to the IMF. The challenges in Europe Temple of Denim section, di- Organizers, who subtitled the are expected to limit growth among ad- viding the show more along area “116 Labels of Common vanced economies to 1.4 percent, but the lines of lifestyle segments Kin,” said the aim was to dem- B&B provided signs of improvement, es- Gsus’ glow- and raising the fashion bar for onstrate that the brands in this pecially in the growing willingness of buy- in-the-dark exhibitors. section offered a concentrated ers to commit to orders at the show. jeans. “The streets are the best trading platform with authen- “There was a diverse representation of evidence that the so-called tic international exhibitors, quality international buyers and retailers monocultures of denim or starting with denim as a base at Bread & Butter, and we garnered un- rtw don’t work anymore,” and including shoes, acces- precedented interest from the Japanese Karl-Heinz Müller, chief ex- sories, sportswear and outer- market,” said Fred Mazza, ceo of New ecutive officer of Bread & wear. York-based brand Prps, about the fair. Butter, declared. Moreover, “If I look at the stores “I found some great brands, such as Müller said Bread & Butter where we sell and I look at Rokker Jeans and KOI Kings of Indigo,” “would like to add a high- the brands around me here, noted Sam Ben-Avraham, buyer for and exaggerated signs of wear and tear end women’s segment in it all makes sense,” Tonnaer Atrium in New York and Miami and him- for 1,000 euros, or about $1,350, at re- the urban area” and is Mavi’s said. “For us it is quite a self a trade show veteran as the found- tail, the collection was picked up by also considering a wom- ethnic good environment.” er and former president of Project. He Bergdorf Goodman and Ron Herman. en’s “Upper Street” sec- print. Jason Denham, ceo of added that he came to B&B to find new New treatments in the form of flocked tion. This may see the Denham the Jeanmaker, ex- lines that have value for the money. denim and ethnic prints were spotted B&B layout revised again plained that Müller and his This sentiment was echoed by at Mavi. Serdar Mazmanoglu, director next season. team made it easy for retail- Tim Groothuis, buyer for the seven of Mavi Europe, said business for the Bread & Butter’s moves to elevate ers to see brands not for the “names” as Bendorff ’s multibrand men’s wear Turkish brand had a very good start this the standards for exhibitor entry were much as for their quality and price catego- shops in Holland. “We look for special season at B&B. He noted the one-season well received. ry appropriate for their respective stores. things, exclusive items that have good collaboration with designer Hussein “He [Müller] calls it the show ‘for se- “Karl-Heinz is the curator,” Denham quality next to a good price.” Chalayan had been quite successful Groothuis added that the market had and that Mavi is currently in talks with changed enormously in recent years another designer of the same caliber, and the days of stocking a lot of product whose name he would not divulge. in anticipation of across-the-board con- Another example of fall’s ethnic sumer acceptance are gone. “Five years inspiration was Dutch label Scotch ago, customers would think once and & Soda’s women’s low-rise skinny fit buy,” he said. “Now they think about it “Navajo blues” with ikat side-seam em- three times before they buy and we do broidery at 129.95 euros, or about $175, ON-DEMAND the same here — we think about quality, at retail. style and price.” Notable textile innovations were Groothuis said that “buying strategy found at Amsterdam’s Gsus Sindustries, this season includes our basics, Nudie which brought out glow-in-the-dark VIDEO Jeans, Drykorn, Marc Jacobs and new jeans, “spotted” denim (referred to as items that will fit our store concept. For jeans with “colored pickles”), as well fall we see a lot of big knitwear, wider as the textured “towel rough” but soft knits and big cable knits. In denim, jeans. Gsus also got in on the camou- heritage is still good for us and we are flage action with blazers and pants for adding more sportswear. We sell a lot of men and women. dress jackets paired with jeans and we Across every segment of the market see this working.” there were motorcycle influences, as One brand that stood out was Japan’s well as flight jackets and other military Momotaro. To make it easier to market styling. Despite the enduring strength its jeans, Momotaro maintains a uni- of the skinny silhouette, new shapes form retail price of 200 euros, or about for women included evolutions of baggy $270 at current exchange, for all its boyfriend jeans with a more feminine, jeans for both men and women, regard- high-waist and cropped silhouette. For less of fabric or style. men, trends for fall included shorter, Despite the difficulties facing the sock-revealing tapered stretch jeans, nation’s economy, Italy continued to as- while wider, low-crotch baggy styles sert its status as a jeanswear and denim continue as part of the fall picture. innovator. Three relatively new Italian For their first ventures into women’s brands were at B&B for the first time wear for fall, Nigel Cabourn, KOI and and distinguished themselves with bold Japan Blue presented their key men’s statements: Bark, with colorful knit looks in smaller-scale versions for sweaters, reversible jackets and coats women. KOI’s Tonnaer noted that his KIRSTEN GILLIBRAND LAZARO HERNANDEZ J. CHRISTOPHER BURCH for men and women; Two Italian Boys decision to branch out into women’s was U.S. Senator JACK MCCOLLOUGH Founder & with refined and elegant yet casual suits fueled by retailer requests. Designers & Co-Founders Chief Executive Officer and separates for men, and Care Label, In terms of both presentation and a denim brand for men and women of- product for the younger fashion set, fering raw and treated selvage jeans Berlin dressed up this season, as with camouflage printing on the inside clearly seen at Bright, the “street and of the fabric. skate” show now in its 16th season. The Another newcomer emphasizing “Bright European Skateboard Awards” its “value for price” proposition was had a formal dress code this year. Guys Allevol, a U.K. brand offering hand- were big on suits worn with sneakers LEADERSHIP made Japanese selvage with a touch of and knit caps. vintage from 125 pounds, or about $195, Besides moving to a more central lo- Apparel & Retail CEO Summit at retail. cation that brought more retailers to the Showing the durability of premium market, a challenge for the Bright show pricing when the fashion ante is raised, this season was to separate streetwear New York’s Prps showed its Prps Noir from skateboard fashion in a more busi- collection with new hand-distressed nesslike setting. Bright founder Thomas limited-edition jeans handmade in Martini said, “These days most brands are WWD.com/SUMMITSONDEMAND Japan. Put through a hard-core finish- going in a more clean-looking direction. It ing process that leaves oil slicks, holes seems like everybody is growing up.” MEMO PAD

BEST IN SHOW: Two days of corporate backslapping for Condé Nast ended Tuesday night with the annual handing out of the best- in-class awards to the year’s best-performing publishing executives. Since Monday, Condé’s management brass and publishers have been ensconced at the Four WWDSTYLE Seasons Resort in Palm Beach, Fla., for their annual corporate retreat. On the second and last night, executives enjoyed some words from chief executive officer Charles Townsend — who, Wired publisher Howard Mittman tweeted, “killed it” PHOTO BY STEFANIE KEENAN during his speech — and got some prizes. Agnes Chapski, whose Allure was up nearly 20 percent in ad pages last year, took the top award. Chapski, who rose from Condé’s effective associate publisher bench to helm her magazine four years ago, was credited for Warming Up doubling Allure’s operating profit. Lucy Kriz, who’s been leading W only since October, got the second prize after the magazine finished the year with 9 percent more ad pages. Vogue’s LOS ANGELES — Teresa Palmer and Analeigh Tipton — Susan Plagemann, a fixture of the awards, got third place. Hollywood pals, up-and-comers and the female stars of the Several publishers launched new marketing campaigns last year, but it was Bon Appétit’s zombie rom-com “Warm Bodies” — talked with WWD about Pamela Drucker Mann who walked away with their post-apocalyptic plans. For more, see page 10. the teamwork award, shared with editor in chief Adam Rapoport. Mann has sought to recast Bon Appétit as a lifestyle magazine. David Orlin, senior vice president of operations and strategic sourcing, was named best among corporate executives, while WWD parent Fairchild Fashion Media vice president of finance and operations Suzanne Reinhardt received FFM’s best executive award. It was not all business in Palm Beach. A picture that appeared on the Instagram feed of Jason Binn, founder of DuJour magazine — not owned by Condé — captured Condé editorial director Thomas Wallace, Architectural Digest publisher Giulio Capua and president Bob Sauerberg taking a break Monday from a round of golf. — ERIK MAZA

DARK SHADOWS: New Yorkers are not used to seeing City Council speaker and presumptive mayoral front-runner Christine Quinn playing the glamour puss. So New York magazine’s cover this week was bound to cause a strong reaction. Quinn is shot in key light, her round face perfectly framed by an immaculate bob and the raised collar of her black jacket, shooting a devastating come-hither look straight ahead. On Tuesday, the New York Post delivered the inevitable zinger: “Mayor Dracula,” read the paper’s front page. “Queen of Goth-am” was the headline online. The image was not the result of Quinn’s campaign seeking to soften her image, said New York photo director Jody Quon. The magazine set the tone for the shoot from the start. “We wanted to capture Christine in a way she’d never been seen before. We wanted her more stylized, more glamorous. Not so much so that she would be so different that you wouldn’t recognize her,” Quon said. “A little more polished, a little more camera-ready.” Quon chose fashion photographer Ruven Afanador to shoot the cover, and assigned another photographer, Pari Dukovic, to follow Quinn around for the inside photos that would accompany the Jonathan Van Meter-penned profile. Quon and Afanador agreed Quinn’s red hair would be a central focus of the image. Quinn brought her own hairstylist, as well as some of her own clothing. The black coat that ended up on the cover, however, belonged to New York. Quon did not know the brand. Quon said the speaker’s team was completely in support of the styling and the shoot. “They were there every step of the way. Everyone was moving towards the same goal. It was kind of a lovefest,” she said. Quinn told the Post: “I was hoping that I would look pretty and thin, not particularly jowly, which is how I usually look in pictures. I wasn’t in any shape or form managing the photo shoot.” Asked by WWD if the photo made the speaker look like a Bond villain or a femme fatale, Quon disagreed. “A woman wearing a black coat with a collar up does not connote femme fatale. It’s an old- fashioned view of what really is a professional woman looking very elegant. Men have a very different view when it comes to something like this,” she said. And if it stands out on the newsstand, all the better. “We wanted to make a very memorable and arresting cover. This is what we thought was the best way to do that,” Quon said. — E.M. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Analeigh Tipton and Bodies Talk Teresa Palmer. WWD.com/eye.

WITH THE continued reliability shotgun. We are not damsels in of zombie apocalypse fare at the distress. We know how to fight the box office, it’s not surprising that undead. I’m glad that Hollywood Hollywood has given the genre seems to be embracing these the teen rom-com treatment. strong female characters. In theaters Friday “Warm A.T.: At the same time it wasn’t Bodies,” written and directed a statement either. They were by Jonathan Levine (known for still super girly. Yo u can be “The Wackness” and “50/50”), is strong and still feminine. There a clever, quirky movie, starring is a scene where I’m supposed Australian-born Teresa Palmer, to be watching TV and taking 26, as a human girl who falls apart and putting together a for an undead boy, portrayed gun, which I can now do with by Nicholas Hoult. Palmer’s my eyes closed. It felt so good wingwoman is played byAnaleigh that I would sit around and just Tipton, 24, the former “America’s play with my gun. Next Top Model” contestant who broke out in 2011’s “Crazy, Stupid, WWD: What’s up next for both Love.” WWD recently caught up of you? with the starlets-turned-friends A.T.: I have a film called “One at the Four Seasons hotel in Square Mile” with Richard Beverly Hills. — MARCY MEDINA Jenkins and Kim Basinger, and I eye did my first lead this year in “Two KEENAN STEFANIE WWD: How did you wind up Night Stand” with Miles Teller. becoming friends? T.P.: We all knew a lead was just Analeigh Tipton: We bonded over around the corner ’cause she’s PHOTO BY Moksha yoga in Montreal, where so fantastic in this movie and a we filmed “Warm Bodies.” hilarious comedienne. what the character was, what I I didn’t know existed. But I and I sort of fell into acting. Teresa Palmer: In our down time A.T.: Aaaw, thanks.” was wearing, or my name. We haven’t done a period piece yet, T.P.: I read her blog during the we wanted to get some physical T.P.: It’s true. After “Warm just started rolling. And I just which I’d like to tr y. shoot. It’s so intensely poignant activity in, so we decided to Bodies,” the next film I did was wrapped a film called “Parts Per and she sees the beauty among do this great form of hot yoga “Knight of Cups.” It’s a Terence Billion.” It’s about the last few WWD: How did you begin acting? things that people often that actually started in Toronto. Malick movie [with Christian days of the world and it follows T.P.: Growing up in Adelaide, overlook. And she’s funny. She Analeigh just texted me that Bale and Natalie Portman]. the story of three couples and Hollywood was like a distant was going to write a rap skit for there’s now one in L.A., so we A.T.: Didn’t you get that role how we’re dealing with this dream. I made a low-budget us to do on the movie. are yoga buddies here, too. when we were on set? impending apocalypse. Australian movie [“2:37”] at 19 A.T.: It was something T.P.: I didn’t get the role I and it ended up premiering at about cuddling… WWD: The movie is quite action originally auditioned for but WWD: What do you dream Cannes and changing my life. T.P.: But nobody else really packed. How did you train for it? they ended up making another of doing next? I was at university at the time thought it was funny. She’ll T.P.: There was a lot of running. part for me. It was completely A.T.: Every time I read a script studying to be a teacher. have to finish it so we can do And I now know how to shoot a improvised. No script, no idea I’m surprised. There are roles A.T.: I moved to L.A. to be a writer another project together. General Fare

JOHN AQUINO Goin’ to the Chapel “WE’RE STILL putting the finishing touches on,” Eugene Remm explains while scooting THE APPEAL to her of the to restore an existing one.

aside for a construction worker who has PHOTO BY people she writes about, The historian Rosemary Hill a paint-spattered ladder hoisted over his historian Jenny Uglow says, notes, “When they say, ‘It’s in shoulder. “It’s a process.” is “when something that they a dilapidated state’ — watch Remm is idling by the bar of The General, should do occurs to them, out.” Then Losh tore the the new eatery from EMM Group, the The interior of they think, ‘Why not?’” church down and created an nightlife wunderkind duo of which Remm is The General. And, indeed, Uglow’s entirely new one, marked by

half. His partner, Mark Birnbaum, is tapping books always have an ROBIN FARQUHAR-THOMSON a Romanesque inspiration away on his BlackBerry by the entrance original angle. She likes to and a remarkable variety of doorway (the other “M” stands for Michael tables. Its vibe is ambiguously retro, “Mad find a relatively unknown carvings, including a font

Jenny PHOTO BY Hirtenstein, an entrepreneur who provides Men” gone East. — and fascinating — part Uglow in the shape of a stork, and much of the backing but isn’t as involved The cuisine is also nebulous, in the best of history, research it many other animal carvings, creatively as Remm and Birnbaum). Though possible sense. Remm and Birnbaum enlisted thoroughly, and turn it into a along with plenty of the dinner service is due to commence in a Hung Huynh, their executive chef at Catch, book. Most of her reviewers organic inspiration for the couple of hours, the pair seem unfazed by the to take the reins. Up-and-coming pastry chef have commented favorably church’s name, pine cones. handful of burly laborers trudging around the Thiago Silva is behind the desserts. The on these choices. Her latest She even did some of the space. This is sort of their thing. menu spans the breadth of the Asian flavor is “The Pinecone: The Story carving herself. “She got up The pair first made their mark in the club profile, ranging from delicate, unfussy sushi of Sarah Losh, Forgotten on the ladder with her great world with scene-y spots Tenjune and SL. rolls (spicy tuna with jalapeño salt and salsa Romantic Heroine — skirts,” Uglow says. Later they focused on food, opening Abe & verde) to small plates (Philly pepper-steak Antiquarian, Architect and Most people who see Arthur’s, Lexington Brass and then Catch. sticky buns; Vietnamese summer rolls; pork Visionary” (Farrar, Straus the church for the first With their roots in nightlife, it’s not surprising and cabbage pot stickers) to larger fare (a & Giroux). Uglow grew up time assume it is an Arts & that nearly all of EMM’s major outposts have bourbon-miso sea bass served on a bed of in the part of Cumbria, Crafts movement building, been in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. green beans and napa cabbage). The dishes England, that’s the site of but in fact it’s unique, The General is a few blocks south are meant to be shared and are served in an the unusual church Losh created 50 years before and many east of their usual stomping as-ready progression. Desserts — green tea designed and built between 1840 and the Arts & Crafts era. In doing her grounds, on a quiet stretch of the Bowery, doughnuts, cheesecake spring rolls, etc. — 1842. “She amused me,” says Uglow of research, Uglow found two or three where Chinatown and the Lower East also riff on the theme. her subject. “I like strong people who families, who had lived in the town Side mesh together. The tract is prime for Huynh, a “Top Chef ” winner known forged her own way. She might be a bit for generations, and she saw their The General, which is focusing on upscale for his knife skills and mastery of Asian scary to meet — intense and forceful, daybooks from the time. “People are Asian fare. cuisine, was initially none too keen on the but obviously, she was reserved, too.” very passionate about their area,” Design firm Icrave outfitted the sprawling new venture. “When we met with the other Losh was a member of the local she says. “I really felt like part of a space: 4,000 square feet, accommodating chefs we were interested in hiring, Hung gentry, a family who made a substantial community, as if I were writing their 300 diners. A floor-to-ceiling glass-paneled would sit in on the tastings,” Birnbaum fortune through investment and book for them.” garage door lines the storefront, overlooking says. “He wasn’t happy with what he saw, so innovation. Neither she nor her sister, Uglow has written 11 other books, the corner of Bowery and Spring Street. eventually he realized no one was going to Katharine, ever married — clearly including “The Lunar Men: Five When weather permits, it opens out over do it the way he knew it should be.” by choice, since both were attractive, Friends Whose Curiosity Changed the the street as an overhang for outdoor dining. Huynh remembers it well. “Yeah, I didn’t personable and, of course, heiresses. World,” “A Gambling Man: Charles A generous marble wraparound bar is the want anything to do with it. I really wanted Uglow questions whether Losh would II’s Restoration Game” and “Nature’s focal point of the interior. In front of it, a to focus on Catch,” he says. “But then again, I have been able to find a suitable mate Engraver: A Life of Thomas Bewick.” bistro-style dining area circumscribed by like to have a lot going on, so it works.” among the men who were available; She describes herself as “semiretired”; whitewashed brick walls. Vintage pendant — TAYLOR HARRIS most, she says, would have “bored her she works as an editor at Chatto & lights hover above, fastened to the exposed rigid.” Sarah and her sister were very Windus, where she oversees the work wood-beam ceilings. The back, and more The General close; the former was devastated when of only five writers. She has a new formal, dining quarters gleam from walls 199 Bowery her sister died young, and, in the end, book in the works about life in Britain wrapped in gold and crimson wallpaper. New York the two were buried together. during the Napoleonic Wars. “It’s a The furniture is midcentury modern, with 212-271-7101; emmgrp.com When Losh decided to create her crowd biography,” she explains. “It’s mustard leather banquettes and studded Open Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun., church, she led the town elders to kind of a home-front book — who did wing-back chairs enveloping black Formica 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. believe that she was just planning well, who lost out.” — LORNA KOSKI WWD wednesday, january 30, 2013 11 WWD.COM

charity that aims to nurture the creative Center during the fall runway shows. talents of at-risk children and youths. Fashion Plates participants include “I am most inspired from my everyday Charlotte Ronson, Karlie Kloss, Rachel Zoe and Fashion scoops life and the people that surround me, so Billy Farrell. The pun and games will get the idea of a co-creation with the people under way on Feb. 7. — TAYLOR HARRIS that I admire and respect the most is very NEW HIRE: Nordstrom has turned to handful of New York’s more sociable exciting,” said Wang. “This collaboration CHINESE CRACKER: Topshop has created a Opening Ceremony for its newest types joined the ranks — some 16,000 represents a new way that technology and short film to celebrate Chinese New Year, executive. strong — of amateur curlers in America. style can come together. And, through a its first campaign to mark the occasion, The Seattle-based retailer tapped Champagne maker Veuve Clicquot concerted effort, I am happy to be a part which falls on Feb. 8 this year. Olivia Kim as director of creative enlisted a team of ambassadors from of supporting such a great charity as The film, called “Lanterns,” is set in projects. Kim, who starts on Monday, the Norfolk Curling Club in Norfolk, ArtStart that embraces creativity and art London and sees two models watch as was most recently vice president Conn., to teach the proud, if oft- in a way that can change lives.” lanterns float over the capital and the of creative at Opening Ceremony, misunderstood, ice sport to a group — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Houses of Parliament. It is set to a cover of where she reported to cofounder and that included Helen Lee Schifter, “This Little Light of Mine” by Berend Dubbe creative director Humberto Leon. Her Claude Morais and Peter Davis. Other PLV’S FRENCH CONNECTION: PLV Studio and Gwen Thomas, and ends by wishing the creative talents did not go unnoticed partygoers, such as Padma Lakshmi, inked a licensing deal with French viewer a “Happy Chinese New Year” in during her time there. Last August, waited for the stones to clear Connection to create its handbags English and “Prosperous New Year” in Kim and Jen Brill designed a three-style off the ice for the for the American, Canadian traditional Chinese characters. capsule collection for Cole Haan to free skate period of and Mexican markets. The The film lasts 58 seconds, a mark its fall Chelsea pump. the program. More collection, which will hit consideration made to coincide with At Nordstrom, Kim is expected to still kept off the ice stores in July, consists of a Chinese superstitions of numerology bring her creativity and leverage her altogether, opting variety of styles including using the luckiest numbers 5 and 8, merchandising skills and contacts. for the comfort of a small leather goods, tech both of which are symbols of wealth She will be based in Seattle, and cordoned-off section accessories and handbags and prosperity. report to Pete Nordstrom, president of the lobby and with retail prices from The film will make its debut of merchandising, who cited “the passed hors d’oeuvres. $48 to $198. According to Wednesday on Topshop’s Chinese social experience and talent she brings to help Though a bit of a the New York-based PLV, networks and all of its platforms globally us move our brand forward” as reasons strange sight in the which owns Pour La Victoire including YouTube, Facebook, Twitter, for the hire. — MARC KARIMZADEH Meatpacking District, and Kelsi Dagger, French Google+, Pinterest and Instagram. the demo made a Connection is its first license. Topshop currently has more than 10 NOT FOR SALE: As it returned to profit certain sense. Curling “French Connection million followers on its Chinese Weibo in 2011, Versace has been looking at is an intensely social A French Connection was attracted to our site and more than 6 million across its alternatives to grow and, ever since it sport, as several of the handbag by PLV Studio. company because of its other social media channels. The first hooked up with Goldman Sachs and Norfolk club’s members entrepreneurial culture and Topshop store in China will open in May, Italian bank Intesa Sanpaolo last year pointed out to those philosophy as well as the with a flagship in Hong Kong. to discuss ways to finance its expansion, who did take a shot at sliding the company’s strength in manufacturing and Additionally, in keeping with the rumors periodically resurface around stones and sweeping the ice. When retail distribution,” said Kenny Horowitz, Chinese New Year tradition to gift the brand about potential buyers one participant’s broom fell to the ice, president of PLV. “In turn, we believe “Lucky Money” as a wish of prosperity, from Qatar and the Gulf area to the several club members extolled those in the power of the French Connection the brand has created limited-edition Far East. On Tuesday, chairman Santo around the rink to drink. A quick brand, its longevity and its importance in lucky red gift cards and envelopes, which Versace responded to an Italian daily survey of the crowd showed no one the contemporary market.” — A.S. will be available in its flagships and claiming that Korean fund E-Land, had needed much enticement. online globally. — JULIA NEEL which controls Mandarina Duck, among — MATTHEW LYNCH FULL PLATE: Ordinarily others, was evaluating a deal to acquire reserved for the SUVs his 30 percent stake in the firm. “I ALEXANDER’S GALAXY: Alexander Wang is of suburban moms, haven’t spoken to anyone about selling joining forces with Samsung to create a vanity license plates my shares and I am not interested in limited-edition bag inspired by sketches are getting a fashion- doing so. My stake is not for sale,” said and photos by a group of influencers forward makeover. New Versace. His sister Donatella and her selected by the designer. The group York Fashion Week daughter, Allegra Versace Beck, each hold of stylists, photographers and friends sponsor Mercedes-Benz a 20 and 50 percent stake, respectively, will use the Samsung Galaxy Note II to has enlisted a slew of in the company. The Versaces have produce the images, which will serve designers, models and repeatedly said they have no plans to as a base for Wang to create a print that front-row ubiquitors to relinquish control of the firm by taking will be used on the bag. create custom vanity on an investor or going for an initial The bag will hit select Alexander tags set to be displayed public offering. — LUISA ZARGANI Wang boutiques and the brand’s on a nine-and-a-half- e-commerce site this summer. foot wall installation A still from Topshop’s SO ICY: On Monday night at The Proceeds from the sale will be outside the Star Lounge Chinese New Year campaign. Standard hotel’s seasonal ice rink, a donated to ArtStart, a New York City at the tents at Lincoln Kirkwood Wins BFC/Vogue Prize turning beautiful designs into a brand By JULIA NEEL identity that is already admired world- wide and which has potential for growth.” LONDON — Nicholas Kirkwood is Caroline Rush, chief executive officer For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. the winner of the fourth BFC/Vogue of the BFC, added, “The caliber of ap- Designer Fashion Fund prize. plications in the short list were second The shoe designer beat a short list to none, all of the designers proved that of fellow designers including Mary they are at a very crucial stage in their Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto, Emilia business when the fund could deliver a Retail Sourcing Manager Wickstead and Roksanda Ilincic to win real opportunity to accelerate growth. Visual Merchandising Company: Un- derstand raw materials, mfg, freight, the award, which will see him receive However, Nicholas’ application provided estimating and Int’l business. Develop 200,000 pounds (about $315,860 at cur- a clear and compelling case for how both prototypes and manufacture custom Opportunity Canada ASSOCIATE DESIGNER visual display products. Min. 5 yrs. in rent exchange) of funding to funding and targeted mentor- Women’s Outerwear Company is seek- related position. Please email: If you have an accessories (any kind, li- ing an Associate Designer. Minimum 5 [email protected] grow his business. ing would be used to assist censed, branded, generic) company look- years exp. Strong computer skills - Kirkwood will also receive him in taking the next steps ing to expand into Canada, get in touch Web PDM, excel, illustrator, sketch. with us; well established, well connected Understanding of fabric, trims, gar- mentoring from key senior- in developing a global brand.” with all retailers in Canada. Send info to: ment fit/construction and manufactur- level mentors and benefit The judging panel includ- great opportunities [email protected] ing. Effective verbal and written com- munication skills. Needs to be a team from a bespoke program tai- ed Shulman, Rush, Browns’ player, will work closely with the de- signer. Please send your resume to: lored specifically to assist him Joan Burstein, the Daily [email protected] reach his business goals over Telegraph’s Lisa Armstrong, DESIGNER the next 18 months, and take Harrods’ Marigay McKee, SALES MANAGER Looking for freelance Active Wear De- NJ based importer of women’s sun- him from a developing label Topshop’s Mary Homer, EXPERIENCED SALES signer to create new line; must be or- Nicholas glasses and head wears seeks full time to a global fashion brand. Samantha Cameron and PROFESSIONAL ganized with factory contacts; must experienced salesperson for major Kirkwood All majors. have knowledge of construction and dept. stores and retail business. Base British Vogue editor Burberry’s Sarah Manley, as ISO company that wants to grow. Call costing, and the ability to develop salary plus commission. Email resume Photo by tim Jenkins Photo by product with commercial appeal. Re- Alexandra Shulman and well as representatives from 516 256 9580 to [email protected], or fax sumes to: (973)389-1112 [email protected] British Fashion Council chairman the companies that support the fund. New York Embroidery Studio Natalie Massenet cohosted the event Kirkwood, who trained at Central Embroidery, Laser Cutting & SALES MANAGER Embellishments Full service shop to the Merchandiser Well known womens’ apparel manufac- at Nobu Berkeley in London’s Mayfair. Saint Martins and Cordwainers, launched trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or Designer Dress and Sportswear com- turer in need of an individual with pro- “It’s particularly exciting to be here to- his collection in 2005. His shoes are regu- [email protected] pany seeking talented merchandiser ven ability to manage a sales team; Po- with 5 years of experience and great sition requires excellent analytical, night knowing that the recipient of the lars on the red carpet and he provided PATTERNS, SAMPLES, follow up. Knowledge in Photoshop communication, follow up skills, with PRODUCTIONS and Illustrator is a plus; please email established relationships with stores. second BFC/Vogue designer fund award, the heels for Philip Treacy’s show during Full service shop to the trade. resumes to: Send resumes to: Christopher Kane, has now got the sup- the last London Fashion Week, as well Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 [email protected] [email protected] port of the big international PPR con- as for the 2012 Victoria’s Secret catwalk glomerate,” said Shulman in her speech. show. He opened his first London store in “The winner we ultimately chose was May 2011, a New York shop opened a year because we were impressed by how they later and he launched his first men’s col- (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] had developed their business along with lection in January this year.

w30a011a;5.indd 11 1/29/13 7:59 PM 01292013195925 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30, 2013 WWD.COM Data Emerging as Top Driver of Brands’ Success {Continued from page one} to the next step — and how do we then embed links on Instagram, it will take these images and links them to the ac- Amazon is “obsessive” about its data quantify that to purchases. Yo u have the this to another level,” minkoff said, add- tual product pages that contain the items and statistic-gathering functionalities, traffic, but what is the quality of that traf- ing that Rebecca minkoff has also started featured in the photo. on nastygal.com’s and for mullen, it’s interesting that fic? Then we have to run the numbers to partake in Facebook advertising in the homepage, there is a bar along the bottom the National Retail Federation rates to see which of the channels drives the past three months. Because the competi- featuring all of the Instagram images con- Amazon.com as having the best ser- most sales and which customers drive tion started to advertise, the brand real- taining the hashtag #nastygal (approved vice — despite the fact that it possesses the most sales,” minkoff said. ized that even though they have high en- by the site). A simple search on Instagram none of the traditional notions of cus- Engagements, comments and “likes” gagement with fans, advertising becomes for images with the #nastygal tag will tomer service. are closely monitored — and minkoff “somewhat of a necessity.” elicit almost 35,000 images — and de Cabo “There’s not a big live chat box and now counts about three to four subjects He detailed a recent digital collabo- explained that this is the first time a link there aren’t 1-800 numbers all over. They that always garner a strong response ration with Leandra medine of the man exists between shared comment and a di- target every aspect of the shopping expe- from an engagement perspective. Repeller that tied in with the push of the rect point of purchase on an e-commerce rience specific to customer preferences “our customer has different needs brand’s new jewelry category. A YouTube cite. All images are shoppable, and if a and then operationally fulfill video featuring the blogger has garnered user clicks on an item, she is directed to a that with two-day delivery,” more than 126,000 views since going product page where, at the bottom, a bar mullen said. live Jan. 9, and coupled with cross-pol- with images of users who have this same Kate Spade’s vice presi- lination on all the brand’s social media item in their photos are featured. dent of e-commerce, Johanna channels (as well as third-party sites that olapic is already seeing a cost to murphy, also cites Amazon (and shared the content), January became the conversion that is increasing by up to 5 Nordstrom) as setting the bar biggest nonholiday e-commerce month percent on an e-commerce site’s overall for how all brands in the in- conversion. For users that in- dustry should work, especially teract with a photograph, the from an operational standpoint average conversion is two to and what customers expect. three times higher, and the Working collaboratively with average time spent on the site the creative side, Kate Spade is more than double the aver- spends much time studying age user, clocking in at about and analyzing consumer be- 17 minutes. havior. For example, murphy Fashion GPS, the arbiter of pointed out that “science wins” digital fashion week invites, will when it comes to e-mail subject unveil a new feature next month lines — noting that a specific targeted at the B2B sector. type of message or wording The beta version of will generate the most traffic Fashion GPS Radar Pro (an back to the Web site, and sub- official launch is expected in sequently more transactions. September) will start deliver- This spring, when Kate Spade ing data points in real time rolls out a series of redesigned with what is actually happen- Web sites for all of its brands ing at the show, according to — Kate Spade New York, Jack Fashion GPS founder and ceo Spade and the new Kate Spade Eddie mullon. Saturday — an overhaul of the A few seasons ago, the back end will be just as important company began testing how as how the sites look. Attention fast the platform could get im- was paid to the consumer and ages to its mobile platforms how to better the shopping expe- in preparation for the release rience for them online, as well as of Fashion GPS Radar Pro. In implement enhanced inventory February, brands that wish to management systems. partner with the tool can ex- Rebecca minkoff ’s eight-year- Sites such as Rebecca Minkoff, Fashion GPS Radar Pro pect Fashion GPS to have im- old brand credits the Internet for and Nasty Gal are using data-gathering processes. ages up within 10 minutes of its rapid growth, and data have the models walking down the been integral to the brand’s over- saleswise in the company’s history. runway. For nonpartners, images will be all strategy from the beginning, ac- January jewelry sales specifically have up within about two hours. For the first cording to chief executive officer increased by 250 percent over sales from time, users can request samples (as early Uri minkoff. He said the compa- November and December combined. as 10 minutes after they appear on the ny — almost from the start — has Several solutions and sites, including runway), as well as social share images maintained dashboards to moni- the recently launched verified blogger di- and retrieve data on what’s happening tor how it is doing online, as well rectory Fohr Card, were founded to assist with respect to social sharing. as about 10 to 15 other brands and in the data-gathering process within the “Let’s say you have look one and it’s personalities it tracks. fashion and beauty industries. being requested 400 times. [Now] you minkoff also pointed to Amazon — throughout the day and we’ve come to olapic is an 18-month-old technol- know that you have to produce that. As noting that the e-tail giant is acknowledg- understand what those needs are that ogy solution that bridges the gap be- soon as there is an action, it gives you ing the importance of balancing science are going to inspire her and going to en- tween content generated via social plat- a dashboard of what you need to do and art as it gears up to open its first gage with her. Depending on platform, forms and the e-commerce experience. to react to that and what to focus on,” fashion-focused studio in Williamsburg, some of it is for engagement and others According to olapic cofounder Jose de mullon said. in Brooklyn, later this year, to be entirely are for sales,” minkoff explained. Cabo, his team — now at 23 and expected Fashion GPS Styles, a destination dedicated to Amazon Fashion’s entities Instagram generates the most value to triple by year’s end — started work- where brands and clients can upload on amazon.com, Shopbop and myHabit. in terms of engagement, but as for sales ing with publications like people.com, their content and press and buyers can Rebecca minkoff employs a part-time on rebeccaminkoff.com, minkoff said The Daily News and mashable in June have access to the content, is also being chief digital architect who minkoff said Facebook is the main driver, mostly be- 2011, and in August 2012, launched its further developed to include superior is “strictly math, data and science.” The cause there is no way as of now to drive first e-commerce and fashion client, Free data tracking of the images and will see a ceo will come up with the creative ideas users from Instagram to one’s site. People. The company counts Lululemon relaunch later this year. If a buyer wants and the digital architect is the one who “For actual sales numbers, Facebook and Nasty Gal as clients, and each has to make an appointment with a show- determines if it’s performing or not. provides the best value of sales, but implemented the solution’s technology room that works with several brands, “He’s the one who will tell us what Instagram has done the best from a into their respective digital flagships. they can request an appointment (it’s not ranking the social channels have in di- brand awareness and how that’s impact- olapic takes the content shared by an open platform) and get access to view recting traffic to our site and taking it ed the brand with retail. once you can fans on Instagram, for example, curates the library digitally, mullon said. Amazon Posts $39M Loss in 2012, but Revenues Climb 27.1% stride and shares of the compa- beefing up its ability to get from fashion and accessories, the National Retail Federation’s By EVAN CLARK ny gained 8.1 percent to $281.39 goods to consumers, opening 20 but overall growth is expected Gold medal award. “After five in after-market trading Tuesday. new fulfillment centers last year. to continue. First-quarter sales years, eBooks is a multibillion- AmAzoN.Com lost money last Amazon has fashion on its That type of spending, which are slated to rise to between $15 dollar category for us and grow- year but took a big chunk of radar and last fall leased a has eaten into Amazon’s bottom billion and $16.6 billion, growth ing fast — up approximately 70 market share in the process. 40,000-square-foot space in line, is intended to help the firm of between 14 and 26 percent. percent last year. In contrast, The Web giant’s net losses Williamsburg, Brooklyn, for a continue to grab sales and mar- The company has radically our physical book sales expe- for 2012 tallied $39 million, or 9 photo studio to support Amazon ket share. The company’s total disrupted a series of businesses rienced the lowest December cents a diluted share. That com- Fashion, Shopbop and myHabit. revenues jumped 27.1 percent to as it’s grown. growth rate in our 17 years as a pared with 2011 earnings of $631 The studio will shoot thousands $61.09 billion last year as sales “We’re now seeing the transi- book seller, up just 5 percent.” million, or $1.37 a share. Losses of on-model looks a year in a bid of products increased 23.2 per- tion we’ve been expecting,” said Amazon’s fourth-quarter earn- came in 6 cents worse than the to improve the presentation of cent to $51.73 billion. Jeff Bezos, founder and chief ings fell 45.2 percent to $97 million, 3-cent deficit analysts projected, fashion on the Web sites. Amazon doesn’t break out executive officer of Amazon. or 21 cents a share, as revenues but investors took the miss in The company has also been how much of its sales come com, who this month was given rose 22 percent to $21.27 billion.

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