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STYLE WORLD VIEW New schools of style are emerging from the diff erent fashion capitals as young designers take cues from iconic names, cultural diff erences and artistic movements. Vogue travels the globe through their designs. By BRONWYN COSGRAVE

SCHOOL: THE NEW DOWNTOWN COOL INSPIRATION AMERICA Alexander Wang is frequently described as ALEXANDER WANG is the leader the “next Marc Jacobs” of a group of gifted young due to the designers’ American designers shared following of A/W ’12-13 producing bold, urban models and rock stars. womenswear. Both labels are based in artsy Soho, New York and also fl ourished Designer In February 2011, New York upon their launch of must- Alexander Wang have accessories. with his muse fashion critics wondered if Zoë Kravitz 28-year-old Alexander Wang could “fi ll the shoes” of Yohji PEERS Yamamoto as he opened his CREATURES OF fi rst boutique in the Soho THE WIND Chicago Art Institute space once occupied by the graduates Shane Gabier, Japanese master. But at the 38, and Chris Peters, 28, height of the recession, launched Creatures of Wang’s relaxed aesthetic the Wind in Windy City (which included T, his dif- Chicago in 2007. The label fusion line,) established off ers a quirky, feminine his retail outpost as a spin on downtown cool, fashion landmark. His with trademarks that rise has been meteoric— include punk-inspired at age 20, two years after striped sweaters, metallic silk and leather jackets and studying fashion at Par- well-cut trousers. A/W ’12-13 sons The New School for Design, Wang quit to set SIKI IM up a knitwear brand in German-born his apartment with New York backing from his sister. designer Siki Im, After the ready-to-wear brand he 34, studied at the launched in S/S ’07 became a critical Oxford School and commercial hit, he followed it up of Architecture. with accessories. Though he expanded Though he his palette beyond black, the collection produces has retained its urban look. The line is menswear, his deconstructed sold globally, but the jogging-inspired style is fl attering ‘sweattrousers’ and tanks—and stud- Shala Monroque to the female ded Rocco handbag—are a uniform for in a Siki Im form, as shown A/W ’12-13 downtown New York women as well as jacket on editor Shala

Wang’s muse, actress Zoë Kravitz. Monroque. > IMAGES GETTY WESTON�ARNOLD; KIM A/W ’12-13

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INSPIRATION GUCCI Altuzarra credits the discovery of ’s Gucci advertising when he was a teenager as a formative moment in motivating him to pursue fashion. PEERS WES GORDON Wes Gordon, 25, spent six months at Tom Ford’s London design studio and two summers apprenticing in ’s New York atelier. This experience—which Gordon balanced between semesters at London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design—is said to have honed the A/W ’12-13 A/W ’12-13 tailoring skills of the Atlanta-born designer, SCHOOL: who launched his TRANSATLANTIC eponymous New York label in 2010. Lena GLAMOUR Dunham—actor and AMERICA creator of television show Girls—showcased A/W ’12-13 JOSEPH ALTUZARRA, 28, is the his skill at New York’s 2012 Costume Institute Ball, where she best-known name from the crop of modelled an emerald-green cocktail up-and-coming Manhattan-based gown he made for her. womenswear designers whose work is defi ned by the Continental fl air of GIULIETTA their European heritage. A Florentine native, Sofi a Sizzi, 34, worked with Winner of the 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Gucci, Fund, -born Joseph Altuzarra’s A/W and prior to 2012-13 collection earned plaudits because launching her womenswear of the craftsmanship that translated its ex- brand Giulietta. Sizzi’s otic inspiration—Corto Maltese, an adven- runway looks include clothes crafted with vintage Italian techniques, turer created by Hugo Pratt for a series of satin and velvet shoes, and jewellery comics. Altuzarra presented parkas, silk fashioned by artisans. > cargo trousers, velvet jeans and fringed and fox-trimmed knitwear; all of which alluded to Maltese travelling the world and appreci- ating the beauty of its decorative treasures. Sophisticated, feminine luxury is the sig- nature of Altuzzara, who upon graduating A/W ’12-13 in art history from Philadelphia’s Swarthmore College in 2005, interned at Marc Jacobs, served as a design assistant, and worked with Nicolas Caito (New York’s “premiere pattern- maker”) and Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy. Weeks after his debut collection in 2009, former editor of , Carine Roit-

feld, appeared in one of his runway looks. IMAGES GETTY WESTON�ARNOLD; KIM A/W ’12-13

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Artist MIA at the 2012 Super Bowl INSPIRATION Fausto Puglisi consulted for the Milanese brand back in the ’90s, and his work is also infl uenced by the rock’n’roll-meets-Roman aesthetic Versace established as his trademark.

Amber Le Bon PEERS for Fausto Puglisi CHRISTOPHER A/W ’12-13 KANE Christopher Kane’s collection has consistently paid tribute to Versace with masterfully subtle touches. This Scottish- born 30-year-old turned down a full-time post at Versace when he emerged as the star fashion graduate from SCHOOL: Central Saint Martins HARD BAROQUE in 2005. Meanwhile, as Donatella Versace ITALY continued to champion Kane—comparing FAUSTO PUGLISI’s extrava- their close bond to gant creations put him at the what she once shared head of a pack of young design- with her brother—she ers fl ourishing in Milan, whose charged him with brash romanticism recalls the reinvigorating Versus, dazzling, fl amboyant beauty of the brand’s diff usion line A/W ’12-13 the late Gianni Versace. in 2009. The rebellious fl irtatiousness now “I’m obsessed with the Roman Em- infusing Versus merges Italian femininity and an East London edge. pire,” says the Milan-based Sicilian de- signer Fausto Puglisi, explaining the FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO gladiator-infl uenced leather dresses he Francesco Scognamiglio, 37, met made for Nicki Minaj and MIA to per- Donatella Versace upon graduating form in at the Super Bowl XLVI half- from the fashion programme at Naples time stage show. Although Puglisi, 36, College of Design in 1994, and he has a signature that’s much older, the spent fi ve years gold studs and fl irty pleats recalled Gi- working for the anni Versace’s early ’90s house. In 2000, fi nery. Over a decade later, Puglisi’s he launched his S/S 2012 collection was also inspired independent career with by Madonna (a muse to Versace), a couture prompting her costume designer Ari- collection anne Phillips to enlist him for the re- in Rome. A cent MDNA concert tour. Together, year later they created bandolier-inspired stud- he took on ded vests and ram-head masks for the Milan, where back-up dancers. For the opening of he continues Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan concept to show his store, Spiga2, Domenico Dolce and Ste- glamorous fano Gabbana encouraged Puglisi to line, which blends vampish launch a capsule womenswear collec- tailoring with a tion, and it continues to be sold there. Vogue Nippon’s couture feel. >

A/W ’12-13 IMAGES GETTY WESTON�ARNOLD; KIM Anna Dello Russo in a look from the designer 238 VOGUE INDIA OCTOBER ���� www.vogue.in VIEW

INSPIRATION DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Erdem was launched as a line driven by dresses—the mainstay of Diane von Furstenberg’s collections, on which Moralioglu worked for a year after graduating from London’s Royal College of Art and Design in 2000. PEERS MARY KATRANTZOU Mary Katrantzou, 29, became known as ‘Mary, Queen of Prints’ after debuting her Linda spring/summer 2010 Evangelista interior-design-themed in Erdem collection. It featured prints inspired by the “decorative treasures” amassed by fashion icons , Duchess Babe Paley and the Catherine in Erdem Duchess of Windsor— and demonstrated her talent for conceiving sculptural silken fi nery emblazoned with imaginative hyperrealist- A/W ’12-13 A/W ’12-13 style trompe l’oeil patterns. Motifs evoking an English garden maze, a manual typewriter SCHOOL: and even a man’s luxury sports watch, decorated corseted silhouettes and GRAPHIC REFINEMENT dramatic godet-style skirts this season. LONDON PETER ERDEM MORALIOGLU, 36, PILOTTO is at the forefront of London Peter Pilotto designers who have established and Christopher a demand for artistic prints. De Vos—the 20-something Though sharply cut and modern, design duo the ladylike refi nement of Morali- behind Peter oglu’s work sets him apart from Pilotto—classify the patterns they the avant-garde designers that jointly mastermind dominate London. Standout pieces as “otherworldly”. in Erdem’s collections transcend The guiding seasons, and those featuring luxu- inspirational force riant embroidery are often com- for this inventive pared to couture. pair, who launched Moralioglu’s prints are digitally their brand in rendered, but his garments have 2008 (eight years an artisanal quality because of after meeting at A/W ’12-13 A/W ’12-13 their superlative textiles. Duchess Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Catherine, US Vogue’s Anna Win- Arts), is a “scientifi c view on nature”. tour, , Keira They interpret this with the help Knightley and Samantha Camer- A/W ’12-13 of a ‘print generator’—a computer on have all been spotted in Morali- program that renders their patterns in

oglu’s dresses this year. a kaleidoscopic manner. > IMAGES GETTY WESTON�ARNOLD; KIM

240 VOGUE INDIA OCTOBER ���� www.vogue.in VIEW A/W ’12-13 INSPIRATION YSL’S RIVE GAUCHE This pioneering label was launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 to off er a younger clientele an aff ordable alternative to . The line derived its name from the trendy Left Bank, St Germain-des-Prés location of its original boutique. A.P.C.’s headquarters are nearby. PEERS CARVEN Former Inès de la Fressange demonstrated the relaxed cool of Carven when she paired a black gown A/W ’12-13 with Roger Vivier fl at sandals at the 2011 Cannes Film Festival. Though SCHOOL: her look paid tribute to the spirit of YOUNG LUXE Carven Mallet—who was renowned for crafting evening gowns PARIS from humble materials like cotton in 1945—the 32-year- VANESSA SEWARD for A.P.C. old Guillaume Henry, who leads a movement that focuses on honed his skills working at making fashion durable and Givenchy, eschews Carven’s allowing sophisticated designs to archives for inspiration to remain in your wardrobe even concentrate on creating after the trend is over. wearable modern pieces. Henry looked to Collaborations involving a Hieronymus Bosch’s The designer and an estab- Garden Of Earthly Delights to conceive the bohemian lished brand customarily print that dominates his feature must-have items. current line. The trouble is, these A/W ’12-13 trend-driven pieces are LIMI FEU usually ‘in’ for only a season. The womanly direction However, 40-year-old Vanessa of Limi Feu’s line has Seward—former creative director of established her identity. red-carpet label Azzaro—is aiming to The 36-year-old daughter create investment pieces for A.P.C of Yohji Yamamoto worked that lend a luxe sensibility to the la- with him as a pattern-maker and also bel’s minimalism. Every item could designed Y’s Bis Limi, his diff usion line. For about a decade after launching her work as a staple. “It’s another take on eponymous brand in 2000, Feu (who luxury,” explains Seward. Catherine changed her surname after “stumbling” Deneuve—Saint Laurent’s muse—or- upon it in a dictionary) was defi ned dered Vanessa Seward for A.P.C. when by the androgynous Yohji Yamamoto it debuted. sensibility and The starting point in conceiving the tailoring. But A/W line was her own wardrobe, which mix- ’12-13 proved to es special items like Yves Saint Lau- be a breakthrough rent vintage with denim. Then, Se- collection. She ward set out to create modern classics experimented that she could similarly mix and with classics and produced a fresh match. Her autumn/winter 2012-13 take on the LBD (a A/W ’12-13 collection—which includes hot pants, a signature) collarless blouse and minidresses—is and peasant cut from luxurious textiles such as tailoring (a mainstay A/W ’12-13 lamé in classic gold and shimmery blue of Yves Saint

(colours that Seward handpicked). Laurent). > CORBIS IMAGES; GETTY WESTON�ARNOLD; KIM

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SCHOOL: SLAVIC FINERY INSPIRATION RUSSIA PARIS COUTURE Sergeenko’s couture line brings to ULYANA SERGEENKO and mind those launched by socialites her fellow Muscovites skilfully like and the integrate the dazzle of Old sartorial excellence of 1920s Paris. Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna— Hollywood with the rich A/W ’12-13 fi rst cousin of Tsar Nicholas II—then history of Russia to create a produced embroidered garments for unique aesthetic. Coco Chanel’s fabled 1922 Russian Collection. Thanks to the experience, A street style favourite, Ulyana she established her own thriving Paris Sergeenko, 32, wife of a Rus- atelier, which specialised sian billionaire, debuted her in folkloric couture fi rst collection during Paris embellishment. couture week with headlining. The PEER line-up referenced Travis VIKA GAZINSKAYA Banton costumes for Mar- Vika Gazinskaya, 30, lene Dietrich in 1934’s The is always photographed Scarlet Empress, in which fl aunting her label at the shows. Her day dresses she played Catherine the and ball gowns feature a Great. Looks included modern take on the fi t- fl oor-sweeping cloaks and and-fl are silhouette that jackets inspired by Rus- Christian made a sian military tailoring, mainstay of couture when gowns in Russian red and he innovated it as the A/W ’12-13 black, as well as a long, New Look in 1947. fl owing mink skirt. A/W ’12-13 Vika Gazinskaya

SCHOOL: INSPIRATION NEW�ERA ANTWERP SIX “Always black, always sexy,” Vaccarello DECONSTRUCTION has said of his sartorial direction. BELGIUM With an all-new sensuality, his work interprets the deconstructed tailoring ANTHONY VACCARELLO the Antwerp Six innovated in the 1980s. epitomises the reinvention of These graduates of Antwerp’s Royal the Antwerp Six’s sculptural Academy of Fine Arts—including Ann style being undertaken by Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Walter Van Beirendonck—hailed Antwerp’s new designers. from the Flanders capital and made their mark by presenting stark, strikingly Anthony Vaccarello, 31, rose to A/W ’12-13 tailored collections that challenged the prominence after his 2006 grad- exuberance of 1980s fashion. uate fashion collection from Brussels’ La Cambre design

PEER IMAGES GETTY WESTON�ARNOLD; KIM school earned the Grand Prix LENA LUMELSKY de la Mode at the French Rivi- This Royal Academy of era’s Hyères Festival. Set to work by Fine Arts graduate, 37, at for two years, he hails from the Ukraine launched his own line in 2008 and made and launched her label a splash initially with slim-fi t little black in 2009 with a collection dresses. Standout items in this collection inspired by fi lm noir. included minis and evening columns— Lena Lumelsky’s style is futuristic, although her dresses and jumpsuits—constructed A/W ’12-13 line in glossy A/W ’12-13 from fabric panels. Almost every piece A/W ’12-13 leather recalls ’80s featured a slashed silhouette. deconstruction. ■

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