Timeless style and elegance

runway report the global style icon the brands, the looks, with best-friend appeal the trends. launches her shoe collection in dubai. the time is now THE BEST NEW WATCHES OF 2015. beauty notes illamasqua, chloÉ, QAR 40 US 10 sisley & more. KWD 3.2 OMR 4 AED 40 BHD 4 INSIDE page 1 FRONT AD COVER DG_LAFEMME_UAE_2.indd 1 14/11/14 12:11 www.etro.com

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21 EDITOR’S PICK February’s wish-list.

22 AGENDA What’s new for the start of 2015?

la mode 28 fashion agenda The new trends and accessories edit for 2015.

32 Run way insider Behind-the-scenes and on the front row with fashion’s leading brands.

38 COver story: sarah jessica parker She’s the global style icon with best- friend appeal. La Femme meets SJP as she debuts her new shoe collection in Dubai.

50 Theatre of desire Step behind the velvet rope and into a fantasy of exclusivity.

64 Run way report Spring into the season with La Femme’s edit of key brands.

80 COllected thoughts Mainline and diffusion collections express a brand’s identity in different ways, writes Rebecca Stevens.

86 local talent Rami Al Ali’s couture creations are based right here in UAE.

90 white out Pale is beautiful, as these accessories show. 36 february 2015 contents

les ornements 108 jewellery agenda High jewellery and fine watches.

110 ’s army-luxe The J12-G.10 has military precision.

112 PERfect proposal What every woman really wants is a Harry Winston ring.

114 The novelty of time We reveal highlights from SIHH, the Geneva watch fair that is a main event for the world of luxury timepieces.

124 fREE SPIRITED Thierry Vasseur of Dinh Van introduces an exceptional jeweller.

les iNSPIRATEURS

132 Alice and olivia Stacey Bendet’s brand of offbeat style has become a fast favourite of fashion’s insiders.

140 All around mulberry Can a new creative director save the troubled British heritage brand? 132 february 2015 OM contents MOD. 4283B – versace.c

166 les icones 148 faye dearest Why La Femme is in love with the rebellious style of Faye Dunaway.

la beauté 166 beauty agenda A fresh new beauty beckons.

168 STIll lives Unwrap these decadent luxuries.

174 behind the mask Theatrical beauty brand Illamasqua offers a quirky take on cosmetics.

178 The science of sisley Facts and figures with the heritage- laden beauty brand.

182 AN enduring love Chloé’s fragrance gets back together with a familiar face.

savoir vivre 188 TRAvel agenda Must-visit highlights for 2015.

190 HOTEL La Femme takes a peek inside the stylish hotel with a designer label.

200 feeling a little flat? Intepreting how fashion responds to the world around it. editor’s note

Living in dubai I sometimes imagine that I am cut off from the rest of the world in some strange, barely tangible way. It’s a refrain that I hear echoed amongst my friends and colleagues, who frequently refer to a mysterious ‘bubble’ in which we all purpotedly reside. But, as I look forward to what this year will bring, and think how previous years have been filled with incredible experiences and events, I have to ask myself, is that really the case? The city has changed so much in the 10 years that I have lived here, and the rate at which its stylish inhabitants and luxury boutiques keep apace with fashion capitals such as New York, London, and has grown incrementally closer. That was certainly the comment from some of the global brand representatives that I met at a recent press preview, where industrial decor and rails of the latest clothes from brands such as , Versace and Coach could have been a scene from any of the hippest style cities. Fashion reflects, rather than drives, the zeitgeist, and if the array of big brands putting Dubai firmly in their sights is anything to go by, the city is at the centre, not the outskirts, of what’s happening. Our stunning cover star, Sarah Jessica Parker, who I interviewed recently (see page 38) chose Dubai for the global launch of her new footwear brand, the SJP Collection. Back in May 2014, a truly spectacular carnival of high fashion descended in the form of Chanel’s global reveal for Cruise 2015, and in between we’ve had everyone from Charlotte Olympia to Matthew Williamson to Isabel Marant coming here to raise their brand’s profile among their all-important Middle Eastern customers. It all confirms my feeling that the city is an exciting place to be right now, and that not only has Dubai ‘caught up’ with the fashion calendars of Europe and America, but is carving a powerful niche for itself as a trend-forward capital in its own right. With local talent such as our own Rami Al Ali (page 86) frequently dressing Hollywood’s A-list, and with even Chanel’s boss Bruno Pavlovsky declaring Dubai a “ key hub for fashion business”, who am I to argue?

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La Femme is published 12 times a year by Pinpoint Media Group and printed in Dubai by Raidy Printing Press. All rights reserved. Copyright 2014 by Pinpoint Media Group. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices and credits are accurate at time of going to press but are subject to change. Opinions expressed in La Femme are solely those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher and its editors. Editorial enquiries should be directed to the editor via email (jola.chudy@pinpointmediagroup. com). While every reasonable care will be undertaken by the editor, La Femme cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. All unsolicited materials will not be returned unless accompanied by sufficient payment for return postage. ediToR’s piCk LICENSE NUMBER 3-430307 VCC 1. ‘so pretty’ shoe, Dhs5,290, . 2. ‘Meteoerites’ Light-Revealing Powder, Dhs275, Guerlain. 3. Earrings, Dhs600 by Helene Zubeldia at Bloomingdale’s. 4. Clutch, Dhs5,250 by Nathalia Trad at Bloomingdale’s. AGENDAA FABULOUS, flirty SELECTION OF NEW LOOKS FOR february, chosen BY SURENA CHANDÉ Hey, Sugar! Set to be this season’s ‘it’ bag, Lanvin’s ‘Sugar’ clutch is already making the rounds with celebrities including . Alber Elbaz’s creation is functional yet chic, made from precious leathers, suede and calfskin with edgy chain-strap and stud details. www.lanvin.com

flirty feet Flats may be big news for 2015, but as this accessory shows, the feminine, flirty heel is never far out of style. www.fendi.com

dazzle in Dubai new boutique There is no shortage of luxury Chopard has opened a boutique jewellery brands in the UAE, but at the new Four Seasons Hotel we’re pleased to announce that in Dubai, showcasing the high Van Eyck has finally made its way jewellery collections created to Dubai along with its exquisite by Caroline Scheufele. Both ‘Birds of Papua’ collection. the hotel and the boutique www.vaneyck-jewelry.com are well worth a visit. stepping up www.chopard.com Under creative director Massimiliano Giornetti, Ferragamo is elegant yet classical, with a ready-to-wear palette of Colourful neutrals puncutated by splashes of sophisticated orange, creation blue and green. Watch out for a reimagining of its classic Chanel knows how to have ‘Rainbow Shoe’ first created for Judy Garland in the 1940s, a fun with accessories, from chunky platform sandal with fat, padded layers and straps. shopping basket bags www.ferragamo.com and milk carton clutches to petrol can handbags, and this playful CC lock bag is no exception. www.chanel.com spring-clean the senses

ROMANCE IN THE AIR Kick-start a healthier lifestyle this year, with a special programme at it is a one-of-a-kind place in which to begin your journey of renewal Known for its unusual jewellery in 18-carat Talise Spa. The exclusive four-week Spring Cleanse Retreat takes place and rejuvenation. The Spring Cleanse Retreat includes two wellness gold and diamonds, Marli has recently made its way from New York to Dubai. The brand in February and March and is supervised by the spa’s Medical Director scans, a five day juice plan, two body treatments, a skin analysis, eight has landed in Bloomingdale’s, and you can find Dr. Elisabeth Makk, in conjunction with Detox Delight. An award- infrared sauna sessions, nine yoga sessions. It begins on February 2 rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces like winning destination spa built in a palatial, Arabian style, at its heart and runs for four weeks, priced at Dhs3,990. this gorgeous diamond-embellished ring with studs and circles. Dhs14,700, Bloomingdale’s. is a spectacular Hammam room resplendant in marble and mosiacs; Talise Spa, Slimming Ceremony from Dhs719, 04 453 0456 www.marlinyc.com 23 AGENDA 24 la femme la eye up me www.luluguinness.com style statement. irreverent an accessories give that disco ball and headphone- inspired clutches find also will you where collection, new fun Guinness’ Lulu of part is bag The Dhs380. just for yours it’s know to pleased be you’ll tote, doll-faced this eyeon your got you’ve If www.coach.com simple ensemble. a up livening for perfect are which Coach bangles, chunky neon shades like these vibrant spring to welcome bright, we’re ready hues, winter revoir Au neon A nod to Dhs14,040, www.ethan-k.com teal. elegant in here pictured detailing, skin clutch with intricate snake-clasp crocodile stunning this as such exclusive, and different something want who those have become wardrobe must-haves for clutches and bags skin K’s exotic Ethan S u it nap p Dhs8,600, www.louisvuitton.com gold. brushed and panelling out cut- with season this attention of centre the be to sure are beauties teal eye-catching These heels. sci-fi SS15 with stripes, bold shades and for up it mixed has Vuitton Louis S pace - age spring

GETTY IMAGES clothes and accessories. myriad on as well as back, bag that Giannini also brought handbags including the Jackie on used was This Monaco. of Grace Princess for designed Flora scarf print, originally ’s archives, including the reinventing classics from Giannini was known for reign nine-year her During remained until January 2015. Creative Director Giannini the end of December, while at down stood Marco di CEO shocked the fashion world. has that amove in out, are Marco and Frida Giannini di Patrizio team and-wife powercouple. Husband- famous most its of departure Gucci has announced the at gu at departures CC considering the level of remarkable accomplishment, a is This adecade. to close for Gucci of director creative sole the been has She Frida... thank to like Iwould today. bringing Gucci where it is key to were charisma and His vision, passion, dedication Patrizio. with working enjoyed truly “I said, Gucci, own who chairman and CEO of , François-Henri Pinault, and Leather on Goods. Couture Luxury for CEO President and Kering Group’s previously ’s Bizzarri, Marco of form the in announced been has Marco di for a replacement grabs, for up still is job top Though the coveted creative i always instilled in her work.” her in instilled always has she that passion the and achievements, creativity her for grateful truly I am time. of period along such during brand aglobal such responsibility related to la femme la

GUCCI AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 GUCCI SPRING/SUMMER 2015 GUCCI SPRING/SUMMER 2008 25 luxe, allure, style la mode

26 Backstage at Lanvin's spring/ summer 2015 show, the look is typically Lanvin, as Alber Elbaz offers a vision of femininity for every woman. 28 la femme la ensemble, too. touch of the trend to your perfect for adding just a handbags or shoes are clutches, as such accessories but clothing, channelled fabrics. fabrics. sheer with soft, hue the approached Burberry while look, inspired both opted for amilitary- Chanel; Jacobs and centre stage at Marc taking accessories and jackets with influence featured aheavy navy and florals, SS15 runways images of pastels, brights collections conjure often Though spring/summer to A nod nod CLUTCH, LOUIS LOUIS CLUTCH, N Dhs97,500

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Disco er &Shop Interiors Luxury Disco er Online WWW.LUXDECO.COM 30 la femme la embroidered and bejewelled beauties. embroidered and Louboutin went all out with embellished, Christian and Chanel Gabbana, & Dolce E xoti

SAINT LAURENT C I nfluen KA, KA, PAULE HEELS, Dhs1,600 ALICE AND OLIVIA C e HA N FERRAGAMO, FERRAGAMO, DBAG, SALVATORE SALVATORE DBAG, Dhs11,000

LOUIS VUITTON O & GABBA HA N REQUEST N DBAG, DOLCE DOLCE DBAG, trend-forward look. fresh, for a tones neutral Pair statement items with are here to stay this season at —stripes Vertical, horizontal as — both or S focus N A, PRICE PRICE A, tripes on : LOUBOUTI HEELS, CHRISTIA HEELS, N ,

Dhs9,390 . N

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Louis Vuitton Nicholas Ghesqueire’s second collection for the luxury fashion powerhouse elegantly picked up on his debut, taking inspiration from the 1970s, but also from futuristic elements, a combination that gave a completely new vision for the . Narrow silhouettes, woven embroideries, mini dresses paired with an architectural heel, and of course leather, were among the many highlights at the show, which took place at the recently opened Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris.

32 la femme la femme 33 In one of the last collections by the designer before his death, many of Oscar de la Renta’s signature themes are apparent: colourful florals, a sense of the tropics, and achingly beautiful gowns. and Daria Strokous led a parade of models wearing modern, bright pastels and youthful gingham prints, sure to become collectible, covetable items this season.

34 la femme la femme 35 Chanel The in Paris was the setting for ’s spring vision of the Chanel woman: ‘flirty and intellectual’, she embraces the brand’s iconic tweeds, crepes and cottons, in a whirlwind of pink, green, violet and blends of blue, along with the maison’s iconic palette of black, white and navy.

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In her shoes Her screen character’s love for shoes made Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy Choo household names, so it’s fitting that Sarah Jessica Parker has launched her own collection. Jola Chudy meets the style icon as she debuts the SJP Collection in Dubai.

What do you wear to interview a bona-fide style icon? That’s the question that I ask myself, frantically flinging - and summarily discarding as hopelessly inadequate - most of my wardrobe the evening before meeting actress, producer and latterly footwear entrepreneur, Sarah Jessica Parker. In the end I decide on a slim-fitting black suit (safe) and, in what I tell myself is a cleverly concocted nod to her New York style heritage, a pair of vertiginous studded black leather DKNY platforms. My ensemble is of course, completely irrelevant, and pales into insignificance when we

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finally meet in Dubai’s Address Hotel She has a range of successful fragrances, one sunny December morning. Petite has had eye-wateringly well-rewarded and vivacious, she is glamorous in that contracts for Gap and Garnier (as well “Oh, this old thing?” way that sets the as an ill-fated stint as creative head of authentically stylish apart from the rest Heritage). Her most famous role, of us. She looks fabulous and seems as Carrie Bradshaw, the gal-about-town delighted to be in Dubai for a few days of and best friend we’d all love to have, adds intensive, shoe-focused publicity. to her reputation as a down-to-earth icon. While I have been waiting my turn, her “Hello, please… come in!” she beams, Dubai PR team hovers, predictably, yet suddenly appearing at the door and genuinely effusive about what a delight she welcoming us to a private side room. is to work with. She flashes a full-watt smile as I walk A classically trained dancer, theatre in followed by La Femme’s photographer actor, TV and film star, Parker’s newest and his assistant. One of America’s 40 turn, as head of her own shoe brand, is not most highly paid actresses, with a career Inspired by shoes her first foray into the fashion industry. spanning five decades, the Sarah from the 1970s, such as those by Charles Jourdan, the SJP Collection has been created by Sarah Jessica Parker and George Malkemus.

la femme 41 Cover story

Jessica Parker show is on flawless, fabulous form. She offers water, indicates places to sit, and drops perfectly into her armchair, a colourful bag flung casually behind her. Parker is petite, with unusual pale aqua eyes, and the coiled grace of a professionally trained dancer. She’s wearing her own shoes – of course – a ‘Tempest’ model in emerald, and a dress by cheerfully affordable designer Tracy Reese, topped with an embroidered pink shawl by Toujouri, a local Dubai brand. It’s a nice touch on her part, and over the coming days, those following her visit to UAE on social media will see euphoric hash-tagging by a selection of local designers that she has graced with her formidable star-power. The SJP Collection, she tells me, is a project with her long-time friend, George Malkemus III. “George and I had known each other for a number of years… through the other hat that he wears [Malkemus is the CEO of Manolo Blahnik],” she says. “I had frequently been asked, over the past five or 10 years, to do a shoe collection. And I was very flattered by the offers from wonderful, experienced people in the footwear business. But I was having trouble saying ‘yes’ and I couldn’t figure out why, and what I realised is that they didn’t want me to make the shoe that I wanted to make. I think what they wanted was a mass collection. And I felt I could only get behind shoes that I would genuinely love to wear myself.” It’s hard not to think of her most famous character’s predilection for shoes as she warms to her theme, because there is something a bit ‘Carrie’ about the way Parker gets enthusiastic about shoes. Parker turned down the offers and the idea continued to percolate in the background, until one day around two years ago, she phoned up her good friend Malkemus on a whim. “I asked him ‘Would you like to do a shoe collection with me?’ and he said “Be at my office tomorrow morning.’” The success of the SJP Collection – it launched in the United States at the

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“I came to New York in the 1970s. I would stare in the windows of Charles Jourdan, Walter Steiger, Maud Frizon and In creating The SJP Collection, Parker is Bennis Edwards. Those were incredibly adamant that only shoes she herself would be delighted influential, vivid memories and those to wear would form part of her eponymous were the shoes I wanted to recall.” footwear brand. sarah jessica parker

beginning of 2014 – has perhaps not been so surprising given the prominent, with corals, teals and mints as neutrals, rather than undeniable star-power of Parker. Teamed with Malkemus’ enormous accent hues; there are quirky combinations such as navy and mocha. influence in luxury footwear, the only question is why it didn’t “It is how I feel about colour and I think that’s what women want, happen sooner. But, once they started talking, Malkemus and Parker and at this price point [they start from Dhs1,200 in Dubai], it’s still discovered they shared an affinity for the shoes of the 1970s. a bit of a new idea. We tell women: ‘look, if you wear a purple shoe to “I had a very strong point of view about what I wanted to the office you’re every bit as capable as if you wear a black shoe to the accomplish,” she says, speaking quickly and clearly. “I sat in his office office. It doesn’t change your brain!’” and told him how I came to New York in the latter part of the 1970s, The shoes are classic and aim to be timeless, which can be quite and I would stare in the windows of places such as Charles Jourdan, hard to get right when you also want to be fashionable. Walter Steiger, Maud Frizon and Bennis Edwards on Madison. Parker was famously told by her doctor that, following years of Those were incredibly influential, vivid memories and those were the walking in high heels, the bones in her feet were doing things they shoes I wanted to recall and revisit. If you looked at the shoes of that really weren’t supposed to. Dare I ask, are the shoes designed to be time, though the proportions have changed over time, you would be wearable as well as beautiful? completely compelled to wear them.” “We worked hard on the comfort,” she says. “The padding is a huge The pair found a third generation shoemaker in Italy in Tuscany, part of what makes a shoe comfortable; no shoe is comfortable for eight agreed a price point “we knew it wasn’t the most affordable shoe but or 12 hours – you’re a fool if you don’t kick heels off under the table, in we knew it wasn’t outrageous” and SJP Collection took its first steps. my opinion. But I wear my own shoes in real life, without any coercion!” The collection’s style reflects their shared vision: The shoes The signature detail of every SJP Collection shoe is a length of are single soled, “We won’t dabble with platforms” and colour is grosgrain ribbon hemmed on the heel – another nod to nostalgia,

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Sarah Jessica Parker speaks to her audience in Dubai. Her visit in December 2014 marked the international launch of the SJP Collection.

this time of Parker’s childhood, when she would frequently have “It’s a laundry list! I learned about minimums, about mark-ups… grosgrain ribbons tied in her hair by her mother. I learned so much...” Then, refreshingly for such an interview, she I ask her if she feels that the little girl who came to New York to admits that it hasn’t all been plain sailing, and tells me that there were “there are women pursue her dream has come full circle. “Gee. I hadn’t thought of it some teething issues with the first collection; corrections had to be that way,” she says. “It’s certainly meaningful. I recognise that there made to some of the shoes. “If you get defensive about constructive who have been was a young girl with a lot of dreams staring longingly into a window thoughts then you shouldn’t be in the business. We had a sizing issue at things that were inaccessible and seemed really other-worldly. with one of the shoes, and there was a gap, which we always knew influential, There’s a wonderful connection to that time.” about, which we built into another shoe, but women in the States didn’t Inspiration for the design of the shoes comes from both her care for the gap.” She stops for a split second and smiles triumphantly. whether I have personal life and her career, she says, adding: “But I didn’t name “They minded the gap! For those of us building that shoe, it didn’t sell known them any shoes after my children, as it’s considered bad luck. But there the way I imagined, but you cant convince somebody that they’re wrong, are women who have been influential, whether I have known them it’s how they feel in that item, and who am I to argue differently?” personally or not, personally or not, and women who were important to me, after Judging by the queues of fans that have waited to meet her and buy whom I have named shoes. The ‘Tanny’ is named for Tanaquil a pair of SJP Collection shoes at Bloomingdale’s and Harvey Nichols and women who Le Clercq, one of the great ballet dancers. ‘Fawn’ is a name I like in Dubai (where the shoes are available exclusively) any blips have were important to because it’s what they used to call the single girls at the Barbizon been safely ironed out, and any that may remain, one might imagine Hotel in New York. ‘Lady’? I just always loved the name… The will be received with more than a fair share of forgiveness. Because me, after whom ‘Carrie’… is obvious!” Parker is a style icon with a lot of goodwill towards her – that’s partly I ask her about the transition from shoe-wearing icon to going because she’s just so nice, but also because her style seems relatable, I have named behind the scenes into the industry. What did she learn during the attainable even. It’s an eclectic mix: you can see photographs of Parker shoes.” design and production process? at a red-carpet event in a black hat by royal milliner , - sarah jessica parker

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Though Parker was experimental in her own style prior to her stint on Sex and The City, it is undoubtedly that TV show, and the influence of its costume designer Patricia Field, who SJP in DXB: The propelled Parker to ‘style icon’ status. actress-turned- designer signs shoes from her new collection in Dubai.

or a gown by but also striding down a New York committed suicide in March 2014] are heroic to me. I can’t imagine avenue, coffee cup in hand, in tracksuit bottoms and trainers, or an that at this point, not until my life changes.” artfully mis-matched patterned skirt and top. Though Parker was Instead, a play and a film are on the cards, with several projects on experimental in her own style prior to her stint on Sex and The City, the go in tandem with the SJP collections for the upcoming seasons, (“I have always dressed to please myself”) it is undoubtedly that TV which must all be designed and marketed and sold. show, and the influence of its costume designer Patricia Field, who Though her Dubai team have been adamant that Parker doesn’t propelled Parker to ‘style icon status’. ‘do’ posing for photographs, she graciously smiles at our hand- “Field was the first person who convinced me that there shouldn’t outstretched tablet phone, and beams at La Femme’s photographer as be rules. I never said no to her – not once. We would try everything, he entreats her to look directly at his lens. “That’s a very kind light, sometimes, just so that we could take a Polaroid because it was so thank you sir,” she says, handing over signed cards. “You may not frickin’ funny. The fittings for my character were four or five hours even want these.” Outside, her make-up artist and hairdresser hover long, following a full day of filming and could go on until 2am… and I nearby, in case her interview has given cause for a fresh application of didn’t care, because I learned so much from her.” powder, or a re-brushing of her wavy tresses. Shoes are displayed in A television style icon-turned-shoe designer - it might seem glass cabinets; a cupcake is presented to departing media, along with obvious that the next stage would be clothes, but when I ask her if the generous gift of a pair of shoes. She follows us out, mingling with another ready-to-wear or couture collection [she launched affordable her team, chatting, discussing the schedule for the rest of her time in clothing line ‘Bitten’ in 2006] is on the cards, she pauses. “I couldn’t Dubai. Her seminal on-screen persona may have been famous for be an actor and do ready-to-wear. It’s a relentless revolving door losing the odd shoe in various escapades, but for SJP Collection’s chief of anxiety; my friends that do it… [she pauses for quite a while, and protagonist, telling the world about her beautiful shoes is a fabulously I wonder if she is thinking of her close friend L’Wren Scott, who well-choreographed dance.

48 la femme 49 Coat, Dhs17,900,Maxmara. Dress, Dhs2,440, Extart & Panno at Sauce. Shoes, Dhs3,050, Jimmy Choo.

midnight fantasy a palette of night's deep hues is lit up with the shimmering light of golden glamour

photography: Oliver Doran // Fashion Stylist: Stuart Robertson // HAIR & Make-Up: Katie Cousins assisted by Lauren Barker // models: Laura @ Lush // Special thanks to THE ACT DUBAI at Shangri-La hotel, Dubai. (www.theactdubai.com)

50 la femme la femme 51 Dress (price on request), Amato Haute Couture.

52 Top, Dhs1,615, TIBI at Symphony. Skirt, Dhs3,150, A.Knackfuss at Sauce. Bag, Dhs6,345, Marchesa at Symphony.

la femme 53 Dress, Dhs2,320, at Sauce. Headress, Dhs3,410, Jennifer Behr at Symphony.

54 la femme la femme 55 Dress, Alberta Feretti Jacket, Dhs7,090,Viktor at Symphony. & Rolf. Top, Dhs7,115 and trousers, Symphony. Shoes, Dhs3,050, Jimmy Choo.

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56 la femme Dress, Dhs27,550, Yves Saint Laurent.

58 la femme la femme 59 Chainmail turban (price on request), Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. Fur jacket, Dhs3,160, Mal. Ring, Dhs890, Sophie, both from Sauce.

61 Dress, Dhs3,105, Tadashi Shoji at Bloomingdale's.

60 la femme la femme 61 62 Dress, Dhs15,185, Temperley.

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/ 5 S 1 By Jola Chudy U 0 M 2 M E R R E M 2 M 0 U 1 /S 5 G RIN SPR SP ING /SUMMER 2015

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Burberry ‘The Birds and the Bees’ was the colourful, emblematic theme of British fashion house Burberry, where the flora and fauna of an idealised British summer played out in a rainbow of textures and patterns. Printed honey gabardine, silk and suede, wing-pleat tulle and butterfly-printed satin highlights infused the runway as Burberry’s icons du jour, Kate Moss and took centre stage on the front row. The iconic Burberry check was revisited in a sun-drenched colour, while trench coats and wasp-waist denim jackets gloriously reimagined in a riot of print gave the house’s signature a bold new interpretation for the new season. Also seen this season, the new Burberry Bee Bag, sure to become a must- have for the summer. www.burberry.com

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Dsquared2 Dsquared2 turned up the volume on shape, form and colour this season, with a collection that is a riot of bright prints, summery frills, and contrasting silhouettes From slouchy trousers to feminine-yet- boyish shorts, there are certainly nods towards masculine tailoring here, albeit with an injection of sculptural forms that curve gently around the body and lend a feminine air. The inclusion of silken fabrics, billowing floor-length skirts and Dolce & all-over beadwork, combined with hooded sweatshirts and crop-tops, defines the brand’s couture-meets-sporty sensibility Gabbana for this season. Flamenco-fuelled frills and thrills infused www.dsquared2.com the Italian duo’s new collection, with a riot of bold reds and dramatic blacks that evoked the sartorial language of Spain. Sicily’s heritage has provided Domenico and Stefano with inspiration for several years now, and this collection is no different, looking at the period between 1516 and 1713 when Sicily was ruled by Spain; that country’s archetypes are reimagined to fabulous, fashion-defining effect. With its signature visual drama, the D&G powerhouse presented vivid embroidery on bolero jackets, fringes on shawls and everywhere the riotous pattern of the polka dot in a palette of crimson, white and black. Gilded, excessive and bejewelled, the matador madams and flamenco queens of D&G offer a matchless vision for spring/ summer.

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Fendi How does Karl Lagerfeld manage it? Not content with masterminding the creative offerings for Chanel and being the powerhouse behind his eponymous brand, he also finds the time to design Fendi’s collections, to a standard that many who might have that role full time would struggle to match. Under his aegeis, we have Fendi’s orchid-infused collection: the tropical motif recurred throughout, embroidered into dress fabrics or laser-cut in leather. Inspired in part by the Palazzo della Civilta (the new Fendi headquarters in Rome), dresses with architectural elements and engineered silhouettes were softened with the Salvatore inclusion of the floral element, an interesting counterpoint to the more rigid structures. “The Palazzo... inspired us and will be a source Fer ragamo of inspiration for the next 15 years. It is a place Elements of iconic craftsmanship formed a representing a hymn to the work and it will large part of the collection by Massimiliano be filled with work,” said Silvia Fendi of the Giornetti. Textures such as cuts, frays and brand’s new headquarters. woven fabrics combined with meticulous tailoring offered up an elegant exploration of surface textures and shapes. Laid-back Italian style or ‘Sprezzatura’ is at the heart of Ferragamo’s philosophy and this was seen in flowing silhouettes, a sophisticated palette and oh-so-beautiful leather accessories. Pouch coats and short capes fastened with leather belts are crafted from structural woven fabrics, while halternecks and voluminous trousers show subtle flashes of skin. The colours of murano glassware infuse the collection, with colours punctuated with sudden bright flecks and metal veins that underscore a metamorphic quality. www.ferragamo.com

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Lanvin Alber Elbaz’s vision of femininity, and his admiration of women, is unmistakable, and this ‘so Lanvin’ collection offers a little bit for every woman, from long, flowing shapes to cinched-in, highly structured garments. Celebrating its 125th anniversary, there were party dresses aplenty, as well as metallic fabrics in an array of tunics, gowns and frocks. Elsewhere, the signature statement jewellery that accentuates his designs was evident, with large necklaces and ornate, bejewelled pieces lending their own sparkling touch of drama. www.lanvin.com Loewe Debuting at Loewe, JW Anderson’s vision for the brand was a symphony of flowing fabrics and textures. Leather and soft suede played a large part, with jagged pleats, torn edges, rib knits and even precious crocodile skin bringing a new vocabulary to the brand. It’s a departure for the company, but one that aficionados of Anderson will doubtless recognise as part of the designer’s androgynous language. Relaxed and modern, the loose-fitting clothes made for an organic, comfortable feel, with cottons, leather and pared-back detailing. www.loewe.com

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Nina Ricci In 1946, Nina Ricci made scale models of couture dresses to promote French Fashion during the post-war period. The “Theatre de la Mode”, as it was known, was a means for French fashion houses to work around the restrictions of the time and inject couture with a new energy. This ‘make do and mend’ approach was the starting point for artistic director Peter Copping, who says of his final collection for the house (he is the new artistic director at Oscar de la Renta) “Images of war-torn Paris led me to think about how Parisiennes had to be resourceful with their Marc wardrobe.” In this spirit, lean silhouettes, re-proportioned shirts and double faced fabrics appear, though the finished effect is Jacobs far from rationed in terms of its luxurious “I quite like the idea of how things are appeal. Instead, the tailoring is precise, perceived, how people look at things and leaving nothing extra or uneccessary, while people’s interpretation of them, in and out of the colours: bright reds, saffron and yellows context,” said Marc Jacobs of his inspiration are tempered by white, pink and camel. this season, and the designer expanded on www.ninaricci.com this theme by taking the familiar colours and motifs of military attire - a frequently visited theme among designers - and reinterpreting it to dramatic, and surprising effect. Utilitarian clothing was the starting point, and a neutral colour palette the departure point for wool gabardine dresses belted at the waist, wide-leg pants with fitted, classic coats, and belted cargo pants with cropped jackets. Decorative elements such as guipure embroidery, flower dot embroidered silk and cut-out details accented the collection, turning the utilitarian into the feminine. www.marcjacobs.com

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Saint Stella Laurent A glamour-soaked vision of the late 1970s was McCartney this season’s delectable offering from Hedi A gentler, more feminine approach to Slimane. Vertigious platforms, short skirts elegance defines much of McCartney’s and short jackets made appearances, with output and this collection offers women inspiration for this season stemming from a practical, pretty array of garments with the work of photographer Robert Heinecken, which to see in the first season of 2015. whose provocative works collaged images Loose-fitting structure, pretty florals and from popular culture and pornography. neutral colours are apparent throughout, Models sporting full-length leather coats, as is denim, which is predicted to have yet sequined halterneck minidresses, ‘pimp’ hats another ‘moment’ this spring. Wearable and hotpants all alluded to the seedier side of cream suits, comfortable knitwear and the 1970s, but with a confidence and allure pretty silk dresses make this woman- that lends the Saint Laurent vision a high- friendly designer’s collection flattering to class, daring edge. the female form, in all its curves and non- www.saintlaurent.com runway-ready imperfections. www.stellamccartney.com

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To d ’s Allesandra Facchinetti’s third collection for Tod’s is called ‘Private Green’, and, like her first, references the heritage of the Italian leather goods house that recently embarked on a ready-to-wear collection to complement its famous shoes and handbags. At the centre of the look is a biker jacket, seen in a variety of styles. Silhouettes are crisp and wearable, soft and flowing, with clever cuts that echo high- end saddlery. Meanwhile the use of cottons offer a sense of naturalness, while the colour palette – browns, neutrals and emeralds – in a variety of leather, nylon and silks – nods to the inspiration of Italy’s famous gardens, the inspiration for this collection. www.tods.com Versace Donatella Versace’s vision for the Italian house of couture is bold, sexy and fresh – and you would expect nothing less of Versace. Lines are clean, colours are strong and details are playful, feminine and bold. Black tailoring is trimmed with oversized white stitching, knitwear is sporty, and laser-cut tops bring lightness to a collection that is colourful, full of colour-blocking features, and unabashedly ‘Versace’. “This is about a fresh new Versace, one that is contemporary, clean and strong. It is the way women wear Versace now and in the future,” states Donatella Versace. www.versace.com

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industry insight A feeling of diffusion by rebecca stevens

few short months ago in London, Victoria commercial footprint; it taps wearability, affordability Beckham found herself poised beneath and desirability all at once, enabling fast, accessible buys Abeating spotlights, in conversation with British for fashion-savvy clientele. Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman. The topic? Victoria’s But not all high-end brands experiment with mainline range, ‘Victoria Beckham’ – a regular in the diffusion for the benefit of clanging tills and pound New York show schedule since 2009 – and her young signs. Parisian fashion house, launched in ‘sister’ line, Victoria by Victoria Beckham. “I created the 1970s as a rebellion against the haute couture system; my Victoria line because I wanted to offer something Rykiel chose to immerse herself in the revolutionary that was a little less expensive. With the line, I can do my ready-to-wear movement on Paris’s Left Bank in Saint- production in Portugal; it allows me to offer a collection Germain-des-Prés instead. A fiery red head, Sonia that isn’t compromised fabric-wise or design-wise. My Rykiel had a firm belief in eccentric yet seductive style. customer can have Victoria Beckham clothes at a more “[Sonia] made clothes for women who wanted total affordable price”. freedom of movement” outlines the brand’s website. Ah yes, the : The cheaper, more Her style revolution encapsulated standout stripes – a accessible alternative to a designer’s signature, runway mark that quickly became Rykiel’s signature - along 80 collection. For the major fashion houses, diffusion has with skin-tight, enveloped knits that seductively kissed Sonia Rykiel’s mainline become somewhat of a norm; why offer consumers just the skin and hugged curves. collection (pictured one collection, when a fashion house or international The Parisian mainline collection and its younger here) is complemented by a diffusion line, brand can offer two, three or even four, extending the diffusion line, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel are seamlessly Sonia by Sonia Rykiel. brand’s reach and widening its customer base. Diffusion intertwined. A genuine, symbolic relationship binds The brand launched in the 1970s as an is a smart move for designers that want to broaden their the two - a mother/daughter, adult/adolescent antidode to the

dominance of couture.

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connotation. One collection looks to Rykiel brand is about. Instead, she wears Sonia By showcased similar ideas for its explore the successes of extending its the future, while the other nods to the clothes only for herself, and for her own pre-fall 15 edit; where one Rykiel collection brand - is . What began as brand’s founding seventies heyday: a fond scandalous beauty. The Sonia By woman goes, the other undisputedly follows. a small tie company in 1967 has quickly reflection of the brand’s rebellious past, isn’t too far behind in her beliefs, attitude The range was more grown up than we’ve snowballed into an unstoppable global and a spotlight on its youth. As a family-led or conventions. She’s free-spirited and become accustomed to. Shot against a powerhouse, with a staggering 20-sub brand, this analogy makes perfect sense: curious; one can imagine her slipping on signature Parisian backdrop, the boxy diffusion labels to date, some of which Rykiel’s daughter, Nathalie launched the her croc-effect Chelsea boots, throwing cropped jackets came sliced with oversized include RRL, Polo Ralph Lauren and Sonia By line in 1989 as a small project of a bag over her back and exploring the city. Breton stripes, tight fitting leather trousers Black Label. Whether or not these can be her own. A range recognised as ‘special- Neither sits and waits for life to come to had a cheeky, androgynous edge and rightfully called diffusion is questionable; casual’, Nathalie brought new energy to them: rather they don flamboyant stripes, clashing prints, that were paired with faux Ralph Lauren sees each as a stand-alone the Rykiel brand, thus bringing the Sonia utilitarian culottes and faded denim and alligator boots, gave a flirtatious, yet adult label in its own right. “Polo, Ralph Lauren, By line to life. go in search of new adventures. feel to the range. We’ve seen pink banded those are all brands that are within the One thing is for sure: the Rykiel house “There are so many codes, and there’s about in past collections too, be it in company that are somewhat separating, is very clear on its mainline and diffusion such a nice heritage, which I’m lucky to be bubblegum hues or in punchy neon stripes so that they work together as their own customer, and of its interlinking brand able to take from and reinvent,” says the on obi-style belts. But for the pre-fall voice” Lauren recently remarked. “My codes. There are two idealised women at brand’s new Creative Director, Julie de range it certainly felt as though Nathalie philosophy was that I never did focus Top left: Sonia Rykiel’s the core: the ‘all grown up’ and the ‘growing Libran at her debut ss15 mainline show. Rykiel had grown up, and the collection groups. The Purple Label customer is also mainline collection up slowly’. Each has its own personality, The appreciation for Rykiel’s heritage style is growing with her. But nonetheless, the double Ralph Lauren customer. The (ss15) and (same row, quirkiness and style; hence the brand’s was evident from Libran’s first look: stripes Nathalie stays true to her foundations: the Black Label customer is not a double Ralph right) a look from Sonia By diffusion signature marks form subtle parallels materialised as blocked, embellished brand is a luxury template, a guide and a Lauren customer. And I believe that today, line. Right: Ralph between both. The Sonia Rykiel woman is sequins across chic baby doll dresses, on rulebook that the main and diffusion lines we don’t have one way of dressing”. Lauren Polo (pictured ‘alive, spirited and a bit crazy sometimes’. sunglasses, on the linings of jackets and dutifully return to season after season. It’s an interesting point. Ralph Lauren top right) and the main ready-to-wear She doesn’t care for conformity; and nor as metal eyelets on skirts that were neatly Another prestigious label to has developed clothing, homewares, (pictured bottom should she. That’s not what the Sonia punctured in strict lines. experiment with diffusion – and to kidswear and accessories as he’s gone left and right).

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along, all based on what he’d personally like to own. But as with many other global brands, Ralph Lauren has a portfolio of recognisable themes that remain the lifeblood of his success: ‘The World of Ralph Lauren’ encapsulates a preppy, Americana ideal with a true and honest devotion to the rustic American Southwest. The vintage cars, Polo days and sun-kissed models portray a very confident brand image across the 18-or- so lines, and yet somehow - under the watchful eye of Ralph Lauren – each line sits in perfect harmony with the other. “Ralph Lauren sells the life you’d like to lead”, Oprah Winfrey once said. Perhaps that explains the brand’s vast global expansion; the label offers a vital touch- point at every stage of its customers’ lives. Each season, Ralph Lauren showcases a mainline collection in New York and, as a first for spring summer 2015, Polo for Women was given its first iconic show slot - a holographic fanfare of a show was beamed on to a water projection in Central Park. Ralph Lauren doesn’t do things by halves, and this introductory showcase was no exception. However, the reviews were split: was the focus on the clothes or the extravagant display? Of course, when it came to Ralph Lauren’s mainline show the Rykiel a few days later, the focus was the clothes. house is very In the same way that Sonia Rykiel defines its collections by age, the same clear on its can be said for the Polo for Women and the Ralph Lauren Collection lines. On mainline and the runway, the Ralph Lauren woman is diffusion extravagant: she wears brilliant orange and yellow teamed with khaki shirts tucked in customer, to billowing skirts. She wears her clothes with the utmost confidence; the clothes do and of its not wear her. Whether the Lauren woman interlinking has slipped in to an evening dress or is just out for daytime play, she has either a silk is the comfortable fit, the belted waists, there remains tight brand codes connecting brand codes. scarf or a string of glamorous gemstones the tailored jackets and the knee-length the designer, the inspiration and the gracefully strung around her neck. Lauren peasant skirts. Colour is a key theme for purpose. Each arm of the business reaches is the master of juxtaposed day-to-night Ralph Lauren: it appears on the iconic polo out to a valued place in its customer’s lives - dressing: at the core, his brand is about shirts, the pink polo motif for Lauren’s an important factor of any brand’s future wearability, practicality, colour and style. cancer initiative and even as muted khaki development and success. And so it should be, considering the Ralph hues in both the mainline and sister In the words of Julie de Libran Lauren woman typically juggles a family ‘Denim & Supply’ collections. Colour is from Sonia Rykiel: “Like many French 84 and a career in the day, and then steps out a big idea, but in the case of Ralph Lauren women who were born in the seventies, This page: A look from for fun at night. that idea has been played out exceptionally I have happy childhood memories of my Sonia Rykiel SS15. But how does that messaging transfer well to the benefit of the brand. mother wearing Sonia Rykiel. So I’ve Opposite top left: Marc to the Polo for Women line for example? Whatever the intended messaging had a life-long connection to the label, by Marc Jacobs ss15 and (right) Marc Jacobs Is there a connection? Well yes: the behind a main and diffusion line - or and arriving here has felt curiously like from the same season. bright, block colour is still there. And so multiple lines in the case of Ralph Lauren - a home-coming.” Bottom row (left) shows Victoria by Victoria Beckham and (right) a look from the mainline.

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I will take a fabric I don’t usually like working with and manipulate it to create something unique that I love.

You have worked on bridal, ready-to- Rami al Ali wear and couture collections, how do you adapt to each area? Which do you enjoy doing the most? This is a difficult question for me as each Going collection has a unique feel and set of emotions. Couture will always have a special place in my heart as it provokes global connotations of luxury, elegance and sophistication, values that coincide with From humble my personal ideas of what fashion should beginnings to red- be. I love that couture is associated with carpet favourite, high fashion and the journey of creating something bespoke. couturier Rami Al Ali has turned vision into What is your design process? reality. La Femme’s I start collections by finding a minimum of two visual themes that I want to explore. Surena Chandé I look into each theme and try to find speaks to the man what’s been done before – if someone’s who dresses the A-list. created something interesting I research further then aim to raise the bar and make something better. If these ideas spark further thoughts and I start to imagine pieces on mannequins, I know this is the theme I’ll stick with.

What inspires you? Many things – travel, culture, art, colours, shapes all provoke interesting ideas. I am naturally drawn to anything authentic, original and real.

How does travel influence you? This year I travelled to Brazil and visited the rainforests, which became the inspiration for my AW14/15 couture collection. I was fascinated by the hidden canopies of the jungle and the What sparked your love of fashion and Communications, this passion was further juxtapositions between tranquillity and made you want to be a designer? cemented and I produced a fashion show vibrancy within. I’ve previously been From a young age and during my for my final project. It caused quite a inspired by architecture from Rome, and childhood in Syria, I was interested in stir at the time, but my professors loved my Syrian roots are ingrained within my clothing, fabric and design. My mother the outcome and I found the courage to subconscious – Arabic touches surface was impeccably stylish and this definitely pursue a career in fashion. without me noticing. Syrian geometric laid the foundations for my love of fashion. design and mosaics are reflected Growing up with four sisters, I became Is your style constantly evolving? throughout my gowns, I love that they are fascinated by the transformation that I love to experiment with innovative connected to logic and precision. would take place when they got dressed textiles and create exciting silhouettes – I up for events and I paid attention to never want to be stagnant, as I believe this What are your favourite items from h a h

every detail. When I joined the College is where designers can become stuck in a your wardrobe? a ll r of Fine Arts in Damascus to study Visual rut. I like to be challenged, for example My personal style is classic with a twist. I ai Kh a n a rj i : M : mages I 86 la femme 87 la mode

don’t like a lot of attention, but I wouldn’t What are your thoughts on the UAE What’s next for Rami Al Ali? want to fade into the background. One of fashion scene and how it is being a My new bridal collection will be launched my favourite purchases is a navy-blue designer here compared to elsewhere? soon. I’m also working on the next prêt-à- jacket with a grosgrain strip from Viktor While being a designer in the UAE has porter line and SS15 couture collection. & Rolf, which embodies this concept. I opened doors to incredible opportunities, It’s very important to me that everything invest heavily in accessories as I think I can’t deny it’s more difficult making it on grows organically, so I just want to keep these help to create an polished look. a worldwide platform whilst being based doing what I enjoy. here. Competing with mature industries is You have shown at fashion weeks challenging, not because of creativity, but Where do you envision your brand around the world, how does it feel when simply because of being so far from the big being in five years? you see your work on the runway? buyers, the celebrities and the stylists. It’s It would be amazing to become an It’s incredible to see my collections much more of an uphill struggle. However, international name. With the launch of presented after months of hard work and I don’t regret staying in the region as it’s my new ready-to-wear collection I will preparation – a feeling like no other! The my home and I have an identity here. continue to develop this and present two design process is stressful, involving long I believe the Middle Eastern fashion times a year. I would love to further extend hours and sleepless nights so it’s a surreal scene in very elegant with strong attention my reach into the international market. feeling when it’s finally complete. My to detail, and the new generation of feelings change each day as I fall in love designers are creating something new How would you like women to feel with and try new things – it isn’t simply by merging Arabic culture with a more when wearing your creations? black and white. Western aesthetic. I want the women I dress to feel confident and elegant, like they can command the What did showing at Rome, then Paris couture week mean for your career? Showing in Rome for the first time was important because it was my European breakthrough and everything was I’ve been lucky enough completely new. Moving on to Paris was to dress stars such as a dream come true, it’s just a completely different environment compared with Beyoncé, Chanel Iman and Designer Rami Al Ali other fashion capitals. It’s not simply credits the region’s about the collection but the atmosphere, . A-list celebrities the mood and philosophy behind each for helping him to attain international dress. I believe it was a significant factor recognition. in receiving worldwide acclaim because What challenges have you faced? room. My creations make women feel if you want to be compared with the I think that with everything in life you empowered and feminine; they know what major industry players you have to show get out what you put in. I have worked they want and are fiercely independent. alongside them. extremely hard to get where I am today and of course there have been setbacks, How do you feel about your success? Did you foresee this success when you but these are character building and have I feel incredibly lucky. Each step of the way first embarked on a career in fashion? made my brand what it is. Being from a has been interesting, challenging hard When I first established my label in small town in Syria and breaking into work and I’m still grateful I am able to call Dubai, I was lucky that a number of the mainstream has been a long process, my passion my career. celebrities from the region took a chance however this also makes it even greater to on me and wore my designs when I was have achieved such success. Could you tell us about the SS15 prêt- still a small fashion house. It was a risk à-porter collection? that paid off for both sides as they tried What have been your highlights? It was inspired by the splendour of the something new and stood out, while I A moment that stands out is when orchid. I was intrigued by the fact that the gained exposure and had the benefit of Swarovski contacted me to be part of flower has dual connotations – suggesting dressing the Middle East’s A-listers. I will the Unbridled book. I didn’t realise how innocence and purity yet at the same time always be grateful to them for believing big an opportunity it was until I flew to it’s mysterious and exotic – as I think this in me from the beginning and will never Paris for the launch and saw which other represents the femininity and strength forget their support. Seeing my designs on international designers were involved. that embodies modern women. It’s made global A-list celebrities is also an amazing Another was the first time I showed my up of dresses and separates in feminine feeling and I’ve been lucky enough to dress collection in Rome, as it was the first time fabrics such as organza and silk with a stars such as Beyoncé, Chanel Iman and I developed my own print and showed to a colour palette of lime, peach, dark salmon Jennifer Lopez, amongst others. completely new audience outside Dubai. and lavender.

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a whiter shade of pale

photography: robert james navarro STYLING: Stuart Robertson

clutch Bag, Dhs3,000, Jimmy Choo. shoe, Dhs2,800, Jimmy Choo.

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Clutch, Dhs4,890, Charlotte Olympia at Bloomingdale's. Opposite: Rings, Dhs475 each, Kenneth Jay Lane at Bloomingdale's.

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Printed shoe, Dhs3,145,Charlotte Olympia at Bloomingdale's. Clutch, Dhs9,900, Alexander McQueen.

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Shoe, Dhs3,300 and bag, Dhs9,360 both Roger Vivier.

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Wristwatch, Dhs1,200, . Shoe, Dhs5,650, Alexander McQueen.

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Clutch, Dhs6,150, Rodo. Shoe, Dhs3,050,Jimmy Choo.

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Necklace, Dhs1,150, L'Apartement a'Louer at Bloomingdale's. Shoe, Dhs2,050, Sophia Webster at Bloomingdale's.

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BULGARI FUNDRAISING GALA A glittering array of guests including Suzy Menkes, Carla Fendi, Frida Giannini and Alberta Ferretti joined Nicola and Beatrice Bulgari at a fundraising dinner for th Maxxi Roger Vivier Museum in Rome, private lunch which supports artistic Ines de la Fressange innovation. Vanessa welcomed fashion’s A-list Beecroft performed to a lunch celebrating the during the dinner as Limited Edition Miss Viv’ guests mingled amidst a L’ArcoBaleno handbag. display of Bulgari jewels. The bag designed by Bruno Frisoni (inspired by Ambra’s design website L’ArcoBaleno) was on display while guests including Tod’s CEO & President Diego Della Valle, Livia Firth and Freida Pinto enjoyed cocktails and a DJ set by Nektar De Stagni.

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107 ’s totemic wildcat gets a 2015 update, with a glittering coat of brilliant- cut diamonds, black onyx stones and with a pair of deep green emeralds for eyes. prECious momEnts february's jewellery highlights, chosen BY Surena ChandÉ

romantic moment The beautiful Médor watch, first created in 1993, draws inspiration from one of the first objects that Hermès produced: dog collars. With the face hidden by a striking Two to Tango pyramid stud embellished These beautiful rings from with diamonds, the watch Pomellato’s Tango collection doubles as a bracelet and are perfect alone or stacked the new collection comes as two or three – because in an assortment of hues. floral it’s hard to resist the colour Available at Ahmed Seddiqi variations that can dress up & Sons. www.hermes.com brilliance any ensemble. Formed with rose gold, silver and unusual The feminine, floral Cosmos collection from brown diamonds, the rings work Van Cleef & Arpels is formed with incredible well with other pieces from the craftsmanship, with diamonds, mother of pearl Tango collection. such as the and onyx delicately set on pink gold to enhance chain-link bracelets. Dhs30,500 each piece's sparkle and beauty. Inspired by each, at Bloomingdale’s. nature and luck, the collection is a perfectly www.pomellato.com versatile addition to your jewellery collection. www.vancleefarpels.com

From the heart Christmas may have passed, and though it’s a little late to add it to your wish-list, why not start the new year with some serious sparkle. The limited-edition Chopard Magnificent Diamond Twist heart-shaped ring has Bl ack swan EnChanTing a 5.36-carat diamond in the Inspired by graceful swans, these centre, with pavé-set diamonds divine Cypris earrings from surrounding it. If you think your are at the top of our partner could be planning on lust-have list. A black variation ivy popping the question, we’d from an earlier diamond edition recommend leaving this page Intricate diamond designs, stunning swirls and technical brilliance define the new of the same earrings, these jewel- of La Femme open on the coffee Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater. Capturing the magic of the first frost on trees encrusted beauties feature pavé table – potentially with a red and leaves during winter, the feminine ivy design is created with an astonishing black sapphires, diamonds and circle penned around the ring 548 diamonds, 255 of which surround the dial, set in white gold. With even the rubies set on blackened white gold. – to see if anyone surprises you sounds that the watch makes designed to sound melodious, it is clear that Jaeger- Dhs98,000 at Bloomingdale’s. with it. www.chopard.com LeCoulture focuses on the finer details. Price on request.www.jaeger-lecoulture.com www.boucheron.com

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military preCision With its new J12-G.10 wristwatch, Chanel brings a touch of the military world to its fine watchmaking

BY JOLA CHUDY

f, like most readers of La Femme you class heritage lends the world of haute horlogerie yourself as part of the civilian population and high fashion a frisson of utilitarian Irather than one of its armed protectors, kudos, whether the watch is intended for then the chances are that your understanding active service or not. of what a ‘Nato strap’ is may be hazy at best. Enter the Chanel interpretation of this Don’t worry, we’re here to explain, and to very strap, teamed for the first time with the tell you why Chanel’s J12-G.10 timepiece, iconic J12 timepiece. Of course, this being inspired by that particular piece of military the house of Chanel, it’s not surprising that horological paraphenelia, may be one of alligator leather has replaced the original 2015’s most lusted-after new wristwatches. nylon, and that diamonds adorn the dial (the First, the explanation: The G.10 strap watch does however feature the double-loop was originally part of the British Army’s kit strap inspired by the British Military). Several during the early 1970s. A far-from-luxurious models are available; all feature quartz piece of nylon, its outstanding feature was a movements and are offered in a palette of simple failsafe chrome-plated buckle with black, grey or white ceramic. A limited- a keeper at its end that allowed the watch to edition version has also been produced, in stay firmly in place on the wearer’s wrist. 18-carat white gold and a 42mm dial. This A soldier wishing to add such an item to rare piece has nearly 12 carats of diamonds, his inventory had to fill our a form known as the alligator strap and a black lacquered high- a G1098, or G10, for short. Today, the leading tech ceramic centre dial – a piece whose very protagonists of the fine watchmaking world scarcity may inspire some determined buyers have embraced this unassuming little piece to wage a little war of their own in seeking to of military kit as their own, and its military ensure its acquisition.

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LILY CLUSTER (left). Derived from archival Winston sketches from the 1940s, the Lily Cluster engagement ring boasts a round brilliant-cut diamond in a delicate setting of intertwining blossoming petals. Handcrafted entirely out of platinum and diamonds, the symmetry of the floral motif serves to enhance and highlight the brilliance and beauty of the centre stone.

a love to last

ENGAGEMENT RINGS Harry Winston’s forever engagement rings a diamond’s strength and beauty signifies enduring captures the enduring love, and the diamonds of Harry Winston are a elegance and rare beauty of the world’s peerless expression of that sentiment BELLE finest diamonds. Each Echoing the antique diamond is carefully by Jola Chudy charm of estate selected and graded jewels, the collection’s to ensure it meets stunning geometric Harry Winston’s strict bezel is hand-set with quality standards. diamond micropavé These diamonds are and elegantly frames then set by hand in t’s the ultimate expression of devotion. A diamond ring, presented that it became an expected ritual. When Harry Winston opened a round brilliant center a way that enhances to its intended upon bended knee, is a romantic tradition infused his first jewellery boutique in 1932, he brought a new vision to stone. Each diamond the beauty of the is selected by hand stones to their fullest. with anticipation and emotion. A powerful symbol for one of this burgeoning popularity of diamonds. With his exceptional eye and graded by our I discerning experts life’s most meaningful moments, diamond rings have come to be for truly magnificent gems and their settings, he transformed the synonymous with proposals, weddings and happily ever after. And to ensure it meets world of high jewellery, garnering the lifelong devotion of stars Harry Winston’s strict the rings of Harry Winston, with their exceptional diamonds in from Marilyn Monroe to Elizabeth Taylor, as well as lending his quality standards matchless settings, are the apogee of this most precious sentiment; inimitable sparkle to the love stories of women the world over. as unique and rare as true love itself. And yet - though it feels Harry Winston diamonds come in all manner of shapes and as though diamond rings are an ageless tradition, it’s only since sizes: they are round brilliant-cut, square emerald-cut, emerald- around the 1930s that it became popular for a man to splash out on cut, cushion-cut, radiant-cut, oval, pear, marquise and heart- carbon carats when asking for a woman’s hand in marriage. shaped; there is a design for every woman – the gems set in The first record of a diamond engagement ring is from 1477, carefully handcrafted platinum settings use the smallest amount when Archduke Maximilian of Austria, on the advice of one of his of metal feasible, in order to allow the gems to shine as brilliantly courtiers (who said “At the betrothal Your Grace must have a ring as possible. From the iconic emerald cut with its clean lines and set with a diamond and also a gold ring,”) commissioned a diamond sophisticated shape to stunning cushion-cut micropavé diamond ring for Mary of Burgundy. Though the well-to-do aristocrats and rings, the Harry Winston engagement ring will never go out of style, noblemen of Europe then began emulating this, it wasn’t really until intended as it is to glimmer and sparkle on the finger for a lifetime the Victorians seized upon the idea of presenting a diamond ring of loving devotion.

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How soon is

DeCo Not just fashion forward, fashion future: prepare deCadenCe o Ralph Lauren 867 nyour wishlist as La Femme treatsw? you to a round- up of some of the timepieces that launched at Collection Petite Diamond the Salon International de la Haute Horlogierie. With its eye-catching geometric From sparkle to technological marvel, time travel patterns and captivating face design, with us for a glimpse of your horological future. Ralph Lauren is looking to the past for inspiration – specifically, the glamour of Words by Rachel Silvestri Art Deco. Striking a distinctly Gatsby- esque note, no doubt this luxe timepiece would be plenty good enough for even Daisy Buchanan. The 21.5mm case is polished 18-carat white gold, set with 302 brilliant-cut and 12 baguette-cut diamonds laid out in an elegantly classic pattern extending both ways on the black suede bracelet. Providing an opulent frame for a deceptively different face, the lacquered dial merges both Roman and Arabic numerals. Concentric squares echo the case’s complex geometry while the Breguet-style hands nod to tradition.

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Different Class A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, or so the adage All the hour markers have been moved goes. But A. Lange & Söhne has flouted toward the dial’s periphery, while the Around the rules by updating its classic Saxonia minute graduations have been slightly timepiece, first launched more than 20 extended. It may not sound like much, the years ago – in a subtle way at least. A but in the scheme of A. Lange & Söhne’s slight reduction in diameter has made distinguished history these changes are world this calibre more suitable for the feminine significant. What hasn’t changed about Heritage wrist, a nod to the trend amongst watch this manually-wound masterwork is Spirit Orbis Terrarum brands of giving more consideration to its sleekness, sophistication and tender their female fans. While adjustments craftsmanship – a hand-engraved From the new Heritage Spirit collection to the design of the dial have improved balance cock, plate and bridges of launched to celebrate Montblanc’s 90th legibility and added some flair to this untreated German silver and white or anniversary and telling the time in 24 refined marque – the four quarter hour pink gold case are all demonstrations time zones, this timepiece incorporates markers are still solid-gold applique but of German precision and a passion for Montblanc craftsmanship, contemporary now enjoy emphasis as double batons. horology at their finest. design and truly stunning complications.

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Green -eyed Ronde Louis Cartier XL Filigree

Blending the classic with the exotic, this latest incarnation of Cartier’s timeless Ronde model breathes new life into the design. Adorned with a pair of striking panthers, emerald-green eyes sparkling Shimmer and set against a starry backdrop of midnight blue, the face of this artfully- & shine constructed watch provides a source Piaget Traditional Oval of intense fascination. Look a little closer and the depth of skill involved in this Arguably more jewellery than timepiece, piece becomes apparent, as Cartier has the Piaget Oval has been a firm favourite breathed new life into the ancient art of for almost six decades and it just keeps filigree. First appearing in the Middle going strong. Its latest incarnation East around 3000 BC (BCE), filigree has shimmers with the gold bracelet’s eye- adorned the most beautiful of jewellery catching ‘palace’ finish while the silver throughout the ages – and now with a dial brings out the purity of the claw-set touch of Cartier magic and a sprinkling diamond bezel. of brilliant-cut diamonds, it’s been brought out of the history books and right up to date.

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Lock up your daughters Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas 2015

Originally inspired by the Duchess of Windsor and first presented in 1935, the Cadenas watch is one of Van Cleef & Arpels’s most instantly-recognisable pieces. Taking the form of a lock, the timepiece ingeniously melds jewellery with horology, allowing the wearer to tell the time at a subtle glance without Behind the veil revealing the dial to companions. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Squelette 2015 update sees changes in the dial, enlarged for visibility and with the A lesson in the art of subtlety, Parmigiani’s allows full observation of the fascinating inclusion of 12 hour markers, the stone SIHH offering whispers sophistication calibre below. Rose gold applique indices setting and increased security in the in more ways than one. Ultra-thin and simply add to the dainty balance of the clasp. Now 80 years on from its initial with Parmigiani’s signature lugs, the dial, while the delta-shaped luminescent debut, the Cadenas’s facelift is just 18-carat rose gold case is beautiful in its hands have just enough heft to compete subtle enough that it doesn’t lose its simplicity, set off perfectly by a single ring with the complexity of the openworking original striking charm. With editions in of diamonds in the bezel. However, the below. Parmigiani Fleurier’s logo is classic yellow gold, white gold and serti dial is where this watch really comes into pleasingly understated, following the type niege set diamonds or pink gold, its own. The fully openworked movement curve of the rim of the dial – a wise choice, diamond and sapphire pavé all available, is thinly veiled by a frosted layer of matt ensuring the artful equilibrium of the 2015 is most certainly a good year for sapphire, forming a delicate dial that still watch face remains unbroken. haute joaillerie.

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Upstate, uptown Baume & Mercier Hampton Automatic

Blue moon Celebrating its 20th anniversary, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Hampton has had a nip and tuck, tapered Rendez-Vous Moon and lightened to sit more prettily on the wrist. Clean, crisp and cosmopolitan, Incorporating moon, star and constellation motifs wear the Hampton and channel the into a sparklingly elegant design, this year Jaeger- chic WASPs who make this timepiece’s LeCoultre has taken the Rendez-Vous up a notch namesake New York resort their home. and into the heavens. Part of a relatively young collection that’s rapidly gained momentum, the Moon demonstrates the virtuosity with which JLC is producing future classics.

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light &

he 1960s was a memorable is his story. Born in 1927, Jean Dinh decade for style: Paco Rabanne Van inherited his artistic sensibility motion Tcreated the metal disc dress; from his father, a lacquer ware artisan. La Femme sits down with Thierry Vasseur, Mary Quant invented the mini skirt; After graduation from Les Beaux Arts Deputy General Manager of Dinh Van, to André Courrèges introduced the Space de Paris, he spent 10 years acquiring learn about the jewellery house and ‘The Age with the Moon Girl collection; the know-how of jewellery making at Free Spirit of the French Jewellery’. Yves Saint Laurent unveiled his prêt- Cartier in Paris, where his hands, as he à-porter boutique Rive Gauche. It was puts it, “fell in love with metal.” In the by mia xu a turning point in history, as ‘fashion’, early 1960s, Dinh Van was fascinated a concept and a pursuit formerly by all the social, cultural and artistic associated with social status and developments taking place around Right: The ‘Menottes’ wealth, was dictated by the young and him, including the futuristic creations R7 chain ring in pink creative. In that decade of innovation, of Paco Rabanne and , gold is Dinh Van’s a young jeweller then working for for Knoll furniture and the advertisements icon ring and (left) Thierry Vasseur, the Cartier wanted to become a part of of Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet, founder company’s deputy that trend for breaking traditions. This of Publicis. In an era of innovation general manager.

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and endowing arts with liberty, Dinh asked him whether they could distribute Van was eager to express his idea of his designs in North America. They freeing jewellery from the constraining hallmarked the jewellery with ‘Cartier, traditions of haute joillaire. In a leap of Dinh Van’. In , we sold our jewellery faith, Dinh Van left Cartier, then as now as Dinh Van while in the US, we sold as a hugely infleuential Maison known for ‘Dinh Van for Cartier’,” says Vasseur. traditional artistic jewellery, and turned Whilst collaborating with Cartier New his focus to contemporary design. “Jean York to distribute his jewellery in North was young and wanted to be a part of the America, Dinh Van created a key-ring- movement. He found that he could not inspired design in 1976 that has become do it in a traditional jewellery house, so a signature of his brand. “Jean had a he left Cartier to create contemporary problem; he had a lot of keys, and he wanted designs, which are not inspired by to separate them easily. As you know, it traditional inspiration such as fairy tales, is very difficult to take out one key from flowers, animals or stars. He wanted to do a traditional key holder. So he invented something more abstract,” says Thierry this design,” said Vasseur, showing La Vasseur, the deputy general manager of Femme an easy-to-separate handcuff-like the eponymous founder’s company. keyring clasp on his Menottes Dinh Van Joining a group of innovative young bracelet. “One customer asked Jean ‘can jewellers in 1965, Dinh Van set up his you create a clasp like that for my pearl business on Place Gaillon, near Place necklace?’ So the first Menottes clasp was Vendôme. “There were four young created. And it became a collection.” jewellers who wanted to create something With what has become an emblematic new. They shared the same workshop sense of humour in his work, Dinh Van because they had no money at the time,” transformed his idea into an eccentric says Vasseur. In complete antithesis to yet enticing collection that is still a best- traditional jewellery, Dinh Van’s simple selling feature of his brand. yet refined pieces were designed to be worn every day. “Now, everybody is creating this kind of jewellery. But at that time, nobody was doing it. He was one of the first to do so,” says Vasseur. Jean started to collaborate with high- profile designers. He worked with Pierre Cardin to create a ring. Created in 1967, the gold square ring set with two pearls, one black and one white, immediately associated Dinh Van with one of the most celebrated names in fashion. With the success of his avant-garde design fuelling his ascent, Dinh Van travelled to the United States and Canada in order to further promote his creations, and here his career came full circle, after catching the eye of his original employer at a 126 jewellery fair in New York. A tribute to that decade’s “At the exhibition, Cartier New York symbols of boldness and [the company operated as Cartier Paris, freedom, the ‘Seventies’ cuff Cartier London and Cartier New York comes in white gold or silver, and can be accessorised until the 1980s] loved the work of Jean and with a diamond pavé ring. Opposite from top: The ‘Seventies’ cuff; a ‘Menottes’ pair of cufflinks and a ‘Menottes R8’ ring.

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From top: A 35mm chain and rebelliousness runs through Dinh pendant with satin carbon Van’s work. ruthenium and black diamonds is a version of the famous Pi After more than a half century disk, designed in collaboration dedication to jewellery, Dinh Van’s with Lapo Elkann; the famous creative talent was acknowledged when Pierre Cardin gold ring with black and white pearls; a ‘dog his creations were made a permanent tag’ featuring a signature collection by The Decorative Art Museum ‘nick’ in the shape and a in Paris in 2003. A legend of the 20th contemporary twist on a jewellery classic: the Dinh century’s revolution of jewellery, Dinh Van Van engagement ring. is still involved in the design of jewellery in complete antithesis hallmarked with his name. “Jean was a jeweller at the beginning, so he always to traditional said that ‘you have to use your hand to feel.’ jewellery, Dinh Van’s We don’t just think, we do. Our process of “When we say ‘The Free Spirit’, creating is to do it,” Vasseur says. As Dinh simple-yet-refined it means that we don’t do it like others. Van expressed, that his hands “fell in love pieces have been When they say ‘you have to hide the clasp’, with metal,” the jeweller has personally we show the clasp. For the Menottes crafted the prototype of every design. created to be worn collection, it’s the clasp that is the centre Many of his innovations, such as the every day. of the piece. It’s non-traditional,” says Menottes and Serrure, were created by Vasseur, showing the Serrure cuff bracelet trial and error. His unique methodology with a clasp as the focal point of the piece differentiates Dinh Van from many other on his arm. “Similarly to the Menottes, it’s jewellery houses. very simple but with a lot of intelligence. It “We don’t do ‘bling bling’ jewellery. We clips with the flexibility of the metal. This are a niche brand. We do not try to make makes it easy to put on and take off.” everyone loves the brand. But those who A pioneer of design, Dinh Van love the brand, they really do. We are here continued his story of reinventing bold to talk to people that understand us. When pieces. His style blossomed with creations people look for fancier jewellery, they such as the Lame de Rasoir, Maillon and may go to Cartier, Van Cleef, Bulgari or Pi Chinois. A surprising piece indicating Piaget. If they look for a square ring, they the designer’s sense of humour, Lame de come to Dinh Van. Maybe ten per cent of Rasoir is a collection of everlasting razor people like square rings, and that’s ok for blades crafted from precious metals. us. Some customers asked us to change When Dinh Van was looking for a chain- the shape of the square ring, we don’t. You link exclusive for his brand, he created either like it or you don’t. They point is that a flattened geometric shape in striking we’re here to offer something and share contrast with traditional chains. In the the vision,” he says. Since its founding in 1990s, a law authorised the import of 1965, Dinh Van’s design has been firmly 9-carat gold (an alloy with only 37.5 percent associated with the meaning of avant- of gold) in France. In order to protest garde. Much of the jeweller’s life has been against the use of 9-carat gold, Dinh Van devoted to defining ‘The Free Spirit of created the Pi Chinois collection with The French Jewellery’. He never has and 24-carat pure gold. Drawing inspiration never will compromise to appeal to an from Pi (also known as Bi) - a style of ordinary crowd. Though Dinh Van is not round Chinese jade disc with a round hole for everyone, its patrons are loyal to the at the centre, the Pi Chinois collection is brand. It is the uniqueness and quirk that crafted by manually-hammering the disc. contribute to the endurance of the house’s From the ‘hand-cuff’ Menottes to the extraordinary story. quirky Lame de Rasoir, a sense of humour

128 la femme la femme 129 les 130 founders, creators, leaders The grand finale of the Chanel spring/ summer 2015 show at the Grand Palais. les inspirateurs Alice

i Oa stylishliv affaair Stacey Bendet Eisner is the accidental creator of ‘crazy pants’ and the woman behind contemporary fashion brand Alice + Olivia

BY Mia Xu

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The offbeat story of Alice and idea, she took one of her favourite pair of Olivia starts with a pair of trousers. jeans and that fabric to a pattern maker To be specific, with a pair of trousers who made the first pair of Bendet’s “crazy made from curtain fabric. Not the most pants”. She recalled: “Wherever I went, obviously fashion-forward beginning of people would stop me and ask ‘where a brand now beloved of fashion industry did you get those pants?’” Not long insiders as well as upscale high street afterwards, designer Lisa Kline bumped shoppers, but then Alice and Olivia into Bendet outside her fashion store has never been the most predictable in Robertson Boulevard, Los Angeles of fashion brands. And neither, as she (where Bendet now has an Alice and admits, is its founder and chief designer, Olivia boutique), saying “where did you Stacey Bendet. After the designer’s get those pants? I need them for my shop.” graduation from the less-than- On the spot, Kline made an order from fashionable University of Pennsylvania, Bendet; and that was the initial moment the then-21-year-old Bendet worked as a when Bendet embarked on turning her graphic designer building Flash websites hobby into a career in fashion. for public relations agencies and fashion “My dad always told me ‘If you can brands. “While I was building websites, I turn your love into your work, you will be was learning about the fashion industry. happy.’ And I think that is truly what I did. I had that experience of being around Of course there are challenges, every day a lot of designers,” she recalls. “The there are challenges. Producing things background in graphic design helped all over the world, shipping things and me understand colours and prints.” As a getting stores opened... There are always graphic designer, Bendet would explore problems. You have to make lemonade markets and unusual places, looking out of lemons,” she says. Starting from for inspiration for the web sites she was scratch, with no experience in garment working on. One day Bendet came across making, young Bendet and her college a roll of bold striped fabric; the thought classmate Rebecca Matchett launched struck her that it might lend itself to a a designer label named after their quirky pair of trousers. To test out her mothers. In 2002, Bendet had her first

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More than just a pair renowned department store Barneys of pants: The Alice New York. For an emerging designer and Olivia offering has new in the industry, their first order evolved into a complete lifestyle brand. from a prominent retailer is inevitably encouraging, exciting yet challenging. “I was obviously very excited, but I had no clue about what I was doing at that time. I was so young and had to think about what I had to do next,” she continued. “I think there are always difficulties. It’s the same for everyone who is a creative person and an entrepreneur. Because you can spend your day focusing on things that are difficult to do. But at the end of it, it is more about having a positive outlook on what you can do.” Today, having evolved from Bendet’s hobby of making trousers, Alice and Olivia is a full lifestyle brand that includes ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and children’s wear, with more than 20 freestanding boutiques and more than 800 point-of-sales worldwide, including Sak’s Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Lane Crawford, Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Net-a- Porter. Owing to its distinctively playful style, the brand has become a favourite in Hollywood, attracting the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Blake Lively, Drew Barrymore and . While keeping signature trousers as a key feature of her designs each season, Bendet also presents feminine dresses and skirts in her collections. “I think I have grown up a little bit. That’s part of the evolution. But we always maintain the femininity, flirtiness and sexiness fashion show at the Russian Tea Room, trousers, Bendet was nicknamed “Stacey for the clothing. I like to make women New York, with topless models carrying Pants” by Rosen. she said: “When I feel like women, to feel sexy and cheerful. flowers, in a collection comprising started, I thought it was important They smile when they put our clothes on. colourful, daring trousers. to brand only one thing. For a lot of I think of different women when I am At that show, Bendet met her long- designers, probably the biggest mistake designing. I look around New York. Is term business partner Andrew Rosen - they’ve made is that they started with a she in downtown? Is she in uptown? Or the co-founder of contemporary fashion whole collection. It may lose the focus is she in Brooklyn? For our Air line, it’s line Theory and the person who has on who they are and what they are going all about jersey pieces. It’s about being financed Alice and Olivia after Bendet’s to be in the industry. I was just going to a mom. There are easy pieces that make original partnership with Matchett was make some awesome, sexy pants. And you feel cool and casual. Our To Work dissolved in 2003. we’ve branded ourselves as a pants brand. line is more about the girl going for work “He came to the show and said it was When talking about Alice and Olivia, every day, running around in New York really cool. It is like Theory’s little crazy people would think of crazy pants. But and going out afterwards. It is not about sister. He’s been the most incredible we’ve evolved from that point.” just being a lawyer but a girl with a sexy partner and friend that anyone could Bendet’s strategy helped her brand dress going for a drink after work.” ever hope for. I feel very fortunate,” says to get the focus that it needed, as not “For the autumn collection, we went the designer. long after the quirky fashion show, Alice back to cool, novel pants with amazing Focusing solely on her signature and Olivia received its first order from fabrics, wide legs and high waist. The

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show was about a fairy tale. It started with butterfly prints. The clothes are feminine and sexy.” Though Bendet’s company is certainly prominent enough to feature among the established brands’ runway shows during New York Fashion Week, she still prefers to present her collections away from the catwalks. It makes it easier to tell her story. Her spring/summer 2015 presentation took place in the grand ballroom of the Hotel Pierre in Manhattan, where she was staying while her apartment was renovated. The grand location was fitting considering that the Alice and Olivia’s equally imposing Palace of Versailles was wonderland: Stacey Bendet has created one of the inspirations running through a colourful, fantasy- the collection. fuelled universe for her New York brand that is “The collection is filled with print and driven by an eclectic, texture and I truly wanted each piece of feminine viewpoint. clothing to almost feel like its own piece of art,” says Bendet of the new collection. Her inspiration for the collection also came from modern art prints and digital prints, with lots of influence from the 1970s: the high-waisted trousers, culottes, pretty dresses, embroidered sweatshirts and even beaded gowns. “We are a contemporary clothing brand and I feel it is important to differentiate a little bit. I think showing things in a presentation format better tells the story and we can create an incredible fairy tale. For me, it is more interesting and creative than the runway.” Whilst expanding her brand’s category into eyewear, make-up and even yoga wear (Bendet practices Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga on a daily basis), the designer has been keeping an eye on expansion in established and emerging markets. “We want to open stores all around the world and to be a global lifestyle and clothing brand.”

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All change at Mulberry A British Label Reborn

By Rebecca Stevens

British label, Mulberry hasn’t had prints, Fabergé-inspired collections and an easy ride over the past 24 months. heavy embellishments couldn’t be further What with the very public walk-out of its from Mulberry’s timeless and simplistic Creative Director, Emma Hill in summer heritage appeal. 2013 and the widely reported quitting of Says the incoming designer of his new CEO Bruno Guillon in March, the brand appointment: “I look forward to joining has taken a bit of an unexpected hit. Yet Mulberry as their new Creative Director with the announcement of a new Creative and to leading a new design direction at Director on November 28, Mulberry’s one of the very best British brands.” shares have risen again, bringing fresh So what can we expect from Coca hope to this much-loved heritage brand. at the helm? His style influence comes After a prolonged wait, Spanish-born mainly from Paris where he studied art, accessories designer Johnny Coca has architecture and design. As an established finally been announced as Mulberry’s new accessories designer, Coca has built Creative Director. The decision has been up a convincing CV, having previously a slow and considered one for the brand; worked at Bally, Louis Vuitton and most it’s taken 18 months for Mulberry to decide recently Céline, of which he is leaving to on a worthy replacement for acclaimed join Mulberry. It was in fact Coca who predecessor, Emma Hill. At one point developed Céline’s iconic ‘wing’ ‘it bag’ - there were mutterings of London designer a design that is firmly rooted in Céline’s Mary Katrantzou accepting the role, emergence as a fashion innovator and however that rumour never amounted to global powerhouse. The bag has remained anything. Katrantzou’s shouty, decadent iconic, with a host of other luxury labels

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Mulberry’s new creative director Johnny Coca has a tough task ahead of him, having to respect Mulberry’s heritage while ensuring the brand appeals to a new generation of consumers. Pictured here are highlights from the current SS15 collection including (opposite) the iconic Mini Bayswater bag.

repurposing Céline’s ‘wing’ design in one way or another. Mulberry has fallen culprit to this, casually incorporating the wing bag in to its SS15 collection. But how else does Coca fit the brief? Up until now, there have been two notable strands to Mulberry’s success: accessories and ready-to-wear. Prior to Emma Hill’s appointment in 2007, Mulberry was only really known for its luxe leather bags and wallets. With the majority of leather goods now manufactured abroad, Mulberry’s ‘local’ Somerset factory and community skill-base held strong appeal. Hill fused Mulberry’s already desirable product with high-end fashion and introduced an eagerly anticipated catwalk show to the London Fashion Week schedule. An invitation only affair, Hill transported guests to a land of fantastical luxury and imagination, drawing on the established country garden and woodland themes to help propel the brand’s vision. For the first time, Mulberry had a commercial identity, and it worked well for Mulberry’s profits, reputation and success. And now, Coca must now fill these shoes. It’s no secret that he has limited ready-to-wear experience, however Mulberry needs a creative injection; it cannot survive on the successes of Emma Hill for much longer. To the horror of many, Mulberry’s ready-to-wear show

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was stripped from the London Fashion after the bad press it received in March, Week schedule after Hill’s departure. The it became very important for Mulberry collections anxiously fell in to the hands to showcase its sumptuous quality at an of Fran Stringer and, as head of ready-to- affordable price. Now is the time for the wear, Stringer was entrusted to keep the brand to try something new. And this they fading brand above water. And she’s done a have done – be it subtly – in the form of an great job. Spring/summer 15 incorporated SS15 envelope bag: the fastening flips from a hexagonal motif than intertwined across back to front, enabling a two-way, colour- playful A-line skirts, softly flared shift block design. New ideas are already dresses and formal jackets. Garments were creeping in to the Mulberry mix, and that’s intensely embroidered with pretty florals even before Coca takes the reigns this July. that wouldn’t look out of place in an English In the mean time, UAE fans of Mulberry country meadow. This paired with muted can keep an eye on the accessories range The spring/summer utilitarian shades and elements of moody currently available here – the runway 2015 Mulberry midnight blue hues kept the collection looks are not yet on our shores, but with so collection features interesting, desirable and wearable. many changes afoot, it may only be a matter subtle style evolutions, the work of head Fortunately Mulberry’s genuine of time before the brand with the little tree of ready-to-wear, craftsmanship is definitely still there; logo expands its presence here. Fran Stringer.

144 la femme 145 Credited with being the first designer to put seams ‘inside out’ on garments, and of putting slogans on knitwear, Sonia Rykiel, red-headed Polish émigré, grew up in Paris, where one of her first designs, a knitted ‘Poor Boy Sweater’ caught the attention of Elle, who put it on their cover. Pictured here, the designer in 1991 at a Nina Ricci fashion show.

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screen siren

ollowing the death of Hollywood Dunaway would say later, “I’m still the actor and comedian Robin little girl from the wrong side of the tracks FWilliams, on August 12 2014 Faye who really didn’t feel like she belonged.” Dunaway — who turns 74 this month — Life on an army salary was undoubtedly took to Twitter. “Always be yourself,” she tough, with stretches overseas in Germany, said, “even if you are a little mad.” And and with Dunaway’s mother a “stay-at- hash-tagged Robin Williams. She added home mom” who came from poor farming in a tweet to actor and comedian Steve stock. Dunaway would later characterise Martin “a brilliant man and comedian. her upbringing as “poor”, though clearly The acting world has suffered a tragic loss”. her mother had greater plans for her little One thing that Dunaway could never girl (Dunaway had a brother, MacDowell, be accused of is not being herself. From the two years younger than she was). In fact, Standing as a colossus moment she came fizzing and crackling Dunaway, credits her mother with giving that bestrides Old and onto our screens in a hail of machine-gun her the drive to succeed: “My mother’s fire in 1967 as Bonnie to Warren Beatty’s passion for something more, to write a New Hollywood, Faye Clyde in the eponymous film, it was different destiny for a dirt-poor farmer’s Dunaway will always be clear this this was one leading lady that daughter, was to shape my entire life,” she remembered for her role Hollywood would never manage to mould asserted many years later. or control. “Actress Faye Dunaway, the Not that she didn’t have other choices; in Bonnie And Clyde. gun-toting Bonnie Parker in Bonnie and after attending Tallahassee High School, Eugene Costello looks Clyde, has already done for the beret what Dunaway won a place, first at Florida State back over the career of a Bardot did for the bikini,” declared Life University, then transferring to the more true screen star Magazine; Dunaway had blazed her way prestigious Boston University, then finally onto the big screen and into our hearts. transferred to the University of Florida to Dunaway was born in 1941, an “army focus on her real love — theatre. brat” whose father was a career non- Clearly smart — she did the commissioned officer and her mother a unthinkable in turning down an offered housewife, in Bascom, Florida, a ‘town’ Fulbright Scholarship that would have let with a population of 106 in the 2006 study in any one of dozens of destinations census. In Florida’s pan-handle, Bascom worldwide — Dunaway would prove to be is just five miles from the Alabama border; a focused actress, some even termed her The morning after: In a moment famously captured by Terry O’ Neill, Faye Dunaway takes breakfast by the pool at the Beverley Hills Hotel. Surrounded by the day’s newspapers, she seems less than elated with her success at the previous night’s Academy Awards ceremony, where she won the 1976 Oscar 148 la femme for Best Actress in a Leading Role for Network. les iCÔnes

‘difficult’, who had exacting standards, both of herself and of others, that would lead to a reputation for being difficult to work with. That would come later, though; for the moment, Dunaway would focus on honing her craft and becoming a well-regarded stage actress. In 1962 she joined the American National Theatre and Academy, a body whose remit was primarily to train producers. Later that year, she landed the part of Sir Thomas More’s daughter in a Broadway production of A Man for all Seasons, the Robert Bolt-written play about Henry VIII’s former chancellor and close friend who refused to give his blessing to the monarch’s divorce of Catherine of Aragon when she failed to provide him with an heir. In the play, More is seen as a man of principle and great humanity, beloved by the people, in contrast to his venal and ambitious rivals such as the scheming Thomas Cromwell. Dunaway could scarcely have picked a better vehicle as debutant. She played opposite Paul Scofield (who would win an Oscar for the same role in the 1966 “I’m still the little girl production), and the Broadway run, which from the wrong side of the had transferred from the West End in London and had many of the key principal tracks who really didn’t players, receive pretty much widespread feel like she belonged.” praise from the critics. Dunaway had begun to be noticed from the get-go, an - faye dunaway astonishing lucky break for the then-21- year-old. More stage roles followed — she was especially noted in an off-Broadway production about Tammany Hall-era political sleaze in Brooklyn politics in the 1880s called Hogan’s Goat in 1965 — until she won her first screen role in 1965 in a subversive comedy called Hurry Sundown. The film was directed by a second-string Hollywood director, the Ukraine-born Otto Preminger. Preminger had garnered widespread praise and an Academy Award nomination for 1945’s Laura; it’s fair to say that his career since then had been pedestrian, even mediocre. The irony is that Hurry Sundown was to prove, critically, the last nail in the coffin of Preminger’s reputation — he was ridiculed for casting the accent-challenged Michael Caine as a US Southerner — while announcing the arrival of Dunaway as a big screen talent. While the film may not have been

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Dunaway seems to have had no ingénue nerves, and must have been a remarkably self- possessed young woman.

a success, it was a personal triumph She later revealed that she could not But it put Dunaway straight into the for Dunaway — she won a BAFTA for abide Preminger shouting at her on set, A-list of Hollywood royalty. That, of Top left: Dunaway as best newcomer and a Golden Globe saying “Once I am crossed, I am not very course, and her stellar performance in Vicki Anderson in The nomination for New Star of the Year. conciliatory.” The fallout was sufficient 1967’s Bonnie and Clyde. Based on the true Thomas Crown Affair It also announced her arrival as a diva, for her to refuse to work with Preminger story of Depression-era robbers (1968), as Bonnie Parker in 1967’s Bonnie a charge that would be levelled against again, who sued her for non-fulfilment Bonnie Parker and Clyde Barrow, and Clyde, and pictured her throughout her career. One wonders, of her five-film contract. They eventually this defined the beginning of the New with fellow actress though, how much that accusation is reached an out-of-court settlement in Hollywood Era in which taboos around Sharon Stone in 1980. down to the chauvinism of the time, with March 1968. Dunaway later said, “It cost sex and violence were not only broken, a focused woman being seen as “grasping” me a lot of money to not work for Otto they were comprehensively trashed. and “difficult” while equally tough male again. I regretted paying him but I thought The fizzing sexual tension between leads would be admired for being forceful he was awful.” Dunaway and Beatty on-screen thrilled and true to their craft. Dunaway seems to have had no audiences, and the additional rumours What is true, however, is that, even at ingénue nerves, and must have been a about Dunaway’s off-screen adulterous the young age of 24, Dunaway would make remarkably self-possessed young woman. relationship with Mastroianni only added it clear she was nobody’s fool. Bridging After swatting away the veteran director to the frisson of danger that crackled from Old Hollywood and New Hollywood, the Preminger, Dunaway took a part opposite the start. Dunaway had beaten established industry still signed up actors for multiple Marcello Mastroianni in 1968’s A Place for stars Natalie Wood, Jane Fonda and Cher film contracts; Preminger got Dunaway Lovers. Mastroianni had been a legendary to the role, and it was pivotal. It led to an onto a five-picture deal. The relationship ladies man throughout the 1950s and Academy Award nomination for best was not to work out; Preminger found her ’60s, so much so that his Italian wife left actress for Dunaway, who lost out on the spiky and argumentative, and is said to him. Dunaway lost little time in making night to Kathleen Hepburn. have regretted casting her. Dunaway, on him her lover, and began a tumultuous Her next move was equally fortuitous, the other hand, accused him of knowing relationship with the famous leading man when she was cast opposite another nothing about the process of acting — that would last three years until Dunaway, leading man, Steve McQueen, in 1968’s pretty gutsy for a twentysomething working exasperated with the Roman Catholic’s The Thomas Crown Affair. Sean Connery with an Academy Award-nominated refusal to divorce so he could marry her, had originally been slated for the lead but director of 30 years’ experience. gave him his marching orders. turned it down, a decision he would later

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DuN AWAY r ema r k e d, “I often say the last role I played that really touched me, and where I was able to access what I really am, was Bonnie, which is kinda sad...”

Dunaway with , at a gala in New York City in 1987 and below, with, Gerry Schatzberg and regret, and the part went to McQueen And it seemed for a few years that stuff of Hollywood legend. One story has Michael J. Pollard at a celebrity dinner for the as the title role of playboy millionaire Dunaway would be unable to reach the the director grabbing her by the hair and 40th Academy Awards. and heist mastermind. Dunaway was dizzying heights at which she started her yanking out locks. And another concerns cast as an insurance investigator tasked Hollywood career. The next six years her allegedly throwing a cup of urine in with recovering the money, and the on- would be marked by a string of obscure Polanski’s face — though any journalist screen game of cat-and-mouse between films that failed to set the world on fire foolish enough to question her about this the two still flickers and crackles today. (forgive the pun), with the exception of incident has been greeted by her getting (She would take a cameo role in the 1999 1974’s The Towering Inferno in which she up and walking out. remake starring Pierce Brosnan). The co-starred with Paul Newman and, once Nonetheless, stories of great sacrifice film championed the new split-screen again, Steve McQueen. And in 1975 she and pain to produce art are as old as technology, most memorably in an iconic would star opposite Robert Redford in the art itself; look at the battles between scene where Dunaway and McQueen play political thriller Three Days of the Condor, Michalangelo and Pope Julius II over each other at chess. which has stood the test of time. Some the painting of the Sistine Chapel, Dunaway had arrived, and cemented argue that Little Big Man with Dustin beautifully captured by Charlton Heston her image as an iconic Hollywood beauty Hoffman was the most successful of this and Rex Harrison in 1965’s The Agony and by the age of 26 on the strength of two of period, though she has said she remains the Ecstasy. The end result is one of the New Hollywood’s bravest and biggest proud of her work in the critically, if great films of the decade, and one for films. Such early success would surely be not commercially, acclaimed Puzzle of a which Dunaway received a best actress hard to match, with her role in Bonnie and Downfall Child in 1970. Academy Award nomination. Clyde especially leaving her a lot to live up Then in 1974 she appeared in Roman It was 1976’s Network that would finally to. The iconic shot of Dunaway in a beret Polanski’s Chinatown, in which she co- gift her the best actress Academy Award at graced countless magazines, and made starred with Jack Nicholson as seductress the third time of asking. A dark, satirical her the latest screen siren; years later, Evelyn Murray — along with Bonnie, the film about the Machiavellian pursuit Dunaway remarked, “I often say the last role she is most remembered for. It was of TV ratings by the US networks at any role I played that really touched me, and a difficult production; Jack Nicholson cost, Dunaway chilled and enchanted at where I was able to access what I really grew to dislike her, privately nicknaming the same time as ruthless, slightly mad am, was Bonnie, which is kinda sad when her ‘Dread’. And the battles between her (remember her Robin Williams tweet?) you think how early in my career that was.” and Polanski have grown to become the TV executive Diana Christensen.

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Snapshots of a life in the spotlight: Left, clockwise from top: Dunaway at a screening of Changing Hearts in 2003; with Benetton’s Giuseppe Fichera; photographed in 1987. Opposite: With Liza Minnelli and Elizabeth Taylor in 1979, photographed by Terry O’ Neill, Dunaway’s husband; Dunaway with Tony Curtis in 1968 on Capri.

from half a million to several million, and a lot of those have very interesting roles.” Dunaway would have only more huge role as the 1970s gave way to the 1980s, in the title role in Mommie Dearest, in which she played the unhinged Joan Crawford in the screen adaptation of Crawford’s daughter’s warts-and-all account of her childhood. It was a chilling and committed role, leaving us with the immortal line, shrieked at full decibel by Dunaway, “No wire hangers — EVER!” It split the critics; the influential Pauline Kael thought she excelled, while many others derided her performance as parody and over-indulgent. Dunaway herself later blamed this film for the dimming of the lights of her career; she moved to London in 1986 and turned to the stage, marrying in the process the British celebrity photographer Terry O’Neill, with whom she has a son, Liam. Recent years have seen a dwindling of her roles, and she sporadically gives interviews in which she says she is looking at moving into directing. For her When Howard Beale (played by Peter for thinking he has let her off lightly… legion of fans, though, she will always Finch), about to be sacked as a presenter, One of the hallmarks of the New be remembered for her trio of films that begins an on-screen nervous breakdown, Hollywood was that power was shifting earned her Academy Award nominations: rather than arrange medical treatment, away from the studios and towards Bonnie and Clyde, Chinatown and Network, Christensen notices a ratings spike and independent producers and their with which she won. She hurtled across persuades her bosses to be so irresponsible financial backers. The multiple film deals the Hollywood firmament like a meteor as to keep running the show. that the studios once offered were now the blazing, and her beauty and her talent will It is a measure of Dunaway’s icy stuff of legend. Dunaway, a clever woman, endure for many years to come. beauty that when her one-timer lover and saw this for herself saying of George Last word must surely go to Dunaway colleague William Holden says to her at the Lucas’s 1977 blockbuster, “Since Star Wars, herself: “It’s true, I did a lot of great end, “You are television incarnate, Diana, that film’s success led to bigger budgets, movies, and I’m happy. It was what it was, indifferent to suffering, insensitive to joy. more hardware, that the great movies like and now I think all of that has fed into All of life is reduced to the common rubble the ones I did, which were studio movies, where I am now, and I think it has taught of banality,” the viewer cannot be blamed are now independent movies. They range me a lot.”

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Original designs by Alexander McQueen have become contemporary collectibles; as in the art world, the death of a designer invariably pushes up prices of his or her work.

Alexander t the end of 2014, a selection of Alexander McQueen Sotheby’s auctioneer who founded her own house specialising in the garments went under the hammer at Kerry Taylor sale of vintage fashion in 2003. “There were things from ‘Highland Auctions, an auction house in Bermondsey, east London, Rape’ [McQueen’s seminal and controversial collection from 1995, Athat specialises in rare, historical clothing. And it’s all available for which despite accusations of misogyny, was inspired by England’s at auction Alexander Fury explains how purchase, like the world’s greatest museum gift shop. relationship with Scotland], the first ever bumsters… right the creations by Alexander McQueen There was something timely about this McQueen-heavy auction way through [to] beautiful haute-couture pieces from .” have become fashion legend (there were other designers’ work up for grabs, too) given that the The Alexander McQueen for Givenchy couture tartan dress with

London leg of ‘Savage Beauty’, the blockbuster exhibition charting engraved effect silvered buttons sold for £13,000 (Dhs20,084) while e the trajectory of the designer’s career, is due to open at the Victoria the bumsters sold for £3,500 (Dhs20,081). opl w Pe and Albert Museum early this year. Taylor stages several auctions a year, but two are dubbed ‘Passion ie rv The sale collection was a micro-retrospective of sorts, spanning For Fashion’ and consist of the finest examples that have crossed te e In McQueen’s raw, early London work, through his time at Givenchy, the threshold over the previous six months. Her buyers include t / Th n increasing sophistication and commercial success, and on to his later numerous international museum collections, as well as private e nd e p Paris shows supported by the financial heft of the Kering group. collectors, and fashion enthusiasts. Which raises questions about e

“There was a really good cross section,” says Kerry Taylor, a former the reasons that people buy these clothes. To wear, or simply to e Ind y / Th r Fur e nd a x e Al

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have? For vanity or to covet? zip and a kick-pleat that’s beginning to tear. sides, tugged down to sit lower on the Buying fashion like this is a little like Neither has the all-important McQueen hips. The seams were sealed closed with buying a rare, incredibly expensive bottle label stitched into the waistband, nor gaffer-tape. However, on another level the of wine. Uncork it and it could taste like the polish, precision or even beauty of prices for these pieces seem remarkably vinegar, as well as immediately losing all McQueen’s later work. That’s because low when compared to their importance its value. So, perversely, the oenophile will McQueen made them himself, on a as pieces of McQueen iconography. “I’m keep their bottle corked, prized simply domestic sewing machine, one-off pieces honoured to have them,” says Taylor. “I for its presence rather than for its taste. for friends or early catwalk shows that were would hope that we would have interest Likewise, fashion collectors may buy these little sold (if at all). You can’t get rarer and from British institutions.” garments purely for their scarcity and more historical than that. Those institutions should be interested significance on a larger scale, rather than McQueen’s work was consistently – and hopefully are – because the for the fact they’ll look good on the social extra-ordinary – beauty, however, is in ‘bumsters,’ and the selection of pieces circuit. That said, when I had attended the eye of the beholder. Take the ‘bumster’ from ‘Highland Rape’, are evocative a quiet pre-auction viewing, Taylor’s trousers, which McQueen designed in of an entire period in British fashion, showroom was filled with various London the early 1990s. For the uninitiated, what and culture. McQueen’s trousers were vintage dealers and a well-dressed Middle those entailed were hipsters pushed to an extreme example of a low-slung Eastern couple who pawed through that an extreme, a waistband falling so low on waistband, later commercialised as the Chanel and Hermès cache as well as a the torso that the crease of the wearer’s ‘hipsters’ that dominated the high street clutch of Azzedine Alaïa garments. Most buttocks were exposed at the back. To and high fashion throughout the 1990s. of the items were barely three years old, McQueen, the bottom of the spine was the And McQueen’s work finds a reflection and a fraction of the usual price. most erotic part of the body. The press only in the output of the ‘Sensation’ school Above and beyond the idea of “to saw the similarity between McQueen’s of – his visceral wear, or not to wear”, Taylor’s wares raise more fundamental questions. Well, fundamental for those of us concerned with seam allowances and spray-starch. The majority of the garments Namely, what makes a really great piece of fashion? What qualifies its place in are packed tight on rails, Chanel the pantheon of the greats? Scarcity? jostling Dior, crammed against an The hand of the designer themselves? Or their creative vision being fully 18th-century frock coat and an expressed, without the limitations of unnamed mid-Fifties sable. budget, regardless of who actually stitches the stuff? “It’s not all just in a name,” says Taylor. “It has to be a complete ensemble, it has to be from a very early rare design and sloppy, tugged-down trousers fashion, which included transparent collection. Or it just has to be beautiful – exposing a builder’s bum. plastic bodices sandwiching tapeworms extraordinary in some way.” “They’re not pretty,” admits Taylor, against models’ flesh are an aesthetic and So what is it that makes the McQueen speaking of the trousers. They’re really conceptual counterpart to pieces by Jake pieces that Taylor is selling extraordinary, badly made, they’re really rough.” The and Dinos Chapman and . rare and historical? Well, a few of them trousers were made in 1992 following I’m not saying these trousers are art, but aren’t, especially. Some are simply McQueen’s graduation from Central they come from a similar cultural crucible. beautiful pieces of fashion. These include Saint Martins, for a friend of McQueen, The other items for sale were a couple of commercial variations a drag artist whose performance name interesting for different reasons. At the on dresses from ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, the is Ms Trixie Bellair. The pair was the viewing day I attended, potential buyers final womenswear collection shown by prototype: McQueen borrowed them pored over the lots. It is a very different McQueen before his death in 2010. Said back to copy the ‘bumster’ pattern for his experience from the reserved, rarefied variations would have hung in stores across first catwalk show, spring /summer 1994’s atmosphere of a museum exhibition of the world (37 directly operated stores and ‘Nihilism’. Their original estimate (£800- fashion. The majority of the garments are franchises, according to this year’s figures) £1,000) was incongruous given the actual packed tight on rails, Chanel jostling Dior, and been bought by thousands of women. quality (poor) of the garment itself, their crammed against an 18th-century frock They stand in marked contrast to an final selling price a surprise. The vinyl coat and an unnamed mid-Fifties sable. apparently nondescript pair of trousers. skirt, shown on the catwalk as part of that The mood is halfway between a jumble sale They’re narrow, made from grey suiting, controversial ‘Highland Rape’ collection, and the wardrobe of an especially dazzling sit low on the mannequin and are crudely is also basic. It’s been mistreated – the oligarch’s refined mistress. A selection of constructed. Then there’s a plastic vinyl slashes on the hips are from the show, garments are showcased on mannequins skirt with its hips slashed open, a busted when the garment was opened at the – the really stellar stuff, such as a sweeping

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selling McQueen,” she says, of her own- name operation. “I was the first to try and sell McQueen ever at auction. I had some men’s clothing which I tried to sell when I was at Sotheby’s – probably [in] the late 1990s, or 2000.” She also sold Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano pieces, both of which also featured in the auction. The Galliano is a swagged frock-coat in gabardine, designed when both Galliano’s workroom and show were still based in London in the late 1980s; the Westwood includes a rare entire outfit from the designer’s 1987 ‘Harris Tweed’ collection, complete with fabric crown. Museums and collectors alike would clamour for that. There are, of course, those garments that any collector, and Taylor herself, would clamour for. “A Schiaparelli, from the ‘Circus’ collection,” she states, immediately. “I’d love to get a piece from Dior’s first collection… I’d love a wonderful Poiret. I’d like something by Chanel, daywear, knitted… It just goes on and on. The most valuable things are a combination of the best designer for that period, at their height; the best condition; the best example, with a label. And preferably owned by someone famous.” That said, some designers – such as McQueen – will always be collectable, although popularity waxes and wanes according to external circumstances. Exhibitions and label revivals cause both interest and prices to spike. “When they had the exhibition in New York, I got £65,000 (Dhs373,603)for a piece of ready- to-wear,” says Taylor, incredulously. The issue with McQueen’s bumsters is that, for all their significance in the canon of his work, they aren’t especially spectacular. No museum could build an exhibit around them in, say, the way they could with the infamous Vivienne coat from her 1938 For her part, Taylor has always been Westwood “super-elevated” platforms ‘Zodiac’ collection (a jacket from the same convinced of the validity – ideologically that caused Naomi Campbell to tumble at collection went for £132,000 (Dhs758,078) and financially – of fashion and textiles her autumn/winter 1993 show. The V&A at Taylor’s auction in May) or pieces by Yves at auction. In 1986, she re-established made those a tourist attraction, selling Saint Laurent and . But even costume and textiles auctions at the New posters featuring just the shoes. these can be manhandled off for you to Bond Street saleroom of Sotheby’s – Nevertheless, Taylor offers a persuasive twist inside out, or even try on. A number subsequently selling garments owned by argument. “We won’t always have these,” of Taylor’s customers purchase garments Maria Callas and the Duke and Duchess she says, referring to the clothes that to wear: there’s a commercially canny of Windsor. Her auction house specialises cemented McQueen’s reputation. “They selection of Chanel and Hermès handbags in nothing but, and has sold garments are going to dry up. We will look back at 163 London’s Victoria set to open the bidding that no museum whose prior owners include Audrey sales catalogues like this and think ‘God, and Albert Museum would look at twice, but that many women Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and Diana, do you remember when...?’ This is an will be showing would pay top dollar to own. Princess of Wales. “We’re famous for excellent time to be investing.” ‘Savage Beauty’ a full retrospective of Alexander McQueen, from March 14 to July 19.

162 la femme 165 Backstage at the Miu Miu runway show for the Cruise 2015 collection, the look was natural and earthy, a trend sure to be lighting up new trends in beauty.

lalooks, beauté trends and reviews AGENDA

labe fresh-face d andbeauté beautiful this februa ry, says surena chandÉ

fash iona ble foundation Saint Laurent pairs with Cara Delevingne for the Le Teint Encre De Peau campaign. The foundation, inspired by ink, Star product glides on effortlessly to form a flawless, even Guerlain’s pretty pearls have complexion with long-lasting results. The bottle been transformed into a mosaic- itself is a collectible, drawing influences from filled compact. Bursting with the Yves Saint Laurent 'Le Smoking' tuxedo, colour, the Météorites Compact Smooth with its bold black lines contrasted with gold. is a make-up bag staple with operator www.ysl.com pressed pearls, and a delicious For a luminous scent that may remind you of a look, Clarins True particular childhood-favourite, Radiance foundation violet sweets, With its stunning ticks all the beauty outer packaging, the compact boxes. Reflecting comes in three shades perfect light on the surface for an assortment of skin tones. without appearing Dhs275, www.guerlain.com oily, the light formula consisting of moringa seed moisturises skin and masks dull complexions. It also acts as an anti- Stamp of pollution shield and approval features SP15, ideal Containing almost every for ladies in the city. make-up essential and Luscious lids Dhs190, Clarins featuring Monsieur Dior’s A dramatic eye is the star, with Dolce & Gabbana’s 'Perfect personal coat of arms on Mono' cream eye colour. The intense, long-lasting pigment and the warm coral blush, the soft formula allows you to blend with other shades to brand new Dior 'Kingdom of create a sumptuous look. Perfect Mono comes in eight Colours' palette is part of the matte and six pearl shades, and though it’s hard to spring 2015 collection. Inside pick a favourite, Dahlia’s at the top of our list. Dhs153. you'll find black eyeliner, www.dolcegabbana.com blushers, eye shadows and lip glosses in an assortment of fun, glamorous colours. The palette is perfect for top-ups on the move and magically encapsulates spring. Dhs378, www.dior.com Under cover Disguise under-eye circles and blemishes with this dual-ended Red-hot exclusive correcting pen, brand new With just 250 in existence, Baccarat’s from . The larger Rouge 540 perfume marks the perfume oval-shaped end is a pink- house’s 250th anniversary. '540' refers based tone to contrast with to the temperature that the molten the dark pigmentation under crystal must reach in order to turn the eyes, while the fine-tipped brand’s hallmark red. The highly limited cheeky detail yellow concealer is perfect for edition bottle features 160 facets, So pretty you’ll want to buy two – one to use and while the fragrance contained inside targeting imperfections on comprises blood orange, oak moss, one to be left untouched. Chanel’s Jardin de the move. Available in three lavender and sage, drops of which Chanel blush has raised camellias in contrasting colour varieties, you’ll wonder are to be placed behind the ear with hues of pink. Blend over your face for a fresh, how you lived without one. the crystal pipette provided. Price on natural look. Dhs220, Paris Gallery request. Baccarat Boutique Dhs231, www.chanel.com

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a little touch of elegance redefine your beauty with these luxurious products

photography: ARJAY NAVARRO // STYLING: STUART ROBERTSON

LImited edition liP SHIMMER IN ‘MOONlight’, Dhs245, Tom Ford at Paris Gallery.

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1. 2.

1. hydra beauty micro sÉrum Dhs444, Chanel at leading beauty counters. 2. eau de parfum, Dhs425, Narciso Rodriguez, leading beauty counters.

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5. 3.

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1. nail lacquer in ‘naked’, Dhs162, TOM FORD. 2. Givenchy Prismissime Mat & Glow Face and Eye Powder in 9 colours, Dhs230, Givenchy at Paris Gallery. 3. ombre matte eyeshadow in ‘nude beige’, Dhs108, Clarins. 4. rouge eclat lipstick in ‘passion red’, Dhs119, Clarins. 5. LA PETITE ROBE NOIRE HAIR MIST (30ml), Dhs216, Guerlain. 6. noir couture waterproof mascara in ‘black velvet’, Dhs170, Givenchy at Paris Gallery. All products available at leading beauty counters throughout UAE. Prices and colours may vary slightly from those published.

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Behind themask Avant-garde cosmetics brand Illamasqua holds an alternative stance on beauty. Its founder Alex Box tells La Femme that the woman of today has many faces.

By JOLA CHUDY

very so often, a brand comes along with a genuinely original point of view. It takes a bold stance, stakes a claim on the land and ruffles Ethe feathers of the status quo in the process. Illamasqua is one such brand. Launched in 2008, the cosmetics and beauty brand has become a tearaway success story. It has become beloved of the alternative fashion crowd, edgy society beauties, and, if its cultish campaigns are anything to go by, a few painted theatre escapees to boot. But why all the drama? Make-up tends to riff on the same themes in rotation: in winter, and especially around the festive months, colours look to a predictable palette of deep reds, plums and sparkling golden shimmers. Springtime, meanwhile, is all about the fresh-faced, pastel beauty of the woman who definitely did not overdo it on the party circuit back in December. And indeed, beauty trends, much like ideal of beauty itself, tend not to deviate too far from expected parameters. And then, along comes Illamasqua to upset the apple cart. After debuting in Selfridges in London’s Oxford Street, in the biggest retail space ever awarded to an unknown brand, the make-up company has grown

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ia major player. From the brand’s a theatrical personality, with her personal “It’s a classic that will be whispered about expressive beauty campaigns, to its quirky style and art school career background. for years to come. The perfect shade, individuality, it has cemented a reputation Box grew up in the UK, studying Fine texture, weight and opacity. It’s also the for ‘coolness’ (awarded CoolBrands status Art at Chelsea College of Art and Design. only foundation I have ever been able to in 2011) and a legion of offbeat admirers, Her installation-based work challenged wear. I’m a consumer too and am in love for whom the theatrical is welcomed as the and explored the relationship between with it, thrilled to finally have my perfect default setting. the body, environment and desire to a shade and glow,” notes Box. On the brand’s web site, the biography pure form. As well as her site-specific The brand’s single-colour eye is summarised succintly: “From its roots installations, Alex has exhibited in shadows and ‘pure pigments’, housed in in the illicit 1920s Berlin club scene, to numerous international art galleries. Her their distinctively pinched square boxes, a rich heritage in make-up for film and career in cosmetics has included make- are also a sell-out success. With names theatre, Illamasqua takes its inspiration up shoots for Vogue, Dazed and Confused, such as ‘liquid metal’, products such as from members of the ‘alternative scenes’ ID, Another Magazine and Stylist, and the solid-gold eye colour that promise for whom self-expression is paramount. she has a Who’s Who of celebrity clients the most superior metallic covering Our highly-pigmented products provide including Courtney Love, Azealia Banks, available, garner breathless reviews consumers and make-up artists alike with Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss. She has from admirers. “They give a beautiful the products and inspiration to ensure they created bespoke looks for Lady Gaga, an metallic finish that still manages to be can express themselves, whoever they are icon of the alternative worldview. Her bright - most eyeshadows with metallic and whatever look they want to achieve.” work for Illamasqua (which means ‘the finishes are sort of dull or dark with Illamasqua’s idiosyncratic creative a bit of shine- but these deliver director, Alex Box, offers the beauty both intense pigmentation with a industry an offbeat viewpoint of what beautiful metallic shine,” notes one constitutes beauty. customer review. Alex Box presents “I believe all women are our Collections include names such an offbeat approach customers,” she says. “We truly are as ‘The Sacred Hour’, ‘Glamore’, to make-up with Illamasqua, a beauty without age, race or gender boundaries. ‘Paranormal’ and, the newest, brand that redefines We believe in the empowerment of spirit, ‘Facets’. “Facets portrays many the parameters of being the best possible self and because sides, like you. We are not one traditional beauty. of this our following is wildly eclectic. thing, never one mood, we are We never court celebrity endorsements, forever changing. The word stems celebrities are like anyone else - human from early 17th century French and emotional and are Illamasqua fans by ‘facette’ used to describe the many their own choosing. We chose not to single faces and sides encapsulated by people out as we feel everyone is equal.” looks and feeling you can achieve Appealing to the ‘bolder person hiding from a palette of possibilities,” inside all of us’, self-confidence and says Box. “When you’re stuck in acceptance of a wider definition of beauty a make-up rut, ask someone else are at the heart of the brand. to do your make-up. A friend or “For me, I think confidence is the best mask’ in Spanish – the brand’s founders a make-up artist, someone who will see trick in the book. Walking into a room are originally from Spain) includes a set you differently and introduce new ways with your shoulders back, head high and of new products each season as well as the of application or different colours that a knowing look in your eye is the most brand’s regular stable of beauty musts. you wouldn’t normally use. A different alluring thing you can apply,” notes Box. The Skin Base Foundation has found a hand will always bring new shape or “Find that make-up signature that loyal following, billed as ‘the holy grail shade to your routine and seeing yourself only you do. It’s like when you sign your of foundations’ for its magical covering differently will inspire you to try new name; you only have one signature. It up properties. Inspired by the cult Asian things on your own.” should be the same in make-up - finding market Beauty Balm creams, Skin Base Certainly, with such a dizzying that colour, shape, tone or moment that is Foundation is blendable, and like the array of products, from ‘shattered star’ your unique statement. Make-up comes entire Illamasqua foundation range, nail varnishes, to complexion sets, from the soul and lives on even when it’s is undetectable in a professional HD eye palettes, bases, and everything in wiped away.” environment. Suitable for all skin types, between, there is plenty to keep the That’s a typically bold statement from it smoothes, softens and conditions your Illamasqua woman occupied at her the creative director who is something of skin whilst providing natural coverage. dressing table.

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nature and nurture The French skincare house harnesses the goodness of plant extracts with the most exacting scientific advances. La Femme discovers the science of beauty, with Sisley’s Nicolas Chesnier

by mia xu

hen Hubert d’Ornano created since that time, from constantly pushing the Sisley in 1976, he introduced a boundaries of what the beauty industry can Wpioneering skincare concept: achieve, right down to making sure their logo take advantage of technology to make use of remains an instantly recognisable marque the best that plants and essential oils have representing the family firm. to offer. This concept has since become a “Hubert d’Ornano brought the idea of standard in the beauty industry. phyto-cosmetology to the forefront of the The d’Ornano family, (from top left), Philippe, Christine, Hubert A visionary entrepreneur, Count Hubert beauty industry and it was one of the biggest and Isabelle. In 1976, Hubert and his family have been closely involved in discoveries of the past 50 years. Today, we founded Sisley with a novel every aspect of their family-owned business seen many brands turning to the scientific idea: relying on technological advancements to harness the best of plants and essential oils in beauty products.

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use of natural plant extracts,” says result; but we don’t want side effects,” things. The first is bringing the maximum Chesnier. Under the impetus of the says Chesnier. At the core of Sisley’s results without adverse side effects. The d’Ornanos and their teams, the company scientific rigour is the affinity between second is the pleasure of application. It’s has demonstrated its excellence as a people and plants. Indeed, Sisley draws important that people are happy to use prestigious beauty brand for nearly four inspiration from the very essence of the product, because you need to apply decades. In five continents, in over 90 plants. Their vital energy, potential for it regularly to get results. People love the countries, Sisley has been a pioneer in regeneration and adaptation, defence brand not just because of the results, but phyto-cosmetology and has, at the same systems and fragrances have all been also the pleasure of application.” time, maintained its independence. used to develop skincare products. In the field of skincare, Sisley’s Keeping a keen eye on the latest Sisley blends plant extracts to achieve a expertise is renowned. Sisley’s products scientific advances, the research teams perfect synergy of the active ingredients. comprise an overall approach to care, at Sisley ensure the development of Every Sisley product is created using in which training and advice play an highly effective skincare products. Two active botanical ingredients that are essential role. “We want to understand of Hubert and Isabelle’s children work selected for their complementary action. our customers’ needs and find the best alongside him: Philippe as Chairman It can take the Sisley researchers several product for that person. We are among and Christine as Managing Director, as years of experimenting before the the brands with the highest loyalty rate does Nicolas Chesnier, Sisley’s Regional final product is ready to be put on the because we recommend the right product Managing Director for Asia. He’s been department store shelf. That, explains for the right person.” with the family since 2004. Chesnier, is because achieving quality is This is also seen in the brand’s make- “We take time to develop the products. a multi-tiered process. up range. A continuation of skincare Some have taken up to ten years to reach in the daytime, Sisley make-up the market. It is a principle that we don’t products give skin a fresh and rush to launch [a new product] if we think healthy glow when in contact with it isn’t ready,” says Chesnier. the skin – even when worn all Sisley’s beauty elixirs are assembled day. The make-up line maintains in its ultra-modern factory in Blois, For Sisley, the skin’s moisture and comfort, Loir-et-Cher in France, and in 2011, the skincare is and boosts its defences against company unveiled its Centre for Research external aggressions, all the while and Operations in Saint-Ouen- about two boasting a range of colours in l’Aumône. This centre is noteworthy in things. The first pretty palettes and jars. its own right as being an ecologically is bringing the “We see make-up as a advanced building. It is the first site in continuation of skincare; when you France to be certified compliant with ma x imum r esults wear make-up, it shouldn’t be cause Haute Qualité Environnementale for without adverse for concern but instead repreent both its offices and warehouses. On the side effects. an opportunity to continue the roof of the Saint-Ouen-l’Aumône site skincare throughout the day.” is the largest photovoltaic power plant The second is The fragrances of Sisley are an in the Northern Loire region. Covering the pleasure of expression of an equally holistic a surface of 36,000 square metres and philosophy. A blend of natural made up of 6,556 photovoltaic modules, it application. ingredients and plant extracts, produces all of the energy for the offices its perfumes are the ultimate and saves 44 tonnes of carbon dioxide expression of the d’Ornanos’ emissions every year. dream. Each of these exceptional Sisley launches each new product perfumes has its own story to tell. following a painstaking process of “We select the best type of plant in its “It’s a category where creativity can go development and testing that ensures its category, the most effective part of the to the highest level. You are totally free effectiveness – this is validated at every plant for the problem to be treated, the in what you want to do with the scents stage by experts and dermatologists. country or region where this plant grows and bottles. We see perfumes as an Toxicology researchers and experts best and finally, the plant is harvested at art,” said Chesnier. Sisley’s perfume work together on the selection of the time when it will yield the most effective bottles are miniature works of art ingredients and the in-depth evaluation active ingredients,” says Chesnier. in themselves; Sculptor Bronislaw of each formula. To ensure that all Sisley With this principle at its core, Sisley’s Krzysztof designed the bottle of Eau products are free from harmful effects, creations – from skincare and make-up du Soir, for example, and with a rich clinical tests are carried out in both to perfumes and spa treatments – offer and complex olfactory composition, the company’s laboratories and at an a mix of effective functions, sensuous the fragrances housed inside represent independent institute. textures and soothing natural fragrances. an exceptional essence of balance “We want to have a very effective “For Sisley, skincare is about two and harmony.

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ou may recognise her for her roles in the Harry Potter films, Gossip YGirl and 127 Hours, and now chic French actress Clémence Poésy is back as the face of Chloe’s newest fragrance. And, if you happen to be experiencing an olfactory sense of déjà vu, you’d be quite correct: it’s the second time around that the Gallic beauty has fronted a fragrance for the French brand. “I feel very grateful for Chloé s loyalty,” she says with a smile. “It’s rare and precious, to be [so well] accompanied as you grow up. The loyalty of this house that I love so much [has] really touched me.” Founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, an Egyptian émigré in Paris, Chloé rejected the stiff ‘New Look’ formality of 1950s fashion, offering instead a softer viewpoint that embraced body-conscious clothes made from fine fabrics. This luxury version of prêt-à-porter – Aghion coined the phrase as well as the concept – was unique for its time in that previously luxury was associated with couture. Since that time, the brand has seen A new some of fashion’s leading heavyweights at its helm including Karl Lagerfeld Stella McCartney, and Phoebe Philo. Today led by Clare Waight Keller, who cut her teeth at Gucci and Ralph Lauren, the Chloé loo k, vision of womanhood is defined as strong yet feminine. “I think that Clare has captured the essence of Chloé and knows exactly how a new to drape women in dresses that tell stories, capes that protect them, coats that make them stronger,” says Poésy. “She wraps her women in a poetry yet nothing ever is love too serious.” French actress and model With her ethereal beauty, Poésy seems Clémence Poésy returns to to be a perfect fit for the whimsical, Chloé as the face of its new feminine brand, which is presumably why fragrance, Love Story she has been asked to return, four years after she first debuted as their perfume by jola chudy

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muse and spokesperson. Between 2008 “Fragrance is one of the ways that we and 2010 she was one of three faces of present ourselves to the world. It is what Chloé perfumes, alongside Chloë Sévigny remains of us in the air once we leave a and Anya Rubik. room. I like having a perfume that people “I have always loved the Chloé woman,” recognise, that people remember, a scent adds Poésy. “It’s a non-aggressive that is mine. I have a perfume that I wear if femininity; fascinating, luminous, and I’m playing more masculine characters – I dancing. There is a poetry in her, mixed first wore it when I was working on Joan of with energy, invention and humour.” Arc, it’s like a little shield. Yet I also love the That sense of romance and playfulness is freshness of the Chloé fragrance, there is reflected in the new campaign. The Love something very joyful and fresh, a summer Clemence Poésy Story bottle is inspired by the love locks spirit, about it.” stars in the new that line Paris’s Pont des Arts, while the Chloé Eau de Parfum is available now at campaign for Chloé’s most romantic fragrance features notes of neroli, orange leading beauty counters, priced at Dhs390 for fragrance to date. blossom, jasmine stephanotis and cedar. 50ml; Dhs495 for 75ml

184 la femme 185 the art of living well 186 On the virtually uninhabited Gaya Island, just off Kota Kinabalu on Sabah, Malaysian Borneo, two private 5-star resorts offer tranquil getaways with marine protection at heart. Gayana Eco Resort and Raya Island Resort are secluded island hideaways set on a coral reef island. Total privacy in luxury villas backed by tropical jungle and framed by the South China Sea, this resort represents a truly exceptional experience. savoir vivre

Equine pursuits Immerse yourself in Arabian The Haciendas tradition with horseback there are few places that make one dream as much riding at Al Maha as the Haciendas of Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico One of the UAE’s most beautiful desert resorts, Al Maha sits like a desert rose amidst the dunes. Deep within the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, Al Maha is surrounded by the bountiful wildlife of these seemingly inhospitable sands. Discover the hidden beauty of this unique and special landscape through an unforgettable journey on horseback. Between now and the end of May, the resort is offering a package that includes a horse ride in the morning and one in the afternoon inside the reserve, access to the main pool and spa, and lunch. Other activities at the resort include nature walks, four-wheel drive desert safaris and of course the opportunity to relax and unwind in close proximity to the stunning desert surroundings. www.al-maha.com

A tropical taste of barefoot grandeur, drenched in colour. Mexico's famous Haciendas represent luxury a bygone era. a unique beach escape

Situated on Natai Beach on the Andaman Sea moments from Phuket Airport is a secluded, emozon, Uayamon, Puerta Campeche, Santa Rosa, San a morning walk in one of the gardens overflowing with flowers boutique paradise that offers guests a home- Jose… magical places, magical names. There are few places and plants, or following the sun’s path from room to room, as from-home experience where every aspect is Tthat make one dream as much as the Haciendas in Yucatan, it illuminates objects, paintings and furniture imported from infused with pared-back luxury. The one-of- with their arcades, terraces and colonnades that create an ambience Europe. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the Haciendas represented a-kind Iniala Beach house boasts ten rooms of exotic, remote luxury. Everything gives the feeling of returning another world. Some were abandoned for decades before coming over three beachfront villas, and everything is to a time when the grand owners made their homes in these tropical back to life. Today, the old house, school, chapel, and dispensary tailored to fit its clientele, who include some of z

palaces. The gardens, teeming with plants like a jungle, recall the and ‘pay house’ where salaries were distributed, have all been it Hollywood’s most famous faces. There’s fine hw

wild, luxuriant Yucatan. The golden ochre of the roads one has to transformed into upmarket, luxuriously appointed guest rooms. In sc dining in the form of three-Michelin starred travel to get there pays homage to the ancient land of the Maya and these rooms, it is hard not to think of the passionate owners who Aziamend, a fully integrated wellness centre,

its treasures, in the legendary cities of Uxmal, Campeche, Merida, made these resurrections possible and those who walked there in ette Grou and the rooms, which have been individually Izamal, and so many other marvels. They provide much more than the 17th century, who also loved these places, when there were no designed by some of the world’s leading artists,

hotels, each one a true experience, every time. They are also an extraordinary swimming pools, when the red ochre of the walls on / Late Ev offer guests a truly unforgettable retreat in

opportunity to discover the Mexico of the 17th and 18th centuries, and the columns had not yet been invaded by the jungle. It is a truly ecti which to unwind and escape.

to be immersed in a place and time of inconceivable luxury, without unique experience. y Coll www.iniala.com

needing to tour extensively. One can be completely content taking www.thehaciendas.com uxur e L Th

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pen since 2004 and celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, Othe Bulgari Hotel in Milan is tucked away in a somewhat enviable position; privately and discretely situated at the end of a drive, just a stone’s throw away from the luxury fashion and design avenue of Montenapoleone. Occupying an 18th-century palazzo, the reformed building designed by Antonio Citterio and Partners has taken on a new lease of life to provide the very essence of the Bulgari Hotel - contemporary and functionally elegant, appealing to those seeking a cool and calming environment suitable for either business or leisure. The modern lines of the exterior and interior design match a décor that is airy but tranquil in Hidden tone, set against a solid architecture from a sumptuous mix of materials that include marble, teak, oak and granite. A designer hotel certainly, but with 58 rooms and What could beGem a more fashionable place to stay, than a hotel suites it is a bit more than just ‘boutique’, the one-of-a-kind property is filled with synonymous with contemporary style, right in the heart of Milan spaces indoors and out that allow visitors to find a memorable spot to relax. by dean o’grady Outside, the secluded garden is a focal point for relaxed meetings in the day and social gatherings at night. Bordering the city’s botanical gardens and designed by noted landscape architect Sophie Agata Ambroise, the garden has a number of differing areas, each with its own distinct character. Breakfast, lunch and daytime coffee allow a leisurely feel against the green natural scape, with the city hub seemingly a distance away. From early evening, the calm gently and almost unnoticeably transforms into a sophisticated buzz - the terraced outside lounge area decked with cushioned seating is a particularly popular spot for guests and the impeccably well-dressed Milanese alike, to enjoy drinks and aperitivo, meet with friends and people-watch. For those that choose to dine, the cuisine does not disappoint. Naturally modern, Italian, but also simple, seasonal, and beautifully executed. Sample mains

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Rooms such as The Special Suite (right) offer guests an unmatched hotel experience, with discreet Italian style and relaxed yet precise service ensuring a relaxing stay.

include tuna cheek with mashed tomato is equipped with every little thing that glass façade and illuminates the gold- sunlight pours in and aubergine, suckling pig with fava you may need, including a Nespresso, tiled pool and emerald-green glass through the glass beans and wild mushroom, and salmon iPod dock and a Tivoli clock radio. In the hammam. You could be anywhere in the with pea cream, chard and raspberries. evenings, turn down service includes a world. A large number of treatments to façade and illuminates The cheese fondue ravioli is legendary. stainless steel thermos of herbal tea, and either stimulate, invigorate, or relax, Overlooking either the gardens the bath is softly illuminated by scented vary from jet lag recovery massages to the gold-tiled pool or courtyard, rooms and suites are votive candles. The penthouse suite, utterly indulgent stone therapy. For those and emerald-green consistent of the functional and efficient of which I didn’t unfortunately get to that are unsure, therapists are on hand theme that is found throughout the experience, enjoys a private terrace and and happy to discuss guests’ individual glass hammam. property and its facilities, but are not a superb view of the Duomo. needs in order to make personalised without touches of decadence - as Downstairs, the lobby at the Bulgari recommendations. exemplified by the teak four post-bed is an inviting space where many guests Throughout the property, the staff are frames. On entry, the oak parquet choose to spend some time. Leather relaxed and friendly in a typically Milanese floors give guest rooms a natural feel, couches and chairs are arranged close manner, but perform with professional and folding glass doors lined with brass to an ethanol flickering fireplace that and efficient diligence that is a seamless screens separate the bedroom from becomes a focal point of social activity match for the modernity and personality of the bath and sitting room, whilst still in the winter months. At any time it the hotel and its environment. allowing light to pass. Attention to detail provides a casual area for relaxation and As a concept, The Bulgari Hotel has is apparent, but certainly not in a boastful browsing magazines and guidebooks, proven to be very successful and for just manner. Furnishings are tasteful and as well a suitable location for meeting cause. The quality of product and delivery in every manner high quality as would others before heading off into the city. of services without fuss or unnecessary be expected, right down to the heavy If there is time that you want to be away formality is a welcome addition to the oak clothes hangers that hang in the from the city and immerse yourself even luxury sector. In addition to properties in wardrobe. Serene tones of brown, beige more into relaxation, then the promise London and Bali, the next Bulgari Hotel and slate reaffirm the natural theme and of the Bulgari spa does not disappoint. opening is scheduled for 2015 in Shanghai, the oversized free-standing carved stone From the ambience of the surrounds, the to which we will look forward to with bath tub affords views to the garden elegance in design, through to the range considerable anticipation; perhaps Dubai below, making the most of the hotel’s and delivery of available treatments, will be next on Bulgari’s list of cities to leafy setting. Bulgari bath amenities the total experience is that of complete enhance with a beautiful hotel? are provided (of course!) and the suite escapism; sunlight pours in through the www.bulgarihotels.com

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five-star

Whether it’s a Daniel Libeskind piece or waterlilies by Monet, incredible artworks are setting hotels apart from their competition, writes Claire Wrathall

Among the buzz phrases gaining exhibition of works by the likes of Sigmar currency in the hospitality industry Polke, Daniel Libeskind, Richard Serra, is the frankly absurd, though equally Ellsworth Kelly, Sol Le Witt, Christian compelling, assertion that “art is the new Marclay, Darren Almond and more that food”. Where once hotels vied with each add to the pleasure of staying there. other to recruit starry chefs and offer Perhaps, then, it was inevitable that e

ever more recherché “food and beverage an award would be launched for the Best opl w Pe

concepts”, now what every hotel wants is Art Experience in a Hotel, the creation ie rv

an art collection. of a trend-forecasting organisation te Mostly this is just a euphemism for called Leading Culture Destinations e In ph /Th

a motley assemblage of pictures on its that numbers among its founders artists, a 195 r Jack the Dog, by eg l walls. Just occasionally, as at the new Park designers and a former director of e Fabienne Arietti, y T Hyatt, New York for instance, it amounts exhibitions at the Royal Academy. “Art l welcomes visitors to to something important, in its case an adds another layer to the customer e Dai Dubai’s Ritz-Carlton in DIFC. The hotel ll / Th a has an enviable art h at

r collection on rotating

e W loan from The Opera r ai Gallery in DIFC. Cl

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experience,” says its German founder Ando (better known for his galleries exhibitions and craft bespoke itineraries and CEO Florian Wupperfeld, latterly than his hotels), its rooms incorporate focused on specific interests, as well as creative and media director of the Soho works by, among others, Josef Albers, provide insight into the city’s art scene House Group. “Great art helps shape the Bernd and Hilla Becher, Cai Guo- and even assist in negotiating prices and brand of a hotel: it’s about creativity. If you Qiang, Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Keith shipping your purchases home. The hotel have great art in a hotel, you really change Haring, Richard Long, David Tremlett, also has its own gallery, Art District, the proposition of the hotel itself. Where Thomas Ruff and Sol Le Witt. It is a worthy where temporary exhibitions are curated coming out of an era where everything winner. But it’s interesting to see what else by Hervé Mikaeloff, who also presides was about design, but now we’re entering made the shortlist. There’s the Waldorf over the Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton. an era where it’s more about art and Rome Cavalieri, for instance (a hotel More surprising is the appearance of culture. Design is still important, but art Wupperfeld has loved since childhood), the Hotel Marquès de Riscal, the Frank is really a good way for a hotel to position which has a genuine Tiepolo triptych in Gehry-designed hotel in Rioja, a spectacle itself and attract an interesting audience its Tiepolo Lounge, as well as a creditable certainly, but not, in my experience the of discerning cash-rich people. So it can collection of 17th- and 18th-century most comfortable. be a smart investment for a hotel.” Italian masters, fine furniture (by the But perhaps the most radical inclusion Five-star galleries: The winner of the inaugural award is likes of Boulle), Beauvais tapestries and was the 21c Museum Hotel in Louisville Clockwise from top left: the Tiepolo the Benesse House Hotel on Naoshima, clocks. The excellent Royal Monceau in Cincinatti, America’s first museum Lounge at the Rome a Japanese island that is home to 3,600 Raffles in Paris makes an appearance too, not just of 21st-century art but one that Cavalieri, the Art people and seven significant galleries the only hotel I know of with a dedicated also incorporates a 90-room hotel. Stay District at the Monceau Raffles (also fish image) showing everything from five of Monet’s team of art concierges. These modishly here, and you’ll find the experience and Hotel Marquès waterlily paintings to site-specific works uniformed personable PhD students are altogether removed from Night at the de Riscal, the Frank by James Turrell. Designed by Tadao on hand to supply recommendations of Museum, the movie. Gehry-designed hotel in Rioja. Opposite: The Monceau Raffles in Paris.

196 la femme la femme 197 TIMELesS ELEGANCE AND CLasSIC STYLE, REINTERPeTED FOR THE DISCERNING MODERN WOMan. DIRECTORY

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198 la femme style notes

Miuccia Prada has said that fashion reflects what happens in society, “Real revolutions happen in fashion when there [is] real revolution in society. The miniskirt when there was Women’s Lib, in the 1920s there were deconstructed clothes when women didn’t wear bustiers any more…” So, what can be deduced from the increase in low-key dressing apparent on the runways (although it is, of course, far from the only trend). Well, perhaps one thing that can be said is that we may finally Fashion's trends be losing our appetite for showing off. The naturally reflect allure of full-face make-up, social media the world around them, responding pouting and capturing every seemingly to the zeitgeist by glamorous iota of our lives for the perusal raising a hem, or dropping a heel. of others is wearing a little thin. Another, to be gleaned from relaxed tailoring is that there is a desire to slow down, to live life at a more relaxed pace. While masculine tailoring, or even tight, revealing garments are all a form of power dressing, the silhouette that is slouchy, loose-fitting and relaxed is about wearing clothes during ‘me time.’ (Think about it – what do you reach for on the weekends? Is it the jacket, or suit, or is it that soft-against-your-skin sweatshirt, and those boyfriend jeans? Oh yes, and Fl ats fa ntastiC denim is having a ‘moment’ too – courtesy What do trends in the world of also of Prada, Stella McCartney and fashion say about the wider world? others. At Tod’s the message is clear: “this

By Jola Chudy is a collection for a modern woman who not only wants to look good, but also wants her outfits to perform well and, crucially, to be easy to wear.” And what of flat heels? There are several ways to read this: women who feel There’s something wearable, and even wellies (albeit ones with a price insecure in some way tend to wear high comfortable and dare we say it – sensible tag that would necessitate them never ever heels; Mrs Prada, on the other hand is – taking place on Planet Fashion of late. going anywhere near a muddy puddle). rarely seen in anything but flats and she Gone are vertiginous heels and displays of Even Alice Temperley and Burberry spoke pretty much owns fashion. And while the overt opulence and wealth. Instead, there of ease and effortlessness in their designs, flat is a more female, and feminist are flat heels and utilitarian aesthetics while Victoria Beckham has gone from the friendly option, to team it with a relaxed a-plenty. But while some pared-down, impossibly glamazonian silhouettes of her attire speaks more about a woman’s relaxed looks are to be predicted – first collection, to impeccably tailored yet confidence in eschewing trying to Italian houses especially, such as Tod’s utterly wearable, relaxed tailoring in her impress through her appearance than or Ferragamo tend towards them in most latest offerings. any amount of ostentatious brand collections, while Hermès is rarely far from At Nina Ricci, pieces are borrowed flashing. So, are we to hope that showy a below-the-radar wealth aesthetic, you from the male wardrobe. Shirts are re- dressing is out, reflecting a new appetite want to sit up and take notice when brands proportioned and re-worked; tailoring for authenticity? Well, if Planet Fashion’s such as Chanel or Prada send their models has military references; day dresses are arbiters have anything to do with it, down the catwalk in loafers, flat sandals easy and fluid. probably not for very long.

200 PAN La Femme_SP_Holidays_MOA10165_220x285 E.indd 1 11/13/14 5:20 PM