The Inside: Top Pantone ChoicesPg. 12 COACH ENTERS RUSSIA/3 BCBG EYES BEAUTY/13 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • January 31, 2008 • $2.00 List Sportswear Horse Play Frida Giannini is taking Gucci on an edgy ride for pre-fall, delivering a sporty collection full of linear shapes and soft textures. The mood of the clothes, Giannini says, is “about an equestrian beauty blended with luxury and a savoir-faire attitude.” Here, a wool coat with leather trim, cashmere and wool turtleneck and wool and Lycra spandex riding pants.

On and Off the Mark: Wal-Mart Finding Way With Target in Sights By Sharon Edelson s Target losing its cool and Wal-Mart Ifinding its way at last? For years Wal-Mart Stores Inc. struggled to find the right apparel formula as its competitor, Target Corp., solidified its reputation as the go-to discounter for affordable style. But the apparel fortunes of Target and Wal- Mart seem to have taken dramatically different turns of late. Wal-Mart has tweaked its George collection to give it more currency and is selectively expanding its fast- fashion line, Metro 7. The company is also zeroing in on the under $10 price See Wal-Mart, Page 14 PHOTO BY KHEPRI STUDIO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION Summer dresses strike a fl oral pose, from a tropical motif to a playful 6 fruit and fl ower print, and should keep things cool as the heat rises. GENERAL Wal-Mart is counting on apparel to boost its bottom line, as it restructures 1 the division, tweaks its George line and selectively expands Metro 7. The value of counterfeit goods seized at U.S. ports increased 27 percent 3 to $200 million in 2007, with apparel and footwear the top commodities. EYE: It’s unclear whether Matthew Mellon’s 44th birthday dinner in New 4 York on Monday night was for business or pleasure. BEAT: A day in the life of Shopbop.com buyers Eric Crandall and Kate 9 Ciepluch as they shop for summer goodies for the e-commerce site. Max Azria, chairman, ceo and designer of BCBG Max Azria, said his $2 13 billion company is set to launch fragrances and go public. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name.

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 22. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289- 0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. In Brief

● ARCANDOR NET FALLS: In its short 2007 financial year, spanning the first nine months of 2007, taxes and write-offs for divisions it no longer owns drastically reduced net profits 96 percent for Arcandor AG, while unadjusted earnings be- fore interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization improved 15.1 percent. In final figures released Wednesday, net profits for Arcandor, the renamed holding company of the former KarstadtQuelle AG, fell to 16.3 million euros, or $21.9 million at average exchange, from 479 million euros, or $644 million, in the prior year, while EBITDA climbed to 1.2 billion euros, or $1.57 billion, from 1 billion euros, or $1.37 billion. Adjusted group sales for the nine months rose 72 percent to 14.3 billion euros, or $19.2 billion. Arcandor confirmed its earnings and revenues forecast for fiscal 2008-09, calling for sales of 23 bil- lion euros, or $34 billion, EBITDA of 1.3 billion euros, or $1.9 billion, and in a first-ever EBIT forecast, operative earnings of 850 million euros, or $1.3 billion.

● SELECTIVE EYEWEAR TAPS PRESIDENT: Selective Eyewear Elements, which operates the SEE eyewear chain, based in Southfield, Mich., has named David Desjardins as president. Desjardins will report to chief executive officer Richard Golden, who also had held the president’s title, and will be re- sponsible for overseeing field and internal operations for the company. Most recently, Desjardins was chief stores officer for Delia’s Inc. There are 20 SEE stores nationwide and the com- pany plans to open 100 units in the next five years.

● GANT SUSPENDED: Gant shares were suspended from trad- ing Wednesday in Stockholm pending a statement from the stock exchange. Swiss retailer Maus Frères last month mount- ed a hostile takeover bid for the Swedish sportswear company. Both Maus and Gant declined to comment. Maus is now the big- gest single shareholder in Gant with over 35 percent.

● CURRIE TO TAHARI: Elie Tahari Ltd. tapped Scott Currie as vice president of communications, effective Feb. 18. He will join from Susan Magrino Agency, where he worked for the past seven years, most recently as executive vice president. At Tahari, Currie will be in charge of the communications efforts for the Elie Tahari collection, including women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories. He also will oversee the personal pub- lic relations for Elie and Rory Tahari, who are the company’s chairman and vice chairman and creative director, respectively. Currie will report to both Elie and Rory Tahari. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 3 WWD.COM Rate Cut Does Little to Calm Investors Josie’s Natorious Rtw By Jeanine Poggi mark federal funds rate to 3 percent, its second cut in two weeks. By Karyn Monget all Street lost midday gains Wednesday, as inves- In a release, the Fed said, “Today’s policy ac- Wtors worried that a half-point cut in interest rates tion, combined with those taken earlier, should lamour, easy separates, color and luxe fabrics are the hall- would not be enough to fix an economic downturn. help to promote moderate growth over time and to Gmarks of Josie Natori’s first full ready-to-wear collection, The Dow Jones Industrial Average momentarily mitigate the risks to economic activity. However, Natorious. spiked 0.6 percent after the Federal Reserve an- downside risks to growth remain.” The designer and chief executive offi cer of the Natori Co. began nouncement, but lost 0.3 percent for the day, clos- Retailers and investors also are looking for a previewing key items of the 80-piece collection for major retail- ing at 12,440.96, while the S&P 500 fell 0.5 percent boost from an economic stimulus package being ers this week at the Natori showrooms on Madison Avenue in to 1,355.56. crafted in Washington that contains tax rebates Manhattan. According to industry sources, Saks Fifth Avenue and After a short-lived rally retail shares sank, with aimed at putting money in consumers’ hands by Nordstorm will be among the fi rst stores to carry the rtw. the S&P Retail Index losing 1.1 percent to 405.46. June. The Senate Finance Committee passed a The fall preview precedes a fashion week launch on Monday High-end department store Nordstrom Inc. $161.3 billion package Wednesday that is broader with a presentation at the Bryant Park Hotel. dropped 3.8 percent to $36.73. Gap Inc. shed 3 than a plan backed by President Bush and passed “What challenges me is to have a solution to dressing that is percent to $18.32. Tween Brands fell 4.8 percent by the House on Tuesday. easy and versatile, but still glamorous,” Natori said. “I feel it to close at $31.07, while teen retailer Aéropostale The Senate bill could go to the full chamber for was the right time to do rtw that’s part of the vision that Natori Inc. slid 2.5 percent to $26.12. Wal-Mart Stores a vote by the end of the week. If the Senate passes is all about — really easy dressing with separates and a focus Inc. was one of the few retailers able to hang onto its bill, the differences between the Senate and on tops. It’s not about a blazer, two-piece suits or pinstripes. It’s gains, ending the day up 0.3 percent to $49.14. House measures will have to be reconciled in a about mixing tops with whatever women need. Women today Action sports apparel retailer Zumiez Inc. conference committee before it can move to the want clothing that is versatile and can go from day to night and jumped 2.8 percent to $17.80, while Coldwater president’s desk. President Bush has said the bill be able to mix it in with their wardrobes.” Creek Inc. increased 3.8 percent to close at $5.72. could be delayed or derailed if the Senate makes The collection is anchored in Natori Essentials, an assortment But the biggest gainer was Stein Mart Inc., soaring too many changes to the compromise legislation of tops that includes short tunics, fi ngertip-length tunics, cape- 10.1 percent to $6.08, after its chairman announced he struck with House leaders. lets, capes, short caftan looks, tank tops, turtlenecks, scoopnecks he would purchase 111,400 shares of the company. — With contributions from and cowl-necked styles. There’s also a cami liner to wear under Earlier in the day, the Fed lowered the bench- Kristi Ellis, Washington sheer embroidered mesh, stretch lace and allover mesh tops. In addition to a variety of textured treatments such as tra- punto quilting and lattice effects, fabrics and detailing include printed Asian fl oral and dragon-print silks; ombré and animal- print silks; a blend of bamboo and cashmere; Modal, viscose Coach to Open First Russian Unit in April and ponté jersey; animal-pattern mesh, and multicolor sequin motifs inspired by the Far East. Vibrant color abounds in a By Sophia Chabbott The fi rst freestanding Coach store will silk group of tops in solid chartreuse green, Chinese lacquer be located at the Seasons Kutuzovsky red, gold, burnt orange and deep teal accented with chocolate COACH IS OFF TO RUSSIA. shopping center in central Moscow brown, champagne and black. The $2.9 billion American ac- and is slated to open in April in a Natori said the idea is to mix the tops with three “essential” cessories fi rm revealed plans to 1,500-square-foot space. There are styles of pants, such as a tailored look of ultralight Japanese enter the Russian market and also plans to unveil a shop in the crepe, a soft ponté jersey and a fl uid viscose jersey. Short skirts open at least 15 stores within GUM development on Red include a classic straight silhouette, a front-pleat style and a the next fi ve years through Square in the fall. fl ared number. Suggested retail prices will range from $180 to a partnership with do- The stores will feature $900 with core price points averaging $200 to $400. Sizes are XS to mestic distributor the full Coach brand as- L. A resort collection will follow October deliveries, Natori said. Jamilco. Areas of con- sortment, including hand- “The retailers I have spoken to are very enthusiastic be- centration are Moscow bags, small leather goods, cause it’s a full rtw collection with a designer look and a con- and Saint Petersburg. outerwear and eyewear. temporary feel, but it’s not contemporary fi tting,” she said. “Not “Russians are be- Coach president and every woman has a fi gure for contemporary clothes. It’s very coming important executive creative di- easy to make something very expensive, but the real challenge consumers of luxury rector Reed Krakoff is is to provide solutions. I feel there’s a whole niche out there for accessories, both do- designing the Seasons designer rtw at prices that won’t break the bank.” mestically and in key Kutuzovsky boutique travel retail markets with the fi rm’s in-house Sexy animal- such as the Middle architecture team. pattern East, where Coach The space will feature sequin tank top with a has established a re- Coach’s python bag. Venetian plaster walls, racer back by tail presence with 10 white maple fi xtures and Natorious. locations,” Coach International president Ian Calacatta white marble fl oors. Bickley said. “Opening Russia is part of our For the three months ended Dec. 29, Coach’s strategy to capitalize on the increasing popu- net income climbed to $252.3 million from larity of the brand with emerging luxury con- $227.5 million. Sales grew by 21.4 percent to sumers globally.” $978 million. Value of Seized Goods Up 27% By Liza Casabona were $4 million, or 2 percent of in a statement. the total goods seized. “Where there is money to be he domestic value of coun- The domestic value of goods made, counterfeiters and pirates Tterfeit goods seized when is determined by adding ship- will steal intellectual property Capelet of ponté jersey with a passing through U.S. ports in- ping costs, the manufacturing and capitalize on the innovations tank of Modal and spandex and creased 27 percent last year, to costs of goods in a foreign coun- of others without regard for the tailored pants of Japanese crepe. $200 million. try, customs duties to enter the consequences to the people and Footwear and “wearing ap- U. S. and insurance costs togeth- to the businesses that they steal Animal- Ombré parel” were the top two com- er. The fi gure is lower than the from or the consumers that are print magenta modities confiscated, accord- suggested retail prices of goods. harmed by their fake products,” blouson and silk ing to U.S. Customs and Border The total number of seizures W. Ralph Basham, commission- silk top. short Protection and U.S. Immigration last year declined 7 percent, but er, U.S. Customs and Border caftan top. and Customs Enforcement, a Customs spokesman cautioned Protection, said in a statement. both part of the Department of that the number is misleading. “CBP is committed to stopping Homeland Security. Each seizure is counted as one trade in pirated and counterfeit Footwear accounted for 40 event, regardless of the size or goods and is taking action to con- percent of goods seized, with a do- scope, meaning a seizure of sev- front the growing global theft of mestic value of $77.8 million. The eral containers and a seizure intellectual property.” category increased by 23 percent of one box of counterfeits are U.S. Customs and Border year-over-year. Wearing apparel counted the same. There were Protection and U.S. Immigration made up 14 percent of the total a total of 13,600 seizures of in- and Customs Enforcement also goods seized, and had a domestic fringing goods last year. said they donated 10,000 pairs of value of $27 million — an 11 per- “These criminal organizations confi scated shoes to Samaritan’s cent increase year-over-year. are not only stealing the trade- Feet, a nonprofi t organization Seizures of handbags-wal- marks of U.S. businesses, they that provides shoes to impover- lets-backpacks and watches and are siphoning millions of dollars ished people globally. The hold- watch parts totaled $14.2 million from the American economy and ers of the trademarks on the and $13.4 million, respectively. are often deceiving an unsuspect- seized shoes agreed to allow the Each accounted for about 7 per- ing public,” Julie L. Myers, assis- agencies to donate the goods in- cent of the total domestic value tant secretary for Immigration stead of destroying them, which PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; MAKEUP BY TRISH MCEVOY JOHN AQUINO; MAKEUP BY PHOTOS BY of seizures. Sunglasses seized and Customs Enforcement, said is the standard procedure. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 WWD.COM

The birthday cake. Zani Gugelmann in Rachel Roy.

Dori Cooperman in Dolce & Gabbana. Mellon Ball It’s unclear whether Matthew Mellon’s 44th birthday dinner in New York Monday night was for business or pleasure. Sure, the banking heir, who has Alexis Humifton and started a luxury cashmere collection with his 25-year-old fi ancée, Noelle Justin Patterson Reno, was surrounded by a handful of longtime friends and family, including his uncle, Jay Mellon, and cousin, Justin Patterson. But the guest of honor’s nearest and dearest were outnumbered by fashion editors, publicists and social swells, many of whom admitted they weren’t all that tight with the birthday boy. “I’m not sure why we’re here,” said one guest at the intimate affair. Another attendee noted he’d only met Mellon two weeks ago, during a late night out at Los Angeles hot spot Teddy’s. Of course, that didn’t stop any of them from trekking to Socialista in the far West Village for the affair, grabbing up free drinks and feasting on empanadas, black cod and chocolate souffl es. “I’m really so moved by everyone who came,” Mellon said to the crowd, which included Vikram Chatwal, Dori Cooperman (who helped coordinate the guest list), Alvin Valley, Rose Bar doorman Damion Luaiye and Jennifer Creel. “When I fi rst met Matthew, he said he was fi ve years younger than he is,” Reno recalled. Since then, she added, “we’ve been through death, divorce, rehab….” And now, business. Mellon and Reno, whose home base is London, are in town to show their knit line called Degrees of Freedom at the St. Regis today. Pin-thin and poised with the press, Reno bears an uncanny resemblance to that of Mellon’s ex-wife, Tamara, and she seems to share the Jimmy Choo exec’s ambition. Perhaps Reno will pick up some tips on brand building when she and her betrothed hit Monday night’s party for Halston, where Tamara also serves as creative director (the former and future Mrs. Mellons are said to be friendly). In case anyone in attendance was still unaware of the couple’s new venture by evening’s end, Mellon helped drive the point home. After blowing out the candles on his birthday cake, he stood up to thank his friends for their support, before adding: “And I encourage you all to come by and see Degrees of Freedom.” Jay Mellon

Vikram Chatwal The scene at Socialista.

Noelle Reno in Ports 1961 with Matthew Mellon. PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; BELL BY WIREIMAGE STEVE EICHNER; BELL BY PHOTOS BY PARTY

about the blossoming romance and does everything in its netherworld power to sabotage the romance. “It’s a spiritual love triangle,” Bell Du Jour Bell says. “It’s the kind of movie I feel OK about asking my friends s she hops out of her Mini Cooper, with her events. At boarding school in Westminster, Conn., to go see because it’s fun and A Staffordshire bull terrier Margaret trailing at Bell was somewhat of a punk rebel, running an entertaining.” her heels, Lake Bell looks like a modern-day Audrey underground tattoo parlor for classmates and Aside from corralling friends Hepburn: hair swept back in a black headband, little sporting Doc Martens. But she later learned to to the cinema, it’s going to be a black Diane von Furstenberg dress, black turtleneck, embrace her mom’s well-heeled style when she busy weekend for Bell, who will trenchcoat and flats. But instead she’s just a young landed in Hollywood. drive up the California coast for the premiere of her indie thriller “Still Waters” at the Santa Barbara Film Festival. She plays a pampered It’s the kind of movie I feel OK about asking my friends to go wife who, along with her husband, gets “ a mysterious visitor at their country see because it’s fun and entertaining. house. Next year, audiences will see ” her in “Pride and Glory” in which she play the wife of Colin Farrell’s Irish- actress with modest means, who happens to know Bell, 28, best known as bombshell secretary American cop. The two were rumored how to wear clothes extremely well. “The turtleneck Sally Heep on “Boston Legal,” is getting ready to to have had an on-set romance, but is Forever 21,” she admits, “but I’m proud to say that, shine in a string of big-screen roles, beginning with Bell says she is currently single. “One because I can’t yet afford the expensive stuff. And this weekend’s “Over Her Dead Body” in which of the psychics that I visited to research my mother, who has crazy style, always taught me to she plays a psychic who falls in love with a client ‘Over Her Dead Body’ tried to set me up never be snobby.” (played by Paul Rudd) who is trying to contact his with ‘the man of my dreams’ but it didn’t Bell’s mother, a New York-bred former model, also dead fi ancée (played by Eva Longoria Parker). Bell’s work out,” she said. “But she’s now in my passed on her love of high fashion to her daughter, character conjures the spirit successfully, speed dial.”

who wears mom’s vintage couture to red-carpet but not surprisingly, it is not pleased ▼ Lake Bell — Marcy Medina NEW YORK LONDON PARIS MILAN HONG KONG ELIETAHARI.COM 6 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008

Flower Lane Summer dresses strike a fl oral pose, from a sexy tropical-leaf motif to a playful fruit-and-fl ower print. These fl irty junior looks will keep pretty young things cool as temperatures soar. — Antonia Sardone

Cotton gauze and Lurex dress from Guess by Marciano and Cimarron’s cotton and Lycra spandex denim pants.

Cotton and spandex jacket from Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons and Ten Feet’s cotton dress. Vans shoes. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Selé’s cotton, rayon, Red Engine’s cotton denim polyester and spandex vest jacket worn over a polyester worn with a cotton dress dress from Necessary Objects from DKNY Jeans Juniors. by Ady Gluck-Frankel.

Justsweet’s polyester dress. FOR AARTIST LOFT; FASHION ASSISTANT: CHRISTINA ROPERTI ASSISTANT: FASHION LOFT; FOR AARTIST PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AT BOWLMOR LANES; MODEL: ERICA ROSEN/ELITE; HAIR BY MICHAEL SILVIA AND MAKEUP BY MARIO DEDIVANOVIC, BOTH MARIO DEDIVANOVIC, AND MAKEUP BY BOWLMOR LANES; MICHAEL SILVIA MODEL: ERICA ROSEN/ELITE; HAIR BY JOHN AQUINO AT PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 WWD.COM Fashion Week Detour Fashion Scoops Jangling nerves? Not for Liz McClean — her sanguine approach can be chalked up to creative collaboration. CINEMATIC MOMENT: In fashion, everything can change with a single encounter. Take Yigal Azrouël, for instance. The designer was introduced Melissa Auf der Maur Keri Russell to budding director Chiara Clemente over the past weekend. They hit it off, and on the spot decided to do a fi lm collaboration that will make its debut at the designer’s fall show at Eyebeam Atelier on Friday. “Yigal was very much inspired by the energy of New York City while working on the collection,” said Clemente, who shot the video riding the New York subway all day on Monday. “I have been working with this energy of the city for the past three years while making my fi lm, ‘Our City Dreams.’” Azrouël added, “This season is really about texture and fabric and movement for me, and I think Chiara’s work brings out the sensorial quality of the collection. She understands my design and has brought her own unique interpretation.”

PACK IT UP, PACK IT IN: Fans of Jansport will be getting their groove on tonight when the backpack giant takes over New York’s Studio 450 to mark the launch of the Jansport Artist Series. Hitting stores in April, the limited edition collection features an older, more urban take on the classic backpack and messenger bag than those from junior high, complete with graffi ti graphics and anime-style characters. London-based designer Julie West and Joex2, a graffi ti and digital artist in Los Angeles, are the fi rst partners in the series, which will include four more collaborators through October. “As a youth growing up in Philly and going to school, I was always rocking a

PHOTOS BY MARY ROZZI PHOTOS BY Jansport, from kindergarten to fourth grade,” Joex2 said. “And I used to draw doodads and graffi ti-esque type things on it and tag my name. And now it’s hile most designers will spend the next few days feverishly pinning, sewing and sweating their come full circle.” In helping get the party started, Ladybug Mecca from the Wway through fittings and run-throughs, Liz McClean, a stylist and designer, is prepping for her Digable Planets will perform at the studio space, as well as J Boogie. show in a much more relaxed manner: readying photos for display at SoHo’s Openhouse Gallery. Last fall, while contemplating her fifth fall collection, McClean decided to bypass a runway act for ON THE ’NET: Those checking out their fashion week schedules will fi nd a more intimate showcase. She and a close friend, photographer Mary Rozzi, recruited more than that Marc Bouwer’s Monday show location gives the designers Web site, 20 women — mostly friends, some famous, some not — to be photographed wearing pieces from marcbouwer.com. That’s because Bouwer has chosen to forego the traditional McClean’s upcoming line. The result will be exhibited on Feb. 7 at Openhouse; her subjects will be runway show this season, and instead will post his newest creations online. in attendance, wearing the dresses in which they were shot. (The show, which is sponsored by Cover From noon on Monday, the site will feature a video and images of each look. Girl, will be open to the public on Feb. 8.) “What makes my work relevant as a designer is the woman who wears it,” says McClean. “I didn’t NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM: Putting in face time won’t be an option for guests at want to use random models this time around, I wanted the clothes to tell a story, and the photos do this year’s Young Fellows Ball, hosted annually by The Frick Collection. Per the that.” A longtime stylist for actresses including Julianne Moore, Maggie Gyllenhaal and Asia Argento, fete’s invitation, the dress code for the March 13 event is “Costume Opulento, McClean is best known for her drapey, tie-dyed dresses and tops; the new collection includes mostly Black Tie e Maschera” (translation: “Over-the-Top Masquerade”). And soiree silk chiffon, georgette and taffeta frocks. McClean sought to personalize the line by designing pieces vice chairman Ivanka Trump plans to comply: The Donald’s daughter will don a with individuals in mind, fi nding inspiration in what she calls “strong women who work hard.” custom-made diamond-encrusted mask codesigned by the evening’s sponsors Gyllenhaal, as well as actresses Keri Russell and Maya Rudolph, musicians Feist and Melissa Auf — Elie Saab and her own Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry, of course. The design der Maur, Barneys New York fashion director Julie Gilhart and photographer and cooking afi cionado house and the jewelry brand also will team up to outfi t co-chairs such as Aerin Paola Ambrosi de Magistris are among the participants, all of whom selected individual locations for Lauder, Marina Rust and Lauren duPont. As is tradition, the ball is pegged to a their photo shoots. “The [places] revealed a lot about them,” says McClean. “The clothes just fi t into specifi c work of art on display at the Museum. Parmigianino’s “Antea,” which is those contexts.” temporarily on loan from the Capodimonte in Naples, inspired this year’s motif. Auf der Maur was one of the fi rst women shot, lounging on a dock at a lake in upstate New York, wearing a black silk chiffon dress and skimming a red scarf across the lake’s surface. The photograph GALLERY GOING: Soon Karl Lagerfeld and Azzedine Alaïa won’t have to travel of Russell, in a crinkled silk chiffon number, depicts her sitting, contemplative, at the foot of a bed in to the outskirts of Paris to scoop up cutting-edge furniture and lighting her Brooklyn home. Ambrosi de Magistris is perched atop her kitchen stove wearing McClean’s ivory from hip Galerie Kreo. silk georgette dress, while Feist posed under the hot Mexican sun decked in a hand-dyed pintuck “We’re moving to the center of Paris,” said Kreo’s founder, Didier gown. The latter, in fact, was among a group of friends who traveled to Mexico with McClean and Krzentowski, who represents Martin Szekely, Marc Newson and the Rozzi for what ended up being several photo shoots. “I literally fi lled a hammock with dresses,” says Bourroulec brothers, among others. McClean. “One by one everyone tried them on [for] the shots. We were in the sand, near the water, just Located in what was once Ruby’s Nightclub at 31 Rue Dauphine in the Saint- hanging out, and it felt very organic…. It was important to keep it spontaneous because that’s the type Germain district, the new Galerie Kreo will join the ranks of the Rive Gauche of woman I see in my clothes.” galleries that have settled into the neighborhood. Kamel Mennour opened his — Sarah Haight sprawling space on nearby Rue Saint André des Arts last fall, for example. Stretching out over 4,300 square feet, the new Galerie Kreo is expect to open its doors in October. “We’re working on a fantastic opening,” Krzentowski said at the dinner organized by the French interior design trade show Maison & Objet to honor Zaha Hadid as designer of the year. more from “It is a great honor to be here,” said Hadid, who fl ew in for the occasion and joined fashion designers, furniture makers and architects the shows including Loulou de la Falaise and Jean Nouvel. Lewis Cho: Lewis Cho BLOW’S LEGACY: The late Isabella Blow was known as a champion of young Sheer panels and designers — she was instrumental in boosting the careers of Alexander McQueen, asymmetric ruching Philip Treacy and Hussein Chalayan. Now a scholarship for a new generation of on Annie Lewis fashion fi gures has been launched in her name. The Isabella Blow Memorial and Helen Cho’s Scholarship will annually provide a fashion student at Middlesex University in T-shirt dresses — in North London with fi nancial support during his or her degree course. lavender, black, blue The fi rst recipient of the award — which is funded by Treacy and and forest green England’s Ascot Racecourse — is Liesamarie Schulte-Kitzing, a 22-year- — made their fall old fashion student. Schulte-Kitzing was chosen for the award by the collection anything fashion illustrator Richard Gray and Lee Lapthorne, the founder of On|Off, but basic. which stages off-schedule shows during London Fashion Week. “[Schulte- Kitzing’s] work was very dynamic, but also very disciplined,” said Oliver Spencer: Men’s Lapthorne. “We felt we were selecting what Isabella would have wanted. wear designer Oliver She was very much in our minds.” Spencer ventured into women’s wear this ILLUSTRATED NEWS: It seems London has caught the art bug that’s worked its season — since, he way through the collections of labels from Miu Miu to Louis Vuitton to Jimmy explained, “my wife Choo this spring. On Friday, Topshop launched a capsule collection of T-shirts is always wearing by the British illustrator Kate Moross (not to be confused with Topshop’s other my cardigans” Oliver high-profi le collaborator, Kate Moss). The eight-piece line includes T-shirts and — presenting an Spencer sweatshirts adorned with psychedelic prints of birds, diamonds and “Yellow assortment of Submarine”-style text. Prices range from 20 pounds, or about $39 at current charming tailored exchange, for a tank top, through to 30 pounds, or $60, for a sweatshirt. looks, from boyish Moross, who has designed artwork for bands including Klaxons and tweed knickers to a Mystery Jets, as well as commercial illustrations for Sony, also has a grandpa sweater. collaboration with Nike in the pipeline. Meanwhile, London ready-to-wear label PPQ has teamed up with London-based illustrator Hannah Bays, who has created PPQ T-shirts and tote bags printed with black-and-white illustrations of pin-up girls in stripy stockings. Bays has previously designed record sleeves for Pete Doherty’s band, Babyshambles, and London band Dirty Pretty Things. The T-shirts and bags will be sold exclusively in PPQ’s London store, on Conduit Street. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND KYLE ERICKSEN STEVE EICHNER AND KYLE PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 9 WWD.COM The Beat Shopping With Shopbop

By Julee Kaplan for $33 and basic tanks for $23 in pink, white and black. Crandall also liked the purple tank, but decided to pass. NEW YORK — When Erin Crandall land- “The pink and the purple are for the same customer, and usually the ed a job at a little shop near her college one customer will order either the pink or the purple, rarely both,” she in Madison, Wis., she was stoked. said. “I think the pink is a bit stronger, so we’ll go with that.” She was earning extra money to help What they did not fi nd: “I really wish they had more bottoms, especially her through the University of Wisconsin more shorts,” Crandall said. “They only have one style of shorts, but if and working with one of her favorite there were more, I’m sure we would sell them. I think we are going to things — clothes. Little did she know end up looking to our denim vendors for our shorts.” that eight years later she would still Ciepluch added: “The shorts that they do have are really cute, but be employed by that same store, called they are belted and high-waist- Shopbop. Only today, she’s not fold- ed, which is not good for every- ing clothes or manning the cash regis- Juicy one.” ter — she’s now the head buyer of the Couture’s Amazon-owned contemporary boutique summer Stop 2: Juicy Couture Shopbop.com. tracksuit. Saleswoman: Sandy Minn, sales Working as a buyer there for seven representative years, Crandall has learned to deal with What they found: Since Juicy all of it — demands from customers, Couture is such a big sell- gambling on styles, timely shipments ing brand for Shopbop.com, and exclusives, to name a few. Also, as Crandall and Ciepluch go back an Internet-based retailer, Crandall has to order more for summer. to think about the broad picture — what “Their fashion just gets bet- does the girl in Los Angeles, New York ter and better every season,” (Crandall said the bulk of their business Ciepluch said. comes from major urban areas) and pos- “The line looks really good sibly even Wichita, Kan., want? Also, for summer, when so many other with international shipping offered as lines are not so great,” Crandall a service, she has to keep her mind on added. “We need to spend the what overseas customers are looking for. dollars, so I think we will fi nd a It’s a challenge, but with a wide range of lot at Juicy.” products from designers such as Anna And they do. Crandall or- Sui, Marc Jacobs, Charlotte Ronson, dered more denim shorts and James Perse, L.A.M.B., Rachel Pally, decided to add on more mini Rebecca Taylor, Milly and Tibi, Crandall trench jackets. She already or- believes she has her customers covered. Erin Crandall and dered the $135 jacket in tan, but “We have planners that help us deter- Kate Ciepluch will also buy yellow. “I like the mine how much to buy based on our past green a lot, but green is a hard selling,” she explained. “We’ve been buy- sell, it doesn’t go with a lot and ing for Shopbop for so long, we know if something is going to be a isn’t very basic,” she said. “The yellow is better for us.” popular item and we’ll do the most units there. Generally, we are Shopbop.com’s Crandall added more dresses in a range of colors, including item-driven and because customers are buying based on what they red, yellow and blue, to add to the basic shades of white and see in a photo, it has to be visual.” Top Five Vendors: black, which she already ordered. She also placed an order for Once products are shipped to Shopbop, they are housed in its the $50 linen cargo shorts since “linen always does well from warehouse in Madison, where the company has its headquarters. ● Juicy Couture Juicy.” She decided against the linen pants since “I just don’t And generally, markdowns are taken around the same time as de- ● think people wear linen pants anymore.” partment stores. Vince Crandall liked the crochet belted sweater dress in cream, and WWD accompanied Crandall and fellow Shopbop.com buyer ● Seven For All Mankind decided to order about 20 more units. Kate Ciepluch (who also worked at Shopbop’s freestanding ● “It’s really pretty and will do so well,” she said of the dress, Madison store during college) on a buying trip to three different T-Bags which wholesales for $172. wholesalers to see what works for their boutique, what doesn’t ● Theory Crandall also added on more of what Juicy is best known for work and what prompts them to make those decisions. The focus — velour tracksuits. “They still sell very well,” she said, adding of the buying trip hoodies and shorts in blue. was fi lling the site for summer, not an Minn pulled out a grey tank dress with tiny easy task. navy blue hearts printed on it. “We are really worried about sum- “It’s adorable,” Crandall said. “But the hearts mer, we haven’t seen a lot of what we are too small and will never look right online. A printed silk like,” Crandall said. “But we have to They will just look like tiny dots.” She passed on tank from use the dollars, so I think we are going the dress. Vince. to end up buying more from the ven- What they did not fi nd: “The line looks so, so dors we’ve already bought from.” great,” Crandall said. “The Juicy girl loves color Here, a diary of their travels. and isn’t afraid to wear it. They defi nitely had a lot of color. The only thing I would have liked to Stop 1: Vince see more of are some more social dresses, things Saleswoman: Sophie Dymoke, director girls can wear to weddings or parties.” of sales. What they found: This is Crandall and Stop 3: Adam Adam Lippes Ciepluch’s second trip to Vince to see Saleswoman: Michelle Smith, sales representa- the summer line. As one of the site’s tive top vendors, they ordered a large mix What they found: This is the fi rst time Crandall already. Today, they are adding more to and Ciepluch saw the Adam Adam Lippes summer their order. line. Crandall quickly chose a grey dolman-sleeve “I love the leather jacket, but isn’t sweater for $180, a knit tank dress in tan and black April an odd time to bring in leath- for $180, a black high-waisted cargo skirt for $134 er?” Crandall asked Dymoke. After and a silk chiffon halter dress for $193. some convincing, Crandall decides “This line is for a very polished girl,” the shirred-neck bubble-style jacket Crandall said. “It has a designer aesthetic and is just too cool to pass up. It’s lined in is very directional.” silk, is lightweight and comes in black Ciepluch picked up a plum silk party dress. and brown. Crandall orders the brown, “Do you like this?” she asked. Crandall shook her since it’s a bit of a lighter color for the head and moved to the rack holding her choices. season. The jacket wholesales for $315. “I don’t think this dress will work,” she told Basically, Crandall and Ciepluch Smith of the knit tank dress. “You have to be re- like most of what they see in the ally thin to wear it. Let’s take that out.” Vince collection, ordering the $70 What they didn’t fi nd: “The line is beautiful, but it Shopbop trench-tie high-waisted shorts in tan, hasn’t really been doing that well for us,” Crandall ordered black and brown, the wide-leg sneak- said. “I was hoping to at least see some more sum- Adam Adam er pants for $102 a pair and an array mer dresses.” Lippes’ dolman- of tops — a silk printed tank for $110, Ciepluch added: “I also think it would have been sleeve striped layer tops in heather grey for nice to see more fancier dresses — again, more sweater.

$58, a one-shoulder T-shirt in black things that a girl could wear to a summer wedding.” ANTONOV PASHA MITRA; JUICY BY ROBERT PHOTO BY AND CIEPLUCH CRANDALL 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 WWD.COM Denim Report Brands Look to Broaden Base at Bread & Butter

By Emilie Marsh “Louis Vuitton and Prada have been de- fi ned as luxury labels, but ultimately, they’re A look from BARCELONA — Denim brands are hungry for a bigger just brands,” said Broger. “We intend to do Levi’s Blue. slice of the apparel pie. the same at a lower price point.” Major denim companies exhibiting at the Bread & He noted that a new Levi’s store concept Butter trade show that ended its three-day run here was recently unveiled in Antwerp, Belgium, Jan. 21 were diversifying their offerings in order to gain that promotes a casual and more relaxed market share and satisfy strong consumer demand for shopping environment. all things indigo. “Customers have shifted their shopping “I don’t think the denim market exists anymore,” habits from shopping at very large, very noisy said Armin Broger, president of Levi Strauss Europe. shops to something more subtle,” he said. Instead, Broger said today’s successful denim brands “The new Levi’s format will embrace a much are shifting their focus to become “global casual brands larger spectrum of age.” of the future.” Wrangler is another iconic label looking to “Premium lines are examples of how experience and expand its reach and appeal to a greater seg- creativity in denim are the new luxury,” said Broger. ment of the population. For fall, Levi’s Blue and Levi’s Vintage Clothing “We are reworking the way we do denim, — the brand’s premium lines that represent its fast- expanding our customer reach,” said Mark est-growing category — dove into the fi rm’s archives Cuthbert, European managing director of to resurrect authentic styles for denim and nondenim Wrangler. “We are returning to authenticity apparel. Skinny jeans, higher waistlines and jeans with and focusing on the heritage of the brand in- pleated fronts and slightly tapered legs are expected to stead of just selling jeans.” fi ll wardrobes next fall. Meanwhile, Seventies-inspired The company hopes to expand its cus- wide-leg and fl ared jeans in bright colors or vintage tomer base by targeting a more sophisticated washes were also making a statement for fall. clientele. Joni Mitchell-like fl ared jeans, as well as denim in bright colors, such as red and Yves Klein blue, were among Wrangler’s key styles for women at the show. Traffi c at the fair exceeded expectations, Wrangler hopes with some noting a substantial increase in to reach a more visitors to their stands in the fi rst day com- sophisticated customer. pared with the same period in the prior- year’s session. Lee Cooper executives said the compa- Edwin Jeans launched its Japanese Vintage premium ny’s stand registered a 30 percent increase in traffi c on denim collection for men and women that retails for 100 the fi rst day of the show, when it unveiled its Beatles to 400 euros, or $146 to $584 at current exchange rates. capsule collection and premium denim line designed by Amsterdam-based Blue Blood tapped British vintage French actress Lou Doillon. collector Nigel Cabourn to create a limited edition, Retailers also cited a shift in the way denim brands vintage-inspired denim line for both women and men. are doing business. WWII fi ghter pilot jackets or pants from WWI will retail “Denim and streetwear are getting more sophisti- for 400 euros to 700 euros, or $584 to $1,022. An elegant cated,” said Martin Wieczorek, head of buying for the travel bag, for 1,000 euros, or $1,460, was also a high- Printemps-owned urban apparel megastore Citadium in light. Blue Blood’s eccentric styles, such as denim with Paris. “Denim brands have really polished up their acts double waistlines for women and acid-washed jeans, and appeal to a much wider range of consumers.” sand-blasted, dipped in grease and oil or treated with Leslie Lim, buyer for Queen Couture, an edgy mul- tar resin, offer edgy denim alternatives for fall. tibrand shop in Singapore, said, “We’ve seen some real To underline the retro trends, Pepe Jeans London fashion direction from denim and streetwear brands looked to Andy Warhol for the inspiration of its new that we haven’t seen in the past.” denim collection. The 250-piece line will include men’s While skinny jeans will continue to be a wardrobe and women’s looks and will be based around denim ca- staple next fall, denim styles with a high fashion quo- sualwear and accessories. tient, such as fl ared and wide legs, some pleated in the While the market for new brands has slowed in re- front, will also be important. With more volume in bot- cent years, several were on hand to make their debut. toms, tops come cropped or tucked into shirts, while Zurich-based Double M launched its fall offering of leather bomber jackets round out many collections. clean denim looks. Organic and eco-friendly collections continue to be “We focused on very well-fi tted, clean-cut denim,” a key trend as well. Nudie Jeans’ women’s collection, said the label’s founder, Mille Monferin, who spent 20 Denim Birds, is made entirely from organic cotton, while years gaining expertise in denim from brands such as brands such as Komodo, which is gearing up to launch Levi’s, Lee and G-Star, plus in his most recent position online before spring; Kuyichi’s eco-friendly denim range, as president of Edwin Jeans. “At the end of the day, if A look from Pepe and VF Corp.-owned Napapijri won kudos at the show. you are making something that’s high quality yet at a Jeans London’s Andy Retailers agreed a return to classics and vintage good price point, there is always space for it.” Warhol collection. styles were a driving force at the show. Double M jeans retail for around 130 euros, or $190. PHOTO BY MATTI HILLIG MATTI PHOTO BY Girbaud Aiming High With Legend arithé & François Girbaud believes denim’s place in fashion is the stuff of legend. So for fall, Mthe firm will launch a high-end denim collection called Legend for women and men consist- ing of only denim jeans. “We have 30 years of work on constructions and treatments that we own and incorporate into our pieces,” said François Girbaud. “This legacy is our identity and our signature. We can still bring a lot to the denim market and it was the time, especially in the U.S., to come back taking a strong position in the premium market.” Girbaud has signed with I.C. Isaacs & Co. Inc. to produce and distribute the brand in the U.S. “Marithé & François have always been students of consumer behavior,” said Bob Stec, chief executive offi cer of I.C. Isaacs. “Over the years, they have watched how the premium market has grown and they truly believe that this is a segment which has longevity.” The fi rst collection, wholesaling from $83 to $130, focuses on special denim treatments and fi nishes. There are 10 different women’s styles and seven for men. Each piece is accessorized with Girbaud’s 30-year-old iconic symbols tattooed into the fabric on the belt loops and waistbands. The buttons, rivets and zippers on the jeans are also treated like jewelry, rather than just metal. “The buttons are sculpted and all of the hardware is in gold and silver, to make each item more special,” Stec said. “Each of the styles is also unique in that the jeans themselves are sculpted. There are baggy and tight styles, but there are some made with no front seams — it’s really an architectural take on denim design. This line will give the customer a reason to buy a new pair of premium jeans.” The collection is being targeted to high-end specialty and department store retailers such as Bloomingdale’s and Barneys New York. Stec declined to give fi rst-year sales expectations for the brand, but said he wants to make Legend a $20 million brand. Looks from Legend. — Julee Kaplan STEAL the SHOW

COLLECTIONS { SEASON }

FEBRUARY 1 - MARCH 4 EICHNER, GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI NEW YORK | LONDON | MILAN | PARIS PHOTOS BY: PASHA ANTONOV, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CENTENO, TALAYA CHINSEE, STEVE ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY:

WWDStyle Starts Here™ For more information on WWD’s Collections Season advertising opportunities, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 WWD.COM There’s change in the air for fall, and it’s not just a political one. The warm, subdued colors that typically make up a fall palette have given way to rich TheWWDList blues, greens and purples. “It’s a big change for the season,” agreed Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of Carlstadt, N.J.-based Pantone Color Institute, which supplied WWD with its top 10 colors for New York designers for fall. “The bottom fi ve colors are the warmer colors we’re more accustomed to seeing for fall. The dominance of blue, purple and green really makes a statement about how infl uential they are for designers this season.” In addition, while the A Season of Change shades have a coolness to them, “they’re actually quite rich. They’ve got some excitement behind them, too, and they act as a nice balance to the warmer, The top 10 Pantone colors chosen by New York designers for fall 2008. neutral palette that’s represented in the bottom fi ve colors.” — Cecily Hall

PANTONE 18-3843 BLUE IRIS Chosen by 13.95 percent of designers Pantone’s 2008 Color of the Year is also designers’ favorite color for fall. “Each year, Pantone chooses a color that we think represents what the year is about,” said Eiseman of Pantone Color Institute. “What’s the message this year? People are looking for calm in such a volatile year — especially now, with the election and the turbulent economy. We need that element of calm, but at the same time, this color also has some strength 1 to it.” With purple undertones, the color transforms into something a little richer than any plain blue or purple. Designers who incorporated Blue Iris into their collections include Reem Acra and Alice Temperley of Temperley London.

PANTONE 18-3531 ROYAL LILAC 13.18 percent Zac Posen worked a little Royal Lilac magic into his creations for fall — as did Douglas Hannant, whose signature color for the season is “imperial purple,” according to Pantone. “This color takes an element of the Blue Iris and injects some red to make it a little hotter. Women — and even men, these days — are discovering how fabulous a color purple can be.” Designers are obviously getting the message, too, since they’re using it in their 2 work. Eiseman also pointed out that retailers also have warmed to the color purple. “They’re nowhere near as fearful about featuring purple on their fl oors as they once were,” she said.

PANTONE 18-5634 SHADY GLADE 12.4 percent “This is such an elegant representation of the green family,” noted Eiseman. “This green works beautifully in an evening dress with a satin fi nish.” And it’s already been proven popular, having made a huge splash when Keira Knightley’s character in the fi lm “Atonement” wears a green satin evening gown from costume designer Jacqueline Durran during one of the most poignant scenes. Though not decidedly yellow or blue green, it’s 3 a color that fi ts somewhere in between the two. “I’m loving the direction that green is headed. You will defi nitely see this shade of green at the Academy Awards this year,” predicted Eiseman. Perhaps from designers such as Carmen Marc Valvo, Luca Orlandi for Luca Luca and Doo-Ri Chung for Doo.Ri, who all feature Shady Glade in their dresses for fall.

PANTONE 18-4525 CARIBBEAN SEA 11.3 percent Tracy Reese sums up her color philosophy for the season this way: “Embrace the elements of nature and wear rich and bold explosions of color for fall.” She, along with designers Peter Som and Akiko Ogawa, chose Caribbean Sea to complement their collections. “I see this color choice used more in a fl ash of an accessory, or mixed in with prints and patterns,” said Eiseman. “It’s a great color to think about for winter vacations. People want this 4 in their wardrobe for their upcoming trips. It’s always a consumer favorite.” She pointed out that the color can be paired with greens and deeper blue shades, such as Shady Glade and even Blue Iris.

PANTONE 19-3938 TWILIGHT BLUE 10.85 percent “This isn’t your average navy blue,” said Eiseman. The color includes a bit of red to give it a warmer, more exciting feel. She added, “We think of this more as a spring background color, but here it is in the top fi ve for fall. It’ll work great with textures that have a sheen to them.” She said the 5 color will be seen in wardrobe basics, such as suits and pants — “this is a great color option for those pieces.” Yigal Azrouël, who said he chose a “dark and moody, somber but rich and healthy” fall palette, according to Pantone, included Twilight Blue in his collection. The color also lent itself to Kimora Lee Simmons’ collection — she was inspired by stained glass and Art Deco fi nishes this season.

PANTONE 18-1550 AURORA RED 8.87 percent This fall’s red is just that — a true, rich red, which will have a very broad appeal to consumers, noted Eiseman. “We’d be astonished not to see a red for the fall palette,” she said. “And this version is particularly beautiful. Not to mention, it’s an ideal color for the holidays, so of course we know there will be consumer response to that point alone.” Waleed Khairzada for Cynthia Steffe noted in Pantone’s fall report that red was his signature 6 color for fall. It also can be found throughout David Rodriguez’s collection. “Red rules!” he said of the color. “A beautiful, rich red has been my favorite color since childhood.” Hanii Yoon and Gene Kang for Y & Kei also chose this version of red, stating that their color philosophy focused on “rich and warm colors that are communicated in a subtle and indirect manner.” PANTONE 14-1036 OCHRE 8.52 percent When pairing this version of yellow with others in the top 10 palette, “the combinations are endless,” said Eiseman. “Designers are doing more of the unexpected in their color combinations. While most can imagine seeing this against Shitake or Burnt Orange, a more unexpected match would be up against Blue Iris or Caribbean Sea.” Lela Rose chose this shade as part of her fall collection, noting that her color philosophy included “jewel 7 tones, texture and layers all mixed into one.” And we’ll see Ochre in Alvin Valley’s lineup, too — his prominent shades this season: “Earth tones and industrial neutrals, with accents in Picante, Inca Gold, Ice Flow and Burnt Orange.” Said Eiseman: “People are ready for yellow. We’re going to see much of this color in knitwear and accessories.” PANTONE 16-1448 BURNT ORANGE 7.75 percent Wichy Hassan for Miss Sixty said of his signature color for the season: “It’s purple with a touch of orange — vintage and modern, hippie but haute, tough yet feminine. Pops of bright coral orange add a graphic, rock ’n’ roll element….” Eiseman, too, pointed out that the color combination of 8 Burnt Orange against something like Blue Iris was thinking out of the box: “You’re getting these kinds of complex pairings that are really going to tweak the consumer’s eye. This color, which is a deeper, more intense version of your typical orange, lets designers really explore such a wide range of combinations.”

PANTONE 18-1015 SHITAKE 6.98 percent It’s the ideal neutral, yet versatile color for fall. “Is it brown? Is it gray? Is it green? It’s all of those. The complexity behind this shade of brown offers consumers a lot of different options when pairing it against other colors in their wardrobes,” said Eiseman. She selected colors such as Aurora Red, Royal Lilac and Caribbean Sea as interesting matches against Shitake. Or, to keep it quieter, a designer could mix it with Twilight 9 Blue. This is Elie Tahari’s signature color this season. His inspiration: “Saturated hues inspired by gemstones and gold ornamentation.” Tia Cibani for Ports 1961 and Jenni Kayne also incorporated this version of brown into their collections.

PANTONE 18-1435 WITHERED ROSE 6.2 percent Brian Reyes made Withered Rose his signature color for fall. In the Pantone fall report, he said of the color: “Withered Rose is a very strong element that stands out on its own. It plays a dual role as a strong mineral hue and also has a touch of natural terrain.” The combination of pink 10 mixed in with brown undertones makes Withered Rose a very subtle, warm shade that will be found in many different kinds of fabrics, said Eiseman. “This blends so beautifully with most of the colors in the fall palette. It’s a quiet color, and designers are putting it against the blues and the browns in the top 10.”

SOURCE: PANTONE FASHION COLOR REPORT FALL 2008; PANTONE COLORS DISPLAYED HERE MAY NOT MATCH PANTONE®-IDENTIFIED SOLID COLOR STANDARDS; CONSULT CURRENT PANTONE FASHION + HOME COLOR SYSTEM® PUBLICATIONS FOR ACCURATE COLOR; PANTONE® AND OTHER PANTONE INC. TRADEMARKS ARE THE PROPERTY OF PANTONE INC.; © PANTONE INC., 2008 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 13 WWD.COM Max Azria Set for Beauty Redux is the time for “big action. I am focusing a lot on this, about 20 By Marcy Medina A spring ad for or 30 [deals]. I cannot talk before I close deals because I like BCBG Max Azria. VERNON, Calif. — Max Azria is jumping into beauty — to deliver, always, but we are going very far.” Below: Max Azria and and more. However, Azria said much of his focus for 2008 will be on his wife, Lubov, the The chairman, chief executive offi cer and designer of the MaxAzria designer collection and Hervé Léger by Max fi rm’s creative director. BCBG Max Azria Group said his $2 billion company based Azria. here is preparing to revisit the world of fragrances and “We have a lot of incentive to push these two brands be- launch makeup in 2009 or 2010. cause people like it, so we respond to the market,” he said. In addition, Azria, 59, said an initial public offering is “a “We want to have an even bigger presence in the high market, work in progress,’’ and outlined plans to expand his licensed and we have the technology and the vision to do it.” accessories business and focus on growing the two highest- Azria’s other brands include the contemporary line BCBG end brands in the company’s 15-brand portfolio: MaxAzria, Max Azria, MaxAzria Atelier, BCBGeneration, the young con- his designer collection, and Hervé Léger by Max Azria, the temporary brand launching at WWDMAGIC this month, and ready-to-wear collection based on the French couture house several brands sold exclusively in Europe, Manoukian and that Azria acquired in 1998. Max Rave among them. Regarding the beauty business, Azria said, “I am meeting Azria also produces a line for French department store with a big company next month,” which he declined to identi- Carrefour called Tex by Max Azria in a deal that is said to fy. The BCBG brand has no current signature fragrances. The include minimum guarantees of $1.4 billion through 2011, ac- company had a BCBGirls quartet of scents — the license with cording to Fortune magazine. The line is sold in Carrefour Unilever expired before the 2005 sale of Unilever’s prestige stores in France, Spain, Italy, Belgium, Portugal and Greece. beauty business to Coty. He has a history of acquiring European retail chains, such as Experts speculated that Azria might partner with a mar- Alain Manoukian and Don Algodon, as well as brands. The keter that has a smaller portfolio of existing brands and the most recent was French sportswear label Dorotennis, which ability to focus closely on and build Azria’s beauty business. he bought from the European investment fi rm Argos Sodotic Among BCBG’s competitors in the contemporary mar- this month for an undisclosed amount. Dorotennis is an off- ket, those with successful fragrances include Juicy Couture, shoot of the French label Dorothée Bis that Azria acquired in L.A.M.B. and Marc Jacobs’ Daisy fragrance, which is aimed at 2003 with plans to resurrect. the contemporary Marc by Marc Jacobs customer. The market BCBG Max Azria Group, which employs 16,000 people for fragrances by contemporary apparel companies is an oth- worldwide, including 9,000 in the U.S., operates a global busi- erwise open fi eld. Recent U.S. designer fragrance launches include a ness model with factories in China and the U.S. There are 479 BCBG stores signature John Varvatos women’s scent and a Narciso Rodriguez men’s worldwide, and more than 13,500 retail and wholesale points of sale. scent that kicked off last summer. Elizabeth Arden just signed a deal Despite the global economic volatility, Azria said his company ended with Alberta Ferretti to launch a scent in 2009. December with same-store sales gains of 9.4 percent and overall earnings Azria’s Hervé Léger brand produces two fragrances, Hervé Léger, gains of 23 percent. created in 1999, and Rose Léger, which started the following year. “It is better for me not to hear what the media is saying because I am Both were initially produced by Procter & Gamble but were brought doing better than ever,” he said. “People tell me this and that, but I am in-house in 2001. an old animal. I’ve seen everything. And I think the people react too Azria spoke about the future of his 19-year-old company amid fast and scare themselves. People who start the day thinking about preparations for a triple play during New York Fashion Week. He catastrophes have no chance at the end of the day. I wake up in the will present BCBG Max Azria and his namesake collection, as well morning so happy to be alive and healthy.” as the New York runway debut of Hervé Léger by Max Azria. Azria said one of his biggest challenges will be topping his 2007 Amid speculation about an IPO, Azria confi rmed that he has numbers, but he affi rmed that in its current state of private owner- hired a co-chief fi nancial offi cer, Thimio Sotos, a 13-year veteran ship, the company’s sales are close to doubling “organically, with- of Jones Apparel Group, who held the same post there before re- out looking at other options. For the moment we have very clear signing last March and relocating to California in August. Brian visibility to hit the $4 billion or $5 billion mark between now and Fleming remains at BCBG Max Azria Group as the other chief the next three years, easy,” he said. fi nancial offi cer. The hire suggests an IPO, which Wall Street As for long-term plans, Azria said, “I think nobody can talk has anticipated for two years. about fi ve years from now. With globalization and politics today, we Sources close to the company said the IPO will likely take are in an economy where you cannot talk more than six months to place in 2009. “Yes, I have two cfo’s, but it’s better to have four a year. You cannot put your car in automatic, you have to be in con- eyes looking at the business than two,” Azria said. trol at all times, and the car is going too fast. Today we do in one Judging by the number of bankers invited to the runway shows, Azria year what we used to do in 10 years. I like to plan every two or three is counting on having far more than four pairs of eyes on his company months, and when I hit the six-month mark, then I can start thinking next week. The practice is standard among companies courting prospec- about the year.” tive investors. Azria seems unfazed by his agenda, including a hectic fashion Azria, a native of French Tunisia who often slips into French turns of week. In fact, his eyes danced when he said, “It’s a lot of work, but phrase, said he plans a major expansion of accessories, which makes up 15 these gymnastics are part of my job. I can do even 10 collections if I percent of his business. The company already licenses for shoes, sunglass- wanted to.” es, belts and jewelry, and produces bags in-house. Azria said this quarter — With contributions from Matthew W. Evans, New York Renovated Rykiel Flagship Captures Firm’s New Spirit By Robert Murphy will take a bow alongside the designer likes of Confucius to Brigitte Bardot. and Nathalie Rykiel after the brand’s Another LCD monitor between two steps PARIS — Sonia Rykiel is kicking off runway show in Paris in late February. fl ashes “heureuse?” or happy. its 40th anniversary year today by in- Designed by Paris firm Rapp and The shop will be merchandised in a augurating its renovated flagship on Nogen, the renovated boutique refl ects fun way, mixing, say, an evening gown the Boulevard Saint-Germain here, the brand’s inherent spunk. For exam- alongside glamorous workout wear from the creative soul of the quirky family- ple, apart from the more typical accesso- the brand’s Karma label, Rykiel said. owned brand. ries area and knitwear “library” wall, a “We want it to be chic and different,” With a new decor that juxtaposes oak corner tucked away on the fi rst fl oor sells she said, who added the redo included paneling with black Plexiglas and black- sex toys and other erotic paraphernalia. the renovation of the house’s press and on-black dot tiling, Nathalie Rykiel, the For the opening, Rykiel has made a commercial showroom. house’s creative director and the daugh- series of limited edition “family jewels” Rykiel declined to provide sales pro- ter of Sonia, calls the shop the embodi- mini sculptures dappled in rhinestones jections (“I’m superstitious,” she said), ment of the “new Rykiel spirit.” as well as a dildo in the form of a fl ow- but allowed that she expected a signifi - “Our mood today tempers humor er that disappears into a vase. Erotic cant increase over the shop’s previous with elegance,” she explained of the ex- sculptures by artist Charles Matton will incarnation. Sources estimate Rykiel panded 5,500-square-foot space. “We are be exhibited for the opening. had sales of about 100 million euros, or more Saint-Germain-des-Pres [in spirit] While not prudish, the merchandise $146 million at current exchange, last today than ever.” underscores Rykiel’s cheeky approach. year with an increase in revenues of The shop opens as Rykiel gathers More conventionally, the house has re- about 10 percent. The house operates Inside the momentum for an event-packed year. edited one of its iconic sweaters deco- 29 wholly owned boutiques and counts new Rykiel Founded by Sonia Rykiel in 1968 in the rated with two birds as well as a rhine- 26 franchised stores. store. midst of the city’s historic student riots, stone bird brooch to commemorate the A party will be held tonight to fete the the brand, famous for a certain Parisian remodeled store. All of the limited edi- shop. The likes of Isabelle Huppert and on the runway to commemorate its birth- insouciance, has been restructuring in a tions are produced in runs of 175, after Diane Kruger are expected to attend. day. In May, Rykiel plans a big block play for growth. the shop’s address. There will be a concert by CocoRosie party on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, Last month, the house named a new Rykiel said having fun was the shop’s and a ribbon-cutting ceremony presided and in October a museum exhibit cel- managing director, Francois Steiner, and raison d’être. To wit: the staircase lead- by the mayor of Paris. ebrating the house will open at Les Arts promoted Gabrielle Greiss to creative ing to the fi rst fl oor has an LCD monitor Later in the year, Rykiel will con- Decoratifs’ fashion museum. In addition, director of its top collection. Greiss, who encrusted between two steps. It fl ashes tinue the celebration. In February, the a fi lm is being made and a literary essay has worked in the studio with Sonia, Sonia Rykiel’s favorite maxims from the house will offer special-edition pieces is planned for publication this fall. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Finding Fashion Footing as Target Stumbles Continued from page one sands” of items by 10 to 30 percent this ment departments. Blakely declined to reason, we’ll see continued gross margin point for apparel. The latest move came week, calling the initiative an “economic say how many jobs would be lost. “Some pressure in the fi rst quarter.” earlier this week when the retail giant re- stimulus plan for shoppers.” Products positions on teams were eliminated,” she One criticism of Target is that “they’re structured its apparel organization, elim- include everything from grocery items to said. “The sourcing and product develop- constantly making little bets with Go and inating jobs in two divisions — sourcing home theater systems. ment positions were eliminated, but look other brands. Merona and Cherokee are and product development — while forti- “[Wal-Mart] is more in tune with their for the team to grow in New York.” the more basic parts of their program,” fying the areas of brand merchandising target customer than they’ve been for Buchanan characterized the overhaul said a retail consultant. “The problem is and buying. several years now,” said retail consultant as positive. “I certainly don’t see Wal-Mart on overall trend identifi cation.” Mossimo, A spokeswoman for Wal-Mart, Linda stepping back from its penetration in ap- a multiproduct brand, has been a staple Blakely, said the moves were all part of A look from parel or home fashions,” he said. “Fashion at Target since 2000 and is still very much Wal-Mart’s increased focus on what works Wal-Mart’s is becoming faster and faster and faster. a part of the assortment. And Target is in apparel. “Our goal is to strengthen the Metro 7. With the pace of change when it comes to said to be launching Whim by Cynthia relevance of apparel for our customer fashion trends, the more Wal-Mart can do Rowley in April, but there won’t be any and the speed of product to market,” she out of New York, the better. It’s easier to do apparel, just novelty items such as out- said. “We are not stepping away [from ap- that out of New York than anyplace else.” door games and infl atable pools. parel] at all.” According to industry sources, Metro Go International, the retailer’s short- John Fleming, executive vice presi- 7, which is now sold in more than 500 term tie-ups with young designers such dent and chief merchandising offi cer for doors, is being expanded in about 100 of as Proenza Schouler, Erin Fetherston and Wal-Mart, put responsibility for the suc- those stores. “Wal-Mart has decided to ex- Behnaz Sarafpour, has long raised ques- cess of a brand’s survival squarely in the pand the product offering substantially,” tions about how much revenue it gener- hands of the apparel division. “The re- said one source. “For example, if Metro ates in Target stores. While building the structured apparel organization is built 7 has six racks in a store now, they might profi le of the young designers, the collec- around brands that make clear state- double that to 12 racks. It’s a broader as- tions generally aren’t sold in all Target ments and whose teams are accountable sortment and point of view. It’s giving the stores and are seen by many as primarily a for fi nancial returns and fully leveraging consumer additional options and devel- marketing exercise. And even here, Target suppliers to effi ciently deliver the prod- oping an item-driven business. The focus is facing increasing competition with fast- uct the customer wants,” he said. of Metro 7 has shifted from a collection fashion lines: Where once it had the fi eld As for the competition, the economic point of view to one of key items.” to itself, stores such as H&M are now sign- downturn has been squeezing Target’s Asked about Metro 7, Blakely said: ing up the likes of Roberto Cavalli, Karl aspirational low- and moderate-income “We’ve been making changes in our ap- Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney. customers. The retailer’s comp-store parel offering on an ongoing basis and Erin Armendinger, managing director sales were down 5 percent in December, our customers are responding well to of the Jay Baker Retailing Initiative at versus a 2.4 percent gain at Wal-Mart. some of those changes. We’re fl exing the the Wharton School of the University of Target said it expects same-store sales fl oor all the time.” Pennsylvania, said the frequency of Go may for January to come in at the low end of Some of the initiatives have been at- be a lot for the average consumer to digest. an earlier estimate of a decline of 1 per- tributed to Dottie Mattison, senior vice “The collections were supposed to be out cent to a 1 percent gain. The chain ac- president and general merchandise man- for three months, then they shortened it to knowledged its apparel sales were off in Robert Buchanan. “They’re doing a better ager of women’s, who was promoted after six weeks,” she said. “It’s too much for the November and December. job of interpreting trends for their core Claire Watts, vice president of merchan- consumer, given that the designers are a Over the last year, Target’s stock price customer. They’re emphasizing juniors dising, resigned in July. Mattison is based little quirky and too out there.” has fallen 12.8 percent to close at $52.38. more in terms of fl oor placement. After in the company’s New York fashion of- What also may be ailing Target is During the same period, Wal-Mart’s rose 3.2 all, juniors is the best trend opportunity fi ce, which occupies a 50,000-square-foot what’s ailing the industry at large: a de- percent to close at $49.16 on Wednesday. they have, so why not lead with it? George space in the Garment District. The offi ce cided lack of salable newness. A lack of Now Target faces the task of replacing is less dowdy than it was. The stores with had a staff of about 10, has grown to more novelty along with a tough economy is a a major revenue generator for its cloth- their transitional products look better than 80 people and will swell again. double whammy for the discounter. ing business: designer Isaac Mizrahi, than I’ve seen them look.” “A big part of the [Metro 7] assort- Bill Dreher, a retail analyst at ment is very accessible,” the source said. Deutsche Bank, noted Target reined in its “Dottie has made a point of saying that buyers as the economy worsened, which [Wal-Mart] is more in tune with their target she wants to own the under $10 apparel led to the drab assortments. “As far back “ market. Not 100 percent of Metro 7 will as April, when they started recognizing customer than they’ve been for several years now. be under $10, but there can be polo shirts the [economic] slowdown, management and great-quality T-shirts for that price. was clamping down on buyers to reduce They’re doing a better job of interpreting trends for In balancing the assortment, the price- risk in form of inventory levels as well as value relationship is being exceptionally the variety of the product,” he said. “We their core customer. focused on. Dottie understands that she interpreted that to mean that they were ” needs to have accessible product.” limiting buyers to the more mainstream — Robert Buchanan George doesn’t yet bear Dottie’s im- fashions and colors, those more likely to primatur, the source said, adding, “You’ll be accepted and have very strong sell- whose contract is not being renewed at For example, George features bell- see new labels and new brands.” throughs. They limited the creativity of the end of the year and who is becoming sleeve blouses, Empire dresses and faux Wall Street analysts said inventory the buyers because they wanted to re- creative director for the Liz Claiborne wrap dresses, many in black or geometric levels are substantially lower at Wal- duce inventory risk. They only wanted to brand. Mizrahi’s line did about $300 mil- prints in a sophisticated color palette of Mart. “They entered the fourth quarter go with the strong sellers.” lion at Target and analysts estimate the black, teal and beige. There’s also a black very light on inventory,” one said. “They Mizrahi’s departure will put pressure retailer will have to replace $400 million pinstripe one-button jacket and a navy found themselves short on product.” on Target to inject some newness into its to $500 million of lost revenue upon his jewel-neck cropped jacket. “Wal-Mart has seen improvement,” assortments. “I wouldn’t be surprised if departure, given that shoppers buying “George has taken the spotlight in said Hood. “Wal-Mart got back to basics Target ends up picking one of the Go de- Mizrahi clothes also bought other prod- terms of trying to highlight a more fash- and is less aspirational. There is a focus signers for a 12-months-a-year program,” ucts while there. ionable look,” said Neil Curry, a retail an- on the $10 price. A year ago [apparel] was said Dreher. “Given the nature of the Some experts said Mizrahi’s collection alyst at UBS Securities. “It’s more about down 15 percent. In the fall season, ap- business, consumers are moving away — and Target’s apparel in general — was fashionable basics.” The design direction parel was down in the very low-single dig- from apparel. They’re losing a designer beginning to look a bit tired. “I think seems to be “a relatively young look with- its. Wal-Mart is rethinking the business. in a category that’s not doing well right it’s always a challenge for someone like out taking too many risks. They’re mak- It’s very good at basics and has dramati- now. It wouldn’t behoove the company to [Mizrahi] to continue to reinvent them- ing good inventory decisions so they’re cally improved the quality of the basics.” fi nd a household name who one day stood selves,” said Wayne Hood, a retail analyst neither out of stock on key items nor left The refocusing at Wal-Mart comes as for premier fashion and no longer does. I at BMO Capital Markets. “I don’t believe with too many items. Wal-Mart has always retail experts say Target lost traffi c over suspect they’re going to go out and fi nd one designer should have such a large been good on basics. Now they’re trying to the holiday season, a trend that may con- another has-been designer to provide role that, if they falter, it creates a risk to move toward a more fashionable look.” tinue, given the retailer’s strong focus class for the masses.” the apparel offering. It’s better to be di- The company is intent on avoiding its on soft goods and home decor. “Wal-Mart In addition to Mizrahi’s business in verse. Department stores stayed with cer- fashion blunders of 2006 when it bet too has a much greater commitment to gro- stores, there’s a large wedding and party tain labels for too long” and it hurt them. heavily on skinny-leg jeans and jackets with cery than Target, and grocery does better shop on the Target Web site, featuring Target has bigger issues to deal with, faux fur collars in the Metro 7 collection. when times are lousy,” said Mark Lilien, gowns, veils, headpieces, gloves, brides- as well. First, its longtime chairman, Tuesday’s restructuring of the apparel a consultant at Retail Technology Group. maids dresses, shoes, handbags and Robert Ulrich, is retiring on May 1 and division is meant to avoid such miscalcu- Richard Seesel, a principal of Retailing formal dresses. Many, but not all, of the will be replaced by company president lations in the future. Brand merchandis- In Focus LLC and a former executive of products carry the Mizrahi label. “They Gregg Steinhafel. And while for the last ing, which is responsible for building Kohl’s Corp. and Dayton Hudson, said, haven’t really disclosed what they’ll do decade Target’s performance has bound- private label brands, will be responsible “Wal-Mart had better performance, but it’s with Isaac’s bridal business,” Hood said. ed past Wal-Mart’s with an emphasis on for brand positioning, assortment devel- selling more necessities and consumables “Other [designers] will come in and do design and style — at slightly higher pric- opment, textile design, vendor selection, and has less dependence on discretionary that. At least for the time being, they’ll es — those attributes become less impor- sampling and cost negotiation. The group products.” Target’s designer and exclusive continue to grow it. Bridal is successful.” tant to consumers as the economy slows. will be based in New York. The buying brands are believed to represent 6 per- But, while the seesaw appears to be The diffi cult macroeconomic climate organization, which will continue to be cent of total sales of about $63 billion. fl ipping, with Wal-Mart now on the rise, seems to be working in Wal-Mart’s favor based in Bentonville, will be responsible “There comes a time when the cycle there’s little doubt Target’s apparel busi- as the Bentonville, Ark., giant benefi ts for maximizing space productivity; se- could be working against them,” Hood ness will get back on a strong growth from its position as the low-price leader. lecting the product, both private label said, referring to Target. “As things begin track. “They’ve got a strong track record Wal-Mart continues to hammer home its and from national suppliers; setting pric- to slow down, the average ticket price developing merchandise content and low-price message. On Tuesday, the re- ing, and in-store allocation in conjunc- and traffi c begin to fall. They have to developing ideas,” said Seesel. “This is tailer said it was cutting prices on “thou- tion with the planning and replenish- worry about inventory levels. For that more macroeconomic.” WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 15 WWD.COM

HONORING TINA found 95 percent of all unsold newsstand magazines AND JACK: Tina are recycled by newsstands and publishers. — A.W. Brown hasn’t MEMO PAD worked in A NEW CONTRIBUTOR: Chloë Sevigny has signed on with magazines Elle U.K. as a “style adviser.” Beginning with the since the folding of Talk in 2002, while Jack Kliger, March issue, the “Big Love” actress will regularly chief executive of Hachette Filipacchi Media, has his pen a column as a fashion expert, answering readers’ elbows deep in them every day. Both were honored fashion and style questions every month. The issue Wednesday for their respective careers with Lifetime also includes a piece from the Wall Street Journal’s Achievement Awards from the American Society of new lifestyle magazine editor, Tina Gaudoin, exploring Magazine Editors and the Magazine Publishers of fashion’s new eco-awareness. Sevigny is on the March America. Brown was inducted into the Magazine cover, which hit newsstands Wednesday. — A.W. Editors’ Hall of Fame, and Kliger was handed this year’s Henry Johnson Fisher Award (past winners BIG BROTHER: Be careful when chewing gum, yawning include former Time Inc. chief Don Logan, Hearst or indulging in any other eyebrow-raising activity Magazines president Cathie Black and Playboy founder during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week — someone Hugh Hefner). The two were given gushing praise by somewhere in the world could be watching. On their peers over lunch at Gotham Hall, including a Friday, American Express will launch the American rap by Time Inc. chief executive homegirl Ann Moore Express Fashion Network, an online service that to her “trusted pal” Kliger via video, a video greeting will bring the live action at the Bryant Park tents by S.I. Newhouse Jr. and an impassioned introduction to americanexpress.com/style. The company has of Brown by IAC/InterActiveCorp chief Barry Diller set up Webcams throughout the tents and will offer (who took time out from his latest street fi ght, this live streams the entire week, from runway shows to time with fellow mogul John Malone over control of backstage views and other tent areas. Viewers will IAC). Diller didn’t fl oss over the Talk episode — nor have an option of streams to watch, and the network did Brown, who also edited Tatler, Vanity Fair and also will provide special interviews with designers The New Yorker. She summarized her magazine and industry executives, fashion forecasts and trend career as “three weddings and a funeral.” Before the reports. Robert Verdi is the network’s offi cial host, with crowd could fi lter out of the ballroom, Kliger, a wine Roshumba Williams serving as a special correspondent. collector, had already picked out a bottle from his cellar to celebrate his award with his fi ancée, Amy Griggs. “We’re having a bottle of 1970 Château Haut- Brion.” — Stephanie D. Smith

NOW THEY’LL GET TO SIGN AUTOGRAPHS: Nina Garcia has practically become a household name, thanks to “Project Runway” and now, Elle colleagues Joe Zee and Anne Slowey may get their crack at TV stardom at last. The Hollywood Reporter on Wednesday reported that Tyra Banks and Ken Mok of “America’s Next Top Model” are a few of the producers behind a new reality series on the CW Network described as “The Devil Wears Prada”-meets-“The Assistant.” And, while the story said the producers are A view of the online American Express Fashion Network. negotiating with a “leading fashion magazine,” there were no details about which title. “The American Express Fashion Network enables WWD has learned Zee and Slowey, who serve designers and industry insiders to highlight the shows, as creative director and fashion news director, share their personal views and gain meaningful respectively, are very close to completing a deal visibility with consumers everywhere who are that would make them judges on the show — and passionate about fashion,” said Jessica Igoe, director opine about fashion with the same fanfare as of sponsorship marketing for American Express. The their deskmate, Garcia. The ultimate prize for the live stream will run throughout the week, and clips will contestants would be a job at Elle, working for be available for viewing afterward. American Express Zee. The reality show doesn’t have a name yet, also plans to syndicate videos to other Web sites and but sources say the working title is “Fashionista.” is posting the Fashion 360 Presented by American Calls to Zee and Slowey were not returned by press Express program with highlights from the network on time. A spokesman at the CW said no deal has been YouTube. — Marc Karimzadeh fi nalized with any magazine editors. — Amy Wicks PUTTING ON A SHOW: The precious few red-carpet RECYCLING AS AD REVENUE: New York Mayor events in light of the writers’ strike has cut into Michael Bloomberg on Wednesday revealed plans magazines like In Style’s bread and butter, so the to launch a campaign to increase residential fact that the Grammys were allowed to go on must recycling of magazines and catalogues. Beginning seem like a godsend. Accordingly, the magazine next week, full-page ads will begin appearing in is putting together a fashion show for celebrity consumer magazines, among other outlets, for musicians-turned-designers in Los Angeles next week ReMix (Recycling Magazines Is Excellent). Media to kick off the festivities. Curated by the magazine’s placement in New York totals approximately $3 fashion director, Hal Rubenstein, it will feature spring million. The national ReMix campaign was created apparel by Beyoncé and Tina Knowles’ House of by Time Inc., with partners Verso Paper and the Deréon, Sean Combs’ Sean John Women’s, Jay-Z’s National Recycling Coalition. Rocawear, Jennifer Lopez’s justsweet, Jessica Simpson’s Prior to launching in New York, pilot programs Jessica Simpson Collection and Justin Timberlake’s have begun in Boston; Milwaukee; Portland, Ore., William Rast, with the sponsored presences of Paul and Prince George’s County, Md. In New York, Mitchell, Cover Girl, Steve Madden and Le Vian. Hearst Magazines is a partner. The ReMix campaign (Though this is a single event that will be covered began after a study by Time Inc. and Verso Paper, both in the magazine and other venues, comparisons which discovered that only about 17 percent of sold to Condé Nast’s “Fashion Rocks” special are perhaps magazines are recycled. Incidentally, the study also inevitable.) — Irin Carmon Danish Fashion Institute Weighs In on Models By Katya Foreman the New Black” and “The Weight underweight models from its of Your Worth Is Not Measured runways. Since then, fashion he Danes are the latest to in Kilos.” councils in Milan, New York Tcome to the rescue of too- “Instead of enforcing boundar- and London have initiated vari- skinny models — albeit about ies or legislation, we’re trying to ous regulations and guidelines two years after everyone else. encourage awareness about eat- aimed at monitoring the working The Danish Fashion Institute, ing disorders,” said Eva Kruse, conditions and health of models. or DAFI — which includes the executive director of DAFI. Most of their steps are similar to brands Noa Noa, Georg Jensen, Pledges listed on the charter those taken by DAFI, emphasiz- Jens Laugesen and Elite Models include laying out “wholesome ing voluntary guidelines rather among its members — has joined food” on photo shoots and at than strict regulations. forces with an eating-disorder shows, providing seminars for Last month, the British organization to draw up industry models on diet and exercise Fashion Council said it would guidelines geared toward pro- and supervising models under carry out spot checks during moting the well-being of Danish age 16. London Fashion Week to en- models. Also, posters have gone Madrid Fashion Week took sure that no models working are up around Copenhagen featur- action against the size-zero phe- younger than 16 and that the city’s ing slogans such as “Eating Is nomenon in 2006 when it banned show venues are free of drugs. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 WWD.COM Elkann to Launch Care Label at amfAR Event Bebe Teams With Subkoff By Alessandra Ilari both publicly and personally. By Julee Kaplan A pair of It’s not so much how you hit the MILAN — Lapo Elkann has found Care Label fl oor, but how you get up.” ebe and Tara Subkoff a high-wattage launch board for jeans. Aside from Elkann, who has Bare hooking up. the debut of the Care Label denim a 25 percent stake in the proj- The Brisbane, Calif.- brand — the amfAR gala tonight at ect, there is majority share- based retailer will launch Cipriani 42nd Street in New York. holder and designer Leopoldo a Tara Subkoff for Bebe Mixing goodwill and business, the Durante, whose denim stints capsule collection, to be scion of the Agnelli dynasty will pres- have included consultancies sold in stores beginning ent the year-old Care Label jeans for Evisu, Lee and Wrangler, Saturday. The collabora- line and auction off a special black and Enrico Gallo, who owns tion will kick off an ini- tinted style with a detachable black Torinovantuno, the brand’s tiative for the company diamond rivet that turns into a pen- worldwide distributor. to collaborate with other dant. The dinner will honor Julian Care Label aims to position cutting-edge designers. Schnabel, Carine Roitfeld of French itself as a niche brand that plac- Subkoff is best-known Vogue and Bobby Shriver, founder of es the focus on quality, the best as the founding design- the (Product) Red campaign. fabrics, dyes, fi nishes and erst- er of the Imitation of A look from the Tara “I fi rmly believe in Care Label’s while manufacturing techniques. Christ brand, and the Subkoff for Bebe line. creative ideals and I’m happy to be “We want to make this a beauti- deal with Bebe will be part of this challenge because I don’t ful product and only offer varia- her second collaboration with a retailer. think the denim market is saturated, tions of one product — jeans,” Three years ago, Subkoff designed a line of but offers stratifications that are Elkann said. footwear for Easy Spirit. open to a very specifi c and high-end After a spring capsule col- “I knew a great deal about Tara’s line with product,” Elkann told WWD. lection that was picked up by Easy Spirit, and I really felt that she would be a Made of selvedged denim on 50- a dozen upscale Italian retail- great person to add a bit of edginess to our com- year-old shuttle looms, the tight-fi t ers, fall 2008 offi cially marks pany,” said Greg Scott, Bebe’s chief executive jeans have metal buttons and rivets Care Label’s launch. The of- offi cer. “Tara also really felt that the line should in natural copper and steel. They fering includes jeans in 15 dif- be on par with our own retail prices. She really feature a “Care Label for amfAR” tag and 20 percent of ferent treatments and 12 fabrications. The men’s and wanted the client to be able to buy the clothes the wholesale price will go to charity, an initiative that women’s fi ts range from slim to soft and wholesale for the prices she was accustomed to paying. We will be prolonged after the auction. from $124 to $161. worked really hard to make that happen.” “I fi rst met Lapo three years ago in Cannes,” said Gallo expects Care Label to post sales of $7.3 million The result is what Scott described as a collec- Sharon Stone, amfAR’s global fund-raising chairwom- this year, with 20 percent annual growth over the next tion of basic items that “any woman would need.” an. “He was a nice but distracted and unfocused kid. I two years. Using a palette of black, white and red accented knew his grandfather [Gianni Agnelli], a powerful and Care Labels buys its denim from Japanese leader with an exclusive “heart print,” the 12-piece Tara interesting man, and other members of the family. When Kurabo; treats it at Martelli, the Italian company at the Subkoff for Bebe collection retails from less than Lapo had his crisis [a drug overdose], I was deeply vanguard for washes and fi nishes, and tells consumers $100 for tops and skirts to $120 to $150 for pants, concerned for him and stayed in touch with his family about the workmanship by printing a summary of the dresses and a signature trench. The quilted throughout his ordeal. I encouraged him to change and, process inside its jeans. heart-shaped “Tara” bag retails for $79. because of this, Lapo decided he wanted to do things There’s also an organic style made with eco-friendly Manny Mashouf, Bebe’s founder and chair- differently. I’m very pleased and proud of him and hon- cotton and dyes and a model with a green, white and red man, is on the hunt for more designers with ored that he has chosen amfAR for his project. You have selvedge representing the Italian fl ag. whom to collaborate, Scott said. Through this to hand it to him for being so humble and grounded.… Having struck a deal with Isetan in Japan, Gallo “design lab,” those selected would have the op- Whether he does jeans or toothpaste is not the issue be- now hopes to secure 50 top retailers in the U.S. and 100 portunity to design a capsule collection, but not cause I like him as a person and I like seeing him evolve points of sales in Europe in the fi rst year. all of them would get their name on the label. Bendet’s Business, Résumé Still Growing

NEW YORK — For some, keeping up with Stacey Bendet could be a little rough. The 29-year-old founder of six-year-old contemporary brand Alice + Olivia can’t seem to get her words out fast enough. She is so psyched about her fall line, she pulls items off racks and has a story behind each piece. She can’t wait until her fall presentation, which will take place at her store at 80 West 40th Street here on Feb. 7. The presentation, she contended, will be unique. “Buyers don’t come to the shows to buy, they come to the showrooms for that,” Bendet said. “They come to the shows to be inspired and entertained. I’m going to do that.” Stacey Bendet in her showroom here. For Bendet’s presentation, her store will be trans- MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY formed and sectioned off into four rooms, each highlight- a 50 percent stake in Alice + Olivia. ing a different type — the Upper East Side mom, the “Stacey is a dynamo,” Rosen said. “She is so unique downtowner, the minimalist and the rock ’n’ roll girl. Her in that she is a designer, but she also has this great vision mission, she said, is to show buyers how one dress, pair for her company. She has a real sense of the business and of pants or top can be worn on many women, even if their tremendous talent. It’s because of this combination that styles are very different. she has really developed quite the following.” “We are only showing about 16 looks, but I really Rosen said after a tough holiday season at retail, Alice think that you will absorb so much more from this pre- + Olivia came out as an “outstanding performer,” which sentation than you would by watching 30 or 40 looks gives him and Bendet the confi dence to keep it going. walk by on a runway,” she said, quickly checking “The hardest thing for me has been to keep up with the her BlackBerry. demand, to keep up with the production,” Bendet said. Meanwhile, Bendet’s business is growing. She “But I am pretty sure that we are doing all the right things; said by the end of this year, Alice + Olivia should we bring in new people and have it under control.” be a $50 million business. There are fi ve free- The Alice + Olivia collection is sold at high-end special- standing stores in New York; Southampton, N.Y.; ty stores such as Atrium, Henri Bendel and Shopbop.com Greenwich, Conn., and Los Angeles. By the end of and at better department stores such as Bloomingdale’s. 2008, Bendet said she will have at least two more Two looks from Alice + Olivia’s Seventies- The brand has been a consistent strong seller. stores, in Beverly Hills and in Malibu, Calif. She’s inspired collection for fall and patent “They are just so easy to work with,” said Ann Watson, also looking for a location in Miami, and is open- leather wedge for her line for Payless. fashion director at Henri Bendel. “They know what we ing a showroom in Los Angeles in April. should keep it fresh and updated, so this is going to are looking for and are so great at making it happen.” “All of our stores are beating plans,” Bendet said. be really fun.” Shopbop.com buyer Kate Ciepluch agreed. “Especially our store on Robertson [in Los Angeles]. We Bendet has come a long way since launching her “Alice + Olivia is appealing because Stacey covers are selling so much there, we are 30 percent above plan.” company six years ago with a great fi tting pants style, her bases — she provides knit dresses that can be worn Bendet said she is working with Slatkin & Co. on the Stacey Pant, which remains a top seller. She started to work, killer pants, dresses that instantly make you the development of a full line of candles. She has also the company with then-partner Rebecca Matchett, who feel sexy,” she said. “She keeps girls in awe by hitting signed a licensing agreement with Homestead to launch is now co-founder of another contemporary sportswear trends before anyone else. Her conservative pieces are a full collection of home products, including bedding, company, Rebecca & Drew. Only a few months into busi- still a little funky and the fi t on her pants is stellar. She and possibly even furniture. She said they are in the ness, Bendet split from Matchett to team up with Theory was ahead of the curve by offering fl oor-length dresses, fi rst stages of planning the line and it probably won’t chief executive offi cer Andrew Rosen, whom she met body suits to be worn with high-waisted pants and wide- launch for at least another year. just after college when she was working as a Web site de- leg pants. She constantly updates staples, which gives “I am a fi rm believer that you should treat your signer. Rosen, who invests in contemporary apparel fi rms the customer a reason to buy more.” home like you treat your wardrobe,” she said. “You such as Rag & Bone and Gryphon, and Bendet each own — J.K. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 17 WWD.COM Fortunoff Said Exploring Reorganization IFF Profi ts Slip in Qtr. By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Fragrance supplier International Flavors & Fragrances said ewelry and home furnishings retailer Fortunoff has stopped paying its bills in Wednesday that fourth-quarter profits slipped 1.6 percent on higher interest ex- Jrecent weeks and could be considering Chapter 11 bankruptcy court protection as penses. well as other options to reorganize its business, financial sources said. The company Net earnings for the quarter ended Dec. 31 were $47.2 million, or 58 cents a said it is considering strategic alternatives. diluted share, from almost $48 million, or 53 cents a share, in the same period a One credit source stressed that a bankruptcy fi ling is only one option. A bankruptcy year ago. Excluding nonrecurring items such as restructuring charges, disposi- would give the specialty retailer some breathing room from its creditors. tion of assets and a tax benefi t, earnings per share for the fourth quarter were 53 Another option would be for the founding Fortunoff family, which retains a minor- cents, compared with 45 cents a year ago. Wall Street analysts expected earnings ity stake and still owns some valuable real estate, to sell some of those assets, sourc- per share of 54 cents, according to Yahoo Finance. es said. Other sources speculated the company could be bought by another retailer. IFF’s quarterly sales increased by 7.6 percent to $553.5 million, from $514.3 Fortunoff said in a statement: “Fortunoff has been and is continuing to work with million a year ago. its fi nancial advisors to consider the complete range of strategic alternatives for the Robert M. Amen, chairman and chief executive offi cer, described the quarter company. Our stores are fully staffed and open for business as usual, and we remain as “strong,” citing solid performance within the fi rm’s fl avors business, which committed to serving our customers.” grew 16 percent to $253 million. Within the fragrance business, however, which Meanwhile, other industry sources said there is speculation an Indian investor may grew by 2 percent to $300 million, fi ne fragrance and beauty care experienced look to acquire the retailer — but only if it fi les for bankruptcy protection. weakness in North America and Europe. Another source cited the retail environment and a slowdown in sales of the retail- Last year “was a tough year for our fragrance [business] after a superb 2006,” er’s home furnishings categories, which include giftware and tabletop, as two of the Amen said. “Fine [fragrance] and beauty [care] performed well until the fourth reasons for the company’s fi scal woes. quarter, [which] ended 15 consecu- The credit source also said that, after a majority stake in the retailer was sold to tive quarters of growth for the fi ne a private equity group in 2005, many factoring fi rms had stopped assessing the cred- [fragrance] business.” In total, fine itworthiness of the company since fi nancial information was no longer being sent to fragrance and beauty care sales were BEAUTY BEAT them. Fortunoff, he said, has been getting merchandise from vendors, with suppliers down 2 percent for the quarter. taking on the risk of not getting paid. There was strength in the fragrance business in Asia, where sales rose 12 per- One contact close to fi ne jewelry suppliers said they and others have shipped to cent during the fourth quarter, and in Latin America, where 4 percent growth in Fortunoff since the sale in 2005 at their own risks because the “retailer had a reputa- fi ne fragrance and beauty care sales offset slight declines in functional fragrance tion for always paying their bills.” and ingredient sales. The retailer supposedly stopped paying its bills at the beginning of the year, sources Yearly profi ts increased 9.1 percent to $247.1 million from $226.5 million in 2006. said, and a recent deal to secure a fi nancing package fell through earlier this month. IFF posted annual earnings per share of $2.86 last year, a 13.7 percent rise In August, Fortunoff sold the lease of its New York fl agship at 681 Fifth Avenue from $2.48 in 2006. Adjusted earnings per share for the full year were $2.66 com- near 54th Street. The store relocated to 3 West 57th Street. pared with adjusted earnings per share of $2.32 in 2006, a 14.7 percent increase. The Fortunoff family sold a majority stake to Trimaran Capital Partners and K Annual sales neared $2.28 billion, an 8.6 percent rise from $2.1 billion in 2006 Group, which was in part to help fi nance the $500 million chain’s expansion in the on fragrance sales that grew 6 percent to $1.27 billion. New York and New Jersey markets and eventually into other areas across the U.S. Shares of IFF traded down Wednesday, closing at $39.48, a decrease of $4.02, Fortunoff was founded in 1922 by Max and Clara Fortunoff. Their son, Alan, or 9.24 percent. served as president and chief executive offi cer until his death in July 2000. Since — Matthew W. Evans then, his wife, Helene, has stepped up to take the reins; Louis Fortunoff is her son. Trimaran, headquartered here, has made previous investments in Urban Brands, a plus-size apparel company under the Ashley Stewart name; Reddy Ice, a leading packaged-ice supplier, and Educational Services of America, a special education Coco Ribbon Enters Beauty school operator. LONDON — Coco Ribbon is bringing its boudoir touch to bathrooms. K Group, also based here, makes private equity investments in lifestyle and luxury The luxury lifestyle brand has introduced a bath and body line dubbed CR by consumer products and retail businesses, including Harry Winston and Rubbermaid. Cocoribbon. The fi ve-unit collection is meant to round out the brand’s offerings, — With contributions from Jeanine Poggi which include apparel, chandeliers, artwork, furniture, lingerie and jewelry. “We create all our Coco Ribbon products to be playful, unique and chic,” said Alison Chow, who, with her business partner, Sophie Oliver, founded the brand in 2002. “Our philosophy for this range is Footwear Sales Cited as Boost for Tod’s a little bit of luxury every day.” By Andrew Roberts 19.5 percent in 2006. All products in the beauty line However, a disappointing Christmas feature a fl ower complex made with MILAN — Italian luxury group Tod’s season and a strong euro undermined extracts of lotus, Chinese rose, black SpA on Wednesday posted double-digit sales of leather goods and accessories, orchid and iris. The blend is said to revenue growth in 2007 despite a slow- the company said, without going into de- soothe and soften skin to minimize down in retail sales and the underper- tail, although it did note the Pashmy fab- the effects of free radical damage. formance of leather goods and accesso- ric bag collection had performed well. Other ingredients include sweet al- ries in December. Sales of leather goods and accessories mond oil, coconut oil and vitamin E. Buoyed by strong demand for high- advanced 4.2 percent to 139.2 million Coco Ribbon’s bath and body products. The lineup comprises Little quality footwear in Italy and the rest of euros, or $190.8 million. Miracle Balm, Heaven for Hands, Europe, Tod’s preliminary sales for the Revenues from apparel rose 10.2 Dream Body Cream, Angel Skin Bath Oil and Angel Skin Scrub. Prices range from 12 months ended Dec. 31 grew 14.7 per- percent to 89.2 million euros, or $122.3 22 pounds, or $43.65 at current exchange, for a 50-ml. tube of hand cream to 40 cent to 657 million euros, or $900.6 mil- million. pounds, or $79.37, for a 250-ml. jar of body scrub. lion at average exchange. Geographically, sales in Italy, Tod’s Distribution of CR by Cocoribbon includes the brand’s Notting Hill boutique, Tod’s chairman and chief executive biggest market, climbed 19.3 percent Selfridges and Fenwick department stores, as well as a handful of independent offi cer Diego Della Valle said he expect- to 333.4 million euros, or $457 million. retailers here. International launch plans have yet to be confi rmed. Industry ed full-year profi tability to be above the Revenues in other European countries sources estimate the brand could generate retail sales of about 300,000 pounds, results achieved in the fi rst nine months increased 10.6 percent to 160.8 million or $595,293, in its fi rst year. of 2007. However, he cautioned profi ts euros, or $220.4 million. The strong euro — Lana Rose Silva would likely be below company expecta- bit into sales growth in the United States tions, “due to the deceleration of retail and Asia. The company noted revenues sales in December and to the unfavor- in the U.S. rose 10.4 percent to 66.3 mil- able exchange rates.” lion, or $90.9 million, but would have Net profi ts for the nine months ended climbed nearly 20 percent at constant Sept. 30 rose 8.9 percent to 57.3 million exchange rates. Esprit Reports 37% Rise in Earnings euros, or $76.8 million. Sales for the pe- Sales in Asia and the rest of the world riod advanced 14.1 percent to 499.9 mil- were 96.5 million euros, or $132.3 mil- ong Kong-based apparel retailer Esprit, to eye key companies. lion euros, or $670 million. lion, up 9.6 percent or 17.2 percent at HEsprit Holdings Ltd. on Wednesday The retailer’s portfolio includes the Tod’s is slated to release full-year constant exchange rates. posted a 37 percent jump in earnings edc line, which targets a younger shop- 2007 profi ts on March 28. By channel, group revenues were al- in the half and said it is considering per. A new product line, de.corp Esprit Looking to the current year, Della most evenly split across directly operated possible acquisitions. Urban Casual, will launch in March. Valle remained optimistic, citing “very stores (DOS) and third-party retailers. For the six months ended Dec. 31, “We see the potential weakening of positive results” in all product lines for DOS sales rose 12.3 percent to 318 earnings reached 3.3 billion Hong Kong global economic conditions as an op- sales of spring 2008 collections. million euros, or $435.9 million, driven dollars, or $422 million. Sales for the portunity to gain market share, par- In 2007, the Tod’s and Hogan brands by organic growth in existing stores period grew 27 percent to 18.5 billion ticularly through retail expansion,” continued as the group’s engine, provid- and by 15 openings in 2007, Tod’s said. HKD, or $2.4 billion. Dollar fi gures are management said in a statement. ing over four-fi fths of revenues. Sales of the Same-store sales grew by a similar per- at the average exchange rate. While Europe accounted for more company’s eponymous brand rose 6.5 per- centage. Revenues from franchised The company said in a statement than 85 percent of the company’s sales, cent to 347.6 million euros, or $476.5 mil- stores and independent retailers to- that results benefi ted from a stronger Esprit is looking to grow its business in lion, while sales at Hogan rose 28.3 percent taled 339 million euros, or $464.7 mil- euro. During a Webcast, the retailer North America and Asia. The company to 199.5 million euros, or $273.5 million. lion, up 17 percent. said it will be looking for acquisi- will invest more than 500 million HKD, The group’s niche brands also per- At Dec. 31, Tod’s distributed its prod- tions and will only purchase brands about $64 million, to open more than formed well. Revenues at apparel brand ucts via 125 DOS and 63 franchised stores. that match the caliber of Esprit. 60 stores globally. Fay increased 9.2 percent to 89.9 million The company released the sales fi g- The move follows a decline in merg- During the six-month period, the euros, or $123.2 million, while sales at lux- ures after the end of trading on the Italian ers and acquisition activity among company opened a new flagship at ury shoemaker Roger Vivier almost tripled stock market Wednesday. The share price private equity players, leaving the Rockefeller Center in New York. to 16 million euros, or $21.9 million. closed down 1.7 percent to 39.99 euros, fi eld open for strategic fi rms, such as — J.P. Revenues from shoes hit 427.1 million or $59.08. It has lost almost a third of its euros, or $585.4 million, an increase of value in the last three months. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 WWD.COM Deréon Enters Intimates, Legwear Italian Industry Looks for Ways NEW YORK — Beyoncé and Tina Knowles have just signed two new li- censing agreements for intimate apparel and legwear for their young contemporary brand, Deréon. To Capitalize on China Market The intimates have been signed with Donna L’Oren, a manufac- By Luisa Zargani which was founded in 2003 and pro- turer of branded and private label intimate apparel here, and will motes the Made in Italy labels in China, consist of a full line of bras, panties, loungewear and sleepwear using MILAN — An agreement aimed at improv- also signed the agreement. such fabrics as Supima cotton, Modal and microdeniers. Targeted to ing relations between Italy and China The first step will be a weeklong major department and specialty retailers, the collection will was signed here Wednesday and marked visit to China in April that will cul- wholesale from $5 to $45. a signifi cant change of attitude within minate with the first international The legwear license has been signed with JBT Group, the nation’s fashion industry toward the Annual Luxury Brands Meeting in based here, and will consist of leggings, tights, knee highs Asian giant, which until recently was Shanghai on April 18 and 19, organized and over the knee styles. Also targeted to major department viewed by most Italian entrepreneurs as by Fondazione Italia Cina and China and specialty stores, the line will wholesale between $4 and a danger rather than an opportunity. Europe International Business School. $14. Both the intimates and legwear are planned for a fall As the Chamber of Fashion divulged As per this first “Fashion Mission,” 2008 launch. stagnant economic trends for 2008, with Romiti and Boselli said they are put- “Intimates and lingerie are such important dimensions to every woman a projected growth in sales of only 1 per- ting together a group of 20 Italian fi rms and are essential in any well-dressed woman’s wardrobe,” Tina Knowles cent to 70.23 billion euros, or $102.63 that will meet with potential partners said. “As a stylist, it’s been such a pet peeve of mine when I see people billion at current exchange, China was and Chinese fashion associations and A sketch from wearing bras with the straps hanging out. It’s my intention to create highlighted as “the only big economy visit Shanghai, Beijing, Hangzhou and Deréon’s new products for the Deréon consumer providing solutions for women that continues to show dynamism.” Tianjin. Ideal candidates are those that intimates and legwear of all sizes with regard to their underpinning needs. There are key Mario Boselli, head of the chamber, have a history or a “story to tell” and line, launching for fall. foundation items that women require to properly support their said, “The main perils for the year do those that are ready to invest in com- bodies and these pieces simply do not exist.” not derive from Chinese competition, munications. Lectures on intellectual Of the legwear, Knowles said, “Young women today need many options for styling but rather from the slowing down of the property and distribution regulations in a look to call their own and we’re so thrilled to be a part of the legwear business that economic cycle in Western economies.” China are also part of the package. allows them to do so. Now we can offer women great, innovative leggings and tights Boselli said Germany helped lead Romiti said, “Italy has not yet ex- that are cohesive with their true personal style.” the growth in the euro currency mar- ploited its competitive edge in China in Besides sportswear, Deréon also produces handbags, shoes, outerwear and hats. kets for the past two years, but a stalled a sector where it represents excellence — Julee Kaplan economy in that country will affect the in terms of creativity and quality around rest of Europe this year. The infl uence the world.” The executive attributed this of exchange rates, along with higher to “administrative and commercial bar- prices of raw materials, deep-set inse- riers and little knowledge of the Chinese Terri Eagle Departs John Hardy curity about the future and pessimism market and its potential.” in the minds of most consumers con- The Fondazione includes founding By Sophia Chabbott June 2005. She previously worked at tributed to a slowdown in the last few partners such as the Italian Ministry of rival jeweler David Yurman, where she months of 2007. On the bright side, how- Foreign Affairs and Ministry of Culture ohn Hardy USA president and chief headed retail operations and was known ever, Boselli said he expects the latter among other state institutions, companies Jexecutive officer Terri Eagle has in the industry as David Yurman’s right- part of 2008 to pick up and holds hope such as Fiat and Pirelli and banks such stepped down, a move that has been an- hand woman. for the emerging markets, “the only as Banca Intesa. Members of the board ticipated by industry insiders. At John Hardy, Eagle helped change ones that are growing and that can com- include Fiat vice president John Elkann A player in the jewelry industry, the the direction of the brand. Her most pensate the stall in the more consoli- and Fausto Tatarella, general manager at Bali, Indonesia-based company has prominent move was in the advertis- dated ones.” publishing giant RCS Medigroup. been through several recent changes. ing effort. She hired Radical.Media, the Sales fi gures for 2007 are still pre- Among the Fondazione’s projects are The biggest came in June when founder agency behind Apple’s iPod campaign, liminary, but the chamber estimated they the Eurostreet project in Hangzhou, in- John Hardy sold his stake to then-com- to create a stable of still life composition grew 2.9 percent to 69.53 billion euros, or augurated in 2005, which is a shopping pany president Damien Dernoncourt, shots, which were meant to highlight the $101.61 billion, in line with expectations. street of Italian labels including Dolce & creative director Guy Bedarida and pri- jewelry, which is ethnically inspired. Boselli said he viewed the agree- Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Ermenegildo vate equity group 3i. Hardy had been Dernoncourt, now the fi rm’s group ment signed with Fondazione Italia Zegna and Ferrari. a central part of the brand, not only as ceo, will be the interim U.S. president Cina as a means to open up the Italian Romiti said it is important to encour- designer, but by appearing in the adver- and ceo, pending the selection of Eagle’s fashion market to Chinese entrepre- age the introduction of Chinese fashion tising campaigns and playing host at his successor. Dernoncourt has been with neurs and for Italian brands to ex- in Italy, as well, although it is still in its Bali compound for his staff. the 19-year-old fi rm since 2003. pand in China, especially those that early stages. “There is no progress if In a statement, Eagle said: “I am He praised Eagle “for her contri- don’t have the strength of big design- we close up,” said Romiti. Boselli con- happy to have contributed to the growth bution to our dynamic growth in the er groups to approach that country. curred. “As long as these products have of the John Hardy brand in the U.S. United States. The company will contin- Former Fiat chairman Cesare Romiti, their own identity, we will work toward and, as I leave to pursue new opportu- ue to focus on building our retail part- currently chairman of the Fondazione, their promotion in Italy.” nities, I am confi dent of the company’s ners’ business throughout the country.’’ ability to build on the foundation we John Hardy is carried by retailers have laid together.” such as Bloomingdale’s, Bailey, Banks Eagle had been USA president since & Biddle and independent jewelers. Adidas Ups Fashion Week Presence didas will fete its sports style di- signed, modeled after artists’ ate- Avision during New York Fashion liers, complete with a library, a station Ann Taylor, Eddie Bauer Trim Staff Week with a series of events, including where customers can design an Adidas the Y-3 show. To be held Sunday at 5 Originals shoe from scratch and a wall By Jeanine Poggi p.m. on Pier 40, the show for the collab- that will feature digital pictures shop- orative line between Adidas and Yohji pers can have taken that will stay up for pecialty retailers AnnTaylor Stores Corp. and Eddie Bauer Holdings Inc., an- Yamamoto is expected to attract celebri- 24 hours. New York’s store on Wooster Snounced restructuring programs on Wednesday in an effort to bolster sales and ties including Ellen Pompeo of “Grey’s between Prince and Houston Streets is improve operations. Anatomy.” the fi rst. After being closed for the last The news was made after the market closed. Ann Taylor’s multiyear program An Adidas spokesman said the line month, it reopens Saturday, with an will include closing 117 underperforming stores and downsizing company head- this season will mix technical fabrics opening event Monday. quarters staff by 13 percent. and basic pieces, or technical pieces and The same night will be a bigger “This restructuring is designed to position us as a stronger, leaner company that basic, including natural, fabrics. The party launching the Adidas Originals can be more agile in responding to economic realities and marketplace opportuni- color palette will be mainly cool blue, Denim by Diesel, with performances by ties. And we are confi dent that this program will not only improve our bottom line, with touches of red and yellow. The set Chromeo as well as Glass Candy. but also enable us to reinvest in our business to drive more profi table growth in the will include an ice wall “that will func- Adidas’ final fashion week event future,” said Kay Krill, president and chief executive offi cer, in a statement. tion as a 230-foot-long glacial backdrop,” on Feb. 5 will return the spotlight to Krill said the program should increase the company’s operating margin by more he said. Y-3. The brand and Yohji Yamamoto than 200 basis points over the next three years. Ann Taylor also will take a cautious Meanwhile, Adidas Originals is striv- Inc. will have an event celebrating the approach to new store growth in 2008 and delay the test of their new concept until ing to get some of the attention its sister openings of both their stores in the 2009, due to economic woes and a slowdown in retail. brand Y-3 has become known for during Meatpacking District. Expected guests Shares of the company jumped 1 percent to $23.06 in after-market trading. fashion week. include Vincent Gallo, Eric Dane from Eddie Bauer said it would cut 123 jobs as the company reorganizes their corpo- Originals’ biggest campaign yet, “Grey’s Anatomy” and Idris Elba from rate staff across three locations. Positions in Seattle, Chicago and Columbus, Ohio, “Celebrate Originality,” is launching with “The Wire.” will be eliminated after the company said in its last earnings call that overall costs Web fi lms, starting with one on Adidas For West Coast Adidas fans, on Friday are too high. founder Adi Dassler, and a partner- the company will hold a launch party in “We have taken a major step to streamline the organization, simplify processes ship with Facebook. In a 16-foot-by-30- Los Angeles for its “1979” limited edi- and focus our resources on our strategic priorities,” said Neil Fiske, president and foot “shoebox” on Broome and Ludlow tion project, in conjunction with sneak- ceo, in a statement. Streets, Adidas will host a Celebrate er store Undefeated and photographer The job cuts, which represent an aggregate of 16 percent of corporate staff, are Originality art show, curated by Justin Estevan Oriol, who has taken photos of part of a broader initiative to slash $25 million to $30 million out of the operating Theroux and Douglas Little, with an people playing basketball. The project, cost structure of the business. opening reception Friday, where Amy which will create 650 pairs of shoes re- Separately, Eddie Bauer announced the appointment of Tony Krohn to division- Sedaris is rumored to be selling her cup- tailing for $450 each, celebrates Adidas’ al vice president of research, design and development for outerwear; and Joe Moji cakes for a nickel. The show will be open ties to basketball by focusing on its 1979 to divisional vice president of fi nancial planning and analysis. to the public from Saturday to Feb. 9. launch of the Originals Top Ten basket- Shares of the company rose 1.4 percent to $6.01, in after-market trading. The more than 40 Adidas Originals ball sneaker. stores globally also are being rede- — Whitney Beckett WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2008 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Design Assistant Bridge Co skees highly motivated & creative indiv. Computer skills and the CLOTHING WAREHOUSE LIQUIDATION ability to work in a fast paced environ- 300,000 UNITS ment. Fax resume to: 201-964-5816 Account Exec- Kids 90-95% OFF WHOLESALE We are seeking key girls 7-14 account JAN 31st & FEB 1st from 8am - 5pm exec. Must have strong following and Small lots + Large Lots avail solid connects w/major dept/chain 480 Main Avenue unit 4 Division Head- stores. Pls email resume w/account list Wallington , NJ 07057 & salary reqs to: [email protected] Call 973-777-3852 Jr’s Accessories/Handbags Designer / Merchandiser Well established Gold & Sliver Mfr. & Full mgmt responsibility of sales, Distributor seeks an exp’d. Designer / Account Exec - Sweaters & merchandising licensed and Merchandiser to identify & merchandise We are seeking key junior/missy account generic. Must have 5+ yrs into new growth opportunities. Must exec. Must have strong following and be able to work w/Dept./Specialty Stores solid connects w/major dept chain exp in similar capacity. Excellent and Mass market buyers to grow sales stores. Pls email resume w/account list salary, incentives, benefits. E-mail and distribution. International travel & salary reqs to : [email protected] LEADING SLEEPWEAR COMPANY EXPANDING resume to: [email protected] will be required. Please E-mail resume INTO NEW LUXURY DESIGNER BRANDS! to: [email protected] BUGABOO High end, branded leader in industry is seeking Sales Account Mgr. in N.Y.C. New Jersey - Share Space Available SLEEPWEAR DESIGNER ADMIN/PROD ASST with 3-4 years exp. Duties for the Sales Clean/Safe/lots of Windows Toy div of access co. seeks hard work- Account Mgr. will include development +/- 500 sq’ office +/- 500 sq’ warehouse Exciting opportunity for designer with 3 to 5 years ing, reliable assistant to work in fast DRAPER and execution of tactical programs to + common areas - $1,500.00 mo. paced environment. Good computer Bridge Company seeks a talented grow new, and maintain existing busi- Call Tom: 732-715-3525 experience. Would prefer some sleepwear experience skills a must. Email, Word, & Excel. draper. Min 5 yrs exp. Fax resume to: ness in the territory. Experience in the Great entry level position. Fax resume 201-964-5816 luxury goods industry a plus. Please Showrooms & Lofts but not mandatory. Must be extremely creative and 212-869-7811- Attn: EB E-mail resume along with salary BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS able to bring new ideas & concepts to market. For the history in order to be considered to: Great ’New’ Office Space Avail right person there are many design opportunities within [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 our company. Many opportunities for advancement. ALEXIA ADMOR NY Draper Junior Sales Executive Contemporary dress mnftr seeks draper Seeking a motivated self-starter to SALES EXEC & SALES ASSOC. for daytime and evening dresses. 5 yrs assist Sales Manager in running Multi- CAD TEXTILE DESIGNER Contemp. dress co w/industry buzz exp. Great oppty. Fax to: 212-382-3623 Million division of a better ladies appa- seeks corp. sales people for ny office rel manufacturer. Potential for growth E-mail: joseph@ alexiaadmor.com commensurate with abilities. Must Exciting opportunity for a CAD Textile Designer with 3 have major store experience, esp. Fed- SHOWROOM AVAILABLE plus yrs experience. Job is Photoshop based. Candidate erated, be detail oriented, computer Beautiful Contemp Showroom to share. Sample Maker/ Bridal Fitting $25/hr literate, able to multi-task, and have 214 West 39 St. 1,600.00 p/mth. must have a strong background in print, coloring, and A/R, A/P PERSON Runway Eveningwear-Bridal Mfr knowledge of retail math. Benefit Please call to see: 956-791-5566 repeats are a must! Midtown Apparel Co. Seeks person Sample Cutter $52-60K package included. exp’d in A/R, Billing, Factor Assignments, Runway Contemp Designer Email: [email protected] credit approvals, credit card transactions [email protected] 212-947-3400 PLEASE EMAIL RESUME TO: [email protected] and A/P posting. Knowledge of Microsoft Excel and strong written and SALES REPS WANTED verbal communication skills are essential. Fast Growing Lingerie importer/ manu- Email: [email protected] facturer (private label available) seek- Shipping/Warehouse Mger ing independent sales reps Apparel Mfg. seeks exp’d hands on w/established relationships with major person to run Jersey City warehouse. Dept/Chain Stores & specialty retailers Customer Service/ Ideal candidate must have 4-7 yrs exp. throughtout the United States/Canada. in all aspects of shipping, receiving, al- We would like to meet you at the Las Sales Asst. location, inventory control and export Vegas Magic Show on February 12 Sportswear Co. is seeking an individual documentation. Knowledge of EDI, through February 15. Booth # CL CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING w/excellent communication, writing & ASN, UCC 128 & shipping requirements 18914. Any other questions contact: U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 organizational skills. Must be able to for upscale dept. and specialty stores is [email protected] or www.sanodesignservices.com handle major dept. store issues. Please a must. Needs to be a hands on leader Call: 213-747-7048 email resume with salary reqs to: and able to motivate staff in a positive DENIMS TO SELL [email protected] way. Excellent salary & co. benefits. Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. Please apply in confidence to: Camo Available. Cheap Prices. [email protected] 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL Patterns/Samples/Production Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. TEXTILE PRINT Any Style Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 DESIGNER Must be proficient in print development, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, cad’s, color separation and repeats, and DESIGNER - Sr. Level must have complete knowledge and Dresses & Sportswear; Knowledge of PRODUCTIONS understanding of fabric development. first pattern, cutting; Domestic/import All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Incredible opportunity for a creative, experience. China/India Call Sherry 212-719-0622. organized professional, great work Call: 845-496-6750 / Cell: 914-261-0397 environment!!! Please e-mail resume PATTERNS, SAMPLES, to: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Search hundreds of positions in sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 fashion, retail and beauty.

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