NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS

$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 19 MAY 10–16, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS Women in Apparel Technology—How Far Have They Come?

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor

In 2018, two female researchers studied women in tech- nology and asked this question: Do technology companies alienate women in recruiting sessions? The answer was yes. After observing 84 recruitment ses- sions by technology companies on a university campus in the United States, researchers Shelley Correll, head of Stanford University’s Clayman Institute for Gender Research, and Alison Wynn, a postdoctoral researcher, found that fe- male candidates pursuing quantitative degrees in technology fields were often subjected to gender-imbalanced interviews, which left qualified women feeling discouraged. Together they published “Puncturing the Pipeline: Do Technology Companies Alienate Women in Recruiting Ses- sions?” ➥ Technology page 3 Max Azria, Founder of the BCBGMaxAzria Group, Passes Away in Houston

By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor

Max Azria, whose imprint on the world is legendary, passed away on May 6 at The Univer- sity of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center in Houston. He was 70. Sources close to Azria said he died of lung cancer. Azria, who was the youngest of six children and was born in Sfax, , on Jan. 1, 1949, grew up in France and later came to the United States in 1981 after designing women’s apparel in for 11 years. His first fashion venture in Los Angeles was Jess, a chain of new-concept boutiques offering hip French fashion to American women. But Azria wanted to do more and start his own label. So, in 1989, he launched BCBGMaxAzria, with many people wondering what BCBG stood for. It was a French acronym ➥ Max Azria page 4

INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM OWEN KOLASINSKI/BFA.COM

6 9 Trina Turk store anniversary ... p. 2 HAUTE CASUAL Tariff trouble ... p. 2 Students from Otis College of Art and Design showed off their creations at the annual Global Denim to L.A. ... p. 3 scholarship benefit and fashion show at the school’s campus. Ralph Lauren designers Textiles and Trim Resources ... p. 9 were the mentors for these creations. For more looks, see page 7. www.apparelnews.net

01,3,4.cover.indd 1 5/9/19 4:27 PM NEWS Trina Turk Celebrates 10 Years of Retail in Northern Los Angeles designer Trina Turk opened khaki at other stores, although we offer that preview things on the website and then go her first store in 2002 with a location in Palm as well,” she said. into the store and know what they are look- Springs, Calif. Turk, who started her high-end clothing ing for or vice versa.” That 5,000-square-foot store is still going company in 1995, is not launching any new As her 25th anniversary nears, Turk is also strong, but another emporium is proving to stores right away, but she is testing locations expanding her licensed products, working be just as vibrant. This week, Turk celebrat- through one-year leases. with The Jay Companies to develop outdoor- ed the 10th anniversary of her store in Bur- These new stores don’t quite qualify as a living products such as melamine tableware lingame, Calif., a well-to-do suburb some pop-up, but they don’t lock her company into and acrylic glassware; gifts, home fragrances, 15 miles south of San Francisco and not far a long-term commitment before necessary. keepsake boxes and picture frames; and table- from Silicon Valley. “We are definitely experimenting with short- top items such as plates, glassware, tablecloths Even though retail has changed drasti- er-term leases and treating the stores more and napkins.—Deborah Belgum cally in the last 10 years, Turk said the secret ingredient for the Burlingame store is still excellent customer service. “In retail today it is all about devel- oping a personal relationship with the customer,” she said. “I think that is what has been keeping us going for 10 years.” The customers who frequent the Burlingame store are between the ages of 30 and 60 and are like pop-up shops before we sign a long-term mostly professional women involved in their lease,” Turk said. “Landlords are definitely IMPORT/EXPORT communities’ philanthropic activities. willing to discuss that option. In the past they The store’s merchandise is tailored to have not been interested in that idea.” that particular demographic and differs in Another focus is to concentrate more on How Far Will Tariff Expansion some categories from the other 12 stores in e-commerce and omni-channel offerings. the Trina Turk chain. “All our customers “Our web business and our store business gravitate toward print and color. That is what are separate, which is not ideal,” the design- Go in Textiles and Apparel? we do. They can easily find black, navy and er said. “We have noticed that people sort of As the Trump administration threatened 934,000 jobs. to again raise tariffs on $200 billion worth “A sudden tariff increase with less than of Chinese imports as soon as May 10, many a week’s notice would severely disrupt U.S. were wondering how far it would go and businesses, especially small companies that what it would cost the American consumer. have limited resources to mitigate the im- The American Apparel & Footwear pact,” said David French, the NRF’s senior Association, a trade organization of U.S. vice president for government relations. “We clothing and footwear companies, has been want to see meaningful changes in China’s adamantly opposed to the tariffs and has trade practices, but it makes no sense to pun- been fighting to see them eliminated. Last ish Americans as a negotiating tactic.” September, the Trump administration tacked But the National Council of Textile Or- on an additional 10 percent tariff to 6,000 ganizations, a trade group that represents Chinese import items worth $200 billion. much of the U.S. textile sector, has been Now Trump has threatened to raise that pushing to see tariffs on Chinese products 10 percent to 25 percent, although this action expanded to include home-furnishings tex- has been threatened before and postponed a tiles, apparel and textile end products. few times. “Chinese imports of finished goods into Currently the affected imports include the U.S. market have the most significant textiles, handbags, yarns, embroidery and impact on domestic textile and apparel pro- leather as well as other goods including elec- duction, investment and jobs,” said Kim tronics, seafood, produce, cigarettes, carpet- Glas, NCTO’s president and chief executive. ing and beauty products. So far, apparel and “In order to address the crisis, we need to get footwear items are not on the list. to the very heart of the problem.” But Trump is saying he may expand the Glas points out that much of this trade dis- number of Chinese products subject to tariffs, pute is about intellectual property being stolen which could include apparel and footwear. by Chinese manufacturers. Apparel is one of The AAFA calculates that an added 25 the largest sections affected by Chinese fac- percent tariff will result in a family of four tories copying U.S. designs and then passing paying an additional $500 a year on these them off as their own. “In fiscal 2016 and products. 2017, wearing apparel and accessories ac- “As has been made clear by the adminis- counted for one of the single largest segments tration’s use of tariffs during the past year, in IPR seizures,” she said. “Twenty percent of tariffs are an additional tax burden placed all seizures was apparel. The total value of the on Americans,” said Rick Helfenbein, the seizures for wearing apparel and accessories AAFA’s president and chief executive. was $200 million during the past two fiscal “These taxes are not paid by foreign na- years. This is a large and systemic problem.” tions, and they result in higher costs, which But NCTO also wants to see tariffs reduced are simply passed on to the American con- or eliminated on textile and apparel inputs sumer.” that are not produced in the United States and The National Retail Federation, the therefore pose no threat to local industries. United States Fashion Industry As- “Rayon staple fibers serve as a good example sociation and the Council of Fashion of a product that NCTO recommends be re- Designers of America have also been moved from the list,” the trade group said at a pushing to have the tariffs eliminated. hearing last year. “Raising the production costs The National Retail Federation estimates for these inputs will only undercut U.S. com- that the added 25 percent tariff will cost petitiveness for manufacturers that utilize them the average family of four $767 million without bolstering U.S. producers, of which and reduce U.S. employment by more than none exist.” —D.B.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MAY 10–16, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 5/9/19 5:10 PM TEXTILES Global Denim Brings Its Manufacturing Expertise to Los Angeles By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor during Kingpins New York in June 2018. Ecoloop is created a showcase of its products but to also offer a meeting space As a 25-year-old denim manufacturer, Global Denim from yarn that is produced from the company’s own scraps, for fellow denim heads to discuss the industry. knows about navigating changes within the apparel industry. which are yielded during manufacturing and post-consumer “There is a sense of having a denim community, and it’s Committed to using more ecologically sound production, the denim waste. a place to talk and hang out, where you can feel at home, un- Mexico City–based company adheres to a policy of using “We recycle denim,” Finkler said. “We’re finding the perfect like a corporate office,” Finkler said. “It’s the L.A./Cali vibe aniline-free indigo dye, which yields a product that is less mix to incorporate recycling into new products without com- that brands want to translate into their clothing.” abrasive to sensitive skin and less harmful to workers during promising the quality, performance and recovery of the jeans.” With the launch of its Fall 2020/2021 collection occurring the production process. within the next few weeks, “Our True Blue Collection Global Denim is not only is like old-time denim such preparing for the upcoming as Levi’s and Lee but with Kingpins New York show but new quality. It has new fab- also providing an opportunity rics, different colors, added to meet with brands who are stretch, added Tencel and unable to attend the event. a perfected fit,” said Anatt “We can preview for Finkler, creative director of brands that can’t go to the Global Denim. “Brands want bigger shows,” Finkler said. to look like it’s a true denim “We wanted to drop the col- product but with a different lection in L.A. one month feel to the body.” before the June 12–13 New Another clean-denim initia- York show.” tive can be found through the The decision to begin its company’s Blue Feel product. U.S. expansion in Los Ange- Using Tencel, the collection les was due to many factors, attracts customers by offering one of which was the city’s a softer hand than a tradition- history as a denim hub. As al blue jean in addition to its Global Denim’s Arts District showroom in downtown Los Angeles the industry transforms, Fin- more-sustainable manufacture. kler recognizes Los Angeles’ “One thing that we find is that even in this age of technol- In mid-2018, Global Denim quietly expanded to the Los strength in denim, which she sees as growing consistently. ogy is that people go back to their senses,” Finkler explained. Angeles area with a new Arts District showroom. With com- “L.A. is a key denim player, and it’s becoming more im- “Anything that is soft can translate to touch. It’s appealing.” panies such as Amo Jeans in the building, the denim com- portant. Almost all of the premium-denim brands are located Working with its brand partners and mills in Puebla, Mex- munity is thriving within the space. in L.A.,” she said. “It’s the place to be because of the people, ico, where it has the monthly capacity to produce some 4 Global Denim completely occupied its space by 2019, the brands, the environment, the vibe and the history. There million yards of textiles, Global Denim is investing greater officially launching earlier this year. It unveiled the is good momentum. Every month we see new California resources into its Ecoloop collection, which it introduced 2,000-square-foot space at 2301 East 7th St. to accommodate brands make a change.”

Technology Continued from page 1 tentional stereotyping, unequal pay and even negative biases During this time, she applied her love of problem solving to as- toward being a working mother,” she said. “There were plenty sisting retailers with customization and integration. Adding a woman’s perspective to apparel technology of exceptions to these experiences. I’ve also worked on some “Retail, particularly apparel, is so relatable to everyone, and One example of this was Roxy Starr, who worked with com- wonderful teams led by women or men who believe in women it has changed so dramatically in the past 20 years,” Murphy panies including American Eagle, Victoria’s Secret and Liz leadership.” said. “It has been a really fun industry to be a part of, and I’ve Claiborne to improve their internal-communications systems. For Saxena, the problem begins not only at the executive lev- loved helping retailers adapt to the new challenges they face as As a woman building a career in the technology field, Starr en- el but within corporate talent acquisition. When a pool of tech- technology continues to evolve in the space.” countered barriers in a space that she says has been known to be nology candidates doesn’t Murphy’s experience less than welcoming toward women. include women, hiring more working in technology “I was treated as a child by the old boys’ club that would female employees to the has been spread across do anything to hold me back. That experience I’ve translated space is impossible. Saxena different industries. into power,” she explained. “My industry predictions during a sees this as the primary ob- While she feels apparel technology conference in 2007 at [TC]² were discredited be- stacle for women in apparel has been more accom- cause I told everyone that people would start shopping online technology. modating toward wom- and bricks and mortar would start scaling down.” “The biggest challenge is en than other segments, By starting Addlane, a Las Vegas technology company that not having enough women in she has encountered the allows its clients to share and edit media without downloading tech to begin with. In order roadblocks familiar to files and communicate with real-time messaging, Starr is creat- to create change as an in- many female technology ing an easier way for creative professionals to work together in dustry we need to hire more professionals. the corporate sphere. Her hard work has paid off as Starr now women across all teams and “Perhaps it can be at- counts ’s All Saints among her clients. provide them with the tools tributed to the fact that “Apparel is about established processes, building relation- to succeed and become lead- there are many female ships within the brand culture, and proving your value and ers in their industry for the founders and female maturity within the industry,” Starr explained. “Tech is about next generation,” she said. Barkha Saxena Roxy Starr CEOs in apparel,” she invention, embracing change, and remaining agile, relevant and To navigate through the explained. “In general, fresh in an ever-evolving community. To us, adding together ap- career path in apparel technology, Saxena ad- though, there are challenges that still do exist. parel and tech is about integrating technology for business lead- vises other technology-inclined women to seek There have been many times in my career where ers to align with product users in a way that solves real problems out meaningful professional relationships while a male executive would question my expertise within the processes.” remaining aggressive and authentic. She is ex- simply because I was a woman.” While she sees the barriers for female technology profession- cited to cultivate the next generation through her Working at Salesforce has allowed Murphy als eventually falling away, they must still be overcome. “The own work, which allows her to appoint the most to acquire keen insight into how companies issue has not gone away. It’s not a movement, everybody is sit- talented candidates to positions in which they within the apparel industry have either turned ting, we can’t hashtag our way out of this,” she said. “It hasn’t can thrive and best contribute to the company. away from or supported women in technology. changed, but I think it will. There are leaders such as Rose Mar- “We’re starting to see more and more women “Salesforce is an amazing place to be a cario at Patagonia, who is one of our clients. We have to do this in technology leadership roles, including at the woman in technology, and I can see that it spills together, and we have to be strong.” C-level,” she said. “At the same time, many com- over into the customers, specifically the apparel panies are looking to level the playing field in retailers, that we support,” she said. “We also Women who lead in apparel tech tech and are making conscious efforts to bring have some amazing customers that inspire us, change. By the time my 2-year-old daughter Kathryn Murphy like Ashley Stewart, who go beyond just being For Poshmark’s chief data officer, Barkha Saxena, the road grows up, I think it will be a very different world an apparel retailer and support women’s issues to the C-suite in apparel technology was built during a career in than today—in a good way.” across the board.” machine learning and data science. Saxena was appointed to her Offering a caveat to the industry, Murphy advises women in current role in 2019 after starting at the San Francisco company Reflecting on the past, building an equitable future technology and their allies to continue building a better profes- in 2014 as the vice president of data science and analytics. sional atmosphere to benefit all employees and the companies She works with the social-commerce company’s founder At CRM-focused, San Francisco–based software provider where they work. and chief executive officer, Manish Chandra, in an environment Salesforce, Senior Vice President of Product Management of “We can’t get complacent. Things are better, things are good! where Saxena feels valued. Commerce Cloud Kathryn Murphy began her career as a pro- But we must continue to focus and work on creating, encourag- “Prior to Poshmark, I was, at times, confronted with the same grammer in college—the same stage in life when many female ing and promoting our female technology professionals,” she challenges so many women in tech face today such as unin- technology professionals begin exploring this area of study. said. “We can’t check the box and call it done.”

APPARELNEWS.NET MAY 10–16, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3,4.cover.indd 3 5/9/19 4:34 PM NEWS

Max Azria Continued from page 1 debt load of more than $485 million. Three months after filing for Chapter 11 for “bon chic, bon genre,” a phrase that bankruptcy protection, BCBGMaxAzria re- means “good style, good attitude.” By 1992, ceived a bid from a consortium that would Azria had opened his first store, located in keep the Los Angeles brand alive and retain Los Angeles. about 20 stores in its retail fleet. The company was a constant presence The total buyout price put forth by Mar- on the runway at New York quee Brands was $165 million. Global and later expanded its offerings in 1998 by Brands Group Holding, another member acquiring the French label Hervé Leger and of the consortium, would pay $23 million starting a younger label called BCBGen- for inventory and the right to keep as many eration, whose creative director was Azria’s daughter Joyce. Azria’s were worn by celebrities including Drew Barrymore, Selena Gomez and Kim Kardashian, and he was inducted into the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 1998. At one time, the com- pany had more than 550 stores worldwide and was carried by major department stores. His retail outposts were all over the United States and in major international hubs in- cluding London, Paris, and Hong Kong. His clothing could be found on the racks at , Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. “Max had the vision of a superstar,” said Ilse Metchek, president of the California Fashion Association in Los Angeles. “He reached for the moon. He established a brand that was worldwide.” Paul Guez, the founder of several Los Angeles denim companies, was a longtime friend of Azria. He said Azria was not only a genius but a kind and generous person. “He was a very, very successful man, and he had a heart of gold,” Guez recalled. “He was Max Azria probably one of the most generous persons I knew. On top of that, every Friday night he had an open-house Shabbat for anybody. as 22 retail outposts as well as operate the Anybody could go there for dinner and have BCBG e-commerce site. a good time. It was on average 60 people ev- But Azria was always a consummate ery Friday, for years.” businessman, and in 2017 he was named Rosemary Brantley, who founded the chief executive of ZappLight and its parent fashion design department at Otis College company, Clean Concept. of Art and Design in Los Angeles, said ZappLight is an LED lightbulb that is he made chic, clean, modern, well-made, also a bug zapper. It can be used inside the quality clothes. “They really stood out for house or outside on the patio. that,” she said. “It was a sophisticated kind Max Azria’s survivors include his wife, of brand.” Lubov Azria, who was the creative director For years, Azria’s company was very suc- at BCBGMaxAzria Group, and six children: cessful, but in 2016 he left the company af- Michael, Chloe, Marine, Agnes, Anais and ter investors Guggenheim Partners, which Joyce. His brother, Serge Azria, is also in owned most of the enterprise’s debt, took the Los Angeles fashion industry and is the over. In early 2017, the BCBGMaxAzria designer behind the labels Joie, Equipment Group filed for bankruptcy protection with a and Current/Elliott. Calendar

May 11 Grand Tikal Futura Hotel May 19 Guatemala City, Guatemala Unique LA RECon Through May 16 California Market Center Las Vegas Convention Center Los Angeles May 15 Las Vegas Through May 12 Through May 22 Kingpins May 12 InnoCentre May 21 Hong Kong Fashion and Sustainability Premium Textile Japan Through May 16 Summit LIM College Luxe Pack New York New York Javits Center There’s more New York on ApparelNews.net May 14 Through May 16 Texprocess Islands of the World Fashion Messe Frankfurt Exhibition Grounds Showcase For calendar details and contact Frankfurt, Germany 4W43 Building information, visit ApparelNews. Through May 17 New York net/events. Apparel Sourcing Show Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2019 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub lished weekly except semi-weekly first week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

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cala.indd 1 5/9/19 3:57 PM FASHION Octavio Carlin Makes Ready-to-Wear Comeback in Los Angeles SHAPE UP By Andrew Asch Retail Editor ning a larger line. He will continue to work with private clients and make costumes for Los Angeles designer Octavio Carlin is theater productions and films. getting theatrical with his latest venture. Years ago, Carlin ran his Octavio Car- and capture the attention of After taking a few years off from the lin boutique in West Hollywood, Calif., but ready-to-wear business to concentrate on it closed in 2015 when the lease ran out, costume design and made-to-measure piec- Carlin said. At the same time, from 2002 to retailers with es for private clients, Carlin has introduced 2015, the designer had a ready-to-wear line a new line called Teatro Clothing, which is that was often seen on the runway at Los made in Los Angeles. Angeles Fashion Week. Teatro’s styles include men’s and wom- During his hiatus from ready-to-wear, en’s shirts, pants and Carlin wrote, directed T-shirts featuring idio- and made costumes for syncratic prints, some three films, including with an Asian-inspired “27 Rue de Fleurus,” style. Carlin said that which is about the the line’s prints are in- art-collecting rivalry tended to evoke a sense between 20th-century of theater. “It is not writer Gertrude Stein muted, but it is visu- and her brother Leo. premier ally pleasant,” he said. Carlin hopes to distrib- “People will notice ute his projects on the you. It will showcase a film-festival circuit. performance unique style.” Doing films and Teatro is sold at costuming is a return www.teatroclothing. Octavio Carlin to what brought him fabrics made com with retail prices to Los Angeles from ranging from $60 to his native Mexico City. $250. Carlin moved to Los in the USA The e-boutique also Angeles in 1990 and sells limited-edition took acting classes at jackets and the Octa- UCLA Extension and vio Carlin Capsule, the Lee Strasberg a collection compris- Theatre & Film In- ing high-end women’s stitute in West Holly- eveningwear styles wood. inspired by the 1920s. In his theater proj- Retail price points for ects, Carlin got in- the tops and dresses volved in costume range from $100 to designing and found $500. he had a knack for it. “It’s a change from He started making his the elegance of Oc- ready-to-wear line af- tavio Carlin. It has ter taking classes at the a more loose fit. It’s Fashion Institute of more knits and jer- Design & Merchan- sey. People want to dising in Los Angeles. be more comfortable. Carlin said he re- But it’s still elegant. turned to the ready- You can get married to-wear game because in these clothes,” the it can be as creatively designer said. satisfying as costume Carlin hopes to design and other ven- keep his self-funded tures where a designer return to ready-to- has a lot of leeway. wear a business of “Fashion to me is like limited-edition fash- a drug,” he said. “I can The goal at Antex Knitting Mills is to service the knit ions, which is more never let it go.” fabric needs of the apparel industry with high quality, manageable than run- —Andrew Asch competitively priced fabrics, backed by outstanding customer service and technical expertise.

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6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MAY 10–16, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.octavio.indd 6 5/9/19 5:12 PM FASHION Otis Students Design for Stars, Surrealism and Casual Looks

Graduating seniors and some juniors at Otis College of develop styles that reinvented Ralph Lau- Art and Design worked with top fashion designers and styl- ren favorites. ists on looks displayed at the 37th annual scholarship benefit Swedish stylist B. Åkerlund, who has and fashion show held at the school’s campus on May 4. worked with celebrity Beyoncé Knowles- The show’s theme was “Limitless,” but mentoring design- Carter, advised students on a project in- ers such as Bao Tranchi advised students to scale back their spired by surrealism. Arthur Thammavong fantasies of fashion success and deal with the realities of the and Debbie Sabet of Vince, both Otis alum, fashion business. worked with students on a project inspired “When you are at school, you are practicing at a runway by coastal-casual style. show with models who are perfectly sized,” said Tranchi, Eduardo Castro, a costume designer for who graduated from Otis in 1999. “But the real clients and the ABC fantasy drama series “Once Upon

the people who are spending money are not size 4. They’re JASON LAURIE/BFA.COM a Time,” worked with students on a project size 6 or even 16. So you have to know how to work with Shelley Reid utilizing draping techniques. real bodies.” Otis senior Jamie Lee was the top stu- Tranchi, whose self-named label, Bao Tranchi, includes dent from a group of students given a spe- sexy bodysuits and tight-fitting skirts and dresses, was the a team of people cial award for her work with Castro. She

student adviser for the gowns and eveningwear category, from the Mad- OWEN KOLASINSKI/BFA.COM said that Castro’s graduate project required which were inspired by celebrities such as Jane Fonda and workshop design Jason Wu Arthur Thammavong and Debbie Sabet students to rethink and reshape their de- Michelle Obama. and architecture signs over and again. “[Castro] explained Other designers working with students included Ja- group and members of the costumes and textiles department how we can push ourselves as designers to meet the [proj- son Wu, who gained fame for the gowns he designed for of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. ect’s] direction better,” Lee said. Michelle Obama, who wore them at her husband Barack Another group of students worked on streetwear with At the event, a special honor was given to Shelley Reid, Obama’s presidential inauguration ceremonies. Jennifer Tong, an Otis alumna and design director at Agron who has served as the chair of the annual benefit and fashion Wu mentored students last year and was back for a return Inc., which licenses several Adidas products. show for almost 20 years. The May 4 event coincided with engagement. Wu’s students undertook a project inspired by Another group of mentors were Ralph Lauren designers the 40th anniversary of the Fashion Design Program at Otis looks and uniforms from the 1950s. To help him, he had and included Kim Giangiuli. They worked with students to and the 100th anniversary of the college.—Andrew Asch OWEN KOLASINSKI/BFA.COM B. Åkerlund Class of 2019 Eduardo Castro Adidas/Agron Inc.

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APPARELNEWS.NET MAY 10–16, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

07.otis.indd 7 5/9/19 5:17 PM RETAIL

Rent the Runway Offers ‘Ultimate Dream Closet’ at New San Francisco Flagship

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor It takes dollars to make a difference products including casual pieces, business New York–headquartered Rent the Run- attire, festive clothing, weekend wear and way has arrived in San Francisco, launching accessories. Reserve members will have ac- The California Fashion Association responds to every a flagship to serve the company’s third-larg- cess to fitting rooms available by appoint- issue affecting the apparel and textile industry of Califor- est subscription market. ment for choosing formalwear. Located on the second and third floors The store’s third floor was designed to nia…and is making a major impact on the media, as well of 228 Grant Ave., Rent the Runway is oc- bring together women in a comfortable as city, state and federal officials. cupying 8,300 square feet where custom- space. A coffee bar provides complimen- ers can shop their dream tary refreshments. With closet, according to the a communal fitting room, The California Fashion Association offers access to company. which resembles a posh professional advice and service for every facet of the Complementing its di- dressing room, the try- rect-to-consumer online on area was created to business. If you are involved in domestic manufacturing, business, Rent the Run- support social interaction or off-shore programs, the issues within the industry way’s bricks-and-mortar through a shared-closet affect your growing businesses! retail is based upon experience. Within this the company’s propri- area, women can also uti- etary technology, which lize a beauty bar featuring We welcome your participation in the business-of-doing- allows members more various products. business. autonomy during their Eventually, Rent the shopping experiences. Runway will host events By blending digital where the company will Join us now! tools available through unveil unique program- online shopping with the ming and encourage CFA experience of visiting a members of the commu- physical store, the com- nity to network. Catering 444 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, CA 90071 pany has developed a for- to women, the events will Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 mula embraced by con- highlight members of the Email: [email protected] sumers who want to wear community, recognize designer clothes but don’t Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org want to pay the hefty re- tail cost for these goods. With self-service drop-off and self-service checkout, subscribers are able to complete transac- tions using their RTR Pass on their phones through a “tech-first” approach that is at the core of Rent the Runway’s bricks-and- mortar business. Addi- tionally, customers are able to access their orders through the new pickup Get Inspired! station to eliminate wait- ing in line. Designed by Alda Ly Hundreds of Stocked Architecture and Hilary Novelty Knits, Koyfman, the all-female Wovens, Linings design team behind shared and More! workspace The Wing and Parsley Health, the flag- ship was designed to en- One Roll Minimum. courage social interaction and a community within www.cinergytextiles.com the store. Tel: 213-748-4400 On the store’s second [email protected] floor, unlimited members of Rent the Runway can shop more than 3,000

CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR FINANCE leaders in technology and en- LOUISE DAMBERG DAVID MARTINEZ trepreneurship, create pop-up DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING CREDIT MANAGER TERRY MARTINEZ RITA O’CONNOR opportunities for like-minded SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE brands, and offer a comfortable 741945-2019 AMY VALENCIA PUBLISHED BY space in which to work—or re- Seventy-four years of news, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TLM PUBLISHING INC. fashion and information LYNNE KASCH APPAREL NEWS GROUP lax—during the day. Publishers of: CEO/PUBLISHER BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Launched on May 8, the MOLLY RHODES California Apparel News TERRY MARTINEZ Waterwear store’s opening day included SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST Decorated SERGIO ESPELETA GUILLEN a ribbon cutting by London EXECUTIVE OFFICE EXECUTIVE EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS Breed, the first African-Amer- DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT California Market Center RETAIL EDITOR CHRIS MARTIN 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 ican woman in San Francisco’s ANDREW ASCH RACHEL MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 history to occupy the mayor’s (213) 627-3737 ASSOCIATE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY Fax (213) 623-5707 office and the second female DOROTHY CROUCH Classified Advertising Fax leader to be elected since U.S. CONTRIBUTORS CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE (213) 623-1515 ALYSON BENDER JEFFERY YOUNGER www.apparelnews.net Senator Dianne Feinstein’s elec- VOLKER CORELL PROFESSIONAL SERVICES [email protected] JOHN ECKMIER & RESOURCE SECTION tion as mayor in 1978. JOHN McCURRY JUNE ESPINO Founded by Jennifer Hyman ESTEVAN RAMOS PRODUCTION MANAGER PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. TIM REGAS KENDALL IN and Jennifer Fleiss in 2009, Rent N. JAYNE SEWARD HOPE WINSBOROUGH EDITORIAL DESIGNER the Runway now includes more NATALIE ZFAT JOHN FREEMAN FISH than 550 designer partners, 11 WEB PRODUCTION MORGAN WESSLER million community members and five retail locations.

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MAY 10–16, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

08-news.indd 8 5/9/19 5:19 PM EVENTS CFF Recognizes Fresh Design Talent at Annual Scholarship Luncheon

2019 CFF Scholarship Awards Luncheon Melissa Marsella of Otis College of Art and Design

The California Fashion Foundation held its 2019 Schol- that the current climate in fashion is excellent for up-and- Pomona by MGT Industries arship Luncheon at the California Market Center to hand coming designers. • Dorian Weldon-Obando of Fullerton College by Naked out awards to a number of California fashion students. As After lunch, which was provided by Brian Weitman of Cashmere the philanthropic arm of the California Fashion Associa- STC-QST Textiles and New Moon restaurant, CFF an- • Staphany Robles of Mt. San Antonio College by STC-QST tion, CFF has been honoring student designers for 16 years. nounced the recipients of its Fashion Star Awards in five • Myriam Louati of Los Angeles Trade-Technical Col- In addition to CFA President Ilse Metchek, speakers at categories: design, brand development, outstanding presen- lege by Swat Fame the May 2 event included Nick Verreos, co-chair of fashion tation, technology and environmental awareness. • Sarah Moratto of Santa Monica College by Velvet Heart Brand Development Awards were bestowed on: • Olga Vakhteeva of Pasadena City College by CIT Commercial Services • Jonathan Yu of California State University, Long Beach, by Cohn Handler Sturm, LLP • Dorian Weldon-Obando of Fullerton College by Greenberg Glusker, LLP • Rebecca Annella of Long Beach City College by MAGIC • Zhichao Huang of the Academy of Art Univer- sity, San Francisco by Moss Adams, LLP • Tzu-Ting Huang of California State Polytechnic University, Pomona by Fineman West & Com- pany, LLP For their work that garnered Outstanding Pre- sentation accolades, Masumi-Stephens was rec- ognized by the California Apparel News, Robles Tina Masumi-Stephens of Woodbury University Tzu-Ting Huang of California Polytechnic Valarie Chiu of the Fashion Institute of Design received an award from the California Market with visiting Assistant Professor of Fashion State University, Pomona & Merchandising Center, and Chiuwas honored by the Cooper De- Design Wayne Kastning sign Space. design at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandis- Recipients of the Design Awards included: Student designers recognized with Environmental Aware- ing, who advised students regarding “The Road Ahead.” Of- • Olga Vakhteeva of Pasadena City College by Design Knit ness awards were Moratto, who received an award from the fering wisdom acquired during his nearly 30-year career in • Tina Masumi-Stephens of Woodbury University by De- Rags For Riches Foundation, and Marsella, whose award the Southern California fashion industry, Verreos revealed sign Knit was given by the Ben & Joyce Eisenberg Foundation. his “10 threads of advice” to work toward success in the • Rebecca Annella of Long Beach City College by Fifteen/ With greater advancements regarding how the fashion apparel business, which included seizing opportunities and Twenty industry implements automation and digitization tools, the overcoming fear of the unknown to gladly accept every task • Valarie Chiu of FIDM by Karen Kane Technology Awards were given to Zhichao Huang by Tuka- and assignment. • Melissa Marsella of Otis College of Art and Design by tech, and Staphany Robles and Tzu-Ting Huang, who were Speaking from her own experiences navigating the fash- KWDZ Manufacturing recognized by AIMS 360. ion industry, Marta Miller, owner of Lefty Production Co., • Jonathan Yu of California State University, Long Beach by Honoring the late textile designer Betty L. Baumgardner, discussed “Opportunity for Design Entrepreneurs.” With the Lefty Production Co. the Betty L. Baumgardner Award for Best Use of Textiles ease of creating a direct-to-consumer business, she noted • Tzu-Ting Huang of California State Polytechnic University, was presented to Louati.—Dorothy Crouch Textiles and Trim Resources Products and Services: Antex Knitting Mills, a privately owned verti- companies develop and showcase their brand identity. From logo 3A Products of America cal knitting, dyeing, and printing company in Los Angeles, announces labels and hangtags to care/content labels and price tickets, we 1006 S. San Pedro St. capability of providing full-package garments produced in California Functional Fabric Fair will develop, produce, and distribute your trim items worldwide. We Los Angeles, CA 90015 or Central America to meet your varied needs. Antex’s product line www.FunctionalFabricFair.com specialize in producing custom products that will meet your design (213) 749-0103 includes Antex Premier Performance, a line of high-performance, [email protected] and merchandising needs. We successfully launched production of www.us3a.com technical fabrics with moisture management, anti-microbial, stain Products and Services: FUNCTIONAL FABRIC FAIR, powered by RFID price tickets last year. This demand is being greatly driven by Contact: Wayne Jung resistant, or UV finishes; and Matchmaster Prints by Antex California, PERFORMANCE DAYS®, is launching a West Coast event—tak- the big retailers such as Macy’s and Target. Our growth and market Products and Services: 3A Products of America is a symbol of qual- offering design and development of custom prints. Please contact ing place October 22-23, 2019 at the Oregon Convention Center in dynamics have resulted in opening up a production center in Tijuana, ity, serving you since 1975. Send your samples to us. We will help [email protected]. Portland. This sourcing event features products and technologies to Mexico. We have also added advanced die cutter technology in our Los you save money. Custom orders to meet your needs: snaps, knitted kick off the winter 2021 season presented by textile manufacturers, Angeles production center to streamline our production efforts and to elastic, zippers, webbing, buckles, and buttons with your logo. We offer suppliers, and service providers all within a zero-waste exhibition. strengthen our packaging capabilities. A very important part of our threads, labels, accessories, interlining, display equipment, fabric and Cinergy Textiles Inc. Open free of charge to industry professionals, the Fair includes curated business is FLASHTRAK, our online ordering system for price tickets, product sourcing, website design, printing, and promotional items. Fast 1422 Griffith Ave. exhibits, industry presentations, professional networking, and match- custom products and care labels. Our mission is to deliver high-quality services are our first priority. Los Angeles, CA 90021 making programs. The event follows the New York edition occurring products at competitive prices, wherever they are needed for produc- (213) 748-4400 July 22-23, 2019 at the Javits Center during New York Market Week. tion. We understand the rush nature of this industry and strive to meet Fax: (213) 748-3400 Contact organizers at [email protected]. Visit www. the tight deadlines facing our customers. Antex Knitting Mills www.cinergytextiles.com FunctionalFabricFair.com for more information. [email protected] div. of Matchmaster Products and Services: For over 25 years, Cinergy Textiles has been specializing in stock and order-based programs consisting of Progressive Label Inc. Dyeing & Finishing Inc. hundreds of solid and novelty knits, wovens, and linings. Our product 2545 Yates Ave. 3750 S. Broadway Place line provides piece goods for all apparel markets, including children’s, Commerce, CA 90040 Los Angeles, CA 90007 juniors, contemporary, activewear, uniforms, and special occasions. (323) 415-9770 This listing is provided as a free service to our (323) 232-2061 Our fabrics are imported from Asia and stocked in Los Angeles. We Fax: (323) 415-9771 advertisers. We regret that we cannot be responsible Fax: (323) 233-7751 have a one-roll stock minimum. Orders are generally processed on the [email protected] for any errors or omissions within the Textiles and Trim [email protected] same day and ship out within one or two business days, depending www.progressivelabel.com Resources. Contact: Bill or Anna Tenenblatt on the size of the order and availability of the particular style ordered. Products and Services: Progressive Label is dedicated to helping

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09.CFA.indd 9 5/9/19 5:21 PM CLASSIFIEDS

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10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MAY 10–16, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

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THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR TRADE SHOW REPORT 74 YEARS Small Apparel Boutiques THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Even as Trends Shift, FINANCE Stay in the Game With LA Majors Market Activewear and Athleisure THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Late Tax Refunds Hands-On Owners Makes Some Changes Remain Relevant to Fashion Affect Retailers Counting By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor By Andrew Asch Retail Editor By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor , which caters to ju- on a Shopping Boost The secret sauce for store owners to be successful is often LA Majors Market California As utilitarian looks and retro-style streetwear gain momen- This season, the very simple—all they have to do is be on-site to give a sense tum, some in the fashion industry are declaring the end of ac- By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor of personality to the outpost and provide personalized service niors fashions and, underwent department-store a few changes. buyers at the tivewear and athleisure. Looking back through activewear’s , a Market Center history, from the bodysuit–and–leg warmer days of the 1980s The U.S. economy is expected to cruise along at a moder- to make clients feel special. Fashion Link Part of the front lobby was turned into a cozy living-room to the baggy basketball shorts of the 1990s and the track suits ate speed this year after whizzing past the speed limit last “When the owner is present, it makes a difference for their year. sales,” said Peter Jacobson, president of space surrounded by wooden walls and faux greenery to give it of the early 2000s, it’s clear that activewear doesn’t leave fash- a lived-in look. A coffee bar was open and free boxed lunches ion—it simply evolves over time. One major change this year are income taxes and whether distributor of European, the luxury company’s women’s sales fashion branch, brands, headquar- and . He has noticed that were served to buyers who could enjoy their food at high tables Examining the evolution of activewear andAdidas its athleisure, who re- people are paying more or less under the Trump adminis- Creative Concepts The New Mart tration’s revised tax code, implemented under the Tax Code tered in Los Angeles’ with stools. sibling, it is apparent that this category of apparel has become Re- There was also a handful of buyer lounges where electronic and Jobs Act of 2017. This bill eliminated personal exemp- as businesses expand and store owners aren’t on-site, sales a mainstay of fashion. Just ask Beyoncé and devices could be recharged, and there were private buyer meet- cently announced they were partnering to relaunch Knowles- tions and certain itemized deductions but doubled the stan- decline. Ivy Park brand of athleisure apparel. dard deduction and adjusted tax brackets. State and local tax Paula Rosenblum, managing in Miami, partner grew upand watching co-founder her offather ing areas to make doing business more intimate and convenient. Carter’s For this edition of LA Majors Market, which ran April 1–3, deductions were capped at $10,000 a year. tail Systems Research This is the first year the full effect of the revision is be- Sam’s, the family’s apparel store, on New York’s Long all temporary showrooms were concentrated on the 13th floor manage Trend-to-lifestyle transition ing felt by individuals, who were wondering whether they Island. “When something new comes in, you can let yourpage cus- 3 to make it easier for buyers to connect with vendors. CMC of- ➥ Retailers For the latter half of 2019, forecasters note that fashions are would be receiving a bigger refund or paying more in taxes tomer know, even if it’s just with a postcard or an email.” ficials said there were 101 vendors exhibiting➥ LA in Majors the temporary page 9 ➥ Athleisure page 3 Tax Policy Center pre- space, which was about even with last year’s show. Vendors comfortable but stylish in a fun way. Many of the characteristics than before. So far, the results are mixed. The dicted that 82 percent of➥ middle-class Quarterly Economic workers (describedReport page as 3 A Squad of Female INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE Byer California Cited for Executives Takes Over Evading Customs Duties by Aloha Brand Reyn How Apparel Companies Undervaluing Garments at Manhattan Beachwear has agreed to Spooner Charts New Can Deal With a Slowing By Deborah Belgum Executive EditorByer California By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor After years of litigation, Waters in Los Angeles Inside the two-story industrial office building that houses Economy pay $325,000 in a civil fraud lawsuit that alleges the de- Manhattan Beachwear operations in Cypress, Cal- cades-old San Francisco clothing company for five years the vast By Andrew Asch Retail Editor brand aimed to http://www.apparelnews.net/classifieds/print-preview/828/if., a mini revolution is going on. By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor 1/1 undervalued the cost of its merchandise coming through Reyn Spooner In the last few months, the executive suites of one of the customs, paying lower duties than normal. The formula for doing business is slowly changing this year. The case came to light when a whistle-blower, identi-Queen Since the late 1950s, the largest swimwear manufacturers in the United States have While interest rates were rising at a steady pace last year, it’s fied as Michael Krigstein, told federal officials that Byer be an Aloha shirt that defied stereotypes. been occupied by a phalanx of female managers and direc- It wasn’t entirely about luaus and bonfires at the beach. tors who are running the swimwear company after it was a different story this year. The Federal Reserve hasn’t raised California reportedly on had a DDP, been or receiving delivered goods duty-paid from basis, benchmark interest rates in 2019 and may even lower them, Apparel NY Inc. Rather, it was the Aloha shirt of the downtown Honolulu helmed for years by men. businessman. Reyn Spooner represented a sense of ease and In the top spot is Lindsay Shumlas, who became the com- which is good news for apparel manufacturers and retailers. meaning that Queen Apparel took care of filing the customs Meanwhile, the U.S. economy is expected to cool off this sophistication. pany’s chief executive officer last September after holding forms and delivering the goods to Byer California. But federal prosecutors maintained in a lawsuit filed The brand’s Hawaii-based artists made prints of the is- the dual positions of chief financial officer and chief operat- year and in 2020 as economies around the world slow down Max- and a trade dispute with China is still in the works. in the Southern District of New York that Byer knew that lands’ unique plants and ocean scenes, which were repro- ing officer. The Bikini Lab, duced on Spooner cloth, a reverse-print fabric that gave the The company has moreLa than Blanca a dozen, labels, which in- With this scenario, we asked financial experts this ques- Queen Apparel was undervaluing Byer’s garments in cus- as well as licensed , tion: With U.S. interest rates remaining stable amidst a slowing toms forms submitted between 2009 and 2013 to Customs shirt a unique, gently faded look. clude proprietary labels and 24th & Ocean , Nanette Lepore For decades, Reyn Spooner cultivated the reputation as ine of Hollywood economy, what financial advice do you have for apparel manu- and Border Patrol inspectors but Byer continued to do busi- Lauren Ralph Lauren ➥ Byer page 3 the go-to company for the AlohaNordstrom shirt. ,It and, was until sold recently, at the it labels including ➥ Manhattan Beachwear page 8 facturers when it comes to borrowing money➥ and Finance planning page for3 ness with Queen anyway. the future? “Byer chose to continue sending work orders to Queen high-end department store made uniform shirts for Trader Joe’s➥ employees. Reyn Spooner page 6 Reyn Spooner shirts have also appeared in the film “The

: SM INSIDE 6 : SM : SM Where fashion gets down to business INSIDE INSIDE Where fashion gets down to business Where fashion gets down to business INSIDE: SM Where fashion gets down to business

Consort 62 4 2 6 8 WILD ABOUT COLOR 3 2 9 Animal prints and bright neons were all over the runway at the 3 Rent the Runway sued ... p. 2 Levi Strauss Earnings … p. 2 Volcom IP acquired ... p. 2 Artisan Cloth talks denim ... p. 3 Directives West trend show for buyers, held April 1 at the California Mossimo money-laundering charges … p. 2 LOS ANGELES FASHION WEEK Charlotte Russe brand sold ... p. 2 FASHION FORWARD New name for ISS ... p. 2 Fred Segal acquired ... p. 9 Market Center. For more looks from the show, see page 7. Omnichain … p. 9 Barbara Fields trend forecast ... p. 8 Graduating students at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising CALA Las Vegas set to debut ... p. 2 Education Resources ... p. 9 Performance/Active/Athleisure and FESTIVAL FASHION MAGIC plans unveiled ... p. 4 Finance and Made in Ameerica resources ... p. 9 T-Shirt resources ... p. 9 showed off their creations at the annual student fashion show. Époque Évolution ... p. 7 FALL COLLECTIONS ON THE RUNWAY www.apparelnews.net For more looks, see page 7. Resource Guide ... p. 9 www.apparelnews.net www.apparelnews.net The runways were full for Los Angeles Fashion Week with styles being seen in two locations www.apparelnews.net this season. For more from L.A. Fashion Week and Art Hearts Fashion, see page 6. REGAS TIM Derek Heart—Leopard-Print Sweater Fashion and parties are an integral part of the Coachella Festival, where the Vibrant Miu—Neon-Green Skinny Jean 3/28/19 6:37 PM Anna Reinherz Southern California desert becomes inundated with music fans and partygoers.

ARUN NEVADER/GETTY IMAGES NEVADER/GETTY ARUN 4/4/19 6:35 PM 4/11/19 6:19 PM

ANTHONY MITCHELL ANTHONY ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES BERLINER/AB J. ALEX For more fashionable looks from the party scenes, see page 8.

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01,3,6.cover.indd 1 May 17 May 24 May 31 June 7 Cover: Fashion Cover: Fashion Cover: Fashion Cover: Fashion Denim Technology New Resources Retail Freight & Logistics Sustainability Technology What’s Checking Trends Trade Show Special Section Education in Focus Fashion Resources Finance Advertorial Denim Advertorial Salute to Suppliers & Services Bonus Distribution Fashion District Advertorial Sustainability Advertorial AccessoriesTheShow 6/9–11 Bonus Distribution FAME 6/9–11 Bonus Distribution Apparel Textile Sourcing Miami 5/28–30 Technology Advertorial MODA 6/9–11 Designers & Agents LA 6/17–19 [Pre] Coterie 6/9–11 L.A. Market Week 6/17–19 Kingpins NY 6/12–13 Outdoor Retailer 6/18–20 Bonus Distribution Atlanta Apparel 6/12–15 Fashion Market Northern California 6/23–25 Denver Apparel & Accessory Market 6/2–3 Coast Miami 6/3–4 Dallas Market Week 6/5–8 Kingpins NY 6/12–13

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