Genghis Karl
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JOSIE NATORI: 30 YEARS IN INNERWEAR/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 22, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Genghis Karl By Miles Socha BEIJING — Taking luxury — and event marketing — to an audacious new summit, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld on Friday staged a sunset fashion show atop the Great Wall of China, capped off with giant double-F logos projected onto neighboring mountains. “I think it’s the first fashion show visible from the moon,” Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, joked a few hours before 500 guests climbed steep stone steps to witness Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini- Fendi stroll down the 2,000-year-old structure to a rousing ovation. “It’s a big sign that China is the place where things are happening today.” See Fendi, Page 6 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2007 WWD.COM New Artistic Directors at Cacharel By Robert Murphy WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear PARIS — Cacharel, known for its spirited contem- porary sportswear, has replaced one London de- signer couple with another. GENERAL After a seven-year collaboration with Suzanne Taking luxury and event marketing to a new summit, Fendi on Friday Clements and Inacio Ribeiro, which ended in 1 staged a sunset fashion show atop the Great Wall of China. June, the house has hired Mark Eley and Wakako Cacharel has hired Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto as artistic direc- Kishimoto as its new artistic directors. tors, replacing Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro. The couple, who design the Eley Kishimoto 2 line, will begin at the house immediately, with a EYE: The biannual, fashion-meets-music extravaganza in aid of The fi rst collection scheduled for fall 2008. 4 Prince’s Trust pulled a horde of celebrities to the Royal Albert Hall. “We’re extremely excited,” said Eley, 39, Friday. FASHION: As the sun set on Los Angeles Fashion Week, high-minded “We are naturally drawn to the brand.” eco-fashion statements shared the stage with Cali party-girl staples. In many ways, the house’s newest collaboration 6 is in the spirit of its last one. Like Clements and Ribeiro, Eley and Kishimoto, who is 42, are based Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................18-19 in London and known for their funky, colorful de- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. signs. But Eley said he and his partner, who will [email protected], using the individual’s name. now also work in Paris, hope to cleave closer to Cacharel’s roots. Jean Bousquet, who founded the WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. house in 1962, made the brand synonymous with VOLUME 194, NO. 85. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one easy, energetic print-driven collections. Wakako Kishimoto and Mark Eley additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and “Eley and Kishimoto are perfect for us,” said three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Philippe Cardon, Cacharel’s new chief executive Bousquet’s continued commitment to grow the Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive offi cer, who arrived just a few weeks ago. “They house. He initially revved things up when he Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human have the house’s spirit in their blood.” hired Clements and Ribeiro, whose fi rst collec- Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return Indeed, Eley and Kishimoto are best known tions for the company generated excitement. undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: for their print designs and fabric development, But more recently, the collections lost much SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA talents they have lent over the years to the likes of their initial pep while at the same time the 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit of Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs for Louis house had trouble fi nding the right marketing www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Vuitton. They launched their fashion label in the and pricing strategy. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production mid-Nineties and continue to show in London. At Earlier this fall, Bousquet inked a licensing correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other present, they have partnerships with Mitsui for a deal with B2X, the Jersey City trading company, Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list line of licensed products in Japan, and they also to exclusively distribute Cacharel’s women’s, available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. work with Ratti, the Italian textile company, on men’s and children’s apparel and accessories in If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, textile design. the United States and Canada. The house has had OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, “We have a lot of sympathy for Cacharel,” trouble generating longstanding success in those BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED said Kishimoto. “We want it to be fresh and go markets in the past. MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR back to its roots. It should be joyful, but not Meanwhile, Bousquet has bolstered the brand CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY overly fl amboyant.” at home. He opened two new women’s stores in A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. “Our own collections are more aggressive and Paris recently and last week he opened a new confrontational than what we believe Cacharel men’s store, called La Chemiserie. He said he should be,” added Eley. “We think Cacharel should hoped to open another 20 men’s stores in France MONDAY: New York Summer-Transition Apparel have a sophisticated French spirit, but be entirely over the next few years. Market (through Nov. 2). approachable and young.” Cacharel had revenues last year of around L’Oréal Spring Fashion Week, Toronto (through Eley said it has yet to be determined whether $50 million. Saturday). he and Kishimoto will show their Cacharel col- Eley and Kishimoto replace Esther Angula, lections on the runway or in a showroom presen- who briefly served as artistic director after TUESDAY: Coach Inc. reports first-quarter sales and tation. In any case, their arrival seems to signal Clements and Ribeiro left in June. earnings. WEDNESDAY: Filo, Milan (through Thursday). THURSDAY: Columbia Sportswear, Hanesbrands Inc. and Kenneth Cole Productions report third-quarter Brooks Bros. Taps Hamilton sales and earnings. The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and Unifi Inc. report fi rst-quarter sales and earnings. By David Moin Collection for resort locations, Thom Browne’s exclusive Black Fleece collection, and strategic rooks Brothers has a second-in-command to planning for international growth. FRIDAY: Designers & Agents, Los Angeles (through help the upscale chain grow and sustain its As president and chief operating offi cer, she Sunday). B Brighte Cos., Los Angeles (through Oct. 29). tradition. Diane Hamilton has joined the chain is responsible for the operations of stores and COMING THIS WEEK in the newly created position of outlets, as well as fi nance, in- Los Angeles Spring Apparel Market (through Oct. 30). president and chief operating formation technology, human officer, reporting to Claudio Del resources and supply chain Vecchio, chairman and chief ex- functions, including product de- ecutive officer. velopment, sourcing, planning, Hamilton was a consultant allocation and logistics. Hence, In Brief for the last 15 years and, before she’s still involved in many of the that, a retail executive. Most of same areas she was tackling as a ● BRAG HONOREES: Paying homage to high achievers in the the time, retailers-turned-con- consultant. “I’m helping Claudio beauty business, the Black Retail Action Group Inc., known as sultants remain consultants, and to execute his vision and realize BRAG, will honor supermodel Naomi Campbell; John Demsey, even Hamilton admitted she’s the wonderful opportunities for group president of Estée Lauder, and Joe L. Dudley, president somewhat surprised to once this brand,” Hamilton said. and ceo of Dudley Products Inc., at its 37th Annual Scholarship again be among the retail ranks Most recently, Hamilton and Awards Dinner at Cipriani Wall Street on Friday.