NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS
$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 25 JUNE 21–27, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS
TRADE SHOW REPORT June L.A. Market Sees Serious Buyers Placing Orders, Many for Immediates
By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor Organized to showcase Fall II and Holiday, L.A. Market Week saw local retailers and those who headed to Los Ange- les from out of state to see their trusted showroom partners. Many buyers wanted to enjoy the intimate atmosphere of working with representatives they know. Amid its renovations, the California Market Center continued to promote a new look and atmosphere. At Label Array, which took place on the center’s 13th floor of the B building, buyers found pieces that would set apart their busi- nesses from the competition. ➥ L.A. Market page 3 New Brand Is the Next Chapter for Lubov Azria By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor For more than 25 years, Lubov Azria was the creative force behind the well-known California contemporary label BCBGMaxAzria. Her imprint was on everything from sweaters and blouses to cocktail dresses and work attire in a collection that had a unique concept of offering affordable contemporary clothes to a vast market of style-hungry consumers. But, in 2017, with the company declaring bankruptcy, Azria left, following her husband, Max Azria, who in 1989 founded the company that expanded into 20 brands and a retail empire of more than 550 stores. After leaving the company, Lubov Azria said she had a lot of time on her hands and spent months reexamining her career and what she wanted in life. “I just decided to find the beauty within. I took time to read every book I was going to ➥ Lubov Azria page 8
INSIDE: ASIAN BOHO Where fashion gets down to business SM
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May retail sales ... p. 2 ANNA JOHNS Emily Herz Three Dots acquired ... p. 2 Bigger Dallas Market Center show ... p. 2 The fashion students at Santa Monica College showcased an eclectic mix of Sarah Parker designs Most High T-shirt line ... p. 9 styles that was heavy on recycled denim. For more looks, see page 6. www.apparelnews.net
01.3-4,8-9.cover.indd 1 6/20/19 4:54 PM RETAIL SALES May Sales Show Solid Growth Over Last Year Retail sales across the country in May ongoing support for spending,” said Jack non-store sales in May increased 11.4 per- cused mall retailer The Buckle, Inc. noted were up over last year, but several big appar- Kleinhenz, chief economist at the NRF, cent over last May. General-merchandise that its May same-store sales dipped 0.8 per- el chains saw a slight dip in same-store sales. based in Washington, D.C. “Households, stores, a category that includes department cent over last year. The retailer’s net sales in The National Retail Federation reported in the aggregate, are in solid financial con- stores, reported sales were up 4.4 percent in May declined 1.1 percent to $61.5 million that May sales inched up 3.2 percent over the dition, but an escalation in trade tariffs will a year-over-year comparison. compared to May 2018. same period last year and grew 0.5 percent undoubtedly create a considerable downdraft Sales at clothing and clothing accessory Value retailer Cato Corp. announced a from April. to confidence and spending or lead to a pull- stores declined 2.4 percent over last May. 1 percent increase in its same-store sales in “The strong job market, recent income back in spending.” Retailers that continue to report monthly May, but net sales in that month slipped 2 gains and elevated confidence translate into Broken down by category, online and sales had mixed results for May. Denim-fo- percent to $76.1 million.—Andrew Asch
NEWS Three Dots Acquired by Los Angeles Manufacturer Three Dots, the Southern California brand Three Dots, headquartered in Garden The company had been looking for a several other areas including sportswear, of women’s contemporary knit tops and other Grove, Calif., was launched in 1995 by Sha- buyer for some time, sources said, but a outerwear, swimwear and sports equipment. apparel that abruptly closed its doors in April, ron Lebon and for many years was a well- cash-crunch problem prompted it to close “Three Dots is effortless fashion that ca- has been acquired by FAM Brands. received label carried at such high-end retail- its doors on April 18, right before the Easter ters to all age categories and is known for its Los Angeles–based FAM Brands has as- ers as Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. weekend. perfect fit, fastidious construction, top qual- sumed design and manufacturing of the label It started out as a company bent on creat- FAM Brands, whose labels include sever- ity, inspired design and great fabrics,” said while hiring key players from the Three Dots ing the perfect T-shirt, offering three styles, al activewear brands such as Marika, Zob- Zarabi, chief executive of FAM Brands. “We staff, the company said in a press release. three sizes and 12 colors. Later, the label ex- ha, Balance Collection and Aerodynamics, look forward to resuming production as soon Terms of the deal announced June 19 were panded into pants, dresses and skirts as well was founded in 1985 by Frank Zarabi. The as possible and working hard to further grow not disclosed. as a selection of styles for men. company has expanded from activewear into the Three Dots brand.”—Deborah Belgum Dallas Market Center to Launch Total Lifestyle Market Starting June 2020 To accommodate the changing retail Lighting Show and KidsWorld will start on through access to more new products, unique more buyers drives every strategic deci- landscape, the Dallas Market Center will June 24. items and trend intelligence,” said Cindy sion—including the redevelopment of the transform its summer markets into a total- Currently held in August, the new dates Morris, president and chief executive officer [Interior Home + Design Center] building, lifestyle marketplace. allow the apparel market to coincide with of the Dallas Market Center. “By combining launching Dallas Design Week, hiring new Beginning in June 2020, the Apparel events that serve other categories. events into a Total Lifestyle Market, we are executives, enhancing marketplace technol- & Accessories Market will be held June “Retail is undergoing dramatic changes, creating a must-visit destination and an ener- ogy, debuting special exhibitions like Brand 23–26, while the Total Home & Gift Mar- and we are advancing the market experi- getic show that will be greater than the sum Assembly, and engaging new marketing ket, Lightovation—Dallas International ence in order to help our customers succeed of its parts.” programs,” Morris said. By establishing a common event sched- The news regarding this lifestyle event ule, the Dallas Market Center said it will of- was released as construction continues on fer more choices to retailers examining the the 250,000-square-foot adaptive trade-show best-business formulas to remain competi- space on the DMC campus’s World Trade tive. Combining the shows will bring togeth- Center’s 11th floor, which will feature tem- er exhibitors offering products in categories porary gift exhibits during the June 2020 such as gift, home décor, lighting, holiday, show. floral, housewares, gourmet, apparel and ac- Temporary exhibits for apparel and acces- cessories, and artisanal goods. sories will be found on the building’s 12th IT “Maximizing opportunities to deliver and 13th floors.—Dorothy Crouch Organization Urges Trump La Lame, Exclusive supplier of stretch fabrics Administration to Include Apparel presents and Made-Up Textiles in Next An Innovative New Collection of Knitted & Woven Fabrics and Trims. Made in USA, Europe and Asia Round of Chinese Tariffs As the trade war between the United apparel, home furnishings and made-up tex- States and China intensifies, members of the tiles, which make up 93.5 percent of U.S. Stretch & Rigid Allovers and National Council of Textile Organizations imports from China in the textile and appar- Narrow Laces, PVC Leather, have been urging the Trump administration el sector while fiber, yarn and fabric imports Spacers Power Mesh, Microiber to include apparel and certain textile items from China represent only 6.5 percent. Kits, Metallic Tulle and Laces, in the next round of tariffs. “If the United States truly wants to re- Currently, apparel, home furnishings and solve China’s rampant IPR abuse, pillar sec- Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossing, made-up textiles are not part of the $200 bil- tors of the Chinese economy will need to be Burnout Prints on Mesh, Tricot lion in Chinese goods subject to a 25 per- included,” Glas said at a U.S. Trade Repre- and Velvets, Novelty Elastic cent tariff that increased from 10 percent on sentative hearing. “Leaving sectors that are Trim: Metallic, Sheer Ruffles, imports entering the United States after June highly sensitive within China’s economy off 15. the list has actually weakened U.S. leverage Lae, Prints and Rhinestones Now, the office of the U.S. Trade Repre- throughout the negotiating process, delaying Sustainable Options sentative, Robert Lighthizer, is considering a a long overdue remedy to this systemic trade new round of tariffs, called Tranche 4, which problem.” Available would impose tariffs on an additional $325 However, Glas urged the administration billion in Chinese goods covering just about not to put tariffs on imports removed from everything imported from China. the previous retaliatory tariff lists. These in- Kim Glas, the president and chief execu- puts include certain machinery, dyes, chemi- La Lame, Inc. tive of the National Council of Textile Or- cals and textile components not available 215 W. 40th Street 5th Floor, New York, NY 10018 ganizations, testified on June 20 in Wash- domestically, such as rayon staple fiber. Tel: 212-921-9770 Fax: 212-921-8167 ington, D.C., that the United States should “Adding tariffs on imports of manufactur- slap tariffs on more products to crack down ing inputs that are not made in the U.S. in Please Contact [email protected] on China’s abuse of intellectual-property effect raises the cost for American compa- www.lalame.com rights. nies and makes them less competitive with She called for tariffs to be imposed on China,” she said.—D.B.
2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JUNE 21–27, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET
02.news.indd 2 6/20/19 5:24 PM RETAIL Retailers Take On the Fight Against Organized Crime By Andrew Asch Retail Editor steal consumers’ credit-card numbers. Criminals then sell But Pescatore said that smaller retailers can fend off a lot the stolen data to other criminals, or they use the credit-card of attacks by taking basic steps to protect their digital pres- Robberies, employee theft and organized retail crime cre- numbers to establish fraudulent credit-card accounts. ences from being hacked. “It’s basic security hygiene. It’s ate billions of dollars in losses for stores every year, so com- They also use the stolen information to purchase gift just a part of doing business,” he said. panies are increasingly concerned about cybercrime. cards, which can be hard for law enforcement to trace, said A lot of basic measures are described on a website run by Anxiety about cybercrime was one of the chief findings of John Pescatore, director of emerging security trends at the the nonprofit Center for Internet Security, detailed at www. a recently released survey from the National Retail Federa- SANS Institute, a research and education organization in cisecurity.org, Pescatore said. tion and the University of Florida, said Bob Moraca, the the Washington, D.C., area that provides training to cyber- Retail is not the only field targeted by cybercriminals. NRF’s vice president for loss prevention. security workers. Communications and technology company Verizon pub- Cybercrime also was a hot topic at NRF Protect, a conven- Cybercrime can take on enormous proportions. A cy- lishes an annual Data Breach Investigations Report. Its 2019 tion devoted to loss prevention and cyber risk, held June 11–13 bercrime caper made global headlines at the end of 2013 report found that public-sector organizations, which include at the Anaheim Convention Center in Anaheim, Calif. when Target Corp. announced that the credit- and debit- public-education entities and law enforcement, are a big fo- “As criminals find new ways to steal, loss-prevention card information of about 40 million customers had been cus for hackers. teams are finding new ways stolen. The report analyzed 41,686 security incidents from to stop them,” Moraca said. The breach was trau- 86 countries and confirmed that 2,013 of those were data “Increasingly, this is a battle matic for the mass retailer. breaches. The sector reporting the largest amount of security focused on technology.” It resulted in the resigna- incidents was public-sector organizations, with 23,399 inci- An increasing awareness tion several months later of dents. Total security incidents reported by retailers were 234. of cybercrime and fraud Gregg Steinhafel, Target’s comes with the rise of om- chief executive officer. In Organized crime prevails ni-channel retail, which fo- 2017, Target had to pay an cuses on digital sales. The $18.5 million settlement Nevertheless, organized retail crime continues to be a NRF/University of Florida after a lawsuit was filed by major threat to retailers, according to the NRF/University of survey asked loss-preven- 47 states and the District of Florida survey, making up two-thirds of retail losses. tion executives the source of Columbia. Organized retail crime is defined as burglaries commit- the largest increase in fraud ted by professional thieves, often ordered by a crime boss, against retailers. Hitting easier prey targeting bricks-and-mortar stores. While 43 percent of Organized-retail-crime gangs can steal hundreds of thou- those surveyed said the larg- Since then, major re- sands of dollars of goods. At the recent NRF Protect conven- On the floor of the NRF Protect show est increase in fraud against tailers have gotten wise to tion, John Willis, a Homeland Security Department special retailers is taking place in cybercrime and are much agent, was honored for his work in a decade-long investiga- bricks-and-mortar stores, 52 percent said it is happening in more vigilant in protecting their data, so information breech- tion that brought a San Diego–based organized-retail-crime various channels using digital commerce, such as e-com- es at big retailers have declined, Pescatore said. group to justice. merce and omni-channel retail. “Attackers go for the easiest targets,” he noted. “They’re The investigation recovered $500,000 in merchandise Data breaches are also considered a typical cybercrime. going after the smaller retailers.” Smaller retailers often do stolen from more than 50 retailers. Willis’s investigation re- Cyber criminals hack into retailers’ computer systems and not have the deep pockets to spend on cyber-security teams. sulted in the 2017 arrests and convictions of 15 people.
L.A. Market Continued from page 1 ers who traveled from Cali- some Spring 2020 to ac- fornia cities such as Palm commodate her clientele of For Tam Edwards, owner of Arie Nicole in Valdosta, Ga., Springs but also from New women between the ages Label Array was a resource for trendy neon hues as well as York, Texas and Illinois. of 20 and 30. Her strategy gold and bright colors to bring a bit of West Coast style to She was fielding orders for is to do enough business in her shop. her accessories, novelties Los Angeles to avoid larger, “The goal is to look at new items that are not typically and apparel lines, such as busier trade shows. offered in our area,” she said. “We’re shopping for Fall and the recently launched La “I don’t like to go to Las some Immediates in bright colors, but I think people should Formé denim line. Vegas. It’s too far and too be open to everything the CMC has to offer—and definitely “During this market, much—I like to break it make the seminars. They offer great points for building a we’ve had almost all Imme- down,” she said. “I go to my small business.” diates and a few orders for reps in the Cooper Design At the booth for made-in-Los Angeles sustainable brand September transition,” she Space and The New Mart.” Reck-less, owner Kertu Palo saw buyers from Japan who said. “They want pops of At the Arlene Henry were looking for a unique approach to apparel manufactur- color and something wom- Sales showroom located on ing by checking out her women’s shirtdresses and jumpsuits. en can wear all day.” the 12th floor of The New “It’s seasonless, especially for people who travel a lot,” she Mart, Eva Jackson, owner said. “There is appreciation for the fact that we recycle dead The New Mart attracts Rose Marie Migliazzo of Romy M. at the CMC stands with models of the Santa Fe, N.M., bou- stock. It’s a trend in itself.” buyers who want trusted wearing La Formé denim. tique Sign of the Pampered Sitting downstairs during the CMC’s afternoon happy Maiden, was placing orders hour on June 17, which featured a fashion show showcas- brands for Fall. Working with trusted showrooms that have served ing the new Hyfve misses/contemporary line Remixmess, Buyer traffic seemed steady within the halls of The New as valuable resources for many years is important to her Guadalupe Goler of Goler Fine Imported Shoes in Santa Mart, with the Designers and Agents show held on the business. Fe, N.M., explained that she divides her market time among third floor attracting buyers who wanted unique goods. “The established relationships with showrooms are im- Los Angeles, New York and Dallas. “I am looking for Holiday and add-ons, just something portant. They know my business and call out lines to suit my “The energy that Los Angeles has is very trendy,” she interesting that you can’t find everywhere,” said Sydney needs,” she said. “I attend almost every market.” said. “We are focused on earthy tones and citrus green. We Duncan of W Boutique LLC in Tucson, Ariz. “I like the The Velvet Heart showroom saw buyers from South Da- spread our time around, but if I am shopping in Los Angeles, small lines because they’re not at the big department stores kota, Miami, Hawaii and Ohio who were placing orders at a I am doing Immediates.” and not marking down every 15 minutes.” nearly 50-50 split between Immediates and Fall, with a bit On the fifth floor of the B building, Rose Marie Migliaz- Maylee Lim, owner of the Thousand Oaks, Calif., bou- of Spring 2020. Color trends included cobalt blue and mus- zo of the Romy M. showroom was taking orders from buy- tique Rebel Violet, was placing orders for Fall 2019 and tard, said West Coast Account Executive Indigo Davis, who also noted that buyers were approaching market more informed, with a bit of restraint. “They like that sweet spot of $25 or $30 [wholesale],” she said. “People are being con- servative and trying to buy smart. It’s the only way they can keep surviving.”
An informed experience at the Cooper This season, Brand Assembly occupied the entire top floor of the Cooper Design Space with apparel and novelty items. Antonia Pappas, owner of the Arvada, Colo., apparel boutique Vouna, was most impressed by The Green- house, a pop-up CBD wellness-and-lifestyle section. “With Colorado being one of the states on Brand Assembly at the Cooper Design Space From left, Rimpel Lail and Indigo Davis at the Velvet Heart showroom in The New Mart ➥ L.A. Market page 4
APPARELNEWS.NET JUNE 21–27, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3
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L.A. Market Continued from page 3 ther/daughter buying team was shopping The New West showroom to find special the forefront of it [CBD], I appreciated their pieces in the better contemporary category. knowledge and they didn’t seem to be fly- “The way we see our business going for by-night operations,” she said. “It was un- small independents is to think outside the expected.” box. We want things that will jump out for As a contemporary-clothing resource, the customer. Anything that is exciting is April Hicks of the April Blooms Boutique not always easily found,” he said. “You have 2019 in Pasadena, Calif., was searching for Fall to find items that will bring customers into WATERWEAR and Holiday goods that would fit within her bricks-and-mortar.” average $80 retail price point. “I am always looking for new vendors Gerry Building’s comfortable buying hoping they’ll be here to have a unique as- atmosphere sortment of items in my store,” she said. “Affordable quality is what I look for. I am On the penthouse level of the Gerry Build- coming in to fill in pieces between seasons.” ing, buyers sought refuge from the busy mar- The Cooper Design Space’s fifth-floor ket atmosphere in favor of a more intimate showroom, The New West, saw buyers who shopping experience. Seeing traffic from her established accounts, Karen Kearns said that visitors to her eponymous showroom were writing orders for Im- mediates, Fall and Resort/ Spring pieces. “Our appointments came in and it’s been steady,” she said. “They’re filling in if they missed something.” There was a large de- mand for her toppers and throws, cardigans, V-necks, pieces that featured embel- lishments and some novelty items. Carrying lines such as In Cashmere and the family-owned Italian brand La Bottega, Kearns was Karen Kearns at the Gerry Building excited about introducing her clientele to Khangura, a were interested in placing orders follow- Pasadena, Calif., brand that manufactures in ing treacherous weather after the first few the United States. months of the year. “They own their own prints and will al- “A lot of our stores have had a really good ways do nice texture and mixed media such April and May,” said owner Jenny Corcoran as prints with slubs,” she said. “The fabrics Ewing. “People are feeling enthusiastic after feel really good and everything is put togeth- the terrible weather everyone had.” er in the United States.” For Phillip Markey, owner of the Hous- While many of her clients are local ton-headquartered Soho, this trip to market Southern California stores, Kearns saw buy- was not only an opportunity to buy for Holi- ers from Arizona, Colorado, Washington and The only audited four-color, glossy magazine in the day but also served as a method to prepare Oregon. Due to her large following by re- swimwear industry for over 25 years, Waterwear his daughter Lindsey to manage the inde- sorts, Kearns said that the June market was influences swim buyers and manufacturers through pendent business one day. With five doors— important for her clients as this is the quieter three in Texas and two in Florida—the fa- season in California’s desert regions. unparalleled nationwide distribution. • 17,000 readers • Bonus distribution for 6 months at Calendar over 20 key trade shows June 23 WWSRA Northwest Summer June 28 Preview • 28,000 e-newsletter subscribers SMOTA Miami Santa Fe Fashion Week Oregon Convention Center Fort Lauderdale Convention Center, Buffalo Thunder Resort & Casino Portland Fort Lauderdale, Fla. Santa Fe, N.M. • 5,000 digital readers Through June 27 Through June 25 Through June 29 GlobalShop @ RetailX • 6 months of digital exposure Fashion Market Northern GTS Florida Jewelry and Internet Retailer Conference & California Accessories Expo Exhibition San Mateo County Event Center Osceola Heritage Park RFID in Retail and Apparel San Mateo, Calif. Kissimmee, Fla. McCormick Place Through June 25 Through June 30 Chicago CALA Denver Through June 27 July 2019 Waterwear Denver Merchandise Mart Denver June 26 Through June 24 Complete Tradeshow Distribution Pitti Immagine Filati June 25 Fortezza da Basso Florence, Italy There’s more WWSRA Rocky Mt. Outdoor Through June 28 on ApparelNews.net. Miami Swim Show Hammock Surf Expo Show India International Footwear Fair Denver Merchandise Mart Pragati Maidan New Delhi For calendar details and contact Cabana Swim Collective LA Fashion Market Denver New Delhi information, visit ApparelNews. Through June 27 Paraiso Miami Active Collective LA Textile Through June 28 net/events.
Art Hearts Miami Prèmière Vision LA Majors Market Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. DESTINATIONmiami WWDMAGIC OffPrice Show Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff. powered by COTERIE Sourcing@MAGIC Dallas Market Week
Curve LV POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel Call now for special rates News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2019 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub lished weekly except semi-weekly first week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, (213) 627-3737 and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.
4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JUNE 21–27, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET
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cala.indd 1 6/13/19 4:22 PM FASHION Fashion Students at Santa Monica College Present LA Mode 2019 Fashion students from Santa Monica College showed an the students, who were challenged to convert trash into treasure. bekah Touma; Technology Award Tukatech was awarded to eclectic mix of casual, cocktail, club and creative styles that Francis John Tejas, Sarah Moratto, Rebekah Touma, Are- Rebekah Touma; and Technology Awards AIMS360 were featured 17 collections seen at the annual student fashion zoo Aref and Tsuyoshi Ichikawa stepped up to the challenge. received by Slivana Omar, B. Palomarez, Tanner Smith, Sar- show held June 13 in Barnum Hall at Santa Monica High Several awards were handed out. Best of Show was given ah Moratto, Najma Rashidi and Rebekah Touma. School. to Slivana Omar; Creative Achievement went to B. Palo- Santa Monica College photography students were respon- This year’s theme was sustainability and technology, high- marez; Marketable Achievement was awarded to Tanner sible for shooting the show as well as the look-book photos lighted by a collaboration with Los Angeles label Lucky Smith; Sustainability Achievement went to Sarah Morratto; for the student designers, who are part of the two-year fash- Brand, which donated damaged samples, scraps and trims for Technical Achievement was given to Najma Rashidi and Re- ion studies program at SMC.—Deborah Belgum DANO ROTTMAN ANNA JOHNS ANNA JOHNS ANNA JOHNS ARIEL PAYNE Tara Marcarian Sarah Morratto Rebekah Touma Najma Rashidi Nicole Goodman
6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JUNE 21–27, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET
06-7.smc.indd 6 6/20/19 5:19 PM FASHION DANO ROTTMAN ANNA JOHNS Slivana Omar Daria Maksimov DANO ROTTMAN DANO ROTTMAN
Durryl Washington Tanner Smith
A beach-to-street lifestyle brand
EMBLEM SHOWROOM MEDIA PLAYGROUND PR 310-420-0125 Kim 323-687-3360 [email protected] [email protected] New Mart Building Ste. 707 845 S. Los Angeles St. 127 E. 9th St. LA, CA 90014 LA, CA 90015
APPARELNEWS.NET JUNE 21–27, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7
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Lubov Azria Continued from page 1 read,” she said. “This brought me to a dif- ferent understanding of life. I had been such a 9-to-5 person or better said an 8-in-the- morning to 10-at-night person. I was really trying to find that inner peace and essence It takes dollars to make a difference and what my next chapter was going to be.” That next chapter turned out to be a new luxury collection of silk pajamas, silk paja- The California Fashion Association responds to every ma–like tops for everyday wear, silk dress- issue affecting the apparel and textile industry of Califor- es, cashmere sweaters and ultra-soft denim pants whose name, La Bohème by Lubov nia…and is making a major impact on the media, as well as city, state and federal officials.
The California Fashion Association offers access to professional advice and service for every facet of the business. If you are involved in domestic manufacturing, or off-shore programs, the issues within the industry affect your growing businesses!
We welcome your participation in the business-of-doing- business. Join us now! Looks from the latest collection CFA 444 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, CA 90071 Azria, reflected the bohemian lifestyle in Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 Los Angeles that many people seek. Email: [email protected] Most of these pieces fit in with the de- signer’s lifestyle. For the first three months Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org away from BCBGMaxAzria, she spent a lot of time in bed. “I spent most of my time in pajamas. I discovered that nobody makes incredible pajamas unless they cost $2,000. And it is so simple,” she explained. “For at least the first nine months, I needed to feel comfort and I needed to feel stylish. I want- ed to make my own rules and follow my own dreams. And that is what La Bohème is all about.” Azria introduced the brand in March. Launching a new label can be a difficult venture for anyone. Lubov Azria’s jour- ney to creating a new fashion line was made Get Inspired! more challenging by the death on May 6 of her husband from lung Hundreds of Stocked cancer. Novelty Knits, But the designer Wovens, Linings is back in her stu- and More! dio, a large room at the nearly emp- One Roll Minimum. ty former BCBG- MaxAzria headquar- www.cinergytextiles.com ters located inside a 176,000-square-foot Tel: 213-748-4400 structure in Vernon, [email protected] Calif. The feel of Az- ria’s studio, like her new line, has a bohe- Apparel News Group CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR PUBLISHED BY mian vibe. There is an LOUISE DAMBERG TLM PUBLISHING INC. oversized beige linen DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING APPAREL NEWS GROUP Lubov Azria TERRY MARTINEZ Publishers of: couch and two large California Apparel News SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Waterwear armchairs gathered 741945-2019 AMY VALENCIA Decorated around a hefty wooden Seventy-four years of news, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE fashion and information LYNNE KASCH EXECUTIVE OFFICE coffee table in the cen- California Market Center CEO/PUBLISHER BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT ter of the wide-open MOLLY RHODES 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 TERRY MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 space. SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST (213) 627-3737 SERGIO ESPELETA GUILLEN Fax (213) 623-5707 Racks behind the EXECUTIVE EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS Classified Advertising Fax furniture display the DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT (213) 623-1515 RETAIL EDITOR CHRIS MARTIN www.apparelnews.net collection, which ANDREW ASCH RACHEL MARTINEZ [email protected] is heavy on silk pa- ASSOCIATE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY jama–like tops, flowy DOROTHY CROUCH PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. CONTRIBUTORS CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE silk dresses, silk and ALYSON BENDER JEFFERY YOUNGER denim jumpsuits, V- VOLKER CORELL PROFESSIONAL SERVICES JOHN ECKMIER & RESOURCE SECTION neck slipdresses made JOHN McCURRY JUNE ESPINO of silk charmeuse, ESTEVAN RAMOS PRODUCTION MANAGER TIM REGAS KENDALL IN tie-dyed cashmere N. JAYNE SEWARD HOPE WINSBOROUGH EDITORIAL DESIGNER sweaters, solid-color NATALIE ZFAT JOHN FREEMAN FISH cashmere and wool WEB PRODUCTION FINANCE MORGAN WESSLER DAVID MARTINEZ Pieces from La Bohème by Lubov Azria sweaters, and denim and cotton-twill pants.
8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JUNE 21–27, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET
01.3-4,8-9.cover.indd 8 6/20/19 4:56 PM T-SHIRTS Going From Cocktail Dresses to T-shirts for Designer Sarah Parker In 2006, Sarah Parker was designing the contemporary label DiSanto, a line of cocktail dresses carrying her maiden name, which was sold at high-end boutiques. But the economic downturn in 2008 forced her to shutter her brand. At the same time, she started a family with her husband, Nate Parker, a director, writer and actor best known for the 2016 independent film “The Birth of a Nation.” The Parkers now have a family, which includes three daughters and two stepdaughters, so it seemed only natu- ral that motherhood would change her lifestyle and clothing choices. When Sarah Parker recently returned to the fashion game, she decided to take her personal style and put that into her line. Called Most High, the label is a collection of T-shirts, sweatshirts, jogger pants and jackets for men and women designed in Los Angeles. It was introduced on June 14 at a one-day pop-up shop at The Leverage showroom on La Brea Avenue. “I really enjoyed designing something I could wear,” Parker said. “Cocktail dresses were like gowns. You wear them once. I wanted something that I could wear every day.” Most High, which acknowledges an appreciation for God, mixes the style of streetwear with the comfort of activewear. “There’s a spirituality attached to it because I’m grateful,” evangelical. It’s for everybody,” she said. a cropped T-shirt silhouette for women. Parker said. “Clothing is my way of saying thank you and The line’s T-shirts have a clean, boxy fit, which is em- T-shirts, most of which are made from a cotton/polyes- putting something I love into the world.” blematic of the 1990s. The tees come in several different col- ter blend, are only one part of the 11-piece debut collec- With spirituality in mind, the brand’s logo is a hand with orways, which include black, white, heather gray and heather tion. Parker also designed sweatpants, sweatshirts, coach’s a forefinger pointing toward the sky. The brand’s motto is red. jackets and satin baseball jackets. The satin baseball jackets “Formed By The Most High,” which is printed on many of The bestselling items at the event included the Repeat T- feature embroidery and embellishments made in Los An- the tops and bottoms in the collection. shirt, which has the words “Most High” repeated four times geles. This line represents the first time Parker has attempted across the front. Most High is sold at the line’s direct-to-consumer chan- to express faith with fashion. But she said that Most High Other T-shirts have the brand’s name printed on the nel, www.formedbythemosthigh.com, and Parker hopes to is a streetwear line first. Wearers will not find Bible verses sleeves and the brand’s logo on the upper-left-hand side of expand by selling it to stores. Retail prices range from $30 to printed and embroidered in the clothes. “It’s not meant to be the chest. For upcoming collections, Parker plans to release $140.—Andrew Asch
Lubov Azria Continued from previous page daughter Marine Azria and her husband, Leran Hadar. They have two locations—one Jumpsuits can be worn loose for a more on Abbot Kinney Boulevard and another on casual approach or cinched at the waist to be Beverly Glen Circle. dressed up with high heels. “Versatility in Nevena Borissova, the owner of Curve, clothes is very important to me,” Azria said, said she was approached about carrying the who was wearing a pair of distressed jeans, line and loved it. “It has the south of France a pajama-like silk top and blue suede high written all over it,” she said. “I think it is heels. super beautiful, and the fabric is absolutely Silhouettes tend to be flowy with sleeves amazing.” that brush the knuckles and tops that are She believes the design is really well more boxy, a prevailing trend these days. thought out, with a professional eye, and is a The line, whose retail prices range from bohemian classic. “It is selling really well,” $88 to $700, is being manufactured in a Chi- she noted. nese factory that is only making 24 pieces La Bohème is being represented by the per style right now for what is being called a Brama Group in Milan, a fashion distribu- small niche collection. tor with showrooms in Madrid, Paris, Lon- La Bohème is being sold in two Los don, Berlin, Munich and Milan. Angeles stores—Curve on North Robert- The collection, found at laboheme.com, son Boulevard in West Hollywood and The has no showroom in the United States right Piece Collective, owned by Azria’s step- now, but Azria and her staff are reviewing
Florencia Garcia and Kun Kacibil cutting fabric and patterns in the sample room.
stores with whom they’d like to work. ble, three people work to create the patterns Next month, the new label is planning to and designs sent to China. show at the Cabana trade show in Miami When Azria isn’t working on her collec- Beach, Fla., during Miami Swim Week, tion, she is helping to run the other compa- scheduled for July 11–16. The brand will be nies started by her husband. One is Azria featured in the capsule section of the show Home, which makes modular and prefab featuring emerging brands. homes, including affordable housing and A small niche collection is a far cry from homeless shelters, and the other is Zapp- the behemoth collection of clothing Lubov Light, which is an LED lightbulb that is also Azria designed when working with her hus- a bug zapper. It can be used inside the house band at BCBGMaxAzria and the French la- or outide on the patio. ZappLight distributors bel Hérvé Léger they acquired in 1998. include Home Depot, Walmart, Walgreens At one time, there were 1,400 employ- and Telebrands. ees inside the warehouse-like headquarters, “My day is kind of sporadic,” the designer and the collections were seen twice a year said. “My mornings are for doing designs on the runway during New York Fashion and ideas and writing emails to China, and Week. then in the afternoon I work on these other Today, Azria has four people working projects and then go home.” on the label with her, including her oldest Home right now is in the Los Angeles daughter, Chloe, who is 25. seaside suburb of Pacific Palisades, where Maria Vargas in the sample room Down the hall in a room filled with bright Azria starts her day running on the beach sunlight, sewing machines and a cutting ta- and ends it by watching a beautiful sunset.
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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 17 APRIL 26–MAY 2, 2019 74 YEARS $2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 21 MAY 24–30, 2019 74 YEARS THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR $2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 22 MAY 31–JUNE 6, 2019 Proposed Tariffs on Chinese YEARS THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Clothing Manufacturer 74 Goods Has the Apparel 74 YEARS Three Dots Closes Doors THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Reed Exhibitions THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR , a con- Industry Scrambling By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor Three Dots Exclusion of Turkey and By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor Shelves Agenda Festival After nearly 25 years in business, India from GSP Could Bring temporary knit tops and womenswear company launched in By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Agenda Festival Robert Jungmann has been importing hemp fabric from Reed 1995 by Sharon Lebon, has ceased operations. ReedPop, a division of Calls to Lebon, the company’s chief executive and presi- China for more than 20 years for the T-shirts he manufactures After a two-year run, the consumer show New Sourcing Problems in Los Angeles. was canceled by its producer, dent, and to Bruno Lebon, the company’s vice president, . The news that the Trump administration is raising tariffs on Exhibitions Long Beach were not answered, and emails to sales representatives Associate Editor Chinese textile imports fromlabel. 10 percent to 25 percent is a big The festival made its tradedebut show in Long held Beach, at the Calif., in 2017 By Dorothy Crouch bounced back as undeliverable. Jungmaven Agenda Sources said the company, based in Garden Grove, Calif., blow to his following the . “This tariff affects us hugely,” he said. “Our No. 1 expense A great deal of attention has been paid to the issues sur- shut its doors on April 18, right before the Easter weekend, Convention Center The festival made a splash because it was the first consum- rounding the Trump administration’s move to impose up to an while sales reps were out on the road selling the label’s knit is cost of goods, and now it went up 25 percent. That hurts.” Other manufacturers faced with the Chinese textile tariff can additional 25 percent higher tariff on certain goods entering the tops and fashion collection. “They were desperate for cash er-day event produced by a prominent trade show. It was seen shift their sourcing to other parts of the world, but Jungmann as a way for trade-show exhibitors to make extra money after United States from China. to go forward,” one source said. Finding new sourcing partners for textiles created within a As recently as mid-April,Fashion a sales representativeMarket Northern was sellingCali- has a different problem. The only country that manufactures the wholesale-focused trade show wrapped up. The Agenda Festival continued to run in 2018 even after particular region or relying on the craftsmanship for which a the label’s collection at the hemp fabric is China. “There is no place we can purchase hemp fabric. We can’t certain country is known could prove increasingly difficult. fornia trade show, held five times a year in San Mateo, Calif. Agenda canceled its Long Beach tradeSands show lastExpo year. and Agenda Con- purchase it from Europe, Vietnam or the United➥ TariffsStates. page Only 9 continues to produce trade shows in Las Vegas, with the next On May 16, the United States declared Turkey, a source It was unclear how many employees were laid off. As of for silk, ineligible to continue as a Generalized System of this week, the company’s owners were selling the venture’s China does what we purchase. There is no option,” he said. event scheduled. for Aug. 12–14 at the vention Center Preferences trade partner. In March, U.S. Trade Represen- manufacturing equipment, one source said.➥ Three Dots page 3 tative Robert Lighthizer explained that Turkey had evolved Three Dots started out small, but by 2006 its revenues had Rob Weinstein, the marketing vice president of ReedPop West, said the Agenda Festival’s pop-up market,➥ Agenda which page featured 4 into a nation that is “sufficiently economically developed music and food trucks, remained popular with consumers. They and should no longer benefit from preferential market ac- Virtual Reality, cess to the United States market.” ➥ Trade page 3 During 2017, U.S. trade with Turkey totaled an estimated
Traditional Retailers Have a Digitization and Social TRADE SHOW REPORT Change of Heart Regarding Media Shake Up Retail Sustainability and Secure Pocket Square Clothing the Value of Resale By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Trade: Guatemala Provides Acquires Clothing By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor The future of retail is looking like a chapter out of a science- fiction novel. Supply-Chain Solutions for Manufacturer With What is old is becoming new again for traditional retailers Not too long down the road, shoppers will be able to try on looking for added revenue streams. That’s because the sec- highly accurate three-dimensional representations of clothes in the Americas Expansion in Mind ondhand clothing, handbag and footwear market has been http://www.apparelnews.net/classifieds/print-preview/8320/virtual dressing rooms. And consumers might have as much 1/1 start- control over the look and style of their garmentsMarcum and shoes Retail as By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor By Andrew Asch Retail Editor gaining an unprecedented amount of traction with store L.A. Pocket Square Clothing owners. a designer. hotel at Those were some of the predictionsJW Marriott at the GUATEMALA CITY—As a country that benefits from the Downtown Los Angeles’ According to the “2019 ThredUp Resale Report,” the re- , held May 9 at the Symposium Dominican Republic–Central American Free Trade Agreement, ed out doing business in 2011 making bow ties and pocket sale market in the last three years has grown 21 times faster in downtown Los Angeles. squares, eventually branching out to bespoke clothing. than the traditional retail-apparel market. In 2018, 12 million Live Guatemala is preparing to see an increase in business from The annual symposium has consistently focused on chang- Then, in 2016, co-founders Rodolfo Ramirez and Andrew more women bought secondhand products than in 2017, an United States apparel brands that might need to shift sourcing es in retail and fashion—topics that should ➥be Marcumon the radar page of 9 partnerships away from China. With the demand for sustainable Cheung opened a 1,250-square-foot flagship at 205 W. 7th increase from 44 million to 56 million. St. in downtown Los Angeles, where an array of bow ties, “The resale customer is no longer somebody else’s cus- every retailer and fashion manufacturer, said Ron Friedman, a sourcing from apparel brands, mills in the region are preparing ThredUp, wrote in the pocket squares and sunglasses are displayed. tomer. They are everybody’s customer,” James Reinhart, the to meet that need. According to the U.S. Department of Commerce, Guatema- With the two thinking about expanding into new catego- co-founder and chief executive of California Top Hand lan clothing exports to the United States are up. For the one-year ries, they decided to go more vertical by recently acquiring report. “Mass market or luxury, if people can find a high- SM : period ending March 2019, Guatemala exported, held $1.46 May billion 14– the small L.A. clothing manufacturer quality product for much less, they’ll➥ choose Luxury used. Resale As pagethe 3 INSIDE , for an undisclosed sum. line between new and used apparel blurs for consumers, a Where fashion gets down to business in apparel, which wasApparel up 9.65 percentSourcing over Show the previous year. At the 28th annual Hotel and Convention Center California Top Hand had been working with Pocket 16 at the Grand Tikal Futura➥ Apparel Sourcing Show page 3 Square Clothing for some time to make its suiting accesso- ries. The manufacturer also made restaurant➥ Pocket and Square hospitality page 9 uniforms as well as shirts for other companies. : SM INSIDE 6 : SM Where fashion gets down to business INSIDE 3 88 SM Where fashion gets down to business INSIDE: DESIGNER DEBUT Where fashion gets down to business L.A. retail vacancies up ... p. 2 Students from the 6 Students from FCI Fashion School showed off their creative talents at 4 a student runway show. For more looks, see page 8. L.A. Fashion District future ... p. 3 Academy of Art University 2 FASHION FORWARDin San Francisco 2 April retail sales ... p. 4 8 presented their creative 3 COURTESY OF JOHNNY WAS JOHNNY OF COURTESY Second Generation sold ... p. 2 www.apparelnews.net interpretations on fashion Dressbarn closing stores ... p. 2 Women’s denim sales up ... p. 2 at their annual student DailyLook subscription service ... p. 3 Elana Kluner Gap’s earnings down ... p. 2 TIM REGAS TIM fashion show. For more Sustainability study ... p. 9 Marine Layer using old T-shirts ... p. 8 PSYCHEDELIC TIMES Assembly approves fur ban ... p. 2 looks, see page 6. Sustainability Resources ... p. 9 Students at the Los Angeles Trade-Technical College student New Miami Beach show ... p. 4 AS THE WORLD TURNS Fashion Resources ... p. 9 www.apparelnews.net www.apparelnews.net The designers for the Johnny Was brand traveled the world for inspiration for INSIDE fashion show designed their creations around the 50th www.apparelnews.net their Fall ’19 collection with lots of ethnic influences. For more looks, see page 7. THIS ISSUE anniversary of Woodstock. For more looks, see page 6. So Hyun An 4/25/19 5:58 PM
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