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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 241 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Austin Bush the last edition and wrote to us with help- ful hints, useful advice and interesting A huge shout out to LPers for life Ilaria Walker anecdotes: and Bruce Evans, super carto Diana Von Holdt and new LPer Sarah Reid, as well as to the kind Maarten de Jong, Janine Kaestner, Debbie Liang, folks on the ground in Bangkok. Philippe May, David Ochel, Lucia Piccioli, Gita Pitter, Anke Schneider, Edwin Schuurman, Anne- Marie Schuurman-Kleijberg ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Illustrations pp60-1 and pp64-5 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Wat Bencham- abophit, Bangkok, Naxerdam/Getty Images. THIS BOOK China Williams and repur- Senior Cartographer posed by Austin Bush. This Diana Von Holdt This 11th edition of Lonely guidebook was commis- Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Bangkok guide- sioned in Lonely Planet’s Alison Lyall book was researched and Melbourne office, and pro- Book Designer written by Austin Bush, duced by the following: Wibowo Rusli who also wrote the previ- Commissioning Editors Language Content ous edition. The Bangkok Glenn van der Knijff, Ilaria Branislava Vladisavljevic Today chapter was written Walker Cover researcher by Dr Thitinan Pongsu- Destination Editor Naomi Parker dhirak, Director of the Sarah Reid Thanks to Imogen Ban- Institute of Security and Product Editor nister, Bruce Evans, Claire International Studies, Chu- Kate James Naylor, Karyn Noble, Mar- lalongkorn University. The Assisting Editors Katie tine Power, Angela Tinson Sex Industry in Thailand Connolly, Trent Holden, chapter was written by Kellie Langdon, Ali Lemer ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 242 See also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P000P245 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P000P246 3 ENTERTAINMENT P000P247 7 SHOPPING P000P247 42 SLEEPING SPORTS & P000ACTIVITIES P248 Index 4 SLEEPING P248 100 Tonson Gallery 107 Amulet Market 68 bargaining 44, 46 child prostitution 222 Ananta Samakhom Throne bars, see drinking & children, travel with 22-3, Hall 92 nightlife 154 A Ancient City 150, bathrooms 234 Chinatown 10, 55, 95-102 Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall 17 Ancient Cloth Museum 91 beaches 162, 165, 168-9 95, 100, 258, 3, 6 91, 90 beer 34-5 accommodation 184 accommodation 15, 177-92 animism 206 Benjakiti Park 135-6 drinking & nightlife 101 airport 192 antiques 43, 47, 147 Bhuddhaisawan Chapel entertainment 102 Amphawa 165 apartments 191 69, 18 food 96, 100, 101 Ayuthaya 160 architecture 19, 123, 207, Bhumibol Adulyadej, King highlights 95-6, 97 Banglamphu 180-2 123 art galleries 19, see also (Rama IX) 21, 91, 195, shopping 102 Chinatown 184 individual art galleries 200, 206-7 sights 97-101 Greater Bangkok 192 Artist’s House 151 bicycle tours 49-50, 87, transport 96 Hat Chao Samran 168-9 132, 144 arts 19, 207-11 walks 100 Kanchanaburi 172 boat tours 19, 50, 68, 125 Assumption Cathedral 120 Chinese influence 208 Khao Yai 176 boat travel 227 ATMs 232 Chinese New Year 20 Ko Ratanakosin & books 194, 211, 213 Ayuthaya 157-60, 159 Chitlada Palace 92 Thonburi 180 arts 208 Ayuthaya Historical Park Ko Samet 163 Chulalongkorn, King 157-9 culture 206 (Rama V) 91, 92, 197-8, language 237 food 216, 217 208 Phetchaburi 168 bowling 117 Chung Kai Allied War Riverside, Silom & B boxing, see moo·ay tai Cemetery Baan Krua 106 Lumphini 186-9 Brahmanism 206 (Kanchanaburi) 171-2 Baiyoke II Tower 109 Siam Square, Pratunam, Bridge on the River Kwai Church of Santa Cruz 99 Ploenchit & Ban Baat 78 170, 171 Chuvit Garden 135 Ratchathewi 184-5 Ban Kamthieng 135 brunch 136 cinemas 40, 42, 111, 154, see Sukhumvit 189-92 Bang Nam Pheung Market BTS (Skytrain) 226 also film Thewet & Dusit 182-4 150-1 Buddhism 206, 207 climate 15, 20-1 websites 15, 178, 191 Bang Rak Museum 120 bus travel 225, 228 clothing activities 20-1, 48-51, see Bangkok Art & Culture business hours 25, 34, 40, etiquette 59, 91 also individual Centre 106 44, 232-3 shopping 43-4, 115, 142 activities, Sports & Bangkok Doll Factory & consulates 229-30 Activities subindex Museum 107-8 cookery courses 12, 50, 132, addresses 226 Bangkok University Art C 143, 155 AIDS 220, 231 Gallery 151-2 cabaret 40 costs 14, 25, 178 air pollution 230 Bangkokian Museum 120 canal trips 50, 227 counterfeits 44-6 air travel 224-5 Banglamphu 9, 54-5, 76-87, car travel 228 courses 50, 75, 117, 143 see Allied War Cemetery 76, 85, 254, 8 cell phones 234 also cookery courses, (Kanchanaburi) 171 accommodation 180-2 Chakri, Phraya (Rama I) Sports & Activities ambulance 230 drinking & nightlife 84-6 196-7 subindex Amphawa 163-5 entertainment 86 Chantharakasem National credit cards 232 Amphawa Floating Market food 77, 81-4 Museum (Ayuthaya) 158 cruises, see boat tours (Amphawa) 165, 174, 24 highlights 76-7, 79, 80 Chao Phraya River 11 culture 205-11 shopping 77, 86-7 Chao Sam Phraya National currency 232 sights 78-81 Museum (Ayuthaya) 158 customs regulations 229 Sights 000 sports & activities 87 Chatuchak Weekend Market cycling, see bicycle tours Map Pages 000 transport 77 9, 147-9, 149, 8, 25, Photo Pages 000 walks 85 29, 147 243 HIV/AIDS 220, 231 D F holidays 233 L đà·grôr (Thai volleyball) ferry travel 227 ladyboys, see transgender Holy Rosary Church 99 87 festivals 12, 20-1 people hospitals 231-2 Damnoen Saduak Floating film 21, 194, 209-10 Lak Meuang 70 Hualamphong Train Market (Ratchaburi) language 15, 236-40 fire 230 Station 99 174 courses 117 Flashlight Market 98-9 INDEX dance 40, 210-11, 5, 39 legal matters 231 floating markets 174 I dangers 69, 233 lesbian travellers 37-8 flu 230 immigration 205 Death Railway Bridge libraries 92-3, 121, 135 food 7, 19, 24-32, 212-18, D- (Kanchanaburi) 170 influenza 230 see also individual Lingam Shrine 107 Democracy Monument internet access 231 M neighbourhoods, literature 211, see also 79-80 itineraries 16-17 Eating subindex books dentists 232 books 216, 217 live music 21, 39-40, 84 Dhevasathan 79 children 23 J Loi Krathong 21 disabilities, travellers Jamjuree Art Gallery 106-7 costs 25 Lumphini 55, 118-32, 118, with 235 Jeath War Museum festivals 21 268 Don Hoi Lot 165 (Kanchanaburi) 171 health 230 accommodation 186-9 Don Muang International jewellery 43 language 237-9 drinking & nightlife Airport 224 Jim Thompson Art Center food courts 110 128-9 Don Wai Market (Nakhon 105 food 126-8 Pathom) 174 Jim Thompson House 7, highlights 118, 119, 122 drinking & nightlife 33-6, G 105, 7 see also individual galleries, see art galleries jogging 49 sights 121-2 neighbourhoods, gà ·teu·i, see transgender sports & activities 132 Drinking & Nightlife people transport 119 K subindex gay travellers 37-8, 127 Lumphini Park 122 opening hours 34 Kaeng Krachan National gem scams 43, 233 Park (Phetchaburi) 168 drinks 34-5, 217 go-go bars 41 Kanchaburi 169-73, 170 M driving 228 Golden Buddha 97, 11 Kathmandu Photo Madam Tussaud’s 116 Dusit 55, 88-94, 88, Golden Mount 80 Gallery 121 Mae Nam Chao Phraya 11 257, 90 golf 49 kàthoey, see transgender magazines 230 accommodation 182-4 people Grand Palace 58-62, Mahakan Fort 80-1 food 89, 93-4 , Khao Laem Ya/Mu Ko 53 58 Mahidol, King Ananda highlights 88, 89, 90-1 Samet National Park GranMonte Estate (Khao (Rama VIII) 199, 200 sights 90-3 Yai) 175 162 malls 43, 47, 110 transport 89 Greater Bangkok 55, 145- Khao San Road 82, 48 markets 43, 47, see also 55, Dusit Palace Park 90-1, 90 145 Khao Yai 173-6 Shoppping subindex accommodation 192 Dusit Zoo 92, 22 Khao Yai National Park massage 48-9, 50, 144 drinking & nightlife 146, (Khao Yai) 175 courses 75, 143 152-3 Khlong Toey Market 135 measures 230 E entertainment 153-5 King Buddhalertla (Phuttha medical services 231-2 electricity 229 food 146, 152 Loet La) Naphalai meditation 50, 74, 75 Elephant Kraal (Ayuthaya) highlights 145, 146 Memorial Park (Amphawa) 165 mermaid statue (Ko 158-9 shopping 146, 155 King Prajadhipok Samet) 160-2 embassies 229-30 sights 147-52 Museum 81 Metro 226 Emerald Buddha 59, 62 sports & activities 155 klorng boats 227 minivans 225 emergencies 230 transport 146 Ko Kret 151 mobile phones 234 language 239 Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Ko Ratanakosin 54, 56-75, monarchy 206-7 entertainment 39-42, see Sabha 99-101 56, 71, 252 money 14, 25, 178, 232 also individual gyms 49 neighbourhoods, accommodation 180 Mongkut, King (Rama IV) Entertainment drinking & nightlife 75 66, 79, 197 subindex H entertainment 75 moo·ay tai 40-1, 50, 93, H Gallery 121 opening hours 40 food 57, 73-4 94, 144 Hat Chao Samran 168-9 Erawan Museum (Chang highlights 56, 57, 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  • BANGKOK 101 Emporium at Vertigo Moon Bar © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © MBK Sirocco Sky Bar Chao Phraya Express Chinatown Wat Phra Kaew Wat Pho (P171)

    BANGKOK 101 Emporium at Vertigo Moon Bar © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © MBK Sirocco Sky Bar Chao Phraya Express Chinatown Wat Phra Kaew Wat Pho (P171)

    © Lonely Planet Publications 101 BANGKOK BANGKOK Bangkok In recent years, Bangkok has broken away from its old image as a messy third-world capital to be voted by numerous metro-watchers as a top-tier global city. The sprawl and tropical humidity are still the city’s signature ambassadors, but so are gleaming shopping centres and an infectious energy of commerce and restrained mayhem. The veneer is an ultramodern backdrop of skyscraper canyons containing an untamed universe of diversions and excesses. The city is justly famous for debauchery, boasting at least four major red-light districts, as well as a club scene that has been revived post-coup. Meanwhile the urban populous is as cosmopolitan as any Western capital – guided by fashion, music and text messaging. But beside the 21st-century façade is a traditional village as devout and sacred as any remote corner of the country. This is the seat of Thai Buddhism and the monarchy, with the attendant splendid temples. Even the modern shopping centres adhere to the old folk ways with attached spirit shrines that receive daily devotions. Bangkok will cater to every indulgence, from all-night binges to shopping sprees, but it can also transport you into the old-fashioned world of Siam. Rise with daybreak to watch the monks on their alms route, hop aboard a long-tail boat into the canals that once fused the city, or forage for your meals from the numerous and lauded food stalls. HIGHLIGHTS Joining the adoring crowds at Thailand’s most famous temple, Wat Phra Kaew (p108) Escaping the tour