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Bangkok Zentrum Rainer Krack Tom Vater Handbuch für individuelles Entdecken TIPPS Der berühmteste Tempel: Wat Phra Kaew mit dem legendären Emerald-Buddha | 40 Die imposanteste Ruinenstadt: Sukhothai mit zahllosen alten Tempeln | 221 Der idyllischste Ort: das malerische Bergdorf Samoeng bei Chiang Mai | 300 Strand-Tipp: der über 10 km lange Strand von Ban Krud | 486 Die originellste Unterkunft: Baumhäuser im Khao-Sok-Nationalpark | 592 Die sonderbarste Meditationstechnik: die „schwimmende Nonne“ von Kanchanaburi | 147 Der interessanteste Ausflug: Verlag Peter Rump Bielefeld Peter Verlag eine Tour durch die Berglandschaft von Nan | 383 OW -H Ein Insel-Archipel wie aus dem Bilderbuch: NOW K die Tarutao-Inseln in Südthailand | 723 EISE Ein beinah unentdecktes Inselparadies nahe Phuket: R Ko Yao Yai liegt noch im Dornröschenschlaf | 676 Der komplette Reiseführer für individuelles Reisen und Entdecken auch abseits der Hauptreiserouten in allen Regionen Thailands Bangkok Zentrum Die Namen der Sehenswürdigkeiten und Orientierungspunkte in Thai-Schrift zum Draufzeigen Rainer Krack Tom Vater Thailand 454th rk Impressum 562th at 562th Rainer Krack, Tom Vater REISE KNOW-HOW Thailand erschienen im REISE KNOW-HOW Verlag Peter Rump GmbH Osnabrücker Str. 79 33649 Bielefeld © REISE KNOW-HOW Verlag Peter Rump GmbH 1989, 1990, 1991, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2004, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2013 17., neu bearbeitete und komplett aktualisierte Auflage September 2016 Alle Rechte vorbehalten. Gestaltung Umschlag: G. Pawlak, P. Rump (Layout), André Pentzien (Realisierung) Inhalt: G. Pawlak (Layout); André Pentzien (Realisierung) Karten: der Verlag, B. Spachmüller (vordere Umschlagklappe, Umgebungskarten) Fotonachweis: Rainer Krack (rk), Aroon Thaewchatturat (at), Tom Vater (tv), www.fotolia.com (Autorennachweis jeweils am Bild) Titelfoto: Aroon Thaewchatturat (Motiv: Lisu-Kinder in der Provinz Mae Hong Son) Lektorat (Aktualisierung): André Pentzien PDF-ISBN 978-3-8317-4671-2 Wir freuen uns über Kritik, Kommentare und Verbesserungsvorschläge, gern auch per E-Mail an [email protected]. Alle Informationen in diesem Buch sind von den Autoren mit größter Sorgfalt gesammelt und vom Lektorat des Verlages gewissenhaft bearbeitet und überprüft worden. Da inhaltliche und sachliche Fehler nicht ausgeschlossen werden können, erklärt der Verlag, dass alle Angaben im Sinne der Produkthaftung ohne Garantie erfolgen und dass Verlag wie Autoren keinerlei Verantwortung und Haftung für inhaltliche und sachliche Fehler übernehmen. Die Nennung von Firmen und ihren Produk- Wer im Buchhandel trotzdem kein Glück hat, bekommt ten und ihre Reihenfolge sind als Beispiel unsere Bücher auch über unseren Büchershop ohne Wertung gegenüber anderen anzuse- im Internet: www.reise-know-how.de hen. Qualitäts- und Quantitätsangaben sind rein subjektive Einschätzungen der Autoren und dienen keinesfalls der Bewerbung von Firmen oder Produkten. Kopfzeile 5 Rainer Krack Tom Vater THAILAND Kultur und Gesellschaft 6 Vorwort Vorwort In Thailand findet man alles, was sich Touristen oder Globetrotter nur wün- schen können: zahllose herrliche Strän- de, grandios-schöne Inseln und Buch- ten, einsame Berglandschaften, romanti- sche, palmengesäumte Klongs und Flüs- se, vor Waren berstende Shopping-Cen- ter und eine der raffiniertesten Küchen der Welt. Dazu kommen anmutige Tem- pel, die zur Weltarchitektur ge hö ren, und imposante Ruinenstädte. Nur weni- ge Länder haben so vielfältige Attraktio- nen zu bieten wie Thailand. Als eines der attraktivsten Reiseziele Asiens hatte Thailand in der jüngsten Vergangenheit fast ständig wachsende Touris tenzahlen verbuchen können. Das Auf der Reise zu Hause letzte Jahrzehnt war für Thailand aller- www.reise-know-how.de dings nicht das glücklichste: 2004 ver- wüstete ein Tsunami zahlreiche Küsten- P Ergänzungen nach Redaktionsschluss regionen und forderte Tausend von To- P kostenlose Zusatzinformationen desopfern. Von Mitte 2008 bis Mitte und Downloads 2014 wurde das „Land des Lächelns“ im- P das komplette Verlagsprogramm mer wieder von politischen Krisen er- P aktuelle Erscheinungstermine schüttert, und gelegentlich drohte die P Newsletter abonnieren Lage, in bürgerkriegsähnliche Zustände auszuarten. Darüber hinaus erlebte Bequem einkaufen Thailand 2011 die schlimmsten Über- im Verlagsshop schwemmungen seiner Geschichte, wei- te Teile Zentral-Thailands wirkten wie ein riesiges Binnenmeer, und die Was- sermassen drangen bis nach Bangkok vor und legten sogar den Don Mueang Airport lahm. Am 22.5.2014 kehrte dann endlich Oder Freund auf Ruhe in die Politik ein: Es kam zu einem Facebook werden Militärputsch, und wieder einmal über- nahm das Militär die Regierungsge- schäfte im Land. „Old Thailand Hands“, zu Deutsch: „Alte Thailand-Experten“, Vorwort 7 wissen aus Erfahrung, dass immer, wenn Landes und seiner Bevölkerung. Die die Militärs das Heft in die Hand neh- Thais scheinen einen naturgegebenen men – und das ist sehr häufig – das Land Mechanismus in sich zu tragen, durch eine Art politischen Zwangsurlaub auf- den sie auch nach schwersten Zeiten erlegt bekommt, und das Leben geht rasch zu ihrer althergebrachten, angebo- plötzlich wieder seinen alten, zumeist renen Lebensfreude zurückfinden. Wie entspannten Gang. Nun ja – aus west - sie das genau machen, wissen wir auch licher Sicht bedeutet ein Militärputsch nicht so recht – aber wenn man alles das Ausheben einer gewählten Regie- wüsste, wäre ein Land wohl auch nicht rung, einer der schlimmst möglichen mehr so interessant. Vielleicht können ja politischen Frevel; doch man kann west- Sie, liebe Leser, darüber nachdenken liche Standards nicht an sogenannte und es herausfinden. Es gibt zahllose Drittweltländer anlegen, in der die De- Traumstrände, unter dessen wogenden mokratie eh auf schwankenden Füßen Palmen man darüber nachsinnen kann – steht, wo strikte, althergebrachte Hierar- am besten mit einem kühlen Longdrink chien oft viel wichtiger sind als die in der Hand. Gleichberechtigung, und wo Stimmen In diesem Sinne: „Hay döörn taang und politische Siege oft schlichtweg er- dooy plort pay!“ – das ist der thailändi- kauft werden. Regierungen kommen sche Zungenbrecher für „Gute Reise!“ und gehen in Thailand (von 1932 bis heute hatte Thailand 29 Premierminis - ter), doch was bleibt, ist der wohl uner- Rainer Krack und Tom Vater, klärliche, unwiderstehliche Charme des Juli 2016 036th at 8 Inhalt Kanchanaburi 141 Inhalt Sankhlaburi 154 Nonthaburi 156 Vorwort 6 Ko Kret 159 Exkurse 11 Pathum Thani 161 Kartenverzeichnis 12 Ayutthaya 162 Hinweise zur Benutzung 14 Bang Pa-In 170 Was man unbedingt Lopburi 171 wissen muss 14 Die Regionen im Überblick 16 Aktivitäten im Überblick 20 3 Die Ostküste 176 Überblick 179 Bangkok 22 Si Ratcha 180 1 Pattaya 184 Ko Samet 191 Überblick 25 Chantaburi 196 Geschichte 29 Trat 199 Ankunft 30 Laem Ngop 202 Sehenswertes 37 Ko Chang 203 Nachtleben 67 Shopping 76 Stadtverkehr 84 Zentralthailand 212 Unterkunft 90 4 Essen und Trinken 108 Adressen 115 Überblick 215 Weiterreise von Bangkok 117 Phitsanulok 215 Nationalpark Phu Hin Rong Kla 220 2 Die Umgebung Sukhothai 221 Bangkoks 120 Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park 227 Kamphaeng Phet 229 Crocodile Farm 123 Mae Sot 232 Ancient City 126 Umphang 236 Damnoen Saduak 127 Petchaburi 128 Kaeng-Krachan-Nationalpark 130 Der Norden 238 Cha-Am 131 5 Phuttamonthon 134 Nakhon Pathom 134 Überblick 241 Ratchaburi 137 Chiang Mai 245 Inhalt 9 Bor Sang 290 Khon Kaen 412 San Kamphaeng 290 Udon Thani 418 Tambon Thep Sadet 291 Nong Khai 422 Lamphun 293 Loei 429 Ban Tha Kam 295 Nationalparks Pa-Sang 296 in der Gegend von Loei 433 Mae Sa Valley 297 Chiang Khan 436 Samoeng 300 Nakhon Phanom 438 Mae Wang 302 That Phanom 442 Doi-Inthanon-Nationalpark 303 Mukdahan 444 Doi-Khuntan-Nationalpark 304 Ubon Ratchathani 446 Khun-Chae-Nationalpark 305 Si Saket 452 Lampang 307 Surin 455 Hot 313 Prasat Khao Phanom Rung 460 Mae Sariang 318 Aranyaprathet 463 Khun Yuam 320 Nationalpark Nam Tok Mae Surin 322 Pai 322 Der Süden 468 Nationalpark Huai Nam Dang 330 7 Soppong 331 Mae Hong Son 333 Überblick 471 Mae Taeng 344 Hua Hin 475 Chiang Dao 348 Prachuap Khiri Khan 483 Fang 350 Ban Krud 486 Thaton 352 Bang Saphan 488 Chiang Rai 355 Ko Thalu 489 Mae Salong 363 Chumphon 491 Sop Ruak (Goldenes Dreieck) 368 Kraburi 500 Chiang Saen 371 Ranong 501 Chiang Khong 373 Khuraburi Mae Sai 375 und Ko Phra Thong 508 Phayao 379 Ko Kho Khao 510 Phrae 380 Chaiya 511 Nan 383 Surat Thani 513 Ko Samui 519 Ko Phangan 551 Der Nordosten 392 Ko Tao 573 6 Khao-Sok-Nationalpark 591 Transport zwischen den Inseln Überblick 395 im Golf von Thailand 594 Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) 399 Phuket 598 Phimai 406 Nachbarinseln von Phuket 652 Khao-Yai-Nationalpark 409 Strände nördlich von Phuket 659 10 Inhalt Phi Phi Islands 665 Notfälle 773 Phang Nga 670 Post, Telefon und Internet 774 Ko Yao Noi 673 Preise und Kosten 778 Ko Yao Yai 676 Reiserouten 778 Krabi 679 Rückerstattung Strände um Krabi 684 der Mehrwertsteuer 788 Umgebung von Krabi 693 Schwule und Lesben 788 Ko Lanta Yai 694 Sicherheit 790 Nakhon Si Thammarat 699 Sport und Erholung 796 Khao-Luang-Nationalpark 708 Tauchen 797 Banthat-Gebirge Unterkunft 800 (Thuek Khao Banthat) 709 Verhaltensregeln 803 Trang 711 Verkehrsmittel 810 Satun 720 Versicherungen 819 Pak Bara 722 Weiterreise Tarutao-Nationalpark 723 in die Nachbarländer 820 Ko Bulon Lae 728 Zeit und Kalender 828 Thale-Ban-Nationalpark 729 Hat Yai 730 Songkhla 736 9 Land und Natur 830 Sungai Golok 740 Geografie 832 Praktische Pflanzen- und Tierwelt 832 8 Reisetipps A–Z 742 Nationalparks 840 Klima 845
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