© Lonely Planet Publications SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST 325 Southern Andaman Coast Island hoppers, this is your dreamland. The south is the quieter half of the Andaman coast; even the tourist star of Ko Phi-Phi can’t rival the glam and crowds of Phuket. Instead, this region is the ideal choice for serious relaxation, outdoor fun and chummy nights at beachside bars. Just slowly putter from white-sand isle to white-sand isle. Social seekers will love the developed beauties such as Ko Phi-Phi and Ko Lanta where you can party into the wee hours and meet plenty of people on the beach, yet still find a peaceful strip of sand. And roads less travelled are just next door: head down through the lightly developed Trang islands to the even less visited Satun Province to find powder-white romantic beaches, outrageous snorkelling and plenty of spicy southern Thai culture. The entire region is made up of a spectacular undulating coastline pierced by sheer limestone formations, speckled with islands and cloaked in a carpet of verdant greenery. Besides the phenomenal diving and snorkelling, some of the best rock climbing in the world can be found in Krabi and Trang Provinces. All that limestone also means there are plenty of caves to explore; some house shrines while others require that you shimmy on your stomach to get through. You can also kayak to islands or through coastal mangroves. Much of this region shuts down in the April to November low season but even at that time you can still get to most places with determined effort. HIGHLIGHTS Zipping around in long-tail boats and oohing and aahing at monolithic rock for- mations and perfect beaches throughout the Trang islands ( p362 ) or Ko Tarutao Marine National Park ( p374 ) Railay Scaling a limestone cliff then recuperat- Ko Jum ing on the sparkling beaches and in the Ko Phi-Phi blissful jade waters of Railay ( p338 ) Trying to decide if Ko Phi-Phi ( p343 ) is more beautiful above or below water and Trang Islands giving it up for a tie Forgetting what day it is and realising that electricity is really just a frivolous modern convenience on Ko Jum ( p358 ) Ko Tarutao Snorkelling over healthy coral reefs by Marine National Park day and chilling at low-key reggae bars Ko Lipe by night on Ko Lipe ( p377 ) DRY SEASON: DECEMBER-MARCH WET SEASON: MAY-OCTOBER SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST 326 KRABI PROVINCE •• Krabi lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com KRABI PROVINCE •• Southern Andaman Coast 327 Climate 150 islands here and many are lined with 0 40 km SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST 0 20 miles The weather can be a big concern for travellers the sorts of beaches you thought existed only Bang Leang in this region. The Andaman coast receives on postcards. Not far from Krabi town, the SURAT THANI NAKHON SI Gulf THAMMARAT Tha Sala Wiang Sa of more rain than the southern gulf provinces, province’s small capital, the towering cliffs Hat Sa Bua 4015 Thailand cast their shadows on mainland beaches; 4035 Nam Dam Na Thap with May to October being the months of Bang Ba Phi Pun Khao Luang some feel as lost as a remote isle while oth- Thap Put National Park heaviest rainfall. During this time passenger Plai Laem boats to some islands, such as Ko Tarutao, ers have every modern amenity right at hand. 4110 41 Ao Phang-Nga 4035 Khao Luang Nakhon Chawang 1835m SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST are suspended. If you find the weather on the There’s really something for everyone in this Nakhon Si Ao Luk Wang Hin 4015 Thammarat province whether it’s partying and decadently Tharnbok Korannee Andaman coast unpleasant, you can easily Sala Michai National Park 4015 lounging on magnificent Ko Phi-Phi, living Ko Phing Nong Lumpo travel to the southwestern gulf coast, where Khao Phanom Khan Laem Sak you’re more likely to find the sun shining. out your lost-on-a-desert-island fantasies on Bencha Thung Yai 403 408 Ao Luk National Park quiet Ko Jum, or scrambling up some of the 4110 Top daytime temperatures average 32°C Khao Thong Don Tru Thung Song Wat Tham Seua Ron Phibun year-round (it’s always hot!), with high world’s top climbing routes at Railay. Ao Phang-Nga KRABI Ao Tha humidity during the wet season. It’s not all islands and beaches, however. Len Tha Len Hat Noppharat Ao Nang Krabi The region’s interior features tracts of primary Thara Railay 4 Lam Thap Khlong Hat Tham Kapang National Parks rainforest that are home to a plethora of tropi- Phra Nang Ao Nang Thom Thung Noi cal birds and animals, waterfalls, swimming Ban Laem Roi Chang 41 The most popular park along the Southern Ko Yao Yai Kruat Phan Wang 4018 Laem Ban Huay Falls holes and caves. Ko Si Boya Nan Khao Wat Khao Phra Andaman coast is the Ko Phi-Phi Marine To Phuket 403 The mainland has excellent links to the rest Pa Payom National Park ( p343 ), with its spectacular Ko Phi-Phi Thaleh Song Hong Don of Thailand year-round, and in high season, Huay Yot lagoons, beaches, impenetrable sea cliffs and Ko Jum Sai Khao rock climbing. Mu Ko Lanta Marine National the islands do too. Ban Hua 4 Hin Wang Ko Phi-Phi Ban Baw Khuan Khanun Thaleh Park ( p352 ) is found in the south of the in- Marine National Meuang Wiset Park Ko Phi-Phi Luang KRABI Leh Ban Sala Dan Ko Lanta 4123 Phattalung creasingly popular island of Ko Lanta and Noi 4 Ko Klang includes pristine islands, fine coral reefs and dit[Å Ko Lanta Yai Sikao TRANG 4 Ko Lanta Trang long sandy beaches. In the far south, border- pop 29,300 Pak Meng Khao Chong Mu Ko Lanta Nature Reserve When you arrive in Krabi you’ll first notice Marine National Hat Pak Meng Hot 403 PHATTALUNG ing Malaysia is the momentarily tranquil (but Springs becoming more popular) Ko Tarutao Marine that there are more guesthouses and travel Park Hat Chang 404 4124 Ko Ngai (Hai) Lang Kantang 4 agencies per square inch here than could pos- Ko Muk Yan Ta Khao National Park ( p374 ), which preserves a group Hat Chao Mai sibly be practical. Western restaurants are Hat Yao National Park Ton Te of jungle-covered islands, coral reefs and Ko Kradan Hat Chao Mai Falls 4049 ubiquitous, as are the gift shops that all sell Sam Yaen Ton Tok Pa Bon immaculate tropical beaches. Falls Ko Rok Nai Ko Libong Lesser known parks include tiny Hat the same ’ole woodcarvings, pashminas and Hat Samran Boriphat Ko Rok Nok Chao Pha Falls trinkets. Yet if you hang out a while you’ll Ban Laem Palian Tha Chao Mai National Park ( p363 ) near Trang, Falls Chamuang which contains coral-fringed islands; moun- see that there’s a very local scene going on in Ko Sukorn Yong tainous Khao Phanom Bencha National Park between the cracks. The day market on Th Hin Daeng Sata SONGKHLA Hin Muang Ko Phetra 4078 406 (see boxed text, p330 ) near Krabi town, Sukhon is filled with mysterious treats and Mu Ko Phetra Marine National Park SATUN To Hat Yai whose jungles are full of exotic animals and few foreign faces as are several restaurants (4km) rare birds; Satun Province’s Mu Ko Phetra scattered, almost invisibly, throughout the La-Ngu Ko Bulon Leh Pak Bara 416 Marine National Park (see boxed text, tourist centre. It’s a compact town that can Ko Khao p374 ) featuring islands and mangrove wild- win sceptics over with its quirks – and re- Yai life including dugongs and rare birds; and ally, can anyone pass through town without A N D A M A N 4184 S E A Chalung Tharnbok Korannee National Park ( p332 ), doing a double take on the giant cavemen Ko Tarutao Thale Ban near the town of Ao Luk, which preserves statues that hold up the traffic lights at the National Park Ko Rawi Ko Tarutao Satun sprawling areas of mangroves full of lime- Th Maharat/Vogue crossroads? Marine National Park stone caves and cave paintings. Because a dozen island and beach destina- Ko Butang Ko Adang Tammalang tions are serviced from this city, not many Ko Lipe people linger here, although it’s awfully cheap Pulau Langkawi Kuala Perlis to do so. Boats can be organised to the islands 7 KRABI PROVINCE of Ko Phi-Phi and Ko Lanta, and the beaches of Ao Nang and Railay. If you stay, travel agen- With mind-bogglingly beautiful karsts (lime- M A L A Y S I A stone rock formations) jutting up through cies can help you arrange wildlife-spotting Pulau tangled jungles, lining the crystalline beaches tours among the mangrove-dense riverside. Dayang and forming knobby islands floating in the green sea, it’s easy to understand why Krabi Orientation Strait of Malacca Province is the most popular region of the Th Utarakit is the main road into and out of Southern Andaman coast. There are over Krabi and most places of interest are on the SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST 328 KRABI PROVINCE •• Krabi lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels KRABI PROVINCE •• Krabi 329 soi (laneways) that branch off it. Ferries to ternational calls. Travel agencies in town provide overseas 0 200 m KRABI 0 0.1 miles Ko Phi-Phi, Ko Lanta and other islands leave calls at comparable rates. from Khlong Chilat (Krabi passenger pier) ACB D TOURIST INFORMATION Th Sanong To Khao Khanap Nam (200m); Krabi about 3km southwest of town, while long- 3 Hospital (1km); Krabi Royal Hotel tail boats to Railay depart from Khong Kha Krabi Tourist Association (%0 7562 2163/4; 15 (1.5km); Communications Authority INFORMATION of Thailand Office (1.5km); Krabi Maritime Park and Spa (1.7km); THAI (Chao Fa) pier on Th Khong Kha.