sign in sign up
<<
Home , A2 (theater), Bai sema, Bangkok Arena, Bangkok railway station, Bang Saen Beach, Ban Bat

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL ’S BEACHES & ISLANDS

BEACHES • WATER SPORTS

RAINFORESTS • TEMPLES

FESTIVALS • WILDLIFE

SCUBA DIVING • NATIONAL PARKS

MARKETS • RESTAURANTS • HOTELS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS MANAGING EDITOR Ghose SENIOR EDITORIAL MANAGER Savitha Kumar SENIOR DESIGN MANAGER Priyanka Thakur PROJECT DESIGNER Amisha Gupta EDITORS Smita Khanna Bajaj, Diya Kohli DESIGNER Shruti Bahl SENIOR CARTOGRAPHER Suresh Kumar Longtail tour boats at idyllic Hat CARTOGRAPHER Jasneet Arora Tham Phra Nang, DTP DESIGNERS Azeem Siddique, Rakesh Pal SENIOR PICTURE RESEARCH COORDINATOR Taiyaba Khatoon PICTURE RESEARCHER Sumita Khatwani CONTRIBUTORS Andrew Forbes, David Henley, Peter Holmshaw CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHER David Henley HOW TO USE THIS ILLUSTRATORS Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil GUIDE 6 Reproduced in by Colourscan Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China First American Edition, 2010 INTRODUCING 10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 THAILAND’S Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc., BEACHES AND 375 Hudson Street, New York 10014 ISLANDS Copyright © 2010, Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company DISCOVERING ALL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN THAILAND’S BEACHES A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, AND ISLANDS 10 ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. PUTTING THAILAND’S A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS BEACHES AND ISLANDS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ON THE MAP 12 ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-7566-6018-5 A PORTRAIT OF Front cover main image: Limestone stacks rising dramtically out of the THAILAND’S BEACHES sapphire waters of Ao Maya, Ko Phi Phi Leh AND ISLANDS 14             

      THAILAND’S BEACHES     AND ISLANDS          THROUGH THE    YEAR 34            

           

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. An elephant sharing the road with cars in South

View of islets rising from the calm lagoon surrounding Ao Maya, Ko Phi Phi Leh 50

EASTERN SEABOARD 96

UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 130

LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 156

UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 196 THE HISTORY Kayaking into limestone caves, OF THAILAND Than Bok Koranee National Park 38 SHOPPING IN THAILAND’S THAILAND’S BEACHES BEACHES AND AND ISLANDS 334 ISLANDS AREA BY AREA ENTERTAINMENT IN THAILAND’S BEACHES THAILAND’S BEACHES Nang talung AND ISLANDS 338 AND ISLANDS AT puppet A GLANCE 48 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES LOWER ANDAMAN AND SPECIAL COAST 240 INTERESTS 342 DEEP SOUTH 276 SURVIVAL GUIDE TRAVELERS’ NEEDS PRACTICAL INFORMATION 352 WHERE TO STAY 288 TRAVEL INFORMATION WHERE TO EAT 312 362

Diver exploring coral reefs rich in GENERAL INDEX 370 marine life, Ko Chang ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 380

PHRASE BOOK 382

Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan,

INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

DISCOVERING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 1011 PUTTING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS ON THE MAP 1213 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 1433 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 3437 THE 3845 10 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

DISCOVERING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS hailand’s long and diverse Upper Western Gulf Coast, Lower coastline has beautiful Western Gulf Coast, Lower Ttropical islands ranging Andaman Coast, Upper in size from Phuket, which is Andaman Coast, and the Deep nearly as large as Singapore, to Frangipani South. The city of Bangkok flower tiny palm-fringed outcrops. Even is the gateway to the coast and the most enthusiastic island hopper Southeast ’s largest and most will be spoiled for choice. The vibrant city. Below is an overview of coastline divides conveniently into six the highlights of the city and the sun- major regions – Eastern Seaboard, drenched beaches and islands.

city is to take a boat tour where visitors can enjoy the through its canals. From scenic beauty and wildlife floating markets to trendy along forest trails. The best- shopping malls, Bangkok is known islands in this region a shopper’s haven. After are (see pp110–13) dark, the city comes alive and Ko Chang (see pp118– with entertainment options 26). The more developed Ko ranging from traditional Samet, is a good weekend theaters and chic nightclubs trip from Bangkok, while to gourmet restaurants. Ko Chang’s serene beaches separate its hilly interior from some of the finest diving EASTERN SEABOARD waters in the gulf.

• Pattaya’s dual identity Majestic spires rising against the • ’s gems UPPER WESTERN sky, Phra Kaeo, Bangkok • Ko Samet’s sandy beaches GULF COAST • Diving off Ko Chang • Royal Phetchaburi BANGKOK Pattaya (see pp104–8) is • Historic Hua Hin notorious for its buzzing and • Cha-am’s beaches • Glittering temples risqué nightlife, especially in • Pristine national parks • Canals and colorful the south. However, the floating markets north attracts a family crowd Ancient Phetchaburi (see • Unparalleled shopping offering watersports, enter- pp134–8) has beautiful • Sizzling nightlife tainment, and a fine selection temples and boasts an of restaurants. ancient sweet-making Bangkok is truly a city of Chanthaburi (see pp114– tradition (see p138). Further contrasts. Ultramodern 15) is an old gem-mining south lies the famous Hua glass-and-steel skyscrapers town famous for its weekend Hin (see pp140–41), the dominate the cityscape, gem markets. Within easy oldest beach resort and a towering over 19th-century reach of the town are some favorite of the . Classical architecture. The less-visited reserves such Cha-am (see p139), just north ethnic diversity of as the Khao Kitchakut of Hua Hin, is an ideal (see p72) is offset by the National Park (see p116) weekend getaway from historic , with its grand and traditional Thai architecture. This in turn opens up into the finan- cial center at Silom Road, and the shopping malls and souvenir stalls of Phloen Chit and Sukhumvit (see p78) Roads. A truly memorable sight for visitors is the Grand and Wat Phra Kaeo (see pp56–61), housing a number of rare artifacts. A good way to get a feel of the Lively street with neon signs in South Pattaya

Artist’s impression of vendors hawking their wares at a colorful floating market in Bangkok DISCOVERING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 11

Bangkok. Also located in this region is the sprawling Kaeng Krachan National Park (see p139), and the beautiful limestone studded Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park (see pp144–5).

LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST

• Beaches of and Ko Phangan • Diving off Ko Tao • Azure waters of Ang Thong Marine National Park • Nakhon Si Thammarat’s

The islands of Ko Samui (see pp162–71) and Ko Ko or James Bond Island in Phangan (see pp172–7) are renowned for their palm- the country’s best dive sites. rapidly developing Trang fringed beaches. The latter is Just a little inland lie the lush (see p264) is a good base for also famous for its “full forests of Khao Sok National exploring the offshore moon” parties. The neigh- Park (see pp206–7) and the islands of Ko Muk and Ko boring island of Ko Tao (see lesser known Ao Phang Nga Kradan (see p266), where pp182–5), is very popular for National Park (see p217). visitors can find secluded its superb dive sites. beaches. Farther offshore is The beautiful Ang Thong the lovely Ko Tarutao Marine Marine National Park (see LOWER ANDAMAN COAST National Park (see pp270–75) pp180–81) is a verdant archi- which has some of the best pelago southwest of Ko • Sunbathing in Ko Phi Phi diving sites in the world. Samui. Farther south lies the • Rock climbing along the ancient cultural center of Krabi Coast Nakhon Si Thammarat (see • Trang’s offshore islands DEEP SOUTH pp192–5), to the • Ko Tarutao’s idyllic and revered Wat Phra Mahathat deserted beaches • Quaint Songkhla (see pp194–5). • Bird-watching at the Ko Phi Phi (see pp252–5) is Songkhla Lakes famous for its towering cliffs, • Languid Narathiwat UPPER ANDAMAN COAST horseshoe bays, and pristine beaches. The Krabi Coast The Deep South marks a • Phuket’s luxurious resorts (see pp248–51), by contrast, transition between the Thai- • Diving among the corals off is quiet and draws a young Buddhist and Malay-Muslim Surin and crowd who go rock climbing worlds. The ancient fishing • Trekking in national parks in the cliffs and caves around port of Songkhla (see pp280– • Exploring Phang Nga Bay Hat Rai Leh (see p248). The 81) retains its delightful period charm despite being The island of Phuket (see transformed by oil wealth. pp220–39) is a perfect Geographically, this region is holiday spot with its upscale dominated by the Songkhla resorts, gourmet restaurants, Lakes (see p282) that is shopping malls, and fine home to a spectacular white sand beaches. The variety of birds. nearby Phang Nga Bay (see Islam dominates in the pp212–17) is a stunning spot region south of Songkhla with imposing limestone in the small fishing villages, stacks rising out of the sea. casuarina-lined beaches, and Phuket is also a good base main towns. Pattani (see from which to visit the Surin p284), is home to Malay- Islands Marine National Park speaking Muslims, while (see pp204–5) and Similan Narathiwat (see p285) is char- Islands Marine National Park Sunbathers on the pristine beach acterized by ethnic diversity (see pp210–11), which have at Ao Lo Dalam, Ko Phi Phi. among its Muslims. 12 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

,BODIBOBCVSJ Putting Thailand’s Beaches #BO1POH - and Islands on the Map 3BUDIBCVSJ 9 Thailand is located at the center of mainland , between the Indian Ocean and the !

South China Sea. The country covers 198,000 sq miles . (513,000 sq km) and has a population of 65 million. The capital, Bangkok, is the largest city in Southeast - Asia and lies close to the geographical center of the ! country. It marks the dividing line between the northern plains and the beautiful beaches and 2 islands of the south. The stunning western coast is bordered by in the north and in the south, and overlooks the azure waters 1SBDIVBQ,IJSJ of the . The eastern coast is ,IBO fringed by the warm and shallow waters of the and shares international boundaries with Malaysia and . 5IBQ4BLBF

#BOH4BQIBO

"/%"."/ 

 4&" $IVNQIPO

 3BOPOH -BOH4VBO

,P$IBOH  ,P1IBZBN 0 km 100 ,P,BN  "OH5IPOH :BJ .BSJOF /BUJPOBM1BSL ,P4VSJO 0 miles 100 $IBJZB ,P3B ,IVSBCVSJ ,P1ISB $IJBX-BO 

5IPOH  -BLF 4VSBU5IBOJ 5BLVB1B 

,P4JNJMBO ,IBP-BL  8BOH4B 

1IBOH/HB 

1IBOH/HB

 #BZ ,SBCJ 

"P  /BOH ,IMPOH 1IVLFU 5IPN 3BXBJ  ,P1IJ 1IJ ,P  -BOUB 5SBOH ,P)BJ ,P,SBEBO ,P3PL/BJ ,P -JCPOH ,P4VLPSO

1BL#BSB

,P 5BSVUBP ,P3BXJ ,P"EBOH ,P#VUBOH ,P-JQF 1VMBV-BOHLBXJ

Satellite image of Thailand’s coastal regions PUTTING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS ON THE MAP 13

,BCJOCVSJ  /BLIPO "SBOZB 1BUIPN   1SBUIFU  4B #BOH #"/(,0,  ,BFX  1IBF

   4BNVU $IPOCVSJ  4POHLISBN 4SJ  3BDIB  1IFUDIBCVSJ

1BUUBZB 

$IBBN ,MBFOH  4BUUBIJQ $IBOUIBCVSJ )VB)JO 3BZPOH #BO1IF ,P4BNFU 1SBOCVSJ 5SBU (6-'0' -BFN/HPQ ,P$IBOH  5)"*-"/% View of a series of sheltered coves in Phuket ,P.BL

KEY ,P,VU ,IMPOH :BJ International airport Domestic airport #!-"/$)! Ferry service Expressway Major road Railway line International border

,P5BP

,P1IBOHBO SOUTHEAST ASIA

"(54!. ,P4BNVJ #().! "!.',!$%3(

).$)! -9!.-!2 4JDIPO ,!/3



4(!),!.$ /BLIPO4J 6)%4.!- #BOHLPL #!-"/$)! 5IBNNBSBU 0(),)00).%3 (VMGPG "OEBNBO4FB 5IBJMBOE 

 "25.%) 9 ! , ! 3 ) !  - 1IBUUIBMVOH 3).'!0/2% 4POHLIMB -BLFT ).$/.%3)!

 */%*"/ 4POHLIMB 0$&"/

)BU:BJ  1BUUBOJ

  4BUVO 4BJCVSJ   :BMB /BSBUIJXBU

 5BL#BJ  4VOHBJ ,P-PL

#FUPOH -!,!93)!

INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 15

A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

he outstanding natural beauty of Thailand’s beaches and islands with miles of white sand lapped by azure waters, lush Tnational parks, and teeming coral reefs, attract millions of visitors. The cultural heritage of the region reflected in the grand temples, , and vibrant festivals further magnifies its appeal.

Thailand’s coastline, located in a population is a diverse ethnic mix, fertile monsoon zone, extends for which although predominantly more than 2,000 miles (3,200 km) Thai, has a strong Chinese, and encompasses parts of the Burmese, Malay, Vietnamese, Indian and Pacific Oceans. It and Muslim influence. Bangkok, is set midway between and the nation’s capital and gateway China, the two great countries to the coast, is a pulsating that have influenced Southeast megacity of more than 12 Asia. Yet, this region has a million people, celebrated for Guard at Wat distinct identity that derives Phra Kaeo its palaces, temples, colorful from a number of factors. street markets, glittering malls, These include an uninterrupted and unrestrained nightlife. Tourism history of independence while at is the mainstay of the economy and some point all its neighbors were Ko Samui, Phuket, as well as smaller under Colonial rule, a rich Buddhist islands such as the Surin archipelago heritage, and a strong monarchical are world-famous holiday retreats. system. Coastal Thailand is politically Bangkok aside, there are no major linked to, but culturally distinct cities along the coast and the region from the rest of the country. The is overwhelmingly rural in aspect.

Bustling thoroughfare in the heart of colorful Pattaya

Monks relaxing under a tree on a pristine beach, 16 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Offices and shopping malls towering over the lake at , Bangkok

ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT weathered the 2008 global financial Rice, rubber, fishing, coconut farming, crisis quite well, suffering only a and tin mining have long been the temporary slowdown. Tourism mainstay of coastal Thailand’s continues to be the region’s largest economy. Over the past 25 years, foreign exchange earner, especially at however, this traditional sector has internationally renowned beach been outstripped by light industrial resorts such as Phuket, Krabi, Ko and technologically advanced Samui, Hua Hin, and Pattaya. manufacturing, especially along the The Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004 eastern coast. An offshore oil and had a terrible but relatively brief natural gas industry is also being impact on Thailand’s Andaman Coast developed in the Gulf of Thailand. causing great loss of life and property Regarded as one of Asia’s “” and also severely hitting the tourism economies since the mid-1980s, it industry. However, Thailand was self- suffered greatly due to financial sufficient enough to rebuild and speculation in the late 1990s. The bounce back from this calamity. country has recovered since, and has Today, with a tsunami warning system in place, the travel sector is well on its way to recovery.

ECOLOGY AND CONSERVATION Unfortunately, the environment in this region has suffered from overdevelopment in the last 50 years and forest cover has been severely depleted. Increasing awareness in recent times has led to new conservation measures by the government. Logging of forests is now illegal across Thailand, and emphasis is being placed on the preservation of rich and fragile such as forests and coral reefs. Threatened marine Rice-farming, a major occupation in the coastal region animals such as turtles, dolphins, and A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 17 are officially protected, as are endangered mammals such as , gibbons, and tapirs.

SOCIETY AND POLITICS In spite of the pressures of change, Thai society is quite cohesive. There is a growing and powerful middle class in Bangkok. Rural poverty is quite rare as the coastal regions, rich in natural resources, are among the most prosperous in the country, with a high standard of living. Thai women are estimated to control 62 percent of all small and medium businesses nationwide. The traditional family Preparing for a bout at a Thai kickboxing match structures, however, have become increasingly fragmented owing to flourishes. The literary tradition is modernization and urbanization. confined to the classics, the most The Buddhist clergy and the King important being the (see are the most venerated figures p59), an ancient moral epic. This tale throughout the country. In contrast, provides the narrative content for politicians are less respected, and are many performing arts, including the in fact, criticized by the liberal Thai stylized khon and lakhon (see pp26– press. Prime Minister Thaksin 7). To this tradition, the south has Shinawatra was overthrown in a added its own style of Islamic and bloodless coup in 2006. Today, the Malay-influenced dance, music, and country is administered by a shadow puppetry (see p191). Democrat coalition led by Prime Thailand’s most notable literary Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva. However, figure, the 19th-century poet Sunthorn fractured political rivalries have led to Phu, was inspired by the beauty of violent demonstrations against the and based his existing government and although poetry in this region. On the sports they have been quelled, front, muay thai (Thai the political situation kickboxing) draws big remains uneasy. crowds. Other traditional pastimes range from CULTURE AND THE ARTS takraw (kick-volleyball) Southern Thailand’s to kite flying. Many traditional culture and colorful festivals are also arts are greatly influenced celebrated with fanfare. by Whatever the activity, (see pp24–5). The best Thais believe that life showcase is the wat should comprise sanuk (temple), distinguished (fun) and sahai (well- by sweeping, multitiered being) and visitors roofs, countless Buddha should embrace this images, detailed murals, spirit to get the most Ceremonial dragon steps leading and varied architectural to Big Buddha statue, Ko Samui from their stay. 18 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Landscape and Wildlife Thailand stretches from south of the Tropic of Cancer to 620 miles (1,000 km) north of the equator; its tropical climate is affected by two monsoons. Oriental Varied topography and a gentle climate White-eye have led to a rich diversity of flora and fauna. Limestone hills in the north are clad in dense tropical forest. Open forest is more usual in the northeast and central plains while the south and Gulf have superb coastlines and pockets of rain forest. Many habitats are threatened by industry and tourism; deforestation is rife, and some animal species face extinction. As a result, many national parks have been established. The largest among these Coconut palms on the island of is Kaeng Krachan National Park (see p139). Ko Samui in the Gulf of Thailand

MONTANE TROPICAL FOREST OPEN FOREST This type of forest is made up mostly of broad- The most common trees in the open forest, leaf evergreens and some deciduous trees also called savanna forest, are dipterocarps, such as laurel, oak, and chestnut. Mosses, a family of trees native to Southeast ferns, and epiphytic orchids growing Asia. The ground around them is on other plants, are common. often carpeted by coarse scrub.

Atlas moths are Sambar, Thailand’s the world’s largest largest deer, can be seen species. The female in the central plains is larger than the male. and in the northeast.

Sun bear, also known as honey bear or dog bear, Pig-tailed macaques are is the smallest and most found in Southeast Asia. They agile of all bear species. eat mainly fruit, storing it in their cheek pouches.

Palm civets are nocturnal omnivores Wild boars have been found in tropical forests heavily hunted in the and occasionally near past. They feed human settlements. mainly on grass. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 19

THAI FLOWERS The mallow flower, The diversity of Thailand’s flowers reflects a relative of the its range of natural habitats. Most famous hibiscus, is com- are its orchids; there are some 1,300 differ- mon throughout ent varieties. Unfortunately, Southeast Asia. illegal picking has made them rare in the wild. Other flowers are used as spices Mountain pitchers are and for medicinal purposes. insectivorous plants. Their prey falls into the Lotus lilies’ “pitcher” where the plant’s seed pods juices slowly dissolve it. and stems are edible. Orchids come mainly Other lilies from northern are grown for Thailand; they are decoration. prized for their beauty.

WETLANDS COASTAL FOREST Freshwater swamp forests have been The seeds of trees such as pines and Indian decimated by farming, although some survive almond are transported by sea currents; thus in the south. River basins and man-made ribbons of coastal forest are found all over lakes and ponds can be Southeast Asia. Thailand’s coastal forests are found all over Thailand. now threatened by farming and tourism.

Dusky leaf monkeys are Green turtles are the only found in the Thai-Malay herbivorous sea turtles. peninsula. Three other They feed on sea grass and species of leaf monkey also algae and are nocturnal. live in Thailand.

Painted storks migrate to Thailand’s Lizards are common in swamps to breed. During this island forests. Most eat time the pigment in their insects, although some face turns pink. species also eat mice and small birds.

Purple swamp hens are common. Crested wood Long-toed feet allow partridges are found them to walk on float- in areas of coastal, ing vegetation. lowland forest. 20 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Coral Reef Ecosystems Thailand’s many coral reefs support a complex biodiversity with more than 1,000 species of , 30 types of sea snake, crustaceans, invertebrates, millions of microscopic organisms, and birds. With enough warm water and sunlight, these flourishing and fragile ecosystems are made up of at least 300 different species of coral. Unfortunately, the reefs are under threat from industrial and human pollution, dynamite fishing, and irresponsible tourist activities. Several government and private initiatives are now attempting to protect and conserve this marine habitat. Many types of sea birds gather around coral reefs to feed on the Colorful clown fish abundant fish life. The great come in over 20 egret, a large wading bird, varieties and live feeds by stabbing small fish protected amid with its razor-sharp bill. poisonous sea ane- mones. They stay in small groups and share a symbiotic relationship with their predatory host.

A TYPICAL REEF Thailand’s coral reefs are found in a variety of formations. The fringing reef develops off the coastline and slopes into the sea. The reef flat curves away from the beach, rises to a crest, then drops to the seabed in a sharp incline or reef slope.

Shoals of colorful fish swarm in and around the coral reefs. Smaller fish derive many benefits from this Leopard sharks, also known as zebra sharks, are usually grouping, including some protection found around sandy bays. With cylindrical bodies and against predators and greater success elongated tail fins, leopard sharks are fast swimmers in mating. Swimming in shoals also who mostly stay at the bottom of the reef. These docile makes foraging more efficient. nocturnal creatures feed on mollusks and crustaceans. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 21

Five species of sea turtle are found in Thai waters, including olive ridleys, green turtles, hawksbills, loggerheads, and leatherbacks. Unfortunately, all of these are listed as , and sightings even in the nesting season – between November and February – have become increasingly rare. Octopuses are intelligent and skilled hunters who defend themselves against Reef flat attack by hiding, changing their body Cabbage patch corals share color, and ejecting ink. They can also space on the reefs with a quickly squeeze into narrow gaps in Reef crest number of species including the reef by means of their flexible stagshorn, columna, sea structure, which lacks any skeleton. anemones, and starfish.

The squid is an elusive decapod that hunts and hides in gaps within the coral. Like the octopus, it changes its color to blend with the surroundings.

Manta ray found in tropical waters is the largest of the rays Reef slope and can grow up to 25 ft (8 m).

CORAL: THE REEF’S BUILDING BLOCK Starfish Coral is made of the skeletons of polyps, small animals related to sea anemones and jellyfish. Polyps are unusual in that they build their skeleton on the outside of their body. As they divide, the coral colony gradually builds up. There may be as many as 200 different species of coral in a reef, divided into hard corals such as brain coral, and colorful soft corals, which have no stony outer skeleton.

Giant hermit crabs are soft- bodied crustaceans. They protect their bodies by living and moving around the seabed in the empty shells Hard, textured brain coral Soft coral of mollusks such as whelks. 22 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Diving and Snorkeling Thailand’s clear waters and rich marine life draw diving enthusiasts from all over the world. All three of the country’s major coastal regions – the Andaman Coast, the Western Gulf Coast, and the area around Diving Ko Chang (see pp118–26) on the Eastern flippers Seaboard – are popular diving and snorkeling destinations. The best and most advanced diving is available on the Andaman Coast, but this region is generally inaccessible during the southwest monsoon from June to September. Along the east coast, diving is a year-long activity. Over 50 dive schools operate around Thailand offering courses for all levels. Most offer PADI (Professional Association of Waterproof dive bags and other Diving Instructors) certification to enrolled members. equipment on sale, Ko Chang

Boats take divers back and forth from the jumping-off points or dive areas. It is possible to hire them locally at Wet suits are most dive-oriented beaches, but worn by divers visitors must ensure that the operators to protect against are PADI licensed. These boats should the cold or other be specially fitted for diving with underwater enough space for diving gear. hazards.

Coral reefs swarm with a wide variety of brightly tropical fish.

Scuba divers must check the diving equipment carefully as any malfunction can be dangerous – even fatal. Divers should ensure that the oxygen tank is full and that the fins are The dive instructor is responsible for in good condition. It planning the dive and training groups is also useful to learn according to the difficulty level. He basic sign language usually explains the diving location, to enable underwater depth, currents, timing, and any communication. hazards before setting off on the dive. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 23

"OEBNBO 4FB

(VMGPG 5IBJMBOE

4(!),!.$

The shallow waters above coral reefs are generally clear and teeming with small fish and crustaceans. These stretches near the shore are great for snorkeling. Visitors uncomfortable with heavy equipment and deep dives can enjoy the underwater landscape with just a snorkeling mask. TOP TEN DIVE SITES 1 Pinnacle (see p182) DIVING AT A 2 Hin Bai (see p174) 3 Ko Chang (see pp118–26) Thailand’s coral reefs 4 Richelieu Rock (see p205) offer unparalleled 5 Surin Islands (see pp204–5) opportunities for 6 snorkeling and scuba Similan Islands (see pp210–11) diving. It is essential to 7 Ko Phi Phi (see pp252–5) hire the best equip- 8 Ko Rok (see p263) ment available, as 9 Hin Daeng (see p263) diving in the coral 0 Hin Muang (see p263) reefs can be hazardous for the unprepared. DIVING TIPS Divers should also be Never go diving if feeling sick or careful not to damage even a little under the weather. the corals in any way. Carry a safety balloon while ascending or diving in shallow waters. It is also a useful signaling device for divers in open waters. Hire or buy equipment only from certified places. Coral heads shelter a Dive with a companion and also host of tiny marine have back up and first aid on the creatures that are important to the reef boat at the surface. building process. Look for PADI-certified trainers and courses. Beginners should head for the Sea anemones are safer Gulf of Thailand, and leave colorful creatures that the deeper Andaman Sea for attach themselves to experienced divers. the coral and feed on fish and crustaceans.

Snorkeling for beginners is safer and more enjoyable in groups where a guide can identify the marine life forms. It is also possible to undertake a PADI snorkeling course. First-timers should avoid going out alone unless accompanied by an experienced diver with Instructor checking equipment proper qualifications and prior to a dive, Ko Phi Phi familiarity with the site. 24 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Thai Buddhism

At least 90 percent of Thais practice Rama IX (b.1927), Theravada Buddhism. It was first brought like other Thai to the region from India around the 3rd rulers, spent century BC and is based on the ancient time as a monk. Pali canon of Buddha’s teachings, the For Thais, this act reinforces the Tripitaka. However, Thai practice incor- notion that porates many Hindu, Tantric, and Buddhism and Monk in deep Mahayana Buddhist influences. The the monarchy are meditation worship of Buddha images, for exam- unified powers. ple, is a Mahayana Buddhist practice. Thais are of the view that Buddhism is one of the three forces Siddhartha sets out to that gives their kingdom its strength; the other attain enlightenment. two being monarchy and nationhood. Religious rituals color daily life, especially in the form of merit-making, the performance of good deeds as mentioned in the Buddhist doctrine.

Most Thai males are ordained as monks in adolescence, a major rite of passage. They usually spend at least a few months as monks, earning merit for themselves and their families. Few Thai women become nuns.

Applying leaf to Buddha images is a popular act of STORY OF THE BUDDHA merit-making. Books The Buddha was born Prince of gold leaf can be Siddhartha Gautama in India in the readily purchased at 6th century BC. He gave up his riches temples, and the thin to seek Enlightenment, and later taught leaves are applied in the way to or perfect peace. profusion to Buddha Statues of the Buddha and murals statues, wat deco- depicting his previous lives, as told in ration, and murals. the jataka stories, abound in Thailand.

Buddhism infuses family life in Thailand. Senior monks are asked by the family to give blessings at child- naming ceremonies, weddings, to a new house or car, or simply after a donation to the wat has been made. Children are taught the simple moral codes of Buddhism from an early age. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 25

Walking meditation is practised by most monks. The most senior monk leads the line walking around the temple clock- wise. Meditation on the nature of existence is a major way in which Buddhists progress toward enlightenment – Buddha literally means One who is Enlightened.

Vishnu, with four arms, is part of the Hindu holy trinity. Thai folding book painting, c.1900

A garland of jasmine symbolizes the beauty of the Buddha’s teachings and, as it perishes, the impermanence of all life. Vendors offer garlands of jasmine to be hung in cars and shrines. Devas (heavenly beings) bear Prince Siddhartha through air.

Ritualistic tattooing is an ancient Hindu-Buddhist custom. Such tattoos are believed to act as powerful tal- ismans against negative forces. Inscriptions in the ancient Pali script ISLAM Thailand’s second is Islam. Thai-speaking Muslims are well integrated into Thai society, tracing their origins to a variety of ancestries – Arab, Persian, South Asian, and Chinese – all of whom are followers of the moderate Sunni Hanafi school. The only exception is in the far southern provinces of Satun (see p268), Yala, Pattani (see p284), and Narathiwat (see p285), where most Muslims speak Malay and remain outside the main- stream. They are a rural people, generally working as farmers or by catching fish, studying their faith in pondok (religious schools), Buddhist monks collect alms and traveling on hajj () from lay people every morning. to Mecca. However, they are not Thais believe that this is a way overly rigorous or fundamentalist to make merit and improve and although women cover their Thai Muslim women their karma (destiny) in this life heads, they go unveiled. covering their heads as well as the next. 26 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Thai Theater and Music The two principal forms of classical Thai are khon and lakhon. Khon was first performed in the royal court in the 15th century, with story lines taken from the Ramakien (see p59). The more graceful lakhon, which also features elements from the jataka tales, is of two kinds – lakhon nai (inside lakhon) and lakhon nok (outside Finger extensions, emphasizing lakhon). Khon and lakhon involve slow, Classical the graceful curves of a dancer’s Thai highly stylized, angular dance movements hands, are seen in lakhon per- dancer set to the music of a piphat mon ensemble. formances and “nail dances”.

Natural-looking makeup enhances the features of characters who do not wear masks.

Students learn by imitating their teacher. Training begins at an early age (when limbs are still supple) and includes a sequence of moves known as mae bot (mastery of dancing).

A KHON PERFORMANCE In khon drama, demons and monkeys wear masks, while human heroes and celestial beings Khon and lakhon renditions are often staged sport crowns. As the story is told mainly through at outdoor shrines. Dancers are hired to gestures, khon can be enjoyed by non-Thais perform to the resident god by supplicants too. Visitors are most likely to see performances whose wishes have been granted. at restaurants catering to visitors.

INSTRUMENTS OF CLASSICAL THAI MUSIC Ranat (xylophone) Thailand’s classical music originated in the Sukhothai era (see p40). The basic melody is set by the composer, but, as no notation is used, each musician varies the tune and adopts the character of the instru- ment. A piphat (tuned percussion ensemble) accom- panies theater performances and boxing matches (see p283). The keys of a flat xylophone A mahori ensemble includes produce a different tone from A mahori ensemble shown in a mural stringed instruments. those of a curved one. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 27

Likay, by far the most popular type of dance- drama, is a satirical form of khon and lakhon. The actors wear gaudy and the plot derives from ancient tales laced with improvized jokes and puns. Khon and lakhon troupes, employed by the royal palace until the early Khon masks, adorned with gold and jewelry, are 20th century, are now based at the treated as sacred, with supernatural powers. (see p353).

This mural at (see p68), depicts a scene from a khon performance. In it, Erawan, the elephant mount of , descends from heaven.

Hun krabok, are Lavish costumes, made of rodded marionettes, heavy brocade and adorned operated by hidden threads with jewelry, are modeled on pulled from under the cos- traditional court garments. tumes. Hun krabok puppets are very rare today.

Khong wong lek (small gong circle) Chake (crocodile zither)

The hollowed hardwood body is inlaid with ivory.

The strings Small gongs are of a chake are struck by the player plucked. It accompa- A piphat mon ensemble, including to give the tune’s nies fiddles and flutes a vertical gong circle, is played at basic melody. in a string ensemble. funerals because of its slow music. 28 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Vernacular Architecture Coastal Thailand’s architecture is very diverse. Traditionally, rural Thai, Cambodian, and Malay houses are built on stilts and their grandeur and size reflect the wealth and status of the occupying family. Thailand’s location along important trade routes brought seafaring people such as Chinese and Portuguese merchants to this region. They built houses that differed from indigenous Thai and Malay styles and, over time, these evolved into Sino-Portuguese shophouses and mansions (see pp226–7). The best examples of this type of architecture can be found in Phuket town. Village on stilts, province

TRADITIONAL THAI HOUSES In the humid coastal regions, a large, centrally situated veranda, which also acts as an outdoor living area, is the dominant feature of many traditional houses. Some houses have covered verandas running alongside the main structure. In an extended family setup, a communal veranda will have several houses clustered around it. Traditionally, domestic animals were sheltered beneath the houses, and this practice still continues in some villages.

Paneled

Central veranda Gate

Wood-paneled gable

Ngao

Gabled roofs of southern Thai houses are often decorated with curved ornaments called ngaos (hooks).

SINO-PORTUGUESE SHOPHOUSES Characteristic Known as tiem chu (row houses) in , shophouses gabled roof have a unique architectural style. The ground floor facing the Wooden street is a commercial space with living quarters and a court- window frame yard further inside. A partially covered veranda or five-foot way connects the shophouses and protects pedestrians from the rain and sun.

Second floor

Five-foot way forming Shophouses are low-rise buildings a sheltered that can extend up to three stories passage in crowded areas. These quaint structures usually have tiled roofs and brightly colored façades. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 29

SINO-PORTUGUESE MANSIONS These grand mansions, also known as ang mor lau (red hair buildings), were built in the early 20th century and were Gold painted regarded as status symbols for nouveau riche merchants and stucco traders. Greco-Roman pilasters and columns were added to embellish the existing structures. At the time these mansions must have seemed showy, but today, after restoration, they reflect a distinct old-world charm. Tiled roof

Grand exterior of a mansion

Elaborate pillars and pediments are used to decorate Phuket’s Western-style mansions blending aspects of Classical and Oriental architectural design.

TRADITIONAL MALAY HOUSES Found mainly in the Deep South, these houses are raised and centered around a main living room or covered by a pitched roof with gables to protect them from high winds. Shuttered windows, a suspended veranda in front, and an enclosed one at the back, enable ventilation and keep the house cool. The kitchen is usually built separately at the back of the house.

Pitched roof Serambi gantung, with gables (hanging veranda)

The interior is carefully designed keeping the privacy of its inhabitants in mind, and there are many carved openings, slatted panels, and windows to keep it cool.

Stilts to protect the house from floods Stairs leading to the house

SPIRIT HOUSES Traditionally constructed within the grounds of many Thai , these houses shelter the guardian spirit of the property, and are usually elevated on a pole. Spirit houses come in a variety of styles that range from simple replicas of the homes to which they belong, to elaborate models of religious buildings. Erected to placate the spirits of the land, usually before the construction of the main building begins, they are worshiped daily with incense, flowers, and food. These miniature temples are placed in the grounds after consultation with a priest and the style depends upon the spirit that will inhabit it. Built out of wood or concrete, Spirit house in the garden of Jim the spirit house can range in size from a small dollhouse to Thompson’s House, Bangkok a big walk-in space. 30 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Arts and Crafts While the center of arts and handicrafts production in Thailand lies in and around in the north, the coastal regions also have distinct art forms. Basket-making in Pattani, Benjarongware in Samut Songkhram, stoneware in , and woodcarving, are all part of the traditional Wooden figurine arts and crafts of coastal Thailand. The gemstones of Chanthaburi (see pp114–15) and pewterware and cultured pearls of Phuket (see p239) are especially highly coveted. Nang talung (see p191) of Nakhon, among the most authentic of southern crafts, are a popular art form. The town is Rattan vines being made into also the best producer of nielloware in the country. baskets and furniture

SHADOW PUPPETS Among the most ancient art and theater forms in South Asia, shadow puppets date back to 400 BC, but are still very popular in the Nakhon province. Their most opulent version – nang yai – performed with the help of life-sized puppets, depicts stories from the Ramakien. These puppets are maneuvered by a puppet master, accom- panied by a band of musicians.

Nang talung puppet

Niello, a black metallic alloy, is used as an inlay on engraved metal. Nielloware, which belongs to the Ayutthaya period (see pp40–41), usually features intricate patterns on items such as rings, bowls, knife handles, and trays. Nang talung theater troupes usually consist of five to 10 puppeteers and musicians.

Locally sourced Benjarongware, granite is used to a five-colored make finely ceramic ware, has handcrafted kitchen long been popular tools such as pestles at the royal court and mortars, as well and celebrated as small figures of throughout the king- animals. The most dom. Although made in renowned producer several southern localities, of stoneware is the the best-known producer is Ban fishing village of Ang Benjarong (Benjarong Village) in Sila in Chonburi . province. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 31

Batik is a method of dyeing cloth in which portions are covered with wax and dipped in color to create patterns. Made into sarongs, tablecloths, mats, curtains, and picture frames, its patterns feature palms, fish, dolphins, and Pearl culture has emerged as a flowers. Batik sarongs are popular in the Deep South. profitable business, making pearls an important export product. Fine, handmade silver and gold jewelry, Nang talung featuring locally produced pearls, is puppets, carved sold in the many bazaars and from buffalo skin. malls of Phuket.

Yellow and blue sapphire ring

Orchid jewelry A selection of sapphires

Gemstones are usually bought and sold uncut and later fashioned into exquisite rings and pendants set in gold. Today, most gems come from across the Cambodian border in Pailin, but Si Chan Road in Chanthaburi remains the main gem market area in southern Thailand.

Nai nag (puppet master)

Pewter is an easily worked metal alloy of tin, with small quantities of copper and antimony that act as hardeners. Mostly manufactured in Phuket, it is used to Basketry and rattan work products are mostly made make decorative objects in Pattani, which has a predominantly Malay- such as statuettes and Muslim population. These materials are woven into figurines, goblets, cups, geometric designs, typical of the non-representational plates, and pendants. art forms associated with Islam. 32 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

Best Beaches Blessed with clean, white sands and clear, blue waters, Thailand is home to some of the most stunning beaches in the world. These are also popular destinations for vacationers seeking active outdoor recreation and exciting watersports. Visitors expecting the luxuries of upscale resorts and spas will not Sea surfing be disappointed either. Thailand has in Phuket holiday offers for every kind of traveler. Visitors can head to the secluded coves of Ko Phangan and Ko Chang, partake in the glitter- ing nightlife at the lively, but crowded beaches of Phuket and Ko Samui, go diving and snorkeling in the waters surrounding Ko Tao, or spend some family Visitors enjoying a game of time at the royals’ favorite resort – Hat Hua Hin. volleyball on the beach at Ko Lipe

Ao Yai, or Big Bay (see p200), Ko Chang, has a 2-mile (3-km) stretch of beach, with a selection of -9!.-!2 beach bungalows and restaurants.

Hat Kata Yai (see p228), $IVNQIPO Phuket, may be quiet but it has the advantage of being close to Hat , and its exciting nightlife. 3BOPOH A great place for the young and adventurous, Hat Kata Yai is also excellent for windsurfing.

4VSBU5IBOJ

,SBCJ 1IVLFU

Hat Tham Phra Nang (see p249), Krabi, is perhaps the loveliest beach "OEBNBO in Thailand with beautiful offshore coral reefs, coconut groves, and 4FB craggy limestone outcrops. Tham Phra Nang and Sa Phra Nang, popular sights located on the beach, are also worth a visit.

0 km 100

0 miles 100

Ao Kantiang (see p262), Ko Lanta, near the southwestern tip of the island, is backed by dense jungle-covered hills. Home to the exclusive Pimalai Resort and Spa (see p309), the beach here is also known for the beautiful coral reefs at its northern end. Ao Kantiang is a popular spot for snorkeling and swimming. A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 33

"!.'+/+

1IFUDIBCVSJ 1BUUBZB

$IBOUIBCVSJ (VMGPG 5IBJMBOE 5SBU Hat Khlong Phrao (see p122), Hat Sai Kaew (see p112), Ko Samet, also known as Ko Chang, is isolated by the Diamond Beach, is among the busiest beaches on rocky cape of Laem Chaichet. the island. A range of exciting watersports There are some breathtaking ,IMPOH:BJ such as snorkeling and jet-skiing is on offer, views across the bay. along with a vibrant nightlife.

Hat Hua Hin (see p140), Hua Hin, was made popular by the Thai royal family in the early 20th century. The best stretch of beach is opposite the famous Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and Villas (see p299). Visitors can enjoy pony rides or a round of golf, as well as indulge in the usual watersports.

Hat Sai Ri (see p182), Ko Tao, is the longest stretch of beach on the island. This long curve of crisp, white sand is ideal for diving and snorkeling and popular throughout the year. There are some good restaurants as well as shops selling diving equipment lining the beach. )BU:BJ

-!,!93)!

Ao Thong Nai Pan (see p175), Ko Phangan, is for those travelers who can brave the 8-mile (13-km) long dirt track to reach its beautiful beaches. Lack of facilities ensure the bay’s continued isolation. 34 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR he traditional Thai year the rains or a related agricultural revolves around the two event, such as the beginning of Tmonsoons – southwest the rice-planting season. The and northeast – which dictate three main seasons are rainy, the year’s farming activities and cool, and hot. Farmers plant the religious calendar. Most fes- rice-seedlings at the start of the Harvesting the tivals are Buddhist, and often rice crop rainy season. The crop is dried observed on significant days of during the cool, dry season and the lunar cycle, especially during full harvested before it gets too hot. moon. Festivals may also mark a During most weeks a festival is held seasonal change, such as the end of somewhere in the country.

MARCH defeat the Burmese invaders HOT SEASON in 1785 (see p234). ASEAN Barred Ground Dove Trang Food Festival (Mar High temperatures combined Fair (1st week), Yala. Dove- 30–Apr 3), Trang. Held at with high humidity make this singing contest that attracts Somdet Phra Srinakharin an uncomfortable time inland, bird lovers from as far away Park to promote the local although cooling sea breezes as Cambodia, Malaysia, cuisine. A variety of delicious help bring the temperature Singapore, and . food, including southern down nearer the shore. With Thao Thep Kasatri and Thao Thai, Chinese, and seafood is fields fallow and rivers run- Si Sunthorn Festival (Mar 13), available, along with local ning low, the landscape Phuket. This festival is held Trang specialities. appears dull. Considering the annually to commemorate heat during this time, it is not the two courageous heroines APRIL surprising that Thailand’s tra- of Phuket – Khun Chan and ditional New Year, Songkran, Khun Muk – who had rallied Chakri Day (Apr 6), Bangkok, is celebrated with water. the people of the island to nationwide. Commemorates founding of the ruling Chakri by (r.1782– 1809). The Royal Pantheon, at Wat Phra Kaeo, Bangkok, which displays statues of former kings, is open to the public on this day only. Songkran (Apr 13–15), nationwide. Traditional Thai New Year, celebrated with the pouring of fragrant water on revered Buddha images and a great deal of boisterous fun, which includes throwing water over all and sundry. Wan Lai Festival (mid-Apr), Pattaya. The Pattaya Wan Lai, or Water-Flowing Festival, is generally held a week after the Songkran celebrations. It features floral floats, colorful parades, and plenty of water-throwing. Pak Lat Festival (mid-Apr), Phra Pradaeng. The ethnic hold their New Year celebrations a week after Songkran. The emphasis is on entertainment, with a Miss Songkran procession, and A religious procession during Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year traditional Mon games. THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 35

Sunshine Chart AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Even during the rainy Hours season, most days have 10 some sunshine. The tropical sun can be 8 very fierce, and ade- quate precautions 6 against sunburn and 4 sunstroke should be taken. Sunscreen, 2 a sun hat, and sun- glasses are highly rec- 0 FebJanMar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec ommended. Drinking plenty of water reduces the risk of dehydration.

MAY anniversary of the Buddha’s first sermon. Coronation Day (May 5), Khao Pansa (Jul full moon), Bangkok, nationwide. This nationwide. Marks the start ceremony marks the crown- of the Buddhist Rains ing of Rama IX (b.1927). Retreat. Monks remain in Visakha Bucha (May full temples to devote themselves moon), nationwide. Most to study and meditation. important date on the . Celebrates AUGUST the birth, enlightenment, and passing of the Buddha. Rambutan and Thai Fruit Sermons and candle-lit Festival (early Aug), Surat processions at temples. Thani. Annual rambutan fair World Durian Festival held to celebrate the local (mid-May for 2 weeks), fruit produce. Chanthaburi. Highlights Monks chanting in front of golden Her Majesty the Queen’s include fruit-decorated floats Buddha on Asanha Bucha day Birthday (Aug 12), and beauty queens. nationwide. Buildings and Day (Jun 26), streets are lavishly decorated Rayong. Festival in honor of in honor of Queen ’s RAINY SEASON Thailand’s greatest poet, birthday. Bangkok is elabo- Sunthorn Phu (see p111). rately decorated, especially The rural scene comes alive Held at Sunthorn Phu along with the advent of the rains, Monument, Klaeng District. and the . which soften the soil, ready- King’s Cup and Princess’ Cup ing it for plowing. Once the JULY Boat Races (variable), rice has been planted, there Chumphon. Beautifully deco- is a lull in farming activity Asanha Bucha (Jul full moon), rated boats from all over the which coincides with the nationwide. Second of the south compete at Nong Yai, annual three-month Buddhist year’s three major Buddhist Na Cha-ang, and Rains Retreat (also referred festivals. Commemorates the other places. to as Buddhist Lent). It is a period when young men tra- ditionally enter monkhood for a brief period. It is a good time to observe the ordination ceremonies held throughout Thailand – a joyous blend of festivities accompanied by deep religious feelings.

JUNE

Hua Hin Jazz Festival (variable), Hua Hin. Jazz festival featuring large num- bers of Thai and international performers, generally held by the seaside at Hua Hin. Lively performance by a jazz group during the Hua Hin Jazz Festival 36 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL (BANGKOK) Rainfall Chart Thailand’s rainfall is MM Inches not evenly distributed. 300 12 The southern penin- sula has the highest, 240 9 some 95 inches

180 (240 cm) annually; 6 the north and central 120 regions receive 51 inches (130 cm). 3 60 In many places, tor- rential rain falls 0 0 almost daily during FebJanMar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec the rainy season, from June to September.

SEPTEMBER OCTOBER

Festival of the 10th Lunar Traditional Boat Procession Month (1st waning moon – and Races (variable), 15th waning moon), Nakhon Chumphon. Elaborately dec- Si Thammarat. Deceased orated boats carrying Buddha sinners are permitted to rise images from local temples and meet their relatives, but progress along the Lang Suan must return to the under- River in a local ceremony world before the 15th day. dating back to the reign of There is merrymaking at Rama III (r.1824–51). temples on the 15th day, Ok Phansa (Oct full moon), accompanied by a magnifi- nationwide. Celebration of cent procession along the the Buddha’s reappearance central Ratchadamnoen Road. on earth after a season spent Trang Pork Festival (variable), preaching in heaven. Marks Trang. A celebration of the end of the Buddhist Trang’s special roast pork Dancers in Isaan dress perform Rains Retreat. recipe featuring pork fer- during the festival of Ok Phansa Chak Phra Festival (Oct full mented with herbs and spit- moon), . Local roasted on a special grill. opportunity to experience southern festival celebrating Trang Moon Festival (late the mixed Thai-Malay culture the end of the Rains Retreat. Sep/early Oct full moon), of the Deep South. Illuminated images of the Trang. The ethnic Chinese of Vegetarian Festival (late Sep/ Buddha are erected all over Thung Yao County, Palian early Oct), (see p227) Phuket, town, splendidly adorned District, commemorate the Trang. Self-mortification ritu- floats are pulled by hand, and victory of the Chinese Ming als accompanied by strict Buddha images are carried on Dynasty over the mighty abstinence from meat. One a beautifully decorated barge Mongols in 1368. of the most revered, spectac- across the river. Boat racing Narathiwat Fair (last week of ular, and unusual festivals in and traditional games. Sep), Narathiwat. A good southern Thailand.

COOL SEASON

After the rains, the skies are clear and the air cools to a comfortable warmth. The countryside looks its finest during this time – lush and green from the rains. It is the best time to visit Thailand, especially during the coolest months of December and January. Numerous festivals are held in December and January to celebrate the end of the rice harvest, which lasts from November to early December. This allows Thais Spectacular street procession during the Vegetarian Festival, Phuket a period of relaxation. THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 37

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE (BANGKOK)

°C °F Temperature Chart 30 90 For visitors from temperate climes, 25 80 Thailand is hot and 20 70 humid throughout the 15 60 year, especially in the south. It is uncomfort- 10 50 ably so during April 5 40 and May but pleasant in November and 0 30 FebJanMar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec December. It can be chilly at night during the coolest months.

NOVEMBER His Majesty the King’s celebrating King the Birthday (Dec 5), Bangkok, Great’s expulsion of the Golden Mount Fair (1st week nationwide. Government and Burmese invaders in 1767. of Nov), Bangkok. Thailand’s private buildings are elabo- (Jan/Feb largest temple fair, held at rately decorated, and the area full moon), nationwide. This the foot of the Golden Mount around the Grand Palace is three-day festival is widely in Bangkok. illuminated. In the evening, observed by Thais of Loy Krathong (Nov full excited crowds gather Chinese ethnic origin with moon), nationwide. Perhaps around for the the lighting of fire crackers. Thailand’s loveliest national celebrations. This occasion festival. Pays homage to Mae shows the deep respect FEBRUARY Khongkha, goddess of rivers Thais have for their king. and waterways. In the eve- King’s Cup Regatta Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair (late nings, people gather at (variable), Phuket. Feb), Phetchaburi. A five-day rivers, lakes, and ponds Phuket’s Kata Beach celebration of Phetchaburi’s to float krathongs, or Resort hosts inter- cultural heritage and royal rafts, decorated with national yachtsmen, rulers from the Dvaravati and flowers, candles, who compete furi- periods. and incense. ously in the neigh- Thot Pah Pa Klang Photograph of the boring Andaman PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Nam (Nov full royal couple Sea for trophies. moon), Rayong. Chanthaburi International New Year’s Yellow robes offered to the Gemstone Fair (Dec 8–12), Day (Jan 1) monks on the occasion of Chanthaburi. The largest Makha Bucha (Feb/Mar Loy Krathong at the pier of gemstone fair in Thailand, full moon) the Prasae River in the held annually at Chanthaburi Chakri Day (Apr 6) middle of Rayong. Gems Center on Tri Rat and Chanthanimit Roads. Songkran/Thai New Year DECEMBER (Apr 13–15) JANUARY Labor Day (May 1) Trooping of the Colors (Dec Coronation Day (May 5) 3), Bangkok. A ceremony King Taksin the Great’s showcasing the regal pag- Commemoration Day (Dec Royal Plowing eantry, presided over by the 28–Jan 4), Chanthaburi. Fairs Ceremony (early May) king and queen. and beauty pageants Visakha Bucha (May full moon) Asanha Bucha and Khao Pansa (Jul full moon) Queen’s Birthday (Aug 12) Day (Oct 23) King’s Birthday (Dec 5) Constitution Day (Dec 10) International New Year’s Eve (Dec 31) Beautiful fireworks at Wat Mahathat during the Loy Krathong festival

INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 39

THE HISTORY OF THAILAND he story of Thailand is that of an area of Southeast Asia, rather than of a single nation. From small regional kingdoms Tto a single unified nation, the country’s past is a tumultuous history of conquests, rebellions, coups, as well as a resilient monarchy that has time and again steered the nation away from danger and anarchy, and continues to do so even today.

The earliest civilization in heavily influenced by Indian Thailand dates from around culture and religion. The Tai, 3600 BC, when the people of from southern China, in the northeastern migrated to the area from the region developed bronze tools 11th century onward. and pottery, and began rice culti- The Srivijaya Empire, ruled by vation. By 2000 BC, the Malay Hindu maharajas, prospered people were already settled in through trade with India and

the peninsula along the Ban Chiang China. However, its power Andaman and Gulf coasts. pottery, 300 BC began to decline from the 10th Inland, in the hills and jungles, century onward due to a series lived small groups of Negrito hunter- of wars with , and the advent of gatherers, the ancestors of today’s Muslim traders and teachers who Mani people. Influenced by Indian spread Islam in Sumatra and along and Chinese cultures, the first civili- the Malay coast. At the same time, zations to develop along Thailand’s the Dvaravati kingdom of the Mons coasts were Malay, Mon, and Khmer. played a significant role in the spread of . THE INDIC KINGDOMS The third powerful kingdom – that As early as 250 BC, the Malay of the Khmers – was established by region, including peninsular Jayavarman I. Although its capital Thailand, was strongly influenced was moved to Angkor between by Indian traders, who called the AD 889–915 by Yasovarman I (r.889– region Suvarnabhumi, meaning 910), the empire reached its zenith Golden Land. At this time, three under Suryavarman II (r.1113–50). separate and powerful kingdoms The greatest Khmer ruler was were established – Dvaravati (6th– Jayavarman VII (r.1181–1219), who 11th centuries AD) in what is now unified the empire and constructed the heart of Thailand; the Sumatra- Angkor Thom, probably the greatest based Srivijaya Empire (7th–13th city in the world at that time. centuries) in the peninsula; and the However, all three kingdoms (9th–13th centuries) eventually fell victim to the emerging based at Angkor. All three were power that was to become Siam.

TIMELINE Srivijaya-style 500 Srivijaya Buddha Empire spreads to 790 Khmer kingdom 1113 Suryavarman II Sumatra and penin- of Cambodia orders the 250 BC Maritime trade sular Thailand; established by construction of established between Hindu-Buddhist Jayavarman I Angkor Wat India and Southeast Asia culture dominates 4000 BC AD 1 AD 300 AD 600 AD 900 3600 BC 200 Chen La 550 Mon kingdom of 889 1289 City of Angkor Cultivation of civilization established Dvaravati flourishes; Yasovarman I Thom is completed rice in Ban in lower Mekong promotes Buddhism founds new Chiang region is influenced by capital at Indo-Chinese cultures Dvaravati coin Angkor

One of the oldest murals at Buddhaisawan Chapel, National Museum, Bangkok 40 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

THE KINGDOM OF AYUTTHAYA As the power of Sukhothai waned, a rival Tai kingdom began to develop in the early 14th century, in the lower Chao Phraya Valley, centered on the ancient Khmer city of , not far from present-day Bangkok. In 1350, the ambi- tious ruler U Thong moved his capital from Lopburi to Ayutthaya and proclaimed him- self King Ramathibodi (r.1351– Stone engraving of the illustrious King Ramkhamhaeng 69). He propagated Theravada THE KINGDOM OF SUKHOTHAI Buddhism as the state religion, inviting In 1238, two Tai chieftains seceded monks from nearby Sri Lanka to from the Khmer Empire establishing preach its doctrine. He even compiled the first notable Tai kingdom – a legal code based on the highly res- Sukhothai. It was the Khmers who pected Indian text, Dharmasastra. referred to the Tai as Siam, a name In AD 1369, the last year of his that came to be used for this and reign, Ramathibodi seized Angkor in subsequent Tai kingdoms. Sukhothai the first of a series of successful expanded by forming alliances with attacks by the Tais, on the Khmer other Tai kingdoms and Theravada Empire. The weakened Khmer Empire Buddhism was adopted as the state eventually had to submit to Ayutthaya’s religion. Under King Ramkhamhaeng overlordship, as did Sukhothai, which (r.1279–98), the kingdom enjoyed an was finally conquered in 1438. The era of prosperity. The Thai alphabet 15th century saw Ayutthaya become evolved during his reign, and the the strongest power in Southeast Asia. political and cultural foundations of Much of Ayutthaya’s energies Thailand were secured. Indeed, most were also directed toward the Malay today are descendants peninsula in the south, where of the Tai. He conquered the Mon Melaka, a great trading port, was and Khmer territories in the opposing its claims to sove- south as far as the Andaman reignty. Melaka and other Sea and Nakhon Si Thammarat, Malay states to the south of as well as over the Chao Phraya Nakhon Si Thammarat, had Valley and along the south- converted to Islam in the early eastern coast, to what is now 15th century and Islam served as Cambodia. In 1378, the capital a unifying symbol of Malay was moved from Sukhothai to solidarity against the Tais. the city of . Among Although it failed to conquer the most prosperous of the Melaka, Ayutthaya gained control ancient kingdoms, Sukhothai over much of the peninsular was peaceful and stable, lasting Sukhothai-style region extending Tai authority 200 years with only nine rulers. Walking Buddha over Pattani, , and

TIMELINE 1238 First 1350 Kingdom of independent Ayutthaya established. 1369 Ayutthaya conquers Tai state of Theravada Buddhism Angkor Sukhothai becomes the state religion founded King Ramkhamhaeng Ayutthaya coin Ayutthaya soldier AD 1200 AD 1280 AD 1360 AD 1440

1279 Beginning of King 1300 Thai political control 1438 Sukhothai defeated; Ramkhamhaeng’s reign extends as far south as Ayutthaya most powerful Nakhon Si Thammarat state in the region THE HISTORY OF THAILAND 41

Kelantan. However, the kingdom met its nemesis in the rise of Burma during the 16th century. The first Burmese attack came in 1569. A vassal ruler, King Maha Thammaracha (r.1569–90), was appointed king, and his successor, King the Great (r.1590–1605), later succeeded in regaining some of Ayutthaya’s lost glory after defeating Burma in the Battle of Nong Sarai (1593). Meanwhile, Europeans found their A 17th-century Dutch map of Ayutthaya way to the kingdom for trade. The conquered Cambodia in 1769. He Dutch arrived in 1604, followed by then marched south, establishing the French and the English. In 1767, Siamese rule over all of the southern Burmese armies invaded once again, as well as the Malay States. destroying Ayutthaya, scattering Tai Yet, by 1779, Taksin was in trouble. forces, and laying the capital to ruin. He alienated the Buddhist establish- Despite this disaster, Siam rapidly ment by claiming supernatural recovered under Taksin, a noble of powers and attacking the powerful Chinese descent. From Chanthaburi Chinese merchant class. In 1782, in the southeast, he defeated the while his army was invading Burmese and set up a new Siamese Cambodia, a rebellion broke out in state with its capital at , on Thonburi. The rebels, who enjoyed the west bank of the Chao Phraya popular support, offered the throne River, opposite modern-day Bangkok. to General Chakri, who accepted. Crowned King Taksin in 1768, he King Taksin was later executed, soon reunited the central Tai although rumors persist that he heartlands under his rule, and eventually entered monkhood.

King Naresuan fighting the Burmese, a 19th century depiction of the Battle of Nong Sarai

1767 Burmese forces 1590 Death of King sack Ayutthaya. General 1782 Taksin Maha Thammaracha; Taksin organizes stiff is executed; King Naresuan resistance at Chanthaburi General ascends the throne Chakri is Burmese harbor with ships made king AD 1520 AD 1600 AD 1680 AD 1760 1569 Burmese 1656–88 French influence forces capture reaches its highest point 1768 Taksin Ayutthaya and seizes throne imprison the 1604 Economic contact with with capital royal family Dutch, French, and English King Taksin at Thonburi 42 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

The General Chakri replaced the vanquished Taksin as king in 1782, and took the title of Rama I. With him began the Chakri Dynasty, which continues to this day. Successive rulers, who also took the title of Rama, shaped present-day Thailand. The Chakri kings consoli- dated their power through treaties with the Europeans, expanded trade, built and canals, opened universities, patronized art and architecture, and modernized the country. Their policies and diplomacy kept colonial powers at bay. However, political turmoil and several coups forced the monarchy to become a Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo, constitutional entity in 1932. constructed by Rama I in 1782

EARLY CHAKRI DYNASTY The early Chakri kings, Rama I, II, and III, reconstituted the Thai state and promoted Thai culture, following the model of the erstwhile kingdom of Ayutthaya. Patrons of art, literature, and poetry, they ushered in an era of stability in Thailand.

Rama I (r.1782–1809) Rama I moved the capital from Thonburi to Bang Makok. Having defeated the Burmese, he expanded and strengthened the kingdom.

Court ceremonies until the reign of Rama V were formal affairs with courtiers prostrating before the king. Buddhism Early Bangkok The early Chakri Known as Bang Makok (Place kings were great of Olive Plums), early Bangkok proponents of had waterways and canals, Theravada but hardly any paved roads. Buddhism. They built beautiful Sunthorn Phu (1786–1855) wats to house Court poet of Rama II, III, and magnificent IV, Sunthorn Phu is the most images of celebrated bard in Thailand. the Buddha.

TIMELINE 1851 Rama IV, 1782 Rama I moves his capital the first great to Bangkok and begins a 1809–24 Reign of Rama II; is reformer, ascends massive building program on built in Bangkok; ties strengthened with the Chakri throne Rattanakosin Island European powers, notably Great Britain Wat Arun 1790 1805 1820 1835 1850 1865 1785 Rama I defeats the 1824–51 Reign of Burmese near Kanchanaburi; Rama III; rivalry with 1868 Reign of Rama Thai authority re-established for control V, Father of Modern of Cambodia Thailand, begins THE HISTORY OF THAILAND 43

Rama IV (r.1851–68) Also known as King , he was the first reforming monarch of the Chakri Dynasty. Besides being a skilled linguist, Rama IV was also interested in science. Modernization Bangkok’s first surfaced motor road, called Charoen Krung or New Road, was opened in 1861 during the reign European diplomats were permitted to stand in the king’s presence, but had to make a low bow. of Rama IV.

REIGN OF RAMA IV AND RAMA V Rama IV and Rama V were both far-sighted and wise rulers who chose to learn from the West and modernize Siam, thus avoiding colonization.

French Attacks (1893–1907) The French attempted to assert their authority over Indochina and during the reign of Rama V, took over the Siam-controlled region of .

Rama V (r.1868–1910) Christened King Chulalongkorn, Rama V assiduously safeguarded the kingdom’s independence from Colonial powers.

Rama IX (b.1927) CONSTITUTIONAL MONARCHS King Bhumibol A military coup in 1932 transformed Adulyadej, the reign- Thailand from an absolute to a constitu- ing monarch, and tional monarchy. As a result, the king Queen Sirikit are very today holds no formal political power. popular with Thais.

Chulalongkorn University The University, named after Rama V, was founded in 1917. It is the most prestigious institute of higher learning in Thailand.

1893 The French with their gunboats, Thai flag 1917 Thailand’s flag is 1942 Japanese become a huge threat officially adopted invasion compels for Bangkok, leading Thailand to enter to a confrontation 1939 Siam is officially World War II as in Pak Nam renamed Thailand Japanese ally 1880 1895 1910 1925 1940 Chakri 1932 Coup by Phibun coin 1897 Rama V Songkram establishes a 1945 Thailand 1946 Rama IX, visits Europe for on losing side the present the first time in World War II king, ascends the throne 44 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS

by Kriangsak Chomanand (1977–80) and then Prem Tinsulanond (1980–88). The latter, a firm royalist with a reputation for being incor- ruptible, stepped down voluntarily in 1988 paving the path for . The army intervened in 1991, with seizing power in the 17th coup since 1932. However, on this occasion, the current king, Student protest slogan, “You must return my people to me”, 1973 Rama IX, used his unchal- AN ERA OF UNCERTAINTY lenged moral authority to bring a swift After World War II, the left-leaning Seni end to military rule. A series of more- Pramoj became prime minister and or-less corrupt or incompetent civilian re-established Thailand’s fledgling governments followed, leading to the democracy. He was succeeded in 1946 election of in 2001. by the democratically elected Pridi Phanomyong. In 1947, the wartime THE CRISIS DEEPENS leader, Phibun Songkram, staged A devastating tsunami wreaked havoc another coup and set the country on a in Phuket and the Andaman Coast in path of military dictatorships that 2004. Thaksin was re-elected as Prime would mark Thailand’s politics for Minister in 2005. He adopted a carrot much of the remainder of the 20th and stick policy in the Deep South in century. Phibun’s return to an attempt to end the power coincided with the start insurgency, which began at the of the Cold War, for the beginning of the 21st century, duration of which Thailand aimed at establishing an remained a loyal anti- independent Pattani Republic. communist ally of the United His rule was marked by corrup- States, participating in the tion, nepotism, and brutality – Vietnam War on behalf of more than 2,500 suspected Washington and the Saigon drug dealers suffered extra-

regime, and also fighting and Military dictator judicial execution at the hands eventually defeating a home- Phibun Songkram of the police, and hundreds of grown communist insurgency. local Muslims suffocated to In 1973, a student uprising in death after being arrested and packed Bangkok forced the retirement of mili- into trucks. While Thaksin managed to tary strongman , reinforce his power base in the rural and for a brief period, democratic north and northeast through a mixture government was reinstated. In 1976, of vote buying and populist policies, however, the army once again seized he made the mistake of alienating power, with right-wing general Thanin major elements of the army, and most Kraivixien (1976–7) being succeeded disastrously of all, the royal court.

TIMELINE 1979 Elections take place once again and 1975 End of Vietnam War; US parliamentary SEATO military troops begin to leave Thailand democracy is units in Bangkok re-established 1950 1960 1970 1980 1954 The South East Asia Treaty Organization (SEATO) is formed 1973 Student uprising 1976 Power seized by against military dictator the army; Thanin 1947 Phibun Songkram stages coup Thanom Kittikachorn Kraivixien, is suc- to topple Pridi Phanomyong ceeded by Chomanand THE HISTORY OF THAILAND 45

Thousands of protesters demanding Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s resignation in 2006 TROUBLED TIMES The PPP was eventually dissolved for While he was abroad, Thaksin was electoral fraud and Abhisit Vejjajiva, overthrown in 2006 in another leader of the opposition Democratic bloodless military coup. The military Party, was sworn in as Prime Minister. authorities appointed a royal privy In response to the PAD, a new counselor, General Surayud Chulanont, movement, the Red Shirts United as Prime Minister. Thaksin was subse- Front for Democracy against quently convicted for corruption and Dictatorship (UDD), took to the sentenced to two years imprisonment. streets. Street violence and conflict Choosing not to return, he formed a between PAD and the UDD continues, proxy party – the People’s Power but once again, it is the royal family, Party (PPP) – to contest elections in especially Rama IX, who are the glue December 2007. The PPP won a holding Thai society together. majority and assumed office. For most of 2008, Thaksin effectively governed indirectly. His continued involvement as the puppet master of Thai politics infuriated not only the south, but also important elements of the Bangkok establishment and the middle classes, represented by the People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD), a political group better known as the Yellow Shirts. The PAD and its supporters used non-violent civic action to bring down the PPP, culmi- nating in the illegal occupation of the Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Abhisit Vejjajiva, with his cabinet to the right, prior to in Bangkok, in November 2008. the swearing-in ceremony in December 2008

2006 Thaksin overthrown, while out of 2001 Thaksin the country, in a bloodless coup 1992 Coup by General Shinawatra is Suchinda fails; period of elected as 2007 New constitution increasing democracy the Prime announced; PPP is established and growth Minister Former Prime Minister Thaksin 1990 2000 2010 2020 1997 Thai economy 2008 PAD supporters illegally occupy suffers serious setback 2004 Indian Ocean Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Asian financial crisis tsunami devastates Phuket and Thailand’s 2005 Thaksin re-elected; situation in Deep Andaman Coast South deteriorates; rising communal violence

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AT A GLANCE 4849 BANGKOK 5095 EASTERN SEABOARD 96129 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 130155 LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 156195 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 196239 LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 240275 DEEP SOUTH 276285 48 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Thailand’s Beaches and Islands at a Glance The southern peninsula of Thailand is dominated by the Andaman Sea to the west and the Gulf of Thailand to the east. A central spine of jungle- covered mountains to the north marks the frontier with Myanmar. While the capital, Bangkok, influences the whole country, the old Buddhist city of Nakhon Si Thammarat is the political and cultural capital of the south. , newer and vibrant, is the south’s economic stronghold. Major resorts include Phuket, Krabi, and Ko Samui, while the seaside resort of Pattaya offers an eclectic mix of family entertainment alongside its risqué go-go bars. The region is also well known for the astounding White prangs of Wat Mahathat beauty of its national parks and wildlife sanctuaries. Worawihan in Phetchaburi

0 km 100

0 miles 100

UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST (see pp130–55)

Ang Thong Marine National Park (see pp180–81) is among the most pristine areas in Thailand, offering a variety of activities ranging from snorkeling, trekking, and caving to simply enjoying breathtaking views of sunsets.

UPPER ANDAMAN Similan Islands COAST (see pp210–11), (see pp196–239) is an isolated archipelago of tiny granitic islands set LOWER in the midst of the ANDAMAN COAST Andaman Sea. (see pp240–75) They offer some of the best diving and snorkeling sites in southern Thailand.

Hat Rai Leh (see p248) is perhaps one of southern Thailand’s most popular beaches, with the best swimming and rock climbing opportunities. The large number of resorts and restaurants here cater to varied tastes and budgets.

Long winding shoreline of picturesque Hat Karon in Phuket, lined with colorful beach umbrellas THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AT A GLANCE 49

Pak Khlong Market (see p72), located in the heart of Bangkok, is the kingdom’s single largest flower market. On sale are local orchids, fragrant imported roses, hyacinths, and tulips from Europe, as well as several other varieties of BANGKOK lovely tropical blooms. (see pp50–95)

EASTERN SEABOARD (see pp96–129)

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park (see pp144–5) was the country’s first coastal national park. Its varied Pattaya (see pp104–8) is one of the landscape is home to hundreds of most popular destinations in Thailand. species of migratory birds. It is known for its decadent but vibrant nightlife, discos, and go-go bars. LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST (see pp156–95)

DEEP SOUTH (see pp276–85)

Songkhla Lakes (see p282) form the largest natural lake system in Thailand. Divided into three distinct parts, it is home to the Thale Noi Waterfowl Park, a haven for native fowls and migratory birds from Siberia and China.

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 51

BANGKOK

ounded at the end of the 18th century, Thailand’s capital is a young city, yet, it has prospered and grown into a megalopolis Fof more than 12 million people in just two centuries. Straddling the , Bangkok is a thriving modern city which combines old world culture with urban delights. It offers visitors options ranging from ornate Buddhist temples to magnificent palaces, and trendy restaurants and nightclubs to bustling street markets.

Established in 1782 by Rama I cornerstone of the financial (r.1782–1809), Bangkok was the district with all the major “new” capital built on a readily banking and trading insti- defensible site along a bend in tutions. The notorious the Chao Phraya River. Set up Road near the eastern end is at the small village and trading famous for its neon lights and settlement of Bang Makok, go-go bars. Just outside central literally, Place of Olive Plums Bangkok lies , a after the fruit trees growing in shopper’s paradise and the choice the area, it was formally con- for most budget travelers. secrated and given a new royal Diverse ethnic groups such as title extending over 150 letters, which the Chinese and Portuguese soon became abbreviated to Krung have left an indelible imprint across Thep, meaning City of Angels. different quarters of the city. There is an absence of any single With gleaming and futuristic center in Bangkok. The old Royal skyscrapers dominating the cityscape, City, built within three concentric and floating markets crowding the canals on Rattanakosin Island, is the river, Bangkok juggles many worlds. cultural and historical heart of the It is intersected and linked by a city, home to the Grand Palace and network of canals branching off from the much-revered Wat Phra Kaeo. the Chao Phraya River. A vibrant city Downtown Bangkok’s Silom Road that never sleeps, Bangkok is truly and the surrounding area is the global in its dimensions.

The Bangkok skyline at night dominated by bright lights and soaring skyscrapers

Vendors selling their produce from boats at the colorful Damnoen Saduak floating market 52 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Bangkok The country’s capital, Bangkok is an exhilarating metropolis. It is also the center of most Thai com- mercial and cultural activity. Dotted with some of the most magnificent palaces and wats (temples) in Asia, and laced by the mighty Chao Phraya River, it boasts such glorious sights as the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo in the heart of royal Bangkok. Southeast of the center lies Chinatown, a bustling commercial quarter. Dusit area is the bureaucratic stronghold dominated by government offices, broad avenues, and Wat Benchamabophit, where the ashes of Rama V (r.1868–1910) lie. Silom Road houses the city’s financial center, while the Busy waters of the Chao Phraya River main shopping hub is along Sukhumvit Road.

3"5$)"8*5)* 

B SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Z B S Temples and Shrines I 1 46"/4&5 h 

%64*5

P "* 

/  Grand Palace and Wat B 4".4&/ 

4PVUIFSO5FSNJOBM 5IFXBU ( I / Phra Kaeo pp56–61 1 NJMFT LN 4* 3"5$)"4*."46"/ 0 $ ":655)":"".103/ 6 5 ) 8 Wat Arun 3BNB7*** ,IMPOH1IBEVOH 40.% #SJEHF Wat Benchamabophit e  / & 4 Wat Bowonniwet w &51)3 . 8 /0, " ,36/(,"4&. * 1)*54"/6-0, Wat Kalayanimit 9 4 4  6 3"." 7 / 5 4 * ,SVOH,BTFN Wat Mahathat 3 " 1ISB"UIJU " 1*/

. pp64–5 2 1ISB1JO , " #BOHLPL 1)3" ,- ,MBP#SJEHF " 4 4 Wat Rakhang 7  /PJ5IPOCVSJ 6.& " 13"$)"5)*1"5)"*5 / "0 / 

6 4"8"/

Wat Ratchabophit 0 3 " 3 4JSJSBK /",)0/ Wat Ratchapradit 3"5$)" %*/403 1ISB$IBO %". /0&/ 3"5$)"%"./0&/ " , and 4JSJSBK -"/( -"/ -6"/( 4"/". 5  the Golden Mount y 4 " -6"/( ,IMP % OH .BI " B and " $)"* OBL 3

$IBOH / 6 "" $)"* 4"/". /( / .6" (  the q .36/(  #" #".36/(.6"/(

/ 

)0 a " Wat Traimit ,

.

" .")"  - 3

/(/" 46"/ 0  * 4"3"/30. ) / 30."/*/"35 , . 1"3, 5*5)0/(  '6" Museums and Palaces 6 & H  $ : 4 ) " MPO "30&  ,36/( I , , O  Jim Thompson’s House .P  803"$)",    / 5JFO  ( pp76–7 j 5 &8 3 / " 6

3 1)&5 8 , 5 " : 0" National Museum " 3 0 8BU , 8 %  53*1)&5 , " Royal Barge Museum 6 "SVO 3 3BDIJOFF $)", " " ) 5 k $  )VB 1BL,IMPOH .FNPSJBM#SJEHF -BNQPOH 1ISB1PL $ .FNPSJBM ) Neighborhoods and Markets ,MBP#SJEHF 3BUDIBXPOHTF " #SJEHF 3 $ 0 Chinatown p IB & P /  Hua Lampong Station s 1 , I 3 S 40.%&5$)"01)3":" B 6 u Z / Monk’s Bowl Village B (  Pak Khlong Market o 

/&830"% Patpong f )BSCPS %FQBSUNFOU Market i 4J1ISBZB

Parks and Gardens 8BU.VBOH Dusit Park pp70–71 r ,IBF

Dusit Zoo t 0SJFOUBM Lumphini Park g 0 km 1 4BQIBO 5BLTJO 5BLTJO Hotels 0 miles 1 #SJEHF Mandarin Oriental d BANGKOK 53

GETTING AROUND Bangkok is a large city which is consistently hot and humid for most of the year – not the best place for those who prefer exploring a city on foot. Fortunately, Bangkok has an excellent local transport system comprising taxis, buses, ferries, the metro, and Skytrain. Getting around by taxi is simple and relatively cheap. Buses are even cheaper, but require some knowledge of the city’s routes. The new Skytrain and metro offer easy, fast, and reliable access to most downtown areas. Finally, the ferries and other crafts operating on the Chao Phraya River as well as on several major khlongs (canals), are reasonably priced and a remarkably picturesque way of exploring the city.

3"5$)"8*5)*

Serene grounds of Wat Phra Kaeo, Thailand’s holiest shrine 46"/ $)*53-"%"

/PSUIFSO5FSNJOBM SEE ALSO NJMFT LN %PO.VBOH • Street Finder pp84–95 NJMFT LN

4* • Where to Stay pp290–94 ":655)":"  • Where to Eat pp318–22 :

"

4"8"/,)"-0, 1IBZB 8 4* 4 5IBJ ":655)":" 4

&  * 3 1)&5$)"#63* " ) 5

&91  " : 0

" - 4VWBSOBCIVNJ ) ) NJMFT LN 1 , 3BUDIBUIFXJ ( 1)& * / 5 $)"#63

"

# 

* ( 3"." / " * $IJU &BTUFSO5FSNJOBM

" /BUJPOBM ) -PN 6 NJMFT LN 5 4UBEJVN 3"." 40*$)*5-0.  . *  4JBN KEY " 1)-0&/$)*5 ( $FOUSBM : /

" 0 Street-by-Street map 3 1IMPFO ) see pp54–5 1 $IJU

3* Major sight .

3BUDIBEBNSJ " International airport #"/5)"55)0/( )VB "%

40*$)6-"-0/(,03/ 40*-"/(46"/ -BNQPOH 40*50/40/ 1)":" 5)"* $) Train station 3"." *7 5 " 4"3"4*/ 3 Long-distance bus station

4BN:BO )&/3*%6/"/5 Skytrain station 4*13":"

/ (  8*55)":6 8*3&-&4430"% Riverboat pier 8 0 4JMPN 3 " 4 6

/ 3 Chao Phraya Express pier " " 3  5 -VNQIJOJ / ( $ " 0 ) 5 4BMB 8 ) " " 6 3 * 4 / 8 4*-0. %BFOH Metro Station " " , 5 "   3 13".6"/ */  $IPOH Visitor information 4*-0. /POTJ Skytrain route " /6 3/ )0 Railway line 4VSBTBL 4"5 Expressway 54 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Sanam Luang K6TDLGH$ One of the few large open spaces in Bangkok, Sanam Luang, meaning Field of Kings, is the traditional site for royal cremations. The annual Kite Flying Festival and the Royal Plowing Ceremony, an ancient festival marking the beginning of the rice-growing season, are also held here. Bordered by the Grand Palace, the Lak Muang shrine, and the Amulet Market, this is regarded as one of the holiest areas in the city. The streets A monument in overflow with salesmen hawking potions Sanam Luang Colorful and intricately designed and amulets for luck, love, or protection gable at Lak Muang from evil spirits, and astrologers who read palms. Notable sights include Wat Mahathat, Thailand’s revered Phra Chan Pier center of Buddhist studies and the National Museum, which traces the country’s fascinating history.

Maharaj Chao Praya Express Pier

Amulet Market

Wat Mahathat Dating from the 18th century, this wat is known more for its bustling ambience than its archi- TROK SILLAPAKORN tecture. Meditation classes are MAHATHAT held at the Buddhist university within the temple compound. 4

NA P

0 meters 500 Chang Chao Phraya HRA LAN Express Pier 0 yards 500

To Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (see pp56-61)

Western edge of Sanam Luang of Fine Arts To Lak Muang (City Pillar) Thailand’s most famous art school, the Silpakorn University of Fine Arts, regularly hosts excellent art KEY shows in its exhibition . The signs outside the Suggested route entrance have more details and opening times.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 55

AMULETS The Thais are a highly superstitious people – those who do not wear some protective charm or lucky amulet are a minority. Amulets come in myriad forms and are sold in specialty markets, often near auspicious spiritual sites. Although many are religious in nature – such as miniature Buddhas and copies of sacred statues – others are created for more worldly purposes, such as model phalluses to ensure sexual potency. Amulets are such a big business that they even have magazines dedicated to them.

A selection of charms sold at stalls around Sanam Luang

Thammasat University, noted for its law and political science depart- ments, was the site of violently suppressed stu- dent riots in the 1970s.

PHRA CHAN . National Museum A magnificent range of arts and crafts To Phra Pin- from every period of Klao Bridge Thai history are displayed in this huge museum 5

The Gallery of Thai History at the National Museum NA PHRA THAT provides a good intro- duction to the country.

Fortune Teller at Sanam Luang Thai people set great store by the predictions of fortune tellers, many of whom are found at Sanam Luang near Wat Phra Kaeo.

STAR SIGHTS . Kite Flying at Sanam Luang . National Museum Rama V was an avid kite flyer and allowed Sanam Luang to be used for the sport. Even today, fiercely . Kite Flying at contested kite-flying matches are regularly held Sanam Luang between February and April. 56 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo 1 AFS7FDDLTFT'H$VGSH1AFSV eH Construction of this site began in Rattanakosin island in 1782, to mark the founding of the new capital and provide a resting place for the sacred Phra Kaeo, or the , and a residence for the king. Surrounded by walls stretching for 6,234 ft (1,900 m), Detail on Phra Mondop Library the complex was once a self-sufficient city within a city. The royal family now lives in Dusit, but Wat Phra Kaeo is still Thailand’s holiest temple – Wat Phra Kaeo’s skyline, as seen visitors must cover their knees and heels before entering. from Sanam Luang

. Bot of the Emerald Buddha Emerald Devotees make offerings to the Buddha Emerald Buddha at the entrance to the bot, the most important building in the wat.

Chapel of the Gandharara Buddha

. Ramakien Gallery Extending all around the cloisters are 178 panels depicting the complete story of the Ramakien (see p59).

TIMELINE 1925 Rama VII (r.1925–35) 1783 Work begins on chooses to live in the Wat Phra Kaeo, Dusit Chitrlada Palace at Dusit. Throne Hall, and Phra 1855 New buildings Grand Palace reserved for Maha Monthien epitomize fusion of Eastern special occasions and Western styles

1750 1800 1850 1900 1950 1809 Rama II 1840s Women’s 1880 Rama V (r.1868– 1932 Chakri 1782 Official (r.1809–24) quarter laid out 1910), the last king to Dynasty’s 150th year founding of introduces as a city within make major additions, celebrated at palace new capital Chinese a city involves 26 of his details half-brothers in the 1982 Renovation of renovation of the wat the complex

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 57

Phra Mondop (library) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Green and blue glass mosaic adorns the exterior of the library. Na Phra Lan Rd. City Map 1 C5. The original building was @ 1, 3, 25, 33, 39, 53. 4 Tien, destroyed in the fireworks display Chang. # 8:30am–3:30pm celebrating its completion. daily. ¢ ceremonies. & includes Vimanmek Palace. ^ in bot. = www.palaces.thai.net

Decorative Gilt Figures Encircling the exterior of the bot are 112 (mythical beasts – half-man, half-bird) holding nagas (serpents). They are typical of the wat’s decorative details.

The Phra Si Rattana Chedi contains a piece of the Buddha’s breastbone. The Upper Terrace houses several important buildings some of which are open to the public on special occasions such as Chakri Day.

Ho Phra Nak (royal mausoleum)

Wihan Yot

WAT PHRA KAEO Wat Phra Kaeo is a sub-complex within the greater Grand Palace complex. The temple is Thailand’s holiest shrine, but unlike other Thai wats, has no resident monks.

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEO 1 Entrance 3 Dusit Throne Hall 2 Wat Phra Kaeo complex 4 Aphonphimok Pavilion 5 Chakri Throne Hall 6 Inner Palace Ho Phra 7 Phra Maha Monthien Monthien Buildings Tham is the 8 Siwalai Gardens auxiliary library. The Royal 9 Rama IV Chapel Pantheon 10 Boromphiman Mansion 11 Audience Chamber

STAR FEATURES KEY . Bot of the Wat Phra Kaeo complex Emerald Buddha Buildings . Ramakien Gallery Lawns 58 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Wat Phra Kaeo Inside the bot are murals from the reign of Rama III (r.1824– When Rama I established the new capital of 51). They depict themes from Bangkok in 1782, his ambition was to construct the Traiphum, texts based a royal temple along the lines of the grand on ; the wats in previous Thai capitals. Symbolizing Buddha’s victory over Mara, the simultaneous founding of the Chakri the god of death; and scenes Dynasty, this temple would surpass its from the jatakas (tales from the previous lives of the Bud- Sukhothai and Ayutthaya predecessors in dha). Around the temple are both design and decor. The result of his 12 open-sided salas (small vision was Wat Phra Kaeo, or Temple of the pavilions) built as contem- Celestial Emerald Buddha, officially known as Wat plative shelters. figure Phra Si Rattana Sasadaram. It is so called To the southeast of the bot because the bot () houses the Emerald is the 19th-century Chapel of Buddha, brought from Wat Arun (see p66) in 1785. the Gandharara Buddha with a bronze Buddha image. The figure is depicted calling the rains and is used in the Royal Plowing Ceremony (see p54). The bell in the nearby belfry is rung only on special occa- sions such as New Year’s Day.

THE UPPER TERRACE

Of the four structures on this elevated terrace, the Phra Si Rattana Chedi is the most striking. Located at the western end, this was built by Rama IV (r.1851–68) as a shrine for a portion of the Buddha’s breastbone. The golden tiles that decorate the exterior were later added by Rama V. The adjacent Phra Mondop, used as a library, was built by Rama I as a hall to house Buddhist scriptures. Although the library is closed to the public, the exterior is splen- did in itself. The Javanese Fine decorations adorning the façade at Chapel of the Gandharara Buddha Buddha images on the four outer corners are copies of Inside, the surprisingly small early 9th-century originals, THE BOT AND image of the Emerald Buddha which are preserved in the PERIPHERAL BUILDINGS sits in a glass case high above a golden altar. Carved from a The most sacred building single piece of jade (not emer- within the palace complex, ald), it is 26-in (66-cm) tall the bot or ubosot of Wat Phra and has a lap span of 19 in Kaeo was erected to house (48 cm). The Buddha has the most revered image of the been attributed to the late Buddha in Thailand – the Lanna style of the 15th cen- Emerald Buddha. tury. It is dressed in one of The doors and windows three costumes – a crown and in the exterior of the bot are jewelry for the summer sea- inlaid with delicate mother- son, a golden shawl in winter, of-pearl. There are a series and a gilded monastic robe of gilded garudas along the and headdress in the rainy marble base supporting season. The reigning monarch the structure. The staircase or a prince appointed by him leading to the main entrance presides over each changing are guarded by Cambodian- of the Buddha’s attire in a Entrance to the Phra Mondop style singhas or lions. deeply symbolic ceremony. guarded by a pair of gold

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 59

THE PRANGS, YAKSHAS, AND RAMAKIEN GALLERY

Surrounding the temple complex is the cloister-like Ramakien Gallery, decorated with lavishly painted and meticulously restored murals. This is Thailand’s most exten- sive depiction of the ancient legend of the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian epic . This is a tale of the triumph of good over evil with the virtuous hero, Rama, as the central character. The 178 panels were painted in the late 18th century, but damage from humidity means that frequent renovation is necessary. The murals are Mural depicting a scene from the Ramakien in the Ramakien Gallery divided by marble pillars inscribed with verses relating museum near the entrance members of the royal family. the story, that begin opposite to the palace complex. Outside The Nak Buddha was moved the Wihan Yot and proceed in the building are memorials into the neighboring Wihan a clockwise direction. to the kings of the Chakri Yot, which is shaped like a Guarding each gateway to Dynasty, as well as bronze Greek cross and decorated the gallery is a pair of yakshas elephant statues that repre- with Chinese porcelain. (nature spirits). Placed here sent the royal white The Northern during the reign of Rama II, elephants (see p69) Terrace housing the they are said to protect the from the first five Ho Phra Monthien Emerald Buddha from evil reigns of the dynasty. Tham, or Auxiliary spirits. Each repre- To the north of the Library, was built by sents a different character mondop is a model Rama I’s brother. The from the Ramakien myth. of Angkor Wat in door panels inlaid The eight prangs (conical Cambodia which was with mother-of-pearl, towers) at the edge of the tem- commissioned by Ramakien figure were salvaged from ple complex, representing the Rama IV to show his outside chedi Ayutthaya’s Wat eight elements of Buddhism people the scale and Borom Buddharam. are painted in different colors splendor of 12th-century Inside, Buddhist scriptures are and decorated with delicate Khmer architecture. stored in fine cabinets. Chinese porcelain. The Royal Pantheon which houses statues of the Chakri kings was built to commemo- THE LEGEND OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA rate the founding of the The most sacred image in Thailand, the Emerald Buddha is Chakri Dynasty. Rama IV built revered by kings and commoners alike. In 1434, lightning the hall to house the Emerald struck the chedi of Wat Phra Kaeo in in north- Buddha but later decided it ern Thailand, revealing a stucco image. The abbot of the was too small. The pantheon temple kept it in his residence until the flaking is open to the public only on plaster exposed a jade statue beneath. Learning Chakri Day (see p34). about the discovery, the king of Chiang Mai sent an army of elephants to bring the image to him. The elephant bearing the Emerald THE NORTHERN TERRACE Buddha, however, refused to take the road to Chiang Mai, and, treating this as an aus- Ho Phra Nak was originally picious sign, the entourage rerouted to constructed by Rama I in the Lampang. The image was moved over late 18th century to enshrine the next century and taken to Laos in a nak (alloy of gold, silver, 1552. It was not until Rama I captured and copper) Buddha image in 1778, that the Emerald that had been rescued from Buddha was returned to Thailand. It Ayutthaya. Rama III, however, was kept in Wat Arun for 15 years, demolished the original hall, before a grand river procession preferring to build the present brought it to its current resting The small Emerald brick and mortar structure to place on March 5, 1785. Buddha inside the bot house the ashes of minor 60 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Grand Palace a fact reflected in the theme of its elaborate decoration. Built at the same time as Wat Phra Kaeo, the The structure was originally Grand Palace was the king’s intended to have a domed from 1782 to 1946, although Rama V was the roof, but the royal court last monarch to live here. Today, the royal decided that in the interest family resides at Chitrlada Palace, Dusit. of maintaining aesthetic har- Throughout the palace’s history, many mony with surrounding buildings, a Thai-style roof structures have been altered. Within the would be more appropriate. Decorative complex there are a few functioning gov- Housed on the top floor of yaksha statue ernment buildings, such as the Ministry of the Central Hall are the ashes Finance, but most others are unused. of royal monarchs. The first Important ceremonies are still held in the Dusit Throne floor functions as the main Hall and the Amarin Winichai Hall. audience hall where the King receives ambassadors and entertains foreign monarchs. the Dusit Throne Hall. The Behind the Niello Throne DUSIT THRONE HALL king would be carried on a in the Chakri Throne Room is palanquin to the pavilion’s the emblem of the dynasty – This cross-shaped throne hall shoulder-high first step. Inside a discus and trident. The was originally built in 1784 the building he would change paintings in the room depict as a reproduction of one of into the appropriate apparel diplomatic missions, including Ayutthaya’s grandest buildings, for the occasion. The Queen Victoria welcoming the Sanphet Maha Prasat. Five pavilion’s simple Rama IV’s ambassador in years later, the hall was struck structure, comple- London. The East by lightning and rebuilt on a mented by its Wing is used as a smaller scale. Crowned with a elaborate dec- reception room for sumptuously decorated, tiered oration, makes royal guests. The spire, it is one of the finest it a building of long hall connec- examples of early Rattanakosin perfect propor- ting the Central architecture. Inside is a master- tions – a glory of Hall with this piece of – the original Thai architecture. It Elephant statue by wing is lined Rama I teak throne, inlaid inspired Rama V so Chakri Throne Hall with portraits with beautiful mother-of- much so that he had a of the Chakri pearl. In the south wing is a replica built at Bang Pa-in, Dynasty. In the West Wing window in the form of a in northern Thailand. is the queen’s personal throne. The hall is used for reception room. Portraits of the annual Coronation Day some principal queens deco- celebrations (see p35). CHAKRI THRONE HALL rate the hall between the Central Hall and this wing. Also known as the Grand APHONPHIMOK Palace Throne Hall, the PAVILION Chakri Throne Hall was built PHRA MAHA in Neo-Classical style by the MONTHIEN BUILDINGS Rama IV built this small British architect John Chinitz. wooden structure as a Rama V commissioned the This cluster of connected royal changing room for building in 1882 to mark buildings, located to the when he was giving the centenary of the east of the Chakri Throne audience at Chakri Dynasty, Hall, is the Grand Residence of the palace complex. The focal point of the 18th- century Amarin Winichai Hall, the northernmost building of the group, is Rama I’s boat- shaped Busabok Mala Throne. When an audience was present, two curtains hid the throne as the king ascended, and the curtains were drawn back with elaborate fanfare, to reveal the king wearing a loose, golden gown and seeming to float on the prow- like part of the throne. In the 19th century, two British ambassadors were Exterior of the Dusit Throne Hall, with its elegant multitiered roof received in such manner here,

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 61

SIWALAI GARDENS

These beautiful gardens, which are often closed for state functions, lie east of the Inner Palace and contain the Phra Buddha Ratana Sathan, a personal chapel built by Rama IV. The pavilion is covered in gray marble and decorated with white and blue glass mosaics. The marble (boundary stones) are inlaid with the insignia of Rama V, who placed the stones here, Rama II, who had the gardens laid out, and Rama IV. A Neo-Classical palace, Boromphiman Mansion in the gardens was built by Rama V, in 1903, as a residence for the Crown Prince (later Rama VI). The building served as a temp- orary residence for several kings including the present monarch Rama IX. Today, it is used as a guesthouse for visiting dignitaries.

Visitors taking a tour of the exquisite Phaisan Thaksin Hall AUDIENCE CHAMBER by Rama II Palace, which is closed to the and Sir by public. Until the time of Visible from outside the Rama IV. The hall is now Rama VII, the palace was palace walls, this chamber – used for some important inhabited solely by wives and Phra Thinang Sutthaisawan state ceremonies. daughters of the royal family. Prasat – is located between Connected to the hall by a Apart from sons, who had to Thewaphithak and Sakchaisit gateway through which only leave the palace on reaching gates. It was built by Rama I the king, queen, and royal puberty, the king was the to grant audience during royal children may walk is the only male allowed to live ceremonies and to watch the Phaisan Thaksin Hall. This was within its walls. The palace training of his elephants. used by Rama I as a private functioned as a small city, Rama III strengthened the hall when dining with family, with its own government and wooden structure with brick, friends, and members of the laws, complete with prison and decorative features were royal court. In 1809, a Borom cells. Under the strict eye of added later. These include the Rachaphisek Ceremony was a Directress of the Inside, a crowning spire and ornamen- performed in this hall to mark small army of uniformed tal cast-iron motifs. the coronation of Rama II. On officers policed the area. the high altar is the Phra Siam Rama III renovated the Thewathirat, a highly vener- overcrowded and precarious ated guardian figure, placed wooden structures, and, in here by Rama IV. the late 19th century, Rama V The third building is the built small, fantastical Chakraphat Phiman Hall. It Victorian-style palaces here served as a residence for the for his favorite consorts. Since first three Chakri kings. It is his successor, Rama VI, had still the custom for a newly only one wife, the complex crowned king to spend a was left virtually empty, and it night here as part of his eventually fell into disrepair. coronation ceremony. One of the palace buildings continues to function as a finishing school for daughters INNER PALACE of high-society Thai families. They are taught a variety of Behind a gateway to the left grooming skills such as flower of the Chakri Throne Hall is weaving, Thai royal cuisine, The grand Boromphiman Mansion, the entrance to the Inner and social etiquette. designed by Hercules Manfredi 62 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Wat Pho 2 National H1YA5^z Museum 5

See pp64–5. A`A`5C0.K3T6VLt$'T2`

1 Na Phra That Rd. City Map 1 C4. Tel 0-2224-1333. @ 15, 19, 32, 39, Wat Ratchapradit 3 53, 59, 70; AC: 506, 507,508. 4 H1FT'8FS1`I-q Phra Athit. # 9am–4pm Wed–Sun. & 8 ^ 0 = Saran Rom Rd. City Map 2 D5. Tel 0-2223-8215. @ AC: 501, 502, The National Museum has 512. 4 Tien. # 5am–10pm daily. one of the most comprehen- sive collections in Southeast Located in the northeastern Asia and provides an excel- corner of the former Saran Entrance to the Buddhist University lent introduction to the art Rom Palace gardens (now the within Wat Mahathat and history of Thailand. This Ministry of Foreign Affairs), building was originally the this charming temple is rarely residence of the King’s vice- 4 on a visitor’s itinerary. A small Wat Mahathat roy, which was then turned temple, Wat Ratchapradit was H1DLT5T2i into a museum by Rama V built in the mid-19th century in 1887 in order to showcase by Rama IV and the Western Na Phra That Rd. City Map 1 C5. the country’s rich past and flourish in his architecture is Tel 0-2972-9473. @ AC: 203, 506. cultural heritage. apparent in the choice of 4 Chang, Maharaj. # daily. Two of the buildings in the building materials. Striking museum – the 18th-century carvings adorn the temple. This is a large, busy temple Wang Na Palace, and the The main wihan (assembly complex, which is interesting Buddhaisawan Chapel – are hall), for instance, is in for- because of its atmosphere works of art in themselves. bidding gray marble. The rather than its architecture. The chapel, constructed in murals in its interior were Dating back to the 1700s, 1787, is decorated with painted in the late-19th the wihan and bot were some of the best murals century and depict festivals both rebuilt between 1844 of the Rattanakosin period. from the . and 1851. The mondop It also houses the sacred These include elaborate prep- gives the temple its Phra Sihing Buddha arations for the Giant Swing name – Temple of the image, which is one ceremony, people celebrating Great Relic – and has of Thailand’s holiest the annual Loy Krathong a cruciform roof, a images after the water festival (see p37), and rare feature in Emerald Buddha. the famous image of Rama IV Bangkok. It claims to be the observing a solar eclipse. The wat is the original of the The grounds of the wat national center for Sukhothai Buddha Image, three extant pieces contain other notable edifices the Mahanikai National Museum and is crafted in including graceful pavilions, monastic sect, and the Sukhothai Khmer-style prangs, and a it has one of Bangkok’s two style. The Wang Na Palace gray marble chedi (). Buddhist universities (medita- has an eclectic selection of Near Wat Ratchapradit (close tion classes are offered at artifacts from ancient weap- to Khlong Lot), is a gilded 7am, 1pm, and 6pm, near the onry to shadow puppets. boar, a shrine to Queen monks’ quarters). A traditional Two wings of the museum, Saowapha Phongsi. The con- herbal medicine market, and set around Wang Na Palace, sort of Rama V, she was born a weekend market with stalls are devoted to art and sculp- during the year of the boar. are also found here. ture. This section includes several important exhibits such as the Dvaravati Wheel of Law, an 8th-century stone wheel set above a deer repre- senting the Buddha’s first sermon at Sarnath. There is also a handcrafted 14th- century Sukhothai Buddha image in bronze with a red lacquer and gold finish. The works of art in this museum are historically significant as they represent the styles of the Rattanakosin, Sukhothai, Lanna, and Ayutthaya periods. Mural depicting a festival in the main wihan at Wat Ratchapradit Other interesting places

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 63

trained crew of 64. The prow is fashioned as the mythical bird Hongsa. Anantanagaraj, another barge, bearing a mul- tiheaded naga (snake) and a Buddha image on its prow, is used for conveying monks’ robes. Song Suban Rama IX is the first new barge built during Rama IX’s reign.

Wat Rakhang 7 H1FS#$

Soi Wat Rakhang. City Map 1 B5. @ 57, 83. 4 Chang to Wat Rakhang. # daily.

Wat Rakhang was among the last major temples to be constructed by Rama I in the early 19th century. The fine murals in the main wihan Interior of Buddhaisawan Chapel at National Museum were painted between 1922 and 1923 by a monk, Phra include the Gallery of Thai of Ayutthaya-style barges built Wanawatwichit, and depict History which takes visitors over 200 years ago by Rama I recognizable scenes of life in right through the annals of (r.1782–1809). Bangkok. Although the capital Thai history, from the ancient In 1981, most of the royal has changed much, the Grand period to the modern era. barges underwent a face-lift Palace, which stands just The Royal Funeral Chariots and have ever since appeared across the river, is easy to Gallery with its display of in all their glory for auspi- identify. One mural shows the ornate carriages is also worth cious occasions such as the Grand Palace in the middle of a visit. The collection is not 1982 Bangkok Bicentennial an imaginary attack while very well labeled and taking celebrations and the present another one is a portrayal one of the free guided tours king Rama IX’s 60th birthday of an elaborate procession is highly recommended. among others. On such occa- of royal barges. sions, more than 50 barges Rama I used to live in the ho sail down the Chao Phraya trai (wooden library) of Wat Royal Barge River with a crew of about Rakhang, in the west of the 2,000 sea cadets dressed in compound, before he became 6 Museum traditional uniforms. king. The building’s eaves A`A`5C0.sUFlNAFS4po6o$ The central vessel in the support delicately carved museum, Supphanahongsa, bookcases, and the gold and . City Map 1 meaning Golden Swan, is the black doors are period master- B3. Tel 0-2424-0004. @ 7, 9,19. most important royal barge. pieces. Inside the library are 4 longtail boat from Chang. Made from a single piece of murals depicting scenes from # 9am–5pm daily. & ^ teak, it is 165-ft (50-m) long, the Ramakien (see p59) as weighs 15 tons and requires a well as a portrait of Rama I. This is a huge warehouse-like structure that houses a collec- tion of Thailand’s royal barges which had once comprised the naval fleet. The museum also contains paintings of Ayutthaya barges engaged in battles and stately proces- sions, as well as photographs of royal barge ceremonies in Bangkok over the past 150 years. These have often pro- vided representative images for Thailand in postcards and brochures. The vessels are rarely used and have been kept in this museum since 1967. They are reproductions Façade of the raised wooden library at Wat Rakhang 64 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Wat Pho 2 H1YA5`s Officially known as Wat Phra Chetuphon, Wat Pho is not only Bangkok’s oldest and largest temple, but also Thailand’s fore- most center for public education. Unlike the Grand Palace (see pp56–61), it has a lived-in, dilapidated grandeur. In the , Rama I rebuilt the original 16th- century temple on this site and enlarged the complex. In 1832, Rama III built the Chapel of the , and turned the temple into a place of Wihan learning. Today, Wat Pho is a The western wihan is one of four guard traditional medicine center which includes the famous Institute of around the Massage. Nearby, on Chetuphon Road, is the main bot. temple monastery, home to some 300 monks.

. Medicine Pavilion Embedded in the inner walls of this pavilion are stone plaques showing massage points. The pavilion is now a souvenir shop.

The feet of the Reclining Buddha have images repre- senting the 108 lakshanas, signs of the true Buddha.

Small buildings at this end of the wat are reserved for children.

The Phra Si Sanphet Chedi encases the remains of a sacred Buddha image.

. Reclining Buddha The 150-ft (46-m) It is said that this tree long, gilded plaster- grew from a cutting of the and-brick image fills one under which Buddha the whole wihan. meditated in India.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 65

Ceramic Decoration VISITORS’ CHECKLIST This porcelain design is on the Phra Si Sanam Rd. City Map 5 C1. Sanphet Tel 0-2226-0335. @ AC: 25, 32, Chedi. 44, 60, 508. 4 Tien, Chang, Rachinee. # 9am–5pm daily. & 8 Institute of Massage Tel 0-2622-3550-1. # 8:30am– 6pm daily. & Institute of Massage

Main Bot The bot houses a bronze image of a meditating Buddha salvaged from Ayutthaya by Rama I’s brother. Scenes from the Ramakien (see p59) are carved into the outer base and inner doors.

Miniature Mountains This stone mountain by the southern wihan is one of sever- al within the complex. Visitors’ It has statues of entrance naked hermits in different positions of healing massage.

TRADITIONAL MASSAGE Since the 1960s, Wat Pho has run Farang guards the most respected massage stand at the com- school in the city. Nuat paen pound’s inner gates. boran, or traditional Thai mas- These huge stone sage, supposedly dates from the statues with big noses, time of the Buddha and is related beards, and top hats are to Chinese acupuncture and Indian caricatures of Europeans. yoga. The highly trained masseurs at the wat specialize in pulling and stretching the limbs and torso STAR FEATURES to relieve various ailments ranging from general tension to viruses. . Medicine Pavilion Visitors can experience a massage or learn the art through a 10- or A traditional . Reclining Buddha 15-day course in Thai or English. at the Institute of Massage 66 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

or Nayu, the wind god. Between the smaller prangs are painstakingly detailed mondop (altars), each con- taining a statue of the Buddha at various important stages of his life – birth, meditation, preaching his first sermon, and nirvana. The bot (ordination hall), located next to the prangs, houses an imposing image of the Buddha, which is supposed to have been molded by Rama II himself. Two guard- ians, figures from the Ramakien, guard the wat from the front, while the entire complex is guarded by eight yakshas (nature spirits).

Wat Kalayanimit 9 H1 GET0`D`2F

Staircase on the central at Wat Arun, Bangkok Soi Wat Kanlaya. City Map 5 B2. @ 2, 8; AC: 2 to Pak Khlong Talad, Wat Arun 8 ran out and the king had to then cross the river by ferry at the ask his people to donate pier. # 8:30am–4:30pm daily. H1NFi0FT'HFTFTD broken pieces of crockery to complete the edifice; Rama III This temple complex is Arun Amarin Rd. City Map 5 B1. (r.1824–51) introduced this among the five built in @ 19, 57, 83. 4 Tien to Wat Arun. form of ornamentation. The Bangkok by Rama III, who # 7am–5pm daily. & = monument’s style, deriving liked Chinese designs, as can mainly from Khmer archi- be seen from the Chinese-style Named after Aruna, the god tecture, is unique in Thailand. polygonal chedi and the of dawn, Wat Arun is a striking The central prang, reached detailed statuary around the landmark in Bangkok, which by a series of steep steps, courtyard. The statues were looks best when viewed from represents , the brought to Thailand as across the river at sunset. Its mythical home of Hindu gods. ballast on empty rice barges name is derived from a legend Atop the prang is a thunder- returning from China. which says that King Taksin bolt which represents the The complex’s immense (r.1779–82) arrived here at weapon of Indra, god of wihan contains a large image sunrise in October 1767, thunder and rain. Four smaller of the Sitting Buddha. In the from the sacked capital of prangs are located one on temple grounds is the biggest Ayutthaya. He soon enlarged each side of the wat; they bronze bell in Thailand. the tiny temple that stood on contain statues of Phra Phai Near the wat, on the other the site into a Royal Chapel side of Khlong Bangkok Yai, which housed the Emerald is Wichai Prasit Fortress, built Buddha for a while. to guard the river approach Also known as the Olive to Thonburi when Ayutthaya Temple or Temple of Dawn, (see pp40–41) was the the structure was developed dominant city in Thailand. and decorated over the years by Rama I (r.1782–1809) and Rama II (r.1809–24) who are Wat also responsible for the size 0 of the current temple – the Ratchabophit main prang is 260 ft (79 m) H1FT'7A`2F high and the circumference of its base is 768 ft (234 m). The Fuang Nakhon Rd. City Map 2 D5. colorful ceramics which cover Tel 0-2222-3930. @ 2, 60; AC: the prang in enticing details 501, 502, 512. 4 Tien. of gods and demons are # 5am–8pm daily. actually recycled pieces of porcelain that formed the The circular structure of Wat ballast of merchant ships from Thailand’s biggest bronze bell, in Ratchabophit is a successful China. Unfortunately, these the tower of Wat Kalayanimit blend of Eastern and Western

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 67

Wat Suthat and the symmetrical chapels. The Giant Swing q interior murals in the wat are attributed to monk-painter H1Ki4J6sVGSUKT'`$'eT Khrua In Khong, who is famous for the introduction Bamrung Muang Rd. City Map 2 of a Western perspective into E5. Tel 0-2224-9845. @ 10, 12, 19, Thai temple murals. As court 35, 42, 56, 96. # 8:30am– 4pm painter to Rama IV (r.1851– daily (wihan Sat & Sun only). 68), he was exposed to Western ideas and adapted There are several unrivaled these to a Thai setting. The features in the famous Wat result was a series of murals Suthat, a temple that was that on first glance look begun by Rama I in 1807 and wholly European, but which completed by Rama III. Its portray the same Buddhist wihan is the largest in allegories found in traditional Bangkok and its art and Thai murals. For instance, a architecture beautifully mural of a physician healing a exemplify the Rattanakosin blind man can be interpreted Detail of porcelain tiles in the temple style. Its central Buddha, at as symbolic of the illuminating complex at 26 ft (8 m), is one of the power of Buddhism. The largest surviving Sukhothai images are all the more styles. The construction of bronzes. The murals in remarkable for the fact this temple began under the immense wihan are that Khrua In Khong Rama V (r.1868–1910) in 1869 some of the most cele- never traveled to the and continued for over 20 brated in Thailand. West. The main years. The whole complex is Amazingly intricate, Buddha image, Phra splendidly decorated with they depict the Buddha Chinasara, porcelain tiles, which were Traiphum or is one of the best made to order in China. The Buddhist cosmo- examples from the focal point of the wat is the logy and were statue, Sukhothai (see central, Sri Lankan-style, restored in the Wat Suthat p40) period. gilded chedi, whose full 1980s. The beautiful Rama IV served height from the terrace is a teak doors to the wihan are as abbot here during his 27 good 140 ft (43 m). carved in five delicate layers years in monkhood and Inside the wat are four and stand 18 ft (6 m) high. founded the strict Tammayut Buddha images, each facing (The ones carved by Rama II sect of Buddhism, for which one of the cardinal points. are in the National Museum). the temple is now the head- Leading off from the circular The cloister around the outside quarters. Several successors gallery are the bot to the of the wihan is lined with 156 of Rama IV, including the north, the wihan to the south, golden Buddha images. current monarch Rama IX, and two lesser wihans to the The Giant Swing, in the also served their monkhood east and west – an unusual square in front of the wat, here. The temple also houses layout for a Thai wat. stood in that same spot for Thailand’s second Buddhist East-West flourishes 224 years. It was finally university. Across the road permeate the entire complex. moved in 2007 to the from the temple is a Buddhist The 10 door panels and 28 Devasathan temple bookstore that also sells window panels of the bot are and replaced by a new swing English-language publications. decorated with typically Thai which was made from six mother-of-pearl inlay that 100-year-old teak trees. illustrates the insignia of five royal orders, while the mold- ings over the door depict Wat Rama V’s seal. The carved, w painted guards on the doors Bowonniwet are distinctively farang H17HF6^UHJ (European), and the interior is decorated in an incongruous 248 Phra Sumen Rd. City Map 2 D4. Italian Renaissance style. Tel 0-2281-5052. @ 12, 15, 56; AC: Accessible through the 511 (express). # 8am–5pm daily. temple grounds (parallel to Khlong Lot) is a fascinating Hidden in quiet, tree-filled royal cemetery rarely explored grounds, this mid-19th-century by visitors. The monuments to temple was constructed by members of Rama V’s family Rama III. The style bears his are an eccentric yet admirable trademark Chinese influence. mix of Khmer, Thai, and A central gilded chedi within Grounds of Wat Bowonniwet, away European styles. the wat is flanked by two from the main city 68 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

lived as a monk features murals depicting events that occurred during his reign. Wat Benchamabophit is a popular place for witnessing monastic rituals, including Buddhist holiday processions and the daily alms round, in which merit-makers donate food to the monks lined up outside the wat along Nakhon Pathom Road. This is a reversal of the usual practice where the monks go out in search of alms.

Dusit Park r KH61iK^2

See pp70–71.

Dusit Zoo t KH6K2Hg1iK^2‰ U!T1^6

Rama V & Ratchawithi Rds. City Map 3 A2. Tel 0-2281-2000. @ AC: 510, 515. # 8am–6pm daily. & www.zoothailand.org

The Dusit Zoo forms a green wedge in between Dusit Park Singhas guarding the entrance to Wat Benchamabophit and Chitrlada Palace. One of Asia’s better zoos, it has Wat also houses a copy of the reasonable space for birds revered Phitsanulok Phra and mammals such as tigers, Benchamabophit e Phuttha Chinnarat, a 14th- bears, elephants, and hippos, H1U7*%D7A`2F century Buddha image. This although some of the other venerated bronze statue is a enclosures are more confined. 69 Rama V Rd. City Map 3 A3. prime example of late The grounds were originally Tel 0-2282-7413. @ 3, 16, 23, Sukhothai art. The cloister the private gardens of Rama 505. # 8:30am–5:30pm daily. & has 53 different images of the V, and some varieties of Buddha from Thailand and tropical flora are still grown The European influence on other Buddhist countries, here. It is a pleasant walk Thai architecture is exempli- assembled by Rama V. through the lawns, lakes, and fied by Wat Benchamabophit, Inside the wat is one of the wooded glades of this zoo. the last major temple to be three sets of doors inlaid with There are also elephant rides built in central Bangkok. In mother-of-pearl that were and several animal-feeding 1899, Rama V commissioned salvaged from Wat Borom shows which make it an his brother Prince Naris and Buddharam in Ayutthaya. The entertaining day out for locals Italian architect Hercules building in which Rama V as well as visitors. Manfredi to design a new bot and cloister for the original Ayutthaya-period temple which stood on the site. The nickname for the new wat – Marble Temple – is derived from the gray Carrara marble used to clad the walls. Laid out in cruciform with cascading roof levels, the bot is elegantly proportioned. Victorian-style stained-glass windows depict scenes from Thai mythology and represent a fusion of traditions. The bot stores the ashes of Rama V. It Visitors enjoying a ride around Dusit Zoo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 69

it has since been dwarfed quite time consuming and by modern skyscrapers, the requires eight pieces of metal, golden spire is a prominent representing the eight spokes landmark even today. of the wheel of . The Visitors come to Wat Saket first strip is beaten into a to climb the Golden Mount circular form to make the rim. and to attend the fair and Three pieces are then beaten candle-lit procession that is to create a cross-shaped held here every November. frame. Four triangular pieces complete the sides. After being welded in a kiln, the Monk’s Bowl Village bowl is shaped, filed smooth, and fired again to produce u () an enamel-like surface. Just 7eT67T2F about 20 bowls are produced daily in the village. Bamrung Muang Rd, Soi Ban Bat. At the center of this maze City Map 2 F5. @ AC: 508. of alleys is also an unusual shrine, constructed from old The Golden Mount, a distinctive Monks’ bowls were first seen Chinese cylinder bellows. Bangkok landmark 2,500 years ago and are still widely used in many Buddhist Wat Saket and the countries. Such bowls have been made at Monk’s Bowl y Golden Mount Village in Bangkok since the H1KFSU JVGSCjU!T4N$j late 18th century as part of an age-old tradition. The bowls Chakkaphatdi Phong Rd. City Map are mostly used for early 2 F5. @ 8, 15, 37, 47, 49; AC: 38, morning alms gathering. 543. # 7:30am–5:30pm daily. & It is quite hard to find the _ Golden Mount Fair (Nov). village amid the maze of sois especially since it once Built by Rama I in the late stretched as far as Wat Saket, 18th century, Wat Saket is and is now reduced to just one of the oldest temples in four homes and a few small Bangkok. During the 19th workshops. These monks’ century, it served a rather bowls are available at Wat macabre function as a crema- Suthat (see p67) as well. The An artisan shaping pottery at torium where the bodies of process of making bowls is Monk’s Bowl Village the poor were often left as carrion for vultures and dogs. Rama III built the first ROYAL WHITE ELEPHANTS Golden Mount, but the soft The importance of the soil around the structure led chang samkhan (white to its collapse. It was Rama V elephant) in Thailand who provided the necessary derives from a 2,500- technology to create the 250-ft year-old tale. Queen (76-m) high representation of Maya, once barren, the mythical Mount Meru – became pregnant with an artificial hill with a golden the future Buddha after tower on its crest. It is dreaming of a white believed to house relics of the elephant entering her Buddha presented to Rama Manuscript depicting a white elephant womb. Ever since the V by the Viceroy of India. A 13th century, when circular staircase lined with King Ramkhamhaeng (r.1279–1298) gave the animal great monuments and tombs leads prestige, the reigning monarch’s importance has been to the top, where there is a judged in part according to the number of white elephants small sanctuary. The view he owns. Indeed, the white elephant’s status as a national from the gallery takes in the icon was symbolized by its presence on the Siamese flag Grand Palace (see p56–61), until 1917. The origin of the phrase “white elephant”, Wat Pho (see p64–5 ), Wat meaning a large and useless investment, lies in the Thai Arun (see p66), and the octa- tradition according to which all white elephants must gonal Mahakan Fort – among belong to the king. They cannot be used for work and, the 14 pivotal watchtowers of therefore, have to be cared for at a huge expense. Often, the old city. the white elephants are not fully albino. But tradition states Until the 1960s, the Golden that seven parts of their body – the eyes, palate, nails, tail Mount was one of the highest hair, skin, hairs, and testicles – must be near white. points in Bangkok. Although 70 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Dusit Park r KH61iK^2 This magnificent park is the major attraction of the Dusit area. Rama V, the first Thai sovereign to visit Europe, was determined to develop Bangkok after the style of the West, and the manicured gardens, elegant architecture and teak mansions in Dusit Park all bear testimony to his efforts. Topiary at The highlights include Vimanmek – the world’s largest golden teak building and the graceful Abhisek Dusit Royal Ceremonial Photographic Hall built by Rama V Throne Hall, which houses the SUPPORT Museum of traditional arts and crafts. A visit to the park and the neighboring zoo (see p68) can take a whole day.

Royal Elephant Museum Originally a stable for the royal elephants, this museum contains all kinds of paraphernalia including mahouts’ amu- lets, tusks, photos, and a model of the present king’s favorite elephant.

King Bhumibol’s Photographic Museum Most of the photographs on display feature moments from the life of the royal family and many were taken by the current king Rama IX, an avid photographer.

Rank and Portrait Museum

Perimeter

STAR FEATURES Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum . Abhisek Dusit This collection includes the luxurious robes Throne Hall Entrance and of the kings Rama IV and Rama V. There ticket office are also displays of different types of Thai . Vimanmek Mansion silk from all over the country.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 71

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall . VISITORS’ CHECKLIST This hall is a beautifully ornamented white edifice. The City Map 2 F2. Tel 0-2628- major attraction inside is the 6300-9. @ 56, 70; AC: 70, SUPPORT Museum, with its 510, 515. # 9am–4pm daily. large collection of traditional ¢ for royal ceremonies. & artifacts, such as works using Royal Mansion ticket (valid for 30 days) includes admission to the exquisitely colored wings of Dusit Park and all buildings. ^ jewel beetles. Vimanmek Mansion # 9:30am–3:15 pm daily (tickets sold till 3pm). 8 SUPPORT Museum # 9:30am– 3:15pm daily. Canal

Bridge

Lakeside Pavilion An elegant pavilion behind Vimanmek Mansion offers a great view across the lake to some particularly fine traditional Thai houses. The further bank is, however, closed to visitors.

. Vimanmek Mansion Built more in the style of a Colonial mansion rather than a Thai palace, this three-storied, golden teak struc- ture was built using wooden pegs Old Clock Museum instead of nails. The palace is full of intriguing artifacts.

Royal Carriage Museum This contains the royal Royal family’s collection of Ceremonial Photographic unusual and interesting Hall vehicles. There are two

0 meters 50 long stables lined with several antique cars and 0 yards 50 ceremonial carriages. 72 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Phahurat Market i vegetables. Known for offering 2GT1ATLiF1 the best array of flowers in Thailand, it is a florist’s one- Phahurat-Chak Phet Rd. City Map 6 stop shop. Blooms arrive from D1. @ 6, 37, 82, 88; AC: 3, 82. 1am onward and by dawn roses, orchids, lotus, jasmine, This predominantly Indian and Dutch tulips are on dis- market offers all the sights . The widest variety can and smells of India. The main be seen at 9am. Visitors can bazaar, around Phahurat and buy bouquets or floral basket Chak Phet roads, specializes arrangements from here. in fabrics. Along these roads, cloth merchants sell every- p thing from tablecloths to Chinatown wedding saris. This is an ideal 2GT1UETHFT' place to look out for tradi- The bustling with tional Indian accessories such Yaowarat Rd. City Map 6 E1. Chinese signage, Chinatown as sandals, jewelry, and an @ AC: 501, 512. 4 Rachinee, Pak eclectic selection of spices Khlong. # daily. a and incense. In the surround- Wat Traimit ing streets are delicious hole- Generally called Yaowarat by H1W2FD`2F in-the-wall Indian restaurants the Thais, this historic area is and samosa stalls. Off Chak centered on and around Tri Mit Rd. City Map 6 F2. @ 1, 4, Phet road is Shri Guru Singh Yaowarat Road, Ratchawong 11, 25, 53, 73; AC: 501, 507. Sabha, a Sikh temple. Road, and Sampeng Lane. The # 9am– 5pm daily. area is evocative of Bangkok’s past and the dominant com- Also called the Temple of the Pak Khlong mercial role played by the Golden Buddha, Wat Traimit city’s ethnic Chinese popu- houses the world’s largest o Market lation over the last 200 years. solid gold Buddha. This 13-ft 8T "GN$2GT1 A plethora of gold stores, (4-m) high, 13th-century traditional Chinese medicine Sukhothai image, is made of Maharaj Rd. City Map 5 C2. shops, bustling street markets, 18 carat gold and weighs five @ AC: 501, 512. 4 Rachinee, Pak and beautiful temples dedi- tons. It was discovered by Khlong. # daily. cated to any or all of the san accident, in 1955, by workers jiao (three ) of of the East Asiatic Company. Open 24 hours a day, Pak Mahayana Buddhism, Taoism, Local Chinese residents Khlong Market provides the and Confucianism, make the come here to worship the city with fresh flowers and area well worth a visit. Golden Buddha and to make merit by rubbing a gold leaf on the temple’s smaller Buddha images.

Hua Lampong Station s K3T6pLHGYA$

Rama IV Rd. City Map 7 A2. Tel 0-2223-3786. @ 4, 21, 25, 29, 34, 40, 48, 109; AC: 501, 507, 529. q Hua Lampong.

Rama V, a great champion of modernization, was the propagator of rail travel in Thailand. The first railroad line, begun in 1891, was a private line from Pak Nam to Hua Lampong. Today, this historic station is Bangkok’s main rail junction. From here, trains leave for the north, northeast, the central plains, and the south. The city’s other station, Bangkok Noi, Vendor selling a wide range of chilies, Pak Khlong Market was rebuilt in 2003.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 73

The Chinese in Bangkok The first of the Chinese immigrants that by the mid-19th century, half arrived in Thailand as merchants of Bangkok’s population was of in the 12th century. During the pure or mixed Chinese blood. late 18th and early 19th There have been periods of centuries, following years of anti-Chinese feeling and war in Thailand (see p41), immigration restrictions, but Chinese immigration was Dual-language shop the Chinese still dominate encouraged in order to help sign in Chinatown Thailand’s commercial sector. rebuild the economy. The At the same time, Chinese subsequent integration of the Chinese traditions and beliefs remain strong in into Thai society was so successful their communities.

CHINESE SHOPHOUSES Shophouses are a common feature in Chinatown. The family lives on the first floor, which usually has a large living room and a ceramic-tiled floor. The ground floor is devoted to the family business, whether it is a small workshop or a store selling food or other household goods.

The front veranda joins to form a sheltered walkway called the five-foot way.

Dim sum, which means touch the heart, can be sampled in many of the area’s Chinese restau- rants. These bite-size snacks include shrimp toast and pork dumplings. Sign painting is not just a decorative art form. These good Leng Noi Yee Temple in luck messages, written in gold, are Bangkok is an important said to ward off evil and sickness. Mahayana Buddhist They are displayed in great num- shrine that also incorpo- bers during the Chinese New Year. rates elements of Taoism and Confucianism. The temple, with its glazed ceramic gables topped by Chinese dragons, is the fo- cal point of the Vegetarian Festival (see p227).

“Hell’s banknotes”, are a form of kong tek – paper replicas of real objects, , performed by burned to provide traveling troupes, features martial for the dead during arts, acrobatics, singing, and dance. their next life. 74 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

the opposite bank, one of the fake fashions, gives the area hotel’s highly acclaimed a thin veneer of respectability. restaurants. Here, guests can A bookstore in the center of enjoy khon performances (see Patpong is one of Southeast pp26–7) as they dine. The Asia’s major outlets for all hotel also runs a respected kinds of books. Many visitors school of Thai cookery. come to Patpong out of curi- osity rather than to indulge in the flesh trade. Patpong f A/6A$Iq s Lumphini Park g Silom Rd, Patpong 1 and 2. City KH6GiDA`6p Map 7 C3. @ AC: 76, 177, 504, 514. £ Daeng (skytrain). City Map 8 D3. @ 14; AC: 50, 507. Q Silom. £ (skytrain). Q Silom, Lumphini. # 5:30am–9pm daily. The streets of Patpong 1 and 2, named after Chinese million- Named after the Buddha’s Neo-Classical façade of the Authors’ aire Khun Patpongpanit, birthplace, Bangkok’s main Wing of the Mandarin Oriental owner of the properties in the greenbelt sprawls around two area, comprise what is boating lakes. The best Mandarin probably the world’s time to visit the park is most notorious red- usually early morning, d Oriental light district. In the when it is used by YF$VFDYNUFpE6U2rG 1960s, the area Thais for jogging and was the home of by Chinese for 48 Oriental Ave, off Charoen Krung Bangkok’s entertain- practising tai chi Rd. City Map 6 F4. Tel 0-2659- ment scene – the chuan. The super- 9000. @ 35, 75. 4 Oriental. go-go bars sprang up Poster inside a stitious can be seen www.mandarinoriental.com to satisfy airline crews go-go bar consuming fresh and US GIs on leave snake blood and bile, Repeatedly voted the world’s during the Vietnam War. Since purchased from stalls placed best hotel for its service and the 1970s, the sex shows have along the park’s northern attention to detail, Mandarin been sustained mainly through edge, to keep ill health at bay. Oriental was Thailand’s first tourist patronage. A less Lumphini Park is a relaxing large hotel. It was established visible homosexual scene place to take a stroll, observe in 1876 and completely rebuilt exists in adjacent Silom Soi 4, elderly Chinese people play in 1887. New wings have while Soi Taniya’s hostess chess, and impromptu games since been added. The hotel bars are frequented mainly of takraw, a type of volleyball owes much of its charm to by Japanese clients. that does not allow the use of the Armenian Sarkies brothers, The Department of Tourist hands. Dominating the Silom creators of the luxurious Police monitors Patpong, and Roadside of the park is an Raffles Hotel in Singapore. the area is surprisingly safe. A imposing statue of Rama VI Mandarin Oriental’s status, night market, with stalls selling (r.1910–25), who ordered the lavish decor, and spectacular souvenirs, and original and creation of the park. setting on the banks of the Chao Phraya River account for its elevated prices. The hotel’s original white- shuttered wing contains the renowned Authors’ Suites. Somerset Maugham, the acclaimed author, stayed here in the 1920s. Recovering from a bout of malaria, he wrote of the “dust and heat and noise and whiteness and more dust” of Bangkok, although his per- ception of the city changed once he was able to explore the wats and khlongs. Classic, English-style high tea is served in the Authors’ Lounge, a riot of potted plants and fan-back- ed wicker chairs. A teak barge shuttles back and forth to the Sala Rim Naam (see p321) on Early morning visitors relaxing by a lake, Lumphini Park

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 75

houses were assembled in the 1950s, within a lush garden landscaped out of a suan pakkad, or cabbage patch, that gives the palace its name. Each building has been con- verted into a museum, and together they house an impressive collection of art and artifacts belonging to the royal couple. The eclectic assortment ranges from Khmer sculpture, betel nut sets, and pieces of antique lacquered furniture, to Thai musical instruments and Dancers in traditional Thai performing at Erawan Shrine exquisite shells and crystals. Most important, perhaps, is the Erawan Shrine h Jim Thompson’s first-class collection of whorl- JTGAFSAFLDUNFTHk0 House j patterned red and white Bronze Age pottery, excavated Ratchadamri Rd. City Map 8 D1. 7eT6%`D4ND8sKk6 from tombs at Ban Chiang in @ AC: 501, 504, 505. £ northeast Thailand. The high- See pp76–7. Ratchadamri or Siam (skytrain). light is the Lacquer Pavilion, which was built from two Drivers take their hands off exquisite temple buildings the steering wheel to wai (a Suan Pakkad retrieved by Prince Chumbhot gesture of respect) as they Palace k from the Ayutthaya province. pass the Erawan Shrine; such Immaculately crafted, black is the widespread faith in the Hk$KH69k T1 and gold lacquered murals luck that this landmark brings. inside each edifice depict The construction of the orig- 352 Si Ayutthaya Rd. City Map 4 scenes from the Buddha’s life inal Erawan Hotel in the D4. Tel 0-2245-4934. £ Phaya Thai and the Ramakien (see p59). 1950s, on the site now (skytrain). @ AC: 201, 513. They also portray ordinary occupied by the Grand Hyatt # 9am–4pm daily. & 8 www. Thai life from just before the Erawan Hotel, was plagued suanpakkad.com fall of Ayutthaya, in 1767. by a series of mishaps. In These are some of the only order to counteract the bad This palace, a group of five murals to survive that period. spirits believed to be causing traditional teak houses, was Scenes include foreign traders the problems, this shrine dedi- originally the home of Prince exchanging goods, battles, and cated to Indra, the god of rain and Princess Chumbhot. The gruesome depictions of hell. and thunder, and his elephant mount, Erawan, was erected in front of the hotel. Ever since, the somewhat gaudy monument has been decked with garlands, carved wooden elephants, and other offerings in the hope of, or thanks for, good fortune. Women dancers in beautiful, traditional costumes can occasionally be paid by devotees to dance for the deity. This is a way of expressing gratitude for some recent good fortune or even a fulfilled wish. Near the shrine, and along Phloen Chit and Rama I roads toward the north and east, are several of Bangkok’s most well-known and upscale shop- ping complexes (see pp80– 81), including Siam Central, CentralWorld, Erawan, Gaysorn Plaza, , , and the swankiest of them all, the . The elegant façade of the Lacquer Pavilion, Suan Pakkad Palace 76 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Jim Thompson’s House j 7†T6%`D4ND8qK6 One of the best preserved Thai houses in Bangkok and finest museums in the country is the former home of Jim Thompson (b.1906). An enterprising American, Thompson revived the art Master of weaving, which had waned Fine 19th-century paintings of before World War II. His house is in a the jataka tales line the walls flower garden across the ancient silk of the master bedroom. Spirit House weavers’ quarter of . In 1959, in the garden Thompson dismantled six teak houses in Ban Khrua and Ayutthaya and reassembled them here in an unconventional layout. An avid collector of antiques and art from all over Second Southeast Asia, his extensive array, which spans 14 floor centuries, is well displayed, and left as it was when he mysteriously disappeared in 1967. Unlike many First floor Guest other home museums, this one feels lived in.

. Jataka Paintings This panel, in the entrance hall, is one of eight early 19th- century paintings in the house showing scenes from the Vessantara jataka (see p24). These show Prince Vessantara as Buddha’s incarnation.

. Burmese Carvings Wooden figures of animist Nat spirits are part of an extensive collection of Burmese images. Buddhism in Burma incorpo- One of six traditional rated pre-existing teak houses worship of Nat spirits.

KEY TO FLOOR PLAN Bedrooms Study Entrance hall STAR EXHIBITS Drawing room . Jataka Paintings Dining room Secure room . Burmese Carvings Bencharong room View from the Terrace . Dvaravati Torso of Silk Pavilion The terrace offers great views the Buddha of Khlong Saen Sap, the gar- Other exhibition space den surrounding the house.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp290–94 and pp318–22 BANGKOK 77

Drawing Room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Carved wooden figures of Burmese 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd. City spirits from the Map 3 C5. Tel 0-2216-7368. 18th-century £ National Stadium (skytrain). @ adorn the alcoves 15, 48, 204; AC: 508. # 9am– 5pm daily. in the drawing & 8^0 = room. Soft silk cushions in various hues give the place a colorful appeal.

The khlong (canal) was once used by silk weavers, who dried threads of silk on poles along the banks.

Dining Room Precious blue and white por- celain fills the cabinets along the walls in the dining room.

. Dvaravati Torso of the Buddha A torso of the Buddha, made of limestone, stands in the garden. Dating from the early Dvaravati period (6th century), it is said to be one of the oldest surviving Buddha statues in Southeast Asia.

Spirit house with offerings

WHO WAS JIM THOMPSON? An architect by profession, Thailand’s most famous American came here in 1945 as the Bangkok head of the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), a forerunner of the CIA. In 1948, he founded the Thai Silk Company Ltd, turning the ailing industry into a thriving business once again. Thompson Entrance became a social celebrity in Bangkok and finally achieved mythical status following his disappearance on Easter Sunday in 1967 while walking in the Cameron The steep roofs of traditional Highlands in Malaysia. Explanations for teak houses are ideal for his vanishing include falling from a path ventilation, and the inward or having a heart attack to more sinister Jim Thompson inspect- leaning walls create a greater suggestions of CIA involvement. ing Thai silk in 1964 sense of height. 78 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Farther Afield secondhand jeans. The plant section provides a good intro- Many interesting sights lie outside central Bangkok. duction to Thai flora, while the Extending eastward is Sukhumvit Road, with a plethora food stalls display every con- of shops, restaurants, small galleries, and museums. ceivable ingredient of Thai Shopaholics will certainly not want to miss the bustling food. The antiques and hill- Chatuchak Market, perhaps the largest open-air market tribe handicrafts sections sell a good selection of artifacts in the world, selling everything from handicrafts to live and textiles, both fake and animals. The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, south- genuine, from all over west of the center, is a market for fresh products, sold Thailand as well as neigh- mostly by women, on small, flat boats. The Crocodile boring countries. Farm displays various species of crocodiles from across The market is also referred the world and reptile wrestling is a major attraction. to as the “wildlife supermarket of the world”, owing to some

 endangered species, such as   leaf monkeys, being illegally  5IB$IJO %PO.VFBOH sold here. Fortunately, such

#BO /BLIPO   .JO 1POH 1BUIPN  trade is now on the decline. /POUIBCVSJ #VSJ     Sukhumvit Road 2

#BOH   1IBF  366Ki!iDH`4   ,SBUIVN   5IPOCVSJ  #BFO  Road Map C1. Phra Khanong 3BUDIBCVSJ 4BNVU district. £ @ AC: 38, 501, 508, 1SBLBO 4BNVU  511, 513. 4BLIPO 4VWBSOBCIVNJ  0 km 6  This road begins at the

  eastern end of Bangkok’s 0 miles 6 downtown and continues all the way to the Cambodian KEY SIGHTS AT A GLANCE border in (see Central Bangkok Chatuchak Market 1 p117). In Bangkok, it is the 3 main thoroughfare of an Built-up area Crocodile Farm Damnoen Saduak expanding business quarter International airport popular with foreigners. Floating Market 4 Although a long way from Expressway Sukhumvit Road 2 Bangkok’s best-known sights, Major road the area has numerous good occupy the space of over five quality, moderately priced Minor road football fields. It is always hotels and restaurants, and a filled with eager shoppers, few attractions of its own. many of whom spend a Foremost of these is the Chatuchak whole day browsing among Siam Society, which was the large variety of products founded in the early 1900s by 1 Market on display. Goods range from a group of Thais and foreign 2GT1%2i% F seafood to antiques, and from residents under the patronage Siamese fighting fish to of Rama VI, to research, Road Map C1. . rediscover, and preserve Thai £ Mo Chit (Skytrain). @ AC: 38, culture. Within the grounds 502, 503, 509, 510, 512, 517, 518, are two traditional teakwood 521, 523. Q Kampangphet. n TAT, northern Thai houses that Bangkok (1672). # 7am–6pm comprise the country’s only Sat & Sun. genuine ethnological museum. The Kamthieng Thailand’s biggest market is House, a farm dwelling, was held each weekend in a transported piece by piece in northern suburb of Bangkok, the 1960s to Bangkok from between the Northern Bus the bank of the Ping River, Terminal and Bang Sue near Chiang Mai, in northern Railroad Station. The market Thailand. The Sangaroon moved to this location in 1982 House is a later addition because it had outgrown its donated by the architect original site on Sanam Luang Sangaroon Ratagasikorn who (see pp54–5). Now, it is a – inspired by the utilitarian chaotic collection of over Buddha images for sale at the beauty of rural utensils – 6,000 stalls, which together Chatuchak market, Bangkok amassed a sizable collection.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p294 and pp321–2 BANGKOK 79

Also on the grounds is a reference library on Thai culture, open to visitors. The Journal of the Siam Society, available in the library, is one of Asia’s most respected publications on art history, culture, and society. Located next to the Eastern Bus Terminal, the Bangkok Planetarium, traces the history of space travel. It also includes an aquarium as well as a computer world. The sprawling King’s Royal Park, inaugurated on the 60th birthday of Rama IX, the reigning monarch, is farther out toward Samut Prakan Reconstructed traditional living area in Kamthieng House, Sukhumvit Road province. With its botanical gardens and area for creatures’ mouths. A souvenir Damnoen Saduak. On the watersports, this park is one shop nearby sells a variety of parallel khlong, a short way of Bangkok’s most pleasant crocodile skin products such south, is Hia Kui, where oases. The park also has an bags and key rings. structures anchored to the exhibition on the king’s life. banks function as warehouses selling souvenirs to large tour  Siam Society Damnoen Saduak groups. Further south, on 131 Soi Asoke, Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 21. a smaller khlong, is Khun Tel 0-2661-6470. # Tue–Sat. 4 Floating Market Phitak, the least crowded www.siam-society.org 2GT16w1U6`6KS1H of the three markets.  Bangkok Planetarium Most vendors, mainly 928 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel 0-2392- Road Map C1. 1 mile (2 km) W of women, paddle around in 5951. Tue–Sun. public # ¢ Damnoen Saduak, Ratchaburi sampan (rowing boats) hols. & province. £ c 4 or join tour from wearing mo homs (traditional Y King’s Royal Park Bangkok. # 4am–11am daily. farmers’ shirts) and a ngop Soi Udomsuk, Sukhumvit Rd, Soi n TAT, Phetchaburi (0-3247-1005). (traditional hat). They sell 103. Tel 0-2328-1385. # daily. farm-fresh produce, including

& 0 In contrast to the numerous fruit, vegetables, and spices. floating markets in Bangkok Some vendors also sell that are now organized solely souvenir straw hats as well 3 Crocodile Farm for the benefit of tourists, this as refreshments. BTFqD%FSU!e‰ is a more authentic example. The best way of getting Located 62 miles (100 km) around the three markets is Road Map C1. Old Sukhumvit southwest of Bangkok, the by boat – trips can be taken Highway, . market is a labyrinth of along the khlongs and to the Tel 0-2703-4891. @ AC: 511 to narrow khlongs (canals) and nearby coconut plantations. Samut Prakan, then songthaew, or actually comprises three The best time to arrive is join tour from Bangkok. # 8am– separate markets. The largest, between 7am and 9am, when 5pm daily. & = Ton Khem, is on Khlong the market is in full swing.

The largest among Thailand’s (and, supposedly, the world’s) crocodile farms, this breeding park, or zoo, is home to some 30,000 reptiles. Fresh and salt- water species, from South American caimans to fierce crocodiles from the Nile, can all be seen here. The farm also has the biggest crocodile ever kept in captivity – a 20-ft (6-m) long reptile weighing over 2,200 lb (1,000 kg). The highlight of the farm is the hourly show during which visitors can see handlers wrestle with crocodiles, even putting their heads in the Crocodile wrestling show at the Crocodile Farm 80 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

SHOPPING IN BANGKOK angkok is regarded great deals to be had. as a shoppers’ para- Visitors enjoy bargaining Bdise with its many in the open-air markets, retail outlets, high quality Shopping where vendors often drop products, and surprisingly good center sign their prices by 50 percent or bargains. Staff in department more. However, it is better to stores are attentive, and whether it is avoid the heat and humidity of mid- designer clothes, traditional crafts, or afternoon, and limit the buying spree electronic equipment, there are some to one or two locations per day.

to be the world’s largest open-air market. Impossible to cover in a day, prudent visitors are selective about the places they see. Bangkok’s night markets in the Khao San, Patpong, and Sukhumvit Sois 3–15 regions consist of stalls set up each evening on the sidewalk. They make it possible to com- bine souvenir shopping with dining and clubbing, for vis- Shoppers visiting the huge Siam Paragon mall itors who are short on time.

PRACTICAL revamped CentralWorld Plaza INFORMATION is Southeast Asia’s largest shopping complex. Another Opening hours are usually favorite shopping destination early morning to mid- is Siam Paragon, where any- afternoon in fresh markets, thing from a sports car to a 10am–10pm in shopping malls, bowl of noodles is available and 24 hours in convenience for a price. Mahboonkrong stores. Credit cards are (or MBK) is more like a street accepted in shopping malls market spread over eight and modern boutiques, but floors. Other centrally located market vendors expect cash malls are Siam Central and payment. VAT refunds are Siam Discovery, Emporium, possible, but the shop where Silom Complex, Amarin Plaza, the item is bought must fill Gaysorn Plaza, and Erawan. Colorful display of authentic silk out a form for customs, which products at the Jim Thompson can be time consuming, so it MARKETS is only worth while for signifi- SILK AND COTTON cant savings. Bargaining is No self-respecting shopaholic expected at street stalls and can claim to know Bangkok Thai silk is renowned for its markets, but prices are fixed without going to the city’s high quality, unique designs, in department stores and bou- vast Chatuchak Market, said and reasonable price. In the tiques. For more information, night markets, some items see pages 334–7. that claim to be silk are, in fact, made of synthetic fabric. SHOPPING DISTRICTS It pays to visit a reputable shop, such as Jim Thompson, Boutiques and markets are which has outlets in many top scattered all over the city, but hotels, to ensure the authen- there is a high concentration ticity of products. Those who of shopping outlets around have an eye for the real thing , Silom, Phloen can head for the crowded Chit, and Sukhumvit Roads. Phahurat Market, where prices are much lower. SHOPPING MALLS Thai cotton is also a good deal. The eye-catching designs Leading the way in the race on items such as bedspreads to be Bangkok’s best and Brightly lit stalls selling various and cushion covers make biggest mall, the newly goods, night market at Patpong distinctive souvenirs. SHOPPING IN BANGKOK 81

CLOTHES often exposed to sophisticated scams. Serious shoppers may With prices only a fraction of want to browse through the what they are in the West, it glittering displays of jewelry at makes sense to stock up on Peninsula Plaza or the gem clothes, either off-the-peg in boutiques at reliable hotels. shopping malls or tailor- made. Tailors abound in all ELECTRONIC GOODS tourist areas, but workman- ship varies, so it is better to Lacquerware items and wooden Computer equipment, video visit a reputable tailor such as carvings at Chatuchak Market games, cameras, and mobile Ah Song or Marzotto, and phones are on sale in shop- allow several days for prepa- THAI CRAFTS ping malls throughout the ration and fittings. city, but one place that spe- From silverware to celadon, cializes in such goods is ANTIQUES lacquerware to woodcarvings, . Customers and basketry to hand-woven should be aware that some So-called ancient craft items textiles, Thailand has a rich items on sale, such as soft- are available in many shops, variety of crafts. Good places ware, are pirated and offer but few of these are genuine to see a wide range of crafts no money-back guarantee. antiques, for which a permit include Chatuchak Market, from the Fine Arts Department Phand, Silom BOOKS is required for export. A cou- Village, and Nandakwang. ple of reliable outlets are the Book addicts should explore River City Complex, which has GEMS AND JEWELRY the massive selection at any four floors of antique furni- one of the outlets of Asia ture, carvings, and old maps, As with antiques, extreme Books and Kinokuniya Books. and Oriental Plaza, with rare caution should be exercised Other bookstore chains with collectibles such as beautiful when buying gems or jewelry, outlets in central Bangkok are sculptures and prints. since potential customers are B2S and Bookazine.

DIRECTORY SHOPPING MALLS Siam Central and Marzotto GEMS AND Siam Discovery 3 Soi Shangri-La Hotel, JEWELRY Amarin Plaza Rama I Rd. Charoen Krung Rd. Phloen Chit Rd. Peninsula Plaza City Map 7 C1. City Map 6 F5. Ratchadamri Rd. City Map 8 E1. Tel 0-2658-1000. Tel 0-2233-2880. City Map 8 D1. Tel 0-2256-9111. Siam Paragon Tel 0-2253-9762. CentralWorld Plaza Rama I Rd. ANTIQUES City Map 7 C1. Ratchadamri Rd. ELECTRONIC Tel 0-2690-1000. Oriental Plaza GOODS City Map 8 D1. Charoen Krung Rd. Silom Complex Tel 0-2635-1111. City Map 6 F4. Pantip Plaza www..co.th Silom Rd. Phetchaburi Rd. City Map 8 D4. River City Complex City Map 4 D5. Emporium Tel 0-2231-3333. 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng Sukhumvit Sois 24–26. Yotha Rd. BOOKS MARKETS Tel 0-2664-8000. City Map 6 F3. Asia Books www.emporium Tel 0-2237-0077. Chatuchak Market Sukhumvit Soi 15–19 thailand.com Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd. One of several branches. THAI CRAFTS Erawan SILK AND COTTON B2S Phloen Chit Rd. Nandakwang CentralWorld Plaza, City Map 8 E1. Jim Thompson Sukhumvit Soi 23. Ratchadamri Rd. Tel 0-2250-7777. 9 Surawong Rd. City Map Tel 0-2258-1962. City Map 8 D1. 7 C3. Tel 0-2632-8100. One of several branches. Gaysorn Plaza Narayana Phand Phahurat Market Phloen Chit Rd. Ratchadamri Rd. Bookazine Phahurat. City Map 6 D1. Silom Complex, Silom Rd. City Map 8 E1. City Map 8 D1. City Map 8 D4. Tel 0-2656-1149. Tel 0-2252-4670. CLOTHES One of several branches. Mahboonkrong Ah Song Silom Village Kinokuniya Books Phaya Thai Rd. 1203 Charoen Krung Rd. Silom Rd. Siam Paragon City Map 7 B1. City Map 7 A4. City Map 7 A4. City Map 7 C1. Tel 0-2217-9111. Tel 0-2233-7574 Tel 0-2234-4448. One of several branches. 82 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

ENTERTAINMENT IN BANGKOK angkok provides a fantastic the city’s trendy cocktail bars. Many range of entertainment, from of the pubs and restaurants offer Bclassical puppet theater to live music, ranging from traditional nightclubs. One of the most popu- Thai ballads to rock classics, while lar choices for short-stay visitors is a the city’s clubs are a musical melt- cultural show accompanied by a Thai ing pot where locals and foreigners meal, but there are plenty of alter- find common ground. It is best to natives, such as transvestite cabaret plan out journeys in order to beat shows or an unusual drink at one of Bangkok’s notorious traffic snarls.

outcome of muay thai matches, and cheer excitedly for their chosen fighter. At Ratchadamnoen Stadium and Lumphini Stadium, spec- tators can watch the boxers prepare for their matches with slow, concentrated movements to the accompani- ment of wailing instruments.

CINEMAS

It may seem strange to travel all the way to Thailand and end up going to the cinema, A traditional Thai puppet show at Joe Louis Theater but with the air-conditioned interiors, comfortable seats, GENERAL INFORMATION cabaret location is Calypso and cheap prices, cinema Cabaret. For performances can be the antidote to a For information about daily of khon, or classical masked tiring shopping spree or a events, visitors can consult drama, the Sala Chalermkrung day spent sightseeing. Most English-language newspapers Theater and the National modern cinemas are located such as the Bangkok Post and Theater are good options. in shopping malls, such as the The Nation, or pick up one of Puppet shows may seem Paragon Cineplex in Siam the free magazines, such as like children’s entertainment, Paragon and BKK, that are distributed at but the puppeteers at the Joe in CentralWorld Plaza, tourist spots. Tickets for Louis Theater are so accom- although a few independent events are usually easy to plished that most adults will theaters still exist, such as the come by. Visitors can ask at be as enthralled as their kids. Scala and Lido in Siam the hotel desk or a travel Square, which occasionally agent, or go online and take a MUAY THAI show arthouse cinema or look at the websites designed independent films. The Thai to help travelers. For more To enjoy a more visceral kind national anthem is played information, see pp338–41. of entertainment, visitors can before the screening of every head to the local Thai boxing film, and everyone is expected CULTURAL SHOWS ring. muay thai (Thai kick- to stand, including foreigners. AND THEATER boxing) is the national sport, Travelers can also log on to which draws in a large crowd. websites to get more infor- The nightly show at Siam Spectators usually bet on the mation and film listings. Niramit is quite a cultural extravaganza, which features spectacular sets and more than 500 elaborately dressed dancers. More intimate per- formances take place at the riverside Patravadi Theater, where traditional and modern dance techniques are fused to great effect. Classical dance shows with buffet or à la carte dinners can be enjoyed at Sala Rim Nam and Silom Village, while the city’s top The brightly lit exterior of Major Cineplex at CentralWorld Plaza ENTERTAINMENT IN BANGKOK 83

and despite being a cramped the Telephone Pub. The main space, the crowds keep areas in Bangkok famous for pouring in and even spill on their hostess and go-go bars to the sidewalk. The super- are the infamous Patpong, chic Sky Bar is where the , and . city’s glitterati sip cocktails This is the other side of the and admire the view from the nightlife in Bangkok and 63rd floor. Many bars feature many people visit these spots live bands in an effort to draw out of curiosity. However, it is in the crowds – for example, best to avoid the seamier bars Saxophone offers a heady in Patpong, where scams mix of jazz, blues, and reg- have often left many foreign gae, while Hard Rock Café visitors with empty wallets. has bands playing covers of rock classics. Visitors can dance till late at a number of clubs such as Bed Supperclub, Lively dance floor at the popular Q Bar, DJ Station, and Café Bed Supperclub Democ. Those looking for a more sophisticated and BARS AND NIGHTCLUBS elegant environment should make their way to Diplomat Bangkok has an astonishing Bar, Moon Bar, or Syn Bar. range of bars to cater to dif- Bangkok has long been ferent tastes. There is the known for its liberal attitude hole-in-the-wall Ad Here the toward alternative sexual 13th, with an in-house band preferences, and Silom has a Posh environs for live rock music that plays soulful blues music number of gay bars, such as and cocktails, Hard Rock Cafe

DIRECTORY CULTURAL SHOWS Siam Niramit Paragon Cineplex Hard Rock Café AND THEATER Ratchada Theater, Siam Paragon, Siam Square. 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd. Rama I Rd. City Map 7 C1. Calypso Cabaret Tel 0-2649-9222. City Map 7 C1. Tel 0-2251-0797. Asia Hotel, Phaya Thai Rd. Tel 0-2515-5555. Silom Village Moon Bar City Map 3 C5. Scala Silom Rd. Banyan Tree Hotel, Tel 0-2216-8973. Siam Square. City Map 7 A4. South Sathorn Rd. City Map 7 C1. Joe Louis Theater Tel 0-2234-4448. City Map 8 D4. Tel 0-2251-2861. Suan Lum Night Bazaar, Tel 0-2679-1200. Rama IV Rd. MUAY THAI BARS AND Q Bar City Map 8 E4. NIGHTCLUBS Sukhumvit Soi 11. Tel 0-2252-9683. Lumphini Stadium Rama IV Rd. Ad Here the 13th Tel 0-2252-3274. National Theater City Map 8 E4. 13 Samsen Rd. Saxophone Rachinee Rd. Tel 0-2251-4303. City Map 2 D3. 3/8 Victory Monument. City Map 2 D5. Tel 08-9769-4613 Ratchadamnoen City Map 4 E3. Tel 0-2224-1342. Stadium Bed Supperclub Tel 0-2246-5472. Sukhumvit Soi 11. Patravadi Theater Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd. Sky Bar 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang. Tel 0-2651-3537. City Map 2 F3. 63rd Floor, lebua at City Map 1 B5. Tel 0-2281-4205. Café Democ , Silom Rd. Tel 0-2412-7287. Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. City Map 7 B4. CINEMAS City Map 2 E4. Sala Chalermkrung Tel 0-2624-9555. Tel 0-2622-2571. Theater Lido Syn Bar Diplomat Bar Charoen Krung Rd. Siam Square. Swissotel Nai Lert Park, Conrad Hotel, City Map 6 D1. City Map 7 C1. Wireless Rd. Wireless Rd. Tel 0-2222-0434. Tel 0-2252-6498. 8 E1. City Map 8 E2. City Map Sala Rim Nam Major Cineplex Tel 0-2690-9999. Tel 0-2253-0123. The Mandarin Oriental, CentralWorld Plaza, DJ Station Telephone Pub 48 Oriental Avenue. Ratchadamri Rd. Silom Soi 2. Silom Soi 4. City Map 6 F4. City Map 8 D1. City Map 7 C4. City Map 7 C4. Tel 0-2659-9000. Tel 0-2635-1111. Tel 0-2266-4029. Tel 0-2234-3279. 84 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

BANGKOK STREET FINDER ap references for wats, reference on that map. The lack entertainment venues of standard transliterations for Mand other attrac- Thai words means that street tions in Bangkok refer to names listed here will not the Street Finder maps on always match those seen the following pages. Map on street signs. Most The quickest way to get references are also provided around Bangkok thanons (major roads) for hotels (see pp290–94) have many numbered and restaurants (see pp318–22) in (and sometimes named) sois and troks Bangkok. The first figure in the map (minor roads and lanes) leading from reference indicates which Street Finder them. Symbols used for sights and map to turn to, and the letter and useful information are displayed in number which follow give the grid the key below.

 / 3"5$)"8*5)* *  ) ( 5 / 0 0 : 8   /   0  4  &$ ) *5 0 " / / ) " % 1 4   4  3"5$)"8*5)* 5" / ( " 4".4&/ & 3 /0,  & " 9 ) 1 $ 4 3 0 8 &4 . * 4 4 $USIT 8 6 % ": & 5 5 4 1 , ) " 1)*54"/6-0, : 3 4 4 " 5 " & 1 5 *  . / 5)"*  , - " 0 3"5$)"%"./0&/

"

3  -"/-6"/( 6 1)":" / /LD#ITY  " " 1&5$)"#63* 3 5 . 4 "" $)"* 4"/". "

" " $

%

3 )

* "

/ * /

/ *

 

3"."* 1)-0&/$)*5 5 "  8

" $ 3 $OWNTOWN )" , #HINATOWN , $ - " ) & $)  " 3

3 . 0  .3* & . / 1)":"5)"* " $  ,  I B ) 3 * , P 3"."*7 "%" " 5 6 4  ) / " 0 / 3 $ " 1 " ( 1 * , )  ) " ) 1 3"5 1 5 0  I " /

) S &

B 9 $

1 " Z 3

3 B &

*/5)3"3"1)*5", 4 1

 4

8

6" 3"."*7 " 3// : 5)0 4" * /5" )03 4"5 ,36/(5) 0/#63* "  /6 03/ "5) 4  5"* 03/ 40.%&51)3" 5) $)"05",4*/ 4"

KEY Major sight Police station Place of interest Tourist Police station Other building Wat 0 km 1 Metro station Church 0 miles 1 Train station Religious building

Skytrain station Post office Riverboat pier Railway line Chao Phraya Express pier Skytrain route SCALE OF MAPS Visitor information Expressway 0 meters 400 Hospital Street market 0 yards 400 BANGKOK STREET FINDER 85

Chalermlap Market 4 E5 Chulin, Soi 2 E5 Khang Pam Nam Man A Chaloem Khet 1–3 3 A5 Chung Charoen Phanit 6 E1 Shell, Soi 5 A4 Aksin, Sois 1–2 8 F5 Chaloem Khet 4 2 F5 Church of Santa Cruz 5 C2 Khang Rong Rap Ama Kang, Soi 6 E2 Cham Niam Suk, Sois 1–3 5 A4 Convent Road 7 C4 Chamnam, Soi 5 C3 Amulet Market 1 C5 Champravit Market 2 E2 Khang Wat Anantanak 3 A5 Chamsai, Soi 4 D4 Welurachin, Soi 5 B4 Anglo Plaza, Soi 7 B4 D Khao 2 E1 Annopnarumit, Soi 4 F3 Chan, Trok 2 F5 Daeng Bunga, Soi 4 D4 Anuman Rajdhon, Soi 7 B4 Chang Pier 1 C5 Damnoen Klang Tai, Soi 2 D4 Khao San 2 D4 Anuwong 6 D2 Chang Tong, Trok 2 D5 Damrong Rak 2 F4 Khao San Market 2 D4 Aram Si, Soi 4 D4 Chanong Krung, Trok 7 A2 continues 3 A4 Khlai Chinda, Soi 5 C4 Ari, Sois 1–5 4 E1 Chanpravit Market 2 E2 Decho 7 B4 Khlong Bang Jag 2 D1 Ari Samphan, Soi 4 D1 Chao Fa 1 C4 2 E4 Khlong Bang Nam Chon 5 A5 Ari Samphan, Sois 1–4 4 E1 Chao Khamrop 6 E1 Din Daeng 1 4 F3 Khlong Bang Ramru 1 A1 Ari Samphan, Sois 5–10 4 D1 Chao Phraya 2 D3 Din Daeng Pier 6 D2 Khlong Bang Sakai 5 B3 Arun Amarin 1 B3 continues 5 B1 Din Daeng, Soi 4 F3 Khlong Bang Yikhan 1 A1 continues 5 B1 Charan Sanit Wong 1 A2 Dinso 2 E5 Khlong Bangkok Noi 1 A3 Asoke Din Daeng 4 F3 Sois 32, 34, 41 1 A3 Ditsamak 2 F5 Khlong Bangkok Yai 5 B2 Asoke-Rachadapisek Sois 36, 43, 45 1 A2 Dumake Pier 6 F5 Khlong Banglamphu 2 E4 Expressway 4 D2 Sois 38, 40 1 B2 Dusit Park 2 F2 Khlong Chong Nonsi 7 B3 Assumption Cathedral 6 F4 Sois 42, 49, 55, continues 3 A2 Khlong Lam Pak 3 A4 Atsadang 2 D5 57–57/1 1 B1 Dusit Zoo 3 A2 Soi Khlong Lam Pak 3 A4 continues 5 C1 Sois 44, 48, 50– Khlong Lot 2 D5 Atsawin, Sois 1–2 1 A2 50/1 1 C1 E continues 5 C1 Attaphannorapha, Soi 4 E4 Sois 46, 52 2 D1 Ek-Ong, Soi 1 B1 Khlong Mahanak 2 F4 Atthakan Prasit, Soi 8 E4 Charat Muang 7 A1 Erawan Shrine 8 D1 continues 3 A5 Atthawimon, Soi 4 F3 Charat Wiang 7 A5 Expressway 3 C5 Khlong Mon 5 A1 Charoen Chai, Trok 2 6 F1 Khlong Ong Ang 2 E5 B Charoen Krung (New Rd) 6 D1 F continues 6 D1 Baiyoke Towers 4 E5 Soi 39 7 A3 Fuang Nakhon 2 D5 Khlong Phadung Bamrung Muang 2 E5 Sois 1, 2 6 D1 Krung Kasem 2 E2 continues 3 A5 Sois 8–15, 19, 21, 23 6 E1 G continues 3 A4 & 6 F1 Bamrung Rat 6 E1 Sois 16, 18 6 E2 Gay Sorn Plaza 8 D1 Khlong Samre 5 A5 Ban Bat, Soi 2 E5 Sois 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, Goethe Institute 8 E4 Khlong Samsen 3 B1 Ban Chang Lo, Soi 1 B5 29, 31, 33, 35, 37 6 F3 Golden Mount 2 F5 Khlong San 6 E3 Ban Dok Mai, Trok 2 F5 Sois 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 6 F4 Government House 2 F3 Khlong San Pier 6 F3 Ban Dok Mai, Trok 1 2 F5 Sois 42–42/1, 46, 48, Grand Palace and Wat Khlong San Sap 3 B5 Ban Lo, Trok 2 E4 50–53 6 F5 Phra Kaeo 1 C5 Khlong Sathorn 8 E4 Ban Mo 5 C1 Sois 43, 45 7 A4 Khlong Thom, Soi 5 C3 Banbab, Trok 7 A5 Charoen Muang H Khlong Thom Market 6 E1 Bandit, Soi 4 D3 7 A2 Hasadin, Soi 4 E5 Khlong Wat Chaeng 5 A1 Bangkok Bank, Soi 6 F1 Charoen Nakhon 6 E4 Sois 1–12 6 E4 Henri Dunant 7 C3 Khlong Wat Bangkok Christian Hiranruchi, Soi 5 B4 Hospital 7 C4 Sois 13–15, 17–20 6 E5 Ratchasittharam 5 A3 Charoen Phanit, Soi 6 F3 Hua Lampong Station 7 A2 Khlong Wat Thepthida 2 E5 Bangkok Noi/Thonburi Hutayana, Soi 8 D5 Railroad Station 1 B4 Charoen Rat 5 C4 Khlong Wat Thong 1 A3 Bangkok Shopping Sois 4, 8 5 C4 Khlong Wat Thong Complex 6 F5 Sois 3, 5, 7, 9, 11–16, I Phleng 6 D4 Inthraraphitak 5 B4 Bangrak Market 6 F5 18, 20, 22 6 D4 Khlongthom Wat Sois 1–3 5 B4 Banthat Thong 7 A2 Sois 17, 24, 26, 28, 30 6 E4 Sommanat 2 F4 Isara Nuphap, Soi 6 E2 continues 3 C5 Charoen Suk, Soi 1 A1 Khrut, Trok 2 D5 Isetan Shopping Soi 36 7 A2 Charoen Wiang 7 A5 Kit Phanit 7 A3 Complex 4 E5 Sois 24, 26, 28, 30, Charoenkit, Soi 7 A3 Klong Thom Pathum Itsaraphap 1 A4 32, 34, 38, 40 7 B2 Charoenphol Market 3 B5 Kongkha, Soi 6 F2 continues 5 A1 Boonphongsa, Soi 1 B2 Charun Wiang 7 A5 Klong Thom Wat Phra Soi 1 6 D4 Boonphongsa, Soi 1 1 B2 Chawakul, Soi 3 C4 Phiren, Soi 6 E1 Sois 2, 4–4/1, 6, 8 6 D3 Bophit Pimuk, Soi 6 D1 Klong Thom, Soi 6 F2 Chawakun, Soi 4 E3 Sois 3, 5, 9–14, 16, Boriphat 6 D1 Kolit, Soi 4 D4 Cherdchungam, Soi 1 A5 18, 20, 22, 24 5 C3 continues 2 E5 Kradang Nga, Trok 2 F4 Chetuphon 5 C1 Sois 15, 17–17/1, 19 5 B3 Bowan Rang Si, Trok 2 D4 Chiang Mai 6 E3 Krai Si 2 D4 Bowon Niwet 2 D4 Sois 21, 28, 30, 32, 34 5 B2 Chinda Thawin, Soi 7 B3 Sois 23, 27, 29, 36, 38 5 A2 Krai, Trok 6 D2 Bun Chu, Soi 4 F3 Chit Lom, Soi 8 E1 Krai, Trok 6 E2 Bun Chu Si, Soi 4 F3 Sois 31, 33, 40, 42 5 A1 Chitrlada Palace 3 B2 Sois 37, 39, 41, 43, Kraisih, Soi 8 F5 Bun Chuai, Soi 4 D2 Chitta Kasem, Trok 6 F2 Kraithamas, Soi 6 D2 Bun Prarop, Soi 4 E4 44, 45 1 A5 Chom Sombun, Soi 7 B3 Krom Chaotha (Harbor Bung 4 F4 Sois 46, 47 1 A4 Chong Nonsi Nua 7 C4 Department) Pier 6 F3 Bunsiri 2 D5 Chong Nonsi Tai (Narathi Krom Prisanee Pier 6 F4 Buranasat 2 D4 J watrachanakarin 7 C4 Krung Kasem 2 E2 Burapha 6 D1 Jack Chia, Soi 8 F5 continues 3 A4 & 6 F1 Burirom, Sois 1, 2, 5 6 E1 Chongraknorasi, Soi 8 D4 Jim Thompson’s House 3 C5 Chuaphloeng 8 F5 Krung Man 3 A5 Chulalongkorn Hospital 8 D3 K Krung Thonburi 5 C5 C Chulalongkorn Soi 1 5 C4 C.S.T., Soi 4 E4 Ka-Om 2 F4 Soi 4 5 C5 Central Hospital 6 E1 Monument 2 F2 Kaeo Fa, Soi 7 A3 Sois 3, 8 6 D5 Central Post Office 6 F4 Chulalongkorn University7 C3 Kai Chae, Trok 2 D3 Sois 5, 10 6 E5 Central Supermarket 6 D1 Chulalongkorn, Sois 1, Kalatan 6 F2 Chai Samoraphum, Soi 4 E3 3–6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 7 B1 Kalayana Maitri 2 D5 Kudi Chain, Soi 5 C2 Chaiyot, Soi 2 E1 Chulalongkorn, Sois 7, 9, Kao Lan 6 F2 Kumarin Ratchapaksi, Soi 1 B3 Chak Phet 6 D1 18, 20, 22 7 B2 Kao Market 6 E2 Chakkaphatdi Phong 2 F4 Chulalongkorn, Sois 11, 15, Kasaemsi, Soi 2 E3 L 6 D1 42, 44, 48, 50, 52, 54 7 B3 Kasem San, Soi 1 7 C1 La-O, Trok 7 A2 Chakrabongse 2 D4 Chulalongkorn, Sois Kasem San, Soi 2–3 7 B1 Lad Ya 5 C4 Chalerm Mahanakhon 19, 60 7 C3 Khai, Trok 2 E5 Sois 1–3, 5 5 C4 Expressway 4 F5 Chulalongkorn, Sois Khang Ban Manang- Sois 6, 8, 10–13, 15 6 D4 continues 8 F2 62, 64 7 C1 khasila, Soi 3 B4 Sois 14, 16 6 E4 86 BANGKOK STREET FINDER

Soi 17 6 D3 Nai Thongbai, Trok 5 C4 Phaya Mai 5 C3 Pramot, Sois 1–3 7 A4 Soi 21 6 E3 Nak Bamrung, Soi 3 A5 Soi Phaya Mai 5 C3 Pramuan 7 A5 Lak Muang 2 D5 Nakhon Chaisi 3 B1 Phaya Nak 3 B5 Prasaan, Soi 7 A4 Lamphun Chai 6 F2 Nakhon Kasem, Sois 3–4 6 D1 Soi Phaya Nak 3 C5 Prasart Court, Soi 8 D5 Lan Luang 2 F4 Nakhon Pathom 3 A3 Phaya Thai 7 C2 Prasat Suk, Soi 8 F5 continues 3 A4 Nakhon Sawan 2 F4 continues 4 D5 Market 4 E5 Lang Krasuang Market 5 C1 continues 3 A4 Phayathai-Bangkhlo Pridi, Soi 8 E5 Lang Samoson Nakkharat 3 A5 Expressway 3 B5 Prinya 1 B1 Thapok, Soi 2 F2 Nakorn Kasem 6 E1 continues 7 A1 Prok Wat Arun, Lang Suan, Soi 8 E2 Nam Banyat, Soi 2 E3 Phet Kasem 5 A4 Sois 1–3 5 B1 Lang Suan, Sois 1–7 8 E2 Nana, Soi 6 F2 Sois 1–3 5 A4 Prong Chai, Soi 8 E5 Lang Wat Hua Nana Market 2 D3 Soi 4 5 A3 Lampong, Trok 7 B3 Nangleng Market 2 F4 Phet Phloi, Trok 7 A3 Loet Panya, Soi 4 E4 Nang Lueng, Trok 2–3 2 F4 R Phi Rom, Soi 6 D2 Rachawadi, Trok 5 C4 Luang 6 E1 Nantha, Soi 8 D5 Phiphat, Soi 7 C4 Rachawat Market 3 B1 continues 2 E5 Narayana Phand Phiphat, Sois 1–2 7 C4 Rachinee Pier 5 C2 Luk Luang 2 E2 Shopping Complex 8 D1 Phiphit, Soi 2 E4 Rachinee 2 D5 continues 3 A4 Naret 7 B3 Phisamai, Soi 3 A1 continues 5 C1 Lukmahadthai 2 D1 National Arts Gallery 2 D4 Phithaksin, Soi 5 C4 Ram Buttri 2 D4 Lumphini Boxing National Library 2 E2 Phitsanulok 2 E2 Ram Buttri, Soi 2 D3 Stadium 8 E4 National Museum 1 C4 continues 3 A4 Rama I 7 A1 Lumphini Park 8 D3 Nawa, Trok 2 D5 Phlab Phla Chai 6 F1 Rama IV 7 A2 Nawang, Soi 6 D1 continues 3 A5 continues 6 F2 Nawat Hua Lampong, Phloen Chit 8 E1 M Rama V 3 A3 Maekhong, Soi 1 B1 Soi 7 C3 Pho Phanit 6 E1 Maen Si, Soi 2 F5 Neilson-Hays Library 7 B4 Pho Sua, Trok 2 D5 Rama VIII Bridge 1 C2 Maen Si, Sois 1–2 2 F5 New Bobe Shopping Pho, Soi 5 C2 Ramathibodi Hospital 3 C3 Maha Chai 2 E5 Complex 3 B5 Phok Siri, Soi 3 C1 Rang Nam 4 E4 continues 6 D1 New Road (Charoen Phokhi 3 A5 Ratchabophit 2 D5 Maha Nakhon 7 A3 Krung) 6 D1 Phra Athit 1 C3 Ratchadamnoen Boxing Sois 4, 6, 8 7 A3 New World Department Phra Athit Pier 1 C3 Stadium 2 F3 Maha Phrutharam 6 F3 Store 2 D3 Phra Chan 1 C4 Ratchadamnoen Klang 2 D4 Maha Uma Devi Temple 7 B4 Ngam Duphli, Soi 8 E5 Phra Chan Pier 1 C4 Ratchadamnoen Nok 2 F4 Mahachak 6 E1 Ni Chong Sawatdi 6 F3 Phra Chen, Soi 8 E3 Ratchadamri 8 D2 Mahanak Market 3 A5 Nikhom Banphak Rotfai 1 B4 Phra Nakharet, Soi 7 A3 Soi Ratchadamri 8 D1 Mahannop 2 D5 Sois 1–6 1 A4 Phra Nang, Soi 4 E3 Ratchaprarop 4 E5 Mahannop, Trok 2 D5 Nikhom Makkasan 4 F5 Phra Phinij, Soi 8 D5 Soi Ratchaprarop 4 E4 Maharaj Market 1 C4 Nitcharot, Soi 1 C1 Phra Phiphit 5 C1 Ratchasi, Trok 2 F5 Maharaj Pier 1 C4 Noen Khai Luang, Soi 1 A4 Phra Phitak 5 C1 Ratchasima 2 F2 Mahathat 1 C5 Nom Chit, Soi 4 D4 Phra Pin Klao (Wat Dao Ratchataphan, Soi 4 E4 continues 5 C1 Nopphamat, Soi 1 A4 Dung) Pier 1 C3 Ratchawithi 3 A1 Mahatlek Luang, Phra Pok Klao Bridge 6 D2 continues 2 E1 Sois 1–3 8 D2 O Phra Sumen 2 D3 Ratchawong 6 E2 Mahesak 7 A4 O-Sathahon 6 D2 Phraeng Nara 2 D5 Ratchawong Pier 6 E2 Mai Market 6 E2 Oriental Pier 6 F4 Phraeng Phuton 2 D5 Ratruam Charoen, Soi 5 C4 Maitri, Trok 6 F1 Oriental Plaza 6 F4 Phraeng Sanphasat 2 D5 Rattanasisang, Soi 1 A5 Maitri Chit 6 F1 Phrannok 1 A4 Ratutit, Soi 7 A2 Makham, Trok 1–2 6 F2 P Phrannok Market 1 A4 Ratying Charoen, Soi 5 C4 Makkasan Railroad Pak Khlong Pier 5 C2 Phrannok Pier 1 B4 River City Department Station 4 F5 Pak Khlong Market 5 C1 Phrasan Saraban, Soi 4 F4 Store 6 F3 Mandarin Oriental 6 F4 Palana, Soi 7 A4 Phrasi, Soi 3 B5 River City Pier 6 F3 Man Sin, Sois 1–4 3 C4 Pan 7 B5 Phraya Damrong, Soi 7 A3 Rong Che, Soi 5 A5 Manawitthaya, Trok 5 C5 Parinayok 2 E4 Phraya Maha Ammat, Rong Lao Pier 2 D3 Mangkon 6 E2 Pata Department Store 4 E5 Soi 3 A5 Rong Liang Dek, Trok 3 A5 Soi Mangkon 6 F1 Patpong 1–2 7 C3 Phraya Si, Soi 5 C1 Rong Liang Dek Market 3 A5 Sois 1–2 6 F1 Patravadi 1 B5 Phun Suk, Soi 8 E5 Rong Mai, Trok 1 C4 Matum, Soi 1 B5 Peninsula Plaza 8 D1 Phuttha-Osot, Soi 7 A4 Rong Mo Pier 5 B1 Mayom, Trok 2 D4 Phetchaburi 3 C4 Phyanakhonratchaseni, Rong Muang 7 A1 Meksawat, Soi 8 F5 Sois 1, 2, 4, 6 3 B4 Soi 7 A2 Sois 1–5 7 A1 Memorial Bridge 5 C2 Sois 3, 5, 7 3 C4 Phyaphiren, Soi 8 F5 Rong Rian Chanthana Ming Bamrung Sois 9, 11, 13, 15, Phyasingseni, Trok 7 A2 Suksa, Soi 5 B4 Muang, Soi 1 A5 18, 20 4 D5 Phyautit, Soi 3 A1 Rongrian King Phet, Mit Anan, Soi 3 C1 Pichai 3 A1 Sois 10, 12, 14 3 C5 Soi 3 C5 Mittraphan 6 F2 Sois 17, 19, 21–26, Pichai Soi 1 7 B5 Rongrian Ratprasong, Mo Daeng, Soi 1 A4 28, 30, 32 4 E5 Pichai Soi 2 7 C5 Soi 4 F3 Momchuan, Trok 3 A5 Sois 27, 29, 31, 33, Pikul, Soi 7 B5 Rongrian Sudarak, Soi 3 C5 Monk’s Bowl Village 2 F5 35, 37 4 F5 Pinthipphimanwes, Soi 1 B2 Ronnachai, Sois 1–2 3 C1 Montri, Soi 5 B3 Petchaburi Market 3 C5 Plaeng Nam 6 E2 Royal Bangkok Moobanbangyikhan Phadung Dao 6 F2 Plukchit, Soi 8 F4 Sports Club 8 D2 Thaohouse, Soi 1 B2 Phadung Krung Plukchit, Sois 1–2 8 F4 Royal Barge Museum 1 B3 Moobankhunpan, Soi 6 E5 Kasem Market 3 A5 Polalit, Soi 4 E4 urf Club 3 A3 Moobanmahawong Phahon Yothin 4 E2 Polit Sapha, Soi 6 F2 Royal T Patthana, Soi 1 B2 Sois 1, 3 4 E2 Polo, Soi 1 8 E3 Ruam Pradit, Soi 3 B1 Morchub, Soi 5 B5 Sois 2, 4 4 F1 Polo, Sois 2, 4–5 8 F3 Ruam Rudi, Soi 8 F2 Morleng, Soi 4 F4 Soi 5 4 E1 Pongchitt, Soi 5 A4 Ruam Rudi, Sois 1–4 8 F2 Morsun, Trok 7 A3 Phahurat 6 D1 Prachathipathai 2 E3 Ruam Rudi, Soi 5 8 F3 Museums at the Phahurat Market 6 D1 Prachathipok 5 C3 Ruamit, Soi 4 F3 1 B4 Phalittaphon, Soi 6 E2 Prachum, Soi 7 A4 Ruen Rudi, Soi 8 F1 Phan Trachit, Trok 2 6 F2 Pradit, Soi 7 A4 N Phaniang 2 F4 Praditphol, Soi 1 A3 S Na Hap Phoel 2 D5 Phanu Rang Si, Soi 6 F2 Pradu, Soi 6 F2 Sa Nam Rhao 4 E2 Na Phra Lan 1 C5 Phat Sai 6 F2 Prakobphol, Sois 1–2 1 C3 Saeng Uthai Thip, Soi 4 F3 Na Phra That 1 C4 Phattana Chang, Soi 1 A4 Pramongkut Hospital 4 D2 Saengmuang, Soi 5 C4 Nai Loet, Soi 8 F1 Phatu Nokyung, Soi 5 B1 Pramot, Soi 7 A4 Saha Mit, Soi 7 A3 BANGKOK STREET FINDER 87

Sailom, Soi 4 F1 Sillapakorn, Trok 1 C5 Wat Bowonniwet 2 E4 St. Francis Xavier Church 2 E1 Silom 7 A4 T Wat Daowadungsaram, Saint Louis, Sois 1–3 7 B5 Soi 19 7 A5 6 F5 Soi 1 C3 Taksin Monument 5 C4 Saithi 2 8 D5 Sois 1, 3–8 7 C4 Wat Duangkhae, Soi 7 A2 Talad Charoen Phon, Sake, Trok 2 D4 Sois 9–14, 16, 18, 20 7 B4 Wat Hong, Soi 5 B2 Soi 2 3 B5 Saksin, Soi 5 C5 Sois 17, 22, 24, 26, Wat Indrawihan 2 E2 Taladsiwanich, Soi 4 F3 Sala Daeng 8 D4 28, 30, 32 7 A4 Talat Sesaweech, Soi 5 B4 Wat Kalayanimit 5 B2 Sala Chalermkrung Silom Plaza 7 B4 Tambon Mahathat, Soi 1 C5 Wat Kanlaya, Soi 5 C2 Theater 6 D1 Silom Village Complex 7 A4 Tambon Nakhon, Soi 1 C4 Wat Khahabodi, Soi 1 C2 Sois 1–2 8 D4 Silpakorn University 1 C5 Tambon Taweephol, Soi 1 C5 Wat Klang, Soi 5 A5 Sala Tonchai, Soi 1 B5 Sin, Trok 2 E4 Tambonwanglang, Wat Klang Market 5 A4 Salakhin, Trok 7 A2 Sip Sam Hang 2 D4 Soi 1 1 B5 Wat Mahathat 1 C5 Sam Sen Railroad Siri Phong 2 E5 Tanao 2 D5 Wat Makog, Soi 4 D3 Station 3 C1 Sirichai, Trok 1–2 2 E5 Tanarak, Soi 7 B5 Wat Muang Khae Pier 6 F4 , Soi 6 D1 Siriraj Pier 1 B4 Tani 2 D4 Wat Nak Klang, Soi 5 A1 Sama Han, Soi 8 F2 Sirung, Soi 8 F5 Taniya 7 C4 8 D1 Sampaya, Soi 5 C5 Sithongdi, Soi 1 B1 Taphanyao, Trok 6 D2 Wat Phakhininat, Soi 2 D1 Sampeng Lane 6 E2 Sitthiprasat, Soi 8 F5 Samran Rat, Soi 2 E5 Tha Din Daeng 6 D3 Wat Pho 5 C1 Snake Farm 7 C3 Sois 1, 3–11, 13, Wat Phothi Nimit, Soi 5 A5 Samran, Soi 4 E5 Soda, Soi 3 A1 15–18/1 6 D3 Wat Phraya Tham, Soi 5 A1 Samsen 2 D3 Soem Sinkha 6 E1 Soi 2 6 D4 Wat Prayun 5 C2 Sois 1–3, 5, 7 2 D3 Sombun Panya, Soi 7 B3 Soi 20 6 D2 Wat Rachabophit 2 D5 Sois 4, 6, 10 2 E3 Somdet Chao Praya 6 D3 Tha Klang, Soi 5 C2 Wat Rachanat 2 E4 Sois 9, 11, 13 2 E1 Sois 1–2, 4 5 C3 Tha Tian, Soi 5 B1 Wat Rachapradit 2 D5 Soi 12 2 F2 Sois 3, 5–8, 10–12, Thai Wang 5 C1 Wat Rakhang 1 B5 San Chao Maepla 14, 16, 18 6 D3 Taphian, Soi 7 A4 1 C4 Wat Rakhang Pier 1 B5 Sois 13, 15, 17 6 E3 Than Thawan, Soi 7 C4 Sanam Chai 5 C1 Somdet Phra Chao Wat Rakhang Sanam Khli, Soi 8 E3 Thanam San Chao, Soi 6 E2 Khositaram, Soi 1 B5 Taksin 5 B5 Thanasilp, Soi 8 D5 Sanam Luang 1 C4 Sois 3, 5 5 C4 Wat Ratchakhru, Soi 5 A5 Sanan Sin, Soi 1 A4 Thaneethaphisek, Soi 5 A1 Wat Ratchinatda, Trok 2 E4 Sois 4–4/1, 6, 8, 10, The Wet, Soi 1–3 Sanchao Arneaw, Soi 5 C5 2 E3 Wat Saket 2 F5 12, 18 5 B5 Thep Hatsadin, Soi 4 E4 Sanchao, Soi 1 B1 Wat Sam Phraya Pier 2 D3 Sois 7, 9, 11 5 C5 Thepharak, Soi 1 B3 Sangkhalok 2 F1 Wat Sommanat, Soi 2 F4 Somdet Phra Pin Klao 1 B2 Thepnakarin, Soi 1 B2 Sanguan Suk, Soi 3 B1 Song Phra, Soi 7 B3 Wat Suthat and the Santi Phap, Soi 7 B3 Therd Damri 3 C1 Song Sawat 6 F2 Giant Swing 2 D5 Santi Phap, Soi 1 7 B3 Thetsaban Sai 1 5 C2 Song Sawat Pier 6 E2 1 A3 Santi, Soi 1 B1 Thetsaban Sai 2–3 5 C3 Songwat 6 E2 Wat Taphan, Soi 4 E3 Santiphap 6 F1 Thewet Pier 2 D2 Sot Phinsan, Soi 4 E3 Wat Thong Pier 6 E3 Santisuk, Soi 1 A4 Thewet Flower Market 2 E2 Sra Song, Soi 2 E5 Wat Traimit 6 F2 Santisuk, Soi 4 E3 Thewi Worayat, Soi 2 F5 St. Francis Xavier Wat Tri Thotsthep, Trok 2 E3 Saolada, Soi 1 A3 Thian Siang, Soi 7 C5 Church 2 E1 Wat Wisetkan, Soi 1 B4 Sap 7 B3 Thoet Thai 5 A5 Stadium Charusathian 7 B2 Wat Yai Si Suphan, Soi 5 B4 Saphan Luang, Trok 5 C4 Thonburi Railroad Suan Amporn 2 F2 Wattana Yothin, Soi 4 E3 Saphan Phut 5 C2 Station Pier 1 C4 Suan Chitrlada 3 B3 Wattana, Soi 1 A4 Saphan Phut Pier 5 C2 Ti Thong 2 D5 Suan Mali, Sois 1–3 2 F5 Watthanasin, Soi 4 E5 Saphan Tia, Soi 7 B3 Tien Pier 5 B1 Suan Ngen, Soi 3 C2 Saphankhu, Soi 8 F4 Tokyu Department Watthanawong, Soi 4 E5 Suan Oi, Sois 1–5 2 F1 Saphran Khao Store 7 B1 Wiraya, Soi 3 C4 Fruit Market 3 A4 Suan Pakkad Palace 4 D4 Tonson, Soi 8 E2 Wireless Road Saran Rom 2 D5 Suan Rommani Nart 2 E5 Tri Mit 6 F2 (Witthayu) 8 E2 Saraphi, Soi 2 5 C4 Suan Saranrom 5 C1 Tri Phet 6 D1 Wiset San, Soi 5 C4 Saraphi, Soi 3 5 C5 Suandusit, Soi 3 B2 Trong Kham Talat Si Wisut Kasat 2 E3 Saraphi, Soi 3 Tatmai 6 D5 Suanphlu, Soi 8 D5 Thon, Soi 5 A4 Wisut Kasat Pier 2 D2 Sarasin 8 E3 Suanphlu, Sois 1–2 8 D5 Tuk Din, Trok 2 E4 Witthayu (Wireless Rd) 8 E2 Sathitphon, Soi 1 B1 Suapa 6 E1 Wiwat Wiang, Soi 6 E1 Sathorn Pier 6 F5 Sukhat, Soi 2 D5 U Wongwian Lek Market 6 D2 Sathorn Nua Sukhom Tharam 3 B1 Udomsap, Soi 1 A1 (North) 7 A5 Sukhumvit 8 F1 Ulit, Soi 8 F2 Railroad Station 5 B4 Sathorn Tai Sois 1, 3 8 F1 Unakan 2 E5 Wora Chak 2 F5 (South) 7 A5 Sois 2, 4 8 F2 Uruphong, Soi 2 3 B4 Woraphong, Soi 2 E3 Satsana, Soi 4 D1 Sukon, Sois 1–2 6 F2 Uruphong, Soi 3 3 B5 Worarak, Soi 3 B1 Satsana, Soi 1–5 4 D1 Sukon, Trok 6 F2 Uthai, Soi 6 D2 Worarit, Soi 3 C5 Uthai Thip, Soi Sawang 7 A2 Sukothai 3 A1 4 F3 World Trade Center 8 D1 Sois 1–2 3 B1 Nai 3 A2 Sois 1, 3, 5, 7 7 A3 Wutthi Chai, Trok 3 A4 Sois 3–4 3 B2 Uthong Nok 2 F2 Sawankhalok 3 B4 Wutthi Suksa, Soi 5 C4 Soi 5 3 C2 Sawansawat, Soi 8 F5 Wutthipan, Soi 4 E4 Senarak, Soi 4 D3 Suksa Witthaya, Soi 7 B5 V Set Siri, Soi 2 3 C1 Sung, Trok 6 F5 Vichaigut Hospital 4 D1 Setthakan, Soi 5 C1 Sunthonphimol, Soi 7 A2 Vimanmek Mansion 2 F1 Y Yaowaphanit 6 E2 Shangri-La Pier 6 F5 Suphan 3 A1 Yaowarat 6 E1 Si Ayutthaya 3 B3 Supphakorn, Soi 3 A4 W Yen Akat 8 E5 continues 2 F2 Supphamit 3 A4 Wanawan, Trok 6 D4 Soi 1 4 E4 SUPPORT Museum 2 F1 Wang Doem 5 A2 Yen Akat, Soi 1 8 E5 Si Bamphen, Soi 8 E5 Surasak 7 A5 Wang Lang, Trok 1 B4 Yenchit, Trok 6 D4 Si Phom, Soi 5 B4 Surawong 7 A4 Wangchao Sai 6 F1 Yisipsong Karakadakhom Si Phraya Pier 6 F4 Surawong Center 7 C3 Wanit, Soi 2 6 F3 1–3, 5 6 F1 Si Praya 7 A3 Sutcharit, Soi 1 3 B1 Wasukri Pier 2 E1 Yommarat Market 3 B4 continues 6 F3 Sutcharit, Soi 2 3 B2 Wat Amarin Market 1 B4 Yommarat, Soi 8 D4 Si Thamathirat 6 E1 Sutcharit Nua, Soi 3 B1 Wat Amonkiri, Soi 1 C2 Yommaratsukhum 6 E1 Si Wiang 7 A5 Suthisuksa, Soi 5 C4 Wat Amphawan, Soi 3 B1 Yotha 6 F3 Siam Central 7 C1 Suwannaram Market 1 A3 Wat Arun 5 B1 Yotha 1 6 F3 Siam City 4 D4 Suwannin, Soi 1 C2 Wat Arun Pier 5 B1 Yothi 3 C3 Siam Square 7 C1 Suwichandamri, Soi 1 C3 Wat Benchamabophit 3 A3 Yotsi, Soi 3 A5 Sois 1–6, 9–11 7 C1 Swatdi, Soi 7 A2 Wat Borom Niwat, Soi 3 B5 Yuttha Suksa, Soi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

/ B  *3 7 ( * ** 40*$)"3"/ 3TORE 4 *  4"/*580/( 0 #  * S  JE 46 H   8 F " / /*/ 4 40*

0

, *   I 40* M $ P 48 O  H    1*/5)*11)*."/8&4 #00/1)0/(4" 40*5)&1/","3*/ */ 3 # " B . O " H

4"/*580/( 4  0 *  4"/*580/(40*$)"3"/ - : J )0  L 40*#00/1)0/(4"  I 51 / 4 0- B * 6 6 1) O 8 *  "3"/ "% 3 40*$)"3"/ " * 40 ,0# 4"/*580/( 13 $ . 40* 5 )  ) 13" 3" 40* " 8"4" $ 0*   / /(  13",0#1)0-   % 4%6  40* " . 8"  5)&1)"3", 0 "  3*        40 40*  * ,6."3*/  4"  0  - " 3"5$)"1",4*  %"  ,  I  1ISB1JO,MBP M #SJEHF P  O 4  H 0 H  . O 2OYAL"ARGE 1ISB P %

40 I  *$ -USEUM & "UIJU " ) 5 # 5 3 " B ) 3" O  1 /4 3UWANNARAM " H  /*5 L 1 8 -ARKET P /  0/ * ) ( L   3 3  " " BAN 8BU / P J   . #BOHLPL/PJ5IPO $)"0

" 530, 1 30/( #VSJ */ ."* 7AT 3BJMXBZ4UBUJPO 

 , / !MARIN

-" '"

40* 6 40* 40* 4

#3 4 /*,)0. -ARKET

0*/ 4 3 0* #"/1)", 305'"* 0 ,IMPOH 0*

/

 /# "

/#3 .ATIONAL /#

/ *54"3"1)"1

 5IPO#VSJ

# 4

#

 0

3 4HEATER

3 3

3 3BJMXBZ

 * 

 



 .ATIONAL

8 -USEUM

4

" 0

5 * 

4 40* 1 4JSJSBK

0 )"5

*54"3"1)"1 * 8 -USEUMSAT

5" 40* / *  4 0 *54"3"1)"1 & THE3IRIRAJ 4HAMMASAT /" 5  1 ,)"* 1 , (OSPITAL 5NIVERSITY 4 ) " 1ISB $)"/ 0* " / 5)"5

4"/5*46, "ANGKOK . $IBO  

- / 

6" 1)3"$)"/

" 

40* .OI-ARKET 0& 5 ( 1)3"//0, 8BOH-BOH 40* /( /

.0  4JSJSBK -AHARAJ 4"/". (  &OOD 40*5 %"&/( 1)3"//0, 530, / / 40* 8"/ -ARKET " ( -"/( -ARKET .")"5)"5 0HRANNOK  - 40* 8 ( 4"/"/ -ARKET / 40* " " 5".#0/ 4*/ 40* 1)3" *54"3"1)"1 55 8 .")"5)"5 7AT

/ "/

 40 0 -AHATHAT

40* 4"-" 50/$)"* #

" -6"/(   *

40* .

" # 40*5".#0/

*54"3 5 "1)"1 0ATRAVADI 5"8&&1)0- /"

" 40*



* !MULET 530,4*--"1",03/ * / "53" 4HEATER $)6/(". 8 ,  5 ) "/ 0 8BU " ( 4 -ARKET 4 , !MULET $)&3%   3 )04* 40* " 5"3". 3BLIBOH

6

$) ,AK

3 3ILPAKORN -ARKET *54"3"1)"1 / 40* 

"  5NIVERSITY -UANG "

1 /"1)3"-"/

(/  )     "3"1)"1 4"3"1)"1 4 *5 " **5 " 40* 40  7AT 4 . $IBOH 1 0

" 2AKHANG Wat  * -   3 3

* 0 Phra Kaeo / " 

 5

5

"

/

"4 BANGKOK NOI .

*4 "

"/ )

"

( 40*."56. 5

)

" #".36/( 40**54"3"1)"140*.*/( .6"/( 5  Grand Palace 4"/(,) 5   0  " "-  3"5$)"8*5)*) 0,  , 0* 40*8"5 0* 4" , /(,) I M P O H  1)",)*/*/" "-0  #  , B O H   + 4 "/ * B 0 05 / H * 6   4 *  6"  "*: * 4" 4 . 0 8 40* * /0 0* 4& 4 6"/0  0/ / 4 (   /  *$) 40 6"   4  0    40* * 4 46"  )"4*." 4".4 40  & 40*  /  3"5$

3500/24 - 6 , . " 40* -USEUM ) "% 4".4 5 &/ ) "  4".4&/ *  8BTVLSJ *6IMANMEK . "  0ALACE )"4

"5 $ 3 %64*5  65  )0/(    /0, DUSIT

 .ATIONAL  1"3, 40*-"/( ,IBRARY 40* 4".040/5)"10, 4" ": .4     655) &/  5IFXFU , ":   36/ "  B (   4HEWET 4* Z ,  "4 &LOWER ":655)":" & .  B  -ARKET  46"/ S / 1)*54"/6-0, &  I 4 "     1 . *. " 4*" ".103/ 3BNB7***#SJEHF 4 #HANPRAVIT " 4 :655)":" -ARKET #HULALONGKORN "ANKOF ,3 5$) ,IMPOH1IBEVOH,SVOH,BTFN -ONUMENT -  4HAILAND 6 6, /(, 3 "  3BNB7*** -6   #SJEHF 8*465,"4"5 " "4&. /( P 



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

/0&/  1   , ,IMPOH 5 -

 3 " 0 / )0 -6"/(   , ( 5 ,-"/( -"/  PHRA4 "* ",&

 40*%"./0&/,-"/(5"* /

NAKHON5 %".3 ( 30,4 , I M P 0/ #63"/"4"5 */ !MULET O (3 H  ", 530,8"5 -ARKET .    530,56,%*/ 3"5$)*/"5%" B I B %". O B L  30/ " ( #6/4*3* , 3" I M P , 5 #6/4*3* O H  3 8B 4 U  5 I " F Q  " U 530 I J 5 , E B "*   " $ -PU .")"/ % /0 ) 1 ) ) 'OLDEN 1 " . * 530, ")"/ / 3 * )0 4 $ ,)365 51 6" 01 %*/40 -OUNT 7AT / /  530,  /"  $ 0 )"/ 4 # 0 (50/( 0* H * ( 4". 3AKET SATTRU )"11)0&- " 3"/   O  1)3"&/(   / 3"  * 5 ")" " " 4"/1)"4"5 " /( 5 )  . PHAI ,/"8" ,

530   4  " 3" 0  (/ 1)0 3"&/ , *.  -",.6"/( 1) *    "& *  0 /4 4 *

*3 3 * 5  4 /( 1)3"&/( .6" /4  &/ /(  &   36 " 7AT3UTHAT #".  #" * . 1)650/ H .3 ANDTHE 4 ." 4 O 6/ 530, )" ( * 'IANT3WING 4*3*$)"* 0 .6 53 )",  "  40* ,"-":"/"."* 46, )"5 $ -ONKgS 530, /( /   3 * $   $ " 3* ) 5$ - 0 * "*  "OWL )"4* 2ONG 4  " )  ,  6ILLAGE " . ,IANG  0 H ", 3   3 )" 53 O #  40* $EK 40*  " / 0, 5 $)6-*/ / / -* P    )"5 % M "5 0, " -ARKET 4"3"/30. 7AT  . *1 46"/ ." 6 I  # 530, " 80    4  3 # * " 46"/."-* , 2ATCHABOPHIT  3 "5$)"#01)*5 /  30.."/* 0 % /   0/( # 0 * "  %*54".", 40* ( , $)"-0& 0 5)&8* #  803":"5 /"35  . 6/","/ 4 /  5) " 530, $)"/ 46"/." 7AT * * * . 4*3*1)0/(  5 "ANGKOK , 40*  -6"/( 0 )&5 2ATCHAPRADIT '6" 4 43"  40/( 0RISON 40*    5 5 / . 40* " 5* *5"/"/ % 40* 6 8" 40 0 " * 8" *4 4 "/(6"/4    0 )" /  ): 4  461)"/ *   1 " 6,     *   , ".1 , 4BN4FO 40 I M ) 46,05)"* P O H  4 B N T 0 F O 3BJMXBZ 1*$)"* /  5"/"/  40* * $ 36" 4UBUJPO .1 //"$)" ) 3"%*5 . "  

2ACHAWAT * 0*   4 4 40*  0*30 *  -ARKET  * 4 1)*4"."* 7 *3 40*  4   803"3",   4&5   * )"* 0 / 4 " /"$ 1*$)"* , " 46,)0.  ) 5)&3%%".3*  0/ * 3* 0 3 . 4* / 40 0* 4 3"5 )0, $ 40*4 1 ) 3" 65$ " * 46,05)"* 5)"3". $)"8*5)* )" 4 * 3*5/ 6"

6IMANMEK 4 0*46  0ALACE 5$  "* )"3*5 5  * )  465$)"3*540*   "*    64   5)  *  0 /"*  , 46,05    6"/% 6  4  0* *   4 05)" * *4

0 6, 5)"* "/,)"-0,

$USIT 4 40 4 3"5$)"8*5  ,0 * 8 6 DUSIT 6,05)" :OO 40 4 * 4 * 4"

40 40 !NANTA 3AMAKORN #HITRLADA 40* 4HRONE  0ALACE /(&/46"/ (ALL 7 ) * 65)0/(

48":

4

3& %64*5 1

&9

3"." 1"3, 0

- 46"/ 2AMATHIBODI ) (OSPITAL , ( $)*53-"%" / 7AT " "ENCHAMABOPHIT #  *

"

)

4* 5  4"8"/,)"-0,  " :05)* . :

 " )0 ":655)" -AHIDOL 7 ) "5 5NIVERSITY 1 1

  : "  

0/ 2OYAL

/",) 4URF#LUB

3"."

-AHIDOL 5NIVERSITY 1)*54"/6-0, R 4*

":655)":" /",)0/4"8"/ 

 , I 40*  5 M * P - 4"8"/,)"-0, ":" ,36/(,"4&.O 6 , $)"8",6- H  *3 ".  3APHRAN+HAO )  1   8 1  &RUIT-ARKET  - * 6  6 4 1 " 9OMMARAT I 40  / "AN 40*."/4*/  B / ( -ARKET 3 E   V 0HITSANULOK 0 O  ,   H  "  1 ) *  0 1 4  1 40*."/4*/ 6 4  *  (  40*."/4*/  0 

/ ."/"/(,)"4*-"

" 40*,)"/(#"/

4  4 6 

- 

, :  0

/  , - " "

  * 40*."/4*/ * " "

 1 , 1 3 

) 6 . 8

 - # 530, 0 " 4 $)"* 40* , -  " / . 8655)* (( 4

S ) "

$ V - & O 40*1 1&5$)"#63* 5  &  3 H 1)&5$)"#63* ( 3", 1

( /  40* 1 40* 1&5$)"#63*

/ 6361)0/( 0  41&5$) 9 41&5$) *

3 0

-  0 & . 40*6361)0/( 4 ) "

,

% -AHANAK , 3$#OLISEUM  -ARKET B 0HADUNG+RUNG . $EPARTMENT3TORE , T

I M & P O F +ASEM-ARKET  H  4  . 0 B I B O N B L "  1   * 0HETCHABURI  ) - , " .EW :" ( 3  /  " / 6 POM PRAP ,   ) 40* -ARKET "OBE3HOPPING 0 # # 30/(3*"/ " , ) ) 63*  , I #OMPLEX 5 M P ( $ # ( O 46%"3", 40* ,36/( H  1 5 )" & / 4 / :" B / 1 )" SATTRU."/ O " 1&5$) 6 ,  $ " 3 4 B Q 5 5 & , "  # 40* / )  40* 1 40* 530/(3*"/,*/( 40* 1)":"/", "/"/5 "/", * PHAI / " 1)&5 1)0,)* " # 40* 

 5 40*  5 ) !SIA " 1 ) " 4 8 3"4 0* * * 530, 30/( -*"/(1 %&,  2ONG )3":  / : 40* .0. 803"3*5  "."$)6"/ " ,IANG /",,)"3"5 . )" ) $EK-ARKET ".. 0 3 1

#".36/(530, .6"/("5 0 $)"-0&.  #  *  Jim " +ANCHANAWANIT 5 ),)&5 " $)"-0&. $ Thompson⁴s , I M P -ARKET 8 O H  ,)&5 " -  * House ) 40* 40*5"-"% $)"- 1 0 $)"30&/1)0/ # :054* 4 ,)&50&. " - ) #HAROENPHOL-ARKET 1          40* "3* 

4".1)"/ /PSUIFSO 6ICHAIGUT /PSUIFSO  /PSUIFBTUFSO  /PSUIFBTUFSO 40* "3*  #VT5FSNJOBMT (OSPITAL  40* "3* #VT5FSNJOBMT "3*4".1)"/  "3*4".1)"/ 40* "3* 40* 

40* 40* 40* "3*    4".1)"/ .  :05)*/   0 4".1)"/ "3* 40*1)")0/ - * :05)*/ " 4".1)"/  4  * 4".1)"/ 4".1)"/ 40* "3*  40*4"54"/" "3* :05)*/ 0 4   "3* 4".1)"/   *4"54"/"      40 "3* 1)")0/    4".1)"/  "3*   1)")0/  4 40* 40*  0*  4".1)"/ 40* "3*  4" / 54 40* 40* 40* "/ * 40* " 4".1)"/ "3* ) 4"54"/" 40* 5 4"54"/" "3*  4"54"/" 0 $)6"* "3* :05)*/ :  40* / PHAYA40* THAI 0 40* ) " 40* ) 1 4BOBN 40* #6/ 40*  1BP

40* /

0

)  / " 0 *. " 3)"0 8 4 ) " 0 ) , 55 & 1 "  3 "  $ /". * , ) 0 I " 4 M P % O 1)")0/:05)*/ H "  1 40* 4 * 4" B 4 N & T , F O 0RAMONGKUT  $)6 +LAO(OSPITAL & 9 1 3"5$)"8*5)* 3 & #6/ $)6 4* 4 4 8 40* #6/ " 40* :   / 40*8"5.",0( 0 40*#"/%*5 . -AHIDOL * -ARKET 8 " 40* 36".*5 5NIVERSITY ) 5 5 40* 4"/5*46, 6ICTORY " 40* "//01/"36.*5

-ONUMENT 40* 1)3" /"/(  40* 4&/"3", * 0 #6/ $)640* 4* #6/ $)6 3"5$)"8*5)* 4

*/ 40*%*/%"&/( 40* % 7JDUPSZ 0EOPLEgS ,& .POVNFOU $EPARTMENT 40 %"&/( :05)* " 3TORE " 4 %*/ 0  1%"&/(  , * ) & 5 0&5 1"/:"  * - 3 " " ) 5 $ 6 ) ( 40* &/ " " 4 % 30/(3*"/3"513"40/(* 8"5 0 40* " 4 65)"* 5)*1 40* 40*  5"1)"/ 1 RATCHA 40*8"55"/":05)*/ 5"-"%4*8"/*$) * 3I$IN$AENG 40* $)"* 4".03"1)6. 1 4 3"/(  40*$)"8",6/ & -ARKET 40* 405 1)*/4"/ 0 , 40* THEWI 3 /". 40*

"

40* , I

3 & M P O 9 H 4 1)3"4"/4"3"#"/ 1 1 B N 3 T F 1)":" 5)"* " O "55"1)"//03"1)" &   4

)  4 

$ 40*#6/13"301 8 :" 40* -0&5 1"/:" "

5 )"  : 5 1 40*.03-&/( 3IAM#ITY "  5 0 3 3 40* " 40*5)&1)"54"%*/ ":6 13 40*  -AKKASAN " ) 1IBZB 4* 4* $ 10-"-*5  -ARKET 5  5IBJ 3" / 0* " 3UAN ":655)":"4 ) 1  " * 0AKKAD 5 %"&/(#6/("40* " 0ALACE ) $ $ " 40*,0-*5 5 40*$)". " ) * 3 40* 40 " 4"* ) $45 4 - 0* 5 & "3". #VOH 4 3 * .BLLBTBO PRATUNAM . "  40*/$ 8655)*1"/40* /*,)0. :   0ATA .",,"4"/ "   .   * * $EPARTMENT 3 1 " .BLLBTBO 3 6 ) 6 -AKKASAN ) # 3TORE # 0 " 3BJMXBZ4UBUJPO " 40* 8"55)"/"80/( 1 " -ARKET / ) ) 3 $ "AIYOKE " $ 5 )NDRA , 5 & " & )  1 4OWERS "ANGKOK  2EGENT 1 * 0 3 0 40*1&5$)"#63* 0ALACE /   4 4  * 0 1 * 8   0 "5  4 5)" " / 0RATUNAM "4*  / #HALERMLAP  & * ) 9 1)&5$)"#63*40*1&5$)"#63* -ARKET -ARKET 3 6 -ETRO 1  $ 40*1&5$)"#63*W 40* 4".3"/ # 3 " $EPARTMENT 5 & )  $ 3TORE 4 " 40* 40*1&5$)"#63* 5 #HALERMLOK 40*)"4"%*/ 4 & 40* 1&5$)"#63* 3 1 8  0ANTIP -ARKET

"  * 1&5$)"#63* 0LAZA  40*1&5$)"#63* : 40* 0  4  3BUDIBUIFXJ 40* 1&5$)"#63*  41&5$)  1&5$) 40*1

41&5$)  41&5$)"#63* 40* 1&5$)"#63*   41&5$)"#63* 41&5$)"#63* 41&5$) 40*1 # 6 3 *  1 ) & 5 $ ) "

4 B O  4 B Q 

)SETAN 40* 40* , I M P O H  3HOPPING 4 B O  4 B Q 

#OMPLEX 1&5$)"#63* 1&5$)"#63* 40*1)3":" 40*8"5  4* 1)3":" RATTANA 5)". 46"/ KOSIN 4"3"/30.  4"/". $ ) " 30& /   5)"* 8"/( ,ANG +RASUANG O  -ARKET

3POH.P  P Wat Pho  *

. U

  &

5 P

, I M P O H - " ( 4 40*8"5/",,-"/( 40* & .

" 3 1)3"1)*1)*5 / 6 5)"5*"/ $)&561)0/ / 1)3"1)*5",

/ "  3 *

)  $ 5JFO " 

 " " (I&I   )

4 * I 0 * " % 1 5 -ARKET 40*1)"56 40*5)"/&& . B ) $)"* $ )  *  5)"1)*4&, /0,:6/( " " 0 1 " P " 4 " 5 " 1) 40*4&55)","/ 4 1 3" H  3   " O 3 .0 54 B F  5  * $ I * H / O 6EGETABLE B U P " 8 8BU M   I &LOWER P O H 7AT!RUN  , I M "SVO1 , -ARKET  8  40*130,4 *54"3"1) 1 0 4 " " I 8"5"36/5 * 40*:655)"  40*130,8"5"36/ 1 " S 3 3 0 40* 46,4" B #"/ ,IMPO 6 H , 8BU OH / Z $IBF    *54"3"1)"1  B  

8"5)0/( 40* 40* 5)",-"/(0AK+HLONG  ) " 1  0HOSAMTON 3BDIJOFF -ARKET 5 4 " 3 " 1     0 * * -ARKET 4 8"/( %0&.   J  B 7AT  : +ALAYANIMIT 1BL 4"1)"/    40* ,IMPOH 1  * " 5 *54"3"1)"1 .FNPSJBM ) L 1 4 #SJEHF 40* P " " L 3 H " 3 *54"3"1)"1 4 O " 4 5 B 0

* # * 1 40* 4 0*, ) 8 6 .FNPSJBM#SJEHF " % * *54"3"1)"1 5 "  *

  0 

40* 1  $ 4  )"  ) 1 "3"1 1 H , 4 " " "  *5 1 ) O 3" / * 4" /

40* *5 P - 

 M "    4

 :

 I *

  "

 "

 *54"3"1)"1 ,  4



 40*1)0 

 

 /  40* *54"3"1)"1   " -ARKET *   #  "  "   4  5 .  &   )  5  40  *1.      *  4 " "  /   " # :  , " 4  I 40* 5 "  & 1 M )  P 5 5)0. ) 40* $ O 1  40* *54"3"1)"1 40*,)-0/( H 4    *54"3"1)"1  8 *54"3"1)"1 *54"3"1)"1 40.%&50* B   4 U 40* *   4 " , 3  5 ) & 5 4 " # " /  B U D *54"3"1)"1 I 1 0 44$ B )"  0 "1  T 40*.0/53*4 **54"340** J U  1 13":" U I B 40**54"3"1)"1 * S B *54"3"1)"1 N  ) 40*  5

40* 40** " 40* BANGKOK YAI 4$1 *54"3"1)"1   40*  ,I $ )  MPO . H *54"3"1)"1 & # 4 BO " 40* H  *54"3"1)"1 "  40**54"3"1)"1 4 40* , BL 40**  B 3  J *54"3"1)"1    5 40**54"3"1)"1 & J -ARKET 1 ) 40* 8 1 B  

 :   * 40** 0  "5 4     * 40*  ,  1) 6 /: 40*,)"/(30/(3"1$)"./". "  4  " 4*"* 3  4" *54"3"1)"1 L ) 4 * .  1 40 "  0 * P 6 * . 4  /  )  L ( & 4 * "/ 4 4 * -6 .  0 * 3  " " H /

* " " "

) , 4 : ) 1)&5 ,"4&. /4  O *  1 -"%:"

$ 1 / 2OBINSON  /4 $ 5 5 461)"/ "

* & B ) 3 4 $ " -"%:" 40*

0 0 , ) 6 0

4 0* 1 # 3 40* $EPARTMENT40*-"%:"  40*  . 40* 4 * $ 5 5 8  &  

) 40*1)&5 0 ) 1  ,)-"* *  4 - 3TORE 0  ,"4&. * 4 &. 0  $)*/%" 4 4  ," */5)3"3"1)*5", :"  WONGWIAN H 40* O 4AKSIN -"% 40*,)"/(8"5 YAI P 40*-: 10/($)*55 M -ONUMENT 8&-63"$)*/ 3ESAWET "ANGYEERUA 40* /  I 40* 4 4 " 0 5 , -ARKET -ARKET * 40*8655)* 4"&/(.6"/(* 4 & 1 46,4" 8 )   40** -ERRY+ING 4 0* * * 5 */5)"3"1)*5",40* ) $EPARTMENT #HAROEN " " $)"30&/4$3 , 3TORE 2AT 465)*46,4" ) 4 40* 40*,)"/( * 1"./". 5 / $)"30&/ ."/4)&-- 40*5"-"5 */5)"3"1)*5", -ARKET 8POHXJBO  40*

3"5 :BJ3BJMXBZ -ARKET 40* 3"5:*/( 5 40*41$5 $)"30&/ $)"/5)"/"30/(3*"/ 4UBUJPO & 40* 4&4"8&&$) 3"536".$)"30&/ 0 46,4" 4 40*

 0

) * 5 40*40.%&5 530,  1)3"$)"0 ,

7AT+LANG 3 5",4*/ 3"$)"8"%* 6 530,/"*

-ARKET / 5)0/(#"* (

8"5,-"/( 40*530/(   ,)".5"-"5 5 4*5)0/ ) 40* 40*4",4*/ 40*40.%&5 0 3"5$)",)36  1)3"$)"0 / 40*8"5 "* 40*40.%&5 ) 5  5 1)3"$)"05",4*/ ",4*/ # $5  6 530, & 5 40*41 3 ."/"8*55)":" 40* 40*4"/$)"0 * )0 THON BURI  5 "3/&"8 

 40*40.%&5 , 3 6 / ( , 1)3"$)"0 40* I 8"5 5",4*/ 8POHXJBO M 1)05)* 30/($)& P :BJ O , 3 6 / (  H  4"3"1)* 4 0 *  /*.*5  40*,36/(5)0/#63*  40*40.%&5 4 6,  1)3"$)"0 40* B 1 3 4*/ 5",4*/ N ", )"  5 S )"0 F $ , 3" I  3"5$ 1) M  5 P / %& 40*40.%&51)3"05",4*/ O 40. $)" H 0*  4 1)3"$)"05",4*/40*40.%&5 # 40*40.%&51)3" B $)"05",4*/ O 5 ) " / 0 H  40*4".1":" /

B  N  40* .%&51)3"$) 40.%&51)3"$)"05",4*/0 "05",4*/ $ 0*4 I .03$)6# 4 P O  40*,-0/(5)0. 40*/"8"/( 8"51)3"1)*3&/ 4#63*30. 40* 3ALA - 6 " / ( 40* 

,36/( $)"30&/ 4".:05 , #HALERMKRUNG   #63*30.  40* $)"0 4HEATER  40* N  #63*30.  ,  3 6 / (  / & 8  F  3 0 $  " % ,)".301 T 4   B " -ERRY #ENTRAL  40*#"/(,0, , :0.."3"  #ENTRAL * 40* 1)  4$, #ENTRAL +INGS -ARKET *5 " " 5 / (OSPITAL #"/, ) -6"/( H $)"30&/ ,36/( " 3UPER 3 " 4$, $EPT O ) $)"0 $ 6 1 )  V 546,)6.  ."*53* MARKET S # 3TORE .")"$)", 1

46"1" " , 1)&5 *  $)"30&/,36/( /&830"%  #ENTRAL 4$, $)"30&/ ( / ,)".301 - 3 4 &  40* $, ,36/( /  .")" $)"* 6 0 ) 40*  0 4  $EPT3TORE /",)0/ ) 3 1 ,"4&. .AKORN 40* ."/(,0/   # $ " 1)")63" 40* /",)0/  ) ."/(,0/   +ASEM $ ."/(,0/ ,"4&. # H 5  :,5 H " . ."/(,0/ O "*53*  * 53* O 4*5)"."5)*3"5 - V  0 " ) 4 E 5 3AMPENG $)*5  0HAHURAT " CHINATOWN 1 B 8*8"540* I ) 40* 8  -ARKET :*4*140/( .  1 1 +HLONG , -ARKET  H & * 5 40* O 4HOM . H 3 $ , 4 8*"/( 0 0 " 4$,36/( ) O 0 "%", , P " " -ARKET (,"3 .*553"1)"/ # " 0/ M #". 4*14 :, 8 : 4$ :* PHAHURAT 36/(3"5 , I # 40* " 40* 8 01 1)0 1)"/*5 ,36/( , )*5 "  0 $, "/ 1*. ,  530, ( 46"1 $)"0  6 3 " 8 $$ 4"*  , 40*$, 4"/5*1)"1 H  ) " #ATHAY  O , $ 3 $)",P 1)&5 " $EPARTMENT3TORE 4"/5*1)"1 ( M 4 " , ) " -AI I 5 530, / " . 40&.4*/,)" .",)". , 1 40*1)"-*55  " 6 . & 40* -ARKET / $,  ) ( 530, 3 .",)".530,1)"/  0 / (  40*$, $  , ( 53"$)*5 * 8 "1)0/   / 1 " " " 4,- 3 " +AO 0/(5)0. , ,  /". ) - 1-"&/( .*553"1)"/ 530, )  , $ " 1 -ARKET $)*55" 0  6 5 / 6 "/680/( 3 " ,"4&.  % & ."*53* 0 5 " /  %"0 .  1)"%6/( "  3 " 5 4 *   3 3 "  1 5 /   ) "  " " *   4 40* ) " 1)65 0 /  3   . 40*/"/" 40*1)*30. SAMPHAN40 " ) 1 4 1 ) " * 5 " $)*5 530, "  4 : ,3"*5)"."4 " * " -".1)6/ "/   8  $)"* 5 * * 0 ."/(,0/ 0 " 7 5"1)"/:"0 530,,3"* 0 8 " "- 7AT 4 4 46,0/ 0 : " , 530, 1ISB1PL / 4RAIMIT ( 40/( 4"8"5 3 ,MBP#SJEHF 40* 8 " $)"30&/,36/( /&830"% " 5 *5 5  40*10-*5 5)"/".  .   4"1)"

4"/$)"0  *  46,0/4 3BUDIBXPOHTF 5 3 /

0 

7ONGWIAN , 

6 THAWONG . ,EK-ARKET 4  40*,-0/(     * 5 * %JO ,0/(,)" . 0 5)0.1"5)6.  4 " " %BFOH 4 3 *

: 0 5 0 -"/ 3 " / ," 

3 ( 1  8 N

" " 5 F

40*  45 4POH  T

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

4$3 /",)0/ / 4$3 4$3

4$3 &

4$3 8 40* 40*-"% 4$3 $)"30&/ $ 40*-"% ( :"4$3 )  :" 4$3 / 6 3 :" 40*$)"30&/3"5 3 -"%4$3 , 4$3 / 0 4$3"5 40*$)"30&/ " 0&  /",)0/ )"3  4$3 *$  40  "% 3 $)"30&//",)0/ ,SPN  4$3  #ENTRAL  4$3   1SJTBOFF 40*$)"30&/ 0 0OST/FFICE /",)0/ 40* ,3   40* & 0&/ 6/ ( 4$3 )"3 40* 40*$ 3"5 $)"30&/ /  3"5 8BU.VBOH $)"30&/  ,BF /",)0/ KHLONG SANH  40*$)"30&/ 1 I M F O 5 I P O H  /",)0/ U  $) 40*  B "30&// ,)0/ 8 " / 40*$)"30&/ H  40* M P O /",)0/ -ANDARIN , I &/ /",)0/  " $)"30&/,36/( 30 /RIENTAL

)" , 530,:&/$)*5 40* $

) 40*$)"30&/ 40*$, /",)0/ /RIENTAL

0 0LAZA 40* /

$)"30&//",)0/ 530,   0SJFOUBM

8"/"8"/ 40*$)"30&/ 0ENINSULA /",)0/ (OTEL 40 * $)"30 40* 40* &/ /" $)"30&//",)0/ ,)0/  $)"30&/  ,36/(

40* 40*$)"30&/ 4IBOHSJ-B 

,36/( /",)0/ 40*,36/( 40*

5)0/#63*

5)0/#63* 5 ) 0 "ANGKOK $)"30&/ / #6 3 * ,SVOH ,36/( , %VNBLF 3HOPPING 5IPOCVSJ 3 6 3HANGRI ,A  5 ) 0 / # 6 3 * , / ( #OMPLEX 3 6  / ( 5) 40*$,  0 /  4 " 3 " 1 ) *  # 5BLTJO#SJEHF  5" 5 6 3 5 . " 40*,36/( .00#"/,)6/1"/40* ) 0 * "ANGRAK *  /  40*$,  # 5)0/#63* 6 3 -ARKET 40* $)"30&/ /",)0/  / *  40*$, 40*,36/( 0 5)0/#63* ) 4BQIBO , 5BLTJO 530, " 46/( /  4BUIPSO $FOUSBM / 40*$)"30&/ & 3UPPHAKAN ,36/( $)"30&/40* 040 /",)0/ 3 *$ 3HOPPING )"3 40*$)"30&/ " 0& / #OMPLEX ,36/( ) /" $)"30&//",)0/ , 40*$)"30&/ $ 40* )0  / ,36/(  40*5$1 3 " . "   *  #HAROENPHOL 4"/ -ARKET 4"/

4"/  40*,"4&.

40*,"4&. 40*  : 3"."* 40*,"4&. 3IAM 3 0/( .6"/( " 40*$)6-" #ENTRAL 3IAM -0/(,03/ /BUJPOBM 3IAM 4JBN 8 0ARAGAN 4UBEJVN $ISCOVERY 4 $FOUSBM 40* 30/( 4 40*$)6-" & 4OKYU 3"." .6"/( -0/(,03/ .ATIONAL 3  3TADIUM $EPARTMENT 1 40*$)6-" 40* 30/( 3TORE 9 -0/(,03/ SIAM 40*442

& $)6-"-0/(,03/ 40*442  4442 .6"/( 40* $)6-"-0/(,03/4442 40*442

40*442 5)0/(40*$)6-" 40* SQUARE 40* 30/(

-0/(,03/ 40*4 42

40*4 .6"/( -AHBOONKRONG  42 .6"/( 40*4 42 -0 3HOPPING "RITISH 4 0 *  5 ) $ ) 6 #OMPLEX #OUNCIL - " - 0 , / ( , 0  3 /  $)"3"5 ( 40*   40* 30/( .6"/($)6-"  -  PATHUM / 0/(,03/  40* $)6-"-0/(,03/ .6"/( 0/(,03/ "

# 40*$)6-"  #"/5)" -0/(,03/ *

$)6-"- " $)6-"-0/(,03/ 30/( 40*$)6-" 3UAN 40* ) -0/(,03/ ,UANG 5 

" -ARKET

8"5%6"/(,)"& : 40*  $)"30&/ 40* " 40*$)6-"-0/(,03/$)6-"-0/(,03/ ) .6"/( )VB 1 40*$)6-"- 0/(,03/ 40* $)6-"-0/(,03/ -BNQPOH #HULALONGKORN 4UBUJPO 5NIVERSITY 0RATHUMWAN 530,4"-",)*/ 40* 40* #"/5)"5 3INAICHA 5)0/(  2INTHARAWIRAT 530, 40* #"/5)"5 $)6-"-0/(,03/ 5)0/( 5)0/(  5NIVERSITY 1):"4*/(4&/* 40* #"/5)"5  5)0/( 1)":" 5)"*   3 1 40*46/5)0/1)*.0-  * 40*#"/5)"5 40* 0 4 5)0/( 40*#"/5)"5 )VB 5)0/(  -BNQPOH 40* 3TADIUM  40*#"/5)"5 #HARUSATHIAN  3"565*5 5)0/(  40* 

 530 48"5%* 40*#5 $ , 40*#"/5)"5 $)6-"-0/(,03/  ,3  6 #"/5)"55)0/( )MAGING / 40*#5 40* ( 4ECHNOLOGY  530,-"0 4"8"/( 3"." *7 40* $ -USEUM 40* $)6-"-0/(,03/ )6-" -0/(,0 40*$)6-" 3/  40*$)6-"  5 -0/(,03/ -0/(,03/ 3& #HULALONGKORN )" %6/"/5 , 40*$ 40* 40* 40*4"8"/( " 40*$ 5NIVERSITY ./ / 40*$)6-" 40* 4")"   40*$)"30&/,*53 -0/(,03/  .*5  40*1)3":"%".30/() / 1 * 0 .0346/ 0 40* 4 40*$ 40* ,*5 1)"/*5 ) ./ 4"8"/( $)6-"-0/(,03/ 40*$)6-"-0/(,03/  40* , ,"&0'" 530, 0/(,03/ " 40*40/(1)3" -ANDARIN #HULA 3NAKE / 40*$)0.40.#6/40*$)*/%" 40* 4 4ECHNOLOGY &ARM 40* 0 5)"8*/ ./ 4"8"/( * 4OWERS  40* 4"8"/(  4" 4BN:BO 1) )&/3* " 40*$)6-"- / 40  5 * 3"." *7 *" 13":"40.#6/ / "  40* " 1"/:" 8

) 530,-"/(8"5 4* "

)6"-".1)0/( 5 "  )

40*,"&0'"

6 -ONTIEN

. " -

13":" 4"1 " 5

.

4* 3 1

0 PATPONG , ) , I 0  M 4AWANA ( P / /

1 ( 0 O 1"510/( ) 2AMADA  81"510/( &OODLAND 1 40*4"/5*1)"1 H "

& 0AN  /"3&5 3  463"80/(  5  6 ) ( 4 $EPARTMENT /  5"/*:" 0ACIFIC 6 $&/5&3  ,3 1 40* ":  40*5)"/ 3TORE /  5)"8"/ &  ) $ 40*4*-0. 30 -ORPHETCH 1)"1 I $)" - 0 P -ORPHLOY  * O 4BMB "    40* 4"/5* H -ARKET   "/(-0 %BFOH 5 (   1-";" 36 / ( 40* / , 5  / & 40*4*-0. ) 30 4 0 0 "  0 8 / 4*-0. ) P PATPONG $ " " 4*-0. "   5 )   6 5 3 40*      1 ) 6 O * * 4 T  40 * 0 4 J   #ELADON  4*- 40* # 

BANG RAK 0. (OUSE  "    1"-"/" "ANGKOK /( 4*-0.40* 36$)"0."&1-" 40* /   , #HRISTIAN /   .EILSON (AYS  40*4"-" 0& 40*4"/ %&$)0 5 "3 13"%*5 40*  40*13"$)6. 4*-0.40* %"&/( ) ( 40* "/6."/ 3"+%)0/ * $ "1)*"/ (OSPITAL 413"4""/ ,IBRARY 40 40*4*-0. $0/7&/5 4 , ( 0 / 40*4*-  * ) 4HAI 80 4 " 40*4*-0. 40*4*- * 3 - - 40*4*-0. !IRWAYS 4 6 0

0 . 0. (1  40*4*-0.  0.  4*-40*   05 40*4*-0. 3ILOM  ". 40* 13".05 3   *1 4*-0. 0LAZA 40 3ILOM 40* 40* 13".05 .ARAI & 6ILLAGE  .")&4",  0 4*-0.40*  $IPOH 9 40*13".0544*-0. 4*-0. #OMPLEX 0. 44*-0. 44 40*  /POTJ 1)*1)"5 1   1)*1)"5 / 3 /  40* 4 4*-0.  40* " 4 & 4*-0. 44*-0.  "   40*46,4"8*55)":" 3 3 #ITY  "  #ENTRAL " 4 0LAZA 40* 1)*1)"5 / 5 3 5 8 $EPARTMENT 0 13".6"/ 0 4*-0. 40* ) )  ) 5 40*46,4"8*55)":" 3TORE * " /  " * 4 3 4*-0. 8 8 0

: ) " 5 " " 463"4", (OLIDAY)NN  5 4 1"/ 5  #ROWNE0LAZA   40*5)*"/

4*"/( 3 " 4VLTBJXJUUBZB , 3 $ I *  QMBOOFE " ) M 4 0 P $ " O  ) H / 4* 8*"/( 40*1*,6- "  4* 8*"/(  " " / 6 , "  / " 40*4"*/5-06*4

(  40*4"*/5-06*4 , * 3

/ "

" 5 "  *

* 3/ 0 2OBOT"UILDING 3 /

8 )  $)"36/ 5 "ANKOF!SIA *  5 " 3/ / 8*"/( 4 4 $ " 0 $)"30&/ 0 )  I 40* 3 * 3 8*"/( 5  P " " 4 4 O 0 )  " 3 H $ "  * 4VSBTBL / 0 % 5 "     - % / 0 " , " "3 SATHO P 6 *5 / 40 O *  530,#"/#"# 4 T  J      * 40* 1*$)"* )" 1*$ * 40   )SETAN 3HOPPING (ILTON #OMPLEX )NTERNATIONAL 7ORLD4RADE -0. .ARAYANA0HAND "ANGKOK #ENTER 30"% $EPARTMENT #ENTRAL7ORLD 3TORE 0LAZA 40*3"5$)"%".3*

40*36&/36%* 4!4$UTY (" )NTER#ONTINENTAL * : &REE3HOP  4 'AY 0 "ANGKOK 0HLOEN#HIT

3 :EN 3ORN / #ENTRAL !RCADE3HOPPING  40* $)*5 $EPARTMENT 0LAZA $EPARTMENT3TORE #OMPLEX 40*46,)6.7*5

3TORE 0&5 %RAWAN 1)-0&/

'ENERAL 8*55)":6 8*3&-&44 3HRINE $)*5 0OLICE $IJU-PN 40*46,)6.7*5 'RAND(YATT 1IMPFO 40*/"*- 4OURIST (OSPITAL %RAWAN 3HOPPING $IJU &BTUFSO#VT 4!4$UTY 0LAZA WAN 0ENINSULA &REE3HOP 4 6 , 5FSNJOBM ) 6 0LAZA -AHATUN . $ 7 0LAZA3HOPPING * ) -ARKET 5 

0 46,)6.7*5 40* #OMPLEX 46,)6.7*5 40* 40*.")"5-&,-6"/( "

-

40* 50/40/ &

4HE 3

.

2EGENT 30"% ,ANDMARK 40*.")"5-&, 40* 36". 36%* 3ILOM ,E-ÏRIDIEN  0LAZA -6"/( 40* -"/( 46"/ 0LAZA 0LAZA!THÏNÏE "ANGKOK 40*36". 40* 36%* -"/(46"/ ." .")"5-&,-6"/(40* 2OYAL 40* "ANGKOK -"/(46"/ ) 3BUDIBEBNSJ 40* " 3PORTS#LUB

/ 40* 50/40/ -"/(46"/

" * !5!  36%* 36". 40* , -"/(46"/

)

40*36". 0 40* 40* -"/(46"/ 36%*

& /

40* -"/(46"/ 40*36". 40*4"." 36%* )"/ 40* 8*55)":6 8*3&-&44 40*6-*5 -"/(46"/

)"%".3 9 40*36".

1 $ 40* -"/( 46"/ 40* 36". 36%* 36%*

3 5

& 4"3"4*/ " 4

8 4 3

":

40*10-0

40*10-0 40*1



40*10-0 -6.1)*/* 40* 4"/". ,)-*

#HULALONGKORN (OSPITAL

1"3, 40* 1)3" $)&/ 2AMA6) 3TATUE

2OBINSONS 4JMPN

3ILOM $USIT #OMPLEX 4HANI

8*55)":6 8*3&-&44,UMPHINI"OXING 30"% 3TADIUM -VNQIJOJ  40*:0.."3"5 4 " - " 4"-" %"&/( 40*1-6,$)*5

  5

40* 3"." *7 * $)0/(3",/03"4*

)

$

, %" 4"-" %"&/( 6 40* - 40* 4BUIPSO 40* &/( 1 40*  1-6,$)*5 *  ,IMPOH 0 4 3APHANDAM 'OETHE -ARKET 4HAI7AH))4OWER  " )NSTITUTE " 7ESTIN"ANYAN 4REE 13"4*555)","/ / 6  *  !LLIANCE " &RANÎAISE 3UKHOTHAI

5 46"/1)-640* "ANGKOK 

5   " * + 40* " / 8 ) * ) 1 5 " 46"/1)-6 / " 4 / 40* 4"1)"/,)6 / 40*  * 40* 1):"1)*3&/ " " 4 0 " ) 3 / 1 5)"/"4*-1 " 8 : 5" #".1)&/ 4* 40* "

6 40* 4 ) 1)6/  46, $

" ) *  ) 40* 0 5 4  4*55)* 6 4 / 0 *  " * 13"4"5 "  0 / 4 1  ",4*/ 40* * )  - 1 5 3 - 3 ) * 0 46"/1)-640* * 6 % 0 46"/1)-6 0 $0 1 *   & 4 35 6 " 40*",4*/ / 4 %  " ( 3 40* ,3"*4*) 1  * 0 YAN  NAWA  4 " . 40* 130/( $)"* ( /  *  5 0 " 40*4*36/( RN 4 +"$,$)*" 4 , " 4  0 * :  4"*5)* & 40*.&,4"8"5 / / 40*13"4"546, " &  , "5 : 



THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 97

EASTERN SEABOARD

hailand’s Eastern Seaboard is a region of contrasts. While it is the nation’s most developed region with ports, oil refineries, Tand industrial complexes, it is also home to picturesque and untouched islands. Travelers can explore the varied dimensions of this region, which include commercial resorts, verdant archipelagos with pristine beaches of white sand, and little-visited national parks, all of which lie within easy reach of Bangkok.

Stretching from Bangkok to the less popular resorts such as Sri Cambodian border, the Eastern Racha, famous for its seafood, Seaboard was originally a or to the stunning frontier between the Khmer and Phliw or Khao Kitchakut Sukhothai empires in the 15th national parks whose interiors shelter century. As the Khmer empire a wealth of flora and fauna. Pattaya declined, ethnic Tais settled continues to attract crowds of visitors here attracted by the region’s to its go-go bars, restaurants, and natural resources. They were raucous nightclubs. However, joined by Vietnamese refugees more intrepid travelers can go fleeing persecution in Cambodia diving among Ko Chang’s reefs in the 19th century. or relax on its pristine beaches. Industrial development in this Ko Samet is a popular weekend area is aided by its proximity to destination from Bangkok, while Bangkok. The older occupations of those interested in traditional Thai gem-mining and fishing coexist with crafts can head to Chanthaburi’s the newer oil and tourism industries. historical gem market to see the Good road links have helped in spectacular collection of gemstones. economic growth as well as tourism. With its vibrant nightlife, neon-lit However, this also has a downside, streets, luxury resorts, virgin beaches, as many of the beaches have become and traditional fishing villages, the too crowded. Visitors can head south Eastern Seaboard holds a wealth of farther away from Bangkok, to the attractions for a first-time visitor.

Gaudy neon signs hanging overhead, along the famous Walking Street in South Pattaya

Holiday-makers relaxing in a thatched beachside restaurant-bar in Ko Chang 98 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Eastern Seaboard Blessed with miles of idyllic beaches and warm temperatures, the Eastern Seaboard is a sun lover’s paradise. Visitors can choose to just unwind and enjoy the local food or try some of the many available watersports. Beach resorts range from busy Pattaya, with its lively nightlife, to lesser-known islands such as Ko Chang, part of a stunning national marine park. Other national parks such as Khao Kitchakut and Nam Tok Phliw are characterized by tropical forests, mountains, and waterfalls, and are home to a wealth of wildlife. The main town in the area is Chanthaburi, Thai-style pavilion with landscaping center of the thriving gem-mining industry. at Nong Nooch Tropical Garden

#BOHLPL 1IBOBU/JLIPN $IVN/VN SIGHTS AT A GLANCE 1SPL'B $)0/#63* Towns and Villages /POH4BNFU Ban Hat Lek p #"/(4"&/ 2 Bang Saen #P5IPOH +

"ANG0HRA H Chanthaburi pp114–15 9 L 2ESERVOIR O ,)"0,)*&0;00 N Chonburi 1 G ,04*  43*3"$)" /POH:BJ 0

R

Laem Ngop e $)"/( A

S

A Pattaya pp104–8 7 43*3"$)"5*(&3;00 I Sri Racha 4 Trat w #BOH-BNVOH 1MVBL%BFOH #VOH4BO +O /BLMVB /HBN National Parks and Zoos 0HAI Khao Khieo Zoo 3 1"55":" 8BOH$IBOH

+O G Khao Kitchakut N ,ARN O Y

National Park 0 A ,IBP-PJ Nam Tok Phliw 2 /POH/PPDI #BO$IBOH #BO,IBJ National Park q 7JMMBHF Sri Racha Tiger Zoo 5 +O+RAM 9AI 3BZPOH #BO1IF Beaches and Islands 4BUUBIJQ +O3AKET Hat Ban Chuen o Hat Sai Kaew y +O3AMAESAN Hat Sai Ngam t +O#HUANG ,04".&5 Hat Samran i Hat Thap Thim u SEE ALSO Ko Chang pp118–26 r • Where to Stay pp294–8 Ko Samet pp110–13 8 • Where to Eat pp322–4 Ko Si Chang pp102–3 6

Sunbathing on the beaches of South Pattaya

For additional map symbols see back flap EASTERN SEABOARD 99

GETTING AROUND The Eastern Seaboard has a comprehensive transport system with the bigger islands well connected not only to each other, but also to the mainland. A twice daily train service runs from Hua Lampong Station in Bangkok to Sri Racha and Pattaya, while Trat is served by a domestic airport. Buses are the easiest way to get around the region – there is a regular service from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal to the main towns. For places not on bus routes, songthaews are available. On the mainland, transportation is provided by song- thaews, and tuk-tuks. Several ferries leave Ban Phe each day for Ko Samet. On the island, songthaews serve the main beaches, and longtail boats can be hired to reach sur- rounding islands. Ko Chang and Ko Mak are reached by ferry from Laem Ngop, but infrastructure on these islands is poor.

Locals fishing on the pier at Sattahip

-BFN 5BNVO KEY +HAO3OI$AO.UA  FT /PO,IB Expressway +HAO3OI$AO.UA +HAO#HAMAO+HAO Major road 7ONG.ATIONAL0ARK 7ILDLIFE3ANCTUARY 1POH/BN3PO +HAO#HAMAO Minor road  FT /BN,IVO /POH4BNFU Railway ,)"0,*5$)",65 /POH$IFL4PJ /"5*0/"-1"3, ,MBFOH International border I AB Peak 7AT+HAO R 1BL/BN1SBTBF + 3UKIM G .BLIBN N /POH,IBMB O L

+ +O-AN $IBOH5IVO +LANG 5IB.BJ $)"/5)"#63* #P3BJ +O-AN .OK /".50,1)-*8 /"5*0/"-1"3, %BO$IVNQPO ,IMVOH 5IB$IPU

,IBP 4BNJOH #BOH,SBEBO #BOH/PFO4VOH 53"5 -"&./(01

)"54"*/(".

,0$)"/( -BFN4PL )"54"*,"&8 )"55)"15)*. )"54".3"/ +O7AI #BO.BJ3VU

+O+HAM +O )"5#"/$)6&/ -AK +O2ANG 0 km 15

0 miles 15 +O ,IMPOH:BJ +UT

#"/)"5-&, 100 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Beautiful white flamingoes, one of the many bird species found at the Khao Khieo Zoo

Chonburi 1 beautiful murals adorning the Bang Saen (Thais prize pale walls of the bot. Another skin and usually avoid 'G7iF temple, Wat Dhamma Nimitr, sunbathing), while adults, which houses a 121-ft (37-m) especially women, can be Road Map D1. 50 miles (80 km) SE high image of the Buddha found huddling under of Bangkok. * 250,000. £ c _ covered in gold mosaic tiles, parasols on the sand, Chonburi Water Buffalo Racing (Oct). is also well worth a visit. enjoying their picnics. The beach is an ideal place for a Capital of the Chonburi walk, particularly at dusk. 2 province and hub of the Bang Saen This is the time when vendors Eastern Seaboard’s industrial 7T$VK6 start grilling seafood along the zone, Chonburi has earned boardwalk. Deck chairs, inflat- itself the epithet “Thailand’s Road Map D1. 9 miles (14 km) SW able tyres, and bicycles are Detroit”. The town’s Nacha Sa of Chonburi. * 25,000. c available for hire. Thai Chue Shrine, a four-story Nong Mon market, near the building located near the river This pleasant beachfront town center of the town, has stalls pier, draws large crowds. This makes for an ideal day trip, offering produce from every brightly colored Chinese and is a favorite destination corner of Thailand. Highly temple houses several deities. for Thais seeking an escape recommended is the delect- The Wat Yai Inthraram, from the big cities and their able khao larm – a traditional located near the old market, endless suburbs. It is not dessert made of sweet sticky belongs to the Ayutthaya unusual to find entire families rice, coconut milk, taro, period (see pp40–41) as is from Bangkok vacationing bananas, and peanuts – evident from the architecture here; weekends are especially served in a bamboo cylinder. of its bot and wihan. The busy. Kids play fully clothed Bang Saen does not have wat’s hightlight is a series of in the warm waters of Hat much of a nightlife and is quiet in the evenings – an ideal alternative to nearby Pattaya (see p104–8).

Khao Khieo Zoo 3 KH6K2HgU!TU! EH

Road Map D1. Off Route 344, 10 miles (16 km) SE of Chonburi. Tel 0-3829-8195. £ @ # 8am– 6pm daily; night safari till 9pm. & 8 0 =

This open zoo has over 50 species of birds and animals, including flamingoes, deer, gibbons, zebras, snakes, and tigers. The animals inhabit spacious enclosures, while birds are kept in a large aviary. Vacationers relaxing under colorful umbrellas on pleasant Hat Bang Saen There is a separate section

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 EASTERN SEABOARD 101

from where visitors, including children, can buy food to feed the sheep, deer, turtles, and other animals. The night safari, which goes on till 9pm, is an added attraction. Covering an area of 3 sq miles (8 sq km), a day at the zoo can mean a lot of walking. It is advisable to hire a bicycle or make use of the trams that chug through the park. The wild marshland of Bang Phra Reservoir, 12 miles Fierce competition during the Water Buffalo Racing, Chonburi (19 km) south of Khao Khieo, is an ornithologist’s haven, CHONBURI WATER BUFFALO RACING where the brown-spotted Thailand’s version of the Kentucky Derby comes in the whimbrel, among other spe- form of the three-day-long, bareback water buffalo racing cies, can be seen during the competition, which takes place in October every year. cool season (see p36 ). Riding for trophies and prizes, the jockeys and cheering crowds take the event quite seriously, with a lot of illegal betting happening on the side. The buffaloes are whipped to get them to start sprinting, and the furious animals often throw the jockeys right off their backs. The event takes place in front of the Chonburi Town Hall and features buffalo strength competitions, a Miss Farmer beauty contest, and an outrageous, yet unique, buffalo “fashion show”.

Sri Racha wallabies, and over 10,000 crocodiles. Its accompanying 5 Tiger Zoo circus features crocodile KH6UKNJF FT'T wrestling; the record-breaking Scorpion Queen, who poses Road Map D1. 6 miles (10 km) SE for photographs covered in of Sri Racha. Tel 0-3829-6556-8. deadly scorpions; and some # 8am–6pm daily. & 8 0 = hilarious dancing hogs. www.tigerzoo.com The zoo’s restaurant serves a variety of dishes made from With probably the largest crocodile, scorpion, and other Local delicacies on display at a collection of tigers in the exotic curiosities, designed seafood stall, Sri Racha world, the Sri Racha Tiger chiefly to appeal to the pal- Zoo is worth a visit, especially ates of visitors from countries Sri Racha 4 for families with children. such as China and Korea. Apart from the 400 beautifully There is also a shop selling JF FT'T groomed Royal Bengal tigers, memorabilia such as T-shirts, Road Map D1. 12 miles (19 km) S the zoo also houses Indian mugs, and wall-hangings. The of Chonburi. * 20,000. £ @ g elephants, birds and animals zoo can be reached by tuk- _ Songkran Si Maha Racha Festival such as ostriches and tuk from Sri Racha. (Apr 19–21). (Rice offerings to spirits). Famous for its seafood and the spicy nam prik (Sri Racha pepper sauce) – Thailand’s answer to Tabasco sauce – this sleepy seaside town is the jumping-off point for trips to Ko Si Chang (see pp102–3). Several piers run off Jermjompol Road, Sri Racha’s main waterfront street. At the end of each pier are breezy open-air restaurants, ideal for sampling delicious local delicacies such as hoi nang rom (oysters) and hoi thot (fried mussels) dipped in the famous fiery sauce. A fully grown Royal Bengal tiger at the Sri Racha Tiger Zoo 102 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Si Chang 6 U TSK '$ A small and lovely island getaway, Ko Si Chang’s rugged coastline has few coves or beaches, but is surrounded by clear waters that attract divers. The island has royal associations as it was the summer retreat Laughing of several kings of the Chakri Dynasty as Buddha statue well as an erstwhile French colony for a brief period in 1893 and still retains traces of this heritage. Several ruins stand testament to the history of the island which was once a customs check- point for Bangkok-bound ships. Ko Si Chang, today, is a quiet holiday spot resplendent in its natural beauty, home to a variety of nesting seabirds and the yellow Visitors sunbathing at Ko Si Chang’s squirrel which is endemic here. bustling beach, Hat Tham Pang

 Saan Chao Paw Khao Yai views of the sea and the into a series of limestone JTGU%wTAtNU!TXL*t harbor. Visitors can also caves. The monastery was # dawn to dusk daily. explore other caves in the discovered by the highly An aura of mystery surrounds area, many of which have revered Buddhist monk, Prasit this colorful, multitiered been turned into shrines. Thavaro, in 1970. He added Chinese temple, which dates The Chinese New Year (see to its existing spartan form, back to the Chinese Ming p37) is the biggest festival nearly rebuilding the entire dynasty (1368–1644). It is here, drawing large crowds. structure along with his commonly believed that a A trail from the temple monks. His teachings shrine was built at this site by leads to a small shrine revolved around a self suf- Chinese seafarers after they housing what locals claim ficient existence and inner spotted a light shining from a is the Buddha’s footprint. peace that are still practised cave, which they used as a at the monastery. The monks makeshift lighthouse for navi-  Wat Tham Yai Prik tend to a vegetable garden set gation and which kept them H13wETE8F` up by Thavaro that provides safe. The temple was built Tel 0-3821-6104. # 8am–6pm for the whole monastery. He some time later, mainly for daily. 8 www.watthamyaiprik.com died in 2007 and his body Chinese pilgrims. A steep Also known as the Tham Yai was embalmed and kept for a flight of stairs leads up to the Prik Vipassana Meditation year before it was cremated. temple and offers picturesque Center, this monastery is built A relic has been preserved for devotees to pay their respects.

L Hat Tham Pang LT13†Ak$ 0 = A backpackers’ hangout, Hat Tham Pang is a thin and long crescent of white sand on the west coast of the island. This is Ko Si Chang’s only real beach, with a few guesthouses and beachfront restaurants serving local deli- cacies as well as Western food. Visitors can also avail of camping facilities. This beach can be reached by motorized samlors (bicycle rickshaws) from the pier. These take 30 minutes and cost around 80 baht. Deck- chairs, umbrellas, kayaks, and snorkeling gear can be easily hired on this beach. The clear waters are good for snorkeling but enthusiasts usually head south for a more Devotee offering prayers at the temple of Saan Chao Paw Khao Yai dazzling array of corals.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 EASTERN SEABOARD 103

T Palace of Rama V VISITORS’ CHECKLIST H$F' TG4poL†T # 9am–5pm daily. 0 Road Map D1. 8 miles (13 km) The overgrown ruins of this W of Sri Racha. * 6,000. 19th-century palace, also n TAT, Pattaya (0-3842-7667). known as Phra Chutathut g from Sri Racha. _ Chinese Ratchasathan, are currently New Year (Jan–Feb); Rama V under renovation. This golden Festival (Sep). teak palace was designed by Rama V (1868–1910) who used it as a sanctuary for samlors from the pier, the members of the royal family beach is an ideal picnic spot. in summer. The ruins are of A handful of restaurants and particular interest to visitors shops have sprung up in who have seen the grand recent times along with a few Vimanmek Mansion (see p71) other facilities. These include in Bangkok. The structure Thai massages as well as fresh was originally located at this Tourist speedboat anchored in the seafood barbequed right on site until it was moved, in waters off Hat Sai Kaew the beach. Hat Sai Kaew is an 1901, to Dusit Park. ideal snorkeling base for the Surrounded by lotus ponds L Hat Sai Kaew tiny islands near the southern and frangipani trees, a visit LT14FTEV †H tip of the island. On a calm to these ruins can take up 0 = day, snorkelers can follow to half a day. One of the Also known as Crystal Beach, the rocky coastline southward restored villas has a display Hat Sai Kaew is a remote to view the rich coral reefs of Rama V’s memorabilia beach on the island’s east teeming with a variety of and a new site under con- coast. Best reached by marine animals. struction aims to symbolize the king’s association with Ko Si Chang. Rama V’s birthday is celebrated here in a grand ,P4J$IBOH manner with a son et lumière &BTUFSO4FBCPBSE show and a beauty pageant showcasing period fashions. 4BBO$IBP 1BX,IBP:BJ (VMGPG  Wat Atsadang 5IBJMBOE H1NI+T$"g # dawn to dusk daily. Located on top of a hill, close to the ruins of the Palace of Rama V, is Wat Atsadang with 3RI2ACHA its distinctive white chedi. The MILESKM )BU,IBP temple is best explored on ,IBU foot while exploring the pal- 0 meters 500 ace ruins. The wat, the only part of the palace complex 0 yards 500 that remains intact, is quite 8BU5IBN unusual in its architecture. It :BJ1SJL has a Sri Lankan-style round )BU5IBN chedi while the bot and the 5IB are constructed in 5IFXBXPOH European style with stained- glass windows. 8BU "UTBEBOH )BU 5IBN1BOH

1BMBDFPG 3BNB7 KEY Beach Wat Ferry service Minor road )BU4BJ ,BFX Trail The ornate gateway of the Palace Ferry route of Rama V at Ko Si Chang 104 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Pattaya 7 The temple complex hosts a variety of other activities such A4ET as dolphin training, horseback Originally a quiet fishing village, Pattaya, was riding, and speedboat excursions. Visitors can also transformed in the 1960s and 1970s by the arrival watch classical Thai dance of US servicemen on R&R (Rest and Recreation) performances while dining. during the Vietnam War. Its subsequent reputa- tion was built on the sex trade, and the Ao Naklua industry continues to thrive; but today, Pattaya N€TH6TU GN has much more to offer. With more than 2 miles (3 km) N of Hat Pattaya. 5 million visitors a year, it has emerged as 0 = Thailand’s premier resort. Upscale hotels, With fishermen setting out Entrance to from the pier every morning Crocodile Farm restaurants, theme parks, adventure sports, and returning at sundown numerous golf courses, and cabaret shows with the day’s catch, Ao are just a few of its many attractions. A watersport Naklua, or Naklua Bay, has enthusiast’s haven, windsurfing and kiteboarding are still managed to preserve the especially popular in Pattaya. erstwhile charm of Pattaya.

"P/BLMVB 4BODUVBSZPG5SVUI , /" -6" 40 * " 6 -

/" ", ,-6"

"/

4 *

 6"

#6 -  ,

"55": / "

 / 1 36&  1 "/( )  0  5*4 %0-1)*/ "/ $*3$-&  







  /03

 5)

(  1 " 5 5

/  ":" 1"

6 5 5":" /&6

& ( "  

/

*

/ " (

B .

0

4 /

4

 Z " * "

" 4

* B " ) :

U 4 " $ "  5 U 5 4 "  5 " : * B " "  " / 1 : 1 5   " "   5 5 ) U ) " 5 1  $ 1  B " * "  1 0  &  )  4  #  $&/53"-   " "  "P :     : 1 "  "  1 " . 55": " 5 5  5 1BUUBZB & 5"   5  5  " :" " " 4   , -  /  " Jet skis parked along Hat Pattaya as their riders take a break 1 1 "  / (    "   ,        * 8 " 3JQMFZT#FMJFWF   6 :   0   4 4 " -PDBM#VT      5 *UPS/PU    5         " 4UBUJPO   * 8  1 L Hat Pattaya shopping malls. Visitors   0     40 "   ,  "    6  # LT1A4ET can try a variety of          4PVUI  4  0 0 = watersports such as 6     5 ,  1BUUBZB 1 )  "  "  5 5 1"  /  " 5 A perfect tropical paradise parasailing, kayaking,  :" 5" .     " -  5 : 5 -  " " * , "  *  )    0

3  at one time, Hat Pattaya is and scuba diving, 1 

"    

:  1 / 

" ) 

 5 #JH#VEEIB

0  " 5 barely recognizable today. besides other activ- / 

* 

" 

"  

1  

 )    " 5 ":  

5  This 2-mile (3-km) long ities such as golf 5  " " , : 1 3 5

* " " * 0 1

4 )

7

beach is usually packed with and tennis. 1

# .

"  4 * 5 5

sunbathers, especially on the 5 6  3"

&1 1 ) 5) 1BUUBZB1BSL / 5 ) & & 1 )

Sanctuary of Truth 0 1  weekends. Having earned a  #FBDI3FTPSU 1 ,

 / 3 1 "

3 6

" 4

" *5  4 seedy reputation and the nick- ) 8FTKT4K%5FFD 4  *   5 5 

)BU   

    206/2 Moo 5, Naklua Soi 12,    

name “Patpong by the Sea”, %POHUBO 

  + it is more frequented by Pattaya-Naklua Rd. Tel 0-3836- 0 6OEFSXBUFS . ) 5 8PSME *& youngsters, who spend time 7229. # 8am–6pm daily. & 8 B / U #  & + " in go-go clubs, bars, and 0 = www.sanctuaryoftruth.com P $ N ) U 5#00/,"/+"/"   massage parlors, than This magnificent J 8" F / /   /0 "5#6     O "  8 vacationing families. teakwood temple 5 ) Among Hat Pattaya’s stands 345-ft (105-m) most prominent fea- high on the shoreline tures, the ever popular between Hat Pattaya transvestite shows, and Ao Naklua. have venues mainly Every square inch at the northern end of its architecture is of the beach. carved with intricate 0 km 2 The Beach Road, figures reminiscent of 0 miles which runs along the Cambodian, Hindu, 2 length of Hat Pattaya, Buddhist, Chinese, overflows with food Carved figure, and Thai religion joints, bars, and Sanctuary of Truth and mythology. Key to Symbols see back flap

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 PATTAYA 105

Many of the town’s local VISITORS’ CHECKLIST workers live by Ao Naklua, and their accomodations lend Road Map D1. 37 miles (60 km) the area an authentic rural S of Chonburi. * 150,000. £ atmosphere, although several @ c g n TAT, 609 Moo 10, hotels and condominiums Pratamnak Road, Pattaya (0- are beginning to crowd the 3842-7667). _ Pattaya Music beach. Fishing tackle is avail- Festival (Mar 20–22); Pattaya Fes- able on Soi Photisan for those tival (mid-Apr, during Songkran). who want to spend a day www.pattayacity.com on the pier. Fresh seafood can also be bought daily at the Naklua market, next to Million Years Stone Park and Lan Pho Park. Devoid of the Crocodile Farm raunchiness of Hat Pattaya, it Ni4ET6L^6G†T68 VGSBTFzD%FU!† is a better option for families, 22/1 Moo 1, Nongplalai, with little traffic on the sea, Miniature replica of Bangkok’s Banglamung. Tel 0-3824-9347–9. and less noise and pollution. famous Wat Arun at # 8am–6:30pm daily. & 0 = www.thaistonepark.org  Mini Siam Also known as Uttayan Hin /BLMVB .BSLFU D^6^KETD Laan Pee, the Million Years -BO1IP 1BSL 387 Moo 6, Sukhumvit Rd. Tel 0- Stone Park and Crocodile 3872-7333. # 7am–10pm daily. & Farm features an eclectic mix 0 = www.minisiam.com of curiosities. Among the

4 First opened in 1986 as a major attractions are petrified 6 , ) 6 . research project and contin- trees over a million years old, 7 .JMMJPO:FBST4UPOF1BSL *

5 

1 $ BOE$SPDPEJMF'BSN ually growing, this interesting bonsai, rocks shaped like

.7*5 " )

5 " 6 5 * " : theme park is divided into animals, gigantic catfish, and : "

"  1 ,) 0 Mini Siam and Mini Europe. hundreds of crocodiles. It also 3 / 8 .JOJ4JBN * 5 The park displays miniature boasts of having the largest 4 ) 0 * *   models of renowned monu- artificial waterfall in Thailand. 4 6   ments and structures such as 

  Bangkok’s Grand Palace, the  Pattaya Elephant Village /*.*5 "   ) "1  Sydney Opera House, Paris’s LDj€7†T6'†T$A4ET  3  1BUUBZB3BJMXBZ 1   /     4UBUJPO #  0 / Eiffel Tower, the Colosseum, 48/120 Moo 7, Tambon Nong Prue. ) -6  0 $  1  / 3:  5  ( 6/ 1 0 Tel 0-3824-9818. 9am–5pm 0  and Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. #

. 1 $ 1 *". 3 " 6

*4 1 ) 3 & daily. www.elephant- 40 " / Each of these models has & 8 0 = * . * 5 been built on a scale of 1:25 village-pattaya.com / 0 & /  1 ) - " 1  8 with the Democracy Locally known as Mooban ) " / Monument in Bangkok being Chang, Pattaya Elephant

8 the first edifice to be repli- Village is more of a theme "5 #6/: "4" . ."1:"*-*" cated. Along with the other park than a zoo. Visitors get 1

) " activities, including weddings, a chance to go on elephant /

   that take place in Mini Siam, rides, as well as see them 1BUUBZB / " &MFQIBOU there are daily traditional Thai paint, play sports, and bathe. .   1)"/   7JMMBHF #6/4 ". / dance shows. Quite popular The admission fee includes " 5   with visitors to Pattaya, this lunch and rafting on the river, 0. -0 - 40*,)"05" ,   theme park also has several along with an hour-long

(

/

1BUUBZB5BJ 6 souvenirs shops nearby. elephant show.

)

3BJMXBZ4UBUJPO 5

46,)6. 7* 51 "55 ":" 

PATTAYA TOWN CENTER Ao Naklua 3 Hat Jomtien 7 Hat Pattaya 1 Million Years Stone Park and Crocodile Farm 5 Mini Siam 4 Pattaya Elephant Village 6 Pattaya Park Beach Resort 8 Ripley’s Believe It or Not q Sanctuary of Truth 2 South Pattaya 0 Underwater World 9 Curiously shaped stones at the Million Years Stone Park 106 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

in swimming pools, a fitness center, sauna, jogging track or cable-pulled water ski. A center within the resort has scuba diving classes for beginners. Those less interest- ed in strenuous physical activities can head for the snooker club. Pattaya Tower, the highest point not only of the resort but in the whole of Pattaya, offers splendid views – across Pattaya to the north and Ao Jomtien to the south – from the Apex Observation Point on the 55th floor. Visitors can Keen anglers taking a speedboat to catch game fish, Hat Jomtien also use the tower for bungee jumping or taking a ride in L Hat Jomtien preferred spot for those who the sky shuttle or speed shut- LT1%NDU4 E6 want to keep away from the tle. It has three different 1 mile (2 km) S of Hat Pattaya. crowds, noise, and excitement revolving restaurants on the Thailand’s premier spot for at the northern end. 52nd, 53rd, and 54th floors. windsurfing and kiteboarding, Hat Jomtien is vibrant at Pattaya Park Funny Land, this 9-mile (14-km) long night and a number of beer also designed to entertain beach is generally abuzz with and go-go bars attract crowds children, boasts a fantastic visitors. At its northern end in large numbers. A host of range of roller coaster rides, lies Hat Dongtan, dominated international restaurants, sea- monorail, a musical carousel, by high-rise apartments and food shacks, Irish pubs, and and a bumper car ride. popular with gay and lesbian German beer bars also vie for travelers. An ideal place for visitors’ attention.  Underwater World watersport enthusiasts, water- N6U1NFzHNU2NFzUH^G1z skiing and paragliding are  Pattaya Park Beach Resort 22/22 Moo 11, Sukhumvit Road, among the leading activities A4ET8TFg"7 'F KNF4z Banglamung. Tel 0-3875-6879. on the beach. 345, Hat Jomtien. Tel 0-3825-1201– # 9am–6pm daily. & 0 = Scuba diving and snorkeling 8. & 0 = www.pattayapark. www.underwaterworldpattaya.com trips set out from the shore, com Pattaya Park Funny Land. An excellent showcase for the as do jet skis and kayaks. # 11am–10pm daily. rich and varied marine life in Speedboats are available for Located at the northern end the region with over 200 game-fishing trips too. Other of Hat Jomtien, Pattaya Park species of marine animals, activities include target shoot- Beach Resort is the perfect Underwater World is an ing, horseback riding, tennis, destination for children. While impressive aquarium. Adults and golf. Hat Jomtien also has it has a private shopping and children alike will love several banana boats that can arcade and various dining this place. Visitors begin the be hired to take children to facilities, its main appeal is tour from the beach on the and from the shore. the host of varied indoor edge of the sea and are grad- The southern end of the activities. Kids delight in the ually taken underground beach, however, is devoid of whirlpools and waterslides, passing a variety of corals and a lot of this activity and is a while adults busy themselves other marine life on the way.

Visitors admiring the marine life visible from the large fiberglass tunnels, Underwater World

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 PATTAYA 107

Neon signs drawing crowds to seafood restaurants and go-go bars, Walking Street, South Pattaya

Farther below is a 328-ft part of Pattaya like the  Ripley’s Believe It or Not (100-m) long tunnel made of world’s largest bachelor party. A`A`5Ck0.sF^8GpKz fiberglass through which vari- Soi 3 is also known as Boyz- 3rd floor, Royal Garden Plaza, 218 ous kinds of colorful fish, sea town and is the center of the Moo 10, Beach Rd. Tel 0-3871- horses, turtles, sharks, corals, Pattaya gay scene with several 0294. # 11am–11pm daily. & rays, and crustaceans can be nightclubs and beer bars. ^ in Cinema and Haunted House. viewed. Visitors can also go A half mile (1 km) stretch of = www.ripleysthailand.com scuba diving in the coral reef road to the south of Pattaya One of Pattaya’s most popular tank or with the rays and Beach Road is known as attractions, Ripley’s Believe It sharks, for an additional fee. Walking Street. Vehicles are or Not features 10 theme prohibited from entering this galleries and over 300 extra- stretch from 7pm onward. ordinary exhibits. These Thronged by sex workers, it include a real shrunken head, has open-air bars, fast food a mask made from human joints, private massage parlors, skin, and an astonishing go-go bars, nightclubs, and model of the Titanic made cabaret shows along the street. from 1 million matchsticks. For those looking for a The exterior of the building more spiritual experience, to appears to be the site of a the south, on Buddha Hill, plane crash, with a giant lies Pattaya Fitness Park with plane nose-diving into its a large golden statue of the roof. Apart from the weird Buddha, called the Big and wacky collection of trivia Buddha. Visitors come to the in the museum, there is a Gold painted Big Buddha, 300 ft park to admire this magnifi- haunted house, a 4-D simula- (91 m) above Pattaya’s coastline cent image as well as several tor cinema, an infinity maze, other smaller images of the and various other activities South Pattaya Buddha dotting the park. for children. A4ETX2† www.pattaya-bars.net The area between Pattaya Beach Road and South Pattaya Road is crowded with hun- dreds of bars, nightclubs, and massage parlors. It is located about half a mile (1 km) from Hat Pattaya, in the sois (lanes) south of Soi 13 – between Soi 13/1 and Soi 13/5 – an area better known as Pattayaland. This zone is all about the sex trade. Hundreds of men, women, and or trans- vestites can be found crowding the bars and nightclubs, mak- ing the atmosphere in this Building exterior with “crashed” fighter plane, Ripley’s Believe It or Not 108 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Around Pattaya garden with a variety of orchids. A great place for an There is a lot to see and do around Pattaya, educational trip, there are especially on the coastal road south toward also several options for enter- Sattahip and among the numerous offshore tainment such as Thai boxing islands. Getting around independently is bouts, an elephant show, and very easy as jeeps, motorcycles, and bicycles a Thai cultural show featuring are readily available for hire. Most activities traditional dance and music. Visitors can also make use of are aimed squarely at vacationers on pack- the swimming pool and pic- age tours and families, with novelties and nic area. Pickups, directly Statue at attractions – such as elephant rides and Rayong from visitors’ hotels in hill-tribe villages – imported from across Pattaya, are available. Thailand. There are also plenty of sporting opportuni- ties ranging from watersports to golfing. Sattahip K2L 7 #BOH-BNVOH 21 miles (33 km) S of Pattaya. /BLMVB Once a Thai naval base which 1BUUBZB housed US servicemen during ,P .BF/BN,IV the Vietnam War, Sattahip #BMJ)BJ1JFS -BSO  /POH#VB today is best known for a

H small sea turtle conservation )BU+PNUJFO $IBL/HBFP  O

P

Z center located here. Visitors 

B "P#BOH4BSF /POH/PPDI  3 #BO,IBJ usually pass through Sattahip 7JMMBHF en route to Ko Samet, Rayong, #BOH4BSF #BO$IBOH

 or Ko Chang from Pattaya. A  +HAO#HAMAO  +HAO7ONG stopover at the sprawling ,P,ISBN 3BZPOH .ATIONAL0ARK :BJ 4BUUBIJQ MILESKM floating market on Highway 3 is worthwhile. With around ,P4BLFU #BO1IF 80 boats selling various kinds 4BNBFTBO of goods, it is a great place to pick up souvenirs. ,P4BNBFTBO KEY Major road Rayong FSEN$ Minor road 0 km 10 108 miles (174 km) SE of Pattaya. Popular for weekend trips 0 miles 10 Key to Symbols see back flap from Bangkok, Rayong is well- known for its cool breezes Ko Larn  Nong Nooch Village and great seafood. The U TSG†T6 KH66$6i' beaches along the coast – Ban 5 miles (8 km) W of Pattaya. 0 = 9 miles (15 km) S of Pattaya. Phe, Suan Son, and Suan Wang g from Bali Hai Pier, Pattaya. Tel 0-3870-9358-61. # 8am–6pm Kaew – have plenty of hotels www.kohlarn.com daily. & = www.nongnooch- overlooking the sea. There A tiny island about 2 miles tropicalgarden.com are good camping and diving (3 km) long and 1 mile (2 km) Essentially a theme park, facilities at Ko Talu, located wide, Ko Larn is ringed by six Nong Nooch Village (pro- across from Suan Wang Kaew. picturesque little coves and nounced “Nong Noot” in Located 29 miles (47 km) east fantastic offshore coral reefs. Thai), offers examples of Thai of Rayong, Khao Chamao- For its size, the island offers agriculture, Thai-style houses, Khao Wong National Park is a an amazing variety of activities; a small zoo, a butterfly farm, scenic spot with waterfalls, from tours in a semi-sub- and a beautiful botanical caves, cliffs, and ponds. merged glass-bottomed boat from which passengers can view coral and fish, to jet-ski- ing, parasailing, banana boat rides, scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and target shooting. Visitors can get around Ko Larn on pickup truck taxis, motorcycle taxis, or rented motorcycles. Each beach has guesthouses, restaurants, shops, and tourist facilities. If traveling in a small group, visitors can also hire a speed- boat for a few hundred baht from Pattaya. French-style garden with beautiful landscaping at Nong Nooch Village

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 EASTERN SEABOARD 109

Elephants in Thailand The largest land animal currently make the legendary power of the living in Asia, the elephant was elephant redundant, and a ban on first mentioned centuries ago in most commercial logging in 1989 Hindu and Buddhist texts. They led to a sharp decline in the have long played a significant spir- number of captive elephants. itual role in Thailand, enjoying a Today, their numbers in the wild Ceramic higher status than any other ani- elephant figure are estimated to be just 40,000 mal. Unfortunately, the elephant to 50,000. It is increasingly com- has become increasingly threatened by mon to see elephants being led around human encroachment on its habitat, resorts and big cities by their mahouts and to a lesser extent, by poaching. (elephant keepers). A surer way to see The introduction of bulldozers and them is at elephant camps and shows other heavy equipment has tended to in places such as Pattaya.

Popular as a means of ELEPHANTS IN HISTORY transport, elephants were Elephants were used in the used to carry both heavy construction of wats, clearing loads such as of forests, and logging. teak logs as well as Throughout Thai history, they people, with the mahout were also a symbol of sitting astride the prestige for Thai kings – the elephant’s neck. more elephants a king had, the more powerful he was.

White elephants, in fact albinos, have traditionally been attributed semi-divine status and are considered to be the property of the king. From 1855–1916, the Thai national flag Elephants were used in war with Thai and depicted a white elephant Burmese rulers, in particular, choosing to on a red background. enter the battlefield on elephant back.

ELEPHANTS TODAY Increasingly endangered in Thailand today, elephants are more likely to be seen in sanctuaries, camps, and shows. No longer used for logging, they have little employment outside the tourism industry.

Wild elephants, today, are under the protection of only a few national parks.

Elephant rides are especially popular with children. Visitors also use them Elephant shows are hugely popular for trekking. These Elephant motifs are and are staged at several destina- rides are quite often engraved by tions, most notably at Nong Nooch common in Thai silversmiths on Village in Pattaya. southern Thailand. decorative objects. 110 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Samet 8 U TSUKDr1 &BTUFSO4FBCPBSE Located off the Rayong Coast, Ko Samet is blessed with #BO1IF clear blue waters and crystalline sands and is popular ,P4BNFU with foreign visitors and Thais alike. The island derives its name from the evergreen, flower-bearing Cajeput trees – (VMGPG 5IBJMBOE Samet is the Thai word for Cajeput – found throughout the island. Despite attaining national park status in 1981, Ko Samet has faced quite a bit of development. Its 5-mile LOCATOR MAP (8-km) long eastern shore is a string of beautiful, white sand beaches populated with restaurants and bars. The Area illustrated western side of the island is less crowded, while the "AN0HE narrow interior is wild, undeveloped, and riddled with MILESKM trails, making it ideal for exploring the flora and fauna.

- Ferries from Ban Phe on the mainland can also bring visitors directly to island’s west coast.

. Ao Phrao Located away from the bustle of the east coast, Ao Phrao is one of the quietest bays on Ko Samet and appeals to visitors who wish to soak in the natural beauty and enjoy the sun, sand, and sea.

Ao Wong Deuan Home to the second longest beach on the island, Ao Wong Deuan is enduringly popular with both Thais and foreigners. It offers a wide range of "P5IJBO facilities including exotic seafood restaurants, bars, and a lively nightlife.

Ao Wai This bay shelters a quiet and pretty beach located south of all the action at Hat Sai Kaew. Shaded by coconut palms, Ao Wai is dominated by the Samet Ville Resort, offering dining, entertainment, and Thai massages.

"P,VJ - "P,VJ/B/PL /B/BJ - STAR SIGHTS -BFN,IVU . Ao Phrao "P,BSBOH . Hat Sai Kaew "P5PFJ

. Ao Phai ,P$IBO

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 KO SAMET 111

Na Dan VISITORS’ CHECKLIST The small fishing town of Na Dan is Road Map D2. 52 miles (84 km) the island’s main SE of Pattaya. * 1,500. g ferry port. As its from Ban Phe to Na Dan, Ao largest settlement, Wong Deuan, and Ao Phrao. TAT, Rayong (0-3865-5420). the town also n functions as the de facto capital.

"AN0HE MILESKM

,04".&5

. Hat Sai Kaew .FSNBJE4UBUVF A gorgeous stretch of white sand, Hat Sai "P)JO,IPL Kaew is the longest and most developed beach on the island, offering watersports such as water-skiing, windsurfing, and parasailing. "AN0HE "P1IVUTB MILESKM "P/VBO

"P$IP . Ao Phai A small and lovely bay, Ao Phai’s beach is rather busy with many restaurants and cafés. Popular with backpackers and sunbathers, the beach serves as a starting point for exploring trails across the island.

THE POETRY OF SUNTHORN PHU 0 meters 750 Sunthorn Phu (1786–1855) is Thailand’s most respected poet. His long, lyrical verses made him a favorite of the 0 yards 750 Thai kings. The epic Phra Aphaimani, Sunthorn Phu’s first poem, was inspired by beautiful Ko Samet which he adopted as his home. The poem tells the story of a prince, Aphaimani, who is ban- KEY ished to an underwater kingdom ruled by a giantess. Helped by a mermaid, Phra Beach Aphaimani escapes and then defeats the Watersports giantess by playing his magic flute which puts her to sleep. The prince is Viewpoint subsequently betrothed to a beauti- Ferry service ful princess. Minor road Statue on Ko Samet Trail depicting characters from Phra Aphaimani Ferry route 112 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Ko Samet A low-lying sliver of land, Ko Samet is easily accessible on a weekend trip from Bangkok. Its location has led to steady development over the years and despite being a protected area, the island risks Beach vendor, becoming overcrowded during peak sea- Hat Sai Kaew son. Also known as Ko Kaew Phitsadan, or Magic Crystal Island, this place was immortalized in Sunthorn Phu’s romantic epic Phra Aphaimani. Ko Samet offers visitors an idyllic tropical setting along with a lively nightlife as well as secluded beaches. Prices at restaurants and hotels, however, increase on busy weekends. Foreign visitors are required to pay an admission fee at the ferry port of Na Dan before venturing farther into the island. Sailing, kayaking, and other watersports at Hat Sai Kaew

basic accommodations, but However, this is the extent of very few travelers actually stay facilities on this rather peace- here. Close to the pier is a ful beach. Visitors can hire shrine dedicated to Pu Dam, taxis at Na Dan or take a boat a venerated holy man – also from the mainland. known as Grandfather Black – who lived on this idyllic island. L Hat Sai Kaew Communal taxis leave from LT14FTEV †H Na Dan’s pier to Ko Samet’s 0 = many beaches. One of the most popular beaches in Thailand which is L Ao Phrao especially busy with weekend N€THAF†TH visitors from Bangkok, Hat Sai Shrine with offerings dedicated to 1 mile (2 km) SW of Na Dan. Kaew is a beautiful crescent Sage Pu Dam, Na Dan The narrow white beach at of crisp, white sand located Ao Phrao, or Paradise Bay, is just half a mile (1 km) south- 4 Na Dan interspersed with trees and a east of Na Dan. L6ˆT1nT6 lush mountainous background. The 2-mile (3-km) stretch 4 miles (6 km) S of Ban Phe. g = The rugged coastline is not is lined with bungalows, A small but fairly busy pier in very accessible, but there are guesthouses, bars, restaurants, the northeastern part of the several trekking trails and and shops. Although the sea island, Na Dan is the entry spectacular sunset views. still looks pristine, the beach point into Ko Samet and is This is the only developed has lost some of its charm used by commercial as well beach on the rocky west due to overcrowding. The as privately owned speed- coast of Ko Samet. Apart from large number of beach activ- boats and ferries. a few guesthouses, Ao Phrao ities often make it difficult to Na Dan is a nondescript also has two luxury resorts find a quiet spot. fishing settlement with a clin- with swimming pools and Hat Sai Kaew is a revelers’ ic, a few Internet cafés, two spas. There is a PADI center beach with many nightclubs ATMs, and a market. It offers for those interested in diving. and bars that stay open till

Quiet beach at Ao Phrao backed by a thickly forested hillside

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 KO SAMET 113

dawn. Visitors can sign up for PADI authorised diving courses as well as induge in a plethora of watersports such as jet-skiing, banana boat rides, water-skiing, snorkeling, and scuba trips.

L Ao Hin Khok N€THL^6 0 A short distance from Hat Sai Kaew and separated by a rocky hill, the beach at Ao Hin Khok is dominated by the statue of a prince and a mermaid – the central charac- ters in Phra Aphaimani Visitors enjoying beers at an open-air beach restaurant, Ao Hin Khok written by Sunthorn Phu. A backpackers’ haven, the stars unhindered by other restaurants and bars and has a beach is lined with rows of lights. Just north of Ao Nuan lively nightlife. It also offers a small huts, basic restaurants, is the even quieter Ao Phutsa, wide range of watersports. and loud neon-lit bars. There also known as Ao Tubtim. The central part of the beach is also a gymnasium, and a Devoid of vendors and loud is often covered at high tide Thai boxing ring. Typical music, it is very peaceful. and visitors should be careful. evening entertainment Five minutes south of Ao includes fire juggling. Nuan is Ao Cho which draws L Ao Wai weekend crowds. It has basic N€THLHTE L Ao Phai and upscale accommodations 3 miles (5 km) SW of Hat Sai Kaew. N€THW9€ as well as a small pier ideal 0 = 0= for fishing and snorkeling. Heading farther south along Located just half a mile the east coast, the beaches (1 km) southwest of Hat Sai L Ao Wong Deuan become quieter and less com- Kaew, Ao Phai is a famous N€THH$U1N6 mercial. Ao Wai is a good party zone attracting party- 2 miles (3 km) SW of Hat Sai Kaew. option for mid-range accom- goers from all over the island. 0 modations, intimate dining, The beach hosts parties for A horseshoe-shaped cove in and a less raucous nightlife. just about any reason, but full the middle of the east coast, The soft sandy beach is par- moon celebrations tend to go Ao Wong Deuan is serviced tially shaded and has a couple over the top. It is a popular by ferries from the mainland. of shops with Internet access. rendezvous for young back- It is popular with holiday- The beach is also close to packers. Visitors can also makers on package tours and the southern coves of Ao Kui mingle with the local Thais Thai families, and is more Na Nai, and Ao Khut. Located during these celebrations. upscale than Hat Sai Kaew. offshore, the secluded mini Ao Phai has some small A designated lunch stop for island of Ko Chan has an shops and mid-range hotels, day-trippers, the beach at Ao interesting underwater land- but it is the nightly revelry Wong Deuan is lined with scape, ideal for snorkeling. that draws crowds.

L Ao Nuan N€TH6HG 2 miles (3 km) SW of Hat Sai Kaew. 0 Just south of the commercial beaches of Hat Sai Kaew and Ao Phai are a couple of small secluded coves for those who want to get away from the maddening crowds. Ao Nuan is a little rocky for swimming, but the stretch of sand is set amid unspoiled nature. The beach hut accom- modations are very basic and without electricity, but visitors can enjoy the excellent res- taurant or spend evenings under a beautiful canopy of Colorful kayaks for hire at Ao Phai 114 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Chanthaburi 9 %647iF Surrounded by acres of chili and rubber plantations, Chanthaburi, which means City of the Moon, is one of Thailand’s most charming towns and the capital of Mangosteen, a the . King Taksin, local fruit (r.1767–82), is the most revered monarch here with several shrines and monuments, commem- orating his famous victory over the Burmese in 1767. The town has a diverse ethnic population and strong historical and cultural links with both France and Vietnam due to its proximity to the former French Indochina. A gem-trading center since the 15th century, Chanthaburi is a prosperous city and a significant part Ornate golden shrine inside the of the present-day economy. Chanthaburi Cathedral

edifice. Also known as the Church of the Immaculate Conception, this structure is designed in the French Provincial style and was built by Christian missionaries in the 18th century. Since then it has been renovated a number of times, especially due to the influx of many Vietnamese Christians. Some of the stained-glass windows in the church date from before its 19th century restoration.

Vietnamese Quarter Vietnamese-style houses on stilts along Chanthaburi River 2GT1UH E16TD Thanon Rim Nam. Gem Market Madagascar. Visitors can go Extending along the west 2GT1AGNE to the market to see dealers bank of Chanthaburi River, Thanon Sri Chan-Trok Kachang. and prospectors doing busi- and a short distance from the Famous as a gem center for ness. The best gem stores are Gem Market, the Vietnamese more than five centuries, along Trok Kachang and Quarter is the most interesting Chanthaburi has drawn pros- Thanon Sri Chan. This market part of Chanthaburi. The pectors, dealers, traders, and is at its busiest on weekends. Vietnamese have migrated adventurers to its gem mar- to Thailand over a century, kets throughout history. The R Chanthaburi Cathedral initially to avoid persecution gem market, locally known Y7K3z%647iF ‰ and later as political refugees. as talat phloi, is located on Chanthanimit Rd. This quarter has a distinct the banks of the Chanthaburi Located just across the river, flavor, evident in its architec- River. Known for its natural east of the Gem Market, ture and cuisine. The houses wealth of sapphires and is Chanthaburi Cathedral, along Thanon Rim Nam are rubies, Chanthaburi continues Thailand’s largest Christian lovely old structures made out to be an important center of of bamboo or wood and this trade despite the exhaus- standing on stilts. They follow tion of its natural resources. the style of Vietnamese tube Today, most stones are architecture and are usually brought from areas along the narrow in width with the Cambodian frontier, yet the living quarters extending market continues to be along the building’s depth. famous for the workmanship The nearby market offers of its gem cutters. All kinds a whole array of delicious of precious and semi-precious Vietnamese snacks. Great stones are bought and sold stacks of Vietnamese spring for jewelry production. There roll wrappers and local are a range of rare gems and desserts offer appetizing beads from all over Southeast Gem dealer examining some alternatives to traditional Asia and even as far as precious stones at the Gem Market Thai fare. Today, there are

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 EASTERN SEABOARD 115

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST THAILAND’S VIETNAMESE The Vietnamese came to Thailand in a Road Map E2. 113 miles three-part exodus – refugees escaping (182 km) SE of Pattaya. French colonial rule in the 19th century, * 50,000. @ c n TAT Vietnamese Catholics fleeing the commu- Rayong (0-3865-5420). ( daily. nist regime in the 1950s, and migrants _ Fruit Festival (May/Jun). who left after the collapse of the Southern regime in 1975. The Thais mistrusted them because of an age- Vietnamese farmer King Taksin Shrine old rivalry and the Vietnamese were in rice fields JTGAFSU%†T2T K^6 constantly displaced because of wars. Tha Luang Road. However, over time, this community has been assimilated A nonagonal structure with into the country’s diverse ethnic fabric bringing with them a helmet-shaped roof, King distinct elements of their own culture. Taksin Shrine is a curious structure. Constructed in 1920, the shrine houses the few immigrants who speak make this an excellent place king’s statue that is revered the Vietnamese language, and for a picnic or a stroll. Visitors by the locals. Every year on the process of integration into can also sample some of the December 28, a ceremony is Thai society is well advanced. tropical fruits for which held commemorating Taksin’s Chanthaburi is famous. accession to the throne. Y King Taksin Park KH6AFSU%†T2T K^6 Thanon Leap Noen. A lush, open space located half a mile (1 km) west of the Gem Market, King Taksin Park is a popular spot with the citizens of Chanthaburi for walks or early morning exer- cises. The main park area is divided by two lakes filled with a variety of fish. The park is dominated by a great bronze statue of King Taksin in a heroic pose on the battle- field. This iconic image also figures on the 20 baht note. Tall trees providing shade Helmets and weaponry placed as offerings at King Taksin’s Shrine #&/$)"."3"$)65*5

CHANTHABURI ,JOH5BLTJO 4ISJOF 5)"/0/ TOWN CENTER ZBSET N

 / 640/ Chanthaburi 3

"/ 

$ *:

4"#" "5 2 4 3 I Cathedral 40* * 5 3 B   5&54"3*5*%&5 ."* 5)"/ 0 /  O Gem Market 1 -POHEJTUBODFBOE /  0  U 7JFUOBNFTF

/ I -PDBM#VT4UBUJPO 5  " B 2VBSUFS ) King Taksin )   C 5 " "8"/  V 1)3":"1)"&5 5)"/0/". 1)  5 / 4 4UBEJVN  )" S Park  0 5 

J ) / 

" / 0 3 3":0/(  Vietnamese /  J 3 NJMFT LN 0 W / .*  F

/ 3  S Quarter  43    "/(  /  $MPDLUPXFS 8  ) * $IBOUIBCVSJ  $ ".  5 ) "/0/5& 54" # " 3 / 5 ,

& $BUIFESBM 0 / )"

5 4 "/  " 0&/ / )  # 5 ) "/( /   - " , "$ & 

3   " 0, / 5  5 3

1  )   "     /  (FN.BSLFU , 0 /   -&"1 / " 3

5BLTJO ) 5 & 5 4 " # 

/

0 4UBUVF 1

) " .  

 

" 5SJSBU

/   ( 6 5 #SJEHF 53*35)"/ ,JOH5BLTJO " 5)"/0

3"+ 1BSL (,)

 -0/ 0

 "5

 / , )      0 meters 500 )"-"&#

)"$ 5 0 yards 500 /0/ )" 5 Key to Symbols see back flap 116 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Khao Kitchakut National Park 0 Ni4ET6VLt$'T2^U!T"^') j+

Road Map E1. Park HQ off Hwy 3249, 15 miles (24 km) NE of Chanthaburi. c Chanthaburi, then songthaew. n Park HQ (0-3945- 2074). &

Covering an area of about 23 sq miles (60 sq km), Khao Kitchakut National Park is one of Thailand’s smallest national parks and encompasses Khao Kitchakut, a granite mountain, just over 3,300-ft (1,006-m) high. The park’s best-known site, the 13-tier Krathing Waterfall, is located near the park headquarters. From here, visitors can follow an easy trail to the mountain’s peak. More ambitious hikers and a large number of pilgrims make the arduous 4-hour climb to the summit of the Phliw Waterfall, sourced from an underground stream impressive Phrabat mountain, 10 miles (16 km) from the They are vital to the economy Nam Tok Phliw park headquarters. This of the region as important mountain is famous not only water reservoirs and provide National Park q for an impression of the protection to many endan- Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^6†2 AG^wH Buddha’s footprint etched in gered species. These include granite, but also for its strange sun bears, spot-bellied eagle Road Map E2. Park HQ off Hwy 3, collection of natural rock owls, spiny-breasted giant 9 miles (14 km) SE of Chanthaburi. formations shaped like an frogs, and binturongs. The c Chanthaburi, then songthaew. elephant, a large turtle, a upland forests of n Park HQ ( 0-3943-4528); pagoda, and a monk’s bowl. Dao provide a habitat for the Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760) Khao Kitchakut is near the tree-dwelling pileated gibbon. for bungalow bookings. & much larger, but less visited, www.dnp.go.th Khao Soi Dao Wildlife O Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary which covers 290 Sanctuary Immensely popular with Thais, sq miles (751 sq km). Both Park HQ off Hwy 317, 16 miles this 52-sq mile (135-sq km) protected areas enclose some (26 km) N of Chanthaburi. park contains some of Chanthaburi, then of the last surviving tracts of a c Thailand’s richest rain forest. songthaew. & once-great lowland forest. It is also a haven for wildlife, with over 156 species of birds and 32 species of mammals including the Asiatic black bear, tiger, leopard, barking deer, and macaque. The park’s other attractions are its pretty waterfalls – the most impres- sive being Phliw Waterfall. Nearby are two chedis – the Alongkon chedi and the 10-ft (3-m) high pyramid-shaped chedi, Phra Nang Reua Lom, built by Rama V (r.1868–1910) in honor of Queen Sunantha, who died by drowning in the Chao Phraya River at Bang Pa-in in 1876. A tough hike leads to the 66 ft (20 m) roaring Trok Nong Falls and the forest- One of the 13 tiers of the Krathing Waterfall, crossed by a bridge encircled Klang Waterfall.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 EASTERN SEABOARD 117

Trat w 2FT1

Road Map E2. 36 miles (58 km) SE of Chanthaburi. * 72,000. c g n TAT, Trat (0-3959-7259-60). ( daily. _ Rakham Fruit Fair (May–Jun). This provincial capital is a small but busy commercial town. Currently, most travelers pass through Trat en route to Ko Chang (see pp118–26). However, it is likely that the town will draw larger crowds as more and more travelers visit the archipelago. Trat has several attractions, including its markets, most of which are centered around Tat Mai and Sukhumvit roads. The busy market on Sukhumvit Road has a fine selection of food and drink stalls. The recently renovated Wat Bupharam, the oldest temple in Trat Also of interest are the gem-mining villages, such as Laem Ngop e forces at this point, losing Bo Rai, around Trat, where three vessels, but claiming a rubies are mined. Local guest- VLGD$N7 moral victory which is still houses can arrange trips for celebrated today. Traditional visitors. Located about 1 mile Road Map E2. 12 miles (19 km) merit-making ceremonies are (2 km) southwest of Trat, Wat SW of Trat. * 18,000. @ c g performed for the deceased, Bupharam, or Flower Temple, n TAT, Trat (0-3959-7259-60). and there is an exhibition by is set in pleasant grounds _ Ko Chang Naval Battle the . The with large, shady trees. Some Commemoration (Jan 17–21). town also has a monument of the original buildings and museum dedicated to the within the temple complex, A small, sleepy, fishing port, martyrs of the battle. including the wihan, the bell Laem Ngop serves as the ferry Laem Ngop has little to tower, and the kutis (monks’ point for nearby Ko Chang offer the visitor beyond a quarters), are quite old and and the islands that lie wooden pier where rows of date from the late Ayutthaya beyond. In January 1941, the boats and ferries are tied. period (see pp40–41). Thai Navy engaged French Although very much a one- horse town, it has a number of privately operated tourism THE CAMBODIAN CONNECTION information centers, several Thailand’s long, narrow, hotels for those who miss the eastern-most tip stretches far ferry to Ko Chang and decide down the coast of the Gulf to stay overnight, as well as of Thailand, all but severing some excellent restaurants. Cambodia’s Cardamom region from the sea. In times past, this has led to tensions between the two countries, but today, both Bangkok and Phnom Penh seem happy to cooperate in profiting from the region’s development as a tourist destination. The small but Visitors waiting to cross the border picturesque port of Khlong to Cambodia, Hat Lek Yai is the last settlement in Thailand before the riverine border crossing to Cambodia at Hat Lek. Thai visitors gen- erally cross to the somewhat notorious town of Koh Kong to indulge in gambling at local casinos. A vibrant trekking industry around the Cardamom Mountains is also beginning to develop in the region. Visitors traveling by ferry from Laem Ngop to Ko Chang 118 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Chang r U TS'ˆT$ &BTUFSO4FBCPBSE Named after the largest island in an archipelago of 52, Ko Chang is one of the best-known national marine parks -BFN in Thailand. Its appeal lies in its ruggedness – stunning (VMGPG /HPQ beaches, a thick, jungled interior teeming with a wide 5IBJMBOE variety of flora and fauna, and beautiful coral reefs. The ,P$IBOH prominent beaches on the island are scattered along its western and southern coasts, while the eastern coast is LOCATOR MAP more suited for trekking and bird-watching. Marine life Area illustrated enthusiasts will find the waters south and west of Ko Chang endowed with fascinating coral formations. The northern coast of Ko Chang is the most developed part of Ban Khlong Son is the island, with several upscale restaurants and a variety the main settlement on the island. of accommodation options.

,AEM.GOP MILESKM

/BN5PL /BOH:PN 5IB%BO,BP

Ban Kwan Hat Sai Khao Elephant Camp The largest and most developed beach on Ko Chang, Hat ,IMPOH1IMV Sai Khao is also the most crowded, with plenty of bars -BFN 8BUFSGBMM and restaurants, and the liveliest nightlife. $IBJDIFU #BO,IMPOH1ISBP

Hat Khlong Phrao A great spot for a family ,0$)"/( vacation, Hat Khlong Phrao is lined with restaurants that produce some of the freshest and most delicious seafood on the island. )BU5IB /BN Hat Kai Bae is an ideal spot for sea-kayaking, with kayaks "P#BJ-BO easily available for hire.

"P#BOH #BP

STAR SIGHTS . Bang Bao Fishing Village

. Ban Kwan Elephant Camp . Bang Bao Fishing Village A pretty village along the southern coast, Bang . Than Mayom Waterfall Bao is easily identified by its simple, wooden houses on stilts built near or over the water.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 KO CHANG 119

. Ban Kwan VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Elephant Camp One of the most popular Road Map E2. Park HQ near elephant camps on the Than Mayom, Ko Chang, island, Ban Kwan offers 31 miles (50 km) SW of Trat. exciting rides on g from Laem Ngop. n Park HQ (0-3955-5080). & for Ko elephant back into the Chang National Park. 0 = wild interiors of Ko www.dnp.go.th Chang, or Elephant Island, accompanied by an experienced mahout, or guide. 0 km 4

0 miles 4

,AEM.GOP MILESKM

%BO.BJ

. Than Mayom Waterfall The most popular waterfall on the island, Than Mayom was visited 5IBO.BZPN by Rama V, VI, and VII. Evidence of their visits can be seen on the 1BSL)2 rocks near the falls which bear the kings’ insignia.

Hat Wai Chek Among the quieter and more serene beaches on Ko Chang, Hat Wai Chek is popular with campers. The beach is inaccessible by road and can only be reached by trekking across the island’s #BO4BMBL forested interior. 1IFU

"P4BMBL Hat Sai Yao, a favorite with 1IFU backpackers, is an ideal KEY diving and snorkeling spot. Beach Dive site Area of natural beauty ,P-BPZB ,P/HBN ,P.BJ 4J:BJ Hiking Ferry service Visitor information +O+HAMMILESKM ,P,IMVN +O2ANGMILESKM +O-AKMILESKM Minor road +O+RADATMILESKM ,P8BJ +O+UTMILESKM Dirt track ,P1BJ%POH Ferry route

Fishing village of Salak Phet with huts on stilts, Ko Chang

122 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Ko Chang for visitors seeking mid-range accommodations. The beach The serenity and outstanding beauty of Ko is divided into two, the north- Chang, the second largest island in Thailand, ern and southern parts, each have combined to place it prominently on the with its own peaceful stretch visitors’ map. Easy accessibility from Bangkok, of sand. The southern end combined with the island’s scenic beauty, has the added advantage of which includes mangrove forests, cliffs, and being screened off from the A spirit clear waters, make this an ideal place for a main road by a thick cluster house of coconut trees. Visitors can varied holiday experience. While the best experience exciting elephant beaches on Ko Chang are on its west coast, the coastal rides through rubber planta- road, which was begun in the early 1990s, has helped tions, starting from nearby to increase accessibility to other remote beaches on the Ban Khlong Phrao. These are island as well. Increased development also means that operated by the Chang Ko Chang now has no shortage of upscale hotels, resorts, Chutiman Tours and Ban and spas catering to an ever-increasing influx of visitors. Kwan Elephant Camp, 1 mile (2 km) inland from Ban Khlong Son. Other activities L Hat Sai Khao include kayaking and hiking. LT14FTE!TH 7 miles (11 km) W of Tha Dan Kao. } Khlong Phlu Waterfall 0 = 6†2 "GN$AGj The longest, most popular 1 mile (2 km) NE of Hat Khlong beach on the island, Hat Sai Phrao. & Khao, or White Sands Beach, Ko Chang’s highest waterfall, is easily accessible from Tha the three-tiered Khlong Phlu, Dan Kao, one of the many locally known as Nam Tok piers where ferries heading to Khlong Phlu, cascades down Ko Chang arrive. 65 ft (20 m) into a small pond The narrow 1-mile (2-km) of clear water surrounded by stretch of beach is crowded smooth rocks. Located almost with hotels, resorts, and Visitors enjoying refreshments in the middle of the island, beach bars, all competing for outdoors at Hat Khlong Phrao the fall flows down to Hat a glimpse of the sea. The road Khlong Phrao on the west running parallel to the beach recommended here as the coast, forming an estuary. is lined with shops, travel current can get very strong Visitors usually follow the agents, seafood shacks, bars, and dangerous. 2-mile (3-km) walk upstream and a few small shopping by taking the road inland malls. While the available L Hat Khlong Phrao between Ko Chang Plaza in accommodations are inade- LT1"GN$AF†TH Laem Chaichet and Chang quate as well as overpriced, 3 miles (5 km) S of Hat Sai Khao. Chutiman Tours to reach this there are some less expensive & 0 beautiful site. places for the budget traveler A small fishing port with one The waterfall is very at the northern end of the of the most popular family popular with visitors and beach, which is also quieter. beaches on Ko Chang, Hat quite crowded at all times, Swimming in the waters is not Khlong Phrao is best suited except in the early morning.

The picturesque Khlong Phlu Waterfall, best viewed in the rainy season

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 KO CHANG 123

A great spot for picnics, visitors can jump off the rocks into the cool waters below, swim, and trek in the dense rain forest surrounding the waterfall. Sharp-eyed visitors may be lucky enough to spot a civet cat, macaque or mongoose – all part of the fauna at the national park. Foreign visitors have to pay an entry fee (which varies for children and adults) at the ranger station, located at the car park a short distance from the waterfall, as the cascade is part of the Ko Chang Marine National Park. Basic beach accommodations, Ao Bai Lan

ago as an ideal location for } Ao Bai Lan swimming and scuba diving. N€THX7GT6 Despite the name, visitors 8 miles (13 km) S of Hat Sai Khao. continue to flock here in Quieter and more private than droves. Several resorts with Lonely Beach, Ao Bai Lan is concrete, air-conditioned bun- the perfect destination for galows have opened shop in backpackers. Built around a recent times, but cheap wood- pier, where a few fishing en huts also dot the landscape. vessels moor and locals cast Hat Tha Nam is probably lines, Ao Bai Lan has no the best area for swimming beach, just rocks, clear on the island, with a shallow pristine water, and a chance seabed, although the northern to snorkel around the reef. end of the beach has a steep A few new resorts have shelf and swimmers need to sprung up in recent years, be careful. Scuba diving including the luxurious Dusit Kayaks available to residents to equipment is easily available Princess Resort (see p295), explore nearby islands, Hat Kai Bae for hire from a dive shop on which nestles among the the beach, as are kayaks and more traditional picturesque L Hat Kai Bae motorcycles at most of the huts set on stilts. LT1W €V7w bungalow accommodations. Vacationers partying late 7 miles (11 km) S of Hat Sai Khao. Youngsters frequent Hat into the night at the many Songthaew from Tha Dan Kao or Tha Nam playing frisbee, jug- lively bars on Ao Bai Lan can Hat Sai Khao. 0 = gling balls, and drinking beer. also head for a relaxing sauna A narrow beach overgrown The nights are often busy treatment at the popular with shrubs, Hat Kai Bae all with noisy parties. Herbal Sauna Bailan. but disappears at high tide. Despite its size, the beach has seen considerable devel- opment in recent years and Hat Kai Bae has a few upscale resorts with private swimming pools, a handful of modest restaurants and bars, as well as supermarkets. Visitors can hire kayaks to ex- plore the tiny islands just off the west coast. Motorcycles and boats are also available for hire at the dive shops.

L Hat Tha Nam LT14€T6†‰ 6 miles (10 km) S of Hat Sai Khao. Songthaew from Tha Dan Kao. 0 = Better known as Lonely Beach, Hat Tha Nam was dis- covered by backpackers years Sunbathing along the poolside, Sea View Resort and Spa, Hat Kai Bae 124 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Chek is almost completely off the tourist map. There are currently no road signs lead- ing to it. Those keen to visit the picturesque and isolated beach can take the Salak Phet-Bang Bao route, which passes first through a rubber plantation, then to the coco- nut plantation and the beach, a short distance away. There is little development on the beach, and there are no guesthouses, restaurants, or shops. However, it is gradually becoming more accessible because of the construction of a road between Bang Bao and Ban Salak Phet which completes the long, winding, loop around the island. Visitors are allowed to camp overnight on the beach, but must remember to carry their own supplies. Those keen to undertake some physical activity can go hiking along the narrow wooded trails or hire a motorcycle or 4WD Water gushing down tiers of the spectacular Than Mayom Waterfall jeep from Ban Bang Bao.

Bang Bao which is marked out between } Than Mayom Port 7T$U7wT Bang Bao and Ao Bai Lan, and Waterfall 12 miles (19 km) S of Hat Sai Khao. 3 miles (5 km) to the north, is 6†2 5TFDSED g 0 = excellent for hiking. A short 4 miles (6 km) S of Tha Dan Kao. & A unique experience awaits distance south from the village The east coast of Ko Chang is visitors to Bang Bao – it is a is the small, albeit pictur- lined with and has village built entirely on stilts, esque, beach called Hat Sai few facilities for visitors or overlooking the bay. The Noi. Some 330-feet (101-m) beaches and scant accommo- wooden houses as well as long, the beach has a small dations. The Than Mayom shops, guesthouses, and res- restaurant, a few fresh fruit Port has a pier where various taurants are connected by bars, and some scattered varieties of fruit are loaded narrow bridges, creating a chairs, with women offering for the mainland, but there is miniature colony over the sea. traditional Thai massages. little other activity. A 1-mile Several shacks have been (2-km) walk south of the port converted into seafood restau- L Hat Wai Chek leads to the Than Mayom rants, famed locally for their LT1WHU'"i Waterfall on a steep hill giant crabs and prawns. 3 miles (5 km) E of Bang Bao. toward the interior. This natu- Keen anglers can go fishing, 4 from Bang Bao. ral cascade is surrounded by perhaps directly from their One of Thailand’s last lush vegetation and offers balcony; snorkeling, diving, untouched slices of paradise, spectacular views over the and swimming are other the isolated cove of Hat Wai coastline. Camping around options. Dolphins and sea turtles often swim off the southern coast, and tracking them can prove to be a rewarding experience, as long as visitors hire the services of an experienced tour guide. Boats and other equipment are also easily available. Bang Bao usually witnesses a steady flow of camera-happy visitors, but the evenings are blissfully peaceful, especially after the crowds have dis- persed and the souvenir shops have closed. A hilly trail, Wooded hills and trails ideal for trekking, Hat Wai Chek

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 KO CHANG 125

Panoramic view of calm waters and outlying islands off Ko Chang the waterfall is usually lighthouse is recommended. taxis are more willing to permitted, but visitors need There are a couple of beautiful negotiate a pretty reasonable to bring their own supplies. waterfalls within 2–3 miles fare from either Salak Phet Successive kings of Thailand (3–5 km) of Salak Phet called or Salak Kok. have visited the falls as the Ke Rephet and Khlong Nung. Hat Sai Yao is the closest inscriptions on the rocks indi- Two Buddhist temples – Wat point for swimming, snor- cate. Foreign visitors have to Salak Phet, built during the keling, and fishing trips to a pay an entry fee, which cov- reign of Rama V (r.1868–1910), handful of tiny, yet pictur- ers all of the sites within the and another about 6 miles esque islands nearby, including marine national park. (10 km) from it – are also Ko Wai (see p126), Ko Mai Si worth a visit. Yai, Ko Mai Si Lek, and Ko Mai Daeng, some of which L Hat Sai Yao still remain uninhabited. Hat LT14FTEETH Sai Yao is not without its bit 14 miles (22 km) S of Tha Dan Kao. of intriguing history; close to Located on the southeastern the coastline is a memorial tip of Ko Chang, Hat Sai Yao, dedicated to Thai soldiers or Long Beach, had so far who lost their lives in a battle been one of the least devel- against the French in 1941. oped areas on the island. Visitors can trek to this site. Endowed with breathtaking Keen photographers might views, it is an ideal sanctuary want to climb the 1,500-ft for backpackers searching for (457-m) high mountain solitude. However, Hat Sai behind the Treehouse Lodge Yao is now changing slowly – to capture the panoramic Squid drying at the fishing village the winding bumpy road to views of the islands and of Ban Salak Phet the beach has improved, and coastline below.

Ban Salak Phet 7†T6KG UA'F 10 miles (16 km) S of Tha Dan Kao. 0 A traditional fishing village with houses on stilts, Ban Salak Phet has found a place for itself on the tourist map, especially after the construc- tion of the long, winding road around the island. Visitors can take diving or snorkeling tours from the bay to the wreckage of two Thai naval ships which were sunk by the French Navy during World War II. For a more lei- surely activity, a visit to the fish and shrimp farms and the Thatched accommodations at the beachfront, Hat Sai Yao 126 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Ko Chang’s Outlying Islands The stunning islands of Ko Kham, Ko Wai, Ko Mak, and Ko Kut, with their beautiful, deserted beaches, are perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Located south of Ko Chang, these islands are accessible by ferry or speedboats and offer some of the best snorkeling and diving experiences in the Gulf of Thailand. Underwater explorers can see a wealth of marine life among the reefs as well as the wrecks of two naval warships – the Songkhla and the Chonburi – which sank in these waters. These have since become notable dive sites. Traditional fishing village backed by This L-shaped island is hilly mangroves at Ko Kut and connected in the middle by shallow lagoons, which is on Ao Suan Yai and Ao are safe even for young Kao. Scuba diving is a pop- children. The locals are very ular activity on Ko Mak and friendly and there are a the surrounding cluster of tiny couple of resorts offering islands – Ko Rayang, Ko Kra, simple accommodations. Ko Rang, and Ko Kradat. These can be accessed on foot via a jungle path along Ko Kut the northern coast. Ko Wai U TS j1 does not have many facilities, 21 miles (34 km) S of Ko Chang. but its pristine beauty makes g from Bang Bao. 0 = it ideal for a family holiday. The second largest island of the Ko Chang archipelago, Ko Diver exploring the rich and Ko Mak Kut is also the farthest from unspoiled coral reefs off Ko Chang U TSLDT the mainland. The original 14 miles (22 km) S of Ko Chang. inhabitants of this island were Ko Kham g from Bang Bao or Laem Ngop. both Cambodian and Thais U TS!TD 0 = who fled to this remote spot 13 miles (21 km) SE of Ko Chang. Covered with coconut and during the French occupation g from Bang Bao. 0 rubber plantations, Ko Mak of Trat (see p117) in 1904. Isolated Ko Kham, also is named after the areca nut – Agriculture is the mainstay known as Emerald Island, is Mak is the Thai word for of the locals – coconut and so small that visitors can swim areca nut – found all over the rubber are the most important or snorkel around it in just 40 island. Most of Ko Mak is crops. Most beaches are on minutes. This is one of the privately owned by the the west coast and Khlong few islands where black vol- powerful Prompakdii family – Chao and Hat Tapao are the canic rocks are found on the civil servants who later turned most popular spots. The beaches. The west coast has a landowners. Almost deserted pristine, untouched interior of profusion of mangroves and till a decade ago, Ko Mak is this island is home to the wild orchids, while the east now home to about 30 beautiful Khlong Chao coast has two small beaches. resorts. There is electricity, Waterfall. Visitors can also Since this island lacks its Internet, boats for hire, and a stop by the fishing village of own resources, it imports good choice of restaurants Ao Salad and sample the fresh water and runs its own and shops. Most of the action seafood on offer. generators. There is only one resort on the island offering basic accommodations.

Ko Wai U TSLHTE 6 miles (10 km) SE of Ko Chang. g from Bang Bao or Laem Ngop. 0 = Bounded by white sands, palm trees, and coral reefs, Ko Wai provides the perfect tropical setting with gorgeous views of the neighboring islands. The surrounding waters are so clear that the ocean floor can be viewed even without snorkeling gear. Thick coconut plantations along the coast of Ko Mak

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 EASTERN SEABOARD 127

Beach Life The sunny, tropical beaches of backpacker haunts and luxurious, the Eastern Seaboard are a romantic getaways; deserted hedonistic escape from the beaches or bustling commercial daily grind. Popular with both spots with a vibrant nightlife. foreign visitors and locals due The clear aquamarine waters to their proximity to Bangkok, provide good diving and snor- Decorated rubber they are both a hub of activity swimming tubes keling oppurtunities offering a and a place to lie back and wealth of marine life. Other relax, with all the concomitant pleas- attractions such as seafood, beach par- ures of the sun, sand, and watersports. ties, traditional massages, and souvenir Visitors can choose between basic shops complete the perfect holiday.

Sunbathing is a favorite occupation with travelers and most of the popular beaches have deck chairs and umbrellas to lounge under. However, it is easy to get serious sunburn and a good sunscreen is a must. Beach games such as soccer, netball, and volleyball are extremely popular. Nets strung up on the beach with Thai foot massages youngsters playing impromptu use traditional matches are a common sight. techniques to relieve tension. Thai beach vendors Many beaches have tend to be friendly expert masseurs rather than pushy or who charge very impolite and reasonable rates. sell everything from fresh seafood snacks to trinkets.

Beach shacks are simple thatched structures serving iced drinks and deli- cious local snacks. The beach nightlife includes cabarets, full They provide shade moon parties, fire shows, and live bands. from the sun as well Apart from this, groups of revelers are as the perfect vantage often seen singing around a bonfire. point to enjoy the sea.

Watersports of all kinds are available at Pattaya and other developed beaches. These range from kayaking – available on even the smaller beaches – to more extreme sports such as parasailing, windsurfing, and kiteboarding. 128 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Poolside bungalows at a beach resort, Hat Thap Thim

Hat Sai Ngam t This is an ideal place to try attractive to those who are out and dried looking for peace and LT14FTE$TD fish which are famous local tranquility. The area is best products. This beach is visited explored on motorcycles or Road Map E2. 24 miles (39 km) SE by relatively few people, Thai longtail boats. It is possible of Trat. @ 0 = or foreign travelers, and it is to reach Hat Sai Kaew by still possible to unwind by the minibus from Trat. On the mainland east of Ko sea without being assailed by Chang, is a sliver of land commercial development. To u along the shore that connects get to the beach visitors need Hat Thap Thim the provincial town of Trat to cross a 144-ft (44-m) long LT1474^D (see p117) with the border wooden bridge. crossing to Cambodia at Ban Road Map E2. 30 miles (48 km) SE Hat Lek. This stretch is home of Trat. @ 0 = y to a string of small fishing Hat Sai Kaew villages, as well as some of LT14FTEV H Located near the village of the loveliest and as yet Ban Mai Rut, Hat Thap Thim, undeveloped beaches in Road Map E2. 25 miles (40 km) SE or Ruby Beach, is close to the Thailand. Hat Sai Ngam, or of Trat. @ 0 = narrowest strip of Thai Beautiful Sands Beach, is a territory dividing the small and lovely stretch of A quiet beach, Hat Sai Kaew, Cambodian mountains from pure white sand running or Crystal Sands Beach, is yet the Gulf of Thailand. This parallel to a grove of pine to be discovered by travelers. 1,500-ft (450-m) narrow sliver trees. Facilities are fairly Crisp white sands shaded by of sand is a pretty spot ideal simple – although it should a narrow fringe of casuarinas for picnics or a day trip en always be possible to get and coconut palms along route to Cambodia. something to eat and drink. the shore makes this beach Basic accommodations are available here and the beach with its seafood shacks is often filled with Thai locals from Trat who come to Hat Thap Thim on weekends. The ambience here is laid-back and decidedly different from the international vibe of nearby Ko Chang.

Hat Samran i LT1KFT*

Road Map E2. 36 miles (58 km) SE of Trat. @ 0 =

Located between Trat and the Thai-Cambodian frontier at Hat Lek, Hat Samran, better known as Hat Mai Rut, is an almost deserted beach. Despite limited facilities, its Colorful boats anchored at the fishing village, Hat Samran relative quiet and stunning

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp294–8 and pp322–4 EASTERN SEABOARD 129

beauty adds to its charm and appeal. While some of the regular watersports such as windsurfing or diving might not be available due to lack of infrastructure, this beach is an excellent spot for swim- ming. Visitors can also enjoy the authentic experience of a fishing village at Ban Mai Rut with plenty of seafood and an insight into the lives of the local fishermen.

Hat Ban Chuen o LT17T6'n6

Road Map E2. 39 miles (63 km) SE of Trat. @ 0 =

Located between Ban Mai Rut and , Hat Ban Chuen is the longest beach in Trat. This stretch of powdery sand crosses the foundation structure of a non-functional Thatched beachside seafood shacks at Hat Ban Chuen Cambodian refugee camp. Simple bungalow accommo- an outpost from where changed now, but there is still dations offer lodging to travelers can take a boat out a palpable “Wild East” feel to overnight visitors and a small of the country to Cambodia. the place, with touts seeking restaurant sells fresh seafood Visas and other immigration to speed up the visa appli- dishes. This beach attracts a formalities can be completed cation process to get travelers lively local crowd from Trat. at Khlong Yai – the last town to the Cambodian side of the before the border crossing. border. On the other side is a However, this region has similar, if slightly more p Ban Hat Lek had a troubled past due to debauched, remote frontier 7†T6LT1UG„ incessant political instability post. Although officials are and geographical proximity to beginning to crack down, it Road Map E2. 57 miles (92 km) SE Cambodia. During the time of is better to be careful here, of Trat. * 4,500. @ g 4 Pol Pot and the Khmer especially after dark. ( daily. Rouge, and the subsequent The border is currently disputes over control of the open from 7am–8pm daily. The tiny settlement of Ban country from 1975 to 1986, Travelers crossing over to Hat Lek marks the actual this area was referred to as Cambodia can stay overnight border crossing between “bandit country” and was at Koh Kong, the first town Thailand and Cambodia. It is quite unsafe. Things have on the other side.

Cambodian houses along the border at Ban Hat Lek

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 131

UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST

he alluring Upper Western Gulf Coast extends from Phetchaburi to Chumphon covering a distance of almost T292 miles (470 km). Close to Bangkok, notably around the old, historic town of Phetchaburi and the royal getaway Hua Hin, the beach resorts are well developed and extremely popular. Further south, however, there are fewer people, and miles of long, white, sandy beaches stretch gloriously into the distance.

Steeped in history and culture, Upper Western Gulf Coast’s Thailand’s Upper Western Gulf heavily forested interior and Coast is characterized by spectacular beaches, which historically relevant towns such are sheltered by mountains, as Phetchaburi, with its crumb- attract vacationers more than its ling architectural remnants of historic buildings and museums. The the Khmer, Mon, Ayutthaya, beautiful, casuarina-lined fronts of and Rattanakosin epochs. Cha-am and Hua Hin are enduringly The Tenasserim Mountains, popular, particularly with week- rising to 4,350 ft (1,326 m), form enders from Bangkok, as are a long spine down the peninsula, gorgeous and unspoiled strands dividing Thai territory from that of such as Hat Ao Noi and Ao neighboring Myanmar. This range Manao at . The absorbs much of the rain that falls many golf courses within easy reach during the southwest monsoon, of Cha-am and Hua Hin make this keeping the region relatively dry, area arguably the country’s premier even when there is heavy rain on the golf destination. Trekkers and bird- nearby Andaman Coast to the west. watchers will also be drawn to the However, this coastal region is still natural beauty of Khao Sam Roi Yot fertile, famed for its juicy, tropical and Kaeng Krachan national parks, fruits such as pineapples, coconuts, where migratory birds rest and feed sugarcane, “lady finger” bananas, in the salt marshes between the sugar palms, and mangosteens. The months of August and April.

Fishing boat sailing in calm waters off Bang Saphan Yai at sunset

Magnificent images of the Buddha inside Wat Mahathat Worawihan, Phetchaburi 132 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Upper Western Gulf Coast This long, narrow coastal strip, backed by a range of mountains along the Burmese border, stretches from the cultural center of Phetchaburi to the quiet fishing port of Chumphon and the beaches as far beyond as isolated Hat Arunothai. In the north lie one of Thailand’s oldest beach resorts, Hua Hin, and the more modern resort of Cha-am. This area is also home to several wildlife sanctuaries such as the green and hilly Kaeng Krachan National Park, as well as the characteristic limestone outcrops of the coastal Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. Chumphon, in the south, traditionally marks the point where central Thai culture gives way and Thailand’s Muslim presence Fleet of fishing boats near the gradually grows stronger. harbor, Hat Thung Wua Laen

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns, Cities, and Villages Historic Buildings and Hat Sai Ri h Bang Saphan a Religious Sites Hat Sam Phraya q Cha-am 2 Marukhathaiyawan Palace 4 Hat Thung Wua Laen s Chumphon g Wat Khao Tham Khan Hat Wa Kaw i Dan Singkhon u Kradai e Hin Lak Ngam f Hua Hin pp140–41 5 Beaches, Islands, and Bays Phetchaburi pp134–7 1 Ao Bang Nang Rom t Prachuap Khiri Khan w Ao Manao y Pranburi 6 Ao Thung Makham j National Parks Ko Ngam Yai and Ko Kaeng Krachan Ngam Noi d SEE ALSO National Park 3 Hat Ao Noi r • Where to Stay pp298–300 Hat Arunothai k Khao Sam Roi Yot National • Where to Eat pp324–6 Park pp144–5 8 Hat Ban Krut p Hat Laem Sala 0 Theme Parks Hat Naresuan 7 King Mongkut Memorial Park Hat Hat Sam Roi Yot 9 of Science & Technology o

GETTING AROUND Most of the attractions in the region are easily accessible from Highway 4, the main route between Bangkok and the south. The major towns are linked to each other and to the capital by regular bus and train services (Bangkok to Hua Hin is 3–4 hours by bus or train; Bangkok to Chumphon is 8–9 hours by bus or train). There are no scheduled domestic flights within the area and the nearest domestic airports are further south at Ko Samui and Surat Thani. Songthaews, motor- cycles, or trishaws can be usually hired for trips to local sights. How- ever, the easiest and also the most convenient way to explore the area is by a self-driven vehicle. Car rental facilities are available at Bangkok, Farmers harvesting rice in a field, Prachuap Khiri Khan Cha-am, and Hua Hin.

For additional map symbols see back flap UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 133

#BOHLPL #BO-BFN

-  " A /POH:B5IPO A E N .

G A

 , 1)&5$)"#63* + M /

L O  "

I " &

5 ,VO,IMPOH )BU$IBP4BNSBO

/ * 0 +AENG+RACHAN ( ,IMPOH1VL5JBO

/

 2ESERVOIR

,

" M 3 I - A R #BOH,FU

"  . U 1 E B $ T " A E ) - H 3 $)"". :BOH$IVN 0 " ,

/ ."36,)"5)"*:"8"/ 1"-"$&

1B-B6 0

R A )6")*/ N B U R 5IBQ5BJ I

0RANBURI 13"/#63* $AM )"5/"3&46"/ KEY 0RANBURI&OREST0ARK Expressway ,)"04".30*:05 /"5*0/"-1"3, )"54".30*:05 Major road 4HAM0HRAYA.AKHON #BO3BJ.BJ )"5-"&.4"-" Minor road )"54".1)3":" #BO,IBP%BFOH Railway line !O+HAN+RADAI International border 8"5,)"05)". ,)"/,3"%"* )"5"0/0* 13"$)6"1,)*3*,)"/ "0#"/(/"/(30. %"/4*/(,)0/ "0."/"0 ,*/(.0/(,65.&.03*"-1"3, )"58","8 0'4$*&/$&5&$)/0-0(:

5IBQ4BLBF /POH1MPOH 1BL,IMPOH 0 km 20 )"5#"/,365 ,P:BJ$IJN 0 miles 20 8BOH:BP #"/(4"1)"/ !O"ANG3APHAN +O4HALU +O3ING #BOH4BQIBO/PJ +O3ANG

/POH"J,BFX

.BJ4PNCVO +O7IANG 5IVOH.BIB



2

A 5B)POH

O 

2 1BUIJV O )"55)6/( 86"-"&/ 5IB.BLBN ,0/(".:"* /POH1BL #BOH "/%,0/("./0* $)6.1)0/ #BO/B )"54"*3* ,SBCVSJ )*/-", "05)6/( /(". .",)". 4BXJ +O+ULA )STHMUSOF+RA #P,BIB ,IBP'BDIJ

KO )"5"36/05)"* 4A 3BOPOH 1BL/BN-BOH4VBO Gilded spire of Wat Thammikaram on Khao 1IVLFU 4VSBU -BOH4VBO Chong Krajok, Prachuap Khiri Khan 5IBOJ 134 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Phetchaburi 1 UA'F7iF Settled since at least the 11th century, Phetchaburi (often spelled Phetburi) is one of Thailand’s oldest towns. Capital of the , it has long been an important trading and cultural center, and Mon, Khmer, and Ayutthayan influences can be seen in its 30 temples. During the 19th century it became a favorite royal retreat, and Rama IV (see p151) built a summer house here on a hill, Khao Wang, west of the center. This is Fountain, Phra Nakhon Khiri now part of the Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Phra Song Road Park (see p136). Other major To Phra A crowded road in the sights are the 17th-century Wat Yai Nakhon Khiri heart of Phetchaburi. Suwannaram, the five Khmer prangs of Historical Park Wat Kamphaeng Laeng, and an old quarter that has retained much of its original charm. However, accommodations are scant and most visitors come only on day trips from Bangkok.

BANDAI-IT

Wat Mahathat Worawihan The five white Khmer-style prangs of this much-restored 14th-century temple domi- nate the town’s central skyline. Figures of angels and gods decorate the roofs of the main wihan and bot.

STAR SIGHTS Wooden To Wat Tho . Phra Nakhon Khiri Shophouses Concrete may have Historical Park replaced wood in most . Wat Yai Suwannaram Thai towns, but attrac- tive wooden buildings, . Wat Kamphaeng many lining the river Laeng bank, are still a feature in Phetchaburi.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 PHETCHABURI 135

. Phra Nakhon VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Khiri Historical Park Road Map C1. 75 miles As an avid (120 km) SW of Bangkok. astronomer, Rama IV * 80,000. £ c n TAT, had this observatory Cha-am (0-3247-1005). ( daily. _ Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair conveniently built (8 daysin early Feb). next to his hilltop summer palace; this is now a museum. The surrounding park is magnif- icently landscaped and forested, offering extensive views of Phetchaburi.

To Wat Chisa-in

CHISA-IN

DAMNOEN KASEM . Wat Yai Suwannaram Built during the Ayutthaya period (see pp40–41), the temple is notable for the lovely original PONGSURIYA ROADmurals of Hindu gods in the bot. PHET A scripture library stands on stilts in the middle of a large pond on the grounds.

0 meters 75 PHANIT JEROEN

0 yards 75

To Wat Yai Suwannaram

PHRA SONG

KEY MATAYAWONG Suggested route Market

To Wat Kamphaeng Laeng . Wat Kamphaeng Laeng This is one of the few surviving Khmer shrines in Thailand outside the northeast. The five laterite prangs of the temple, in varying states of disrepair, are typically Khmer in design and may date from the 12th century. Originally a , it was later adapted for Buddhist use. 136 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Phetchaburi An old city replete with historical buildings and temples, Phetchaburi, which means Diamond Town, is a royal city of frangipani flowers and exotic sweets. It is divided by the Phet River, which winds its way through this provincial capital. Many of Phetchaburi’s wats and tem- ples, especially from the Ayutthaya period, are well preserved and others have been expertly restored. The city skyline is dominated by the Statue of pinnacles of the wats and three large hills over Rama V its western side. Phetchaburi’s architecture is influenced by Buddhist iconography and is a combina- tion of Oriental, Indian, European, and Khmer styles. Three-tiered gilded Buddha images at Wat Mahathat Worawihan

 Khao Wang and Phra other buildings. The Royal Nakhon Khiri Historical Park Palace and Ho Chatchawan U!TH$VGSNi4ET68FSH2^JTK2FzAFS6"F"^F Wiangchai, an observatory Off . Tel 0-3242- tower built for Rama IV who 5600. # 9am–5pm daily. & 8 was an accomplished astron- 0 = omer, are both perched on Perched on the summit of the western rise. The Phra the 302-ft (92-m) high Khao That Chomphet, a white chedi Khiri hill, Phra Nakhon Khiri, erected by Rama V, stands on literally, Celestial City of the central rise while Wat the Mountain, is now a his- Maha Samanaram, containing torical park dominating the some fine murals, dominates northwestern skyline of the eastern rise. In 1988, the Phetchaburi. This palace complex was converted into complex was built as the a historical park. Access to summer residence of Rama IV the summit is either by way in the 1850s and the hill is of winding cobblestone paths, Sunlight illuminating the main now locally known as Khao or by funicular railway to the chamber at Cave Wang or Palace Hill. The king west of the hill, for visitors ordered the building of this who do not want an energetic Khao Luang Cave complex as a getaway from uphill trek. This park merits at 3†U!TLGH$ Bangkok. Chinese, European, least a half-day excursion. 3 miles (5 km) NW of town center. and Japanese architectural # 8am–6pm daily. & voluntary flourishes are blended with  Wat Mahathat donation. 8 = local Thai designs. Set among Worawihan The large and spectacular forests, rocks, and caverns, it H1DLT5T2iHFH^LTF Khao Luang Cave has three offers a fine view of the town Thanon Damnoen Kasem. linked chambers filled with as well as a panoramic vista # 8:30am–4pm daily. stalactites and a number of of the province. The entire Located in the center of Buddha images, including complex extends over three town, the five unmissable a phra non (Reclining peaks and includes royal white prangs of the Wat Buddha). The main bronze halls, temples, palaces, and Mahathat Worawihan rise image was cast on the orders of Rama V (r.1868–1910) and dedicated to his illustri- ous predecessors, Rama III (r.1824–51) and Rama IV (r.1851–68). There is a natural opening in the roof of the second chamber and sunlight streams through, especially on clear days, illuminating the images inside. To the right of the cave entrance at the foot of the hill, is Wat Tham Klaep. Also known as Wat Bun Thawi, the monastery’s distinctive wihan and bot have beautifully carved wooden doors. View of Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 PHETCHABURI 137

against the skyline forming the spiritual heart of Phetchaburi. It is thought to have been built in the 14th century, but attained mahathat status – the rank of a monastery with a chedi containing a relic of the Buddha – only in 1954. The relic at Worawihan was donated by the present king, Rama IX. The temple, distin- guished by its prangs – the central one 180-ft (55-m) high – and its Khmer-style chedi, is influenced by the Mahayana school of Buddhism. The sacred sema stones that mark the temple precincts may be relics of an even older version Buddha statue among Khmer ruins, Wat Kamphaeng Laeng of the wat. Some of these stones date back to the late main bot constructed in the prangs survive, each of which Dvaravati period (see p39). Ayutthaya style, is without was probably dedicated to a There is a large wihan in any windows. The complex particular Hindu deity. They front of the temple, housing also has an unusual hor trai are set in a cruciform arrange- a splendid multitiered Buddha (scripture repository) in the ment facing east. Made of statue. The walls of the wihan middle of a lotus-filled pond. sandstone and laterite, with are decorated with more than It is raised on stilts above the Dvaravati stucco work on the 100 murals. Many of these water to protect the palm leaf walls, the complex dates back depict Thai people dressed in manuscripts from white ants to the 11th or 12th century. European-style clothing from and other destructive insects. the Victorian era.  Phra Ratchawang  Wat Kamphaeng Laeng Ban Puen H1 VA$VG$ AFSFT'H$7†T686 Thanon Phongsuriya. # 8:30am– 1 mile (2 km) S of town center. 4pm daily. Tel 0-3242-8506–9. # 8am–4pm Located in the eastern part of daily. & Phetchaburi, Wat Kamphaeng Located in the middle of the Laeng is undoubtedly the Phetchaburi military barracks, town’s oldest surviving struc- Phra Ratchawang Ban Puen is ture. This semi-ruined Khmer an early 20th-century palace. building indicates that the city Constructed by Rama V, the was probably the southern- building is more a grand most part of the Khmer European-style villa than a Empire (9th–13th century) palace. The work began that stretched east as far as shortly before his death in the Mekong delta and the 1910, but was not completed South China Sea, and north until 1916. The palace de- Ancient murals depicting Buddhist to central Laos. Originally signed by German architects mythology, Wat Yai Suwannaram believed to be a Hindu place is in the modernist European of worship, it was converted style patronized by Thai mon-  Wat Yai Suwannaram into a Buddhist temple. Five archs and has beautiful glazed H1XL*€KiHFF0TFTD rather ramshackle Khmer tiles adorning its interiors. Thanon Phongsuriya. # 8:30am– 4pm daily. Perhaps the most appealing of Phetchaburi’s many tem- ples, Wat Yai Suwannaram is a 17th-century temple noted for its series of 300-year-old murals of thevada (Buddhist angels) on the interior walls of the main wihan. Nearby lies a teak sala with finely carved doors, one of them bearing a cut reportedly made by an invading Burmese soldier’s sword during the war of 1767 (see p41). The Glazed tiles and marble figurines inside Phra Ratchawang Ban Puen 138 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Thailand’s Sweet and Dessert Capital Phetchaburi is well known sweets) differ in textures and throughout Thailand for the vari- cooking styles from their ety and excellence of its sweets, Western counterparts and are which are based on natural often served with ice, wrapped local products such as palm in banana leaves, or as small sugar, palm seeds, coconut, Ripe bananas, cakes. Two of Phetchaburi banana, rose apple, pineapple, used in sweets province’s most important festi- and many other fresh seasonal vals – the Phra Nakhon Khiri fruits. Phetchaburi tanot (palm sugar) Fair and Thai Song Dam Festival – is believed to be particularly sweet showcase these local sweets. Villagers and refreshing, and is combined with dressed in traditional costumes dem- other ingredients such as flour, eggs, onstrate traditional sweet-making and and rice. These Thai khanom (Thai also sell them at the festival fairs.

Thai khanom, unlike Western sweets, are rarely stored or wrapped. They are usually made for swift consumption and taste better fresh.

SWEET AND DESSERTS MARKET Coconut is one of the most Almost all markets in Thailand have a sweet and dessert versatile ingredients in Thai section offering everything from national favorites to local sweets. It is used in various specialties. Most vendors are happy to let visitors sample forms to make a wide the merchandise before purchase. array of desserts.

Khao tom mat sai kluay is made using another typical Thai base – sweetened sticky rice. Flavored with coconut milk and steamed in a banana leaf, this dessert is eaten with fresh fruits such as ripe bananas and durians.

The golden three – thong yip, thong yawt, and foy thong – are famous Phetchaburi desserts made Wun maphrao is a colorful by boiling duck egg yolks in a palm jelly made with coconut, sugar syrup. Different textures agar-agar, and sugar. It is emerge due to the cooking process. often found in open-air markets.

Kalamae is a local Tako is a delicious toffee made out of custard made out of coconut cream, green pea flour, sugar, and water chestnuts, flour that is sugar, and coconut thickened cream. It is cooked into a sticky in pandanus leaves solid and then cut and served chilled. into bite-sized pieces. UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 139

Long verandas connecting different halls and chambers in Marukhathaiyawan Palace

Cha-am 2 seafood alongside local home to at least 40 species specialties of roast chicken of mammals including tigers, 'SN and roast pork. Large resorts leopards, elephants, gibbons, have sprung up alongside the and Asiatic bears. Thousands Road map C1. 21 miles (34 km) beach. Apart from this, there of migratory birds come here S of Phetchaburi. * 20,000. £ c are also some formal dining from as far as China and n TAT, 500/51 Phet Kasem Rd, options along the northern Siberia to breed and feed in Cha-am (0-3247-1005). ( daily. end of the beach. the salt marshes. Kaeng Krachan offers Famous for its 3-mile (5-km) visitors some excellent hiking long sandy beach, Cha-am has Kaeng Krachan as well as boat rides through experienced a dramatic surge the 45-sq km (17-sq mile) 3 in popularity since the mid- National Park Kaeng Krachan Reservoir, fed 1980s. From a quiet fishing Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^V €$ FS%T6 by forest streams and rivers. village and local market town, it has developed into a lively Road map C1. Park HQ off Hwy weekend getaway for visitors 3175, 30 miles (48 km) W of Marukhathaiyawan from Bangkok. Cha-am. n Park HQ (0-3245-9293); 4 Other attractions in the Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760) for Palace town include the large market bungalow bookings. £ c & AFSFT'H$DP"4TEH6 for fresh produce, the fishing www.dnp.go.th pier lined with seafood res- Road map C1. Off Hwy 4, 5 miles taurants, and Wat Cha-am, a Containing pristine tracts of (9 km) S of Cha-am. n TAT, Cha-am small cave temple dating back tropical evergreen forest, (0-3247-1005). @ from Cha-am. to the Ayutthaya period (see Kaeng Krachan National Park # 8:30am–4:30pm daily. pp40–41). The town caters attracts few visitors despite & donation. ^ in bedroom. chiefly to Thais who are fond being the largest national of their food and drink and park in Thailand. Established The erstwhile summer home there are plenty of options in in 1981, it spans an area of of Rama VI (r.1910–25), and around the beach. Stalls 1,150 sq miles (2,920 sq km) Marukhathaiyawan Palace, and vendors sell delicious covering nearly half of the meaning the Palace of Love grilled fish and other fresh Phetchaburi province. It is and Hope, is a grand teak building. Designed by an Italian architect, this palace was constructed in just 16 days in 1923. However, it was abandoned when Rama VI died two years later and stood neglected for decades. It has since been restored to its original glory. Yet, despite its accessibility, the palace is rarely visited. The airy building with its simply decorated halls, veran- das, and royal chambers is painted in pastel shades. The walkways have lovely views Horses for hire along the long stretch of beach at Cha-am of the beach and the sea.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 140 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Hua Hin 5 Centara Grand Resort and Villas (see p299), retains its LHL^6 period charm with winding Hua Hin was Thailand’s first beach resort. teak staircases and high- ceilinged rooms. It is almost The key to its success was its rail connec- obligatory to stop by for a tion to Bangkok, completed in 1911. drink, just to soak in the Following the international trend for atmosphere. The hotel fell recuperative spa resorts at the time, Hua into disrepair in the 1960s, Royal waiting but sensitive restoration won it room Hin became a popular retreat for minor Thai royalty, Bangkok high society, and the Outstanding Conservation affluent foreign visitors. A nine-hole golf course was Award in 1993. It was used in built in 1922 and Prince Chulachakrabongse (1908–63) the film The Killing Fields, as a stand-in for the Renakse Hotel built a summer palace here in 1926, which he called in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Klai Klangwon, literally, Far from Worries. Despite a decline in fortunes post World War II, this seaside town L Hat Hua Hin has grown into an international resort, with beer bars LT1LHL^6 sharing the seafront with several upscale resorts. Thanon Damnoen Kasem. 0 = Named for the large, smooth, boulders that litter its north- ern end, Hat Hua Hin, or Hua Hin Beach, is a surprisingly good beach with clean, soft, white sand. Extending for about 3 miles (5 km), it is lined with small souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. The best stretch, however, is in front of the Railway Hotel. Set back from Hat Hua Hin for much of its length is a long line of condominiums and luxury homes. Relatively quiet on weekdays, the beach is usually bustling with activ- ity on weekends. Good for Red- and white-tiled platform at Hua Hin Railway Station swimming, Hat Hua Hin also offers pony rides for children Hua Hin Railway Station Railway Hotel and a variety of thrilling K3T6 F3WBLHL^6 YF$VFDF3WB watersports such as water- Thanon Liap Thang Rot Fai. 0 = 1, Thanon Damnoen Kasem. Tel 0- skiing and kiteboarding. Billed as Thailand’s “most 3251-2021. 0 = www.sofitel.com beautiful train station”, this is Built in 1923, the splendid ( Night Market also one of the oldest, dating Colonial-style Railway Hotel 2GT1Y2†Fin$ back to the late 19th century. provides an insight into the Thanon Dechanuchit West. # 5pm The most striking feature is Hua Hin of the 1920s. A luxu- to midnight daily. 0 = the main wooden building, rious upscale spa and resort in Bustling with people and which today serves as the its modern guise, the hotel, activity, the Hua Hin night passenger reception and wait- now known as the Sofitel market extends for a short ing room. It was originally a royal pavilion at the Sanam Chan Palace in Nakhon Pathom. Constructed in the late Rattanakosin style of Rama VI (r.1910–25), it features temple-like multitiered roofs with typically Thai uptilted eaves, as well as elongated, lozenge-shaped vertical win- dows painted in rust red and creamy yellow. A gleaming, retired steam locomotive is on display opposite the platform. The building exudes a seduc- tive, period charm and is a favorite with most camera- happy visitors to Hua Hin. Beachside restaurant with great sea views, Railway Hotel

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 141

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map C2. 17 miles (27 km) S of Cha-am. * 85,000. £ @ c n TAT Cha-am, (0-3247-1005). ( daily. _ Hua Hin Jazz Festival, Jun www.tourismhuahin.com

j Khao Takiab U!T2SU E7 4 miles (6 km) S of town center. = Rising just 250 ft (76 m) above sea level, Khao Takiab, or Chopstick Hill, is covered Picturesque park with walking track atop Khao Hin Lek Fai with several small shrines and images of Guan Yin, Goddess distance along both sides of j Khao Hin Lek Fai of Mercy. Near the foot of the Thanon Dechanuchit, and U!TL^6ULGr WB hill is a 66-ft (20-m) tall statue especially at the Thanon 2 miles (3 km) W of town center. of a Standing Buddha. Nearby Sasong crossroad. The market 0 = stands Wat Khao Lad, an is open from 5pm to mid- A 518-ft (158-m) high hill, impressive Buddhist temple night. The area is usually Khao Hin Lek Fai, or Flintstone with a distinctive pagoda. teeming with locals intent on Hill, has a quiet park at the commerce and visitors who summit offering scenic views flock to the various reasona- across town. There are six bly priced stalls, bargaining separate viewpoints identified for souvenirs and other pur- by signs. The park’s entrance chases. The roadside eateries, is by Suksamran Temple and usually quite clean and hygi- can be reached on foot, car, enic, are wonderful for a deli- or bicycle. It is frequented by cious fresh seafood dinner, early birds who come here to made to order. This is also the exercise or relax and enjoy place to buy souvenir T-shirts the beauty of the area. By the and other cheap clothing, side of the road leading up DVDs, as well as secondhand the hill, bustling Chatchai books in English and other Market sells a wide variety Southern end of Hat Hua Hin, with Western languages. of snacks and souvenirs. Khao Takiab in the background

0 meters 250 HUA HIN TOWN CENTER 3 0 yards 250 Hat Hua Hin Hua Hin Railway Station 1 */ .4 $)"". )0 4 /$ Night Market NJMFT LN 5 /0 ) )" " 5 40*  2 -PDBM#VT 5 Railway Hotel / ) 4UBUJPO 0 "  /    / *5 *   0 $) 4 0  6 / / 1 )" 5 ,IBP)JO )  $ / %&  ) &   -FL'BJ " 0/ * " 5 / 0 NJMFT LN & 5)" 4 / , 1 0

 " 5 , /

)

4 )  

" 

& & 

) 

5 . / 

" ) /

 0

5 " "

/JHIU.BSLFU  / / 3 

1 0 &

0 / 40* 5 5

) 0 % 

5  " " /  ) )

* - / 4 .

" B 0 6 " / 3 U / , / #"  1 8BU */5" * #  0  * )   0 4   5  "NQIBSBN /  V  )  4  *   B " "  4*/ 40   / 4 ":  6 ) ./ 1 ( 0 "  )     J  / /   * O & 40* ,"/+"/0."* 3 "/0 4 0 5) (   5   0      & & ,  5 * 5 *   % 7 " 0  0 "   4 ' . / 4    " "  , &     4 & . * 0 / . , " " / /   3BJMXBZ)PUFM 5 ) 4"56,"3/  / 0 & % " . 426"3&                          4 0 * ,IBP5BLJBC )VB)JO NJMF LN 3BJMXBZ4UBUJPO Key to Symbols see back flap 142 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Coastal road linking Hat Naresuan to Pranburi

Pranburi 6 of the mangrove swamp lined with tall palm and making it easy to trek through casuarina trees. The beach is 8FT07iF the forest. River trips by boat known by several names. A can be arranged from the small hill at its southern end Road Map C2. 22 miles (35 km) S park office open throughout which resembles a kalok of Hua Hin. * 70,000. £ @ c the day. Pranburi is also well (skull) gives it the popular ( daily. located for visitors to Hat name of Hat Khao Kalok, Naresuan and Khao Sam Roi or Skull Hill Beach. Another A small town which is now Yot National Park nearby. name for the beach is Pak becoming a preferred destina- Nam Pran after the town tion for visitors to Thailand, Y Pranburi Forest Park located 5 miles (8 km) to its Pranburi is blessed with pris- # dawn to dusk daily. & north, at the mouth of the tine beaches and a handful of Pranburi River. Its official good resorts. A popular attrac- name, Hat Naresuan, however, 7 tion here is the Pranburi Hat Naresuan honors King Naresuan (see Forest Park, an area of man- LT16UFJHF‰>‰8T 6†8FT0 p41) who re-established grove forests located by the Siamese independence and Pranburi River. Declared a Road Map C2. 6 miles (10 km) E drove out the Burmese in the forest park in 1982, it covers of Pranburi. £ @ c n TAT, late 16th century. Originally an area of 2 sq miles (5 sq Cha-am (0-3247-1005). 0 = frequented by rich Thai km). The reserve lies close to families, it is now developing the sea and boasts a 1-mile Perhaps the first quiet beach into a busy resort with several (2-km) long beach, lined with south of Bangkok, Hat upscale as well as inexpen- palm trees. An elevated wood- Naresuan is a long stretch of sive boutique hotels and en platform runs above part almost deserted golden sand, restaurants, a few small markets, and a variety of utility stores. Although not a spectacular beach, Hat Naresuan is popular for its attractive and reasonably priced accommodations. Dolphins playing in the sea are a common sight here and can usually be seen directly from the shore. There are several seafood restaurants in Pak Nam Pran town, as well as along the beachfront, which serve fresh food.

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park 8 Ni4ET6VLt$'T2^U!TKTDFNEEN1

Popular beachfront restaurant on Hat Naresuan See pp144–5.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 143

Hat Sam Roi Yot 9 LT16DKTH

Road Map C2. Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. @ c n TAT, Cha-am (0-3247-1005). 0 = A clean beach with crisp, golden sand and shaded by palm trees, Hat Sam Roi Yot, also called Hat Nom Sao, runs through the eastern part of the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. This beautiful beach is considered safe and good for swimming. Basic, yet Beautiful Hat Sam Phraya, an ideal beach for campers comfortable beachside accom- modations are available and Hat Laem Sala 0 eastern edge of the Khao Sam there are also a number of Roi Yot National Park, the small and friendly restaurants LT1VLGDJTGT beach is equipped with a and bars. Hat Sam Roi Yot visitor center, restaurants, and also serves as the jumping-off Road Map C2. Khao Sam Roi Yot basic bungalow accommo- point for several small, National Park. @ n TAT, Cha-am dations. Beachfront offshore islands including Ko (0-3247-1005). 0 = restaurants serve a variety of Nom Sao, Ko Kho Ram, Ko fried seafood. The water here Rawing, and Ko Rawang, all An attractive beach surrounded is safe for swimming; other excellent for snorkeling and by steep limestone hills and outdoor activities include private sunbathing. These fringed by casuarina trees, Hat camping, trekking, and cave islands are easily accessible Laem Sala is an isolated diving. Hat Laem Sala also by speedboat. stretch of sand. Located at the marks the approach to Tham Phraya Nakhon. Built for Rama V (r.1868–1910), it is among the most popular caves in Thailand.

Hat Sam Phraya q LT1KTDAFSET

Road Map C2. Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. @ c n TAT, Cha-am (0-3247-1005). 0 =

A relatively untouristed white sand beach Hat Sam Phraya is well-equipped for campers visiting the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, with washing facilities as well as toilets on either end of the beach. There are also adequate, if not luxurious, bungalow accom- modations, and small seafood restaurants and shops. Fine views across Hat Sam Phraya can be had from the summit of nearby Khao Daeng, or Red Hill, especially at sunset. Visitors can also embark on a cruise to explore Khlong Khao Daeng, or Khao Daeng canal. Located only about 1 mile (2 km) from the park, the canal is fringed by mangroves. This relaxing trip, lasting over an hour, covers a distance of 3 miles (5 km), Rocky outcrop with thick vegetation, Hat Sam Roi Yot and is best taken at sundown. 144 THAILAND’S BEAHCES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park 8 Ni4ET6VLt$'T2^U!TKTDFNEEN1 A small coastal park, Khao Sam Roi Yot, which means Mountain of Three Hundred Peaks, covers an area of 38 sq miles (98 sq km). It is a region of contrasts – sea, sand, and marsh, backed by mountains and caves. “Beware of monkeys” sign The park is best known for its distinctive limestone pinnacles, the highest of which, Khao Krachom, rises to a height of 1,985 ft (605 m). The park’s fine beaches, freshwater marshes, and man- grove forests provide sanctuary to millions of migratory birds flying from Siberia to Sumatra and Australia; these birds rest, feed, and breed here. It is also home to the Villagers fishing in the rich waters 0RANBURI dusky langur, the slow loris, and crab-eating macaques. off Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park MILES KM . Spectacular Birdlife Located on the East Asian-Australian Flyway, the marshland areas of the park are home to some 300 species 5IVOH4BN 3PJ:PU of birds – migratory species account for almost half of these. They can be seen between the months of September and November and from March to May.

Ban Rong Jai is the location of one of the three park headquarters at Khao Sam #BOH3POH+BJ Roi Yot. It has an attached (UA(IN nature study center. MILESKM ,IBP,SBDIPN  GU N Khao Krachom dominates the limestone crags of the park. At 1,985 ft (605 m), it is not an easy climb.

Mangroves Mangrove swamps and forests form an important coastal defence against high waves and storms; they also provide an impenetrable sanctuary for all kinds of wildlife, notably macaques and crabs. #BO%PO :BJ/V ,IBP STAR SIGHTS %BFOH 0RACHUAP 7JFXQPJOU +HIRI+HAP - . Spectacular Birdlife MILESKM

. View of the Three The southern marshlands Hundred Peaks have been little affected by 0 km 2 encroaching shrimp farms. Tham Phraya Nakhon . 0 miles 2 These pristine areas remain the best bird-watching spots.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 145

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map C2. Park HQ off Hwy 4, 27 miles (43 km) S of Pranburi. n Park HQ (0-3282- 1568); Forestry Dept (0-2562- 0760). @ c Pranburi, then songthaew. & = www.dnp. go.th (for bungalow bookings).

. View of the Three Hundred Peaks The park’s many limestone peaks are clad in evergreen and deciduous bushes and trees. These peaks do not make easy walking or climbing, but offer a wonderful spectacle, particularly at sunrise and sunset.

#BO,IBP/JBX Hat Sam Roi Yot %PMQIJO#BZ Well served with facilities such as public washrooms, picnic areas, and restaurants, Hat Sam Roi Yot lies just outside the park. It also has good mid-range accommodations. ,P-BN

#BO 1IV/PJ ,P/PN4BP (6-'0' 5)"*-"/%

)BU1IV/PJ

#BOH1V ,P 5IBN 4BUUBLVU ,BFX

)BU-BFN 4BMB . Tham Phraya Nakhon #BO)VQ This mesmerizing cave was made famous after 5B,IPU Rama V ordered the building of an attractive #BO,IVOH sala (pavilion) for himself here. Its attractions 5BOPU include the curiously shaped “crocodile rock” and “pagoda rock”.

Tham Sai, a small cavern, )BU4BN 1ISBZB provides sanctuary for numerous bats and swiftlets. KEY Hiking trails Beach Marked hiking trails are Viewpoint scattered throughout the #BO ,IBP Peak park. The Khao Daeng %BFOH Viewpoint Trail, however, Visitor information remains the most popular. Minor road The panoramic views Trail from its summit, of the park and surrounding Park boundary sea, are breathtaking.

Monk ringing a bell for an early morning prayer call, Prachuap Khiri Khan

148 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

town and bay. Hundreds of macaques live in the area and visitors often come here to watch them. Every evening, the monkeys climb to the top to feed on the many beautiful frangipani trees. The town makes up for its lack of entertainment by its fantastic cuisine. Freshly caught seafood is available at quality restaurants and stalls along the promenade near the pier. Prachuap Khiri Khan is also a good base to explore the surrounding areas. The common mode of transport here is the saaleng (an improvised motorcycle with a side car). Wat Thammikaram atop Khao Chong Krajok at Prachuap Khiri Khan Prachuap Khiri and Singapore. Today, the Wat Khao Tham town is rather pleasant and e Khan w laid-back. Fishing is the Khan Kradai 8FS%H7" F !65z primary occupation of the H13†U!T"kn6 FSW1 locals and their colorful, Road Map C2. 47 miles (75 km) S painted fishing vessels are Road Map C2. 5 miles (8 km) N of Pranburi. £ @c g n TAT usually anchored in the local of Prachuap Khiri Khan. @ Cha-am (0-3247-1005). ( daily. harbor. Pineapple farms and # 8:30am–4pm daily. 0 = coconut plantations occupy Located along the thinnest many acres of land and A Buddhist cave temple set stretch of Thailand, between contribute to the economy of above the beautiful Ao Myanmar on the west and the area. The inland edge Khan Kradai, also the Gulf of Thailand on the of the town is ringed with known as Ao Khan east, Prachuap Khiri Khan is limestone mountains. A Bandai, Wat Khao a fairly significant fishing famous landmark – Tham Khan port. A prominent provincial Khao Chong Kradai is capital in southern Thailand, Krajok, or Mirror slightly off the the town was prosperous Tunnel Mountain – beaten track. The during the Ayutthaya period derives its name road to the temple Monk’s residence, (see pp40–41), but skips most from a natural Wat Khao Tham winds its way up a tourist itineraries nowadays. opening that Khan Kradai limestone hill over- Historically, Prachuap is resembles a giant looking the bay. significant as one of the seven mirror. Wat Thammikaram There is a trail paved with landing points from where perched on its peak is shells and signposts marking Imperial Japanese troops Prachuap’s most revered site, the route. From the cave stormed ashore in 1941, on and offers visitors fine pano- entrance, there are stunning their way to occupy Malaysia ramic views right across the views across the broad

Buddha images lining the inner chamber at Wat Khao Tham Khan Kradai

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 149

communities. Fishermen go out in these vessels to catch the ching chang – a prized local fish and an important source of livelihood. These small saltwater fish, part of the anchovy family, are cleaned, dried, and then preserved with condiments. These fish are popular among South Asian buyers. Although there is not much to do here, the friendly locals and the beautiful, well-located beach make it worth a stopover.

Ao Manao y N€THDS6TH

Road Map C2. 4 miles (6 km) S of Prachuap Khiri Khan. @ 0 = Handcrafted fishing boats anchored along the shore at Ao Bang Nang Rom Prachuap’s loveliest bay, sweep of Ao Khan Kradai. Ao Bang Ao Manao, or Lemon Bay, The wat complex comprises is lined by a fine beach. two caves; entrance is Nang Rom t Originally an R&R (Rest and through the smaller cave. This N€TH7T$6T$FD‰ Recreation) site for officers opens into a larger cave with from the nearby Royal Thai a phra non (Reclining Road Map C2. 3 miles (5 km) E of Air Force base, the beach is Buddha). A chamber near the Prachuap Khiri Khan. @ 0 = well maintained thanks to entrance is filled with Buddha the military presence. A fair is images brought by devotees Located close to Prachuap held every December in the as part of merit-making acts. Khiri Khan and its satellite air force compound commem- Carrying a flashlight is useful beach, Hat Ao Noi, Ao Bang orating the soldiers who died as the interior is quite dark. Nang Rom is home to a pros- during the Japanese landing Visitors from Prachuap Khiri perous fishing village reputed in 1941. Facilities at the beach Khan will need to arrange a for its excellent handmade include loungers, umbrellas, songthaew or saaleng from wooden fishing vessels. These cold drink stands, and a few town. Those with vehicles can colorful boats are used either restaurants. The locals are combine a visit to the wat by the local fishermen them- friendly, but visitors may be with a picnic at Hat Ao Noi. selves or sold to neighboring asked to show their passports.

Hat Ao Noi r LT1N€TH6†NE

Road Map C2. 3 miles (5 km) N of Prachuap Khiri Khan. @ 0 =

A quiet, laid-back bathing spot, Hat Ao Noi, or Little Bay Beach, is a casuarina-lined beach popular with joggers and day-trippers from nearby Prachuap Khiri Khan. To the northern end of the bay lies the small fishing village of Ao Ban Noi. The southern end is connected to the busier Ao Prachuap by a bridge. The beach is quite deserted but offers good accom- modations along with a few restaurants that serve appe- tizing seafood. The northern end of the bay is protected by a limestone massif. Scenic view of the wide sweeping bay at Ao Manao 150 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

King Mongkut Memorial Park of Science and Technology o A^A^5C0.zH^4ETJTK2FzF' TG4poKpo

Road Map C2. 10 miles (16 km) S of Prachuap Khiri Khan. Tel 0-3266-1098. # 8.30am– 4.30pm daily. 0 =

The largest open-air park in Thailand, King Mongkut Memorial Park of Science and Burmese products from across the border on sale in shops at Dan Singkhon Technology is both a memo- rial and an educational Dan Singkhon u the illegal trade continues to facility. Established in 1989, flourish. One of the unusual this park is dedicated to the 1€T6K^$!F specimens on sale at Dan memory of King Mongkut, or Singkhon is the Rafflesia, the Rama IV (r.1851–68), one of Road Map C2. 12 miles (19 km) S world’s largest flower whose Thailand’s most revered of Prachuap Khiri Khan. @ 0 = buds are sold here. However, monarchs. This park com- as the plant is parasitic and memorates his contribution to A small border post of cannot be cultivated arti- modern Thai science. More considerable historical ficially, its life span is specifically, it celebrates his interest, Dan Singkhon limited. The drive to visit to the area in 1868 to is perched high on Dan Singkhon is view an eclipse that he had a watershed in the an interesting day predicted. Attractions include Tenasserim trip from nearby an exhibition on outer space Mountains that Prachuap Khiri and astronomy, a butterfly divide Thailand Khan, and garden, and a good aquarium from neighboring unusual migratory with a walk-through glass Myanmar. This birds can be seen tunnel with many local crossing used to mark Rafflesia in full en route. It is best to species of fish and other the Mawdaung Pass, bloom avoid purchasing marine life. Other exhibits which was the most plants protected include a statue of King important road link between under the Convention on Mongkut and an American the Tenasserim province and International Trade in steam locomotive dating back old Thailand, with a regular Endangered Species of Wild to 1925. Located close to movement of people and Flora and Fauna (CITES). Prachuap, the park is ideal for commodities between the a day trip and is frequented two countries till the British by Thai families and students, i conquest of Burmese Hat Wa Kaw who usually combine a trip Tenasserim in 1826. Since LT1LH†T N to the park with a picnic at then, this trade route has Hat Wa Kaw. been closed and is now only Road Map C2. 10 miles (16 km) S used by local Burmese and of Prachuap Khiri Khan. @ 0 = Thai merchants. Dan Singkhon is at Thailand’s narrowest A beautiful casuarina-lined point – the distance from the beach encircling a small bay, village to the Gulf of Thailand Hat Wa Kaw is a quiet and is a mere 8 miles (13 km). clean beach. It is an ideal The mountain road allows place for a day trip especially visitors to look across the for visitors based in Prachuap hills into southern Myanmar. Khiri Khan nearby. Facilities This outpost is positioned to here include simple bungalow become a gateway to the accommodations as well as a Tenasserim archipelago. number of small restaurants The real attraction of Dan serving local food. Although Singkhon, however, is the there are relatively few weekend flower market with overseas travelers to be found a variety of rare flora, in at Hat Wa Kaw, the beach is a particular orchids, imported popular picnic spot for Thai from neighboring Myanmar. families, especially school Unfortunately, many of the children visiting the King Feeding fish in the aquarium at species are endangered, but Mongkut Memorial Park. King Mongkut Memorial Park

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 151

Mongkut, Thailand’s Scholar King King Mongkut, or Rama IV, was series of far-sighted reforms the fourth in the line of the which contributed to Thailand’s present ruling Chakri Dynasty, uninterrupted independence and father of the illustrious right through the period of Rama V (r.1868–1910). He ruled Colonial rule elsewhere. A lib- the country from 1851 until his eral and educated man, he death in 1868. A serious, schol- traveled extensively, learning arly man and an able ruler, about different aspects of his Mongkut and his Mongkut was interested in mat- wife Debsirindra country and its people. Mong- ters of religion and brought kut continues to be venerated important changes in Buddhism. His as one of Thailand’s most important government also formed new alliances monarchs and bears the posthumous with the Western world and began a title of maharat (Great King).

Mongkut’s envoys at the court of Queen Victoria were part of his policy to gain the backing of European powers. He turned away from his traditional allies and corresponded with foreign rulers to develop new ties with the West.

Mongkut took on the title of Rex Siamensis (King of Siam) after the style of Western kings. His ideas on monarchy were very progressive, influenced by international govern- ments. Mongkut’s foresight contributed much to the development of the nation.

Wat Bowonniwet, is where Mongkut served as a monk and later became abbot, devoting the first half of his life to reli- gion. It still continues to be patronized by the royal family.

Mongkut’s son Chulalongkorn, Mural at Wat Ratchapradit, or Rama V, was given a liberal Bangkok, depicts Mongkut education by his father and exposed observing a solar eclipse. He to Western ideas. He grew up to took a great interest in astron- become Thailand’s greatest king omy and was regarded as the who took Mongkut’s legacy forward father of modern Thai science. in modernizing the country. 152 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

train station, 3 miles (5 km) dominates an attractive bay, from the beach. There are Ao Bang Saphan, that faces comfortable, mid-range south and east across the Gulf bungalow accommodations of Thailand. Bang Saphan’s available here, as well as two beaches, Bang Saphan numerous restaurants, cafés, Yai and Bang Saphan Noi, and bars set back from the 10 miles (16 km) to the south, shore along the palm-fringed are usually frequented by coastal road. The area is also Thais from Bangkok and well known for batik produc- locals from the nearby areas, tion. These products are who visit these spots on available at local shops and weekends and vacations. The make excellent souvenirs. town also offers plenty of The northern end of the other attractions in the form beach is dominated by a of several stunning waterfalls, Buddhist temple, Wat Phra caves, as well as a driving View of a popular resort and spa at Mahathat Phraphat, easily range for golfers. beautiful Hat Ban Krut identified by its nine golden Three small islands in the and a 49-ft (15-m) vicinity of Bang Saphan Yai, high golden statue of the Ko Thalu, Ko Sang, and Ko p Hat Ban Krut Buddha, locally known Sing, are located about LT17†T6 Fj1 as the Big Buddha. 20 minutes away by The picturesque boat, and are ideal Road Map C2. 44 miles (71 km) S offshore island of for swimming and of Prachuap Khiri Khan. £ @ c Ko Lamla is a great sunbathing. Ko n TAT, Hua Hin (0-3251-3885). spot for snorkeling Buddha at Wat Phra Thalu, in particular, 0 = enthusiasts and Mahathat Phraphat is an excellent easily accessible by snorkeling desti- With the beautiful Thong Chai boat. The clear waters surro- nation with schools of moon Mountains forming a back- unding the island are a haven wrasse, parrot fish, as well as drop, Hat Ban Krut is a lovely, for exotic marine life. corals inhabiting the clear, 4-mile (6-km) stretch of beach warm waters. Snorkeling facing the clear, aquamarine tours can be arranged for a waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Bang Saphan visitors between the months The beach is used mainly as a 7T$KSAT6 of January and May. weekend destination by Thais Bang Saphan Yai provides and remains deserted during Road Map C3. 56 miles (90 km) plenty of mid-range accomm- the week. This quiet stretch S of Prachuap Khiri Khan. £ @ c odations, reasonably priced of coast between Prachuap n TAT, Hua Hin (0-3251-3885). seafood restaurants, beachside Khiri Khan and Chumphon 0 = bars, and motorcycle rentals. (see p154) is still developing. The beaches are particularly Hat Ban Krut, however, is A quiet fishing harbor with crowded around holidays easily accessible, with its own good rail and road links to such as Songkran (see p34) bus station 8 miles (13 km) the cities of Bangkok and and it is advisable to make from the long shoreline, and Chumphon, Bang Saphan hotel bookings in advance.

Houses on stilts and anchored boats belonging to the fishing community at Bang Saphan

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 153

creatures including humpback snappers, clams, oysters, and sea anemones. These islands make for an ideal day trip by a chartered boat from Hat Thung Wua Laen.

Hin Lak Ngam f L^6LG $TD

Road Map C3. 5 miles (8 km) S of Ko Ngam Yai. 4 from Hat Thung Wua Laen. n TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818).

A rocky outcrop, offshore from Hat Thung Wua Laen, Hin Lak Ngam, along with nearby Hin Pae, is one of the most rewarding dive spots off Chumphon’s coast. The out- crop, just a few feet wide, is devoid of any vegetation or even a landing spot. The appeal of Hin Lak Ngam Kiteboarding along the beach at Hat Thung Wua Laen however, lies not above water, but beneath it. The Hat Thung supporting sea fans, marine surrounding waters offer sponges, sea flowers, and fantastic underwater views Wua Laen s shoals of tropical fish. Visitors of coral reefs, gardens, and LT14in$H}HVGn6 can hire canoes, bicycles, and narrow swim through caves, motorcycles from shops along as well as an amazing variety Road Map C3. 10 miles (16 km) N the beach to explore the area of brightly colored shoals of of Chumphon. £ @ c n TAT, or take a ferry to the popular fish and other marine life. On Surat Thani (0-7728-8818). 4 dive sites nearby. a good day, visibility is 0 = around 64 ft (20 m), although at low tide or in choppy An extremely popular beach, Ko Ngam Yai and weather it is much less. The Hat Thung Wua Laen’s name, rock is sometimes visited by d which means Running Bull Ko Ngam Noi sea turtles, as well as flights Field, derives from a local U TS$TDXL*€VGSU TS$TD6†NE of migratory sea birds. legend about a magical bull Although an excellent diving that came alive while being Road Map C3. 11 miles (18 km) E spot, divers must be aware skinned by hunters and ran of Hat Thung Wua Laen. 4 from that there are poisonous fish into the forest. The beach is a Hat Thung Wua Laen. n TAT, Surat which frequent the under- long, lovely stretch of white Thani (0-7728-8818). water reefs including lionfish, sand that slopes gently into devilfish, and trigger fish. the warm waters of the Gulf Located within easy reach of of Thailand. Popular with Hat Thung Wua Laen, the local Thais, Hat Thung Wua twin islands of Ko Ngam Yai, Laen now draws growing or Big Beautiful Island, and numbers of vacationers who Ko Ngam Noi, or Small come here for the relative Beautiful Island, are especially solitude, reasonable prices, popular among vacationers and excellent authentic Thai and day-trippers for their seafood. The picturesque excellent dive sites. The beachfront is lined with a few islands are best known resorts offering bungalow locally, however, for their tens accommodations. A number of thousands of swiftlets, tiny of good seafood restaurants inhabitants that ensure a rich have also opened shop. harvest of nests for Thailand’s Hat Thung Wua Laen is a famous bird’s nest soup. The perfect spot for swimming surrounding clear waters are and also offers great snorke- home to coral reefs, unusual ling opportunities. The sur- underwater rock formations, rounding waters are home to and caves. Snorkelers will A colony of the white-bellied some fine coral reefs find a rich variety of marine swiftlets on a cliffside in Ko Ngam 154 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Phra Borommawong Thoe Kromluang Chumphon, one of the sons of Rama V (r.1868–1910). Also known as Prince Chumphon, the admiral was regarded as the father of the Royal Thai Navy. The town is also a transit point for boats to nearby Ko Samui (see pp162–71), as well as to Ko Phangan (see pp172– 7), and Ko Tao (see pp182–5). However, there are several attractive beaches at Hat Thung Wua Laen (see p153) to the north, and at Hat Sai Ri HMS Chumphon commemorating the province’s naval history, Hat Sai Ri and Ao Thung Makham to the south. There are about 47 Chumphon g military post of strategic offshore islands and the town importance. It was used by is a good base to explore the 'iDAF the army and navy as a place surrounding reefs. Visitors can to rally their forces before also head to the nearby beach Road Map C3. 105 miles (169 km) S any major war engagements. of Hat Paradonpap which is of Prachuap Khiri Khan. * 35,000. The town supposedly derives famous for its seafood. £ @ c g ( daily. its name from the Thai word chumnumphon, which means An important provincial accumulation of forces. capital, Chumphon is located One of its main attractions on the Isthmus of Kra with is the National Museum the jagged mountain range showcasing the province’s of the province to history. The Military Youth the west and the Gulf of Monument, located a few Thailand to the east. The miles from the town, com- town is a cultural border memorates the bravery of the between the Thai-Buddhist Thai soldiers who fought north and the Thai-Muslim against the Japanese during south. In ancient times, World War II. The town was Chumphon used to be a also the residence of Admiral

THE KRA CANAL For almost 400 years an idea has been mooted for building a canal across the Thatched seafood shacks lining the Thai-Malaysian peninsula, approx- beach at Hat Sai Ri imately between Ranong on the Andaman Coast and Lang Suan on h the Gulf of Thailand. The Kra Canal Hat Sai Ri was proposed to cut across the LT14FTEF peninsula at its narrowest point, the Isthmus of Kra where the Road Map C3. 8 miles (13 km) distance is just 28 miles (45 km). S of Chumphon. @ 0 = This would shorten shipping routes by creating a direct passage between The main beach in this area, the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Hat Sai Ri (not to be confused Thailand. Actual plans were first floated with Hat Sai Ri Sawi further King Narai under Narai the Great (r.1656–88) as early south) and the small village the Great as 1677 when he asked French engineers of Ban Hat Sai Ri, are easily at his court to evaluate the possibility of accessible by bus or motor- a trans-peninsular canal. A century later, Ferdinand de cycle from Chumphon. The Lessops, the designer of the Suez Canal, visited the area beach is a long curving but his plans were foiled by the British who wished to stretch of white sands backed maintain the prominence of the port of Singapore. by coconut palms. It doubles Proposals have resurfaced regularly without any effect as as an idyllic spot for holiday- the consequent politico-economic advantages would tilt the makers as well as a ground axis of power in Southeast Asia. Thus, although the Kra for local fishermen. Canal exists only on paper, its projected strategic benefits This beach hosts the annual refuse to let the concept disappear altogether. Chumphon Sea World Fair, in March to promote tourism,

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp298–300 and pp324–6 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 155

preserve the natural beauty of the region, and raise aware- ness about the local ecology. The nearby Prince Chumphon Monument includes a much revered shrine as well as the 225-ft (68-m) long decom- missioned torpedo boat HMS Chumphon. Most people prefer to visit Hat Sai Ri as a day trip from Chumphon. However, the beach has several resorts, restaurants, and bars to cater to visitors who might decide to stay the night.

Ao Thung Ao Thung Makham pier, a jumping-off point to nearby islands j Makham is visited by locals from 6 miles (10 km) off Highway N€TH4€i$DS!TD Chumphon, and the seafood 41, the long palm-lined restaurants and bars primarily stretch of white sand curves Road Map C3. 15 miles (24 km) S cater to them. However, Ao gently away to the south. of Chumphon. @ 0 = Thung Makham is becoming The beach has a memorial increasingly popular with shrine to Admiral Chumphon, The next stop down the coast foreign visitors en route to revered by sailors and from Hat Sai Ri is neighboring more popular destinations fishermen alike throughout Ao Thung Makham, a twin such as Ko Samui (see pp162– the province. This beach also bay with two shallow semi- 71). It is a good place to stay has a series of small seafood circles fringed by a long white and recuperate from traveling restaurants, food stalls, bars sand beach backed by pretty as well as escape the crowds and mid-range accommo- casuarinas and coconut on the commercial beaches dations. Longtail boats are palms. Right in the middle of for a few days. available for hire to visit the the twin bay is a small rocky many offshore islands. peninsula which acts as a Hat Arunothai, is in fact, a k dividing spit of land between Hat Arunothai good place to experience the Ao Thung Makham Nai to the LT1NFiY04E local flavor of the Chumphon north, and Ao Thung Makham province. The picturesque Nok to the south. Toward the Road Map C3. 38 miles (60 km) S fishing village of Ban Ao southern end of the latter is of Chumphon. £ @ 0 = Mamuang is just about 9 miles Wat Suwan Khuha Wari (14 km) north of the beach. Wong. Known locally as Wat A lovely beach close to the Visitors can also stop at the Pong Pang, this venerated Tako River estuary south of nearby estuary of Pak Nam temple set in front of a 256-ft Chumphon, Hat Arunothai Thung Tako to take in the (78-m) high cliff and shaded is at the very edge of the colorful sight of fishermen by coconut trees. The beach . Located departing for their daily catch.

Panoramic view of the Gulf of Thailand at sunset from Hat Arunothai

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 157

LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST

he Lower Western Gulf Coast extends south from the Isthmus of Kra to Nakhon Si Thammarat, the ancient cultural center Tof southern Thailand. This region is home to the beautiful palm-clad islands of Ko Samui and Ko Phangan, the diving hub of Ko Tao, and the unmatched splendor of the Ang Thong Marine National Park, collectively offering visitors a choice of destinations including gorgeous tropical beaches, lush forests, and historical temples.

For over 2,000 years, the Lower coastal area also acts as a bridge Western Gulf Coast has been a between the Buddhist-north major cultural crossroads with and the Malay-Muslim Hindu, Buddhist, and Islamic influenced Deep South. influences. It has also been an The forested Tenasserim Mountains important part of the ancient continue south into the Lower trade routes through the Western Gulf Coast tapering away Straits of Malacca. Finds from after Ranong. The mountains give historic trading centers way to rich and wide agricultural around the Isthmus of Kra testify lands. Palm trees stud the coast to strong links with China, India, while sharp limestone peaks the Middle East, and the Roman characterize the interiors. Both Empire before AD 1000. From the the mainland and the offshore islands 16th century onward, development offer a wide choice of beaches from of trade ties with the Spanish and the bustling Hat Lamai and Hat Portuguese, followed a century later Chaweng at Ko Samui, to the more by trade with the Dutch and British, isolated stretches at Ko Phangan. The introduced greater diversity to this rich waters of the Gulf of Thailand region. The Srivijaya Empire held can best be explored at Ang Thong sway over these parts between the Marine National Park and Ko Tao, 7th and 13th centuries and upon its while historic Nakhon Si Thammarat, decline both Myanmar and Thailand and the ancient port of Chaiya offer fought to control this territory. This an insight into the area’s past.

Holiday-makers enjoying a sundowner at a beachfront café, Ko Tao

Visitors taking elephant treks through the forested interiors of Ko Samui 158 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Lower Western Gulf Coast This part of the coast overlooking the Gulf of Thailand has miles of beautiful white sand beaches. It is home to the gorgeous Samui archipelago with its luxurious hotels, as well as the lesser developed Ko #BOHLPL Phangan favored by young backpackers. Ko Tao, to the north, is a diver’s paradise while Ang Thong Marine National Park is a tiny archipelago whose -BOH4VBO natural beauty is unmatched in all of Thailand. Apart from the surrounding islands, the Lower Western Gulf Coast has attractive beaches, some of which ,IBP$IPL are quieter than their busy offshore counterparts. Historic towns such as Chaiya, an ancient Srivijaya -BNBF settlement, and Nakhon Si Thammarat, the cultural

capital of southern Thailand, are also located here. ,IBO5IVMJ Farther inland, the Khao Luang National Park shelters some of this area’s extraordinary wildlife. 5IB$IBOB 5VOH,P 1BL,JV

1BL.BL -BFN4VJ $)"*:" 1IVNSJBOH 8"546"/ .0,,)"1)"-"3". !O"AN$ON 5IB$IBOH 5IB ,BODIBOBEJU 4BF )VB)BO 463"5 1IVO 5)"/* /B%POH 1IJO

/B1POH 4PJ

1IVLFU /POH#B - A ,IJBO4B E 4AI2OMYEN  . .ATIONAL0ARK A M

 4 #BO/B A 5FQIB P 4BO I

Palm trees on beautiful cliffs overlooking Hat Tong Yi 8JBOH4B SIGHTS AT A GLANCE )VBJ ,SBCJ 1SJL Towns and Villages Beaches and Islands 1IBSB $IBSJ 4BFOH Chaiya 1 Hat Hin Ngam r #VSJ #BOH1BJ %VTJU

Nakhon Si Thammarat Hat Khanom 8 +

H

L

pp192–5 a Hat Na Dan 9 O

N $IBXBOH G

Surat Thani 3 Hat Nai Phlao q  3 I N Hat Nai Phraet 0 0 Areas of Natural Beauty UN Hat Piti t p Laem Talumphuk Hat Sa Bua i 5IB:BOH 5IVOH:BJ ,VSBF National Parks Hat Saophao u Ang Thong Marine Hat Sichon e w National Park pp180–81 6 Hat Tong Yi Ko Phangan pp172–7 5 Khao Luang National Park o #BOH Ko Samui pp162–71 4 ,IBO Historical and Religious Ko Tao pp182–5 7 Sites SEE ALSO Khao Kha Archaeological • Where to Stay pp300–4 Site y • Where to Eat pp326–8 Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram 2

For additional map symbols see back flap LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 159

,05"0

#BO$IBMPL-BN

5IPOH4BMB ,01)"/("/

#BO5BJ "/(5)0/(."3*/& /"5*0/"-1"3, +O /B5IPO 0HALUAI ,04".6* #BO5IPOHLSVU

+O4AEN +O-AT3UM %PO4BL #HONG3AMUI Snorkeling in the clear waters around Ang Thong +O2AP (AT+HANOM -U+O4HALE 4AI.ATIONAL0ARK )"5,)"/0. GETTING AROUND )"5/"%"/ The main domestic airports in the region are at ,IBOPN Surat Thani and Nakhon Si Thammarat on the )"5/"*1)3"&5 #BO/BJ mainland, and the international airport is at Ko )"5/"*1)-"0 Samui. There are also regular flights between )"550/(:* Ko Samui and Phuket. Most of the mainland attrac- )"54*$)0/ tions are linked via Highway 41 and 4JDIPO leading to Surat Thani and Nakhon Si Thammarat. 4J,IJU )"5)*//(". The major towns are linked to each other and to )"51*5* Bangkok by regular bus and train services. Taxis, ,)"0,)" )"54"01)"0 songthaews, and tuk-tuks can be hired for short "3$)"&0-0(*$"- trips and motorbike and bicycle rentals are easily 4*5& 4B,FP arranged. The most convenient way to explore /PQQIJUBN I RA + the area is by self-driven car. Car rental facilities are easily available at Surat Thani, Nakhon Si #BO/B3FOH Thammarat, and Ko Samui. Ferry services are 5IB4BMB frequent and fairly fast, linking Ko Tao, Ko ,)"0-6"/( )"54"#6" Phangan, and Ko Samui. /"5*0/"-1"3, /B5IBQ

1SPN 1BLOBN -"&. :BOH /BLIB ,IPN ,IJSJ 5"-6.1)6, !O /",)0/4* .AKHON $IBOH 5)".."3"5 #BOH$IBL ,MBOH 1BL1IBOBOH -BO4BL 1ISB1ISPN ,IMPOH /PJ 5IB1IBZB /B#PO  G 0 km 25

N /B1IP 3PO $IJBO A N 1IJCVO %PO5SV :BJ A 0 miles 25 5IVOH H 0 4POH  4VBO R /POH1VLBSJ A -VBOH 0 M $IVMBQIPO A )VB4BJ . ,BQBOH #BO5VO E KEY A - 4POHLIMB ,IMPOH /BN5PL Major road 1BOH $IB6BU Minor road )BU:BJ Railway 160 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Chaiya 1 W'ET

Road Map C4. 367 miles (591 km) S of Bangkok. * 48,000. £ @ c n TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818). ( daily. _ Chak Phra Festival (Oct–Nov). Once an important center of Srivijaya culture in southern Thailand, modern Chaiya still contains a number of signifi- cant archaeological sites that have survived from the Srivijaya period (see p39). Stone relief on the side of the meditation hall, Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram Situated on the main railway line between the well-known most important surviving Wat Suan towns of Chumphon (see relic is Wat Phra Boromathat p154) and Surat Thani, Chaiya Chaiya, an important Srivijaya Mokkhaphalaram 2 was the regional capital of the temple. Within the compound H1KH6YD !z mighty Srivijaya kingdom in of the wat stands a central the 5th–13th centuries. Its chedi that has been pain- Road Map C4. Off Hwy 41, 4 miles name is probably a derivative stakingly restored. This (6 km) S of Chaiya. Tel 0-7743-1552. of Srivijaya, which means square-shaped structure has £ @ from Chaiya. c n TAT, radiant victory. Chaiya boasts four porches which ascend in Surat Thani (0-7728-8818). # daily. such intriguing sights as rare tiers and are topped with www.suanmokkh.org statues of Bengali-style small towers. Dating from the Buddha images and deities 8th century, the chedi is built Perhaps the best known and such as Vishnu, part of the of brick covered with stucco. most popular meditation Hindu holy trinity. These Other less well preserved, but temple in Thailand, Wat Suan fascinating statues, proud still beautiful, relics of Chaiya’s Mokkhaphalaram (often short- survivors of a bygone era, are luminous past include three ened to Wat Suan Mokkh), evidence of the Mon-Dvaravati ancient and crumbling chedis meaning Temple of the and Indic-Srivijaya influences at Wat Hua Wiang, Wat Garden of Liberation, is on the art of the time. These, Lhong, and Wat Kaew, all of associated with the well- together with a variety of which are located on a north- known International Dhamma votive tablets, are preserved south axis within the precincts Heritage movement. Run by and displayed at the Chaiya of the town. the World Fellowship of National Museum, located a Buddhists, it is an organi- 10-minute walk from the  Chaiya National Museum zation that seeks to promote railway station. Also on Phra Boromathat Chaiya, 1 mile dhamma (teachings of the display at the museum are (2 km) W of town center. Buddha) through meditation. several other examples of art Tel 0-7743-1066. # 9am–4pm The inspiration behind the Wed–Sun. ¢ public holidays. & from the later Ayutthaya www.thailandmuseum.com wat’s meditation techniques is period (see pp40–41). The the back-to-basics Buddhist

Buddha images at Wat Phra Boromathat Chaiya, one of the few remaining temples from the Srivijaya period

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 161

philosophy of the temple’s Surat Thani 3 founder, Buddhadhasa Bhikku, KiFTI+Fz5T6 who died in 1993. Within the temple a strict regimen of Road Map C4. 38 miles (60 km) physical labor, cleaning, and S of Chaiya. * 126,000. ~ 19 gardening underpins a simple miles (31 km) SW of Surat Thani. £ monastic life devoid of elabo- @ c g n TAT, 5 Talat Mai Rd, rate religious ceremonies, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818). _ superstition, and spirit Rambutan Fair (Aug), Chak Phra worship, usually associated Festival (Oct–Nov). with Buddhism in Thailand. The wat complex includes Strategically located at the the monks’ quarters, a spiritual mouth of the Tapi and Phum theater, a meditation hall, and Duang rivers, Surat Thani was a sculpture workshop, as well a prominent commercial as a library. A clearing on the center as far back as the top of a hill, which is reached Srivijaya period. Today, it is by walking past the monks’ significant as the capital of quarters and the cremation site the , the of Buddhadasa Bhikku, marks largest province in southern Boat anchored on the Phum Duang the most holy spot in the Thailand. The town, whose riverfront, Surat Thani complex. It is decorated with name literally means City of statues of the Buddha and the the Good People, is an import- rambutan, rubber, rice, and Buddhist Wheel of Law. Ten- ant center with an economy coconut. It features on day meditation retreats are that is heavily dependent on visitors’ itineraries, however, held here, beginning from the its fishing harbor, commercial as an airport and ferry port as first of each month. seaport, and cultivation of well as an important stop on the railway line between Bangkok and Hat Yai (see p280). Despite having little to offer, except its links to the past, Surat Thani’s promi- nence as a jumping-off point to the islands in its vicinity is well established. Visitors usually stop overnight on their way to Ko Samui (see pp162–71), Ko Phangan (see pp172–7), or even Ko Tao (see pp182–5). The riverside is also an appealing area with small boats ferrying people back and forth to the busy markets on the waterfront. These bust- ling markets sell fresh produce Monk’s living quarters in the midst of the jungle, Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram such as coconut and flowers.

CHAIYA’S ROLE IN THE SRIVIJAYA EMPIRE The Mahayana Buddhist Empire of Srivijaya dominated the whole Malaysian peninsula and parts of Indonesia between the 7th and 13th centuries AD. Although the majority of scholars now believe that Palembang in Sumatra was the Srivijaya capital, discoveries of temple remains and some Srivijaya exquisite stone and bronze statues (many now in the votive tablet National Museum in Bangkok) in Chaiya, provide evi- dence of Chaiya’s importance. Its strategic geographical position as a coastal port, meant that the town played an important role in the trade between India, the Thai peninsula, and China. In fact, Chaiya was mentioned in the writings of the Chinese monk I Ching, who, while visiting the area in the late 7th century, testified to its reli- gious and cultural sophistication. It is known that some of Chaiya’s rulers were connected by marriage to those of . Furthermore, it is possible that the name “Chaiya” originated as a contraction of “Siwichaiya” (a different transliteration of Srivijaya), which follows An 8th-century bronze the local tendency to emphasize the final syllable of a word. statue, Chaiya 162 4(!),!.$3"%!#(%3!.$)3,!.$3!2%!"9!2%!

Ko Samui 4 U TSKDiE ,OCATEDINTHE'ULFOF4HAILANDSOUTHOF "ANGKOK +O3AMUIIS4HAILANDSTHIRD LARGESTISLANDAFTER0HUKETAND+O #HANG)TWASORIGINALLYSETTLEDBY Coconuts, a key MARINERSFROM#HINAWHOBEGAN crop in Samui CULTIVATINGCOCONUTONTHEISLAND%VEN TODAY ITSINHABITANTSREFERTOTHEMSELVES ASchao samui ORPEOPLEOF3AMUI!BACKPACKERS HAVENINTHES TOURISMHASNOWBECOMEITSMAIN INCOMEGENERATOR2APIDDEVELOPMENT THEARRIVALOF MAJORHOTELANDSPACHAINS PERSISTENTPROMOTIONBY TOURISMAUTHORITIES ANDITSBEAUTIFULBEACHESHAVELED TOAHUGEINFLUXOFVISITORS$ESPITETHIS +O3AMUI Getting ready for a dip at the RETAINSITSPOSITIONASATROPICALPARADISE cooling Na Muang Waterfalls

+O0HANGAN "P#BOH MILESKM 1IP #BO 5BJ #BO#BOH #BO 1IP .BFOBN

!NG4HONG MILES KM /B5IPO

8BU)JO-BU )JO-BU 3URAT4HANI 8BUFSGBMM MILESKM 4".6* $ON3AK )*()-"/%4 MILESKM

Elephant Treks Elephant treks to the central Samui Highlands ,0 /B.VBOH are not only enjoyable, but also a convenient "P5IPOH 8BUFSGBMMT way to explore the relatively inaccessible interior :BOH #BO4BLFU of the island. #BO5IPOH :BOH

"P5BMJOH/HBN

#BO5BMJOH #BO5IVSJBO /HBN Secret Buddha Garden Also known as Uncle Nim’s Garden after its "P 1IBOHLIB #BO founder Nim Thongsuk, 5IPOHLSVU the Secret Buddha -BFN)JO ,IPN Garden features statues "P#BOH of various figures from ,BP Buddhist mythology. The garden is surrounded (VMGPG5IBJMBOE by lush tropical forests.

STAR SIGHTS Ko TaenISAGORGEOUS Big Buddha Statue . OFFSHOREISLANDWITH ,P.BU 4VN ISOLATEDBEACHESOF . Hat Chaweng ,P5BFO WHITESANDANDSOME . Hat Lamai BEAUTIFULCORALREEFS

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 +/3!-5) 163

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map C4. 68 miles (110 km) NE of Surat Thani. * 42,000. k 14 miles (22 km) E of Na Thon. g Surat Thani, Tha Thong, and Don Sak. n TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818). ( daily. www.samui.sawadee.com

. Big Buddha Statue The 39-ft (12-m) high statue of Phra Yai, also known as Big Buddha, dominates Hat Bangrak. It draws a regular stream of local pilgrims and other visitors.

,P4PN

"P5IPOH +O0HANGAN 4PO MILESKM )BU.BFOBN )BU$IPFOH.PO

)BU #PQIVU )BU #BO#PQIVU #BOHSBL

#BO#BOHSBL 4BNVJ.POLFZ $FOUFS 4BNVJ "JSQPSU ,P.BU -BOH

#BO$IBXFOH

,IBP1PN  GU N . Hat Chaweng 4".6* The most popular spot in Ko Samui, Hat 4FDSFU#VEEIB (BSEFO Chaweng is best known for its lively "P5IPOH nightlife, noisy beer bars, and exotic dining 5B,IJBO #BO-BNBJ options. Local DJs play Western hits alongside Thai and other music. "P-BNBJ

0 km 2 8BU )JO5B)JO:BJ ,IVOBSBN 0 miles 2 )BU)VB5IBOPO 4BNVJ"RVBSJVN BOE5JHFS;PP KEY

4BNVJ#VUUFSnZ Beach (BSEFO Dive site )BU-BFN 4FU Watersports Wat Peak International Airport Ferry service Visitor information . Hat Lamai Major road Ko Samui’s second-longest beach, Hat Lamai is great Minor road for watersports. Swimming is possible year round; visitors can also go water-skiing or windsurfing. Ferry route 164 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Ko Samui Exploring Samui is both easy and enjoyable. The mountainous interior is ringed by a nar- row two-lane, well-maintained road. Public transport is by songthaew, tuk-tuk, or taxi. Those who prefer driving can hire a vehicle from the mainland – there are plenty of shops renting motorbikes and bicycles. Car rental Hotel sign, facilities are also available at the airport. But Hat Bophut drivers must be careful while venturing on their own at night, particularly around Hat Lamai and Hat Chaweng, where drunk driving is com- mon; flash floods in the rainy season are another hazard. It is also possible to hire longtail boats as taxis Surf breaking on the gorgeous between any two points on the coast. beach at Hat Maenam

L Ao Bang Pho post office, police station, N€TH7T$8N immigration office, as well as 4 miles (6 km) NE of Na Thon. 0 foreign exchange facilities. Located close to the Although the beach here is northwestern tip of Ko Samui, not spectacular, the local mar- Ao Bang Pho receives rela- ket which sells fresh produce tively few visitors. The bay is such as fruits, vegetables, and backed by a beautiful stretch seafood, is certainly worth a of beach, fringed with palm visit, also for a taste of the trees and offers stunning views delicious local cuisine. A across the Gulf of Thailand as haven for shoppers, visitors far as Ko Phangan (see pp172– can strike some great deals at 7). The clear waters off the the various batik and souvenir beach present good snor- Delicious tropical fruits for sale at shops in the area. keling opportunities. During the local market in Na Thon Few visitors stay here, using the northeast monsoon, from the town only as a transit November to March, when L Na Thon point from where to catch the the winds are particularly L6wT4N6 early morning boat to Surat strong, visitors can also go 0 = Thani (see p161). The town is windsurfing and kiteboarding. Founded in 1905 as the also well connected to other administrative center of Ko places on the island through L Hat Maenam Samui, Na Thon is the island’s the main 31-mile (50-km) LT1VD€6† capital and main ferry port. A long circular road. Local song- 7 miles (11 km) NE of Na Thon. sleepy town with a distinct thaews departing from Na 0 = charm of its own, Na Thon is Thon’s ferry port travel either A 2-mile (3-km) long beach home to a majority of the toward Hat Chaweng and the with gorgeous views across local populace and also well- airport in the north, or popu- the waters to Ko Phangan, equipped with a supermarket, lar Hat Lamai in the south. Hat Maenam is a fairly quiet

Fishermen setting out to sea in longtail fishing boats from the pier at Na Thon

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO SAMUI 165

beach and a great place to unwind. The main road behind the beach is lined with several go-go and beer bars, cafés, and Thai restau- rants, as well as shops selling local handicrafts such as handbags, coconut bowls, Buddha statues, and beautiful ceramic products. Visitors flock to Hat Maenam for the excellent windsurfing opportunities, aided by the strong breeze that blows onshore during the northeast monsoon. Swimming is another relaxing option. Hat Maenam is easily accessible by songthaew or a hired motorcycle from the nearby Staircase leading to the towering Big Buddha, Ko Faan, Hat Bangrak town of Na Thon. (5 km) and its eastern end is Ao Thong Son and a great spot for snorkeling. A Hat Choeng Mon narrow causeway links this 4wN$K6VGSU'^$D6 end of the beach to Ko Faan, 15 miles (24 km) NE of Na Thon. a tiny islet also on the eastern 0 = end, dominated by a 39-ft A peaceful inlet with great (12-m) high Buddha statue, views across Hat Choeng Mon, which lends the beach its Ao Thong Son is dominated name. This statue is popular by a rocky cove on one side with locals as well as foreign and a beach on the other. The visitors. A bazaar of souvenir bay is ideal for swimming, stalls and cafés has sprung up diving, and snorkeling, while at the foot of the staircase, the beach is lined with restau- decorated with nagas (ser- rants and bars – great for pents), leading to the statue. spending a quiet evening. This There are plenty of accommo- area is dominated by several dation options ranging from upscale resorts and spas offer- Quiet road in Fisherman’s Village, bungalows to upscale resorts. ing state-of-the-art facilities, Hat Bophut Visitors can enjoy watersports, but inexpensive accommoda- swimming, and Thai massages. tions are hard to come by. L Hat Bophut LT17€N9i1 11 miles (18 km) NE of Na Thon. 0 = Popular with families and backpackers alike, Hat Bophut is a 1-mile (2-km) long beach with facilities better than those at Hat Maenam. Fisher- man’s Village, located to the east of the beach, is the center of Bophut. Bungalow accom- modations, a bank, bars, and restaurants, are some of the utilities available in the village, Ban Bophut. There is also a range of watersports and several dive shops.

Hat Bangrak LT17T$F 13 miles (21 km) NE of Na Thon. 0 = An ideal getaway for a family vacation, Hat Bangrak, also known as Big Buddha Beach, stretches for nearly 3 miles Sandy headland jutting into the sea at Hat Choeng Mon 166 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Busy Hat Chaweng, the longest and most attractive beach on Ko Samui

L Hat Chaweng for the exciting nightlife serving delicious Thai and LT1U&H$i centered in the area known Western food. This is also the 14 miles (22 km) E of Na Thon. as Soi Green Mango. This part spot where most of the 0 = of the beach is cluttered with beach’s nightlife is centered. The longest, busiest, and most an increasing number of bars, Although Ban Lamai still beautiful beach on Ko Samui, restaurants, and clubs. Visitors has many old teak houses, Hat Chaweng stretches for spend the nights partying, most buildings have tiled 3 miles (5 km) down the east drinking, and dancing till the roofs – a sign of the growing coast of the island. Its warm early hours. prosperity of the area. The waters, white sands, and village’s main cultural sight is back-to-nature beach bunga- L Hat Lamai Wat Lamai Cultural Hall, built lows have attracted budget LT1GSWDi in 1826, with a small folk travelers for many years. 12 miles (19 km) SE of Na Thon. museum dedicated to local At the northern end of Hat 0 = arts and crafts. Just south of Chaweng is a tranquil 3-ft The second-largest and Hat Lamai, almost as an (1-m) deep lagoon, ideal for second most popular beach extension, is another long children and novice windsur- on Ko Samui, Hat Lamai stretch of sandy beach known fers. The southernmost end, caters primarily to European as Hat Hua Thanon. This pretty Chaweng Noi, is bordered by budget travelers. Initially a beach has a predominantly coconut palms and separated quiet fishing village, tourism Muslim fishing village at its from the main beach by a has slowly taken over, becom- center. A fresh market sells a small headland and a narrow ing the mainstay of tiny Ban large variety of fruits, vegeta- stream. This part of the beach Lamai, at the northern end of bles, and seafood. is not only quieter than the the beach. The main focus is long northern strand, but also at the center of the 2-mile Y Secret Buddha Garden more beautiful – large boul- (3-km) long beach. The long KH6AFS ders alternating with discreet road behind the beach here is 7 miles (11 km) SE of Na Thon. sandy coves. The beach offers lined with all kinds of bars, Tucked away in the heavily a wide range of sporting nightclubs, and restaurants forested interior of Ko Samui, activities including wind- the Secret Buddha Garden, surfing, canoeing, paragliding, also known as Magic Garden, scuba diving, tennis, and was founded by a 76-year-old beach volleyball. The fine fruit farmer, Nim Thongsuk, coral reefs offshore make the in 1977. Surrounded by lush beach an ideal spot for some tropical forest and rocky hill- easy diving and snorkeling. sides, the garden is studded Hat Chaweng also boasts with beautiful statuary. Made the most developed tourist of concrete, the stunning infrastructure on Ko Samui. statues represent various Upscale resorts, luxury hotels, deities, mythical beasts, and and spas dominate the area, human beings in different while travel agencies, banks, postures, including a statue supermarkets, and car and of a seated Nim Thongsuk. A bike rentals can be easily beautiful waterfall continues located. Although a great as a stream through the place for a family vacation, length of the garden. Set in Hat Chaweng is predominantly the highest part of the island, visited by young travelers, Picturesque Hat Lamai with the garden also offers spec- who come here particularly drooping palms skirting the sea tacular views across the tall

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO SAMUI 167

coconut palm-covered lowlands and the Gulf of Thailand. Getting to the garden however, can prove to be quite challenging as it is only sometimes accessible via a dirt track using a 4WD from Hat Lamai. The easiest way to do this is to take a jungle tour from Hat Lamai.

} Na Muang Waterfalls 6†2 L6wTUDN$i 7 miles (11 km) SE of Na Thon. 0 = Along Route 4169, near Ban Thurian, a steep side track beside a rushing stream leads off into the central mountains of Ko Samui. About 1 mile (2 km) along this track is a stunning cascade known as Nam Tok Na Muang, or Na Muang Waterfall. A 2-mile (3-km) trek farther into the interior leads to another Popular picnic spot for locals, the spectacular Na Muang Waterfalls waterfall, also called Na Muang by the locals. Tour Hin Ta and Hin Yai of the two fisherfolk for operators generally refer to L^62TL^6ETEi eternity. These rock forma- the two as Na Muang 1 and 11 miles (18 km) SE of Na Thon. tions are perhaps the most Na Muang 2. The larger of Located on a tiny headland visited site on Ko Samui after two the falls, Na Muang 2, is immediately between Hat the Big Buddha statue. Small a popular local picnic spot. Lamai and Hat Hua Thanon, souvenir stalls selling T-shirts, About 98 ft (30 m) in height, Hin Ta and Hin Yai, or snacks such as galamae (a the falls form a deep basin at Grandfather Stone and Thai sweet dish), and other the foot creating a cool and Grandmother Stone, are natu- knick-knacks have sprung pleasant pool which is great ral rock formations bearing an up in the area. for swimming and bathing. uncanny resemblance to the Both the falls are at their human male and female sex-  Wat Khunaram spectacular best in the months ual organs. According to local H1"i0TFTD of December and January lore, in times past a fisherman 8 miles (13 km) SE of Na Thon. = when the monsoon has and woman fell in love, but Located near Ban Thurian just ended and they swell with were caught in a storm off south of Route 4169, Wat fresh rainwater from Ko this small headland and Khunaram is one of Ko Samui’s hilly interior. An ele- drowned. Through super- Samui’s more unusual spiritual phant trekking company natural forces, the rocks on attractions. While the wat is operates in the area and will the headland took on their architecturally appealing, it take visitors to the foot of Na present shape, celebrating has no historical significance. Muang 2 by arrangement. and commemorating the love What draws visitors to it are the mummified remains of a famous Buddhist monk, Phra Khru Sammathakittikhun who died here in 1973. The pre- served mummy of the monk, sitting in an upright position in a glass casing, is on display in a separate building within the complex. The place is highly venerated by the locals who come here to place flow- ers and incense on the remains of this former abbot of the wat. In surprisingly good condition and still quite undecomposed, the remains are said to be here in accord- ance with the wishes of Phra View of the curiously shaped Hin Ta, or Grandfather Stone Khru himself. 168 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

aquariums. Visitors can also take a look at an amazing vari- ety of birds kept here while enjoying a fascinating bird show. Getting photographed with birds is permitted. The affiliated Tiger Zoo nearby houses large numbers of big cats, including Royal Bengal tigers, leopards, clouded leopards, and lions, enabling visitors to get a closer look at these predators and their way of life. Those willing, One of the many varieties of butterflies at the Samui Butterfly Garden can get themselves photo- graphed with these splendid L Hat Laem Set deep and can get treacherous, creatures for a few hundred LT1VLGDUKFr%i especially during choppy seas baht. The souvenir shop in 10 miles (16 km) S of Na Thon. and high winds. Snorkelers the complex sells T-shirts 0 = and swimmers must be careful and stuffed toys. A tiny but lovely beach at the before venturing any further. southern end of Hat Hua There are a few upscale Y Samui Butterfly Garden Thanon, Hat Laem Set’s soft resorts and spas on the beach, KH69 UKwNKDiEi sand is strewn with huge as well as a handful of good 10 miles (16 km) S of Na Thon. smooth boulders. The main restaurants serving local food. Tel 0-7742-4020. # 8:30am–5pm attraction on this beach is the daily; observatory opens 10am–4pm. Ko Samui Kiteboarding Center  Samui Aquarium and & 0 = at the well-known Samui Tiger Zoo Situated on the side of a small Orchid Resort. Kiteboarding is KDiEN"HTUF ED‰VGSKH6UKNi hill at Laem Na Tien, the a relatively new but exhilarat- 33/2 Moo 2, Maret, 10 miles Samui Butterfly Garden is set ing addition to the busy (16 km) SE of Na Thon. Tel 0-7742- in lush tropical gardens. It watersports scene on the 4017-8. # 9am–6pm daily. & 0 features hundreds of species island and is at its best off = www.samuiaquarium- of protected butterflies and Hat Laem Set during the cool andtigerzoo.com moths which are kept from season from November to An ideal stop for marine and escaping by a series of high February. The Kiteboarding wildlife enthusiasts, the Samui nets. The butterflies, of which Center offers courses for all Aquarium and Tiger Zoo is a there are more than a 100 abilities and hires out kite- fascinating place to experience Thai and Malaysian varieties, boards for rental. In addition the fauna of the region. Perfect are truly beautiful. Honey to kiteboarding, visitors can for a day trip, especially with beehives and a selection of snorkel out to a beautiful off- children, the aquarium has a less appealing insects such as shore coral reef nearby. The variety of marine creatures, scorpions, tarantulas, and spi- sea is shallow at this point, such as tropical fish, sharks, ders are kept safely behind and the sandy bottom clearly sea turtles, corals, mollusks, glass casings to avoid visible. Beyond the reef, starfish, and sea horses, unpleasant accidents. The however, the waters are housed in large, clear, acrylic fee to the Butterfly Garden

Large smooth boulders strewn across the sand and water at pretty Hat Laem Set

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO SAMUI 169

L Laem Hin Khom VLGDL^6"Di 9 miles (14 km) S of Na Thon. 0 = Located at the southern end of Samui’s undeveloped west coast, Laem Hin Khom is a rocky headland that cuts off Ban Thongkrut from Ao Phangkha. Thong Tanote, a long, narrow and sandy beach, backed by tall, slender coconut palms and a tropical jungle, runs along the south- ern shore of the cape and is the setting for one of Ko Enthusiastic divers among coral Samui’s most isolated geta- reefs in the clear waters off Ko Taen ways, the beautiful Coconut Villa Resort and Spa (see includes a welcome drink as p302). This is an intimate and Swimming pool at Coconut Villa well as a visit to a hillside luxurious development with Resort and Spa, Laem Hin Khom observatory with a number of beachfront and sea view vil- observation platforms. These las. The quiet beach at Laem preserve of the backpacker platforms offer sweeping Hin Khom is ideally suited for crowd, Ao Phangkha is now views across the coast and long walks and swimming, becoming increasingly the Gulf of Thailand. Marine although the latter should be upscale. Phangkha Paradise life enthusiasts can take a trip avoided at high tide. Resort, among the popular in a glass-bottomed boat to resorts in the area, is promi- observe corals in the sur- L Ao Phangkha nently set back from the center rounding sea. N€THA$$Ti of the crescent beach, along 8 miles (13 km) S of Na Thon. with a couple of smaller bun- O Ko Taen 0 = galow-type accommodations. U TSU4 E6 Located just north of Laem There is not much to do here, 10 miles (16 km) S of Na Thon. Hin Khom is the perfectly but visitors can take a boat to 4 from Ban Thongkrut. 0 = gorgeous bay, Ao Phangkha, some of the offshore islands, A picturesque island located also known as Emerald Cove. such as Ko Thalu, Ko Din, Ko just off Samui’s southwest Isolated from the rest of Ko Maleng Po, and Ko Mae Ko, shore, tiny Ko Taen is easily Samui by the 1,312-ft (400-m) for snorkeling over the color- reached by boat from the Khao Kwang, a jungle-covered ful coral reefs. Alternatively, small settlement of Ban massif to the northeast, this is the soft white sands of the Thongkrut. Formerly home to certainly one of the most beach at Ao Phangkha pro- an isolated fishing community, remote escapes on the island. vide an ideal resting place it has now been transformed Once the almost exclusive for die-hard sunbathers. into a marine . The island is an ideal spot for diving, snorkeling, or for land-based activities such as trekking. There are just three resorts on the island, which has a population of less than 30 permanent residents. The two most popular attractions here are Ao Ok, a bay with fine coral reefs, which are great for diving or snorkeling, and Ao Tok, a small bay with perfect white sands backed by a mangrove forest, home to a variety of birds and animals. A wooden walkway runs through this forest, making it easy for visitors to explore the area. Several dark caves in the interior are the bastion of thousands of bats. The waters offshore are deep, clear, and perfect for diving and snorkeling. Longtail fishing boats anchored at the small pier at Ao Phangkha 170 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Long, curving stretch of coast at Ao Taling Ngam

L Ao Taling Ngam L Ao Thong Yang easy getaway far from the sun N€TH2G^n$$TDi N€TH4wN$ET$i and sand, the highlands are 5 miles (8 km) S of Na Thon. 0 = 4 miles (6 km) S of Na Thon. 0 = an excellent point to start jun- The main west coast bay to A quiet spot, much like the gle treks and visit Samui’s the south of Na Thon, Ao other places on the west coast famous waterfalls. Visitors Taling Ngam stretches for of Ko Samui, Ao Thong Yang who want to trek the hard almost 2 miles (3 km). The is conveniently located a way will need sturdy boots. beach along the bay is a long, 20-minute stroll from the Ko Those who want to do it in narrow curve of sand, with Samui Immigration Office, more style can do so on an the small settlement of Ban which lies to its north. The elephant courtesy of Camp Thong Yang – the port for headland to the south of the Chang Elephant Trekking. ferries from Don Sak – to its bay belongs to the Royal Thai The camp arranges treks up south. Relatively undeveloped, Navy and is a prohibited area. into the highlands around the Ao Taling Ngam is divided The area offers a variety of 2,016-ft (614-m) high Khao into Five Islands Beach to the options for fine dining includ- Pom, in the very center of the south and Dhevatara Cove to ing restaurants that serve island. These mountains are the north by a tiny stream and delectable local Thai food. accessed using a network of low headland, now home to steep, rough tracks. Other the Am Samui Resort (see } Samui Highlands sights worth visiting include p302). Visitors will find inex- KDiEWOVG61zi Wat Hin Lat, a meditation tem- pensive accommodations 3 miles (5 km) E of Na Thon. ple offering daily courses in here. Looming above the bay Wat Hin Lat Tel 0-7742-3146. Vipassana meditation, and the and with its own section of 0 = beautiful Hin Lat Waterfall. private beach lies what many A short drive inland from Na This is a steep 2-mile (3-km) consider to be Samui’s classiest Thon along Route 4172 due hike from Wat Hin Lat, but hotel – Baan Taling Ngam east leads to the forested the journey follows a beauti- Resort and Spa (see p302). highlands of Ko Samui. An ful jungle path and can be rounded off with a swim in the clear pool at the foot of the falls. Unlike most other waterfalls on Ko Samui, Hin Lat is quite off the beaten track, and rarely visited by island tour package groups. It is a great place for swimming and picnics, but hikers must remember to keep their legs covered and wear good walk- ing shoes, especially during the rains when leeches can be a problem. Those looking for some more adventure can press on further for 2 miles (3 km) to the Wang Sao Tong Falls. Experienced bikers can also explore the area on a dirt bike, but should avoid doing Statue of Seated Buddha at Wat Hin Lat, Samui Highlands so during the rainy season.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO SAMUI 171

Coconut Monkeys Coconut harvesting was once them. These monkeys are the main source of income for usually trained at the Monkey the people of Ko Samui. Much Training School on the island. of the island’s interior is cov- Another place to see monkeys ered with coconut palms and, being trained is the Samui even today, coconuts remain a Monkey Center, which also significant economic crop. holds demonstrations three Palm trees can grow up to Monkey helping times a day. Visitors can see 130–160 ft (40–50 m) high and himself to a coconut these monkeys at work on harvesting coconuts is a diffi- coconut plantations all over cult, dangerous, and time-consuming Ko Samui, especially along the north- process. To make it easier, locals train west coast around Ban Maenam, Ban macaques to pluck the rich harvest for Tai, and Ban Bang Pho.

COCONUT HARVESTING BY MONKEYS A male macaque is capable of picking between 1,000 to 1,500 coconuts a day while a female macaque can pick 600 to 700. This makes excellent economic sense, especially when compared to a human male who can pick only about 80 coconuts a day.

Trainers in Ko Samui treat their monkeys almost like members of the family.

Somporn Saekow, who died in 2002, began his monkey training school in 1957. He applied the Buddhist principles of tolerance and insisted on humane treatment of his “students”.

Ropes tied to the monkey are used to guide its movements and not meant to restrain it.

Coconut palms are extremely difficult to climb because their tall, thin trunks have no branches. Besides, strong winds add to the risk. Monkey training schools are fairly common on Ko Samui. Here monkeys learn to har- Coconut harvesting, vest the coconut – turn the together with fishing, coconuts with their hands were the mainstays of and legs, place the plucked Ko Samui’s economy nut in a bag, and bring the before the onset of bag back to the owner. The tourism. Even today, entire learning process takes they remain a vital about six months. part of its economy. 172 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Phangan 5 bay offers safe and easy snorkeling. Small cafés, bars U TSAS$6 and restaurants, a fishing vil- About two thirds the size of Ko Samui, Ko lage, and a local temple – Wat Amphawan – are located Phangan is the original backpacker’s desti- nearby. There are bungalow nation. The cheap accommodations, full moon accommodations as well as a parties, and bohemian atmosphere make the 24-hour convenience store. island attractive to young people and budget travelers, while its powdery beaches, calm bays, L Ao Hin Kong accessible corals, excellent dive sites, and a rug- N€THL^6 N$ ged forested interior make it a perfect desti- 4 miles (6 km) N of . nation for nature enthusiasts. Large parts of the 0 = Ao Wok Tum blends almost Beach island are undeveloped due to its difficult ter- imperceptibly into Ao Hin totem rain. Much of it is accessible only by sea or Kong. A narrow coastal road along rutted roads by pickup trucks. Yet, it is runs along the bay all the way Ko Phangan’s virgin beauty that makes it more attrac- to Hat Yao. An undeveloped tive than commercial tourist spots. beach that offers a 2-mile (3-km) stretch of clean, white sand running down to the Thong Sala water’s edge. The coral reefs 4wN$JTGT skirting Ao Wok Tum continue g 0 = here and the palm-fringed The largest settlement and de beach is backed by man- facto capital of Ko Phangan, groves. Serviced by a Thong Sala is the most impor- few low-scale bungalow tant town on the island. operations, and reasonably Although it is not very big, priced cafés and restaurants, Thong Sala is the main port Ao Hin Kong appeals to back- from where boats and ferries packers intending a long stay depart to other parts of the on Ko Phangan. Although it island as well as to nearby Ko offers little by way of enter- Samui and Ko Tao. The town tainment, it is within cycling provides useful facilities for distance of Thong Sala from visitors including banks, a Longtail fishing boats anchored at where visitors can make their post office, supermarkets, and the pier, Ao Wok Tum way to the more bustling travel agencies. This is also nightspots. Swimming in this the only place on Ko Phangan L Ao Wok Tum shallow bay is only possible with an international hospital, N€THH 4iD during high tide. pharmacies, and a police sta- 3 miles (5 km) N of Thong Sala. tion. There are a fair number 0 = L Ao Si Thanu of restaurants, budget hotels, Immediately around a small N€THJF 56j and bars. It is also famous headland from Thong Sala is 5 miles (8 km) N of Thong Sala. for its Thai massage which the long, undeveloped beach 0 = locals claim is the best on the at Ao Wok Tum. Although its Located just a short distance island. Visitors to the island sandy stretches are good for beyond the Laem Si Thanu can explore it by renting sunbathing or strolls, the main headland, Ao Si Thanu has motorcycles or jeeps. Alter- attraction here are the coral a small beach considered to natively they can get around reefs. Located 320 ft (300 m) be among the most beautiful by hiring a songthaew from offshore, these reefs are per- in Ko Phangan. There are next to the pier. fect for novices as the shallow adequate bungalow accom- modations here as well as two small and attractive hotels, Loy Fa and Chai Country, near the top of the cape, which offer excellent views of the nearby offshore islands and beyond. A small fishing village located at the western end of Ao Si Thanu offers basic facilities including Internet access, noodle stalls, fruit and vege- table shops, and a few bars. The main appeal of this bay, apart from the gorgeous sun- set views, is the accessible Mangroves growing along the water’s edge at Ao Hin Kong offshore coral reef.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO PHANGAN 173

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map C4. 9 miles (14 km) NE of Surat Thani. * 12,000. g from Ko Samui and Ko Tao. n TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728- 8818). ( daily.

L Hat Yao LT1ETH 7 miles (11 km) N of Thong Sala. 0 = Beach bungalows along the water’s edge at Ao Chaophao The main beach resort on Ko Phangan, Hat Yao is a L Ao Chaophao from the crowded beaches of lovely curved stretch of N€THU%†TA€N the south coast. However, in white sand. Although, it is 6 miles (10 km) N of Thong Sala. recent times, Ao Chaophao getting busier by the year, 0 = has become busier and facil- the beach is wide enough to The coastal route north from ities have sprung up to keep accommodate the upcoming Ao Si Thanu cuts inland for pace with the increased foot- resorts, restaurants, and bars, a short distance before com- fall. These include a few along with other facilities ing out into the palm-fringed bungalow operations, restau- without seeming crowded. bay of Ao Chaophao. Its long rants, and bars. The Pirate Visitors can explore the sur- beach used to be quite unde- Bar, set in a hidden cove at rounding waters on sea veloped and only visited by the end of the beach, is kayaks or travel inland on those seeking to get away definitely worth a visit. motorcycles and jeeps, which are available for hire. The sur- KEY rounding waters are good for Beach diving and snorkeling.

,P5BP Dive site L Hat Salad ,P1IBOHBO "OEBNBO Hiking 4FB ,P4BNVJ LT1KGk1 (VMGPG 8 miles (13 km) N of Thong Sala. Viewpoint 4VSBU5IBOJ 5IBJMBOE 0 = -PXFS8FTUFSO Ferry service The beautiful, small and (VMG$PBTU deeply recessed bay around Major road Hat Salad is fairly off the Minor road beaten track even by Ko

0 km 2 Phangan standards. Despite Dirt track this, it has a few guesthouses, 0 miles 2 Ferry route small shops, a bike rental, as well as Internet access. )BU,IPN According to local legend, ,P.B this beach used to be a load- "P.BF)BU "P$IBMPL )BU,IVBU ing point for pirate ships of -BN #BO'BJ.BJ yore and this adds to the )BU4BMBE appeal of the beach. Visitors #BO$IBMPL "P5IPOH )BU:BP -BN /BJ1BO can read, laze, or enjoy a nap "P in the hammocks strung up $IBPQIBP between palm trees. ,01)"/("/ "P4J5IBOV )BU4BEFU -BFN4J5IBOV #BO/BN5PL 5IBO4BEFU "P)JO,POH 'BMMT 5IBO4BEFU /BUJPOBM1BSL "P8PL5VN -

1IBFOH 8BUFSGBMM +O4AO MILES 5IPOH 8BU,IBP KM 4BMB 5IBN )BU8BJ #BO/PL /BN #BO,BJ -BFN 3URAT4HANI ,MBOH MILESKM #BO5BJ +O3AMUI - )BU5IJBO MILESKM )BU:VBO

-FBN)BU3JO Long swings suspended from coconut palms at Hat Salad )BU3JO 174 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

L Ao Mae Hat cater to the diving crowd. N€THVD€LT1 Yet, Ao Chalok Lam is usually 9 miles (14 km) N of Thong Sala. treated as a stopover between 0 = Thong Sala and Hat Khom, a An isolated and beautiful small and attractive beach cove with crisp white sand, near the northernmost point Ao Mae Hat is located on the of Ko Phangan. coast just beyond Mae Hat village in the northeastern L Hat Khuat part of the island. The eastern LT1!H1 end of the beach is mostly 10 miles (16 km) NE of Thong Sala. used by the fishermen who 4 from Ban Chalok Lam. 0 = go out looking for the crabs An idyllic spot, Hat Khuat, that populate this area and or Bottle Beach, is one of their longtail boats often lie those glorious unspoiled anchored here. The western Fisherwomen drying squid in the beaches that draw millions end is far more beautiful and sun at Ban Chalok Lam of visitors to Thailand’s coast. has long been a favorite with It is accessible by a dirt track travelers; however, Mae Hat’s fishing village. Ban Chalok from Hat Khom, but this stunning natural beauty has Lam offers an insight into the entails a tough trek through led to the development of typical rural life on the island. heavy undergrowth. More upscale resort-style accommo- Piles of squid drying on the easily reached by longtail dations to keep pace with the beach is a common sight, and boats, this beach has now tourist influx. Apart from the smell of the freshly caught become a mid-range destina- being a good spot for swim- fish is part of the overall tion that is popular with the ming and snorkeling, the experience. Fishing-related younger crowd. A delightful beach is also linked to the activities such as mending expanse of sand, tiny island of Ko Ma by a nets and gutting looking out over beautiful sandy causeway that fish coexist with pristine waters in gets exposed at low tide and shophouses sell- different shades of is shallow enough to cross by ing pizzas and aquamarine, Hat wading through the water. other snacks. Khuat is sheltered The reefs off Ko Ma are Visitors often stop Fishing rig at Ao inland by the among the best snorkeling here to buy fish after Chalok Lam wooded flanks of the spots in all of Ko Phangan. a trip to the revered 1,408-ft (429-m) high A short walk from Mae Hat is Chinese shrine dedicated to Khao Kin Non. Those seeking the Wang Sai Waterfall with the goddess Chao Mae Koan affordable bungalow accom- a clear rocky pool that is Im just outside the village. modations in a beautiful perfect for swimming. There is also a Buddhist setting away from the noisy temple near Ban Chalok Lam. parties will find this beach L Ao Chalok Lam Located offshore from Ao appealing. However, visitors N€€THY&G >D Chalok Lam, Hin Bai, or Sail must avoid this beach during 6 miles (10 km) NE of Thong Sala. Rock, is one of Thailand’s bad weather as they can be 0 = premier dive sites. Diving and stranded without a way back. The pretty bay of Ao Chalok snorkeling are popular activi- A short stroll along a dirt Lam is home to Ko Phangan’s ties here and the bay has a track leads to Ban Fai Mai most authentic, and conse- number of well-equipped village with a few small gro- quently also the smelliest bungalows and resorts to cery stores and snack bars.

Holiday-makers relaxing on the picturesque beach at Ao Mae Hat

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO PHANGAN 175

O Than Sadet National Park Nii4ET6VL€$'T2^5TFUK1r% 10 miles (16 km) NE of Thong Sala. 4 from Thong Sala. 0 = Established in 1983, Than Sadet National Park was orig- inally much smaller before being enlarged to its present size of 25 sq miles (65 sq km) in 1999. The park is named after the Sadet River. The word sadet in Thai means a stream visited by royalty; the name was given after Rama V’s (r.1868–1910) visit to the Cafés and bungalows along a rocky outcrop, Ao Thong Nai Pan spot in 1889. The largest waterfall on the island – Than L Ao Thong Nai Pan L Hat Sadet Sadet Falls – is at the end of a N€TH5$6TEAFT66†NEXL*€ LT1UK1r% popular hiking trail and has 11 miles (18 km) NE of Thong Sala. 10 miles (16 km) NE of Thong Sala. become a favored destination 4 from Thong Sala. 0 = 4 from Thong Sala. 0 = among visitors interested in Beyond Hat Khuat, Ko An untouched and fairly an alternative to beach activi- Phangan’s coastline curves to inaccessible spot, Hat Sadet ties. The highest point in the the southeast and opens into is a replica of the romantic park is Khao Ra, which rises Ao Thong Nai Pan, a lovely and deserted beaches to a height of 1,984 ft and deeply indented bay shown in films. Access (605 m). Much of Than backed by forested hills and by land is along the Sadet is covered with facing east across the Gulf difficult dirt track that dense forest, although of Thailand. A tall rocky out- runs north from Ban there are a few trails. crop divides the bay into Tai. It is far easier to The most accessible two coves – Ao Thong Nai reach this cove by point is at Hat Sadet, Pan Noi to the north and boat from Thong Sala. where the Sadet River Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai to the Neighboring the meets the sea. In the south. This is perhaps the island’s only national Rama V’s seal past, this area was least accessible bay on the park, the beach has on a rock popular with Thai island, and as a result Ao basic seaside bunga- monarchs, and Rama V Thong Nai Pan is relatively lows. Despite lacking even left his royal monogram less crowded. However, the restaurants, bars, or enter- inscribed on a large boulder bay offers some of the most tainment options, Hat Sadet as did his successors Rama attractive scenery on Ko is a delightful spot. The beach VII (r.1925–35) and the present Phangan. Only one rough is narrow as it is flanked by king, Rama IX. In fact, it is dirt road links it to Ban Tai steep rocky outcrops which said that Rama V liked this on the southern coast, which come straight down to the sea place so much that he visited is 9 miles (14 km) to the and this further contributes to it on as many as ten occa- south and is a bumpy and bone- its isolated charm. sions between 1888 and 1909. jarring ride. Alternatively, it can be reached by boat from Ko Samui between September and January which is a more comfortable option. Despite being isolated, Ao Thong Nai Pan has developed a fair bit offering restaurants, bars, Internet cafés, travel agents, and bank- ing facilities. Both sides of the beach are equally appealing, with shallow, warm waters that are ideal for swimming or snorkeling. The eastern end of Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai has some rock formations which are good for climbing. Visitors should note that the road to Ban Tai can become impassable during heavy rains, posing a serious hazard to motorcyclists and drivers. Sadet River cascading down in rocky pools, Than Sadet National Park 176 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

wellness center offering alternative treatments. There are some good dive sites nearby that are famous for sightings of whale sharks.

L Hat Yuan LT1*H6 8 miles (13 km) E of Thong Sala. 0 = Just south of Hat Thian, and within easy walking or even swimming distance, is the even smaller beach at Hat Yuan. This beach, strewn with rocks at either end, has a family atmosphere and there are cafés offering oven-fresh food and fruity yogurts along- side more traditional Thai dishes. This is a good and safe spot for swimming and Secluded palm-lined cove with aquamarine waters, Hat Thian snorkeling although visitors should be careful during L Hat Thian ferry that makes the daily run stormy weather. Although Hat LT1U4 E6 between Hat Rin and Ao Yuan is just a short distance 8 miles (13 km) E of Thong Sala. Thong Nai Pan and stops at away from noisy Hat Rin, it 4 from Hat Rin. 0 = Hat Thian on the way, but it is laid-back, quiet, and far South of Hat Sadet, the east is easier to take a water taxi. removed from the party coast of Ko Phangan is almost Hat Thian is the best among scene. Visitors to this beach inaccessible and well off the the cluster of three beaches can indulge in regular beach beaten path. There are hardly around the headland at Laem activities such as swimming, any roads along the coast that Klang. The main reason for sunbathing, and snorkeling. are better than dirt tracks and staying in this out-of-the-way one of them extends south- place is its isolated beauty, L Hat Rin ward right through the small although it has developed a LT1F^6 settlement of Ban Nam Tok fair bit in recent years. There 7 miles (11 km) SE of Thong Sala. to join up with the main is a decent selection of restau- 0 = southern coastal road near rants serving Thai and Western Located on the southeastern Hat Rin. It is probably wiser food, and a few bars with live tip of Ko Phangan, the bus- and easier to visit the island’s music and parties on week- tling beach of Hat Rin and the east coast by boat from Hat ends. There are about four adjoining village of Ban Hat Rin, especially during the resorts around this cove with Rin are the most developed rainy season, from June to bungalow-style accommoda- places on the island as well September. There is a small tions and a spa and even a as its party paradise. Set

Bungalows along the palm-fringed beach at Hat Yuan

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO PHANGAN 177

astride a narrow, sandy peninsula, Hat Rin is divided into two beaches – the lively Hat Rin Nok, or Sunrise Beach, to the east and the quieter Hat Rin Nai, or Sunset Beach, to the west. Hat Rin is popular with young people who enjoy loud music and definitely for those travelers who come to Ko Phangan for its full moon parties. These famous parties, held on the beach each month, start after dark and go on beyond sun- rise the next day. Although the parties are concentrated around the southern end of Hat Rin, especially at Hat Rin Nok, the crowds often over- flow to other parts of the Serene backdrop for meditation retreats at Wat Khao Tham beach. A festive ambience is created with lamps, makeshift in its meditation retreats. Retreat Center, the monastery bars, fire shows, and food More a meditation center is run by two resident for- and drink stalls. than a monastery, Wat Khao eigners, Rosemary and Steve During these par- Tham is an interesting place Weissman, who are also the ties, visitors should for the spiritually inclined. teachers. The objective of the take care of their Sessions on healing the body retreat is to gain insight into belongings and and mind are held on a human nature through a be wary of monthly basis over several mental development practice. strangers. days. The entry costs are The monastery is a perfect Hat Rin has a quite reasonable and include contrast to the crowds and constantly ex- food and accommodations. the wild, over-the-top full panding group of Billed as a Theravadin moon parties at Hat Rin just hotels, guesthouses, Buddhist Monastery and around the corner. restaurants, bars, and Internet cafés. Accommodations FULL MOON PARTY Statue are often fully These famous parties are held at Hat Rin every month at a bar, booked for a week during full moon. From its small origins some 25 years ago, Hat Rin on either side of the these full moon parties now attract thousands of partygoers full moon parties. from all over. Many enthusiasts flock to this beach and the In the past, most visitors to numbers can reach anything between 10,000 and 20,000 a Hat Rin were drawn to the month. The event features a mix of international and Thai clean, wide expanse of sand. DJs playing every kind of music from techno to commercial Unfortunately, the tourist pop. Visitors paint themselves with ultraviolet colors and influx has reduced some of also carry lights and props which glow. Alcohol – which is this charm. Today, the beach legal – flows freely and is usually sold as cocktail buckets. is often noisy and littered Unfortunately, a lot of illegal psychotropic drugs are also with flotsam, and should cer- easily available. These are best avoided as they can cause tainly be avoided by those severe illness or even death by overdosing. Possession of seeking isolation. these drugs can lead to fines or even imprisonment.

 Wat Khao Tham H1U!T3w 3 miles (5 km) E of Thong Sala. 0 = www.watkowtahm.org Ko Phangan is known for its lovely beaches and unspoiled vistas. Old temples or Buddhist architecture are not what a visitor would expect to see here. However, Wat Khao Tham, located to the northwest of Ban Tai on the island’s southern coast, draws both Asian and Western Revelers crowding the beach at a full moon party, Hat Rin visitors keen to participate

Visitors swimming in the shallow waters of a rock-strewn beach, Ko Samui

180 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ang Thong Marine National Park 6 Ni4ET6VLt$'T2^4T$4SUGNtT$4N$ The Ang Thong, or Golden Basin, archipelago includes nearly 42 stunning (VMGPG and virtually uninhabited islands 5IBJMBOE

covering an area of 39 sq miles (101 "OH5IPOH.BSJOF Ferry to Ang Thong /BUJPOBM1BSL Marine National Park sq km). A former naval base, it became ,P4BNVJ accessible to the public only in 1980, 4VSBU5IBOJ -PXFS8FTUFSO when it was declared a marine national park. The islands (VMG$PBTU are the submerged peaks of a flooded range of limestone mountains some of which soar above sea level to 1400 ft "OEBNBO (427 m). Ang Thong’s beauty attracts visitors who come to 4FB relax on the mica white sands, explore the lush forests and LOCATOR MAP caves, and snorkel among excellent corals. Another attraction is the abundant wildlife, both on land and in the sea. Area illustrated

0 km 1

0 miles 1

. Thale Nai Crater Lake A stunning green seawater lake in the middle of Ko Mae Ko, Thale Nai Crater Lake is the golden basin that gives Ang Thong its name. Encircled by limestone cliffs, and linked to the open sea by Ko Phaluai, the largest an underground passage, the lake offers spectacular views which island in the archi- pelago, is inhabited by a more than compensate for the strenuous hike. community of fishermen.

Kayaking Professionally guided sea-kayaking tours in and around Ang Thong can be easily arranged from Hat Chaweng or Hat Lamai in nearby Ko Samui (see pp162–71).

,P 5BP1VO

Hiking Distances are short STAR SIGHTS in Ang Thong, but some climbs are . Thale Nai Crater Lake steep, and it can . Tham Bua Bok Cave get very hot in the day. Visitors are . Ko Wua Talab advised to carry Viewpoint hats, sunscreen, and lots of water.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 181

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map C4. Park HQ on Ko ,P Wua Talab, 16 miles (26 km) N /BBZQIVE of Ko Samui. Tel 0-2562-0760 (bookings). g from Ko Samui. ,P n Park HQ (0-7728-6025). 8B:BJ ¢ Nov–Dec. &

,P )JOEBC KEY Beach ,P ,P 1BF:BU Dive site 8VBLBOUBOH Ko Sam Sao - This tiny island is a favorite Watersports with divers and snorkelers, Viewpoint ,P4BN4BP offering the best coral reefs Ferry service ,P in the whole park. .BF,P Visitor information The Stone Bridge at Ko Sam Trail Sao is a natural formation Ferry route ,P1IJ popular with sea-kayakers.

1BSL)2 - Thale Nai Crater Lake

. Tham Bua Bok Cave A strenuous hike leads to ,P8VB +O3AMUI MILES this cave near the summit 5BMBC KM of Ko Wua Talab. Its interior is filled with stalactites and stalagmites which resemble lotus flowers giving the cave its name – Bua Bok, meaning Waving Lotus.

. Ko Wua Talab Viewpoint Located at the summit of this island, this viewpoint is at the end of a fairly difficult trek. However, it offers stunning views of the green islands rising out of the waters of the Ang Thong archipelago. Ko Wua Talab also has basic ,P.PE %BOH bungalow accommodations for visitors to the park.

,P1IBMVBJ Boat trips These operate in good weather between Ko Samui, Ko Phangan (see pp172–7), and Ang Thong. Some tours are specifically for divers and snorkelers while other more expensive options offer overnight accommodations. ,P,MVBJ 182 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Tao 7 on a large rock here, called the Rama V boulder. This site U TSU2tT has since been venerated, Picturesquely located in the midst of the Gulf of especially by locals. Thailand, north of Ko Phangan (see pp172– L Hat Sai Ri 7), Ko Tao is the smallest of the three main LT14FTEF islands in the Samui archipelago. While the 1 mile (2 km) N of Ban Mae Hat. island itself is rugged, with dense forest 0 = inland, quiet coves along the east coast, and a An idyllic beach, perfect for fine sweep of sandy beach on the western admiring spectacular sunsets side, the surrounding sea offers excellent over the Gulf of Thailand, Hat Sai Ri is the longest stretch of Visitor on underwater visibility, a wide range of dive motorcycle sandy beach on Ko Tao. It is sites, and a variety of coral and marine life. framed to the east by swaying The Chumphon Pinnacle (see p23), 7 miles coconut palms, an increasing (11 km) northwest of Ko Tao, is among the best dive number of small restaurants, sites in the area with known sightings of the gray reef bars, and simple bungalow shark. Ko Tao is also a significant breeding ground for accommodations. The beach hawksbill and green turtles. is paralleled by a narrow surfaced path and, slightly fur- ther inland, by a small paved road leading to the settlement of Ban Hat Sai Ri. Once a tiny fishing village, it now serves as a service center for the fast growing local tourism industry with dive centers, travel agents, and small super- markets; there are even ATMs and Internet cafés. Beyond the beach, the surfaced road continues to the upscale Dusit Buncha Resort (see p304) and Nangyuan Terrace. Beyond this point, the road ends in steep cliffs and jungle. Longtail and speedboats anchored along Hat Ao Mae } Ko Nang Yuan Ban Mae Hat for those who wish to explore U TS6T$EH6 7†T6VD€LT1 the island for a day or two 2 miles (3 km) N of Ban Mae Hat. 0 = before making a choice of 4 from Ban Mae Hat. & 8 The unofficial capital of Ko resort or beach bungalow. 0 = Tao, Ban Mae Hat is one of Perhaps the most beautiful the few large settlements on L Hat Ao Mae natural formation off Ko Tao, the island. A small, pleasant LT1N€THVD Ko Nang Yuan is a group of fishing village that is now 0 = three islets linked by a narrow being rapidly transformed Located in a shallow bay, a causeway of white sand. The into a small tourist town, Ban short distance north of the smallest among them is also Mae Hat houses various facili- Ban Mae Hat ferry pier, and known as Japanese Garden. ties and services – banks, perhaps too close to the vil- This spectacular location is clinics, and pharmacies, lage for visitors seeking a easily reached by ferry and Internet cafés, a post office, tranquil holiday, Hat Ao Mae police station, and supermar- is a small beach. Nevertheless, kets. It becomes all the more it is well equipped with a important because of the comfortable resort, the Montra, main ferry pier from which a offering convenient access to surfaced road leads inland to Ban Mae Hat to the south and Ao Chalok Ban Kao on the the beautiful Hat Sai Ri to the southern coast. The town is north – both within easy large enough to offer a reason- walking distance of the able selection of accommoda- beach. The area is also tions, the best dining facilities famous locally for Laem Jor on the island, as well as a few Por Ror, or the Rama V Cape, Irish pubs, pool tables, and a historically relevant site – video and sports bars with on June 18, 1899, Rama V wide-screen televisions. Motor- (r.1868–1910) visited Ko Tao Utility market offering ATMs and cycles are available for hire and left his monogram carved other facilities, Hat Sai Ri

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO TAO 183

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map C3. 25 miles (40 km) N of Ko Phangan. * 5,000. g from Ko Phangan. n TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818).

although visitors can either take a boat or follow the nar- row, unpaved track that leads east across the hump of the island from Ban Hat Sai Ri, forking to the north toward the beach. The bay is framed Sparkling, azure waters surrounding the islets of Ko Nang Yuan by two beautiful capes – Nam Dok to the west and Grachom makes a popular sunbathing L Ao Mamuang Fai (equipped with a light- and swimming day trip. Strict N€THDSD€H$ house) to the east. Although regulations are in force to 3 miles (5 km) NE of Ban Mae Hat. quite isolated, it is comfort- protect the environment and 4 0 = ably appointed, and a great no cans, plastic bags, or bot- Located on the northernmost place to relax. tles are permitted. Visitors shore of Ko Tao, Ao Mamuang, have to pay a nominal fee to or Mango Bay, is a long, L Ao Hinwong land, although full-day all- lovely, cove backed with lush N€THL^6H$ inclusive tours, complete with greenery. It has a shallow off- 4 miles (6 km) NE of Ban Mae Hat. a picnic lunch, snorkeling, or shore reef which usually 4 0 = diving can be arranged at one draws snorkelers on day trips Located on the northeastern of the many travel agencies in from Ban Mae Hat and else- shore of Ko Tao, well away Ban Mae Hat. The islands are where on the island. There is from the bustle of Ban Mae administered by the Nangy- a small beach here, as well as Hat, Ao Hinwong is a delight- uan Island Dive Resort (see comfortable bungalow accom- ful, isolated cove, surrounded p303), and visitors staying modations, restaurants, and by charming coconut groves here receive free transfers to bars. Getting to Ao Mamuang, and large boulders. Best and from the mainland. however, is not so easy reached by boat, Ao Hinwong can also be approached by a narrow track across the island $IVNQIPO /BN%PL from Ban Hat Sai Ri. The track, "P ,P5BP .BNVBOH "OEBNBO however, is only suitable for ,P/BOH 4FB ,P1IBOHBO motorcycles, rugged pickups, :VBO (SBDIPN 'BJ or vehicles with 4WD. 4VSBU5IBOJ (VMGPG 5IBJMBOE +BQBOFTF Despite its isolation, it is -PXFS8FTUFSO (BSEFO (VMG$PBTU becoming popular with visitors to Ko Tao, as it offers two comfortable resorts and a bungalow complex. Its appeal "P)JOXPOH lies in its overwhelming peace, and the clear, and sheltered )BU4BJ3J waters of the beautiful bay, #HUMPHON MILESKM #BO)BU with dark shoals of sardines 4BJ3J clearly visible from above. A -BFN+PS "P.BP hill to the north offers great 1PS3PS 3URAT4HANI ,05"0 ocean views. Ao Hinwong is MILESKM -BFN an ideal spot for snorkeling +O0HANGAN )BU"P.BF 5IJBO MILESKM )BU"P "P and diving enthusiasts. -BFN)JO 5BOPU 5BOPU 4BO$PO #BO.BF)BU KEY "P+BOTPN Beach "P 4BJ/VBO Dive site "P-FVL -BFN+FEB Viewpoint (BOH Ferry service )BU4BJ%BFOH "P$IBMPL #BO,BP "P5IJBO Minor road 0L - 4IBSL 0 km 1 Trail -BFN5BUP *TMBOE 0 mile 1 Ferry route 184 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Sandy cove at Ao Tanot dotted with roofs of resort buildings

L Laem Thian coast of Ko Tao, its appeal and offers a variety of outdoor VLGDU4 E6 lies in its relative inaccessibili- activities. Visitors can go sea- 4 miles (6 km) E of Ban Mae Hat. ty. Large boulders lie scattered kayaking, water-skiing, and 4 0 = across Hat Ao Tanot, as do a windsurfing, all of which can An isolated cape located large variety of seashells. The be easily arranged through almost midway down the primary activity here is snor- any one of the several resorts deserted east coast of Ko Tao, keling and snorkeling enthu- on the beach. Sunbathing and Laem Thian is a tiny water- siasts can hire equipment swimming are other options. body with a white, sandy from the dive shops nearby. There are beautiful coral reefs beach. Sheltered in the south- There are several good offshore, and snorkeling in ern lee of a rocky head- resorts and simple bunga- the clear waters is another land, it is best reached low accommodations, as delightful pastime. Despite its by boat, although well as a dive school, reputation, the waters off the there is a treacher- and small, attractive bay are quite safe, with the ous dirt track that terrace bars set only shark sighted being the crosses the center against colorful inoffensive blacktip. Both of the island. The groves of bougain- accommodation options and northern branch of Bougainvillea, a villea. Ao Tanot can dining facilities are good, as this track leads to Ao common shrub also be reached by a are the few inviting bars. Mamuang and Ao southern track leading Hinwong, and the southern inland and over the moun- L Hat Sai Daeng branch to Laem Thian. Among tainous spine of Ko Tao from LT14FTEV1$ the more popular sites for the Ban Mae Hat-Ao Chalok 3 miles (5 km) SE of Ban Mae Hat. snorkeling enthusiasts on Ko surfaced road. 4 0 = Tao, Laem Thian is well An attractive and unspoiled known for its underwater tun- L Ao Leuk white sands beach, backed by nels and swim-through pas- N€THG_ a narrow peninsula jutting sages. Made of limestone, 3 miles (5 km) SE of Ban Mae Hat. into the warm waters of the they are easy to navigate. The 0 = Gulf of Thailand, Hat Sai area is also known for fre- Located close to Ko Tao’s Daeng is located along the quent sightings of the exotic south-easternmost point, Ao busier and more accessible unicorn fish. Comfortable Luek has among the most southern coast of Ko Tao. The bungalows and other basic beautiful beaches on Ko Tao beach, also known as Red facilities are available on the beach here.

L Ao Tanot N€THY261 4 miles (6 km) E of Ban Mae Hat. 4 0 = A small, horsehoe-shaped bay facing east across the Gulf of Thailand, Ao Tanot is a beauti- ful setting, well known for its vistas of fine sunrises. Just south of Laem Thian, and clearly visible across Ao Tanot is the isolated and beautiful beach, Hat Ao Tanot. As with the other beaches on the east Kayakers rowing across the waters off Shark Island, Hat Sai Daeng

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 KO TAO 185

Sands Beach, points directly at the popular diving and snorkeling site around tiny, unpopulated Shark Island, which is also known as Ko Chalam. Hat Sai Daeng offers good views across the sea, lying in the shelter of a mangrove-covered headland. The beach has adequate bungalow accommodations, restaurants, and bars. It is easily approached by a nar- row, seldom-used track run- ning east from the main Mae Hat-Ao Chalok road, which is usable the year round. However, visitors should be careful to avoid using the Enjoying a relaxed evening at a beachside shack, Ao Chalok Ban Kao smaller tracks which are quite dangerous, and even impassa- as enjoy the usual maritime the beach. As a result, the ble, during heavy rains. activities – swimming, snor- beach is equipped with several keling, and diving in the dive shops, travel agents, surrounding waters. guesthouses, decent restau- rants, and bars. In the center L Ao Chalok Ban Kao of Laem Tato, Jon Suwan N€THY&G 7†T6U €T Mountain Viewpoint offers 1 miles (2 km) S of Ban Mae Hat. fine views across the deeply 0 = indented bay and the The largest, most developed, surrounding wooded hills. and best-appointed beach resort on Ko Tao, Ao Chalok L Ao Sai Nuan Ban Kao is sheltered by Laem N€THKTE6HG Tato on the east and Laem 0 = Jeda Gang on the west. Easily A group of sandy coves accessible by a good, if nar- fringed by tall palms and row, road from Ban Mae Hat, warm, azure waters, come this beautiful bay is protected together to form this attractive by forest-clad hills during spot. Ao Sai Nuan, a short Beautiful, rocky beachfront backed both the northeast and south- distance southwest of Ban by thick foliage, Hat Sai Daeng west monsoons. The bay is Mae Hat, is really a southern home to three separate, but extension of the village and is L Ao Thian Ok closely-linked beaches – characterized by a string of N€THU4 E6NN Freedom Beach, to the south- bungalows and several upscale 2 miles (3 km) SE of Ban Mae Hat. east, Hat Chalok in the center, resorts. Backed and sheltered 0 = and smaller Hat San Jao to the by a densely-wooded 620-ft The southernmost bay on the west. Ao Chalok Ban Kao is (189-m) high mountain, the island, Ao Thian Ok has one among the biggest dive cent- bay offers mesmerizing vistas of the prettiest beaches in Ko ers on Ko Tao with a large of picture-perfect sunsets Tao. It is sheltered on the east number of divers, snorkelers, across the Gulf of Thailand. by the Hat Sai Daeng head- and keen anglers frequenting Good for diving and snor- land and Shark Island, and to keling, there are several spots the west by the much larger from which enthusiasts can headland of Laem Tato. plunge into the waters around Despite being frequented by Laem Jeda Gang and Laem reef sharks, the waters off Ao Hin San Con. The ease of Thian Ok are very popular accessibility makes Ao Sai with divers. The beach offers Nuan a popular spot with vis- luxurious spa accommoda- itors to Ko Tao. It can be tions as well as a few reason- approached on foot or motor- ably priced bungalows, a cycle from Ban Mae Hat, series of bars with spectacular although it is advisable to ocean views, and some of the avoid four-wheeled best restaurants on the island. vehicles. Various facilities Visitors can also take courses including dive shops, restau- in Thai massage, yoga, and rants, and bars combine to chi gong (a component of Sunbathing on the white, sandy make any visit to Ao Sai Nuan Chinese martial arts) as well beach, Ao Thian Ok a pleasant experience. 186 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

area is rich in natural beauty as it is located near a string of lovely beaches sheltered by limestone mountains. These outcrops are riddled with several caves; Khao Wang Thong Cave is the most significant among them. Located about 9 miles (14 km) from Khanom town, it has unusual stalagmite and stalactite formations. With the Samui archipelago (see pp162–71) becoming more congested, Ao Khanom is being developed as the next Open-air restaurant at a beach resort, Hat Na Dan big holiday destination. There is also a growing Hat Khanom 8 of Ko Noi, Ko Wang Nai, Ko diving and snorkeling indus- Wang Nok, Ko Tan, Ko Rap, try in this area, and tour LT1!6ND Ko Tha Rai, and Ko Phi. Hat operators can organize over- Khanom is to the north of night stays or day trips to the Road map C4. 56 miles (90 km) Khanom town, a small coastal nearby islands. They also E of Surat Thani. @ n TAT, settlement dating back to the arrange fishing trips to the Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534- Ayutthaya period (see pp40– Gulf of Thailand. This bay is 6515). 0 = 41). Originally a major trading a popular spot for sea golf and cultural center, Khanom which takes place between A long and attractive beach, is today a tranquil and sleepy April and July. During this Hat Khanom is a part of the fishing town. Coconut and time locals organize golf largest bay in the region. rubber plantations provide tournaments on the exposed However, despite being easily the main source of livelihood flat sands of the seabed as accessible by road, it does not apart from fishing. It has a the water drains out almost feature on most itineraries. few restaurants, cottages, and completely during low tide. The beach is also the center a single hotel. However, most for the recently established visitors prefer the beaches, Hat Khanom-Mu Ko Thale Tai especially as they also offer National Park which covers a wider range of accommo- mainland areas in the districts dations right by the sea, of Khanom and Sichon, as ranging from luxurious resorts well as the offshore islands to homely bungalows. The

PINK DOLPHINS OF SICHON AND KHANOM One of the unusual attractions of the Sichon-Khanom coast is the pod of rare pink dolphins that lives in the shallow waters of the Gulf of Thailand just offshore. It is usually Limestone mountains forming a possible to see these friendly and intelligent creatures by scenic backdrop to Khanom town boat. The best time to view these mammals is between October and April. Formally known as Chinese White Dolphins, the adults of the species are usually grey or Hat Na Dan 9 white in color. The much rarer pink variety is found here LT1L6†T1€T6 and on the South China coast. Unfortunately, this dolphin is threatened by over-fishing in both areas and is now Road map C4. 6 miles (10 km) officially protected by the government. S of Hat Khanom. @ n TAT, Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534- 6515). 0 =

Moving southward along the coastline from Hat Khanom, is the pristine Hat Na Dan. This is a long, curving, white sand beach fringed by coconut palms and washed by the warm aquamarine waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Although this beach is only A pink dolphin and its calf swimming along the water’s surface half an hour away by boat from Ko Samui, it is not very

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 187

popular with foreign visitors. There is little by way of facilities, although there are a few beach vendors who sell local specialties such as dried squid. However, the pristine nature of the beach is changing with the arrival of sprawling resorts. The calm bay is good for swimming but there are no coral reefs. It is as yet undisturbed by the noise or pollution of jet skis and watersports. However, it is only a matter of time before it becomes a commercial spot.

Hat Nai Phraet 0 LT1X6VAF1 Rustic beach bungalows with tiled roofs at Hat Nai Phraet Road map C4. 2 miles (3 km) S of Hat Na Dan. @ n TAT serving local food and cold Thailand to the east, and the Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534- drinks. There are also some forest-clad hills of the Khao 6515). 0 = basic bungalows right by the Luang range to the west, beach for an overnight stay. creating an idyllic setting. Lying immediately to the However, most travelers make This beach offers basic and south of Hat Na Dan, Hat Nai their way to the busier town affordable bungalow accom- Phraet is a gorgeous, long, of Khanom, for more options. modations and campsites. and curving beach that is There are also a couple of almost deserted, especially on simple restaurants and bars q weekdays. This peaceful spot Hat Nai Phlao offering local seafood del- has been drawing locals for LT1X6UAFT icacies along with beer or years, but remains relatively iced drinks. A few upscale unknown to foreign visitors. Road map C4. 3 miles (5 km) resorts have also come up in The beach is composed of S of Hat Na Dan. @ n TAT recent years. Travel agencies crisp, golden sand backed by Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534- are also developing water- coconut palms and casuarina 6515). 0 = sports facilities such as trees. There are some large snorkeling and fishing. boulders strewn about the Located south of Hat Nai Visitors can take longtail beach that add to the Phraet, Hat Nai Phlao is the boats to the nearby islands, ambience and natural beauty, longest beach in the Khanom or hike to pretty Nam Tok as well as provide some district and its most popular Hin Lat along a 2-mile (3-km) shade from the midday attraction – although most long trail that winds its way sun. Facilities are minimal, visitors are local Thais on a through a scene of rural although there are a few weekend break. The beach tranquility, surrounded by simple beachside restaurants is bordered by the Gulf of lush vegetation.

Waves washing over the expansive sandy shore, Hat Nai Phlao 188 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

accommodations and restaurants have set up shop here. Beautiful Hat Sichon, also known as Hat Hua Hin Sichon, is distinguished by large numbers of rocky boulders strewn along the white sand, and is popular with locals, just like its namesake Hat Hua Hin (see p140). Tall palms fringe the beach, while the small pier is lined with colorful longtail fishing boats. Hat Sichon is also a regular swimming spot, but those looking for somewhere even quieter could move south- ward to pretty Hat Piti. Visitors wishing to get away from regular beach activities can also head to the scenic Nam Tok Si Khit, or Si Khit Falls, some 10 miles (16 km) inland from Hat Sichon, along Highway 4105. The Si Khit River originates in the Khao Luang Mountains to the west and flows through gorgeous natural surroundings before reaching these falls. Securing Breathtaking Hat Tong Yi in an idyllic tropical setting the area as a protected natio- nal park site is currently Hat Tong Yi w with local flavors can find under consideration. simple yet exotic seafood LT14wN$LE specialties such as r or grilled squid, nearby. Hat Hin Ngam Road Map C4. 25 miles (40 km) LT1L^6$TD S of Hat Nai Phlao. @ n TAT, e Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534- Hat Sichon Road Map C4. 2 miles (3 km) S of 6515). 0 = LT1K^'G Hat Sichon. @ n TAT, Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534-6515). A slender stretch of sand, Road Map C4. 1 miles (2 km) S of beautiful Hat Tong Yi is a Hat Tong Yi. @ n TAT, Nakhon Si Covered with small rocks and little known beach, completely Thammarat (0-7534-6515). 0 = boulders of various colors cut off from other beaches to which give the beach its its north and south by thick, Little more than a fishing name, Hat Hin Ngam, or wooded headlands. This village, Sichon is still a small Beach of Beautiful Stones, is picture perfect beach is settlement and port. In recent best visited as a day trip from accessed by following a years, however, it has seen nearby Hat Sichon. A good rough laterite road from some development and basic place for diving and Hat Nai Phlao’s (see p187) Rachakiri Resort for about 2 miles (3 km). However, the journey is worth the trouble, especially when welcomed by the sheer isolation of the beach. Simple accommo- dations are available at wHat Tong Yi, but most visitors choose to stay at better- appointed Hat Nai Phlao to the north, visiting the beach only as a day trip. There are very few facilities available at the beach, so bringing along a picnic basket is advisable. Those keen to experiment Busy pier at Hat Sichon, lined with fishing boats

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 189

Unspoiled sweeping bay of Hat Hin Ngam snorkeling, Hat Hin Ngam is there are no facilities available opened for public viewing. pretty quiet with no accommo- and visitors should head to Khao Kha appears to be a dation options or restaurants nearby Sichon in the north for predominantly Hindu site, so bringing along food and accommodations and restau- formerly sacred to the water is advisable. rants serving local Thai as Saiwinikai sect which was well as other cuisine. known to worship as the supreme deity of the Hindu pantheon. The site has Khao Kha revealed several monuments Archaeological with the most important of them being located at its y Site northern end. Many interes- VLGn$Y7FT0"1pU!T"T ting artifacts from Saivite rituals including lingas Road Map C4. Tambon Sao Phao, (symbolic phalluses), a sacred 6 miles (10 km) S of Hat Piti. @ tank, holy water pipes, and n TAT, Nakhon Si Thammarat other related ruins, have also (0-7534-6515). # 9am–4pm. been excavated. These relics ¢ Mondays. have now been preserved in a bungalow-like building, Located on a mountain in the located near the site, and are Thatched shelter providing shade Tambon Sao Phao district, the also maintained by the Fine from the tropical sun at Hat Piti Khao Kha Archaeological Site Arts Department. Even today, dates back almost 1,500 years. archaeologists continue to Hat Piti t An ancient city with a laterite study the numerous artifacts shrine, the site was restored unearthed here in relation to LT18^2^ in 1997 by the Thai Fine Arts the once-popular Hindu Department before it was Saivite sect. Road Map C4. 1 mile (2 km) S of Hat Hin Ngam. @ n TAT, Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534-6515). 0 =

A favorite with locals who frequent the beach for its beauty and relative anony- mity, Hat Piti is now witness- ing a rise in the number of foreign visitors to its shores. Blessed with a white sandy beach and rows of coconut palms that provide adequate shade, the beach is a great place to sunbathe. Swimming and watersports such as windsurfing, albeit limited, are other options. However, Building housing relics from the Khao Kha Archaeological Site 190 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Hat Sa Bua i wide variety of tropical flora LT1KFS7H and fauna, and provides sanctuary to several endan- Road Map C4. 24 miles (39 km) N gered species. of Nakhon Si Thammarat. @ n Animals inhabiting the park TAT, Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534- include musk deer, Malaysian 6515). 0 = tapir, binturong, and serow. Park authorities have also A picturesque beach, about identified more than 200 3 miles (5 km) long and species of birds, including dotted with lovely coconut both permanent residents and groves, Hat Sa Bua is a migratory species. The flora in favorite weekend resort for the park is tropical, dense, locals. Just north of Nakhon, and magnificent with colorful Local fisherwoman drying shrimps the road to the beach winds orchids and rhododendrons. near the waterfront, Hat Saophao through pleasant rural The most popular attraction scenery, past small fishing of the park is the nine-tiered villages and rustic kilns used Krung Ching Waterfall, u Hat Saophao for firing bricks and pottery. accessible by a steep 3-mile LT1UKTUCT Tamarisks and palm trees (5-km) trek from the park shade stretches of sandy entrance. Overnight accommo- Road Map C4. Tha Sala, Hwy 401, shoreline, while thatched dations are available in the 36 miles (60 km) N of Nakhon Si umbrellas provide cool, park, as are camping facilities. Thammarat. @ n TAT, Nakhon Si shaded sanctuaries. There are Thammarat (0-7534-6515). 0 = simple bungalow accommo- dations available, along with Perfect for a pleasant day trip numerous small bars and from nearby Nakhon Si seafood restaurants, which Thammarat (see pp192–5), are quite reasonably priced. Hat Saophao is a long, often deserted strip of sand. Devoid of the regular tourist influx, Khao Luang this beautiful beach continues o to be a safe haven for National Park holiday-makers looking for Ni4ET6VL€€$'T2^U!TLGH$ some peace and quiet. The Cascading waters of the nine-tier beach is equipped with small Road Map C4. Park HQ off Hwy Krung Ching Waterfall restaurants and cafés aimed 4015, 28 miles (45 km) NW of chiefly at the locals. Further Nakhon Si Thammarat. @ n Park p inland are vast shrimp farms HQ (0-7530-9047). & 0 Laem Talumphuk and tiny, predominantly Thai VLGD2SGiDAi Muslim villages. Visitors will One of the largest and least find Muslim kitemakers developed national parks in Road Map C4. 14 miles (22 km) selling their wares – beautiful, southern Thailand, Khao E of Nakhon Si Thammarat. @ colored kites – on the road Luang covers an area of 230 n TAT, Nakhon Si Thammarat between Nakhon and Hat sq miles (596 sq km). Declared (0-7534-6515). 0 = Saophao. The beach is best a national park in 1974, Khao reached by local bus from Luang surrounds the region’s A long and narrow cape Nakhon Si Thammarat or by main peak, Khao Luang, facing Nakhon Si Thammarat motorcycle taxi, and draws which is 6,020 ft (1,835 m) to the east, Laem Talumphuk mainly young backpackers. high. The park is home to a is a popular haven for local fishing vessels. The coast at this point is divided into two sections where the Phanang River runs down to Ao Nakhon from the mountains nearby. The eastern shore is inhabited in places with small fishing villages and shrimp farms, as well as a long, beautiful beach, fringed with towering palm trees. Although an area of great natural beauty, the beach here has limited facilities beyond a few small shops and restaurants, and is best visited as a day trip from A typical fishing settlement close to Hat Sa Bua Nakhon Si Thammarat.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 191

Shadow Puppets An art form said to have originated as They remain an essential, although early as 400 BC in Southeast Asia, diminishing, part of village life in nang talung is a popular southern southern Thailand. It is the task of Thai version of puppetry that a single skilled person, the nai originated in Phatthalung. Light nag (puppet master) to concept- is shone behind the puppets, ualize the whole show. While creating shadows on a cloth the more formal nang yai is screen, giving it the name “shadow based on traditional stories from puppets”. Often compared with the Ramakien (see p59), nang A nang talung wayang kulit, shadow puppetry puppet talung often takes its inspiration in neighboring Malaysia, nang from daily life. Each story is talung performances generally begin created by the nai nag and includes after dark and last well into the night. easily recognizable characters.

Illuminated cloth screens are used to The nai nag, maneuvres up to Musicians accompany the nai nag reflect the shadow of the puppets six puppets per screen in nang talung performances

NANG TALUNG THEATER Theater performances of nang talung are held in large open spaces. The changing tone of voice of the puppet master, who manipulates the puppets through complex movements from behind the screen, differentiates between the characters. A traditional orchestra adds tension to the plot.

Nang (water buffalo leather) is cut, colored, and rendered movable by joints to make the 20-inch (50-cm) high shadow puppets. This is highly skilled work and done only by master craftsmen.

Nang talung, small- er shadow puppets, portray comic fig- ures with exaggerated Ramakien stories, depicted features. From demons through nang yai or large and heroes to farm- shadow puppets, are adapted ers, these characters from the original epic. Here, play a central role , the monkey god, is in performances. usually given a prominent role. 192 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Nakhon Si Thammarat a 6"FJF 5FFDFT' Although the historic town of Nakhon Si Thammarat features on few tourist itineraries, the cultural capital of southern Thailand is a lively center with several attractions. Under the name of Ligor, it is said to have been the capital of Tambralinga prior to the 7th century. From the 7th–13th centuries, it was an important city of the Srivijaya Empire (see p39) when it became a religious center with the Sanskrit Silver name Nagara Sri Dhammaraja, meaning City figurine of the Sacred Dharma King. Many Indian traders settled here and Hindu shrines are common, as are nang talung (see p191) plays and Relaxing way of taking in the intricately etched nielloware (see p30). sights, Nakhon Si Thammarat

which may date back to the 6th century AD. The worship of Shiva was a potent force in the early peninsular city-states of the first millennium AD.

 Ho Phra Narai LNAFS6TFTE0g Ratchadamnoen Rd. # daily. Five lingas (phallic symbols) discovered on the site of this shrine may date from before AD 1000. They are now in the Wihan Kien Museum (see p195).

Delicately carved southern Thai wooden house, Wat Sao Thong Tong  Ho Phra Buddha Sihing LNAFSAi45K^L^$"g  Wat Sao Thong Tong the 14th and again in the 17th Ratchadamnoen Rd. # Wed–Sun. Hk1UKT5$4N$ century. The red brick North The Phra Buddha Sihing is Ratchadamnoen Rd. # daily. Gate is a reconstruction of the one of Thailand’s most The main attraction of Wat original gate. revered images. The replica Sao Thong Tong is the south- kept in this shrine is of an ern Thai wooden house,  Ho Phra I-suan original cast in Sri Lanka in started in 1888 and finished LNAFSN^JHF AD 157 and brought to in 1901. The wat now occu- Ratchadamnoen Rd. # daily. Nakhon at the end of the 13th pies the area which had earlier In the hall of this shrine is a century. Local artisans put housed the first primary 3-ft (1-m) linga, a phallic their characteristic stamp on school in the district. It is image of the Hindu god Shiva, the Buddha by giving it a half actually three houses joined together by a common pointed roof and features delicately carved wooden door panels, gables, and window surrounds. The Architects’ Association of Thailand gave a conservation award to the building in 1993.

T Ancient City Wall and North Gate VA$UDN$U tT E of Ratchadamnoen Rd. The ancient city wall, built as a , originally con- tained an area which was 1,320 ft by 7,350 ft (402 m by 2,240 m). It was restored in Reconstructed Ancient City Wall and North Gate

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 NAKHON SI THAMMARAT 193

smile, a rounder face, and a VISITORS’ CHECKLIST full chest. This style has a special name – khanom tom, Road Map C4. 89 miles or banana and rice pudding. (144 km) SE of Surat Thani. It is similar to Buddha images * 147,000. ~ 9 miles (14 km) in Wat Phra Sing in Chiang N of Nakhon Si Thammarat. £ Mai in northern Thailand. c n TAT, Sanam Na Muang, Ratchadamnoen Rd, Nakhon Shadow Puppet Theater Si Thammarat (0-7534-6516). 7T6L6k$2SGi$Ki'T2^` ( daily. _ Tenth Lunar Month 10/18 Si Thammasok Soi 3. Festival (Sep/Oct). Tel 0-7534-6394. # daily. & The nang talung workshop of puppeteer Suchart Subsin Buddha image in characteristic local Dong Son people of northern keeps alive a uniquely South- style, Ho Phra Buddha Sihing Vietnam are another highlight. east Asian form of entertain- The Thai gallery displays reli- ment in danger of dying out. of South India. It was found gious art from the Dvaravati Visitors can watch the pup- in the base of a tree in Kapong and Srivijaya periods to the pets being cut from leather district near Takua Pa in Phang Rattanakosin era. The Buddha and buy the finished product. Nga province, then a major images in the distinctive local Sometimes impromptu shows transit point for Indians colo- Sing style, characterized by are also staged. nizing the south. Two rare stumpy features and animated bronze drums made by the faces, are also worth a visit.  Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan Hk1AFSDLT5T2i See pp194–5.

 National Museum Nakhon Si Thammarat A^A^5Ck0.K3T6VLt$'T2^6"FJF 5FFDFT' Ratchadamnoen Rd, 1 mile (2 km) S of town center. Tel 0-7534-1075. # Wed–Sun. & 8 The centerpiece of this branch of the National Museum (see p62) is the 9th-century statue of Vishnu, part of the Hindu holy trinity, in the Pala style Imposing façade and grounds, National Museum, Nakhon Si Thammarat

"JSQPSU NAKHON SI THAMMARAT TOWN CENTER NJMFT LN Ancient City Wall and Ho Phra I-suan 3 1 ) " 5 ) North Gate 2 Ho Phra Narai 4 " / " 5 6 . , Ho Phra Buddha Sihing Shadow Puppet Theater 6 " ) / /  , ,*5 0 ) Wat Phra Mahathat .$ "5 ) 6 ,  , 8 8 Woramahawihan 7 "," /( " . / ,/" " ( Wat Sao Thong Tong 1 1" #0)

"5 *

8BU4BP "/ 5IPOH5POH 3 1) 1 ) " 5 " 4 *  5 ) $ 13 " ) / :0 "% "5 " .." , 5SBJO " "ODJFOU$JUZ8BMM " 4UBUJPO 3 ./ / "5 BOE/PSUI(BUF  , 0&/ ) 6  , 8 5) )P1ISB " -POHEJTUBODF " /(". / $) /BSBJ ( #VT4UBUJPO " ( /( / " / ,"30. )P1ISB *TVBO 4 * ,I )P1ISB 5) " MP 4IBEPX OH #VEEIB4JIJOH .." 5B 4*5)" 1VQQFU5IFBUFS 8 4 BO . 3"5 0 , H . " $) 3" " 5 %". /0 0 meters 500 8BU1ISB &/ .BIBUIBU 8PSBNBIBXJIBO 0 yards 500 /BUJPOBM.VTFVN /BLIPO4J5IBNNBSBU Key to Symbols see back flap NJMF LN 194 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan Hk1AFSDLT5T2i Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, or Temple of the Great Chedi, is one of the most revered temples in southern Thailand. It is believed to contain a sacred tooth relic of the Buddha. Legend says that Prince Thanakuman and Queen Hemchala brought this relic to Hat Sai Kaew and built a pagoda to mark its location. Later, in the 13th century when King Si Thammasokarat founded Nakhon Si Thammarat, he constructed a new temple and shifted the relic there. The buildings inside the wat are an amalgam of different Thai styles. The present wat has a Sri Lankan design and its chedi is an important Thai symbol, featuring on the provincial Offerings in front of Taksin’s statue outside the wat complex seal as well as the current 25 satang coin.

Royal Wihan

. Phra Chedi Boromathat The 247-ft (77-m) high Sri Lankan- style chedi houses the tooth relic. This structure is suppos- edly built over an Dharma Sala Wihan, in the older Srivijaya chedi, temple’s east wall, is dedicated Visitors’ and its spire is cov- to the study of Dhamma, or entrance ered in pure gold. teachings of the Buddha. 173 smaller chedis surround the Phra Chedi Boromathat and are repli- Wihan Tap Kaset cas of the central spire. Surrounding the main chedi is the Wihan Tap Kaset, STAR FEATURES a gallery with lines . Phra Chedi of golden Buddha images in varied Boromathat styles. The wihan . Royal Wihan is also decorated with statues of . Wihan Phra Song Ma elephant heads.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp300–4 and pp326–8 NAKHON SI THAMMARAT 195

. Royal Wihan VISITORS’ CHECKLIST South of the main chedi, and outside the cloister Ratchadamnoen Rd, Nakhon Si walls is a large ubosot, Thammarat. # dawn to dusk or ordination hall, called daily. & _ Chak Phra Pak Tai the Royal Wihan. It houses (Oct); Hae Pha Khuen That (Feb/ May). Wihan Kien Museum several Buddha images # 8am–4:30pm daily. & as well as a beautiful elephant figurine.

. Wihan Phra Song Ma An ornamental stairway located inside the Wihan Phra Song Ma leads to the most important part of the complex – the walkway around the chedi. It is decorated with figures from both Hindu and Buddhist mythology.

The Phra Rabieng Wihan is an elongated, cloistered gallery that surrounds the tem- ple on all sides, forming an outer wall or boundary. It shelters many precious gilt Buddha images.

A roof of glazed red and emerald green tiles protects the gallery.

Pho Lanka Wihan houses donated artifacts and reflects the wat’s ancient ties with Sri Lanka.

Statue of Ram and Sita A three-tier gilt umbrella Wihan Kien Museum shelters this statue of This is a small temple-museum Ram and Sita and repre- housing images, amulets, and sents Nakhon’s ancient other artifacts. It is located links with . next to Wihan Phra Song Ma.

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 197

UPPER ANDAMAN COAST

he abiding image of Thailand’s Upper Andaman Coast is of sandy beaches backed by swaying palms, a lush forested Tinterior, and hundreds of limestone outcrops rising dramatically out of azure waters. This region provides a multitude of options for travelers: from the pristine coral reefs of the Surin and Similan archipelagos to the luxurious comforts of Phuket, Thailand’s largest island and premier beach resort.

From the earliest times, both Thais The entire coastline is lined by and foreigners have been lovely beaches while the attracted to the Andaman Coast. hinterland is covered with Merchants and traders were virgin rain forests preserved drawn by its strategic position in national parks such as Khao Sok. on the spice route, prospectors The limestone stacks of Phang Nga came for the rich tin deposits, Bay are home to a variety of wildlife and visitors were attracted by while the waters of the Andaman Sea the outstanding natural beauty teem with rich marine life. This of the region. The ancient underwater landscape is best Srivijaya port at Takua Pa, and the visible at the Surin and Similan distinctive architecture of the Chinese Islands which offer unparalleled shophouses and the Sino-Portuguese diving opportunities. mansions of Phuket town reflect these This region is a melting pot of historical connections. towns populated by Thais of Tai and The Upper Andaman Coast is a ethnic Chinese descent, fishing prosperous and fertile region with villages inhabited by Thai Muslims rubber, cashew, banana, durian, and and a few communities of sea coffee plantations making it a prime gypsies, all of whom have enriched agricultural zone. Yet it also offers the cultural traditions of this region. urban facilities including designer Although the Upper Andaman Coast resorts, chic bars, and gourmet was badly affected by the tsunami in restaurants on the island of Phuket. 2004, it has recovered well.

Towering karst formations dominating the landscape at

Scuba diver exploring marine life around a colorful fan coral, Similan Islands 198 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Upper Andaman Coast Extending along the Andaman Sea, the Upper Andaman Coast is home to some of the most inviting beaches in Southeast Asia. The internationally renowned resort of Phuket serves as a good base for visitors to explore this region with its wide range of shopping, dining, entertainment, and watersports options. The stunning limestone stacks of Phang Nga are definitely worth a day trip, while the thickly forested hills of Khao Sok National Park and the man- groves of shelter a variety of birds and animals and are perfectly suited for nature lovers. The extensive sandy stretches along the Khao Lak coast form an idyllic retreat, and the Similan and Surin archipelagos are famous for their spectacular underwater landscape and rich marine life, making Devotees thronging outside San them a haven for divers and snorkelers. Chao Chui Tui temple in Phuket

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns, Cities, and Villages Beaches, Islands, Bays Khuraburi 0 and Estuaries Ranong 1 Hat Khao Lak t Takua Pa r Hat Praphat 9 SEE ALSO Khlong Thap Liang u National Parks • Where to Stay pp304–8 Ko Chang 2 Khao Sok National Park Ko Kam Noi 7 • Where to Eat pp328–31 pp206–7 e Ko Kam Yai 8 Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park y Ko Khang Khao 6 Khlong Nakha Wildlife Ko Phayam 3 Sanctuary 5 Phang Nga Bay pp212–17 o Laem Son National Park 4 Phuket pp220–39 p Mu Ko Ra- 0 km 25 National Park q Similan Islands Marine National 0 miles 25 Park pp210–11 i Surin Islands Marine National Park pp204–5 w

Visitors relaxing on one of the six beaches along Khao Lak coast

For additional map symbols see back flap UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 199

GETTING AROUND Most visitors make use of Phuket’s airport, and this island is the best base from which to explore the Upper Andaman Coast. Reliable air-conditioned bus services link Phuket, Phang Nga, and Ranong, although renting a car in Phuket or Ranong is more convenient. There is no railroad in the region. The Similan Islands are accessible from Phuket, #BOHLPL while the Surin archipelago can be reached by boat from Ranong, Khao Lak, and Khuraburi. Longtail boats are 3"/0/( )BU4PN1FO the easiest mode of transportation for exploring the 1BL/BN smaller bays and islands such as Phang Nga 4BQIBO1MB Bay and Ko Chang. ,0$)"/(

,01)":". 3BUDIB,SVU +AENG+RUNG ,IMPOH .ATIONAL0ARK -"&.40//"5*0/"-1"3, ,IPOH (AT"ANG"EN ,)-0/(/",)" ,BQPF 8*-%-*'&4"/$56"3: ,0,)"/(,)"0 ,0,".:"* ,0,"./0* 463*/*4-"/%4 )"513"1)"5 ."3*/&/"5*0/"-1"3, +HAO,ANG+HA4UK + FTM H #BO)JO-BU LO N G  9 A +O2A 5BLVL/FV N

+O ,)63"#63* .6,03",01)3"5)0/( +HAT /"5*0/"-1"3, #HIAW +O0HRA4HONG ,AN,AKE ,IJSJ3BU 5IVOH6OH 5BOJLIPN 2ACHABRAPHA !.$!-!. ,)"040, $AM /"5*0/"-1"3, 3%! /BN-PO 5",6"1" #BO5BLIVO 3PNNBOJ 1IBOPN )BU#BOH4BL #BOH1VBO )"5,)"0-", ,)"0-",-".36 ,BQPOH 4*.*-"/*4-"/%4 /"5*0/"-1"3, #BOH)PJ ."3*/&/"5*0/"-1"3, 5IBQ-BNV #BO5IVOH ,)-0/(5)"1-*"/( .BQISBP 3A.ANG-ANORA &OREST0ARK +HAO,AMPI(AT 1IBOH/HB 4HAI-UANG .ATIONAL0ARK 7AT4HAM #P 3UWAN+HUHA 5IBJ.VBOH 4BFO 2AMAN "P-VL (AT4HAI-UANG &OREST0ARK

,PL-PJ 1)"/(/(" /POH-VNQP -BFN4BL 5IB$IBU5BJ #": !O0HANG .GA .ATIONAL0ARK !O,UK )BU:BJ +O9AO.OI +O "ELE #BOH3POH 5IBMBOH +O9AO ,IMPOH#PO 9AI

KEY 1)6,&5 "P#PMF 1BUPOH Major road 1IVLFU 5PXO Minor road Railway line 3BXBJ

Peak 200 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ranong 1 FS6N$

Road Map B3. 351 miles (565 km) SW of Bangkok. * 175,000. c @ g 4 n TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728- 8818-9). 0 = The town was originally settled in the late 18th century by Chinese, who were hired to work as laborers in the region’s tin mines. The area grew rich, and Ranong became a major border town. From here Thai nationals can travel to Victoria Point in Myanmar on half- or full-day boat trips. Foreign nationals, however, are not allowed to go to Victoria Point without a visa. Referred to as by the Burmese, Ranong is well known for duty-free goods and handicrafts avail- able at bargain prices. Fishing boats, ideal for rowing around rustic Ko Chang Ranong’s main attractions are the Bo Nam Ron (Ranong Ko Chang 2 basic accommodations avail- Mineral Hot Springs) that rise able, or make trips to the by the Khlong Hat Sompen U TS'wT$ island’s tiny fishing village River at Wat Tapotaram, just capital for supplies. Visitors east of the town center. These Road Map B3. 15 miles (24 km) could, however, head for Hat are channeled into three SW of Ranong. g from Saphan Pla, Ao Yai, a white, sandy beach concrete tubs called Mother, Ranong. 4 0 = on the west coast of the Father, and Child. At an island, which is a great place average temperature of 65°C Located in the warm waters of to watch sunsets. Among the (150° F), the water is too hot the Andaman Sea, this idyllic prettiest beaches in the area, it for bathing. However, a short little island is much less devel- offers guesthouses for those walk down the river, the oped than its more famous who prefer to stay the night. Jansom Thara Spa Resort namesake on the Eastern Hotel has tapped and cooled Seaboard (see p118–19). 3 the water; visitors not staying There is little to do on Ko Ko Phayam at the hotel can also take a Chang but lie back and relax U TSAETD‰ spa bath for a nominal fee. in a beach bungalow, the Road Map B4. 21 miles (34 km) S of Ko Chang. @ from Saphan Pla. g from Ko Chang. 4 0 =

A picturesque island with a population of only 500 inhabitants, Ko Phayam offers reasonably priced bungalow accommodations, charming beachside restaurants, and the occasional sleepy bar. Locals earn their livelihood through prawn, crab, and squid fishing, or farming sator beans and cashewnuts. However, there is an abun- dance of flora and fauna with a wide variety of snakes, monkeys, and hornbills. Motorcycle taxis provide service on the island’s popular routes. The island offers few facilities – even electricity is Visitors washing around a hot spring tub, Wat Tapotaram switched off by 11pm.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 201

Laem Son southwest monsoon National Park 4 from June to September. Several other islands in Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^VLGDK6 the area including Ko Kam Yai, Ko Kam Noi Road Map B4. Park HQ off Hwy and Ko Khang Khao 4, 37 miles (60 km) S of Ranong. (see p202), are acces- c n Park HQ (0-7786-1431 or sible by longtail boat, 0-2562-0760 ). & 0 = which can easily be www.dnp.go.th arranged through the park office. Extending south from Kapoe It is also possible to district in to explore the fascinating Khuraburi district in Phang mangrove forests, home Nga province, Laem Son to crab-eating macaques, National Park, the sixth largest sea turtles, fishing national park in Thailand, eagles, wild boars, covers 122 sq miles white-bellied sea eagles, (316 sq km) of mangrove hawk-eagles, hornbills, swamps and forests, and and sandpipers. Statues at the entrance to Khlong Nakha around 63 miles (101 km) of the Andaman shoreline – the Khlong Nakha ox, Malayan , sambar longest protected shoreline in deer, and the common bark- Thailand. Established in 1983, Wildlife ing deer. Wild tigers and much of the park is undevel- Sanctuary 5 leopards are reported to roam oped and does not feature on the jungle interiors, but most most tourist itineraries. U!2F ITA65izK2Hz8€T"GN$6T"T visitors will be lucky to hear Laem Son, which is home more than a nighttime roar. to 138 different species of Road Map B4. Park HQ off Hwy 4, As with most national parks birds, has its headquarters 48 miles (77 km) S of Ranong. c in southern Thailand, it is best at Hat Bang Ben, the most & 0 = visited during the cool season attractive and accessible from November to February beach in the park. This Established in 1972 and avoided during the casuarina-lined beach and covering an area steamy southwest monsoon, has a few unpreten- of 205 sq miles (531 when leeches can become tious bungalows, but sq km), Khlong Nakha unwelcome companions for visitors can hire tents Wildlife Sanctuary is trekkers. A popular trekking and camp beneath the one of Thailand’s older destination within the sanc- shady trees. Swimming is and larger national tuary is the Nam Tok Phan good and safe all year Malayan reserves. However, it is Met, or One-thousand-meter round – although it is a sun bear relatively less fre- Waterfall, set amid verdant good idea to approach quented. Wildlife here rain forest. However, it is the Andaman Coast with includes some large mammals advisable to make reservations caution, especially during the such as the Asiatic elephant, at least a month in advance height of the wet and stormy serow, Malaysian tapir, , before visiting the park.

Longtail boat waiting to carry passangers to the nearby islands, Laem Son National Park 202 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

The western coast is rocky, while the northeastern side has the sandy stretches. Grassy patches on the island can be used to pitch tents and fresh water is available. Visitors can also go snorkeling in the surrounding waters.

Ko Kam Yai 8 U TS XL*€

Road Map B4. 10 miles (16 km) SW of Hat Bang Ben. 4 from Hat Bang Ben. 0 =

Despite being fairly large and busy, Ko Kam Yai is quite laid- back. The island is almost completely encircled by white sand beaches. Lush, forested Navigating a motorized longtail boat off Ko Khang Khao hills provide plenty of bird- watching opportunities as a Ko Khang Khao 6 colorful corals just offshore, variety of migrating birds the underwater visibility is not make their way here especially U TS"wT$"TH very good due to proximity during the cool season from to inland rivers flowing into November to February. There Road Map B4. 6 miles (10 km) S the sea. Ko Khang Khao is a are also camping facilities and of Hat Bang Ben. 4 from Hat Bang perfect day trip from Hat Bang bungalow accommodations. Ben. 0 = Ben. The island is accessible Just 660 ft (201 m) away lies through the year, except the tiny island of Ko Tam Tok This remote island off the during the rainy season from which is connected to Ko Andaman Coast, south of Hat June to September. Kam Yai by a sandy strip that Bang Ben (see p201), was gets exposed at low tide. It earlier uninhabited and home can be easily reached by 7 to bats, resulting in its name – Ko Kam Noi swimming or taking a boat. Ko Khang Khao, meaning Bat U TS 6wiE Island. Located on its northern 9 coast is the beautiful Hat Hin Road Map B4. 11 miles (18 km) Hat Praphat Ngam, a white sand beach SW of Hat Bang Ben. 4 from Hat LT18FSATK strewn with colorful circular Bang Ben. pebbles. Ko Khang Khao is Road Map B4. 31 miles (50 km) S a verdant, untouched tropical Located offshore from Hat of Hat Bang Ben. c 0 = island where visitors can relax Bang Ben, Ko Kam Noi is a on the warm sands or go popular spot among campers. Located on the Andaman snorkeling in the shallow Uncluttered by commercial Coast, Hat Praphat has a long waters surrounding the island. infrastructure, this island is sandy frontage backed by Although there are some undisturbed in its serenity. graceful casuarinas and pines.

Scrub-covered rocks lining a stretch of pristine white sand at Ko Kam Yai

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 203

lovely and uninhabited island running about 6 miles (10 km) from north to south, and about 2 miles (3 km) from east to west. It is covered in dense rain forest which shelters many birds including several species of hornbill. There are some fine beaches along its western coast facing the Andaman Sea. This end of the island is usually deserted and can be reached either by longtail boats or sea kayaks. Visitors coming to Ko Ra on a rented boat should ensure that it is available for the return journey as well. Sea-kayaking is another alter- Fishing boat against the backdrop of the setting sun, Hat Praphat native, but novices should beware of potentially strong There are simple bungalow Mu Ko Ra-Ko Phra currents, particularly along accommodations as well as the west coast. There are no a few beach shacks serving Thong National permanent facilities here, so fresh seafood. This area Park q visitors are advised to carry suffered some damage during food and water. The hilly the 2004 tsunami, but has Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^LDj€U TSFS‰ terrain is ideal for trekking recovered well. Laem Son U TSAFS4N$ and the whole island can be National Park (see p201) has covered on foot. a second park office on Hat Road Map B4. 6 miles (10 km) W Unlike Ko Ra, Ko Phra Praphat, which is a nesting of Khuraburi. 4 from Khuraburi Thong has a handful of ground for sea turtles. pier. n Park HQ (0-7649-1378). inhabitants. The eastern part www.dnp.go.th of the island is covered with mangrove forests while 0 Khuraburi Covering an area of 248 sq beaches line the western "iFS7iF miles (642 sq km) on both part. Ko Phra Thong is being land and water, the Mu Ko developed as an eco-resort Road Map B4. 88 miles (142 km) Ra-Ko Phra Thong National with several resorts offering S of Ranong. c g 4 0 = Park was declared a protected accommodations. This island area in September 2000 amid is also home to the luxurious Well on the road to recovery much controversy and protest Golden Buddha Beach Resort after the 2004 tsunami, from the locals, especially, (see p305). A temporary park Khuraburi is a jumping-off fishermen who would lose office is also located on this point for the Surin archipelago their rights to fish in the sur- island and its beaches are a (see pp204–5) located 38 rounding rich waters. The nesting site for the giant miles (60 km) offshore. It is main islands within the park leatherback turtle. Other also the main ferry port for are Ko Phra Thong and Ko Ra. wildlife includes flying foxes the nearby Mu Ko Ra-Ko Phra Of the two, tiny Ko Ra is a and the occasional . Thong National Park. Set amid rubber, palm oil, and coconut plantations, this one-horse town is kept busy by coaches traveling along Highway 4 between Phuket, Ranong, and all points north of Bangkok. The town has adequate accommodations, a good selection of restaurants, and a few shops. Khuraburi also has some community-based tourism programs run by NGOs that allow visitors to experience and understand the culture and of the area. The funds raised from these initiatives are pumped back into the local economy. Visitors waiting for boats to the offshore islands, Khuraburi pier 204 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Surin Nua U TSKiF^64FzUL6N Ko Surin Nua, or Surin North Island, is the largest island of the Surin archipelago, and is heavily forested with tall hard- wood trees. The island has several bays, the largest being Ao Mae Yai. The surrounding sea offers an outstanding array of soft corals and frequent sightings of shovel-nose rays, bow-mouthed guitar fish, and whale sharks. Some of the best and most accessible dive sites are to be found off the Snorkeling in the clear waters off Ko Surin Nua park headquarters in the so- called HQ Channel between Surin Islands (200 m) wide. This strait the two main islands. The contains some of the most clear water makes diving or Marine spectacular coral reefs in the snorkeling quite redundant as National Park w Andaman Sea. The three the corals can easily be observ- smaller islands – Ko Ri, Ko ed from above. Although Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^LDj€U TSKiF^64Fz Kai, and Ko Klang – are mere excessive fishing and the 2004 rocky islets with sparse vege- tsunami have caused some Road Map B4. 38 miles (60 km) tation and remain uninhabited damage in the area, disturb- NW of Khuraburi. c g from even today. The islands boast ing its natural ecological Ranong, Khao Lak, and Khuraburi. rich marine life, as well as balance and leading to a slight 4 n Park HQ (0-7647-2145) sandy beaches, mangroves, depletion in marine life, the or Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760). and stretches of verdant rain damage has been minimal. # mid-Nov–mid-May. & 8 0 forest, that provide ample There are some excellent hik- = www.dnp.go.th opportunities for hiking and ing trails on the island, espe- bird-watching. Vacationers cially around Ao Mae Yai, as Comprising a group of five should look out for crab- well as some good campsites. enchanting islands set in the eating macaques, Bengal The site of the park head- heart of the Andaman Sea, the monitors, and over 57 species quarters, Ko Surin Nua also Surin Islands were declared a of birds. The Surin Islands are has a restaurant that provides national park in 1981 and also home to the flying fox, a Thai food and simple but remain one of the most pris- rare species of bat, which adequate overnight accommo- tine and beautiful maritime lives in trees. dation in bungalows. destinations in Thailand. The archipelago offers unparal- leled diving and snorkeling SEA GYPSIES opportunities, especially Probably the earliest around Richelieu Rock and inhabitants of the region, Burma Banks, with under- the chao lae, or sea gyp- water visibility of up to 81 ft sies, are thought to be (25 m). Ko Surin Nua and Ko descendants of Malaysia’s Surin Tai, the two larger orang laut, or sea people. islands, are separated by a Numbering around 5,000, narrow strait about 656 ft they continue to lead a nomadic life, living on the Andaman Coast in houseboats called kabang. Their largest group, the , children playing outside numbering around 3,000, their huts, Ko Surin Tai live in simple shacks making a living by fishing and are well integrated into Thai society. The smaller groups comprise the Moklen and Moken, the latter being the least sophisticated of the group. They make their living by harvesting the bounty of the seas – sea cucumbers, oysters, and shellfish – and selling handicrafts to visitors. They believe in propitiating tutelary spirits, especially those associated with nature and the sea. Their annual rites include a spiritual cleansing Shoals of brightly colored fish on ceremony to rid themselves of evil spirits. the reefs off Surin Islands

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 205

Ko Surin Tai U TSKiF^64FzX2† Ko Surin Tai, or Surin South Island, is the second largest island in the Surin archipelago and similar to Ko Surin Nua as far as the flora and fauna is concerned, but without the park facilities. The simple village of Chao Thalae, popu- lated by the Moken sea gypsies, is also located on this island. Ao Tao, a beautiful bay situated to the southeast of the island, is home to sea turtles. Snorkeling in the waters off the bay is the per- fect way to admire not just the turtles, but also the gor- geous coral reefs in the area.

Richelieu Rock Huts on stilts and fishing boats at Chao Thalae, Ko Surin Tai WFU'UF E‰FN" 9 miles (14 km) SE of Surin Islands. navigational hazard for boats whale sharks although their & in the area, as it rises perpen- numbers have declined over An isolated, limestone dicularly from the sea floor the years. The coral reefs are seamount shaped like a horse- 100 ft (30 m) below. also home to a great variety shoe and almost completely Fortunately, Richelieu Rock of marine life including the submerged in the sea, did not suffer during the 2004 tigertail seahorse, harlequin Richelieu Rock is considered tsunami and the marine eco- shrimps, frog fish, lion fish, as to be among the best dive logy of the area remains intact. well as the yellow and spiny sites in Thailand. The rocky It provides feeding grounds pineapple fish. Visitors wish- summit of the seamount just and shelter to a wide variety ing to dive here should only about manages to break the of fish including barracuda, do so if accompanied by an surface at low tide and is a jacks, batfish, manta rays, and experienced dive operator who knows the area well.

"URMA"ANKS Burma Banks "OEBNBO4FB MILESKM  (VMGPG ,P3J 'TEV16AD€T 4VSJO 5IBJMBOE 38 miles (60 km) NW of Surin *TMBOET ,IVSBCVSJ Islands. More remote and probably 6QQFS"OEBNBO "P4BJ%BFOH $PBTU more exotic than Richelieu "P+BL Rock, Burma Banks is a ,P4VSJO/VB succession of submerged seamounts. The three main "P.BJ seamounts – Silvertip, /HBN "P4BJFO "P.BF Rainbow, and Roe – offer an :BJ unparalleled diving experience ,P,MBOH over pristine coral reefs, "P$IBOH 1BSL home to an amazing variety "P.VOH,PO )2 "P4VUIFQ of large fish and other exotic 2ICHELIEU2OCK )2 MILESKM  marine creatures such as the $IBOOFM +HURABURI great barracuda and moray ,P4VSJO MILESKM  5BJ eels. Day trips for visitors can be organized from either $IBP 5IBMBF Khuraburi (see p203) or from )JO Khao Lak (see p208). ,BPX "P5BP Diving here is recommended KEY only for the experienced since divers must go into the Beach "P1BLLBE open ocean. The main attrac- Dive site tion is the almost guaranteed ,P,BJ sighting of sharks such as the Area of natural beauty nurse shark, which can grow Ferry service 0 km 2 up to 10 ft (3 m) in length; silvertip; as well as the exotic Ferry route 0 miles 2 leopard shark. 206 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Thick rain forest backed by dramatic limestone peaks at Khao Sok National Park

Khao Sok Sok is one of the few places the Chiaw Lan Lake forms the e in the world where it grows. most distinctive geographical National Park This foul-smelling plant is feature of Khao Sok. Ni4ET6VLt$'T2^U!TK wholly parasitic and lies dor- This park is a popular spot mant inside the roots of the and offers activities such as Road Map B4. Park HQ off host tree. Once a year it kayaking, elephant trekking, Hwy 401, 53 miles (85 km) S breaks the surface of the bark as well as the extreme sport of Khuraburi. c n Park HQ and over a few months grows of spelunking, where par- (0-7739-5139). & 8 0 = into the world’s largest flower ticipants go diving into a www.dnp.go.th measuring up to 31 inches series of subterranean caves. (79 cm) in width. The flower’s Khao Sok also has a number Together with the neighboring fetid smell attracts pollinating of hiking trails; most are reserves of Mu Ko Ra-Ko insects. However, it has suitable for all levels. A few Phra Thong National a short life span and demanding trails might suit Park (see p203) and shrivels into a putrescent experienced trekkers. Basic Khao Lak-Lam Ru mass in a few days. accommodations and food National Park (see Khao Sok receives the are available inside the p208), the Khao Sok brunt of both the southwest park. There are also a few National Park forms the and northeast monsoons mini-markets just outside the largest tract of virgin rain which results in an entrance to Khao Sok and at forest in southern Thailand. extended rainy season the park headquarters. Khao Sok is a part of the from May to November. oldest forest system that has Thus the best time to visit Nam Tok Than Sawan remained unchanged Great Asian the park is between 6†2 5TFKHFF"z through the Ice Ages hornbill January and April. 4 miles (7 km) W of Park HQ. of the past and dates The park is A spectacular waterfall, the back a 160 million years. The famous for its beautiful karst Nam Tok Than Sawan, or 285-sq mile (738-sq km) park limestone peaks, numerous Heavenly Waterfall, is at the rises to a height of 3,150 ft waterfalls, and caves. Along end of a picturesque trekking (960 m) and includes more with the limestone outcrops, trail which can get quite in- than 100 spectacular islands accessible at the height of the formed as a result of the con- rainy season. The waterfall struction of the Rachabrapha bursts from the edge of a Dam in 1982. steep cliff, and creates a stun- Elephants, tigers, bears, ning rainbow effect due to tapirs, gibbons, and monkeys the reflection of the sunlight are found in the park, along in the water. with over 300 species of birds, including hornbills and Nam Tok Sip-Et Chan argus pheasants. Sightings of 6†2 K^7UNr1'm6 the larger animals are usually 3 miles (5 Km) N of Park HQ. at night, and animal tracks A large waterfall that descends are regularly seen along the over eleven tiers of rock stairs, marked trails. Sadly, poaching Nam Tok Sip-Et Chan is not of the animals persists despite too far from the park head- the efforts of park officers. quarters, but takes up to three There is also a wide range hours to reach because of the of interesting flora, including Longtail boats, a convenient mode difficult terrain and the the rare Rafflesia kerri; Khao of transportation at Khao Sok number of river crossings.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 207

Trekkers should watch out for wildlife such as gibbons and hornbills along the way.

Chiaw Lan Lake 4SUGKT7U'n EHLGT6‰ 41 miles (66 km) E of Park HQ. A star attraction of the park, Chiaw Lan Lake is approx- imately an hour’s drive from the park headquarters. This large freshwater reservoir created by the construction of the Rachabrapha Dam in 1982, is also known as Rachabrapha Lake. Spectac- ular karst outcrops, isolated from the mainland by the flooding waters, rise from the lake to almost 3,000 feet (914 m) in height – about three times the height of sim- View of distant karst outcrops across Chiaw Lan Lake ilar karst outcrops at Phang Nga Bay (see pp212-17). long horseshoe-shaped cave say, as there have been Gibbons and eagles can be which is located near the several casualties. Hazards seen on these peaks which southwestern shore of Chiaw aside, a visit to this cave is a are a haven for rare wildlife Lan Lake. A visit to the cave highlight of the Khao Sok but are inaccessible to all but is an exciting trek through experience offering visitors an the most intrepid climbers. dark and slippery terrain and unparalleled oppurtunity to Accommodations are in the is not really recommended for see rare cave creatures. form of floating chalets or those who are frightened of eco-friendly huts built on the bats, or suffer from claustro- Tham Si Ru lake which offer spectacular phobia. A marked trail follows 3wK nFj views of the surroundings. a small river into the cave Another well-known cave system and visitors have to system, Tham Si Ru, or Four Tham Nam Thalu wade through water for a part Holes Cave, has four con- 3w6w4SGi of the journey. Anyone verging cave passages that One of the most rewarding entering Nam Thalu must were used as a secret base spots in the park, Tham Nam wear suitable footwear and by communist insurgents in Thalu is a 2,625-ft (800-m) carry a flashlight. It is not southern Thailand during advisable to visit the cave the 1970s. The caves can be KEY during the the rainy season, reached on foot from the Bus station despite whatever guides may southern shore of the lake. Visitor information Major road Minor road Trail /BN5PL4JQ &U$IBO $IJBX-BO - -BLF Park boundary

5IBN/BN 5IBMV

5IBN4J3V 

T

F J

D

F

Q M

J

4

 B

S D ,)"040,

J 5  ,IVSBCVSJ N /"5*0/"-1"3, F 1BSL)2

E $IJBX

O -BO-BLF

& 5BOH/BN  (PSHF 8JOH)JO 8BUFSGBMM ,IBP4PL/BUJPOBM1BSL - FS "SFB 4PL3JW JMMVTUSBUFE /BN5PL  5IBO4BXBO

0 km 3

4AKUA0A MILESKM 0 miles 3 208 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Takua Pa r development is also on the 2S }oH8nT rise and a variety of accommo- dations are now available. Road Map B4. 33 miles (53 km) S Hat Khao Lak is a fine of Khuraburi. * 35,000. c beach and a good base from which to explore the pristine Known to have been one of Surin (see pp204–5) and the finest harbors in peninsular Similan Islands (see pp210-11) Thailand, Takua Pa, also located 4 hours away by boat. known as Takkolam or Takola, Many visitors come here to was once a busy port hand- book their dive trips. Between ling mercantile traffic between November and April, the fish- the ancient kingdoms of ing ports of Thap Lamu and Srivijaya (see p39) and the Hat Khao Lak operate as ferry Tamil kingdoms of South points for trips to these islands. India. The town is divided Sights such as the 199-ft into two distinct areas, better (61-m) high Nam Tok Sai known as the old and the Sunbathers taking a stroll along Rung, or Sai Rung Waterfall, new quarters. While the pretty Hat Khao Lak vie for visitors’ attention. This former is reminiscent of Takua lovely waterfall, situated close Pa’s historic past with several to the beach off Highway 4, is t charming Sino-Portuguese- Hat Khao Lak good for swimming, although style houses, the latter is U!TLG caution is advised. situated along the Takua Pa River. Vacationers can roam Road Map B4. 21 miles (34 km) the streets of this little-visited SW of Takua Pa. @ from Takua Pa friendly town, dotted with or Phuket. n TAT, Phuket (0-7621- Buddhist and Chinese temples, 1036). or head for the exotic Hat Bang Sak, or Teak Tree Beach, The coastline south of Takua Takua Pa’s best-known spot. Pa consists of long stretches A lovely, stretch of white sand, of rocky and sandy beaches. Hat Bang Sak is shaded by Hat Khao Lak, halfway casuarinas and best reached between Takua Pa and Thai by following Route 4 between Muang, is the southernmost Thai Muang and Takua Pa. It of six beaches separated by currently offers simple accom- rocky outcrops. It has so far modations, but plans for more been relatively quiet but, is upscale hotels and resorts are now beginning to attract Observation deck at Khao Lak-Lam already on the table. more visitors. Commercial Ru National Park Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park y Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^VLGDFnj‰

Road Map B4. Park HQ off Hwy 4, Laem Hin Chang, 21 miles (34 Km) S of Takua Pa. @ from Takua Pa or Phuket. c n Park HQ (08-1979-1225). # 8am– 4:30pm daily. & 8 0 = www.dnp.go.th

Established as a land-based park in 1991, Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park was made into a marine national park in 1995 due to the inclusion of several offshore areas. The park covers an area of 49 sq miles (127 sq km) and is justly famous for its out- standing natural beauty, encompassing islands, sea cliffs, forested hills, and beaches, in addition to karst Open-air restaurant with thatched pavilions along the coast, Hat Bang Sak and granite outcrops dating

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 209

Khlong Thap Liang u "GN$47ULG E$

Road Map B4. 6 miles (10 km) SW of Khao Lak-Lam Ru. c 4 0 =

An interesting and exciting addition to any visit to Khao Lak is a longtail boat trip to the nearby Khlong Thap Liang estuary, and the contiguous Khlong Thung Maphrao and Khlong Hin Lad waterways. The mangrove forests here are worth a visit and are inhabited by troops of crab-eating macaques, who generally venture from the mangroves Colorful flags adorning the entrance to Khao Lak-Lam Ru to the mudflats in search of food at low tide. These from the Cretaceous period. Chang. Others include Nam estuaries – styled khlongs The park is home to a variety Tok Saeng Thong and Nam (canals) – lie immediately to of flora and fauna. The trop- Tok Chong Fa. Thai visitors the south of Thap Lamu ical evergreen forests on the also like to trek to a popular between the southern limits of hills near Khao Lak have a jungle shrine dedicated to the verdant Khao Lak-Lam Ru three-tier canopy with some Chao Po Khao Lak, said to be National Park and the northern gigantic trees towering over the tutelary guardian spirit of limits of the nearby Hat Thai them. The lower level is rich the national park. Muang National Park. in epiphytes such as orchids and ferns, as well as the useful rattan vines. Species of fauna in the park include macaques, langurs, black drongos, Asiatic black bears, gold-whiskered barbets, reticulated pythons, giant black squirrels, wild boar, and several types of hornbill. There are a number of treks leading to several waterfalls, the most popular of which is the spectacular Nam Tok Lam Ru or Lam Ru Waterfall, located about 19 miles (31 km) from the park headquaters at Laem Hin Longtail boats stranded in an estuary at low tide, Khlong Thap Liang

TAKUA PA, THE ANCIENT SRIVIJAYA PORT OF TAKOLA Originally named Takola, Takua Pa is one of the oldest human settlements in southern Thailand, dating as far back as the Srivijaya era (see pp38–9), when it was an important port. The name Takola is thought to have been derived from the Tamil word takkolam (pepper), and is indicative of the area’s strong historic links with South India. Takola was probably the main harbor on the Andaman Coast for trade between the Thai-Malay kingdom of Srivijaya and the southern Indian Tamil kingdoms of the Pallavas (4th–9th centuries) and the Cholas (9th–13th centuries). It is believed to have played an important role in the spread of South Asian, Hindu, and Buddhist culture and beliefs throughout southern Thailand and the Malay Peninsula. Little physical evidence survives from this period. However, the single most important artifact of this era is a tall statue, nearly 8 ft (2 m) high, of Lord Vishnu, god of the Hindu holy trinity, found at Takua Pa. It is now on display at Thalang National Museum (see p234) in Phuket.

Statue of Lord Vishnu displayed at Thalang National Museum, Phuket 210 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

staghorn, star, and branching just off the shore. Christmas corals. In these seemingly Point is particularly good with perfect waters there are also some exciting fish such as some potentially threatening jacks and bluefin trevally. species of fish such as giant Another great snorkeling site groupers, poisonous stone fish, lies in the sheltered eastern and lion fish; as well as a lee of the island, which is also variety of sharks including home to a park ranger station. leopard sharks, hammerheads, bull sharks, and whale sharks, Ko Similan which can be found swim- U TSK^D^G6 ming off these islands. The largest island, Ko Similan Ko Similan, the largest is located near the northern- island in the archipelago, cov- most point of the archipelago. ers an area of 2 Although it has no accom- sq miles modations, there are (5 sq km) and Young two favored dive Extraordinary rock shapes and is home to a vari- leopard shark spots – Fantasy Reef pristine waters off Ko Similan ety of marine ani- to the west of the mals, land mammals, and island, and a scuba reptiles such as crabs, spot to the south of Similan Islands snakes, and bats and 40 Ao Nang Chan, the Marine National species of birds. longest beach, on the island’s The main attraction however, eastern shore. Fantasy Reef i Park are the 20 or so recognized has been closed indefinitely Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^LDj€U TSK^D^Gk6 dive sites offering all levels of to allow recovery from the diving experience. The under- 2004 tsunami. Road Map A4. 38 miles (60 km) W water grottoes and swim- of Thap Lamu. g from Thap Lamu, through tunnels appeal to Kha Lak, and Phuket. 4 n Park HQ divers and snorkelers. (0-7659-5045); Forestry Dept However, it is necessary to (0-2562-0760) for bungalow book a dive tour at Thap bookings. # Nov–May. & 8 0 Lamu or through an agency in = www.dnp.go.th Phuket, since there are no diving agencies in the park. Established in 1982, the Half-day park-run snorkeling enchanting Similan Islands tours depart for Ko Miang Marine National Park covers an on a daily basis. It is also area of 54 sq miles (140 sq possible to arrange day trips km). The name Similan is from Ko Miang to the more derived from the Malay word remote islands such as Ko sembilan (nine), for the Bon further north. Snorkeling, one of the main number of islands in the archi- outdoor activities on Ko Similan pelago. These granitic islands, Ko Bangu rising from the Andaman Sea, U TS76 j‰ Hin Pusa are stunning – verdant rain The northernmost island in L^6CjIT forest surrounded by a ring the Similan archipelago, Ko Set in the Andaman Sea, just of white sand beaches, coral Bangu, also known as Hua south of Ko Similan and to reefs, and azure sea. The Kalok, or Skull Island, has a the north of Ko Payu, Hin seabed is decorated with couple of excellent dive spots Pusa, or Elephant Head, is

Ko Bangu, an idyllic swimming spot where the forest comes down to the beach

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 211

really just a rocky outcrop. The various boulders that make up Elephant Head form a series of tunnels, arches, and swim-through channels which can be quite challenging, even for accomplished swim- mers. A very popular dive spot, it has a host of spectac- ular marine creatures clearly visible even without snor- keling gear. These include a colony of spider crabs, a range of soft corals, cuttlefish, mantis shrimps, the twin- colored parrot fish, an occa- Vacationers disembarking from the boat at Ko Miang sional olive ridley turtle, and even the gentle whale sharks. Ko Payu seamounts of Hin Muan Diao. U TSATEi There are recommended dive A tiny forest-capped marble sites in the shallow waters to outcrop, Ko Payu is surround- the north and south. ,P#BOHV ed by a reef of staghorn corals. In addition to diving and It has two excellent dive sites – swimming opportunities, Ko one to the east of the island, Miang offers a few short but ,P#PO and the other, just west of the sometimes steep inland trails, narrow headland that marks combined with the possibility the island’s northern extremity. of sighting the rare Nicobar ,P Divers can see large numbers pigeon, which thrives here. 4JNJMBO of big and small fish such as The two most popular trails lion fish, triggerfish, box fish, are Viewpoint Trail, leading to "P/BOH $IBO wrasse, and eels. the island summit, and Sunset Point, leading – as the name Ko Miang suggests – to an idyllic spot U TSUD nE$ from where truly glorious The most important and well sunsets over the Andaman developed island in the archi- Sea can be enjoyed. pelago, Ko Miang is where )JO1VTB visitors will find the informa- Ko Payang tion center, restaurant, U TSAET$ bungalow and dormitory acco- Verdant, pristine, and quite mmodations, as well as a uninhabited, tiny Ko Payang ,P1BZV campsite. Just to the east of is yet another haven for the island, beyond a narrow enthusiastic divers. There are headland, lie the tiny dive sites just off the northern shore, and farther to the east, off Ko Payang, as well as at a nearby seamount called Hin "OEBNBO4FB 4HAP,AMU (VMGPG Phae or Shark Fin Point. 1BSL MILESKM 5IBJMBOE )2 6QQFS Ko Huyong ,P "OEBNBO 4JNJMBO $PBTU U TSLjE$i .JBOH *TMBOET The southernmost island in 0HUKET the Similan archipelago, Ko MILESKM Huyong has a long, white "/%"."/ beach where sea turtles lay 4&" ,P1BZBO eggs. It also has a turtle 0 km 2 breeding station. The island is not open to visitors, nor are 0 miles 2 there any offshore diving sites KEY here. However, it is a beauti- ,P1BZBOH ful place to sail around. The Beach shallow waters allow plenty Dive site of sunlight to penetrate through, making the seabed Ferry service ,P)VZPOH around the island a real Visitor information haven for its teeming diversity of marine creatures and Ferry route numerous corals. 212 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Phang Nga Bay o NtTHA$$T "OEBNBO4FB (VMGPG 5IBJMBOE

No one area epitomizes the splendor of southern 6QQFS "OEBNBO Thailand’s landscape as perfectly as the 155-sq mile $PBTU (401-sq km) Phang Nga Bay. Its scenic grandeur derives from the towering limestone stacks rising 1IBOH /HB#BZ Conch out of azure waters. Boat tours are available for seashell visitors to explore sights such as the Panyi fishing village, the famous James Bond Island, as well as LOCATOR MAP a number of fascinating caves with prehistoric paintings Area illustrated and Buddhist shrines. However, due to erosion, tourist boats are banned from large areas of Phang Nga Bay, Tham Lot is a 165-ft though viewing is possible from a distance. (50-m) long sea tunnel through limestone caves with stalactites hanging from its roof.

4B/BOH Wat Tham .BOPSB 'PSFTU1BSL Suwan Khuha 5BLEBU Tiny shrines, a 1IBOH/HB Reclining Buddha, 8BU5IBN 4VXBO,IVIB and chedis are found #BOH 4VBO4PNEFU 5PFJ among the stalactites 1ISB4JOBLIBSJO and stalagmites in 1BSL this cave temple. 5BLVB 5IB%BO 5IVOH

"P1IBOH/HB 4HAI-UANG /BUJPOBM1BSL MILESKM 0HUKET MILESKM

,B-BJ

. Panyi Fishing Village About 120 Muslim families live in this village built entirely on stilts above water. Islanders sell , dried shrimp, and shrimp paste for a living. ,IMPOH ,IJBO

Ko Phanak has many hongs (sea chambers) with vegetation-clad walls and marooned snakes and monkeys.

. James Bond Island Ko Khao Phing Kan, Rock Paintings popularly known as James Prehistoric rock art can be Bond Island, and nearby seen around the Ao Phang Ko Tapu featured promi- Nga National Park and is a nently in the 1974 James popular spot with visitors on Bond classic, The Man boat tours around the bay. With the Golden Gun.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHANG NGA BAY 213

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map B5. 56 miles (90 km) NE of Phuket town. n TAT, Phuket (0-7621-2213). @ from Phuket or Krabi to Phang Nga town. g from Phuket.

KEY Beach Areas of Mangrove Wat It is possible to explore many mangrove channels in a Ferry service small boat at high tide, Major road although skillful piloting Minor road #P4BFO is often required.

Tham Hua Gralok, which means Skull Cave, contains prehistoric paintings, in colored ,IBP:BJ pigments, of humans and strange animals.

"V-VL/VB

"P-VL

#BO,MBOH

,IMPOH )JO "P-VL -BFN /PJ 4BL

Rubber Plantations ,IBP ,ISBN Rubber is a major cash crop and plantations cover large areas of the +RABI MILESKM bay. Latex tapped from the trees, is left to harden in shallow trays.

,P :BP/PJ JAMES BOND AND THE ISLAND HIDEOUT In the film The Man With the Golden Gun (1974), James Bond (Roger Moore) comes to Thailand in search of the villain Scaramanga (Christopher Lee). Bond eventually 0 km 5 goes to Scaramanga’s hideout, an island 0 miles 5 just off China. The island, in fact, that is visible in the back- STAR SIGHTS ground is Ko Khao Phing Kan and the . Panyi Fishing Village sheer rock nearby containing the secret . James Bond Island weapon, is Ko Tapu. Scaramanga and Bond In Phang Nga 214 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Phang Nga Bay Limestone Stacks Phang Nga Bay is, in fact, the most spectacular remnant of the once mighty Tenasserim Mountains which still form a spine through Thailand to China. Its lime stacks rise sheer from calm, shallow waters up to 1,150 ft (350 m). There are about 40 stacks and inside many of Sea eagle, them are narrow tunnels and sea caves. Phang Nga The karst scenery with its majestic pinnacles continues inland to the east, where cliffs soar above the hidden valleys with cas- Mangroves at the bay’s silted cading rivers. A protected site, the bay is home to northern end are Thailand’s diverse ecosystems and a variety of wildlife. largest and best preserved mangrove area. Isolated stacks are a number of sheer, thin projections in the bay. These columns of rock are splinters of limestone that are shaped through heavy erosion by the sea.

Caves form quickly at sea level. Some are exposed only at low tide.

Forest scrub clings to Fissures allow water to cracks in the rapidly penetrate and limestone. erode the limestone.

CROSS SECTION OF TYPICAL STACKS IN PHANG NGA BAY The limestone landscape at Phang Nga Bay is known by geologists as drowned karstland. Karst is character- Calcite deposits result in speleothems, or ized by its internal drainage system, whereby water finds cave formations, such as stalagmites its way into the interior of the limestone through fissures, and stalactites due to the combination then erodes the rock from within riddling it with tunnels, of chemicals, air, water, and bacteria. chasms, and vast hongs. PHANG NGA BAY 215

Undercut cliffs form when wave action erodes the base of the The aerial view of Phang Nga Bay is a striking stacks at the rate of about 3 ft sight, with vertical formations jutting straight (1 m) every 5,000 years. out of the surrounding azure waters.

The weak roof of the cave will eventually collapse.

Ko Hong has a vast network of lagoons, chasms, and tunnels running underneath it. As a conservation measure, access to the area is forbidden at present.

HOW PHANG NGA BAY WAS FORMED Fissures form from Hard and Calcite turns into rain action. soft corals limestone over millions of years.

Deposits of calcite from Gaps occur dead coral build up. due to uneven calcite deposits.

130 million years ago, the area was part of a 75 million years ago, plate movements pushed vast underwater coral reef. Calcite deposits these deposits, which had turned to limestone, from dead coral built up in thick layers. out of the ocean. The rigid rock ruptured.

Meltwater from Wave action the ice caps sculpts the begins to flood stacks. Phang Nga.

The cave is The gap erodes much larger. into a cave.

20,000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, 8,000 years ago, the sea reached its highest the sea level rose, flooding Phang Nga. Waves level, about 13 ft (4 m) above its present height, and tides accelerated the process of erosion. sculpting a shelf, visible on most of the stacks. 216 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Phang Nga Bay Beach Golf Course and Resort. Recently renovated, this golf Phang Nga Bay can be easily reached either from course is one of the most Phuket (see pp220–38) or Krabi (see p244). Distances popular seaside golf clubs are not great and most places on the mainland are in Thailand. The town is a accessible by bus, taxi, cars, or motorcycles. Visitors jumping-off point for the should keep in mind that the natural beauty of the area Khao Lampi Hat Thai Muang National Park. Hat Thai attracts a large number of people, so those who want Muang is a nesting ground for to avoid the crowds should hire a longtail boat as an sea turtles. Other animals in alternative to packed tour boats. An even better option the park include the oriental is to join a daylong sea-kayaking tour and explore the honey-buzzard and Malayan collapsed cave systems that make the offshore islands pit viper. The town is also fascinating. Phang Nga is a good base for those who famous for its celebration of want to spend some time exploring the bay. the Turtle Releasing Festival at the end of the nesting season in March. During this festival, participants release turtles bred by the fishery department into the sea.

O Sa Nang Manora Forest Park H6Ni4ET6KFS6T$DY6FTLgg‰ Off Hwy 4, 5 miles (8 km) NE of Phang Nga. n Park HQ (0-7535-6134). c 0 = www.dnp.go.th This beautiful but little-visited park features simple dirt trails running through dense rain forests with many streams, waterfalls, and pools for swimming. The park is named after the mythical Princess Manora. According to legend, she supposedly bathes in the pools of this forest when no Limestone cliffs forming a backdrop against charming Phang Nga one is around – a tale which undoubtedly adds to the Phang Nga Thai Muang forest’s charm. The various Ak$$T W4EUDN$‰ waterfalls are linked by a 56 miles (90 m) NE of Phuket town. 32 miles (51 km) W of Phang series of trails which are good @ c g 4 ( Nga. c 4 _ Turtle Releasing for hiking. Picnic tables laid As the capital of Phang Nga Festival (Mar). out at intervals can be used province, Phang Nga is A small Sino-Thai market for rest or grabbing a bite. perhaps destined to be town on the Andaman Sea Visitors should carry enough overshadowed by the livelier coast, Thai Muang is best drinking water as the park island of Phuket, but it more known for the Thai Muang has very high humidity levels. than makes up for this, owing to its spectacular location. There is a great deal to do and see in the vicinity, most notably in and around the beautiful Phang Nga Bay. Very few visitors choose to stay in the town given the variety of accommodations available at the luxurious beach resorts on neighboring Phuket. Yet, Phang Nga is laid-back, friendly, and provides an authentic Thai experience for those who want to escape the bustle of a commercial tourist spot. It is an ideal place for an overnight stay. Waterfalls dotting the interior of the Sa Nang Manora Forest Park

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and p328–31 PHANG NGA BAY 217

O Ao Phang Nga National Park Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^N€THA$$T‰ Off Hwy 402, 7 miles (11 km) S of Phang Nga. n Park HQ (0-7641-2188). 4 # dawn to dusk daily. & 8 0 = www.dnp.go.th Inaugurated in 1981, Ao Phang Nga National Park covers an area of around 155 sq miles (401 sq km) and is made up of a number of small and large islands, karst outcrops, inaccessible and tall Reclining Buddha statue within the larger cave at Wat Tham Suwan Khuha cliff faces – some as high as 980 ft (299 m) – overlooking  Wat Tham Suwan Khuha sundial. Paddle boats are the azure waters of the H13wKiHFF0"jLT available for hire and can be Andaman Sea. The coastal 6 miles (10 km) SW of Phang Nga. used to explore the lake. areas of the park are lined @ c # dawn to dusk daily. Wooden walkways have been with mangrove forests, the & = built to link the main caverns largest remaining area of the Venerated by locals, Wat both for ease of access and to original primary mangrove Tham Suwan Khuha is one keep visitors’ feet dry, as forest in Thailand. The park is of ’s chief many of the caves and home to a wide variety of attractions, and is almost as tunnels are often flooded. land and marine creatures, popular as Phang Nga Bay. One of the caves, Tham Reusi including Malayan dolphins, This temple fascinates most Sawan, shelters the golden hammerhead sharks, manta visitors with its two conjoined statue of a hermit wearing a rays, finless porpoises, and caves filled with images of tiger skin, who is regarded as the 7-ft (2-m) long water the Buddha in all shapes and a symbol of good fortune. monitor. Most people, sizes. The larger cave has a Another well-known cave is however, visit the park for the 50-ft (15-m) Reclining Buddha the Tham Luk Seua, which fantastic vistas of the surreal and is tiled with Laikhraam means Tiger Cub Cave, limestone towers rising from and Benjarong (different although the word luk seua the surrounding waters, styles of ceramics). Various also means Boy Scout in teeming with sea eagles and spirit flags as well as the Thai. The park can be easily macaques – a complete haven statue of a seated hermit reached on motorcycles for nature enthusiasts. adorn the caves. In the past, the cave-temple has attracted royal visitors, and the seals of several Chakri (see pp42–3) kings including Rama V (r.1868–1910), Rama VII (r.1925–1935), and the current king, Rama IX, are etched in the wall of the smaller cave. Visitors should watch out for the large number of monkeys in the vicinity.

Y Suan Somdet Phra Sinakharin Park Ni4ET6KH6KDU1r%AFSJF 6"F^64Fz‰ ‰ KH6KDU1r%E€T Off Nonthaburi Pathum Thani Rd, 2 miles (3 km) SW of Phang Nga. # dawn to dusk daily. An attractive botanical park, the Suan Somdet Phra Sinakharin Park, is surrounded by karst peaks limestone pinnacles, and beautiful gardens. The park has two entrances and is replete with caves, tunnels, and limestone formations, as well as a large lake with a fountain and a Dramatic cliffside entrance to Suan Somdet Phra Sinakharin Park

Aerial view of the limestone stacks and mangrove forests, Phang Nga Bay

220 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

4BSBTJO Phuket p #SJEHF 5IBDIBUDIBJ t CjU r2 /BUVSF5SBJM

Thailand’s largest island, Phuket first )BU4BJ,BFP  became prosperous as a result of tin production, but now tourism is the major earner. This is one of Southeast Asia’s most popular holiday destina- tions with its stunning beaches, clear )BU.BJ,IBP 1IVLFU waters, and vibrant nightlife. In recent *OUFSOBUJPOBM "JSQPSU A blue glassy tiger years, there has been a huge growth 4*3*/"5) butterfly in chic resorts and spas on Phuket. /"5*0/"-   Phuket town is the island’s administrative capital and 1"3, cultural center. The northern tip of Phuket is separated )BU/BJ from the mainland just by a narrow channel, over :BOH which runs the 2,295-ft (700-m) long Sarasin Bridge.

  Half-Buried Buddha "P )BU/BJ Wat Phra Thong is )JO 5IPO built around an ,SVBJ 8BU1ISB 5IPOH unusual Buddha )BU#BOH image, half-buried in 5IBP t the ground. Legend 5IBMBOH t)B :BFL says that whoever $IBMPOH tries to remove it "P#BOH  will die. 5IBP 8BU 1ISB/BOH 4BOH "P  1BOTFB

)BU4VSJO )BU-BFN4JOHI Game fishing )BU,BNBMB

The rich waters off Phuket 1IVLFU ,BUIV attract keen anglers. 'BOUB4FB t 8BUFSGBMM t )BU,BMJN  KEY "P  1BUPOH Beach )BU1BUPOH 

Aquarium 'SFFEPN t #FBDI 1BUPOH Wat

International airport )BU,BSPO  /PJ Ferry service 

Visitor information "P,BSPO )BU,BSPO 8BU Main road $IBMPOH Minor road -BFN Ferry route . West Coast Beaches 4BJ The clearest waters, best sands, ,P1V Park boundary )BU,BUB and the most luxurious hotels "P,BUB :BJ :BJ are on the west coast. Patong  )BU,BUB/PJ is the most developed resort; STAR SIGHTS )BU 3BXBJ Karon and Kata are quieter.  West Coast Beaches . )BU/BJ)BSO Phuket Orchid Garden . Laem Promthep is the ,P and Thai Village southernmost accessible point on #PO Phuket. The sunset views from this ,P,BFP .Phuket Aquarium rugged headland, are among the most 1JTBEBO ,P3BDIB:BJ stunning sights on the island. NJMFT LN

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 221

Sirinath National VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Park Spreading over land Road Map B5. 56 miles and water, this park (90 km) S of Phang Nga. supports a variety of k 18 miles (29 km) N of flora and fauna. It Phuket town center.@ g is especially famous n TAT, 73–75 Phuket Rd, Phuket town (0-7621-1036). as a nesting ground _ Vegetarian Festival (late for endangered Sep/early Oct, for nine days), sea turtles. King’s Cup Regatta (Dec). www.phuket.com

The Gibbon Rehabilitation ,P -BFN /HBN Center in Khao Phra Taew ,IVU Park teaches gibbons reared in captivity to fend for themselves in the wild. 

,P3BFU Heroines’ ,P/BHB :BJ Monument "P1P This monument is t #BOH1BF8BUFSGBMM ,)"01)3" dedicated to two sisters ,P/BHB/PJ 5"&8/"5*0/"- who rallied the local t 1"3, /BHB1FBSM t 5PO4BJ 'BSN women to successfully 8BUFSGBMM  defend Phuket against ,P:BP:BJ Burmese invaders 5IBMBOH/BUJPOBM NJMFT LN .VTFVN ,P:BP/PJ during the Battle of NJMFT LN t Thalang in 1785. )FSPJOFT t .POVNFOU   "P4BQBN ,P3BOH :BJ

,P.BQISBP :BJ Phuket Butterfly  Garden and Insect  World houses many species of tropical butterflies as well as other insects.

. Phuket Orchid Garden and  t ,P4JSF (ZQTZ7JMMBHF Thai Village   This village has an exotic orchid garden Phuket Town and cultural performances with elephant (see pp222-3) shows, Thai kickboxing, and folk dances.

"P $IBMPOH 1IVLFU%FFQ t4FB1PSU 0 km 5

-BFN ,P1IJ1IJ 0 miles 5 1IBOXB NJMFT LN ,P-PO

. Phuket Aquarium This well-designed aquarium is a part of the the Phuket Marine Biological Center. It ,P)BJ houses sea and freshwater fish, turtles, and mollusks. 222 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Phuket Town to a preprinted fate that, according to belief, the per- Around the beginning of the 19th century, son will inherit. Most popular Phuket town grew to prominence with the with Chinese residents in the island’s tin resources attracting thousands of area, the temple is particularly Chinese migrants. Many merchants made crowded during the Vegetarian fortunes from tin, built splendid residences, Festival (see p225). and sent their children to British in  San Chao Put Jaw Malaysia for education. Hokkien-speaking tin- JTGU%†T8i1%wT mining families soon intermarried with the Ranong Rd. # dawn to dusk daily. indigenous Thai population. Today, the busy The cultural and economic downtown area retains some of its earlier Pillar at San influence of Phuket’s urban Chao Chui Tui charm, although, unlike most of Phuket, it Chinese business-class is is geared toward residents rather than apparent at San Chao Put Jaw, visitors. The Chinese influence remains intact in the Sino- the island’s most celebrated Portuguese shophouses, temples, and the local cuisine. shrine. A temple dedicated to the three teachings of northern Buddhism practiced in Vietnam and China, the tem- ple has little to associate it with Theravada Buddhism. Founded by settlers from southern China, it was orig- inally located on Soi Ang Ah Lai until it was severely dam- aged by fire and moved to its present location. Rebuilt in characteristic Chinese style with guardian lions at the gates and a traditional roof, it is a riot of color and clouds of incense smoke, especially during festivals.

Devotee placing incense sticks in a canister at San Chao Chui Tui  Chinese Mansions 2_ % 6 j Rang Hill jogging track here. On the top Thalang, Yaowarat, Dibuk, Krabi, U!TFk$ of the hill stands a bronze and Phang Nga Rds. Located to the northwest of statue of Khaw Sim Bee The heart of Phuket town is the town center, Rang Hill is a Na-Ranong (1857–1913), gov- the old Sino-Portuguese quar- beautiful spot, shaded by a ernor of Phuket for 12 years ter with its spacious, if now thick canopy of tropical trees from 1901 onward. He enjoyed rather run-down, Colonial- and covered with soft grass. considerable autonomy from style residences set in large Extremely popular with cou- Bangkok, but is credited with grounds. Most of them date ples, students, and visitors, bringing the island firmly from the reigns of Rama IV the hill provides breathtaking under central rule. An enter- and Rama V. Among the best views of the town. There is prising visionary, he also examples are those used today also a fitness park and a imported the first rubber tree as offices by the Standard into Thailand. Vachira Road, Chartered Bank and Thai which leads to the hill, has a Airways International on Buddhist temple with a statue Ranong Road as well as the of a golden, Seated Buddha. restored residential estates on There are also some excellent restaurants in the area.

 San Chao Chui Tui JTGU%†T%idE2inE Ranong Rd. # dawn to dusk daily. Elaborately decorated and painted bright red and gold, this Chinese temple receives a steady flow of devotees. Visitors come here, in particu- lar, to shuffle numbered sticks kept in a canister dedicated to Bronze statue of Khaw Sim Bee the vegetarian god Kiu Wong Exterior façade of typical Chinese Na-Ranong, Rang Hill In. Each number corresponds mansion, set in lush grounds

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 223

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map B5. 56 miles (90 km) SW of Phang Nga. * 100,000. k 18 miles (29 km) N of town center. c n TAT, 73–75 Phuket Rd. (0-7621-1036). ( daily. _ Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb full moon); Phuket Vegetarian Festival (early Oct, for nine days).

 Phuket Philatelic Museum A^A^^5C0.gW8FI0pET F Phuket Post and Telegraph Office, Montri Rd. Tel 0-7621-1020. # 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat. This charming little museum, set in the restored old Phuket Post Office, is a delight for visitors. The building, with typical Sino-Portuguese-style architecture, is a historical site in its own right, reminiscent Typical Rattanakosin-style architecture at Wat Mongkol Nimit of how the town looked almost 40 years ago, before Dibuk and Thalang roads. classic Thai architecture, has a the advent of commercial However, none of them have soaring multitiered roof, finely . Although been converted into museums carved doors, glass tiling, and more of a curiosity for its old and are not open to visitors. beautiful mosaic work, all of world charm than as a center which combine to give it an for any major stamp collection,  Wat Mongkol Nimit extremely bright and colorful the Phuket Philatelic Museum H1D$"G6^D^2 effect. Highly revered by the nevertheless has a collection Yaowarat Rd. # dawn to dusk daily. local Chinese population, the which includes many series of A large, Rattanakosin-style wat’s compound acts as a fascinating stamps from early temple, Wat Mongkol Nimit community center where Thai postal history; the ser- exudes an air of austerity. The monks play takraw (kick- vice dates back to the early wat, a fitting example of volleyball) with the laity. years of the 20th century.

1IVLFU#VUUFSnZ(BSEFO 1IVLFU0SDIJE 1IVLFU*OUFSOBUJPOBM PHUKET TOWN CENTER BOE*OTFDU8PSME (BSEFOBOE "JSQPSU 5IBJ7JMMBHF NJMFT LN

 4 3* Chinese Mansions 3BOH)JMM "5 55 Phuket Philatelic Museum 6 ,

"4" "

&

0 8" 3 Rang Hill 1 8 $)6.1) 0/



&1, 4

:" 1SPWJODJBM * 8 . )BMM

San Chao Bang Niew # 6

  5) San Chao Chui Tui 2  "

5)6/(,  San Chao Put Jaw 3 4"500 ." &-6"/ $IJOFTF  7 .BOTJPOT

San Chao Sang Tham  ) "5  /

5 65 Wat Mongkol Nimit 8BU.POHLPM 4 1"5 /JNJU

)*1"5 %*#6, 1 ) 6 , & 5 1IVLFU1IJMBUFMJD , 3 "# * .VTFVN "3"5 4BO$IBP 5)"- "/( 1VU+BX 08 -POHEJTUBODF 3 4BO$IBP CVTTUBUJPO " /0 :" / (  4BOH5IBN 1)"/(/( 3 " 4"% " " 4BO$IBP

3* 'FSSZ1PSU " $IVJ5VJ / " NJMFT LN

1

" 

5 "

5 6

. 0 / 5 " ,

" )

5 1 -BFN #"/(,0, / 5VLLBF )" 1 ) "0'" 4 $ &/ 0 /( "30 -* 6,&5 $) *5" "/" $ ) 1 $) 0 meters 500 00 / 1 )  0 1 ) :& 0 yards 500 - * .  (  4 0 / 4BO$IBP #BOH/JFX , 3 " Key to Symbols see back flap 224 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Laem Tukkae VLGD2i‚ V 2 miles (3 km) SE of town center. _ Chao Le Boat Floating Festival, 6th and 11th lunar months. With around 1,500 sea gyspies, Laem Tukkae is home to Phuket’s second-largest com- munity of chao thalae after Hat Rawai. These chao thalae make a living from traditional pursuits such as fishing. They organize the Chao Le Boat Floating Festival, a cere- mony similar to Loy Krathong (see p37) in which small boats are released into the sea dur- ing evening hours to drive San Chao Sang Tham, a Chinese temple in Phuket’s old town away evil spirits and bring good luck.  San Chao Sang Tham happiness. San Chao Bang JTGU%†TVK$5FFD‰ Niew is known for the specta- Y Phuket Butterfly Garden Yaowarat Rd. # dawn to dusk cle created by naga devotees and Insect World daily. while climbing knife ladders KH69pUKlwNVGSYG VDG$CjU r2‰ Another significant link in the during the festival. 2 miles (3 km) N of town. string of shrines that serve # 9am–5pm daily. Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival,  Provincial Hall A haven for tropical butterflies, San Chao Sang Tham is said JTGT GT$ the Phuket Butterfly Garden to be almost 200 years old. Narison Rd. breeds 40 species of butter- The shrine, a beautiful symbol This fine building, inaugurated flies from across Thailand of Chinese architecture, is by Rama VI in 1917, still each year. The accompanying decorated in a dazzling array functions as an administrative Insect World is home to a of colors. Inside is a plethora office for the governor and variety of arachnids, giant of Buddhist and Taoist divin- his staff, but is not open to millipedes, and scorpions. ities, ancestor tablets, and visitors. Originally built with clouds of incense smoke. 99 doors but no windows, Y Phuket Orchid Garden Although visitors do not it may be recognized as a and Thai Village need to take off their shoes setting from Roland Joffe’s CjU r2NNFq"1 TFqU:e6VN6:gR4EH}GUG% here, they must be modestly movie The Killing Fields 3 miles (5 km) N of town. dressed. They should avoid (1984). The outer corridor # 9am–9pm daily. standing on the threshold is adorned with a number A popular cultural center, the when entering the holy build- of framed photographs which Thai Village hosts cultural per- ing, as this is traditionally pictorially narrate the history formances and animal shows considered to bring bad luck. of Phuket. from different regions of The elaborately detailed Thailand. The village is a great  San Chao Bang Niew fretwork on the exterior is a place to buy yan lipao (reed JTGU%†T7T$UL6 EH fine example of the original grass bags) and ornaments. Phuket Rd. # dawn to dusk daily. architecture of the town. Each The nearby Phuket Orchid One of Phuket’s oldest and piece is said to have taken Garden grows and sells more most revered Chinese tem- almost six years to complete. than 40,000 orchids each year. ples, San Chao Bang Niew is thought to have been founded by migrants from Fujian in the 19th century. The temple is dedicated to Giu Ong and Yok Ong, spirits who must be invited from bang niew (the sea) at the beginning of the Vegetarian Festival to bless the community and to banish evil spirits said to dis- rupt proceedings. The inner compound of the temple is devoted to several Chinese mythological gods. The most prominent are Siew, Hok, and Lok representing longevity, power, and Façade of the grand Phuket Provincial Hall

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 225

Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival Phuket hosts a nine-day Vegetarian during the festival which includes Festival each year, at the start of dressing in white, following a veg- the ninth lunar month of the etarian diet, and abstaining from Chinese calendar. This tradition, alcohol and sex. While events are accompanied by gruesome rites, held at various temples, the high- began over 150 years ago when light of the festival is the parade a troupe of Chinese entertainers Pineapples, used of nagas (spirit mediums) as an offering in Phuket recovered from the whose flesh is pierced by metal plague by adhering to austere rituals rods. Other nagas climb ladders of practised in China. Today, believers knives, plunge their hands into hot oil, use the festival to purge the body and or walk on burning coals. The worse soul of impure thoughts and deeds. the suffering, the greater the reward is Devotees follow a 10-rule regimen said to be for the naga and his temple.

STREET PARADES The main shrines organize street parades on different days during the festival. Devotees burn fire- crackers and beat drums in order to drive away evil spirits, making these parades quite noisy and even dangerous at times.

Carriage bearers are young men of ethnic Chinese origin, who compete for the honour of carrying the festival divinities around town on their shoulders.

Deity carriages are elaborately decorated in bright red and gold – symbolic of good luck in Chinese communities.

Chui Tui temple and neighboring San Chao Put Jaw (see p222) are Commercial and privately owned two of Phuket’s most celebrated shops are set up as stalls or altars shrines. Offering tables are set outside houses or at nearby temples. up in front of the temple gates They offer cups of tea and fresh and the inner shrines. fruits to passersby and nagas.

Self mutilation involves piercing various parts of the body with sharp instruments such as knives, yet bloodshed is minimal. This gruesome ritual is a highlight of the Vegetarian Festival.

Firework displays are popular during Walking on hot coals is another the Vegetarian form of self mortification in which Festival. Loud devotees walk barefoot on a bed of crackers are burst by red-hot glowing embers. Like other devotees in the belief forms of self torture, devotees that the din will keep endure it to invoke the gods. evil spirits at bay. 226 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Mansions of Phuket The traditional architecture of Phuket is an amalgam of Sino-Thai and Portuguese styles and is similar to the 19th-century architecture found in Singapore, and Penang and Malacca in Malaysia. Shophouses began to spring up to serve Phuket’s affluent Chinese migrants and by the turn of the 20th century, these wealthy settlers started building elaborate mansions that can be seen to this day. The construction blended Chinese architecture with Western styles, ranging from Classical Greek to Art Deco and was distinguished from the local houses by its sheer size and grandeur. Opulently decorated with imported furniture and marble, these mansions reflected the status of their owners. Many have been restored and Brightly colored façades of Sino- they add a distinct character to present-day Phuket. Portuguese houses in Phuket

MANSION FAÇADES Phuket’s Sino-Portuguese mansions are called ang mor lau, or red head buildings, based on a common epithet for Europeans. Constructed with large windows and plenty of shaded spaces, these buildings were designed to ensure that the interiors stayed well ventilated and cool.

Windows often feature louvered shutters to permit Chinese characters on easy circulation of air. buildings are often stylized, indicating the wealth and influence Elaborate stucco designs decorate of Phuket’s sizeable many eaves and arches adding migrant, ethnic ornate touches as well as Chinese community. grandeur to these mansions.

Chinese-style buildings are decorated with pilasters or false pillars. These elaborate mansions have a triple- Greco-Roman motifs were widely used. arched façade common to other buildings of the time. The upper classes blended Classical and The increasingly prosperous Chinese migrants who Chinese designs creating a hybrid style climbed the social ladder usually demonstrated their that is reflected in public buildings such status through the grand houses they built. as the Thai Hua Museum. PHUKET 227

Large arches and pillars support shaded terraces and verandas, provide access to its inhabitants and visitors, as well as shelter them from the piercing tropical sun and the frequent monsoon downpours.

Birds and animals feature in elaborate and fanciful stucco designs. Swooping cranes, dragons, phoenixes, bats, stylized peacocks, and various mythological creatures are considered to be symbols of good luck.

Tiled roofs were regarded as a status symbol in Thai society where thatch or corrugated iron were the common roofing materials.

Elaborate doors and lintels characterized ang mor lau mansions, with Chinese characters prominently displayed over the door and intricate gingerbread fretwork suspended from the eaves.

PHRA PITAK CHINPRACHA MANSION Built between 1937 and 1940 for the wealthy Tantawanitj family, this large and well- preserved mansion is set in sprawling gardens. Although not open to the public, it is among the grandest red-roofed mansion in the city, reflecting the luxurious lifestyle of the erstwhile tin barons and their families.

Art Deco style became popular among Phuket’s Chinese businessmen from about 1918 onward, and was incorporated into designs used for doors and windows. Largely adopted as an imitation of European sophistication, this was Chinpracha Mansion nestled in its wooded estate part of the style statement of the nouveau riche. 228 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Phuket’s West Coast L Hat Kata Noi LT1 S2S6†NE Phuket owes its fame to the beauty, warmth, and 10 miles (16 km) SW of Phuket safety of its beaches, nearly all of which are situated town. 0 = on the island’s western, Andaman Coast, which The beach at Ao Kata, or Kata runs from Hat Nai Harn in the south to Hat Bay, is divided into Kata Noi, Sai Kaeo in the north. Hat Patong is among or Little Kata, to the south the best-known beaches and boasts a glitzy, and Kata Yai, or Big Kata, to the north. Hat Kata Noi is sybaritic nightlife, unlike the risque indul- undoubtedly one of the livelier Mask and gence of Pattaya (see pp104–8), and the more beaches on Phuket. A great snorkel sedate Karon and Kata beaches. Hat Mai place for young travelers who Khao, in northwest Phuket, remains the will enjoy the vibrant atmo- island’s quietest beach with rare sea turtles – which are sphere and delectable local being encouraged by local ecologists to return to the food the beach has to offer, beaches – nesting there from time to time. All of Hat Kata Noi also attracts the Phuket’s west coast offers a fine choice of accommo- bohemian vacationer who prefers to stay away from the dations, dining, and watersports, as well as mesmerizing crowds. The beach at Kata views especially toward dusk when the sun sets across Noi is more deserted than the the idyllic waters of the Andaman Sea. one at Kata Yai, but is well equipped with comfortable accommodations, a fine selec- tion of some of the best restaurants and cafés on the island, as well as facilities for watersports and other outdoor activities.

L Hat Kata Yai LT1 S2SXL*€ 10 miles (16 km) SW of Phuket town. 0 = Like Hat Kata Noi, Hat Kata Yai is also popular for its snorkeling, diving, shopping, and exquisite food. Sheltered by rocky promontories, the sea here is quite shallow for nearly 100 ft (30 m) offshore, making access to coral reefs, Pristine waters with the Royal Phuket Yatch Club in background, Hat Nai Harn and their colorful accom- panying marine life, easier L Hat Nai Harn commercial activity away. Set and safer than anywhere else LT1X6LT6‰ back from the beach are two on the island. Ko Pu, or Crab 11 miles (18 km) SW of Phuket beautiful lagoons surrounded Island, lies a short distance off town. 0 = www.tourism by coconut palms, rubber Laem Sai, which separates the thailand.org trees, and brightly colored two beaches. A tiny island, Crisp white sands and clear bougainvillea. This spot is fre- Ko Pu has its own coral reef offshore waters make Hat Nai quented by visitors looking which can be easily reached Harn one of Phuket’s most for cheaper accommodations. by boat or by swimming. attractive beaches. Its relative Hat Nai Harn is not suitable tranquility, when compared to for offshore swimming during the bustle and development the southwest monsoon from of nearby Hat Patong in par- June to September when ticular, comes at a price – Hat waves can be high and com- Nai Harn is not aimed at the pletely unpredictable. Bright budget traveler. Restaurants red flags warn swimmers of and cafés at Hat Nai Harn are dangerous swimming condi- also exclusive and expensive, tions. However, the beach is with uniformly high standards. excellent for sunbathing and The beach is dominated by swimming in shallow waters. the exclusive Royal Phuket The prestigious Phuket’s Yacht Club (see p308). Much King’s Cup Regatta, an exciting of Hat Nai Harn is owned by yachting event with interna- the Buddhist foundation tional participants, is held on Samnak Song Nai Harn, which the beach each year in Visitors sunbathing on beach chairs, has helped to keep all major December (see p37). Hat Kata Yai

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 229

Vacationers sunbathing and jet-skiing on the pretty beach at Hat Karon

L Hat Karon between two headlands, is crescent-shaped expanse of LT1 SF6 a shallow bay backed by the white sand, Hat Patong is set 12 miles (19 km) SW of Phuket small and picturesque Hat magically between low, palm- town. 0 = Karon Noi. To the south of covered hills and the clear A long, gently curving beach this beach lies a fine coral blue waters of the Andaman with almost 3 miles (5 km) of reef, great for snorkeling. Sea. Dotted with a confusingly pristine white sand, Hat Completely dominated by large choice of guesthouses, Karon usually does not wit- the exclusive upscale hotels, restaurants, cafés, ness too much commercial Le Meridien Phuket banks, shops, and activity, except during the (see p307), an bars – including go- peak season, when it gets expensive place by go bars – it is more slightly crowded. any standards, Hat reminiscent of Pattaya Although the northern part Karon Noi can be Sign at a and Patpong (see p74) of the beach is not worth a reached by road from restaurant than Phuket. The visit, the southern end, where either Hat Karon to beach offers a wide most restaurants, cafés, and the south, or busy Hat Patong range of watersports includ- hotels line the beachfront, is to the north. ing water-skiing, jet-skiing, quite pleasant. The beach is parasailing, windsurfing, backed by a heady mix of L Hat Patong fishing, and sailing. small sand dunes, coconut LT18€T2N$ Here visitors will find palms, and casuarina trees. 10 miles (16 km) W of Phuket town. enough to keep themselves This is also the section where 0 = entertained. It also has its fair some of the most upscale Heavily developed and with share of restaurants offering a accommodations on the beach an active nightlife, Hat Patong variety of cuisines. Authentic are located, although reason- is one of the most popular Thai food, however, may be ably priced bungalows are beach destinations on Phuket hard to come by; so those also available. Visitors can and is always bustling with keen to experience the local partake of some of the most visitors. A 2-mile (3-km) long, flavors must head for Phuket deliciously fresh seafood on town (see pp222–5). By night, the beach and while their Hat Patong is the busy nerve prices are not the lowest on center of Phuket’s increasingly the west coast, there is usually risqué nightlife, especially something available to suit in the central area around most budgets. Soi Bangla. During the rainswept Visitors who might want to months of the southwest escape from the overwhelm- monsoon, swimming off the ing activities on Hat Patong beach can be affected by for a while, can head for the sharp currents and dangerous quieter Freedom Beach just undertows, sometimes neces- round the southern tip of Hat sitating the flying of warning Patong. This beach is only flags. Most of the time, accessible by boat from however, the high waves that Patong. A short distance to sweep across the bay are the north, Hat Kalim, an good for surfing, particularly extension of Hat Patong, is at the southern end where another quiet retreat with boards can be hired. Just to Breathtaking view of the clear waters and corals – home the north of Karon, sheltered beachfront and skyline, Hat Patong to a variety of marine life. 230 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

pause at Khao Phanturat, a hill, from which they can enjoy magnificent vistas of Hat Kamala’s 2-mile (3-km) sweep of dazzling white sands, azure ocean, and tall, casuarina trees. The sea, especially near the northern end of the beach, is well known for its clear waters, with the colorful coral reefs lying not far off- shore. This makes Hat Kamala an excellent place for snor- keling and diving enthusiasts. To the center of Hat Kamala lies an authentic Muslim fishing village, with a couple of mosques and a few restau- rants serving excellent Thai, Muslim, and southern . The locals are very warm and friendly, but vis- itors should remember to dress respectably in the village – no bikinis or thongs, and certainly no topless displays – particularly in the vicinity of the mosques. Entrance to Phuket Fantasea, amid lush mountains L Hat Laem Singh  Phuket FantaSea Phuket FantaSea is all about VLGDK^$Lg CjU r2VB62T( ‰ showtime extravaganza – a 15 miles (24 km) W of Phuket town. 16 miles (26 km) W of Phuket town. good place for children. 0 Tel 0-7638-5000. # 6pm–11:30pm Just a stone’s throw north of Fri–Wed. & ^ 0 = www. L Hat Kamala Hat Kamala, beyond a small, phuket-fantasea.com LT1 DGT rocky headland, is tiny Hat Phuket FantaSea is billed as 16 miles (26 km) W of Phuket town. Laem Singh, concealed from a cultural theme park which, 0 = both Hat Kamala and the at a fairly steep price, offers A relaxed beach, in marked coastal road by palm-covered displays of traditional Thai contrast to nearby Patong, Hat hills. The approach is by way dances on an elaborate, Kamala is a popular destina- of a narrow footpath, leading Angkor-inspired with tion for those seeking a quiet to about 640 ft (195 m) of sophisticated sound systems time sunbathing on the white pristine, white sand and some and state-of-the-art lighting. sands or swimming in the of the best snorkeling and There are plenty of souvenir clear waters with little else for scuba diving sites off Phuket shops and places to eat and distraction. Ao Kamala, argua- island. Facilities on this beach drink, such as a 4,000-seater bly Phuket’s prettiest bay, can are limited, especially com- buffet restaurant, which be easily reached by a 10- pared to Hat Patong, but so serves royal Thai cuisine, in minute drive from the beach. are the number of hawkers, an enchanting forest setting. On the way, visitors can and masseurs.

Sweeping white sands, ideal for sunbathing, Hat Kamala

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 231

access to some of the best diving and snorkeling on the island.

L Hat Bang Thao LT17T$U4T 13 miles (21 km) W of Phuket town. 0 = Immediately to the north of Ao Pansea, Hat Bang Thao is as broad and wide a sweep of white coral sand as the former is small. Fringed with casuarina and palm trees, this crescent- shaped beach is breathtakingly beautiful and stretches for 5 miles (8 km), and is hugely popular with visitors. The central part of the bay is dominated by a luxurious Pontoon used for swimming and diving, Hat Surin resort, the Laguna Beach Resort (see p307), which is L Hat Surin of the same name are among actually a group of several LT1KiF^64Fs the best locations on Phuket. interdependent hotels set on 14 miles (22 km) W of Phuket town. The beach is also one of the the banks of a placid lagoon. 0 = most exclusive spots and the It has several attractive gar- Like Hat Kamala nearby, Hat accommodations are similarly dens complete with artificial Surin is much quieter and less pricey. Ao Pansea is more waterfalls, and every conve- developed than Hat Patong. or less the private preserve nience and luxury With the beach running down of two world-class conceivable. to the warm waters of the establishments – Hat Bang Thao is the Andaman Sea, it is a great The Chedi and the site of the Phuket place to sunbathe and relax. Amanpuri (see p307) – Laguna Triatholon, However, it is not recom- which jointly control held here every mended for swimming and access to the beach. December. In addition to diving because the beach Amanpuri Resort, in the usual watersports slopes quite steeply, making particular, draws a lot The vibrant facilities, the bay is for treacherous currents and a of celebrities who find Hibiscus flower also home to the palpable undertow during the it a glamorous retreat. exclusive Phuket wet southwest monsoon from Ao Pansea, blessed with a Laguna Riding Club, a good June to September. beautiful coral reef, provides place for horseback riding. A Hat Surin is also a good quiet getaways in the form of constant sea breeze makes place to drink and dine, espe- upscale, and relatively private the bay ideal for windsurfing. cially in the evenings after the sun goes down. There are dozens of inexpensive food joints lining the beach which dish out some of the best seafood in Phuket. The beach is also home to the most attractive mosque on the west coast, the tiny but pleasing Matsayit Mukaram, which is open for visitors at all times except during prayers. Visitors however, must remember to dress appropriately before visiting the mosque. A golf course overlooking the beach is located nearby.

L Ao Pansea N€THVA6(p About 14 miles (22 km) W of Phuket town. 0 = Separated from Hat Surin by a small headland, Ao Pansea and the accompanying beach View of the exclusive Laguna Beach Resort, Hat Bang Thao 232 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Beach restaurant overlooking the gorgeous bay at Hat Nai Yang

O Sirinath National Park Nature Trail is part of the and English explain the Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^J^F^6T3 island’s Sirinath National Park. ecology of the region. The 19 miles (31 km) NW of Phuket The trail is located 2,250 ft surroundings swarm with all town. n Park HQ (0-7632-7152). (686 m) south of the Sarasin kinds of wildlife that include # dawn to dusk daily. = Bridge which connects fiddler crabs, shrimps, small Covering an area of 29 sq Phuket to the mainland. It fish and the occasional crab- miles (75 sq km) on water, winds through the mangroves eating macaque monkey. and 9 sq miles (23 sq km) on giving visitors an insight into land, this small national park its complex ecosystem. There L Hat Nai Yang was inaugurated in 1981, with are a handful of simple guest- LT1X6ET$‰ the primary objective of houses and restaurants in the Sirinath National Park. 0 = conserving the offshore coral village of Ban Thatchatchai. A gorgeous bay with a beach reefs. The sandy beaches near The trail itself is just 640 yards shaded by pine trees, Hat Nai the northern boundary of the (600 m) long, and follows a Yang is pristine and quiet. park are protected territory as raised wooden walkway The park headquarters for they are a nesting ground for through the mangrove Sirinath National Park are also various species of marine swamp. Signs written in Thai located on this beach. This is turtles. On land, the park is little more than a narrow strip of sand running between Hat Sai Kaeo in the north and Hat Nai Yang to the south. There are numerous species of trees lining the coast including ironwood and screwpine. There are also large tracts of mangrove forest near the northern end of the park which support a diverse eco- system. The area is known for birds such as mynahs and the Asian fairy bluebird.

} Thachatchai Nature Trail 4T$U1^6U4wT4€T&2FW'E‰ Sirinath National Park. # 8:30am– 2:30 pm daily. 0 = Named after the tiny fishing village on the northwestern shores of Phuket, Thachatchai Stream running through the mangrove forest at Sirinath National Park

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 233

a great place for a picnic with a long coral reef, located less than a mile offshore that is ideal for snorkeling. However, it is recommended for good swimmers as the currents can get quite strong. Enthusiastic visitors can hire a boat to experience the beauty of the surroundings in comfort and safety. This beach is still untouched by commercial development although there are some chic beach cafés, bars, as well as a few upscale spas. Travelers can also camp here without a permit.

L Hat Mai Khao Tall trees lining the walking trails at Sirinath National Park. LT1WDw!TH‰ Sirinath National Park. 0 = steeply into the sea, and only Improved roads to this beach Situated within the precincts strong swimmers should ven- have brought in some devel- of Sirinath National Park, Hat ture in, especially during the opment. However, Hat Nai Mai Khao stretches for over rainy season from June to Thon retains its untouched 6 miles (10 km), and is the September. Visitors can try the charm with small, inexpensive longest sandy beach on seafood at the beach shacks bungalows as well as a hand- Phuket. It is also known as or splurge on any of the res- ful of restaurants, cafés, bars, Hat Sanambin, or Airport taurants at the upscale Marriot and shops at the northern Beach, due to its proximity to Resort and Spa. end. Both the northern and the Phuket airport. Hat Mai southern extremities of the Khao is still off the tourist L Hat Nai Thon bay are protected by large map, and is quite tranquil LT1X64N6 granite outcrops. These rocks and untouched, especially Sirinath National Park. 0 = shield the bay providing a when compared to the more One of the more secluded home to many species of developed and commercial beaches on Phuket, Hat Nai marine flora and fauna and southern beaches. Although Thon is set along a pictur- are ideal spots for fishing. A construction is controlled in esque bay. This half-mile few hundred meters south, this protected area, camping (1-km) long beach served beyond a low headland lies is permitted at several by the Nai Thon fishing Ao Hin Kruai, a quiet and locations and is a popular village is gradually adapting deserted bay for travelers option for many travelers to Phuket’s tourism industry. seeking solitude. especially backpackers. This is a famous nesting site for sea turtles who come onshore in hordes to lay their eggs during the cool season from November to February. During this period visitors can see them on the beach at night and also in the sur- rounding waters. Although the authorities are maintaining a careful watch over the area, the efforts are slightly belated and the number of turtles visiting Hat Mai Khao have diminished in the recent years. Every year from the beginning of the Songkran festival (see p34), baby turtles bred in tanks are released into the sea. Hat Mai Khao is also home to sea cicadas, a kind of crus- tacean which is prepared as a delicious snack around this area. The beach is great for sunbathing, but it shelves Azure waters surround the long sandy beach, Hat Mai Khao 234 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Phuket’s East Coast island’s history. There are five exhibition halls that Overlooking the calm waters of the Anda- cover various aspects of the man Sea, Phuket’s east coast is divided into history, ethnic diversity, the southeast; facing Ao Chalong and lying to economy, and the ecology the south of Phuket town, and the northeast; of Phuket. The museum also stretching north of Phuket town right up to has displays on the island’s Chinese pond the mainland. The island’s good roads and tin mining history as well as heron on ancient art. A 9th-century availability of different modes of transporta- image of Vishnu, part of the tion such as buses, cars, and boats make traveling easy. Hindu holy trinity, discovered Visitors can choose among options ranging from water- at Takua Pa (see p208) in the sports to exotic cuisine, national parks to deserted early 20th century, is an beaches, and ancient temples to museums. The north- impressive exhibit. However, eastern coast is undeveloped; yet, the main road the original head has long between Phuket town and the mainland passes through been lost and has since been it, making the region crucial to the island. Ao Chalong replaced by a substitute in gray sandstone. The exhibits and Thalang are other well-developed areas. showcasing the famous Battle of Thalang where Burmese invaders were repulsed by Khun Chan and Khun Muk are also noteworthy.

Heroines’ Monument N6iKTHF EgH FK2F 5 miles (8 km) SE of Thalang. 0 = This life-sized monument, built by the locals, is dedi- cated to the sisters – Khun Muk and Khun Chan – for driving Burmese invaders out of Phuket in 1785. They rallied the women of Phuket together and convinced them Showcasing Phuket’s history and artifacts, Thalang National Museum to dress in men’s clothes and carry fake weapons to drive Thalang busy and interesting market the Burmese army out. As a 3GT$ for fresh produce. The town reward for their bravery, they 11 miles (18 km) N of Phuket town. is a good base to explore the were given titles by Rama I 0 = nearby beaches and islands. (r.1782–1809). Located in the center of the island, Thalang was once the  Thalang National Museum  Wat Phra Nang Sang capital of Phuket; in fact the A^A^^5C0.gK3T6VL€$'T2^3GT$ H1AFS6T$KFwT$ island itself was called Route 4027, 5 miles (8 km) SE of 3 miles (5 km) S of Thalang. Thalang till the late 19th Thalang. Tel 0-7631-1426. # dawn to dusk daily. century. With the emergence # 8:30am–4pm daily. & = This temple was supposedly of Phuket town further to the Phuket’s main museum, the founded in the 19th century south, Thalang was soon Thalang National Museum, is by a charitable local lady and eclipsed and, today, serves worth a visit for a fairly com- is also known as Phra Nang more or less as a junction prehensive insight into the Sang, literally, Built by the town. However, it still is one of the larger settlements on the island astride the central north-south Highway 402, leading from Phuket town to the mainland. The town has quite a few cultural attractions which draw visitors here. Notable sights include two highly revered temples – Wat Phra Nang Sang and Wat Phra Thong – both of which house very old Buddha images. Apart from this, there are a few simple restaurants serving local cuisine, and a Mural representing myths from Buddhist cosmology, Wat Phra Nang Sang

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 235

all of southern Thailand and attracts devotees from as far afield as Trang (see p264) and Krabi (see p244).

O Khao Phra Taew National Park Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^U!TAFSV4H 3 miles (5 km) E of Thalang town. n Park HQ (0-7631-1998). # dawn to dusk. & = Gibbon Rehabilitation Center Tel 0-7626-0491. # 9am–4pm daily. & donations. = www.gibbonproject.org The last of Phuket’s once ubiquitous rain forest is preserved at the Khao Phra Taew National Park. Within the park lies the island’s largest and grandest waterfall, Bang Pae, which is best seen Main wihan containing Budhha image at Wat Phra Thong in its full glory during the southwest monsoon from Revered Lady. Legend says punished for his deed. Upon June to September. that after a pilgrimage to Sri hearing this story, a local The 1-mile (2-km) long Lanka, she wanted to express landowner ordered the image hiking trail winds its way right her gratitude for her safe to be excavated and installed through the forest which is return. Thus, she sponsored in a temple. However, despite home to Kerriodoxa elegans – the construction of this tem- the villagers’ best efforts, the a species of palm which is ple. Later, however, she image could not be fully unique to this forest. somehow came into conflict dug out, and remained Visitors should dress with a local ruler who con- buried from the shoul- appropriately to avoid demned her to death. At the ders down. Thereafter, being bitten by beheading her blood appar- a roof was erected to insects. The Gibbon ently flowed white reflecting shelter the exposed Rehabilitation Center, a her purity. Today, the temple head and shoulders, and project set up in 1992 by is famous for its collection of since then the temple Phuket’s Royal Forest religious statuary as well as has become an impor- Department, is also the murals in the main wihan. tant site of worship located within Khao for both local Thais Gilded Buddha figure Phra Taew. The  Wat Phra Thong as well as Chinese at Wat Phra Thong main initiative H1AFS4N$ migrants. The latter teaches gibbons Route 402, 3 miles (5 km) N of believe that the image was reared in captivity to survive Thalang. # dawn to dusk daily. brought from Tibet and in the wild. The center also Thalang’s other well-known installed on the island of aims to stop the illegal use of Buddhist temple is Wat Phra Phuket after a shipwreck. these animals as tourist attrac- Thong, or the Temple of the Today, the wat is among tions. Visitors are encouraged Golden Buddha. This unusual the most venerated Buddhist to donate money and “adopt temple is named after the sites not just in Phuket, but in a gibbon” to help the cause. gilded Buddha image that is buried within the temple precincts so that only its head and shoulders are visible above ground. According to an ancient legend, a local cowherd attempted to tether one of his charges to an out- crop he mistook for a tree stump. This actually was the (topknot) of a buried Buddha image. Both boy and buffalo unfortunately died for the unintentional heresy. Later, the boy’s father had a dream in which he saw that his son had achieved nirvana instead of being Gibbon learning to survive in the wild, Gibbon Rehabilitation Center 236 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Phuket Aquarium houses over 150 different species of marine life. The interactive display covers endangered coral reefs, mangrove swamps, tidal estuaries, rivers, and lakes. The most popular attraction, however, is the long walk-through glass tun- nel tank which houses electric eels, sting rays, cuttlefish, and a host of other marine life. The idea is to provide visitors with a fun experience as well as create awareness about the coastal environment.

Ko Hai U TSWL Boats lined up in front of a popular bar, Ao Chalong 13 miles (21 km) S of Phuket town. g from Hat Rawai. 0 = } Ao Chalong temple which houses relics of A picturesque and deserted N€TH&GN$ the Buddha. The extensive island, Ko Hai, also known as 6 miles (10 km) SE of Phuket town. temple grounds and buildings Coral Island, is an idyllic spot. 0 = include a cruciform mondop Visitors can enjoy modern A dominant geographical containing images of former amenites at the upscale Coral feature of this region, Ao abbots, photographs, local Island Resort (see p307) with Chalong is located between historical and religious a swimming pool and a dive Laem Promthep and Laem paraphernalia; an ubosot, a center or try out the cafés and Phanwa. Sheltered from the cremation hall, as well as a restaurants in the vicinity. Andaman Sea by the hilly funeral sala (open pavilion). Swimming, snorkeling, wind- Ko Lon, the bay has clusters A lifelike waxen image of surfing, and parasailing are of bungalows, hotels, and Luang Pho Saem in saffron other attractions on this restaurants stretching from robes is on display in the island. Day trips to Ko Hai Ao Chalong pier to Hat Rawai kuti (monks’ quarters). can be organized by any along Phuket’s western shore. Wat Chalong attracts many travel agent or dive center in The nearby Chalong Yacht pilgrims and is busiest dur- Phuket town or Ao Chalong. Club organizes weekly races ing the annual temple fair This is a good dive spot and yachting events. The held in mid-December. with high visibility. The shoreline along the bay is small fishing village at Ko quite muddy and unsuitable  Phuket Aquarium Lon is an interesting stop- for swimming. However, Ao CjU rr2NS"HTUF ED over en route. Chalong is an ideal base for 51, Moo 8, Sakdidet Rd, Cape fishing, diving, and swimming Panwa. Tel 0-76 39-1126. Ko Kaeo Pisadan to the offshore islands. # 8:30am–4:30pm (last entry U TSV †HA^K1TF‰ 4pm) daily. & 8 0 = 12 miles (19 km) S of Phuket  Wat Chalong www.phuketaquarium.org town. g from Hat Rawai. H1&GN$i Located on Laem Panwa 0 = 6 miles (10 km) SE of Phuket town. and part of the An idyllic little island, = _ Temple fair (Dec) Phuket Marine Ko Kaeo Pisadan, The best-known temple in Biological also known as Phuket, Wat Chalong dates Center, the Ko Kaeo Yai, is back to the early 19th cen- tury. Also known as Wat Chaiyataramit, the temple was granted royal status in 1846. Luang Pho Saem, the celebrated abbot of the temple, was a noted local healer who died in 1908. His successors have main- tained his reputation for healing. The most striking structure in the temple is its tall gilded chedi, constructed in 2001, and built in the style of the Tat Phanom chedi – northeast Thailand’s famous Ornate gilded chedi housing the Buddha relic at Wat Chalong

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and p328–31 PHUKET 237

Palm trees cover the headland overlooking a wide expanse of sea at Laem Promthep located off Phuket’s southern since been replaced by the stopping at Hat Rawai for a headland, in the clear blue more appealing west coast rather appropriately named waters of the Andaman Sea. beaches. Today, it is better “sundowner” and dinner and Day trips to this island are known as an out-of-town then head back into town. possible from Hat Rawai on dinner destination for those the east coast, and Hat Nai staying in Phuket town, } Laem Promthep Harn (see p228) on the west and is justly celebrated for VLGDAFLDU4A‰ coast. Boat rides from both its seafood restaurants and 11 miles (18 km) S of Phuket spots offer fine views of upscale bars. Visitors can town. = Laem Promthep on the way. experience a little of the An imposing rocky headland, Ko Kaeo Pisadan is a tiny bustling excitement and Laem Promthep projects island with a single fine entertainment of Hat Patong southwest into the Andaman 642-ft (196-m) long beach. here. One of the local attrac- Sea. Locally known as Laem The whole island can be tions here is the Phuket Jao, or Cape of the Gods, this traversed on foot and its Seashell Museum with a place offers the island’s most shallow waters and offshore large collection of seashells famous sunset view and is coral reefs make it an ideal from Thailand and around the popular with Thais and snorkeling spot. Visitors can world. Those eager to explore foreigners alike. There are also kayak right around the nearby islands rather than food and drink stalls, shops, island. There is a small resort look for entertainment in res- and a car park. A lighthouse offering simple and comforta- taurants and bars, tend to skip marks the southwestern ble accommodations with a Hat Rawai and go directly to extremity of the island and restaurant specializing in sea- Laem Promthep. visitors can get a 360 degree food and Thai specialties. A small community of chao view across the sea. A rocky Smoking is banned at the lae, or sea gypsies (see p204), path leads down to the water, resort, and elsewhere on the also live here, but they are and offers good views of Ko island. The resort also offers rather shy and keep to them- Kaeo Pisadan. However, the camping facilities. selves. Visitors often travel to surrounding waters are not The island also has an Laem Promthep to see the good for swimming, as the isolated monastery – Wat Ko spectacular sunset, before currents get quite fierce. Kaeo Pisadan – which attracts Thai Buddhist pilgrims. The wat sustains a small number of monks who are permanent inhabitants of this island. Visitors should dress appro- priately at this sacred spot.

L Hat Rawai LT1FTWH‰ 10 miles (16 km) from Phuket town. 0 = Phuket Seashell Museum12/2, Moo 2, Wiset Road, Hat Rawai. Tel 0-7638-1266. # 8am–6pm daily. & = One of the main beaches of southeastern Phuket, Hat Rawai was once a major attraction of Phuket, but has Fishing boats belonging to the chao lae community, Hat Rawai 238 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Phuket’s Outlying Islands There are about 39 islands scattered across the Andaman Sea, mainly on Phuket’s east coast. These are either uninhabited or

Fresh, green home to small communities of Thai fisher- coconuts men and coconut farmers. Despite relative isolation and tranquility, change is slowly approaching these islands. Some, such as Ko Racha Yai, have already attracted exclusive and luxurious resorts while others, such as Ko Yao Yai, remain off the tourist track, catering mainly to backpackers. These islands can be visited on a day trip or on weekend trips by taking fishing boats, ferries, or longtailed speedboats from various harbors and piers on and around Phuket. However, Ao Chalong still remains the most popular jumping-off point to reach these islands. Thai Muslim fisherman perched on his boat, Hat Yao Noi

Ko Yao Yai laid-back, as are the few Hat Yao, or Long Beach, is U TSETHXL*€ restaurants and cafés. Most of located on the eastern shore 9 miles (14 km) E of Phuket. the population – and most facing the mainland. 4 from Bang Rong. 0 = activities – are centered in the The interior of the island Located within the boundaries south of the island, especially provides plenty of opportu- of Phang Nga province, Ko around Lohjak pier, which is nities for short treks between Yao Yai is the larger, albeit served by boat from the the small villages, past patches less crowded, of the two Ko Phuket town pier. Small boats of forest, shrimp farms, green Yao islands. The island is also ply on a regular basis rice fields, and unfrequented characterized by a long and between Chonglad pier on coves. Another popular pas- irregular coastline, small the island’s northeast coast time is sea-kayaking, along fishing villages, coconut and and Manok pier near the the island’s irregular and rubber plantations, and small southern tip of neighboring indented coast as well as to areas of rice paddy. Ensconced Ko Yao Noi. other offshore islets. in a rural setting, it is a far cry Accommodations are from the bustling beaches on Ko Yao Noi plentiful and cheap. There Phuket’s west coast and an U TSETH6†NE are several restaurants and excellent place to sit back, 12 miles (19 km) E of Phuket. bars along the east coast, as relax, and enjoy a bit of 4 from Bang Rong. 0 = well as at Tha Kai, the island’s authentic Thai rural life. Located in the Andaman Sea tiny capital. There are, as yet, no major almost equidistant from the resorts on Ko Yao Yai, so its beach resorts of Phuket, Ko Racha Yai infrastructure remains quite Phang Nga (see p216) and U TSFT'TXL*€ basic with poor and undevel- Krabi (see p244), Ko Yao Noi 9 miles (14 km) S of Phuket. oped roads. It is possible to is about 8 miles (13 km) long. 4 from Ao Chalong. 0 = hire a motorcycle on the This island is a quiet getaway Also known as Ko Raya Yai, island, but many visitors pre- with an indigenous population Ko Racha Yai’s chief attrac- fer to bring one across with of over 3,000, many of them tions are the two beaches at them on the boat from Thai Muslims, who make a Ao Patok and Ao Siam as well Phuket. Guesthouses and living by fishing and coconut as the good offshore diving. bungalows are simple and farming. Its main beach, The island also has several resorts offering comfortable bungalow accommodations. The largest and most luxuri- ous of these, The Racha, dominates Ao Patok. Just 5 miles (8 km) farther south is Ko Racha Noi, also a fine diving spot. The island is under the aegis of the Royal Thai Navy, which sometimes restricts access, but permits offshore diving among the unspoiled coral reefs. In fact, both islands have fine, hard coral reefs which are suitable for all grades Breathtaking expanse of sand and sea at Ko Racha Yai of divers.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–8 and pp328–31 PHUKET 239

Pearls of the Andaman Sea Chanthaburi may have its rare compete internationally with other gems, and Bangkok’s Yaowarat established major sources such as District (see p72) may be dotted Japan and the Persian Gulf. with gold shops, but Phuket is justly Cultured pearls now play a very famous for its spectacular mook important role in the island’s econ- andaman (Andaman Sea pearls). omy, and the island has several Originally, they were a natural pearl companies. Some of these product, harvested from the Fine pair of companies allow visitors to tour shallow waters around the pearl earrings their pearl farms and also give island on a purely ad hoc basis, demonstrations of pearl culture but this is not the case anymore. Over and harvesting. The 2004 tsunami, the past three decades, Phuket has however, adversely affected the indus- emerged as a major player in the cul- try by causing large numbers of tured pearl business, growing to oysters to be washed away.

CULTIVATING PEARLS Pearl cultivation involves raising oysters in a tank until they are large enough to be placed in the sea. These oysters are then injected with an artificial irritant. After 3–4 years, sometimes longer, a cultured pearl is produced. However, this is not an error-free process since only five percent of the nucleated pearls ever become jewelry.

Pearl oysters are made by planting a nucleus or core, inside their shells. This is harvested after a few years.

Pearl extraction is carried out with the help of chemicals and machines which remove the pearl by tearing open the pearl sac. Harvested pearls Pearl farms are generally located are then washed, polished, in shallow waters, making the and graded for sale purposes. Andaman Sea, off the east coast of Phuket, an ideal place for the process.

Jewelry stores in Phuket sell pearls that are locally produced, cultured, and polished. Visitors can choose from a wide and spar- Visitors to pearl farms can ask for guided kling range of tours. Such trips include seafood, dining, products, includ- and visiting showrooms selling locally ing necklaces. produced pearls.

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 241

LOWER ANDAMAN COAST

ong regarded as the lesser developed counterpart of the Upper Andaman Coast, the Lower Andaman Coast is now a region of Llimitless possibilities. From the verdant islands of Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta to the idyllic beaches around Krabi and Trang, it has become popular for its diving, snorkeling, and rock climbing. Further south, however, both the Malay-Muslim fishing port of Satun, and the pristine Ko Tarutao are still off the beaten track and relatively quiet.

The long, serrated coastline of the which is a specialty in many Lower Andaman Coast, extend- restaurants in Trang. Ko Phi ing from Krabi to the Malaysian Phi, with its romantic environs frontier is a lush, fertile region. and truly outstanding scenic Blessed with stunning natural beauty, offers some of the best beauty, it is a heady mix of diving in the area, and is now firmly white or golden sand beaches on the tourist trail. Visitors wanting and towering limestone sand and sun without the crowds outcrops. The vegetation head for relatively undeveloped comprises tall, swaying casuarinas islands such as Ko Lanta. and coconut palms, dense rain Few venture as far south as forests and rubber plantations, as Satun, a peaceful and laid-back well as green paddy fields. town with the highest number of Gorgeous and unspoiled, the Thai Muslims in the country. Satun region is frequented by travelers who also serves as the gateway to the head for towns such as Krabi and spectacular Ko Tarutao Marine Trang, popular destinations for National Park and its outlying islands, watersports and rock climbing. Home within easy sight of Pulau to a substantial Chinese ethnic and the west coast of Malaysia. population, both towns offer visitors – The southwest monsoon, which in addition to the Sino-Thai lasts from June to September, architecture – an exciting variety of however, makes outlying islands such eating options including dim sum as Ko Lipe and Ko Rawi inaccessible.

Macaques grooming each other on the grounds of Wat Tham Seua, near Krabi

Holiday-makers relaxing on the stunning beach at Hat Tham Phra Nang, Krabi 242 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Lower Andaman Coast Breathtaking natural beauty, verdant rain forests and ,IBP 5P stunning beaches beckon visitors to the Lower Andaman 1IVLFU Coast. The tropical mangrove forests, home to a variety 1MBJQIBZB 4VSBU 5IBOJ of land and water animals, are one of the region’s best #P kept secrets. Quiet Krabi combines fine beaches with 4FBO spectacular cliff landscapes. The idyllic island scenery "P-VL "P-VL/VB of Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta is also accessible from 5)"/#0,,03"/&& /"5*0/"-1"3, Krabi. The Trang coast and Tarutao archipelago, with -BFN4BL sandy beaches and fine corals, still remain relatively untouristed due to undeveloped facilities. National parks ,)"01)"/0.#&/$)" 0HANG.GA /"5*0/"-1"3, such as Hat Chao Mai, Thale Ban, and Ko Phetra are a "AY 8"5 haven for all kinds of marine animals and wildlife, 5)".4&6" besides providing ideal trails for trekking and nature 5)"10. walks. Visitors will also find plenty of opportunity for ,3"#* sea-kayaking, diving, and snorkeling from the islands of ."/(307&4 Ko Hai, Ko Kradan, and Ko Muk. ,3"#*$0"45 ,0 !O.ANG ,-"/(

,04*#0:"

,0+6.

GETTING AROUND ,01)*1)* Most visitors to the Lower Andaman Coast make use of the airports at Trang and Krabi. Reliable air-conditioned buses link these towns with Bangkok and farther south with Satun. Both Krabi and Trang make suitable bases for exploring the region by hired car in the absence of a railway network. Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta, Ko Tarutao, and Ko Bulon Leh are all on ferry routes. Longtail boats are the best way to explore the smaller bays and waterways. Satun’s port can also be used to reach Longtail boats anchored in the waters off Ko Muk Malaysia’s Langkawi archipelago by boat.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns and Villages Ko Phetra Marine Ko Lanta pp260–63 t Krabi 1 National Park k h Pak Bara l Ko Tarutao Marine National Ko Muk f Satun x Park pp270–75 v Ko Phi Phi pp252–5 9 Trang u Thale Ban National Park c Ko Si Boya w Than Bok Koranee Ko Sukorn j Areas of Natural beauty National Park 3 Krabi Coast pp248–51 8 Mangroves 6 Tha Pom 5 Beaches and Islands Museums and Religious Sites Hat Chang Lang o Wat Khlong Thom Nua National Parks Hat Pak Meng i Museum 0 Hat Chao Mai Hat Yao s Wat Tham Seua 2 National Park p Hat Yong Ling a Khao Nor Chuchi Ko Bubu r Wildlife Sanctuary q Ko Bulon Leh z Khao Phanom Bencha Ko Hai d National Park 4 Ko Jum e Ko Lanta Marine Ko Klang 7 National Park y Ko Kradan g

For additional map symbols see back flap LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 243

SEE ALSO • Where to Stay pp308–11 • Where to Eat pp331–3

,IBP1IBOPN 0 km 10 4JO 1VO 0 miles 10

/VFB ,IMPOH -BN5IBQ

/BLIPO4J 8"5,)-0/(5)0. 5IBNNBSBU #BO /6".64&6. 3BUTBEB -BFN ,SVBU ,)"0/03$)6$)* 8*-%-*'&4"/$56"3: )VBJ/BN 1SV ,IBP "V5IPOH Rock climbing on precipitous cliffs at Hat Rai Leh ,MBN ,IMPOH1IPO ,IBP,PQ )VBJ:PU KEY

4BJ,IBP . Major road

)VB)JO #BO,IVBO 8BOH A 8JTFU Minor road ,VO K /BN5IBN H Railway line /BN5IBN /VB ,0-"/5" O ,0#6#6 5BJ 4JLBP #BOH3BL N International border ,0-"/5"."3*/&  53"/( Peak /"5*0/"-1"3, +HAO2ON  1BL.FOH  FT M 3 I )"51",.&/(  $IBOH-BOH 4 )"5$)"/(-"/( /POH#P ,0)"* H ,0.6, )"5$)"0."*/"5*0/"-1"3, A )"5:0/(-*/( :BO5B M ,IBP ,0,3"%"/ )"5:"0 M 4BN A +O2OK ,0-*#0/( :BFO R .AI A 1BMJBO +O2OK T

.OK U  -BFN5BTBF 5IVOH G 2 8B N A A ,046,03/ :POH , 4BUB N G +O0HETRA E , 8BOH$IBSPFO3BU

0

 1 5VOH4BNFU / !.$!-!. ) )BU:BJ " & 5 5 * 3 -BOHV 0 3%! " ,IVBO5IF / ." 1", "- 3*/& ,VBO,IBMPOH 1"3, #"3" ,0#6-0/-&) ,VBO%PO +O"ULON 5)"-&#"/ 5IB1IBF /"5*0/"-1"3,

, "3 "-1 4"56/ +O 5*0/ +O 2AWI &/" 4ARUTAO ."3*/ 365"0 ,05" +O 5IB.BMBOH +O +O(IN !DANG "UTANG .GAM +O,IPE 244 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Twin peaks of Khao Khanap Nam forming a picturesque backdrop for Krabi

Krabi 1 Surrounded by tall limestone restaurants serving eclectic outcrops, similar to those in cuisine, and a burgeoning FS7 npo Phang Nga Bay (see pp212– nightlife. There is also a busy Road Map B5. 478 miles (770 km) 17), it is a scenic spot in its market at Thanon Sukhon, a SW of Bangkok. * 68,000. c g own right. The twin limestone tourist center, and a good Khao Khanap Nam ~ 10 miles (16 km) NE of Krabi. n peaks of foreign-language bookshop TAT, Krabi (0-7562-2163). ( daily. are among the most notable on Thanon Utarakit. outcrops which stand like A small town and provincial sentinels on each side of the 2 capital, Krabi is an important river. The eastern side is Wat Tham Seua embarkation point for ferries flanked by mangroves. Both H13wUKN to Ko Lanta, Ko Phi Phi, and the limestone karsts and the Ao Nang. Set on the banks of mangroves can be visited Road Map B5. 5 miles (8 km) N of the Krabi estuary, the town by renting a longtail boat Krabi. @ n TAT, Krabi, (0-7562- takes its name from a krabi, from the Khong Kha pier in 2163). # dawn to dusk daily. 0 = or sword, allegedly discovered the center of town. Although here. This quaint and bustling Krabi itself is generally used Built into a limestone cave, market town is the adminis- as a departure point for Wat Tham Seua, which trative center of the province the nearby islands, it is fast means Tiger Cave Temple, is with banks and other facilities. developing with several bars, regarded as one of southern Thailand’s most renowned forest temples. It is named after a rock formation that resembles a tiger’s paw. The wat’s main wihan (assembly hall) is built inside a deep limestone cave which con- tains various memento mori (grim symbols depicting the forsaking of worldly desires). At the rear of the wihan, a flight of stairs leads up to the main cave of the wat where visitors can see a much- venerated Buddha footprint on a gilded rock platform. The wat complex also has a large statue of the highly revered bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, in its Chinese manifestation as Guan Yin, the Mahayana goddess of mercy. It is sheltered by a newly built Chinese-style pagoda nearby. A circular path in the nearby forest hollow offers a pleasant walk Devotees kneeling in front of the Buddha statue in Wat Tham Seua among towering trees and

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 245

kutis (monks’ quarters). The a boardwalk is constructed. landscaped grounds have a Visitors can also hike along 1,272-step pathway which marked trekking trails. leads to a Seated Buddha image. Although a strenuous climb, the view from the top Khao Phanom is worth the effort. Wat Tham Bencha National Seua is also famous for its 4 Vipassana Meditation courses. Park Ni4ET6VLt$'T2^U!TA6DU7*%T Than Bok Koranee Road Map B5. Park HQ off Hwy 4, 12 miles (19 km) N of Krabi. 3 @ National Park 4 n Park HQ (0-7566-0716). Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^5TFY7 !F0 ‰ # dawn to dusk daily. & 8 0 = www.dnp.go.th Road Map B5. Park HQ off Rte 4039, 28 miles (45 km) NW of Krabi. This 20 sq mile (52 sq km) @ 4 n Park HQ (0-7568-1071). national park comprising # dawn to dusk daily. & 8 = tropical rain forest is named www.dnp.go.th after the five-shouldered peak Huay To Waterfall at Khao Phanom of Khao Phanom Bencha, Covering an area of 47 sq Bencha National Park which rises to a height of miles (122 sq km), Than Bok 4,470 ft (1,397 m). Koranee National Park is depicting humans and Despite and characterized by a series of animals and dating back to poaching, the park’s rain limestone outcrops, evergreen over two millennia. Other forest still holds at least 156 rain forest, mangroves, peat well-known caves in the area species of birds, including swamps, and several islands. include Tham Sa Yuan Thong, the white-crowned hornbill A part of the national park which has a natural spring; and the striped wren-babbler. is being developed as a Tham Phet, or Diamond Cave, Other wildlife includes the botanical garden. The park which derives its Asiatic black bear, headquarters set amid a series name from its wild boar, clouded of small streams and dark shimmering rock leopard, and smaller green pools is a popular walls; and Tham mammals such as picnic spot. It is possible to Song Phi Nong, the binturong, camp here by arrangement where skeletal and serow. The A clouded with park authorities. remains of humans, leopard cub thundering Nam Than Bok Koranee is also ancient pottery, Tok Huay To, or Huay famous for its cave systems. bronze tools, and earrings To Waterfall and Nam Tok Tham Lot is a cave complex were discovered. Huay Sadeh, or Huay Sadeh full of winding passages and Than Bok Koranee can be Waterfall are located less than stalactites and stalagmites and easily reached by bus or car. 2 miles (3 km) from the park can be reached by boat from The best way to explore the headquarters. Park authorities the Bho Tho pier in Ao Luk. park’s mangrove swamps is can arrange treks to the Khao The nearby Tham Hua Kalok, by longtail boat as they are Phanom Bencha peak. The is well known for its 70 odd virtually impassable by foot difficult climb is compensated ancient cave paintings apart from some places where by the lovely view.

Visitors admiring limestone formations inside the extensive cave system in Than Bok Koranee National Park 246 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Tha Pom 5 4€T8ND

Road Map B5. 21 miles (34 km) NW of Krabi. 4 n TAT, Krabi (0-7562- 2163). # dawn to dusk daily. & = A peat swamp and forest, Tha Pom runs from various sources which originate from a pool called Chong Phra Kaew, along a natural waterway. This waterway is locally referred to as Khlong Song Nam, meaning two types of water canals. Here, freshwater meets seawater at high tide, and Lumphi palms (Eleiodoxa conferta) grow alongside thick mangroves. The area is best explored by Longtail boats frequenting the waterway along the mangroves of Tha Pom hired riverboat, although a raised wooden walkway has tracts of forest in Thailand. regular review. These reviews also been built through parts These mangroves have are aimed at protecting this of the forest, running a circu- remained remarkably intact unique environment. lar course for some 2,250 ft and are important nesting (686 m). Signs along the way, grounds for hundreds of 7 in English and Thai, explain species of bird and are among Ko Klang the natural ecology of the the most frequently visited U TS GT$ region. Wooden chairs are areas by enthusiastic bird- placed at intervals for visitors watchers. They also provide Road Map B5. 2 miles (3 km) S to sit back and take in the shelter for a variety of land of Krabi. 4 from Krabi. n TAT, pristine beauty of the area. and marine animals, especially Krabi (0-7562-2163). 0 = Another way to explore the birds such as the mangrove area is in a hired canoe. blue flycatcher. A visit to the Among the few remaining Krabi mangrove swamps is non-commercialized islands in easily organized; half-day Thailand, Ko Klang, or Central 6 Mangroves boat tours to nearby estuaries Island, is situated across the KH6Fi !'T2^ FS7 n are also widely available. Krabi River estuary a short Boats frequent the area distance from Krabi. Clearly Road Map B5. 3 miles (5 km) W of almost every hour from Krabi visible from the town, the Krabi. @ 4 n TAT, Krabi (0-7562- and are available for hire. island is a pristine tropical 2163). 8 Fortunately, the ecological paradise ringed by thick significance of the Krabi mangrove swamps and can Home to several types of mangrove forests has been be easily reached by a hired birds, fish, crabs, shrimps, recognized by the Thai people riverboat or longtail boat from and mollusks, the mangroves and plans for further develop- Krabi. There are a few of Krabi are easily accessible ment of Krabi as a deep-water beautiful coral reefs off the and among the most beautiful port are currently under shore, although they have been damaged by traffic in the water. Offshore swimming is another good option for visitors. Quite a few of the local mangrove swamp tours stop by at the island for an hour or so, but those interested in learning more about Krabi fishermen, boatmen, and their families, can arrange a homestay visit through one of the many travel agencies in Krabi. There are three small fishing villages on this predominantly Thai Muslim island and locals offer homestays including accommodations, food, and Fishing farm owned by local fishermen in Ko Klang hired bicycles or motorcycles.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 247

Mangrove Ecosystems The coastal estuaries of inhospitable conditions of these southern Thailand are muddy intertidal zones. home to dense mangrove However, this vital ecosystem is forests – a natural haven for home to many fish, crabs, all kinds of wildlife. These mollusks, shrimps, as well as wild ecosystems once covered much birds such as the ruddy White-bellied of the coast, but over the past sea eagle kingfisher, mangrove pitta, the five decades, many have been white-bellied sea eagle, and the destroyed. Those that survive are now masked fin-foot. Larger animals living being brought under conservation in the swamps include the dugong or programs. Mangrove species are the sea cow, macaque monkeys, lizards, only trees to have adapted to the and endangered sea turtles.

The soil in this region is CROSS SECTION OF A MANGROVE LEVEE rich in nutrients and away This is a typical gradation of trees in a mangrove forest. from direct wave action. At high tide, small fish and invertebrates feed in the nutrient-rich waters around the roots. At low tide, when the roots are exposed, crabs and wading birds scour the mudflats for trapped fish and decaying matter.

Pneumatophores Stilt roots grow down Excess salt is excret- or finger-like pro- from the trunk and ed via the shedding jections are used absorb oxygen. for “breathing”. of leaves.

Yellow-ringed cat snakes are adept swimmers and tree Small-clawed otters are Crab-eating macaques inhabit climbers. They rest by day common to this area. They mangroves and are good swim- and hunt for fish, frogs, and eat crustaceans such as mers. They forage for crabs at low other small game by night. mollusks and crabs. tide and also subsist on seeds.

DESTRUCTION OF MANGROVE FORESTS Despite the provision of a national mangrove management program (set up in 1946), some 60 percent of Thailand’s mangroves have been cleared since the 1960s. This loss of habitat has not only decimated marine life, but is also contributing to coastal erosion. Tiger shrimp farming, charcoal production, and Male fiddler crabs use their road and harbor construction in former one enlarged claw to select mangrove areas have further exacerbated tiny organic particles to eat. this destruction and are responsible for Fish farm in a Their colorful claws are also the loss of biodiversity in this region. mangrove area used in courtship displays. 248 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Krabi Coast 8 'TE@kn$ FS7 n Located on the peninsular mainland to the east and south of Phuket, comprises more than 1,800 sq miles (4,662 sq km) of forested hills along with more than 62 miles (100 km) of coastline and an estimated 200 islands, all facing the aquamarine waters of the Andaman Sea. Much of the coastline is studded with steep, impenetrable and uniquely-shaped karst outcrops which offer caving, trekking, and some of the finest rock-climbing in the world. The area is also known for its fantastic snorkeling, scuba diving, and sea-kayaking opportunities. Despite rapid development, Visitors sunbathing on the pristine the Krabi Coast is still largely off the beaten track. sands at Hat Rai Leh West

tide, but less appealing at low tide when wide muddy flats are exposed. The more developed of the two beaches, Hat Rai Leh East offers a wide range of accommodations, including beach bungalows. Visitors can explore the mangroves or practice rock climbing on the limestone outcrops on the beach. Many travelers prefer to stay at this beach and walk over to Hat Rai Leh West and Hat Tham Phra Nang during the day.

L Hat Rai Leh West LT1WFnUGEz2SH62 ‰ Display of fossilized seashells in limestone slabs, Susaan Hoi 10 miles (16 km) SW of Krabi. 4 0 = L Susaan Hoi L Hat Rai Leh East A gently curving stretch KiKT6LNE‰ LT1WFnUGEz2SH6NN of white sand, Hat Rai Leh 13 miles (21 km) SW of Krabi. 7 miles (11 km) SW of Krabi. West faces west across the 4 0 = 4 0 = Andaman Sea offering Located on the southeastern Hat Rai Leh comprises two spectacular sunset views. extremity of the Krabi Coast, separate beaches – Hat Rai More attractive but somewhat Susaan Hoi is easily accessible Leh East and Hat Rai Leh more expensive than the by longtail boat from Krabi. West. Both can be easily eastern flank, the beach has Also known as the Shell accessed by longtail boat little by way of budget accom- Cemetery, this spot is a fan- from Krabi. The eastern modation and although it tastic agglomeration of stretch is attractive at high attracts visitors from all over thousands of seashells that the coast, most choose not to date back at least 75 million stay here. For those willing to years. It was originally a large splurge, there are plenty of freshwater swamp, home to a mid-range and upscale places, variety of mollusks. These as well as some excellent sea- have petrified over the pas- food restaurants and bars. It is sage of time accompanied also the main landing point due to changes on the earth’s for longtail water taxis from surface and fused into large Ao Nang. The rocky lime- limestone slabs that now stone outcrops particular to project into the sea. A small this region extend into Hat museum by the site explains Rai Leh West offering oppor- the history of these fossils. tunities for climbers of all There are also some souvenir levels. There are plenty of shops selling shells and other local companies that rent local handicrafts. Visitors to out guides and equipment. this spot can enjoy the Sea-kayaking around the secluded stretches, offering Climbers scale the bolted outcrops limestone cliffs is another good views of islands. along Hat Rai Leh East very popular sport.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KRABI COAST 249

L Hat Tham Phra Nang VISITORS’ CHECKLIST LT1AFS6T$ 9 miles (14 km) SW of Krabi. Road Map B5. 2 miles (3 km) W 4 0 = of Krabi. ~ 10 miles (16 km) NE Located at the southern end of Krabi. @ c g from Krabi. of the small peninsula that n TAT, Krabi (0-7562-2163). divides Hat Rai Leh East from Hat Rai Leh West, Hat Tham Phra Nang is considered one are the highlight of the Krabi of the loveliest spots in south- experience offering unparal- ern Thailand. The white sand leled climbing opportunities beach is sheltered by a variety as well as stunning views. of karst outcrops. The limestone cliffs that sur- Tham Phra Nang round this area have made it 3wAFS6T$ a world-famous rock climbing 9 miles (14 km) SW of Krabi. destination. The forbiddingly Fertility shrine dedicated to Phra 4 & sheer Taiwand Wall and its Nang, Tham Phra Nang Located along the eastern extensions dominate Hat end of Hat Tham Phra Tham Phra Nang and have ropes. However, corrosive Nang is Tham Phra Nang, hundreds of routes – from the weather conditions may which means Cave of the simple to truly demanding. threaten the integrity of the Revered Lady. This cave is They are marked by bolts bolts, thus visitors should take dedicated to the memory of fixed in the rock where suitable safety precautions. an Indian princess who sup- climbers can attach their These spectacular outcrops posedly drowned offshore centuries ago. A fertility cult has developed around her and locals have set up a small shrine within Tham Phra Nang. Packed with red-tipped phalluses placed here by fishermen praying for a good catch, the shrine is also revered by women, especially expectant mothers and those who want to be blessed with a child. Near the cave is a marked path leading to the small lagoon of Sa Phra Nang, which means Lady’s Bathing Place, and offers a good view Longtail boats functioning as makeshift restaurants, Hat Tham Phra Nang across Hat Rai Leh East.

#BO #BO4BJ5IBJ $IBOH1MJ

)BU,IMPOH ,SBCJ"JSQPSU .VBOH #BO,BX .VBOH ,SBCJ

"P4PJ )BU/PQQIBSBU "P/BOH +O,ANTA 5IBSB MILES KM 4BJ5IBJ "P /BNNBP "P5PO4BJ 4VTBBO +O0HI0HI$ON KEY )PJ MILESKM Beach )BU3BJ-FI8FTU )BU3BJ-FI&BTU 5IBN1ISB/BOH -BFN1ISB/BOH Dive site +O0HI0HI$ON )BU5IBN1ISB/BOH Domestic airport MILESKM ,SBCJ$PBTU Ferry service -PXFS "OEBNBO Visitor information $PBTU

Major road "OEBNBO4FB Minor road 0 km 3

Ferry route 0 miles 3 250 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Limestone karsts and thick scrub dominating the isolated beach at Ao Ton Sai

L Ao Ton Sai Hat Ton Sai is not a standout L Ao Nang N€TH2†6W4F beach like Hat Rai Leh West N€TH6T$ 11 miles (18 km) SW of Krabi. or Hat Tham Phra Nang; it is 13 miles (21 km) W of Krabi. 4 0 = often littered with flotsam 4 0 = The least developed of the and the bay is backed by A beautiful and busy bay, Ao beaches around Ao Nang, mangroves rather than the Nang is just west of Hat Tham Ao Ton Sai is also the least more common coconut Phra Nang, and is separated expensive. It is possible to palms. However, the view from Ao Ton Sai by a rocky reach Ao Ton Sai from the from the bay is quite mag- headland. Originally a small western end of the coast on nificent and includes sheer, fishing hamlet popular with foot, but visitors should be karst outcrops. Accommo- the backpacking crowd, the prepared to walk through dation options, as well as bay has grown into promi- sticky mudflats. There is also drinking and dining facilities nence in recent times. Easily access from Hat Rai Leh West on this beach are appreciably accessible by road from Krabi, to the south, but this is made cheaper than at the more Ao Nang is extremely popular uncomfortable and potentially upscale Hat Rai Leh West. during peak season with dangerous by jagged rocks Many travelers often stay many overseas visitors, studded with sharp-shelled here, heading out to the especially Europeans. This clams. Like the nearby nearby beaches, such as Hat beach is one of the liveliest beaches of Hat Rai Leh East, Tham Phra Nang, during the spots on the Krabi Coast. Hat Rai Leh West, and Hat day and returning to eat and The huge tourist influx has Tham Phra Nang, Ao Ton Sai enjoy the fine sunset views led to the development of all can be best reached by boat. across the Andaman Sea. kinds of facilities including a variety of accommodations ranging from upscale resorts to budget guesthouses, as well as many restaurants, bars, travel agents, and dive operators. Highway 4203, the main road from Krabi, is lined with hotels, mini-markets, and dive shops as it enters Ao Nang from the east. The night- life here is vibrant without being sleazy. There are bars with live music, pool tables, and even a McDonalds outlet making this beach lively and full of activity. Visitors looking for a quieter beach, can make their way to nearby Hat Rai Leh West, a 10-minute Massage huts and restaurants along the beach road at Ao Nang boat ride from Ao Nang.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KRABI COAST 251

L Hat Noppharat Thara LT16AF26z‰5TFT‰ 11 miles (18 km) W of Krabi. 0 = A popular picnic spot that is just around the corner from Ao Nang, Hat Noppharat Thara is a less-developed extension of the beach at Ao Nang and can be easily accessed on foot from the bay. This quiet 2-mile (3-km) long casuarina-lined beach offers magnificent views of the area’s massive karst outcrops. Formerly called Hat Khlong Haeng, meaning Dried Canal Beach, Hat Noppharat Thara derives its name from a canal which divides the beach into two and dries up at low tide. Coconut palms along the sheltered beach at Hat Khlong Muang The beach is similar to that at Ao Nang without its resorts, low for swimming, but ideal development of the luxurious bars, or crowds. However, for walking across to the tiny Krabi Sheraton (see p310) has Hat Noppharat Thara’s offshore island of Ko Kao Pak transformed this pristine proximity to the latter beach Klong for a good view of the stretch on the Andaman Sea means that it is a matter of bay. This area is famous for its into an upscale resort offering time before this area develops seafood especially hoi chak all kinds of facilities. The as a commercial spot. At low teen (wing shells), a local palm-lined beach is inter- tide the waters are too shal- delicacy whose shells are also spersed with rocky boulders sold as souvenirs. and a portion of the reef is exposed at low tide; the L Hat Khlong Muang offshore islands only add to LT1"GN$DnH$‰ the visual appeal of staying 14 miles (22 km) W of Krabi. here. Dive schools and travel 4 0 = agents abound in Hat Khlong Shielded from Ao Nang and Muang and can arrange scuba Laem Phra Nang by a long, diving, snorkeling, and sea- rocky headland, Hat Khlong kayaking trips to the offshore Muang presents the luxurious islands. Places to eat include side of the Krabi Coast. This sundowner bars, beach cafés, beach can be easily reached and noodle bars. In sharp by longtail boats from Ao contrast, the resorts offer Nang or songthaews or hired luxurious restaurants serving Colorful longtail boats anchored off cars from Krabi. Once a international cuisine as well Hat Noppharat Thara backpackers’ destination, the as gourmet Thai food.

THE LEGEND OF PHRA NANG According to legend, Phra Nang was an Indian princess who drowned in the Andaman Sea many centuries ago. Her spirit supposedly inhabited the cave that is now known as Tham Phra Nang (see p249). In the past, locals created a simple shrine here and left offerings in the form of carved lingas (phallic symbols). Over time, the status of this shrine rose, becoming associated with fertility and good fortune, and the cave itself became a symbol of the female sexual organ. Residents of this area believe that any carved wooden linga cast into the sea off the Krabi Coast will eventually find its way to Tham Phra Nang. A minor deity in this region, Phra Nang is the patron saint of women who want to conceive as well as of fishermen out for a good day’s haul. She is believed to be capable of great anger and, according to popular belief, insults to her shrine cause damage to those involved. Thus, locals and outsiders generally seek her Phallic symbols as offerings at the blessings before undertaking any project in the area. shrine of Phra Nang 252 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Phi Phi 9

U TSApApp ,SBCJ 1IVLFU ,P This archipelago comprises six islands set like 1IJ1IJ -PXFS "OEBNBO scattered jewels amid the azure waters of the $PBTU Andaman Sea. Ko Phi Phi Don is the main island, comprising two land masses joined by a "OEBNBO4FB narrow palm-fringed isthmus lined with restau- Cashew rants, bars, and guesthouses. The beautiful and fruit uninhabited Ko Phi Phi Leh lies to its south while LOCATOR MAP the other islands are just tiny limestone outcrops. Nature lovers will find a haven in the surrounding coral Area illustrated beds teeming with marine life. Tall cliffs and underwater reefs protect the islands from the rough seas. Ko Phi Phi is renowned for its #BO-BFN5IPOH beauty, drawing visitors from all over the world. )BU-BFN5IPOH

"P-P #BLBP

"P-P . View of Twin Bays %BMVN These are spectacular view of Ko Phi Phi Don and the twin bays of Ao Lo Dalum and Ao Ton Sai from the famous view- "P5PO point at the eastern end of the island. The best views are 4BJ during sunrise and sunset.

Beach Activities Ko Phi Phi is renowned for diving and snorkeling among 0 km 1 its superb corals and vibrant marine life. Sea-kayaking and 0 miles 1 rock climbing are also popular.

STAR SIGHTS . View of Twin Bays . Ban Ton Sai . Ban Ton Sai The largest settlement on Ko Phi Phi, Ban Ton Sai also . Ao Maya serves as a ferry port. Once a small Muslim fishing village, today it is a hive of restaurants, bars, and hotels.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KO PHI PHI 253

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST DANNY BOYLE’S THE BEACH Hollywood director Danny Boyle decided upon Ao Maya Road Map B5. 25 miles (40 km) in Ko Phi Phi Leh as the perfect location for filming Alex S of Krabi. * 7,700. g from Garland’s The Beach (2000). The movie, about a commune Phuket or Krabi. n TAT, Phuket of young people living on a secret island, shows them (0-7621-2213). _ Chinese partying and living a hedonistic life. The film, however, ran New Year (Feb), Songkran (Apr). into trouble with accusations of environmental damage and www.phi-phi.com profiteering during its making. 20th Century Fox and their local agents were sued by Thai courts for alleged damage to the bay. Nonetheless, the movie was instru- mental in bringing Ao Maya into the lime- light, and has led to a Taking a shot of Ao Maya during the substantial increase in filming of Danny Boyle’s The Beach the number of visitors.

Hiking trails KEY cut through the Beach eastern half of Ko Phi Phi Don. Dive site )BU Watersports - 3BOUJ Colorful Coral Reefs ,01)* Viewpoint Ko Phi Phi’s surrounding 1)*%0/ Ferry service waters have several Trail renowned dive sites with a variety of soft corals, Ferry route anemones, and even sharks.

)BU:BP

+RABI MILESKM Viking Cave This cave has ancient carvings of Chinese junks resembling Viking-style vessels. These petroglyphs, dating back a few centuries, confirm the legends of Viking 0HUKET boats visiting the MILESKM Andaman coast.

,01)* 1)*-&) . Ao Maya Popularized by the movie The Beach, Ao Maya is one of the most beautiful bays in Ko Phi Phi sheltered by cliffs on three "P.BZB sides, with excellent snorkeling in the surrounding coral reefs. 254 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Ko Phi Phi explore the less accessible beaches on the other islands. Although Ko Phi Phi consists of six islands, Ao Lo Dalum is picturesque most of them, including Ko Phi Phi Leh, are at high tide but somewhat uninhabited and undeveloped limestone less appealing at low tide, outcrops. Ko Phi Phi Don, the main island when the mudflats stretch with some settlements is small enough to be out endlessly. A steep trail explored on foot. There are no motorized at the eastern end of the bay follows a path across the vehicles or proper roads, and visitors have island’s spine and leads up to to hike to get to the remote parts. However, the island’s famous viewpoint. Sign at it is possible to access most of the coast by dive shop Located at a height of 610 ft longtail boats or ferries from the Ban Ton (186 m) above sea level, the Sai pier. Ko Phi Phi Leh on the other hand has no viewpoint offers a vista span- walking paths or marked trails and the only means of ning the narrow isthmus and accessing this island is by boat from Ban Ton Sai. its twin bays.

L Hat Yao Ban Ton Sai LT1ETH 7†T62†6W4F 0 = g 0 = Located on the southeastern As the only settlement of any shore of Ko Phi Phi, Hat Yao size on the archipelago, Ban is sheltered by a small, rocky Ton Sai is the de facto capital promontory to the east. A of Ko Phi Phi as well as the world-class destination, this commercial hub of the island. beach is a place of exquisite Having developed out of a beauty – the sand is fine, small Muslim fishing village, white, and powdery, and the this is the only ferry port with surrounding waters are shal- links to the mainland. Located low and warm, swarming along Ao Ton Sai, the village A narrow street lined with shops with all kinds of colorful fish, covers the narrow isthmus and restaurants, Ban Ton Sai which live in the rich coral connecting the two parts of reef. Hat Yao attracts many Ko Phi Phi Don. Ban Ton Sai bank, a police station, a post travelers and the beach is is a crowded hive of small office, and a clinic. This is an generally quite crowded. streets packed with foreign ideal place for visitors to set Also present are numerous visitors as well as Thais from up base to explore the rest of vendors selling everything the mainland. Although, it Ko Phi Phi. from cold drinks to a Thai was badly damaged by the massage. It is easily reached 2004 tsunami, the village has L Ao Lo Dalum by boat from Ban Ton Sai or bounced back, busier than N€THYGdS1TG}D on foot via a narrow track ever. Despite promises from 0 = leading east from the village. the authorities to control Immediately north of Ban unrestricted building, new Ton Sai, Ao Lo Dalum is a L Hat Ranti resorts keep springing up on gorgeous bay fringed by a LT1F62 this island, which is part of an fine beach with lush green 0 = ecologically sensitive zone. coconut palms. Within a Tucked away from the busy Everyone visiting Ko Phi stone’s throw of bustling Ban Ban Ton Sai, Hat Ranti is Phi passes through Ban Ton Ton Sai, this beach is busy, one of three linked beaches Sai, and many choose to stay attracting day-trippers and on the east coast of Ko Phi here for its facilities including visitors on a tight schedule. Phi Don. It offers basic hotels, restaurants, and bars. Holiday-makers on long stays accommodations, affordable The village is also home to a usually have more time to restaurants, and is well suited for budget travelers. Hat Ranti is slightly off the beaten track, and can be reached by a 45-minute walk on the trail across the spine of the main island, or by longtail boats from Ban Ton Sai. This beach with its rocky outcrops and calm waters is a peaceful getaway which is perfect for a picnic or a day trip. However, visitors should bring their own diving gear and other supplies as this Limestone cliffs rising from the calm waters of Ao Lo Dalum beach has minimal facilities.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KO PHI PHI 255

L Ao Lo Bakao N€THYGdS7TU T 0 = Located on the eastern coast of Ko Phi Phi Don, Ao Lo Bakao is a long, curved bay facing the mainland. This bay which is about half a mile (1 km) north of Hat Ranti, is separated from Ban Ton Sai and the rest of the island by a rocky spine. Ao Lo Bakao can Cave paintings depicting ancient ships at Ko Phi Phi Leh be reached on foot via a single narrow trail. Yet, its PIRATES OF THE ANDAMAN COAST beach has developed as an Rock paintings of Arab, Chinese, and European vessels in upscale spot, characterized by Ko Phi Phi Leh’s caves may be evidence of the existence of expensive, well-appointed pirates on the Andaman Coast. Studies suggest that these resort accommodations. The paintings were made by the pirates while hiding in these lovely 2,880-ft (878-m) white remote spots to escape bad weather, transfer cargo, or avoid sand beach is well-served by authorities. The drawings are believed to date back at least restaurants and bars without a few centuries. The Andaman Coast with its many islands, being overcrowded. This rather coves, and inlets is a perfect vantage point and hideout. exclusive bay attracts upper- The theory is further proven as the nearby Straits of class Thais, and is a popular Malacca continues to be plagued by piracy even today. honeymoon spot.

Ko Phi Phi Leh exquisite bay offers fine U TSA A UG swimming and snorkeling. Only a quarter of the size of Apart from tourists, Ko Phi Ko Phi Phi Don and much Phi Leh also has regular local less accessible, Ko Phi Phi visitors. These are the daring Leh is a 25-minute boat ride climbers who engage in the from Ban Ton Sai. Completely swiftlet nest trade. This is a uninhabited with pristine coveted ingredient used to coves and bays, and rich make bird’s nest soup, an offshore coral reefs, the exotic delicacy and among island’s main attraction is its the most expensive animal startling beauty and isolation. products. Intrepid climbers However, this has changed scale sheer rock faces and since Danny Boyle put the caves on the island to gather island on the world map with these rare products. Snorkeling among the corals off his movie The Beach (2000) In ancient times, Ko Phi Hat Laem Thong starring Leonardo Di Caprio. Phi Leh was a mooring spot Since then a number of for fishermen and possibly, L Hat Laem Thong visitors have come here to pirates. The Viking Cave LT1VLGD4N$ experience this tropical para- on the northern coast has 0 = dise as captured on celluloid. petroglyphs of Chinese-style A lovely strip of sand on The island’s greatest attraction junks on its walls, which Ko Phi Phi Don’s northern- is Ao Maya, located along the visiting Europeans likened most tip, Hat Laem Thong is a southwestern coast. This to Viking ships. jumping-off point for nearby offshore islands. This area is also among the best diving spots in the archipelago. Thus, despite being quite far from Ban Ton Sai, Hat Laem Thong is busy with a constant flow of divers who come to explore the rich coral reefs. The beach is easily accessed by boat from Ban Ton Sai. Hat Laem Thong has quite a few upscale resorts including the Zeavola (see p309), as well as shops, restaurants, and diving agencies. Visitors can go deep-sea fishing or even take cookery courses. Visitors enjoying a boat ride in the pristine waters off Ko Phi Phi Leh

Vast expanse of coral reef in the shallow waters off Ko Phi Phi Don

258 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Khao Nor Chuchi Wildlife Sanctuary q U!2F ITA65igK2Hg8€T6N%jw%pw

Road Map C5. 38 miles (60 km) SE of Krabi. @ n TAT, Krabi (0- 7562-2163). # 8am–5pm daily. & One of the largest and most important wildlife sanctuaries in the Krabi province, Khao Excavated pottery displayed at Wat Nor Chuchi Wildlife Sanctuary Khlong Thom Nua Museum lies to the southeast of Krabi town in a small area of low- Wat Khlong Thom land tropical forest. This area, 0 which extends to nearly Nua Museum 71 sq miles (184 sq km), is A^A^5C0.g"GN$4nNDUL6N‰ surrounded by lush green rice paddies, palm oil and rubber Wooded Tung Tieo Forest Trail, Road Map C5. 26 miles (42 km) plantations, and other arable Khao Nor Chuchi Wildlife Sanctuary SE of Krabi. n TAT, Krabi (0-7562- crops. Popular with bird- 2163). watchers, the Khao Nor w Chuchi Wildlife Sanctuary is Ko Si Boya Southeast of Krabi along home to the Gurney’s pitta, U TSK 7NET Highway 4, the small town an endangered species once of Khlong Thom is the site thought to be extinct, but Road Map B5. 19 miles (31 km) S of one of the earliest human rediscovered in very small of Krabi. * 1,000. @ 4 from Ban civilizations in Thailand yet numbers both here and across Laem Kruat. n TAT, Krabi discovered. Excavations in the border in remote parts of (0-7562-2163). 0 = this town, set amid fertile rice southern Myanmar. Other paddies and fruit orchards, resident birds include the Located just off the Krabi have revealed stone tools, vernal hanging parrot and the coast and accessible by boat bronze implements, metal Chinese pond heron. There from Ban Laem Kruat, Ko Si coins, shards of pottery, and are several wooded walking Boya is an escape-from-it-all colored beads dating back trails within the forest, the retreat. Of the 1,000 people almost five millennia. These most popular being the 2-mile living on the island, most exhibits are now on display (3-km) long Tung Tieo Forest are local Muslims working as in the Wat Khlong Thom Nua Trail. This trail winds through fishermen or on rubber planta- Museum in Tambon Khlong the thick woods, leading to tions. There are about five Thom Tai, about half a mile two freshwater pools, one of small settlements on the from the Khlong Thom district which is called Sra Morakot, island, all connected by office. Ideal for history lovers, or Emerald Pool. These pools narrow, unpaved tracks, ideal the museum is popular with are ideal for swimming and for bicycling or walking. The visitors to the area. make great picnic spots. main attractions, however, are

Taking a refreshing dip in the freshwater pool, Sra Morakot, Khao Nor Chuchi Wildlife Sanctuary

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 259

the isolated, undeveloped beaches and mangrove forests. The island offers a few simple and reasonably priced bunga- lows, and some restaurants, and shops. Ko Si Boya has little to offer by way of night- life, but visitors have plenty of quieter options to choose from – swimming, sunbathing, reading, or relaxing. There is limited electricity on the island and almost every bun- galow establishment has its own generator-powered elec- tricity supply. Snorkeling enthusiasts can kayak to a Expansive green cover on isolated Ko Si Boya small island called Ko Kah just offshore from Ko Si Boya, Ko Jum on the island’s Ko Bubu r where the clear waters make southern tip, while the best snorkeling an exciting and beaches are on its western U TS7j7j rewarding experience. shore. Visitors to Ko Jum must remember to dress Road Map C5. 44 miles (70 km) appropriately on the beach, SE of Krabi. 4 from Ko Lanta. keeping in mind the senti- n TAT, Krabi (0-7562-2163). 0 ments of the resident Muslims. More developed than Ko Si A privately owned islet Boya, Ko Jum has better ac- covered by thick woods and commodation facilities, little more than half a mile although electricity supply on (1 km) across, Ko Bubu can this island too is limited. Most be easily traversed in about bungalows manage their own half-an-hour on foot. This supply through generators. pretty island, however, is An island getaway without closed during the height of the touts and go-go bars, Ko the rainy season from June Jum’s low-key attractions to September. Ko Bubu’s only include swimming, reading, resort, Bubu Island Resort, and sunbathing during the offers basic albeit comfortable day and enjoying a quiet meal accommodations in its bung- and drinks at one of the few alows, as well as simple food. beachside bars at night. Longtail boats are available Transport around the island is from Ko Lanta (see pp260–3), Brightly colored longtail boat, by foot, bicycle, or on hired but reservations must be docked in the waters off Ko Jum motorcycle taxis. made in advance.

Ko Jum e U TS%

Road Map B5. 24 miles (39 km) S of Krabi. * 3,000. @ 4 from Ban Laem Kruat. n TAT, Krabi (0-7562-2163). 0 = www. kohjumonline.com

Yet another quiet retreat, the beautiful island of Ko Jum is divided into two, with the mountainous and rugged northern part being referred to as Ko Pu, or Crab Island, by the locals. Ko Jum, with its small population of 3,000, has an overwhelming majority of Thai Muslims, although there are also some small and isolated sea gypsy settlements. The main settlement is at Ban Bubu Island Resort, set in thick woods on the private islet of Ko Bubu 260 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Lanta t trips offshore, as well as visits to the area’s many mangrove U TSGk62T forests and local chao lae or A group of 50 islets dominated by two main islands – sea gypsy communities. Ko Lanta Yai, or Big Ko Lanta and Ko Lanta Noi, or L Ao Phra-Ae Small Ko Lanta – Ko Lanta has only recently developed N€THAFSVNSi as a holiday spot. An erstwhile destination for hippies 2 miles (3 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. and backpackers, the island is now rapidly becoming 0 = an upscale resort. On offer are miles of sandy beaches, Located just south of Hat sapphire waters, reasonably priced accommodations, Khlong Dao, beyond a small good restaurants, and watering holes. While Ko Lanta headland, the beach at Ao Noi remains largely deserted for the present, by com- Phra-Ae is 3 miles (5 km) long. Blessed with crisp white parison, the more developed island of Ko Lanta Yai has sand and backed by casuarina a good surfaced road which runs down most of the trees, it was once a back- island’s western coast. Although the eastern coast, with packers’ retreat. Today, thick forests and mangrove swamps, is less accessible, however, Ao Phra-Ae is well it is a great place for bird-watching and kayaking. developed and quite similar to Hat Khlong Dao, although a longer walk from Ban Sala L Hat Khlong Dao Dan. The beach offers inex- LT1"GN$1TH pensive accommodations, 1 mile (2 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. guesthouses, restaurants, and 0 = cafés for the budget traveler. The longest and most popular However, more upscale beach on Ko Lanta, Hat resorts are presently under Khlong Dao is blessed with construction here. Ao golden sands that rise into Phra-Ae can be easily low, vegetation-covered reached on hired dunes. The beach itself is songthaews that ply the wide and a perfect place route on the island’s for sunbathing and swim- west coast road, running ming, which is quite safe behind the row of casua- here. Hat Khlong Dao, rel- rina trees marking the end atively uncrowded and of the beach. Motorcycles Main street in Ban Sala Dan, packed friendly, draws vacation- and bicycles are also with tour agents and utility stores ing families seeking a Chang available at rental shops relaxing stay within walk- beer near the beach. Ban Sala Dan ing distance from town. 7†T6JTGT1nT6 There are plenty of mid-range L Hat Khlong Khong 0 = as well as some budget LT1"GN$Y!G$ Located near the northern tip accommodations available, 4 miles (6 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. of Ko Lanta Yai, Ban Sala Dan and the beach strip is home 0 = is the main town in the Ko to numerous restaurants, A fine stretch of crisp white Lanta archipelago. The ferry cafés, and small bars. While sand, Hat Khlong Khong is arrival and departure point for there are no diving or snor- nearly 3 miles (5 km) long. destinations such as Ko Phi keling opportunities in the Located close to two small Phi, Phuket, Krabi, and Trang, immediate vicinity of the fishing villages, Ban Phu it is also the main tourist center beach, dive shops at Hat Klom and Ban Khlong Khong, for the entire district. Despite Khlong Dao arrange diving the beach is ideal for budget the amenities, however, Ban Sala Dan is a fairly laid-back fishing village which is now increasingly dedicated to tour- ism. Visitors will find a number of tour agencies, vehicle rentals, banks, ATMs, medical clinics and pharma- cies, Internet cafés, and shops here, along with a post office, reasonable accommodations, and restaurants. Even so, few people opt to stay in Ban Sala Dan, preferring to relax on the long row of beaches fur- ther south, and coming to the village only for necessities. Beautiful beach at Ao Phra-Ae, fringed by swaying casuarina trees

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KO LANTA 261

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map B5. 42 miles (68 km) S of Krabi. * 28,000. g from Krabi, Phuket, and Ko Phi Phi. n TAT, Krabi (0-7562-2163). _ Laanta Lanta Festival (Mar).

they encompass the mangrove fringed east coast of Ko Lanta Yai as well as the many smaller islets scattered across Ko One of the Viewpoint Hill restaurants, offering lovely views of the area Lanta Marine National Park (see p263) and the Trang travelers, as it offers cheap j Viewpoint Hill (see p264) coastline in the bungalow accommodations %i1'DH^H distance. Viewpoint Hill is a and simple, friendly bars and 6 miles (10 km) SE of Ban Sala Dan. popular spot to watch mesmeri- restaurants. At the same time, 0 = zing sunrises and sunsets over its distance from Ban Sala Dan Set in the middle of Ko Lanta the Andaman Sea. Visitors can ensures the beach’s tranquility. Yai, close to its geographical enjoy a meal while taking in While Hat Khlong Khong is center, Viewpoint Hill marks panoramic views across the perfect for sunbathing, the the highest point on the sea at any of the two pictur- offshore waters are rather island. It is reached by the esquely located Viewpoint shallow and rocky, and only road running between Hat Hill restaurants nearby. suitable for swimming during Khlong Nin on the west coast high tide. There are also good and Ban Si Raya on the east L Hat Khlong Nin snorkeling opportunities coast. The views from this LT1"GN$6^G when the tide is in. vantage point are stunning; 6 miles (10 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. 0 = +RABI MILESKM A delightful stretch of beach )BU,BX with soft white sand, Hat ,XBOH ,SBCJ ,0 Khlong Nin has a distinct #BO appeal for youngsters. The -"/5" -PXFS 4BMB%BO ,P-BOUB "OEBNBO beach is lined with palm /0* $PBTU )BU trees, casuarinas, and the ,IMPOH "OEBNBO4FB occasional frangipani. %BP Although lesser developed ,P,MBOH than the beaches to the north of Ko Lanta, Hat Khlong Hin offers reasonably priced "P #BO1ISB"F #BO5IVOH accommodations and food. 1ISB"F :FF1IFOH The nightlife, focused on a KEY number of small and unpre- tentious bars playing music Beach #BO1IV,MPN till late, draws revelers to the #BO,IMPOH Dive site beach. Swimming is safe here )BU ,IPOH and visitors often stay at Hat ,IMPOH Viewpoint ,IPOH 7JFXQPJOU - Khlong Nin for days at a time, )JMM Ferry service alternating between regular beach activities and attending Visitor information one of several Thai cooking #BO,IMPOH/JO Major road schools operating in the area.

5IBN,IBP Minor road )BU .BJ,BFX Ferry route ,IMPOH/JO 5IBN 4FVB #BO 4J3BZB )BU,IMPOH /BN+VE ,0 #BO,IMPOH)JO -"/5" :"* )BU/VJ #BO "P,BOUJBOH 4BOH(B6 ,P "P,IMPOH ,MVBOH 0 km 2 +BBL 1BSL "P.BJ )2 Sunbathing on quiet, but 0 miles 2 1BJ well-equipped Hat Khlong Nin -BFN 5BOPE 262 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Tham Seua 3†UKN 7 miles (11 km) SE of Ban Sala Dan. & A smaller and less visited cave complex, Tham Seua, or Tiger Cave, is located about 1 mile (2 km) east of the coastal road between Hat Khlong Nin and Laem Tanod. The caves can be reached by a narrow trail that also leads to the head- quarters of the Ko Lanta Marine National Park. Since Tham Seua is not as well organized as nearby Tham View of an upscale resort nestled Khao Mai Kaew, visitors are among the trees at Ao Kantiang free to wander through the Exploring the jungle trail to passages at will, where several at Hat Nui organize elephant Tham Khao Mai Kaew caves with stalactites, stalag- rides up to nearby Tham Seua mites, and still pools wait to as well as to the surrounding Tham Khao Mai Kaew be explored. The interior of jungle-covered hills. 3†U!TWD†V †H‰ the caves is quite cool, mak- 7 miles (11 km) SE of Ban Sala Dan. ing them an excellent place to L Ao Kantiang & 8 visit during the heat of the day. N€TH k6U2 E$ Located in the wooded interior 11 miles (18 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. of Ko Lanta Yai, Tham Khao L Hat Nui 0 = Mai Kaew is a complex of LT16wiE A lovely bay with a perfect caverns and tunnels. The 10 miles (16 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. white sand beach, Ao Kantiang caves are reached by a 1-mile 0 = is home to a number of (2-km) long narrow track An attractive and fairly isolated upscale resorts which fight leading east through a rubber beach, Hat Nui, also known for space with other more plantation on the road as Hat Khlong Nui, is located reasonably priced budget between Hat Khlong Nin and along Ko Lanta Yai’s west accommodations. Although Ban Si Raya. The cave com- coast, south of Hat Khlong some distance away from plex is extensive and poten- Nin and the junction east Ban Sala Dan, Ao Kantiang is tially confusing, and can only leading to Viewpoint Hill and well equipped with facilities be explored with the help of Ban Si Raya. The beach is dis- varying from travel agencies a guide. There are chambers tinguished by the ecologically and Internet access to motor- filled with stalactites and sta- conscious Narima Bungalow cycle and jeep rentals. The lagmites; small cavities which Resort (see p308). The build- casuarina-lined beach, also can be reached only by crawl- ings in the resort are all con- has a good selection of res- ing on all fours, and a cave structed from local, natural taurants as well as a few bars. pool that offers a cool dip. materials and have a quaint, While the beach and the bay Visitors have a choice of 1- or rustic feel. Lush tropical jungle are ideal for sunbathing and 2-hour tours. The tour opera- sweeps down to the beach swimming, there is also a tor in charge of the caves also from the hills behind, provid- small coral reef near the offers half-day and full-day ing the idyllic setting for a northern end of the bay, con- jungle treks in the vicinity. quiet holiday. Tour operators sidered quite good for snor- keling, especially when the tide is in. These are the only activities to indulge in, other than relaxing on the beach, observing the sunset, and enjoying a chilled drink.

L Ao Khlong Jaak N€TH"GN$%T 12 miles (19 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. 0 = South of Ao Kantiang the surfaced road that runs down the island’s west flank deteri- orates rapidly, becoming a rutted track that is difficult to negotiate even on a two- wheeler, especially during A restaurant perched on a cliff overlooking the sea at Hat Nui the rainy season when the

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KO LANTA 263

unpaved roads can get very National Park. The beach here slippery. The bay south of is beautiful, more so because Ao Kantiang, known as Ao it is not too busy. An offshore Khlong Jaak, offers a varied coral reef, great for snorkeling selection of accommodations – especially during high tide, from upscale resorts to simple makes up for the lack of places suited for those on a other activity on the beach. modest budget. It is rather off Ao Mai Pai offers good mid- the beaten track, but readily range resort accommodations accessible by boat from Ban and some more reasonably Sala Dan and other points priced bungalows. The shady north along the coast. Ao beach lined with palms, casua- Khlong Jaak is a good place rinas, and screwpine is ideal for getting away from it all. A for sunbathing and taking in stay here is usually a rejuve- views across the Andaman Sea. nating and relaxing experience with little activity. The days Ban Si Raya largely involve going for a 7†T6JF FTET Snorkeling in the clear waters off drink in a sundowner bar, 12 miles (19 km) SE of Ban Sala pretty Ko Rok Nok followed by star gazing from Dan. 0 = the white, sandy beach. A surprisingly attractive Ko Lanta Marine village, Ban Si Raya, or Old y Lanta Town, is the oldest National Park settlement in Ko Lanta, pre- A^A^5C0.g4T$4SUGU TSG62T dating Ban Sala Dan by many decades. Once a marine stag- Road Map B5. Park HQ 5 miles ing post for British flagged (8 km) S of Hat Nui, 44 miles ships sailing between Phuket, (70 km) S of Krabi. @ g n Park Penang, and Singapore, the HQ (0-7562-9018). & = town has hardly kept up with the rapid development else- Extending over 152 sq miles where on the island. It retains (394 sq km), Ko Lanta Marine a period charm and not much National Park includes the has changed here in the last southern tip of Ko Lanta Yai, 50 years. Nevertheless, a parts of Ko Lanta Noi, and Getting ready for kayaking on the steady trickle of visitors has 15 smaller islands and reefs. beach at Ao Khlong Jaak necessitated the renovation Other islands in the park and restoration of its Chinese- include Ko Rok Nai and Ko L Ao Mai Pai style shophouses. There is a Rok Nok, 31 miles (50 km) N€THWD†W9€‰ small Chinese shrine facing south of Ko Lanta Yai; Ko 13 miles (21 km) S of Ban Sala Dan. the sea half-way down the Talabaeng to the east of Ko 0 = main street, and the mosques Lanta Noi with its limestone The southernmost beach on nearby stand testimony to the caves which are ideal for sea- Ko Lanta Yai, Ao Mai Pai presence of a thriving Thai- kayaking; and tiny Ko Ha. marks the end of the unsur- Muslim community. A few Ko Rok Nok, or Outer Rok faced and rutted track leading guesthouses cater to visitors Island, and Ko Rok Nai, or toward the southern part of staying overnight, but the real Inner Rok Island, are well the island. A little distance appeal lies in the restaurants offshore and best visited as a inland are the headquarters and bars that have sprung up day trip from Ko Lanta Yai by for the Ko Lanta Marine in recent years. speedboat. They can also be visited from Trang’s Pak Meng pier. The islands are blessed with tropical forest and fine beaches. Visitors can explore the forested interiors and waterfalls, and snorkel in the coral reefs. The fauna and flora include a variety of birds, reptiles, and fish. The coral reefs off the island are home to beautiful staghorns and starflower. Diving enthusiasts can also head to Hin Daeng and Hin Muang, two excellent dive sites, just 16 miles (26 km) southwest of Ko Rok, known Tranquil beach lined with shady casuarinas and screwpine trees at Ao Mai Pai for their colorful soft corals. 264 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ferries and boats lined up at the jetty to take visitors to nearby islands, Hat Pak Meng

Trang u mountains of this area are Environs becoming popular. Trang has Located 14 miles (22 km) 2F$ a strong ethnic character due southwest of Trang, Kantang to the influx of migrant labor is the historical site indicating Road Map C5. 82 miles (132 km) from China in the latter half the site of the first rubber tree SE of Krabi. * 150,000. ~ 3 miles of the 19th century. There are that was ever planted in (5 km) S of Trang. £ @ c g 4 some very good Chinese cafés Thailand. Visitors can also n TAT, Trang (0-7521-5867). ( here – a testament to the stop by to see the historical daily. _ Vegetarian Festival (Oct). ancestry of the locals. The mansion of governer Khaw architecture in the town is a Sim Bee Na-Ranong. A trading center since the 1st combination of Western century AD, Trang grew to and Sino-Thai designs and i prosperity between the 7th includes shophouses as well Hat Pak Meng and 15th centuries as Chinese temples. A number LT18T UDr$‰ under the Srivijaya of food markets rulers. Capital of add to the local Road Map C5. Along Hwy 4162, , color. There is a 25 miles (40 km) W of Trang. today, it is still an statue dedicated @ g n TAT, Trang (0-7521- important com- to Khaw Sim Bee 5867). 0 = mercial town with Chinese Na-Ranong – the rubber, palm oil, and architectural motif much-revered A curved stretch of sand, Hat fishing as the governor of Trang Pak Meng is a peaceful beach mainstays of its economy. who adopted the title of with decent accommodations Tourism is also becoming Phraya Ratsadanupradit. The and restaurants that are an important industry as the area is also famous for its famous for spicy seafood. Hat beaches, islands, and Vegetarian Festival. Pak Meng is best known as the embarkation point for nearby Ko Hai, a beautiful TRANG’S VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL and deserted island about 30 Trang’s long association with minutes by longtail boat. The southern China, and the Chinese jetty at the northern end of heritage of many of its inhabitants the beach has several travel manifests itself in the annual agencies that organize both Vegetarian Festival, held on a full snorkeling and boat tours. moon night in the beginning of October. On this occasion, Sino- o Thai locals dress in white, and Hat Chang Lang turn vegetarian for nine days to LT1&T$LGT$ People thronging the streets make merit and earn good during Vegetarian Festival fortune. Ascetics parade through Road Map C5. 28 miles (45 km) SW the town with their followers, of Trang town. @ n TAT, Trang accepting offerings from devotees to the accompaniment (0-7521-5867). & 0 = of drums, cymbals, and firecrackers. They demonstrate extraordinary scenes of self-mortification including body- Casuarina-lined Hat Chang piercing, self-flagellation, walking on fire, and other such Lang is a long and beautiful feats while possessed by religious fervor. The resulting stretch of white sand. The injuries from these acts are surprisingly minimal. southern end of the beach houses the headquarters for

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 265

the Hat Chao Mai National Park. The accommodations on this beach are mostly upscale. The Anantara Si Kao Resort (see p310) located near the northern end of the beach is the finest hotel in Trang province. However, there are cheaper accommodation options further down the beach. Hat Chang Lang also offers a range of watersports which include sea-kayaking, deep-sea fishing, and wind- surfing. Hat Chang Lang is also famous for its oysters and visitors should try the local A group of sea kayakers in the waters off Hat Yao seafood restaurants scattered along the beach. among these caves is Tham a jetty that serves nearby Chao Mai, a large marine Ko Muk in the Hat Chao Mai cave filled with stalagmites. National Park. Hat Yong Ling Hat Chao Mai These can be easily reached is a curved white sand beach National Park p by longtail boat. Nine backed by a pine forest, with offshore islands are also rocky outcrops at either end. A^A^5C0.K3T6VL€$'T2^LT1U%† protected under this park and The larger of these outcrops TWLD include Ko Kradan and Ko is pierced with numerous Muk (see p266). caves and entrances that Road Map C5. Park HQ Hat Chang Dugongs can sometimes can be explored on foot at Lang, 29 miles (47 km) SW of Trang be spotted in the surrounding low tide, or by boat, or by town. @ n Park HQ (0-7521- waters; the park is also home swimming during high tide. 3260). # 6am–6pm daily. 0 = to otters, dolphins, langurs, Some caves lead to small, www.dnp.go.th and wild boars. The best time hidden, and often very to visit Hat Chao Mai National beautiful beaches, with low Established in 1982, the Hat Park is during the cool season sand dunes forming private Chao Mai National Park from November to February. nooks. There is nothing much covers an area of 89 sq miles by way of accommodations (231 sq km). Located to the at this unfrequented spot, a west of Trang, the coastal Hat Yong Ling and other facilities or places landscape of the park LT1LE$LG^$ to eat and drink are similarly includes mangrove creeks, minimal. Visitors can use the coastal karsts, and hidden Road Map C5. Hat Chao Mai services provided by the Hat coves. The main beach, Hat National Park. @ n TAT, Trang Chao Mai National Park head- Chao Mai, is backed by (0-7521-5867). 0 = quarters at Hat Chang Lang. limestone outcrops with a series of historical caves. Located immediately south of s These caves have been found Hat Chang Lang on the Trang Hat Yao to house various prehistoric coast is Hat Yong Ling. The LT1ETH‰ remains. The most notable two beaches are separated by Road Map C5. Hat Chao Mai National Park. @ n TAT, Trang (0-7521-5867). 0 =

Continuing south from Hat Yong Ling, the 3-mile (5-km) long Hat Yao, or Long Beach, is a perfect camping spot. The beach, lined with casuarinas and pines, is mostly deserted on weekdays. However, this long and pristine strip of white sand is gradually undergoing development and some bungalow accom- modations as well as a few restaurants and bars, have sprung up in recent times. The warm waters are ideal Thin strip of beach bordered by casuarinas at Hat Chao Mai National Park for swimming. 266 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Beautiful resort with a private beach on the island of Ko Hai

Ko Hai d island an ideal place for Inhabited by a handful of families with children. Apart chao lae (sea gypsies), U TSWL$ from sunbathing, swimming, stunning Ko Muk, part of the or just relaxing in a hammock, Hat Chao Mai National Park, Road Map C5. 36 miles (58 km) SW visitors can go sea-kayaking is fast developing into an of Trang. g from Pak Meng pier. and snorkeling. It is also upscale destination. The main n TAT, Trang-Satun (0-7521-5867). possible to arrange snorkeling beach on the island, Hat Sai 0 = and diving tours to isolated Yao, is the principal visitors’ Ko Rok Nok (see p263), about attraction with white sands A tiny, beautiful island off the 19 miles (31 km) southwest of and warm waters, which are southwest coast of Trang, Ko Ko Hai, through tour agents safe for swimming. There are Hai, also known as Ko Ngai, on the island. some good mid-range resorts is a verdant, tropical island and restaurants here. Nearby, with just about all the right Tham Morakot, or Emerald f elements – a shady, green Ko Muk Cave, is another major local interior, lovely white powdery U TSDi 2s attraction. Visitors have to sand, warm, shallow waters, swim a short distance, at high and excellent coral reefs, close Road Map C5. Hat Chao Mai tide, through a water-filled to the shore, swarming with National Park. g from Pak Meng cavern – part of which lies in fish. It is both possible and pier. n TAT, Trang-Satun (0-7521- virtual darkness – to reach a pleasant to stay on Ko Hai, 5867). 0 = hong or underwater cave. but there are no budget range This cave is otherwise shut accommodations available. A remote backpackers’ retreat off from the outside world. Visitors must be prepared for until a few years ago, Ko The only other access to the mid-range prices, but good Muk, or Pearl Island, can also tunnel is over the top of the quality bungalows and be accessed from the Kuan collapsed dome which allows restaurants make this little Tunku pier farther south. sunlight into the depths below. Boats can also enter the lagoon, which has a small beach, at low tide. The east coast, however, is undevelo- ped and remains the domain of local fisherfolk.

Ko Kradan g U TS FS1T6

Road Map C5. Hat Chao Mai National Park. g from Pak Meng pier. n TAT, Trang-Satun (0-7521- 5867). 0 =

A gorgeous island easily accessible by boat from the Pak Meng pier, Ko Kradan is Visitors starting the swim through the dark tunnel of Tham Morakot indeed one of the pearls of

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 267

the Andaman Sea. A part of the Hat Chao Mai National Park, the interior of the island is a mix of dense tropical jungle and rubber plantations, there are fine coral reefs just offshore, offering excellent snorkeling opportunities. A couple of sunken Japanese ships from the World War II era offer another exciting diving site in the waters off the island. Ko Kradan is less developed than Ko Muk, but Couple showing their marriage license during an underwater wedding this may change given the increasing popularity of these KO KRADAN’S UNDERWATER WEDDINGS offshore islands. At present, Underwater weddings have been taking place in Trang on however, there are no upscale Valentine’s Day each year since 1996. Although begun in a resorts here, only a couple of small way, by 2000 it had become a mass event, with groups bungalow establishments, of Thais and foreigners marrying underwater. The main although camping is permitted. venue for this event is Ko Kradan. The island entered the Visitors can also use the Kuan Guinness Book of Records in 2000 for hosting the largest Tunku pier to get here. underwater wedding in the world. Groups of around 40 couples in diving gear swim a short distance to an under- water altar where they are married by a local official also h Ko Libong in dive gear. This event is now part of the Trang Season of U TSG^7$ Love. Before the ceremony, the brides and grooms sail along the coast in a flotilla of boats. Couples must have PADI Road Map B5. 8 miles (13 km) SW diving licenses, or allow some time for the organizers on of Ko Kradan. Tel 0-7525-1932 Ko Kradan to teach them the basics of diving. (Libong Archipelago Wildlife Reserve). g from Pak Meng pier. n TAT, Trang-Satun (0-7521-5867). 0 = small cafés, and bars. While Ko Sukorn j activities such as swimming Lying further to the east than and snorkeling keep visitors U TSKi F Ko Muk and Ko Kradan, Ko busy, another attraction is the Libong is larger than both and rich and varied wildlife of the Road Map C5. 14 miles (22 km) SE can also be accessed from the island, under the aegis of the of Ko Libong. g from Tasae pier. nearby Chao Mai pier. Ko Libong Archipelago Wildlife n TAT, Trang-Satun (0-7521-5867). Libong so far remains untouch- Reserve. Here, explorers will 0 = ed by the hectic commercial find mangrove swamps as activity which seems to have well as get a chance to see To the east of Ko Libong, just swept across most of the the endangered dugong, also off Laem Tasae and easily country, and is home to known as the sea cow. accessible by boat from Tasae several small Thai-Muslim Conservationists estimate that pier, Ko Sukorn is another fishing communities. The there may be as many as 20 gem of the Trang Coast. main beach on the island is at pairs of dugongs breeding in Smaller than Ko Libong, and Ban Maphrao on the island’s the vicinity. Sea kayaks with more densely populated, the east coast. There are several guides are available for those island is home to a community mid-range resorts here, along who wish to see them in their of about 2,500 Thai-Muslims, with a handful of restaurants, natural habitat. mainly fishing families, and farmers growing coconuts, rice, and rubber. The island has simple bungalow accom- modations, as well as shops, restaurants, and cafés, but no upscale resorts. The electricity supply is erratic, and usually limited at night. The locals on the island are friendly but conservative Muslims, whose main income comes from fish and lobster farming. Visitors can go swimming or snorkel- ing, or even explore the island on hired bicycles. Ko Sukorn can also be accessed Longtail boats of local fishermen anchored at the pier in Ko Sukorn from the Pak Meng pier. 268 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Phetra Marine National Park k Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^U TSUC2FT

Road Map C6. Park HQ off Hwy 416, 48 miles (77 kms) S of Trang. n Park HQ (0-7478-3074). g from Pak Bara. & 0 = www.dnp.go.th

Extending across the maritime territory of both Trang and Satun provinces, Ko Phetra Marine National Park com- prises more than 30 islands including the main island Idyllic stretch of sand bordered by turquoise waters, Ko Bulon Leh of Ko Phetra which is also the largest in the group. Pak Bara l Ko Bulon Leh z Established in 1984, the park covers nearly 193 sq miles 8T 7TFT‰ U TS7iYLG6UG (500 sq km) of marine terri- tory. Almost all the islands Road Map C6. 34 miles (55 km) S Road Map C6. 24 miles (38 km) are made up of interesting of Trang. @ g 4 n TAT, W of Pak Bara. g from Pak Bara. limestone formations. Several Trang-Satun (0-7521-5867). n TAT, Trang-Satun (0-7521-5867). of them are frequented by sea Ko Tarutao Park HQ (0-7478-3485). 0 = turtles during the egg-laying season. The cliffs are home to A small seaside town and A tiny yet lovely island, great colonies of bats and fishing village, Pak Bara is Ko Bulon Leh is becoming swiftlets. Rich coral reefs less a tourist destination and popular as an offbeat holiday surround the islands and are more a jumping-off point destination with beautiful ideal diving sites. The clear for Ko Phetra Marine National white sand beaches and waters around the park also Park and Ko Tarutao Marine crystal-clear waters. Once a support numerous marine National Park (see pp270–75). backpackers’ hangout, the species, including the The park headquarters for facilities on the island are dugong, numerous Ko Phetra Marine turning increasingly upscale colorful fish, and National Park is as commercial development is starfish. Although it located 3 km (2 already under way. The main is a national park, this miles) from Pak Bara. A beach lies along Ao Mamuang is also an economically visitors’ center for Ko or Mango Bay. A small chao viable fishing zone Common Tarutao is also located lae community (see p204) with plenty of crabs, starfish in this town. However, lives in the northern part of lobsters, and squid. On the town is a pleasant the island. The local economy the islands, the vegetation is stopover with reasonable depends on fishing, coconut generally dense; there are accommodation options, good and rubber farming. Visitors mangroves as well as lush seafood restaurants, and bars. can enjoy swimming and rain forests. Overnight visitors A number of dive shops and snorkeling among the off- can stay at the park’s lodges travel agencies have become shore coral reefs. Ko Bulon at Ko Li Di, or at the park established in recent times to Leh is best reached by boats headquarters on the main- serve visitors. They can also that run daily from Pak Bara. land. Camping is also allowed arrange sea-kayaking tours in in some places. the surrounding waters. Satun x K2jG‰

Road Map C6. 71 miles (115 km) SE of Pak Bara. * 22,000. @ c g 4 n TAT, Trang-Satun (0-7521- 5867). ( daily.

A quiet town lying close to the Malaysian border, Satun is the capital of the . The town has the highest Muslim population in Thailand; Thai and Malay- Muslims make up about 80 Passengers at Pak Bara waiting to take ferries to nearby national parks percent of the population.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 LOWER ANDAMAN COAST 269

Yet, Satun is different from the other Muslim majority towns of Pattani (see p284), Yala, and Narathiwat (see p285). While these latter follow traditional orthodox Islamic practices, Satun is far more culturally and socially liberal; funda- mentalist Islam or separatism does not enjoy any support here. This makes Satun the most laid-back of the Muslim- dominated provinces. The town has quite a few attractions including the Satung Friday Mosque, also known as Masayit Mambang, built in Malay-Muslim style The colorful façade of Po Je Kang Chinese Temple, Satun with a minaret and dome, and decorated with glazed which is an interesting blend Banthat Mountains near the tiles, glass, and marble. It also of Malaysian, Thai, Chinese Malaysian border covering an has a library in its basement. and Muslim styles. area of 76 sq miles (196 sq Housed in a fine Sino- km). Located around a valley, Portuguese-style mansion, the  Satun National Museum Thale Ban has several water- Soi 5, Satun Thani Rd. Tel 0-7472- Satun National Museum was falls and its limestone hills are 2140. # 9am–4pm Wed–Sun. = the residence of the former dotted with caves. It is home governor of Satun. This two-  Wat Chanathipchaloem to a variety of wildlife such story building has a collection Sulakanukoon Rd, Tambon Phiman. as tapir, serow, barking deer, of artifacts showcasing the Tel 0-7471-1996. # 8am–4pm fishing cats, and sun bears. local history and culture. Visitors can see rare birds Another important monument such as bat hawks, which is Wat Chanathipchaloem, the Thale Ban National feed on bats and other small town’s first Buddhist temple prey, consuming them whole c that dates back 200 years. The Park in midair. The park’s marked entrance is guarded by two Ni4ET6VL€$'T2^4SUG76‰ trails lead to several pools yakshas (nature spirits). The and two waterfalls – the wat has a distinctive two-story Road Map C6. Park HQ off Hwy nine-level Nam Tok Ya Roy, ubosot – the first story is a 4184, 23 miles (37 km) E of Satun. 3 miles (5 km) north of the preaching hall and the second @ n Park HQ (0-7472-2736). park headquarters, and Nam is used for religious practices. 0 = www.dnp.go.th Tok Ton Piew, 6 miles (10 km) The Po Je Kang Chinese north of the park headquarters. Temple, and the bustling A lush expanse of tropical There are bungalow accom- fresh food market are other rain forest, Thale Ban National modations, a campsite, and a worthwhile sights. Visitors Park was established in 1980. restaurant. Satun acts as a can also try the local cuisine The park extends over the gateway to the park.

Walkway leading to the quaint viewing platform near headquarters of Thale Ban National Park 270 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLAND AREA BY AREA

Ko Tarutao Marine National Park v Ni4ET6VLt$'T2`2SFiU2T Designated as Thailand’s second marine national park in 1974, Ko Tarutao comprises 51 islands. Named after the largest island in the group, which is also the site of the park headquarters, Ko Tarutao is part of A nemo with -PXFS an ecologically rich area also comprising "OEBNBO white coral $PBTU Malaysia’s Langkawi islands, located 5 miles

(3 km) to the south. World famous for its pristine diving "OEBNBO4FB sites, rich marine life, and outstanding beauty, this 1BL#BSB 575 sq mile (1,489 sq km) area is home to an incredible ,P5BSVUBP.BSJOF variety of flora and fauna. With olive ridley and hawksbill /BUJPOBM1BSL turtles, langurs, several species of squirrels, 25 percent of the world’s tropical fish species, and over 100 varieties KEY of birds, Ko Tarutao is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. Area illustrated

Lovers’ Gate at Ko Khai The work of wind and waves over millennia, Lovers’ Gate is a naturally carved limestone . Ko Rawi arch, now a famous symbol representing the An ideal spot for snorkeling, beautiful Ko marine national park. Rawi remains relatively uninhabited. It is blessed with fine beaches, rich coral Ko Adang, a picturesque reefs, and a densely jungled interior. +O"ULON,EH isle covered with verdant MILESKM rain forest, is surrounded by rich coral reefs. ,P ,MBOH ,P,IBJ

,P ,P5B/HB 3BXJ ,P "EBOH ,P:BOH 1JSBUF ,P#VUBOH 8BUFSGBMM ,P%POH

,P)JO/HBN ,P4BLBJ -BFN 4PO 4AMMALANG MILESKM ,P4BSBOH ,P-JQF ,P )BU1BUUBZB 5BSBOH . Ko Lipe Small Ko Lipe has STAR SIGHTS emerged as the focus of development in Ko . Ko Rawi Tarutao. Ko Lipe has . Ko Lipe a great selection of resorts and restau- . Dugong Sightings rants, and offers a variety of activities.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KO TARUTAO 271

Sea Turtles VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Four different species of sea turtle – green, Road Map C6. Park HQ hawksbill, olive ridley, 51 miles (82 km) W of Satun. and leatherback, – n Park HQ (0-7478-3485 or find protection in the 0-7478-3597). g from Pak park. Ao Son, on Ko Bara; regular crossings mid-Nov to mid-Apr only. & Tarutao, is a favored breeding and nesting ground for turtles.

KEY Laem Tanyong Hara, the Beach scenic northernmost point Dive site of the park, makes a great swimming spot. Area of natural beauty Viewpoint Ferry service Visitor information 0AK"ARA Trail MILESKM Ferry route ,P-F-BI Jungle Treks Trekking along nature trails - makes for an interesting and "P1BOUF 5P#V$MJGG .BMBLB rewarding alternative to a 5IBN +BSB,IF day at the beach. Trekkers "P+BL will see an amazing variety "P.PMBF ,P of birds and animals. ,MBOH

"P "P5BMPI 4PO 8BX /BN5PL -P1P ,P ,PMP ,P5BSVUBP Nam Tok Lu Du, a lovely picnic spot, is well known for its ,P . Dugong Sightings refreshing water. 4JOHIB 1SJTPO The waters off Ko Tarutao are "P $BNQ famous for sightings of the gentle .BLIBN "P5BMPI 6EBOH dugong. These rare mammals ,P ,P graze on verdant sea-grass beds 3BOH 1BMJUPOH /PL and avoid contact with humans.

0 km 5

0 miles 5

Prison Camp Also notorious as Prison Island, Ko Tarutao housed several prison camps during World War II. The prisoners, forced to live in inhuman conditions without food or medicine, later took to piracy. 272 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring Ko Tarutao Marine and offers spectacular views National Park across the archipelago. The trek leading to this site begins The largest island of the marine park archipelago is the close to the headquarters and 16-mile (26-km) long Ko Tarutao, which offers great visitors can stop to read about scenic variety. Tropical rain forests cover most of its the large variety of flora and fauna in the forest described surface, which reaches a maximum altitude of 2,300 ft on plaques along the way. (701 m). Ferries from Pak Bara dock at Ao Pante Malaka, To-Bu Cliff is considered to the location of the park headquarters, bungalows, a be an exceptionally beautiful restaurant, and the island’s only store. Just east of Ao and romantic spot from which Pante Malaka lie the natural attractions of Tham Jara-Khe to watch the sun setting over and To-Bu Cliff. Offshore islands such as Ko Adang, Ko the Andaman Sea. Visitors, Lipe, and Ko Rawi are popular beach destinations, while however, must be careful there is excellent diving at nearby Ko Kra and Ko Yang. while making the trek to the cliff and head back before it gets dark. There is no elec- tricity in the area and the descent of this rocky outcrop can get quite treacherous once the sun has set.

Tham Jara-Khe 3†%FU!† 2 miles (3 km) NE of Ao Pante Malaka. Located near Laem Tanyong Hara, the northern cape of Ko Tarutao, Tham Jara-Khe is a 984-ft (300-m) deep cavern filled with beautiful stalactites and stalagmites. The cave is also notorious as Crocodile Bungalow housing the Ko Tarutao park headquarters, Ao Pante Malaka Cave because of the danger- ous saltwater crocodiles that Ao Pante Malaka background at the tourist once inhabited it. Just 20 N€THA6U2DSGS T service center. Longtail boats minutes away from Khlong 51 miles (82 km) W of Satun. from Ao Pante Malaka also Pante Malaka in Ao Pante 4 from Pak Bara. & single park make the trip to Tham Jara- Malaka, Tham Jara-Khe is fee. 0 = www.dnp.go.th Khe, Ao Son, and Ao Taloh accessible by longtail boat The site of the Ko Tarutao Udang nearby. along the beautiful mangrove- Marine National Park head- lined canal. Explorers must quarters, Ao Pante Malaka is a To-Bu Cliff use rafts to navigate their way lovely bay on the northwestern 9TY2vS7j within the cave, which is best shore of Ko Tarutao. The long 1 mile (2 km) E of Ao Pante Malaka. visited at low tide when beach, lined with casuarinas, A 20-minute walk inland from navigation is easier; the is great for swimming. Ao Ao Pante Malaka, through exploration takes about an Pante Malaka offers more dense evergreen forest, leads hour. Visitors are advised to activities for visitors than any visitors to the popular To-Bu carry their own supplies, other spot on the main island. Cliff. This 364-ft (111-m) high especially flashlights, while These include a biking trail cliff is clearly visible from the visiting the cave, as facilities and opportunities for sea- Ko Tarutao park headquarters here are minimal. kayaking. The bay also serves as the harbor for boats from Pak Bara, 10 miles (16 km) away. A choice of bungalows, long houses, and cabins pro- vide simple accommodations for visitors to the park. Camp- ing is possible here, especially along the beach, but visitors must acquire prior approval of the park authorities. A good park-run restaurant offers treats and refreshing cooling drinks. Visitors should also see the exhibition on the park’s historical and natural Kayakers rowing under the precipitous To-Bu Cliff

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK 273

Secluded beach at Ao Son, housing a lone ranger station

Ao Jak and Ao Molae and tall dipterocarp trees and Ao Taloh Udang N€TH%T VGSN€THDNSVGS the trek takes about two N€TH2SYGdS‰Ni1$ 3 miles (5 km) S of Ao Pante hours. Ao Son is visited by 15 miles (24 km) S of Ao Pante Malaka. & nesting turtles each year Malaka. & Located to the south of Ao between September and April. Situated at the southern tip of Pante Malaka, Ao Jak and The best time to see these Ko Tarutao, Ao Taloh Udang contiguous Ao Molae are two gentle creatures is at night. is a deep, sheltered bay fac- beautiful bays with pristine There are no facilities of any ing the tiny offshore island white sand beaches, great for kind on the beach, except of Ko Rang Nok, home walks and picnics. Backed by for a small ranger station. to thousands of swiflets. dense coconut plantations, Ao Camping is possible here Undoubtedly associated Jak has no accommodations with the approval of the with Ko Tarutao’s or other facilities. park authorities. intriguing past, this bay Ao Molae, clearly the more Treks from Ao Son was the site of a prison developed of the two beaches, to the interior of Ko camp for political cap- lies a little further south of Ao Tarutao lead to two tives. Several well-known Jak. It can be reached by beautiful waterfalls – prisoners, including the passing through a small Nam Tok Lu Du, or Lu Statue at author of the first mangrove swamp at low tide. Du Falls which is a 1- prison camp English-Thai dictionary At high tide, however, it is hour hike away, and and a grandson of Rama necessary to wade through the Nam Tok Lo Po, or Lo Po Falls, VII (r.1925–35), were incarcer- incoming seawater for a short which is 2 hours away. Both ated here. The inhuman prison distance. There are a few the waterfalls offer freshwater conditions forced inmates to simple bamboo houses belong- pools which are good for take to piracy, looting passing ing to local fishermen here, bathing. Further south is Ao ships. This activity was cur- along with some basic bunga- Makham, or Tamarind Bay, tailed by the British in 1946. low accommodations and a which is reached by a long Visitors can go to see the restaurant. A small ranger and difficult trek through ruins of the prison. However, camp is also located here and dense jungle; hiring a longtail there are no facilities at Ao visitors are allowed to camp boat from Ao Pante Malaka is Taloh Udang, apart from a on the beach. usually advisable. ranger station.

Ao Son N€THK6 8 miles (13 km) S of Ao Pante Malaka. Situated further down the west coast of Ko Tarutao, Ao Son is a sizable bay with a long, white sandy beach. It offers good swimming and snorkeling opportunities and is best reached by longtail boat from Ao Pante Malaka. However, Ao Son can also be accessed on foot from Ao Molae, 5 miles (8 km) to the north. There is no road here, but a rough track leads south through clumps of wild banana Path leading to the remains of the prison camp at Ao Taloh Udang 274 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Enthusiastic snorkelers making the most of the clear waters off Ko Adang

Ko Adang from lofty heights of up to approached from Ko Adang. U TSNT1$‰ 2,300 ft (701 m); perhaps the Ko Khai, or Egg Island, locat- 26 miles (42 km) SW of Ao Pante highest is Nam Tok Chon ed 11 miles (18 km) from Ko Malaka. g from Ao Pante Malaka. Salat, which has water all Adang, is too small to stay 0 year round. Another pictur- on, but makes a good diving About 12 sq miles (31 sq km) esque spot, Pirate Waterfall is or snorkeling stopover. The in area Ko Adang is almost reached by a 3-mile (2-km) island has a lovely white sand completely covered in tropical walkway from near Laem Son. beach, and a beautiful natural rain forest. On the island’s It is said to have been a source rock arch, and is favored by south western side lies Laem of freshwater for pirates living sea turtles for nesting. Son, passing the much smaller on the island. Pha Chado, a Visitors can stay overnight islets of Ko Klang and Ko cliff located a 30-minute walk at Ko Adang, although book- Khai en route. Ko Adang is from the ranger station at ing in advance is advisable. famous for its clear waters, Laem Son to the south of the There is a restaurant serving fine quartz beaches, and well- island, offers fine views fine local and Western dishes. preserved coral reefs, which across the white sandy cape provide a habitat for shoals of Ko Adang. Ko Rawi of brightly colored fish and a Other smaller offshore U TSFTH host of other exotic marine islands such as Ko Lipe, Ko 29 miles (47 km) SW of Ao Pante flora and fauna. Dong, Ko Hin Ngam, and Ko Malaka. 4 from Ko Lipe. The leafy interiors of Ko Yang, are also great for swim- The second largest island in Adang are dotted with several ming, diving, sea-kayaking, the Adang-Rawi group, Ko beautiful waterfalls cascading and sailing, and are easily Rawi covers an area of about 11 sq miles (28 sq km). It lies just 6 miles (10 km) to the west of Ko Adang, and is similarly blessed with fine beaches, crystal-clear seas, dense, jungled interior, and rich offshore coral reefs. Like Ko Adang, Ko Rawi has a marine park ranger station at Hat Sai Khao, but there are no accommodations on the island; nor are there any shops, restaurants, or other facilities. Camping, however, is a good option for those who want to get away from it all, but requires permission from the park authorities. Best visited as a day trip from nearby Ko Adang or Ko Lipe, Ko Rawi offers fantastic swimming, snorkeling, and diving opportunities. The island is also easily accessible by chartered longtail boat Readying for a splash in the blue waters off Ko Rawi from Ko Lipe.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp308–11 and pp331–3 KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK 275

Ko Lipe side of the island, has U TSLGpU8vS bungalow-style accommoda- 29 miles (47 km) SW of Ao Pante tions and good views over- Malaka. g from Ao Pante Malaka. looking tiny Ko Kra offshore, 0 yet another popular location. Located 2 miles (1 km) south The main chao lae settlement of Ko Adang, the much smaller is located just south of the island of Ko Lipe, sometimes beach. The area also houses called Ko Sipe by locals, has several shops, a few restau- become the most developed rants, and utility stores such and popular destination of the as a medical dispensary. Ko Tarutao Marine National Visitors can take longtail Park. Originally inhabited only boats, manned by chao lae, to by a small community of chao other offshore islands nearby. lae, or sea gypsies, the island has seen rapid development Ko Yang in recent years with a number U TSET$ of resorts and hotels being 27 miles (43 km) SW of Ao Pante established on its beautiful Malaka. g from Ko Lipe Visitors on the pebbly beach of beaches. Ko Lipe has just A tiny but beautiful island Ko Hin Ngam about everything going for it – equidistant from Ko Adang fine, clear blue waters, good and Ko Rawi, Ko Yang Sea. Located about 4 miles coral reefs, powdery white remains uninhabited, even (6 km) northwest of Ko Lipe beaches, and a moun- today. It has a small, perfect and about 3 miles (5 km) tainous, thickly white sand beach, ideal west of Ko Adang, beautiful forested interior. for sunbathing. Ko Yang Ko Hin Ngam is uninhabited The main focus of is surrounded by rich and isolated making it the recent development coral reefs, mainly perfect snorkeling spot. The has been at Hat comprising hard corals most striking feature of the Pattaya on Ko Lipe’s The harmless such as staghorn, leaf, island is its small beach which southern coast, where hermit crab and brain, making the is covered with smooth black there are several bun- island a popular snor- pebbles in various shapes and galow-style resorts and a keling spot. Fortunately, its distinctive patterns. According number of laid-back bars and distance from the mainland to a local legend, Chaopho restaurants. The main activi- and nearby Ko Lipe ensures Tarutao, the guardian spirit ties here are sunbathing, that it is never crowded. of the marine park, curses swimming, and snorkeling. In Ko Yang is best visited as a anyone who dares to take fact, the coral reefs, easily visi- day trip from nearby Ko Lipe away anything belonging to ble a short distance from the or Ko Adang, by hiring the park. True or not, visitors beach, are home to almost 25 longtail boats. should avoid picking up percent of the tropical fish these pebbles as souvenirs. varieties found in the area. Ko Hin Ngam Ko Hin Ngam is best visited A number of simple tracks, U TSL^6$TD as a day trip from Ko Lipe in including one leading across 27 miles (43 km) SW of Ao Pante a hired longtail boat. It is the island’s narrow center to Malaka. 4 from Ko Lipe. advisable to combine a trip Sunset Beach on its western Like Ko Yang nearby, Ko Hin to Ko Hin Ngam with a visit coast, can be used to explore Ngam, or Island of Beautiful to nearby Ko Yang before the interior of the island. Stones, is a tiny outcrop set in returning to the much more Sunlight Beach, on the eastern the immensity of the Andaman crowded Ko Lipe.

The narrow, jutting strip of the popular Sunset Beach at Ko Lipe

THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 277

DEEP SOUTH

mong the loveliest and least visited regions of the country, the Deep South has more in common with neighboring Malaysia A than with the rest of coastal Thailand. The region’s distinct culture, food, history, and religion are a novel experience for travelers, yet, political strife keeps many away. The beautiful forested mountains, palm-fringed coastline, and relative isolation make this southern region an alluring and unusual holiday destination.

Despite being a part of Thailand of Songkhla, near the coast, for centuries, the Deep South is most people are Muslim and culturally different from the rest the minarets of mosques of the country. The influence of replace the gilded spires of Indian, Chinese, and Malaysian Buddhist temples. Pattani, an cultures can be seen in the important semi-independent Malay region’s architecture and kingdom in the 17th century, is now ethnic diversity. Skin tones a Thai center of Islamic scholarship. are noticeably darker than in Hat Yai, the commercial capital, the rest of the country. The has grown from an agricultural people speak an unusual intonated and railroad town to a dialect of Thai and Malay (closely destination for shopping and related to the language spoken in entertainment, while the fishing Malaysian Kelantan), and even the villages of the south have a distinct food is spicier, characterized by bitter Muslim identity. curries laced liberally with turmeric. However, this complex ethnic mix The diverse traditions of this region has also led to violence perpetrated are especially evident in the town of by separatists seeking autonomy. Songkhla, a cosmopolitan cultural Guerilla warfare and bombings have center with wats, museums, and an disturbed the peace in this area. As a ancient Thai, Muslim, and Portuguese result, tourism has declined although heritage. The area north of Songkhla none of the attacks have been has a Buddhist majority, while south directed toward foreign visitors.

A group of Muslim schoolgirls making their way across a bridge over the Songkhla Lakes

A combination of Islamic and Portuguese architectural styles in the Kru Se Mosque, Pattani 278 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Deep South Due to its proximity to Malaysia, the Deep South has more in common with its neighbor than the rest of Thailand. Extending over the provinces of Yala, Narathiwat, Songkhla, and Pattani, this southernmost belt of the country covers a huge area. Hat Yai is the commercial capital of the region and is also the main transport hub. The towns of Pattani, Saiburi, and Narathiwat with their large Muslim populations are an ethnic melting pot of Malay-Muslim culture. Songkhla is a charming town with a rich heritage and is regarded as /BLIPO4J the region’s cultural capital. The sprawling Songkhla 5IBNNBSBU Lakes form the most significant geographical feature of 1BL,IMPOH the Deep South, and are home to a variety of wildlife 4HALE especially birds. Although there are fewer natural .OI attractions, this region’s historical towns, mosques, 4HALE.OI )VB,P 7ATERFOWL 3BOPU and villages give it a unique flavor. 0ARK 4BJ 4HALE,UANG #BOQIPU $IFEJ/HBN 1IBUUIBMVOH +HU+HUT 7ATERBIRD0ARK 4J/BLIBSJO 40/(,)-" ,POHSB -",&4 4BIJOH1ISB

-P$IBOH 1BL1IBZVO ,SB " 5IBNPU A N T 1B#PO 3BLDIB H

A

T 4HALE3AP  - 3BUUBQIVN 3ONGKHLA

O

U 5IB

N

T ,IBP A

I 1ISB N

S )"5:"* $IB-VOH

4HALE"AN .ATIONAL0ARK ,IMPOH /HBF

Aquatic plants covering the lake at Thale Noi Waterfowl Park 1BEBOH#FTBS

4BEBP 0 km 25 %BO/PL

0 miles 25 1FOBOH

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns and Cities Narathiwat 7 Pattani 5 Saiburi 6 Songkhla pp280–81 2 8

Beaches and Islands Hat Yai 1 Ko Yo 4

Areas of Natural Beauty Songkhla Lakes p282 3 Painted korlae fishing boats at Khao Seng, Songkhla

For additional map symbols see back flap DEEP SOUTH 279

Thailand’s longest concrete bridge connecting the mainland to Ko Yo

GETTING AROUND KEY Hat Yai is the main base with direct and frequent road, rail, Expressway and air links to Bangkok and the rest of the region. Other Major road ways to get to the Deep South are by road from Nakhon Si Thammarat to Phattalung. All the larger towns are well Minor road served by local and long-distance bus services, while Railway Phatthalung, Hat Yai, and Yala have railway stations with services to either Bangkok or Malaysia. Cars can be easily International border hired and driving is the best way to explore this region.

40/(,)-" SEE ALSO ,0:0 • Where to Stay p311 'ULFOF • Where to Eat p333 4HAILAND

,IMPOH1SBEP +RU3E $IBOB -OSQUE 1"55"/* 1BOBSF 

A

. /BN,IBP  G 5IF1IB P /POH$IJL N A #BP/PL O H L 4 :BSBOH H + 4"*#63* /B5IBXJ #BO/B .BZP 1SBEV ,BQIBX .BJ,BFO 4BUIPO 4BCB:PJ

#BO,IVIB :BMB /JBOH 3BNBO #BDIP 3BJ A ,BCBOH 0H 7AT+HUHA E H 0HIMUK ,PUB 4  #BSV :J/HP /"3"5)*8"5

G 1B5BF 3VTP

N I O N

L #BMB

A

H

T .BOBOH5BZBX

T + A 3BOHBF 0 #BUPOH 5",#"* #BOOBOH4BUB 4J4BLIPO %V4POH:P /B/BL 1BMVSV ,BXB "ANG,ANG $AM $IBOH1IVFBL $IBOBF 3A #BO5P I" UR 4VOHBJ,P-PL I ,JB 8BFOH 4VLIJSJO #V,FUB 1IV,IBP5IPOH #BO$IBOUIBSBU #FUPOH

#BO4B)P 280 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Songkhla 2 K$!GT Once known as Singora, or Lion City, Songkhla grew to prominence as an important trade center in the 18th century. Located between the Gulf of Thailand and Thale Sap Songkhla, part of the country’s largest lake system, it is an important fishing port, administra- tive, and educational center. A sense of history perme- ates the city and is evident in its architecture, cuisine, and language. Fringed by beaches, Songkhla is home Three young devotees praying at a to museums, bustling night markets, and wats. It is a Buddhist shrine, Hat Yai melting pot of Thai and Muslim cultures where trendy bars coexist with fishing villages and old Portuguese- Hat Yai 1 style houses, reflecting the city’s multicultural heritage. LT1XL*t } Khao Noi Road Map C5. 522 miles (840 km) U!T6†NE S of Bangkok. * 70,000. One of two hills in Songhkhla, k 7 miles (11 km) W of Hat Yai. Khao Noi is located just a £ c n TAT, Hat Yai (0-7424- short distance south of Hat 3747). ( daily. _ Chinese Lunar Samila. It offers great views of Festival (Sep/Oct). the city. There is an old chedi and a topiary garden on the The commercial and transport hilltop as well as a park with capital of southern Thailand, tennis courts and food stalls Hat Yai has grown affluent at the bottom. due to its strategic railroad junction, its discounted prod-  Songkhla National ucts, and the constant flow of Museum travelers from Malaysia on A^A^5C0.zK3T6VL€$'T2^K$!GT weekends. Various languages 1 mile (2 km) S of Hat Samila, and dialects can be heard Bronze mermaid statue dedicated Wichianchon Rd. Tel 0-7431-1728. around the cosmopolitan to Mae Thorani at Hat Samila # 9am–4pm Wed–Sun. & downtown area. The museum is housed in a Hat Yai is Thailand’s third L Hat Samila beautiful building that is in largest city, yet, it has few LT1KD^LGT‰ itself a major attraction for cultural attractions. Most Songkhla’s main beach, visitors. It was built in 1878, visitors to the city spend their Hat Samila is dominated by a in the southern Thai-Chinese time shopping for bargains. bronze mermaid statue of Mae style as the residence for the Electrical goods at the Kim Thorani, the Hindu-Buddhist then deputy governor of Yong market, fruits from earth goddess. This revered Songkhla – Phraya street vendors, imported statue is an icon for the whole Suntharanuraksa. This old leather goods, and fashion- province. Songkhla derives mansion was renovated and able department stores are its name from the two lion- converted into a museum in some of the popular options. shaped islands, which are 1977. A hidden grass court- Visitors can also take in a now called Ko Nu, or Rat yard flanks the two spiral bullfighting bout. This sport, Island, and Ko Maeo, or Cat staircases which lead to the particular to the south, is dif- Island. These are among Hat wood-paneled second story ferent from its Spanish coun- Samila’s main attractions. where most exhibits are kept. terpart; here bulls fight other bulls and bets are placed on the outcome of the matches. Wat Hat Yai Nai, near the city center, has the third larg- est Reclining Buddha image in the world – 115 ft (35 m) long and 49 ft (15 m) high.

Environs Ton Nga Chang, 15 miles (24 km) west of Hat Yai com- prises two streams cascading over seven tiers, which is best visited in the cool season from November to February. Former governor’s residence presently housing Songkhla National Museum

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p311 and p333 DEEP SOUTH 281

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map D5. 16 miles (26 km) NE of Hat Yai. * 86,000. k 26 miles (42 km) SW of Songkhla. £ c g n TAT, Hat Yai (0-7424-3747). ( daily. _ Chinese Lunar Festival (Sep/Oct).

Khao Seng U!TUKr$ 2 miles (3 km) S of Hat Samila. A traditional Muslim fishing Ornate entrance of Wat Chai Mongkhon, Songkhla village, Khao Seng is located on a headland near Hat The fairly comprehensive  Patrsee Museum Samila. Famous for its colorful collection covers most periods A^A^5C0.gA4JF korlae boats (see p285), the of Thai art and includes 2 miles (3km) S of Hat Samila, Wat village also has an infor- Benjarong pottery, 7th- to 9th- Matchimawat, Saiburi Rd. mation center for the coastal century Dvaravati plinths, # Wed–Sun. & fisheries and is a good place Buddha images, and remnants Housed inside the Wat to learn about fishing – the of Ban Chiang pottery dating Matchimawat, which dates mainstay of coastal Thailand. back to 3000 BC. back 400 years, the Patrsee Museum has a wide range of  Wat Chai Mongkhon artifacts indicating the impor- H1W'ED$"G tance of Songkhla’s former 2 miles (3 km) S of Hat Samila, trade links. Exhibits include a Chai-Phet Mongkhon Rd. # 8am– 14-in (35-cm) stone image of 4pm daily. Ganesha, the Hindu elephant A revered temple in Songkhla, god, dating back to the late Wat Chai Mongkhon has a 6th century; enamelware from chedi built to house a Buddha the Chinese Qing dynasty; relic brought from Sri Lanka 15th-century U Thong ware, in 1892 by a monk called Na and 18th-century European Issaro. The wat also houses a plates. However, the arrange- Colorful korlae fishing boats Reclining Buddha image. ment is slightly haphazard. anchored on the beach, Khao Seng

0 meters 750

.FSNBJE 0 yards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at Samila 4 1) "/( "*# *5) &5 6  - 2  Khao Noi * . & 6 0/(, - 3 " / * ) 5 " 5 Patrsee Museum ) / , 1BUSTFF 0/ " ) 3 , 0 .VTFVN Songkhla National Museum ) / 0  / / 4 / " )BU:BJ Wat Chai Mongkhon 0 * , *OUFSOBUJPOBM )BU:BJ3BJMXBZ "JSQPSU 4UBUJPO NJMFT LN NJMFT LN Key to Symbols see back flap 282 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Songkhla Lakes 3 4SUGKT7K$!GT

Road Map C5. 6 miles (10 km) NW of Songkhla. @ 4 n TAT, Hat Yai (0-7424-3747). & 8 =

The largest natural lake system in Thailand are formed by the Songkhla Lakes. A coastal lagoon, it consists of three interconnected water bodies – Thale Sap, Thale Luang, and Thale Noi. The lakes are separated from the sea by sandy ridges and are fed by water from the Longtail boats navigating through lotuses and other vegetation, Thale Noi forested inland hills as well as seawater. They support an channel. This shallow lake } Thale Noi extraordinary biodiversity as covers an area of 190 sq miles 4SUG6†NE the lakes are a feeding (492 sq km). Although the The northernmost and ground for thousands of water has high levels of smallest of the three lakes, birds migrating from as far as salinity, it attains freshwater Thale Noi is very shallow and China. They are also home to conditions during the rainy almost entirely covered with a small population of the rare season. This lake is part of aquatic plants with a few Irawaddy dolphin. the protected area scattered islets. Alhough it is and is dotted with many small predominantly a freshwater } Thale Sap Songkhla islands and surrounded by lake, it becomes brackish 4SUGKT7K$!GT paddy fields. The Khu Khut between May and October. A brackish water lake, Thale Waterbird Park is the star Thale Noi is home to the Sap Songkhla is the attraction of the area. largest bird sanctuary southernmost of the three Established in 1976, this little- in Thailand – the Thale Noi lakes lying between visited waterfowl park Waterfowl Park – a resting is home to over 200 ground for thousands of to the west and species of birds, exotic migratory birds. The to including a number of best way to explore the park, the east. This lake bitterns, egrets, and herons. which covers 12 sq miles covers an area of 146 sq The best time to visit (30 sq km), is by longtail boat. miles (378 sq km) and is during early morning The best season for bird- is a haven for bird- or late afternoon, watching is between January watchers. Because it A wattled between December and April, when over 150 is the closest to the sea, jacana and March. The park species of birds arrive at the Thale Sap Songkhla is headquarters can be park, swelling its population the most salty, and attracts reached by bus or taxi from to about 100,000. There is a more seabirds than its two Songkhla. Visitors can hire viewing platform on the lake northern neighbors. boats from the fisheries and dawn is the best time for department for special bird- visitors to get a glimpse of } Thale Luang watching tours. Thale Noi’s birds. Notable 4SUGLGH$ inhabitants include the purple Located north of Thale Sap, O Khu Khut Waterbird Park swamp hen, and the long- Thale Luang is connected to @ 4 n Park HQ (0-7439-7042). legged nok i-kong. the former by a narrow # dawn to dusk daily. & 8 = Apart from lotuses and lilies, the most common veg- etation covering the lake is don kok, a reed which the nok i-kong use to build nest- ing platforms. There are about a 100 families who live in raised wooden houses along the lake and make a living from fishing and weaving reeds into mats.

O Thale Noi Waterfowl Park @ 4 n Park HQ (0-7468- 5230). # 8:30am–4:30pm daily. & 8 0 = www. thailandbirdwatching.com Restaurant on stilts at the Khu Khut Waterbird Park, Thale Luang

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p311 and p333 DEEP SOUTH 283

Muay Thai Muay thai (Thai kickboxing) is Thailand, this sport is immensely the country’s national passion. popular in the south where the The origins of this unique sport Khon Tai, people of the south- remain uncertain; it is believed ern Thai peninsula, are believed to have evolved from krabi- to have a fiery nature. The krabong, a related technique of sport’s appeal extends from self defence. The traditional Nakhon Si Thammarat and Hat form of muay thai is further Ancient muay Yai to Phuket and Ko Samui. divided – muay korat from the Thai manuscript Once limited to Thailand and its northeast, muay lopburi from neighboring countries, such as the central region, muay tasao from Cambodia, muay thai now attracts an the north, and muay chaiya in the immense following internationally – south. Although enjoyed throughout both as a martial art and a sport.

THAI BOXING Thai kickboxing uses parts of the body not used in Western boxing, such as the feet and elbows. Thai boxing matches are also faster paced, and are thus limited to five rounds of three minutes each, sepa- rated by a short break. Professional boxers, who may start rigorous training as young as six years of age, often retire by 25.

Feet are kept bare in training sessions, although ankle cov- ers may be worn during a match.

Nai Khanom Tom was a legendary Thai boxer who defeated nine Burmese champi- Amulets (see p55), worn around the Kicks are common ons in 1774 and won boxer’s biceps during the match, in Thai his freedom (he was a are said to offer protection. boxing. prisoner of war).

Before the match, the boxer performs a dance (wai khru ram muay) to honor the teacher. The movements involve sweep- ing arm motions, which are said to draw the power of earth, air, fire, and water into the body.

A ringside piphat band is an essen- tial element of muay thai. At the opening cere- In the stadium, the audience becomes mony, the music excited, shouting encouragement to the is soft, but slowly boxers. Thais bet furiously, often staking increases in tem- large sums on their favorite fighter. po, adding to the Bouts between famous boxers may be thrill of the match. sold out well in advance. 284 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

Ko Yo 4 U TSEN

Road Map C5. 9 miles (14 km) SW of Songkhla. g 4 0 = A small and secluded island lying near the eastern end of Thale Sap, Ko Yo is best visited on a day trip from Hat Yai or Songkhla. The island is connected to the mainland by the 3-mile (2-km) long Prem Tinsulanond bridge. Built in 1986, this bridge directly links this secluded island with the other southern provinces. It can also be reached by longtail boats. Aerial view of the floating fish farms around Ko Yo. Ko Yo is covered with lush greenery and its chief attrac- and weapons. There is also a by Islamic extremists against tions include orchards, two suan yaa samunprai, or a the minority Buddhist popu- ancient wats – Wat Khao Bo natural herb garden, within lation. Apart from the Matsayit and Wat Tai Yo – and the the museum’s grounds. Klang mosque, there are few local handwoven cotton fabric buildings of much interest. available throughout the  Ko Yo Folklore Museum However, Pattani is lively, island. It is also famous for its Tel 07459-1611. g 4 # especially around the harbor fisheries and boasts a number 8.30am–5pm daily. & 0 = with its brightly colored of good seafood restaurants korlae boats. on its northern end. Visitors 5 can hire a motorcycle to Pattani Environs explore Ko Yo’s bylanes. The 822T6 The Kru Se mosque, 4 miles excellent Ko Yo Folklore (6 km) east of town was Museum established by the Road Map D6. 81 miles (130 km) built by a Chinese merchant, Institute for Southern Thai SE of Songkhla. * 74,000.£ @ Lim To Khieng who married Studies in 1991, was built to c n TAT, Narathiwat (0-7352- a local woman and converted preserve and showcase the 2411). ( daily. _ Lim Ko Niaw to Islam. As a display of his folk traditions of this region. Festival (Mar). devotion he started building The museum is set in an a mosque. His sister sailed attractive series of Thai sala- Founded as early as the 15th from China to protest about type buildings. It also houses century, Pattani was once the his conversion. Although he a small café, a souvenir shop, capital of an independent promised her that he would a library of books on the Malay-speaking sultanate. return to his homeland upon culture of the Deep South, and Capital of the Pattani province, its completion, he never did a well-documented series of today, it is a spiritual center of and she cursed the building exhibits that includes nang the Malay-Muslim region of and anyone who attempted talung puppets (see p191), the Deep South. About 75 to complete it. Her shrine musical instruments, textiles, percent of the population are Chao Mae Lim Ko Niao and basketry, household artifacts, Malay-speaking Muslims. This the still incomplete mosque fishing equipment, jewelry, region has seen rising violence draw a number of devotees.

The partially built structure of the 16th-century Kru Se mosque, Pattani

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p311 and p333 DEEP SOUTH 285

Saiburi 6 W4F7iF KORLAE FISHING BOATS Colorful, painted fishing boats Road Map D6. 29 miles (47 km) have been built and deco- SE of Pattani. @ n TAT, Narathiwat rated by Muslim fishermen for (0-7352-2411). 0 = hundreds of years all along the east coast of peninsular Also called Selindung Bayu, Thailand. The finest examples meaning Wind Shelter, by the of this now declining industry local fishing population, the originate in the boatyards of small center of Saiburi is the Saiburi district and Pattani capital of Saiburi district. This province. Originally used as Colorful artwork on a korlae is the second-largest fishing sailboats, korlae are now run fishing boat, Saiburi harbor in Pattani province. with engines by local The highlight of this place is fishermen. Painted with Buddhist and Hindu characters by the long stretch of beach predominantly Muslim fishermen, the traditional korlae which is more suited for designs represent the cultural crossover between Thai fishing than lounging around Buddhism and Malay Islam. on the beach. The nearby Hat Wa Sukri is famous for the annual Saiburi Fishing and secluded beaches near Tak Bai 8 Competition in April which Narathiwat, the best of which draws a number of both local is Hat Manao. Small beachside 2T X7 and international anglers shacks sell iced drinks and grilled fish, but alcohol is Road Map E6. 21 miles (34 km) SE rarely found in these areas. of Narathiwat. @ g 4 n TAT, Narathiwat (0-7352-2411). 0 = Environs Taksin Palace, to the south of The last point on the southern town, is the summer coast of Thailand, Tak Bai is residence of the King and located right at the border Queen of Thailand. Open to with Malaysia. The main public when the royal family attraction of the town is Wat is not in residence, the palace Chonthara Sing He, erected in gardens include an aviary. 1873, by Rama V (r.1868– Khao Kong hill located 1910) to stake his claim to a 4 miles (6 km) southwest of region that the British might town, has a monastery have considered incorporating perched on its top with the into their Malay colonies. Boats jostling for space at the busy tallest seated Buddha image This is an outpost of Thai fishing harbor in Saiburi in Thailand. The 79-ft (24-m) Buddhism in a predominantly high statue is decorated with Muslim area. Interestingly, gilded mosaic tiles in the even today, Thai-Buddhist 7 Narathiwat South Indian style. communities called Orang 6FT5^HTK Syam in Malaysia live  Taksin Palace peacefully among their Off Hwy 4084, 5 miles (8 km) S of Road Map D6. 40 miles (65 km) SE Muslim neighbors across Narathiwat. # daily. ¢ usually of Saiburi. * 68,000. £ @ c the border, as they have Aug & Sep. 8 n TAT, Narathiwat (0-7352-2411). for many centuries. ( daily. _ Chao Mae Toe Moe Festival (Apr); Narathiwat Fair (Sep).

Capital of the Narathiwat province and a useful base for exploring the surrounding region, Narathiwat is a laid- back town. However, this province experiences frequent acts of violence carried out by Islamic extremists and Malay- Muslim separatists. Such acts of terrorism are aimed at the Thai-Buddhist administration rather than at Westerners or other visitors. The nearby port is another good spot to see traditional korlae boats. There are also a number of small Mural depicting a busy rural scene, Wat Chonthara Sing He, Tak Bai

TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 288311 WHERE TO EAT 312333 SHOPPING IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 334337 ENTERTAINMENT IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 338341 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS 342349 288 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY ccommodations in Thailand these hotels have little character, come in all price ranges, they generally provide clean, A although the distribution efficient, and friendly service. A of hotels is very uneven. A lot number of luxurious spas, resorts, of development in the beach and villas with contemporary resorts contrasts with the basic Sign for a and stylish decor are appearing bungalows in rural areas. All hotel at a rapid pace all over coastal the major cities have at least one Thailand. Guesthouses provide hotel matching international stand- cheap accommodation options for ards, while Bangkok boasts some travelers on a tight budget. Other of the best hotels in the world. alternatives are designated campsites, Mid-range accommodations are easily bungalows inside national parks, or available in most towns and although spartan dormitories in monasteries.

GUESTHOUSES

Guesthouses offer good value for money. In Bangkok, low-cost accommodations are often disappointing. Outside the capital, however, guest- houses are clean, friendly, and a cheap option for the budget traveler. Some of these have air-conditioning or fans, and may offer swimming pools and restaurants. In the cheapest guesthouses expect basic facilities, although the service is still quite good. The lavishly decorated Conrad Room at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok BUDGET OR THAI HOTEL GRADING rooms, shopping malls, coffee HOTELS AND FACILITIES shops, fitness centers, pools, as well as a number of restau- These budget hotels, also Hotels in Thailand are not rants serving a wide range of known as Thai hotels, are officially graded, although cuisines. However, these cheap, functional, and offer some are registered with the hotels are now facing stiff basic facilities. Most have Thai Hotels Association. Price competition from the smaller fan-cooled or air-conditioned is thus the only indication of and super luxurious boutique rooms and only a few have what to expect. Options range hotels that emphasize atten- restaurants. Although few from basic to luxury. Often tion to detail and offer a more foreigners choose to stay in the best value is found in the personalized service. Thai hotels, they may be the once-luxury establishments only option for travelers in that have been downgraded RESORT HOTELS some remote areas. since the arrival of interna- tional chains. These hotels Like the urban luxury hotels, offer first-class facilities at a the resort hotels of Thailand fraction of the cost. are also unsurpassed in style, comfort, and elegance by the LUXURY HOTELS majority of their international counterparts. Resorts such Thailand’s luxury hotels are as the Banyan Tree Resort on a par with some of the in Phuket (see p307), and best in the world. Rooms the Dusit Thani Hua Hin in come with every conceivable Cha-am (see p298) are design- comfort, from king-sized beds er spaces and oases of and massive televisions, to opulence. Most resorts offer well stocked mini-bars, and their guests a wide range of private terrace Jacuzzis. facilities including Jacuzzis, These upscale hotels offer a spas, saunas, tennis courts, range of facilities, including watersports, and even horse- Swimming pools at a smaller business centers, conference back riding, or polo. beachside resort, Ko Phi Phi

An array of colorful refrigerator magnets for sale in Ko Phi Phi WHERE TO STAY 289

in Bangkok. A room in a Thai DIRECTORY hotel in the capital costs 1,000 baht, falling to 400–750 baht HOTEL GRADING in the provinces. The best AND FACILITIES deals are at guesthouses and beach bungalows that cost Thai Hotels Association between 200 and 1,000 baht. 203-209/3 Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue. Tel 0-2281-9496. BOOKING NATIONAL PARKS Tents pitched for campers at Khao Advance booking is advisable Forestry Department Sam Roi Yot National Park for luxury hotels and resorts, especially during festivals. Phahon Yothin Rd, Bangkok. STAYING IN Thai hotels and guesthouses Tel 0-2562-0760. MONASTERIES are unlikely to take bookings. In bigger towns, the staff BOOKING In small towns, travelers can speaks English. TAT Offices TAT Offices stay in a wat in return for a also make bookings. small donation. Facilities are Bangkok basic and men and women TAXES Tel 1672. have to live separately. In www.tourismthailand.org Bangkok it is expected that All hotels charge about Ko Samui guests in a monastery would seven percent VAT (Value Tel 0-7728-8818. either wish to study medita- Added Tax), and some luxury Krabi tion or ordain as a monk. hotels will also add a 10 Tel 0-7562-2163. percent service charge on RENTALS top of their basic rates. Some Pattaya of the top hotels include Tel 0-3842-8750. Rented accommodations are taxes in the room rates. Less Phuket widely available throughout expensive hotels simply add Tel 0-7621-1036. Thailand at reasonable rates. the taxes to the final bill. Serviced apartments are a Thus, it is important to check popular choice for longstay whether the price is inclusive FACILITIES FOR CHILDREN visitors. Properties usually of taxes while booking or occupy prime locations and before checking in. Very few mid-range hotels cover quite a range, offering have facilities for children or guests privacy as well as the BARGAINING nursing mothers. However, luxuries of an upscale hotel, luxury hotels and resorts may at significantly lower prices. It is a good idea to ask about offer babysitting services, and the possibility of a discount. It free stay for children as well NATIONAL PARKS is not considered impolite to as special paddle pools. ask, but it is in bad taste to Most of the national parks press the point. Many hotels DISABLED TRAVELERS allow camping on designated offer special off-season prices campsites, although visitors and Thai proprietors will Even luxury hotels have few should be prepared for the certainly inform their guests. facilities for disabled visitors. minimal facilities. Mosquito Wheelchair ramps are making nets and insect repellent are TIPPING an appearance now, and essential. Most parks have a nearly every luxury establish- limited number of bungalows Tipping is not ingrained in ment has an elevator. That, and these should be booked Thai culture, but in hotels, however, is the limit of facili- in advance at the Forestry bellmen should be given ties in most hotels and they Department in Bangkok. around 50 baht for delivering should be carefully chosen by luggage to the room. visitors with special needs. PRICES

Tourist accommodations can cost from 1,000 to 10,000 baht a night in Bangkok, Ko Samui, Pattaya, and Phuket. A comfortable room in a standard hotel goes between 700 and 1,500 baht, based on the season. Prices everywhere are at their peak in the cool season from November to February. In the other seasons, rates fall everywhere, except Pretty bungalows lining the beach at Ko Chang 290 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES The following price ranges are for a standard double room per night, Bangkok and coastal Thailand are home to some of the including taxes and service charges most spectacular resorts in the world. The hotels in this during high season. guide have been selected across a wide price range for  Under 600 baht  600–1,500 baht their facilities, value, ambience, and location. The hotels  1,500–3,000 baht are listed by region. For Bangkok map references, see  3,000–5,000 baht pp88–95 and the road map on the inside back cover.  Above 5,000 baht

BANGKOK

CHINATOWN New Empire Hotel e 0 å z ∫  572 Yaowarat Rd 10100 Tel 0-2234-6990 Fax 0-2234-6997 Rooms 100 City Map 6 F2 Just a short walk from the Hua Lampong railway station and the MRT underground, the New Empire Hotel offers standard accommodations in the heart of Bangkok’s Chinatown. The sparse, clean, and comfortable rooms are housed in a basic eight-story building. The friendly staff is an added bonus. www.newempirehotel.com

CHINATOWN The Riverview Guesthouse e 0 z  768 Soi Panurangsi, Songwat Rd, behind San Jao Tosuekong 10100 Tel 0-2234-5429 Rooms 45 City Map 6 F3 Tucked away in the heart of Chinatown, but just five minutes from Hua Lampong Station, this is a great place to stay to experience the vibrancy of the area. Basic rooms are offset by excellent river views from its rooftop restaurant. Hard to find down the maze of alleyways, but this hotel is worth the effort. www.riverviewbkk.com

CHINATOWN Woodlands Inn e 0 å z ∫  1158/5–7 Charoen Krung 32 Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2235-3894 Fax 0-2237-5493 Rooms 75 City Map 6 F4 Guests will find clean but basic accommodations at this renovated budget hotel located close to the river and within walking distance of a night market. The restaurant serves excellent Indian food as well as Thai and Western dishes. The staff is fluent in English, Hindi, Tamil, and Thai. www.woodlandsinn.org

CHINATOWN Grand China Princess Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  215 Yaowarat Rd, Samphantawong 10100 Tel 0-2224-9977 Fax 0-2224-7999 Rooms 160 City Map 6 E1 In the heart of Chinatown, surrounded by a maze of streets and shops, this hotel is housed in the Grand China Trade Tower, and has comfortable rooms and suites with full amenities. A revolving restaurant on the 25th floor offers panoramic views of the city and has a selection of international cuisine. www.grandchina.com

CHINATOWN Shanghai Mansion Bangkok e 0 z ∫  479–81 Yaowarat Rd, Samphantawong 10100 Tel 0-2221-2121 Fax 0-2221-2124 Rooms 75 City Map 6 F2 Once the home of a wealthy Chinese merchant, this charming hotel celebrates the colors and romance of Chinatown. The decor is outstanding and showcases traditional Chinese designs. Guests can enjoy the lavish accommodations, indulge in the Yin Yang Spa or enjoy a drink in the Tea Room. www.shanghaimansion.com

DOWNTOWN A-One Inn e 0 z ∫  25/13–15 Soi Kasamsunt 1, Rama I Rd 10330 Tel 0-2215-3029 Fax 0-2216-4771 Rooms 25 City Map 8 B1 Tucked away down a quiet side street, the A-One Inn is one of the few cheap guesthouses in the city center. It may be a little plain, but it is hard to beat its price and convenience. Rooms have TV, Internet, hot showers, and air- conditioning. Weekly and monthly rates are available. www.aoneinn.com

DOWNTOWN Soi 1 Guesthouse 0 z  220/7 Soi 1, Sukhumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2655-0604 Rooms 24 City Map 8 F1 This popular hostel on a quiet, well-lit side street has air-conditioned dormitories, a 24-hour access lounge and games room, Wi-Fi, DVDs, and cable TV. However, the rooms are somewhat cramped, the ensuite bathrooms have showers only, and toilets are shared. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable. www.soi1guesthouse.com

DOWNTOWN Lub-d 0 z  4 Decho Rd, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2634-7999 Fax 0-2634 7510 Rooms 36 City Map 7 B4 This youth hostel proves that cheap is not equivalent to grubby. A variety of accommodations are available ranging from double rooms to a ladies-only dormitory. Free Internet, helpful multilingual staff, and the bright and clean surroundings ensure a loyal clientele. www.lubd.com

DOWNTOWN Moeleng Boutique Resort e 0 z  21/1 Soi Ratchathapan, Ratchapararop Rd 10400 Tel 0-2642-4646 Fax 0-2245-4386 Rooms 38 City Map 4 E4 This contemporary hotel has Thai-style interiors and rooms looking out on a well-tended garden. It is located in the central but non-touristic Pratunam district famous for its markets. It is also right next to a large public park, ideal for a morning walk or a jog. Monthly rates are also available. www.moeleng-bangkok-resort.com

Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 291

DOWNTOWN Arnoma Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z  99 Ratchadamari Rd, Pathumwan 10330 Tel 0-2655-5555 Rooms 369 City Map 8 D1 Located in the center of downtown Bangkok, this is a good mid-range choice for those interested in shopping. The CentralWorld, , and Paragon malls are adjacent and the local is also nearby. Although not strong on ambience, the food is good with Chinese, Thai, and Continental options. www.arnoma.com

DOWNTOWN Bossotel e 0 S z  55/8–14 Soi Charoen Krung 42/1, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2630-6120 Fax 0-2630-6129 Rooms 81 City Map 6 F5 This hotel boasts an excellent location with only the Shangri-la Hotel standing between it and the river. There is easy access to the Skytrain and river taxis. Facilities include both Continental and Thai restaurants as well as a small swimming pool. www.bossotelinn.com

DOWNTOWN City Lodge e 0 z  137/1–3 Sukhumvit Soi 9 10110 Tel 0-2253-7710 Fax 0-2253-7340 Rooms 28 The hotel chain Amari is now catering to budget travelers with this hotel and a similar property on Sukhumvit Soi 19. Clean and well-managed, the hotel has a good restaurant serving Italian and Thai food. Guests can use the swimming pool and fitness center at the more upscale Amari Boulevard Hotel nearby. www.amari.com

DOWNTOWN Narai Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z  222 Silom Rd, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2237-0100 Fax 0-2236-7161 Rooms 470 City Map 7 B4 Once a top level venue, this hotel is now overshadowed in ambience and price by its more modern neighbors. Yet this downtown venue offers good value for money and the location is perfect with easy access to the Skytrain and river taxis. It is clean, quiet, and unpretentious with a great breakfast buffet. www.naraihotel.co.th

DOWNTOWN Rose Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z  118 Surawong Rd, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2266-8268-72 Fax 0-2266-8096 Rooms 72 City Map 7 C3 This modern hotel in downtown Bangkok is situated off the main , and is relatively quiet. The pool has been recently renovated. Proximity to the Patpong nightlife might make the conservative traveler a little uncomfortable, however, the low tariff is a major incentive. www.rosehotelbkk.com

DOWNTOWN Siam Heritage e 0 S ÷ z ∫  115/1 Surawong Rd, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2353-6101 Rooms 73 City Map 7 C3 Right around the corner from the raucous streets of Patpong, the serene and traditional Siam Heritage provides an interesting contrast. The rooms are decorated in Thai style with hardwood floors and silk furnishings. Luxurious suites, a pool, Jacuzzi, spa, and a terrace restaurant are other facilities on offer. www.thesiamheritage.com

DOWNTOWN Silom Convent Garden e 0 z  35/1 Soi Piphat 2, Sathorn, Soi Convent 10500 Tel 0-2667-0130 Fax 0-2667-0144 Rooms 44 City Map 7 C4 This centrally located facility is for those who do not like the impersonal nature of hotel rooms. There are serviced apartments with kitchen facilities along with regular rooms. A vibrant decor, two coffee shops, a roof garden, and a decidedly residential atmosphere make this place an attractive option. www.silomconventgarden.com

DOWNTOWN Silom Serene e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  7 Soi Piphat, Silom Rd Soi 3, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2636-6599 Fax 0-2636-6590 Rooms 86 City Map 7 C4 The strategically located boutique-style hotel has spacious rooms, a large and attractive pool, and a quiet and shaded garden perfect for escaping the din of downtown Bangkok. Popular with businessmen, it has a well- equipped business center and meeting rooms. www.silom-serene.com

DOWNTOWN Luxx Hotel e 0 z  6/11 Decho Rd, Bangrak 10050 Tel 0-2635-8800 Fax 0-2635-8088 Rooms 13 City Map 7 B4 The Luxx, one of Bangkok’s smallest hotels, is a converted Chinese shophouse. The original structure has been transformed into a stylish space using plenty of chrome and wood. Suites feature a wooden bathtub, LCD TV, DVD player, iPod dock, and a view of the courtyard. The whole place is Wi-Fi enabled. www.staywithluxx.com

DOWNTOWN Siri Sathorn e 0 S ÷ å z  27 Soi Sala Daeng 1 Silom Rd, Bangrak10500 Tel 0-2266-2345 Fax 0-2267-5555 Rooms 111 City Map 8 D4 The Siri Sathorn calls itself a “serviced residence”. Aside from the central location near two Skytrain stops, attentive service, and elegant atmosphere, it offers suites that have up to two bedrooms with kitchens and laundry facilities, making it great for families. It also has a spa and a fitness center. www.sirisathorn.com

DOWNTOWN Swiss Lodge e 0 S ÷ z  3 Convent Rd, Silom, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2233-5345 Fax 0-2236-9425 Rooms 46 City Map 7 C4 In a quiet enclave of Bangkok’s entertainment district, this hotel offers comfortable rooms fitted with the latest technology. The hotel’s bijou restaurant, Three-On-Convent, serves Californian cuisine and excellent wines. Guests can relax at the pool terrace, library, or business lounge. www.swisslodge.com

DOWNTOWN Banyan Tree e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  21/100 South Sathorn Rd, Pathumwan 10120 Tel 02-679-1200 Fax 02-679-1199 Rooms 216 City Map 8 D4 Located near the Silom business district, the Banyan Tree bills itself as an urban spa. Most units are suites tastefully appointed with elegant Asian motifs. Chic bars and restaurants abound, each with its own specialty. The stylish rooftop bar and restaurant on the 61st floor is a star attraction. www.banyantree.com 292 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

DOWNTOWN Dusit Thani e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  946 Rama IV Rd 10500 Tel 0-2200-9000 Fax 0-2236-6400 Rooms 517 City Map 8 D4 A flagship hotel of Thailand’s most respected hotel brand, the Dusit Thani offers elegant rooms with Thai decor ranging from superior to the luxurious Thai Heritage Suites. Facilities include a spa, a golf range, and eight restaurants. It is also home to the Cordon Bleu, Dusit Academy of World Cuisine. www.dusit.com

DOWNTOWN The Four Seasons e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  155 Ratchadamari Rd 10330 Tel 0-2250-1000 Fax 0-2253-9195 Rooms 353 City Map 8 D2 The Four Seasons exudes restrained elegance. The rooms are adorned with hand-painted murals and guests can enjoy the spa and boutique plaza. The hotel has long been a favorite with well-off residents for its superb dining that includes Thai, Italian, and Japanese food, as well as an American steakhouse. www.fourseasons.com

DOWNTOWN Le Meridien Plaza Athénée e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  10 Wireless Rd 10330 Tel 0-2650-8800 Fax 0-2650-8500 Rooms 378 City Map 8 E2 Located in Bangkok’s central business and diplomatic district, the Meridien Plaza Athénée is a short walk from the Skytrain station. The hotel is an iconic building with luxurious accommodations, and award-winning restaurants. The finest traditional Thai hospitality awaits discerning guests. www.starwoodhotels.com

DOWNTOWN e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  1055 Silom Rd, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2624-9999 Fax 0-2624-9998 Rooms 350 City Map 7 A5 This “all-suite” hotel is probably best known for its vertiginous outdoor restaurant and bar on the 52nd floor. Guests can also revel in the super chic modern decor, great views, and superior service; or they can just retire to their own kitchenette for a simple meal or snack. www.lebua.com

DOWNTOWN The Mandarin Oriental e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  48 Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Soi 41 10500 Tel 0-2659-9000 Fax 0-2236-1937 Rooms 393 City Map 6 F4 Built in 1867, and a favorite of authors Somerset Maugham and Joseph Conrad, the Mandarin Oriental combines a rich past with luxury. The restored Authors’ Wing houses suites and the splendid location, service, and cuisine ensure that guests return. A cooking school and spa round up the package. www.mandarinoriental.com

DOWNTOWN Shangri-la Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, Charoen Krung Rd 10500 Tel 0-2236-7777 Fax 0-2236-8579 Rooms 799 City Map 6 F5 The hotel has two wings – the Shangri-la Wing and the Krungthep Wing. The latter has rooms with a view of the river and a garden balcony overlooking a private pool. Butler service is included. All rooms are tastefully decorated in Thai style with teak and silk furnishings. There is also an excellent in-house spa. www.shangri-la.com

DOWNTOWN Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  250 Sukhumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2649-8888 Fax 0-2649-8000 Rooms 440 Regarded as one of the finest business hotels in Asia, the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit is located in the heart of Bangkok’s business district. It includes award-winning restaurants, a jazz lounge, and a chic nightclub. As expected, it has all the usual facilities. www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

DOWNTOWN Swissôtel Nai Lert Park e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  2 Witthayu Rd, Pathumwan 10330 Tel 0-2253-0123 Fax 0-2253-6509 Rooms 338 City Map 8 E1 Bangkok’s Swissôtel Nai Lert Park is a five-story, low-rise hotel set in over eight-and-a-half acres of tropical plants, a garden, and a Thai-style canal. Guests are spoilt for choice at the eight restaurants including an alfresco dining terrace, a bar, and café. All rooms have private balconies. www.swissotel.com

DOWNTOWN The Sukhothai e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  13/3 South Sathorn Rd 10120 Tel 0-2344-8888 Fax 0-2344-8822 Rooms 210 City Map 8 D4 Named after a city in northern Thailand that was the home to Thailand’s first recorded dynasty, the Sukhothai tries to recapture that glorious past in the middle of modern Bangkok with a profusion of teak, silk, and Buddhist stupas in its magnificent gardens. Good food and a spa further recommend the place. www.sukhothai.com

DUSIT Bangkok International Youth Hostel e 0 z  25/2 Phitsanulok Rd 10200 Tel 0-2282-0950 Fax 0-2628-7416 Rooms 67 City Map 2 F3 This is a youth hostel of the old school, mainly for those who are interested in staying in a safe and clean dormitory, although double rooms are also available. A library, café, Internet, and laundry service are available, as is a travel agency. It boasts a good location near the river and the Grand Palace. www.tyha.com

DUSIT Best Western Swana Bangkok Hotel e 0 S z  332 Wisut Kasat Rd, Phra Nakhon 10200 Tel 0-2282-8899 Fax 0-2281-7816 Rooms 55 City Map 2 E3 This place offers the security and familiarity of the well-known Best Western budget chain. The Bangkok property is new and well built in a relatively quiet area with interesting sites but without the tourist clutter. The restaurant serves both Thai and Western food. Good for families on a budget trip. www.swanabangkok.com

DUSIT Hotel De’ Moc e 0 S z  78 Prajatipatai Rd, Phra Nakhon 10200 Tel 0-2282-2831 Fax 0-2280-1299 Rooms 92 City Map 2 E3 The Hotel De’ Moc offers surprisingly spacious rooms, a pleasant atmosphere, Wi-Fi, and bicycles for hire. Guests at this hotel can use the well-equipped fitness center at the nearby Buddy Lodge on Khao San Road. The De’ Moc hotel also boasts a pretty pool surrounded by trees. www.hoteldemoc.com

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 293

DUSIT New World Lodge Hotel e 0 z  2 Samsen Rd, Banglampoo, Phra Nakhon 10200 Tel 0-2281-5596 Fax 0-2282-5614 Rooms 172 City Map 2 D3 Geared toward both business and leisure travelers, this recently renovated hotel provides good facilities and tidy rooms in a quiet but convenient location. There is a restaurant and outdoor café serving special halaal food. Visitors can also choose from the many restaurants and bars in the vicinity. www.newworldlodge.com

OLD CITY Diamond House e 0  4 Samsen Rd, Banglampoo 10200 Tel 0-2629-4008 Fax 0-2629-4009 Rooms 22 City Map 2 D3 Around the corner from Khao San Road, this hotel attracts families. Well located for sightseeing, it is neat and stylish, with good food and service. There is a rooftop pool with great views. It is located on a busy street so it is advisable to get a room at the back. www.thaidiamondhouse.com

OLD CITY Lamphu Tree House 0 S z  Prajatipatai Rd, 155 Wanchat Bridge 10200 Tel 0-2282-0991-2 Fax 0-2282-0993 Rooms 40 City Map 2 D4 This hotel is located on a canal in the old city, and entered via a footbridge. All the rooms have balconies and are paneled in old teakwood. The atmosphere is quiet and friendly and the pool is clean. The restaurant serves a focused choice of Thai and international dishes. www.lamphutreehotel.com

OLD CITY New Siam Riverside e 0 S z  21 Phra Athit Rd, Banglampoo 10200 Tel 0-2629-3535 Fax 0-2629-3443 Rooms 100 City Map 1 C3 Located right on the riverfront, close to the Khao San backpacker ghetto and entertainment area, but much less crowded, this hotel is newly built with a small pool. It is just a short walk away from the Grand Palace, the National Museum, and Bangkok’s most famous wats. www.newsiam.net

OLD CITY Royal Hotel e 0 S z  2 Ratchadamnoen Ave, Banglampoo 10200 Tel 0-2222-9111 Rooms 300 City Map 2 D4 Adjacent to Sanam Luang and very close to the Grand Palace, this hotel is located in the heart of old Bangkok. Designed in the 1950’s style, the hotel has helpful staff and the spacious restaurant serves Chinese, Thai, and Continental food. The best part about the hotel is its proximity to neighborhoods rich in color and history.

OLD CITY Buddy Lodge e 0 S ÷ z  265 Khao San Rd, Banglampoo 10200 Tel 0-2629-4477 Fax 0-2629-4744 Rooms 76 City Map 2 D4 Right in the middle of Bangkok’s famous Khao San Road and originally a backpackers’ haven, this hotel is rapidly becoming upscale but still retains its youthful and vibrant feel. Buddy Lodge offers clean and secure rooms, some with balconies, and a swimming pool on the roof that is great for catching the breeze. www.buddylodge.com

OLD CITY Phranakorn Nornlen ¤ 0 z  46 Thewet Soi 1, Phra Nakhon, Bang Khunprom Tel 0-2628-8188 Fax 0-2628-8600 Rooms 12 City Map 3 A4 This hotel advocates the slow life. The food is vegetarian and purely organic and the place is small, but pays attention to details. The hotel is designed with the idea of making guests feel at home . The staff is from the neighborhood. The rooms are clean, comfortable, and without many frills. www.phranakorn-nornlen.com

OLD CITY Arun Residence 0  36–38 Soi Pratu Nok Yung, Tha Maharat 10200 Tel 0-2221-9158 Fax 0-2221-9159 Rooms 6 City Map 5 B1 This boutique hotel built in Sino-Portuguese style is a converted residence with split-level rooms and a suite with a private balcony. Located in the heart of historic Bangkok with easy access to other parts of town, this tiny, yet elegant lodging with a beautiful garden is personalized and provides quality service. www.arunresidence.com

OLD CITY Chakrabongse Villas 0 S z  396 Maharat Road, Phra Nakhon, Tha Tien 10200 Tel 0-2224-6686 Fax 0-2225-3861 Rooms 4 City Map 5 B1 Built in 1908 as the residence of Prince Chulachakrabongse, these incredibly luxurious villas lie on the Chao Phraya River between Chinatown and the Royal Palace. Apart from great views of the river and the nearby temples, the riverside restaurant serves delicious Thai food customized to individual taste. www.thaivillas.com

THONBURI Ibrik Resort on the River 0 z  256 Soi Wat Rakang, Arunamarin Rd 10700 Tel 0-2848-9220 Fax 0-2866-2978 Rooms 3 City Map 1 B5 No one will dispute Ibrik’s claim of being the smallest resort in the world with three lovely well-equipped suites that provide views on the river in a quiet Thonburi residential neighborhood. This is a perfect romantic getaway for honeymooners. It is essential to book in advance. www.ibrikresort.com

THONBURI Marriott Resort & Spa e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  257 Charoen Nakhon Rd, Thonburi 10600 Tel 0-2476-0022 Fax 0-2476-1120 Rooms 413 A true resort in more than name, with great tropical gardens perfect for relaxing after a day spent sightseeing. The in-house spa is world class, and the food is also excellent, especially the Sunday brunch at the Trader Vic’s bar and the Japanese spread at the Benihana restaurant. www.marriott.com

THONBURI The Peninsula e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  333 Charoen Nakhon Rd, Klong San 10600 Tel 0-2861-2888 Fax 0-2861-1112 Rooms 370 City Map 6 F5 Located across the river from Bangkok on the Thonburi side, this oasis of luxury offers a river view from every room and suite, and the hotel’s private boats take guests into the city at their leisure. Restaurants offer Thai, Cantonese, and Mediterranean food, considered among the best in town. www.peninsula.com 294 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

FARTHER AFIELD Convenient Resort e 0 z  9–11 Soi 38 Lat Krabang 10520 Tel 0-2327-4118 Fax 0-2327-4004 Rooms 67 Road Map C1 This aptly named non-smoking hotel, just five minutes from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, provides comfortable accommodations and is great for quick stopovers. Thai massage is offered for weary travelers. The restaurant is a perfect place to unwind with good views of the countryside. www.convenientresort.com

FARTHER AFIELD Amari Don Muang Airport Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  333 Chertwudthakas Rd 10210 Tel 0-2566-1020 Fax 0-2566-1941 Rooms 423 Road Map C1 Don Muang Airport remains open for the majority of domestic flights, so this deluxe hotel is still a good choice if there is time to kill between transfers to Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Amari Don Muang offers a high standard of accommodations at an affordable price, along with good restaurants and bars. www.amari.com

FARTHER AFIELD Novotel Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  Moo 1, Nongprue Bang Phli, Samut Prakarn 10540 Tel 0-2131-1111 Fax 0-2131-1188 Rooms 612 Road Map C1 A 10-minutes walk away from the main terminal, the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel is the perfect place to recharge your batteries. Guests can relax in the luxurious spa, restaurants, and bars, or sleep in comfort in the plush rooms. www.novotel.com

EASTERN SEABOARD

CHANTHABURI River Guest House 0 z  3/5–8 Sri Chan Rd 22000 Tel 0-3932-8211 Rooms 29 Road Map E2 This friendly guesthouse is conveniently located next to the Chanthaburi River and the gem district. There is a choice of fan-cooled or air-conditioned rooms and the former are situated at the back of the building which is more quiet. There is Internet and the owner is a good source of local information.

CHANTHABURI Kasemsarn Hotel e 0 å z ∫  98/1 Benchamarachutit Rd 22000 Tel 0-3931-1100 Fax 0-393-4456 Rooms 60 Road Map E2 Recently renovated, the two-story Kasemsarn Hotel now presents itself as a chic but affordable boutique hotel. Located just north of the city center, it represents the best mid-range option in town. A decent restaurant serves Thai and Western food. Guests can also make use of the massage facilities. www.kasemsarnhotel.com

CHANTHABURI KP Grand Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  35/200–201 Trirat Rd 22000 Tel 0-3932-3201 Fax 0-3932-3214 Rooms 202 Road Map E2 This spacious and swanky hotel is located to the south of town. Rooms are carpeted and well-equipped, with satellite TV and mini-bars. Facilities include a big pool, fitness center, sauna, and massage service. The 18th floor has a restaurant serving creative European cuisine, and a karaoke bar. www.kpgrandhotel.com

KO CHANG Pom’s Bungalows ¤ 0  Hat Kai Bae 23120 Tel 08-9251-9233 Rooms 52 Road Map E2 What began 15 years ago as a bunch of simple bamboo huts, has improved greatly. However, Pom’s Bungalows still retains a backpackers’ ambience and rates. The restaurant is the best on Hat Kai Bae and barbeques and bonfires are regular events. The staff is alert and informal and can organize snorkeling trips to nearby offshore islands.

KO CHANG Funky Hut Resort 0 S z  Ao Dan Khao 23170 Tel 0-3958-6177 Rooms 7 Road Map E2 Located on the east coast of Ao Dan Khao, this family-run place is great for those who want a quieter holiday than that offered on the booming west coast. Other plus points include a freshwater pool and a thatched rooftop restaurant serving food that is famous throughout the island. www.funkyhut-thailand.com

KO CHANG Ko Chang Lagoon Resort 0 z  Hat Sai Khao 23170 Tel 0-3955-1201 Fax 0-3955-1203 Rooms 165 Road Map E2 Located in the middle of Hat Sai Khao, this two-story mid-range resort has attractive landscaped gardens and a range of well-equipped rooms. Some are in the main building, while others are in detached bungalows on the seafront. There are barbeques on the beach every evening. www.kochanglagoonresort.com

KO CHANG Orchid Resort 0 S z  Ao Bai Lan 23170 Tel 0-3955-8137 Rooms 45 Road Map E2 This resort is reminiscent of Ko Chang from bygone days. Bungalows made of natural materials are set in a garden with a pool. As the name implies, the grounds have been planted with an incredible variety of orchids. There is one restaurant serving quality Thai and continental fare. www.kohchangorchid.com

KO CHANG Siam Beach Resort 0 S z  Hat Tha Nam 23170 Tel 0-8702-65515 Fax 0-2417-1948 Rooms 72 Road Map E2 Located at the northern end of Hat Tha Nam, the southernmost beach on the west coast, this place has comfortable air-conditioned bungalows scattered over a hillside, plus some newer air-conditioned rooms with balconies on the beach. The resort is surrounded by nice trees providing shade. www.siambeachresort.in.th

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 295

KO CHANG White Sand Beach Resort 0 z  Hat Sai Khao 23170 Tel 08-1863-7737 Rooms 99 Road Map E2 Hat Sai Khao is the island’s longest and most beautiful sandy stretch, but it gets rather crowded near the southern end. This resort, located further north on the beach, offers a quiet getaway. It has a range of rooms, some with air-conditioning and others with fan – most have sea views. www.whitesandbeachresort.info

KO CHANG Aana Resort and Spa 0 S ÷ z ∫  Hat Khlong Phrao 23170 Tel 0-3955-1539 Fax 0-3955-1540 Rooms 71 Road Map E2 Aana Resort and Spa is not directly located on the beach, rather guests have to kayak along the Khlong Phrao River to the coast. Less beach-oriented than other places, the Aana’s emphasis is on spa treatments, a riverside pool, and a natural ambience. Many rooms have their own Jacuzzis. www.aanaresort.com

KO CHANG Dusit Princess Resort 0 S ÷ å z  Ao Bai Lan 23170 Tel 0-3955-8055 Rooms 96 Road Map E2 Managed by Thailand’s premier hotel company, and located at sedate Ao Bai Lan, the Dusit Princess Resort has a large pool and private beach. The resort has become a favorite spot for business seminars since it also has a meeting room with all kinds of modern equipment. www.dusitprincess.com

KO CHANG Sea View Resort and Spa 0 S ÷ å z  Hat Kai Bae 23170 Tel 0-3955-2888 Rooms 126 Road Map E2 Set in a shaded garden, all the rooms at this resort, from standard cottages to suite spas, are beautifully designed and luxuriously furnished. Facilities include a spa, pool, fitness center, terrace restaurant, and a number of bars by the pool and on the beach. Some of the rooms have their own Jacuzzi. www.seaviewkochang.com

KO CHANG Aiyapura Resort e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  Ban Khlong Son 23170 Tel 0-3955-5111 Fax 0-3955-5118 Rooms 88 Road Map E2 With its huge leaf-shaped pool, luxurious spa, and a variety of free-standing deluxe bungalows, the Aiyapura Resort is an excellent choice for an extravagant holiday. Located on a hill overlooking Hat Khong Son, this boutique-style resort is run by a friendly staff. There are excellent restaurants and a bar inside the pool. www.aiyapura.com

KO CHANG Amari Emerald Cove e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  88/8 Moo 4, Hat Khlong Phrao 23170 Tel 0-3955-2000 Fax 0-3955-2001 Rooms 165 Road Map E2 Very well-managed by the Thai Amari hotel chain, this place is architecturally impressive and located right on the beach at Ao Khlong Phrao. There is a 165-ft (50-m) lap pool, an Italian restaurant, a spa, oversized guest rooms with bathtubs to match, and a game room for the kids. www.amari.com

KO CHANG Nirvana 0 S z  Ao Bang Bao 23170 Tel 0-3955-8061 Rooms 15 Road Map E2 The Nirvana is laid out over a strikingly scenic, semi-forested cape with a private sandy beach and views of the bay on one side and the Gulf of Thailand on the other. There is a freshwater plunge pool and a seawater pool with its own bar. Accommodations are in beautiful Balinese-style villas. www.nirvanakohchang.com

KO KUT Ngamkho Resort ¤ 0  Ao Ngam Kho 23170 Tel 08-4653-4644 Rooms 9 Road Map E2 These classic thatched bungalows are without pretension and have basic amentites. Most of the guests are long stayers and Uncle Jo, the host, has a boat that can be rented (with him at the helm) for fishing or snorkeling. Seafood figures predominantly on the menu. Tents can be pitched at a campsite on the beach.

KO KUT Ko Kood Beach Bungalows 0 S z  Ko Kut 23170 Tel 0-2630-9371 Rooms 18 Road Map E2 Ko Kut (or Kood) is one of the smaller islands to the south of Ko Chang. Seclusion still prevails and the beach bungalows are renowned for their good service, food, and activities such as kayaking to offshore islets, and treks exploring the inland areas of the island. There is also a pool. www.kokoodbeachbungalows.com

KO MAK Island Hut Resort ¤ 0  Ao Kratung 23120 Tel 0-87139-5537 Rooms 20 Road Map E2 This simple resort run by a local family is a great place for relaxing. The decor is in bamboo and guests can just spend the whole day lazing in hammocks. The whole place is set in natural surroundings and the lack of other amenities are meant to contribute to the overall rustic experience.

KO MAK Good Time Resort 0 z  Ko Mak 23170 Tel 0-83118-0011 Rooms 17 Road Map E2 All the villas have either two or three bedrooms making it ideal for families or groups. There is a pool and a basic spa. The management retains the homely atmosphere of the place by offering authentic Thai cuisine. There is also a DVD library for visitors wishing to entertain themselves. www.goodtime-resort.com

KO SAMET Naga ¤ 0  Ao Hin Khok 21160 Tel 0-3864-4935 Rooms 35 Road Map D2 Perched on a hillside, the Naga is something of a legend among budget travelers. It offers simple and clean bungalows at reasonable rates. Guests can enjoy the library, gym, a Thai boxing ring, and a good restaurant that serves home-made bread and cakes. 296 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

KO SAMET Sai Kaew Villa 0 z  Hat Sai Kaew 21160 Tel 0-3864-4144 Rooms 100 Road Map D2 This place occupies a large compound on Ko Samet’s most popular beach and offers good deals for budget travelers. From basic fan-cooled rooms to larger air-conditioned bungalows, this resort has several accommodation options. Discounts are available for guests staying several nights. www.saikaew.com

KO SAMET Jep’s Bungalow 0 z  Ao Hin Khok 21160 Tel 0-3864-4112 Rooms 40 Road Map D2 One of Ko Samet’s best value for money options, Jep’s Bungalow offers a choice of fan-cooled or air-conditioned rooms in concrete or wooden bungalows spread across a hill. The rooms also have cable TV. The nearby beach is one of the best on the island for swimming and is popular among budget travelers. www.jepbungalow.com

KO SAMET Tub Tim Resort 0 z  Ao Tubtim 21160 Tel 0-3864-4025 Fax 0-3864-4028 Rooms 75 Road Map D2 This is one of Ko Samet’s longest running establishments, having opened in the early 1980s. The Tub Tim Resort is set at the southern end of a pretty bay on the east coast and offers comfortable facilities in its concrete and wooden rooms. It also has one of the island’s best restaurants. www.tubtimresort.com

KO SAMET Samed Villa 0 z  Ao Phai 21160 Tel 0-3864-4094 Fax 0-3864-4093 Rooms 45 Road Map D2 Located on the headland at the southern end of Ao Phai, these Swiss-Thai bungalows are run by a family. They offer superb views of the ocean from the waterfront units and a tranquil forest garden ambience throughout. Competent and friendly staff can arrange snorkeling, kayaking, and beach barbeques. www.samedvilla.com

KO SAMET Sang Thian Beach Resort 0 z  Ao Thian 21160 Tel 0-3864-4255 Rooms 32 Road Map D2 The days when Ao Thian, or Candlelight Beach, had no electricity are long gone, and now this resort provides comfortable lodgings in small wooden bungalows on a hill and some large ones for big groups. Although the beach has developed, it is still quieter than those further north on the east coast. www.sangthain.com

KO SAMET Vongdeuan Resort 0 z  Ao Wong Deuan 21160 Tel 0-3864-4171 Rooms 49 Road Map D2 Ao Wong Deuan was one of the first of Ko Samet’s beaches to be developed, and it is certainly one of the prettiest, with a lovely crescent-shaped bay. This resort has a variety of attractive cottages and Thai houses that are comfortably equipped. There is also a good restaurant serving local specialties. www.vongdeuan.com

KO SAMET Le Vimarn 0 S ÷ z ∫  Ao Phrao 21160 Tel 0-3864-4104 Fax 0-3864-4109 Rooms 31 Road Map D2 A tastefully opulent resort on the beach at Ao Phrao on Ko Samet’s quiet west coast, these villas are furnished in bamboo, teak, and Thai woven fabrics and many have their own private Jacuzzis on the balcony. Also included are a spa, fitness center, a pool, and fine alfresco Italian dining at the water’s edge. www.samedresorts.com

KO SAMET Moo Ban Talay 0 S ÷ å z ∫  Ao Noi Na 21160 Tel 08-1838-8682 Fax 0-3864-4251 Rooms 21 Road Map D2 Spacious bungalows in a gorgeous setting make Moo Ban Talay one of the best of Ko Samet’s many stylish resorts. Located on a private beach at the northern end of the island, the place radiates exclusivity. All rooms have platform beds and garden bathrooms, and some also have huge decks. www.moobantalay.com

KO SAMET Paradee 0 S ÷ z  Ao Kiu Na Nok 21160 Tel 0-2438-9771 Rooms 40 Road Map D2 This expensive and luxurious resort may be the shape of things to come on Ko Samet even although the island is part of a marine national park. Paradee has spectacular villas with private Jacuzzis, spa, a butler, plus two private beaches. The resort also arranges diving or deep sea fishing trips for its guests. www.paradeeresort.com

KO SAMET Sai Kaew Beach Resort 0 S ÷ å z ∫  Hat Sai Kaew 21160 Tel 0-3864-4195 Fax 0-3864-4194 Rooms 87 Road Map D2 Located at the northern end of Hat Sai Kaew, this is one of the island’s fanciest resorts, with a choice of expensive, deluxe bungalows located on a quiet stretch, or slightly cheaper superior cottages on a busier part of the beach. The decor is very stylish, plus there is a pool and a restaurant. www.samedresorts.com

KO SI CHANG Sichang Palace e 0 S z  81 Atsabang Rd 20210 Tel 0-3821-6276 Fax 0-382106939 Rooms 56 Road Map D1 This is the smartest place to stay on Ko Si Chang which has some interesting historic sights but no great beaches. The price of the rooms varies according to the view, but all of them are equipped with air-conditioning and cable TV. The hotel also has a standard restaurant, coffee shop, and a pool. www.sichangpalace.com

PATTAYA Ice Inn e 0 z  528/2–3 Second Rd 20260 Tel 0-3872-0671 Rooms 32 Road Map D1 With its central location and well-maintained rooms, this place is one of Pattaya’s best budget options. Rooms come with air-conditioning or fans, and some also have a TV and fridge. There is a handy Internet café on the ground floor, and the beach is only a few steps away. www.pattayacity.com/iceinn

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 297

PATTAYA Diana Inn e 0 z  216/6–20 between Soi 11–12 Second Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-9675 Fax 0-3842-9870 Rooms 111 Road Map D1 This place has plain and comfortable rooms, and a large pool with its own bar. Room rates include an all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast. The evening buffet serves Thai and European food as well as beer at good rates. The central location makes this hotel popular with long-staying visitors. www.dianapattaya.co.th

PATTAYA Garden Lodge 0 S z ∫  170 Moo 5, Naklua Rd, between Soi 18 and Soi 20 20260 Tel 0-3842-9109 Rooms 78 Road Map D1 Located to the north of town, this mid-range option is for those looking for a quiet spot in the middle of the bustling city. The Garden Lodge, true to its name, features a gorgeous outdoor area, a delightful pool, a welcoming restaurant, and well-furnished rooms.

PATTAYA Jomtien Boathouse e 0 z  389/5–6 Rd 20260 Tel 0-3875-6143 Fax 0-3875-6144 Rooms 24 Road Map D1 This low-rise establishment has elegantly furnished rooms that contain all amenities. There is no pool, but the beach is good for swimming. The hotel is famous for its good food at the theme-based open-air restaurant and Elvis impersonator shows on Friday nights. www.jomtien-boathouse.com

PATTAYA Lek Hotel e 0 S z ∫  284/5 Soi 13, Second Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-5552 Fax 0-3842-6629 Rooms 158 Road Map D1 Affordable with a few classy touches, the Lek Hotel is comfortable, spacious, and clean. The rooms themselves are rather small and basic, but there is a swimming pool, a snooker room, and a roof terrace to make up for it. The hotel is only a few steps from Hat Pattaya and its shops.

PATTAYA Woodlands Resort e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  164/1 Moo 5, Pattaya-Naklua Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-1707 Fax 0-3842-5663 Rooms 133 Road Map D1 This attractive Colonial resort is set in a quiet area to the north of Pattaya and is ideal for families. The bright and spacious rooms are comfortably furnished and the stylish restaurant serves good Thai and international cuisine. Cookery classes are available here. There is also a spa and a pretty garden. www.woodland-resort.com

PATTAYA Birds and Bees Resort 0 S ÷ z  366/11 Moo 12, Phra Tam Nak 4 20150 Tel 0-3825-0034 Fax 0-3825-0557 Rooms 60 Road Map D1 A great place with a good cause, this resort is owned by a Thai NGO which specializes in community health, and has even received an award from the Bill Gates Foundation. Good work aside, it is a lovely family-oriented place with lovely gardens, a secluded beach, and a romantic seaside restaurant. www.cabbagesandcondoms.co.th

PATTAYA Hard Rock Hotel e 0 S ÷ z ∫  429 Moo 9, Beach Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-8755-9 Fax 0-3842-1673 Rooms 320 Road Map D1 There is something about Pattaya and the Hard Rock Hotel that go together perfectly. It has the biggest lagoon- style pool in Thailand, a manmade beach, theme parties, and the usual Hard Rock brand of fun. In addition to a relaxing spa, there is a great Lil’ Rock program which keeps kids amused. www.hardrockhotels.net

PATTAYA Siam Bayview e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  310–12 Moo 10, Beach Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-3871 Fax 0-3842-3879 Rooms 260 Road Map D1 One of Pattaya’s most conveniently located hotels, the Siam Bayview sits right in the center of Ao Pattaya, and the rooms near the top of the nine-story main building enjoy excellent sea views. Facilities include tennis courts, swimming pools, restaurants, a business center, and a massage pavilion. www.siamhotels.com

PATTAYA Sugar Hut 0 S z  391/18 Moo 10, Thabpraya Rd 20260 Tel 0-3825-1686 Fax 0-3825-1689 Rooms 28 Road Map D1 This gem of a hotel scores high for ambience and privacy. Although it is not close to the beach, the traditional Thai villas with curving roofs are set in a huge, rambling garden. Rooms are tastefully furnished, with two beds and mosquito nets, and the restaurant serves top-notch cuisine. www.sugar-hut.com

PATTAYA Pattaya Marriott e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  218 Moo 10, Beach Rd 20260 Tel 0-3841-2120 Fax 0-3842-9926 Rooms 295 Road Map D1 Located in the center of Ao Pattaya, this beautiful resort has elegantly furnished rooms, most of them with beach views, and a whole range of activities for guests. These include golf, horseback riding, scuba diving, and flying. There is also a huge pool, and a choice of several restaurants and bars. www.marriotthotels.com

PATTAYA Royal Cliff Beach Resort e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  353 Moo 12, Pratumnak Rd 20260 Tel 0-3825-0421 Fax 0-3825-0511 Rooms 1017 Road Map D1 Something of a legend among Pattaya hotels, this award-winning, super luxurious facility, set in 64 acres of sprawling grounds satisfies every wish. With several restaurants and bars, a spa, five swimming pools, tennis courts, a jogging trail, and a putting green, guests never need to leave the premises. www.royalcliff.com

PATTAYA Sheraton Pattaya Resort e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  437 Pratumnak Rd 20260 Tel 0-3825-9888 Rooms 156 Road Map D1 Nestled in a picturesque headland south of Pattaya, this luxurious resort has a private beach and three swimming pools set in lush gardens, with sweeping views from the hillside rooms. Facilities are as one would expect from this respected chain, and the staff knows how to pamper guests. www.starwoodhotels.com 298 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

RAYONG Hin Suay Nam Sai e 0 S ÷ å z  250 Moo 2, Charkpong, Klaeng 21190 Tel 0-3863-8035 Fax 0-3863-8034 Rooms 174 Road Map D1 This smart resort has excellent facilities, and its own private beach. All of the air-conditioned rooms with cable TV have sea views, and the health club offers several sports including tennis, squash, and badminton. There is also a multicuisine restaurant and karaoke bar. www.travelthailand.com

RAYONG Wang Gaew 0 z  214 Pae-Klaeng Rd, Charkpong 21190 Tel 0-3863-8067 Fax 0-3863-8068 Rooms 30 Road Map D1 Probably only worthwhile for long stays, this eclectic collection of beach houses with their own kitchens on a private bay is favored by Thai families. This resort offers a more local experience than other places and is a good place to discover authentic Thai cuisine. www.wangkaew.co.th

RAYONG Purimas Beach Hotel 0 S ÷ z  4/5 Moo 3, Pae Klang Kam Rd Tel 0-3863-0382 Rooms 79 Road Map D1 A stylish resort with its own private beach, superb facilities, and attentive service. All the spacious and airy suites have private balconies as well as mini-bars, TVs, and comfortable furnishings. Guests can enjoy themselves at the beach, get pampered at the spa, and indulge themselves at the two excellent restaurants. www.purimas.com

TRAT Baan Jai Dee ¤ 0  67 Chaimongkhon Rd Tel 0-3952-0678 Rooms 8 Road Map E2 This is a good option during a stopover in Trat. A handful of simple but clean rooms are split between an old building and a newer extension; the bathrooms are shared. The Baan Jai Dee has comfortable areas where the owners’ artworks are displayed. The English and French breakfasts served during peak season are quite good.

UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST

CHA-AM Nana House 0 z  208/3 Ruamchit Rd 76120 Tel 0-3243-3632 Rooms 25 Road Map C1 This cluster of bright purple buildings at the northern end of town are simple and affordable. The owner speaks good English and keeps the place spotless. The top floor suite has a private balcony with great sea views. The beach is within splashing distance. www.nanahouse.net

CHA-AM Regent Cha-am Beach Resort 0 S ÷ å z ∫  849/21 Phet Kasem Rd 76120 Tel 0-3245-1240 Fax 0-3247-1492 Rooms 142 Road Map C1 An eco-friendly and less expensive alternative to the sister property also called Regent Cha-am Beach resort, these garden chalets are suited for those who can forsake a more luxurious option. There is a spa and guests can also use all the facilities in the adjacent resort. www.regent-chaam.com

CHA-AM Dusit Thani Hua Hin e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  1349 Phet Kasem Rd Tel 0-3252-0009 Fax 0-3252-0296 Rooms 300 Road Map C1 The upscale Dusit Thani Hua Hin is actually at Cha-am, not Hua Hin, but the latter’s attractions are only 10 minutes away. This stunning resort features plush rooms and balconies with sea views. There are two sublime swimming pools, a spa, and superb recreation facilities. www.dusit.com

CHA-AM Alila Cha-am e 0 S ÷ z  115 Moo 7, Tambol Bangkao 76120 Tel 0-3270-9555 Fax 0-3247-3190 Rooms 72 Road Map C1 Alila Cha-am, which means surprise in Sanskrit, has a contemporary and very sophisticated atmosphere. Designed by a leading Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag, with two floors of rooms overlooking an enormous reflecting pool, the unique design elements are also reflected in the resort’s rooftop restaurant. www.alilahotels.com

CHUMPHON Chumphon Cabana Resort & Diving Center 0 S ÷ z  69 Moo 8, Hat Thung Wua Laen 86000 Tel 0-7756-0246 Fax 0-7756-0247 Rooms 139 Road Map C3 Located on a beautiful stretch of pristine white sand with crystal clear waters, this modern resort has bright standard rooms, private bungalows, and a breezy restaurant right on the beach. A specialized diving and snorkeling center offers PADI-approved diving courses and trips to the best sites. www.cabana.co.th

CHUMPHON Novotel Chumphon Beach Resort and Golf e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  110 Moo 4 Hat Paradonpab 86000 Tel 0-7752-9529 Fax 0-7752-9500 Rooms 86 Road Map C3 A recent addition to the Chumphon accommodations scene, the Novotel has a modern ambience and clean rooms. The nine-hole golf course adjacent to the property balances the recreation opportunities for those not keen on watersports. Good service and fine dining. www.novotel.com

CHUMPHON Away Tusita Resort 0 S ÷ z  259/9 Moo 1 Paktako, Tung Tako 86220 Tel 0-7757-9151 Fax 0-7757-9050 Rooms 23 Road Map C3 Now under management of Away Resorts, Away Tusita Resort is located just outside Chumphon town and comprises rooms and free-standing villas, some of which have Jacuzzis. In addition to an elegant decor, the management offers a plethora of activities such as cycling, kayaking, and fishing. www.resortchumphon.com

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 299

HUA HIN Araya Residence e 0 z  15/1 Chomsin Rd 77100 Tel 0-3253-1130 Rooms 12 Road Map C2 Centrally located, this intimate boutique hotel has an Asian Zen minimalist style about it, with teak furniture and contemporary Thai decor. The attractive rooms are comfortable with cable TV, mini-bar, and complimentary wireless Internet. The rooftop rooms have sun beds and sea views. www.araya-residence.com

HUA HIN K Place e 0 z  116 Naresdamri Rd 77100 Tel 0-3251-1396 Fax 0-3251-4506 Rooms 12 Road Map C2 In a resort town not known for its budget hotels, K Place is a surprising bargain with big rooms that are simple, yet spotlessly clean, all equipped with fridge and TV. It is close to the action and only a short stroll away from the beach and night bazaar.

HUA HIN Leng Hotel 0 z  113/14 Phet Kasem Rd, Soi Hua Hin 67 Tel 0-3251-3546 Fax 0-3253-2095 Rooms 12 Road Map C2 This popular guesthouse is close to Hat Hua Hin and the lively night bazaar. Its simple homely rooms are clean and come with fridge, cable TV, and Internet. There is a good swimming pool, a decent café, and friendly staff to help with transfers and excursions. Visitors need to book ahead. www.lenghotel.com

HUA HIN Sirin Hotel e 0 S z  6/3 Damnoenkasem Rd 77100 Tel 0-3251-1150 Fax 0-3251-3571 Rooms 25 Road Map C2 Centrally located in the thick of Hua Hin’s shopping and entertainment area, this is a great mid-range option. While it might not win any design awards, the pleasant and well-maintained rooms have cable TV, a mini-bar, and a balcony. There is a small, shaded swimming pool and a casual restaurant. www.surinhuahin.com

HUA HIN Thipurai Beach Hotel e 0 S z  113/27 Phet Kasem Rd 77100 Tel 0-3253-2731 Fax 0-3251-2210 Rooms 59 Road Map C2 A short walk from Hat Hua Hin, this hotel has clean, bright rooms with mini-bars, and cable TV. The rooms in the main building are smart, while the cheaper rooms at the annex are homely with floral bedspreads and curtains. There is a small swimming pool and a casual eatery serving local Thai dishes. www.thipurai.com

HUA HIN Anantasila By The Sea e 0 S ÷ z  35/15 Phet Kasem Rd, Nongkae 77110 Tel 0-3251-1879 Fax 0-3251-5914 Rooms 73 Road Map C2 Located on the coast just south of Hua Hin town, with a working fishing village further down the beach, this new resort is small and intimate with a variety of accommodations and a fairly large swimming pool. It also organizes activities for young kids. www.anantasila.com

HUA HIN Anantara Resort & Spa 0 S ÷ å z ∫  45/1 Phet Kasem Rd 77100 Tel 0-3252-0250 Fax 0-3252-0259 Rooms 187 Road Map C2 This lovely resort with expansive fragrant gardens, exotic architecture, and excellent restaurants, is a perfect tropical destination. The rooms with sea views are hard to resist and the plush lagoon rooms with waterside balconies have access to a private swimming pool. The spa is one of Thailand’s best. www.anantara.com

HUA HIN Chiva-Som International Health Resort e 0 S ÷ z  73/4 Phet Kasem Rd 77100 Tel 0-3253-6536 Fax 0-3251-1154 Rooms 57 Road Map C2 This seaside destination spa and health resort is set in tranquil gardens with lily ponds and Buddha statues. Guests receive a consultation on arrival. All meals, a wide array of spa treatments, fitness classes, and activities are included in the package. A minimum three-night stay is required. www.chivasom.com

HUA HIN Putahracsa 0 S z  22/65 Naep Kaehat Rd 77100 Tel 0-3253-1470 Fax 0-3253-1488 Rooms 58 Road Map C2 Minimalist and uncluttered design in a residential area of Hua Hin, but within walking distance of the action, the stylish Putahracsa has a variety of rooms and villa suites, all tastefully designed and appointed. There are two properties astride a road, so not all rooms are on the beach. www.putahracsa.com

HUA HIN Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and Villas e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  1 Damnoenkasem Rd 77100 Tel 0-3251-2021 Fax 0-3251-1014 Rooms 249 Road Map C2 Originally opened in 1923, at the terminus of the new railway to Hua Hin, this classic hotel has been consistently voted as one of the top ten in Asia. The grand Colonial style building’s expansive manicured grounds and beachfront location are simply fabulous. The private-pool villas are truly luxurious. www.sofitel.com

PHETCHABURI Royal Diamond Hotel e 0  555 Moo 1 Phet Kasem Rd 76000 Tel 0-3241-1061 Fax 0-3242-4310 Rooms 58 Road Map C1 A modern and respectable mid-range place on the outskirts of town with views of the city and the mountains, this hotel is frequented by Thai business people and families. A good restaurant serves Thai and European cuisine, and the outdoor beer garden has a pleasant, tropical atmosphere. www.royaldiamondhotel.com

PHETCHABURI Fisherman’s Village Resort 0 S ÷ å z ∫  170 Moo 1, Hat Chao Samrin 76100 Tel 0-3244-1370 Fax 0-3244-1380 Rooms 35 Road Map C1 This stylish boutique resort of luxury villas on the beautiful beachfront of Hat Chao Samrin, a traditional fishing village in rural Phetchaburi, has an inviting swimming pool, a lovely spa, and an array of activities including fishing, watersports, hiking, cycling, and bird-watching. www.fishermansvillage.net 300 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN Banito Beach Resort 0 S z  283 Klang Ao Road, Ban Krut Tel 0-3269-5282-3 Fax 0-3269-5282 Rooms 60 Road Map C2 The Banito has a variety of bungalows running inland from the beach to a nice swimming pool. Located on Ban Krut which is the favorite beach for Thais who wish to escape the bustle of Hua Hin, this resort combines the best of both worlds. Good seafood is available at the seaside pavilions. www.banitobeach.com

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN Sailom Resort 0 S z  299 Moo 5, Mae Rumpeung, Bang Saphan 77140 Tel 0-3269-1003 Fax 0-3269-1439 Rooms 12 Road Map C2 This modern resort is a new addition to the hotels in this region. Sailom Resort is clean and popular with Thai families for its suites and villas. There is a nice big pool and the adjacent beach is nearly deserted. The restaurant serves good quality Thai cuisine. www.sailombangsaphan.com

PRANBURI Brassiere Beach Resort 0 S z  210 Moo 5, Thambon Sam Roi Yot Tel 0-3263-0555 Fax 0-3263-0554 Rooms 12 Road Map C2 The two oddly shaped islands just off the coast as well as a local legend are responsible for this hotel’s name. Each of the 12 separate cottages have an overall Mediterranean theme, but with different touches. The place has quirky elements, as well as leisurely dining options especially the fresh seafood. www.brassierebeach.com

PRANBURI Aleenta Resort & Spa 0 S ÷ z ∫  183 Moo 4, Pak Nam Pran 77220 Tel 0-2508-5333 Rooms 21 Road Map C2 This sleek minimalist property on a pretty beach makes for an ideal seaside escape. With just 21 luxury suites, bungalows, and a beachhouse – all with sea views, guests are assured peace and privacy. Thoughtful touches include iPod docks, complimentary wireless Internet, and daily gourmet treats. www.aleenta.com

PRANBURI Evason Hua Hin Resort - Hideaway and Six Sense Spa 0 S ÷ z ∫  9 Moo 3, Hat Naresuan 77220 Tel 0-3263-2111 Fax 0-3263-2112 Rooms 185 Road Map C2 These adjacent eco-friendly resorts located on a beautiful palm-lined beach are ideal retreats. The Hideaway, with its luxurious villas is more exclusive but both share superb facilities, excellent restaurants, bars, a gorgeous swimming pool, and several spas, including the extraordinary Earth Spa. www.evasonresorts.com

LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST

KO PHANGAN Beam Bungalows ¤ 0  Hat Thian 82480 Tel 0-7927-2854, 08-6947-3205 Rooms 12 Road Map C4 A coconut grove lies between thatched bungalows and the beach, but there is still a clear sea view from the rooms, and the beach is a short walk away. The atmosphere is laid-back with many long-staying guests. The food is simple but tasty. This resort is a youthful and vibrant place attracting the backpacker crowd.

KO PHANGAN Chokana ¤ 0  Ao Tong Sala, Ban Tai Tel 0-7723-8085 Rooms 18 Road Map C4 The spacious nature of the huts here makes them feel more like bungalows, and they all have their own unique touches that make guests feel completely at home. There are regular seafood barbeques and parties organized by the owner who makes this place very pleasant and comfortable.

KO PHANGAN Dolphin ¤ 0  Ao Thong Nai Phan Yai 84280 Rooms 16 Road Map C4 Regular guests swear that the Dolphin, beautifully set in a large tropical beachside garden, is paradise and that its wooden huts, simply furnished with beds and mosquito nets, are just perfect. Comprising several Thai pavilions strewn with cushions, the garden restaurant has a reputation as the best in the area.

KO PHANGAN Sanctuary & Wellness Center ¤ ÷  Hat Thian 84280 Tel 08-1271-3614 Rooms 30 Road Map C4 Yoga, massage, meditation, fasting, and colonic irrigation are all offered here, although some guests come here just to escape from the parties and bustle that Ko Phangan is renowned for. A wide variety of rooms are available, some with their own kitchens. www.thesanctuarythailand.com

KO PHANGAN Cocohut Village 0 S z  Hat Seekantang 84280 Tel 0-7737-5368 Rooms 16 Road Map C4 Just over the hill from busy Hat Rin, Hat Seekantang, also called Leela Beach, is a better beach than the former. Cocohut Village offers a variety of accommodations ranging from basic to luxurious beachfront villas with outdoor Jacuzzis. The food is good and the atmosphere laid-back, but so is the service. www.cocohut.com

KO PHANGAN Milky Bay Resort 0 z  102 Moo 1, Hat Ban Tai 84280 Tel 0-7723-8566 Fax 0-7737-7726 Rooms 34 Road Map C4 A good mid-range choice at Hat Ban Tai. Rooms and rates vary considerably, but most units are free-standing bungalows. Facilities are many and include massages, a herbal steam room, and a fitness center. Guests can spend time lounging on the lovely beach and enjoying the Thai and Italian cuisine. www.milkybay.com

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 301

KO PHANGAN Phanganburi Resort 0 S z  120/1 Hat Rin Nai 84280 Tel 0-7737-5481 Fax 0-7737-5482 Rooms 105 Road Map C4 Close to the nighttime activities of Ko Phangan, this attractive mid-range resort has two swimming pools, one right on the beach, and also offers a variety of watersports including kitesurfing. Not strong on style but clean and efficient. www.phanganburiresort.net

KO PHANGAN Sunset Cove Resort 0 S z  78/11 Moo 8, Hat Chao Phrao 84280 Tel 0-7734-9211 Fax 0-7734-9215 Rooms 18 Road Map C4 This boutique hotel might be a bit too small to be called a resort, but it is nonetheless the nicest place on Hat Chao Phrao. The resort’s attractions include a pool on the beach with great sunset views, excellent food, value for money, and friendly service, all of which ensure a loyal clientele. www.thaisunsetcove.com

KO PHANGAN Mandalai 0 S z  Ao Chalok Lam 84280 Tel 0-7737-4316-9 Fax 0-7737-4320 Rooms 12 Road Map C4 Cool, modern, clean, and right on the beach outside a small fishing village, this boutique hotel offers a wide variety of activities including elephant trekking and fishing trips. The rooms are very well-appointed and the food is excellent. A good place for those who want to escape the backpacker scene. www.mymandalai.com

KO PHANGAN Salad Beach Resort 0 S z  Hat Salad 84280 Tel 0-7734-9274 Rooms 48 Road Map C4 Hat Salad is an idyllic beach at the northwestern end of the island and the Salad Beach Resort is stylish and very comfortable. The massage service, restaurant, and pool are mentioned favorably by many guests.The waterfall Jacuzzi and open-air restaurant are other attractions. www.saladbeachphangan.com

KO PHANGAN Green Papaya 0 S z  64/8 Moo 8, Hat Salad 84280 Tel 0-7734-9278 Fax 0-7737-4230 Rooms 18 Road Map C4 Set amid a fragrant garden filled with coconut palms and a curved swimming pool, these beautiful bungalows by the beach have polished wooden floors. The artwork on the walls is probably the most stylish on the island. The boat-shaped restaurant and beach bar offer spectacular sunset views. www.samui-hotels.com

KO PHANGAN Panviman Resort e 0 S ÷ z  22/1 Moo 5, Ao Thong Nai Phan Noi 84280 Tel 0-7744-5101 Fax 0-7744-5100 Rooms 72 Road Map C4 Panviman Resort is the most exclusive address on Ko Phangnan, set high on a hill above the beach which affords excellent sea views. The frequent hotel shuttles take guests to the beach. Its lovely beachside barbeque restaurant and in-house spa complete the package. www.panviman.com

KO SAMUI Chez Ban-Ban Resort ¤ 0 z  Hat Bangrak 84280 Tel 0-7724-5135 Rooms 10 Road Map C4 This resort is under Francophone Swiss management, so guests can play the typically French game of pétanque or drink French liqueurs such as Ricard. The food, both Thai and French, is excellent, and the atmosphere unpretentious and relaxed. There are 10 red-brick bungalows, and a small garden right next to the beach.

KO SAMUI Jungle Club S z  Soi Panyadee School, Hat Chaweng 84280 Tel 08-1894-2327 Rooms 11 Road Map C4 This is an excellent respite from the frenetic beach scene, since it is built high on a hill above Hat Chaweng. The emphasis is on relaxation rather than crazy parties. There are a variety of accommodations from simple huts to lavish villas. The management is French and the food is quite good. www.jungleclubsamui.com

KO SAMUI Lamai Wanta 0 S z  124/264 Moo 3, Hat Lamai 84310 Tel 0-7742-4550 Fax 0-7742-4218 Rooms 74 Road Map C4 Close to all the action in Lamai, but far enough to be quiet and still directly on the beach, this recently renovated hotel is quite clean and comfortable. Lamai Wanta is not super stylish or full of facilities, but it does have a nice infinity pool which is right next to the beach as is the hotel’s restaurant. www.lamaiwanta.com

KO SAMUI Shambala ¤ 0  23/2 Moo 4, Hat Bangrak 84280 Tel 0-7742-5330 Rooms 15 Road Map C4 Run by an English couple, the Shambala offers a rustic and relaxed set of rooms close to the beach. Facilities are few, but the staff is friendly and helpful. Shambala supports responsible tourism and promotes local culture, making this a different kind of experience. www.samui-shambala.com

KO SAMUI Sunbeam ¤ 0 z  Ao Bang Po 84280 Tel 0-7742-0600 Rooms 15 Road Map C4 These rustic bungalows are located on Ao Bang Po – a very quiet beach on the north of the island. Set in a pretty overgrown tropical garden, these basic but comfortable rooms are tailored to a slightly older clientele rather than the party crowd. Great seafood barbeques are an added plus.

KO SAMUI Sunrise Bungalow ¤ 0 ÷ z  Hat Lamai 84310 Tel 0-7742-4433 Rooms 16 Road Map C4 Near the Hin Ta Hin Yai rock at the southern end of Hat Lamai, Sunrise Bungalow is the longest-running place in Lamai. Rooms run the gamut from very basic fan-cooled huts to modern air-conditioned bungalows, some right on the beach, and some in a garden at the back of the property. www.sunrisebungalow.com 302 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

KO SAMUI Am Samui Resort 0 S z  227 Moo 3, Hat Taling Ngam 84140 Tel 0-7723-5165 Rooms 47 Road Map C4 Located on the quieter west coast of the island, this unpretentious set of bungalows formerly known as the Weisenthal Resort, is renowned for cleanliness and value. Casual and comfortable, it is a good place for families. The open-air restaurant serves good Thai and Western food. www.amsamuiresort.com

KO SAMUI Coral Cove Chalet 0 S ÷ z  210 Moo 4, Hat Tong Takian 84320 Tel 0-7742-2260 Fax 0-7742-2496 Rooms 81 Road Map C4 These attractive chalets are nestled on a palm-covered hillside overlooking a cove. Coral Cove Chalet has its own private beach and the spacious rooms are painted in pastel colors with big beds covered with mosquito nets. It is possible to snorkel and scuba dive in the coral reefs offshore. www.coralcovechalet.com

KO SAMUI Laem Set Inn e 0 S ÷ å z  110 Moo 2, Hua Thanon, Ao Laem Set 84310 Tel 0-7742-4393 Fax 0-7742-4394 Rooms 30 Road Map C4 Located in a secluded spot at the end of the Laem Set point, Laem Set Inn offers a wide variety of accommodations, almost all constructed of teakwood. They welcome families and the mildly chaotic, but friendly atmosphere makes for a fun stay. However, this is a laid-back place and not for travelers looking for an active nightlife.

KO SAMUI L’Hacienda 0 S z  98/2 Moo 1, Hat Bophut 84320 Tel 0-7724-5943 Rooms 12 Road Map C4 This place owned by a French couple is an odd mixture of Asian, Mediterranean, and South American styles, but the agreeable atmosphere, excellent food, service, and the rooftop swimming pool make it worth the while. Close to the beach and the village of Bophut, L’Hacienda offers value for money. www.samui-hacienda

KO SAMUI Pinnacle Samui Coco Palm 0 S ÷ z  26/19 Moo 4, Hat Mae Nam 84330 Tel 0-7742-7308 Fax 0-7743-7309 Rooms 70 Road Map C4 The Coco Palm, a long-time favorite at Mae Nam has been taken over by a Thai chain called Pinnacle. Except for the name change, much is the same. It is friendly and unpretentious, with the emphasis on cleanliness and value rather than style. Standard rooms and cottages are available. www.pinnaclehotels.com

KO SAMUI Weekender Resort S ÷ z  124/19 Moo 3, Hat Lamai 84310 Tel 0-7742-4429 Fax 0-7742-4011 Rooms 122 Road Map C4 Weekender Resort is on the southern end of Hat Lamai and offers a wide range of accommodations, including luxurious suites. The style is contemporary and elegant. The restaurant – Sunday’s Brasserie – offers an interesting beachside dining experience. An in-house spa completes the package. www.weekender-samui.com

KO SAMUI Coconut Villa Resort and Spa 0 S z  Laem Hin Khom, Ao Taling Ngam 84140 Tel 0-7733-4069 Fax 0-7733-4071 Rooms 53 Road Map C4 The main point of interest here is the seclusion – the resort is located on its own private beach. There are six villas, plush suites, two swimming pools, and good spa facilities. Kayaking trips complete the package. Visitors should hire a car to be able to travel around the area. www.coconutvillaresort.com

KO SAMUI Anantara 0 S ÷ å z ∫  99/9 Moo 1, Ao Bophut 84320 Tel 0-7742-8300 Fax 0-7742-8310 Rooms 106 Road Map C4 With its exotic Thai architecture, Zen minimalist rooms, and tranquil tropical gardens replete with palms, lily ponds, lotus flowers, and pretty Thai pavilions, the Anantara is simply sublime. If these are not reasons enough to stay, there is also an infinity pool, an exotic spa, and superb restaurants and bars. www.anantara.com

KO SAMUI Baan Taling Ngam Resort and Spa 0 S z  295 Moo 3, Hat Taling Ngam 84320 Tel 0-7742-3019 Fax 0-7742-3220 Rooms 70 Road Map C4 Formerly the Royal Meridien, this luxurious group of rooms, suites, and free standing villas regularly get top ratings. Set on a hillside above the beach with 26 acres of landscaped gardens and seven swimming pools, it is the ultimate in traditional luxury. www.baan-taling-ngam.com

KO SAMUI Blue Lagoon Hotel 0 S z  99 Moo 2, Hat Chaweng 84320 Tel 0-7742-2037 Fax 0-7742-2401 Rooms 74 Road Map C4 Beautiful Thai architecture and the location on an attractive stretch of Hat Chaweng make this resort a popular choice. Families love the swimming pools and the wide range of watersports including kayaking, snorkeling, sailing, and water-skiing. The hotel’s Kantara restaurant is excellent. www.bluelagoonhotel.com

KO SAMUI Centara Villas Samui 0 S ÷ å z ∫  38/2 Moo 3, Hat Na Thian Tel 0-7742-4020 Fax 0-7742-4022 Rooms 1000 Road Map C4 Situated on the pretty, palm-lined Hat Na Thian in southern Samui, this property offers extremely luxurious free-standing villas. The bright and airy Thai-style villas feature colorful, contemporary decor, and some have private Jacuzzis or plunge pools. The beachside Reef Café is popular. www.centarahotelsresorts.com

KO SAMUI Four Seasons 0 S ÷ å z ∫  219 Moo 5 Ang Thong, Laem Yai 84140 Tel 0-7724-3000 Fax 0-7723-6559 Rooms 74 Road Map C4 Sprawled across palm-covered hills overlooking a cove, these luxurious villas on stilts have private infinity pools with sea views. There are two superb restaurants serving Thai, Italian, and seafood dishes; a beachside lounge bar and sublime spa set amid the jungle. This is Samui’s best resort. www.fourseasons.com

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 303

KO SAMUI Muang Kulaypan Hotel 0 S ÷ z  100 Moo 2, Hat Chaweng 84320 Tel 0-7723-0850 Fax 0-7723-0031 Rooms 42 Road Map C4 This hip hotel attracts a funky crowd. Its boho-chic rooms have tie-and-dye bed covers, big black bathrooms, and art on the walls. The sculptures around the property and a stunning black-tiled swimming pool adds to the appeal of the place. Top it off with cocktails at the bar on the beach. www.kulaypan.com

KO SAMUI Napasai 0 S ÷ z  65/10 Moo 5, Mae Nam 84330 Tel 0-7742-9200 Fax 0-7742-9201 Rooms 45 Road Map C4 The Thai-style villas here are luxurious but not over the top. There is an infinity pool on the beach, but each villa has its own private plunge pool. There is an on-site spa, tennis courts, and a golf course which is a five-minute drive away. Deep-sea fishing and jungle trekking can be arranged by the resort. www.napasai.com

KO SAMUI Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort 0 S ÷ å z ∫  124/24 Moo 3, Hat Lamai 84310 Tel 0-7742-4030 Fax 0-7724-2029 Rooms 73 Road Map C4 Opulence and style pervade these villas, all with their own Jacuzzis or private pools. The atmosphere is romantic and in fact the resort specializes in honeymoon packages. The food is excellent but is confined to seafood specialties and fine wines. There is an on-site spa and a fully equipped fitness center. www.pavillionsamui.com

KO SAMUI Six Senses Hideaway 0 S ÷ z  9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, Bophut 84320 Tel 0-7724-5678 Fax 0-7724-5671 Rooms 66 Road Map C4 This destination spa offers a collection of plush villas differing in size but not in luxury. All have either Jacuzzis or private infinity pools and are superbly appointed. The staff is extremely attentive and the food is excellent. This is probably one of the top three places for a luxurious stay on Ko Samui. www.sixsenses.com

KO SAMUI The Library 0 S ÷ z  14/1 Moo 2, Hat Chaweng 84320 Tel 0-7742-2767 Fax 0-7742-2344 Rooms 26 Road Map C4 This chic designer hotel was developed around the idea of books and reading. The Library has a floor-to-ceiling glass room crammed with books, magazines, and CDs for guests to use, right beside the red-tiled swimming pool. The minimalist white rooms are striking and the restaurant called The Page is excellent. www.thelibrary.name

KO SAMUI Zazen 0 S ÷ z  177 Moo 1, Bophut 84320 Tel 0-7742-5085 Fax 0-7742-5177 Rooms 22 Road Map C4 There is a lot of originality in style and design here – it is not just another boutique resort. The rooms and villas of this activity-oriented place have an orange sun-washed color scheme and tiled roofs. They are justifiably proud of their master chef and the restaurant is renowned for its interesting fusion food. www.samuizazen.com

KO TAO Blue Wind Resort and Bakery ¤ 0 z  Hat Sai Ri 84280 Tel 0-7745-6015 Rooms 35 Road Map C3 “Resort” might be stretching it, but this is a good choice for budget travelers. Yoga is a popular pursuit here rather than diving. It is famed in the neighborhood for its bakery and quality vegetarian food in the restaurant. Both fan-cooled and air-conditioned bungalows are offered.

KO TAO JP Resort 0  Ao Chalok Ban Kao 84280 Tel 0-7745-6099 Rooms 44 Road Map C3 This beach, located in the extreme south of Ko Tao, is much quieter than Hat Sai Ri, and the water is shallow so it is preferable for families.The JP Resort has a variety of pleasant and economically-priced bungalows located on the hillside above their beachside restaurant. Everything is clean and solid without any frills.

KO TAO Sunset Buri Resort 0 S z  Hat Sai Ri 84280 Tel 0-7745-6266 Fax 0-7745-6101 Rooms 12 Road Map C3 A relaxed resort without the diving scene vibe that permeates other places on Ko Tao. Its lush garden and pool are popular with the guests, who have a choice of accommodations from simple to deluxe bungalows on the beach itself. The food is simple and not too expensive.

KO TAO Mango Bay Grand Resort 0 z  Ao Mamuang 84280 Tel 0-7745-6097 Rooms 15 Road Map C3 This is an excellent mid-range choice on an isolated cove on the north shore of the island. It is not as spectacularly designed as some of the other places, but is still tasteful and the snorkeling in front of the resort is superb. It offers both Thai and Italian food and a wide variety of activities. www.kotaomangobay.com

KO TAO Nangyuan Island Dive Resort 0 z  Ko Nangyuan 84280 Tel 0-7745-6088 Rooms 55 Road Map C3 This private island in a small three-island archipelago offers beautiful bungalows set among big boulders around a gorgeous azure-colored cove. Guests come for the excellent diving among superb marine life on the coral reef encircling the island. Depending on the tide, guests can walk or swim to the resort café. www.nangyuan.com

KO TAO Charm Churee Villa 0 S z  30/1 Moo 2, Ao Jansom 82480 Tel 0-7745-6393 Fax 0-7745-6475 Rooms 73 Road Map C3 Located just south of Hat Sai Ri, this spectacular resort and spa has design elements right out of a movie set. There are quirky elements everywhere and guests can enjoy lunch at the beachside Elvis Café. Most of the bungalows are more like villas, and the views are spectacular. www.charmchureevilla.com 304 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

KO TAO Dusit Buncha Resort 0 S ÷ z  31/3 Moo 1 Tambol Ko Tao 84280 Tel 0-7745-6730 Rooms 40 Road Map C3 Not affiliated with the Dusit group, this unique spot on the northwestern corner of the island overlooks Ko Nangyuan and is not too far from the bustling Hat Sai Ri. It is popular with Thais who enjoy the local version of eco-friendly resorts – the bungalows here blend with the natural environment. www.dusitbuncharesort.com

KO TAO Jamahkiri Resort & Spa 0 S ÷ z  Ao Thian Ok 84360 Tel 0-7745-6400 Rooms 12 Road Map C3 The Resort and Spa’s 12 bungalows are nestled among boulders on a hillside just above the shoreline thus merging into the natural surroundings. There is an on-site spa, excellent Western and Thai food, and well-managed diving tours. It is probably the most luxurious resort on Ko Tao. www.jamahkhiri.com

NAKHON SI THAMMARAT Grand Park Hotel e 0 S å z  1204/79 Pak Nakhon Rd 80200 Tel 0-7531-7666-73 Fax 0-7531-7674 Rooms 82 Road Map C4 It does not have a park, nor is it particularly grand, but this hotel is clean, modern, fairly priced, and centrally located. This is the best choice for travelers on a stopover at Nakhon Si Thammarat while en route to a beach destination. Get a room with a view and try the southern curries on offer in the restaurant.

NAKHON SI THAMMARAT Racha Kiri 0 S ÷ å z  Hat Nai Phlao 80210 Tel 0-7530-0245 Fax 0-7552-7833 Rooms 33 Road Map C4 If a trip to Ko Samui is not possible, this is a good second choice. Located on the mainland, a 15-minute drive from the ferry landing, the Racha Kiri replicates a tropical resort atmosphere in splendid isolation on the coast. However, the beach falls short compared to Ko Samui’s lovely stretches. www.rachakiri.com

SURAT THANI Ban Don Hotel ¤ 0 z  268/2 Na Mueng Rd 84000 Tel 0-7726-2177 Rooms 16 Road Map C4 This is another good hotel for a stopover and the best budget choice in town. The ground floor has a decent Chinese restaurant, and upstairs there is a choice of fan-cooled or air-conditioned rooms with private baths, and at prices that are hard to find on Ko Samui. Look for a room off the street to escape the noise.

SURAT THANI 100 Islands Resort & Spa 0 S z  19/6 Moo 3, Bypass Rd, Makhamtia 84000 Tel 0-7729-1150 Rooms 38 Road Map C4 If downtown Surat Thani does not appeal, this teakwood palace on the outskirts of town offers a lovely garden atmosphere and a swimming pool with a waterfall at very reasonable rates. Locals come here for meals at the excellent seafood restaurant. www.roikoh.com

UPPER ANDAMAN COAST

PHANG NGA BAY Pasai Bungalows ¤ 0  Ko Yao Noi 82160 Tel 0-7659-7064 Rooms 10 Road Map B5 Locally owned and managed, the basic nature of the place is offset by the friendly family atmosphere and excellent local food. The bungalows have a nice garden and face a lovely beach with a view of the offshore islands. There are queen-sized beds and 24-hour electricity, but the neighbor’s chickens might annoy late risers.

PHANG NGA BAY Phang Nga Inn 0 z  2/2 Soi Lohakit, Phet Kasem Rd 82000 Tel 0-7641-1963 Rooms 12 Road Map B5 Once the stately home of a prosperous merchant, the inn is now divided into 12 teak-paneled units of varying shapes and sizes. The staff is friendly, helpful, and put together some great meals for the guests, including southern Thai curries. It is also off the main road so it is quiet.

PHANG NGA BAY Yao Yai Resort 0 z  Moo 7, Baan Lo Pareh, Pru Nai, Ko Yao Yai 82160 Tel 0-819684641 Fax 0-864714487 Rooms 21 Road Map B5 On the west coast of Ko Yao Yai, Hat Lo Pareh faces Phuket across Phang Nga Bay and has superb sunset views. This resort offers a choice of fan-cooled or air-conditioned bungalows, boat and diving trips, a lovely garden, helpful staff, and a good restaurant known for its fresh seafood. www.yaoyairesort.com

PHANG NGA BAY Lom Lae Beach Resort 0 z  Ko Yao Noi 82160 Tel 0-7659-7486 Rooms 7 Road Map B5 This small resort is set next to the beach in a spacious garden. Nice free-standing wooden bungalows are available at a mid-range price. There is an on-site dive shop. The resort is sometimes closed during the rains from May to September and visitors should call and check before making their way here. www.lomlae.com

PHANG NGA BAY Phang Nga Bay Resort Hotel e 0 S z  20 Thadan Panyi 82000 Tel 0-7641-1067 Rooms 88 Road Map B5 This place offers something different from the regular beach-oriented hotels. Set on an estuary at a fair distance from the bay, the rooms offer incredible views of the surrounding jungle. The hotel’s boat transports guests to some of the nearby beaches and islands. This place is slightly off the beaten track.

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 305

PHANG NGA BAY Six Senses Hideaway 0 S ÷ å z ∫  56 Moo 5, Ko Yao Noi 82160 Tel 0-7641-8500 Fax 0-7641-8518 Rooms 88 Road Map B5 Six Senses is synonymous with uncompromised standards of luxury. Each villa has a private infinity pool and a personal staff member to attend to every whim. There is a superb on-site spa. Winner of awards for luxury, style, and social responsibility, this is a truly lavish and exclusive resort. www.sixsenses.com

PHANG NGA COAST Khao Lak Banana Bungalows 0 S z  4/147 Moo 7, Khuk Kak, Khao Lak 82190 Tel 0-7648-5889 Rooms 30 Road Map B5 A 10-minute walk from the beach, these clean and well-maintained bungalows get consistently good reviews and are a good budget option in Khao Lak. There is also a lush garden and large pool which is used for diving lessons. Choose between air-conditioned or fan-cooled rooms. www.khaolakbanana.com

PHANG NGA COAST Poseidon Bungalows 0 S z  1/6 Khao Lak, Laem Kaen 82210 Tel 0-7644-3258 Rooms 15 Road Map B5 Located south of Hat Khao Lak, these bungalows offer a more relaxed choice for those who are looking for something quiet. Owned and managed by an environmentally conscious Swedish-Thai couple, they also offer trekking and diving tours of the Similan Islands. www.similantour.nu

PHANG NGA COAST Golden Buddha Beach Resort 0 z  Ko Phra Thong 82150 Tel 08-1892-2208 Rooms 27 Road Map B5 Located just off the coast in the north of Phang Nga province, Ko Phra Thong is an excellent respite from commercial beaches. This eco-resort has a homely atmosphere and specializes in new-age activities such as yoga, although more traditional pursuits also abound. www.goldenbuddharesort.com

PHANG NGA COAST Nangthong Bay Resort 0 S z  Ao Nang Thong, Khao Lak 82210 Tel 0-7648-5088 Rooms 79 Road Map B5 Right next to Hat Khao Lak and close to the restaurants and shopping area, this mid-range resort is a good choice for families since some of the rooms are huge and accommodate extra beds easily. The food is quite good and the staff aim to please but their English is shaky at times. www.nangthongbeachresort.de

PHANG NGA COAST Aleenta 0 S å z  33 Moo 2, Khok Kloy 82140 Tel 0-7658-0333 Fax 0-7658-0350 Rooms 50 Road Map B5 This chic resort set on a deserted stretch of beach, makes for an accessible and secluded escape. The sleek and minimalist suites have stunning sea views, iPods, yoga mats, and plunge pools. There is a cool beach bar and an excellent restaurant. www.aleenta.com

PHANG NGA COAST Khao Lak Wanaburee Resort 0 S ÷ z  26/11 Moo 7, Khuk Khak, Takua Pa 82190 Tel 0-7648-5333–5 Fax 0-7648-5750 Rooms 24 Road Map B5 Located on Hat Nang Thong, Wanaburee Resort offers first-class accommodations right on the beach. The free-standing villas are interspersed among lagoons and set in a forest-like garden. The rooms are recently built and sturdy structures. The resort offers a variety of outdoor activities. www.wanaburee.com

PHANG NGA COAST Le Meridien Khao Lak 0 S ÷ å z ∫  9/9 Moo 1, Kuk Kak, Takua Pa, Khao Lak 82190 Tel 0-7642-7500 Fax 0-7642-7575 Rooms 120 Road Map B5 It is located south of Khao Lak town, but urban travelers will miss nothing since the Meridien has everything. A truly sumptuous facility with three pools and lovely well-maintained gardens. The accommodations start with deluxe rooms right up to villas with private pools. www.starwoodhotels.com

PHANG NGA COAST Mukdara Beach Villa & Spa Resort 0 S z  26/14 Moo 7, Khuk Khak, Takua Pa 82190 Tel 0-7642-9999 Fax 0-7648-6199 Rooms 40 Road Map B5 With two pools – one beachside, one in the garden – visitors are spoiled for choice. The location is close to other restaurants but quiet. The villas come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are good for families despite not being as chic as some of the more design-oriented properties. www.mukdarabeach.com

PHANG NGA COAST Ranyatavi Resort and Spa 0 S z  32/7 Moo 5, Hat Pilai, Kok Kloy, Takuatung Tel 0-7658-0800 Fax 0-7658-0888 Rooms 53 Road Map B5 Located in the Hat Pilai area, it is close to Phuket town and visitors can easily travel there for entertainment options. The resort is renowned for its reliable management and excellent Thai food. Accommodations range from standard rooms to free-standing villas. Good for families. www.ranyatavi.com

PHANG NGA COAST Sarojin 0 S ÷ z  60 Moo 2, Khu Kak, Hat Bang Sak 82190 Tel 0-7642-7900–4 Rooms 56 Road Map B5 Located north of Khao Lak, Sarojin is a luxurious boutique resort which gets regular accolades from the travel press, as well as many returning guests. The grounds are spacious and the free-standing villas are beautifully designed. This is an intimate and expensive resort. www.sarojin.com

PHUKET Casa Brazil z  9 Soi Luang Por Chuan 1, Hat Karon 83100 Tel 0-7639-6317 Rooms 21 Road Map B5 Brazilian motifs prevail throughout the hotel and the ambience is homely as well as ethno-chic. The decor is a celebration of South American arts and life with a Thai flair. The rooms are air-conditioned and clean with a vibrant decor. There is a nice garden and restaurant in the central courtyard. www.phukethomestay.com 306 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

PHUKET Fantasy Hill Bungalow z  8/1 Patak Rd, Hat Karon 83100 Tel 0-7633-0106 Rooms 35 Road Map B5 Located on a hill between Hat Kata and Hat Karon, these clean budget bungalows offer excellent value and have an understated atmosphere. All units have a balcony and the bigger ones come with a porch around the veranda. There is a choice of fan-cooled or air-conditioned rooms, and a nice shaded garden.

PHUKET Laemka Beach Inn 0 z  159 Viset Rd, Chalong, Rawai 83100 Tel 0-7638-1305 Rooms 20 Road Map B5 On the southeastern coast of Phuket, the atmosphere is less frenetic than on the west coast beaches. This area is more the domain of yachtsmen, but Hat Laemka is calm and relaxed. The thatched-roof bungalows are close to the beach, and while some are air-conditioned, all of them are pleasantly airy.

PHUKET Shanti Lodge ¤ 0 z  1/2 Soi Bangrae, Choafa Nok Rd, Ao Chalong Tel 0-7628-0233 Rooms 20 Road Map B5 Located in a village off the coast, Shanti Lodge offers an excellent alternative to the beach scene where travelers can actually meet the local people. The lodge puts an emphasis on yoga and vegetarian food, although there are other options as well. It is inexpensive and relaxing, but not run down. www.shantilodge.com

PHUKET Square One 0 z  241/34 Ratuthit Rd, Hat Patong 83150 Tel 0-7634-1486 Fax 0-7634-0873 Rooms 14 Road Map B5 This new budget hotel has simply decorated rooms that are spotlessly clean, with cable TV and fridge. Long-stay guests should upgrade to a suite, which is considerably more comfortable. There is wireless Internet and a small swimming pool, but hardly any space for sunbathing. www.square1.biz

PHUKET The Taste 0 z  16-18 Rassada Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7622-2812 Fax 0-7625-6225 Rooms 10 Road Map B5 This boutique hotel in an old Sino-Portuguese-style shophouse in Phuket town oozes character. There is a café-cum-bar-cum-lobby – that hosts art exhibitions and DJ nights. Opt for a suite, veranda, or garden room over a cramped standard which has an open bathroom in the main room. www.thetastephuket.com

PHUKET Baipho 0 S z  205/12-13 Rat-U-Tit Rd, Hat Patong 83150 Tel 0-7629-2074 Fax 0-7629-2207 Rooms 20 Road Map B5 A very chic little boutique hotel in the center of the action, Baipho is under Swiss management and everything runs like clockwork. The decor is modern with local touches, and the clientele is mainly young. The hotel serves excellent European food and special Jacuzzi rooms add a touch of luxury. www.baipho.com

PHUKET Benyada Lodge 0 S z  106/52 Moo 3, Cherng Talay, Hat Surin 83110 Tel 0-7627-1261–4 Fax 0-7627-1265 Rooms 29 Road Map B5 This is a nice beach that has long been a favorite with locals. The five-story Benyada Lodge is close to the beach, has helpful staff, nice but ordinary rooms, and is done up in contemporary Thai style. The neighborhood offers quite a few dining options. www.benyadalodge-phuket.com

PHUKET Kamala Dreams 0 S z  74/1 Moo 3, Ao Kamala, Katu 83120 Tel 0-7627-9131 Fax 0-7627-9132 Rooms 18 Road Map B5 Situated on lovely, low-key Hat Kamala, Kamala Dreams is set around a decent-sized pool and consists of comfortable studios with sea views. Rooms have kitchenettes with a fridge and microwave. There is a small garden and a footbridge leading to the beach. www.kamaladreams.net

PHUKET Nai Harn Garden Resort 0 S z  Hat Nai Harn 83110 Tel 0-7628-8319 Fax 0-7628-8320 Rooms 23 Road Map B5 Located in the village of Nai Harn, this mid-range resort of bungalows and villas is a good choice, especially if guests have their own transportation to explore the back roads in this part of the island. There is a spa, Internet café, swimming pool, and a piano bar. The restaurant serves good food. www.naiharngardenresort.com

PHUKET Naithon Beach Resort 0 S z  23/31 Moo 4, Nai Thon Beach Rd 83110 Tel 0-7620-5379-80 Fax 0-7620-5381 Rooms 15 Road Map B5 For those traveling to the west coast who do not want a party scene, Hat Nai Thon with its windy beaches and sunset views is perfect. This mid-range resort consists of free-standing bungalows of varying sizes and a quaint poolside bar and restaurant. There are many dive shops in the area. www.phuket-naithon.com

PHUKET Royal Phuket City Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z  154 Phang Nga Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7623-3333 Rooms 251 Road Map B5 This is mainly a businessman’s hotel, so it offers efficiency, practicality, and good value, rather than a laid-back holiday atmosphere. Still, it is a pleasant and comfortable place to recuperate from beach or island forays. Good spa, fitness center, and views of the city from the pool. www.royalphuketcity.com

PHUKET Sino House e 0 z  1 Montree Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7623-2494–5 Fax 0-7622-1498 Rooms 57 Road Map B5 An excellent mid-range choice in Phuket town, this hotel has a modern building, but the decor and atmosphere are retro-Chinese, with antiques and traditional Chinese artworks throughout. It is stylish and comfortable with an on-site spa and attracts a long-staying clientele. The staff are helpful. www.sinohousephuket.com

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 307

PHUKET Sugar Palm Resort 0 S z  20/10 Kata Rd, Hat Kata 83100 Tel 0-7628-4404 Fax 0-7628-4438 Rooms 129 Road Map B5 This stylish resort with modern rooms in pastel shades, and a black-tiled swimming pool in the central courtyard is replete with designer touches and a youthful vibe. A perfect spot for the young urbanite on holiday, it is close to other shops and restaurants and the beach is only 10 minutes away. www.sugarpalmphuket.com

PHUKET Baan Krating Resort 0 S z  11/3 Moo 1, Wiset Rd, Ao Sane, Rawai, 83130 Tel 0-7628-8264 Fax 0-7638-8108 Rooms 65 Road Map B5 Managed by the reliable Thai Amari chain, this secluded boutique resort is located in a unique jungle setting in the steep hills above Ao Sane. The hotel has a nice bar and restaurant set on a peaceful private beach, a short walk away. Excellent food. www.amari.com

PHUKET Coral island Resort 0 S z  48/11 Rd, Ko Hai, Chalong 83130 Tel 0-7628-1060 Fax 0-7638-1957 Rooms 63 Road Map B5 An excellent alternative to the bustling beaches of Phuket, this resort is located on Ko Hai, a few miles from the town of Chalong. This resort offers great mid-priced bungalows, lovely beaches, and a large swimming pool which is also used for PADI certified dive courses. It is a good place for families. www.coralislandresort.com

PHUKET Amanpuri e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  118 Moo 3, Sri Santhorn Rd, Hat Pansea 83110 Tel 0-7632-4333 Fax 0-7632-4100 Rooms 70 Road Map B5 Amanpuri aptly reflects the tranquility and peace after which it is named. This luxurious pavilion and villa complex, nestled within coconut groves, overlooks a white sand beach. The infinity pools have spectacular sea views and the superb restaurants are very romantic at night. www.amanresorts.com

PHUKET Banyan Tree Resort 0 S ÷ å z ∫  33/37 Moo 4, Sri Soonthorn Rd 83110 Tel 0-7632-4374 Fax 0-7632-5556 Rooms 168 Road Map B5 Overlooking a lagoon, with an open lobby surrounded by water courts, this luxurious resort exudes serenity. The water theme continues throughout, from the pools to the lavish villas with private plunge pools and the special Spa Pool Villa, where a glass-encased bedroom appears to float on water. www.banyantree.com

PHUKET Diamond Cliff Resort & Spa 0 S ÷ z  284 Phra Barami Rd, Kalim, Patong 83150 Tel 0-7634-0501 Fax 0-7634-0507 Rooms 333 Road Map B5 While the architecture and the interiors look dated, this big resort keeps families and groups entertained with eight restaurants and cafés, themed nights, and myriad activities, including cooking classes, vegetable carving, batik painting, glass painting, and massages, as well as tennis and golf lessons. www.diamondcliff.com

PHUKET Evason Six Senses Spa Resort e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  100 Viset Rd, Moo 2, Hat Rawai 83100 Tel 0-7638-1010 Fax 0-7638-1018 Rooms 260 Road Map B5 Sprawled across a tropical garden, this eco-friendly resort has something for everyone, from pool suites for couples seeking privacy to family-sized villas, all of which are superbly appointed. There is a children’s pool and kids’ club if parents want to retreat to the sublime infinity pool for adults. www.sixsenses.com

PHUKET Honeymoon Island Phuket Resort 0 S z  100 Moo 7, Thambol Vichit, Ko Maiton 83110 Tel 0-7621-4954 Fax 0-7619-1117 Rooms 45 Road Map B5 This comfortable resort is set on a picturesque island 6 miles (10 km) from Phuket, and true to its name is a perfect romantic retreat with special honeymoon packages including kayaking, sailing, snorkeling, diving, as well a lovely private beach. www.honeymoonislandphuket.com

PHUKET Indigo Pearl 0 S ÷ z  Hat Nai Yang 83110 Tel 0-7632-7006 Fax 0-7632-7015 Rooms 277 Road Map B5 The striking design at this hotel evokes the area’s tin-mining history while incorporating recycled objects, found after the tsunami, and the owners’ family heirlooms into the decor. Although it is large, clever architecture and landscaping succeed in making it feel more intimate. The pools are stunning. www.indigo-pearl.com

PHUKET Laguna Beach Resort 0 S z  323 Sri Sunthorn Rd, Cherng Thalae 83110 Tel 0-7632-4353 Fax 0-7632-4174 Rooms 252 Road Map B5 Set around a tropical lagoon, this large resort is very comfortable. Rooms are spacious, with contemporary Thai decor and lagoon views. There are several alfresco eating places and an array of sports activities for the whole family, including a water park and a supervised kids’ club. www.lagunabeach-resort.com

PHUKET Le Meridien Phuket 0 S ÷ å ∫  29 Soi Karon Nui, Tambon Karon 83100 Tel 0-7637-0100 Fax 0-7634-0479 Rooms 470 Road Map B5 Located in a hidden cove between Hat Patong and Hat Karon, Le Meridien brings more than a touch of French panache to the party. Lots of physical activities including tennis, rock climbing, and swimming in the many pools. There is an exclusive spa and fine cuisine is served at its restaurants. www.lemeridien.com

PHUKET Manathai 0 S z  121 Sri Sunthorn Rd, Hat Surin 83000 Tel 0-7627-0900 Fax 0-7627-0911 Rooms 52 Road Map B5 This chic boutique resort features spacious, stylish rooms with contemporary teak furniture, Thai furnishings, Oriental antiques, and other amenities. Public spaces include a pool that is enchantingly lit at night, a lounge area that is wonderful for cocktails, and the superb Weaves restaurant. www.manathai.com 308 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

PHUKET Mom Tri’s Villa Royale 0 S ÷ z  12 Kata Noi Rd, Hat Kata Noi 83100 Tel 0-7633-3569 Fax 0-7633-3001 Rooms 28 Road Map B5 Mom is a Thai title reserved for nobility, and this hotel is named after its bon vivant owner, Mom Tri. He has established an oasis of good taste and luxury on a headland between Hat Kata Noi and Hat Kata Yai. All units are suites or free-standing villas. The food is famous throughout Phuket. www.villaroyalephuket

PHUKET Thara Patong Beach Resort 0 S ÷ z  81 Thaweewongse Rd, Patong 83150 Tel 0-7634-0135 Fax 0-7634-0446 Rooms 172 Road Map B5 The smart lobby and friendly staff gives way to an attractive resort with several restaurants, bars, and cafés, along with two swimming pools, Jacuzzis, tennis courts, and sauna facilities. There is a pool for kids and an excellent seafood restaurant. Special promotional packages offer good deals. www.tharapatong.com

PHUKET The Royal Phuket Yacht Club e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  23/3 Moo 1, Viset Road Rawai 83100 Tel 0-7638-0200–19 Fax 0-7638-0280 Rooms 110 Road Map B5 This lovely property was Phuket’s first luxury hotel and is now a part of the Puravarna group. No longer the most luxurious hotel, this nevertheless remains a fine place to stay. The nine-story building seems to float up the hillside at the northern end of Hat Nai Harn. Superb facilities and fine food. www.puravarna.com

RANONG AREA Ko Chang Resort ¤ 0  Ao Yai, Ko Chang 85000 Tel 08-1896-1839 Rooms 20 Road Map B3 These bungalows suit this quiet place well. This Ko Chang is not to be confused with the one on the eastern coast and is a much quieter counterpart. The resort fits in beautifully with the natural environment and is clean with a friendly and efficient staff. Splurge and get the biggest bungalow. www.kochangandaman.com

RANONG AREA Suta House Bungalows ¤ S z  Ruangrat Rd 85000 Tel 0-7783-2707–8 Rooms 20 Road Map B3 These free-standing bungalows are nothing fancy, but they are an excellent budget choice in Ranong. The bungalows are centrally located but set back from the road so it is quiet here. There is a good on-site restaurant, but even better ones are nearby at a walking distance. Not much English is spoken here.

RANONG AREA Vijit ¤ 0 z  Ko Phayam 85000 Tel 0-7783-4082 Rooms 30 Road Map B3 A long-standing locally owned bungalow operation on Ko Phayam, this place gets consistently good reviews for its cleanliness, efficiency, and good food. The mid-range accommodations are spacious and they now have two-bedroom units ideal for families. Fishing and snorkeling tours are available. www.kopayam-vijit.com

RANONG AREA Tinidee Hotel ¤ e 0 S ÷ å z  41/144 Tamuang Rd, Tambol Kao Nives 85000 Tel 0-7783-5240 Fax 0-7783-5238 Rooms 138 Road Map B3 This modern six-story building qualifies as Ranong’s most comfortable hotel. It is in the city center, near the market and has been recently refurbished under a new management. Mainly a business hotel, it is also good for a bit of recuperation after roughing it out on the islands. www.tinidee-ranong.com

LOWER ANDAMAN COAST

KO LANTA Sanctuary ¤ 0  186 Moo 2, Ao Phra-Ae 81150 Tel 08-1891-3055 Fax 0-7568-4508 Rooms 18 Road Map B5 Located at the southern end of Ao Phra-Ae, also known as Long Beach, these thatched bungalows are a good budget choice. There is a definite hippie vibe here. Vegetarian food with an emphasis on Indian cooking, and yoga classes are part of the scene. The nearby clubs can get a bit noisy for early sleepers.

KO LANTA Narima Bungalow Resort 0 z  98 Moo 5, Khlong Nin 81150 Tel 0-7566-2668 Fax 0-7566-2669 Rooms 32 Road Map B5 This designer bungalow resort and dive school is beautiful and sensitive to the environment. Its verandas and hammocks are positioned to take full advantage of the tropical garden and sea view. There is a good restaurant and jazz bar, but what really makes the resort special is the warmth of its owners. www.narima-lanta.com

KO LANTA Costa Lanta 0 S ÷ z  212 Moo 1, Saladan 81150 Tel 0-2325-0927 Fax 0-2325-0926 Rooms 22 Road Map B5 This sleek beach resort is rather unique with its contemporary and minimalist architecture and it attracts a hip young crowd. The open-sided polished concrete rooms are not for those who value privacy, but style-seekers love them. The large restaurant and bar has a relaxed ambience. www.costalantaresort.com

KO LANTA Kaw Kwang Beach Resort 0 z  16 Moo 1, Saladan, Ko Lanta Yai 81150 Tel 0-7568-4462 Fax 0-7568-4167 Rooms 43 Road Map B5 These little wooden cottages may not win any design awards, but there is a wide choice from standard rooms without a view to deluxe options with a sea vista. All are spacious, comfortable, and set in lush grounds, but highlights are the big, round swimming pool and lovely beachside location. www.lanta-kawkwangresort.com

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 309

KO LANTA Pimalai Resort & Spa 0 S ÷ z ∫  99 Moo 5, Hat Ba Kan Tiang 81150 Tel 0-7560-7999 Fax 0-7560-7998 Rooms 121 Road Map B5 This award-winning resort, with luxurious pavilion suites and villas, has superb cafés, bars, and restaurants, including the beachside Rak Talay, where guests can dine with their toes in the sand. There are two infinity pools, complimentary bicycles, watersports, island excursions, and sunset cruises. www.pimalai.com

KO LANTA Sri Lanta Resort 0 S ÷ å z ∫  111 Moo 6, Hat Khlong Nin 81150 Tel 0-7566-2688 Fax 0-7566-2687 Rooms 49 Road Map B5 This stunning boutique resort set in a large swathe of tropical hillside combines a chic sense of style with a rustic warmth rarely found in modern hotels. The black-tiled beachside swimming pool is enticing, the Sri Spa is sublime, and the beach bar and café are wonderfully relaxing. Service is excellent. www.srilanta.com

KO PHI PHI Ao Ton Ko Bungalows ¤ 0  Ao Ton Ko 81000 Tel 08-1731-9470 Rooms 32 Road Map B5 The beautiful, deserted beach with white sands and great snorkeling are the attractions here, and while these bungalows are basic, they do have decent-sized balconies with stunning beach and sea views. The friendly owner and staff, the good little restaurant and hillside bar with spectacular views add to its charm.

KO PHI PHI Phi Phi Natural Resort 0 z  Mu 8, Laem Thong 81000 Tel 0-7561-3010–11 Rooms 48 Road Map B5 This was the first set of bungalows on Hat Laem Thong and they have a pleasant and slightly rustic charm. Somehow a Thai elementary school operates amid the bungalows which are built at a distance from each other among large trees. The food and management are more than satisfactory. www.phiphinatural.com

KO PHI PHI Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort & Spa 0 S ÷ z ∫  49 Moo 8, Ao Nang 81000 Tel 0-7562-8900–09 Fax 0-7562-8955 Rooms 112 Road Map B5 Located on one of Thailand’s best beaches among lush vegetation and thick with coconut palms, this is as perfect as tropical resorts can get. There are plenty of accommodations from hillside pool villas to beachfront bungalows as well as restaurants, bars, swimming pools, watersports, and a PADI dive center. www.ppisland.com

KO PHI PHI Zeavola 0 S z  11 Moo 8, Laem Tong 81000 Tel 0-7562-7000 Fax 0-7562-7023 Rooms 48 Road Map B5 These charming teak villas with a rural Thai decor featuring tribal textiles are more suited to the Thai countryside than a plush beach resort, but the owner’s aim was to recreate a luxurious Thai village right on the beach. The place is an experience in itself. www.zeavola.com

KRABI Chan Cha Lay ¤ 0 z  55 Uttarakit Rd 81000 Tel 0-7562-0952 Rooms 12 Road Map B5 This is an excellent budget choice in the middle of Krabi town. Cheerful, bright, and clean rooms with a touch of Mediterranean decor and helpful staff make it a good place from which to organize further forays into Krabi. There is a clean café serving simple food and a little garden.

KRABI Ao Nang Village z  49/3 Mu 2, Ao Nang 81000 Tel 0-7563-7544 Rooms 28 Road Map B5 A locally owned and managed place with a nice green garden very close to the beach, these are a mixture of free-standing bungalows and rooms in a row, united by their extreme cleanliness and utter lack of stylishness. The idyllic quiet and family-run atmosphere is their biggest draw.

KRABI Phra Nang Inn 0 S  119 Moo 2, Ao Nang 81000 Tel 0-7563-7139 Fax 0-7563-7134 Rooms 38 Road Map B5 This resort is constructed from pine and coconut palm wood and has a charming rustic air with tropical gardens, whimsical decor, and mismatched furniture. The Phra Nang Inn oozes character and is also centrally located with great views over Ao Nang. It has a terrific restaurant, and a decent pool. www.vacationvillage.co.th

KRABI Sunrise Tropical Resort 0 S z  39 Moo 2, Ao Nang, Hat Rai Leh East 81000 Tel 0-7562-2599 Fax 0-7562-2597 Rooms 40 Road Map B5 An attractive resort set in a sumptuous garden on the less upscale Hat Rai Leh East, this place is a better deal than its neighbors. It is a quick walk to Rai Leh West and the even nicer Hat Tham Phra Nang. The teakwood villas are quite sumptuous, some with open-air showers and other nice touches. www.sunrisetropical.com

KRABI Krabi Resort 0 S z  232 Moo 2, Ao Nang 81000 Tel 0-7563-7030 Fax 0-7563-7051 Rooms 130 Road Map B5 This picturesque resort is better known for its range of activities that include excursions, canoeing, fishing, rock climbing, sailing, scuba diving, snorkeling, cycling, horseback riding, and elephant trekking, rather than its uninspiring if comfortable rooms and bungalows scattered throughout a lush garden. www.krabiresort.net

KRABI Peace Laguna Resort 0 S z  193 Moo 2, Ao Nang 81000 Tel 0-7563-7344-7 Fax 0-7563-7347 Rooms 149 Road Map B5 About a 5-minute walk to the beach and set against a backdrop of a limestone karst, Peace Laguna Resort, as its name suggests, comprises cottages constructed around a lagoon. There are three pools and the atmosphere is quieter and more family-oriented than the beachside resorts. www.peacelagunaresort.com 310 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

KRABI Krabi Sheraton 0 S ÷ z  Hat Khlong Muang 81000 Tel 0-7562-8000 Fax 0-7562-8028 Rooms 246 Road Map B5 The Krabi Sheraton is located on the upscale Hat Khlong Muang. Two swimming pools overlook the beach and the low-rise accommodations are set amid tropical gardens. Private speedboats take guests to the tiny offshore islands and a resident elephant make it a good family destination. www.starwoodhotels.com

KRABI Railei Beach Cub 0 S z  Hat Rai Leh West 81000 Tel 0-7562-2582 Fax 0-7562-2596 Rooms 24 Road Map B5 Ideal for families and groups, these traditional Thai teak houses are situated in a large private estate on a beautiful beach that is accessible only by boat. There are big verandas, gardens, and great views, and a clubhouse with rooms. Activities include diving, snorkeling, fishing, and bird-watching. www.raileibeachclub.com

KRABI Rayavadee 0 S ÷ å z ∫  214 Moo 2, Tambon Ao Nang 81000 Tel 0-7562-0740 Fax 0-7562-0630 Rooms 103 Road Map B5 This hotel spells indulgence right from the luxurious speedboat shuttle to its location on one of Thailand’s most stunning beaches. Its 2-story villas decorated with antiques, an excellent spa, two fine restaurants, an Asian crafts boutique, and exquisite attention to detail, make Rayavadee an exclusive retreat. www.rayavadee.com

SATUN Diamond Beach Bungalows ¤ 0  Pak Bara Tel 0-7478-3138 Rooms 12 Road Map C6 The village of Pak Bara is the departure point for boats to Tarutao and the other islands. Just north of the pier there is some basic but acceptable accommodations such as Diamond Beach Bungalow, the best of the lot with clean, fan- cooled rooms, a nice garden, and a beachside restaurant.

SATUN National Park Bungalows ¤  Ko Tarutao National Marine Park Tel 0-7478-1285 Rooms 16 Road Map C6 While these bungalows are quite basic, the beach setting is incredibly beautiful and it is a true delight for nature lovers. The resort facilities include toilets and showers, an information center, a mini-supermarket, and even a restaurant serving quality food and beer all day.

SATUN Pansand Resort ¤ 0 z  Ko Bulon Leh 91110 Tel 0-7521-8035 Fax 0-7521-1010 Rooms 26 Road Map C6 This place is reminiscent of Phuket of a bygone era. All free-standing units, these nice cottages are well maintained and clean. The staff is extremely helpful and the restaurant serves excellent food. Since Bulon Leh is the closest to the coast, it is the most visited, so book ahead. www.pansand-resort.com

SATUN Sinkiat Thani Hotel z  50 Burivanich Road 91000 Tel 0-7472-1056 Rooms 50 Road Map C6 This hotel is the best choice in Satun, right in the center of town, next door to On’s excellent restaurant and provision stores. A good place to prepare for a trip to the islands, or to wash the salt and sand off in a nice big bathtub after an active day. Some of the rooms offer great views over the town and surrounding countryside.

SATUN Castaway Resort 0 z  Sunrise Beach, Ko Lipe 91110 Tel 08-1170-7605 Rooms 20 Road Map C6 The resort lives up to its name with solid wooden bungalows in a rustic atmosphere on a remote island which is a three-hour boat trip from the mainland. Guests are rewarded with splendid isolation and a healthy environment. There is a dive shop with PADI instructors on-site and the food is great. www.castaway-resorts.com

TRANG Anantara Si Kao Resort 0 S ÷ z  Pak Meng Chang Lang Rd, Hat Chang Lang 92150 Tel 0-7520-5888 Fax 0-7520-5899 Rooms 144 Road Map C5 Trang’s limestone peaks, pristine sandy beaches, tropical forests, waterfalls, and caves see less foreign tourists and for many, that is the main attraction. The elegant design of the luxurious Anantara takes advantage of the spectacular surroundings, with sea-facing rooms and alfresco dining. www.sikao.anantara.com

TRANG Le Dugong Resort ¤ 0  15 Moo 5, Ko Libong 92110 Tel 08-7972-7228 Rooms 10 Road Map C5 These rustic but utterly charming bungalows built of coconut, bamboo, and wood are a refreshing change from the luxurious resorts. The main activity here is scuba diving, but it is also ideal for lazing around. The resort derives its name from the dugong, an enormous marine mammal that lives in the nearby waters. www.libongresort.com

TRANG Coco Cottage 0 S z  109/77 Moo 9, Thambol Koke-Lor 92000 Tel 0-7522-4387 Rooms 26 Road Map C5 This low-key eco-friendly resort on the lovely island of Ko Ngai makes for an ideal beach getaway. Travel around the tranquil car-free island by foot or boat. The thatched-roof log cottages are simply decorated, and there are “longhouses” for families. The Thai owners are very hospitable. www.coco-cottage.com

TRANG Ko Mook Charlie Beach Resort z  164 Ko Muk, Moo 2, Kantang 92000 Tel 0-7520-3281 Rooms 80 Road Map C5 The long-running Charlie Bungalows used to be the only place to stay overnight at Ko Muk or Mook for all the visitors who came to see the famous Emerald Cave on the island. The resort has now morphed into a larger setup, with basic to mid-range choices. Good food and local information is available. www.kohmook.com

Key to Price Guide see p290 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO STAY 311

TRANG Sukorn Beach Bungalows 0 S z  174 Moo 1, Ko Sukorn 92120 Tel 0-7520-7707 Rooms 20 Road Map C5 A very pleasant mid-range choice on one of Trang’s undeveloped islands where the traditional way of life is still more important than tourists. The bungalows are decent and the management can organize kayaking, mountain biking, or fishing trips for guests. www.sukorn-island-trang.com

TRANG Thumrin Thana Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z  69/8 Huayyod Rd 92000 Tel 0-7521-1211 Fax 0-7522-3288 Rooms 289 Road Map C5 This upscale hotel in central Trang town has plush, comfortable rooms with good views of the city and thoughtful extras that include complimentary soft drinks, daily newspapers, and free airport transfers. There is a good Japanese restaurant, bakery, and a popular pub and karaoke bar with VIP rooms. www.thumrin.co.th

TRANG Koh Mook Sivalai Beach Resort 0 S z  211/1 Moo 2, Ko Muk, Trang, 92110 Tel 0-7521-4685 Rooms 21 Road Map C5 These beautiful thatched-roof bungalows, nestled under coconut palms are within splashing distance of the sea. The glass doors of the rooms open on to the beach, with the water just a few steps away. Also available are a good restaurant, a big swimming pool, and a range of watersports. www.komooksivalai.com

DEEP SOUTH

HAT YAI Louise Guesthouse ¤ 0  21–23 Thamnoonvitti Rd 90110 Tel 0-7422-0966 Rooms 22 Road Map C5 Backpackers love this simple guesthouse, definitely the best deal in town. Staff is warm and friendly and can give reliable travel advice that is essential in this region. The hotel is close to transport connections and the bustling eating and shopping scene. While rooms may be spartan, they are well maintained and clean.

HAT YAI Regency Hotel e 0 S ÷ å z ∫  23 Prachatipat Rd 90220 Tel 0-7435-3333–47 Fax 0-7423-4102 Rooms 436 Road Map C5 A decent mid-range choice in downtown Hat Yai. There are two wings – the Regent and the fancier Royal with 28 floors and over 400 rooms. The great location and right pricing make up for the slightly laid-back attitude of the staff. Skip the over-priced restaurants. www.theregencyhatyai.com

HAT YAI Novotel Centara e 0 S ÷ å z  3 Sanehanusorn Rd 90110 Tel 0-7435-2222 Fax 0-7435-2223 Rooms 245 Road Map C5 Aimed at business travelers, Novotel Centara in the center of Hat Yai is very comfortable, with well-appointed rooms with Internet. Guests can also rent DVDs from the hotel’s collection. It is a rather stylish establishment with good restaurants, bars, and a fantastic rooftop swimming pool. www.centralhotelsresorts.com

NARATHIWAT Ao Manao Resort ¤  171/2 Tambon Kalong Nuea, Ao Manao 96000 Tel 0 7351 3640 Rooms 28 Road Map D6 Ao Manao or Lime Bay has a nice beach a few miles outside of Narathiwat. Earlier, this collection of decent bungalows within a walled compound used to be lively, but today there are few visitors. Still, it is fun to wander around the largely deserted beach and mix with the fisherfolk.

NARATHIWAT Imperial Narathiwat e 0 ÷ å z  228 Pichitbumrung Rd 96000 Tel 0-7351 5041–50 Fax 0-7351 5040 Rooms 117 Road Map D6 Part of the upscale Thai Imperial Hotels group, this property caters mainly to visiting businessmen and politicians. It is located in the city center and although, it is quite cheap, because of strained political conditions in the area which have reduced tourist footfall, the facilities are as per international standards. www.imperialhotels.com

PATTANI My Gardens Hotel ¤ 0 z  8/28 Charoenpradit Rd 94000 Tel 0-7333-1055–8 Rooms 135 Road Map D6 Located near the clock tower with several good restaurants in the vicinity and close to the long-distance bus station, this hotel has clean rooms, safe premises, and is quite reasonably priced. The restaurant serves quality food. However, this establishment lacks the gardens after which it is named.

PATTANI CS Pattani e 0 S å z  299 Moo 4, Nong Jik Rd 94000 Tel 0-7333-5093 Fax 0-7333-1620 Rooms 125 Road Map D6 Pattani’s prestigious address for visiting dignitaries is located a little outside of town. There are eight floors of modern convenience and comfort along with two pools, good restaurants, and friendly, well-trained staff who love to practice their English. The culinary specialty is birds’ nest soup.

SONGKHLA Rajamangala Pavilion Beach Resort e 0 S ÷ å z  1 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd 90000 Tel 0-7448-7222 Fax 0-7448-7353 Rooms 34 Road Map D5 Located on Ao Samila, a short drive outside downtown Songkhla, this tastefully appointed two-story resort hotel is not to be confused with the Pavilion Hotel which is not as nice. All the rooms have views of the Gulf of Thailand from their private balconies. www.pavilionhotels.com/rajaman 312 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT hailand is fortunate in his day, a wealth of imports being a land of plenty. from South America, thriving TMuch of the land is fer- in their new Oriental setting. tile and since the population The range of dishes, as well has always been small relative as the variety and freshness of to the size of the country, fam- the ingredients, make for one Sign for good ine has been all but unknown. quality restaurants of the world’s great cuisines. In the 13th century, King Thais love to eat – six or Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai, the first seven times a day is common. Apart Thai kingdom, recorded: “This land is from flavor and freshness, Thais also thriving … in the water are fish, in appreciate the harmonious pre- the fields there is rice”. He might also sentation of food. The dishes of even have mentioned the wide range of a modest meal will often be garnished tropical fruits, vegetables, and spices, with flowers and rosettes carved out to which have been added, since of colorful vegetables and fruit.

alike, they do not include expensive Western franchises except in some larger cities. Local coffee shops are still favored by older citizens, who prefer a strong, sweet coffee, filtered through a cotton bag. Served with con- densed milk, the coffee is excellent for dunking paton go, a traditional deep-fried Chinese breakfast doughnut.

ROADSIDE AND MARKET Staff preparing an elaborate buffet at an upscale hotel in Bangkok FOOD STANDS

RESTAURANTS often giving details of how Some of the best and most to get there, along with tele- reasonably priced food in Bangkok’s dining scene is one phone numbers. Away from Thailand can be found at any of the most cosmopolitan in the major tourist destinations, of the numerous roadside Southeast Asia. Italian and the main hotels in every town food stalls. Such establish- French cuisines have been will have air-conditioned res- ments are usually clean and part of the culinary landscape taurants offering a mixture of unpretentious and are often for long, but now diners can Thai and Chinese cuisine. mobile, allowing the propri- also enjoy Japanese restau- Thais have taken to Italian etors to push them home and rants, Mexican and Tex-Mex and Japanese food with enthu- clean them every night. The bars and grills, and Sunday siasm; the most popular ingredients are openly dis- brunches at upscale hotels, in imports are pasta and sushi, played behind glass panels. addition to traditional Thai found in some of the larger Fast cooking processes, such food. Most urban restaurants, towns. Pizzas are another as flash-frying, grilling over especially, those serving West- favorite, but Mc Donalds’s or ern food, open at about 11am Burger King outlets are rela- and close between 10pm and tively few and they have had midnight. This can mean that to introduce local dishes, finding a Western-style break- aimed at pleasing Thai palates, fast is difficult, in which case to attract Thai customers. a regular Thai omelette may have to serve as a substitute. COFFEE SHOPS Virtually every major city and resort in Thailand has at least Over the last decade, a new one free tourist listings maga- coffee culture has sprung up zine. They can be picked up across Thailand, with excellent, in hotel reception lobbies, at reasonably priced, and locally banks, money changers, and run coffee shops opening on restaurants. These list restau- every other street. Popular A beach bar and restaurant at rants by cuisine and specialty, with Thais and foreigners Hat Tha Nam, Ko Chang WHERE TO EAT 313

SEAFOOD

Thailand offers some of the best seafood and it does not come any fresher than in the kingdom’s coastal regions. Visitors can choose from an excellent range, absolutely fresh and generally on display. Everything from swordfish steak to lobster and giant crabs is available, but for conserva- tion reasons, turtle and turtle’s Fruits, popular with Thais and eggs are no longer on the a favorite snack menu. Visitors should also Bright neon signs announcing avoid eating shark’s fin soup. visitors should note a few various eateries in Pattaya rules. Thais eat with a fork TIPPING held in the left hand and a charcoal, or boiling are often spoon held in the right hand. used. So the fare, invariably Tipping was once unknown, The fork is usually used only fresh, should also be well but its popularity is increasing to push food onto the spoon; cooked and safe to eat. as Thais grow accustomed to eating straight from a fork is A sure way of measuring a tips from tourists. Visitors considered crude. Since food, stall’s popularity, as anywhere should avoid applying a per- especially meat, is cut into in the world, is by its patrons. centage: 10 percent of 50 baht pieces before it is cooked, If there are plenty of locals may be appropriate, but 10 knives are not needed. sitting at the simple tables most percent of an expensive meal Thai noodle dishes are stalls provide, chances are would be far too much. often strongly influenced by that the food is good. Visitors Chinese culinary traditions, should not be surprised to EATING HABITS and they are eaten using chop- find a businessman with a IN THAILAND sticks and a spoon. Another Mercedes parked nearby sitting exception to the general rule at the same stall as a tuk-tuk The Thai philosophy of is khao niaw (sticky rice), driver. Thais from all sections nutrition is simple – eat if which is eaten delicately of society know how to appre- hungry. Nothing should stand using the fingers. ciate good, cheap food. in the way. Most Thais, more- Food in Thailand is usually Menus are rarely in English, over, eat little but often, served communally in a series so it is a good idea to memo- sometimes snacking six or of large bowls. Only small rize the names of some of the seven times a day. The con- rice bowls are reserved for tastier dishes from the food cept of three meals simply individual use. Rice is tradi- glossary (see pp316–17). does not apply in Thailand. tionally served first, and then Alternatively, it is possible for Although people do indeed a spoon is used to ladle two visitors to point at a dish and eat breakfast, lunch, and or three spoonfuls from the ask to taste before ordering. dinner, they may also stop for communal bowls on top of a bowl of noodles, a fried the rice. Feel free to ask for PRICES snack, or a sweet at any time more if necessary. However, during the day. overloading the plate is regar- Buying meals is one of the Eating is a simple pleasure ded as uncouth since there is cheapest aspects of a visit to and does not involve complex no need to hurry, and always Thailand. Prices are usually rituals of etiquette, although plenty more in the kitchen. displayed – menus invariably list them next to each dish. The prices for shellfish are often given by weight. The cost of alcohol, however, can often be more than the meal itself. In larger establishments and hotels of international- class, a service charge and tax will usually be levied. These extra costs will be clearly detailed on the check. Even at establishments which are small, prices are usually fixed and marked on a board. Bargaining is limited to bulk purchases in local markets selling fresh food. Visitors enjoying a meal at one of the many street food stalls in Thailand 314 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

The Flavors of Thailand Thai food is famous for its aromatic and spicy qualities. Chili peppers were first imported to Thailand from the New World in the 16th century by European traders and were adopted into Thai cuisine with great enthu- siasm. However, mildly spiced dishes are also easily available. Although influences from China and India can be noticed in stir-fries and curries, Thai creativity has yielded a wide range of dishes unique to the country. The cuisine is full of distinctive flavors and complementary textures, nutritionally balanced and delightfully presented. Phrik nam pla

prefer khao niaw (sticky fry). This delicious mix of rice), which is eaten with the noodles fried with fresh or fingers, rolled into little balls, dried shrimp, egg, beancurd and dipped in sauces. Jok (tofu), and bean sprouts, (rice porridge) is a typical competes with tom yam breakfast dish, with egg, kung for the title of chilies, and rice vinegar. Thailand’s national dish. Kuaytiaw (rice noodles), bami (wheat and egg) or THE FOUR FLAVORS wun sen (mung beans), are usually served fried or in a All Thai dishes strike a soup. The most well-known balance between the four Thai noodle dish among flavors – sweet, sour, salty, foreigners is phad thai and hot – although the (which literally means Thai balance varies from dish to

A wide variety of fresh seafood Lemongrass Ginger Shallots Thai basil Galangal for sale at Chinatown in Bangkok Chilies lime Turmeric leaves RICE AND NOODLES

In common with all its Southeast Asian neighbors, the Thai diet is based on the staples of rice and noodles. The most popular type of rice is the long-grained khao hom mali (fragrant ), which is usually steamed. However, in the north and northeast, locals Selection of typical Thai herbs, spices, and flavorings

REGIONAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES Food in central Thailand has been strongly influenced by Chinese cuisine and these dishes feature on menus nationwide, including the country’s signature dish tom yam kung. Northern Thai cuisine takes much of its inspiration from Burma and the Yun- nan province in China. Examples include khao soi, a delicious dish of boiled and crispy noodles in a mild curry broth, and kaeng hang le. Northeastern Thais like their food with a kick, and one of their best- Pea eggplants known imports from nearby Laos is the (aubergines) tangy, crunchy som tam salad. Southern food Tom Yam Kung uses chili, is the most fiery of the lot, where creamy lemongrass, galangal, and coconut, turmeric, and sharp tamarind feature in typical kaffir lime to flavor this hot dishes as the spicy and sour kaeng leung pla. and sour shrimp broth. WHERE TO EAT 315

these dishes is intended to be toned down by eating them with rice. However, Thai restaurant staff are likely to serve all dishes ordered at the same time anyway. The only concession that Thais make to courses is with des- sert, which is usually a plate of mixed fruit intended to clear the palate after the savory dishes. Many foreign visitors also like to indulge in the national favorite – khao niaw mamuang (mango with sticky coconut rice).

Traders selling their fresh produce at one of Bangkok’s floating markets WHAT TO DRINK dish. While Thai cuisine is steamed vegetables, served Fruit juices Thailand’s wealth liberal with its use of chilies, with a big bowl of rice. The of luscious fruits, such as it also features a variety of meal is rarely divided into watermelon, mango, lychee, and papaya, are blended into subtly flavored dishes that formal courses. Westerners refreshing juices, shakes, and make use of different who do not realize this often smoothies. Coconut water, aromatic herbs and spices order a soup or a salad as drunk through a straw straight such as galangal, lemongrass, a starter although they are from the nut, is a perfect drink kaffir lime leaves, basil, and supposed to complement the for a hot day on the beach. coriander (cilantro) to main dish. The spiciness of Beers There is a good range enhance aroma and taste. of beers available. Popular Pastes using these ingredi- choices are the full-bodied ents are pounded in a mortar local Singha and Chang. to ensure the freshest flavor. However, the real key to Wines and spirits As well as Thai cuisine is nam pla (fish locally made rice wine, wines sauce), which adds its typical from Europe and the New World are widely available. piquancy to most dishes. Thai vineyards are also start- Mixed with chilies, garlic, and ing to produce acceptable lemon it becomes the popu- varieties. The local spirits, lar condiment phrik nam pla. Mekong and Sang Som, are very palatable when mixed THE THAI MEAL with ice and soda. Coffee and tea While not A typical Thai meal consists traditional Thai drinks, excel- of a soup, a curry, a stir-fry lent varieties of both are now and a spicy Thai salad, as Expertly carved melons in Thai grown in the northern hills. well as side dishes of raw or style for use as table decoration

Kaeng Hang Le, a dry, mild Som Tam is shredded unripe Kaeng Leung Pla is a spicy curry of pork with ginger, papaya and other vegetables, fish soup with bamboo shoots, peanuts, and garlic, served with lime juice, chili, fish flavored with tamarind, chili, with rice and Chinese greens. sauce, and dried shrimps. garlic, and palm sugar. 316 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

A Glossary of Typical Thai Dishes Thai cuisine is famously innovative and varied. Even street vendors delight in their culinary skills, and it is not uncommon to see food being encased in a banana leaf as delicately as if it were being gift wrapped. Such artful presentations and the sheer range of Khanom krok dishes can be bewildering for first timers (coconut pudding) as it may not even be obvious what is savory or sweet. This glossary covers typical dishes; phonetic guidance for food words is on page 382. CHOOSING DISHES If there is no menu, the dishes of the day will be on display. Restaurant menus in tourist If one does not recognize the Visitors enjoying a meal in an areas may include descriptions dish, pointing and saying ni open-air beach shack in Ko Chang in English, and sometimes arai mai (what is this?) should other languages. The Thai elicit a list of ingredients. vegetarians. Foreigners often names of dishes are often Vegetarians should find it ask phed mai? (is the dish derived from the main ele- easy to order mai ao nua spicy), or requesting mai ao ments – for instance, the dish (food without meat), but phet na (a non-spicy meal). translates liter- ought to be aware that fish To enliven any dish, diners ally as “rice”, “pork” and sauce is used in many dishes. can use the ubiquitous condi- “red”. Thus, the basic compo- Dairy products feature rarely ments of chilies in vinegar, nents of any dish can often in Thai cuisine, so chili flakes, sugar (for savory be worked out with only a vegans should not dishes), and fish sauce usually little knowledge of Thai. fare worse than placed on most tables.

SNACKS Khanom krok !6D"F KSU2uS Thais love to eat. Coconut pudding. Slivers of beef, pork, or chicken Almost every street corner mat grilled on a stick; served with has a selection of food !†TH2†DD1 peanut sauce and cucumber. stalls selling raw and Chicken satay Sticky rice served in Tua thod freshly cooked snacks. banana leaves. 3oH4N1 Bami mu daeng Kluay ping Roasted cashews or peanuts. 7SLDpoLDjV1$ G†HE8`w$ Egg noodles with red pork. Charcoal-grilled bananas. NOODLES Khai ping Look chin ping W!t8`w$ Gj '`w68`w$ Rice noodles come as sen yai Charcoal-roasted eggs. Meatballs with a chili sauce. (broad), sen lek (medium), Po pia tod and sen mi (thin). Bami are W tEtT$ 8NU8pdES egg noodles. Wun sen are Charcoal-grilled chicken. Deep-fried spring rolls. thin, transparent soy noodles. Khanom beuang Sai krok Bami nam !6DU7lwN$ WK† FN 7SLDpo6w Stuffed sweet pancakes. Thai beef or pork sausages. Egg noodles in a broth with vegetables, meat, or fish. Kuaytiaw haeng ‡HEU2pcEHVL†$ Rice noodles served dry with vegetables, meat, or fish. Kuaytiaw nam ‡HEU2pcEH6w Rice noodles in a broth with vegetables, meat, or fish. Kuaytiaw look chin pla Gj '`w68GT Fishballs with noodles. Phad thai 91W4E Rice noodles fried with egg, beancurd, dried shrimp, bean Vendor selling an array of snacks from his boat-cum-restaurant in Krabi sprouts, peanuts, and chili. WHERE TO EAT 317

RICE DISHES REGIONAL DISHES

Rice is the staple food. A Kaeng hang le familiar Thai greeting kin V $O$UG khao mai?, (how are you?) A northern delicacy, pork literally translates into “have curry with peanut, and ginger. you eaten rice?” Khao soi Khao man kai !†TH(NE !†THD6W t Chicken or beef curry served Chinese-style chicken with with wheat noodles, fresh rice cooked in chicken stock. lime, and pickled cabbage. A Khao mok kai An extensive selection of wines at Northern specialty. !†THLD W t the Shades restaurant in Ko Samui ped Thai-style chicken . GT7U8r1 Khao mu daeng Kaeng matsaman northern spicy minced duck. !†THLDjV1$ V $DKDo6 Som tam Chinese-style red pork served A mild curry from the Deep K†D2 on a bed of fragrant rice. South with chicken, peanuts, with Khao na ped potatoes, and coconut milk. peanuts, from the northeast. !†THL6†TU8r1 Kaeng Yam thalay Roast duck served on a bed V $VA6$ E4SUG of fragrant rice. Southern-style creamy curry Southern spicy seafood salad. Khao phad mu/kung with coconut milk and basil. !†TH91LDjLFlN †i$ Kaeng phed DESSERTS Fried rice with pork or shrimp. V $U9r1 A hot curry with red chilies, Known as khong wan or SOUPS lemongrass, and coriander. sweet things, these are mostly coconut or fruit based. Thai soups are very inventive. V $K†D Foy thong Some, such as jok, are eaten A hot and sour curry, usually @NE4N$ for breakfast. The word “sup” with fish. Sweet, shredded egg yolk. is widely recognized. Khao niaw mamuang Jok SEAFOOD !†THUL6pEHDSDtH$ Y%u Fresh mango served with Ground rice porridge with A wide variety of seafood is sticky rice and coconut milk. minced pork and ginger. available at reasonable prices, Kluay buat chi Khao tom particularly in the Deep South. G†HE7H1'p !†TH2†D Hoi malaeng pu op Bananas in coconut milk. Rice soup with a selection of LNEVDG$CtjN7 Mo kaeng meat and vegetable side dishes. Steamed green mussels. LD†NV $ Tom jeud tao hu Hoi thod Thai-style egg custard. 2†D%l1U2†TL†j LNE4N1 Mild broth with Oysters fried in DRINKS beancurd and an egg batter, minced pork. served on a bed Bia of bean sprouts. U7pEFq 2†D!tTW t Kung mangkon Beer. Usually served in bottles. Chicken soup with phao Cha ron galangal, coconut Southern style †i$D$ FU9T 'TF†N6 milk, and lemongrass. seafood platter Grilled lobster. Tea with condensed milk. Tom yam kung Pla meuk yang Kafae 2†DE †i$ 8GTLDa EtT$ TVB Shrimp, mushrooms, lemon- Roasted sliced squid. Coffee, often instant. grass, galangal, and coriander. Pla nung khing Nam cha 8GT6ao$!`$ 6w'T CURRIES Steamed fish with ginger, Chinese-style tea without milk. chili, and mushrooms. Nam kuad Curries are served either rat Pla thod 6w!H1 khao (on a plate of rice) or in 8GT4N1 Bottled water. a bowl as an accompaniment Crispy deep-fried fish which to a central bowl of rice. is combined and served with Kaeng kari kai various sauces. V $ SLFpoW t Pu neung Indian-style chicken and 8j6ao$ potato. Steamed crab which Kaeng khiaw wan is served with a A coconut V $U!pEHLHT6 pungent and seller at the Slightly sweet . spicy sauce. floating market 318 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES The following price ranges are the equivalent of an evening meal for one, These restaurants have been selected for their excellent made up of a range of dishes, including food, ambience, and location. On remote beaches and service, but not alcohol. islands, places offering good value have been suggested.  Under 150 baht  150–300 baht They are listed by region and then by price. Map  300–600 baht references refer either to the Bangkok Street Finder on  600–1,000 baht pp88–95, or to the road map on the inside back cover.  Above 1,000 baht

BANGKOK

CHINATOWN Punjab Sweets ¤ z ©   436/5 Chak Phet Rd, Phahurat 10200 Tel 08-1869-3815 City Map 6 D1 Vegetarian restaurants are few in Bangkok, but there are some tucked away in the Indian district of Phahurat, on the border of Chinatown. This small and basic restaurant serves authentic Indian cuisine, including dosa, puri, samosa, and Indian sweets. This is one of two Punjab Sweets outlets in the Chak Phet area.

CHINATOWN Roti Mataba ¤ z Δ ©   136 Pha Athit Rd, Chansasongkram 10220 Tel 0-2282-2119 City Map 1 C3 A small Thai-Muslim eatery, Roti Mataba is a favorite with travelers. An inexpensive place to enjoy a classic Indian/ Malay roti (a delicious fried flatbread) served with a small bowl of dal (lentil curry) or curry sauce as dip. This satisfying dish is traditionally served as a breakfast meal. The restaurant is open all day.

CHINATOWN Chote Chitr ¤  146 Prang Pu Thorn, Tanao Rd 10200 Tel 0-2221-4082 City Map 2 D5 A five-table clean, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, Chote Chitr prides itself for serving Thai food cooked as per ancient royal recipes using rare ingredients. The restaurant is a local favorite for its crispy noodle dishes but the gaeng som curry is equally famous. Those preferring something more exotic can ask for the chef’s recommendations.

CHINATOWN Hemlock z ©  56 Phra Athit Rd 10200 Tel 0-2282-7507 City Map 2 D3 A stylishly small, air-conditioned place, Hemlock is popular with Thai elite and artists who often host art and photography exhibitions here. The menu is extensive and includes some exotic delicacies. Try the – fresh piper leaves with pieces of lime, ginger, and shallot.

CHINATOWN Oh My Cod! z Δ   Rambuttri Village Inn, Soi Ram Buttri 10200 Tel 0-2282-6553 City Map 2 D3 A great place to try some of the best fish and chips east of London, as well as other British favorites such as sausages, beans, and fried bread. Located just a quick walk from Khao San Road, visitors can enjoy a meal indoors or in a pleasant quiet courtyard.

CHINATOWN Raan Jay Fai ¤  327 Maha Chai Rd 10200 Tel 0-2223-9384 City Map 2 E5 Located near Wat Saket in the Democracy Monument area, this is probably Bangkok’s most famous place for fried noodles, especially phad khii mao (drunkard’s noodles) – spicy rice noodles with chicken and basil. The ambience leaves something to be desired, but locals drive for miles to eat here.

CHINATOWN Deck by the River Δ © ˚  Arun Residence, 36–38 Soi Pratu Nok Yoong, Maharaj Rd 10200 Tel 0-2221-9158 City Map 6 B1 A neat little boutique hotel with great views of the famous Wat Arun across the river, this is an ideal place to visit, especially at sunset. The food is mainly traditional Thai, but prepared with great skill and using only the highest quality ingredients. The restaurant also serves a few Western dishes.

CHINATOWN Fisherman’s Seafood Restaurant ¤ z Δ ˚  1/12 Soi Mahathat, Maharaj Rd 10200 Tel 08-4457-8800 City Map 1 C5 Located on the banks of the Chao Phraya River with views of the Royal Palace, this well-known restaurant has been given a modern makeover and is one of the most enjoyable places to eat Thai and Western seafood. Try the grilled seafood satay and the steamed blue swimming crab with ginger sauce.

CHINATOWN Hua Seng Hong z ©   371–373 Yaowarat Rd 10200 Tel 0-2222-0635 City Map 6 F2 This is a classic Cantonese-style restaurant offering popular Chinese dishes. The quality of the food distinguishes it from similar places in the neighborhood – the cacophonous epicenter of Chinatown. Duck dishes and dim sum are sure winners. Service is efficient, not gracious.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 319

CHINATOWN Kai Yang Boran z  474–476 Tanao Rd, Banglamphu 10200 Tel 0-2622-2349 City Map 2 D3 Albeit a little expensive, this is an excellent place to try delicacies from Thailand’s northeastern Issan region. The place takes its name from the region’s signature dish, kai yang (marinated roast chicken, served with a variety of side dishes). Food is cooked in a hygienic environment.

DOWNTOWN Mrs Balbir’s ¤ z ©   155/18 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 10110 Tel 0-2651-0498 Located in an obscure corner next to the Swiss Park hotel, this unpretentious Punjabi restaurant serves good north Indian favorites. The owner, after whom the restaurant is named, is a local TV personality who takes Indian cooking classes and has worked with Thai Airways International, providing Indian food on flights.

DOWNTOWN Hai Somtam ¤ z ©  2/4–5 Convent Rd, Silom 10500 Tel 0-2631-0216 City Map 7 C4 An excellent place to try authentic aharn issan from northeastern Thailand. This unassuming, open-fronted restaurant is packed at lunchtime and early evenings with locals eating spicy somtam (green papaya salad), grilled chicken, sun-dried pork, sticky rice, and other Issan favorites.

DOWNTOWN Suda ¤ Δ ©  6–6/1 Sukhumvit Soi 14 10110 Tel 0-2229-4664 A favorite evening haunt of the expatriate community in the Sukhumvit area, Suda is an inexpensive restaurant serving delicious Thai cuisine. The open-sided dining room is conveniently located close to the Asoke Skytrain station. Popular menu choices include tuna with chilies and cashews, and green curry.

DOWNTOWN Taling Pling z © ˚  60 Pun Rd, Silom, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2234-4872 City Map 7 B4 A two-story restaurant in a converted family home, Taling Pling is located between Silom and Sathorn roads. Bright contemporary design and excellent Thai food. Many of the dishes are uncommon, the accompanying picture menu with lucid descriptions is useful. Also noted for an extensive dessert menu and superior wine list.

DOWNTOWN Biscotti z © ˚   Four Seasons Hotel, Ratchadamri Rd 10100 Tel 0-2251-6127 City Map 8 E1 Located in the upscale hotel, The Four Seasons (see p292), Biscotti is a stylish, but warm and friendly, Italian bistro with an open kitchen and well-polished wooden tables and floors. Instead of Italian haute cuisine, it serves a variety of pizzas and other favorites. Top quality ingredients, good service, and value.

DOWNTOWN Bua ¤ z © ˚  1/4 Convent Rd, Silom 10500 Tel 0-2237-6640 City Map 7 C4 The popular Bua is frequented by both locals and foreigners, drawn to its elaborate menu of delicious Thai dishes at reasonable prices. The food includes appetizers, salads, soups, and seafood from four of Thailand’s main regions. Dishes such as pla neung mannao (steamed seabass in lime juice) have made the restaurant popular.

DOWNTOWN Cabbages & Condoms ¤ z f Δ © ˚  6 Sukhumvit Soi 12 10110 Tel 0-2229-4610 Run by Thailand’s Population & Community Development Association (PDA), Cabbages & Condoms’ menu includes Thai classics, seafood, and other regional dishes. The profits from the restaurant support family planning and AIDS-prevention projects in Thailand.

DOWNTOWN Coyote Bar & Grill z f Δ © ˚   575–579 Sukhumvit Rd, Klong Toey Nua, Wattana 10110 Tel 0-2662-3838 City Map 7 C4 Voted as one of Bangkok’s best Mexican restaurants, Coyote Bar & Grill is a bright, cheerful restaurant and bar. It also has a sister outlet on Convent Road. Diners can enjoy quesadillas, burritos, enchiladas, and racks of pork ribs. Diners are spoilt for choice with more than 75 different types of margaritas.

DOWNTOWN Eat Me z ˚   1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, off Convent Rd, Silom 10500 Tel 0-2238-0931 City Map 8 F1 With a loft-style look appropriate for a venue that bills itself as a restaurant as well as an art gallery, Eat Me’s main attraction is its excellent food. Try the house specialty, yellow-fin tuna tartare with soba noodles or asparagus lasagne with New Zealand goat Camembert and Champagne bechamel.

DOWNTOWN Indus z Δ © ˚   71 Soi 26, Sukhumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2258-4900 This flagship restaurant of Kashmiri chef and food writer Sonya Sapru brings modern Indian cuisine to Bangkok. Light, simple dishes place emphasis on health, without sacrificing flavor. The dining room decor draws on northern India’s cultural heritage, with stunning results. A bar and café add to the restaurant’s ambience.

DOWNTOWN Le Dalat Indochine z © ˚   14 Soi 23, Sukhumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2661-7967 Run by Madame Doan-Hoa-Ly, the head of a respectable French-Vietnamese family, Le Dalat Indochine is renowned for the culinary blend of the owner’s two cultures. The restaurant’s signature dish, cua raeng mee (pan-fried crab with tamarind sauce, spring onion, and garlic), is a favorite. 320 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

DOWNTOWN Pandanus Bar and Bistro z Δ © ˚  50 Soi Nantha, Sathorn Soi 1 10120 Tel 0-2287-4021 City Map 8 E4 The decor of this cheerful bar bistro is as appealing as the food. The interior would not be out of place in downtown Manhattan. The emphasis is on Thai and Italian fusion cuisine. Sweet treats include banoffee chocolate ice cream and mud pie with peanut butter. For cool drinks, head upstairs to the stylish cocktail bar.

DOWNTOWN Silver Palace z © ˚   5 Soi Phiphat, (Soi 3) Silom Rd 10500 Tel 0-2235 5118-9 City Map 7 C4 Serving some of the best Chinese food in Bangkok, Silver Palace has stood next door to the huge Bangkok Bank tower for 20 years. Famous for its Peking duck, which is carved tableside, the restaurant is an excellent choice for lunch, with quality dim sum at resonable prices. Refined traditional decor.

DOWNTOWN Somboon Seafood z Δ ˚  169 Suriwong Rd, Bangrak 10500 Tel 0-2233-3104 City Map 7 B4 One of the best places to delve into an exotic array of squid, fish, clam, shrimp, crab, and lobster dishes, Somboon Seafood also serves classic dishes such as crab with curry powder, and stir-fried clams with roast chili paste. The restaurant is usually fully booked; dinner reservations are advised.

DOWNTOWN Tamarind Café z f Δ © ˚   27/1 Sukumvit Soi 20, Klong Toey 10110 Tel 0-2663-7421 City Map 3 A5 A vegetarian restaurant-cum-art gallery, Tamarind Café is also popular with non-vegetarians. The converted chic townhouse, complete with a rooftop garden is perfect for enjoying an eclectic vegetarian menu that features creative sushi, burritos, and cocktails. The on-site gallery, F-stop, hosts regular photography exhibitions.

DOWNTOWN Basil z © ˚  Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel, 250 Sukumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2649-8888 An excellent place for a contemporary Thai dining experience, this restaurant is located in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel (see p292). With a repertoire of more than 100 dishes, Basil has a well-deserved reputation for serving high-quality cuisine, in a sophisticated environment. À la carte and set menus available.

DOWNTOWN Bed Supper Club z ˚  26 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 11 10110 Tel 0-2651-3537 An upscale restaurant, Bed Supper Club is also a music club and art gallery. The decor resembles the interior of a spaceship and diners can enjoy the food while reclining on a divan suspended from the walls. The staff are dressed in sci-fi garb and the DJ plays foot-tapping numbers. The food is a good fusion of Thai dishes.

DOWNTOWN China House z ˙ © ˚   48 Oriental Avenue 10050 Tel 0-2659-9000 City Map 6 F5 Inspired by the Art Deco period of 1930s Shanghai, China House, at Mandarin Oriental (see p292), is an avant-garde restaurant serving classic cuisine with a contemporary twist. Guests can enjoy exquisite dishes such as roast Peking duck with traditional condiments and hand-pulled noodles with shredded abalone.

DOWNTOWN Cy’an ¤   Metropolitan Bangkok Hotel, 27 South Sathorn Rd 10120 Tel 0-2625-3388 City Map 8 D4 Offering a nice view of the pool at the Metropolitan Hotel in a chic minimalist atmosphere, Cy’an offers creative Mediterranean cuisine. Try the seared tuna slices with tender celery hearts and roast shallots and red wine sauce on a bed of mashed celery. Excellent dessert menu.

DOWNTOWN z © ˚   26 Sukhumvit Soi 20 10110 Tel 0-2258-1590 This upscale Japanese restaurant is a stunning addition to Bangkok’s increasingly eclectic dining scene. With branches in Los Angeles and New York and a contemporary interior, it attracts Bangkok’s glitterati, who come here for the sushi and sashimi presented with great flair.

DOWNTOWN Le Normandie z f Δ ˙ © ˚   48 Oriental Avenue 10500 Tel 0-2237-0041 City Map 6 F4 Said to be the finest French restaurant in Asia, Le Normandie offers an elegant setting in Mandarin Oriental’s Garden Wing. Impeccable service, an exceptional wine list, and à la carte seafood and meat dishes. Thai celebrities, politicos, and royalty often dine here. Try the breast of Bresse pigeon with foie gras.

DOWNTOWN Oam Thong ¤ z f Δ © ˚  7/4–5 Soi 33, Sukhumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2279-5958 Exquisite food and contemporary decor define Oam Thong. The ambience and traditional music make this restaurant an ideal choice for a romantic dinner or a special evening with friends. Try the coconut milk soup with chicken and galangal, wing bean salad with minced pork and shrimps, and sizzling seafood hot plate.

DOWNTOWN Reflexions z f © ˚   Le Meridien Plaza Athénée, 10 Wireless Rd 10030 Tel 0-2650-8800 City Map 8 E2 Located on the third floor of Le Meridien Plaza Athénée (see p292), Reflexions is a sophisticated restaurant offering delectable French fare. Chef Thibault Chiumenti’s cuisine won the place the Best French Restaurant award in 2007. Dishes are made using the finest seasonal ingredients and served with style and creativity.

Key to Price Guide see p318 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 321

DOWNTOWN Sala Rim Naam z f Δ ˙ © ˚  48 Oriental Avenue 10500 Tel 0-2659-9000 City Map 6 F5 The signature Thai restaurant of Mandarin Oriental, Sala Rim Naam’s lunch consists of a lavish buffet, while evening diners are treated to a set gourmet dinner menu and a performance of traditional Thai dance. The cuisine is complemented by a selection of Thai wines. An open-air pavilion overlooks the Chao Phraya River.

DOWNTOWN Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar Δ ˙ © ˚   The Banyan Tree, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd 10120 Tel 0-2679-1200 City Map 8 D4 Voted one of the best bars in the world, Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar is a fabulous open-air restaurant on the 60th floor of the Banyan Tree (see p291). The view is breathtaking and a meal or cocktail here is almost obligatory. Dishes include red mullet en papillote with thyme, and grilled scallops with coriander butter.

DUSIT Kaloang Home Kitchen Δ ©  2 Soi Wat Tevarakunchorn 10300 Tel 0-2281-9228 City Map 2 E2 Although a little hard to find, Kaloang Home Kitchen is worth a visit. Tucked away behind the National Library, this alfresco, riverside venue serves excellent and inexpensive Thai cuisine. Must-try dishes include the fried cotton fish with a green mango salad, seafood tom yam (spicy soup), and stir-fried crab with chili powder.

DUSIT May Kaidee’s Vegetarian Restaurant II ¤ z ©  33 Soi 1, Sam Sen Rd 10300 Tel 08-9137-3173 City Map 2 D3 With a considerable reputation among vegetarians, May Kaidee’s original branch is on Tanao Road. The eateries are quite prominent on the meat-free diner’s map. Spring rolls, green curry with tofu, and phad thai feature on the extensive menu. The chef gives cooking lessons and also runs a guesthouse.

DUSIT Tara Tara Thai z Δ © ˚  131/4 Kao Rd, Sam Sen Dusit 10300 Tel 0-2241-7900 City Map 2 E1 A riverside restaurant with an expansive terrace, diners can watch food being prepared over an open grill. The menu includes salads, curries, and stir-fries. Try the goong ob wuen sen (baked noodles with river prawns). A dining boat leaves every evening at 7:30pm for a 2-hour cruise on the Chao Phraya River. Excellent lunch buffet.

THONBURI The Rice Mill z f © ˚   Marriott Resort & Spa, 257 Charoen Nakhon Rd 10600 Tel 0-2476-0022 This authentic Cantonese restaurant serves a veritable feast of dim sum. Set in the heart of the luxurious Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa (see p293), the restaurant blends traditional decor with modern sophistication and the lilting tones of Chinese classical music – a perfect setting to enjoy unhurried dim sum delights.

THONBURI Prime z ˙ ˚   123 Charoen Nakhon Rd 10600 Tel 0-2442-2000 City Map 6 F5 Regarded as one of the best steakhouses in Bangkok, Prime serves the finest imported beef, fresh lobster, and oysters. Diners can watch salads being skillfully prepared at their tables. Fine wines accompany an excellent shellfish platter. A chic decor and sweeping river views add to the ambience of this upscale restaurant.

THONBURI Supatra River House z f Δ © ˚  266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd 10700 Tel 0-2411-0305 City Map 5 D1 With an enchanting view of Wat Arun lit up against the night sky, Supatra River House is perfect for a memorable Thai seafood dinner by the Chao Phraya River. Try the fried soft-shelled crab with garlic and pepper sauce or charcoal-grilled mixed seafood. Set menus are also available.

THONBURI Trader Vic’s z f Δ © ˚   Marriott Resort & Spa, 257 Charoen Nakhon Rd 10600 Tel 0-2476-0022 A Polynesian ambience, fine food, and cocktails on the riverside deck make Trader Vic’s a unique dining experience. The spectacular Sunday Mai Tai jazz brunch is a weekly highlight. The fabulous spread of international gourmet cuisine is one of the best in the city and provides excellent value at reasonable prices.

FARTHER AFIELD Hsien Jong Vegetarian Restaurant ¤ ©   1146/4–5 Thanon Chan 10120 Road Map C1 This inexpensive but cheerful Chinese vegetarian restaurant, with an open-fronted dining area, serves a wide variety of dishes. The menu is displayed on stainless-steel trays, and diners can simply point to what they want. It is easily accessible by taxi from the Skytrain station at Surasak.

FARTHER AFIELD Thip Samai ¤  313 Mahachai Rd, Samramrat, Phra Nakhon 10200 Tel 0-2221-6280 Road Map C1 Popular with locals as the best place in the city for phad thai, Thip Samai has been in business for 40 years. The restaurant serves seven different variations of the dish. Phad thai with egg and dry shrimp and phad thai song-krueng made with glass noodles, shrimp roe, prawn, egg, crab, cuttlefish, and mango are recommended.

FARTHER AFIELD La Villa z   131 Soi Sukhumvit 53 (Paidee-Madee), Sukumvit Rd, Wattana 10110 Tel 0-2712-9991 Road Map C1 With a reputation among discerning diners for beautifully executed classic Italian dishes, La Villa brings a touch of Italian chic to Bangkok. A bar, a family room, and two private rooms also feature in this delightful restaurant. Excellent selection of wines. 322 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

FARTHER AFIELD L’Opera z © ˚   53 Soi 39, Sukhumvit Rd, Wattana 10110 Tel 0-2258-5606 Road Map C1 One of Bangkok’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants, L’Opera has a warm, rustic atmosphere. The delicious cuisine makes it a favorite among the expatriate community. Try the thinly-sliced Chianina veal from Tuscany served with grilled vegetables, and the classic tiramisu for dessert. There is also a good wine list.

FARTHER AFIELD Pola Pola z © ˚  150/7 Soi 55, Sukhumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2381-3237 Road Map C1 A popular restaurant, Pola Pola serves authentic Thai and Italian dishes. The traditional thin-crust pizzas, baked in a brick oven, are a favorite with diners. Salads, pasta dishes, and special set menus are also available. Children can enjoy drawing with crayons on the white-paper tablecloths. Pola Pola has four branches in Bangkok.

FARTHER AFIELD Spring & Summer z © ˚  199 Soi Promsi 2, Soi 39, Sukhumvit Rd 10110 Tel 0-2392-2757 Road Map C1 A glamorous restaurant, Spring & Summer is owned by a Thai actor and housed in two buildings from the 1950s. The restaurant promotes a new culinary concept – Spring serves classic Thai dishes in a contemporary setting, while neighboring Summer is the perfect place to try out home-made cakes and desserts.

EASTERN SEABOARD

CHANTHABURI Chanthorn Pochana ¤ ©  Srijan Rd 22000 Tel 0-3931-2339 Road Map E2 A centrally located restaurant, Chanthorn Pochana has a tempting variety of curries, spicy , and delicious stir-fries on an extensive menu. Try the local specialty sen mi phad pu (egg noodles topped with delicious crab meat) – a sure winner.

CHANTHABURI Muen Baan ¤ ©  Saritdet Rd 22000 Road Map E2 An excellent restaurant providing a delectable array of home-cooked food, Muen Baan, which means just like home, serves a variety of options for vegetarians. The restaurant is conveniently located next to the bus station, and the owners are warm and friendly.

KO CHANG Invito Δ © ˚   Hat Sai Khao 23170 Tel 0-3955-1326 Road Map E2 Ideal for a romantic Italian dinner by candlelight, Invito is an old northern Thai house transported from Chiang Mai and rebuilt in its current location. The food is excellent – from pizzas to fine dining choices covering all regional cuisines of Italy. The restaurant also has a pleasant outdoor terrace.

KO CHANG Oodie’s Place ¤ f Δ ©  Hat Sai Khao 23170 Tel 08-1853-1271 Road Map E2 A lively restaurant on pretty Hat Sai Khao, Oodie’s Place is run by a local musician who entertains his guests by playing covers of rock classics most nights from around 10pm. Diners can choose from a reliable menu of Thai dishes as well as French specialties.

KO CHANG Paddy’s Palms f Δ  Hat Sai Khao 23170 Tel 0-3955-1095 Road Map E2 An Irish pub with bright green interiors, Paddy’s Palms is incongruous with the rest of Hat Sai Khao. The food however is authentic – shepherd’s pie and beer-marinated beef. Try the Sunday roast. The pub also has an attached guesthouse for visitors who would like to stay the night.

KO CHANG Sabay Bar z f Δ ©   Hat Sai Khao 23170 Road Map E2 For the past few years, this has been one of the most popular spots to spend an evening on Hat Sai Khao. Sabay Bar’s successful formula involves the choice between a fancy air-conditioned interior where a live band plays nightly, and alfresco dining with mats and cushions on the sand.

KO CHANG The Bay ¤ Δ ©  Ban Bang Bao Pier 23170 Road Map E2 One of several seafood restaurants located on the pier, in the picturesque fishing village of Bang Bao at the southern end of Ko Chang. The Bay has a sophisticated atmosphere and a good range of cocktails. The restaurant is popular with the diving crowd.

KO CHANG Tonsai ¤ Δ © ˚   Hat Sai Khao 23170 Tel 08-9895-7229 Road Map E2 A tree-house restaurant, Tonsai is set in and around a huge banyan tree. This is an ideal spot for an afternoon drink or evening dinner in Hat Sai Khao. The menu offers Thai as well as international cuisine and vegetarians can choose from variety of options.

Key to Price Guide see p318 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 323

KO SAMET Naga ¤ Δ ©  Ao Hin Khok 21160 Road Map D2 Started by an astute English woman, Naga (see p295) – a guesthouse and restaurant – serves simple fare, using fresh vegetables and baked goods from its famous bakery. The chefs still cook the food according to the high standards set by its founder. Stroll down to the beach bar after dinner.

KO SAMET Jeb’s ¤ Δ © ˚  Ao Hin Khok 21160 Tel 0-3864-4112 Road Map D2 Offering a wide variety of Thai, Western, Indian, and Mexican dishes, Jeb’s is an inviting place where diners can enjoy a perfect outdoor eating experience. As with most restaurants on Ko Samet, seafood is the most popular item on the menu. There is a wide a variety of cocktails to choose from.

KO SAMET Ploy Talay ¤ Δ ©  Hat Sai Kaew 21160 Road Map D2 One of the most popular beach bar and restaurants on Hat Sai Kaew, Ploy Talay sets out mats and cushions on the beach each evening for diners. The food is good, albeit a little overpriced. Diners can enjoy fire spinning shows or visit the equally popular disco.

KO SAMET Tub Tim Resort ¤ Δ © ˚  Ao Tub Tim 21160 Tel 0-3864-4025 Road Map D2 A beautiful resort with stunning views of the bay, Tub Tim Resort (see p296) has a beachside restaurant with tables and chairs placed right by the water. There is an extensive menu with excellent food. Try the hor mok talae (spicy souffle with seafood steamed in banana leaf).

KO SAMET Sea Breeze Restaurant ¤ Δ © ˚   Ao Prao Resort, Ao Phrao 21160 Tel 0-3864-4100 Road Map D2 Beautiful and stylish, Sea Breeze Restaurant occupies a breezy balcony shaded by a canopy of trees, in the Ao Prao Resort on the west coast of the island. Diners can choose from a selection of elegantly served Thai or international dishes. Good selection of wines.

KO SI CHANG Pan and David ¤ Δ © ˚   Mu 3, Makham Thaew Rd 20210 Tel 0-3821-6629 Road Map D1 Owned by an American-Thai couple, Pan and David is surprisingly sophisticated for Ko Si Chang, a relatively less-visited island. There is an impressive range of classic Thai specialties, pasta dishes, and steaks as well as a good spread of vegetarian dishes. Fine selection of wines and desserts.

PATTAYA Food Wave ¤ z ©  Top Floor, Royal Garden Plaza, Beach Rd 20260 Road Map D1 A crowded food court, Food Wave offers a wide variety of cuisines including Thai, Vietnamese, Indian, Japanese, and Western dishes at reasonable prices. Diners can eat the delicious food while enjoying an excellent view of the bay. Try the salads and Chinese duck with noodles.

PATTAYA Lobster Pot ¤ Δ ˚   228 Beach Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-6083 Road Map D1 An excellent place for seafood as well as authentic Thai cuisine and steaks, Lobster Pot is perched on the pier in South Pattaya. Diners are allowed to choose their own lobster, crab, or fish from an aquarium, which is then cooked to order. Try the lobster thermidor or grilled tiger prawns. Good selection of wines.

PATTAYA Ali Baba ¤ z Δ © ˚   1/13–14 Central Pattaya Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-9262 Road Map D1 Ideal for a taste of classic Indian food, Ali Baba serves typically North Indian fare, such as tandoori dishes and nan breads, in the indoor restaurant. The menu for the outdoor restaurant is from South India and focuses on specialties including spicy vegetable curries and dal.

PATTAYA Art Café z f Δ © ˚  285/3 Mu 5 Soi 16, Pattaya-Naklua Rd 20260 Tel 0-3836-7652 Road Map D1 Mediterranean cuisine is the main theme at this lovely restaurant, set in a Colonial-style house, which also displays and sells works of art. The Thai food is also delicious. Try signature dishes such as deboned frogs legs in herbs and white wine sauce, and salmon brochettes.

PATTAYA Mantra z Δ © ˚   Amari Orchid Resort, 240 Mu 5, Beach Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-9591 Road Map D1 Admirable architecture and elegant red and black decor, coupled with mouth-watering Asian and Mediterranean dishes, make Mantra an excellent restaurant. Try the piping-hot Sichuan seafood soup or the tandoori lamb chops and choose from an extensive list of 140 wines.

PATTAYA PIC Kitchen z f Δ © ˚  10 Soi 5, Second Rd 20260 Tel 0-3842-8387 Road Map D1 Authentic Thai food is served in a compound of traditional teak houses with low tables and floor cushions, making for a memorable dining experience. The restaurant also has a few private dining rooms, a jazz bar, and occasional performances of classical Thai dances. 324 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

PATTAYA The Grill House Δ © ˚  Rabbit Resort, Hat Dongtan, Jomtien 20260 Tel 0-3825-1730 Road Map D1 One of the most romantic restaurants in Jomtien, The Grill House serves a wide variety of Thai and Western dishes – a generous buffet breakfast as well as steaks and seafood skewers – from the charcoal beach grill, in the evening. For maximum effect, arrive just before sunset.

SRI RACHA Grand Seaside z Δ ©  Soi 18 Cherm Chop Hon 21500 Road Map D1 Located near the pier from where ferries leave for Ko Si Chang, Grand Seaside serves excellent seafood. Classy and elegant, diners can enjoy mesmerizing sea views and stylish decor while eating seafood rice clay pot or crab with chili. Wash it down with refreshing iced coffee.

SRI RACHA Chua Li ¤ z ©  46/22 Sukhumvit Rd 21500 Tel 0-3831-1244 Road Map D1 The small town of Sri Racha is famed for nam prik si racha (Sri Racha pepper sauce) and seafood restaurants. Those traveling between Bangkok and Pattaya should make a stop at this popular restaurant for a plate of lobster or grilled prawns, doused in the delicious local sauce.

TRAT Cool Corner ¤ ©  21–23 Thoncharoen Rd 24000 Road Map E2 Located in the middle of Trat town, Cool Corner is simply but tastefully furnished, and offers travelers’ favorites such as home-made bread and pancakes, in addition to tasty Thai curries. Diners can peruse books with travelers’ experiences and tips on places to visit in nearby Ko Chang.

UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST

CHA-AM Beachside Seafood Stands Δ ©  Ruamchit Rd 76120 Road Map C1 A favorite among locals, Cha-am’s simple beachside seafood stands sell some of the best fare from the surrounding sea. Freshly caught fish is sold raw and cooked to order. Unlike a night market, most stands consist of buckets of fish swimming in salt water and a wok to cook them in.

CHA-AM Da Vinci’s z Δ ˚   274/5 Ruamjit Rd 76000 Tel 0-3247-1871 Road Map C1 An excellent place to try European food in Cha-am, Da Vinci’s emphasis is on seafood. However, there are plenty of other choices. The chef is Swedish, as is much of the clientele, so the food may taste a bit different. Try the excellent Italian dishes.

CHA-AM Poom Restaurant z Δ  274/1 Ruamchit Rd 76120 Tel 0-3247-1036 Road Map C1 In the same area as the seafood stands, Poom offers a relatively more refined alternative – comfortable chairs and tables and even air-conditioning. It has a considerably wider menu as compared to the beachside stands, including various shellfish. A favorite with locals.

CHA-AM Rabiang-lay Δ ©  Verandah Resort & Spa, 737/12 Mung Talay Rd 76120 Tel 0-3270-9000 Road Map C1 A trendy, white, open-air sala (pavilion) right on the beach at Cha-am is the setting for this relaxed Thai fusion restaurant. The menu has a strong emphasis on seafood. Try the excellent, although seasonal, oysters, a delicious tom yam kung (spicy and sour shrimp soup), and stir-fried soft-shell crab.

CHUMPHON Khrua Pagsod z ©  10/32 Paradorn Rd 86000 Tel 0-7757-1731 Road Map C3 An ideal place for vegetarians, Khrua Pagsod (fresh vegetable kitchen), offers a wide variety of vegetarian choices including Western and Asian cuisines, made with farm-fresh vegetables. The food is excellent, and the ambience is chic and contemporary.

CHUMPHON Papa Seafood ¤ f Δ  188/181 Krom Luang Chumporn Rd 86000 Tel 0-7751-1972 Road Map C3 A standard indoor/outdoor seafood emporium, with the “choose from tank” option available. It is distinguished by the good service, attention to cleanliness, and vibrant atmosphere, including live music. Only open in the evenings. The adjacent disco, however, is not very alluring.

HUA HIN Chatchai Market ¤ Δ  Soi 72, between Phetkasem and Sa Song Roads 77100 Road Map C2 A vibrant, crowded market with dozens of fresh food stalls, Chatchai Market is ideal for a taste of inexpensive, yet delicious, Thai street food. The standard of cleanliness is high. Try the classic phad thai with fresh shrimps, hoi thot (fried ), a variety of noodle soups, and generous portions of fresh fish.

Key to Price Guide see p318 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 325

HUA HIN Chao Lay Seafood Δ ©  15 Naresdamri Rd 77100 Tel 0-3251-3436 Road Map C2 A large outdoor restaurant on a wooden pier, Chao Lay Seafood is a favorite with both visitors and locals. The proximity to the ocean is key to the focus of the menu – seafood. With ample seating and fresh food, it is a great place to enjoy some Thai specialties. Service can be a little disappointing.

HUA HIN Baan Itsara Δ  7 Napkehad Rd 77100 Tel 0-3251-4517 Road Map C2 Operating from a seaside bungalow a few miles north of Hua Hin, Baan Itsara, meaning “House of Freedom”, was once the home of a Thai artist. The atmosphere is quite casual and relaxed and although the food is standard Thai seafood, it is prepared with exceptional skill.

HUA HIN Monsoon z Δ ˚   62 Naresdamri Rd 77100 Tel 0-3253-1062 Road Map C2 A stylish interior with a Sino-Vietnamese ambience and a smooth lounge soundtrack greet diners at Monsoon. The restaurant offers an eclectic, refined cuisine of mainly Asian origin from the open kitchen. Try the delicious platter for starters and the duck breast with ginger sauce as the main course.

HUA HIN Som Moo Joom ¤ Δ  51/6 Dechanuchit Rd 77100 Road Map C2 There might not be any English signs directing visitors to this unassuming seafood eatery with indoor and outdoor seating, but the hunt is worth the effort. The seafood soup with noodles is a favorite, besides a wide variety of other seafood dishes. Overall, the food is inexpensive and fresh.

HUA HIN Take 5 z f Δ © ˚   121/20 Khao Takiab Rd 77110 Tel 0-3253-7249 Road Map C2 The only authentic Indian cuisine restaurant in Hua Hin, Take 5 has a relaxed atmosphere with tables scattered around an elegantly lit garden. Try spicy, classic Indian dishes such as a tandoor platter, mutton rogan josh, and hot tarka dal.

HUA HIN Coustiero Δ © ˚   AKA Resort, 152 Mu 7, Ban Nong Hiang 77100 Tel 0-3261-8900 Road Map C2 With a delightful setting, Coustiero is a charming restaurant with a refined, French-influenced menu. The china patterns are as pretty as the locale, and the flavors are fabulous. The menu is seasonal, but dishes involving foie gras, scallops, and seafood are excellent.

HUA HIN Hagi Δ © ˚   Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and Villas, 1 Damnoernkasem Rd 77100 Tel 0-3251-2021 Road Map C2 A stylish restaurant serving a varied and excellent selection of contemporary and traditional Japanese dishes, Hagi in the Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and Villas (see p299), presents food with an artistic flair. A 16-seater teppanyaki kitchen turns cooking into a memorable experience. Diners can watch their meal being cooked.

HUA HIN La Villa ˚   12/2 Poonsuk Rd 77110 Tel 0-3251-3435 Road Map C2 Voted the best Italian restaurant in Hua Hin by locals, La Villa’s chef Marco has been with the restaurant for almost 20 years, serving Italian classics. The restaurant makes its own pasta, and the house specialty is green lasagne. An extensive wine list and a good selection of home-made desserts.

HUA HIN Let’s Sea z Δ © ˚  83/155 Soi Talay 12, Khao Takiab 77100 Tel 0-3253-6888 Road Map C2 An alfresco restaurant, Let’s Sea places emphasis on delectable seafood and great sea views. The dishes are Thai, albeit with an international twist and work well with the setting. Try the fish cakes wrapped in mini-croutons and the lobster carpaccio.

HUA HIN McFarland House f Δ © ˚   Hyatt Regency Hua Hin, 91 Hua Hin Takiab Rd 77100 Tel 0-3252-1234 Road Map C2 Set within the secluded compound of the Barai Spa Villas at the Hyatt Regency, McFarland House is among the best casual restaurants in Hua Hin. Try the blue crab and corn cakes with chili and coriander salsa, shredded duck and cucumber rolls, succulent grilled Angus beef, and mushroom and zucchini skewers. Excellent Sunday lunches.

HUA HIN Museum Tea Corner z © ˚   Sofitel Centara Grand Resort & Villas, 1 Damnoenkasem Rd 77100 Tel 0-3251-2036 Road Map C2 With a classic setting, reminiscent of a bygone Colonial era, the Museum Tea Corner is one of the restaurants in the upscale Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and Villas. It offers an excellent selection of coffee and tea. Also on offer are tempting chocolate cakes and a delectable afternoon tea medley of sweet and savory delights.

HUA HIN Supatra By The Sea z Δ ©  122/63 Soi Muu Baan Takiab, Nong Gae 77100 Tel 0-3253-6561 Road Map C2 With one of the best settings in Hua Hin, Supatra By The Sea boasts pavilions offering panoramic sea views in front of a terraced tropical garden. The menu is a mix of contemporary and traditional Thai dishes, with emphasis on fresh seafood. Try the crab and minced pork and deep-fried fish. 326 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

HUA HIN White Lotus z © ˚   Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa, 33 Naresdamri Rd 77100 Tel 0-3253-8999 Road Map C2 The seating at this stylish restaurant at the top of the Hilton Resort is positioned to take advantage of the stunning views of the town and coastline. The menu focuses on contemporary Chinese dishes from the Sichuan and Guangdong provinces, with a couple of degustation menus. Excellent service and a decent wine list.

PHETCHABURI Rabiang Rim Nam ¤ ©   1 Shesrain Rd 76100 Road Map C1 Located in a guesthouse, Rabiang Rim Nam serves excellent food in a picturesque riverside garden. Although the guesthouse is not worth a visit and the restaurant is quite run-of-the-mill, it is a good place to have some excellent Thai food or a Western breakfast.

PHETCHABURI Ban Khanom Thai ¤ ©  130 Petchkasem Rd 76100 Tel 0-3242-8911 Road Map C1 Located in a town justifiably famous for its delicious Thai sweets, Ban Khanom Thai (House of Thai sweets) is an ideal place for those with a sweet tooth. Try the khanom mo kaeng (firm custard of mung bean, egg, coconut, and sugar). It is a market staple and goes wonderfully with the local coffee.

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN Pan Pochana ¤ Δ ˚  84/2–3 Salachep Rd 77000 Road Map C2 An exciting addition to sleepy Prachuap town, Pan Pochana is located south of the fishing pier. There is a nice, shady terrace, perfect for admiring the sea. Food is unpretentious, but excellent. A great place to try shellfish, which is much cheaper here than in other areas frequented by tourists, and probably fresher.

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN Phloen Samut Δ © ˚  44 Beach Rd 77000 Tel 0-3260-1866 Road Map C2 Perennially popular with both locals and visitors to Prachuap Khiri Khan, Phloen Samut is a good place to try the local specialty pla samli daet diaw (flash-fried, sun-dried cotton fish), served with a green mango salad. Other Thai dishes featuring seafood come highly recommended as well.

LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST

KO PHANGAN Om Ganesh ¤ Δ ©   Hat Rin 84280 Tel 0-7737-5123 Road Map C4 An excellent antidote to the hectic pace of partying on Hat Rin, Om Ganesh serves delicious, authentic Indian cuisine for those who can stomach the spices. Try the lassi (refreshing drink made with yogurt in water, salt, pepper, and ice), Indian vegetarian dishes, and chicken tandoori. Also a great breakfast venue.

KO PHANGAN Cucina Italiana ¤ Δ   Chalok Lam 84280 Road Map C4 An ideal setting for a mug of beer and a pizza, Cucina Italiana is located on the northern coast of Ko Phangan. Although the name overstates the variety of food on offer, the restaurant serves excellent pizza. Try the Italian chef’s home-made pasta dishes and fresh, grilled seafood.

KO PHANGAN Beach Club Bar & Grill Δ © ˚  Ban Pranburi, Hat Thong Nai Phan Noi 84280 Tel 0-7723-8599 Road Map C4 One of Ko Phangan’s most popular spots, Beach Club Bar & Grill is an excellent place for seafood grilled at live cooking stations. Diners can watch the skillful chef work the flames, as they sit at bamboo tables and chairs placed on the sand, within splashing distance of the sea. An ideal setting for a romantic dinner.

KO PHANGNAN Me’n’u z Δ ˚   Hin Kong 84280 Tel 08-9289-7133 Road Map C4 Serving immaculately prepared European food, Me’n’u is an ideal place for those who want to try something other than noodles and roasted chicken. Located on lush, tropical grounds on the west coast of Ko Phangan, the restaurant is open only in the evenings.

KO SAMUI Black Diamond ¤ Δ  Hat Lamai 84310 Tel 0-7742-4392 Road Map C4 Popular with the locals for serving authentic Thai food at reasonable prices, Black Diamond keeps diners entertained with a pool table. Otherwise a no-frills restaurant. The chef is from Bangkok, who makes standard central Thai dishes such as kaeng khiaw wan gai (green chicken curry).

KO SAMUI The Islander Restaurant ¤ Δ ©  Chawang Beach Road, Hat Chaweng 84320 Tel 0-7723-0836 Road Map C4 Both Thai and Western dishes are on offer at this budget eatery famous for its generous breakfasts and fish burgers. There is a kids’ menu, a few pool tables, and a TV which can be used to view the latest movies. Worth a visit for its reasonable prices and good Thai food, toned down for foreign palates.

Key to Price Guide see p318 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 327

KO SAMUI Billabong Surf Club ¤ Δ   Fisherman’s Village, Bo Phut 84320 Tel 0-7743-0144 Road Map C4 A friendly and inviting place with plenty of beer and generous portions of food. Famous for doorstop sandwiches, chip buttys, chimichangas, and nachos as beer snacks, as well as main courses such as BBQ ribs, lamb chops, Down Under Aussie burgers, 21 oz (600g) steaks, and authentic Indian curries.

KO SAMUI Elephant & Castle z Δ ©   Big Buddha Beach 84320 Road Map C4 An authentic London pub in Ko Samui, Elephant & Castle is popular with British expatriates. An ideal place for an afternoon or evening pint. On offer is sausage and mash, fish and chips, steak and kidney pies, and baked spuds among others. Famous throughout the island for its Sunday roasts. Good selection of vegetarian dishes.

KO SAMUI Shabash Δ ©   Chalee Bungalows, Big Buddha Beach 84320 Tel 0-7724-5035 Road Map C4 A Singaporean couple with Indian, Jewish, and Chinese roots and former residents of Indonesia, bring the most diverse culinary background on the island. A wide variety of Indian curries as well as plenty of Middle Eastern (even kosher) specialties made with fresh condiments and spices from the kitchen garden. Good vegetarian fare.

KO SAMUI Will Wait ¤ Δ  Hat Lamai 84310 Tel 0-7742-4263 Road Map C4 One of the original “we cook everything” venues in Ko Samui, Will Wait has branches across the island. Serves Thai, Chinese, Western, and Japanese fare, but neither the food nor the decor is inspired. The place is clean and the price right and they offer good home-made bread and pastries.

KO SAMUI La Brasserie z f Δ ˙ © ˚  Beachcomber Hotel, 3/5 Mu 2, Hat Chaweng 84320 Tel 0-7742-2041 Road Map C4 Offering a satisfying beachfront dining experience, La Brasserie is an excellent place to dine. The lapping waves are accompanied by separate Italian and Thai menus, as well as a wide variety of seafood such as king prawns and rock lobster. An ideal setting for a romantic dinner. Dinner reservations advised.

KO SAMUI Rimbang Seafood ¤  Baan Bang Makham, Na Thon 84140 Tel 0-7723-6047 Road Map C4 With great views of Ang Thong Marine National Park (see pp180–81), Rimbang Seafood is located off the beaten track in the northern part of the island. The local owner prides himself in cooking all dishes according to traditional recipes from Ko Samui.

KO SAMUI Rocky’s z Δ ˚  Rocky’s Resort, Hat Lamai 84310 Tel 0-7723-3020 Road Map C4 Located on the grounds of a boutique resort on Hat Lamai, Rocky’s is worth visiting for the excellent yet reasonably priced food. Delicious array of home-made pizzas, seafood, and authentic Thai food. There are several events such as cocktail evenings, beach barbecues, and Thai festivals.

KO SAMUI Tamarind f Δ © ˚  91/2–3 Mu 3, Hat Chaweng Noi 84320 Tel 0-7742-2011 Road Map C4 A harmonious confluence of East meets West, Tamarind is an elegant restaurant. The most popular item on the menu is the seafood basket for two, consisting of everything from rock lobster to snapper satay. Try the crispy- skinned snapper fillet with plantains and coconut curry sauce for the main course.

KO SAMUI The Three Monkeys ¤ Δ © ˚  Chawang Beach Road, Hat Chaweng 84320 Tel 0-7742-2584 Road Map C4 A bar-restaurant, with a classic Thai pub atmosphere, The Three Monkeys is ideal for a meal with the whole family. Children should try Mrs Crab (a crab burger) and Panda fried rice, while adults will enjoy the Mango Monkeys (marinated king prawns topped with mango sauce).

KO SAMUI The Cliff Bar & Grill z Δ ˚   On cliff between Hat Chaweng and Hat Lamai 84320 Tel 0-7741-4266 Road Map C4 Stylish but relaxed, this great bar and grill would be a standout even without the stunning views of the bay. The menu is Mediterranean, with dishes made with fresh produce and presented in an uncomplicated style. The seafood platter and steaks are outstanding. Great for a sundowner. Dinner reservations advised.

KO SAMUI The Five Islands Restaurant f Δ  Ban Taling Ngam 84120 Tel 0-7741-5359 Road Map C4 Located on the idyllic southwestern coast of the island, diners can arrive early and enjoy a boat cruise to some of the offshore islands before a cocktail. The food is Thai fusion, prepared to a high standard. Also good for lunch, which is followed by a Thai dance show.

KO SAMUI Budsaba Δ © ˚  Muang Kulaypan Hotel, 100 Mu 2, Hat Chaweng 84320 Tel 0-7723-0850 Road Map C4 The most intimate restaurant along busy Hat Chaweng, Budsaba consists of a contemporary dining room and 14 private salas, generously spaced for privacy. The royal Thai cuisine on offer is fittingly indulgent, and the traditional music and dancing on most nights add another dimension to the enchanting atmosphere. 328 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

KO SAMUI Chef Chom’s Δ © ˚  84 Mu 5, Hat Bophut 84320 Tel 0-7724-5480 Road Map C4 With breathtaking sea views, this spacious and airy restaurant is the perfect venue to try some spicy royal Thai cuisine. Dishes from central Thailand and delicate curries are exemplary. Try the tong sai thai salad with seafood. Live Thai music and dance on Fridays.

KO TAO La Matta ¤ ©   Pier Road, Mae Had 84280 Tel 0-7745-6517 Road Map C3 La Matta is the first and continues to be the best restaurant on an island, which has an impressive range of Italian eateries. The chef is Italian and makes the pasta on site. The gnocchi as well as the pizza are especially good. A new branch on Hat Sai Ri offers an excellent buffet.

KO TAO Ko Tao Cottage Δ © ˚  19/1 Chalok, Ao Khao 84280 Tel 0-7745-6133 Road Map C3 A favorite with repeat visitors to Ko Tao, Ko Tao Cottage is pleasantly isolated from the main center of activity at Ban Hat Sai Ri. The menu includes freshly caught seafood as well as Thai staples and a sprinkling of Western dishes – all served in a low-key setting.

NAKHON SI THAMMARAT Khrua Nakhon ¤ Δ  Bovorn Bazaar, Ratchadamnoen Rd 80200 Tel 0-7531-7197 Road Map C4 Set in the middle of a central courtyard, this restaurant is a great place to sample southern Thai curries. Try the curries from steaming pots or the stir-fried dishes cooked to order. Sampling platters are offered with a little of everything for those who cannot decide from the main menu.

SURAT THANI Ban Don Hotel Restaurant ¤ z  Thanon Namuang 84000 Tel 0-7727-2167 Road Map C4 An ideal place for visitors passing through Surat Thani on their way to the beaches of Ko Samui and Ko Tao, Ban Don Hotel Restaurant offers appetizing, clean, and inexpensive comfort food. A step-up from bus or train station eateries and excellent for those who have a few hours to while away.

SURAT THANI Suan Issan ¤ Δ ©  Off Donnok Road, 1 Damnern Kasem Rd 84000 Road Map C4 Set in an atmospheric, , Suan Issan is a good choice for visitors to Surat Thani. The menu features delicious northeastern specialties. Favorites include kai yang (spicy grilled chicken), which is a perfect accompaniment to som tam (tangy green papaya salad with peanuts).

UPPER ANDAMAN COAST

PHANG NGA BAY Cha-Leang ¤ Δ ©  Phetkasem Rd 82140 Tel 0-7641-3831 Road Map B5 A favorite with locals and passing businessmen who come to the restaurant during breaktimes, Cha-Leang is a simple place without the frills, but the seafood dishes are well prepared, although usually spicy. Try the hor mok thalay (spiced chunks of seafood mixed in a savory custard and steamed). Nice balcony seating.

PHANG NGA BAY Duang ¤ Δ ©  122 Phetkasem Rd 82140 Tel 0-7641-2216 Road Map B5 Both Chinese and southern Thai cuisine feature on this restaurant’s menu. The seafood is particularly good. Try the delicious, spicy dishes such as tom yam talay (spicy seafood soup), kung phao (grilled shrimp), the excellent dried shrimp and papaya salad, or a mouthwatering glass-noodle salad.

PHANG NGA COAST Stempfer Café ¤  Phetkasem Rd, Baan La On, Khao Lak 82190 Road Map B5 This long standing favorite serves an excellent German breakfast. It is also well known as a great place to buy mouthwatering cakes and other pastries. Good for sandwich lunches and beer. However, the Thai food is not as good as in some of the other restaurants.

PHANG NGA COAST Viking Steak House Δ  Phetkasem Rd, Baan La On, Khao Lak 82190 Tel 0-7642-0815 Road Map B5 A no-frills restaurant which offers great European and Thai food including pizzas at reasonable prices. Everything is clean and proper, with quick service, but without any pretensions. A good salad bar and daily specials. It gets busy, even rowdy, late in the evening.

PHUKET Pan Yaah Thai Restaurant ¤  249 Prabaramee Rd, Patong 83150 Tel 0-7634-4473 Road Map B5 Situated 1 mile (2 km) north of Patong, Pan Yaah Thai Restaurant combines excellent food with breathtaking sea views. The food is simple, nourishing fare of classic Thai seafood and noodle dishes, carefully prepared with fresh and fragrant local ingredients.

Key to Price Guide see p318 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 329

PHUKET Somjit Noodles ¤ ©  214/6 Phuket Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7625-6701 Road Map B5 A small, clean, and unassuming daytime noodle shop, Somjit Noodles has been around for almost 50 years. It offers an excellent range of Thai and Hokkien noodle dishes. This is a great place to try the island’s best-known dish nam ya Phuket (Chinese noodles in a curried fish sauce).

PHUKET Angus O’Tool’s z Δ   516/20 Patak Rd, Soi Islandia, Karon 83100 Tel 0-7639-8262 Road Map B5 A lively atmosphere, reasonable prices, and a choice of specials makes Angus O’Tool’s a favorite stopover for visitors to Phuket. It is best to call ahead and book for dinner during high season. Great Sunday roast. Known for the most generous breakfast spreads in Phuket.

PHUKET China Inn Café Δ © ˚  20 Thalang Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7635-8239 Road Map B5 Set up in a restored Sino-Portuguese building, China Inn Café resembles a tasteful, eclectic antique shop. The outdoor seating offers diners a relaxed ambience in which to peruse the exhaustive Thai and Western menus. The spring rolls and duck curry are particularly good. Good breakfast on offer.

PHUKET Ka Jok See z f ˚  26 Takua Pa Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7621-7903 Road Map B5 Hidden down a small soi in the center of Phuket town, Ka Jok See is a lively Thai restaurant, popular throughout Thailand. Besides a selection of Thai dishes prepared with a special flair, there is live music and dancing – an ideal place for a fun evening. Dinner reservations advised.

PHUKET Kampong Kata Hill Restaurant Δ ©  West Patak Rd, Kata 83100 Tel 0-7633-0103 Road Map B5 Built in a traditional Thai-style house, on top of a hill above Hat Kata, this restaurant offers great value. Consistently fine standard Thai dishes. The attached art gallery offers works by local artists and some reproductions of antique pieces are worth a look.

PHUKET Lair Lay Tong Δ ©  Soi Dr Wattana, Patong 83100 Tel 0-7634-1140 Road Map B5 Located at the end of a small soi, off Beach Road in Patong, this lively restaurant offers both Thai and international fare at reasonable prices. Seafood courses abound. Try the pae sa – a whole, steamed fish in a tangy broth with cabbage and other vegetables, served on a brazier.

PHUKET Lotus Restaruant ¤  31/13 Banyan Tree Beachfront, Bang Tao, Cherng Talay 83110 Tel 0-7636-2625-6 Road Map B5 A long-running beachside purveyor of fresh seafood, Lotus Restaurant predates the upscale hotels that now surround Phuket. Consider trying the Penang chicken, besides the fresh seafood. Tour groups visit the restaurant; dinner reservations are advised.

PHUKET Natural Restaurant ¤  66/5 Soi Phuthon, Bangkok Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7622-4287 Road Map B5 Situated in the heart of Phuket town, this garden/treehouse restaurant is full of hidden nooks and even little waterfalls – an ideal place to relax. The food, however, is quite straightforward with a selection of most world cuisines – Japanese, German, and Thai. All are reasonably priced and served with a smile.

PHUKET Red Onion ¤ Δ ©   Patak East Rd, Karon 83100 Road Map B5 Although the exterior and decor of Red Onion leave a lot to be desired, the standard Western food – chicken steak with fries, Wiener schnitzel – is clean and tasty. Thai food is also good, albeit simple fare. It has a local expatriate following, so arrive early during peak periods.

PHUKET Savoey Δ ˚  Patong 83100 Tel 0-7634-1171-4 Road Map B5 A reliable seafood emporium at the foot of Soi Bangla in Patong, Savoey offers a wide variety of fresh seafood. Despite a seating capacity of 400 and three operating kitchens, the service is quick and the prices quite reasonable. Diners sit in a casual, covered outdoor pavilion. Gets busy as the day progresses.

PHUKET Sawasdee Thai Cuisine © ˚  38 Katekwan Rd, Karon 83100 Tel 0-7633-0979 Road Map B5 One of the few places on Phuket’s beaches offering good Thai food at reasonable prices, Sawasdee has an agreeable atmosphere. Seafood dishes are more expensive, but the tom kha gai (spicy chicken soup) is a bargain. Located across the street from the guesthouse of the same name.

PHUKET Baluchi z ©   Horizon Beach Resort, Soi Kepsap, Patong 83100 Tel 0-7629-2526 Road Map B5 Often referred to as the best Indian restaurant in Phuket, there is no denying that the north Indian fare is excellent at Baluchi. The chefs are from the subcontinent, as is a good deal of the clientele. Located within the grounds of a nice boutique resort. Famous for the dal as well as the fixed menus. 330 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

PHUKET Hung Fat’s f Δ © ˚   Pravaramee Rd, Ao Kalim 83100 Tel 0-7629-0288 Road Map B5 Built in a unique oval shape with two floors, Hung Fat’s is located on the beachfront, just north of Patong. A retro-style Chinese restaurant, it offers Sichuan cuisine. The chefs from the mainland do great mapo dofu (spicy braised beancurd) and other favorites. A live band plays jazz and salsa numbers.

PHUKET Kan Eang II ¤  9/3 Chofa Road, Ao Chalong 83130 Tel 0-7638-1323 Road Map B5 Set in beautiful gardens with an adjacent sandy beach, Kan Eang II is a great place for children. Although the chain has been around for 30 years, Kan Eang II is better than its namesake at the pier in Chalong. The restaurant offers great food. The Vietnamese restaurant next door, belonging to the same chain, is also good.

PHUKET L’Orfeo z Δ ©   Ban Sai Yuan Rd, Rawai 83110 Tel 0-7628-8935 Road Map B5 A relaxed, casual restaurant and bar, L’Orfeo has an almost Arabian setting. The soundtrack spans several genres as does the international menu. The standouts are the home-made gnocchi with pine nuts and parsley butter sauce and the Angus beef tartare with tomato chutney. Dinner reservations advised.

PHUKET Salvatore’s z ˚   15 Rasada Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7622-5958 Road Map B5 Chef and owner Salvatore, originally from Sardinia, gave the restaurant his name. A popular place, Salvatore’s has relocated to a more sedate area downtown. Trattoria-style decor and cuisine done to perfection and competently served in a tasteful and laid-back atmosphere. Separate pizzeria next door.

PHUKET Taste Δ © ˚   Surin Beach Road 83110 Tel 0-7627-0090 Road Map B5 A new and chic beachfront venue south of Bang Tao, Taste is frequented by visitors staying in the upscale hotels and resorts nearby. Good value with Mediterranean fare and a pleasant ambience. Try the five-spice snapper, served with plenty of fresh vegetables. A wide selection of Thai desserts round off a good meal.

PHUKET Tatonka Δ © ˚   Sri Suthorn Rd, Bang Thao 83110 Tel 0-7632-4349 Road Map B5 Located just outside the grounds of the Laguna Beach Resort (see p307), Tatonka offers a “globetrotters’ cuisine” influenced by various countries from across the world. It offers several unique and mouthwatering creations, such as the sashimi spring rolls. Pleasant outdoor atmosphere.

PHUKET The Whispering Cock z Δ   Outside Laguna Resort, Bang Thao 83110 Tel 0-7625-6560 Road Map B5 Among the best English pubs on the island, The Whispering Cock offers authentic interiors, good steak and kidney pies, a wide choice of beers, and a pleasant beer garden, great for whiling away an afternoon. Darts and a regular showing of English sporting events complete the package.

PHUKET Baba Dining Lounge z Δ ˚   Sri Panwa Resort, Laem Panwa 83130 Tel 0-7637-1006 Road Map B5 Located on the grounds of the Sri Panwa resort on the southern tip of the island, Baba Dining Lounge is the dining area of a larger entertainment venue which also offers a chic nightclub. The name and decor come from the Chinese-Malay hybrid culture of the area, but the food is largely Western.

PHUKET Floyd’s Brasserie z f © ˚   Burasari Resort, Ruamjai Rd, Patong 83100 Tel 0-7629-2929 Road Map B5 Partially owned by late TV chef and cookbook author Keith Floyd, Mediterranean-style classical French fare is offered here. Try the signature dish tournedos rossini and the sea bass in butter lemon sauce, which is superb. Considered to be the best Sunday brunch venue in Patong. Elegant decor and a good selection of wine.

PHUKET La Gaetana z ˚   352 Phuket Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7625-0523 Road Map B5 An intimate Italian eatery in the downtown area, La Gaetana is known for its Italian version of haute cuisine such as a starter of mixed carpaccio of salmon, tuna, beef, and an especially tasty smoked duck breast. Try baked portobello mushroom in gorgonzola sauce for the main course. It also has a great wine list.

PHUKET Ratri Jazztaurant z f Δ ˙ © ˚  Patak Rd, Kata 83100 Tel 0-7633-3638 Road Map B5 A hip, two-story restaurant famous for its sunset views. In addition to an oyster bar, it features Thai and other Asian delights in the dining pavilion and cool jazz from the live band. Menu highlights are the sirloin salad and salmon sashimi for starters and gaeng masaman nuah or gai (beef or chicken Muslim curry).

PHUKET Sala Bua z f Δ © ˚  Impiana Phuket Cabana Resort & Spa, 41 Taweewong Rd, Hat Patong 83110 Tel 0-7634-0138 Road Map B5 A romantic and discreet beachfront pavilion is the setting for this award-winning restaurant. Filipino chef Ronnie Macuja is one of the best-known on the island, and his East-meets-West creations are inventive. Try the celebrated pan-seared New Zealand beef tenderloin, which comes with a surprising kiwi fruit relish.

Key to Price Guide see p318 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 331

PHUKET Watermark z f Δ © ˚  Phuket Boat Lagoon, Ao Sapam 83500 Tel 0-7623-9730 Road Map B5 Located on the grounds of the classy Phuket Boat Lagoon on the sedate east coast of the island, this award-winning contemporary and chic restaurant offers only classic dishes. The menu is international, with plenty of Thai food as well as pizzas and pastas.

PHUKET Baan Yin Dee z f Δ ˚   7 Muean Ngen Rd, Patong 83110 Tel 0-7629-4104-6 Road Map B5 Located just south of Patong on a hill overlooking the bay, Baan Yin Dee is on the grounds of a boutique resort. The atmosphere is elegant and opulent, as is the food – mainly high-end gourmet treats such as lobster and scallops cooked by a French chef. Book in advance to get a table with a good view.

PHUKET Black Ginger z ˚  Indigo Pearl, Hat Nai Yang 83110 Tel 0-7623-6550 Road Map B5 A good reason to visit the unique Indigo Pearl resort (see p307), which draws its design elements from Phuket’s tin-mining past, Black Ginger has a traditional Thai pavilion painted in black and built on stilts over a lake. Offers an elegant dining experience, with superb renditions of classic Thai dishes.

PHUKET La Trattoria z Δ ˚   Dusit Thani Laguna Resort, Bang Tao 83110 Tel 0-7632-4320 Road Map B5 Classic and elegant in its decor, La Trattoria offers several specialties prepared by Italian chefs. Try a fillet of sole and sea scallops with saffron sauce and green peppercorns. The Italian coffee cocktail Gennaro with Sambuca, rum bianco, coffee, and whipped cream is especially divine.

PHUKET Siam Indigo z Δ ˚  8 Phang Nga Rd, Phuket town 83000 Tel 0-7625-6697 Road Map B5 Housed in a historic building and decorated with original artworks, Siam Indigo offers an elegant yet relaxed atmosphere. The restaurant specializes in Thai-Chinese fusion dishes. Try the New Zealand lamb, green mussels, and marinated pork satay. The is also rather tasty. The interior courtyard is ideal for dining.

PHUKET Siam Supper Club z ©  Tinlay Place, Bang Tao 83110 Tel 0-7627-0936 Road Map B5 Just outside the gates of the Laguna Beach Resort, the Siam Supper Club offers a mainly Western menu of steaks and pastas as well as some Thai dishes. The atmosphere is informal but classy and the bar is quite popular with youngsters. A good family place. Kids will love the cheesecake.

PHUKET The Boathouse Wine & Grill Δ ˚  West Patak Rd, Kata 83100 Tel 0-7633-0015 Road Map B5 The first Phuket project of Thailand’s aristocratic hotelier and restaurateur Mom Tri, located on the grounds of his boutique resort. The food is Mediterranean and Thai with good service and an excellent selection of wines. There are other great Mom Tri restaurants in Phuket as well. Events taking place at the restaurant include cooking classes.

RANONG Thanon Ruangrat Market ¤ Δ  Ruangrat Rd, Ranong 85000 Road Map B3 At first glance, Thanon Ruangrat Market looks more like a produce market, but visitors will find some great food here. Food stalls with a few tables fight for space with some real restaurants. Good, fresh seafood. In the evening, another market appears on Kamlangsap Road.

RANONG Chaong Thong ¤ ©  8–10 Ruangrat Rd, Ranong 85000 Road Map B3 A good choice of both Thai and Chinese dishes, served promptly and in a clean environment. Caters to travelers with a varied selection of vegetarian dishes and herbal teas. Breakfast is quite delectable. Some of the staff members speak English and can help with travel tips.

RANONG Sophon’s Hideaway ¤ Δ  Ruangrat Rd, Ranong 85000 Tel 0-7783-2730 Road Map B3 The primary farang (European) hangout in Ranong, Sophon’s Hideaway is a good place to gather travel tips, including visa renewal trips to Burma. The food is good although not exceptional and includes a wide choice of both Western and Thai dishes. A beautiful garden and pool table complete the picture.

LOWER ANDAMAN COAST

KO LANTA Funky Fish ¤ Δ ©  Ao Phra-Ae 81150 Tel 08-1275-9501 Road Map B5 Probably the first restaurant/bungalow operation to spring up on Ao Phra-Ae, Funky Fish is famous for its great pizzas and good music. The Thai food is toned down to suit Western palates. Can get quite noisy and crowded especially in the evening. 332 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

KO LANTA Red Snapper Δ © ˚   Ao Phra-Ae 81150 Tel 0-7585-6965 Road Map B5 One of the better restaurants on Ao Phra-Ae, Red Snapper has a unique atmosphere. Set in a garden, the Dutch owners have done a good job on the menu and the decor. A great place for a pleasant afternoon or evening meal. Start with the tapas, then try the catch of the day. The restaurant also has an impressive wine list.

KO LANTA Time for Lime Cooking School ¤ Δ  Hat Klong Dao 81150 Tel 0-7568-4590 Road Map B5 Started as a cooking school which later evolved into a restaurant, Time for Lime Cooking School also offers bungalow accommodations. The Norwegian owner still trains Thais in the finer points of European cooking while her Thai staff teaches Thai cooking to visitors. Wide choice of culinary delights prepared by trained cooks.

KO LANTA Mango Bistro Δ  Ko Lanta Old Town 81150 Tel 0-7569-7181 Road Map B5 This Chinese-style house on stilts along the coastline was once an opium den, but today has been renovated into the Mango Bistro. An excellent restaurant with a small library, Mango Bistro offers a wide variety of Thai and European dishes. The owner also rents the charming fisherman’s houses nearby.

KO LANTA Sayang Beach Resort Δ ©  Ao Phra-Ae 81150 Tel 0-7568-4156 Road Map B5 Even visitors not staying at Sayang Beach Resort are regulars for lunch and dinner at its restaurant. Located on a headland at the north end of Ao Phra-Ae, the restaurant is noted for its chic ambience and wide choice of Thai and Indian food, prepared by a chef from the subcontinent.

KO PHI PHI Ciao Bella ¤ Δ ©  Ao Lo Dalam 81000 Tel 08-1894-1246 Road Map B5 A romantic beachside Italian restaurant on Ao Lo Dalam, Ciao Bella is very popular with Italian visitors. Pizzas and pastas are excellent, as is the grilled seafood. Some Thai dishes, including the fresh seafood, are also worth trying. Includes a nice selection of cocktails and pleasant music.

KO PHI PHI Madame Restaurant ¤ Δ ©  Ton Sai 81000 Road Map B5 A popular hangout in central Ton Sai, the main village in Ko Phi Phi, Madame Restaurant offers great Thai curries and good pizzas – all for a reasonable price and served with a smile. Try the tom yam, which is very good. There is also an excellent spread for the vegetarians to dig into. The evening movie always attracts a crowd.

KO PHI PHI HC Anderson z ˚   Ao Ton Sai 81000 Tel 08-6267-6628 Road Map B5 A Danish owned steakhouse, HC Anderson specializes in expensive, but delicious imported New Zealand beef and lamb. Mid-priced European food is also on offer, largely of the roasted meat variety. The restaurant offers good wines and has a lively atmosphere in the evenings.

KO PHI PHI Tacada Δ ˚  Zeavola Resort 81000 Tel 0-7562-7000 Road Map B5 Located on the grounds of the very luxurious Zeavola resort (see p309) at the northeast end of the island, Tacada is the place to head after a long, tiring day of sightseeing. An open-air venue on the beachside that offers both Thai and Western food, this is definitely one of the best places for a meal on Ko Phi Phi.

KRABI Ruan Pae ¤ Δ  Utarakit Rd 81000 Tel 0-7561-1956 Road Map B5 A well-known floating restaurant on the Krabi River, Ruan Pae is a good place for soaking up the beautiful surroundings over a chilled beer and good Thai food, especially around sunset. Visitors must beware of the mosquitoes. Try the house specialty – tom yam thalay (spicy seafood soup).

KRABI Baie Toey ¤  Khong Kha Rd 81000 Road Map B5 Located close to a nice park along the river in the center of town, this Thai restaurant is a favorite among locals who come here after work. A fine menu allows diners to experiment with their orders. Look for the booth seating downstairs by the river. Closes early.

KRABI Lavinia ¤ © ˚   Beach Rd, Ao Nang 81000 Road Map B5 The nicest place in Ao Nang for Italian food beyond pizza. There are also good sandwiches, made with dark grain bread, perfect for a mid-day snack. The restaurant makes its own ice cream and has a good selection of imported beers and wines. Picturesque location just across the beach.

KRABI May and Mark ¤   Maharat Rd, Soi 2 81000 Road Map B5 The best place in Krabi town for Western food, catering mainly to backpackers. Good food at reasonable prices. Great vegetarian selection including burgers and some Mexican dishes. Opens early and serves breakfast. Try the delicious fruit shakes.

Key to Price Guide see p318 Key to Symbols see back cover flap WHERE TO EAT 333

KRABI Rock Restaurant ¤ Δ ©  East Hat Rai Leh, Rai Leh 81000 Road Map B5 Perched on a steep hill, Rock Restaurant can only be reached by climbing up the hill, but the view is worth it. Located above Highland Resort, it serves good Thai as well as Western dishes at very reasonable prices. Visit during the day to enjoy the beautiful jungle-like setting.

KRABI Tanta ¤ Δ ©  Ao Nang Rd, Ao Nang 81000 Tel 0-7563-7118 Road Map B5 Located on Ao Nang’s main road, set back from the beachfront, Tanta is famous not only for the quality of food, but also for the wide-ranging menu, which covers everything from spicy Thai curries to grilled seafood, and Western dishes, including excellent pizza. The place has a fresh, contemporary feel.

KRABI Ruen Mai ¤ Δ ˚  Maharat Rd 81000 Tel 0-7563-1797 Road Map B5 Considered the best restaurant in Krabi town, Ruen Mai is set in a beautiful garden. The menu, which mainly offers seafood, also has a wide selection of Thai curries which are reputed for their careful and authentic preparation. Although more expensive than market food stalls, it is still cheaper than other places in Ao Nang.

SATUN On’s – The Living Room ¤ Δ ©  48 Burivanich Rd 91000 Road Map C6 A popular place with visitors to Satun, On’s offers Western food such as fish and chips, pizzas, and sandwiches. A good place to sit and read or gather local travel information. While the Thai food is pretty good, the Night Market two blocks north of the restaurant offers even better delights.

SATUN Time ¤  43 Satun Thani Rd 91000 Tel 0-7471-2286 Road Map C6 A step up in comfort from On’s, Time is air-conditioned, with an appealing decor and an efficient staff. Popular with Thai families for its cleanliness. The picture menu is extensive, covering everything from roast duck to banana blossom salad as well as some delightful desserts. A good place to experiment.

TRANG German Beer Bar ¤ Δ   Thanon Huay Yod 92000 Tel 08-7283-0454 Road Map C5 Despite its name, Beer Bar offers much more than beer. The German sausages and sauerkraut (finely chopped cabbage fermented in brine), although not elaborately presented, are excellent, as are the steaks and burgers. True to its name, the bar also has a wide choice of imported beers. Good place to gather useful travel tips.

TRANG Namui ¤ Δ ©  Rama VI Rd 92000 Road Map C5 An extensive menu and reasonable prices make this a local favorite. Namui focuses on Thai and Chinese seafood, but also offers great vegetarian fare. Try the pla krapong nueng manao (steamed sea bass in lemon broth). A great place for outdoor dining in a veranda located behind the main dining room.

DEEP SOUTH

HAT YAI Hua Lee ¤ ©   Nipat Uthit 3 Rd 90110 Road Map C5 Very popular with Hat Yai’s Chinese community, who head here for exotic delicacies such as bird’s nest soup and hu chalam (shark fin soup) which do not usually appeal to Western palates or cultural sensibilities. However, there are many other choices, including an inexpensive but delicious vegetarian fare. Open late into the night.

HAT YAI Sumatra ¤ ©   55/1 Ratthakan Rd 90110 Tel 0-7424-6459 Road Map C5 This modest eatery specializes in Malaysian cuisine with a distinctly Indonesian flavor. Try typical dishes such as the mee goreng (fried yellow noodles mixed with eggs and shrimp), (fried rice with eggs and flavored with shrimp), and rojak (a filling spicy salad with a peanut sauce).

NARATHIWAT Rim Nam Δ ©  Narathiwat Tak Bai Rd 96000 Tel 0-7351-1559 Road Map D6 A garden restaurant a few miles south of town, Rim Nam offers both central and southern Thai food. Seafood predominates, but there is a variety of other choices. Good food with friendly service, ideal for a fun evening with the family. It also offers free transport from a visitor’s hotel to the restaurant.

SONGKHLA Khao Noi Thai ¤  14/22 Vichianchom Rd 90000 Tel 0-7431-1805 Road Map D5 Only open until mid-afternoon, Khao Noi Thai is an unassuming place, very popular with locals for the curries which are of central and southern varieties. The rest of the menu includes Thai stir-fries. Very clean, the staff is efficient and serve with a smile, although their English skills are limited. 334 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS hailand is well known as a artifacts, and finely crafted silver country that offers good jewelry. Thai silk has an interna- Tshopping. The high quality, tional reputation and comes in a wide variety, and low prices of variety of designs. The country is many Thai goods are a major attrac- renowned for its rich supply of tion. Arts and crafts are probably gems, and towns such as Bronze carved the most tempting buys. These Buddha head Chanthaburi are major gem range from inexpensive wicker trading centers. With shopping rice steamers to valuable antiques, and malls sharing space alongside vibrant include many typically Thai items such markets, Thailand offers shoppers a mix as triangular cushions, colorful hill-tribe of the traditional and contemporary.

OPENING HOURS widely accepted credit cards followed by American Most small stores open from Express. Upscale places about 8am to 8pm or 9pm, usually take all major cards. while department stores, shop- Many shops will add a sur- ping malls, and tourist shops charge of up to 5 percent on open from 10:30am until 9pm payment by credit card. or 10pm. Business days are normally Monday to Saturday, RIGHTS AND REFUNDS but most shops in Bangkok, tourist areas, and resorts also Visitors should ask for a bai open on Sundays and public set (receipt) with the shop’s holidays. During the Thai address and tax number when Swanky interiors of the popular New Year (see p34) and the buying costly items. Shops Siam Paragon in Bangkok Chinese New Year (see p37), usually fill out a form for vis- many shops shut for several itors who wish to reclaim the endless discount sales. days. Market hours are usually 7 percent sales tax. This form However, the Thai love of dawn to mid-afternoon for must be presented to customs bargaining means visitors can fresh produce, and late after- at the airport. If arranging to often negotiate at small shops, noon to midnight, or even have goods shipped home, specialty retailers, and market later, for tourist souvenirs. visitors must ensure that they stands. Visitors should be confirm all the costs involved aware of the going rate for HOW TO PAY with the supplier in advance. items so as not to offer embar- Refunds are almost unheard rassingly low sums. Learning The , linked to the of, but exchange of faulty or the Thai for numbers may US dollar, is relatively stable. poorly fitting non-sale goods restrain the vendor’s initial The baht will always be accep- from reputable stores should bid. Faking disinterest if the ted throughout the country. be possible. seller’s bids remain high also Credit cards can be used in works and is better than many stores in Bangkok as BARGAINING enthusiastically bargaining well as in island resorts, and and then deciding not to buy increasingly so in provincial The trend in cities, especially once the vendor agrees. towns such as Songkhla. VISA Bangkok, is toward chain and MasterCard are the most stores with fixed prices and DEPARTMENT STORES AND MALLS

International-style department stores are the mainstay of shopping in Bangkok and larger resorts such as Pattaya and Phuket. However, many stores fill their aisles with bar- gain stands. The main Thai chains are Robinson’s, with a branch – Robinson’s Ocean Department Store – in Phuket, and the more upscale Central Stalls selling a variety of items at a busy street market in Bangkok Department Store. Residents SHOPPING IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 335

jasmine rings, while others are good for souvenirs. Pattaya and Patong in Phuket have many such stands. They are also seen on Silom and Sukhumvit roads in Bangkok.

THAI SILK

The ancient art of Thai silk- weaving was revived by an American, Jim Thompson (see p77) after World War II and is Asia Books, one of the most now a booming export busi- popular bookstores in Thailand ness. Silk can be patterned, plain, or in the subtle mut mee A dazzling selection of swatches of of Bangkok already have style made from dyed thread. colorful Thai silk countless downtown malls, This heavy, bright, and slightly such as Peninsula Plaza, to rough cloth is now used for copied, often with great skill, choose from, as well as lux- ties, dresses, shirts, skirts, and from magazines or catalogues ury shopping complexes such other Western outfits. It also of famous brands such as as Emporium, CentralWorld makes excellent cushion cov- Armani and Hugo Boss. The Plaza, and Siam Paragon. But ers, hangings, as well as quality of workmanship can the trend is for big, new malls sundry ornaments. vary considerably; so make out of the center of the city – Most silk comes from the sure to ask around for such as . north and northeast, but some recommendations. Two of the world’s five is woven in and around Other popular items of Thai biggest shopping malls are in Bangkok. Surawong Road in clothing include baggy fisher- outer Bangkok. Bangkok is a reliable place man’s pants, batik sarongs, on Srinakharin Road, south- from where such items can be (especially in the Deep South) east of the city, extends for bought. Jim Thompson, and and vests and trousers made over 1 mile (2 km). A few Shinawatra on Sukhumvit from hill-tribe silk, and other modern malls are also coming Road, however, are among northeastern fabrics. up in other large towns and the best. Jim Thompson also resorts. These include the has outlets in Hua Hin, Ko ARTS AND CRAFTS Jungceylon Shopping Complex Samui, Pattaya, and Phuket. in Phuket and Mike Shopping Although most Thai handicrafts Mall in Pattaya. CLOTHES are produced in the north and northeast, these are available ENGLISH LANGUAGE Thai tailors can make suits in Bangkok and throughout BOOKSTORES and dresses to order for low the coastal regions, albeit at prices. It is advisable to assess slightly higher prices. Thailand has three English the designs, fabric, and cut High-quality ethnic crafts at language book and magazine beforehand and insist on a fixed prices are available from chains: Asia Books, which has couple of intermediate fittings. boutiques in upscale hotels – several branches in Bangkok, In Bangkok, Chinese and Silom Village, River City Kinokuniya, and Bookazine Indian tailors advertise in Complex, and the less expen- also with several branches in tourist magazines and outside sive Narayana Phand in the country. DK Book House their shops along Sukhumvit, Bangkok. In the south, Phuket in Seacon Square is Southeast Charoen Krung, and Khao Orchid Garden and Thai Village Asia’s largest bookstore. San roads. Designs are usually in Phuket town is a good bet. Second-hand books are widely available in Pattaya, Ko Samui, HILL-TRIBE ARTIFACTS and Phuket. The costumes and artifacts of MARKETS AND the hill tribes make fascinating STREET VENDORS souvenirs. Items might include Akha coin headdresses, Lahu There is a market at the heart geometric blankets and cush- of every Thai town and even ion covers, Hmong red-ruffled the smallest will offer a good black jackets, and brightly range of fresh produce. Larger colored Lisu tunics. markets sell everything – local A wide range of hill-tribe crafts, fruits, vegetables, and souvenirs and clothing is on household items. sale at markets and in arcades Mobile roadside stands are throughout the south, espe- also found across the country. An array of wooden and bronze cially in the markets of Some sell items such as carved items at a local shop Bangkok and Phuket. 336 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

CERAMICS The main sources in Bangkok are , Delicate Benjarong pottery River City Complex, Chatuchak used to be made in China Market, and Nakorn Kasem. and sent to Thailand to be Antique auctions are held at decorated with intricate floral River City Complex on the patterns using five colors. first Saturday of each month. Today, the work is done Recommended shops entirely in Thailand. Visitors include The Fine Arts and can buy dinner services in NeOld in Bangkok. Chan’s Benjarong in myriad designs, Antique House in Phuket has including the more typical an excellent reputation. spherical pots. In Bangkok, Colorful puppets, inspired by the Export permits are required Chatuchak Market is cheaper Ramakien, for sale in Bangkok for antiques and all Buddha and offers a wider choice images from the Fine Arts than the downtown shops. gongs, and drums make Department, via the National The heavier celadon pottery impressive souvenirs. They Museum, and take at least a style is distinguished by its are available at Silom Village, week to obtain. etched designs under a thick, Narayana Phand, Chatuchak, translucent green, brown, or and Nakorn Kasem markets in JEWELRY blue glaze with a cracked pat- Bangkok as well as in the ina. It is available in Bangkok local markets of Ko Samui Thai jewelry tends to be large at Thai Celadon House as well and Phuket. These places are and expressive, often with as in many other craft shops also good sources of classic superb detailing. Necklaces, such as those on Silom and khon masks, hun krabok bracelets, earrings, and Lao- Charoen Krung roads. puppets, nang talung, and style belts are typical in nang yai shadow puppets. employing silver thread and LACQUERWARE In the south, these can be filigree detail, often incorpo- bought from the Shadow rating silver beads and large, Lacquerware usually has floral, Puppet Theater. Guided tours plate-like pendants. More flame, or portrait designs in also show visitors how these affordable modern costume black and gold on bamboo intricate puppets are made. jewelry sells well in Siam and wood. More common is Square and Chatuchak Market. the Burmese style of red ocher ANTIQUES Some of Thailand’s best jew- on bamboo and rattan with elry is found in Peninsula pictorial scenes or floral pat- The delicacy and charm of Plaza as well as hotels such as terns. Traditional items include Thai antiques are so appeal- the Dusit Thani. Some shops, boxes for food and jewelry ing to shoppers that the few notably Uthai’s Gems, will and are available in Bangkok remaining antiques in the also custom design jewelry. as well as in Phuket. country are either very expen- Astral Gemstone Talisman also sive, fake, or illegally obtained. sells pendants and rings NIELLOWARE AND Thailand is, in fact, one of the customized according to the PEWTERWARE principal outlets for antiques buyer’s zodiac sign. from all over Southeast Asia. Nielloware, the intricate Some shops resemble muse- GEMS process of silver (or at times ums, with tapestries, statues, gold) inlay in a black metal cabinets, puppets, lacquer- Bangkok is possibly the amalgam, makes for beautiful ware, and temple artifacts. world’s biggest gem-trading items such as cufflinks, center. Local stones include pill boxes, and jewelry. rubies, red and blue spinels, Some of the finest items orange and white zircons, and are from Nakhon. yellow and blue sapphires. Southern Thailand has Markets also operate around significant tin deposits, Chanthaburi where gems are so pewterware is a cheaper than in Bangkok. major craft there. Phuket is Thailand’s only Typical items include good source of high quality vases, tankards, plates, pearls; Mook Phuket sells and jewelry boxes. very good examples. The Asian Institute of MASKS, PUPPETS, Gemological Sciences is a spe- AND MUSICAL cialized institute that helps in INSTRUMENTS the grading and identification of gems. It also runs short-term Musical instruments courses on gem recognition including khaens and grading. These can help (northeastern pan in preventing buyers from pipes), piphat ensemble Attractive display of fine ceramic products buying fake products. SHOPPING IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 337

DIRECTORY

DEPARTMENT Siam Paragon Centara Grand Samui ANTIQUES STORES AND Rama I Rd, Bangkok. Beach Resort, Chan’s Antique MALLS City Map 7 C1. 38/2 Moo 3 Borpud, House Tel 0-2658-1000. Hat Chaweng, Central Department Ko Samui. 99/42 Moo 5, Chalermkiat Store www.siamparagon.co.th Tel 0-7723-0521. R9 Rd, Tambon Rasada, Silom Complex, 191 Silom ENGLISH Royal Cliff Beach Resort, Phuket. Rd, Bangkok. City Map 7 LANGUAGE 353 Moo 12, Tel 0-7626-1416. A4. Tel 0-2231-3333. BOOKSTORES Phra Tamnuk Rd, Pattaya. www.central.co.th www.chans-antique.com Asia Books Tel 0-3825-2292. CentralWorld Plaza National Museum 221 Sukhumvit Rd, Kata Thani Beach Resort Ratchadamri Rd, Bangkok. Fine Arts Department, Bangkok. and Spa, 14 Kata Noi Rd, City Map 8 D1. 1 Na Phra That Rd, Tel 0-2651-0428. Hat Kata Noi, Phuket. Tel 0-2635-1111. www.asiabooks.com Tel 0-7633-0010. Bangkok. City Map 1 C4. www.centralworld.co.th Tel 0-2224-1370. Bookazine Shinawatra Emporium Floor 1, CP Tower, 94 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 23, NeOld Sukhumvit Rd, Prompong, 313 Silom Rd, Bangkok. Bangkok. 149/2–3 Surawong Rd, Bangkok. City Map 8 F1. City Map 7 C4. Tel 0-2258-0295. Bangkok. City Map 7 B4. Tel 0-2664-8000. www. Tel 0-2231-0016. Tel 0-2235-8352. emporium-thailand.com Hat Chaweng, ARTS AND CRAFTS The Fine Arts Fashion Island Opposite McDonald’s, Narayana Phand 3/F Room 354 River City, 5/5 Ramindra Rd, Ko Samui. Ratchadamri Rd, Bangkok. Bangkok. Tel 0-7741-3616. Bangkok. City Map 6 F3. City Map 8 D1. Tel 0-2947-5000. Royal Garden Plaza, Tel 0-2237-0077 ext 354. Tel 0-2252-4670. www.fashionisland.co.th 218/2-4 Moo 10 Beach Rd, Pattaya. River City Complex JEWELRY Jungceylon Tel 0-3871-0472. 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng, Shopping Complex Astral Gemstone 18 Bangla Rd, Hat Patong, Yotha Rd, Bangkok. 181 Rat-U-Thit 200 Pee Kathu, Phuket. Talisman City Map 6 F3. Rd, Patong, Phuket. Tel 0-7634-5883. 1st Fl, 123-C All Season Tel 0-2237-0077. Tel 0-7660-0111. Place, 87/208 Wireless Rd, DK Book House Silom Village Bangkok. Mike Shopping 3rd Fl, Seacon Square, Silom Rd, Bangkok. Mall 904 Srinakharin Rd, Tel 0-2252-1230. City Map 7 A4. 262 Moo 10, Pattaya Nongbon, Praves, www.astralgemstone- Tel 0-2234-4448. Beach Rd, Pattaya. Bangkok. talismans.com Tel 0-3841-2000. www.silomvillage.co.th Tel 0-2721-9190. Uthai’s Gems Phuket Orchid Peninsula Plaza Kinokuniya 28/7 Soi Ruam Rudi, Ratchadamri Rd, Bangkok. Garden and 3rd Fl, Room 301-3 Thai Village Phloen Chit Rd, Bangkok. City Map 8 D1. Emporium Shopping 52/11 Thepkasattri Rd, City Map 8 F2. Tel 0-2253-9762. Complex, Muang Phuket. Tel 0-2253-8582. 622 Sukhumvit 24 Rd, Robinson’s Tel 0-7621-4860. 259 Sukhumvit Rd, Klong Toey, GEMS Between Soi 17 and 19, Bangkok. CERAMICS Asian Institute Bangkok. City Map 8 D3. Tel 0-2664-8554. Thai Celadon House of Gemological Tel 0-2252-5121. THAI SILK 8/3–8/5 Ratchadapisek Rd, Sciences Robinson’s Ocean Sukhumvit, Bangkok. 33rd Floor, Jewellery Trade Department Store Jim Thompson Tel 0-2229-4383. Center, 919/1 Silom Rd, 36 Tilok Uthit 1 Rd, 9 Surawong Rd, Bangkok. Bangkok. City Map 7 A4. Talat Yai, Phuket town, MASKS, PUPPETS, City Map 3 C5. Tel 0-2267-4315. Phuket. AND MUSICAL Tel 0-2632-8100. www.aigsthailand.com Tel 0-7625-6500. INSTRUMENTS www.jimthompson Mook Phuket Seacon Square house.org Shadow Puppet 904 Srinakharin Rd, Theater 65/1 Moo1, Chao Fa Rd, Hilton Hua Hin Resort and Phuket town. Bangkok. Spa, 33 Naresdamri Rd, 110/18 Si Thammasok Soi Tel 0-2721-8888. Hua Hin. 3, Nakhon Si Thammarat. Tel 0-7621-3766. www.seaconsquare.com Tel 0-3253-3486. Tel 0-7534-6394. www.mookphuket.com 338 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS odern Thailand is a passion for the popular muay thai. melting pot of cultures A sense of sanuk (fun) pervades Mand while it may have most activities on the beaches and adopted many foreign pursuits, islands of Thailand, even during ranging from Hollywood movies solemn religious festivals. Indulging to karaoke bars, traditional forms in local passions is essential to of entertainment still flourish. Colorful bar understanding and enjoying life Classical khon dance still sign here, whether it be live music at a survive and are showcased through bar, a colorful temple fair, the acro- cultural programs for visitors. A large batic takraw game, or watching the number of Thai people still nurture a latest Thai blockbuster film.

INFORMATION SOURCES Alternatively, visitors can buy khon, and the elaborate if less tickets directly from venues or formal lakhon, are becoming Details of major events and through websites offering increasingly rare. In even festivals taking place through- ticketing services for concerts greater danger of extinction out the country are provided and other performances. are the Hun krabok marion- in booklets available at TAT ette shows (see pp26–7). offices. Thailand’s leading The most atmospheric place English-language listings and to watch traditional dance is features magazine, Big Chilli, at Sanam Luang during royal is a useful source for events ceremonies such as the king’s in the capital as well as in birthday or a funeral when the rest of the country. Other dozens of stages are built to Bangkok-based magazines provide nightlong entertain- such as BK Magazine and ment. Complete performances Bangkok Recorder are also can go on for days, so useful guides to the city. The abridged scenes are chosen major resort areas, Hua Hin, for shows at the National Ko Samui, Krabi, Pattaya, Theater on the last Friday and and Phuket, also produce a Big Chilli, Thailand’s leading listings Saturday of every month, and number of free monthly list- and features magazine at the Sala Chalermkrung ings magazines. Free maps, Theater in Bangkok. marked with entertainment TRADITIONAL THEATER Countless dinner shows in venues, are available at air- AND DANCE major cities and resorts offer ports and at big resorts. Even dance performances from all lesser developed islands such Watching the stylized masked over the country. Reliable as Ko Phangan and Ko Tao khon performance by grace- venues in Bangkok include produce a few useful maps. ful male dancers is akin to the Rose Garden and Silom watching the murals of Wat Village, while the Mandarin BOOKING TICKETS Phra Kaeo (see pp56–61) in Oriental’s Sala Rim Nam res- motion. Sadly, interest in taurant (see p321) presents Big hotels and travel agents these dance dramas based authentic khon. In Hua Hin, can book tickets for cultural on the Ramakien (see p59) is the Sasi Restaurant offers a shows and sports events. waning, and performances of fine variety show of tradi- tional dance and martial arts. Lakhon can also be witnessed in Bangkok, at the Lak Muang shrine near Sanam Luang, and the Erawan Shrine. Traditional puppetry can be seen at the Joe Louis Theater in Bangkok. The most widespread dance drama is likay, commonly featuring in temple fairs, festivals, and television. Its bawdy, slapstick, and satirical elements ensure a strong fol- lowing. Manora is the ancient equivalent from southern A traditional khon performance at the National Theater, Bangkok Thailand. While nang talung, ENTERTAINMENT IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 339

or shadow puppet, shows about 2,000 mobile units Spasso, Shangri-La’s are still widespread in in the country that offer Angelini, and Mandarin Malaysia and Indonesia, they impromptu open- Oriental’s Lord Jim’s have almost disappeared from air screenings in and Bamboo Bar. Thailand and survive only in villages. The film These live music the provinces of Phatthalung industry in Thailand haunts are sup- and Nakhon Si Thammarat. has a long and some- plemented by Performances of nang talung what erratic history. karaoke, theme at local festivals can continue Despite the produc- bars, and discos in through the night, but are tion of serious art Bangkok’s fashion- shortened for visitors. Even cinema such as Luk able districts. There rarer are performances of (1978), the are many large night- nang yai, in which enormous, majority of the films clubs in Bangkok flat leather puppets are are formulaic melo- including the popular manipulated by a team of dramas, violent action films, Narcissus. Sarasin Road is expert puppeteers. or . Action films a popular strip with restau- from Hong Kong have rants and bars. The always been popular, Dancer in gay scene is centered and have been supple- Calypso Cabaret on Silom Soi 2. mented by Hollywood Clubs are found in movies since the early 1990s. all major resorts in Thailand. In recent years, however, In Pattaya, Tony’s is the most Thai cinema is enjoying a famous entertainment option. revival and is now regarded Phuket’s Soi Bangla on Hat as one of the most creative in Patong is the epicenter of the Southeast Asia. The capital island’s nightlife. Ko Samui’s also hosts the increasingly burgeoning nightlife is split prestigious annual Bangkok between Hat Chaweng and International Film Festival. Hat Lamai. Many theaters such as Notorious red-light districts The Century Movie Plaza and such as Patpong, Nana Plaza Scene from the famous musical Phra EGV Siam Square in Bangkok, (Sukhumvit Soi 3), and Soi Lor at Patravadi Theater, Bangkok Major Cineplex and Royal Cowboy in Bangkok, plus Garden Plaza in Pattaya and Pattaya and Patong in Phuket CONCERTS, EXHIBITIONS, SF Cinema City Jungceylon in are infamous for their bizarre AND MODERN THEATER Phuket, show movies with entertainment. Travelers their original soundtracks. should be wary of getting Thailand’s major concert and cheated. It is better to stick exhibition halls are located in DISCOS, BARS, LIVE to the King’s group of bars Bangkok. The state-of-the-art MUSIC, AND FOLK CLUBS which are slightly better Thailand Cultural Center has than the others. These areas excellent facilities and attracts Despite being challenged by are also home to the famous big international names. The international rock, Thai pop kathoeys, or flamboyant trans- German Goethe-Institut and and folk music has retained vestites, who are a part of the Alliance Française host its popularity and can be this industry and put up good exhibitions and con- heard throughout the country. colorful shows. Cabarets are certs, and top stars frequently The main styles include the also popular and the best of perform in the ballrooms of exuberant, rhythmic ram these are at Calypso Cabaret, upscale hotels. wong, a folk dance with Bangkok; Simon Cabaret, The Patravadi Theater is drums; look thung folk music Phuket; and Alcazar, Pattaya. usually the venue for dramatic combining big band music, musicals based on classical costumed dance troupes, and tales – these are easily under- singing; and the sentimental stood by non-Thais. look krung. Molam music The Phuket FantaSea has from the northeast has an an elaborate nightly perform- upbeat sound and uses khaen ance entitled Fantasy of a pipes and rap-like vocals. The Kingdom which takes visitors radical phleng phua chiwit, or through different eras of Thai songs for life, have a protest- history through a stunning based theme and are a mix of audio-visual show. traditional Thai folk music with Western rock. MOVIES The Raintree in Bangkok showcases folk music, while Thais are avid moviegoers new rock bands often play at and Bangkok now has a O’Reilly’s Irish Pub. The hotels number of multiplexes. These are home to classier venues Visitors enjoying drinks at a modern theaters coexist with such as Grand Hyatt Erawan’s colorful theme bar, Bangkok 340 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

more ponderous sports. There are elaborate versions of this game, but the classic style has a team trying to get the ball into a basketball-like net during a set time frame more times than their rivals. Despite sepak takraw (a competitive version of the original takraw), being incor- porated into the Asian Games and Olympics, professional games of this sport are surprisingly rare.

SOCCER, RUGBY, AND SNOOKER Thais preparing krathongs for the Loy Krathong festival Thais have always been TEMPLE FAIRS the Ratchadamnoen Boxing enthusiatic about football AND FESTIVALS Stadium on Mondays, or soccer and the game was Wednesdays, Thursdays, and introduced to the country as The Thai calendar is packed Sundays. Krabi’s Ao Nang early as 1897 and came under with national holidays and Krabi Stadium is the south’s the king’s royal patronage a local festivals (see pp34–7). largest arena with bouts every few years later. In 1996, a These may be religious festi- Friday. Visitors interested in professional soccer league – vals or those that honor a actually learning the skills of the Thai Premier League with local hero, celebrate seasonal this sport should contact the 18 clubs – was introduced. changes and harvests, or are International Amateur Muay Rugby has also sparked dedicated to activities such as Thai Federation, who should remarkable interest, with its boat racing and kite flying. be able to recommend suit- own league and participation Apart from hosting other able gyms and instructors. in the Hong Kong Sevens. events, most wats stage Another revered, long- Matches are held in Bangkok temple fairs. Along with established Thai martial art at National Stadium, Hua scheduled fairs is krabi-krabong, meaning Mark Indoor and Outdoor such as the Golden sword-staff, after some of Stadiums, Army Stadium, and Mount Temple Fair the hand weaponry Royal Bangkok Sports Club. in Bangkok and Loy used in this sport. The Thailand is one of the most Krathong (see p37), techniques are taught successful non-Anglophone there are a number of according to ancient countries to adopt snooker. smaller regional festi- rules and standards, Revived by an Englishman, vals and celebrations. although skill and Maurice Kerr, Managing The smaller ceremo- stamina, rather than Director of the Royal Bangkok nies are often as injuries inflicted, are Sports Club, it was thereafter entertaining as the now the measure of popularized throughout the main event itself, Muay thai fighters an accomplished country by the world seeded, with vendors selling enact a bout fighter. Krabi- James Wattana. Since then food and trinkets, krabong is often snooker has become pro- and flamboyantly dressed demonstrated at cultural fessional and both domestic kathoeys adding color. Folk performances for tourists. and world ranking events are music such as likay and ram held in Bangkok. wong, beauty contests, and TAKRAW games add to the general festivities. These also include This acrobatic sport, cockfighting and Siamese which is similar to fighting fish contests. volleyball, is popular all over Southeast Asia MUAY THAI AND and played by young KRABI-KRABONG males on any clear patch of ground. The Muay thai (see p283) is a idea is to keep a national passion. Most prov- woven rattan ball in inces have a boxing arena, the air using any part but the top venues are in of the body apart from Bangkok. Lumphini Stadium hands. The players’ has bouts every Tuesday, extraordinary agility Friday, and Saturday, and and speed are a treat there are boxing matches at for visitors reared on An acrobatic bout of the the game of takraw ENTERTAINMENT IN THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 341

DIRECTORY TRADITIONAL Patravadi Theater Angelini MUAY THAI AND THEATER AND 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi KRABI-KRABONG DANCE Arun Amarin Rd, Wat Suan Phu, Bangkok. Ao Nang Krabi Thonburi, Bangkok. City Map 6 F5. Joe Louis Theater Stadium City Map 1 B5. Tel 0-2236-7777. 1875 Rama IV Rd, Hat Noppharat Tel 0-2412-7287. www. Bangkok. www.shangri-la.com patravaditheatre.com Thara, Krabi. City Map 8 D4. Bamboo Bar Tel 0-7562-1042. Tel 0-2252-9683. Phuket FantaSea Mandarin Oriental, 48 www.thaipuppet.com 99 Moo 3, Hat Kamala, Oriental Ave, Bangkok. International Kathu, Phuket. Amateur Muay Thai National Theater City Map 6 F4. Tel 0- Tel 0-7638-5000. www. Federation Rachinee Rd, 2659-9000. www. phuket-fantasea.com Pathumwan Stadium, Bangkok. mandarinoriental.com 154 Rama I Rd, City Map 1 C4. Thailand Cultural Calypso Cabaret Bangkok. Tel 0-2224-1342. Center Asia Hotel, 296 Phaya Ratchadaphisek Rd, City Map 7 B1. Rose Garden Thai Rd, Bangkok. Bangkok. Tel 0-2215-6212–4. Off Hwy 4, 20 miles Tel 0-2216-8973 Tel 0-2247-0028. (32 km) W of Bangkok. www.calypsocabaret.com Lumphini Stadium Tel 0-2295-3261. MOVIES Lord Jim’s Rama IV Rd, www.rosegarden Mandarin Oriental, 48 Bangkok. EGV Siam Square riverside.com Oriental Ave, Bangkok. City Map 8 E4. 6th Fl, Siam Discovery City Map 6 F4. Tel Tel 0-2251-4303. Sala Center, Rama I Rd, 0-2659-9000. www. Chalermkrung Bangkok. City Map 8 C1. Ratchadamnoen Theater mandarinoriental.com Tel 0-2812-9999. Boxing Stadium 66 Charoen Krung Rd, www.egv.com Narcissus 1 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd, Bangkok. Major Cineplex 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Bangkok. City Map 6 D1. Bangkok. Tel 0-2258- The Avenue, Soi 13, City Map 2 F4. Tel 0-2222-0434. 4805. 2nd Rd, Pattaya. www.narz Tel 0-2281-4205. www.salachalerm Tel 0-3805-2227. bangkok.com krung.com www.majorcineplex.com O’Reilly’s Irish Pub SOCCER, RUGBY, Sasi Restaurant AND SNOOKER Royal Garden Plaza 62 Silom Rd, Bangkok. 83/159 Nhongkae, Royal Garden Center, City Map 8 C4. Army Stadium Hua Hin. South Pattaya, Pattaya. Tel 0-2632-7515. Wiphawadirangsit Rd, Tel 0-3251-2488. Tel 0-3842-8057. www. Raintree Bangkok. www.sasi-restaurant.com royalgardenplaza.co.th 116/64 Soi Rang Nam, off Tel 0-2278-5095. Silom Village Phaya Thai Rd, Bangkok. SF Cinema City Hua Mark Indoor 286 Silom Rd, Bangkok. Jungceylon City Map 4 E4. Map 7 A4. and Outdoor 3rd Fl, Jungceylon Patong, Tel 0-2245-7230. Tel 0-2234-4448. Stadiums Hat Patong, Phuket town. Simon Cabaret 2088 Ramkhamhaeng Rd, Tel 0-7660-0555 CONCERTS, 100/6–8 Moo 4, Karon Rd, Bangkok. www.sfcinemacity.co.th EXHIBITIONS, AND Patong, Phuket. Tel 0-2318-0946. MODERN THEATER The Century Tel 0-7634-2011. www. Movie Plaza National Stadium Alliance Française phuket-simoncabaret.com 15 Phaya Thai Rd, 154 Rama I Rd, 29 Sathorn Tai Rd, Spasso Ratchathewi, Bangkok. Bangkok. Yannawa, Bangkok. Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, City Map 4 E3. City Map 7 B1. City Map 8 D4. 494 Ratchadamri Rd, Tel 0-2247-1111. www. Tel 0-2214-0120. Tel 0-2670-4200. Bangkok. City Map 8 D1. centurythemovieplaza.com www.alliance- Tel 0-2254-1234. www. Royal Bangkok francaise.or.th DISCOS, BARS, bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Sports Club Goethe-Institut LIVE MUSIC, AND Tony’s 1 Henri Dunant Rd, FOLK CLUBS 18/1 Soi AtthakanPrasit, 200/3 Soi 16, Pathumwan, Sathorn Tai Rd, Bangkok. Alcazar Walking Street, Bangkok. City Map 8 E4. Pattaya 2nd Rd, Pattaya. South Pattaya. City Map 8 D2. Tel 0-2287-0942. www. Tel 0-3841-0224–5. Tel 08-1862-0083. Tel 0-2652-5000. goethe.de/bangkok www.alcazarpattaya.com www.tonydisco.com www.rbsc.org 342 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS hailand offers an impressive Exciting ways to explore the country’s range of outdoor activities and natural wilderness include white- Tspecial interests. The coastal water rafting and kayaking, canoeing, regions are ideal for all kinds of sailing, elephant riding, wildlife aquatic pursuits from sailing, water- watching, and rock climbing. skiing, jet-skiing, and windsurfing to Visitors can also take advantage of big game fishing, snorkeling, and the growing number of excellent golf diving. Trekking in this spectacular Adventurous courses in various resorts such as region is also a popular pastime, windsurfing Phuket and Hua Hin, or learn a especially in the forested hills and variety of cultural skills such as mountains of southern peninsular Buddhist meditation forms, traditional Thailand. Coastal Thailand also has an Thai massage, and the delicious secrets extensive network of national parks. of Thai food and culinary techniques.

DIVING AND anchoring and snorkelers SNORKELING breaking the coral. Reckless fishing with dragnets, har- Abundant, gorgeous coral poons, and explosives has reefs thronging with aquatic also killed some reefs, while life, and serviced by countless siltation and pollution pose diving operations, make growing threats. Although the Thailand one of the world’s tsunami of 2004 caused a most accessible and rewarding tragic loss of life, its effect on destinations for underwater the coral reefs of the Andaman exploration. The Andaman Sea was minimal. coast and islands in particular, Because of rough weather Beachside dive shop at Hat Khlong have some stunning reefs, brought on by monsoons, the Phrao, Ko Chang ocean drop-offs, and sub- Andaman sites are accessible merged pinnacles, as well as only from November to April; at Dive Info, a good source of visibility that often exceeds the waters of the Western diving information. PADI- 100 ft (30 m). A rich variety of Gulf are best visited between approved diving courses are marine life – such as huge January and October. The widely available in Thailand. whale sharks off the exotic Eastern Seaboard, however, is The main centers offering Burma Banks (see p205) – can accessible all-year round. courses are Dive Asia, be spotted in these waters. Diving trips vary in length Santana Diving and Canoeing, Much of the best diving is from one to several days, and and Sunrise Divers in Phuket; to be found in national marine many tours accommodate Sea Dragon Dive Center in parks, such as the Surin, snorkelers also. The Asian Khao Lak; Blue Diamond Dive Similan, and Ko Tarutao Diver Scuba Guide: Thailand Resort and Phoenix Divers in archipelagos; Ko Tao; and Ko (Asian Diver) and Diving in Ko Tao; Samui International Chang. The once magnificent Thailand (Asia Books) have Diving School in Ko Samui; Ko Phi Phi has not been pro- comprehensive listings and Haad Yao Divers in Ko tected by this reserve status, details of dive sites. Additional Phangan; Phi Phi Scuba and and has been damaged by information is available online Viking Divers in Ko Phi Phi, Krabi; and Pattaya. Basic div- ing rules include: inspecting equipment properly, making sure it fits well; only diving after adequate training; diving with a buddy system; making sure the group is not too large; being confident in the abilities of the instructor; and never touching the coral. Snorkeling is an alternative to diving, since all one needs is the ability to swim. Medsye offers great snorkeling trips to the Similan Islands. Most Divers swimming with a leopard shark off the Andaman coast hotels and guesthouses located OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS 343

near the reefs rent out equipment, but to make the most of the experience, it is best to buy one’s own. It is also important to be constantly aware of one’s position and not venture too far.

SAILING

Thailand’s dramatic coastline is popular with the yachting fraternity who come to Phuket every December for the King’s Cup Regatta (see p228). Chartering a yacht – with or without a skipper – is possible, although rates for this exclu- sive activity are not cheap. Sailing companies such as Kayaking, an adventurous way to explore the mangroves and caves Gulf Charters Thailand oper- ate on the Eastern Seaboard, collapsed sea caves. Ringed inflatables. No experience is where sea breezes are often by forest and often containing necessary apart from the ability ideal, but the widest choice of tiny beaches, many of these to swim, since instruction is sailing companies is in Phuket. spectacular hongs, or under- given to paddlers before set- Some of the best known are water caves, were discovered ting out, and each raft has a Phuket Sailing, Yachtpro, and by John Gray’s Sea Canoe crew capable of dealing with South East Asia Liveaboards. Thailand, which, along with any emergency. The Wild Sea Canoe Thailand, runs the Planet provides good informa- WATERSPORTS most responsible tours to tion on the best times and these fragile “lost worlds”. places. The season for white- Watersports are popular at Another reliable outfit that water rafting and kayaking many Thai resorts, but the dis- operates tours around Phang lasts from July to December. turbance they cause to the Nga Bay, Ko Tarutao Marine environment has resulted in National Park, and the huge GOLF them being banned in places reservoir in Khao Sok National such as Krabi. However, at Park is Paddle Asia. With green and caddie fees most other seaside towns it is cheaper than in the West, it is possible to rent windsurfing WHITE-WATER RAFTING easy to see why many visitors boards and jet skis. Banana AND KAYAKING to Thailand include a round of boat rides are common, even golf on their itinerary. in places such as Ko Samet. Sedate bamboo rafting is a Many clubs are open to For the best range of such popular tourist pastime, par- non-members, and golfing sports, vacationers should ticularly in the Phang Nga vacation packages are particu- head to Hat Jomtien in Pattaya, area where Adventure Camp larly popular at places such as or try resorts in Hua Hin, is the acknowledged leader. International Cha-am, and Hat Patong or More exciting, although, is Country Club in Pattaya, Blue Hat Karon in Phuket. white-water rafting on hardy Canyon Country Club, Mission Anglers can make use of Hills Golf Resort, and Phuket the excellent big-game fishing Country Club in Phuket, Palm opportunities with Pattaya Hills Golf Club in Cha-am, and Fishing in Chonburi and the Black Mountain Golf Club Dorado Game Fishing or in Hua Hin. Ko Samui has Aloha Tours in Phuket, but recently improved its golfing they must pay in excess of facilities with the addition of 10,000 baht for boat rental. the Santiburi Samui Country The Barracuda Bar in Pattaya Club. Visit the GolfThailand. also arranges for freshwater Net website to see what is on lake fishing. offer. The best printed guides to courses are the Thailand CANOEING Golf Map and Thailand Golf Guide. TAT also publishes a Sea-canoeing is not just the free directory of the country’s most peaceful way to enjoy top 75 courses. The David the unusual karst islets of Leadbetter Academy of Golf Phang Nga Bay and the Ang at the Thana City Golf and Thong archipelago, but also Enjoying a game of golf in one Country Club is a great place the only way to explore their of the many courses in Hua Hin to remove handicaps. 344 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

ELEPHANT RIDING that can be reserved through the National Park, Wildlife, After the mechanization of and Plant Conservation logging and its supposed ban Department. The more popu- in 1989, elephants were no lar parks, such as Khao Sok, longer used for logging work, Khao Sam Roi Yot (see pp144– and their mahouts were 5), and Khao Phanom Bencha reduced to begging on city (see p245), have well-marked streets for a living. Offering nature trails, but in less popu- elephant rides is a positive lar parks, visitors should ask move toward ensuring the park rangers to lead them to survival of this magnificent interesting features. national symbol, since their lowland forest habitat has BOAT TRIPS been largely destroyed. Visitors will find the best Before the arrival of motor opportunities for elephant rid- Elephant rides, an exotic way of cars, boats were the only form ing in the south and east, exploring regions in Thailand of transportation in Thailand, especially at Nong Nooch apart from walking. Low-lying Village to the south of Pattaya November to February and areas of the country were and Pattaya Elephant Village, early in the wet season, in criss-crossed by canals that where there are daily elephant June and July. Eco-friendly enabled locals to visit friends shows and elephant rides into visitors can try Evolution Tour, and do their daily shopping. the nearby countryside. Simi- Khao Sok Trekking Club, Siam These days, however, floating larly, Ko Chang’s Ban Kwan Safari, and Phuket Trekking markets are strictly for vaca- Chang Elephant Camp and Club; Friends of Nature also tioners who can enjoy the Samui’s Namuang Safari Park organizes ecological treks. colorful spectacle of it all. offer rides, as do Bangkok’s Apart from these floating Dusit Zoo and . WILDLIFE WATCHING markets, there are several other locations where visitors TREKKING Unfortunately, much of can go sightseeing by boat. In Thailand’s wildlife has been Bangkok, Chao Phraya Express Thailand offers some ideal hunted almost to extinction, Boats offers short tours with terrain for trekking. The pre- so there is little point in commentary on the main river- cipitous karst forests of Krabi spending a few days in a hide side sights. In the south, and Khao Sok, in particular, in the hope of seeing a wild companies such as Sayan have outstanding hiking trails. tiger or a bear. However, the Tour organize half- and full- Useful tips include lining country has a wide network day trips on longtail boats backpacks with plastic bags of national parks, where some around the limestone stacks to keep damp out; sleeping in effort has been made to pro- in Phang Nga Bay; visitors dry clothes (even if it means tect pockets of natural beauty. also have the option of wearing wet clothes by day); Here, visitors might well see canoeing for an hour. wearing a sun hat and cream rare and colorful birds, huge for protection against sunburn, butterflies, and foot-long cen- CYCLING and long trousers to protect tipedes. The entrance fee to against leeches; using insect national parks for foreigners With cycling growing in repellent; and wearing worn- has been doubled to 400 popularity worldwide, it is no in hiking boots or at least baht. Some parks have camp- surprise that more and more supportive athletic shoes. sites, and most have log people consider touring The best time to trek is from cabin-style accommodations Thailand on a cycle. Not only is it healthy and environmen- tally sound, it also guarantees meaningful encounters with local people along the way – just put a bike on a bus or train and head for quieter rural areas. The terrain is mostly cyclist-friendly, and several companies organize guided rides along country lanes. Visitors considering a cycling holiday are advised to consult the websites of the Thai Cycling Club and Biking Southeast Asia. The best time to cycle in Thailand is from November to February; the Trekking through Thailand’s beautiful and varied rain forests worst is in the hot season OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS 345

the Higher Truths, or code of conduct, is given for free, most places suggest that stu- dents make a donation to cover their lodging and food. For meditation sessions in English and longer, disciplined retreats, contact the World Fellowship of Buddhists. Visitors are welcome to join the 10-day course run by the International Dharma Heritage near Chaiya, at the beginning of each month at Wat Suan Mokkh (see p161). Other options include the famous Wat Mahathat (see p62) in Bangkok, Wat Khao Tham (see p177) on Ko Phangan, as well as the Dhammakaya Thailand’s best rock climbing at Hat Rai Leh near Krabi Foundation’s retreats and Sunday sessions. Some loca- between March and May. such as Phuket and Pattaya. tions have facilities for women, Cycling in the rainy season is A certificate is issued on while others are only for men. also worth considering. Bike completion of the jump. Visitors can also study Thai and Travel and Spice Roads massage, a vigorous combina- are two recommended cycling HORSE RACING tion of yoga, reflexology, and tour operators with offices in AND RIDING acupressure. Courses typically Bangkok and Pathum Thani last between one and two near Bangkok. As one of the few forms of weeks, and consist of theory, gambling allowed in demonstration, and practice, ROCK CLIMBING Thailand, horse racing leading to a certification of attracts a strong local competence. Popular training Those looking for an following, and the in English is conducted at Wat activity that gets the atmosphere is always Pho (see pp64–5). adrenalin flowing will vibrant. Races are held The technique of preparing find rock climbing hard on weekends in Bang- Thai food – including fruit to beat. Thailand is one of kok at the Royal Bangkok and vegetable carving – can the most popular destina- Sports Club and the Royal be learned at cooking schools tions for this sport. Turf Club. For a more in hotels such as Dusit Thani Krabi is the epicenter of hands-on equine experi- (see p291) and Mandarin rock climbing, especially ence, check out the Oriental (see p74) in Bangkok, at Hat Rai Leh, where Well-geared activities on offer at the the Blue Elephant restaurant several companies offer cyclist International Riding and cooking school and half- to three-day cours- School near Pattaya and Baipai Thai Cooking School es for beginners and rent out the Phuket Riding Club. also in Bangkok, Happy Home equipment to experienced Thai Cooking in Pattaya, Pat’s climbers; the more CULTURAL STUDY Home Thai Cooking School, reliable operators include Tex in Phuket and the Samui Rock Climbing, King Climbers, Courses in meditation can Institute of Thai Culinary Arts and Hot Rock. More than 700 give a valuable insight into in Ko Samui. bolted routes in the region Thai culture and also provide offer climbs which are graded invaluable skills to help cope according to the French sys- with stress. Participants are tem. Ko Phi Phi has a similar required to dress in white and limestone terrain, and a few adhere to the fundamental local companies, such as vows of Buddhism – refraining Spidermonkey Climbing, offer from killing, stealing, lying, instructions for beginners at and eating after midday. Ton Sai Tower and Hin Taek. Practitioners are expected to be up before dawn and to BUNGEE JUMPING plan their day around ses- sions of walking and sitting Visitors who want to go meditation, as well as abstain- bungee jumping should head ing from entertainment (no to Jungle Bungy Jump, a TV or music) and idle chat successful company operating (no mobile phones). Since the Visitors learning to cook Thai food in popular tourist locations Dharma, which means Way of in the Baipai Thai Cooking School 346 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

DIRECTORY DIVING AND Sea Dragon Barracuda Bar GOLF SNORKELING Dive Center 157/132–133 Moo 5, 5/51 Moo 7, Pattaya-Naklua Rd, Black Mountain Blue Diamond T Khuk Khak, . Golf Club Tel 08-4778-8125. Dive Resort Khao Lak. 12/16 Phet Kasem Rd, Hua www.barracudabar- 24/21 Moo 2, Mae Hat, Tel 0-7648-5418. Hin. Tel 0-3261-8666. pattaya.com Ko Tao. www.seadragon www.bmghuahin.com Tel 0-7745-6880. divecenter.com Dorado Game www.bluediamond Blue Canyon diving.com Sunrise Divers Fishing Country Club 269/24 Patak Rd, 101/172 Moo 5, 165 Moo 1, Thepkasattri Dive Asia Karon Plaza, Chalermprakiet Ror 9 Rd, Rd, Thalang, Phuket. 24 Karon Rd, Hat Kata, Hat Karon, Rasada, Phuket. Tel 0-7632-8088. Phuket. Phuket. Tel 0-7629-3167. www.bluecanyon Tel 0-7633-0598. Tel 0-7639-8040. www.phuket-fishing.com club.com www.diveasia.com www.sunrise-divers.com Pattaya Fishing GolfThailand.Net Dive Info Viking Divers SEAduction Dive Centre, www.golfthailand.net Ban Chuancheun, Moo 7, Ko Phi Phi. Bali Hai Pier, 551/2 Moo Pattanakarn 57, Bangkok. Tel 08-1719-3375. 10, Tambon Nongprue, Laem Chabang Tel 08-1825-9607. www.vikingdivers Banglamung, Chonburi. International www.diveinfo.net thailand.com Tel 0-3871-0029. Country Club www.pattayafishing.com 106/8 Moo 4, Beung, Sri Haad Yao Divers SAILING Racha, near Pattaya. Sandy Bay Bungalows, CANOEING Tel 0-3837-2273. Hat Yao, Ko Phangan. Gulf Charters www.laemchabang Tel 08-6279-3085. Thailand John Gray’s Sea golf.com www.haadyaodivers.com Ocean Marina, Canoe 167/5 Sukhumvit Rd, 124 Soi 1 Yaowarat Rd, Mission Hills Medsye Sattahip. Phuket town. Golf Resort 78/46 Moo 5, Tel 0-3823-7752. Tel 0-7625-4505. 195 Moo 4 Pla Khlok, Thap Lamu, www.gulfcharters www.johngray-seacanoe. Thalang, Phuket. Thai Muang thailand.com com Tel 0-7631-0888. Ko Similan. www.missionhills Tel 0-7648-6796. Phuket Sailing Paddle Asia phuket.com www.similanthailand. 20/28 Soi Suksan, 9/71 Rasdanusorn Rd, com Moo 4, Tambon Rawai, Phuket. Palm Hills Golf Club 1444 Phet Kasem Rd, Phuket. Tel 0-7624-0952. Phi Phi Scuba Cha-am. Tel 0-7628-9656. www.paddleasia.com Ao Ton Sai, Ko Phi Phi. Tel 0-3252-0801. www.phuket-sailing.com Tel 0-7561-2665. Sea Canoe Thailand www.palmhills-golf.com www.ppscuba.com South East Asia 125/461 Moo 5, Phuket Country Liveaboards Baan Tung Ka – Baan Phoenix Divers Club PO Box 381, Phuket town, Sapam Rd, Phuket. 1 Moo 1, Hat Sai Ri, 80/1 Vichitsongkram Rd, Phuket. Tel 0-7652-8839. Ko Tao. Moo 7, Kathu, Phuket. Tel 0-7652-2807. www.seacanoe.net Tel 0-7745-6033. Tel 0-7631 9200. www.phoenix-divers.com www.seal-asia.com WHITE-WATER www.phuketcountry club.com Samui International Yachtpro RAFTING AND Diving School Adjacent to Yacht KAYAKING Santiburi Samui Haven Marina, Phuket. 30/1 Moo 4, Bophut, Country Club Tel 0-7634-8117. Ban Bangrak, Adventure Camp 12/15 Moo 4, Baan Don www.sailing-thailand. Ko Samui. 125/1 Phang Nga Rd, Sai, Ko Samui. com Tel 0-7724-2386. Phuket town. Tel 0-7742-1700. www.samui-diving.com Tel 0-7622-2900. www.santiburi.com WATERSPORTS www.sealandcamp.com Santana Diving Thana City Golf and and Canoeing Aloha Tours The Wild Planet Country Club 49 Thaweewong Rd, 44/1 Viset Rd, 666 Sukhumvit 24, 100-100/1 Moo 4, Bang Hat Patong, Phuket. Ao Chalong, Phuket. Bangkok. Na Trat Rd, off Hwy 34, Tel 0-7629-4220. Tel 0-7638-1215. Tel 0-2261-4412. near Bangkok. www.santanaphuket.com www.phuket.com/aloha www.thewildplanet.com Tel 0-2336-1968. OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS 347

DIRECTORY ELEPHANT RIDING WILDLIFE Spidermonkey Blue Elephant WATCHING Climbing 233 South Sathorn Rd, Ban Kwan Chang Ton Sai Village, Ko Phi Phi. Bangkok. Tel 0-2673- 9353. www. Elephant Camp National Park, Tel 0-7581-9384. .spidermonkey blueelephant.com/school Jungle Way,14 Moo 3, Wildlife, and Plant www climbing.com Khlong Son, Ko Chang. Conservation Dhammakaya Tel 08-9223-4795. Department Tex Rock Climbing Foundation www.jungleway.com 61 Phaholyothin Rd, Hat Rai Leh, near Krabi. 40 Moo 8, Khlong Song, Chatuchak, Bangkok. Khlong Luang, Namuang Safari Tel 0-7563-1509. Tel 0-2561-0777. Prathum Thani. Park www.dnp.go.th BUNGEE JUMPING Tel 0-2831-1000. 25/11 Moo 2, Namuang, www.dhammakaya.org Ko Samui. Tel 0-7742- BOAT TRIPS 4663. www. Jungle Bungy Jump Happy Home Thai Pattaya samuinamuangsafari.net Chao Phraya Cooking School Tel 08-6378-3880. Express Boats 81/65 Central Pattaya, Nong Nooch Village www.junglebungy.com 78/24–29 Maharaj Rd, Soi 14 (Soi Thidawan), 163 Sukhumvit Road, Phuket Phra Nakhorn, Bangkok. Pattaya. Pattaya. Tel 0-3870-9358. Tel 0-7632-1351. City Map 2 C4. Tel 0- Tel 08-4417-5258. www.junglebungy.com 2623-6001. www. www.happyhome- Pattaya Elephant chaophrayaboat.co.th thaicookingschool.com Village HORSE RACING 48/120 Moo 7, Nong Pue, Sayan Tour AND RIDING International Pattaya. Tel 0-3824-9818. 209 Phang Nga Bus Dharma Hermitage www.elephant-village- Terminal, Phang Nga. International Riding Wat Suan Mokkh, pattaya.com Tel 0-7643-0348. School Chaiya, Surat Thani. www.sayantour.com 100 Moo 9, Tambon Pong, Tel 0-7743-1552. TREKKING Amphur Banglamung, www.suanmokkh.org CYCLING Chonburi. Tel 0-3824- Pat’s Home Thai Evolution Tour 8026. www.riding Cooking School 30/1/7 Moo 4, Baan Bike and Travel schoolasia.com 26/4 Moo 3, Chao Fa Rd, Khlong Phrao, Ko Chang. 802/756 River Park, Phuket town. Tel 0-3955-7078. Moo 12, Prathum Thani, Phuket Riding Club Tel 08-1538-8272. www.evolutiontour.com near Bangkok. 95 Viset Rd, Rawai, www.phuketindex.com/ Tel 0-2990-0274. Phuket. pathomethai Friends of Nature www.cyclingthailand.com Tel 0-7628-8213. cookingschool 133/21 Ratchaprarop Rd, www.phuketridingclub. Bangkok. City Map 4 E5. com Biking Southeast Samui Institute of Tel 0-2642-4426. www. Asia Thai Culinary Arts friendsofnature93.com www.mrpumpy.net Royal Bangkok Sports Club 46/6 Moo 3, Hat Chaweng, Ko Samui. Khao Sok 1 Henri Dunant Rd, Spice Roads Tel 0-7741-3172. Bangkok. City Map 7 C3. Trekking Club 14/1-B Soi Promsri 2, www.sitca.net 58 Moo 6, Klong Sok, Sukhumvit Soi 39, Tel 0-2652-5000. www.rbsc.org Phanom, Surat Thani. Bangkok. Wat Khao Tham Tel 08-9287-3217. Tel 0-2712-5305. Near Ban Tai, Royal Turf Club www.khaosoktrekking. www.spiceroads.com Ko Phangan. Phitsanulok Rd, Dusit, com www.watkowtahm.org Thai Cycling Club Bangkok. Tel 0-2628-1810. Phuket Trekking www.thaicycling.com Wat Mahathat www.royalturfclub.com Club (Section Five) 55/779–780 Villa ROCK CLIMBING Maharat Rd, Bangkok. CULTURAL STUDY Daowroong Village, City Map 1 C5. East Chao Fa Rd, Tambon Hot Rock Tel 0-2222-6011. Vichit, Phuket. Tel 0- Hat Rai Leh, near Krabi. Baipai Thai Cooking 7637-7344. www. Tel 0-7562-1771. www. School World Fellowship phukettrekking club.com railayadventure.com 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, of Buddhists Nonsi Rd, Chong Nonsi, 616 Benjasiri Park, Siam Safari King Climber Yannawa, Bangkok. Soi Medhinivet, off 45 Chao Fa Rd, Chalong, Hat Rai Leh, near Krabi. City Map 6 F3. Sukhumvit 24, Bangkok. Phuket. Tel 0-7628-0116. Tel 0-7563-7125. Tel 0-2294-9029. Tel 0-2661-1284. www.siamsafari.com www.railay.com www.baipai.com www.wfb-hq.org 348 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Spa Breaks as much as it is to have a spa experience. The fact that Coastal Thailand has numerous spas offering these resorts are often set in every kind of treatment possible. Its sul- remote locations and may be try weather, idyllic landscapes, and accessible only by speedboat sense of tranquility make it an ideal such as the Rayavadee Spa destination for a spa break. Traditional near Krabi, adds to the allure. The Pimalai Resort and Spa Typical aroma Thai architecture, serene Zen-minimalist on Ko Lanta provides treat- oil burners decor, and enchanting gardens blend ment rooms named after local with the Thai people’s gentle and giving flowers and massages with nature to make it a memorable experience. Massage aromatic herbs. The spas at has been practiced in Thailand for some 2,500 years, these resorts offer daily treat- and while it is possible to have a cheap shoulder rub in ment programs for those who a backstreet shop, nothing beats the pampering at a really want to unwind. luxury resort or an afternoon at a day spa. DESTINATION SPAS

Revitalizing the mind, body, and spirit is the central pur- pose of destination spas, with guests rarely leaving the re- sort once they have checked in. Thailand’s first and best, the Chiva-Som International Health Resort, in Hua Hin, offers more than 150 treat- ments focused on relaxation and rejuvenation, stress relief, detoxification, and weight loss. Guests undergo an exten- sive health consultation upon arrival, and a program is spe- cifically created to match their goals. There is a three-night minimum stay, although most Relaxing in the peaceful garden of the Anantara Resort and Spa guests stay a week or more, and nutritious spa cuisine, HOTEL AND RESORT SPAS The Anantara resorts offer activities, and treatments are three- and seven-day pro- included in the rate. Another Travelers tend to visit a hotel grams that include between famous destination spa is the or resort spa as part of a wider 4 and 10 treatments. Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary holiday, with the main focus and Holistic Spa in Ko Samui. being a beach or a cultural SPA RETREATS Because spa resorts tend to experience. However, the lux- provide an array of non-spa urious, upscale hotels and Thailand has a number of activities too – from elephant resorts in Thailand are home to luxury resorts situated in truly and water-buffalo riding to some of the world’s very best breathtaking settings. Visitors mountain climbing – signature spas, offering an enormous looking for an intimate get- treatments at destination spas range of professional, unique, away on a deserted white- and blissful treatments. sand beach skirted by palm The greatest concentration trees should head to the Six of spas is on the islands of Senses Hideaway, Hua Hin, Phuket and Ko Samui and in south of Hua Hin, or the the beach resort towns of Hua Aleenta Resort and Spa, Hin and Cha-am. The country’s Phang Nga. Those who like foremost spa resorts include the idea of retreating into the the exotic Four Seasons Resort, tropical forests to rejuvenate Ko Samui, the popular the body and spirit should Banyan Tree Spa, Phuket, the visit the Tamarind Retreat in Evason Phuket Resort and Six Ko Samui. This spa offers two Senses Spa, and the Anantara different kinds of treatments – Resort and Spa in Hua Hin as classic and forest spas – with well as Ko Samui. an exotic treat in the form of Spa treatments are generally a herbal steam cave and dip- an added extra, but many ping pool. The aim of staying resorts are increasingly offer- here is to experience the local A rejuvenating massage at ing all-inclusive packages. culture and lush environment Banyan Tree Spa, Phuket OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS 349

also cater to travelers who may be suffering from some painful aftereffects.

DAY SPAS

Travelers can easily find day spas – stand-alone operations not attached to resorts or hotels. Many hotels also offer treatments to non-guests on a per-session basis. Most day spas are in Bangkok and include the stylish Being Spa, Pirom Spa, the Harnn Heritage Spa, and Spa of Qinera.

SPA TREATMENTS Working out stress through yoga at Chiva-Som International Health Resort Despite Thailand’s long history of therapeutic massage Banyan Tree Spa, Phuket, to over the world. Thai masseurs and natural healing – including their famous four-hand do not make use of any oils nuad paen boran (traditional Harmony Banyan treatment, or lotions for their massages Thai massage), medicinal where two therapists work on and a traditional massage is herbs, and natural springs – the client at once. Other fre- given to the client who is the country offers unique, quently visited spas, such as asked to lie on a mat or mat- cutting edge treatments. Thai the Six Senses Spa and tress. Many spas have also spa treatments are meant to Anantara Spas offer versions developed their own be both relaxing and rejuve- of this indulgent treatment. signature treatments. The nating, and offer holistic While some treatments are Four Seasons Spas, for exam- healing which invigorates indigenous to Thailand – the ple, have an array of sensual not just the body, but also the traditional Thai massage, for offerings connected to the soul. Expect to see anything example – others such as cycles of the moon, with and everything on a spa hydrotherapy, thalassotherapy, exotic treatments that should menu, from Tropical Sprinkles aromatherapy, and Ayurvedic be experienced only during and Tranquility Mists at the treatments, can be found all certain lunar phases. DIRECTORY HOTEL AND Four Seasons Six Senses Kamalaya Wellness RESORT SPAS Resort, Ko Samui Hideaway, Hua Hin Sanctuary and 219 Moo 5, Ang Thong, 9/22 Moo 5, Holistic Spa Anantara Resort Ko Samui. Hat Naresuan, 102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set and Spa Tel 0-7724-3000, Pranburi, Prachuap Rd, Na-Muang, Ko Samui. Phet Kasem Beach Rd, Tel 0-7742-9800. 0-7724-3002. Khiri Khan. Hua Hin. www.fourseasons.com www.kamalaya.com Tel 0-3261-8200, Tel 0-3252-0250. www.anantara.com SPA RETREATS 0-3263-2111. DAY SPAS www.sixsenses.com 99/9 Moo 1, Aleenta Resort and Being Spa Tamarind Retreat Bophut Bay, Spa, Phang Nga 88 Soi Sukhumvit, 53 205/3 Thong Takian, Ko Samui. 33 Moo 5, T Khokkloy, Klongton Nua, Bangkok. Ko Samui. Tel 0-7742-8300. Phang Nga. Tel 0-2662-6171. Tel 0-7742-4221, Banyan Tree Tel 0-7658-0333. Harnn Heritage Spa 0-7742-4311. Spa, Phuket www.aleenta.com Siam Paragon, 4th Floor, www.tamarind 33 Moo 4, Srisunthorn Rd, Bangkok. City Map 7 C1. Pimalai Resort retreat.com Cherngtalay, Phuket. and Spa Tel 0-2610-9715. Tel 0-7632-4374. 99 Moo 5, Ba Kantiang DESTINATION SPAS Pirom Spa www.banyantreespa.com Beach, Ko Lanta. 87 Nai Lert Building, Evason Phuket Tel 0-7560-7999. Chiva-Som Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok. Resort and Six www.pimalai.com International Tel 0-2655-4177. Senses Spa Rayavadee Spa Health Resort www.piromspa.com 100 Vised Rd, Moo 2 214 Moo 2, Tambol Ao- Phet Kasem Rd, Hua Hin. Spa of Qinera Tambol Rawai, Phuket. Nang, Amphur Muang, Tel 0-3253-6536, 172/1 Soi Phiphat 2, Tel 0-7638-1010. Krabi. Tel 0-7562-0740-3. 0-2711-6900. Chong Nonsi, Bangkok. www.sixsenses.com www.rayavadee.com www.chivasom.com Tel 0-2638-8306.

SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 352361 TRAVEL INFORMATION 362369 352 SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION hailand is well equipped to developing rapidly, and the cater to its growing number of adventurous traveler need no longer Ttourists. The millions of peo- be restricted to organized tours or ple who visit the country each only major tourist destinations year find one of the biggest and such as Bangkok, Pattaya, and best organized tourism industries Phuket. There are many reputable in Asia. The headquarters of the travel agencies all over Thailand. helpful, government-run Tourism These agencies offer valuable Authority of Thailand (TAT) is in advice, book flights and accom- Bangkok, and there are offices across modations, and also organize sight- the country and several overseas seeing tours. Some pre-travel branches. The relevant TAT address planning is necessary to avoid the and telephone number is given worst of the rainy season and Changing of the for each town and sight through- Royal Guard, holiday periods such as the out this guide. The industry is Bangkok Chinese New Year (see p37).

WHEN TO GO downpours, so a light raincoat valid reason, such as business is handy. If visiting temples, or study, for spending three Thailand’s weather can be appropriate dress is required months in Thailand. This visa tempestuous, with year-round (see p355), as is easily remov- is slightly more expensive humidity, high temperatures, able footwear. Visitors should than the 60-day tourist visa. and heavy rainfall. However, also carry a basic first-aid kit. With all visas, entry into the optimum time to visit is Thailand must occur within during the cooler months VISA AND PASSPORTS 90 days of issue. Visa exten- from November to February. sions are at the discretion of This is the peak tourist season, Many nationalities, including the Immigration Department and sights may get crowded. citizens of most European in Bangkok or any other im- The hot season, from May to countries, Australia, and the migration office in Thailand. June, can be unbearable, US, can enter Thailand for up Over-staying a visa carries a while the rainy season, which to 30 days without a pre- fine of 500 baht per day and generally lasts from June to arranged visa. However, proof can result in serious penalties. September, is the least predict- of a confirmed return flight or Travelers to Thailand should able of the three periods. other ongoing travel arrange- have at least six months val- Climate and rainfall charts ments must be presented upon idity left on their passport. can be found on pages 36–7. arrival. For those wishing to stay longer, a 60-day tourist IMMUNIZATION WHAT TO TAKE visa can be arranged from a Thai embassy or consulate There are no immunization As the climate in Thailand is prior to arrival in Thailand. requirements unless a visitor generally hot and humid, it A 90-day non-immigrant visa is from a country known to is advisable to dress in cool must be applied for in the vis- be infected with yellow fever. clothes made from natural itor’s home country and It is recommended that visitors fibers. Throughout Thailand, requires a letter of verification be immunized against polio, the rainy season brings sudden from a Thai source giving a tetanus, typhoid, and hepatitis A. In addition, those traveling to remote areas, or who are staying more than three weeks should get BCG (tuber- culosis), hepatitis B, rabies, diphtheria, and Japanese encephalitis vaccinations. For the latest information, contact a doctor, who can advise on the current guidelines for the prevention of diseases such as malaria.

CUSTOMS INFORMATION

Customs regulations in Thailand are standard. During Relaxing under shady beach umbrellas at Hat Kata Noi, Phuket an inbound flight, travelers

Picturesque beach at Ko Phi Phi Don, lined with longtail fishing boats PRACTICAL INFORMATION 353

will be given a customs form FACILITIES FOR that must be filled and handed THE DISABLED over at the customs desk after claiming baggage. Thai cus- There are few facilities for toms restrictions for goods disabled travelers in Thailand. carried into the country in- Sidewalks can be uneven and clude 200 cigarettes and one pedestrian bridges are often liter of wine or spirits. For accessed only by steep steps. complete details about export Wheelchair access is limited declarations, duty payments, to luxury hotels in major cities. and VAT refunds visit The Public transport, including Customs Department website. buses and Skytrains is inac- Carrying of drugs, firearms, or cessible for the disabled and pornography is prohibited. even the Suvarnabhumi Antiques and images of the International Airport has few Buddha are not allowed out elevators or disabled access of Thailand without authoriza- toilet facilities. The easiest tion. If visitors wish to export way to travel is to book an such items, they must first con- organized tour (see p365) or tact the Fine Arts Department Buddha images wrapped and ready contact the Association of of the National Museum in for sale in Bangkok Physically Handicapped People Bangkok at least five days for information. before the date of shipment 400 baht as admission fee. to fill in a form accompanied Some museums in Thailand FACILITIES FOR CHILDREN by two frontal photographs of have free entry, but others the object being purchased. may charge up to 200 baht. The larger hotels in Thailand However, contemporary works Occasionally, foreigners may have babysitting services, and of art, such as paintings, do be charged a higher admission TAT offers advice on attrac- not fall under this category. It fee than locals. tions that have special appeal is also illegal to leave Thailand to kids, such as zoos and with more than 50,000 baht OPENING HOURS amusement parks. Hats and without authorization. sunblock are a must for chil- Most destinations and sights dren (as well as adults) out in Thailand can be visited in the tropical sun. throughout the year, although accommodations on, and ferry LANGUAGE services to, some of the south- ern islands are limited in the It is useful to learn a few Thai rainy season. In general, major phrases (see pp382–5), and tourist attractions open at 8am Thais will be delighted with or 9am and close between the effort. Many local people 3:30pm and 6pm. A few places in popular tourist towns also shut for lunch between speak some English, as do noon and 1pm. Most major most hotel receptionists. Sight sights open daily, but a few and road names in these museums close for public areas are transliterated, and holidays as well as on menus are often in English as Content pages of some popular Mondays and Tuesdays. well as Thai. Prices and road destinations from TAT’s e-brochures Large department stores are numbers are generally in usually open 10am–9pm, and Arabic numerals. TOURIST INFORMATION smaller shops are open 8am–9pm. In The many branches of the smaller towns, there Tourism Authority of Thailand are daily markets. (TAT) are very helpful, offer- Commercial offices ing plenty of information on are open 8am to sights and festivals, as well as noon and 1–5pm maps, brochures, guides, and Monday to Friday. posters. They also have a Government offices useful list of reputable travel are open 8:30am to agents and hotels. noon and 1–4:30pm Monday to Friday. ADMISSION CHARGES During the Chinese New Year, many Admission charges to sights in businesses may Thailand generally range from close. For details of 10–50 baht. National parks, banking hours see however, charge either 200 or page 358. Tourist information center, Than Bok Koranee 354 SURVIVAL GUIDE

THAI TIME SYSTEM PHOTOGRAPHY AND CALENDAR Digital photography is popular Bangkok time is seven hours in Thailand. Photography ahead of Greenwich Mean shops are quite easy to find, Time (GMT), 12 hours ahead and they make prints or load of Eastern Standard Time, and digital images on to a disk at 15 hours ahead of Pacific very reasonable rates. Those Standard Time. using film may find it slightly Two calendars are used in harder to obtain, although Thailand – the Gregorian there are several professional (Western) and the Buddhist photography stores in the calendars. The Buddhist Era capital Bangkok. (BE) starts 543 years before the Gregorian era, thus AD 1957 is ETIQUETTE the equivalent of 2,500 BE. Two Thais addressing each other It is not without reason that with a wai, the traditional greeting ELECTRICITY Thailand is often referred to as “the land of smiles”. Thais even in formal situations. The The electric current for the are exceptionally friendly and polite form of address is the whole of Thailand is 220 volts helpful people, and getting gender-neutral title Khun, fol- AC. Dual-prong rounded pin along with them is easy. A lowed by the first name or plugs as well as flat-pin plugs few taboos do exist, however, nickname. Every Thai person can be used in sockets. Major mostly with regard to the has a nickname, usually a hotels in Bangkok also have monarchy and Buddhism. one- or two-syllable name 110-volt outlets for electric Visitors should be particularly with a simple meaning, such razors. Adaptors can be bought careful to behave respectfully as Moo, which means pig, or from any department store or at wats and in front of any Koong, which means shrimp. electrical store. These outlets image of the Buddha. also sell power-surge cables, Confrontation is considered BODY LANGUAGE which are vital if one is travel- extremely rude. Losing one’s ing with a laptop. It is advis- temper or shouting is seen as The head is considered a able for visitors traveling to an embarrassing loss of face. sacred part of the body by smaller towns or villages to Bargaining is quite common Thais, so touching someone’s keep a flashlight handy. throughout the country, but it head, even that of a child, is best to avoid getting too should be avoided. The feet CONVERSIONS loud or aggressive. are seen as the lowliest part Tipping on the other hand is of the body and to point the US to Metric not as common a practice in feet toward someone or rest 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters Thailand, as it is in the West. them on a table is considered 1 foot = 30 centimeters rude. When sitting on the 1 mile = 2 kilometers GREETING PEOPLE floor, especially inside a tem- 1 ounce = 28 grams ple, it is best to tuck one’s 1 pound = 454 grams The Thai greeting is known legs behind or to the side and 1 gallon = 3.79 liters as the wai and consists of the avoid stepping over others. palms being pressed together Metric to US and lifted toward the chin. SMOKING 1 millimeter = 0.04 inch Traditionally, the inferior 1 centimeter = 0.4 inch party initiates the wai and Smoking is prohibited in all 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches holds it higher and for longer public areas and on all public 1 kilometer = 1 mile than the superior, who returns . It is 1 gram = 0.04 ounces it according to his or her also banned in restaurants as 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds social standing. Thais use first well as in pubs. 1 liter = 2.1 pints names to address people, ROYALTY

The royal family is the most revered institution in Thailand. Criticizing or defaming it in any way can be considered as an affront to the monarchy. Not only could this mean a jail sentence, but Thai people will nearly always be deeply offended. Coins, bills, and A range of plugs and stamps bear the images of adaptors that can be Thai kings and should be used in Thailand treated respectfully by visitors. PRACTICAL INFORMATION 355

THE NATIONAL DIRECTORY ANTHEM VISAS AND PASSPORTS The national anthem is played twice daily, at Immigration Department 8am and 6pm, on radio Soi Suanphlu, Sathorn Tai Rd, and through tannoys in Bangkok. City Map 8 D5. smaller towns and some Tel 0-2287-3101. www. public spaces. It is polite immigration.go.th to stop whatever one is doing and stand still. In CUSTOMS INFORMATION theaters, the national The Customs Department anthem is played before 1 Sunthornkhosa Rd, Khlong Toey, all performances. The Bangkok. Tel 0-2667-7100. audience stands in silent Surin Islands National Park regulations www.customs.go.th respect to a portrait of the king. SUITABLE DRESS Fine Arts Department National Museum, 1 Na Phra That MONKS Thais are a modest people, Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. so visitors, especially women, City Map 1 C4. The (monkhood) is a must remember to wear Tel 0-2224-1370. respected institution, second clothes that are not too only to the monarchy. Most revealing. Topless sunbathing TOURIST INFORMATION taboos in dealing with monks is frowned upon everywhere. concern women. It is prohib- Tourism Authority ited for a monk to touch a RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL of Thailand woman or to receive anything 1,600 New Phetchaburi Rd, directly from her. When travel- Thai authorities are now Bangkok. City Map 7 A3. ing by public transportation, actively promoting eco-tourism Tel 1672. www.tourism women should avoid sitting by creating awareness of the thailand.org next to a monk. need for conservation through various means. They are FACILITIES FOR ETIQUETTE AT prohibiting locals from THE DISABLED WATS fishing with dynamite, Association of Physically and drag-netting coral Handicapped People Decorum should be reefs, and encouraging 73/7–8 Tivanond Rd, Talad Kwan, observed when entering tourists to “leave nothing Nonthaburi. Tel 0-2951-0567. any wat. Temples are “No shoes” but your footprints”. sign quiet places, so visitors Ecologically aware EMBASSIES should try to avoid disturbing dive companies visiting marine the peace. The clothes one parks such as Similan and Canada wears must be clean and Surin, forbid visitors from tak- 15th Floor, Abdulrahim Place, respectable. Shoes must be ing away even a seashell, and 990 Rama 4 Rd, Bangkok. removed before entering any in extreme cases will “name Tel 0-2636-0540. wat. All Buddha images are and shame” those who violate Malaysia sacred, even small, ruined, or this basic rule. Similarly, neglected ones. Visitors must visitors are increasingly dis- 33–35 South Sathorn Rd, never sit with their feet point- couraged from taking plastic Bangkok. Tel 0-2629-6800. ing toward them. bags and water bottles into Myanmar (Burma) national parks. With increasing 132 Sathorn Nua Rd, Bangkok. awareness, the kingdom is Tel 0-2233-2237. already more engaged than its Southeast Asian neighbors in United Kingdom promoting responsible travel. 1031 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd, However, the government’s Bangkok. Tel 0-2305-8333. efforts have been thwarted by United States environmentally destructive 95 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd, shrimp farms, expensive, Bangkok. Tel 0-2205-4000. water-intensive golf courses, the clearing of natural forests for palm oil plantations, and and refusing to eat food even the breeding of tigers in derived from endangered spe- captivity for their body parts. cies such as shark’s fin soup Visitors can set an example and sea turtle eggs or meat. by carefully disposing off Most Thais are sensitive, so garbage, choosing to boycott setting an example will cer- Devotees kneeling before a shrine noisy and polluting water- tainly help kick-start Thailand’s with their feet facing away sports such as jet scooters, nascent eco-tourism industry. 356 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Personal Health and Security Thailand is a fairly safe country, and simple health and safety precautions keep the vast majority of travelers out of trouble. The infrastructure of emergency services for both health and crime is efficient throughout Bangkok and other larger towns. As a rule of thumb, the more remote the area, the higher the health risk and less support available in the event of any mishap. The main hospitals in Bangkok, the main islands, as well as other large cities have modern equipment and well-trained doctors, many of whom speak good English. Even on smaller beaches and islands, medical facilities have improved dramatically in recent times. Tourist policeman wearing a beret, and an ordinary officer for shopping. Drugging and robbing tourists on long- TAT offices. They help with distance trains and buses has anything from credit card occurred, so politely decline scams to excessive surcharges. food or drink from strangers. They are also helpful in emer- gencies, and can act as an DRUGS English-speaking liaison. The Bangkok branch of the tourist Thai law prohibits the sale or police is located close to purchase of opium, heroin, or Lumphini Park (see p74). marijuana. Charges for pos- session, smuggling, or dealing MEDICAL FACILITIES can lead to a 2–15 year jail sentence or, in extreme cases, Medical insurance is advisable the death sentence. when traveling in Thailand. A well stocked pharmacy in Ban Private hospitals such as Bophut, Ko Samui DANGER SPOTS Phuket International Hospital in Phuket, Bangkok General IN AN EMERGENCY In some parts of the Deep Hospital and Bumrungrad South, the militant Malay- Hospital in Bangkok, as well For English-speaking help, Muslim group, PULO (Pattani as other public hospitals, are call the Tourist Assistance United Liberation Organiza- modern, clean, and efficient. Center, which will contact the tion) can be dangerous. It is Waiting times are longer in appropriate service. Lines are wise to stay away from the public hospitals, but their open from 8am to midnight, remote border areas. doctors are trained abroad. after which visitors will have Outside the capital, the best to rely on English-speaking WOMEN TRAVELERS facilities are in the large towns. hotel staff. During office For dental or eye care, hours, TAT (see p355) may Female travelers are unlikely to however, it is best to seek also be able to help. The be harassed in Thailand. The treatment in Bangkok. Metropolitan Mobile Police coastal areas are quite safe for covers general emergencies in women, as are hotels. Taxis PHARMACIES Bangkok. All Bangkok hospi- are readily available. tals have 24-hour trauma and There are plenty of pharmacies emergency departments. TOURIST POLICE in Bangkok and the coastal areas. They are all well GENERAL PRECAUTIONS There are tourist police stations stocked and can dispense in Bangkok, Ko Samui, antibiotics over the counter, Bangkok and the coastal areas Pattaya, and Phuket. Tourist without a prescription. Most are relatively safe. Usually dis- police officers all speak some pharmacies are open from cretion and sobriety are the English and are 8am–9pm. In small towns, best means of avoiding prob- attached to however, pharmacies are lems. Be on guard at tourist less prolific. sights, and at bus and train stations. It is advisable not to flash large amounts of cash or leave luggage unattended. If leaving valuables in a hotel safe, make sure to get a receipt, and do not let credit cards out of sight when paying Patrol car used by the tourist police, seen mainly in cities PRACTICAL INFORMATION 357

COPING WITH THE HEAT DIRECTORY

It is not advisable to exert IN AN EMERGENCY oneself for the first few days. Drink lots of fluids, take plenty Ambulance of rest in the shade, and Tel 1554 (across Thailand). avoid being out in the midday Metropolitan Mobile sun. Once acclimatized, con- tinue a high intake of fluids, Police especially bottled water, or Tel 191 (Bangkok). special electrolyte drinks. Tourist Assistance Center The tropical sun is very Tel 1155 (Bangkok). powerful; a good sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat are Tourist Police therefore indispensable. Bangkok Tel 0-2308-0936 or Spicy street food, best avoided by 1155. FIRST-AID KIT those with a delicate stomach Ko Samui Tel 0-7742-1281 or 1155. A basic first-aid kit should in the US, the Tourist Pattaya Tel 0-3841-0044 or include any personal medica- Assistance Center, for infor- 1155. tion; aspirin or pain killers for mation on health matters. Phuket Tel 0-7635 4360 or 1155. fevers and minor aches and Malarial mosquitoes are Trat Tel 0-3953-8091 or 1155. pains; an antiseptic for cuts active from sundown till and bites; a digestive pill or sunrise, so use plenty of MEDICAL FACILITIES syrup to soothe an upset stom- repellent, wear long-sleeved ach; insect repellent; bandages; clothing and use mosquito Bangkok General scissors, tweezers, as well as nets and coils. Another mos- Hospital a thermometer. quito-borne disease, dengue Soi Soonvijai, New Phetchaburi Rd. fever, is a risk during the City Map 6 E1. Tel 0-2310-3000. MINOR STOMACH daytime. However, few mos- www.bangkokhospital.com UPSETS quitoes are infected with the virus, and the symptoms, Bumrungrad Hospital Should diarrhea occur, eat although intense and Sukhumvit, Soi 3. City Map 8 F1. plain food for a few days and unpleasant, are rarely fatal. Tel 0-2667-1000. www. drink plenty of fluids. It is not These include fever, head- bumrungrad.com wise to drink tap water – ache, severe joint and muscle bottled water is readily avail- pains, and a rash. No preven- Phuket International able across the country. Ice tive treatment or vaccination Hospital should be fine in main hotels is available. 44 Chalermprakiat Ror 9 Rd. and restaurants, but Tel 0-7624-9400. www. crushed iced drinks PEOPLE- AND ANIMAL- phuketinternationalhospital.com from street vendors BORNE DISEASES are best avoided. Drugs such as Acquired Immune Deficiency FOOD- AND WATER- Lomotil and Imodium Syndrome (AIDS) is BORNE DISEASES can bring relief from passed through bodily diarrhea, but rehydrat- fluids. The high turn- Dysentery is a severe form of ing solutions, available over of Thailand’s food or water poisoning. at pharmacies, are means Bacillary dysentery, character- usually the best Mosquito that unprotected sex ized by stomach pain, remedy. For immediate repellents carries a serious risk. vomiting, and fever, is highly relief, a single 500 mg Blood transfusion contagious but rarely lasts dose of Ciprofloxacin is safe methods in Thailand are not longer than a week. Amebic and effective. always reliable and it is saf- dysentery has similar symp- est to seek treatment only in toms but takes longer to INSECT-BORNE DISEASES the main hospitals. The same develop. Medical help should goes for inoculations – make be sought without delay. Seven of Thailand’s 410 sure needles are new or Hepatitis A is passed on in mosquito species carry malaria. bring a personal supply. conditions of poor sanitation, Symptoms of the disease Hepatitis B is also trans- contaminated water or food, include headache, fever, and mitted through bodily fluids. and can now be prevented violent chills. Visitors experi- Symptoms include fever, with a vaccine. Typhoid is also encing such symptoms, should nausea, fatigue, and jaundice, transmitted through contami- seek medical advice. and it can severely damage nated water or food. Medical The main towns and islands the liver. A prophylactic vac- attention is essential as com- are largely free of malarial cine is available. Vaccines plications such as pneumonia mosquitoes. For latest infor- are also available for rabies can occur. The available vac- mation, call a travel clinic or, and tetanus. cine is not always reliable. 358 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Banking and Local Currency Throughout Bangkok and the main provincial towns such as Krabi and Surat Thani, banking facilities and exchange services Commercial Bank are plentiful, well run, and easy credit card logo to access. In the major centers, tellers often speak some English. Exchange booths are usually located in the central parts HSBC, an international bank of towns, and mobile exchange units are stationed near operating in Bangkok larger tourist attractions. Automatic Teller Machines (ATMs) can be found in all cities. Smaller towns are less transactions. For visitors likely to have exchange facilities, but most have banks planning to stay in Thailand or ATMs. Rural villages, unless they are tourist spots, for several months or more, it might be a good idea to might not have banking or currency exchange services. open an account at a Thai bank. This would allow BANKS AND access to any ATM or bank BANKING HOURS without having to worry about exchange rates or inter- The three main banks in provincial charges on Thai Thailand are the Bangkok ATM cards. Bank, the Kasikorn Bank, and the Siam Commercial CHANGING MONEY Bank. The Bank of Ayudhya and Bankthai along with sev- Banks usually offer the best eral smaller but reliable banks exchange rates, and rates dif- have branches throughout the fer little between banks. country. Foreign banks such Hotels usually offer the worst as Bank of America, Citibank, rates, while those at exchange Deutsche Bank, HSBC, and booths can vary greatly. US Standard Chartered Bank dollars are the most widely offer full commercial banking accepted foreign currency services in Bangkok and when buying baht, although operate major branches. sterling is also accepted. In Banking hours are generally Automatic Teller Machines, found in Bangkok, small exchange 8:30am–3:30pm, Monday Bangkok and many Thai towns booths can be found in most to Friday. Some banks have major department stores, branches in department stores ATM SERVICES shopping malls, and on big which are open 8am–8pm. roads. Mobile exchange units Exchange booths are open Most ATMs provide instructions can often be found near tour- daily through the day. Apart in both Thai and English. Any ist attractions and around from providing banking serv- ATM displaying the VISA or market areas. These are ices, the major banks can also MasterCard sign will accept generally open every day organize international money these cards and dispense cash 7am–9pm. Exchange rates transfers. Most banks in cities in baht using the regular PIN. are published in the Bangkok have an associated ATM. There are surcharges for such Post and the Nation. DIRECTORY BANKS Bankthai HSBC Standard Chartered 44 Sathorn Nua, Bangkok. Rama IV Rd, Bangkok. Bank Bangkok Bank City Map 7 B5. City Map 7 A1. 990, Rama IV Rd, 333 Silom Rd, Bangkok. Tel 0-2633-9000. Tel 0-2614-4000. Bangkok. City Map 7 B4. City Map 7 C4. www.bankthai.co.th Tel 0-2724-4000. Tel 0-2231-4333. Kasikorn Bank 1 Thai Farmers Lane, Citibank CREDIT CARDS Bank of America Ratburana Rd, Bangkok. CRC Tower, 33rd Floor 82 Sathorn Nua, Bangkok. Tel 0-2222-0000. American Express Wireless Rd, Bangkok. City Map 7 A4. Siam Commercial Tel 0-2273-5544. City Map 7 A1. Tel 0-2232-2000. Bank Tel 0-2305-2800. MasterCard Deutsche Bank 9 Ratchadaphisak Rd, Tel 001-800-11-887-0663. Bank of Ayudhya 208 Wireless Rd, Bangkok. Bangkok. City Map 4 E3. 1222 Rama 3, Bangkok. City Map 7 A1. Tel 0-2544-1111. VISA Tel 0-2296-2000. Tel 0-2651-5000. www.scb.co.th Tel 001-800-441-3485. PRACTICAL INFORMATION 359

CREDIT CARDS TRAVELERS’ CHECKS

Credit cards are accepted Travelers’ checks are the safest in major hotels, department Logo for one of Thailand’s way to carry money and can stores, and upscale shops and long-established banks be encashed at banks, hotels, restaurants. They can also be and exchange booths. Banks used at major banks (and (brown). Finding change for provide the lowest surcharge some exchange kiosks) for large denomination notes in and charge a fee per check, cash advances. A surcharge rural areas can be difficult. so cashing large amounts will be applied. VISA and The coin denominations are works out the cheapest. MasterCard are the most 25 satang or 1 (saleung), 50 widely accepted cards; the satang, 1 baht, 2 baht, 5 baht, VAT use of American Express and 10 baht. Possible confu- cards are more limited. sion over different sized coins Thailand imposes a 7 percent All Thai commercial banks of the same denomination is Value Added Tax (VAT) on accept cash withdrawals from becoming less likely as the goods and services. Tourists both MasterCard and Visa older and larger 1 and 5 baht can redeem purchases above credit or debit cards. Visitors coins are gradually being 5,000 baht at the customs may need to show their pass- phased out in favor of smaller counter at airports against ports at these transactions. versions. Old coins have Thai bonafide receipts. Credit and debit cards can numerals only, also be used at local ATMs, while newer coins but a surcharge will be levied. have both Thai and As the popularity of plastic Arabic numerals. money increases, so too does o T$ the incidence of credit-card fraud and travelers should HNE always carefully check bills 2  before they sign. o T$ 20 baht CURRENCY HNE The Thai unit of currency is 2 k the baht, usually seen abbre- viated to “B”. There are 100 50 baht satang in a baht, but the satang represents such a small sum today that it is scarcely o T$ used. 25 satang is sometimes known as a saleung. How- NNE ever, inflation is rendering this 2 k colloquial term redundant. 100 baht Banknotes come in different T$ sizes and colors. They are o available in denominations HNE of 20 baht (green), 50 baht 2 k (blue), 100 baht (red), 500 baht (purple), and 1,000 baht 500 baht

Coins come in the following denominations: o T$ 2 k HNE

1,000 baht

25 satang 50 satang

1 baht 2 baht 5 baht 10 baht 360 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media Thailand’s communication network is becoming increasingly sophisticated. The telephone system is run by the Telephone Organization of Thailand (TOT) under the umbrella of the Communications Authority Wireless of Thailand (CAT). It is possible to make Internet sign international calls and send faxes from all business centers and hotels. Public phones are found on most roads while cell phone networks have pene- trated the whole country. The postal system, however, can be erratic and it is advisable to use a courier ser- A card-phone for local and vice for valuables. Major international, as well as local long-distance domestic calls English language newspapers and magazines are found domestic service covers calls in hotels, bookstores, and newsstands. Internet and within different regions of Wi-Fi facilities are available even in the smaller towns. Thailand, as well as to Malaysia and Laos. INTERNATIONAL CALLS international operator at 100. Blue and yellow international CELL PHONES All major hotels and most pay phones are found on guesthouses offer international streets, shopping malls, and Cell phones are extremely dialing services, airports. The blue cheap in Thailand. SIM cards although there is a phones take credit can be bought from mobile surcharge levied cards while the yel- phone shops, but visitors well above the call low phones can be must present a form of identi- charges. Business used with stored fication, such as a passport. centers and Internet Phone card for value cards, sold in Customers can pay through cafés in small towns international calls post offices and by scratch cards with a dial-in usually offer e-mail authorized agents. code to top up their credits. and phone services. Bangkok’s Cards range from 50–500 baht Central Post Office on Charoen LOCAL CALLS in value and are sold in mini- Krung New Road and some marts throughout the country. major post offices around the Local calls can be made from In most of Thailand’s coastal country have a CAT center any public pay phone other areas, cell phone coverage that can arrange, collect, and than the blue and yellow is good. Of the several service credit card calls. In Bangkok, international pay phones. providers, AIS has the best these are open from 7am to Domestic calls can be made coverage but is exp ensive. midnight, with reduced hours from blue and silver coin Any island with an indigenous in the provinces. To dial from phones or green card-phones. population now also has good a hotel room, contact the Coin-operated phones accept coverage. Weak signals might desk, or dial 001 (for an inter- 1, 5, and 10-baht coins where- cause problems within the national line) followed by the as cards for card-phones can larger national parks. country code and telephone be bought at post offices, number. It is also possible to bookstores, and hotels and TELEVISION AND RADIO use 007, 008, or 009 to prefix come in denominations of 25 your number, to get cheaper baht, 50 baht, 100 baht, and Thailand has many television rates. Alternatively, dial the 250 baht. The long-distance channels and programs are mostly in Thai, although in Bangkok, some are broadcast with an English simulcast on FM radio. Satellite and cable networks are fast expanding all over Asia, and most inter- national English language networks such as BBC, CNN, Al Jazeera, and CNBC are readily available. Many hotels provide satellite and cable tele- vision as well as an in-house video channel. Visitors should check the Bangkok Post and The Nation for details. There are more than 400 radio stations operating on a Cell phone networks enabling communication on offshore islands nationwide scale. English PRACTICAL INFORMATION 361 language stations manned DIRECTORY by local RJs are listed in the Outlook section of COURIER SERVICES the Bangkok Post. The national public radio DHL station, Radio Thailand, 209 K Tower A 12th Floor, broadcasts English- Sukhumvit 21 Rd, Bangkok. language programs Tel 0-2345-5000. www.dhl.co.th on 107 and 105 FM 24 FedEx hours a day, and listings for Green Tower, 3656/22 Rama IV, shortwave frequencies that Bangkok. City Map 8 E4. Tel receive BBC, VOA, Radio The Nation, one of Bangkok’s 1782. www.fedex.com.th Australia, Radio Canada, RFI leading business newspapers (French), and Deutsche Welle UPS are found in the Focus section and Newsweek are also widely 16/1 Soi 44/1 Sukhumvit Rd, of The Nation. available. Among the local Bangkok. Tel 0-2762-3300. English language monthly www.ups.com NEWSPAPERS AND publications are the useful MAGAZINES listings guide Bangkok 101 with information on city- To claim mail from general The best English language based events and reviews and delivery, visitors must show newspapers in Thailand are the society rag Thailand their passport and sometimes the Bangkok Post and The Tatler. In addition to these, pay a small fee. Letters should Nation. Both these publica- helpful free guides are availa- be addressed to the visitor tions provide reliable local, ble in restaurants, bars, and (with the last name written in regional, and international bookstores and include BK capitals and underlined), coverage. The daily supple- Magazine, Absolute Lifestyle GPO, address, town, and ments, Outlook (Bangkok Magazine, and Thaiways. Thailand. Thus for Bangkok’s Post) and Focus (The Nation), main GPO, correspondents include features on lifestyle, MAIL should send mail written as travel, human interest, as well care of GPO, Charoen Krung as listings for restaurants, Letters and postcards usually Road, Bangkok. Larger post films, concerts, and exhibi- take at least one week to offices are usually open 8am– tions in Bangkok. Both are reach Europe and North 8pm Monday to Friday and widely sold in news America from Thailand. 8am–1pm on weekends. kiosks and shops Stamps are available Smaller post offices in cities, throughout Bangkok. at all post offices and and in most provincial towns, The International can also be bought at are generally open 8:30am– Herald Tribune and many hotels. Packages 4:30pm, Monday to Friday the Asian Wall Street and valuable items and 9am to noon on Saturdays. Journal are sold in should be sent by hotels and English- registered mail or via INTERNET ACCESS language bookstores such as Asia Books and Mail (EMS). General Internet access is available all Bookazine, which also delivery facilities are over Thailand. Charges range stock a good selec- available at all main from 20 baht an hour in a tion of international post offices in the local Internet café to 250 baht magazines. News country. Letters will an hour in an upscale hotel. weeklies including Easily identifiable normally be held for Wireless connection hotspots The Economist, Time, Thai mailbox up to three months. are becoming very common, even in the provinces. Once a monopoly, Internet services USEFUL DIALING CODES are now provided by a • For international calls, • For directory assistance number of companies. dial 001, 007, 008, or 009 dial 1133 from anywhere in followed by country code. the country. COURIER SERVICES To put a call through the • For domestic calls dial a international operator, or to 9-digit number for Bangkok Main international courier report technical problems, beginning with (02) and a companies, such as DHL, dial 100. 10-digit number for other FedEx, and UPS operate in • Country codes are: UK provinces. Callers need to Thailand, so it is easy to send 44; Ireland 353; France 33; dial 08 before calling a goods by air freight. However, US and Canada 1; Australia mobile phone. for very large items, such as 61; New Zealand 64. It may • To speak to the domestic furniture, shipping is usually be neccessary to omit the operator, dial 101. more affordable. Many shops first digit of the destination • To make a domestic or courier companies can area code. reverse charge call dial 101. arrange this as well as provide the necessary paperwork. 362 SURVIVAL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION or most visitors, flying is the are booked within Thailand. Rail most convenient way of get- services run on a regular basis Fting to Thailand’s beaches between Bangkok and Singapore, and islands – other routes are by via Kuala Lumpur, Butterworth, ferry, road, or rail from Malaysia and some southern Thai towns. and Cambodia. Domestic flights Logo of a Rail travel is both comfortable within Thailand are easy and popular airline and efficient. Long-distance and reduce the traveling time considerably, provincial buses run to all towns and with several provincial airports located most villages. For local transportation, around the country. Flights to neighbor- visitors can choose between a variety ing countries are often cheaper if they of taxis, songthaews, and tuk-tuks.

ARRIVING BY AIR SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Thailand is served by many different airlines. Direct flights After years of planning and are available from North numerous delays, Bangkok’s America, Europe, Australasia, Suvarnabhumi International Africa, and Asia. A flight from Airport opened in September License plates of a taxi with yellow the US may entail an over- 2006. Located 18 miles (29 km) and black registration numbers night stay in Japan or Taiwan. east of the capital, this is one Thai Airways International of the busiest airports in Asia. operates direct flights from Suvarnabhumi is used for all Los Angeles to Bangkok. international flights as well as British Airways, United many domestic ones. Airlines, and Delta Airlines Arriving passengers enter have a connecting service the terminal on the second Pale green registration plates of from New York. Some flights floor of the concourse build- an airport limousine from Asia land at Phuket, Hat ings. After passing through Yai, and Ko Samui. Other the passport checkpoints and expressway charges, and international airlines operating customs, they can proceed to would take around 45 min- in Thailand are Qantas Airlines the arrivals hall, where they utes, depending on traffic. and Singapore Airlines. Low- will find transportation and Passengers may also make cost carriers operating in the accommodation counters, as use of the shuttle bus. domestic circuit and within well as a tourist information People traveling to the Asia include Bangkok Airways, center. A meeting point on airport are strongly advised Air Asia, and Nok Air. the third floor allows passen- to allow at least one hour gers to get to their next desti- for travel time and to take AIR FARES nation as well as get any the expressway. Check-ins, required information. particularly at the Thai The cost of air tickets to and Airways International counter, from Thailand vary according GETTING TO AND FROM are often subject to delays. to the destination, the airline, SUVARNABHUMI The walk from the passport and the time of year. In coun- INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT checkpoint to the flight tries in the northern hemi- lounge is also long. sphere, low fares to Thailand Metered taxis are available A direct BTS Skytrain link to are available from September outside the first floor. There is Suvarnabhumi Airport is to April, while in the southern a surcharge of 50 baht in scheduled to open in 2010. hemisphere, cheap tickets can addition to the meter fare. usually be booked between A trip into the city will cost DOMESTIC FLIGHTS March and November. roughly 400 baht, including A number of domestic flights from Bangkok leave from the Don Muang Airport which serves the domestic flights of all local budget carriers. Thai Airways International and Bangkok Airways fly to all major domestic destina- tions such as Hat Yai, Ko Samui, Krabi, and Phuket. Air tickets can be bought through An aircraft displaying the colors and logo of Thai Airways International travel agents and hotels, or TRAVEL INFORMATION 363

DIRECTORY ARRIVING BY AIR

Air Asia Tel 0-2515-9999. www.airasia.com Bangkok Airways Tel 0-2270-6699. www.bangkokair.com British Airways Tel 0-2627-1701; (0845) 773- 3377 (UK). Beautiful interiors created out of natural products at Ko www.britishairways.com booked directly through the to use Gasohol, a gas which Delta Airlines airlines. On public holidays combines fuel derived from Tel 0-2660-6900; (800) 221- (see p37) and on weekends, sugar cane with ordinary ben- 1212 (US). www.delta.com when there are more people zene. Both LPG and Gasohol Nok Air traveling, it can be difficult to are to some extent subsidized Tel 0-2900-9955. get a flight; visitors are advised by the government to encour- www.nokair.com to book tickets in advance or age their use. Leaded gas has travel on weekdays. almost been phased out. Qantas Airlines Other ways to minimize an Tel 0-2236-2800; (0845) 774- GREEN TRAVEL individual traveler’s carbon 7767 (UK). www.qantas.com footprint is by using shared Travel around Thailand’s taxis, buses, and ferries rather Singapore Airlines beaches and islands is easy, than flying or hiring longtail Tel 0-2353-6000; convenient, and cheaply boats. Although motorcycles (800) 742-3333 (US). priced, but not very eco- remain the most common www.singaporeair.com friendly. Most visitors travel way of getting around on the Thai Airways by train and long-distance smaller islands, it is best to International buses, these being less avoid the environmentally Tel 0-2356-1111; (800) 426- polluting. Hired cars are unfriendly and noisy two 5204 (US). www.thaiair.com also preferred by many, but stroke motorcycles. The most they are not very eco-friendly. green and healthy way to United Airlines Thailand’s roads are well travel and explore the local Tel 0-2253-0558; (800) 825- maintained although driving sights of any area is by foot 9035 (US). www.united.com may be hazardous at times, or on a bicycle. especially in remote areas. The rising price of gas and the prevalent pollution in large cities has caused the introduction of the less polluting and environment- friendly Liquid Petroleum Gas (LPG). However, this is still work in progress and few self-driven vehicles use LPG yet. There are hardly any LPG stations outside the major cities. Another alternative is Visitors traveling between various offshore islands on public ferries

TEL DISTANCE TO AVERAGE TAXI AVERAGE JOURNEY AIRPORT INFORMATION TOWN OR RESORT FARE TIME Bangkok: 0-2535-1111 City center Rail: 50 minutes 300 baht Don Muang 0-2535-1253 12 miles (19 km) Road: 1–2 hours Bangkok: City center 0-2132-1888 400 baht Road: 45 minutes Suvarnabhumi 16 miles (26 km) City center Hat Yai 0-7422-7231 200 baht Road: 25 minutes 7 miles (12 km) City center Phuket 0-7632-7230-7 550 baht Road: 45 minutes 18 miles (29 km) Chaweng Ko Samui 0-7742-8500 150 baht Road: 30 minutes 14 miles (22 km) 364 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Local Transportation After years of traffic congestion, Bangkok finally launched the BTS (Bangkok Mass Transit System) Skytrain in 1999, and an underground network in 2004. This well- maintained service, along with the Chao Sign for taxis Phraya Express Pier, has revolutionized and tuk-tuks travel in the capital. Transportation in the provinces is less frenetic with a choice of samlors (bicycle rickshaws), tuk-tuks (auto rickshaws), and songthaews (converted pickup trucks). Bargaining over fares is also a part of the Thai experience. Samlors, a common mode of transportation for short journeys

GETTING AROUND TAXIS outside Bangkok and run BANGKOK popular routes for set fares, Meter taxis operate all over typically between 20 and 40 In downtown Bangkok, the Bangkok and Hat Yai, distin- baht. There are no fixed efficient Skytrain has two guishable by the Taxi-Meter schedules for departure or lines – the Sukhumvit route sign on the roof. Drivers tend arrival as drivers wait until from Morchit Station in the to know the names and loca- they are at least half occupied north to On Nut Station in the tions of only the major hotels before starting out. Routes are east, and the Silom route from and sights. In non-meter taxis sometimes written in English National Stadium to Taksin (in Bangkok these are now on the sides of the vans. A Bridge in central Bangkok quite rare and not recom- songthaew can also be rented with an interchange mended at all), visitors like a taxi, but they are gener- between the two at will have to bargain ally less comfortable. the . The for the fare before Samlors are three-wheeled is getting in. non-motorized vehicles or being extended to Motorcycle taxis rickshaws that can transport Sukhumvit 105, and Brightly colored operate in some one or two people up to a the into tuk-tuk towns. Drivers tend few kilometers. Motorized Thonburi is now to congregate near samlors are also known as open. A direct BTS link to the markets and long sois and can tuk-tuks. Their two-stroke Suvarnabhumi airport is be identified by their colorful engines, introduced by the scheduled to open in 2010. numbered vests. Prices are Japanese during World War II, The MRT (Mass Rapid usually negotiable. are very noisy. In heavy traf- Transit) underground runs for fic or during the rainy season, 12 miles (19 km) from Hua SONGTHAEWS, SAMLORS tuk-tuks can be uncomfort- Lampong Station to Bang Sue. AND TUK-TUKS able and unstable, but are Other forms of city transport always popular with tourists. include riverboats, buses, lim- Songthaews, literally, two 30–60 baht is reasonable for ousines, and tour buses, rows, are vans or converted short trips. Visitors should do along with taxis, and tuk-tuks. pickup trucks with two rows some prior research and Express riverboats serve of seats in the back. They are negotiate a price before climb- popular piers on the Chao more common than city buses ing into either of the two. Phraya River. Ferries link the east and west banks, and it is possible to rent a longtail boat at some piers. One-way bus lanes make for speedy road transport. The Tourist Map Bangkok City and Tour “n” Guide Map to Bangkok show the routes. Blue air-conditioned buses, and white Metrobuses are comfortable and cover the popular routes. Non air- conditioned buses are cheap, cover all of Bangkok, and run into the night. Buses outside Bangkok are not easy to use for non-Thai speakers, but, tuk-tuks, songthaews, and taxis are readily available. A Skytrain pulling into a station in Bangkok TRAVEL INFORMATION 365

Organized Tours DIRECTORY Hundreds of tour companies are based in Bangkok BOOKING A TOUR and major resorts such as Phuket and Pattaya. Most Arlymear Travel hotels throughout the country also offer a variety of 6th Floor, CCT Building, 109 tours. Typical excursions range from daylong city tours Surawong Rd, Bangkok. to more comprehensive itineraries taking in different City Map 7 C3. Tel 0-2236- towns and sights over several days. Costs are generally 9317. www.arlymear.com higher, but using public transport within the city can be time consuming, especially in congested areas such as Diethelm Travel Greater Bangkok. The drawback of most organized 12th Floor, Kian Gwan Building II, 140/1 Witthayu Rd, Bangkok. tours is that there is no freedom of choice and there is City Map 7 B1. Tel 0-2660-7000. rarely any time to linger. www.diethelmtravel.com NS Travel & Tours 133/19–20 Ratchaprarop Rd, Bangkok. City Map 4 E4. Tel 0- 2642-6627. www.nstravel.com Regale International Travel 191/1-2 Soi Suksaviddhaya, Sathorn Nua Rd, Bangkok. City Map 7 B5. Tel 0-2635- 2450. www.regaleintl.com STA Travel 14th Floor, Wall Street Tower Building, Suriwong Rd, Bangkok. Booking counter for local transportation in the Eastern Seaboard City Map 2 E5. Tel 0-2236-0262. BOOKING A TOUR be booked just a day in www.statravel.co.th advance. Tours to more Thai Overlander It is often possible to book a distant sights should include Travel & Tour tour of Thailand from a pro- arrangements for accommo- 407 Sukhumvit Rd (between spective traveler’s home dations, and have at least one Sukhumvit Soi 21 and 23), country and the package usu- departure day each week. Bangkok. Tel 0-2258-4779. ally includes all travel and Tour companies often pick up www.thaioverlander.com accommodation arrange- visitors from their respective ments. Such all-inclusive tours hotels or guesthouses. World Travel Service Ltd typically last between one 1053 Charoen Krung Rd, Bangkok. and two weeks and include TOUR BUSES AND BOATS City Map 7 A4. Tel 0-2233- a few nights in Bangkok 5900. www.wts-thailand.com followed by excursions to Many tour operators use Hua Hin, Ko Samui, Krabi, VIP or luxury coaches, with or Phuket. Other packages reclining seats, refreshments, and quite safe. Boat tours are are more specialized, concen- air-conditioning, and a toilet. popular. Day trips to islands trating, say, on visiting Khao Air-conditioned minibuses are often include watersports. Lak or Phuket and trekking in also common, as well as jeeps Hotel transfers are also part of Khao Sok National Park (see for the remote areas. Most the deal. Boat trips to remote pp206–7), and may vary from vehicles are well maintained islands also usually come with a few days to several weeks onboard accommodations and in duration. Bangkok-based diving facilities. Diethelm Travel, Thai Overlander Travel & Tour, GUIDED TOURS Arlymear Travel, NS Travel & Tours, Regale International Bilingual guides accompany Travel, STA Travel, and World many tours, especially to Travel Service Ltd are major cultural sights such as Nakhon operators offering packages. Si Thammarat or Phetchaburi. Most regional hotels and For diving and snorkeling many guesthouses also offer trips, a qualified guide is tours, or are in contact with essential for safety reasons. local tour companies. The The quality of guides and local TAT office will also be tours vary and listings of able to recommend reputable reputable guided tours along tour companies. Day trips to Speedboats ready to take tourists with good maps are published the most popular sights can to the Similan Islands by the provincial TAT offices. 366 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Train, Bus, and Boat The State Railway of Thailand (SRT) has four major lines connecting Bangkok with other parts of the country. Although trains are safe and comfortable, they are slow and the number of towns on the network is limited. Railway Phuket, Krabi, and Trang, for instance, do crossing sign not have train stations. By contrast, long- distance buses connect all major cities to Bangkok, while provincial buses serve smaller towns and villages. Ferry services serve the main islands.

RAILROAD NETWORK Second-class coaches have Fountain at the entrance to Hua reclining seats and a choice of Lampong Station, Bangkok Bangkok’s main station, the fan-cooled or air-conditioned 87-year old Hua Lampong coaches. Sleepers in this class should remember that tickets Station, serves all four major have individual seats that are in peak periods (weekends lines and over 130 trains to converted into curtained-off and holidays) can be sold different parts of Thailand. beds at night. Toilets (there out days in advance. Hua The first line runs to should be at least Lampong has an advance Chiang Mai via the one Western toilet) booking office with English- central plains. A and washing facili- speaking staff. Some travel second, which later ties are usually agents also book train tickets. divides in two, runs located at the end Fares depend on the speed to and of the coaches. of the train and the class of in Most tourists find the carriage. A second-class northeast Thailand. that a second-class ticket between Bangkok and A third connects train compartment Surat Thani is about 438 baht, Bangkok to the is comfortable with supplements included in Eastern Seaboard enough for long the price. Second-class sleeper and Cambodia, and distances and it is tickets cost about 848 baht. a fourth runs down Window of a first- far more relaxing Shorter trips, such as from the peninsula to class coach in a train than a bus journey. Bangkok to Pattaya, cost Malaysia. This Third-class between 15–120 baht. station is the principal depar- coaches have wooden Tourists can also buy 20-day ture point for trains to the benches, each seating two rail passes. These cost 1,000– coastal areas. or three passengers: they are 2,000 baht. Information about cheap but not recommended these passes are available at TRAINS for long distances. Most trains the Hua Lampong Station. are clean and well main- Train services are labeled tained. Uniformed vendors LONG-DISTANCE BUSES Special Express (the fastest), move along the aisles with Express, Rapid, and Ordinary. refreshments, and buffet cars Long-distance buses run from Travel times, even on Express are attached to trains on the Eastern (Ekamai), trains, can be longer than by long-distance routes. Northern (Morchit), and road. The trip from Bangkok Southern (Pin Klao) bus ter- to Surat Thani Station, for TRAIN TICKETS minals in Bangkok. Provincial instance, takes 11–12 hours. AND FARES capitals can be reached First-class coaches (available directly from Bangkok. Surat on Express and Special Express A train timetable in English is Thani Station is an important trains) consist of individual available from Hua Lamphong point in southern Thailand cabins with air-conditioning. Station in Bangkok. Visitors with both long-distance and local connections. Buses can be faster than trains and are very comfortable as the vehi- cles are air-conditioned, with a toilet, reclining seats, and plenty of leg room. “VIP” buses have the best facilities, including free refreshments served by a stewardess. Over- night buses are especially popular. The air-conditioned Double-decker luxury buses for traveling on long-distance routes buses can get quite cold and TRAVEL INFORMATION 367

EASTERN AND ORIENTAL EXPRESS DIRECTORY The world-renowned Eastern & Oriental Express operates TRAINS between Bangkok and Singapore. This journey is in style taking three days and two nights, including stops at Hua Lampong Station Butterworth and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. Its 22 carriages Krung Kasem Rd, Bangkok. have fabrics and fittings evocative of 1930s luxury rail trav- Tel 0-2223-3786. Advance el. Double and booking office open single cabins come in private 7am–4pm daily. and presidential Surat Thani Station classes, and there are two restau- 9 miles (14 km) W of Surat rants, a saloon car, Thani, Tha Kham Town. a bar, and an Tel 0-7731-1213. observation deck. Such luxuries are Eastern and Oriental also reflected in Express the price. Dining car on the Eastern and Oriental Express Tel (020) 7921 4010 (UK). Tel (866) 674-3689 (US). Tel 0-2255-9150 (Bangkok). travelers should dress suitably cheapest form of travel in long-sleeved shirts and around Thailand. Booking is Tel (65) 392 3500 (Singapore). long pants, although blankets rarely necessary. On many www.orient-express.com are usually provided. buses, travelers just need to pay the driver or conductor. LONG-DISTANCE BUSES BUS TICKETS AND FARES Almost every town will have a BKS terminal. Rot thamadaa Eastern (Ekamai) Fares for long-distance bus (non air-conditioned) buses Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok. journeys are similarly priced as are the cheapest and slowest, Tel 0-2391-8097. second-class train tickets. VIP and stop almost everywhere buses cost about 20 to 50 along the way. The rot aer Northern (Morchit) percent more. Book (air-conditioned) local Kampheng Phet Rd, Morchit, well in advance through buses do not always Bangkok. a travel agent or at the provide blankets, so bus station if traveling visitors are advised to Tel 0-2576-5599. on a weekend or public take a jacket or sweater, Southern (Pin Klao) holiday. Otherwise, just Stub of a especially for the night. Nakhon Chai Si Rd, Phra Pin Klao, turn up at the coach sta- bus ticket Traveling on provincial tion at least half an hour buses is a good way to Bangkok. Tel 0-2435-5605. before departure. Bus tickets meet local people and reach Surat Thani Station are always bought on a one- the more obscure villages and way basis. sights en route. Travelers Talat Kaset Bus Terminal, Tha should beware that refresh- Thong Rd, Surat Thani. PROVINCIAL BUSES ment and toilet stops may be Tel 0-7720-0032. infrequent, and buses may be The government bus company crowded and in poor shape. is called Bor Kor Sor (BKS). Local services are nearly are reserved for monks, so be The BKS buses are frequent, always slow and the skills of prepared to move or stand. relatively reliable, and the drivers will vary. Back seats Women should especially avoid sitting next to monks.

BOATS TO THE ISLANDS

Scheduled ferries are erratic, since their service is heavily dependent on the weather conditions. Regular services are available to Ko Samui, Ko Phangan, and Ko Tao from Surat Thani. Smaller islands have less regular services that depend on the number of seats filled. These makeshift ferries or longtail boats are run by local fishermen and services often stop in the Ticket counter at Krabi for boats to the nearby islands rainy season. 368 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Renting a Car, Moped, towns as well as beaches. In areas with a lot of guest- or Bicycle houses, visitors can rent anything from a moped to a Driving in Thailand is definitely not for the heavy-duty dirt bike. Driver’s faint hearted. Hazards come in the form of licenses are rarely requested, potholed roads, confusing intersections, badly and few firms bother with maintained vehicles, and dangerous driving. insurance. Costs are as low For many visitors wanting to explore the as 200–300 baht for a day’s rental. Safety precautions are Kilometer country off the beaten track, hiring a car and marker a driver familiar with the roads is by far the essential. Check tires, oil, and brakes before setting out. best option. International and local car rental Wear a helmet (compulsory in firms of varying standards operate all over Thailand. In Thailand) and proper shoes. the resorts, mopeds and jeeps are popular options. Long sleeves and trousers will minimize cuts and grazes in a RENTING A CAR minor accident. Take great care on dirt roads and avoid A valid international driver’s driving alone in rural areas. license is a necessity for most Visitors should remember that visitors, while those from medical help is not always ASEAN countries (Association easily available. of Southeast Asian Nations) need only have a license GASOLINE AND SERVICING from their home countries. International rental agencies Gas stations in Thailand are offer safe cars and extensive well manned and are located insurance and backup on main roads in towns and services. Avis and Budget along highways. They are have desks at some airports modern and most provide and in major cities. Charges Typical traffic congestion in unleaded fuel. Attendants will range from about 1,800 baht Thailand’s notoriously busy capital fill the tank, wash the win- for a day to 35,000 baht for a dows, and pump air into month. Siam Express is another less than 50 percent extra the tires. Some garages have a prominent rental agency on top of the normal price resident mechanic for major With other car rental of the car rental. Some drivers jobs, or will at least recom- companies, visitors should know about local sights and mend one. Most of them have check the small print on the suggest interesting spots. Most a small general store, and all contract for liabilities. Obtain car rental firms can arrange have squat toilet facilities. a copy of the vehicle registra- drivers. Siam Express offers Many garages are open 24 tion carry it around. packages including a chauf- hours, while others close at feur, car, and accommoda- about 8pm. Gas itself is often HIRING A CHAUFFEUR- tions in a range of hotels. cheaper in Thailand than it DRIVEN CAR is in the West. RENTING A MOPED Hiring an experienced driver PARKING with a car is becoming a Mopeds and motorcycles are popular option for visitors to widely available for rent in Multistoried parking lots in Thailand. The cost is often resorts, big cities, and other Bangkok are usually attached to major hotels and depart- mental stores. Parking is generally free for hotel guests and visitors for up to a few hours. For general parking, issued entry tickets should be stamped and paid for while exiting. Yet, parking can be difficult in the congested streets of the capital. Pavements painted with red and white stripes indicate a no-parking zone. In smaller towns, many hotels and guesthouses provide free parking. In quieter towns, vis- itors can park anywhere that is obviously not going to Mopeds for rent at Hat Sai Khao, Ko Chang obstruct passing traffic. TRAVEL INFORMATION 369

RULES OF THE ROAD DIRECTORY Driving is on the left hand RENTING A CAR side of the road. The speed limit is 35 mph (60 kph) Avis within city limits, unless 2/12 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd, signed otherwise, and 50 Bangkok. mph (80 kph) on open roads. Tel 0-2251-1131. The standard international www.avisthailand.com road rules apply, but are Phuket Airport. hardly followed by Thai Tel 0-7635-1243. drivers. The only consistent rule is determined by the size Budget of the vehicle one is driving. 19/23 Royal City Avenue, The rather eccentric use of Bangkok. indicators and headlights can Tel 1-800-283-438. be unnerving. A left signal www.budget.co.th can indicate to another driver Siam Express that it is alright to pass, while 90/34-35 Sathorn Nua Traffic policeman managing the a right signal can indicate Road, Bangrak, Bangkok. rush at a Bangkok intersection hazardous oncoming traffic. A Tel 0-662-236 5970. flash of the headlights means www.siamexpressonline.com ROADS AND ROAD a vehicle is coming through. SIGNS For what it is worth, horns RULES OF THE ROAD are hardly used, except in Multi-lane national highways emergencies as it is thought Highway Police exist mostly in and around to be impolite. Drivers think Tel 1193. Bangkok. A toll is charged on nothing of rash driving and it the expressways, including is wise to yield to larger the one leading to vehicles at unmarked intersec- through army checkpoints in Bangkok airport. tions. It is legal to turn border areas, and be prepared The fee is indicat- left at red lights if to stop if necessary. ed above the there is a blue booth and exact sign with a white ROAD MAPS change is required left arrow, or if at most manually Ornately decorated one happens to be Most Thais rely on memory operated booths. Thai street sign in the left lane. and see no need for maps. Expressways are Visitors should be Tourist maps are widely avail- less congested than other careful of animals who often able but cover major roads roads, but they are still prone wander on to minor roads. only. Some, foldout maps to traffic jams. Many roads in Traffic fines are commonly produced by the Prannok Bangkok are one way, imposed for illegal turns. If a Witthaya Map Center are although there are special visitor gets a ticket and the excellent, showing all roads lanes reserved for buses travel- license is taken, he should go and reliefs, but are sold at ing in the opposite direction. to the local police station, the few outlets. The Thailand National highways (also address of which will be on Highways Map by the Auto known as routes), such as the ticket, and pay the fine. Guide Company and the Highway 1 through the Visitors should drive slowly Thailand Highway Map by central plains, are fast and the Roads Association are the efficient, despite being con- best atlases, written in both gested in places. Provincial Thai and Roman scripts. highways are paved and vary in quality. Smaller roads link- RENTING A BICYCLE ing villages are sometimes no more than dirt tracks. Main In the cool season, cycling in roads in towns are called the quieter areas is a pleasant thanons and numbered lanes way to explore the place. leading off these are called Guesthouses and small rentals sois and troks. Most roads can have bicycles for hire for 20– get quite flooded in the rains. 100 baht a day, although the Destinations are marked in bikes may be rickety. New both Roman and . mountain bikes may be avail- Arabic numerals are used for able, but costs could exceed distances, and kilometer those of mopeds. Taking markers are placed along all plenty of water is essential main roads. Road markings and, of course, great care and traffic symbols are quite Visitors cycling through rough must be taken while riding clear and easy to understand. terrain on mountain bikes on busy roads. 370 GENERAL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to Ao Si Thanu (Ko Phangan) 172 Banking and Local Currency (cont.) main entries Ao Son (Ko Tarutao Marine National changing money 358 Park) 271, 273 credit and debit cards 359 A Ao Taling Ngam (Ko Samui) 170 currency 359 Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall Ao Taloh Udang (Ko Tarutao Marine travelers’ checks 359 (Bangkok) 71 National Park) 273 VAT 359 Absolute Lifestyle Magazine 361 Ao Tanot (Ko Tao) 184 Bank of America (Bangkok) 358 Admission charges 353 Ao Thian Ok (Ko Tao) 185 Bank of Ayudhya (Bangkok) 358 Air Asia 362, 363 Ao Thong Nai Pan Bankthai (Bangkok) 358 Air fares 362 (Ko Phangan) 33, 175 Ban Mae Hat (Ko Tao) 182 Airports 363 Ao Thong Yang (Ko Samui) 170 Ban Phe (Ko Samet) 110 Don Muang Airport (Bangkok) Ao Thung Makham 132, 155 Ban Rong Jai (Khao Sam Roi Yot 362, 363 Ao Ton Sai (Krabi Coast) 250 National Park) 144 Hat Yai 363 Ao Wai (Ko Samet) 110, 113 Ban Sala Dan (Ko Lanta) 260 Ko Samui 363 Ao Wok Tum (Ko Phangan) 172 Ban Salak Phet (Ko Chang) 125 Phuket 363 Ao Wong Deuan (Ko Samet) 110, 113 Ban Si Raya (Ko Lanta) 263 Suvarnabhumi International Airport Ao Yai (Ko Chang) 32, 200 Ban Ton Sai (Ko Phi Phi) 252, 254 (Bangkok) 362, 363 Aquariums Bargaining Air travel 362–3 Phuket Aquarium (Phuket) 236 in hotels 289 Alliance Française (Bangkok) Samui Aquarium and Tiger Zoo in shops 80, 334 339, 341 (Ko Samui) 168 Bars 83, 339 Amarin Winichai Hall, Grand Palace Underwater World (Pattaya) 106–7 Basketry and rattan work 31 (Bangkok) 60 Arts and Crafts 30–31, 335, 337 Batik method of dyeing cloth 31 American Express 359 Aruna, the god of dawn 66 Battle of Nong Sarai (1593) 41 Amulets 55, 283 Asanha Bucha 35, 37 Beach, The (movie) 253, 255 Ancient City Wall and North Gate ASEAN Barred Ground Dove Fair 34 Beach Life 127 (Nakhon Si Thammarat) 192, 193 Asian Diver Scuba Guide: Thailand Beers 315 Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum (Asian Diver) 342 Benjarongware 30 (Bangkok) 70 Asian Wall Street Journal 361 Best Beaches 32–3 Angkor Thom, City of 39 Asian Institute of Gemological Ao Kantiang (Ko Lanta) 32, 262 Ang Thong Marine National Park 11, Sciences (Bangkok) 336, 337 Ao Thong Nai Pan 48, 158, 180–81 ATM services 358 (Ko Phangan) 33, 175 Animal-borne diseases 357 Avis (Bangkok) 368, 369 Ao Yai (Ko Chang) 32 Antiques 81, 336, 337 40–41, 66, 186 Hat Hua Hin (Hua Hin) 33, 140 Ao Bai Lan (Ko Chang) 123 Hat Kata Yai (Phuket) 32, 228 Ao Bang Nang Rom 132, 149 B Hat Khlong Phrao Ao Bang Pho (Ko Samui) 164 Ban Bat (Bangkok) 52, 69 (Ko Chang) 33, 122 Ao Bang Thao (Phuket) 231 Bang Bao (Ko Chang) 118, 124 Hat Sai Kaew (Ko Samet) 33, 112 Ao Chalok Ban Kao (Ko Tao) 185 Ban Chalok Lam (Ko Phangan) 174 Hat Sai Ri (Ko Tao) 33, 182 Ao Chalok Lam (Ko Phangan) 174 Bangkok 10, 15, 50–95 Hat Tham Phra Nang Ao Chalong (Phuket) 236 airport 362 (Krabi Coast) 32, 249 Ao Chaophao (Ko Phangan) 173 Chinese in Bangkok 73 Bicycles, renting 369 Ao Cho (Ko Samet) 113 Dusit Park 52, 68, 70–71 Big Buddha Beach (Ko Samui) 165 Ao Hin Khok (Ko Samet) 113 Entertainment in Bangkok 82–3 Big Chilli 338 Ao Hin Kong (Ko Phangan) 172 map 52–3 BKK 82 Ao Hinwong (Ko Tao) 183 Farther Afield 78–9 BK Magazine 338, 361 Ao Jak and Ao Molae (Ko Tarutao getting around 53 Boats 367 Marine National Park) 273 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Boat trips 344, 365 Ao Kantiang (Ko Lanta) 32, 262 Kaew 56–61 Body language 354 Ao Khan Kradai 148–9 hotels 290–94 Bo Nam Ron (Ranong) 200 Ao Khlong Jaak (Ko Lanta) 262–3 Jim Thompson’s House 52, Bond, James 213 Ao Leuk (Ko Tao) 184 75, 76–7 James Bond and the Island Ao Lo Bakao (Ko Phi Phi) 255 local transportation 364 Hideout 213 Ao Lo Dalum (Ko Phi Phi) 252, 254 restaurants 318–22 James Bond Island 212 Ao Mae Hat (Ko Phangan) 174 Shopping in Bangkok 80–81 Booking Ao Mai Pai (Ko Lanta) 263 Street-by-Street: Around Sanam entertainment tickets 338 Ao Mae Yai (Ko Surin Nua) 204 Luang 54–5 hotels 289 Ao Mamuang (Ko Tao) 183 street finder maps and index 84–95 tours 365 Ao Manao 132, 149 Wat Pho 52, 62, 64–5 Books 81 Ao Maya (Ko Phi Phi) 253, 255 Bangkok 101 361 Bo Rai (Trat) 117 Ao Naklua (Pattaya) 104–5 Bangkok Airways 362, 363 Bor Kor Sor (BKS) 367 Ao Nang (Krabi Coast) 250 Bangkok Bank 358 Boromphiman Mansion (Bangkok) 61 Ao Nuan (Ko Samet) 113 Bangkok General Hospital 356, 357 Bowring, Sir John 61 Ao Ok (Ko Samui) 169 Bangkok International Film Boyle, Danny 253, 255 Ao Pansea (Phuket) 231 Festival 339 British Airways 362, 363 Ao Pante Malaka (Ko Tarutao Marine Bangkok Planetarium 79 B2S (Bangkok) 81 National Park) 272 Bangkok Post 82, 358, 361 BTS (Bangkok Mass Transit System) Ao Phai (Ko Samet) 111, 113 Bangkok Recorder 338 Skytrain 364 Ao Phangkha (Ko Samui) 169 Bang Saen 98, 100 Buddha see also Emerald Buddha Ao Phang Nga National Park Bang Saphan 132, 152 Big Buddha (Ko Samui) 17 (Phang Nga Bay) 11, 212, 217 Ban Hat Lek 98, 129 Big Buddha (Pattaya) 107 Ao Phra-Ae (Ko Lanta) 260 Ban Khlong Son 118 Dvaravati Torso of the Buddha 77 Ao Phrao (Ko Samet) 110, 112 Banking and Local Currency 358–9 Golden Buddha 67 Ao Phutsa (Ko Samet) 113 ATM services 358 Ho Phra Buddha Sihing (Nakhon Si Ao Sai Nuan (Ko Tao) 185 banks and banking hours 358 Thammarat) 192–3 GENERAL INDEX 371

Buddha (cont.) Chakraphat Phiman Hall Constitution Day 37 Khao Kong hill Buddha (Bangkok) 61 Constitutional Monarchs 43 (Narathiwat) 285 Chakri, General 41, 42 Convention on International Trade in Khao Takiab Standing Buddha Chakri Day 34, 37 Endangered Species of Wild Flora (Hua Hin) 141 Chakri Dynasty 42–3, 59, 60, 151 and Fauna (CITES) 150 Nak Buddha 59 Changing money 358 Conversions 354 Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho) 64 Chanthaburi 10, 98, 114–15 Coral Reef Ecosystems 20–21 Reclining Buddha (Wat Chai hotels 294 Coronation Day 35, 60 Mongkhon, Songkhla) 281 restaurants 322 Courier services 361 Srivijaya-style Buddha 39 Chanthaburi Cathedral Crawfurd, John 61 Sukhothai Buddha Image (National (Chanthaburi) 114 Credit cards 334, 359 Museum) 62 Chanthaburi Gemstone Fair 37 Crocodile Farm (Bangkok) 79 Buddhadhasa Bhikku 161 Chao Le Boat Floating Festival Crocodile Farm (Pattaya) 105 Buddhaisawan Chapel (Bangkok) 62 (Laem Tukkae) 226 Cultural shows 82 Buddhism Chao Phraya Express Boats Cultural study 345 Chakri Dynasty 42 (Bangkok) 344, 347 Culture and the arts 17 family life 24 Chao Phraya River 52 Currency 359 A garland of jasmine 25 Chapel of the Gandharara Buddha 58 Curries 317 Story of the Buddha 24 Chatuchak Market (Bangkok) 78, Customs information 352–3, 355 Thai Buddhism 24–5 80, 81 Cycling 344–5 walking meditation 25 Chen La civilization 39 Budget car rental (Bangkok) 368, 369 Chiaw Lan Lake 207 D Bumrungrad Hospital Chinatown (Bangkok) 10, 52, 72 Dam, Pu 112 (Bangkok) 356, 357 hotels 290 Damnoen Saduak Floating Market Bungee jumping 345, 347 restaurants 318–19 (Bangkok) 78, 79 Burma Banks (Surin Islands Marine Chinese Mansions Dance 338–9 National Park) 205 (Phuket Town) 222–3 khon 26, 74, 82 Burmese Carvings, Jim Thompson’s Chinese New Year 37 lakhon 26 House (Bangkok) 76 Chinese Temples likay 27, 338, 340 Buses San Chao Bang Niew (Phuket) 224 ram wong 339, 340 long-distance 366–7 San Chao Chui Tui Danger spots 356 tickets and fares 367 (Phuket) 222 Dan Singkhon 132, 150 San Chao Paw Khao Yai Day spas 349 C (Ko Si Chang) 102 Deep South 11, 276–85 The Cambodian Connection 117 San Chao Put Jaw (Phuket) 222 korlae fishing boats 285 Canoeing 343 San Chao Sang Tham (Phuket) 224 map 278–9 Cars, renting 368 Sanctuary of Truth (Pattaya) 104 hotels 311 Caves Chinitz, John 60 muay thai 283 Khao Luang Cave Chonburi 98, 100 restaurants 333 (Phetchaburi) 136 Water Buffalo Racing 101 Delta Airlines 362, 363 Khao Wang Thong Cave 186 Chulachakrabongse, Prince 140 Department stores 334–5 Ko Hong 215 Chulalongkorn Day 37 Desserts 317 see also Sweets Tham Bua Bok Cave (Ang Thong Destination spas 348–9 Marine National Park) 180-81 (Bangkok) 43 Destruction of Mangrove Forests 247 Tham Chao Mai 265 Chulanont, Surayud (General) 45 Deutsche Bank 358 Tham Hua Kalok 245 Chumbhot, Prince and Princess 75 Devas 25 Tham Khao Mai Kaew Chumphon 132, 154 Dharma Sala Wihan (Wat Phra (Ko Lanta) 262 hotels 298 Mahathat Woramahawihan) 194 Tham Lot 245 restaurants 324 Dharmasastra 40 Tham Luk Seua (Suan Somdet Phra Chumphon, Prince 154 Dialing codes 361 Sinakharin Park) 217 Chumphon Sea World Fair 155 Dim sum 73 Tham Morakot (Ko Muk) 266 Churches and Cathedrals Disabled travelers 353, 355 Tham Nam Thalu (Khao Sok Chanthaburi Cathedral hotels 289 National Park) 207 (Chanthaburi) 114 Discos 339 Tham Phet 245 Cinemas 82, 83 Diving 22–3, 342–3 Tham Phra Nang (Krabi) 249, 251 Citibank 358 diving tips 23 Tham Phraya Nakhon (Khao Sam Clothes 81, 335 PADI (Professional Association of Roi Yot National Park) 144–5 Coconut Monkeys 171 Diving Instructors) certification 22 Tham Reusi Sawan (Suan Somdet Coffee shops 312 top ten dive sites 23 Phra Sinakharin Park) 217 Communications and Media 360–61 Diving in Thailand (Asia Books) 342 Tham Seua (Ko Lanta) 262 cell phones 360 Domestic flights 362–3 Tham Si Ru (Khao Sok National courier services 361 Dress 355 Park) 207 dialing codes 361 Drinks 315, 317 Viking Cave (Ko Phi Phi) 253 international calls 360 Drugs 356 Cell phones 360 Internet access 361 Dugong Sightings (Ko Tarutao) 271 Ceramics 336 local calls 360 Dusit Park (Bangkok) 52, 68, 70–71 Ceramic Decoration (Wat Pho) 65 mail 361 Dusit Zoo (Bangkok) 52, 68 Cha-am 10, 132, 139 newspapers and magazines 361 Dvaravati period 39 hotels 298 television and radio 360–61 Dvaravati Torso of the Buddha, Jim restaurants 324 Communications Authority of Thompson’s House (Bangkok) 77 Chaiya 158, 160 Thailand (CAT) 360 Chaiya National Museum 160 Concerts, exhibitions, and E Chaiya’s Role in the Srivijaya modern theater 339 East Asiatic Company (Bangkok) 72 Empire 161 Confucianism, Leng Noi Eastern (Ekamai) 366, 367 Chak Phra Festival 36 Yee Temple 73 Eastern and Oriental Express 367 372 GENERAL INDEX

Eastern Seaboard 10, 96–129 Festivals (cont.) A Glossary of Typical Thai Dishes Beach Life 127 Hua Hin Jazz Festival 35 (cont.) Elephants in Thailand 109 Khao Pansa 35 noodles 316 getting around 99 King’s Cup and Princess’ Cup Boat regional dishes 317 hotels 294–8 Races 35 rice dishes 317 Ko Chang 118–25 King’s Cup Regatta 37 seafood 317 Ko Samet 110–13 King Taksin the Great’s snacks 316 map 98–9 Commemoration Day 37 soups 317 restaurants 322–4 Kite-flying festival 54 Golden Mount (Bangkok) 52, 69 Eating habits in Thailand 313 Loy Krathong 37 Golden Mount Fair 37 Ecology and conservation 16–17 Narathiwat Fair 36 Golf 343 The Economist 361 Ok Phansa 36 Grand Palace (Bangkok) 10, 52, 56–7 Electricity 354 Pak Lat Festival 34 Aphonphimok Pavilion 60 Electronic goods 81 Pattaya Wan Lai 34 Audience Chamber 61 Elephants 109, 344 Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair 37 Chakri Throne Hall 60 Ban Kwan Elephant Camp 119 Rambutan and Thai Fruit Dusit Throne Hall 60 Camp Chang Elephant Festival 35 Exploring the Grand Palace 60–61 Trekking 170 Royal Plowing Ceremony 54, 58 Inner Palace 61 Elephant Treks (Ko Samui) 162 Songkran 34 Phra Maha Monthien Pattaya Elephant Village 105 Sunthorn Phu Day 35 Buildings 60–61 Royal white elephants 69 Thao Si Sunthorn Festival 34 Siwalai Gardens 61 Embassies 355 Thao Thep Kasatri Festival 34 Green travel 363 Emerald Buddha 59 Thot Pah Pa Klang Nam 37 Greeting people 354 Wat Arun 66 Traditional Boat Procession and Guan Yin, Goddess of Mercy 141, 244 Wat Phra Kaeo 56, 58 Races 36 Guesthouses 288 Emergency, in an 356, 357 Trang Food Festival 34 Guided tours 365 English-language bookstores 335 Trang Moon Festival 36 Gypsies see Sea Gypsies Entertainment in Bangkok 82–3 Trang Pork Festival 36 bars and nightclubs 83 Trooping of the Colors 37 H cinemas 82 Vegetarian Festival 36 Half-Buried Buddha, Wat Phra Thong cultural shows and theater 82 Visakha Bucha 35 (Phuket) 220 general information 82 Wan Lai Festival 34 Hat Ao Mae (Ko Tao) 182 muay thai 82 World Durian Festival 35 Hat Ao Noi 132, 149 Entertainment in Thailand’s Beaches Films see Cinemas, Movies Hat Arunothai 132, 155 and Islands 338–41 Fine Arts Department (Bangkok) 27 Hat Ban Chuen 98, 129 booking tickets 338 First-aid kit 357 Hat Bang Ben 198, 201 concerts, exhibitions, and modern The Flavors of Thailand 314–15 Hat Bangrak (Ko Samui) 163, 165 theater 339 four flavors 314–15 Hat Ban Krut 132, 152 discos, bars, live music, and folk regional dishes and specialities 314 Hat Bophut (Ko Samui) 165 clubs 339 rice and noodles 314 Hat Chang Lang 242, 264–5 information sources 338 Thai meal 315 Hat Chao Mai National Park 242, movies 339 what to drink 315 265–266 muay thai and krabi-krabong 340 Focus 361 Hat Chaweng (Ko Samui) 163, 166 soccer, rugby, and snooker 340 Folk clubs 339 Hat Hin Ngam 158, 188–9 takraw 340 Folklore Museum (Ko Yo) 284 Hat Hua Hin (Hua Hin) 140 temple fairs and festivals 340 Food- and water--borne diseases 357 Hat Jomtien (Pattaya) 106 traditional theater and dance 338–9 Forestry Department (Bangkok) 289 Hat Kai Bae (Ko Chang) 118, 123 Erawan Shrine (Bangkok) 75 Fortune tellers, Sanam Luang Hat Kamala (Phuket) 230 Etiquette 354 (Bangkok) 55 Hat Karon (Phuket) 229 eating habits 313 Freedom Beach (Hat Patong) 229 Hat Kata Noi (Phuket) 228 greeting people 354 French Attacks (1893–1907) 43 Hat Kata Yai (Phuket) 32, 228 wats 355 Fruit juices 315 Hat Khanom 158, 186–7 Exhibitions 339 Full Moon Party (Ko Phangan) 177 Hat Khao Lak 198, 208 Hat Khlong Dao (Ko Lanta) 260 F G Hat Khlong Khong (Ko Lanta) 260–61 Fabrics see also Clothes Galleries see Museums and Galleries Hat Khlong Muang (Krabi Coast) 251 Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum Game fishing (Phuket) 220 Hat Khlong Nin (Ko Lanta) 261 (Bangkok) 70 Ganesha, the elephant god 281 Hat Khlong Phrao 33, 118, 122 Thai silk 80 Gardens see Parks and Gardens Hat Khuat (Ko Phangan) 174 Farang guards (Wat Pho) 65 Garland, Alex 253 Hat Laem Sala 132, 143 Farther Afield (Bangkok) 78–9 Gasoline and servicing 368 Hat Laem Set (Ko Samui) 168 hotels 294 Gem Market (Chanthaburi) 114 Hat Laem Singh (Phuket) 230 restaurants 321–2 Gemstones 31 Hat Laem Thong (Ko Phi Phi) 255 Ferdinand de Lessops 154 Gem Market (Chanthaburi) 114 Hat Lamai (Ko Samui) 163, 166 Ferries 367 shopping 81, 336 Hat Maenam (Ko Samui) 164–5 Festivals 340 General information 82 Hat Mai Khao (Phuket) 233 Asanha Bucha 35 General precautions 356 Hat Na Dan 158, 186–7 ASEAN Barred Ground Giant Swing (Bangkok) 52, 67 Hat Nai Harn (Phuket) 228 Dove Fair 34 Gibbon Rehabilitation Center, Khao Hat Nai Phlao 158, 187 Chak Phra Festival 36 Phra Taew National Park (Phuket) Hat Nai Phraet 158, 187 Chakri Day 34 221, 235 Hat Nai Thon (Phuket) 233 Chanthaburi Gemstone Fair 37 Giu Ong 226 Hat Nai Yang (Phuket) 232–3 Chinese New Year 37 A Glossary of Typical Thai Hat Naresuan 132, 142 Coronation Day 35, 60 Dishes 316–17 Hat Noppharat Thara (Krabi) 251 Festival of the 10th Lunar Month 36 choosing dishes 316 Hat Nui (Ko Lanta) 262 Golden Mount Fair 37 curries 317 Hat Pak Meng 242, 264 Her Majesty the Queen’s Birthday 35 desserts 317 Hat Patong (Phuket) 229 His Majesty the King’s Birthday 37 drinks 317 Hat Pattaya (Pattaya) 104 GENERAL INDEX 373

Hat Phra Nang (Krabi Coast) 249 Hotels (cont.) Khao Kitchakut National Park 98, 116 Hat Piti 158, 189 choosing a hotel 290–311 Khao Krachom (Khao Sam Roi Yot Hat Praphat 198, 202–3 Deep South 311 National Park) 144 Hat Rai Leh East (Krabi Coast) 248 Eastern Seaboard 294–8 Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Hat Rai Leh West (Krabi Coast) 248 hotel and resort spas 348 Park 198, 208–9 Hat Ranti (Ko Phi Phi) 254 hotel grading and facilities 288 Khao Lampi Hat Thai Muang National Hat Rawai (Phuket) 237 Lower Andaman Coast 308–11 Park (Thai Muang) 216 Hat Rin (Ko Phangan) 176–7 Lower Western Gulf Coast 300–304 khao larm 100 Hat Sa Bua 158, 190 luxury hotels 288 Khao Luang Cave (Phetchaburi) 136 Hat Sadet (Ko Phangan) 175 prices 289 Khao Luang National Park 158, 190 Hat Sai Daeng (Ko Tao) 184–5 Upper Andaman Coast 304–8 Khao Noi (Songkhla) 280 Hat Sai Kaew 33, 98, 103, 111, Upper Western Gulf Coast 298–300 Khao Nor Chuchi Wildlife 112–13, 128 HSBC 358 Sanctuary 242, 258 Hat Sai Khao 118, 122 Hua Hin 10, 132, 140–41 Khao Pansa 35, 37 Hat Sai Ngam 98, 128 hotels 299 Khao Phanom Bencha National Hat Sai Ri 33, 132, 154–5, 182 restaurants 324–6 Park 242, 245 Hat Sai Yao (Ko Chang) 119, 125 Hua Hin Jazz Festival 35 Khao Phanturat (Hat Kamala) 230 Hat Salad (Ko Phangan) 173 Hua Hin Railway Station 140 Khao Phra Taew National Park Hat Samila (Songkhla) 280 Hua Lampong Station 52, 72, (Phuket) 221, 235 Hat Sam Phraya 132, 145 366, 367 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park 11, Hat Samran 98, 128–9 Hun krabok 27, 338 49, 132, 142, 144–5 Hat Sam Roi Yot (Khao Sam Roi Yot Khao Seng (Songkhla) 281 National Park) 145 I Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary 116 Hat Saophao 158, 190 I Ching, Chinese monk 161 Khao Sok National Park 198, 206–7 Hat Sichon 158, 188 Immigration, Chinese 73 Khao Takiab (Hua Hin) 141 Hat Surin (Phuket) 231 Immunization 352 Khao tom mat sai kluay 138 Hat Tham Pang (Ko Si Chang) 102 Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004 16 Khao Wang (Phetchaburi) 136 Hat Tha Nam (Ko Chang) 123 Indic Kingdoms 39 Khao Wang Thong Cave 186 Hat Thap Thim 98, 128 Information sources 338 18 Hat Thian (Ko Phangan) 176 Insect-borne diseases 357 Khlong Chao Waterfall 126 Hat Thung Wua Laen 132, 152–3 Institute for Southern Thai Khlong Hat Sompen (Ranong) 200 Hat Tong Yi 158, 188 Studies 284 Khlong Hat Sompen River 200 Hat Wai Chek (Ko Chang) 119, 125 Institute of Massage (Bangkok) 64, 65 Khlong Hin Lad Hat Wa Kaw 132, 150 Instruments, musical 26–7, 336 (Khlong Thap Liang) 209 Hat Yai 278, 280 International calls 360 Khlong Khao Daeng 143 airport 363 International Dharma Heritage Khlong Nakha Wildlife hotels 311 (Chaiya) 160, 345, 347 Sanctuary 198, 201 restaurants 333 International Herald Tribune 361 Khlong Phlu Waterfall (Ko Chang) 126 Hat Yao (Ko Phangan) 173 International New Year’s Day 37 khlongs 53, 74, 77 Hat Yao (Ko Phi Phi) 254 International New Year’s Eve 37 Khlong Saen Sap Hat Yao 242, 265 Internet access 361 (Jim Thompson’s House) 76 Hat Yong Ling 242, 265 Islam 25 Khlong Thap Liang 198, 209 Hat Yuan 176 Khmer Empire 39, 137 Health 356–7 J khon 17, 26–7, 74, 82 Heat, coping with 357 James Bond Island (Phang Nga Bay) Khrua In Khong (monk-painter) 67 “Hell’s banknotes” 73 212, 213 Khu Khut Waterbird Park Hemchala, Queen 194 Jataka Paintings (Jim Thompson’s (Songkhla Lakes) 282 Her Majesty the Queen’s Birthday 35 House) 76 Khun Phitak (Bangkok) 79 Heroines’ Monument (Phuket) 234 Jatakas 58 Khuraburi 198, 203 Highway Police 369 Jayavarman I, King 39 Killing Fields, The (movie) 140, 226 Hiking Jayavarman VII, King 39 King Bhumibol’s Photographic Ang Thong Marine National Jewelry 81, 336 Museum (Bangkok) 70 Park 180 Jim Thompson’s House 52, 75, 76–7 Kingdom of Ayutthaya 40–41 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Joe Louis Theater (Bangkok) 82, 83, Kingdom of Sukhothai 40 Park 145 338, 341 King Mongkut Memorial Park of Hill-tribe artifacts 335 Joffe, Roland 226 Science and Technology 132, 150 Hin Bai (Ko Phangan) 23, 174 Journal of the Siam Society 79 King Taksin Park (Chanthaburi) 115 Hin Daeng (Ko Lanta Marine King Taksin Shrine (Chanthaburi) 115 National Park) 23, 263 K Kite-flying 55 Hin Lak Ngam 132, 153 Kabang 204 Kittikachorn, Thanom 44 Hin Muang (Ko Lanta Marine Kaeng Hang Le 315, 317 Kiu Wong In, vegetarian god 222 National Park) 23, 263 Kaeng Krachan National Park Ko Adang (Ko Tarutao Marine Hin Pusa (Similan Islands Marine (Phetchaburi) 11, 132, 139 National Park) 270, 274 National Park) 210–11 Kaeng Leung Pla 314, 315 Ko Bangu (Similan Islands Marine Hin Ta and Hin Yai 167 Kalamae 138 National Park) 210 His Majesty the King’s Birthday 37 Kantang (Trang) 264 Ko Bubu 242, 259 History of Thailand 38–45 Kasikorn Bank 358 Ko Bulon Leh 242, 268 Hok, god of happiness 226 Kayaking 343 Ko Chang 10, 22, 98, 118–26 Holidays, public 37 Ang Thong Marine National Exploring Ko Chang 122–5 Ho Phra Buddha Sihing (Nakhon Si Park 180 Exploring Ko Chang’s Outlying Thammarat) 192–3 Hat Kaibae 118 Islands 126 Ho Phra I-suan (Nakhon Si Kerr, Maurice 340 hotels 294–5 Thammarat) 192 Khao Chong Krajok 148 restaurants 322 Ho Phra Narai (Nakhon Si Khao Chamao-Khao Wong National Ko Faan 165 Thammarat) 192 Park (Pattaya) 108 Ko Hai 236 Horseback racing and riding 345 Khao Hin Lek Fai (Hua Hin) 141 Ko Hin Ngam (Ko Tarutao Marine Hotels see also Where to Stay Khao Kha Archaeological Site 158, 189 National Park) 275 Bangkok 290–94 Khao Khieo Zoo 98, 100–101 Ko Hong 215 374 GENERAL INDEX

Ko Huyong (Similan Islands Marine Ko Tao 11, 154, 158, 182–5 Lower Western Gulf Coast 156–95 National Park) 211 hotels 303–4 Ang Thong Marine National Park Ko Jum 242, 259 restaurants 328 180–81 Ko Kaeo Pisadan (Phuket) 236–7 Ko Tarutao Marine National Chaiya’s role in the Srivijaya Ko Kam Noi 198, 202 Park 242, 270–75 Empire 161 Ko Kam Yai 198, 202 Exploring Ko Tarutao Marine Coconut Monkeys 171 Ko Kham 126 National Park 272–5 full moon party 177 Ko Khang Khao 198, 202 Ko Wai 126 getting around 159 Ko Klang 242, 246 Ko Wua Talab 181 hotels 300–304 Ko Kradan 242, 265, 266–7 Ko Yang (Ko Tarutao Marine Ko Phangan 172–7 Underwater Weddings 267 National Park) 275 Ko Samui 162–71 Ko Kut 126 Ko Yao Noi (Phuket) 238 Ko Tao 182–5 hotels 295 Ko Yao Yai (Phuket) 238 map 158–9 Ko Lanta 241, 242, 260–63 Ko Yo 278, 284 Nakhon Si Thammarat 192–5 hotels 308–9 Krabi 242, 244 Pink Dolphins of Sichon and restaurants 331–2 hotels 309–10 Khanom 186 Ko Lanta Marine National restaurants 332–3 restaurants 326–8 Park 242, 263 Krabi Coast 11, 242, 248–51 Shadow Puppets 191 Ko Larn (Pattaya) 108 Krabi-krabong 340 Wat Phra Mahathat Ko Libong 242, 267 Kra Canal, The 154 Woramahawihan 194–5 Ko Lipe 270, 275 Kraprayoon, Suchinda 44, 45 Luk Isan (movie) 339 Ko Mak 126 Kru Se mosque (Pattani) 284 Lumphini Park (Bangkok) 52, 74 hotels 295 Lumphini Stadium (Bangkok) 82, 83, Ko Miang (Similan Islands Marine L 340, 341 National Park) 211 Labor Day (May 1) 37 Luxury hotels 288 Ko Muk 242, 265, 266 Laem Hin Khom (Ko Samui) 169 Ko Nang Yuan (Ko Tao) 182–3 Laem Ngop 98, 117 M Ko Ngam Noi 132, 153 Laem Promthep (Phuket) 220, 237 Mae Thorani, the earth goddess 280 Ko Ngam Yai 132, 153 Laem Singh (Phuket) 230 Magazines 361 Ko Payang (Similan Islands Marine Laem Son National Park 198, 201 Maha Thammaracha, King 41 National Park) 211 Laem Talumphuk 158, 191 Mail 361 Ko Payu (Similan Islands Marine Laem Tanyong Hara (Ko Tarutao) 271 Main Bot, Wat Pho (Bangkok) 65 National Park) 211 Laem Thian (Ko Tao) 184 Main TAT Offices 289 Ko Phaluai 180 Laem Tukkae (Phuket) 224 Makha Bucha 37 Ko Phanak (Phang Nga Bay) 212 Lakeside Pavilion, Dusit Park Malls, shopping 80, 334–5 Ko Phangan 11, 158, 172–7 (Bangkok) 71 Mandarin Oriental (Bangkok) 52, 74 Full moon party 177 lakhon 26 Manfredi, Hercules 61, 68 hotels 300–301 Landscape and Wildlife 18–19 Mangrove Ecosystems 247 restaurants 326 coastal forest 19 Mangroves 242, 246 Ko Phayam 198, 200 montane tropical forest 18 Mansions of Phuket 226–7 Ko Phetra Marine National open forest 18 Phra Pitak Chinpracha Mansion 227 Park 242, 268 wetlands 19 Maps Ko Phi Phi 11, 242, 252–5 Language 353 Ang Thong Marine National Park Danny Boyle’s The Beach 253 Legend of Phra Nang, The 251 180–81 Exploring Ko Phi Phi 254–5 Legend of the Emerald Buddha 59 Bangkok 52–3 hotels 309 Leng Noi Yee Temple 73 Bangkok: Farther Afield 78 Ko Phi Phi Leh 255 Libong Archipelago Wildlife Reserve Bangkok: Street Finder 84–95 Pirates of the Andaman 255 (Ko Libong) 267 Best Beaches 32–3 restaurants 332 likay 27 Chanthaburi Town Center 115 Ko Racha Noi 238 Lim To Khieng 284 Deep South 278–9 Ko Racha Yai 238 Live music 339 Eastern Seaboard 98–9 Ko Rawi 270, 274 Local calls 360 Hua Hin Town Center 141 Korlae fishing boats 285 Local Transportation 364 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Ko Samet 10, 98, 110–13 getting around Bangkok 364 Park 144–5 Exploring Ko Samet 112–13 songthaews, samlors, and Khao Sok National Park 207 hotels 295–6 tuk-tuks 364 Ko Chang 118–19 poetry of Sunthorn Phu 111 taxis 364 Ko Lanta 261 restaurants 323 Lok, god of power 226 Ko Phangan 173 Ko Sam Sao 181 Lord Vishnu, god of the Hindu Ko Phi Phi 252–3 Ko Samui 11, 154, 158, 162–71 holy trinity 209 Ko Samet 110–11 airport 363 Lovers’ Gate (Ko Khai) 270 Ko Samui 162–3 Coconut Monkeys 171 Lower Andaman Coast 11, 240–75 Ko Si Chang 103 Exploring Ko Samui 164–70 Danny Boyle’s The Beach 253 Ko Tarutao Marine National hotels 301–3 getting around 242 Park 270–71 restaurants 326–8 hotels 308–11 Krabi Coast 249 Ko Si Boya 242, 258–9 Ko Kradan’s Underwater Lower Andaman Coast 242–3 Ko Si Chang 98, 102–3 Weddings 267 Lower Western Gulf Coast 158–9 hotels 296 Ko Lanta 260–61 Nakhon Si Thammarat Town restaurants 323 Ko Phi Phi 252–3 Center 193 Ko Similan (Similan Islands Marine Ko Tarutao Marine National Pattaya 104–5, 108 National Park) 210 Park 270–75 Phang Nga Bay 212–13 Ko Sukorn 242, 267 Krabi Coast 248–51 Phuket 220–21 Ko Surin Nua (Surin Islands Marine Legend of Phra Nang 251 Phuket Town Center 223 National Park) 204 Mangrove Ecosystems 247 Similan Islands Marine National Ko Surin Tai (Surin Islands Marine map 242–3 Park 211 National Park) 205 pirates of the Andaman 255 Songkhla Town Center 281 Ko Taen (Ko Samui) 162, 169 restaurants 331–3 Surin Islands Marine National Ko Tam Tok (Ko Kam Yai) 202 Trang’s Vegetarian Festival 264 Park 205 GENERAL INDEX 375

Maps (cont.) Museums and Galleries (cont.) National Parks (cont.) Thailand’s Beaches and Islands At Royal Carriage Museum Khao Phanom Bencha National a Glance 48–9 (Bangkok) 71 Park 242, 245 Upper Andaman Coast 199 Royal Elephant Museum Khao Phra Taew National Park 235 Upper Western Gulf Coast 133 (Bangkok) 70 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park Mara, the god of death 58 Satun National Museum (Satun) 269 132, 142, 144–5 Marine Research Center (Phuket) 221 Songkhla National Museum 280 Khao Sok National Park 198, 206 Markets SUPPORT Museum (Bangkok) Ko Lanta Marine National Park Bangkok’s Markets 80 70, 71 242, 263 Chatuchak Market (Bangkok) Thalang National Museum Ko Phetra Marine National Park 78, 80 (Phuket) 234 242, 268 Damnoen Saduak Floating Market Wat Khlong Thom Nua Museum Ko Tarutao Marine National Park (Bangkok) 79 242, 258 242, 270–75 Gem Market (Chanthaburi) 114 Wat Lamai Cultural Hall (Hat Laem Son National Park 198, 201 markets and street vendors 335 Lamai) 166 Mu Ko Ra-Ko Phra Thong National Night Market (Hua Hin) 140–41 Wihan Kien Museum (Wat Phra Park 198, 203 Pak Khlong Market (Bangkok) 49, Mahathat Woramahawihan) 194 Nam Tok Phliw National 52, 72 Music 24–5 Park 98, 116 Phahurat Market (Bangkok) 52, 72 Instruments of Classical Thai Similan Islands Marine National sweet and desserts 138 Music 26–7, 336 Park 198, 210 Marukhathaiyawan Palace 132, 139 Sirinath National Park Masayit Mambang (Satun) 269 N (Phuket) 221, 232–3 Masks 336 Na Dan (Ko Samet) 111, 112 Surin Islands Marine National Massage 65 Nagas 225 Park 198, 204 Institute of Massage (Bangkok) 64 Na Issaro 281 Thale Ban National Park 242 Thai foot massages 127 Nak Buddha 59 Than Bok Koranee National MasterCard 359 Nakhon Si Thammarat 11, 48, 158, Park 242, 245 Matsayit Klang mosque (Pattani) 284 192–5 Than Sadet National Park 175 Matsayit Mukaram (Hat Surin) 231 hotels 304 National Stadium (Bangkok) 340, 341 Maugham, William Somerset 74 restaurants 328 National Theater (Bangkok) 82, 83, Maya, Queen 69 Nam prik si racha 101 338, 341 Medical facilities 356, 357 Nam Tok Phliw National Park 98, 116 Neo-Classical architecture Medicine Pavilion, Wat Pho Nam Tok Sip-Et Chan (Khao Sok Boromphiman Mansion, Grand (Bangkok) 64 National Park) 206–7 Palace (Bangkok) 61 Metropolitan Mobile Police 356, 357 Nam Tok Than Sawan (Khao Sok Chakri Throne Hall, Grand Palace Million Years’ Stone Park and National Park) 206 (Bangkok) 60 Crocodile Farm (Pattaya) 105 Na Muang Waterfalls 162, 167 Siwalai Gardens, Grand Palace Miniature Mountains, Wat Pho Nang talung 191 (Bangkok) 61 (Bangkok) 65 Narai the Great, King 154 Newspapers 361 Mini Siam (Pattaya) 105 Na-Ranong, Khaw Sim Bee 222 Newsweek 361 Minor stomach upsets 357 Narathiwat 11, 278, 285 Nielloware 336 Modernization 43 hotels 311 Nightclubs 83 Modern theater 339 restaurants 333 Night Market (Hua Hin) 140–41 Mongkut, Thailand’s Scholar King 151 Narathiwat Fair 36 Nok Air 362, 363 Monkeys see Coconut Monkeys Naresuan the Great, King 41, 142 Nong Nooch Village (Pattaya) 108 Monk’s Bowl Village Naris, Prince 68 Northern (Morchit) 366, 367 (Bangkok) 52, 69 Na Thon 164 Nuat paen boran (Thai massage) 65 Montane Tropical Forest 18 Nation 82, 358, 361 Mopeds, renting 368 National anthem 355 O Movies 339 National Museum (Bangkok) 52, 55, Ok Phansa 36 muay thai 82, 283, 340 62–3, 336, 337 Opera, Chinese 73 Mu Ko Ra-Ko Phra Thong National National Museum (Chumphon) 154 Orang Syam, Buddhist Park 198, 203 National Museum Nakhon Si communities 285 Museums and Galleries Thammarat 193 Orchid Garden (Phuket) 220, 221, 224 Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum National Park, Wildlife, and Plant Organized Tours 365 (Bangkok) 70 Conservation Department booking a tour 365 Chaiya National Museum 160 (Bangkok) 344, 347 guided tours 365 Folklore Museum (Ko Yo) 284 National Parks tour buses and boats 365 Ho Phra Monthien Tham Ang Thong Marine National Park Outdoor Activities and Special (Bangkok) 59 11, 48, 158, 180–81 Interests 342–9 Jim Thompson’s House 52, 76–7 Ao Phang Nga National Park boat trips 344 King Bhumibol’s Photographic (Phang Nga Bay) 212, 217 bungee jumping 345 Museum (Bangkok) 70 Hat Chao Mai National Park 242, 265 canoeing 343 National Museum (Bangkok) 52, Hat Khanom-Mu Ko Thale Tai cultural study 345 55, 62–3 National Park 186 cycling 344–5 National Museum (Chumphon) 154 Hat Noppharat Thara - Mu Ko Phi diving and snorkeling 342–3 National Museum Nakhon Si Phi National Park (Krabi) 251 elephant riding 344 Thammarat (Nakhon Si Kaeng Krachan National Park golf 343 Thammarat) 193 (Phetchaburi) 132, 139 horse racing and riding 345 Patrsee Museum (Songkhla) 281 Khao Kitchakut National rock climbing 345 Phra Mondop (Bangkok) 58–9 Park 98, 116 sailing 343 Phuket Philatelic Museum Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Spa Breaks 348–9 (Phuket Town) 226 Park 198, 208 trekking 344 Phuket Seashell Museum Khao Lampi Hat Thai Muang watersports 343 (Hat Rawai) 237 National Park (Thai Muang) 216 white-water rafting and Ramakien Gallery (Bangkok) 56 Khao Luang National Park 158, 190 kayaking 343 Royal Barge Museum Khao Nor Chuchi Wildlife wildlife watching 344 (Bangkok) 52, 63 Sanctuary 242 Outlook 361 376 GENERAL INDEX

Personal Health and Security (cont.) Pirate Waterfall (Ko Tarutao) 275 P people- and animal-borne Pirates of the Andaman Coast 255 PADI (Professional Association of diseases 357 Planetariums Diving Instructors) 22 pharmacies 356 Bangkok Planetarium 79 Pak Bara 242, 268 tourist police 356 A Portrait of Thailand’s Beaches Pak Khlong Market (Bangkok) 52, 72 women travelers 356 and Islands 14–33 Pak Lat Festival (mid-Apr) 34 Pewterware 31, 336 Prachuap Khiri Khan 132, 148 Pak Nam Pran 142 Phahurat Market (Bangkok) 52, 72, hotels 299 Pak Nam Thung Tako 80, 81 restaurants 326 (Hat Arunothai) 155 Phaisan Thaksin Hall, Grand Palace Practical Information 352–61 Palaces (Bangkok) 61 admission charges 353 Marukhathaiyawan Palace Phanang River 190 Banking and Local Currency 358–9 (Phetchaburi) 132, 139 Phang Nga 216 body language 354 Palace of Rama V hotels 305 Communications and Media (Ko Si Chang) 103 restaurants 328 360–61 Suan Pakkad Palace Phang Nga Bay 11, 197, 198, 212–17 conversions 354 (Bangkok) 52, 75 Exploring Phang Nga Bay 216–17 customs information 352–3, 355 Taksin Palace (Narathiwat) 285 hotels 304–5 electricity 354 Vimanmek Mansion (Bangkok) 71 Phang Nga Bay Limestone embassies 355 Parking 368 Stacks 214–15 etiquette 354 Parks and Gardens restaurants 328 etiquette at wats 355 Dusit Park (Bangkok) 52, 68, Phanomyong, Pridi 44 facilities for children 353 70–71 Phetchaburi 10, 132, 136–8 facilities for the disabled 353, 355 Khao Phra Taew Park (Phuket) 221 Exploring Phetchaburi 136–9 greeting people 354 Khao Wang (Phetchaburi) 136 hotels 299 immunization 352 Khu Khut Waterbird Park restaurants 326 insect-borne diseases 357 () 282 Street-by-Street: Phetchaburi 134–5 language 353 King’s Royal Park (Bangkok) 79 Thailand’s Sweet and Dessert monks 355 King Taksin Park (Chanthaburi) 115 Capital 138 national anthem 355 Lumphini Park (Bangkok) 52, 74 Photography 354 opening hours 353 Million Years’ Stone Park and Phra Aphaimani 111 Personal Health and Security Crocodile Farm (Pattaya) 105 Phra Buddha Ratana Sathan, 356–7 Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park Grand Palace 61 photography 354 (Phetchaburi) 134, 136 Phra Chedi Boromathat (Wat Phra responsible travel 355 Phuket Orchid Garden 224 Mahathat Woramahawihan) 194 royalty 354 Pranburi Forest Park 142 Phra Chutathut Ratchasathan see smoking 354 Rang Hill (Phuket town) 222 Palace of Rama V (Ko Si Chang) suitable dress 355 Samui Butterfly Garden 168–9 Phra Khru Sammathakittikhun, Thai time system and calendar 354 Sa Nang Manora Forest Park Buddhist monk 167 tourist information 353, 355 (Phang Nga Bay) 216 Phra Mondop (Bangkok) 57, 58 visa and passports 352, 355 Secret Buddha Garden (Ko Samui) Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair 37 what to take 352 162, 166–7 Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park when to go 352 Siwalai Gardens (Bangkok) 61 (Phetchaburi) 135, 136 Pramoj, Seni 44 Suan Somdet Phra Sinakharin Park Phra Nang, Indian princess Pranburi 132, 142 (Phang Nga Bay) 217 The Legend of Phra Nang 251 hotels 299 Thale Noi Waterfowl Park Phra Pitak Chinpracha Mansion 227 Pranburi River 142 (Songkhla Lake) 282 Phra Ratchawang Ban Puen Prices Passports 352 (Phetchaburi) 137 in hotels 289 Patpong (Bangkok) 52, 74 Phu, Sunthorn (poet) 17, 42 in restaurants 313 Patpong Road (Bangkok) 51 Phra Aphaimani 111 Prison Camp (Ko Tarutao) 271 Patravadi Theater (Bangkok) 82, 83, The Poetry of Sunthorn Phu 111 Provincial Hall (Phuket Town) 224 339, 341 Phuket 11, 198, 220–39 Public holidays 37 Patrsee Museum (Songkhla) 281 airport 363 PULO (Pattani United Liberation Pattani 11, 278, 284 Exploring Phuket’s East Coast 234–7 Organization) 356 hotels 311 Exploring Phuket’s Outlying Puppets 30, 82, 336 see also Pattaya 10, 98, 104–7 Islands 238 Shadow Puppets Around Pattaya 108 Exploring Phuket’s West Coast 228– hotels 295–6 33 Q restaurants 323–4 hotels 305–8 Qantas Airlines 362, 363 Pattaya Elephant Village 105, 344, 347 Mansions of Phuket 226–7 Queen’s Birthday (Aug 12) 37 Pattaya Park Beach Resort 106 Pearls of the Andaman Sea 239 Pattaya Park Funny Land 106 Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival 225 R Pattaya Wan Lai or Water-Flowing Phuket Town 222–4 Rachabrapha Dam (Khao Sok Festival 34 restaurants 328–31 National Park) 206, 207 Pearls of the Andaman Sea 31, 239 Phuket Aquarium 236 Radio 360–61 People’s Alliance for Demoracy Phuket Butterfly Garden and Insect Rafflesia kerri 206 (PAD) 45 World 224 Railroad network 366 People’s Power Party (PPP) 45 Phuket Orchid Garden and Thai Railway Hotel (Hua Hin) 140, 141 Personal Health and Security 356–7 Village 224 Rama I, Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke 42 drugs 356 Phuket FantaSea (Phuket) 230 Emerald Buddha 59 in an emergency 356, 357 Phuket Philatelic Museum Grand Palace (Bangkok) 61 first-aid kit 357 (Phuket Town) 226 Heroines’ Monument (Phuket) 234 food- and water-borne-diseases 357 Phuket Seashell Museum Ho Phra Nak (Bangkok) 59 general precautions 356 (Hat Rawai) 237 Royal Barge Museum (Bangkok) 63 coping with the heat 357 Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival 225 Wat Arun (Bangkok) 66 insect-borne diseases 357 Phum Duang River 161 Wat Pho (Bangkok) 64 medical facilities 356, 357 Pink Dolphins of Sichon Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 58 minor stomach upsets 357 and Khanom 186 Wat Rakhang (Bangkok) 63 GENERAL INDEX 377

Rama I, Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke Ramathibodi, King 40 (cont.) Rambutan and Thai Fruit Festival 35 S Wat Saket (Bangkok) 69 Ramkhamhaeng, King 40, 69 Saan Chao Paw Khao Yai Wat Suthat (Bangkok) 67 Rang Hill (Phuket Town) 222 (Ko Si Chang) 102 Rama II, Buddha Loetle Nabhalai 56 Ranong 198, 200 Sadet River 175 Golden Mount (Bangkok) 69 hotels 308 Saekow, Somporn 171 Grand Palace (Bangkok) 61 restaurants 331 Saiburi 278, 285 Wat Arun (Bangkok) 66 Ratagasikorn, Sangaroon 78 Sailing 343, 346 Wat Bowonniwet (Bangkok) 67 Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium Samlors 364 Wat Kalayanimit (Bangkok) 66 (Bangkok) 340, 341 Samui Aquarium and Tiger Zoo 168 Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 56, 59 Rattanakosin style Samui Butterfly Garden 168–9 Rama III, King Nangklao Dusit Throne Hall, Grand Palace Samui Highlands 170 Khao Luang Cave 136 (Bangkok) 67 Samui Monkey Center 171 Wat Arun (Bangkok) 66 Wat Suthat (Bangkok) 67 Sanam Luang (Bangkok) Wat Bowonniwet (Bangkok) 67 Rayong 108 Street-by-Street: Around Sanam Wat Kalayanimit (Bangkok) 66 hotels 298 Luang 54–5 Wat Pho (Bangkok) 64 Reclining Buddha 64 Sa Nang Manora Forest Park Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 58, 59 Refunds 334 (Phang Nga Bay) 216 Rama IV, King Mongkut 43, 151 Refunds in shops 80 San Chao Bang Niew (Phuket Town) Chinese Mansions Regional dishes 314–15, 317 222, 224 (Phuket Town) 222 Religions San Chao Chui Tui (Phuket Town) Grand Palace (Bangkok) 60, 61 Thai Buddhism 24–5 222, 223 Khao Luang Cave 136 Islam 25 San Chao Put Jaw (Phuket Town) King Mongkut Memorial Park of Rentals 289 222, 223, 225 Science and Technology 150 Renting a Car, Moped, San Chao Sang Tham (Phuket Town) monkhood of 67 or Bicycle 368–9 223, 224 Phetchaburi 134 Reservoirs Sanctuary of Truth (Pattaya) 104 Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 58, 59 Bang Phra Reservoir 101 Saowapha Phongsi, Queen 62 Wat Ratchapradit (Bangkok) 62 Kaeng Krachan reservoir Sattahip (Pattaya) 108 Rama V 151 (Phetchaburi) 139 Satun 242, 268–9 Chinese Mansions Resort hotels 288 hotels 310 (Phuket Town) 222 Responsible travel 355 restaurants 333 Palace of Rama V Restaurants 312 see also Where to Eat Scuba diving 22 (Ko Si Chang) 103 Bangkok 318–22 Hat Tha Nam 123 Phra Nang Reua Lom 116 choosing a restaurant 318–33 Ko Mak 126 Phra Ratchawang Ban Puen Deep South 333 Seafood 313, 317 (Phetchaburi) 137 Eastern Searboard 322–4 Sea Gypsies 204 Rama V boulder (Ko Tao) 182 Lower Andaman Coast 331–3 Sea Turtles (Ko Tarutao) 271 Tham Phraya Nakhon (Hat Laem Lower Western Gulf Coast 326–8 Secret Buddha Garden (Ko Samui) Sala) 143 Upper Andaman Coast 328–31 162, 166–7 Wat Atsadang (Ko Si Chang) 104 Upper Western Gulf Coast 324–6 Shadow puppets 17, 30, 191 Wat Chonthara Sing He Rice dishes 317 Shadow Puppet Theater (Bangkok) (Tak Bai) 285 Richelieu Rock (Surin Islands Marine 193, 336, 337 Wat Salak Phet 125 National Park) 205 Shinawatra, Thaksin (Prime Minister) Wat Tham Suwan Khuha 217 Rights and refunds 334 17, 44–5 Rama V, King Chulalongkorn 43, 56 Ripley’s Believe It or Not (Pattaya) 107 Shiva, Hindu god 189, 192 Grand Palace (Bangkok) 60, 61 Rivers shiva lingas 189, 192 Hua Lampong Station Chao Phraya River 51, 52 Shophouses 28, 73, 134 (Bangkok) 72 Khlong Hat Sompen 200 Shopping in Bangkok 80–81 National Museum (Bangkok) 62 Khlong Hat Sompen River 200 antiques 81 Wat Benchamabophit (Bangkok) 68 Khlong Nung 125 books 81 Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 56 Phanang River 190 clothes 81 Wat Ratchabophit (Bangkok) 67 Phum Duang River 161 electronic goods 81 Rama VI, King Pranburi River 142 gems and jewelry 81 Grand Palace (Bangkok) 61 Sadet River 175 markets 80 Marukhathaiyawan Palace Roadside and market food practical information 80 (Phetchaburi) 139 stands 312–13 shopping districts 80 Provincial Hall (Phuket) 222 Roads see Rules of the road shopping malls 80 Siam Society 78 Road signs 369 silk and cotton 80 statue of 74 Rock climbing 345 Thai crafts 81 Rama VII, King Rock Paintings (Phang Nga Bay) 212 Shopping in Thailand’s Beaches Grand Palace (Bangkok) 61 Rose Garden (Bangkok) 338, 341 and Islands 334–7 Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 56 Rose Garden (Bangkok) 338, 341 antiques 336 Wat Tham Suwan Khuha 217 Royal Barge Museum arts and crafts 335 Rama IX, King (Bangkok) 52, 63 bargaining 334 43, 44, 45 Royal Carriage Museum ceramics 336 Buddhism 24 (Dusit Park) 71 clothes 335 Grand Palace (Bangkok) 61 Royal Chalermkrung Theater department stores and malls 334–5 Hat Sadet 175 (Bangkok) 338, 341 English-language bookstores 335 King’s Royal Park (Bangkok) 70 Royal Elephant Museum (Bangkok) 70 gems 336 monkhood 67 Royal Plowing Ceremony 37 hill-tribe artifacts 335 photography 70 Royal Thai Navy 117 how to pay 334 royal barge 63 Royalty 354 jewelry 336 Wat Mahathat Worawihan Royal White Elephants 69 lacquerware 336 (Phetchaburi) 137 Royal Wihan (Wat Phra Mahathat markets and street vendors 335 Wat Tham Suwan Khuha 217 Woramahawihan) 194 masks, puppets, and musical Ramakien 17 Rugby 340, 341 instruments 336 Ramakien Gallery (Bangkok) 59 Rules of the road 369 nielloware and pewterware 336 378 GENERAL INDEX

Shopping in Thailand’s Beaches Susaan Hoi (Krabi Coast) 248 Than Bok Koranee National and Islands (cont.) Sweets Park 242, 245 opening hours 334 sweet-making tradition 10 Than Mayom Port and rights and refunds 334 Thailand’s Sweet and Dessert Waterfall 124–5 Thai silk 335 Capital 138 Than Sadet National Park 175 Siew, god of longevity 224 Thao Thep Kasatri and Thao Si Silk T Sunthorn Festival 34 Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum Taiwand Wall (Krabi) 249 Tha Pom 242, 246 (Dusit Park) 70 Tak Bai 278, 285 Thavaro, Prasit (Buddhist monk) 102 shops 80 takraw 17, 340 Theme Parks Thompson, Jim 77 Taksin, King 37, 41, 66, 114 King Mongkut Memorial Park of Silpakorn University of Fine Arts King Taksin Park 115 Science and Technology 132, 150 (Sanam Luang) 54 King Taksin Shrine 115 Mini Siam (Pattaya) 105 Silvertip (Burma Banks) 205 Wat Arun 66 Nong Nooch Village (Pattaya) 108 Similan Islands Marine National Park Taksin Palace (Narathiwat) 285 Pattaya Park Funny Land 106 11, 198, 210–11 Takua Pa 208 Phuket Orchid Garden and Sino-Portuguese architecture Takua Pa, the Ancient Srivijayan Port Thai Village (Phuket Town) 224 mansions 29 of Takola 209 Phuket FantaSea (Phuket) 230 shophouses 28 Taxes 289 Theravada Buddhism 24 Sino-Thai architecture Taxis 364 Thompson, Jim 76, 77, 335 Mansions of Phuket 226–7 Tea 315 Jim Thompson’s House 52, 75, 76–7 Trang 264 Telephone Organization of Thailand Thonburi (Bangkok) Sirinath National Park (Phuket) 232 (TOT) 360 hotels 293 Si Thamma Sokharat, King 194 Television 360–61 restaurants 321 Smoking 354 Temple fairs 340 Thongsuk, Nim 166 Snacks 316 Tenasserim Mountains 131 Thot Pah Pa Klang Nam 37 Snooker 340, 341 Thachatchai Nature Trail (Phuket) 232 Tickets Snorkeling 22–3, 342–3 Thai Airways International 362, 363 buses 367 Soccer 340 Thai Boxing see muay thai entertainment 82 Som Tam 315 Thai Buddhism 24–5 train 366 Songkhla 11, 278, 280–81 Thai crafts 81 Time 361 hotels 311 Thai foot massages 127 Timeline restaurants 333 Thai hotels 288 Chakri Dynasty 42–3 Songkhla Lakes 278, 282 Thai Hotels Association 288, 289 History of Thailand 38–45 Songkhla National Museum 280 Thai khanom 138 Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 56 Songkram, Phibun 44 Thailand Cultural Center (Bangkok) Tinsulanond, Prem 44 Songkran 34, 37 339, 341 Tipping Soups 317 Thailand Golf Guide 343 in hotels 289 South East Asia Treaty Organization Thailand Golf Map 343 in restaurants 313 (SEATO) 44 Thailand Highways Map (Auto Guide To-Bu Cliff (Ko Tarutao Marine South Pattaya 107 Company) 369 National Park) 272 Spa Breaks 348–9 Thailand Highway Map (Roads Tom Yam Kung 314 day spas 349 Association) 369 Ton Nga Chang (Hat Yai) 280 destination spas 348–9 Thailand’s Beaches and Islands at a Tour buses and boats 365 hotel and resort spas 348 Glance 48–9 Tourism Authority of Thailand spa retreats 348 Thailand’s Beaches and Islands (TAT) 356, 357 spa treatments 349 through the Year 34–5 Tourist Assistance Center 356, 357 Spirit houses 29 Thailand’s Detroit see Chonburi Tourist information 353, 355 Sra Morakot (Khao Nor Chuchi Thailand’s Sweet and Dessert Tourist police 356, 357 Wildlife Sanctuary) 258 Capital 138 Traditional Boat Procession Sri Racha 98, 101 Thailand’s Vietnamese 115 and Races 36 restaurants 324 Thailand Tatler 361 Trains 367, 368 Sri Racha Tiger Zoo 98, 101 Thai Muang (Phang Nga Bay) 216 Trang 242, 264 Srivijaya Empire 39 Thai New Year see Songkran hotels 310–11 Chaiya’s Role in the Srivijaya Thai silk 335, 337 restaurants 333 Empire 161 Thai Silk Company 77 Trang Food Festival 34 Srivijaya port 209 Thai Theater and Music 26–7 Trang Moon Festival 36 State Railway of Thailand (SRT) 366 Thaiways 361 Trang Pork Festival 36 Suan Pakkad Palace (Bangkok) Thalang 234 Trang’s Vegetarian Festival 264 52, 75 Thalang National Museum Trat 98, 117 Suan Somdet Phra Sinakharin Park (Phuket) 234 hotels 298 (Phang Nga Bay) 217 Thale Ban National Park 242, 269 restaurants 324 Suitable dress 355 Thale Luang (Songkhla) 282 Travelers’ checks 359 Sukhothai Buddha Image, National Thale Noi (Songkhla Lake) 282 Travel Information 362–9 Museum (Bangkok) 62 Thale Noi Waterfowl Park air fares 362 Sukhumvit Road (Bangkok) 78–9 (Songkhla Lake) 282 arriving by air 362 Sunantha, Queen 116 Thale Sap Songkhla 282 domestic flights 362–3 Suntharanuraksa, Phraya 280 Tham Bua Bok Cave 181 getting to and from Suvarnabhumi Sunthorn Phu Day 35 Tham Jara-Khe (Ko Tarutao Marine International Airport 362 SUPPORT Museum (Bangkok) 70, 71 National Park) 272 green travel 363 Surat Thani 158, 161 Tham Khao Mai Kaew (Ko Lanta) 262 Local Transportation 364 hotels 304 Thammasat University (Bangkok) 55 Organized Tours 365 restaurants 328 Tham Nam Thalu (Khao Sok Renting a Car, Moped, Surat Thani Station 366, 367 National Park) 207 or Bicycle 368–9 Surin archipelago 15, 203 Tham Seua (Ko Lanta) 262 Suvarnabhumi International Surin Islands Marine National Park Tham Si Ru (Khao Sok Airport 362 11, 198, 204–5 National Park) 207 Traveling by Train, Bus, and Suryavarman II, King 39 Thanakuman, Prince 194 Boat 366-7 GENERAL INDEX 379

Trekking 344 Wats (cont.) What to Drink 315 Tripitaka (Buddha’s teachings) 24 Wat Bowonniwet (Bangkok) 52, 67 beers 315 Trooping of the Colors 37 Wat Bupharam (Trat) 117 coffee and tea 315 Tuk-tuks 364 Wat Cha-am (Phetchaburi) 139 fruit juices 315 Tung Tieo Forest Trail 258 Wat Chalong (Phuket) 236 wines and spirits 315 Turtle Releasing Festival 216 Wat Hin Lat (Ko Samui) 170 What to take 352 Wat Kalayanimit (Bangkok) 52, 66 When to go 352 U Wat Kamphaeng Laeng Where to Eat 312–33 Underwater Weddings (Phetchaburi) 135, 137 choosing a restaurant 318–33 (Ko Kradan) 267 Wat Khao Tham 177 coffee shops 312 Underwater World (Pattaya) 106–7 Wat Khao Tham Khan Kradai eating habits in Thailand 313 United Front for Democracy against 132, 148–9 The Flavors of Thailand 314–15 Dictatorship (UDD) 45 Wat Khlong Thom Nua Museum A Glossary of Typical Thai Upper Andaman Coast 196–239 242, 258 Dishes 316–17 getting around 199 Wat Khunaram (Ko Samui) 167 prices 313 hotels 304–8 Wat Mahathat (Bangkok) 52, 54, restaurants 312 James Bond Island 213 62, 345, 347 roadside and market food Mansions of Phuket 226–7 Wat Mahathat Worawihan stands 312–13 map 198–9 (Phetchaburi) 136–7 seafood 313 Pearls of the Andaman Sea 239 Wat Mongkol Nimit tipping 313 Phang Nga Bay 212–17 (Phuket Town) 223 Where to Stay 288–311 Phang Nga Bay Limestone Wat Pho (Bangkok) 52, 64–5, 345 bargaining 289 Stacks 214–15 Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 10, 52, booking 289 Phuket 220–39 53, 56–9 choosing a hotel 290–311 Phuket Town 222–4 Wat Phra Mahathat Woramawihan disabled travelers 289 Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival 227 (Nakhon Si Thammarat) 193, 195–5 facilities for children 289 restaurants 328–31 Wat Phra Nang Sang guesthouses 288 Upper Western Gulf Coast 130–55 (Thalang) 234–5 hotel grading and facilities 288, 289 getting around 132 Wat Phra Thong (Phuket) 235 luxury hotels 288 hotels 298–300 Wat Rakhang (Bangkok) 52, 63 prices 289 Hua Hin 140–41 Wat Ratchabophit (Bangkok) 52, rentals 289 Khao Sam Roi Yot National 66–7 resort hotels 288 Park 144–5 Wat Ratchapradit (Bangkok) 52, 62 staying in monasteries 289 The Kra Canal 154 Wat Saket (Bangkok) 52, 69 national parks 289 map 132–3 Wat Sao Thong Tong (Nakhon Si taxes 289 Mongkut, Thailand’s Scholar Thammarat) 192–3 Thai hotels 288 King 151 Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram tipping 289 restaurants 324–6 158, 160–61 White elephants 109 Street-by-Street: Phetchaburi 134–5 Wat Suthat (Bangkok) 52, 67 White-water rafting 343 Thailand’s Sweet and Dessert Wat Tapotaram (Ranong) 200 Wichai Prasit Fortress (Bangkok) 66 Capital 138 Wat Tham Seua 242, 244–5 Wihan Kien Museum (Wat Phra U Thong see Ramathibodi, King Wat Tham Suwan Khuha Mahathat Woramahawihan) 195 (Phang Nga Bay) 212, 217 Wihan Phra Song Ma (Wat Phra V Wat Tham Yai Prik Mahathat Woramahawihan) 194 VAT 289, 359 (Ko Si Chang) 102 Wihan Tap Kaset (Wat Phra Mahathat Vegetarian Festival 36 Wat Traimit (Bangkok) 52, 72 Woramahawihan) 194 Vegetarian Festival (Trang) 264 Wat Yai Suwannaram (Phetchaburi) Wildlife Sanctuaries Vejjajiva, Abhisit 17, 45 135, 137 Khao Nor Chuchi Wildlife Vernacular Architecture 28–9 Water-borne diseases 357 Sanctuary 242, 258 Malay houses 29 Water Buffalo Racing (Chonburi) 101 Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sino-Portuguese mansions 29 Waterfalls Sanctuary 116 Sino-Portuguese Shophouses 28 Bang Pae 235 Khlong Nakha Wildlife Sanctuary Spirit houses 29 Hin Lat Waterfall 170 198, 201 traditional Thai houses 28 Ke Rephet 125 Libong Archipelago Wildlife Victoria Point (Ranong) 200 Khlong Phlu Waterfall 123–3 Reserve (Ko Libong) 267 Vietnamese Quarter Klang Waterfall 116 Wildlife watching 344 (Chanthaburi) 114–15 Khlong Nung 125 Wines and spirits 315 View of the Three Hundred Peaks Krathing Waterfall 116 Women travelers 356 (Khao Sam Roi Yot Krung Ching Waterfall 190 Wooden shophouses National Park) 145 Nam Tok Chon Salat (Phetchaburi) 134 Vimanmek Mansion (Bangkok) 71, 103 (Ko Tarutao) 274 World Durian Festival 35 Vipassana Meditation 245 Nam Tok Hin Lat 187 World Fellowship of Buddhists Visakha Bucha 35, 37 Nam Tok Lam Ru 209 (Bangkok) 160, 345, 347 Visas 352, 355 Nam Tok Lo Po (Ko Tarutao) 273 Vishnu, god of the Hindu holy trinity Nam Tok Lu Du (Ko Tarutao) 273 Y 193, 234 Na Muang Waterfalls 167 Yaowarat District (Bangkok) 239 Phliw Waterfall 116 Yaowarat Road (Bangkok) 72 W Pirate Waterfall (Ko Tarutao) 275 Yasovarman I 39 Walking meditation 25 Than Mayom Waterfall 124–5 Yok Ong 226 Walking Street (Pattaya) 97, 107 Than Sadet Falls 175 Wang Na Palace (Bangkok) 62 Ton Nga Chang (Hat Yai) 280 Z Wan Lai Festival 34 Trok Nong Falls 116 Zoos Wats Watersports 127, 343 Dusit Zoo (Bangkok) 52, 68 Wat Amphawan (Ko Phangan) 172 Wattana, James 340 Khao Khieo Zoo 98, 100–101 Wat Arun (Bangkok) 52, 66 Weather Safari World (Bangkok) 344 Wat Atsadang (Ko Si Chang) 103 cool season 36–7 Samui Aquarium and Tiger Zoo Wat Benchamabophit (Bangkok) hot season 34–5 (Ko Samui) 168 27, 52, 68 rainy season 35–6 Sri Racha Tiger Zoo 98, 101 380 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Acknowledgments Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many Patravadi Theater, Somchai Bussarawit at people whose help and assistance contributed to Phuket Aquarium, Nam and Prompeth L the preparation of this book. at Tourism Authority of Thailand.

Main Contributor Photography Permissions Andrew Forbes has a Ph.D. in Central Asian Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the History. He lives in Chiang Mai and is an editor following for their assistance and kind permission with CPA Media. He has authored many books to photograph at their establishments: on Thailand and Eastern Asia. Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, Jim Thompson’s House, Joe Louis Theater, King Mongkut David Henley is a widely published photographer Memorial Park of Science and Technology, Marine whose work has appeared in National Geographic, Research Center, Marukhathaiyawan Palace, The The Washington Post and numerous international National Museum Bangkok, Royal Carriage publications and travel guides. Museum, Thai Ramakien Gallery, Than Bok Koranee National Park, Than Bok Koranee Peter Holmshaw has lived in Chiang Mai for more National Park, Under Water World Pattaya. than 20 years, and has contributed to several travel Also all the other temples, museums, hotels, guides on Southeast Asia. restaurants, shops, galleries and other sights too numerous to thank individually. Fact Checker Peter Holmshaw Picture Credits Indexer Cyber Media Services Ltd Placement Key- t=top; tc=top centre; tr=top right; cla=centre left above; ca=centre above; cra=centre Thai Translator Sulaganya Punyayodhin right above; cl=centre left; c=centre; cr=centre right; clb=centre left below; cb=centre below; Design and Editorial crb=centre right below; bl=bottom left; bc=bottom Publisher Douglas Amrine centre; br=bottom right; ftl=far top left; ftr=far top List Manager Vivien Antwi right; fcla=far centre left above; fcra=far centre Project Editor Michelle Crane right above; fcl=far centre left; fcr=far centre right; Editorial Consultants Hugh Thompson, fclb=far centre left below; fcrb=far centre right Scarlett O Hara below; fbl=far bottom left; fbr=far bottom right. Project Designer Shahid Mahmood Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris Every effort has been made to trace the copyright Managing Art Editor (jackets) Karen Constanti holders, and we apologize in advance for any Jacket Design Kate Leonard unintentional omissions. We would be pleased Senior DTP Designer Jason Little to insert appropriate acknowledgments in any Senior Picture Researcher Ellen Root subsequent edition of this publication. Production Controller Vicky Baldwin The publisher would like to thank the following Additional Photography individuals, companies, and picture libraries for their Rob Ashby, Philip Blenkinsop, Gerard Brown, kind permission to reproduce their photographs: Jane Burton, Peter Chadwick, Andy Crawford, Philip Gatward, Steve Gorton, Frank Greenaway, 4CORNERS IMAGES: SIME/Giovanni Simeone Will Heap, Stuart Isett, Hugh Johnson, Dave King, 46-47, /Schmid Reinhard 2-3. MATTHIAS Mathew Kurien, Cyril Laubscher, Alan Newham, AKOLCK: 181cr. ALAMY IMAGES: AA World David Peart, Roger Phillips, Tim Ridley, Alex Travel Library 259br; Ace Stock Limited 4br, 15b; Robinson, Rough Guides/ Ian Aitken, /Simon Victor Paul Borg 32bl; Pavlos Christoforou 14, Racken, Steve Shott, Michael Spencer, Kim Taylor 101tr, 204crb; Thomas Cockrem 79tr; Ray Evans and Jane Burton, Karen Trist, Richard Watson, 35br; F1online digitale Bildagentur GmbH 21bl; James Young. David Fleetham 20cl; Mike Goldwater 34bl; Ingolf Pompe17 163cr; Norma Joseph 80cr; Paul Special Assistance Kingsley 36c; John Lander 55bl; Chris McLennan Ruengsiri Sathirakul at Anantara Hua Hin Resort 177br; Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd 215tr; & Spa, Suwan Chakchit at Baipai Thai Cooking Leonid Serebrennikov 220cl; Neil Setchfield 17tr; School, Fann Kulchada and Joyce Ong at Martin Strmiska 204bl; Peter Titmuss 146-147; Banyan Tree Phuket, Adam Purcell at The Peter Treanor 24br, 97b, 109bl; WaterFrame 21tr; BigChilli Magazine, Puritad Jongkamonvivat at Terry Whittaker 206c; Andrew Woodley 23br. Nation Multimedia Group, Sirin Yuanyaidee at ANANTARA HOTELS, RESORTS & SPAS: 348cl. The National Museum Bangkok, Toby To at ARDEA.COM: Jean Paul Ferrero 153br. BAIPAI ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 381

THAI COOKING SCHOOL: 345br. BANGKOK 25tl, 25cra, 26tl, 26tr, 26cla, 26clb, 26bl, 26br, 27tl, AIRWAYS CO., LTD: 363tl. BANYAN TREE SPA 27tr, 27cr, 27crb, 27bl, 27bc, 27br, 29cr, 30tr, 30bl, PHUKET: 348br. THE BIGCHILLI MAGAZINE: 30-31c, 31cr, 37c, 40tl, 40cb, 42c, 42-43c, 43tr, 338c. BLACK MOUNTAIN RESORT AND 43clb, 69cb, 73cl, 73bl, 109ca, 109cr, 138cl, 149br, COUNTRY CLUB CO., LTD.: 343bc. THE 151crb, 155b, 161bl, 161br, 171cl, 187b, 227tr, BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY: The King of Siam on 239crb, 239br, 263tr, 278cl, 283tc. his Elephant, from an account of the Jesuits in PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/ Chua Wee Siam, 1688 (w/c on paper), French School, (17th Boo 150c, /Alan Copson 260br, /Alvaro Leiva century) /Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, France 255tr, /P Narayan 33cr, 350-351; All Canada /Archives Charmet /109cl. CHIVA-SOM: 349tr. Photos/ Kurt Werby 169tr; Brand X Pictures CORBIS: Bettmann 42tr, 44tl, 44bc; Christophe 11tr; Alexander Blackburn Clayton 51b; CPA Boisvieux 24clb; John Van Hasselt 26-27c, 338bl; Media 183tl; Digital Vision/ Nicholas Pitt 178-179; Ingo Jezierski 256-257; Brooks Kraft 45br; Franklin Hemis/ Safra Sylvain 34tc; Imagebroker.net/ McMahon 8-9; Narong Sangnak 35c; Scott Stulberg Norbert Eisele-Hein 345tl; Imagestate/ Art Media 48br; Sunset Boulevard 213br; Sygma 43c, /Mark Henley 49tr, /Steve Vidler 16bl, 212br, /Jean Leo Dugast 25cr; Staffan Widstrand 145cra. /The British Library 24-25c; Index Stock Imagery/ CPA MEDIA: Oliver Hargreave 209bl; David Jacob Halaska 1c; Jon Arnold Travel/ Alan Henley 24tr, 41tr, 43cr, 44c, 77br, 340br. GERALD Copson 119tl; Lonely Planet Images/ Claver CUBITT: 18cl, 18cr, 18crb, 18bc, 19tc, 19cl, 19cb, Carroll 340tl, /James Marshall 171tc; LOOK-foto/ 19bc, 19br, 20tr, 247crb. DK IMAGES: Courtesy of Ingolf Pompe 11bc; Mauritius/ Birgit Gierth 32cl; the Buddha Padipa Temple, Wimbledon/ Andy Oxford Scientific (OSF)/ Splashdown Direct 186bl; Crawford 24tl; Courtesy of The National Birds of Robert Harding Travel/ Gavin Hellier 283cl; Tips Prey Centre, Gloucestershire/ Frank Greenaway Italia/ Luca Invernizzi Tettoni 130, 218-219; 247tc; David Peart 21br, Courtesy of Whipsnade WaterFrame - Underwater Images/ Reinhard Zoo, Bedfordshire/ Dave King 201. FLPA: Terry Dirscherl 20br, 22br, 196. PRIVATE COLLECTION: Whittaker 18cb. GETTY IMAGES: AFP /Saeed 151bc, 283cr. REFLEXSTOCK: Alamy/ sdbphoto. Khan 45t, /Pornchai Kittiwongsakul 45crb, /Saeed com 59br. BRIAN NG TIAN SOON: 195br. Khan 45t, /Peter Parks 239clb; Iconica /Angelo SUPERSTOCK: Ben Mangor 239cl; Westend61 Cavalli 163tl; Photographer’s Choice /Georgette 22-23c. THAI AIRWAYS INTERNATIONAL PUBLIC Douwma 21tl, /Gavin Hellier 50; Stone /David COMPANY LIMITED: 362tc, 362bl. TOURISM Hanson 191c; Taxi /Hummer 369bc. THE AUTHORITY OF THAILAND: 138br, 264bl, 267tr, GRANGER COLLECTION, NEW YORK: 151cr. 342bl, 344bl, 353cl. Front Endpaper: GETTY: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM: Kevin Miller Photography Photographer’s Choice/Gavin Hellier tl; 13tr; Rontography 271tl; ShyMan 315c. THE PHOTOLIBRARY: WaterFrame - Underwater KOBAL COLLECTION: 20th Century Fox / Images/ Reinhard Dirscherl cl; Tips Italia/ Luca Mountain Peter 253tl. LONELY PLANET IMAGES: Invernizzi Tettoni cr Anders Blomqvist 243tr; Austin Bush 171clb, 180br; Felix Hug 31tr; Noboru Komine 37bl; Cover Picture Credits Bernard Napthine 268tr; Bill Wassman 171bc; FRONT COVER: ALAMY IMAGES: Vick Fisher clb; Carol Wiley 191br. MARY EVANS PICTURE PHOTOLIBRARY: Age Fotostock/Jose Fuste LIBRARY: 9c, 41bc, 42cl, 47c, 154clb, 287c, 351c. Raga main. MASTERFILE: Brad Wrobleski 360bl. NATIONAL BACK COVER: DK IMAGES: David Henley cla, clb, AERONAUTICS AND SPACE ADMINISTRATION: bl; PHOTOLIBRARY: Age Fotostock/Georgie 12bl. THE NATIONAL MUSEUM BANGKOK: 39ca, Holland tl. 39cb, 41cb, 62c. NATION MULTIMEDIA GROUP: SPINE: DK IMAGES: Phillip Blenkinsop b; 361tc. NATUREPL.COM: Geogette Douwma 20bl, PHOTOLIBRARY: Age Fotostock/Jose Fuste Raga t. 21cr. RAYMOND ONG: 195tl. ORIENT-EXPRESS HOTELS TRAINS & CRUISES: 367ca. PATRAVADI All other images © Dorling Kindersley THEATRE: 339cl. PHOTOBANK (BANGKOK): For further information see: www.dkimages.com

SPECIAL EDITIONS OF DK TRAVEL GUIDES DK Travel Guides can be purchased in To find out more, please contact: bulk quantities at discounted prices for (in the United States) [email protected] use in promotions or as premiums. (in the UK) [email protected] We are also able to offer special editions and personalized jackets, corporate (in Canada) DK Special Sales at general@ imprints, and excerpts from all of our tourmaline.ca books, tailored specifically to meet (in Australia) your own needs. [email protected] 382 PHRASE BOOK

Phrase Book Thai is a tonal language and regarded by most “silk.” The Thai script uses one of the most elaborate linguists as head of a distinct language group, alphabets in the world, running left to right and using although it incorporates many Sanskrit words from over 80 letters. In the third column of this phrase ancient India, and some modern English ones, too. book is a phonetic transliteration for English speak- There are five tones: mid, high, low, rising, and falling. ers, including guidance for tones in the form of The particular tone, or pitch, at which each syllable is accents. This differs from the system used elsewhere pronounced determines its meaning. For instance “mâi” in the guide, which follows the Thai Royal Institute’s (falling tone) means “not,” but “maˇi” (rising tone) is recommended romanization of common names.

In an Emergency GUIDELINES FOR PRONUNCIATION Help! 'tHE1†HE chôo-ay dôo-ay! When reading the phonetics, pronounce syllables Fire! WBWLD† fai mâi! as if they form English words. For instance: Where is the V3H6pwDpYF$AET7TG taˇir-o née mee a as in “ago” nearest hospital? rohng pa-yah- e as in “hen” NEjt4poWL6 i as in “thin” bahn yòo têe-naˇi? o as in “on” Call an ambulance! UFpE F3AET7TG rêe-uk rót pa-yah- u as in “gun” XL†L6tNE bahn hâi nòy! ah as in “rather” Call the police! UFpE 2FH%XL†L6tNE rêe-uk dtum ròo-ut ai as in “Thai” hâi nòy! air as in “pair” ao as in “Mao Zedong” Call a doctor! UFpE LDNXL†L6tNE rêe-uk moˇr hâi nòy! ay as in “day” Communication Essentials er as in “enter” ew as in “few” Yes X't or "F7"tS châi or krúp/kâ oh as in “go” No WDtX't mâi châi or mâi oo as in “boot” ‰ or WDt"F7WDt"tS krúp/ mâi kâ OO as in “book” Please can you …? 'tHE … chôo-ay … oy as in “toy” g as in “give” Thank you !N7"i0 kòrp-kOOn ng as in “sing” No, thank you WDtUNT !N7"i0 mâi ao kòrp-kOOn Excuse me/sorry !NY4I‰"F7"tS koˇr-tôht (krúp/kâ) These sounds have no close equivalents in English: Hello KHK1p‰"F7"tS sa-wùt dee eu can be likened to a sound of disgust – (krúp/kâ) the sound could be written as“errgh” bp a single sound between a “b” and a “p” Goodbye GT tN66S lah gòrn ná dt a single sound between a “d” and a “t” What? NSWF a-rai? Why? 4WD tum-mai? Note that when “p,” “t,” and “k” occur at the end Where? têe naˇi? of Thai words, the sound is “swallowed.” Also note 4poWL6 that many Thais use an “l” instead of an “r” sound. How? E$W$ yung ngai? Useful Phrases THE FIVE TONES Accents indicate the tone of each syllable. How are you? "i0K7TE1pLFlN kOOn sa-bai dee "F7"S reu (krúp/kâ)? no mark The mid tone is voiced at the Very well, thank K7TE1p‰‰"F7"tS sa-bai dee (krúp/kâ) speaker’s normal, even pitch. you – and you? VG†H"i0GtS – láir-o kOOn lâ? á é í ó ú The high tone is pitched slightly How do I get to …? … W8E$W$ … bpai yung- ngai? higher than the mid tone. Do you speak "i0Aj1CTITN$ PI kOOn pôot pah-saˇh à è ì ò ù The low tone is pitched slightly English? U8r6WLD ung-grìt bpen mái? lower than the mid tone. Could you speak 'tHEAj1'†TQL6tNE chôo-ay pôot cháh aˇ ě ˇı oˇ uˇ The rising tone sounds like a ques- slowly? W1†WLD cháh nòy dâi mái? tioning pitch, starting low and rising. I can’t speak Thai. Aj1CTITW4E pôot pah-saˇh tai â ê î ô û The falling tone sounds similar WDtU8r6 mâi bpen to an English speaker stressing a one-syllable word for emphasis. Useful Words woman/women 9j†L*`$ pôo-yıˇng MALE AND FEMALE POLITE FORMS man/men 9j†'TE pôo-chai In polite speech, Thai men add the particle child/children U1r dèk “krúp” at the end of each sentence; women add “ká” at the end of questions and “kâ” at the end hot F†N6 rórn of statements. These particles have been omitted cold UEr6 or L6TH yen or naˇo from all but the most essential polite terms in this good 1p dee phrase book, but they should be used as much as bad WDt1p mâi dee possible. The polite forms of the word “I” are, for open U8`1 bpèrt men, “poˇm” and, for women, “dee-chún.” closed 8`1 bpìt PHRASE BOOK 383

left (†TE sái tourist police 2FH%4tN$U4poEH dtum-ròo-ut tôrng right !HT kwaˇh têe-o straight ahead NEjt2F$L6†T yòo dtrong nâh beach LT1 or 'TELT1 hàht or chai-hàht on the corner of 2F$LHDiD dtrong hoˇo-a coral L`68S TF$ hıˇn bpa-gah-rung mOOm festival $T6NN F†T6 ngahn òrk ráhn near X G† glâi hill/mountain U!T kaˇo far W G glai historical park Ni4ET68FSH2`JT2Fq ÒO-ta-yahn bpra entrance 4T$U!†T tahng kâo wùt sàht exit 4T$NN tahng òrk island (ko) U TS gòr toilet L†N$6w hôrng náhm temple (wat) Hk1 wút museum A`A`5C0.q pí-pít-ta-pun Telephoning national park Ni4ET6VLt$'T2` ÒO-ta yahn hàirng Where is the nearest V3H6pwDpY4FJA4q taˇir-o née mee toh- châht public telephone? NEjt4poWL6 ra-sùp yòo têe-naˇi? park/garden KH6 soˇo-un 4po6poW1eWLD nêe dâi mái? river VDt6w mâir náhm Hello, this is … Ok6YG 9D1`&6 hello (poˇm/dee- Thai boxing DHEW4E moo-ay tai speaking. … Aj1 chún) … pôot Thai massage 6H1 nôo-ut "F7"tS (krúp/kâ) trekking TFU1`64T$U4†T gahn dern tahng I would like to !NAj1 7"i0 … koˇr pôot gùp khun táo speak to … L6tNE‰"F7"tS … nòy (krúp/kâ) waterfall 6w2 náhm dtòk Could you speak up 'tHEAj11$QL6tNE chôo-ay pôot Transportation a little, please? W1eWLD dung dung nòy dâi mái? When does the F3WBW8 … rót fai bpai … òrk local call Y4FJA4qCTEX6 toh-ra-sùp pai nai train for … leave? NN UDloNWF meu-rài? 4†N$3`o6 tórng tìn How long does it X'†UHGT6T6 chái way-lah phone booth/kiosk 2jeY4FJA4q dtôo toh-ra-sùp take to get to …? U4tTWFW83a$4po … nahn tâo-rài bpai phone card 72FY4FJA4q but toh-ra-sùp těung têe …? A ticket to … !N2cHW8 … L6tNE koˇr dtoˇo-a bpai … Shopping please. "F7"tS nòy (krúp/kâ) How much does 6poFT"TU4tTWF nêe rah-kah tâo-rài? I’d like to reserve a !N%N$4po6o$‰ koˇr jorng têe nûng this cost? seat, please. ‰ I would like … 2†N$ TF … dtôrng-gahn … Which platform for F3WBW8 … NEjt rót fai bpai … yòo Do you have …? Dp … WLD mee … mái? the … train? 'T6'TGTWL6 chahn cha-lah naˇi? I am just looking. 'D1jU4tT6m6 chom doo tâo-nún What station is this? 4po6poK3T6pNSWF têe nêe sa-taˇhn-nee Do you take credit F772FU"F1`2U'r"U1`6 rub but cray-dit/ a-rai? cards/travelers’ 4T$WLD chék dern tang Where is the bus 8eTEF3UDGqNEjt4poWL6 bpâi rót may yòo checks? mái? stop? têe-naˇi? What time do you U8`18`1 poYD$ bpèrt/bpìt gèe Where is the bus K3T6pF3UDGqNEjt4poWL6 sa-taˇhn-nee rót open/close? mohng? station? may yòo têe-naˇi? Can you ship this Kt$!N$6pwW82tT$‰ sòng khoˇng nee Which buses go F3UDGqKTEWL6W8 … rót may saˇi naˇi overseas? 8FSU4JW1eWLD‰ bpai dtàhng bpra- to …? bpai …? ‰ tâyt dâi mái? What time does the F3UDGqW8 ... rót may bpai … òrk cheap 3j tòok bus for … leave? gèe mohng? expensive VA$ pairng NN poYD$ Would you tell me … těung … láir-o chôo- gold 4N$ torng 3a$ VG†H when we get to ...? ay bòrk dôo-ay? hill-tribe handicrafts L2 FFD'THU!T hùt-ta-gum 'tHE7N 1†HE arrivals těung chao kaˇo 3a$ booking office têe jorng dtoˇo-a silver U$`6 ngern 4po%N$2cH bus station sa-taˇhn-nee rót may Thai silk 9†TWLDW4E pâh-maˇi tai K3T6pF3UDGq department store L†T$ hâhng departures NN òrk market 2GT1 dta-làht baggage room 4po@T !N$ têe fàhk koˇrng newsstand F†T6!TEL6$KlNA`DAq ráhn kaˇi núng-sěu ordinary bus F35FFD1T rót tum-ma-dah pim tour bus F34HFq rót too-a pharmacy F†T6!TEET ráhn kaˇi yah ticket 2cH dtoˇo-a tailor F†T621UKlwN ráhn dtùt sêu-a ferry UFlN!†TDBT reu-a kâhm fâhk train F3WB rót fai Sightseeing railroad station K3T6pF3WB sa-taˇhn-nee travel agent 7F`I46U4poEH bor-ri-sùt num rót fai têe-o moped F3DNU2NFqW("q rót mor-dter-sai tourist office K6 $T6 TF suˇm-núk ngahn bicycle F3% FET62q rót jùk-gra-yahn 4tN$U4poEH gahn tôrng têe-o taxi V4r (po táirk-sêe 384 PHRASE BOOK

Staying in a Hotel penicillin ETUA66`(pGG`6 yah pen-ní-seen-lin Do you have a DpL†N$HtT$WLD mee hôrng wâhng prescription X7Ko$ET bai sùng yah vacant room? mái? prickly heat 91 pòt double/twin room L†N$"jt hôrng kôo sore throat U%r7"N jèp kor single room L†N$U1poEH hôrng dèe-o stomach ache 8H14†N$ bpòo-ut tórng I have a %N$L†N$WH†VG†H jorng hôrng wái temperature 2HF†N6 dtoo-ah rórn reservation. láir-o traditional medicine yah paˇirn boh-rahn Will you spray 'tHE&p1ET 6Ei$XL† chôo-ay chèet yah ETV96Y7FT0 some mosquito L6tNEW1eWLD gun yOOng hâi vomit NTU%pE6 ah-jee-un repellent, please? nòy dâi mâi? Numbers air conditioner U"FloN$8F7NT TJ krêu-ung bprùp ah-gàht 0  or Jj6Eq soˇon fan A1GD pùt lom 1 : or L6ao$ nèung key i*V% gOOn-jair 2 ; or KN$ soˇrng toilet/bathroom hôrng náhm LwN$6w 3 < or KTD saˇhm Eating Out 4 Z or Kpo sèe A table for two !NY2uSKLF7 koˇr dtó suˇm-rùp 5 [ or L†T hâh please. KN$"6 soˇrng kon 6 \ or L hòk May I see the menu? !N1jUD6jL6tNE koˇr doo may-noo 7 ? or U%r1 jèt nòy 8 ] or V81 bpàirt Do you have …? … mee … mái? Dp WLD 9 or U †T gâo I’d like … !N koˇr … 10 : or K`7 sìp Not too spicy, ok? WDtUNTU9r1DT 6S mâi ao pèt mâhk na 15 :[‰ NQ‰ K`7L†T‰ sìp-hâh Is it spicy? U9r1WLD pèt mái? I can eat Thai food. 4T6NTLTFW4EU8r6 tahn ah-haˇhn tai 20 ; or EpoK`7 yêe-sìp bpen 30 < or KTDK`7 saˇhm-sìp May I have a glass !N6wV!r$U8GtT koˇr núm kaˇirng 40 Z or KpoK`7 sèe-sìp of water, please. V †HL6ao$ bplào gâir-o nèung 50 [ or L†TK`7 hâh-sìp I didn’t order this. nêe mâi dâi sùng 6pwWDtW1†Ko$ 60 \ or L K`7 hòk-sìp "F7"S (krûp/kâ) 70 ? or U%r1K`7 jèt-sìp Waiter/waitress! "i0 "F7"S kOOn (krúp/kâ) 80 ] or V81K`7 bpàirt-sìp The check, please. !N7`GL6tNE koˇr bin nòy "F7"tS (krúp/kâ) 90  or U †TK`7 gâo-sìp bottle !H1 kòo-ut 100 : or L6ao$F†NE nèung róy chopsticks 2SU pE7 dta-gèe-up 200 ; or KN$F†NE soˇrng róy fork K†ND sôrm 1,000 : or L6ao$A6 nèung pun menu UD6j may-noo 10,000 :  or L6ao$LDlo6 nèung mèun spoon '†N6 chórn 100,000 :  or L6ao$VK6 nèung saˇirn water 6w náhm Time and Seasons Health I do not feel well. Fj†Ka WDtK7TE róo-sèuk mâi sa-bai one minute L6ao$6T4p nèung nah-tee It hurts here. U%r72F$6pw jèp dtrong née one hour L6ao$'oHYD$ nèung chôo-a I have a 2HF†N6U8r6W!† dtoo-a rórn bpen mohng fever. kâi half an hour "Fao$'oHYD$ krêung chôo-a I’m allergic to … 9D1`&6‰‰VA† ... (poˇm/dee-chún) mohng páir … quarter of an hour K`7L†T6T4p sìp-hâh nah-tee asthma YF"Ll1 rôhk hèut midnight U4poE$"l6 têe-ung keun dentist 462VA4Eq tun-dta-pâirt noon têe-ung wun or LDNB6 or moˇr fun U4poE$H6 diabetes YF"U7TLHT6 rôhk bao waˇhn a day L6ao$H6 neung wun diarrhea 4†N$UKpE tórng sěe-a a weekend Ki1Kk81TLq sÒOt sùp-pah-dah dizzy UHpE6LH wee-un hoˇo-a a week L6ao$NT4`2Eq nèung ah-tìt doctor LDN moˇr a month L6ao$U1lN6 nèung deu-un dysentery YF"7`1 rôhk bìt a year L6ao$8p nèung bpee fever W!† kâi cool season L6†TL6TH nâh naˇo heart attack LHX%HTE hoˇo-a jai wai hot season nâh rórn hospital YF$AET7TG rohng pa-yah-bahn L6†TF†N6 injection &p1ET chèet yah rainy season L6†T@6 nâh foˇn medicine ET yah vacation Hk6LEi1 wun yÒOt