EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THAILAND’S BEACHES & ISLANDS BEACHES • WATER SPORTS RAINFORESTS • TEMPLES FESTIVALS • WILDLIFE SCUBA DIVING • NATIONAL PARKS MARKETS • RESTAURANTS • HOTELS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose SENIOR EDITORIAL MANAGER Savitha Kumar SENIOR DESIGN MANAGER Priyanka Thakur PROJECT DESIGNER Amisha Gupta EDITORS Smita Khanna Bajaj, Diya Kohli DESIGNER Shruti Bahl SENIOR CARTOGRAPHER Suresh Kumar Longtail tour boats at idyllic Hat CARTOGRAPHER Jasneet Arora Tham Phra Nang, Krabi DTP DESIGNERS Azeem Siddique, Rakesh Pal SENIOR PICTURE RESEARCH COORDINATOR Taiyaba Khatoon PICTURE RESEARCHER Sumita Khatwani CONTRIBUTORS Andrew Forbes, David Henley, Peter Holmshaw CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHER David Henley HOW TO USE THIS ILLUSTRATORS Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil GUIDE 6 Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China First American Edition, 2010 INTRODUCING 10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 THAILAND’S Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc., BEACHES AND 375 Hudson Street, New York 10014 ISLANDS Copyright © 2010, Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company DISCOVERING ALL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN THAILAND’S BEACHES A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, AND ISLANDS 10 ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. PUTTING THAILAND’S A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS BEACHES AND ISLANDS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ON THE MAP 12 ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-7566-6018-5 A PORTRAIT OF Front cover main image: Limestone stacks rising dramtically out of the THAILAND’S BEACHES sapphire waters of Ao Maya, Ko Phi Phi Leh AND ISLANDS 14 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 34 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. An elephant sharing the road with cars in South Pattaya View of islets rising from the calm lagoon surrounding Ao Maya, Ko Phi Phi Leh BANGKOK 50 EASTERN SEABOARD 96 UPPER WESTERN GULF COAST 130 LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST 156 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST 196 THE HISTORY Kayaking into limestone caves, OF THAILAND Than Bok Koranee National Park 38 SHOPPING IN THAILAND’S THAILAND’S BEACHES BEACHES AND AND ISLANDS 334 ISLANDS AREA BY AREA ENTERTAINMENT IN THAILAND’S BEACHES THAILAND’S BEACHES Nang talung AND ISLANDS 338 AND ISLANDS AT puppet A GLANCE 48 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES LOWER ANDAMAN AND SPECIAL COAST 240 INTERESTS 342 DEEP SOUTH 276 SURVIVAL GUIDE TRAVELERS’ NEEDS PRACTICAL INFORMATION 352 WHERE TO STAY 288 TRAVEL INFORMATION WHERE TO EAT 312 362 Diver exploring coral reefs rich in GENERAL INDEX 370 marine life, Ko Chang ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 380 PHRASE BOOK 382 Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, Nakhon Si Thammarat INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS DISCOVERING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 1011 PUTTING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS ON THE MAP 1213 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 1433 THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 3437 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND 3845 10 INTRODUCING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS DISCOVERING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS hailand’s long and diverse Upper Western Gulf Coast, Lower coastline has beautiful Western Gulf Coast, Lower Ttropical islands ranging Andaman Coast, Upper in size from Phuket, which is Andaman Coast, and the Deep nearly as large as Singapore, to Frangipani South. The capital city of Bangkok flower tiny palm-fringed outcrops. Even is the gateway to the coast and the most enthusiastic island hopper Southeast Asia’s largest and most will be spoiled for choice. The vibrant city. Below is an overview of coastline divides conveniently into six the highlights of the city and the sun- major regions – Eastern Seaboard, drenched beaches and islands. city is to take a boat tour where visitors can enjoy the through its canals. From scenic beauty and wildlife floating markets to trendy along forest trails. The best- shopping malls, Bangkok is known islands in this region a shopper’s haven. After are Ko Samet (see pp110–13) dark, the city comes alive and Ko Chang (see pp118– with entertainment options 26). The more developed Ko ranging from traditional Samet, is a good weekend theaters and chic nightclubs trip from Bangkok, while to gourmet restaurants. Ko Chang’s serene beaches separate its hilly interior from some of the finest diving EASTERN SEABOARD waters in the gulf. • Pattaya’s dual identity Majestic spires rising against the • Chanthaburi’s gems UPPER WESTERN sky, Wat Phra Kaeo, Bangkok • Ko Samet’s sandy beaches GULF COAST • Diving off Ko Chang • Royal Phetchaburi BANGKOK Pattaya (see pp104–8) is • Historic Hua Hin notorious for its buzzing and • Cha-am’s beaches • Glittering temples risqué nightlife, especially in • Pristine national parks • Canals and colorful the south. However, the floating markets north attracts a family crowd Ancient Phetchaburi (see • Unparalleled shopping offering watersports, enter- pp134–8) has beautiful • Sizzling nightlife tainment, and a fine selection temples and boasts an of restaurants. ancient sweet-making Bangkok is truly a city of Chanthaburi (see pp114– tradition (see p138). Further contrasts. Ultramodern 15) is an old gem-mining south lies the famous Hua glass-and-steel skyscrapers town famous for its weekend Hin (see pp140–41), the dominate the cityscape, gem markets. Within easy oldest beach resort and a towering over 19th-century reach of the town are some favorite of the royal family. Classical architecture. The less-visited reserves such Cha-am (see p139), just north ethnic diversity of Chinatown as the Khao Kitchakut of Hua Hin, is an ideal (see p72) is offset by the National Park (see p116) weekend getaway from historic Rattanakosin Island, with its grand and traditional Thai architecture. This in turn opens up into the finan- cial center at Silom Road, and the shopping malls and souvenir stalls of Phloen Chit and Sukhumvit (see p78) Roads. A truly memorable sight for visitors is the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (see pp56–61), housing a number of rare artifacts. A good way to get a feel of the Lively street with neon signs in South Pattaya Artist’s impression of vendors hawking their wares at a colorful floating market in Bangkok DISCOVERING THAILAND’S BEACHES AND ISLANDS 11 Bangkok. Also located in this region is the sprawling Kaeng Krachan National Park (see p139), and the beautiful limestone studded Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park (see pp144–5). LOWER WESTERN GULF COAST • Beaches of Ko Samui and Ko Phangan • Diving off Ko Tao • Azure waters of Ang Thong Marine National Park • Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Wat Phra Mahathat The islands of Ko Samui (see pp162–71) and Ko Ko Khao Phing Kan or James Bond Island in Phang Nga Bay Phangan (see pp172–7) are renowned for their palm- the country’s best dive sites. rapidly developing Trang fringed beaches. The latter is Just a little inland lie the lush (see p264) is a good base for also famous for its “full forests of Khao Sok National exploring the offshore moon” parties. The neigh- Park (see pp206–7) and the islands of Ko Muk and Ko boring island of Ko Tao (see lesser known Ao Phang Nga Kradan (see p266), where pp182–5), is very popular for National Park (see p217). visitors can find secluded its superb dive sites. beaches. Farther offshore is The beautiful Ang Thong the lovely Ko Tarutao Marine Marine National Park (see LOWER ANDAMAN COAST National Park (see pp270–75) pp180–81) is a verdant archi- which has some of the best pelago southwest of Ko • Sunbathing in Ko Phi Phi diving sites in the world. Samui. Farther south lies the • Rock climbing along the ancient cultural center of Krabi Coast Nakhon Si Thammarat (see • Trang’s offshore islands DEEP SOUTH pp192–5), home to the • Ko Tarutao’s idyllic and revered Wat Phra Mahathat deserted beaches • Quaint Songkhla (see pp194–5). • Bird-watching at the Ko Phi Phi (see pp252–5) is Songkhla Lakes famous for its towering cliffs, • Languid Narathiwat UPPER ANDAMAN COAST horseshoe bays, and pristine beaches. The Krabi Coast The Deep South marks a • Phuket’s luxurious resorts (see pp248–51), by contrast, transition between the Thai- • Diving among the corals off is quiet and draws a young Buddhist and Malay-Muslim Surin and Similan Islands crowd who go rock climbing worlds. The ancient fishing • Trekking in national parks in the cliffs and caves around port of Songkhla (see pp280– • Exploring Phang Nga Bay Hat Rai Leh (see p248). The 81) retains its delightful period charm despite being The island of Phuket (see transformed by oil wealth. pp220–39) is a perfect Geographically, this region is holiday spot with its upscale dominated by the Songkhla resorts, gourmet restaurants, Lakes (see p282) that is shopping malls, and fine home to a spectacular white sand beaches.