Thailand & Lower Gulf (Chapter)

Edition 14th Edition, February 2012 Pages 67 PDF Page Range 535-601

Coverage includes: Gulf Islands, Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan, , Ang Thong Marine National Park, Thani Province, , Ao Khanom, , & Around, , Deep South, Yala, Pattani, Narathiwat and Sungai Kolok.

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Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf

Why Go? Ko Samui ...... 538 The Lower Gulf features ’s ultimate island trifecta: Ko Pha-Ngan ...... 556 Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Tao. This family of spec- tacular islands lures millions of tourists every year with Ko Tao ...... 571 their powder-soft sands and emerald waters. Ko Samui is Ang Thong Marine the oldest brother, with a business-minded attitude towards National Park ...... 586 vacation. High-class resorts operate with Swiss effi ciency Surat Thani ...... 587 as uniformed butlers cater to every whim. Ko Pha-Ngan is Ao Khanom ...... 589 the slacker middle child with tangled dreadlocks and a pen- Nakhon Si chant for hammock-lazing and all-night parties. Baby Ko Thammarat ...... 591 Tao has plenty of spirit and spunk – off ering high-adrenaline Songkhla & Around ...... 593 activities, including world-class diving and snorkelling. Hat Yai ...... 593 Travellers seeking something a bit more off the radar Deep South ...... 595 than these island brethren will fi nd a thin archipelago of Yala ...... 595 pin-sized islets just beyond. Known as Ang Thong Marine Pattani ...... 598 National Park, this ethereal realm of greens and blues of- fers some of the most picture-perfect moments in the entire Narathiwat ...... 599 kingdom. Sungai Kolok ...... 600 Wh en To Go Best Places to Eat From February to April celebrate endless sunshine after the » Dining On The Rocks monsoon rains have cleared. From June to August – which (p 550 ) conveniently coincides with the Northern Hemisphere’s » Five Islands (p 551 ) summer holidays – are some of the most inviting months in the region, with relatively short drizzle spells. » The Whitening (p 582 ) From October to December torrential monsoon rains rat- tle hot-tin roofs like anxious fi ngernails, as room rates drop Best Places to signifi cantly to lure a few optimistic beach-goers Stay » Six Senses Samui (p546 ) » Anantara Bo Phut (p547 ) » L’Hacienda (p547 ) » Sarikantang (p 561 ) » The Sanctuary (p566 )

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Hua Sai Hua Krabi 538 GULF ISLANDS from Hainan Island initially settled Samui and today these unique roots have blos- somed into a small community that remains Ko Samui เกาะสมยุ hidden beneath the glossy holiday veneer. POP 40,230 Sights At fi rst glance, Ko Samui could be mistaken 1 for a giant golf course fl oating in the Gulf Ko Samui is quite large – the island’s ring of Thailand. The greens are perfectly mani- road is almost 100km total. cured, sand traps are plentiful, and there’s Chaweng BEACH a water hazard or two thrown in for good (Map p540 ) This is Ko Samui’s most popular measure. Middle-aged men strut about don- spot – it’s the longest and most beautiful ning white polo shirts that contrast with beach on the island. The sand is powder their cherry-red faces, while hired lackeys soft, and the water is surprisingly clear, con- carry around their stuff . But Samui is far sidering the number of boats and bathers. from being an adults-only country club – Picture ops are best from the southern part a closer look reveals steaming street-side of the beach, with stunning views of the hilly

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI food stalls, 2am jetsetter parties, secreted headland to the north. Buddhist temples, and backpacker shanties plunked down on a quiet stretch of sand. Hin-Ta & Hin-Yai LANDMARK Ko Samui is very much a choose-your- At the south end of Lamai, the second- own-adventure kinda place that strives, like largest beach, you’ll fi nd these infamous a genie, to grant every visitor their ultimate stone formations (also known as Grandfa- holiday wish. You want ocean views, daily ther and Grandmother Rocks). These rocks, massages and personal butlers? Poof – here shaped like genitalia provide endless mirth are the keys to your private poolside villa. to giggling Thai tourists. It’s a holistic aura-cleansing vacation you’re after? Shazam – take a seat on your yoga Hua Thanon NEIGHBOURHOOD mat before your afternoon colonic. Wanna Just beyond Lamai, Hua Thanon is home party like a rockstar? Pow – trance your way to a vibrant Muslim community, and its an- down the beach with the throngs of whisky- chorage of high-bowed fi shing vessels is a GULF ISLANDS bucket-toting tourists. veritable gallery of intricate designs. Beyond the merry-making machine, Bo Phut NEIGHBOURHOOD the island also off ers interested visitors a (Map p542 ) Although the northern beaches glimpse into local life. Chinese merchants have coarser sand and aren’t as striking as

GULF ISLANDS IN…

ONE WEEK First, shed a single tear that you have but one week to explore these idyllic islands. Then start on one of Ko Pha-Ngan’s secluded beaches in the west or east to live out your ultimate castaway fantasies. For the second half of the week choose between partying in Hat Rin, pampering over on Ko Samui, or diving on li’l Ko Tao. TWO WEEKS Start on Ko Tao with a 3½-day Open Water certifi cation course (or, if you already have your diving licence, sign up for a few fun dives). Slide over to Ko Pha-Ngan and soak up the sociable vibe in party-prone Hat Rin. Then, grab a long-tail and your luggage and make your way to one of the island’s hidden coves for a few days of detoxing and quiet contemplation. Ko Samui is next on the agenda. Try Bo Phut for boutique sleeps, or live it up like a rock star on Chaweng or Choeng Mon beach. And, if you have time, do a day trip to Ang Thong Marine National Park. ONE MONTH Follow the two-week itinerary at a more relaxed pace, infusing many extra beach-book- and-blanket days on all three islands. Be sure to plan your schedule around the Full Moon Party, which takes place at Hat Rin’s Sunrise Beach on Ko Pha-Ngan. 539 e 05km

Ko Samui # 02.5miles ‚

‚ To Ko Pha-Ngan (15km); To Ko Pha-Ngan Ao Samrong (25km) Wat Na Phalan Ko Tao (62km) Laem Na Ko Som Ú# Ao Bang Po Ú# Wat Plai Laem Phra Lan Wat Ban Tai #\ Hat Choeng Mon Ban Bang Po #\ Ù# Laem 66666Sai Phra Yai Ù# Laem Yai Hat Mae Nam f# Ko Fan Yai #\ Ú# Hat Bo Phut Ban Mae Nam Big î# Hyperbaric #\ Ù# Hat Ang Thong Ban Bo Phut BuddhaÙ# Chamber Ù# ö# R(467m) 4444Beach 4 ö# î# –# Bandon ‚ f# #\ ö# Ko Matlang Na Thon International î# To Surat Samui 666666Tourist R Hospital 4International (465m) Chaweng Thani Police ñ# Ban Lipa Yai #\ Lake Hospital (76km) # Immigration Office î# # Y Samui Ú# Hat Chaweng Hospital Nam Tok Hin Lat ö# Ù# ‚ Wat Hin Lat R To Ang Thong Ban Lipa Noi #\ Khao Pom Ù# Marine National #\ (630m) Hat Chaweng Noi Park (31km) Ban Saket KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Coral Cove GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI 66666Laem Chon Khram6 Khao Phlu (565m) Ao Thong Yang Nam Tok Na Muang f# #Y R Ao Thong Ta ‚ #\ Ban Lamai Thong #Y #\ Khian To Don Sak (30km); Ya n g Ù# 444Laem Khanom (35km) Nam Tok Ban Thurian Hat Nan #\ Wang Saotong Ao Taling Ngam #\ Ban Taling Ngam Lamai Khao Khwang R Ú#Wat Khunaram 66666(410m) 666444#\ 44 Ban Hua Thanon Wat SamretÚ# Ao Phangkka Ban Bang Kao#\ R #\ Khao #æSamui Aquarium & Tiger Zoo Ban Phang Ka #\Ban Thong Krut Thaleh f# Ù#Hat Na Thian Laem Laem Hin Khom Ao Thong Ú# Ao Bang Kao Set Krut Wat Laem Saw GULF OF 66666Laem GULF OF Saw THAILAND KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS SIGHTS THAILAND

Ko To Ko Mat Sum (2km) Taen ‚

the beaches in the east, they have a laid-back Wat Hin Lat TEMPLE vibe and stellar views of Ko Pha-Ngan. Bo (Map p539 ; %0 7742 3146) On the western part Phut stands out with its charming Fisher- of Samui, near the waterfalls of the same man’s Village; a collection of narrow Chinese name, is a meditation temple that teaches shophouses that have been transformed into daily vipassana courses. trendy resorts and boutique hotels. Nam Tok Hin Lat WATERFALL Nam Tok Na Muang WATERFALL (Map p539 ) Near Na Thon, this is worth vis- (Map p539 ) At 30m, this is the tallest waterfall iting if you have an afternoon to kill before on Samui and lies in the centre of the island taking a boat back to the mainland. After about 12km from Na Thon. The water cas- a mildly strenuous hike over streams and cades over ethereal purple rocks, and there’s boulders, reward yourself with a dip in the a great pool for swimming at the base. This pool at the bottom of the falls. Keep an is the most scenic – and somewhat less fre- eye out for the Buddhist temple that posts quented – of Samui’s falls. There are two signs with spiritual words of moral guid- other waterfalls in the vicinity: a smaller ance and enlightenment. Sturdy shoes are waterfall called Na Muang 2, and, thanks recommended. to recently, improved road conditions, the Wat Laem Saw TEMPLE high drop at Nam Tok Wang Saotong (Map p539 ). These chutes are situated just north (Map p539 ) For temple enthusiasts, Wat Laem of the ring road near Hua Thanon. Saw, at the southern end of Samui near Ban Phang Ka, has an interesting, highly vener- ated old -style stupa. 540 e# 01km Hat Chaweng 00.5miles A 44444444B C D 1 444444441 44444444 ÿ# ÿ# Laem 22 Son #–Airport ÿ# 8 Samui 19 44444444International î# 2 Ø# Hospital 2 Chaweng 4 ý# ÿ# 2 27 ú# 4444444436 16 33 Soi Solo ÿ# 17

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Wat Phra Yai TEMPLE Wak Khunaram, which is south of Rte 4169 (Temple of the Big Buddha; Map p539 ) At Samui’s between Th Ban Thurian and Th Ban Hua. northern end, on a small rocky island linked Its monk, Luang Phaw Daeng, has been by a causeway, is Wat Phra Yai. Erected in dead for over two decades but his corpse is 1972, the modern Buddha (sitting in the preserved sitting in a meditative pose and Mara posture) stands 15m high and makes sporting a pair of sunglasses. an alluring silhouette against the tropical sky and sea. Nearby, a new temple, Wat Plai Wat Samret TEMPLE Laem (Map p 539), features an enormous (Map p539 ) At Wat Samret, near Th Ban Hua, 18-armed Buddha. you can see a typical Mandalay sitting Bud- dha carved from solid marble – a common Wat Khunaram TEMPLE sight in and , but (Map p539 ) Several temples have the mum- not so common in the south. mifi ed remains of pious monks, including 541 Hat Chaweng Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 22 Tango Beach Resort ...... D2 1 Blue Stars ...... B3 2 Diveversity ...... C2 ú Eating 3 Samui Institute of Thai 23 Betelnut@Buri Rasa...... B4 Culinary Arts...... B4 24 's Cantina...... B3 4 Samui Planet Scuba...... B3 25 Khaosan Restaurant & Bakery...... B3 ÿ Sleeping 26 Laem Din Market...... B4 5 Akwa ...... B5 Page ...... (see 13) 6 Ark Bar ...... C3 27 Prego...... C2 7 Baan Chaweng Beach Samui Institute of Thai Resort...... B3 Culinary Arts ...... (see 3) 8 Baan Haad Ngam...... D2 28 Wave Samui ...... B4 9 Baan Samui ...... B3 29 Zico's...... B4 10 Centara Grand...... B4 KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI 11 Chaweng Garden Beach ...... B3 û Drinking 12 Kirikayan Boutique Ark Bar...... (see 6) Resort...... B5 30 Bar Solo ...... C3 13 Library ...... B3 31 Good Karma...... B5 14 Loft Samui ...... B4 32 Tropical Murphy's ...... B3 15 Lucky Mother ...... C3 16 Muang Kulay Pan Hotel...... C2 ý Entertainment 17 Nora Chaweng...... C2 33 Christy's Cabaret ...... C2 18 P Chaweng...... B4 34 Green Mango ...... B3 19 Pandora Boutique Hotel ...... D2 35 Mint ...... B3 20 Queen Boutique Resort ...... B4 36 Q-Bar...... B2 21 Samui Hostel...... B4 37 Reggae Pub ...... B3 KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS ACTIVITIES

2 Activities Ko Samui’s hyperbaric chamber is at Big Buddha Beach (Hat Bang Rak). Diving If you’re serious about diving, head to Ko 100 Degrees East DIVING Tao and base yourself there for the duration (%0 7742 5936; www.100degreeseast.com; Bang of your diving adventure. If you’re short on Rak) Highly recommended. time and don’t want to leave Samui, there are plenty of operators who will take you Diveversity DIVING to the same dive sites (at a greater fee, of (Map p540 ; %0 7741 3196; www.diveversity.nl; Hat course). Try to book with a company that Chaweng) Based at the Amari Hotel. has its own boat (or leases a boat) – it’s Samui Planet Scuba DIVING slightly more expensive, but you’ll be glad (SIDS; Map p540 ; %0 7723 1606; samuiplanet you did it. Companies without boats often [email protected]; Hat Chaweng) shuttle divers on the passenger catamaran to Ko Tao, where you board a second boat to Other Activities reach your dive site. These trips are arduous, Blue Stars KAYAKING, SNORKELLING meal-less and rather impersonal. (Map p540 ; %0 7741 3231; www.bluestars.info; trips Certifi cation courses tend to be twice as 2600B) For those interested in snorkelling expensive on Ko Samui as they are on Ko and kayaking, book a day trip to the stun- Tao, this is largely due to use of extra petrol, ning Ang Thong Marine Park. Blue Stars, since tiny Tao is signifi cantly closer to the based in Hat Chaweng on Ko Samui, off ers preferred diving locations. You’ll drop be- guided sea-kayak trips in the park. tween 16,000B and 22,000B on an Open Wa- Football Golf SPORT ter certifi cation, and fi gure between 3200B ( %08 9771 7498; %9am-6.30pm) At Choeng and 6200B for a diving day trip depending Mon there’s a strange combustion called on the location of the site. ‘football golf’ where you ‘putt’ your football 542 e# 01km Bo Phut 00.5miles A 444444B C D 66667 ÿ# GULF OF 3 444444ÿ# f# THAILAND 4444 1 11 13 5 1 12 û# ÿ# ÿ# ý# 6 10 û# ú# 2 ÿ# ú# Beac 14 h Rd 1 ú# 8 444444ÿ# 4 44444171 6666ÿ# ú# 0¸ 9 Fisherman's 4444Village

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6666Bo Phut ÿ Sleeping 9 Shack Bar & Grill...... C1 1 Anantara ...... B1 10 Starfish & Coffee...... C1 2 B1 Villa Spa ...... C1 11 Villa Bianca...... C1 3 Ibis Bo Phut ...... B1 Zazen ...... (see 7) 4 Khuntai...... C1 5 L'Hacienda...... C1 û Drinking 6 Lodge...... C1 12 Billabong Surf Club ...... C1 7 Zazen...... A1 13 Pier ...... C1

GULF ISLANDS ú Eating ý Entertainment 8 Karma Sutra ...... C1 14 Gecko Village ...... B1

into a rubbish-bin-sized hole. It’s great for admission includes the use of the large on- the kids and each game (300B) comes with a site swimming pool. complimentary soft drink. It’s a par 66. Spas & Yoga Namuang Safari Park THEME PARK Competition for Samui’s fi ve-star accom- (Map p 539 ; %0 7742 4098) Located near Na modation is fi erce, which means that the Muang Falls, Namuang has safari options spas are of the highest calibre. For top-notch and packages galore. Adventure tours (from pampering, try the spa at Anantara Bo 900B) vary in length and can include el- Phut, or the Hideaway Spa at the Six Senses ephant trekking, monkey shows, 4WD rides Samui. The Spa Resort in Lamai is the is- and even a visit to a rubber plantation to land’s original health destination, and is still drain the trees (now that’s excitement). Pric- known for its eff ective ‘clean me out’ fasting es include hotel transfer. regime.

Samui Aquarium & Tiger Zoo THEME PARK Yoga Thailand YOGA & SPA (Map p539 ; %0 7742 4017; adult/child 750/450B; ( %0 7792 0090; www.yoga-thailand.com; Phang h9am-6pm) The Samui Aquarium & Tiger Ka; retreats from €680; aiW) Secreted away Zoo features the standard array aquariums along the southern shores, Yoga Thailand is and tigers, as well as a large aviary. It’s a ushering in a new era of therapeutic holi- pleasant diversion for the kids, though daying with its state-of-the-art facilities and some of the cages and tanks are noticeably dedicated team of trainers. Accommodation rundown. The tiger show is at 2.30pm and is located in a comfy apartment block up the the sea lion spectacle starts at 1.30pm. The street while yoga studios, wellness centres and a breezy cafe sit calmly along the shore. 543 Tamarind Retreat THAI MASSAGE vourites, but the following inventory is by no ( %0 7723 0571; www.tamarindretreat.com) Tucked means exhaustive. far away from the beach within a silent If you’re looking to splurge, there is defi - coconut-palm plantation, Tamarind’s small nitely no shortage of top-end resorts sport- collection of villas and massage studios is ing extravagant bungalows, charming spas, seamlessly incorporated into nature: some private infi nity pools, and fi rst-class dining. have granite boulders built into walls and Bo Phut, on the island’s northern coast, has fl oors, others off er private ponds or creative a charming collection of boutique lodging – outdoor baths. the perfect choice for midrange travellers. Backpack-toting tourists will have to look a Health Oasis Resort YOGA & SPA little harder, but budget digs do pop up once ( %0 7742 0124; www.healthoasisresort.com) If in a while along all of the island’s beaches. you’re lookin’ to get ‘cleansed’, whether it’s Private villa services have become quite your aura or your colon, then you’ve hap- popular in recent years. Rental companies pened upon the right place. New Age is all often advertise in the various tourist book- the rage at the Health Oasis. Guests can lets that circulate on the island. choose from a variety of healing packages This large section is organised as follows: KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI involving everything from meditation to we start on the popular east coast with Cha- GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI fasting. Bungalows are modern and receive weng and Lamai, then move anticlockwise plenty of sunshine. There’s also a vegetarian around the island covering the smaller restaurant on site, of course. beaches. Absolute Sanctuary YOGA & SPA CHAWENG ( %0 7760 1190; www.absoluteyogasamui.com) What was once a friendly yoga studio has o Jungle Club BUNGALOWS $$ blossomed into a gargantuan wellness com- (Map p540 ; %08 1894 2327; www.jungleclubsamui. plex featuring plenty of accommodation and com; bungalows 800-4500B; aiWs) The per- an exhaustive menu of detox and wellness ilous drive up the slithering dirt road is to- programs. tally worthwhile once you get a load of the incredible views from the top. This isolated C Courses mountain getaway is a huge hit among lo- KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS COURSES Samui Institute of Thai cals and tourists alike. There’s a relaxed Culinary Arts COOKING back-to-nature vibe – guests chill around the (SITCA; Map p540 ; %0 7741 3434; www.sitca.net; stunning horizon pool or tuck themselves Hat Chaweng) If you’re contemplating a Thai away for a catnap under the canopied roofs cooking course, SITCA is the place to do it. of an open-air săh·lah (often spelt sala; It has daily Thai-cooking classes and courses hall). Call ahead for a pick-up – you don’t in the aristocratic Thai art of carving fruits want to spend your precious jungle vacation and vegetables into intricate fl oral designs. in a body cast. Taxis from the main road cost Lunchtime classes begin at 11am, while din- 50B; it’s 100B from central Chaweng. ner starts at 4pm (both cost 1950B for a three-hour course with three or more dish- o Library RESORT $$$ es). Included is an excellent tutorial about (Map p540 ; %0 7742 2767; www.thelibrary.name; r procuring ingredients in your home country. from 13,300B; aiWs) This place is too cool Of course you get to eat your projects, and for school, which is ironic since it’s called even invite a friend along for the meal. Com- ‘The Library’. The entire resort is a sparkling plimentary DVDs with Thai cooking instruc- white mirage accented with black trimming tion are also available so you can practise at and slatted curtains. Besides the futuristic home. iMac computer in each page (rooms are called ‘pages’ here), our favourite feature is 4 Sleeping the large monochromatic wall art – it glows ‘Superior’, ‘standard’, ‘deluxe’, ‘standard de- brightly in the evening and you can adjust luxe’, ‘deluxe superior’, ‘superior standard’ – the colour depending on your mood. Life- what does it all mean? Trying to decode size statues are engaged in the act of read- Samui’s obnoxious hotel lingo is like trying ing, and if you too feel inclined to pick up a to decipher the ancient Maya language. The book, the on-site library houses an impres- island’s array of sleeping options is over- sive assortment of colourful art and design whelming – we’ve compiled a list of our fa- books. The large rectangular pool is not to 544 be missed – it’s tiled in piercing shades of is memorable, Pandora looks like it just fell red, making the term ‘bloodbath’ suddenly out of a comic book – maybe Tintin and the seem appealing. Mystery of Surprisingly Cheap Accommo- dation in Chaweng? Rooms are outfi tted Tango Beach Resort RESORT $$ with cheerful pastels, wooden moulding, (Map p540 ; %0 7742 2470; www.tangobeachsamui. and the occasional stone feature. com; r 1600-4600B; aiWs) A midrange all- star, Tango features a string of bungalows Kirikayan Boutique Resort RESORT $$$ arranged along a teak boardwalk that mean- ( %0 7733 2299; www.kirikayan.com; r from 5295B; ders away from the beach. aiWs) Simple whites, lacquered teak and blazing red accents set the colour scheme at Centara Grand RESORT $$$ this hip address along Chaweng’s southern (Map p540 ; %0 7723 0500; www.centralhotels sands. Wander past thick palm trunks and resorts.com; r 8900-19,500B; aiWs) Centara sky-scraping foliage to fi nd the relaxing pool is a massive, manicured compound in the deck at the back. heart of Chaweng, but the palm-fi lled prop- erty is so large that you can safely escape Ark Bar RESORT $$ the streetside bustle. Rooms are found in % KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI (Map p540; 0 7742 2047; www.ark-bar.com; a hotel-like building that is conspicuously bungalows 1500B; aWs) You’ll fi nd two of Western in theme and decor. Grown-ups can every creature at Ark Bar – hardcore par- escape to the spa, or one of the four restau- tiers, chilled out hippies, teenagers, forty- rants, and leave the children at the labyrinth somethings, even Canadians. Lately, the per- of swimming pools under the watchful eye ennially popular resort has started to shift of an in-house babysitter. gears – higher-end digs is now the name of the game. Baan Chaweng Beach Resort RESORT $$$ (Map p540 ; %0 7742 2403; www.baanchaweng Chaweng Garden Beach RESORT $$ beachresort.com; bungalows 3500-7000B; ai (Map p540 ; %0 7796 0394; www.chawenggarden. Ws) A pleasant option for those who want com; r from 1850-8500B; aiWs) A popular top-end luxury without the hefty bill, Baan ‘fl ashpacker’ choice, this campus of accom- Chaweng is one of the new kids on the modation has a large variety of room types

GULF ISLANDS block and is keeping the prices relatively serviced by an extra-smiley staff . low. The immaculate rooms are painted in various shades of peach and pear, with Nora Chaweng HOTEL $$ teak furnishings that feel both modern and (Map p540 ; %0 7791 3666; www.norachawengho traditional. tel.com; r from 2100B; aiWs) Nora Chaweng is not on the beach, but this newer addition Muang Kulay Pan Hotel RESORT $$$ to the Chaweng bustle has swankily de- (Map p540 ; %0 7723 0849-51; www.kulaypan.com; signed rooms, an inviting on-site pool and a r 4200-15,000B; aiWs) No, that’s not a rip relaxing spa studio. in the wallpaper – it’s all part of the design concept. The architect cites a fusion be- Loft Samui HOSTEL $ tween Zen and Thai concepts, but we think (Map p540 ; %0 7741 3420; www.theloftsmaui.com; the decor is completely random. The seaside r from 590B; aiW) A newer budget opera- grounds have been purposefully neglected tion in Chaweng, the Loft is giving has-beens to lend an additional sense of chaos to this such as the Wave a run for their money with unique resort. cheap digs furnished by a couple of quirky details – adobe styling and savvy built-ins. Baan Haad Ngam RESORT $$$ It seems to be quite popular with travelling (Map p540 ; %0 7723 1500; www.baanhaadngam. Israelis. com; bungalows 6400-14,000B; aiWs) Vi- brant Baan Haad Ngam shuns the usual Akwa GUEST HOUSE $ teak and tan – every exterior is painted an (Map p540 ; %08 4660 0551; www.akwaguest interesting shade of green – like radioactive house.com; r from 700B; aiW) A charming celery. It’s sassy, classy and a great choice if B&B-style sleeping spot, Akwa has a few you’ve got the dime. funky rooms decorated with bright colours. Expect teddy bears adorning each bed, Pandora Boutique Hotel RESORT $$ quirky bookshelves stocked with DVDs and (Map p540 ; %0 7741 3801; www.pandora-samui. cartoon paintings all over. com; r 2700-4900B; aWs) As adorable as it 545 Queen Boutique Resort HOTEL $ this sprawling homage to over-the-top lux- (Map p540 ; %0 7741 3148; queensamui@yahoo. ury sports dozens of villas hoisted above com; r from 800-1200B; aiW) Despite the the foliage by spider-like stilts. Golf carts less-than-friendly staff , Queen off ers up zip around the grounds carrying jetsetters boutique sleeps for backpacker prices. Make between the myriad dining venues and the sure, however, that you get a room with tiled gargantuan spa (which sports a relaxing fl oors; the ones with scuff ed linoleum are far rainforest simulator, no less). less appealing. Samui Jasmine Resort RESORT $$$ Baan Samui RESORT $$ ( %0 7723 2446; 131/8 Moo 3; r & bungalows 3800- (Map p540 ; %0 7723 0965; www.see2sea.com; 5000B; aWs) Smack dab in the middle of r from 8240B; aiWs) In sharp contrast to Lamai beach, pleasant Samui Jasmine is a the austere Library next door, Baan Samui great deal. Go for the lower-priced rooms – is a campus of colourful beachside units. If most have excellent views of the ocean and the Flintstones had a holiday ranch house, the crystal-coloured lap pool. The design it would probably look something like this. scheme features plenty of varnished teak and also frilly accessories such as lavender Samui Hostel HOSTEL $ KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI pillows. GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI (Map p540 ; %08 9874 3737; dm 180B; ai) It doesn’t look like much from the front, but Spa Resort BUNGALOWS $$ the dorm rooms here are surprisingly ( %0 7723 0855; www.spasamui.com; Lamai North; and span. It’s a great place for solo travellers bungalows 800-2800B; aW) This health spa on a tight budget, although couples should has a bevy of therapeutic programs on off er, know that a private double room can be and no one seems to mind that the lodging scouted in Chaweng for around 400B. is cheap by Lamai’s standards. Programs in- clude colonics, massage, aqua detox, hypno- P Chaweng HOTEL $ therapy and yoga, just to name a few. The (Map p540 ; %0 7723 0684; r 400-600B, ste 1000B; bathrooms leave a bit to be desired, but who ai) This vine-covered cheapie doesn’t even needs a toilet when you’re doing a week- pretend to be close to the beach, but the long fast? Accommodation tends to book up pink-tiled rooms are spacious and squeaky quickly, so it’s best to reserve in advance (via KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS clean (minus a couple of bumps and bruises email). Nonguests are welcome to partake in SLEEPING on the wooden furniture). Pick a room fac- the programs. ing away from the street – it seems a tad too easy for someone to slip through an open iBed HOSTEL $ window and pilfer your stuff . ( %0 7745 8760; www.ibedsamui.com; dm/s 550/ 1100B) The sleekest hostel on the island (if LAMAI not all of Thailand), iBed has all the accou- o Rocky Resort RESORT $$$ trements of an Apple-sponsored space sta- ( %0 7741 8367; www.rockyresort.com; Hua Thanon; tion: personal TVs at each bed, smooth coats r 4890-17,000B; aWs) Our favourite spot in of paint, bleach-white linens, and plenty of Lamai (well, actually just south of Lamai), polished concrete. The wide verandahs, am- Rocky fi nds the right balance between an ple common space and mod kitchen foster a upmarket ambience and an unpretentious, sociable vibe during the busier months. sociable atmosphere. During the quieter Lamai Wanta RESORT $$ months the prices are a steal, since ocean ( %0 7742 4550, 0 7742 4218; www.lamaiwanta. views abound, and each room has been fur- com; r & bungalows 1954-4800B; aiWs) The nished with beautiful Thai-inspired furni- pool area feels a bit retro, with its swatch ture that seamlessly incorporates a modern book of beige- and blue-toned tiles, but in twist. The pool has been carved in between the back there are modern motel rooms and a collection of boulders mimicking the rocky bungalows that have fresh coats of white beach nearby (hence the name). paint. On the inside, rooms tread a fi ne line Banyan Tree Koh Samui RESORT $$$ between being minimal and sparse. Lamai ( %0 7791 5333; www.banyantree.com/en/samui/ Wanta is located towards the south end of overview; villas from 23,000B; aiWs) ’s Lamai – be on the look out for the resort's most prestigious address has set up a sis- small sign; it's located down a small beach- ter property along the secluded northern side soi. sands of Lamai. Occupying an entire bay, 546 Amarina Residence GUEST HOUSE $ massages) or dinner. All the extra-swanky (www.amarinaresidence.com; r 900-1200B) Al- split-level suites have day-bed rest areas, though the lobby is unusually dark com- gorgeous romantic decor, stunning views, pared to most tropical foyers, the rooms large terraces and creatively placed bath- upstairs are sun-drenched and sport tasteful tubs (you’ll see). Facilities include salt- and light-wood furnishing. freshwater pools, a tennis court, the req- uisite spa, a dessert shop and also several Beer’s House BUNGALOWS $ restaurants. ( %0 7723 0467; 161/4 Moo 4 Lamai North; bun- galows 200-550B) These tiny shade-covered Sala Samui RESORT $$$ bungalows are lined up right along the sand. ( %0 7724 5888; www.salasamui.com; bungalows Some huts have a communal toilet, but all US$360-1100; aiWs) Look out folks, these have plenty of room to sling a hammock and guys mean business – they quote their room laze the day away. rates in US dollars instead of baht. Is the hefty price tag worth it? Defi nitely. The de- New Hut BUNGALOWS $ sign scheme is undeniably exquisite – regal ( %0 7723 0437; [email protected]; Lamai whites and lacquered teaks are generously North; huts 200-500B) New Hut is a rare KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI lavished throughout, while subtle turquoise beachfront cheapie with tiny-but-charming accents draw on the colour of each villa’s pri- A-frame huts. vate plunge pool. NORTHERN BEACHES Imperial Boat House Hotel RESORT $$$ Ko Samui’s northern beaches have the larg- ( %0 7742 5041-52; www.imperialhotels.com; Hat est range of accommodation. Choeng Mon Choeng Mon; r 4000-5500B, boat ste 6000-6700B; has some of the most opulent resorts in the aWs) This sophisticated retreat has a world, while Mae Nam and Bang Po cling three-storey hotel and several free-standing to their backpacker roots despite the recent bungalows made from imported-teak rice construction of several fl ash pads. Bo Phut, barges whose bows have been transformed in the middle, is the shining star in Samui’s into stunning patios. Oxidised copper can- constellation of beaches. nons blast streams of water into the boat- shaped swimming pool. GULF ISLANDS Choeng Mon

o Six Senses Samui RESORT $$$ Ô Soleil BUNGALOWS $ ( %0 7724 5678; www.sixsenses.com/hideaway-samui ( %0 7742 5232; r & bungalows from 400B;a) One /index. php; bungalows from 18,000B; aiWs) of the cheaper beachfront properties on the This hidden bamboo paradise is worth the island, old Ô Soleil off ers a scatter of bun- once-in-a-lifetime splurge. Set along a rugged galows and semidetached rooms extending promontory, Six Senses strikes the perfect bal- inland from the sand. It’s a very casual aff air, ance between opulence and rustic charm, and so be sure to safely store your valuables. defi nes the term ‘barefoot elegance’. Most of Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak) the villas have stunning concrete plunge pools This area gets its moniker from the huge and off er magnifi cent views of the silent bay golden Buddha that acts as overlord from below. The regal, semi-outdoor bathrooms the small nearby quasi-island of Ko Fan. Its give the phrase ‘royal fl ush’ a whole new proximity to the airport means lower prices meaning. Beige golf buggies move guests be- at the resorts. tween their hidden cottages and the stunning amenities strewn around the property – in- Samui Mermaid RESORT $ cluding a world-class spa and two excellent ( %0 7742 7547; www.samui-mermaid.info; r 400- restaurants. 2500B; aiWs) Samui Mermaid is a great choice in the budget category because it Tongsai Bay RESORT $$$ feels like a full-fl edged resort. There are two % ( 0 7724 5480-5500; www.tongsaibay.co.th; ste large swimming pools, copious beach chairs, aWs For serious pam- 11,000-30,000B; ) two lively restaurants and every room has pering, head to this secluded luxury gem. cable TV. The landing strip at Samui’s air- Expansive and impeccably maintained, port is only a couple of kilometres away, so the hilly grounds make the cluster of bun- sometimes there’s noise, but free airport galows look more like a small village. Golf transfers sweeten the deal. carts whiz around the vast landscape trans- porting guests to various activities (such as 547 Shambala BUNGALOWS $ Zazen RESORT $$$ ( %0 7742 5330; www.samui-shambala.com; bun- (Map p542 ; %0 7742 5085; www.samuizazen.com; galows 600-1000B; aW) While surrounding r 6010-17,200B; aiWs) What was once a establishments answer the call of upmarket simple place has now transformed into the travellers, this laid-back, English-run place boutique-iest boutique resort on Samui – is a backpacking stalwart with a subtle hip- every inch of this charming getaway has py feel. There’s plenty of communal cush- been thoughtfully and creatively designed. ion seating, a great wooden sun-deck, and It’s ‘Asian minimalism meets modern Roco- the bungalows are bright and roomy. Staff co’ with a scarlet accent wall, terracotta god- doles out travel tips and smiles in equal desses, a dash of feng shui, and a generous measure. smattering of good taste. Guests relax pool- side on comfy beach chairs gently shaded Ocean 11 GUEST HOUSE $$ by canvas parasols. The walk-in prices are ( %0 7741 7118; www.o11s.com; bungalows 1900- scary, so it’s best to book in advance. 3200B; aW) A little slice of luxury at a very reasonable price, Ocean 11’s apartments are Lodge HOTEL $$ a steal (get it?!). Silly fi lm references aside, (Map p542 ; %0 7742 5337; www.apartmentsamui. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI this mellow spot with cottagey, Med-style com; r 1400-2500B; aWs) Another great GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI decor is a great midrange getaway along a choice in Bo Phut, the Lodge feels like a relatively quiet patch of sand. colonial hunting chalet with pale walls and dark wooden beams jutting across the ceil- Bo Phut ing. Every room has scores of wall hangings The beach isn’t breathtaking, but Bo Phut and a private balcony overlooking the beach. has the most dynamic lodging in all of The ‘pent-huts’ on the top fl oor are very spa- Samui. A string of vibrant boutique cottages cious. Reservations are a must – this place starts deep within the clutter of Fisher- always seems to be full. man’s Village and radiates outward along the sand. Ibis Bo Phut HOTEL $$ (Map p542 ; %0 7791 4800; www.ibishotel.com/ o Anantara RESORT $$$ thailand; r from 1600B; aiWs) The biggest (Map p542 ; %0 7742 8300; www.anantara.com; r resort on the island, the brand new Ibis still KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS SLEEPING 4000-18,000B; aiWs) Anantara’s stunning has that new car smell in its shiny, effi cient palanquin entrance satisfi es every fantasy rooms. Families will love the children’s bunk of a far-fl ung oriental kingdom. Low-slung beds and the grassy grounds perfect for a torches spurt plumes of unwavering fi re, and game of tag. If you’re looking for a resort the residual smoke creates a light fog around with traces of Thai character, this is not the the fanned palm fronds higher up. Clay and place for you. copper statues of grimacing jungle creatures B1 Villa Spa APARTMENTS $$$ abound on the property’s wild acreage, while (Map p542 ; %0 7742 7268; www.b1villa.com; ste guests savour wild teas in an open-air pa- 2800-7000B; aWs) There’s a refreshing goda, swim in the lagoon-like infi nity-edged burst of character at this inn-style option swimming pool, or indulge in a relaxing spa along the beach in Fisherman’s Village. Each treatment. The new wing of adjacent white- room displays a unique collection of wall washed villas brings the resort up to another art, and has been given a special moniker – level of opulence. the 2nd-storey spaces are named after the stars in Orion’s belt. Oh, and it’s B1 as in ‘B1 o L’Hacienda GUEST HOUSE $$ with yourself’, get it? (Map p542 ; %0 7724 5943; www.samui-hacienda. com; r 1400-3500B; aWs) Polished terracotta Khuntai GUEST HOUSE $ and rounded archways give the entrance a (Map p542 ; %0 7724 5118; r 400-850B; a) This Spanish mission motif. Similar decor perme- clunky orange guest house is as cheap as ates the eight adorable rooms, which sport decent rooms get on Samui. A block away loads of personal touches such as pebbled from the beach, on the outskirts of Fisher- bathroom walls and translucent bamboo man’s Village, Khuntai’s 2nd-fl oor rooms are lamps. There’s a charming surprise waiting drenched in afternoon sunshine and feature for you on the roof, and we’re pretty sure outdoor lounging spots. you’ll love it as much as we did. 548 Mae Nam & Bang Po of the cheapest huts around and they’re in W Retreat Koh Samui RESORT $$$ decent condition. ( %0 7791 5999; www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels; WEST COAST r from 23,000B; aiWs) A bejewelled ‘W’ welcomes guests as they drive up the curl- Largely the domain of Thai tourists, Samui’s ing road to the lobby, and upon arrival jaws west coast doesn’t have the most pictur- immediate drop whilst staring out over the esque beaches, but it’s a welcome escape glittering infi nity pools and endless horizon. from the east-side bustle. The trademark ‘W glam’ is palpable through- InterContinental Samui Baan out the resort, which does its darnedest to Taling Ngam Resort RESORT $$$ fuse an urban vibe with tropical serenity. ( %0 7742 9100; www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercon It’ll be a while before this new resort fi nds tinental; r from 6300B; aiWs) Unlike most its groove, so until then we recommend com- of Samui’s fi ve-star digs, Baan Taling Ngam ing by for the Sunday brunch (2500B) or a has been designed in a ‘classic Thai’ theme. sunset cocktail at Woo Bar. Luxuriously appointed guest accommoda- tion contains custom-made Thai-style fur- Napasai By Orient Express RESORT $$$

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI nishings and the service here is impeccable. ( %0 7742 9200; www.napasai.com; r from 9200B; As it’s not right on the beach, a shuttle serv- aiWs) Gorgeously manicured grounds welcome weary travellers as they glide past ice transports guests back and forth; airport grazing water buff alo and groundsmen don- and ferry transfers are also provided. ning cream-coloured pith helmets. A gener- Am Samui BUNGALOWS $$ ous smattering of villas dot the expansive ( %0 7723 5165; www.amsamuiresort.com; bunga- landscape – all sport traditional Thai-style lows from 1100B; aWs) Cast modesty aside, decorations, from the intricately carved spread your curtains wide, and welcome wooden ornamentation to streamers of lus- sunshine and sea views in through your cious local silks. fl oor-to-ceiling windows. Lounge-worthy porch furniture further contributes to the Maenam Resort BUNGALOWS $$ comfy, casual vibe established at the open- ( %0 7742 5116; www.maenamresort.com; bunga- air restaurant and pool. lows 1400-3000B; aiW) Palm-bark cottages GULF ISLANDS are set in several rows amid a private, jun- SOUTH COAST gle-like garden. They’re decked out in a mix The southern end of Ko Samui is spotted of wicker and wooden furnishings, and vary with rocky headlands and smaller sandy in price according to their distance from the coves. The following options are all well beach. Suites are a steal for families. worth the baht, in fact, these resorts repre- sent some of our favourite places to stay on Harry’s BUNGALOWS $$ ( %0 7742 5447; www.harrys-samui.com; bungalows the island. as Arriving at Harry’s feels 1200-3000B; ) Easy Time BUNGALOWS $$ like entering sacred temple grounds. Pol- ( %0 7792 0110; www.easytimesamui.com; Phang ished teak wood abounds in the lobby and Ka; r from 1950B; aiWs) Safely tucked away the classic pitched roofi ng reaches skyward. from the throngs of tourists, this little haven – The concrete bungalows, stashed in a ver- nestled inland around a serene swimming dant garden, do not retain the fl amboyant pool – is a great place to unwind. Duplex villa architectural theme out front, but they’re units and a chic dining space create an ele- cute and comfortable nonetheless. gant mood that is refreshingly unpretentious.

BUNGALOWS $$ Coco Palm Resort Elements RESORT $$$ ( %0 7742 5095; bungalows 1200B;as) The ( %0 7791 4678; www.elements-koh-samui.com; bungalows at Coco Palm have been crafted Phang Ka; r 5540-21,500B; aiWs) A refresh- with tonnes of rattan. A rectangular pool is ing twist on the modern boutique sleep, Ele- the centrepiece along the beach – and the ments occupies a lonely strand of palm-stud- price is right for a resort-like atmosphere. ded sand. Rooms are arranged in condo-like blocks, each one featuring an eye-pleasing Shangrilah BUNGALOWS $ ( %0 7742 5189; bungalows 300-2000B;a) A back- blend of Thai and West styling. Hidden vil- packer’s Shangri La indeed – these are some las dot the path down to the fi re-coloured restaurant and ocean-side lounge area. 549 5 Eating ing chimichanga). There are burgers, pizzas If you thought it was hard to pick a place and vegie options too, for those who don’t to sleep, the island has even more options want to go ‘south of the border’. when it comes to dining. From roasted crick- Page ASIAN FUSION $$$ ets to beluga caviar – Samui’s got it and is (Map p540 ; dishes 180-850B; hbreakfast, lunch & not afraid to fl aunt it. dinner) If you can’t aff ord to stay at the ultra- Infl uenced by the mainland, Samui is swanky Library, have a meal at its beachside peppered with kôw gaang (rice and curry) restaurant. The food is expensive (of course) shops, usually just a wooden shack display- but you’ll receive glances from the beach ing large metal pots of southern Thai-style bums on the beach as they try to fi gure out if curries. Folks pull up on their motorcycles, you’re a jetsetter or movie star. Lunch is a bit lift up the lids to survey the vibrantly col- more casual and aff ordable, but you’ll miss oured contents, and pick one for lunch. Kôw the designer lighting eff ects in the evening. gaang shops are easily found along the Ring Rd (Rte 4169) and sell out of the good stuff Prego ITALIAN $$$ by 1pm. Any build-up of local motorcycles is (Map p540 ; www.prego-samui.com; mains 200- 700B; hdinner) This smart ministry of culi- KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI usually a sign of a good meal in progress. GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI The upmarket choices are even more nu- nary style serves up fi ne Italian cuisine in merous and although Samui’s swank dining a barely-there dining room of cool marble scene is laden with Italian options, visitors and modern geometry. Reservations are ac- will have no problem fi nding fl avours from cepted for seatings at 7pm and 9pm. around the globe. Lured by high salaries and spectacular weather, world-class chefs regu- Dr Frogs STEAKHOUSE $$$ h larly make an appearance on the island. (off Map p540; mains 380-790B; lunch & dinner) Perched atop a rocky overlook, Dr Frogs CHAWENG combines incredible ocean vistas with deli- Dozens of the restaurants on the ‘strip’ serve cious international fl avours (namely Italian a mixed bag of local bites, international and Thai favourites). Delectable steaks and cuisine, and greasy fast food. For the best crab cakes, and friendly owners, put this ambience, get off the road and head to the spot near the top of our dining list. KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS beach, where many bungalow operators set EATING Betelnut@Buri Rasa ASIAN FUSION $$$ up tables on the sand and have glittery fairy (Map p540 ; mains 600-800B; hdinner) Fusion lights at night. can be confusing, and often disappointing, but Betelnut will set you straight. Chef Jef- o Samui Institute of Thai frey Lords claims an American upbringing Culinary Arts THAI $$$ and European culinary training, but most (SITCA; Map p540 ; %0 7741 3434; course 1950B; importantly he spent time in San Francisco, hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Go one better than where all good food is born. The menu is a savouring a traditional Thai meal: cook it pan-Pacifi c mix of curries and chowder, pa- yourself! paya and pancetta.

MARKET $ Laem Din Market Zico’s BRAZILIAN $$$ (Map p540 ; dishes from 30B; h4am-6pm, night (Map p540 ; menu 790B; hdinner) This palatial market 6pm-2am) A busy day market, Laem churrascaria puts the carne in Carnival. Din is packed with stalls that sell fresh Vegetarians beware – Zico’s is an all-you- fruits, vegetables and meats and stock local can-eat Brazilian meat-fest complete with Thai kitchens. Pick up a kilo of sweet green saucy dancers sporting peacock-like outfi ts. oranges or wander the stalls trying to spot the ingredients in last night’s curry. For din- Khaosan Restaurant & ner, come to the adjacent night market and Bakery INTERNATIONAL $ sample the tasty southern-style fried chick- (Map p540 ; dishes from 60B; hbreakfast, lunch & en and curries. dinner) From filet mignon to fl apjacks and everything in between, this chow house is Gringo’s Cantina MEXICAN $$ popular with those looking for a cheap nosh. (Map p540 ; dishes 140-280B; hdinner) Wash Hang around after your meal and catch down a Tex-Mex classic with a jug of san- a newly released movie on the big TV. It’s gria or a frozen margarita. We liked the everything you’d expect from a place called chimichangas (mostly because we like say- ‘Khaosan’. 550 Wave Samui INTERNATIONAL $ NORTHERN BEACHES (Map p540 ; dishes from 60B; hbreakfast, lunch Some of Samui’s fi nest establishments are & dinner) Everyone says that Samui is going located on the northern coast. Boho Bo Phut upmarket, but the most crowded restau- has several trendy eateries to match the rants at dinnertime are still the old-fash- string of yuppie boutique hotels. ioned budget spots, like this one. This jack- of-all trades (guest house-bar-restaurant) Choeng Mon & Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak) serves honest food at honest prices and fos- ters a travellers' ambience with an in-house o Dining On The Rocks ASIAN FUSION $$$ library and a popular happy hour (3pm to ( %0 7724 5678; reservations-samui@sixsenses. 7pm). com; Choeng Mon; menus from 2200B; hdinner) Samui’s ultimate dining experience takes LAMAI place on nine cantilevered verandahs of As Samui’s second-most populated beach, weathered teak and bamboo that yawn over Lamai has a surprisingly limited assortment the gulf. After sunset (and a glass of wine), of decent eateries when compared to Cha- guests feel like they’re dining on a wooden weng next door. The Tesco Lotus is a great barge set adrift on a starlit sea. Each dish KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI place to pick up snacks for a beachside pic- on the six-course prix-fi xe menu is the nic. Most visitors, however, dine wherever brainchild of the experimental cooks who they’re staying. regularly experiment with taste, texture and Rocky’s INTERNATIONAL $$$ temperature. If you’re celebrating a special (dishes 300-800B; hlunch & dinner) Easily the occasion, you’ll have to book well in advance top dining spot on Lamai, Rocky’s gour- if you want to sit at ‘table 99’ – the honey- met dishes are actually a bargain when you mooners’ table – positioned on a private ter- convert the baht into your native currency. race. Dining On The Rocks is located at the Try the signature beef tenderloin with blue isolated Six Senses Samui. cheese – it’s like sending your tastebuds on BBC INTERNATIONAL $$ a Parisian vacation. On Tuesday evenings, (Big Buddha Beach; dishes 60-200B; hbreakfast, diners enjoy a special Thai-themed evening lunch & dinner) No, this place has nothing to with a prepared menu of local delicacies. GULF ISLANDS do with Dr Who – BBC stands for Big Bud- Rocky’s is located at the like-named resort dha Café. It’s popular with the local expats, just south of Lamai. the international menu is large, and there Lamai Day Market MARKET $ are exquisite ocean views from the patio. (dishes from 30B; h6am-8pm) The Thai equiva- Antica Locanda ITALIAN $$ lent of a grocery store, Lamai’s market is a (www.anticasamui.com; dishes 170-280B; hdin- hive of activity, selling food necessities and ner) This friendly trattoria has pressed white takeaway food. Visit the covered area to pick tablecloths and caskets of Italian wine. Try up fresh fruit or to see vendors shredding the vongole alla marinara (clams in white coconuts to make coconut milk. Or hunt wine) and don’t forget to check out the suc- down the ice-cream seller for homemade culent specials of the day. coconut ice cream. It’s next door to a petrol station. If you’re waiting for a ferry in Bang Rak con- Hua Thanon Market MARKET $ sider stopping by one of the following: (dishes from 30B; h6am-6pm) Slip into the Catcantoo BBQ $$ rhythm of this village market slightly south (http://catcantoo.net; mains 90-350B; hbreak- of Lamai; a window into the food ways of fast, lunch & dinner) Enjoy bargain-basement . Vendors shoo away the breakfast (99B) in the morning, succulent fl ies from the freshly butchered meat and ribs at noon, or shooting some pool later housewives load bundles of vegetables into in the day. their baby-fi lled motorcycle baskets. Follow the market road to the row of food shops Pae Chuan Chim THAI $ delivering edible Muslim culture: chicken (mains 30-40B; hbreakfast & lunch) Without an biryani, fi ery curries or toasted rice with co- ounce of atmosphere to speak of, this open- conut, bean sprouts, lemongrass and dried air noodle-scooping haunt is popular with shrimp. locals who break for lunch to reenergise. Located next to the hyperbaric chamber. 551 Bo Phut traditional Ko Samui fare (think of it as is- Shack Bar & Grill STEAKHOUSE $$$ land roadkill, well, actually it's more like lo- (Map p542 ; www.theshackgrillsamui.com; mains cal sea-kill): recipes call for ingredients such 480-780B; hdinner) With hands down the best as raw sea urchin roe, baby octopus, sea wa- steaks on the island, the Shack imports the ter, coconut, and local turmeric. fi nest cuts of meat from Australia and slath- ers them in a rainbow of tasty sauces from WEST COAST red wine to blue cheese. Booth seating and The quiet west coast features some of the jazz over the speakers give the joint a dis- best seafood on Samui. Na Thon has a giant tinctly Western vibe, though you’ll fi nd all day market on Th Thawi Ratchaphakdi – types of diners come here to splurge. it’s worth stopping by to grab some snacks before your ferry ride. Zazen ASIAN FUSION $$$ (Map p542 ; dishes 550-850B, set menu from 1300B; o Five Islands SEAFOOD $$$ hlunch & dinner) The chef describes the food (www.the fi veislands.com; Taling Ngam; dishes 150- as ‘organic and orgasmic’, and the ambient 500B, tours 3000-6500B; hlunch & dinner) Five ‘yums’ from elated diners defi nitely confi rm Islands defi nes the term ‘destination dining’ KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI the latter. This romantic dining experience and off ers the most unique eating experi- GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI comes complete with ocean views, dim can- ence on the island. Before your meal, a tra- dle lighting and soft music. Reservations ditional longtail boat will take you out into recommended. the turquoise sea to visit the haunting Five Sister Islands where you’ll learn about the Starfish & Coffee THAI $$ ancient and little-known art of harvesting (Map p542 ; mains 130-180B; hbreakfast, lunch & bird nests to make bird’s-nest soup, a Chi- dinner) This streamer-clad eatery was prob- nese delicacy. This perilous task is rewarded ably named after the Prince song, since with large sums of cash – a kilo of nests is we couldn’t fi nd any starfi sh on the menu usually sold for 100,000B to restaurants in (there’s loads of coff ee though). Evenings (yup, that’s fi ve zeros). The lunch feature standard Thai fare and sunset views tour departs around 10am, and the dinner of rugged Ko Pha-Ngan. program leaves around 3pm. Customers are KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS Villa Bianca ITALIAN $$ also welcome to dine without going on the DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT (Map p542 ; dishes from 200B; hlunch & dinner) tour and vice versa. Another fantastic Italian spot on Samui, Vil- la Bianca is a sea of crisp white tablecloths About Art & Craft Café VEGETARIAN $$ and woven lounge chairs. Who knew wicker (Na Thon; dishes 80-180B; hbreakfast & lunch) could be so sexy? An artistic oasis in the midst of hurried Na Thon, this cafe serves an eclectic assortment Karma Sutra INTERNATIONAL $$ of healthy and wholesome food, gourmet (Map p542 ; mains 130-260B; hbreakfast, lunch coff ee and, as the name states, art and craft, & dinner) A haze of purples and pillows, made by the owner and her friends. Relaxed this charming chow spot in the heart of and friendly, this is also a gathering place for Bo Phut’s Fisherman’s Village serves up in- Samui’s dwindling population of bohemians ternational and Thai eats listed on colour- and artists. ful chalkboards. Karma Sutra doubles as a clothing boutique. 6 Drinking & Entertainment Samui’s biggest party spot is, without a Mae Nam & Bang Po doubt, noisy Chaweng. Lamai and Bo Phut Angela’s Bakery BAKERY, INTERNATIONAL $$ come in second and third respectively, while (Mae Nam; dishes 80-200B; hbreakfast & lunch) the rest of the island is generally quiet, as Duck through the screen of hanging plants the drinking is usually focused around self- into this beloved bakery, smelling of fresh contained resort bars. bread and hospitality. Angela’s sandwiches and cakes have kept many Western expats CHAWENG & LAMAI from wasting away in the land of rice. Making merry in Chaweng is a piece of cake. Most places are open until 2am and there are Bang Po Seafood SEAFOOD $$ a few places that go strong all night long. Soi h A meal at (Bang Po; dishes from 100B; dinner) Green Mango has loads of girly bars. Soi Co- Bang Po Seafood is a test for the tastebuds. libri and Soi Reggae Pub are raucous as well. It’s one of the only restaurants that serves 552

POP’S CULTURE: LIFE AS A LADYBOY

Pop, age 45, is what Thais call a gà·teu·i, usually referred to as a ‘ladyboy’ in English. Thai- land’s transgender population is the subject of many debates and conversations, especially among tourists. Although tolerance is widespread in Buddhist Thailand, concealed homo- phobia prevails – for gà·teu·i, this can be a challenging life, with the entertainment and sex industries the only lucrative career avenues open. We spent the day with Pop and got the skinny on what life was really like as a member of Thailand’s oft-talked-about ‘third sex’. LET’S START WITH A QUESTION THAT MANY TOURISTS IN THAILAND WOULD LIKE TO ASK: WHY DOES THERE SEEM TO BE SO MANY GA·TEU·I IN THAILAND? Well, that’s like asking me why I am a ladyboy! I have no idea. I didn’t ask to have these feelings. I think the more important thing to notice is why there are so many ladyboys in the cabaret or sex industry. First, however, let me start by staying that the word gà·teu·i is the informal way of saying ‘person with two sexes’; the term pôo yĭng kâhm pêt is generally more polite. Also, gà·teu·i is strictly reserved for people who still have male body parts but dress as female, so I am not technically gà·teu·i anymore. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Most tourists think that there are tonnes of ladyboys in Thailand because they are in places that many tourists visit. Yes, some ladyboys want to be cabaret dancers, just like some women want to be cabaret dancers, but most of them don’t. These types of jobs are the only ones available to ladyboys, and the pay is lousy. Life is not as ‘Hollywood’ for a ladyboy as it may seem on stage. Most ladyboys don’t have the chance to have a job that is respected by the community. We are not allowed to become doctors or psychologists and most corporations do not allow ladyboy employees because they don’t want gà·teu·i to be associated with their company’s image. Since many of us cannot have proper jobs, many ladyboys drop out of school at a young age , and lately this educational gap in the culture has become huge. Ladyboys work in the sex industry because they aren’t given the opportunity to make a lot of money doing something else. I feel like a second-class citizen; we are not allowed to use male or female bathrooms! I used to have to climb 14 fl ights of stairs to use the special ladyboys’ bathroom at my old job! Also, Thai law states that my ID GULF ISLANDS cards and passport must always have an ‘M’ for male because the defi nition of a female in Thailand is someone who can bear children. It’s hard for me to leave the country because my passport says ‘male’ but I look like a female. They will never let me through security because it looks like a fraudulent passport. WHEN DID YOU FIRST REALISE THAT YOU MIGHT BE A TRANSGENDER PERSON? I realised that I was diff erent when I was about six years old. I always wanted to dress up like my sister and would get upset when my parents dressed me in boy’s clothing. It felt wrong being in boy’s clothes. I felt good in my sister’s outfi ts. HOW DOES ONE TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A LADYBOY AND A WOMAN ON THE STREET? Sometimes it’s really hard to tell…sometimes a ladyboy can be more beautiful than a wom- an! There is no set way to fi gure it out, unless you ask them for their ID card. These days, doctors are really starting to perfect the operations, and the operations are expensive – mine was 150,000B! I had the ‘snip’, then I had breast implants, my Adam’s apple was shaved off , and I also had a nose job (I didn’t like my old nose anyways). Other operations available include silicone implants in the hips, jaw narrowing, cheekbone shaving and chin sculpting – to make it rounder. But before anyone can have an operation, you have to have a psych evaluation. The operation was extremely painful. I spent seven days in the hospital

Beach Republic LOUNGE pool, comfy lounge chairs and an endless (www.beachrepublic.com; 176/34 Moo 4 Hat Lamai) cocktail list. Recognised by its yawning thatch-patched awnings, Beach Republic would be the per- Q-Bar LOUNGE fect spot to shoot one of those MTV Spring (Map p540 ; www.qbarsamui.com; Hat Chaweng) Break episodes. There’s an inviting wading Overlooking Chaweng Lake, Q-Bar is a little piece of Bangkok nightlife planted among the 553

and it took me about two months to fully recover. Younger patients tend to heal faster – I was about 40 years old when I had the operation. WHY DIDN’T YOU HAVE THE OPERATION EARLIER? AND HOW HAVE YOUR HANDLED THE TRANSITION? I didn’t ‘change’ earlier because I didn’t want to give up my job, and I knew that after the operation I would be forced to quit. I was working as a software instructor at a university, and university teachers are not allowed to be transgender. I also waited until my father passed away so that it would be easier on my family when I made the transition. Well, contrary to what some tourists believe, no family particularly wants a transgender child, even a family with only boys. Some of my close friends no longer speak to their fami- lies. My mother was always very comforting. A month before my operation she told me ‘you will always be my child, but never lie to anyone about who you are – accept who you are’. I have two adopted sons who are now quite grown-up, and after I made the change, they bought me presents on Mother’s Day instead of Father’s Day – I thought that was very sweet. My father, on the other hand, was never very supportive. When he found I was KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI sleeping with men, he…well…let’s put it this way, he practised his moo·ay thai [also spelt muay thai] boxing on me. HOW DID YOU FEEL WHEN YOU WOKE UP AFTER THE OPERATION? HOW HAS LIFE BEEN SINCE THE OPERATION? I woke up with a big smile. Life is great. I am happy that I can be on the outside what I am on the inside – I can stop feeling sad every time I look down! Finding a job after my surgery was hard. I wrote on my CV ‘transgender post-op’ so that there would be no surprises in the interview, but I never heard back from any companies. Oh, actually one company asked me to come for an interview, but they spent the meeting asking me inappropriate questions about my personal life. It was very disheartening. I fi nally found a queer-friendly company, where I am employed as a hospitality software implementer, meaning that I go around to hotels around Thailand and teach front-desk staff how to use the hotel’s compu- ter system. I adore my job. KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS Now that my surgery is far behind me, I have to take female hormones regularly until DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT I die. I take a pill twice per week, but some male-to-females take one injection per month (I hate needles). Some people have a bad reaction to the medication at fi rst. I have had friends that got a lot of pimples and got really fat. Sometimes it takes a while before you fi nd the right amount of hormones. Besides the hormones, there is a certain amount of… maintenance…that needs to take place in order to keep my new parts working. Put it this way, when you get your ears pierced, if you don’t regularly wear earrings…well… Anyways, my aunt, who moved to the United States, asked me if I wanted to move too, but I am happy in Thailand. Even though transgender individuals don’t have a lot of rights, I’m not convinced that it is that much better anywhere else. AND FINALLY, WHAT DO YOU FEEL IS THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION ABOUT GÀ·TEU·I IN THAILAND? This is an easy question. The biggest misconception is that we are all promiscuous whores and liars. Like any human being, we are just looking for love. It is true that many ladyboys do try to trick the people around them, but this is because they are afraid of being rejected for who they really are. Also, many of them lie because they desperately want to be real women, but they will never be real women. I know that – that’s why I always show the real me – I am comfortable with who I am. I wish everyone else would be too. As told to Brandon Presser. coconut trees. The upstairs lounge opens just spin the crowd into a techno amoeba. A taxi before sunset, treating cocktail connoisseurs there will cost between 200B and 300B. to various highbrow tipples and a drinkable view of southern Chaweng – mountains, sea Ark Bar BAR and sky. After 10pm, the night-crawlers de- (Map p540 ; www.ark-bar.com; Hat Chaweng) The scend upon the downstairs club where DJs ‘it’ destination for a Wednesday-night romp on Samui. Drinks are dispensed from the 554 multicoloured bar draped in paper lanterns, dinary nights. But the Mint is able to lure and guests lounge on pyramidal pillows a few DJ heavyweights for a Samui spin on strewn down the beach. The party usually extraordinary nights. Watch the entertain- starts around 4pm. ment listings for special events.

Christy’s Cabaret CABARET NORTHERN & WEST COAST BEACHES (Map p540 ; Hat Chaweng) This fl ashy joint of- Woo Bar LOUNGE fers free gà·teu·i (ladyboys, also spelt kàtho- (Mae Nam) The W Retreat’s signature lobby ey) cabaret every night at 11pm and attracts bar gives the word ‘swish’ a whole new a mixed clientele of both sexes. Other lady- meaning with cushion-clad pods of seating boys loiter out front and try to drag custom- plunked in the middle of an expansive infi n- ers in, so to speak. ity pool that stretches out over the infi nite horizon. This is, without a doubt, the best Good Karma BAR place on Samui for a sunset cocktail. (Map p540 ; Hat Chaweng) Open all day, this snazzy lounge lures the hip ‘hi-so’ (Thai high Nikki Beach LOUNGE society) crowd with canopied daybeds and a (www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui; Lipa Noi) The hidden pond. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI acclaimed luxury brand has brought its international savoir faire to the secluded Bar Solo BAR west coast of Ko Samui. Expect everything (Map p540 ; Hat Chaweng) A sign of things to you would from a chic address in St Barts come, Bar Solo has future-fi tted Chaweng’s or St Tropez: haute cuisine, chic decor and outdoor beer halls into an urban setting gaggles of jetsetters. Themed brunch and with sleek cubist decor and a cocktail list dinner specials keep the masses coming that doesn’t scream holiday hayseed. The throughout the week, and sleek bungalow evening drink specials lure in the front- accommodation is also on off er. loaders preparing for a late, late night at the dance clubs on Soi Solo and Soi Green Pier LOUNGE Mango. (Map p542 ; Bo Phut) This sleek black box sticks out among Bo Phut’s narrow Chinese tene- Tropical Murphy’s IRISH BAR ments. It’s the hippest address in Fisher- GULF ISLANDS (Map p540 ; Hat Chaweng) A popular fa·ràng man’s Village, sporting multilevel terraces, (foreigner) joint, Tropical Murphy’s dishes a lively bar, and plenty of wide furniture out steak-and-kidney pie, fi sh and chips, to lounge around on and watch the rickety lamb chops and Irish stew (mains 50B to fi shing vessels pull into the harbour. 300B). Come night-time, the live music kicks on and this place turns into the most popu- Gecko Village CLUB lar Irish bar on Samui (yes, there are a few). (Map p542 ; Bo Phut) For electronica fans, Gecko Village is the original maven of beats. Green Mango BAR It’s a beachfront bar and resort that has used (Map p540 ; Hat Chaweng) This place is so its London connections to lure international popular it has an entire soi named after it. DJs to Samui paradise. The New Year’s Eve Samui’s favourite power drinking house is parties and Sunday sessions are now legen- very big, very loud and very faràng. Green dary thanks to the big names that grace the Mango has blazing lights, expensive drinks turntables. and masses of sweaty bodies swaying to dance music. Billabong Surf Club BAR (Map p542 ; Bo Phut) Billabong’s all about Aus- Reggae Pub BAR sie Rules football – it’s playing on the TV (Map p540 ; Hat Chaweng) This fortress of fun and the walls are smothered with memo- sports an open-air dance fl oor with music rabilia from Down Undah. There are great spun by foreign DJs. It’s a towering two- views of Ko Pha-Ngan and hearty portions storey aff air with long bars, pool tables and of ribs and chops to go with your draught a live-music stage. The whole place doubles beer. as a shrine to Bob Marley.

Mint BAR 8 Information (Map p540 ; Hat Chaweng) The scene on Green Dangers & Annoyances Mango Soi is too entertaining to keep the As on Phuket, the rate of road accident fatalities crowds corralled in this stylish club on or- on Samui is quite high. This is mainly due to the 555 large number of tourists who rent motorcycles funding is based on the number of Samui’s legal only to fi nd out that the winding roads, sudden residents (which doesn’t take into account the tropical rains and frenzied traffi c can be lethal. If many illegal Burmese workers). you decide to rent a motorcycle, protect yourself Bandon International Hospital (Map p542 ; by wearing a helmet, and ask for one that has a %0 7742 5840, emergency 0 7742 5748) plastic visor. Even if you escape unscathed from a Bangkok Samui Hospital (Map p 540 ; %0 riding experience, we’ve heard reports that some 7742 9500, emergency 0 7742 9555) Your best shops will claim that you damaged your rental and bet for just about any medical problem. will try to extort you for some serious cash. Hyperbaric Chamber (Map p539 ; %0 7742 Beach vendors are registered with the govern- 7427; Big Buddha Beach) The island’s dive ment and should all be wearing a numbered medicine specialists. jacket. No peddler should cause an incessant Samui International Hospital (Map p 540 ; disturbance – seek assistance if this occurs. %0 7742 2272; www.sih.co.th; Hat Chaweng) Emergency Emergency ambulance service is available 24 hours and credit cards are accepted. Near the Tourist police (Map p539 ; %0 7742 1281, Amari Resort in Chaweng. emergency 1155) Based at the south of Na Thon. Money KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Immigration Offi ces & Visas Changing money isn’t a problem on the east and north coasts, and in Na Thon. Multiple banks and Located about 2km south of Na Thon is Ko foreign-exchange booths off er daily services and Samui’s Immigration Office (Map p539 ; %0 there’s an ATM every couple of hundred metres. 7742 1069; h8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon- You should not have to pay credit card fees as Fri). Officials here tend to issue the minimum you do on neighbouring Ko Tao. rather than maximum visa extensions. During our visits here we’ve watched dozens of tourists Post wait through exhausting lines only to get curtly In several parts of the island there are privately denied an extension for no particular reason. run post-offi ce branches charging a small com- On a particularly bad day expect extensions to mission. You can almost always leave your take the entire afternoon. See p 766 for more stamped mail with your accommodation. details on visas. Main post office (Map p539 ; Na Thon) Near Internet Access the TAT office; not always reliable. KO SAMUI GULFKO ISLANDS 8 There are countless places all over the island for Tourist information internet access, even at the less popular beach- Essential (www.essential-samui) A pocket- es. Prices range from 1B to 2B per minute. Keep sized pamphlet focused on promoting Samui’s an eye out for restaurants that off er complimen- diverse activities. tary wi-fi service. Most accommodation off ers a wi-fi connection; ironically you’ll pay extra for it Samui Guide (www.samuiguide.com) This at high-end hotels. guide looks more like a magazine and features mostly restaurants and attractions. Media & Maps Samui Navigator (www.samuinavigaot.com) The Siam Map Company puts out quarterly This pamphlet is also worth a look. booklets including a Spa Guide, Dining Guide, Siam Map Company (www.siammap.com) and an annual directory, which lists thousands Puts out quarterly booklets including guides to of companies and hotels on the island. Its Siam spas and dining spots, and an annual directory, Map Company Samui Guide Map is fantastic, which lists thousands of companies and hotels free, and easily found throughout the island. on the island. Its Siam Map Company Samui Also worth a look is the Samui Navigator pam- Guide Map is fantastic, free and easily found phlet. Essential (www.essential-samui) is a throughout the island. pocket-sized pamphlet focused on promoting TAT office (Map p539 ; %0 7742 0504; Na Samui’s diverse activities. Samui Guide looks Thon; h8.30am-4.30pm) At the northern end more like a magazine and features mostly res- of Na Thon; this office is friendly, helpful and taurants and attractions. has handy brochures and maps – although travel agents throughout the island can provide Medical Services similar information. Ko Samui has four private hospitals, all near Chaweng’s Tesco-Lotus supermarket on the Getting There & Away east coast (where most of the tourists tend to 8 gather). The government hospital in Na Thon has Air seen signifi cant improvements in the last couple Samui’s airport is located in the northeast of of years but the service is still a bit grim because the island near Big Buddha Beach. Bangkok 556 Airways (www.bangkokair.com) operates fl ights 8 Getting Around roughly every 30 minutes between Samui and Bangkok’s (50 minutes). Motorbikes You can rent motorcycles (and Bangkok Air also fl ies direct from Samui to bicycles) from almost every resort on the island. Phuket, , , and The going rate is 200B per day, but for longer Hong Kong. Firefl y (www.fi refl yz.com.my) oper- periods try to negotiate a better rate. ates direct fl ights from Samui to Kuala Lumpur’s Sŏrng·tăa·ou Drivers of sŏrng·tăa·ou love to try Subang airport. to overcharge you, so it’s always best to ask a There is a Offi ce (Map third party for current rates, as they can change with the season. These vehicles run regularly p540 ; %0 7742 0512-9) in Chaweng and another during daylight hours. It’s about 50B to travel at the airport (%0 7742 5011). The fi rst (at 6am) and last (10pm) fl ights of the day are always the between beaches, and no more than 100B to cheapest. travel halfway across the island. Figure about 20B for a fi ve-minute ride on a motorcycle taxi. During the high season, make your fl ight res- ervations far in advance as seats often sell out. Taxis On Samui service is quite chaotic due to If the Samui fl ights are full, try fl ying into Surat the plethora of cabs. In the past taxi fares were Thani from Bangkok and taking a short ferry unwieldy; these days prices are more standard- ride to Samui instead. Flights to Surat Thani ised across the islands (though fares are still KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI are generally cheaper than a direct fl ight to the ridiculously infl ated compared to Bangkok). island, although they are much more of a Taxis typically charge around 500B for an air- hassle. port transfer. Some Chaweng travel agencies can arrange minibus taxis for less. Boat To reach Samui, the four main piers on the mainland are Ao Ban Don, Tha Thong, Don Sak Ko Pha-Ngan เกาะพงนั and Khanom – Tha Thong (in central Surat) and POP 11,000 Don Sak being the most common. On Samui, the In the family of southern Gulf islands, Ko three oft-used ports are Na Thon, Mae Nam and Pha-Ngan sits in the crystal sea between Ko Big Buddha. Expect complimentary taxi trans- Samui, its business-savvy older brother, and fers with high-speed ferry services. little Ko Tao, the spunky younger brother There are frequent boat departures between full of dive-centric energy. Ko Pha-Ngan is Samui and Surat Thani. The hourly Seatran ferry a chilled out middle child who is a beach GULF ISLANDS is a common option. Ferries take one to fi ve bum with tattered dreadlocks, a tattoo of a hours, depending on the boat. A couple of these departures can connect with the train station Chinese serenity symbol, and a penchant for in Phun Phin (for a nominal extra fee). The slow white nights and bikini-clad pool parties. night boat to Samui leaves from central Surat The scenic cape of Hat Rin has long been Thani each night at 11pm, reaching Na Thon the darling destination of this laid-back around 5am. It returns from Na Thon at 9pm, paradise. Sunrise Beach started hosting the arriving at around 3am. Watch your bags on this world-famous Full Moon parties long before boat. Alex Garland’s The Beach inspired many to There are almost a dozen daily departures strap on a rucksack. Today, thousands of between Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan. These leave visitors still fl ock to the island's sands for an from the Na Thon, Mae Nam or Big Buddha pier epic trance-a-thon fuelled by adrenaline and and take from 20 minutes to one hour. The boats a couple of other substances… departing from Big Buddha service Hat Rin, and But like any textbook teenager, this angst- the other boats alight at . From the ridden island can’t decide what it wants same piers, there are also around six daily de- to be when it grows up. Should the party partures between Samui and Ko Tao. These take 1¼ to 2½ hours. personality persist or will the stunning and secluded northern beaches fi nally come out Bus & Train from under Hat Rin’s shadow? A bus-ferry combo is more convenient than While Pha-Ngan’s slacker vibe and repu- a train-ferry package for getting to Ko Samui tation will no doubt dominate for years to because you don’t have to switch transporta- come, the island is secretly starting to creep tion in Phun Phin. However, the trains are much upmarket. Every year, tired old shacks are more comfortable and spacious – especially at being replaced by crisp modern abodes. In night. If you prefer the train, you can get off at Hat Rin, you will be hard-pressed to fi nd a Chumphon and catch the Lomprayah catamaran room on Sunrise Beach for less than 1000B. service the rest of the way. Soon, the phrase ‘private infi nity pool’ and ‘personal butler’ will fi nd a permanent place 557

0 4 km Ko Pha-Ngan 0 2 miles

To Sail Rock (14km) Ao Hat Laem G U L F O F Thong Lang Hat Thong Hat Kung Yai Khom Ko Ma Lang Ao T H A I L A N D Ao Mae Hat Ban Mae Chalok Hat Lam Hat Khuat Ao Hat Salad Nam Tok Khao Ban Fai Hat Thong Nai Pan Noi Hat Salad Wang Sai Kin Non Mai Ban (440m) Chalok Lam Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi Hat Yao Nam Tok Ban Wang Khao Ra Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai (625m) Than Ta Khian Prawet Hat Thong Hat Hat Son Ban Nai Pan Yai Chaophao Thong Nai Pan Ko Kong Laem Son Khao Ban Si Thanu Ta Luang Sri (476m) (378m) Thanu (498m) Ban Ban Hin Kong Ao Thong Reng Ban Thong Ao Hin Nang Kong Ban Wok Madeua Wan Nam Tok KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Than Sadet Ban Nam GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Tum Tok To Nam Tok Phaeng Ko Tao Ao Wok Tum (58km) Wat Phu Khao Noi Nam Tok Ko Pha-Ngan Than Prapet Hospital

Wat (525m) Ao Nai Wok Khao Tham Hat Yao Thong Ban Nok Ko Tae Nai Sala Pier Wat Pho Ao Bang Laem Ko Tae Nok Charu Ban Tai Klang Ao Bang Ban Khai Tai Hat Thian Ao Ban Pang Bon Khai Hat Yuan Hin Lor Ao Hin Lor To Na Thon Hat Rin Nok KO PHA-NGAN GULFKO ISLANDS SIGHTS (Ko Samui, 34km); Hat Rin Nai Surat Thani (110km) Laem To Bang Rak (15km); Hat Rin Bo Phut (Ko Samui, 15km) in the island’s lexicon, replacing ‘pass the Rama IX. King Rama V enjoyed this hidden dutch’ and ‘another whiskey bucket please’. spot so much that he returned over a dozen But don’t fret just yet – the vast inland jun- times between 1888 and 1909. The river wa- gle continues to feel undiscovered, and there ters of Khlong Than Sadet are now consid- are still plenty of secluded bays in which you ered sacred and used in royal ceremonies. can string up a hammock and watch the tide Also near the eastern coast, Than Prawet roll in. is a series of chutes that snake inland for approximately 2km. 1 Sights Nam Tok Phaeng WATERFALL For those who tire of beach-bumming, this In the centre of the island, Nam Tok large jungle island has many natural fea- Phaeng is protected by a national park; tures to explore including mountains, wa- this waterfall is a pleasant reward after a terfalls and, most importantly, some of the short, but rough, hike. Continue the adven- most spectacular beaches in all of Thailand. ture and head up to Khao Ra, the highest Beaches & Waterfalls mountain on the island at 625m. Those There are many waterfalls throughout the with eagle-eyes will spot wild crocodiles, island’s interior, four of which gush through- monkeys, snakes, deer and boar along the out the year. way, and the viewpoint from the top is spectacular – on a clear day you can see Nam Tok Than Sadet WATERFALL Ko Tao. Although the trek isn’t arduous, These falls feature boulders carved with it is very easy to lose one’s way, and we the royal insignia of Rama V, Rama VII and highly recommend hiring an escort in Ban 558

THE TEN COMMANDMENTS OF FULL MOON FUN

No one knows exactly when or how these crazy parties got started – many believe it began in 1987 or 1988 as someone’s ‘going away party’, but none of that is relevant now. Today, thousands of bodies converge monthly on the kerosene-soaked sands of Sunrise Beach for an epic trance-a-thon. Crowds can reach an outrageous 40,000 partiers dur- ing high season, while the low season still sees a respectable 5000 pilgrims. If you can’t make your trip coincide with a full moon but still want to cover yourself in fl uorescent paint, fear not – enterprising locals have organised a slew of other reasons to get sloshed. There are Black Moon Parties (at Ban Khai), Half Moon Parties (at Ban Tai) and Moon-set Parties (at Hat Chaophao) just to name a few. Some critics claim that the party is starting to lose its carefree fl avour, especially since the island’s government is trying to charge a 100B entrance fee to partygoers. Despite the disheartening schemes hatched by money-hungry locals, the night of the Full Moon is still the ultimate partying experience, so long as one follows the unoffi cial Ten Com- mandments of Full Moon fun:

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI » Thou shalt arrive in Hat Rin at least three days early to nail down accommodation during the pre-Full Moon rush of backpackers (see p561 ). » Thou shalt double-check the party dates as sometimes they coincide with Buddhist holidays and are rescheduled. » Thou shalt secure all valuables, especially when staying in budget bungalows. » Thou shalt savour some delicious fried fare in Chicken Corner before the revelry begins. » Thou shalt wear protective shoes during the sandy celebration, unless thou want a tetanus shot. » Thou shalt cover thyself with swirling patterns of neon body paint. » Thou shalt visit Magic Mountain or the Rock for killer views of the heathens below. » Thou shalt not sample the drug buffet, nor shalt thou swim in the ocean under the GULF ISLANDS influence of alcohol. » Thou shalt stay in a group of two or more people, especially if thou art a woman, and especially when returning home at the end of the evening. » Thou shalt party until the sun comes up and have a great time.

Madeua Wan (near the falls). The local Wát guides have crude signs posted in front of Remember to change out of your beach their homes, and, if they’re around, they’ll clothes when visiting one of the 20 wát on take you up to the top for 500B. Most of Ko Pha-Ngan. Most temples are open during them only speak Thai. daylight hours. The oldest temple on the island is Wat Hat Khuat BEACH Phu Khao Noi, near the hospital in Thong Also called Bottle Beach, Hat Khuat is a Sala. While the site is open to visitors classic fave. Visitors fl ock to this shore for throughout the day, the monks are only a relaxing day of swimming and snorkel- around in the morning. Wat Pho, near ling – some opt to stay the night at one of Ban Tai, has a herbal sauna (admission the several bungalow operations along the 50B; %3-6pm) accented with natural lemon- beach. For additional seclusion, try the iso- grass. The Chinese Temple is believed to lated beaches on the east coast, which in- give visitors good luck. It was constructed clude Than Sadet, Hat Yuan, Hat Thian about 20 years ago after a visiting woman and the teeny Ao Thong Reng. For addi- had a vision of the Chinese Buddha, who tional enchanting beaches, consider doing a instructed her to build a fi re-light for the day trip to the stunning Ang Thong Marine island. Wat Khao Tham, also near Ban Tai, National Park (p586 ). sits high on a hill and has resident female monks. At the temple there is a bulletin 559 board detailing a meditation retreat taught Lotus Diving DIVING by an American-Australian couple. For ad- ( %0 7737 4142; www.lotusdiving.net) This dive ditional information, write in advance to centre has top-notch instructors, and owns Wat Khao Tham, PO Box 8, Ko Pha-Ngan, not one, but two beautiful boats (that’s two Surat Thani 84280. more vessels than most of the other opera- tions on Ko Pha-Ngan). Trips can be booked 2 Activities at their offi ce in Chalok Lam, or at the Diving & Snorkelling Backpackers Information Centre (p570). With Ko Tao, the high-energy diving behe- Recommended. moth, just a few kilometres away, Ko Pha- Haad Yao Divers DIVING Ngan enjoys a much quieter, more laid-back ( %08 6279 3085; www.haadyaodivers.com) Es- diving scene focused on fun diving rather tablished in 1997, this dive operator has gar- than certifi cations. A recent drop in Open nered a strong reputation by maintaining Water certifi cation prices has made local pric- European standards of safety and customer es competitive with Ko Tao next door. Group service. sizes tend to be smaller on Ko Pha-Ngan since the island has less divers in general. Other Activities KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Like the other islands in the Samui Archi- Hiking and snorkelling day trips to Ang pelago, Pha-Ngan has several small reefs dis- Thong Marine National Park (p586 ) gen- persed around the island. The clear favour- erally depart from Ko Samui, but recently ite snorkelling spot is Ko Ma, a small island tour operators are starting to shuttle tour- in the northwest connected to Ko Pha-Ngan ists from Ko Pha-Ngan as well. Ask at your by a charming sandbar. There are also some accommodation for details about boat trips rock reefs of interest on the eastern side of as companies often come and go due to un- the island. stable petrol prices. A major perk of diving from Ko Pha-Ngan Many of the larger accommodation op- is the proximity to Sail Rock (Hin Bai), the tions can hook you up with a variety of best dive site in the and a aquatic equipment such as jet skis and kay- veritable beacon for whale sharks. This large aks, and the friendly staff at Backpackers pinnacle lies about 14km north of the island. Information Centre (p570) can attend to any KO PHA-NGAN GULFKO ISLANDS An abundance of corals and large tropical of your other water-sports needs. ACTIVITIES fi sh can be seen at depths of 10m to 30m, and there’s a rocky vertical swim-through Wake Up WAKEBOARDING called ‘The Chimney’. ( %08 7283 6755; www.wakeupwakeboarding.com; Dive shops on Ko Tao sometimes visit hJan-Oct) Jamie passes along his infi nite Sail Rock, however the focus tends to be wakeboarding wisdom to eager wannabes at more on swallow reefs (for newbie divers) his small water sports school in Chalok Lam. and the shark-infested waters at Chumphon Fifteen minutes of ‘air time’ will set you back Pinnacle. The most popular trips departing 1500B (2500B for 30 minutes), which is ex- from Ko Pha-Ngan are three-site day trips cellent value considering you get one-on-one which stop at Chumphon Pinnacle, Sail instruction. Kite-boarding, wake-skating Rock and one of the other premiere sites in and waterskiing sessions are also available, the area (see boxed text p573 ). These three- as are round-the-island day trips (2000B per stop trips cost from around 3650B to 3800B person; a six-person quorum needed). and include a full lunch. Two-dive trips to Eco Nature Tour TOUR Sail Rock will set you back around 2350B ( %08 4850 6273) This exceedingly popular to 2500B. oufi t o ff ers a ‘best of’ island trip, which in- The following list includes the main op- cludes elephant trekking, snorkelling and erators on the island with a solid reputation. a visit to the Chinese temple, a stunning Reefers DIVING viewpoint and Phang waterfall. The day trip, ( %08 6471 4045; www.reefersdiving.com) Based which costs 1500B, departs at 9am and re- at Shiralea (p564 ), this is one of the newer turns around 3pm. Bookings can be made at outfi ts on the island. Vic, the owner, and his its offi ce in Thong Sala or at the Backpackers gaggle of instructors are chilled and profes- Information Centre. Pha-Ngan Safari (%0 sional. Recommended. 7737 4159, 08 1895 3783) off ers a similar trip for 1900B. 560 4 Sleeping stay for a minimum number of days (around Ko Pha-Ngan’s legendary history of laid-back four or fi ve). If you plan to arrive the day revelry has solidifi ed its reputation as the of the party (or even the day before), we stomping ground for the gritty backpacker strongly suggest booking a room in advance, lifestyle. Recently, however, the island is or else you’ll probably have to sleep on the starting to see a shift towards a more upmar- beach (which you might end up doing any- ket clientele. Many local mainstays have col- way). Full Mooners can also stay on Samui lapsed their bamboo huts and constructed and take one of the hourly speedboat shut- newer, sleeker accommodation aimed at the tles (from 550B) to access the festivities. ever-growing legion of ‘fl ashpackers’. On other parts of the island, new tracts o Sarikantang RESORT $$$ of land are being cleared for Samui-esque (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5055; www.sarikantang.com; fi ve-star resorts. But backpackers fear not; Hat Seekantang; bungalows 1400-6200B; aWs) it’ll still be many years before the castaway Don’t get too strung out over trying to pro- lifestyle goes the way of the dodo. For now, nounce the resort’s name – you can simply Ko Pha-Ngan can revel in its three distinct call this place ‘heaven’. Cream-coloured cab- ins, framed with teak posts and lintels, are

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI classes of lodging: pinch-a-penny shacks, trendy midrange hang-outs, and blow-the- sprinkled among swaying palms and crum- bank luxury. bling winged statuettes. Inside, the rooms Hat Rin sees a huge number of visitors look like the set of a photo shoot for an inte- compared to the rest of the island. Party pil- rior design magazine. grims fl ock to this picturesque peninsula for Pha-Ngan Bayshore Resort RESORT $$ the legendary festivities, and although most (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5227; www.phanganbayshore. of them sleep through the daylight hours, com; Hat Rin Nok; r 1700-3200B; aiWs) Af- the setting remains quite picturesque de- ter a much-needed overhaul in 2009, this spite the errant beer bottle in the sand. The hotel-style operation has primed itself for southern part of Sunrise Beach is starting the ever-increasing infl ux of fl ashpackers in to reek of kerosene due to the nightly fi re- Hat Rin. Sweeping beach views and a giant related shenanigans at Drop-In Bar – need- swimming pool make Pha-Ngan Bayshore less to say it’s best to sunbathe at the quieter GULF ISLANDS one of the top addresses on Sunrise Beach. northern part of the sand. Pha-Ngan also caters to a subculture of Seaview Sunrise BUNGALOWS $ seclusion-seekers who crave a deserted slice (Map p560 ; www.seaviewsunrise.com; Hat Rin Nok; r of sand. The northern and eastern coasts of- 500-800; aW) As far as budget digs are con- fer just that – a place to escape. cerned, this is the only solid option for Full The following sleeping options are organ- Moon revellers who want a sleeping spot ised into fi ve sections: we start in Hat Rin, within inches of the tide. Huts are sturdy move along the southern coast, head up the and perfectly utilitarian. The polished wood- west side, across the northern beaches and en interiors are splashed with the occasional down the quiet eastern shore. burst of neon paint from the ghosts of par- ties past. Try for a bungalow away from the HAT RIN small canal to avoid the mosquitos. The thin peninsula of Hat Rin features three separate beaches. Hat Rin Nok (Sun- Palita Lodge BUNGALOWS $$ rise Beach) is the epicentre of Full Moon (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5172; www.palitalodge.com; Hat tomfoolery, Hat Rin Nai (Sunset Beach) is Rin Nok; bungalows 1800-5900B; aWs) Smack the less impressive stretch of sand on the in the heart of the action, Palita is a tribute far side of the tiny promontory, and Hat to the never-ending party that is Hat Rin’s Seekantang (also known as Hat Leela), just Sunrise Beach. Spacious concrete bungalows, south of Hat Rin Nai, is a smaller, more pri- with wooden accents and modern design el- vate beach. The three beaches are linked by ements, are neatly pressed together on this Ban Hat Rin (Hat Rin Town) – a small in- beachy wedge of sand and shrubs. Week-long land collection of restaurants and bars. bookings are a must during Full Moon revelry. Needless to say, the prices listed here are meaningless during periods of maximum Delight GUEST HOUSE $ lunar orbicularity. Also, during Full Moon (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5527; www.delightresort. events, bungalow operations expect you to com; Ban Hat Rin; r 700-2200B; aWs) Tucked behind the bright yellow Kodak sign in 561 e0400m Hat Rin # 00.2miles A B C D #û 25

ÿ# 14 ÿ# 3 1 ÿ# 7 1 GULF OF ÿ# 15 9ÿ# THAILAND Sǒrng•tǎa•ou #û 6 27 ÿ# to Thong ÿ# 1 Sala# 20 4 #ú 5ÿ# 19 16 ÿ# #ú#ú #û23 #ú #ú#ú17 Ù#Hat Rin Nok 22 #ú (Sunrise Beach) Hat Rin Nai Ù# 21 #û 2 ò# 18 28 2 (Sunset Beach) ÿ#Backpackers #û24 Information#ï ÿ# 10 Centre #û ÿ# 8 11 26 KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI ÿ#13 GULF OF THAILAND

3 3 2 Hat Ù#ÿ#

Seekantang ÿ# To Lighthouse Lighthouse

12 Bungalows #õ ‚ (700m) A B C D

Hat Rin ÿ Sleeping 17 Little Home...... B2 KO PHA-NGAN GULFKO ISLANDS 1 Blue Marine...... B2 18 Lucky Crab ...... B2 SLEEPING 2 Cocohut Village ...... C3 Mama Schnitzel ...... (see 20) 3 Coral Bungalows ...... A1 19 Monna Lisa ...... B2 4 Delight ...... B2 20 Mr K ...... B2 5 Friendly Resort...... B2 21 Nic's...... B2 6 Neptune's Villa ...... B2 22 Om Ganesh...... B2 7 Palita Lodge...... C1 Same Same Burger ...... (see 11) 8 Paradise Bungalows ...... C2 9 Pha-Ngan Bayshore û Drinking Resort...... B1 23 Cactus Bar...... C2 10 Rin Beach Resort ...... B2 24 Drop-In Bar...... C2 11 Same Same ...... B2 25 Mellow Mountain ...... C1 12 Sarikantang ...... C3 26 Rock ...... C2 13 Sea Breeze Bungalow ...... B3 27 Sunrise...... C1 14 Seaview Sunrise...... C1 28 Zoom/Vinyl ...... C2 15 Tommy Resort ...... C1 ý Entertainment ú Eating Club Paradise...... (see 8) 16 Lazy House ...... B2 Tommy...... (see 15)

the centre of Hat Rin, Delight off ers some Cocohut Village RESORT $$$ of the best lodging around. Spic-and-span (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5368; www.cocohut.com; Hat hotel rooms come with subtle designer de- Seekantang; bungalows 2800-12,000B; aiWs) tails (such as peacock murals) and are sand- This super-social place is the unoffi cial gath- wiched between an inviting swimming pool ering spot for vacationing Israelis. In fact, and a lazy lagoon peppered with lily pads. Cocohut is so happenin’ that guests might 562 forget that they are just up the street from Paradise Bungalows BUNGALOWS $ the brouhaha on Sunrise Beach. The priciest (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5244; Hat Rin Nok; bungalows lodging options, such as the cliff villas and 300-1200B; a) The world-famous Full Moon beachfront bungalows, are some of the best Party was hatched at this scruff y batch of bets in Hat Rin. bungalows, and the place has been living on its name fame ever since. The backpackers Tommy Resort RESORT $$ keep on coming to wax nostalgic, although (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5215; www.phangantom the grounds are starting to look more like myresort.com; Hat Rin Nok; r 1490-8000B; ais) a junkyard now that the family has divvied Tommy is a trendy address in the heart of up to land into several small ‘resorts’. Para- Hat Rin, striking a balance between chic dise lost. boutique and carefree backpacker hang-out. The rectangular swimming pool charges Stroll down Sunset Rd to fi nd the following: things up, since every other man-made body of water on the island looks like it was man- Neptune’s Villa RESORT $$ ufactured at the kidney-shaped pool factory. (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5251; http://neptunesvilla. net; Hat Rin Nai; r from 2000B;a) An old BUNGALOWS $$ KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Sea Breeze Bungalow favourite among travellers, Neptune’s is (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5162; Ban Hat Rin; bungalows an ever-expanding spot with a mixed bag 500-8000B; as) Sea Breeze gets a good re- of accommodation spread across several port card from our readers, and we agree; motel-style units. the labyrinth of secluded hillside cottages is Rin Beach Resort RESORT $$ an ideal hammocked retreat for any type of (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5112; www.rinbeachresort. traveller. Several bungalows, poised high on com; Hat Rin Nai; bungalows 1200-10,000B; stilts, deliver stunning views of Hat Rin and aWs) Giant amphorae, spewing forth the sea. gushes of water, welcome weary travel- Lighthouse Bungalows BUNGALOWS $ lers as they tumble off the wooden ferry. (o ff Map p560 ; %0 7737 5075; www.lighthouse Cottages are bright and airy with dark bungalows.com; Hat Seekantang; bungalows 300- cherry-wood accents and colourful sutra 1200B) Hidden at the far end of Hat Rin, this paintings.

GULF ISLANDS low-key collection of humble huts gathers Friendly Resort RESORT $$ along a sloping terrain punctuated by tow- (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5167; friendly_resort@ ering palms. To access this secluded resort, hotmail.com; Hat Rin Nai; r from 1000B; aWs) walk through Leela Beach Bungalows (don’t Looking out over the pier, Friendly has a bother stopping) and follow the wooden tangle of accommodation wrapped around boardwalk as it curves to the left (southeast) a small central pool. around the sea-swept boulders. Blue Marine BUNGALOWS $ Coral Bungalows RESORT $ (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5079; www.bluemarinepha (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5023; www.coralhaadrin.com; ngan.com; Hat Rin Nai; bungalows 600-1200B; Hat Rin Nai; bungalows 500-1000B;ais) This aW) Prim concrete bungalows topped by party-centric paradise has fi rmly planted its shimmering blue-tiled roofs. fl ag in ‘Backpackerland’ as the go-to spot for a booze-addled rompfest. By day, sun-wor- SOUTHERN BEACHES shippers straddle beachside chaises. Then, The accommodation along the southern by night, like a vampire, Coral transforms coast is the best bang for your baht on Ko into a sinister pool-party machine fuelled by Pha-Ngan. There are fl eeting views of the one too many vodka Red Bulls. islands in the Ang Thong Marine National Park; however, the southern beaches don’t Same Same GUEST HOUSE $ have the postcard-worthy turquoise waters (Map p560 ; %0 7737 5200; www.same-same.com; you might be longing for. This section starts Ban Hat Rin; r 500-800B;aW) Although still a at the port in Thong Sala and follows the super-sociable spot for Scandinavians dur- coast east towards Hat Rin. ing the Full Moon madness, Same Same is but a faint fl icker of what it used to be – Ban Tai especially during the quieter parts of the The waters at Ban Tai tend to be shallow and month. opaque, especially during low season, but lodging options are well-priced compared to 563 other parts of the island, and you’re not too wooden and concrete jungle cottages has far from Hat Rin. spotless interiors; some rooms are furnished with noticeably ornate dressers and vanities, o Coco Garden BUNGALOWS $ others have subtle dark-wood trimming. A ( %0 7737 7721, 08 6073 1147; www.cocogardens. dozen white wooden beach chairs orbit the com; bungalows 450-1250B; aW) The best adorable kidney-bean-shaped pool. budget spot along the southern coast, Coco WEST COAST BEACHES Garden one-ups the nearby resorts with Now that there are two smooth roads be- well-manicured grounds and sparkling bun- tween Thong Sala and Chalok Lam, the west galows that are almost pathologically clean. coast has seen a lot of development. The at- B52 BUNGALOWS $$ mosphere is a pleasant mix between the east (www.b52-beach-resort-phangan.info; bungalows coast’s quiet seclusion and Hat Rin's socia- 1650-4000B; aWs) Find your very own love ble vibe, although some of the beaches along shack at B52’s campus of Thai-styled bunga- the western shores (particularly towards lows sporting plenty of thatch, polished con- the south) aren’t as picturesque as the other crete fl oors and rustic tropical tree trunks. parts of the island. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Milky Bay Resort RESORT $$$ Ao Nai Wok to Si Thanu ( %0 7723 8566; http://milkybaythailand.com; bun- Close to Thong Sala, the resorts peppered galows 2300-13,200B; aiWs) Milky white along this breezy strip mingle with patches walls, which permeate the grounds, are pep- of gnarled mangroves. Despite the lack of pered with large black stones resembling appealing beaches, the prices are cheap and the spots on a cow. These bovine bulwarks the sunsets are memorable. snake through the resort linking the airy, thatched bungalows to the sea. o Chills Resort RESORT $$ ( %08 9875 2100; www.chillsresort.com; Ao Srith- Ban Khai anu; r from 1200B; aWs) Set along a stun- Like Ban Tai, the beaches aren’t the most ning and secluded stretch of stony outcrops, stunning, but the accommodation is cheap Chills’ cluster of delightfully simple-but- and there are beautiful views of Ang Thong KO PHA-NGAN GULFKO ISLANDS modern rooms all have peaceful ocean views SLEEPING Marine National Park in the distance. letting in plenty of sunlight and sea breezes. Boom’s Cafe Bungalows BUNGALOWS $ The natural rock-pool perched along the ( %0 7723 8318; www.boomscafe.com; bungalows breakers is the perfect place to swig an af- 400-1000B;a) Staying at Boom’s is like vis- ternoon cocktail while watching the sunset. iting the Thai family you never knew you had. The friendly owners lovingly tend their o Shambhala Bungalow sandy acreage and dote on the contented cli- Village BUNGALOWS $ entele. No one seems to mind that there’s no ( %08 9875 2100; www.shambhala-phangan.com; swimming pool, since the curling tide rolls Ao Nai Wok; bungalows 600-1200B; aW) Rather right up to your doorstep. Boom’s is located than bulldozing tired old beachside bunga- at the far eastern corner of Ban Khai, near lows, the owners of Shambhala have loving- Hat Rin. ly restored a batch of huts and added loads of personal touches that make this not only Mac Bay BUNGALOWS $ a memorable place to stay, but also a very ( %0 7723 8443; bungalows 500-1500B; as) comfortable one for those with small cof- Home to the Black Moon Party (another lu- fers. Expect fresh linen, carved wood, artistic nar excuse for Ko Pha-Ngan to go wild), Mac lighting and neatly designed bathrooms. Bay is a sandy slice of Ban Khai where even the cheaper bungalows are spic and span. At Loy Fa BUNGALOWS $ beer o’clock, grab a shaded spot on the sand ( %0 7737 7319; [email protected]; Ao and watch the sun dance amorphous shad- Srithanu; bungalows 300-800B; a) Loy Fa ows over the distant islands of Ang Thong scores high marks for its friendly, French- Marine Park. speaking Thai staff , charming gardens and sturdy huts guarding sweeping ocean views. Morning Star BUNGALOWS $$ Modern bungalows tumble down the prom- ( %0 7737 7756; www.morningstar-resort.info; bun- ontory onto an uberprivate sliver of ash- galows 1600-5390B; aWs) This collection of coloured sand. 564 Grand Sea Resort RESORT $$ style accommodation looks like a tropical ( %0 7737 7777; www.grandsearesort.com; Ao Nai mirage on Hat Yao’s northern headland. Wok; bungalows 1200-3000B; aWs) A good Vacationers, in various states of undress, choice for those wanting a bit of sand close linger around the large turquoise swimming to Thong Sala, Grand Sea feels like a collec- pool catching rays and Zs. Others nest in tion of wooden Thai spirit houses. their private suites amid polished hardwood fl oors and wicker daybeds. Hat Chaophao Like Hat Yao up the coast, this rounded Haad Son Resort RESORT $$ beach is lined with a variety of bungalow ( %0 7734 9104; www.haadson.info; Hat Son; operations. There’s an inland lake further bungalows 1000-8000B; aiWs) The word south, and a 7-Eleven to cure your midnight ‘complex’ has a double meaning at this munchies. vast resort; we suggest leaving a trail of breadcrumbs along the serpentine paths if Sunset Cove BUNGALOWS $$ you ever want to fi nd the way back to your ( %0 7734 9211; www.thaisunsetcove.com; bun- room. The poshest rooms aren’t worth the galows 1200-3580B; aiWs) There’s a feel- baht, so go for the budget digs; they’re sim- ing of Zen symmetry among the forested KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI ple, but you’ll have access to all of the on- assortment of boutique bungalows; the site amenities. towering bamboo shoots are evenly spaced along the cobbled paths weaving through Tantawan Bungalows BUNGALOWS $ brush and boulders. The beachside abodes ( %0 7734 9108; www.tantawanbungalow.com; Hat are particularly elegant, sporting slatted Son; bungalows 450-550B; s) This charming rectangular windows and barrel-basined teak nest, tucked among jungle fronds, is bathtubs. dripping with clinking chandeliers made from peach coral and khaki-coloured sea- Pha-Ngan Paragon BUNGALOWS $$$ shells. Guests can take a dip in the trapezoi- ( %08 4728 6064; www.phanganparagon.com; dal swimming pool or enjoy the sunrise on bungalows 2250-13,100B; aiWs) A tiny hide- their small bamboo porches. Don’t forget to away with seven rooms, the Paragon has de- try the tasty on-site restaurant. Diners sit in cor that incorporates stylistic elements from a sea of geometric cushions while gobbling GULF ISLANDS ancient Khmer, India and Thailand, without up some of the tastiest Thai and French- forfeiting any modern amenities. The ‘royal inspired dishes on the island. bedroom’ deserves a special mention – ap- parently the canopied bed has been import- High Life BUNGALOWS $ ed from Kashmir. ( %0 7734 9114; www.highlifebungalow.com; Hat Yao; bungalows 500-2000B; aWs) We can’t Hat Yao & Hat Son decide what’s more conspicuous: the dra- One of the busier beaches along the west matic ocean views from the infi nity-edged coast, Hat Yao sports a swimmable beach, swimming pool, or the blatant double numerous resorts and a few extra services entendre in the resort’s name. True to its such as ATMs and convenience stores. moniker, the 25 bungalows, of various Shiralea BUNGALOWS $ shapes and sizes, sit on a palmed outcrop- ( %08 0719 9256; www.shiralea.com; Hat Yao; bun- ping of granite soaring high above the cer- galows 500B; aWs) Although this batch of ulean sea. Advance bookings will set you fresh-faced poolside bungalows is not right back an extra 200B. on the beach (about 100m away), you’ll be Haad Yao See Through Boutique hard-pressed to fi nd a better deal on the is- Resort HOTEL $$ land. Reefers, the on-site dive outfi t off ers ( %0 7734 9315; www.haadyao.net; Hat Yao; r from world-class diving at your doorstep, and 1750B;aW) After a slice of Hat Yao beach was don’t forget to ask the friendly owner where cut up among brothers, ‘See Through’ came the name Shiralea comes from – we’re pretty into existence along a thin tract of land. sure you’ll be quite surprised. Rooms are decorated with a vibrant swatch- Haad Yao Bay View Resort RESORT $$$ book of yellows, greens and reds, however ( %0 7734 9193; www.haadyao-bayviewresort.com; the exterior – an imposing block of polished Hat Yao; r & bungalows 1500-7000B; aiWs) concrete – looks more construction site than Still sparkling after a facelift in 2008, this boutique chic. conglomeration of bungalows and hotel- 565 Hat Salad Chalok Lam (Chaloklum) & Hat Khom Hat Salad is our favourite beach on the west The cramped fi shing village at Chalok Lam coast, and it isn’t short on quality digs set is like no other place on Ko Pha-Ngan. The along the inviting sand. conglomeration of teak shanties and huts is a palpable reminder that the wide-reach- Cookies Salad RESORT $$ ing hand of globalisation has yet to touch ( %0 7734 9125, 08 3181 7125; www.cookies some parts of the world. Sŏrng·tăa·ou -phangan.com; bungalows 1500-3000B; s) The ply the route from here to Thong Sala for resort with a tasty name has delicious Bal- around 100B per person. There’s a dirt inese-styled bungalows orbiting a two-tiered road leading from Chalok Lam to Hat lap pool tiled in various shades of blue. Shag- Khom, and water taxis are available as well gy thatching and dense tropical foliage gives (50B to 100B). the realm a certain rustic quality, although you won’t want for creature comforts. Malibu BUNGALOWS $ ( %0 7737 4013; Chalok Lam; bungalows 300- Green Papaya BUNGALOWS $$$ 1300B;a) The casual vibe around the large ( %0 7737 4182; www.greenpapayaresort.com; bun- backyard beach (over the lagoon bridge) sets aiWs The polished KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI galows 3600-8500B; ) Malibu apart from the other budget bunga- GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI wooden bungalows at Green Papaya are a lows around Chalok Lam. A drink-wielding clear standout along the lovely beach at Hat hut, stationed on the private sandbar, lures Salad, however they come at quite a hefty guests of every ilk. The cheapest huts are a price. bit rough around the edges, although the Salad Hut BUNGALOWS $$ new round bungalow-like concoctions are ( %0 7734 9246; www.saladhut.com; bungalows overpriced. 1400-4000B; aiWs) Wholly unpretentious Mandalai HOTEL $$$ yet sharing a beach with some distinctly up- ( %0 7737 4316; www.mymandalai.com; Chalok scale options, this small clutch of Thai-style Lam; r 2750-5600B; ais) Like an ash-white bungalows sits but a stone’s throw from the Riyadh from a distant Arabian land, this rolling tide. Watch the sun gently set below small boutique hotel quietly towers over the waves from your lacquered teak porch. the surrounding shantytown of fi shermen’s KO PHA-NGAN GULFKO ISLANDS SLEEPING Salad Beach Resort BUNGALOWS $$ huts. Floor-to-ceiling windows command ( %0 7734 9149; www.phangan-saladbeachresort. views of tangerine-coloured fi shing boats in com; bungalows 1900-4900B; aiWs) A full- the bay, and there’s an intimate wading pool service retreat along the sands of Salad. hidden in the inner cloister. Room decor employs an unusual palette of Bottle Beach (Hat Khuat) colours, but the grounds are tasteful and un- This isolated dune has garnered a reputa- derstated – especially around the pool. tion as a low-key getaway, and has thus Ao Mae Hat become quite popular. During high season, The northwest tip of the island has excellent places can fi ll up fast so it’s best to try to ocean vistas, and little Ko Ma is connected to arrive early. Grab a long-tail taxi boat from Pha-Ngan by a stunning sandbar. Chalok Lam for 50B to 120B (depending on the boat’s occupancy). Royal Orchid BUNGALOWS $ ( %0 7737 4182; royal_orchid_maehaad@hotmail. Bottle Beach II BUNGALOWS $ com; bungalows 300-800B; ai) Handsome ( %0 7744 5156; bungalows 350-500B) At the backpacker bungalows are arranged like a far eastern corner of the beach, this is the zipper along a slender garden path – most spot where penny pinchers can live out their have fl eeting views of the serene beach and castaway fantasies. idyllic sandbar that extends to scenic Ko Ma Smile BUNGALOWS $ off shore. ( %08 1956 3133; [email protected]; bunga- NORTHERN BEACHES lows 400-700B) At the far western corner of Stretching from Chalok Lam to Thong Nai the beach, Smile features an assortment of Pan, the dramatic northern coast is a wild wooden huts that climb up a forested hill. jungle with several stunning and secluded The two-storey bungalows (700B) are our beaches – it’s the most scenic coast on the favourite. island. 566 Thong Nai Pan Ko Chang (the big Ko Chang) has recently The pair of rounded bays at Thong Nai Pan set up shop along the secluded waters of looks a bit like buttocks; Ao Thong Nai Pan Thong Reng. Follow the cheery plastic fl ow- Yai (yai means ‘big’) is the southern half, ers over the hill from Than Sadet to fi nd and Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi (noi means ‘lit- uberbasic digs drenched in bright shades of tle’) curves just above. These beaches have paint. been increasing in popularity over the last few years, as bamboo bungalows are being Hat Thian razed to make room for elaborate resorts. o The Sanctuary BUNGALOWS $$ ( %08 1271 3614; www.thesanctuarythailand.com; Anantara Rasananda RESORT $$$ dm 200B, bungalows 450-5450B) If you’re look- ( %0 7723 9555; www.rasananda.com; villas from ing for Alex Garland’s mythical beach, this 5000B; aiWs) Rasananda represents the is about as close as it gets. A friendly enclave future of Ko Pha-Ngan. This attempt at fi ve- promoting relaxation, the Sanctuary is an star luxury is a sweeping sand-side property inviting haven off ering splendid lodgings with a smattering of semi-detached villas – while also functioning as a holistic retreat many bedecked with private plunge pools. A (think yoga classes and detox sessions). Ac- KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI savvy mix of modern and traditional săh·lah commodation, in various manifestations of styling prevails, and new Anantara manage- twigs, is scattered around the resort, mar- ment means that this high-end stalwart is ried to the natural surroundings. You’ll want here to stay. to Nama-stay forever. Dolphin BUNGALOWS $ Beam Bungalows BUNGALOWS $ (bungalows 500-1400B;aW) This hidden re- % Beam is treat gives yuppie travellers a chance to ( 0 7927 2854; bungalows 300-700B) set back from the beach and tucked behind a rough it in style, while granola-types will coconut palm grove. Charming wooden huts soak up every inch of the laid-back charm. have dangling hammocks out front, and big Quiet afternoons are spent lounging on the bay windows face the ocean through the comfy cushions in one of the small pagodas swaying palms. hidden throughout the jungle. Lodging is only available on a fi rst-come basis. GULF ISLANDS Hat Yuan Hat Yuan has a few bungalow operations, Longtail Beach Resort BUNGALOWS $ and is quite secluded as there are no roads ( %0 7744 5018; www.longtailbeachresort.com; bun- connecting this little beach to Hat Rin down galows 390-1150B; aW) Eff ortlessly adorable, and one of the last remaining batches of the coast. beach bungalows in the area, Longtail off ers Barcelona BUNGALOWS $ backpackers a taste of Pha-Ngan’s past with ( %0 7737 5113; bungalows 300-700B) Solid wood its charming thatch-and-bamboo abodes. huts come in two shades: natural wood or creamy white. They climb up the hill on EAST COAST BEACHES stilts behind a palm garden and have good Robinson Crusoe, eat your heart out. The vistas and jovial staff . east coast is the ultimate hermit hang-out. For the most part you’ll have to hire a boat Eating to get to these beaches, but water taxis are 5 available in Thong Sala and Hat Rin. Ko Pha-Ngan is no culinary capital, espe- cially since most visitors quickly absorb the Than Sadet & Thong Reng lazy lifestyle and wind up eating at their ac- Mai Pen Rai BUNGALOWS $ commodation. Those with an adventurous ( %0 7744 5090; www.thansadet.com; bungalows appetite should check out the island’s centre 600B; i) Mai pen rai is the Thai equivalent of local commerce, Thong Sala. of ‘don’t worry, be happy’, which isn’t too surprising since this bay elicits nothing but HAT RIN sedate smiles. Bungalows mingle with Plaa’s This bustling 'burb has the largest con- next door on the hilly headland, and sport glomeration of restaurants and bars on the panels of straw weaving with gabled roofs. island, yet most of them are pretty lousy. The infamous Chicken Corner is a popular Treehouse BUNGALOWS $ intersection stocked with several faves such ([email protected]; bungalows from as Mr K Thai Food (Map p560 ; Ban Hat Rin; dish- 200B) The legendary backpacker hang-out of es 30-80B) and Mama Schnitzel (Map p560 ; 567 Ban Hat Rin; dishes 40-100B), which promise to the same same name, this bright-red burger cure any case of the munchies, be it noon or joint is the same same as McDonald’s (ex- midnight. cept pricier).

Lazy House INTERNATIONAL $$ SOUTHERN BEACHES (Map p560 ; Hat Rin Nai; dishes 90-270B; hlunch On Saturday evenings from 4pm to 10pm, a & dinner) Back in the day, this joint was the side street in the eastern part of Thong Sala owner’s apartment – everyone liked his becomes Walking Street – a bustling pedes- cooking so much that he decided to turn the trian zone mostly fi lled with locals hawking place into a restaurant and hang-out spot. their wares to other islanders. There’s plenty Today, Lazy House is easily one of Hat Rin’s on off er, from clothing to food. Be sure to try best places to veg out in front of a movie the delicious red prok with gravy (40B) at with a scrumptious shepherd’s pie. Lang Tang – you’ll fi nd it in glass cases next to a large English sign saying ‘Numpanich’. Little Home THAI $ (Map p560 ; Ban Hat Rin; mains from 40B; hbreak- Night Market MARKET $ fast, lunch & dinner) With no design aesthetic (Thong Sala; dishes 25-180B; hdinner) A heady whatsoever, Little Home woos the masses mix of steam and snacking locals, Thong Sa- KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI with cheap, fl avourful Thai grub that’s gob- la’s night market is a must for those looking bled up with alacrity among wooden tables for a dose of culture while nibbling on a low- and fl imsy plastic chairs. priced snack. The best place to grab some cheap grub is the stall in the far right corner Monna Lisa ITALIAN $$ with a large white banner. Hit up the vendor (Map p560 ; Hat Rin Nai; pizza & pasta from 200B; next door for tasty seafood platters, such as hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The best spot in Hat red snapper served over a bed of thick noo- Rin for a pizza, Monna Lisa is a relatively dles. Banana pancakes and fruit smoothies new operation run by a team of friendly Ital- abound for dessert. ians. The mushroom and ham pizza prac- tically knocked our socks off – as did the Kaito JAPANESE $$ homemade truffl e pasta. (Thong Sala; dishes from 130B; hdinner Thu-Mon) Authentic Japanese imports are the speci- KO PHA-NGAN GULFKO ISLANDS Nic’s INTERNATIONAL $$ ality here – slurp an Asahi while savouring EATING (Map p560 ; Ban Hat Rin; mains 80-280B; hdinner) your tangy seaweed salad and tonkatsu A dizzying realm of polished concrete and (pork cutlet). The upstairs level has cosy coloured pillows, Nic’s – at the back of Hat cushion seating while the main sitting area Rin’s lake – slings tasty pizzas and tapas eve- is fl anked with manga and pocket-sized ry evening. Slurp a Singha during the 6pm- Japanese novels. to-8pm happy hour. Mason’s Arms BRITISH $$ Lucky Crab SEAFOOD $$ (Thong Sala; mains 160-350B; hlunch & dinner) (Map p560 ; Hat Rin Nai; dishes 100-400B; hlunch Suddenly, a clunky structure emerges from & dinner) Lucky Crab is your best bet for the swaying palms; it’s a Tudor-style manse, seafood in Hat Rin. Rows of freshly caught plucked directly from Stratford-upon-Avon creatures are presented nightly atop mini- and plunked down in the steamy jungle. ature longtail boats loaded with ice. Once This lodge-like lair is one blood pudding you’ve picked your prey, grab a table inside away from being an offi cial British colony. amid dangling plants and charming stone The fi sh ’n’ chips is a local favourite. furnishings. Pizza Chiara ITALIAN $$ Om Ganesh INDIAN $$ (Thong Sala; pizzas 180-320B; hlunch & dinner) (Map p560 ; Hat Rin Nai; dishes 70-190B; hbreak- The quintessential chequered tablecloths fast, lunch & dinner) Customers meditate over confi rm it (in case you didn’t guess from the curries, biryani rice, roti and lassis though name): Pizza Chiara is all about tasty Italian the local expats joke that every dish tastes fare. Go for the Pizza Cecco smothered with the same. Platters start at 350B. prosciutto, salami, mushrooms and cotto Same Same Burger BURGER $$ cheese. (Map p560 ; www.same-same.com; Hat Rin Nai; Ando Loco MEXICAN $ burgers 180-230B; hlunch & dinner) Owned by (Ban Tai; mains from 59B; hdinner) This outdoor the folks who run the backpacker digs with Mexican hang-out looks like an animation 568 cell from a vintage Hanna-Barbera cartoon, A few other noteworthy spots can be with assorted kitschy accoutrements such as found around the island for those seeking papier-mâché cacti. Down a super-sized mar- something a bit mellower. garita and show your skills on the beach vol- leyball court. Ando Loco closes during low HAT RIN season (around September to December). Hat Rin is the beating heart of the legendary Full Moon fun, and the area can get pretty OTHER BEACHES wound up even without the infl uence of lu- nar phases. When the moon isn’t lighting up o Sanctuary HEALTH FOOD $$ the night sky, partygoers fl ock to other spots Forget what you (Hat Thian; mains from 130B) on the island’s south side. See the boxed text know about health food: the Sanctuary’s res- on p558 for details. The following party ven- taurant proves that wholesome eats can also ues fl ank Hat Rin’s infamous Sunrise Beach be delicious. Enjoy a tasty parade of plates – from south to north. from Indian pakoras to crunchy Vietnamese spring rolls – as an endless playlist of music Rock BAR, CLUB (undoubtedly the island’s best) wafts over- (Map p560 ) Great views of the party from the head. Don’t forget to wash it all down with a KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI elevated terrace on the far south side of the shot of neon-green wheatgrass. Yum! beach.

Cucina Italiana ITALIAN $$ Club Paradise BAR, CLUB (Jenny’s; Chalok Lam; pizza 180B; hdinner) Cuci- (Map p560 ) Paradise basks in its celebrity sta- na Italiana has a cult following on Ko Pha- tus as the genesis of the lunar loco-motion. Ngan. The friendly Italian chef is passionate about his food, and creates all of his dishes Drop-In Bar BAR, CLUB from scratch. On Thursday and Sunday you (Map p560 ) This dance shack blasts the chart can order unlimited toppings on your oven- toppers that we all secretly love. The other roasted pizza for only 180B. nights of the year are equally as boisterous.

Peppercorn STEAKHOUSE $$ Zoom/Vinyl BAR, CLUB (www.peppercornphangan.com; Sri Thanu; mains (Map p560 ) An ear-popping trance venue.

GULF ISLANDS 160-400; h2-10pm Mon-Sat) Escargot and suc- Cactus Bar BAR, CLUB culent steaks in a rickety jungle cottage? (Map p560 ) Smack in the centre of Hat Rin You bet. Peppercorn may be tucked in the Nok, Cactus pumps out a healthy mix of old brush away from the sea, but that shouldn’t school tunes, hip-hop and R&B. detract foodies from seeking out one of Pha- Ngan’s best attempts at highbrow interna- Sunrise BAR, CLUB tional cuisine. (Map p560 ) A newer spot on the sand where trance beats shake the graffi ti-ed walls. Cookies Salad THAI $$ (Hat Salad; mains from 100B; hbreakfast, lunch & Tommy BAR, CLUB dinner) Worth tracking down if you’re stay- (Map p560 ) One of Hat Rin’s largest venues ing on the west coast, this casual restaurant, lures the masses with black lights and trance perched atop a cliff on the south side of Hat music blaring on the sound system. Drinks Salad, off ers a stunning assortment of Thai are dispensed from a large ark-like bar. treats (don’t miss the Penang curry) and unique smoothies (including a rich nutella Mellow Mountain BAR, CLUB swirl). Sadly cookie salads are not on off er. (Map p560 ) Also called ‘Mushy Mountain’ (you’ll know why when you get there), this trippy hang-out sits at the northern edge of Drinking 6 Hat Rin Nok delivering stellar views of the Every month, on the night of the full moon, shenanigans below. pilgrims pay tribute to the party gods with trance-like dancing, wild screaming and OTHER BEACHES glow-in-the-dark body paint. The throngs Eagle Pub BAR of bucket-sippers and fi re twirlers gather on (Hat Yao) At the southern end of Hat Yao, this the infamous Sunrise Beach (Hat Rin Nok) drink-dealing shack, built right into the rock and party until the sun replaces the moon face, is tattooed with the neon graffi ti of vir- in the sky. tually every person who’s passed out on the 569 lime green patio furniture after too many Here’s another important thing to remem- caipirinhas. ber: your travel insurance does not cover any drug-related injury or treatment. Drug-related Jam BAR freak-outs do happen – we’ve heard fi rst-hand (Hin Wong; www.thejamphangan.com) It’s DIY live accounts of partiers slipping into extended peri- music at this friendly nightspot on the west ods of delirium. Suan Saranrom (Garden of Joys) coast. Saturday nights are open mic, and the Psychiatric Hospital in Surat Thani has to take rest of the week you’ll usually catch a few on extra staff during full-moon periods to handle locals jamming on their guitars. the number of fa·ràng who freak out on magic mushrooms, acid or other abundantly available Pirates Bar BAR hallucinogens. (Hat Chaophao) This wacky drinkery is a WOMEN TRAVELLERS Female travellers replica of a pirate ship built into the cliff s. should be extra careful when partying on the When you’re sitting on the deck and the tide island. We’ve received many reports about drug- is high (and you’ve had a couple drinks), you and alcohol-related rape (and these situations can almost believe you’re out at sea. These are not limited to Full Moon parties). Another guys host the well-attended Moon Set par- disturbing problem is the unscrupulous behav- ties, three days before Hat Rin gets pumpin’ iour of some of the local motorcycle taxi drivers. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Several complaints have been fi led about drivers GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI for the Full Moon fun. groping female passengers; there are even re- ports of severe sexual assaults. Sheesha Bar BAR (Chalok Lam) The antithesis of grungy Hat MOTORCYCLES Ko Pha-Ngan has more motor- Rin, Sheesha Bar swaps buckets of Samsung cycle accidents than injuries incurred from Full for designer drinks. The enticing patchwork Moon tomfoolery. Nowadays there’s a system of of beige sandstone and horizontal slats of paved roads, but much of it is a labyrinth of rutty dirt-and-mud paths. The island is also very hilly, mahogany fi t right in with the arabesque and even if the road is paved, it can be too dif- Mandalai Hotel across the street (owned by fi cult for most to take on. The very steep road to the same family). Hat Rin is a perfect case in point. The island now has a special ambulance that trolls the island Flip Flop Pharmacy BAR helping injured bikers. (Thong Nai Pan) This open-air bar on the KO PHA-NGAN GULFKO ISLANDS sands of Thong Nai Pan is the area’s pre- Emergency 8 ferred hang-out spot. Main police station (Map p 557 ;%0 7737 7114, 191) Located about 2km north of Thong Amsterdam BAR Sala. The police station in Hat Rin (near Hat Rin (Ao Plaay Laem) Near Hat Chaophao on the school) will not let you fi le a report; to do so you west coast, Amsterdam attracts tourists and must go to Thong Sala. Local police have been locals from all over the island, who are look- known to charge 200B to fi le a report. Do not ing for a chill spot to watch the sunset. pay this – it should be free. Note that if you are arrested you do have the right to an embassy 8 Information phone call; you do not have to agree to accept the ‘interpreter’ you are off ered. Dangers & Annoyances Some of your fondest vacation memories may Internet Access be forged on Ko Pha-Ngan; just be mindful of the Hat Rin and Thong Sala are the main centres of following situations that can seriously tarnish internet activity, but every beach with develop- your experience on this hot-blooded jungle ment now off ers access. Rates are generally island. 2B per minute, with a 10B to 20B minimum and DRUGS You’re relaxing on the beach when sud- discounts if you stay on for more than an hour. denly a local walks up and off ers you some local Places off ering a rate of 1B per minute usually herb at a ridiculously low price. ‘No thanks,’ you have turtle-speed connections. say, knowing that the penalties for drug use in Thailand are fi erce. But the vendor drops his Laundry price even more and practically off ers you the If you got fl uorescent body paint on your clothes weed for free. Too good to be true? Obviously. during your full-moon romp, don’t bother send- As soon as you take a toke, the seller rats you ing them to the cleaners – the paint will never out to the cops and you’re whisked away to the come out. Trust us, we tried. For your other local prison where you must pay a wallet-busting washing needs, there are heaps of places that fi ne. This type of scenario happens all the time will gladly wash your clothes. Prices hover on Ko Pha-Ngan so it’s best to avoid the call of around 40B per kilo, and express cleanings the ganja. shouldn’t be more than 60B per kilo. 570 Medical Services 8 Getting There & Away Medical services can be a little crooked in Ko As always, the cost and departure times are Pha-Ngan – expect unstable prices and under- subject to change. Rough waves are known to qualifi ed doctors. Many clinics charge a 3000B cancel ferries between the months of October entrance fee before treatment. Serious medical and December. issues should be dealt with on nearby Ko Samui. Bangkok, Hua Hin & Chumphon Ko Pha-Ngan Hospital (Map p557 ; %0 7737 The Lomprayah and Seatran Discovery service 7034; Thong Sala; h24hr) About 2.5km north has bus-boat combination packages that depart of Thong Sala; offers 24-hour emergency from Bangkok and pass through Hua Hin and services. Chumphon. It is also quite hassle-free to take the train from Bangkok to Chumphon and switch to a Money ferry service (it works out to be about the same Thong Sala, Ko Pha-Ngan’s fi nancial ‘capital’, price and the train is comfi er if you get a cou- has plenty of banks, currency converters and chette). Travellers can also opt for the slightly several Western Union offi ces. Hat Rin has nu- cheaper government bus to Bangkok. For ad- merous ATMs and a couple of banks at the pier. ditional information about travelling through There are also ATMs in Hat Yao, Chaloklum and Chumphon see p 533 . KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Thong Nai Pan. Ko Samui Post There are around a dozen daily departures be- Main post office (Map p 560 ; h8.30am- tween Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Samui. These boats 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) In Thong Sala; leave throughout the day from 7am to 6pm and there’s a smaller office right near the pier in take from 20 minutes to an hour. All leave from Hat Rin. either Thong Sala or Hat Rin on Ko Pha-Ngan. The Haad Rin Queen goes back and forth be- Tourist information tween Hat Rin and Big Buddha Beach on Samui. There are no government-run Tourist Author- ity of Thailand (TAT) offi ces on Ko Pha-Ngan, Ko Tao instead tourists get their information from local Ko Tao-bound Lomprayah ferries depart from travel agencies and brochures. Most agencies Thong Sala on Ko Pha-Ngan at 8.30am and 1pm are clumped around Hat Rin and Thong Sala. and arrive at 9.45am and 2.15pm. The Seatran GULF ISLANDS Agents take a small commission on each sale, service departs from Thong Sala at 8.30am and but collusion keeps prices relatively stable and 2pm daily. Taxis depart Hat Rin for Thong Sala standardised. Choose an agent you trust if you one hour before the boat departure. The cheap- are spending a lot of money – faulty bookings er-but-slower Songserm leaves Ko Pha-Ngan at do happen on Ko Pha-Ngan, especially since the 12.30pm and alights at 2.30pm. island does not have a unit of tourist police. Several mini-magazines also off er compre- Surat Thani & the Andaman Coast hensive information about the island’s accom- Combination boat-bus tickets are available at modation, restaurants, activities and Full Moon any travel agency. Simply tell them your desired Parties. Our favourite option is the pocket-sized destination and they will sell you the necessary Phangan Info (www.phangan.info). links in the transport chain. Most travellers will Backpackers Information Centre (Map p 560 ; pass through Surat Thani as they swap coasts. %0 7737 5535; www.backpackersthailand. There are approximately six daily departures com; Hat Rin) A must for travellers looking to between Ko Pha-Ngan and Krabi on the Raja Car book high-quality tours (diving, live-aboards, Ferry, Songserm or Seatran. These boats leave jungle safaris etc) and transport. Not just for from Thong Sala throughout the day from 7am backpackers, it’s an expat-run travel agency to 8pm. Every night, depending on the weather, that offers peace of mind with every purchase – a night boat runs from Surat, departing at 11pm. travellers are provided with the mobile phone Boats in the opposite direction leave Ko Pha- number of the owners should any problems Ngan at 10pm. Visit Backpackers Thailand arise. It also runs the Crystal Dive shop next (www.backpackersthailand.com) to get door. detailed departure times for additional Anda- man destinations. Websites Backpackers Thailand (www.backpackersthai 8 Getting Around land.com) Everything you need to know about Ko Pha-Ngan, from booking accommodation to Motorbikes You can rent motorcycles all over finding out the Full Moon schedule. Doubles as the island for 150B to 250B per day. Always wear a vast resource for the whole country as well. a helmet – it’s the law on Ko Pha-Ngan, and local policemen are starting to enforce it. If you plan 571 on riding over dirt tracks it is imperative that you e# 01km Ko Tao 00.5miles rent a bike comparable to a Honda MTX125 – ‚ gearless scooters cannot make the journey. To Chumphon Pinnacle (13km) Bicycle rentals are discouraged unless you’re fi t Light Green Mango BayÝ# House enough to take on Lance Armstrong. Ý#Rock Ao Mumuang Point Sŏrng·tăa·ou Pick-up trucks and sŏrng·tăa·ou Ko Nang Ý# #æ Yuan Japanese Garden Ao Kluay chug along the island’s major roads and the f# Theuan riding rates double after sunset. Ask your ac- commodation about free or discount transfers R(379m) Ao Tha Then R(210m) when you leave the island. The trip from Thong Ý#White Rock Sala to Hat Rin is 100B; further beaches will set Ao Hin 4 Wong you back around 150B. To Sairee Beach Water taxi Long-tail boats depart from Thong Sairee Chumphon Ù##\ R(310m) Sala, Chalok Lam and Hat Rin, heading to a vari- (75km)‚ Village Ao ety of far-fl ung destinations such as Hat Khuat 4Ao Mae Mao #æ King Rama V Boulder (Bottle Beach) and Ao Thong Nai Pan. Expect to Hat Ao Mae Ù# R pay anywhere from 50B for a short trip, and up Khao Mae Hat f#ñ# (310m) Ao Tanot to 300B for a lengthier journey. You can charter 4#\ Ban Mae Hat KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI a private boat ride from beach to beach for ‚ GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI about 150B per 15 minutes of travel. R To Ko Ù# (190m) Pha-Ngan Hat Sai Nuan (46km); Ban Chalok Ao Leuk Ban Kao Ko Samui \# Ko Tao เกาะเตา (80km); Hat Sai Ù# Ao Daeng Shark POP 1382 Surat Thani Island (106km) Chalok Ao First there was Ko Samui, then Ko Pha- Ban Kao Thian

Ngan; now, the cult of Ko Tao (‘Ko Taoism’ Ok To Sail Rock GULF OF THAILAND (16km) ‚ perhaps?) has emerged along Thailand’s crystalline Gulf coast. Today, thousands of visitors come to worship the turquoise wa- where else in the world. The shallow bays ters off shore, and quite often they stay. The scalloping the island are the perfect spot secret to Ko Tao’s undeniable appeal? Sim- for newbie divers to take their fi rst stab at KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS ple: although the island is only 21 sq km, tiny scuba. On shore, over 40 dive centres are ACTIVITIES Tao sure knows how to pack it in – there’s ready to saddle you up with some gear and something for everyone, and nothing is in teach you the ropes in a three-and-a-half-day moderation. Diving enthusiasts cavort with Open Water certifi cation course. We know, sharks and rays in a playground of tangled we know, homework on a holiday sucks, neon coral. Hikers and hermits can re-enact but the intense competition among scuba an episode from Lost in the dripping coastal schools means that certifi cation prices are jungles. And when you’re Robinson Crusoe- unbeatably low, and the standards of service ed out, hit the pumpin’ bar scene that rages are top notch, as dozens of dive shops vie on until dawn. for your baht. Many years have passed since the fi rst It’s no surprise that this underwater play- backpacker came to the scrubby island and ground has become exceptionally popular planted a fl ag in the name of self-respecting with beginners; the waters are crystal clear, shoestring travellers everywhere (hello pizza there are loads of neon reefs, and tempera- parlours and ladyboy shows), but fret not, tures feel like bathwater. The best dive sites there’s still plenty of time to join the tribe. are found at off shore pinnacles within a Ko Tao has several years to go before cor- 20km radius of the island (see the boxed porate resort owners bulldoze the remaining text p573 ), but seasoned scubaholics almost rustic cottages, and visitors start discussing always prefer the top-notch sites along the stockholdings rather than sea creatures Andaman Coast. The local marine wild- spotted on their latest dive. life includes groupers, moray eels, batfi sh, bannerfi sh, barracudas, titan triggerfi sh, 2 Activities angelfi sh, clownfi sh (Nemos), stingrays, Diving reef sharks, and frequent visits by almighty Never been diving before? Ko Tao is the whale sharks. place to lose your scuba virginity. The island When you alight at the pier in Mae Hat, issues more scuba certifi cations than any- swarms of touts will try to coax you into 572

ZERO TO HERO

It’s the oldest story in the book: ‘I came to Ko Tao on vacation and six months later I’m still here!’ Seems like the island’s magical magnetic energy catches hold of everyone, so don’t be surprised if you too fi nd yourself altering plane tickets. For those of you who anticipate embracing the castaway lifestyle, consider going from ‘Zero to Hero’ as they call it on Ko Tao. Over the last few years, several of the savvier div- ing operators started package deals where you can go from scuba newbie to pro over the course of a couple of months. You’ll graduate through four levels of diving certifi cations, ‘intern’ as a divemaster at your dive school, then take a stab at the instructor program. Prices hover around 80,000B and include all the bells and whistles necessary to turn you into a fi sh. Accommodation is not included.

staying at their dive resort with promises Most dive schools will hook you up with of a ‘special price for you’ – some touts cheap – or even free – accommodation. Al-

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI even start accosting tourists on the boat most all scuba centres off er gratis fan rooms ride over to the island. There are dozens of for anyone doing beginner coursework. dive centres on Ko Tao, so it’s best to arrive Expect large crowds and booked-out armed with the names of a few reputable beds throughout the months of Decem- schools. If you aren’t rushed for time, con- ber, January, June, July and August, and a sider relaxing on the island for a couple of monthly glut of wannabe divers after every days before making any diving decisions – Full Moon Party on Ko Pha-Ngan next door. you will undoubtedly bump into swarms of If you are planning to do ‘diving detox’ after scubaphiles and instructors who will gladly a Full Moon romp, make sure you purchase off er their advice and opinions. Remem- your ferry tickets at least two days before ber: the success of your diving experience the eve of the lunar lunacy – boats sell out (especially if you are learning how to dive) quickly. will largely depend on how much you like The following dive schools are among

GULF ISLANDS your instructor. There are other factors to the best operators on the island; they all consider as well, like the size of your diving do their bit to help keep Ko Tao a pristine group, the condition of your equipment, place. and the condition of the dive sites, to name a few. Ban’s Diving School DIVING For the most part, diving prices are (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6466; www.amazingkohtao. somewhat standardised across the island, com; Sairee Beach) A well-oiled diving ma- so there’s no need to spend your time chine and relentlessly expanding conglom- hunting around for the best deal. A PADI erate, Ban’s certifi es more divers per year (www.padi.com) Open Water certifi cation than any other scuba school in the world course costs 9800B; an SSI (www.ssithailand. and refurbishments in 2009 have given it com) Open Water certifi cate is slightly less a fi ve-star feel. Classroom sessions tend to (9000B) because you do not have to pay be conducted in large groups, but there’s a for instructional materials. An Advanced reasonable amount of individual attention Open Water certifi cation course will set in the water. A breadth of international in- you back 8500B, a rescue course is 9500B structors means that students can learn to and the Divemaster program costs a cool dive in their native tongue. The affi liated 25,000B. Fun divers should expect to pay resort (p577 ) is quite popular with party- roughly 1000B per dive, or around 7000B seekers. for a 10-dive package. These rates include Big Blue Diving DIVING all dive gear, boat, instructors/guides and (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6415, 0 7745 6772; www. snacks. Discounts are usually given if you bigbluediving.com; Sairee Beach) If Goldilocks bring your own equipment. Be wary of dive were picking a dive school, she’d probably centres that off er too many price cuts – pick Big Blue – this midsize operation (not safety is paramount, and a shop giving out too big, not too small) gets props for fos- unusually good deals is probably cutting tering a sociable vibe while maintaining a too many corners. high standard of service. Divers of every 573 ilk can score dirt-cheap accommodation at on-site swimming pools sweeten the deal. their resort (p 578). Highly recommended.

Buddha View DIVING New Heaven DIVING ( %0 7745 6074; www.buddhaview-diving.com; ( %0 7745 6587; www.newheavendiveschool.com; Chalok Ban Kao) Another big dive operation Chalok Ban Kao) The owners of this small div- on Ko Tao, Buddha View off ers the standard ing operation dedicate a lot of their time to fare of certifi cation and special programs for preserving the natural beauty of Ko Tao’s technical diving (venturing beyond the usu- underwater sites by conducting regular reef al parameters of recreational underwater checks and contributing to reef restoration exploration). Discounted accommodation is eff orts. A special CPAD research diver certi- available at its friendly resort (p579 ). fi cation program is available in addition to the regular order of programs and fun dives. Crystal Dive DIVING (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6107; www.crystaldive.com; Scuba Junction DIVING Mae Hat) Crystal is the Meryl Streep of diving (Scuba J; Map p574 ; %0 7745 6164; www.scuba operators, winning all the awards for best -junction.com; Sairee Beach) A groovy new store- performance year after year. It’s one of the front and a team of outgoing instructors lure KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI largest schools on the island (and around travellers looking for a more intimate dive GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI the world), although high-quality instruc- experience. Scuba Junction guarantees a tors and intimate classes keep the school maximum of four people per diving group. feeling quite personal. Multilingual staff Snorkelling members, air-conditioned classes and two Snorkelling is a popular alternative to div- ing, although scuba snobs will tell you that

DIVE SITES AT A GLANCE

In general, divers don’t have a choice as to which sites they explore. Each dive school chooses a smattering of sites for the day depending on weather and ocean conditions. Deeper dive sites such as Chumphon Pinnacle are usually visited in the morning. Af- KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS ternoon boats tour the shallower sites such as Japanese Gardens. Recently, two large ACTIVITIES vessels have been sunk off the coast, providing scubaphiles two new wreck dives. Divers hoping to spend some quality time searching for whale sharks at Sail Rock should join one of the dive trips departing daily from Ko Pha-Ngan. » Chumphon Pinnacle (36m maximum depth), 13km west of Ko Tao, has a colourful assortment of sea anemones along the four interconnected pinnacles. The site plays host to schools of giant trevally, tuna and large grey reef sharks. Whale sharks are known to pop up once in a while. » Green Rock (25m maximum depth) is an underwater jungle gym featuring caverns, caves and small swim-throughs. Rays, grouper and triggerfish are known to hang around. It’s a great place for a night dive. » Japanese Gardens (12m maximum depth), between Ko Tao and Ko Nang Yuan, is a low-stress dive site perfect for beginners. There’s plenty of colourful coral, and turtles, stingray and pufferfish often pass by. » Mango Bay (16m maximum depth) might be your first dive site if you are putting on a tank for the first time. Lazy reef fish swim around as newbies practice their skills on the sandy bottom. » Sail Rock (34m maximum depth), best accessed by Ko Pha-Ngan, features a mas- sive rock chimney with a vertical swim-through, and large pelagics like barracuda and kingfish. This is one of the top spots in southeast Asia to see whale sharks. » Southwest Pinnacle (33m maximum depth) offers divers a small collection of pinnacles that are home to giant groupers and barracudas. Whale sharks and leopard sharks are sometimes spotted (pun partially intended). » White Rock (29m maximum depth) is home to colourful corals, angelfish, clown fish and territorial triggerfish. Another popular spot for night divers. 574 e# 00.5km Mae Hat & Sairee Beach 00.25miles A B C D

444ÿ# 18

1 1 444ÿ# 15 444ÿ# 19 11 14 Ø# 444ÿ# 25 2 444ÿ# 2 7-Eleven 27 30 7-Eleven #ú#ú # KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI 13 ÿ# # 38 #ú # Bon Ø# #û#ú 32 Voyage 4444 Ø#Ø##ú 39 29 #ú49 #û 7 8 #ú 34 52 ÿ#17 #û Sairee 54 45#ú Ù# Village 444Hat Sai Ri #ú Ø# 1 3 55#û 28 3 #ú 24 ÿ# 44 444Ø# 2 10 Ø# ÿ# 23 51 #û GULF444 OF 3 Ø# ÿ# 12 THAILAND #ú 33 4 9Ø# 4 GULF ISLANDS 444 5 Ø# # 4447-Eleven #ì 47#û 444#û ÿ# 53 16 5 King Rama #æ 5 VBoulder To Chumphon 444 ‚(75km) ñ#

Hat Ao Mae Ù# ÿ# 21 Ao Mae ÿ# 22 6 To Ko 20 ÿ# 6 Pha-Ngan 40#ú ‚(46km) 6Ø# 31 48#û#ú Diver 41 î# Safety f##ú Support #ì 56 #þ f##ì 46 ò##ì ‚ f# #ú #ú 50 To Surat 43 #ú #û 36 35 # 7 Thani (106km) #ú 7 To Sensi Paradise 57 #ú 37 To Ko Tao Bowling & Mini Golf (350m); 42 Resort (380m); #ú ÿ# 26 Charm Churee Castle (800m); ‚ Chalok Ban Kao (1.4km) Villa (575m) ‚ A B C D 575 MaeHat&SaireeBeach Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 30 Café Corner...... C2 1 ACE Marine Images...... D3 31 Café del Sol ...... B6 2 Apnea Total ...... C3 32 Chopper's Bar & Grill ...... C3 3 Ban's Diving School...... B4 33 Darawan...... C4 4 Big Blue Diving ...... B3 34 El Gringo ...... C3 5 Blue Immersion...... B4 35 Farango's...... B7 6 Crystal Dive ...... B6 36 Food Centre ...... B7 7 Davy Jones' Locker...... C3 37 Greasy Spoon ...... B7 8 Flying Trapeze Adventures ...... C3 38 Kanya ...... C2 9 Goodtime Adventures...... B4 39 Krua Thai ...... C3 10 Scuba Junction ...... B3 40 Pranee's Kitchen ...... B6 11 Shambhala...... C2 41 Safety Stop Pub...... A6 42 Tattoo Bar & Restaurant...... A7 ÿ Sleeping 43 Whitening ...... A7 12 Ban's Diving Resort ...... C4 44 ZanziBar ...... C3 KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI 13 Big Blue Resort ...... B2 45 Zest Coffee Lounge...... C3 14 Blue Wind...... B2 46 Zest Coffee Lounge...... B7 15 Bow Thong...... B1 Crystal Dive Resort...... (see 6) û Drinking 16 In Touch ...... B5 47 AC Party Pub...... B5 17 Koh Tao Backpackers ...... C3 48 Crystal Bar ...... B6 18 Koh Tao Cabana...... B1 49 Diza...... C3 19 Koh Tao Coral Grand Resort...... B1 50 Dragon Bar...... B7 20 Montra Resort & Spa...... B6 51 Fish Bowl ...... B4 21 Mr J Bungalow...... B6 52 Fizz ...... B3 22 Regal Resort...... B6 53 In Touch...... B5 23 Sairee Cottage ...... C3 54 Lotus Bar ...... B3 24 Seashell Resort...... C3 Maya Bar...... (see 47) KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS ACTIVITIES 25 Sunset Buri Resort ...... B2 55 Office Bar...... C3 26 Utopia Suites...... A7 þ Shopping ú Eating 56 Avalon ...... B7 27 Ally The Pancake Man...... B2 28 Barracuda Restaurant & Bar...... C3 ï Transport 29 Big Blue East ...... B3 57 Lederhosenbikes...... B7 Blue Wind Bakery...... (see 14) strapping on a snorkel instead of an air tank lar for its small sharks, Shark Island has is like eating spray cheese when there’s Cam- loads of fi sh (and ironically no sharks), Hin embert on the table. Orchestrating your own Wong is known for its crystalline waters, snorkelling adventure is simple, since the and Light House Point, in the north, off ers bays on the east coast have small bungalow a dazzling array of colourful sea anemones. operations off ering equipment rental for be- Dive schools will usually allow snorkellers tween 100B and 200B per day. on their vessels for a comparable price – but Most snorkel enthusiasts opt for the do-it- it’s only worth snorkelling at the shallower yourself approach on Ko Tao, which involves sites such as Japanese Gardens. Note that swimming out into the off shore bays or hir- dive boats visit the shallower sites in the ing a longtail boat to putter around further afternoons. out. Guided tours are also available and can be booked at any local travel agency. Tours Freediving range from 500B to 700B (usually includ- Over the last couple of years freediving (ex- ing gear, lunch and a guide/boat captain) ploring the sea using breath-holding tech- and stop at various snorkelling hotspots niques rather than scuba gear) has grown around the island. Laem Thian is popu- rapidly in popularity. Several small schools 576 have opened up across the island. We rec- noon boat service of the following day. Over- ommend the capable staff at Apnea Total night stays are arranged in or near the park. (Map p574 ; %08 7183 2321; www.apnea-total. Stop by Buddha View (p573 ) on Satur- com; Sairee Beach) who have earned several days for a free introduction into the world awards in the freediving world and possess of technical diving, or hit the waters with a special knack for easing newbies into this the Tech Thailand team on ‘wreck Wednes- heart-pounding sport. The student-teacher days’. If you aren’t diving with Buddha View ratio of three to one also ensures plenty of or Master Divers, your dive school of choice attention to safety. Also worth a special men- can easily help you get sorted. tion is Blue Immersion (Map p574 ; %08 7682 Underwater Photography & 1886; www.blue-immersion.com; Sairee Beach) run by friendly Akim, a martial arts expert Videography and a freediving pro – he is one of the fi rst If your wallet is already full of PADI certifi ca- people in the world to freedive below 100m. tion cards, consider renting an underwater Freediving prices are standardised across camera or enrolling in a marine videography the island as well – a 2½-day SSI beginner course. Many scuba schools hire profession- course will set you back 5500B. al videographers to fi lm Open Water certi- KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI fi cations, and if this piques your interests, Technical Diving & Cave Diving you could potentially earn a few bucks after Well-seasoned divers and hardcore Jacques completing a video internship. Your dive op- Cousteaus should contact Tech Thailand erator can put you in touch with any of the (www.techthailand.com) if they want to take half-dozen videography crews on the island. their underwater exploration to the next We recommend ACE Marine Images (Map level and try a technical dive. According to p574 ; %0 7745 7054; www.acemarineimages.com; PADI, tec diving, as it’s often known, is ‘div- Sairee Beach), one of Thailand’s leading un- ing other than conventional commercial or derwater videography studios. Their inter- recreational diving that takes divers beyond active eight-dive course (30,000B) includes recreational diving limits’. Technical diving an independent diver certifi cation and exceeds depths of 40m and requires stage one-on-one instruction in the editing room. decompressions, and a variety of gas mix- Deep Down Productions (%08 7133 4102;

GULF ISLANDS tures are often used in a single dive. www.deepdown-productions.com) and Oceans Several years ago, Tech Thailand’s old boat, Below (%08 6060 1863; www.oceansbelow.net) MS Trident, made a name for itself in the off er videography courses and internships diving community after successfully locating that are a bit easier on the pocketbook. dozens of previously undiscovered wrecks in the Gulf of Thailand. Its most famous discov- Other Activities ery was the USS Lagarto, an American naval o Flying Trapeze vessel that sank during WWII. The gulf has Adventures ACROBATICS long been an important trading route and (FTA; Map p574 ; %08 0696 9269; www.fl yingtra new wrecks are being discovered all the time, pezeadventures.com; Sairee Beach; h4-8pm, les- from old Chinese pottery wrecks to Japanese sons at 4pm, 5pm & 6pm) Find out if you’re a marus (merchant ships). In 2011 the Trident great catch while donning a pair of hot was purposefully sunk off the coast of Ko Tao pink tights during a one-hour group tra- to create an artifi cial reef. A miscalculation peze lesson (950B). Courses are taught by with the explosives has left the wreck a bit super-friendly Gemma and her posse of too deep for beginners. limber sidekicks, who take you from circus Recently, cave diving has taken Ko Tao neophyte to soaring savant in four jumps or by storm, and the most intrepid scuba buff s less. Bookings are best done over the phone, are lining up to make the half-day trek over or you can show up at one of the nightly to Khao Sok National Park (p611 ). Beneath demos, which start at 7.30pm. Participants the park’s main lake lurks an astonishing must be at least six years old. submarine world fi lled with hidden grottos, limestone crags and skulking catfi sh. In cer- Goodtime Adventures TOURS tain areas divers can swim near submerged (Map p574 ; %08 7275 3604; www.gtadventures. villages that were fl ooded in order to create com; Sairee Beach; hnoon-late) Although most a reservoir and dam. Most cave-diving trips activities on Ko Tao revolve around the depart from Ko Tao on the afternoon boat sea, the friendly crew at Goodtime Adven- service and return to the island on the after- tures off er a wide variety of land-based ac- 577 tivities to get the adrenaline pumping. Hike Note that Ko Tao is not Ko Samui – if you through the island’s jungly interior, swing are looking for impeccable service and per- from rock to rock during a climbing and fect fi ve-star standards you will not fi nd it abseiling session (from 2000B), or unleash here…yet. your inner daredevil during an afternoon of cliff jumping. Goodtime also off ers accred- SAIREE BEACH ited boating certifi cations, and at the time Giant Sairee is the longest and most devel- of research they were setting up a groovy oped strip on the island, with a string of zipline course on neighbouring Ko Nang dive operations, bungalows, travel agen- Yuan. The Goodtime offi ce, along the Sairee cies, minimarkets and internet cafes. The sands, doubles as a friendly cafe serving an narrow ‘yellow brick road’ stretches the en- assortment of international nibbles (includ- tire length of the beach (but watch out for ing dip coff ee!) motorcycles).

BUNGALOWS $ Shambhala YOGA Blue Wind % (Map p574 ; %08 4440 6755; Sairee Beach) Ko (Map p574; 0 7745 6116; bluewind_wa@yahoo. Tao’s only full-time yoga centre is housed com; bungalows 300-1000B; aW) Hidden within a clump of bodacious lodging options, Blue KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI in beautiful wooden săh·lah located on the GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI forested grounds of Blue Wind (see p 577) in Wind off ers a breath of fresh air from the Sairee Beach. The two-hour classes, led by high-intensity dive resorts strung along Sai- Kester, the energetic yogi, cost 300B. ree Beach. Sturdy bamboo huts are peppered along a dirt trail behind the beachside bakery. Ko Tao Bowling & Mini Golf BOWLING, MINIGOLF Large, tiled air-conditioned cabins are also (o ff Map p574 ; %0 7745 6316; hnoon-midnight) available, boasting hot showers and TVs. Located on the main road between Mae Hat and Chalok Ban Kao, Ko Tao Bowling Ban’s Diving Resort RESORT $$ & Mini Golf has several homemade bowling (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6466; www.amazingkohtao. lanes where the employees reset the pins af- com; r 500-2500B; aiWs) This dive-centric ter every frame (300B per hour). The 18-hole party palace off ers a wide range of quality minigolf course has a landmark theme – accommodation from basic backpacker digs putt your ball through Stonehenge or across to sleek hillside villas. Post-scuba chill ses- KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS the Golden Gate Bridge. sions happen on Ban’s prime slice of beach, SLEEPING or at one of the two swimming pools tucked 4 Sleeping within the strip of jungle between the two motel-like structures. Evenings are spent at If you are planning to dive while visiting Ko the Fish Bowl bar downing international Tao, your scuba operator will probably off er cuisine and ‘buckets’ in equal measure. you free or discounted accommodation to sweeten the deal. Some schools have on-site Place VILLA $$$ lodging, while others have deals with nearby (www.theplacekohtao.com; villas 4000-7000B) bungalows. It’s important to note that you Honeymooners will delight in this unique only receive your scuba-related discount on option – two private luxury villas nestled in the days you dive. So, for example, if you buy the leaf-clad hills with sweeping ocean views a 10-dive package, and decide to take a day down below. A private plunge pool comes off in the middle, your room rate will not be standard – naturally – and private chef serv- discounted on that evening. Also, a restful ices are available for those who choose to sleep is important before diving, so scope remain in their love nest instead of sliding out these ‘great room deals’ before saying down to Sairee for restaurant eats. yes – some of them are one ’roach away from being condemned. Ko Tao Cabana BUNGALOWS $$$ There are also many sleeping options (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6250; www.kohtaocabana. that have absolutely nothing to do with the com; bungalows 2600-11,800B; aiWs) This island’s diving culture. Ko Tao’s secluded prime piece of beachside property off ers eastern coves are dotted with stunning re- timber-framed villas and crinkled white treats that still off er a true getaway experi- adobe huts dotted along the boulder-strewn ence, but these can be diffi cult to reach due beach. Bric-a-brac cheers the colourful bun- to the island’s dismal network of roads. You galows – stone gnomes greet you with a can often call ahead of time and arrange to naughty smirk as you shower in the roofl ess be picked up from the pier in Mae Hat. bathrooms. The newly constructed private 578 villas are one of the more upscale options and thin palm trunks. Seashell welcomes on the island, though they’re a bit rough divers and nondivers alike. around the edges compared to the fi ve-star behemoths on Ko Samui. In Touch Resort BUNGALOWS $$ (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6514; bungalows 500-1200B; Big Blue Resort BUNGALOWS $ aW) Older bungalows are a mishmash (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6050; www.bigbluediving.com; of bamboo and dark wood, while several r 400-1000B; ai) This scuba-centric resort rounded air-con rooms have a cave theme – has a summer camp vibe – diving classes it’s all very Flintstones, except the shower dominate the daytime, while evenings are nozzle hasn’t been replaced with the trunk spent en masse, grabbing dinner or watch- of an elephant. ing fi re twirling. Both the basic fan bunga- lows and motel-style air-con rooms off er Koh Tao Backpackers HOSTEL $ little when it comes to views, but who has (Map p574 ; %08 8447 7921; www.kohtaobackpack the time to relax when there’s an ocean out ers.com; dm 300B; aW) No-frills bunk beds there to explore? for serious penny pinchers.

BUNGALOWS $$ MAE HAT KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Sairee Cottage All ferry arrivals pull into the pier at the (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6126; saireecottage@hotmail. busy village of Mae Hat. Accommodation is com; bungalows 400-1500B;a) The air-con bungalows are hard to miss since they’ve spread throughout, but the more charming been painted in various hues of fuchsia. Low options extend in both directions along the prices mean low vacancy rates – so arrive sandy beach. early to score one of the brick huts facing North of the Pier out onto a grassy knoll. Regal Resort RESORT $$ % Bow Thong BUNGALOWS $ (Map p574; 0 7745 6007; www.kohtaoregal.com; (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6266; bungalows from 600B; r 1500-4900B; aiWs) Home to the most aWs) A member of the quieter northern inviting swimming pool on the island, spar- section of silky Sairee Beach, Bow Thong has kling white Regal proudly sits along the a cluster of comfortable bungalows, if you’re sands of Mae Hat. Set slightly away from the

GULF ISLANDS looking to be near the waves and aren’t af- pier, this is a solid option for travellers seek- fi liated with a dive school. ing a sprinkle of air-con and ocean views from their balcony. Sunset Buri Resort BUNGALOWS $$ (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6266; bungalows 700-2500B; Crystal Dive Resort BUNGALOWS $$ aiWs) A long beach-bound path is stud- (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6107; www.crystaldive.com; ded with beautiful white bungalows featur- bungalows 800-1500B; as) The bungalow ing enormous windows and fl amboyant and motel-style accommodation at Crystal temple-like roofi ng. The kidney-shaped pool is reserved for its divers, and prices drop is a big hit, as are the large beach recliners signifi cantly for those taking courses. Guests sprinkled around the resort. can take a dip in the refreshing pool when it isn’t overfl owing with bubble-blowing new- Koh Tao Coral Grand Resort BUNGALOWS $$$ bie divers. (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6431; www.kohtaocoral.com; bungalows 3350-6950B; aWs) The plethora Montra Resort & Spa RESORT $$$ of pink facades at this family-friendly op- (Map p574 ; %0 7745 7057; www.kohtaomontra. tion feels a bit like Barbie’s dream Thai com; r 4000-12,800B; aiWs) A newer ad- beach-house. Cottage interiors are coated dress virtually at the Mae Hat pier, Montra is in cheery primary colours framed by white an upmarket aff air with all the modern bells truncated beams while pricier digs have a and whistles. The hotel structure is rather more distinctive Thai fl avour, boasting dark imposing when compared to the scatter of lacquered mouldings and gold-foiled art. humble bungalows next door.

Seashell Resort BUNGALOWS $$ Mr J Bungalow BUNGALOWS $ (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6299; www.seashell-resort. (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6066; bungalows 250-1000B) com; bungalows 450-3800B; aW) Several bun- Even though Mr J tried to charge us 50B galows have ocean views from their porches for his business card, we still think he’s well (a rarity in Sairee), while others sit in a well- worth the visit. The eccentric owner entan- maintained garden of colourful vegetation gles guests in a philosophical web while 579 tending to his fl ock of decent bungalows. tually straddles two tiny beaches on a craggy Ask him about reincarnation if you want to cape about halfway between Mae Hat and hear some particularly twisted conjectures. Chalok Ban Kao.

South of the Pier CHALOK BAN KAO Charm Churee Villa RESORT $$$ Ao Chalok, about 1.7km south of Mae Hat (o ff Map p574 ; %0 7745 6393; www.charmchureevil by road, is the third-largest concentration la.com; bungalows 3700-18,700B; ais) Tucked of accommodation on Ko Tao, but can feel a gently under sky-scraping palms, the luxuri- lot more crowded because the beach is sig- ant villas of Charm Churee are dedicated to nifi cantly smaller than Sairee and Mae Hat. the fl amboyant spoils of the Far East. Gold- The beach itself isn’t tops as low tides are foiled oriental demigods pose in arabesque often muddy. positions, with bejewelled eyes frozen in a Zen-like trance. Staircases, chiselled into the Ko Tao Resort RESORT $$$ rock face, dribble down a palmed slope re- ( %0 7745 6133; www.kotaoresort.com; r & bun- vealing teak huts strewn across smoky boul- galows from 2500B; aiWs) The entrance ders. The villas’ unobstructed views of the is a throwback to the days when taste and architecture weren’t particularly synony- KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI swishing indigo waters are charming. GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI mous (the ’70s perhaps?), but inside every- Sensi Paradise Resort RESORT $$$ thing’s thoroughly modern and the facilities (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6244; www.sensiparadise. themselves fi t the true defi nition of a resort. com; bungalows 2100-700B; aWs) There are Rooms are split between ‘pool side’ and one too many geckos in the bathroom to ‘paradise zone’ – all are well stocked, water call this place ‘natural chic’, but if you like sports equipment is on off er, and there are to be at one with nature then you’ll appreci- several bars primed to serve an assortment ate that these rustic cottages are somehow of fruity cocktails. ‘Chalok Harbour’, a new simultaneously upscale. Friendly caretakers addition, features an extra dining option and several airy teak săh·lah add an extra and additional chaise seating along a spa- element of charm. cious pier.

Utopia Suites APARTMENTS $$ Chintakiri Resort RESORT $$$ KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS (Map p574 ; %0 7745 6729; r/ste from 600/2000B, ( %0 7745 6133; www.chintakiri.com; r & bungalows SLEEPING monthly from 20,000B) Utopia is located in the 2900-4000B; ais) Perched high over the charming fi shing village, just a stone’s throw gulf waters overlooking Chalok Ban Kao, from the pier. The beachside apartment- Chintakiri is one of Ko Tao’s newer luxury style accommodation is perfect for families additions as the island furtively creeps up- and small groups. Ask about discounts for market. Rooms are spread around the in- extended stays. land jungle, and sport crisp white walls with lacquered fi nishing. The following sleeping spots are located fur- ther south and can be accessed by a quick Buddha View Dive Resort BUNGALOWS $$ ride in a boat taxi: ( %0 7745 6074; www.buddhaview-diving.com; r 300-1500B; a) Like the other large diving Sai Thong Resort BUNGALOWS $$ operations on the island, Buddha View of- ( %0 7745 6868; Hat Sai Nuan; bungalows 400- fers its divers discounted on-site digs in 900B; a) As the rush of Mae Hat dwindles a super-social atmosphere. If you plan on away along the island’s southwest shore, Sai staying a while, ask about the ‘Divers Village’ Thong emerges along sandy Hat Sai Nuan. across the street, which off ers basic accom- Bungalows, in various incarnations of weav- modation from around 4000B per month. ing and wood, have colourful porch ham- mocks and palm-fi lled vistas. Guests fre- New Heaven Resort BUNGALOWS $$ quent the restaurant’s relaxing sun deck – a ( %0 7745 6422; [email protected]; r & favourite spot for locals too. bungalows 1200-3900B) Just beyond the clut- ter of Chalok Ban Kao, New Heaven deliv- Tao Thong Villa BUNGALOWS $ ers colourful huts perched over impossibly ( %0 7745 6078; Ao Sai Nuan; bungalows from clear waters. A steep path of chiselled stone 500B) Very popular with long-termers seek- tumbles down the shrubby rock face reveal- ing peace and quiet, these funky, no-frills ing views ripped straight from the pages of bungalows have killer views. Tao Thong ac- National Geographic. 580 Freedom Beach BUNGALOWS $ and watch schools of black sardines slide ( %0 7745 6596; bungalows 400-1500B; a) On through the cerulean water. its own secluded beach at the eastern end of Ao Chalok, Freedom feels like a clas- View Rock BUNGALOWS $ sic backpacker haunt, although there’s a ( %0 7745 6548/9; [email protected]; bun- variety of accommodation to suit various galows 300-400B) When coming down the humble budgets. The string of bungalows dirt road into Hin Wong, follow the signs (from wooden shacks to sturdier huts with as they lead you north of Hin Wong Bun- air-con) links the breezy seaside bar to the galows. View Rock is precisely that: views resort’s restaurant high on the cliff . and rocks; the hodgepodge of wooden huts, which looks like a secluded fi shing village, is Viewpoint Resort BUNGALOWS $$ built into the steep crags off ering stunning ( %0 7745 6666; www.kohtaoviewpoint.com; bun- views of the bay. galows 800-1300B) A hot-shot architect from Bangkok allegedly designed this friendly, Tanote Bay (Ao Tanot) family-run retreat at the end of civilisation. Tanote Bay is more populated than some of Cottages are spartan but airy and well main- the other eastern coves, but it’s still rather

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI tained. Some have partial sea views; others quiet and picturesque. It is the only bay quietly sit in a gorgeous hillside garden that on the east coast that is accessible by a de- thrums with cicadas at night. cent road. Discounted taxis (around 100B) bounce back and forth between Tanote Bay Also worth a look: and Mae Hat; ask at your resort for a time- table. Tropicana GUEST HOUSE $ ( %0 7745 6167; www.koh-tao-tropicana-resort.com; Poseidon BUNGALOWS $ r from 400) Low-rise hotel units peppered ( %0 7745 6735; [email protected]; across a garden campus that provide fl eet- bungalows from 300B) Poseidon keeps the tra- ing glimpses of the ocean between fanned dition of the budget bamboo bungalow alive fronds and spiky palms. with a dozen basic-but-sleepable huts scat- tered near the sand. JP Resort GUEST HOUSE $

GULF ISLANDS ( %0 7745 6099; r from 400B) A colourful me- Family Tanote BUNGALOWS $$ nagerie of prim motel-style rooms stacked ( %0 7745 6757; bungalows 700-3500) As the on a small scrap of jungle across the street name suggests, this scatter of hillside bunga- from the sea. lows is run by a local family who take pride in providing comfy digs to solitude seekers. EAST COAST BEACHES Strap on a snorkel mask and swim around The serene eastern coast is, without a doubt, with the fi sh at your doorstep, or climb up to one of the best places in the region to live the restaurant for a tasty meal and pleasant out your island paradise fantasies. The views views of the bay. are stunning; beaches are silent, yet all of your creature comforts are 10 minutes away. Ao Leuk & Ao Thian Ok Accommodation along this coast is organ- Jamahkiri Resort & Spa RESORT $$$ ised from north to south. ( %0 7745 6400; www.jamahkiri.com; bungalows 6900-13,900B) The fl amboyant decor at this Hin Wong whitewashed estate is decidedly focused A sandy beach has been swapped for a around tribal imagery. Wooden gargoyle boulder-strewn coast, but the water is crys- masks and stone fertility goddesses abound tal clear. The road to Hin Wong is paved in amid swirling mosaics and multi-armed parts, but sudden sand pits and steep hills statues. Feral hoots of distant monkeys con- can toss you off your motorbike. fi rm the overarching jungle theme, as do the thatched roofs and tiki-torched soirees. The Hin Wong Bungalows BUNGALOWS $ resort’s seemingly infi nite number of stone ( %0 7745 6006; bungalows from 300B) Pleas- stairways can be a pain, so it’s a good thing ant wooden huts are scattered across vast Ko Tao’s most luxurious spa is located on the expanses of untamed tropical terrain – it premises. all feels a bit like Gilligan’s Island (minus the millionaire castaways). A rickety dock, KO NANG YUAN jutting out just beyond the breezy restau- Photogenic Ko Nang Yuan, just off the coast rant, is the perfect place to dangle your legs of Ko Tao, is easily accessible by the Lom- 581 prayah catamaran, and by water taxis that a mojito and head next door to watch the depart from Mae Hat and Sairee. owner’s boyfriend perform in the ladyboy cabaret. Ko Nangyuan Dive Resort BUNGALOWS $$$ ( %0 7745 6088; www.nangyuan.com; bungalows ZanziBar SANDWICHES $ 1200-9000B; aW) Although the obligatory (Map p574 ; sandwiches 90-140B; hbreakfast, lunch 100B tax to access the island is a bit off - & dinner) The island’s outpost of sandwich putting (as is the 100B water taxi ride each yuppie-dom slathers a mix of unpronounce- way), Nangyuan Dive Resort is nonetheless able condiments betwixt two slices of who- a charming place to stay. The rugged col- legrain bread. lection of wood and aluminium bungalows winds its way across three -hat-like Blue Wind Bakery INTERNATIONAL $ conical islands connected by an idyllic beige (Map p574 ; mains 50-120B; hbreakfast, lunch & sandbar. The resort also boasts the best res- dinner) This beachside shanty dishes out taurant on the island, but then again, it’s the Thai favourites, Western confections and only place to eat… freshly blended fruit juices. Enjoy your thick fruit smoothie and fl aky pastry while reclin- ing on tattered triangular pillows. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI 5 Eating GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI With super-sized Samui lurking on the - Chopper’s Bar & Grill INTERNATIONAL $$ zon, it’s hard to believe that quaint little Ko (Map p574 ; dishes 60-200B; hbreakfast, lunch & Tao holds its own in the gastronomy catego- dinner) So popular that it’s become a local ry. Most resorts and dive operators off er on- landmark, Chopper’s is a two-storey hang- site dining, and stand-alone establishments out where divers and travellers can widen are multiplying at lightning speed in Sairee their beer belly. There’s live music, sports on Beach and Mae Hat. The diverse popula- the big-screen TVs, billiards and a cinema tion of divers has spawned a broad range room. Friday nights are particularly popular; of international cuisine, including Mexican, the drinks are ‘two for one’, and dishes are French, Italian, Indian and Japanese. On our half-priced as well. Cheers for scored goals quest to fi nd the tastiest Thai fare on the is- are interspersed with exaggerated chatter land, we discovered, not surprisingly, that about creatures seen on the day’s dive. KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS our favourite local meals were being dished EATING out at small, unnamed restaurants on the Kanya THAI $ side of the road. (Map p574 ; mains 60-130B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Tucked at the back of Sairee Village SAIREE BEACH on the road to Hin Wong, four-table Kanya Darawan INTERNATIONAL $$ serves an assortment of international dish- (Map p574 ; mains 160-400B; hlunch & dinner) es, but you’ll be missing out if you stray from Like a top-end dining venue plucked from the delectable array of home-cooked Thai the posh shores of Samui nearby, regal classics – the đôm yam Ъlah is divine. Darawan is the island’s newest place to take a date. Perched atop the trees at the back of Café Corner CAFE $$ Ban’s sprawling resort, the yawning outdoor (Map p574 ; snacks & mains 30-120B; hbreakfast balcony off ers beautiful views of the setting & lunch) Prime real estate, mod furnishings, sun (come around 6pm). Designer lighting, and tasty iced coff ees have made Café Cor- effi cient waiters and a tasty ‘wagyu’ burger ner a Sairee staple over the last few years. seal the deal. Swing by at 5pm to stock up for tomorrow morning’s breakfast; the scrumptious baked Barracuda Restaurant breads are buy-one-get-one-free before be- & Bar ASIAN FUSION $$ ing tossed at sunset. (Map p574 ; mains 180-380B; hdinner) A won- derful addition to Ko Tao’s ever-expanding Big Blue East THAI, INTERNATIONAL $$ dining scene, Barracuda off ers a refi ned se- (Map p574 ; dishes 70-250B; hbreakfast, lunch & lection of seafood and gourmet bites. The dinner) Big Blue Resort’s busy chow house, owner, a masterful chef with many years located about 2m from the crashing tide, in the biz, makes an earnest attempt to use dispatches an assortment of Thai and in- only locally sourced ingredients to enhance ternational eats, including tasty individual his fusion faves. The seafood platter is a pizzas. The joint fi lls up around sunset with steal at 395B – wash down your meal with divers chuckling at the daily dive bloopers shown on the big-screen TV. 582 Ally the Pancake Man CREPES $ Zest – home to the best cup of joe on the (Map p574 ; pancakes from 20-40B; hlunch & din- island. Idlers can nibble on ciabatta sand- ner) Stop by the 7-Eleven beside Big Blue Re- wiches or sticky confections while nursing sort to check out Ally The Pancake Man as their creamy caff e latte. There’s a second he dances around – like an Italian chef mak- branch in Sairee, although we prefer this ing pizza – while cooking your tasty snack. location. The ‘banana Nutella’ is a fave. Safety Stop Pub INTERNATIONAL $ Krua Thai THAI $ (Map p574 ; mains 60-250B; hbreakfast, lunch & (Map p574 ; dishes 50-120B; hlunch & dinner) dinner; W) A haven for homesick Brits, this Popular with the tourists who want their pier-side restaurant and bar feels like a food ‘faráng spicy’ rather than ‘Thai spicy’, tropical beer garden. Stop by on Sundays to Krua Thai off ers a large assortment of clas- stuff your face with an endless supply of bar- sic favourites served in a well-maintained becued goodness, and surprisingly the Thai storefront. dishes aren’t half bad!

El Gringo MEXICAN $$ Pranee’s Kitchen THAI $ (Map p574 ; dishes 80-150B; hbreakfast, lunch h KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI (Map p574; dishes 50-120B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) As if there aren’t already enough & dinner; W) An old Mae Hat fave, Pranee’s nicknames for in Thailand. serves scrumptious curries and other Thai The self-proclaimed ‘funky Mexican joint’ treats in an open-air pavilion sprinkled with slings burritos of questionable authenticity lounging pillows, wooden tables and TVs. in both Sairee Beach and Mae Hat. Delivery English movies (with hilariously incorrect available. subtitles) are shown nightly at 6pm.

MAE HAT Food Centre THAI $ (Map p 574 ; mains from 30B; hbreakfast, lunch & Whitening INTERNATIONAL $$ o dinner) An unceremonious gathering of hot h Although (Map p574; dishes 160-300B; dinner) tin food stalls, Food Centre – as it’s come to it looks like a pile of forgotten driftwood be known – lures lunching locals with veri- during the day, this beachy spot falls some- table smoke signals rising up from the con-

GULF ISLANDS where between being a restaurant and being crete parking lot abutting Mae Hat’s petrol a chic seaside bar – foodies will appreciate station. You’ll fi nd some of the island’s best the tasty twists on indigenous and inter- papaya salad here. national dishes while beertotalers will love the beachy, bleached-white atmosphere that Greasy Spoon BREAKFAST $ hums with gentle lounge music. Dine amid (Map p574 ; English breakfast 120B; hbreakfast & dangling white Christmas lights while keep- lunch) Although completely devoid of char- ing your bare feet tucked into the sand. This acter, Greasy Spoon stays true to its name is the top spot on the island for a celebratory off ering a variety of heart-clogging break- dinner. And the best part? It’s comparatively fast treats: eggs, sausage, stewed vegies and easy on the wallet. chips (their speciality) that’ll bring a tear to any Brit’s eye. Café del Sol INTERNATIONAL $$ (Map p574 ; dishes 70-320B; hbreakfast, lunch & Tattoo Bar & Restaurant BURGERS $$ dinner; iW) Even the pickiest eater will be (Map p574 ; mains 150B) Just 30m south of the satisfi ed with the menu’s expansive selection Whitening (at the edge of the fi shing vil- of ‘world cuisine’. Located just steps away lage), Tattoo is a casual aff air with a cosy from the pier, this is our favourite break- area for TV watching. If you’re hungry, try fast spot on the island – go for the ‘Del Sol the massive Aussie burger, homemade meat breakfast’ (delicious fruit salad, yoghurt and pies and sausage rolls. coff ee) with a scrumptious spinach omelette on the side. Lunch and dinner dishes range Farango’s PIZZA $$ from hearty pepper hamburgers to home- (Map p574 ; dishes 80-230B; hlunch & dinner) Ko made pasta, though prices tend to be quite Tao’s fi rst faràng restaurant spins tasty piz- infl ated. zas and other signature Italian fare. Free delivery. There’s a second location on the Zest Coffee Lounge CAFE $ outskirts of Sairee Village. (Map p574 ; dishes 70-190B; hbreakfast & lunch; W) Indulge in the street-cafe lifestyle at 583 Beach in Chalok Bak Kao – that attract LEARNING THE LOCAL swarms of travellers and expats alike. It’s LINGO well worth stopping by even if you aren’t a diver. Fliers detailing upcoming parties are Due to the steady infl ux of international posted on various trees and walls along the visitors, English is spoken just about island’s west coast (check the two 7-Elevens everywhere; however, the locals on this in Sairee). Also keep an eye out for posters scuba-savvy island regularly incorpo- touting ‘jungle parties’ held on nondescript rate diving sign-language symbols into patches of scrubby jungle in the centre of common parlance – especially at the the island. bars. In addition to the following options, sev- Here are a few gestures to get you eral places already reviewed (p581 ), such as started: Choppers and Safety Stop Pub, double as » I’m OK Make a fist and tap the top great hang-out joints for a well-deserved of your head twice post-dive beer. » Cool Bring together the tips of your Just remember: don’t drink and dive. index finger and thumb forming an ‘O’ KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Castle CLUB GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI » I’m finished/I’m ready to go Hold (o ff Map p574 ; www.thecastlekohtao.com; Mae Hat) your hand tight like a karate chop and Located along the main road between Mae quickly swing it back and forth per- Hat and Chalok Ban Kao, the Castle has pendicular to your neck. quickly positioned itself as the most loved party venue on the island, luring an array of local and international DJs to its triad of CHALOK BAN KAO parties each month. Long Pae STEAKHOUSE $$$ (mains 100-430B; hdinner) Situated off the Fizz BAR radar from most of the island’s tourist traf- (Map p574 ; Sairee Beach) Recline on mattress- fi c, ‘Uncle Pae’ sits on a scruff y patch of hilly sized pillows and enjoy designer cocktails jungle with distant views of the sea down while listening to Moby, or Enya, mixed with below. The speciality here is steak, which hypnotic gushes of the rolling tide. KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS goes oh-so well with a generous smattering DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT of pan-Asian appetisers. Lotus Bar BAR (Map p574 ; Sairee Beach) Lotus is the de facto New Heaven Restaurant INTERNATIONAL $$ late-night hang-out spot along the northern (mains 60-350B; hlunch & dinner) The best part end of Sairee. Muscular fi re twirlers toss about New Heaven Restaurant is the awe- around fl aming batons, and the drinks are inducing view of Shark Bay (Ao Thian Ok) so large there should be a lifeguard on duty. under the lazy afternoon moon. The tur- quoise waters below are so translucent that Dragon Bar LOUNGE This bar caters to those the curving reef is easily visible from your (Map p574; Mae Hat) seeking snazzy, cutting-edge surroundings. seat. The menu is largely international, and There is a happening ‘communist chic’ retro there are nap-worthy cushions tucked under styling throughout, and everything’s dimly each low-rise table. lit, moody and relaxing. Dragon Bar is ru- Koppee CAFE $$ moured to have the best cocktails on the (mains 60-180B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) A island. clone of some of the sleeker cafes in Mae Hat and Sairee, white-washed Koppee serves Office Bar BAR With graffi ti proud- scrumptious international fare including a (Map p574; Sairee Beach) ly boasting ‘No Gaga, and no Black Eyed variety of home-baked desserts. F*^#*# Peas’, this hexagonal hut lures regu- lars with grunge beats and rickety wooden Drinking & Entertainment 6 seats. After diving, Ko Tao’s favourite pastime is drinking, and there’s defi nitely no short- Diza BAR age of places to get tanked. In fact, the is- (Map p574 ; Sairee Beach) Once a tatty shack that land’s three biggest dive centres each have blasted music as it sold pirated DVDs, Diza bumpin’ bars – Fish Bowl (Map p574 ) , Crys- has evolved into a casual hang-out at the tal Bar (Map p574 ) and Buddha On The crossroads of Sairee Village. Locals lounge 584 on plastic chairs as they slurp their beer and agencies. The larger dive schools on the island people-watch. usually have a wireless connection available for Clumped at the southern end of Sairee laptop-toting travellers. Beach, AC Party Pub (Map p574 ), In Touch Medical Services (Map p574 ) and Maya Bar (Map p574 ) take turns reeling in the partiers throughout the All divers are required to sign a medical waiver before exploring the sea. If you have any medical week. condition that might hinder your ability to dive (including mild asthma), you will be asked to get 7 Shopping medical clearance from a doctor on Ko Tao. If Although most items are cheap when com- you’re unsure about whether or not you are fi t to pared to prices back home, diving equip- dive, consider seeing a doctor before your trip ment is a big exception to the rule. On Ko as there are no offi cial hospitals on the island, Tao you’ll be paying Western prices plus and the number of qualifi ed medical profession- shipping plus commission on each item als is limited. Also, make sure your traveller’s (even with ‘discounts’) so it’s better to do insurance covers scuba diving. On-island medi- your scuba shopping at home or on your cal ‘consultations’ (and we use that term very lightly) cost 300B. There are several walk-in computer. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI clinics and mini-hospitals scattered around Mae If you’re having trouble scrubbing the sea Hat and Sairee. All serious medical needs should salt out of your hair, stop by Avalon (Map be dealt with on Ko Samui. If you are diving, ask p574 ; Mae Hat; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) for some your outfi tter to point you in the proper direction locally made (and ecofriendly) body and hair of medical advice. care products. Diver Safety Support (Map p 574 ;%08 1083 0533; [email protected]; Mae Hat; hon 8 Information call 24hr) Has a temporary hyperbaric chamber and offers emergency evacuation services. The ubiquitous Koh Tao Info booklet lists loads of businesses on the island and goes into some Money detail about the island’s history, culture and There are 24-hour ATMs at the island’s 7-Elev- social issues. ens. There’s also a cluster of ATMs orbiting Dangers & Annoyances the ferry docks at Mae Hat. There is a money

GULF ISLANDS exchange window at Mae Hat’s pier and a second There’s nothing more annoying than enrolling in location near Choppers in Sairee. There are a diving course with your friends and then hav- several banks near the post offi ce in Mae Hat, at ing to drop out because you scraped your knee the far end of town along the island’s main inland in a motorcycle accident. The roads on Ko Tao road. They are usually open from 9am to 4pm are horrendous, save the main drag connecting on weekdays. Almost all dive schools accept Sairee Beach to Chalok Ban Kao. While hiring a credit cards, however there is usually a 3% or moped is extremely convenient, this is not the 4% handling fee. place to learn how to drive. The island is rife with abrupt hills and sudden sand pits along gravel Post trails. Even if you escape unscathed from a rid- Post office (Map p 574 ;%0 7745 6170; h9am- ing experience, scamming bike shops may claim 5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) A 10- to 15-minute that you damaged your rental and will try to walk from the pier; at the corner of Ko Tao’s extort you for some serious cash. main inner-island road and Mae Hat’s ‘down Travellers should also be aware that mosquito- road’. borne dengue fever (and a similar but less- severe cousin) is a real and serious threat. The Tourist Information virus can spread quickly due to tightly packed There’s no government-run TAT office on tourist areas and the small size of the island. Ko Tao. Transportation and accommodation bookings can be made at most dive shops or Emergency at any of the numerous travel agencies, all of Police station (Map p 574 ;%0 7745 6631) which take a small commission on services Between Mae Hat and Sairee Beach along the rendered. rutty portion of the beachside road. Bon Voyage (Sairee Beach) Run by the kind Ms Jai, a Ko Tao native, this is a great place to Internet Access make your transport connections and update Rates are generally 2B per minute, with a 20B your blog beneath cool blasts of air-con. It’s minimum and discounts if you log on for one located along the road connecting Sairee Beach hour or longer. You may fi nd, however, that and Hin Wong. certain useful tourism websites have been fi rewalled at internet cafes affi liated with travel 585 Websites Ko Samui Koh Tao Online (www.kohtaoonline.com) The Lomprayah catamaran off ers a twice-daily An online version of the handy Koh Tao Info service, leaving Ko Tao at 9.30am and 3pm and booklet. arriving on Samui around 11.30am and 4.40pm. The Seatran Discovery Ferry off ers an identical 8 Getting There & Away service. The Songserm Express Boat departs daily at 10am and arrives on Samui at 12.45pm. As always, the cost and departure times are Hotel pick-ups are included in the price. subject to change. Rough waves are known to cancel ferries between the months of October Surat Thani & the Andaman Coast and December. When the waters are choppy If you are heading to the Andaman Coast and do we recommend taking the Seatran rather than not want to stop on Ko Pha-Ngan or Ko Samui the Lomprayah catamaran if you are prone to along the way, there are two routes you can seasickness. The catamarans ride the swell, take. The fi rst, and more common, approach is whereas the Seatran cuts through the currents through Surat Thani. First, board a Surat-bound as it crosses the sea. Note that we highly advise boat (the Songserm or the night ferry, unless purchasing your boat tickets several days in you want to change ships) then transfer to a bus advance if you are accessing Ko Tao from Ko upon arrival. The night boat leaves Ko Tao at KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Pha-Ngan after the Full Moon Party. GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI 8.30pm. Daily buses to the Songserm Express Bangkok, Hua Hin & Chumphon Boat depart from Surat Thani at 8am and arrive at 2.30pm. Return passengers leave Ko Tao at Lomprayah’s new air service, Solar Air (www. 10am and arrive in Surat Thani at 4.30pm. lomprayah.com), jets passengers from Bang- kok’s Don Muang airport to Chumphon once The second option is to take a ferry to Chum- daily in each direction from Monday to Saturday. phon on the mainland and then switch to a bus or Upon arriving in Chumphon, travellers can make train bound for the provinces further south. a seamless transfer to the catamaran service bound for Ko Tao. 8 Getting Around Bus-boat package tickets from Bangkok are Sŏrng·tăa·ou In Mae Hat sŏrng·tăa·ou, pick-up available from travel agencies all over Bang- trucks and motorbikes crowd around the pier as kok and the south. Buses switch to boats in passengers alight. If you’re a solo traveller, you Chumphon and Bangkok-bound passengers can will pay 100B to get to Sairee Beach or Chalok choose to disembark in Hua Hin (for the same KO TAOGULFKO ISLANDS Ban Kao. Groups of two or more will pay 50B 8 price as the Ko Tao–Bangkok ticket). each. Rides from Sairee to Chalok Ban Kao cost If you are planning to travel through the night, 80B per person, or 150B for solo tourists. These the train’s couchettes are a much more comfort- prices are rarely negotiable, and passengers will able option than the bus. Travellers can plan be expected to wait until their taxi is full unless their own journey by taking a boat to Chumphon, they want to pay an additional 200B to 300B. then making their way to Chumphon’s town Prices double for trips to the east coast, and the centre to catch a train up to Bangkok (or any drivers will raise the prices when rain makes the town along the upper southern gulf); likewise in roads harder to negotiate. If you know where the opposite direction. you intend to stay, we highly recommend calling From Ko Tao, the high-speed catamaran ahead to arrange a pick up. Many dive schools departs for Chumphon at 10.15am and 2.45pm off er free pick-ups and transfers as well. (1½ hours), the Seatran leaves the island at 4pm Motorbikes Renting a motorcycle is a danger- (two hours), and a Songserm fast boat makes ous endeavour (see Dangers & Annoyances, the same journey at 2.30pm (three hours). There opposite) if you’re not sticking to the main, well- may be fewer departures if the swells are high. paved roads. Daily rental rates begin at 150B for There’s also a midnight boat from Chumphon a scooter. Larger bikes start at 350B. Discounts arriving early in the morning. It returns from Ko are available for weekly and monthly rentals. Try Tao at 11pm. Lederhosenbikes (Map p 574 ; %08 1752 8994; www.lederhosenbikes.com; Mae Hat; h8.30am- Ko Pha-Ngan 6pm Mon-Sat). Do not rent all-terrrain-vehicles The Lomprayah catamaran off ers a twice-daily (ATVs) or jet skis – they are unsafe. service, leaving Ko Tao at 9.30am and 3pm and Water taxis Boat taxis depart from Mae Hat, arriving on Ko Pha-Ngan around 10.50am and Chalok Ban Kao and the northern part of Sairee 4.10pm. The Seatran Discovery Ferry off ers an Beach (near Vibe Bar). Boat rides to Ko Nang identical service. The Songserm Express Boat Yuan will set you back at least 100B. Long-tail departs daily at 10am and arrives on Ko Pan- boats can be chartered for around 1500B per Ngan at 11.30am. Hotel pick-ups are included in day, depending on the number of passengers the price. carried. 586 ourful coral gardens and spotting banded Ang Thong Marine sea snakes and turtles. Soft powder beaches National line Ko Tai Plao, Ko Wuakantang and Ko Hintap. Park อทยานแหุ งชาต หมิ เกาะอู างทอง The 40-some jagged jungle islands of Ang T Tours Thong Marine National Park stretch across The best way to experience Ang Thong is by the cerulean sea like a shattered emerald taking one of many guided tours departing necklace – each piece a virgin realm featur- from Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan. The tours ing sheer limestone cliff s, hidden lagoons usually include lunch, snorkelling equip- and perfect peach-coloured sands. These ment, hotel transfers and (with fi ngers dream-inducing islets inspired Alex Gar- crossed) a knowledgeable guide. If you’re land’s cult classic The Beach, about dope- staying in luxury accommodation, there’s dabbling backpackers. a good chance that your resort has a pri- February, March and April are the best vate boat for providing group tours. Some months to visit this ethereal preserve of midrange and budget places also have their greens and blues; crashing monsoon waves own boats, and if not, they can easily set KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI means that the park is almost always closed you up with a general tour operator. Dive during November and December. centres on Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan of- fer scuba trips to the park, although Ang 1 Sights Thong doesn’t off er the world-class diving Every tour stops at the park’s head offi ce on that can be found around Ko Tao and Ko Ko Wua Talap, the largest island in the ar- Pha-Ngan. chipelago. The island’s viewpoint might just Due to the tumultuous petrol prices, tour be the most stunning vista in all of Thailand. companies tend to come and go like the From the top, visitors will have sweeping wind. Ask at your accommodation for a list views of the jagged islands nearby as they of current operators. burst through the placid turquoise water in easily anthropomorphised formations. 4 Sleeping The trek to the lookout is an arduous 450m Ang Thong does not have any resorts; how- GULF ISLANDS trail that takes roughly an hour to complete. ever, on Ko Wua Talap the national park has Hikers should wear sturdy shoes and walk set up fi ve bungalows, each housing between slowly on the sharp outcrops of limestone. two and eight guests. Campers are also al- A second trail leads to Tham Bua Bok, a lowed to pitch a tent in certain designated cavern with lotus-shaped stalagmites and zones. Advance reservations can be made stalactites. with the National Parks Services (%0 7728 The Emerald Sea (also called the In- 6025; www.dnp.go.th; bungalows 500-1400B). On- ner Sea) on Ko Mae Ko is another popular line bookings are possible, although custom- destination. This large lake in the middle ers must forward a bank deposit within two of the island spans an impressive 250m by days of making the reservation. 350m and has an ethereal minty tint. You can look but you can’t touch; the lagoon Getting There & Around is strictly off -limits to the unclean human 8 The best way to reach the park is to catch a body. A second dramatic viewpoint can be found at the top of a series of staircases private day-tour from Ko Samui or Ko Pha- nearby. Ngan (located 28km and 32km away, respec- The naturally occurring stone arches on tively). The islands sit between Samui and the main pier at Don Sak; however, there are Ko Samsao and Ko Tai Plao are visible dur- ing seasonal tides and weather conditions. no ferries that stop off along the way. Because the sea is quite shallow around the The park offi cially has an admission fee island chain, reaching a maximum depth of (adult/child 400/200B), although it should 10m, extensive coral reefs have not devel- be included in the price of every tour (ask oped, except in a few protected pockets on your operator if you are unsure). Private the southwest and northeast sides. There’s boat charters are also another possibility, al- a shallow near Ko Tai Plao and Ko though high petrol prices will make the trip Samsao that has decent but not excellent quite expensive. snorkelling. There are also several novice dives for exploring shallow caves and col- 587 ture docks for the daily night boats to the islands, a seafood market at Pak Nam Tapi, and an afternoon Sunday market (h4-9pm) Surat Thani อาเภอเมํ องสื ราษฏรุ ธาน ี near the TAT offi ce. During the day many food stalls near the downtown bus terminal POP 128,990 Known in Thai as ‘City of Good People’, Su- sell kôw gài òp (marinated baked chicken rat Thani was once the seat of the ancient on rice). Srivijaya empire. Today, this busy junction Crossroads Restaurant INTERNATIONAL $$ has become a transport hub that indiscrimi- (Bypass Rd; dishes 50-200B; hlunch & dinner) nately moves cargo and people around the Located southwest of Surat across from the country. Travellers rarely linger here as they Tesco-Lotus mall, Crossroads has a quaint make their way to the deservedly popu- bluesy vibe enhanced by dim lighting and lar islands of Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan and live music. Try the oysters – Surat Thani is Ko Tao. famous for its giant molluscs, and the prices are unbeatable. 4 Sleeping KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI For a comfy night in Surat, escape the grimy 8 Information GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI city centre and hop on a sŏrng·tăa·ou head- Th Na Meuang has a bank on virtually every ing towards the Phang-Nga district. When corner in the heart of downtown. If you’re stay- you climb aboard, tell the driver ‘Tesco-Lo- ing near the ‘suburbs’, the Tesco-Lotus has tus’, and you’ll be taken about 2km to 3km ATMs as well. out of town to a large, box-like shopping Boss Computer (per hr 20B; h9am-midnight) centre. A handful of hotel options orbit the The cheapest internet connection around. mall and have reasonable prices and refresh- Located near the post office. ingly modern amenities. Post office (%0 7727 2013, 0 7728 1966; Th Options in the downtown area are cheap- Talat Mai; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am- er, but they tend to off er ‘by the hour’ serv- 12.30pm Sat) Across from Wat Thammabucha. ice, so things can get a bit noisy as clients The local One One People (OTOP) craft come and go. If you’re on a very tight budg- house is located inside. SURAT THANI PROVINCE THANI SURAT THANI et, consider zipping straight through town Siam City Bank (Th Chonkasem) Has a West- SLEEPING and taking the night ferry to reach your is- ern Union office. land destination. Taksin Hospital (%0 7727 3239; Th Talat Mai) The most professional of Surat’s three hospi- 100 Islands Resort & Spa RESORT $ tals. Just beyond the Talat Mai Market in the ( %0 7720 1150; www.roikoh.com; 19/6 Moo 3, northeast part of downtown. Bypass Rd; r 590-1200B; aiWs) Across the TAT office (%0 7728 8817; tatsurat@samart. street from the suburban Tesco-Lotus, 100 co.th; 5 Th Talat Mai; h8.30am-4.30pm) Islands is as good as it gets in Thailand Friendly office southwest of town. Distributes for under 600B. This teak palace looks out plenty of useful brochures and maps, and staff of place along the highway, but inside, the speak English very well. immaculate rooms surround an overgrown garden and lagoon-like swimming pool. 8 Getting There & Away In general, if you are departing Bangkok or Hua Wangtai Hotel HOTEL $$ Hin for Ko Pha-Ngan or Ko Tao, consider tak- ( %0 7728 3020; www.wangtaisurat.com; 1 Th Talad ing the train or a bus-boat package that goes Mai; r 790-2000B; aiWs) Across the river through Chumphon rather than Surat. You’ll from the TAT offi ce, Wangtai tries its best to save time, and the journey will be more com- provide a corporate hotel atmosphere. Polite fortable. Travellers heading to/from Ko Samui receptionists and tux-clad bellboys bounce will most likely pass through. If you require around the vast lobby, and upstairs, rooms any travel services, try Holiday Travel (Th Na have unmemorable furnishings, but there Meuang) or Pranthip Co (Th Talat Mai) – both are good views of the city. are reliable and English is spoken.

Air 5 Eating Although fl ights from Bangkok to Surat Thani are For foodstuff s, go to the night market (Sarn cheaper than the fl ights to Samui, it takes quite to enjoy fried, steamed, Chao Ma; Th Ton Pho) a bit of time to reach the gulf islands from the grilled or sautéed delicacies. There are ad- airport. In fact, if you are attempting to fl y back ditional evening food stalls near the depar- 588 e# 0200m Surat Thani 00.1miles A B C D

g a 2 # n y î# a ai 4 u h L C T t i h la S R a h u 1 T n T T n 1 o h g h T r T d o u #æ n n a a P T m B BAN h h Ta l a t M a i h o M T it T DON K Market h a Wit # s g 3 e T e n m h e a ›# C tad u 9 T h e h on M T k a T h a N a # s h T 7 1 e h N ›# 10 h BANG m T o o #ú kk ng BAN 5 ì# ow 2 MAI f# Ú# Wat 2 n Thammabucha o # T ð# i h D 8 a 6 T M T n h P ò# t r f# a r a i i e l A B P a a p rac mc T ì# n a h h hi h u T t s T a T KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI T o T h n h n P C r h ee o m d n a k a r a N it s e m S To TAT Office (880m); e ri T id 3 a S h -#Wangtai Hotel (1.1km); ut 3 M u aj r R To a Bus Terminal (4km); h Sunday t Crossroads Restaurant (4km); T Market Tesco-Lotus (4km); (720m)‚ ‚ 100 Islands Resort &Spa (4km) A 6 B C D Surat Thani ú Eating Lomprayah...... (see 7) SURAT THANI PROVINCE THANI SURAT 1 Night Market...... B2 6 NightBoattoKo Pha-Ngan...... B2 ï Information 7 Seatran Discovery...... B2 2 Holiday Travel ...... C1 8 Seatran Office...... C2 3 Pranthip Company ...... C1 Songserm...... (see 7) 4 Taksin Hospital ...... D1 9 Talat Kaset 1 Bus Terminal...... C2 ï Transport 10 Talat Kaset 2 Bus 5 Ko Tao Night Ferry Pier...... B2 Terminal...... D2

to Bangkok from the gulf islands, you’ll prob- as the Raja and Seatran services – leave from ably have to leave your beachside bungalow the Don Sak (about one hour from Surat; bus trans- evening before your fl ight and spend the night in fers are included in the ferry ticket) although the Surat. Not ideal. If you want to fl y through Surat, Songserm leaves from the heart of Surat town. there are daily shuttles to Bangkok on Thai Be warned that the Raja service can be a very Airways International (THAI; %0 7727 2610; frustrating experience, especially for travel- 3/27-28 Th Karunarat). lers who are tight on time. The boat trip usually takes around 90 minutes to Ko Samui and 2½ Boat hours to Ko Pha-Ngan, although oftentimes the In the high season travellers can usually fi nd captain will cut the engines to half propulsion, bus-boat services to Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan which means that the journey can take up to directly from the Phun Phin train station (which fi ve hours. is 14km west of Surat). These services don’t From the centre of Surat there are nightly fer- cost any more than those booked in Surat Thani ries to Ko Tao (eight hours, departs at 10pm), Ko and can save you some serious waiting time. Pha-Ngan (seven hours, departs at 10pm) and There are also several ferry and speedboat Ko Samui (six hours, departs at 11pm). These are operators that connect Surat Thani to Ko Tao, cargo ships, not luxury boats, so bring food and Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Samui. Most boats – such water and watch your bags. 589 Bus & Minivan 6am to 6pm daily (with a nebulous one-hour The most convenient way to travel around the lunch break somewhere between 11am and south, frequent buses and minivans depart from 1.30pm). two main locations in town known as Talat Kaset 1 and Talat Kaset 2. Talat Kaset 1, on the north 8 Getting Around side of Th Talat Mai (the city’s main drag) off ers Air-conditioned vans to/from Surat Thani airport speedy service to Nakhon. This is also the loca- cost around 70B per person and they’ll drop you tion of Pranthip Co, one of the more trustworthy off at your hotel. agencies in town. Buses to Phun Phin also leave from Talat Kaset 1. At Talat Kaset 2, on the south To travel around town, sŏrng·tăa·ou cost 10B side of Th Talat Mai, you’ll fi nd frequent trans- to 30B (it’s 15B to reach Tesco-Lotus from the portation to Hat Yai and minibuses to Nakhon, city centre), while săhm·lór (also spelt sǎamláw; Trang, Khanom and Krabi. Andaman-bound three-wheeled vehicles) charge between 20B buses (usually destined for Phuket) depart every and 40B. hour from 7am to 3.30pm, stopping at Takua Pa Fan-cooled Orange buses run from Phun Phin for those who want to access Khao Sok National train station to Surat Thani every 10 minutes Park. The ‘new’ bus terminal (which is actually a (15B, 25 minutes). For this ride, taxis charge a few years old now, but still referred to as new by cool 200B for a maximum of four people, while KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI the locals) is located 7km south of town on the share-taxis charge 100B per person. Other taxi GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI way to Phun Phin. This hub services traffi c to and rates are posted just north of the train station from Bangkok. (at the metal pedestrian bridge).

Train When arriving by train you’ll actually pull into NAKHON SI THAMMARAT Phun Phin, a cruddy town 14km west of Surat. From Phun Phin, there are buses to Phuket, PROVINCE Phang-Nga and Krabi – some via Takua Pa, a junction city further west and the stopping point for Khao Sok National Park. Transport from Ao Khanom อาวขนอม Surat moves with greater frequency, but it’s Little Khanom, halfway between Surat worth checking the schedule in Phun Phin fi rst – Thani and Nakhon Si Thammarat, quietly you might luck out and save yourself a slow ride sits along the blue gulf waters. Overlooked NAKHONAO SI KHANOM THAMMARAT PROVINCE between towns. 8 by tourists who fl ock to the jungle-islands If you plan on travelling during the day, go for the express railcars. Night travellers should nearby, this pristine region, simply called opt for the air-con couchettes. Odd-numbered Khanom, is a worthy choice for those seek- trains are travelling from Bangkok south – even- ing a serene beach setting unmarred by en- numbered trains are travelling in the opposite terprising corporations. direction. Trains passing through Surat stop in Chumphon and Hua Hin on their way up to the 1 Sights capital, and in the other direction you’ll call at The most unique feature in Khanom are the Trang, Hat Yai and Sungai Kolok before hopping pink dolphins – a rare albino breed with a the border. The train station at Phun Phin has a stunning pink hue. They are regularly seen 24-hour left-luggage room that charges around from the old ferry pier and the electric plant 20B a day. The advance ticket offi ce is open from pier around dawn and dusk.

WÁT SUAN MOKHAPHALARAM

Surrounded by lush forest, Wát Suan Mokkhaphalaram (Wat Suanmokkh; www.suan mokkh.org), whose name means ‘Garden of Liberation’, charges 2000B for a 10-day pro- gram that includes food, lodging and instruction (although technically the ‘teaching’ is free). English retreats, run by the International Dhamma Hermitage, begin on the fi rst day of every month and registration takes place the afternoon before. Founded by Ajan Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, arguably Thailand’s most famous monk, the temple’s philosophi- cal teachings are ecumenical in nature, comprising Zen, Taoist and Christian elements, as well as the traditional Theravada schemata. For details on reaching the temple, located 7km outside of Chaiya, check out www. suanmokkh-idh.org/idh-travel.html. 590 The area is also home to a variety of pris- Hwy 4014. The hillside is usually deserted, tine geological features including waterfalls making it easy to stop along the way to snap and caves. The largest of the falls, known some photos. as Samet Chun, has tepid pools for cooling off , and great views of the coast. To reach 4 Sleeping & Eating the falls, head south from Ban Khanom and In the last few years, there has been talk of turn left at the blue Samet Chun sign. Follow further developing Khanom’s beaches into the road for about 2km and after crossing a a more laid-back alterative to the islands small stream, take the next right and hike up nearby. The area is still far from booming, into the mountain following the dirt road. but large-scale development is on the cards. After about a 15-minute walk, listen for the A recent surge in gulf oil rigging has meant waterfall and look for a small trail on the that developers are eyeing Khanom as a po- right. The scenic Hin Lat Falls is the small- tential holiday destination for the nearby est cascade, but it’s also the easiest to reach. workers. There are pools for swimming and several There are enough options here that pre- huts providing shade. It’s located south of booking isn’t a must – in fact we advise Nai Phlao. checking out a few places before picking a KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI There are also two beautiful caves along spot to crash. Many of the resorts see very the main road (Hwy 4014) between Khanom few customers and the constant disuse (not and Don Sak. Khao Wang Thong has a regularly fl ushing the toilets etc) means that string of lights guiding visitors through the some rooms are dank as the relentless jun- network of caverns and narrow passages. gle reclaims them. It’s best to stay away from A metal gate covers the entrance; stop at the large hotels and stick to beachside bun- the house at the base of the hill to retrieve galow operations. the key (and leave a small donation). Turn For some cheap eats, head to Kho Khao right off the main highway at Rd 4142 to Beach at the end of Rd 4232. You’ll fi nd a fi nd Khao Krot Cave, which has two large steamy jumble of BBQ stands off ering some caverns, but you’ll have to bring a torch tasty favourites such as mŏo nám đòk (spicy (fl ashlight). pork salad) and sôm đam (spicy green papa- For a postcard-worthy vista of the undu- ya salad). On Wednesday and Sunday there NAKHON SI THAMMARAT PROVINCE lating coastline, head to Dat Fa Mountain, are markets further inland near the police located about 5km west of the coast along station.

JATUKHAM RAMMATHEP

If you’ve spent more than 24 hours in Thailand, you’ve probably seen a Jatukham Ram- mathep dangling around someone’s neck – these round amulets are everywhere. The bearers of the Jatukham Rammathep are supposed to have good fortune and protection from any harm. The origin of the amulet’s name remains a mystery, although a popular theory suggests that Jatukham and Rammathep were the aliases of two Sriva- jayan princes who buried relics under Nakhon’s Wat Phra Mahathat some 1000 years ago. A notorious Thai police detective fi rst wore the precious icon, and fi rmly believed that the guardian spirits helped him solve a particularly diffi cult murder case. He tried to pop- ularise the amulet, but it wasn’t a market success until his death in 2006. Thousands of people attended his funeral, including the crown prince, and the Jatukham Rammathep took off . The talismans are commissioned at the Mahathat temple, and in the last several years, southern Thailand has seen a spike in economic activity. The fi rst amulet was sold in 1987 for 39B, and today, over 100 million baht are spent on the town’s amulets every week. The desire for these round icons has become so frenzied that a woman was crushed to death on the temple grounds during a widely publicised discount sale (she was not wearing her talisman). Every day, trucks drive along Nakhon’s main roads blaring loud music to promote new shipments. These thumping beats have started to shake the ground beneath the temple, and the repeated hammering has, in an ironic metaphor, bent the main spire of Wat Mahathat. 591 Racha Kiri RESORT $$$ tioned as a major trade link between Thai- ( %0 7530 0245; www.rachakiri.com; bungalows land and the rest of the world. This ancient 3500-12,500B; aWs) Khanom’s upscale infl ux of cosmopolitan conceits is still palpa- retreat is a beautiful campus of rambling ble today, and can be found in the recipes of villas. The big price tag means no crowds, local cuisine, or housed in the city’s temples which can be nice, although the resort feels and museums. like a white elephant when the property isn’t being used as a corporate retreat. 1 Sights Most of Nakhon’s commercial activity (ho- Talkoo Beach Resort BUNGALOWS $$ tels, banks and restaurants) takes place in ( %0 7552 8397; bungalows 1470B; as) This the northern part of the downtown. South charming operation has dozens of snazzy of the clock tower, visitors will fi nd the city’s white cottages featuring quirky fi xtures historic quarter with the oft-visited Wat Ma- such as sinks made from hollowed-out tree hatat. Th Ratchadamnoen is the main thor- trunks. This is the best lodging option in the oughfare and teems with cheap sŏrng·tăa·ou vicinity. heading in both directions. Suchada Villa BUNGALOWS $ KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Wat Phra Mahathat GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI ( %0 7552 8459; bungalows 800B; a) Right along the main road, Suchada is recognis- Woramahawihaan TEMPLE The most important wát able by its cache of brightly coloured bunga- (Th Si Thamasok) in southern Thailand, Wat Phra Mahathat lows. Rooms are cute and clean with quirky Woramahawihaan (simply known as Mahat- designer details such as strings of shells hat) is a stunning campus boasting 77 chedi dangling in front of the bathroom doors. (stupa) and an imposing 77m chedi crowned by a gold spire. According to legend, Queen 8 Information Hem Chala and Prince Thanakuman The police station and hospital are located just brought relics to Nakhon over 1000 years south of Ban Khanom at the junction leading ago, and built a small pagoda to house the to Kho Khao Beach. There’s a 7-Eleven (with an precious icons. The temple has since grown ATM) in the heart of Ban Khanom. into a rambling site, and today, crowds gath- NAKHON SI SI THAMMARAT THAMMARAT PROVINCE er daily to purchase the popular Jatukham 8 8 Getting There & Away amulets (see opposite). Don’t miss the mod- From Surat Thani, you can catch any Nakhon- est ceramics museum inside. bound bus and ask to be let off at the junction for Khanom. Catch a motorcycle taxi (70B) the rest Shadow Puppets MUSEUM of the way. You can get a share taxi from Nakhon (Th Si Thamasok Soi 3) Traditionally, there are Si Thammarat’s share-taxi terminal to Khanom two styles of local shadow puppet: năng town for 85B. đà·lung and năng yài. At just under 1m From Khanom town you can hire motorcycle tall, the former feature movable appendages taxis out to the beaches for about 60B. There and parts (including genitalia); the latter are three separate bus stops in the vicinity. Ask are nearly life-sized, and lack moving parts. your driver to stop near the fruit market or the Both are intricately carved from cow hide. hospital, as these are the closest stops to the Suchart Subsin’s puppet house has a small beach. museum where staff can demonstrate the cutting process. Short shows can be per- formed for visitors for a nominal fee. Nakhon Si Thammarat อาเภอเมํ องนครศรื ธรรมราชี National Museum MUSEUM (Th Ratchadamnoen; admission 30B; h9am-4pm POP 117,100 The bustling city of Nakhon Si Thammarat Wed-Sun) When the Tampaling (also known (usually shortened to ‘Nakhon’) won’t win as Tambralinga) kingdom traded with mer- any beauty pageants. However, travellers chants from Indian, Arabic, Dvaravati and who stop in this historic town will enjoy a Champa states, the region around Nakhon decidedly cultural experience amid some of became a melting pot of crafts and art. To- the most important wát in the kingdom. day, many of these relics are on display be- Hundreds of years ago, an overland route hind the run-down facade of the national between the western port of Trang and the museum. eastern port of Nakhon Si Thammarat func- 592

KHAO LUANG NATIONAL PARK

Known for its beautiful mountain and forest walks, cool streams, waterfalls and or- chards, Khao Luang National Park (อทยานแหุ งชาต่ เขาหลวงิ ; %0 7530 9644-7; adult/child 400/200B) surrounds the 1835m peak of Khao Luang. This soaring mountain range reaches up to 1800m, and is covered in virgin forest. An ideal source for streams and rivers, the mountains show off impressive waterfalls and provide a habitat for a plethora of bird species – this place is a good spot for any budding ornithologist. Fans of fl ora will also get their kicks here; there are over 300 species of orchid in the park, some of which are found nowhere else on earth. Park bungalows can be rented for between 600B and 1000B per night, and sleep six to 12 people. Camping is permitted along the trail to the summit. To reach the park, take a sŏrng·tăa·ou (around 25B) from Nakhon Si Thammarat to the village of Khiriwong, at the base of Khao Luang. The entrance to the park and the offi ces of the Royal Forest De- partment are 33km from the centre of Nakhon on Rte 4015, an asphalt road that climbs

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI almost 400m in 2.5km to the offi ce and a further 450m to the car park.

4 Sleeping & Eating Rock 99 INTERNATIONAL $ Nakhon is a great place to sample cuisine (1180/807 Bavorn Bazaar; dishes 40-130B; hdin- with a distinctive southern twist. In the ner) The choice fa·ràng hang-out in Nakhon, evening, Muslim food stands sell delicious Rock 99 has a good selection of internation- kôw mòk gài (chicken biryani), má·đà·bà al fare – from taco salads to pizzas (avoid (murdabag; Indian pancake stuff ed with the Thai fare though). There’s live music on chicken or vegetables) and roti. Several tasty Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, but options cluster around Bovorn Bazaar on Th expect to bump into friendly expats almost Ratchadamnoen. all the time.

Nakorn Garden Inn GUEST HOUSE $ Information

NAKHON SI THAMMARAT PROVINCE 8 ( %0 7532 3777; 1/4 Th Pak Nakhon; r 445B; a) Several banks and ATMs hug Th Ratchadamnoen The motel-style Nakorn Garden Inn off ers in the northern end of downtown. There is an a pleasant alternative to the usual cement English-language bookstore on the 3rd fl oor of cube. Rooms are encased in exposed crim- Robinson Ocean shopping mall. son brick and set around a sandy garden. Bovorn Bazaar (Th Ratchadamnoen) A mall Each unit is identical, sporting a TV and housing a few internet cafes. fridge; try to score a room that gets plenty Police station (%1155; Th Ratchadamnoen) of sunlight. Opposite the post office. Post office (Th Ratchadamnoen; h8.30am- Twin Lotus Hotel HOTEL $$ 4.30pm) ( %0 7532 3777; www.twinlotushotel.net; 97/8 Th TAT office (%0 7534 6515) Housed in a Phattanakan Khukhwang; r 1400-1600B; aWs) 1926-vintage building in the northern end of the Its age is starting to show, but Twin Lotus is Sanam Na Meuang (City Park). Has some useful still a nice spot for a little pampering while brochures in English. The local OTOP craft visiting Nakhon. This 16-storey behemoth house is just a block away on the west side of sits a couple of kilometres southeast of the Sanam Na Meuang Park. city centre. Getting There & Away Khrua Nakhon THAI $$ 8 (Bovorn Bazaar; dishes 60-200B; hbreakfast & Air Several small carriers such as , Air lunch) This joint has a great selection of Asia and Orient Thai Airlines (plus ) traditional Nakhon cuisine. Order a shar- fl y from Bangkok to Nakhon everyday. There are ing platter, which comes with fi ve types of about six daily one-hour fl ights. curry (including an unpalatable spicy fi sh Trains There are two daily train departures from sauce), or try the kôw yam (southern-style Bangkok to Nakhon (stopping through Hua Hin, rice salad). There’s one at a second location Chumphon and Surat Thani along the way). They in Robinson Ocean Mall. are both 12-hour night trains leaving at 5.35pm and 7.15pm. These trains continue on to Hat Yai and Sungai Kolok. 593 Bus Buses from Bangkok depart either between 1 Sights 6am and 8am, or between 5.30pm and 10pm. National Museum MUSEUM There are about seven daily departures. Ordi- nary buses to Bangkok leave from the bus ter- (พพิ ธภิ ณฑสถานแหั งชาต่ สงขลาิ ; Th Wichianchom; ad- minal, but a couple of private buses leave from mission 150B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun, closed public booking offi ces on Th Jamroenwithi, where you holidays) The 1878 building that now houses can also buy tickets. The journey takes 12 hours. the national museum was originally built When looking for minivan stops to leave in a Chinese architectural style as the resi- Nakhon, keep an eye out for small desks along dence of a luminary. This museum is easily the side of the downtown roads (minivans and the most picturesque national museum in waiting passengers may or may not be present Thailand and contains exhibits from all Thai nearby). It’s best to ask around as each destina- art-style periods, particularly the Srivijaya. tion has a diff erent departure point. Krabi and Also on display are Thai and Chinese ceram- Don Sak minivans are grouped together – just ics and sumptuous Chinese furniture owned make sure you don’t get on the wrong one. Stops by the local Chinese aristocracy. are scattered around Th Jamroenwithi, Th Wa- khit and Th Yommarat. Hat Samila BEACH ( หาดสมหลาิ ) If museums aren’t your style, KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI 8 Getting Around head to the beach. The residents have be- GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Sŏrng·tăa·ou run north–south along Th Ratch- gun taking better care of the strip of white adamnoen and Th Si Thammasok for 10B (a bit sand along Hat Samila, and it is now quite more at night). Motorcycle-taxi rides start at pleasant for strolling or fl ying a kite (a local 20B and cost up to 50B for longer distances. obsession). A bronze Mermaid sculpture, depicted squeezing water from her long hair in tribute to Mae Thorani (the Hindu- Buddhist earth goddess), sits atop some rocks at the northern end of the beach. Lo- Songkhla’s postal code is 90210, but this cals treat the fi gure like a shrine, tying the ain’t no Beverly Hills! The province’s two waist with coloured cloth and rubbing the main commercial centres, Hat Yai and Song- breasts for good luck. Next to that are the khla, are not usually aff ected by the political Cat and Rat sculptures, named for the SONGKHLA & PROVINCE AROUND turmoil plaguing the cities further south. Cat and Rat Islands (Ko Yo and Ko Losin). 8 Intrepid travellers will be able to count the Fragments of a dragon statue are sliced up number of other tourists on one hand as and placed around the city. The Nag Head they wander through local markets, savour (dragon head), which shoots water into Muslim-Thai fusion cuisine and relax on the ocean, is said to bring prosperity and breezy beaches. fresh water – it’s a popular meeting spot for locals.

Songkhla & Around สงขลา Ko Yo ISLAND ( เกาะยอ) A popular day trip from Songkhla, POP 90,780 ‘The great city on two seas’ lends itself per- this island in the middle of Thale Sap is ac- fectly to the click of a visitor’s camera; how- tually connected to the mainland by bridg- ever, slow-paced Songkhla doesn’t see much es and is famous for its cotton-weaving in the way of foreign tourist traffi c. Although industry. There’s a roadside market selling the town hasn’t experienced any of the Mus- cloth and ready-made clothes at excellent lim separatist violence plaguing the provinc- prices. es further south, it’s still catching the same If you visit Ko Yo, don’t miss Wat Phra- bad press. This is a darn shame, since it’s the horn Laemphor, with its giant reclining last safe city where travellers can experience Buddha, and check out the Thaksin Folk- the unique fl avour of Thailand’s predomi- lore Museum (%0 7459 1618; admission 100B; nately Muslim Deep South. h8.30am-4.30pm), which actively aims to The population is a mix of Thais, Chinese promote and preserve the culture of the re- and , and the local architecture and gion, and is a must-see. The pavilions here cuisine refl ect this fusion at every turn. are reproductions of southern Thai–style houses and contain folk art, handicrafts and traditional household implements. 594 If you have kids in tow, try the following: 8 Information Songkhla Zoo ZOO Banks can be found all over town. ( สวนสตวั สงขลา์ ; Khao Rup Chang; adult/child 30/5B; Indonesian Consulate (%0 7431 1544; Th h9am-6pm) Enjoy cuddling with baby tigers. Sadao) Malaysian Consulate (%0 7431 1062; 4 Th Songkhla Aquarium AQUARIUM Sukhum) ( สงขลาอะควาเรยม่ี ; www.songkhlaaquarium.com; Police station (%0 7432 1868; Th Laeng Phra adult/child 150/80B; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon) Ram) North of the town centre. Point at clownfish at this flashy new Post office (Th Wichianchom) Opposite the attraction. market; international calls can be made up- stairs. 4 Sleeping & Eating Songkhla’s hotels tend to be lower priced than 8 Getting There & Around other areas in the gulf, which makes going up Trains From Songkhla you’ll have to go to Hat Yai a budget level a relatively cheap splurge. to reach most long-distance destinations in the For quality seafood, head to the street in south (trains no longer pass through town).

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI front of the BP Samila Beach Hotel – the Buses The government bus station is located best spot is the restaurant directly in the a few hundred metres south of the Viva Hotel. roundabout. If market munching is your Three 2nd-class buses go daily to Bangkok, game, you’ll fi nd a place to sample street stopping in Chumphon, Nakhon Si Thammarat food every day of the week. On Sundays try and Surat Thani, among other places. For Hat the bustling market that encircles the Pavil- Yai, buses and minivans take around 40 min- ion Hotel. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday utes, and leave from Th Ramwithi. Sŏrng·tăa·ou feature a night market (which closes around also leave from here for Ko Yo. 9pm) near the local fi sh plant and bus sta- tion, and the Friday-morning market sits diagonally opposite the City Hall. Hat Yai หาดใหญ POP 157,400 BP Samila Beach Hotel HOTEL $$ Welcome to backcountry Thailand’s version ( %0 7444 0222; www.bphotelsgroup.com; 8 Th of big city livin’. Songkhla Province’s liveliest SONGKHLA PROVINCE Ratchadamnoen; r 1680-2500B; ais) A land- town has long been a favourite stop for Ma- mark in quaint Songkhla, the city’s poshest laysian men on their weekend hooker tours. address is actually a really good deal – you’d These days Hat Yai gladly shakes hands pay nearly double for the same amenities on with globalisation – Western-style shopping the islands. The beachfront establishment malls stretch across the city, providing local off ers large rooms with fridges, satellite TVs teenagers with a spot to loiter and middle- and a choice of sea or mountain views (both aged ladies with a place to do their cardio. are pretty darn good). Tourists usually only get a glimpse of the city’s winking commercial lights from Green World Palace Hotel HOTEL $$ the window of their train carriage as they ( %0 7443 7900-8; 99 Th Samakisukson; r 1000- connect the dots along the peninsula, but 1200B; aiWs) When expats say that sleep- those who decide to explore will be reward- ing in Songkhla is a steal, they’re not lying – ed with excellent local cuisine (the city has Green World is the proof. This classy aff air hundreds of restaurants), shopping (DVDs boasts chandeliers, a spiralling staircase in anyone?) and an evening bar scene that the lobby and a 5th-fl oor swimming pool with brilliantly mixes cosy pubs and bouncing views. Rooms are immaculate and fi lled with discotheques. all the mod cons of a hotel twice the price. Khao Noy CURRY SHOP $ 4 Sleeping & Eating ( %0 7431 1805; 14/22 Th Wichianchom; dishes Hat Yai has dozens of hotels within walk- 30-50B; hbreakfast & lunch Thu-Tue) Songkhla’s ing distance of the train station. The city is most lauded ráhn kôw gaang (curry shop) the unoffi cial capital of southern Thailand’s serves up an amazing variety of authentic cuisine, off ering Muslim roti and curries, southern-style curries, soups, stir-fries and Chinese noodles and dim sum, and fresh salads. Look for the glass case holding sev- Thai-style seafood from both the gulf and eral stainless-steel trays of food just south of Andaman coasts. On Th Niyomrat, between the sky-blue Chokdee Inn. Niphat Uthit 1 and 2, starting at Tamrab 595 Muslim, is a string of casual and inexpen- from the centre of town. Buses link Hat Yai to sive Muslim restaurants open from about almost any location in southern Thailand. 7am to 9pm daily. Meals at these places cost Prasert Tour (Th Niphat Uthit 1) conducts between 20B to 60B. minibuses to Surat Thani (4½ hours, 8am to The night market (Th Montri 1) boasts 5pm), and Cathay Tour (93/1 Th Niphat Uthit 2) heaps of local eats including several stalls can also arrange minivans to many destinations selling the famous Hat Yai-style deep-fried in the south. chicken and kà·nŏm jeen (fresh rice noodles Train served with curry), as well as a couple of There are four overnight trains to/from Bangkok stalls peddling grilled seafood. each day, and the trip takes at least 16 hours. There are also seven trains daily that run along Regency Hotel HOTEL $$ the east coast to Sungai Kolok and two daily ( %0 7435 3333-47; www.theregencyhatyai.com; 23 trains running west to Butterworth and Padang Th Prachathipat; r 798-5680B; ais) This beau- Besar, both in . tiful hotel has that grand old-world charm There is an advance booking offi ce and left- that’s so very rare nowadays. Rooms in the luggage offi ce at the train station; both are open old wing are smaller (and cheaper) and fea- 7am to 5pm daily. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI ture attractive wood furnishings, while the GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI new wing boasts amazing views. 8 Getting Around Sor Hueng 3 THAI $ An Airport Taxi Service (%0 7423 8452; 182 Th ( %08 1896 3455; 79/16 Th Thamnoonvithi; dishes Niphat Uthit 1) makes the run to the airport four 30-120B; hdinner) This popular local legend times daily (80B per person, 6.45am, 9.30am, with branches all over town prepares heaps 1.45pm and 6pm). A private taxi for this run of delicious Thai-Chinese and southern Thai costs 280B. faves. Simply point to whatever looks good Sŏrng·tăa·ou run along Th Phetkasem (10B per or order something freshly wok-fried from person). Túk-túk and motorcycle taxis around the extensive menu. town cost 20B to 40B per person. 8 Information DEEP SOUTH DEEPYALA SOUTH Immigration Office (Th Phetkasem) Near the 8 railway bridge, it handles visa extensions. TAT Office ([email protected]; 1/1 Soi 2, Th Niphat Uthit 3) Very helpful staff here speak Yala ยะลา excellent English and have loads of info POP 65,000 on the entire region. Landlocked Yala feels quite diff erent from the neighbouring towns. The city’s gaping Tourist police (Th Niphat Uthit 3; h24hr) Near boulevards and well-organised street grid the TAT office. feels distinctly Western, especially since Yala is predominantly a university town. Getting There & Away 8 Yala’s biggest attraction is Wat Kuha Pi Air Muk (also called Wat Na Tham or Cave- Thai Airways International (THAI; 182 Th front Temple), 8km west of town on the Niphat Uthit 1) operates eight fl ights daily be- road connecting Yala to Hat Yai (Rte 409). tween Hat Yai and Bangkok. This Srivijaya-period cave temple features Nearly all of the low-cost airlines now operate a reclining Buddha that dates back to AD fl ights to and from Bangkok: 757. A statue of a giant guards the temple’s Air Asia (www.airasia.com) Daily flights from entrance, and inside small natural openings Hat Yai to Bangkok and Kuala Lumpar. in the cave’s roof let in the sun’s rays to il- Nok Air (www.nokair.com) Daily flights be- luminate a variety of ancient Buddhist cave tween Hat Yai and Bangkok’s Don Muang drawings. Wat Kuha Pi Muk is one of the Airport. most important pilgrimage points in south- Bus ern Thailand. Most interprovincial buses and south-bound Take a breather from wát ogling and minivans leave from the bus terminal 2km south- check out what is known as the largest mail east of the town centre, while most north-bound box in Thailand, built in the township of minivans now leave from a minivan terminal 5km Betong in 1924. Betong also functions as a west of town at Talat Kaset, a 60B túk-túk ride legal, but inconvenient, border crossing to 596

TROUBLE IN THE DEEP SOUTH

Background Patrick Winn Thailand’s southernmost frontier is lush, green and prone to violence. Though the three provinces in Thailand’s deep south were conquered by the Siamese kingdom more than 100 years ago, a regional insurgency still kicks and screams for independence. Armed separatists dream of reclaiming ‘’, a Qatar-sized Muslim sultanate that perished long before today’s insurgents were even born. Along with much of the Malay-In- donesian archipelago, the region absorbed Islamic beliefs from 13th-century Arab traders. The kingdom existed for about 500 years until 1902, when it was seized by Buddhist Siam and carved into three provinces: Yala, Narathiwat, Pattani and parts of neighbouring Satun. But the deep south has never truly assimilated with Thailand. After a relative lull of violence in the 1980s and ’90s, the independence struggle is now raging harder than ever. Deaths have reached 4600 since 2004, a year marking the revival of violent struggle.

KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Despite separatists’ semi-secret peace talks with the Royal Thai Army, few expect the low- grade civil war to end anytime soon. Killings occur at a daily clip. Shock tactics rival those of insurgents in Iraq or Pakistan. Beheadings of monks and kids are recurrent. Teachers, seen as agents of cultural assimila- tion, are shot dead en route to morning lessons. Rubber farmers are gunned down with AK-47 fi re simply for having good relations with Buddhist neighbours. The separatists are also growing more sophisticated and savvy. Their roadside bombs were once built from Tupperware, C-4 and rusty nails. They have since graduated to radio- control detonators and complex attacks, which fi rst wipe out unlucky civilians and then responding bomb squads with secondary bombs planted nearby. What compels insurgents to such extremes? According to separatists, they must resist ‘Siamese Infi dels’ forcing Buddhist culture down their throats. As far back as 1939, the Thai state shut down the region’s Islamic schools and Qu’ranic sharia law courts. The local Yawi dialect was forbidden in government offi ces. DEEP SOUTH Locals still bemoan the indignity of visiting government bureaus where imported offi cials can’t speak their local tongue. The army also enforces a ‘state of emergency’ – essentially martial law – that limits the rights of those arrested. Muslim groups com- plain that men are falsely accused and never come home. Powerful positions, from army offi cers to police chiefs to mayors, are typically held by Thai Buddhists and not local Muslims. Two army scandals have helped galvanise disdain for the Thai state: the and Krue Sae events of 2004. The former saw roughly 80 Muslim protesters in the town of Tak Bai, Narathiwat, stacked in a truck’s sweltering cargo hold until they suff ocated. In the lat- ter incident, troops stormed a mosque called Krue Sae in Pattani and gunned down more than 30 suspected insurgents. The alleged separatists were armed with knives and a single gun. The army insists both incidents were accidental. Perhaps the separatists’ most unique feature is their ironclad code of silence. Thai sol- diers say combating the insurgency is akin to fi ghting ghosts. The self-proclaimed ‘Patani Mujahedin’ run what one academic calls a network without a core: a patchwork of village- based cells operating independently. The various resistance groups share common ideals but no common leader. Accounts vary, but the various networks are believed to control roughly 8000 separatists. Unlike al-Qaeda or the Taliban, they seldom claim responsibility for attacks, preferring silence to glory. Leafl ets scattered around victims’ corpses are the insurgents’ preferred method of com- munication. One typical screed reads: ‘Make violence brutally. Attack the Buddhist Thais. We know that the Buddhist Thais do not like violence and love peace. When the Buddhist Thais cannot stand, they will surrender.’ As intended, killings have stoked Buddhist fl ight en masse. In parts of the army’s so- called ‘red zone’, vestiges of the Thai state control, such as schools and even postal routes, 597

are few and far between. Monks dare not go on alms runs without M-16-gripping soldiers at their sides. At times, according to some experts, as many as 25% of the deep south’s vil- lages have at some point fallen under de facto insurgency control. The insurgency is noted for its reluctance to attack targets outside the deep south, which is likely the reason the confl ict attracts scant global interest. The greater region off ers targets that, if attacked, would deal great damage to the psyche of Thailand and its tourists. But separatists have left alone the backpacker beaches of Krabi, Phuket’s resorts and even Bangkok, the heart of the Thai authority. Likewise, insurgents appear uninterested in joining forces with al-Qaeda or Islamic terror groups in Pakistan or . One senior member of the oldest insurgent group, the Patani United Liberation Organi- zation, has insisted the insurgency will never solicit outside help. Though speaking only for one of several factions, he claims post-revolution Patani will warmly welcome Western tourists to its pristine beachfront. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI But for now, the violence has strangled regional tourism. Even if separatists are only GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI out to harm Thai Buddhists and Muslim collaborators, marketplace bombs kill indiscrimi- nately. Hotels classy enough to satisfy tourists have also come under attack; these are the same hotels favoured by high-ranking offi cers. The only reliable stream of tourism comes from Malaysian men travelling north for booze and rented female company. Still, given a spate of explosions outside dodgy night- clubs, they do so at a pronounced risk. But no matter how much blood the ‘Patani Mujahedin’ spill, they are unlikely to secure their stated goal: an independent Islamic state. Though most Thais view the deep south as a diff erent planet, heavy nationalism imbued in Thai schools has bred a population incapable of stomaching territorial loss. An authority fi gure who backed ceding Thai soil would risk political suicide. And though the Bangkok press chronicles daily killings in detail, the insurgency remains an afterthought to voters DEEPYALA SOUTH convinced terror will never creep outside the deep south. 8 Instead of Thai surrender, some version of autonomy is a more reasonable, but still distant, hope for insurgents and their sympathisers. Sporadic talks between Thai military offi cials and separatists in exile have taken place since the late 2000s. However, the army’s faith is shaken each time insurgency heads try to prove their authority through ceasefi res that are ignored by rebels on the ground. So a vexing question remains for Thailand’s military: how do you negotiate with a net- work with no core? Patrick Winn is the Southeast Asia correspondent for the Global Post foreign news agency Should You Go? Although it’s possible to visit the region, the insurgency has stifl ed tourism in the deep south to the extent that tourist infrastructure – hotels, restaurants, transportation and activities – is minimal. And the threat of violence means that exploring the area’s largely pristine and uninhabited beaches – ostensibly most travellers’ reason for visiting the re- gion – can’t generally be recommended. To date, tourists have not been targeted, but the haphazard nature of the insurgency makes it diffi cult to predict which way the situation will turn (and bombs kill indiscrimi- nately). If you plan to visit the region and want to know the situation on the ground, the authorities suggest contacting the local Tourist Police or TAT, but you’ll have to be pre- pared for pessimistic spiel. Generally speaking, travel in Pattani and Narathiwat in the early morning and late evening is discouraged, and independent travel via rented motorcycle carries considerable risk. While in urban areas, it’s probably also a good idea not to linger around parked motorcycles, as they have been used to carry remote-controlled bombs. Austin Bush, author of the Deep South section of this chapter 598 Malaysia; contact Yala’s immigration office and the newer town to the west. Along Th (%0 7323 1292) or see the boxed text, p600 Ruedi you can see what is left of old Pattani for details. architecture – the Sino-Portuguese style that was once so prevalent in this part of south- 4 Sleeping & Eating ern Thailand. On Th Arnoaru there are sev- The lack of tourism means great bargains eral very old, but still quite intact, Chinese- for a comfy bed. style homes. Thailand’s second-largest mosque is the Chang Lee Hotel HOTEL $ Matsayit Klang (Th Naklua Yarang), a tra- ( %0 7324 4600; www.yalasirichot.4t.com; 318 Th ditional structure with a green hue that is Sirirot; s & d 400-460B; a) A 15-minute walk probably still the south’s most important from the train station, the Chang Lee has mosque. It was built in the 1960s. plush rooms that cater to business travel- If it weren’t for the political unrest, Pat- lers. Facilities include a karaoke nightclub tani could be one of the better beach desti- and coff eeshop. nations in the region. Unfortunately, explor- Although inland, Yala has several excellent ing much of the area independently is not a seafood restaurants – there’s a cluster around safe option at this time, and there are plenty KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Th Pitipakdee and Th Sribumrung. Rice and of pretty beaches further north that are per- noodle stalls abound near the train station. fectly safe. Locals frequent Laem Tachi, a sandy 8 Getting There & Around cape that juts out over the northern end of Buses to Hat Yai (150B, 2½ hours) stop several Ao Pattani. It can be reached by boat taxi time a day on Th Sirirot, outside the Prudential from Pattani pier. Hat Talo Kapo, 14km east TS Life offi ce. Across the street is the stop for of Pattani near Yaring , is another other short- to medium-distance buses north. hot spot. And although it’s technically in Yala’s train station has four daily departures for Songkhla Province, Thepha district, 35km Bangkok (193B to 1675B, 18 to 22 hours) and northwest of Pattani, is the most developed seven for Sungai Kolok (41B to 917, two to three beach destination in the area. There you’ll hours). fi nd a few slightly aged resorts that cater mostly to middle-class Thais. At Hat Soi DEEP SOUTH Sawan, near the Songkhla–Pattani border, Pattani ปตตาน ี several families have set up informal beach- POP 118,000 front restaurants that are popular with Like a rebellious child that can never get weekend visitors. To reach Thepha, hop on along with his stepmother, Pattani has never any Songkhla-bound bus from Pattani (or quite adjusted to Thai rule. It was once the vice versa); mention the name of your resort heart and soul of a large Muslim principality and you’ll be deposited at the side of the that included the nearby provinces of Yala road for the brief walk to the beach. and Narathiwat. Although today’s political situation has stunted the area’s develop- 4 Sleeping & Eating ment, Pattani has a 500-year history of trad- PATTANI TOWN ing with the world’s most notorious imperial CS Pattani Hotel HOTEL $$ powerhouses. The Portuguese established ( %0 7333 5093; www.cspattanihotel.com; 299 Moo a trading post here in 1516, the Japanese 4, Th Nong Jik; r/ste incl breakfast 1000-1500/2500- passed through in 1605, the Dutch in 1609, 3500B; aiWs) If you are spending the and the British fl exed their colonial muscle night in Pattani, you might as well enjoy it. in 1612. The CS Pattani features a gorgeous colonial Yet despite the city’s interesting past, lobby, two pools, an excellent restaurant, there’s little of interest in Pattani except its a sauna and steam room…the list goes on. access to some decent nearby beaches. Un- It’s located about 2km west of the centre of fortunately, the ongoing insurgency (see the town. boxed text, p596 ) has made all but a handful of these sandy destinations unsafe for the Palace Hotel HOTEL $ independent traveller. ( %0 7334 9171; 10-12 Pipit Soi Talattewiwat 2; r 200- 700B; a) Despite its location in a grubby soi 1 Sights near the town market, the rooms here, in The Mae Nam Pattani (Pattani River) acts as particular those with air-con on the lower a divider between the older town to the east fl oors, are neat and comfortable. 599 Satay Jao Kao MUSLIM-THAI $ 1 Sights (37/20 Th Udomwithi; dishes 20-30B; h10am- Towards the southern end of Th Pichitbam- This well-respected open-air restau- 6pm) rung stands Matsayit Klang, a wooden rant serves beef satay local style with cubes mosque built in the Sumatran style. It was of rice and a sweet dipping sauce. Several reputedly built by a prince of the former other restaurants along Th Udomwithi come kingdom of Pattani over a hundred years ago. highly recommended by Pattani’s Muslim Just north of town is Hat Narathat, a foodies. 5km-long sandy beach fronted by towering THEPHA DISTRICT pines, which serves as a veritable public Sakom Cabana RESORT $$ park for locals. The beach is only 2km from ( %0 7431 8065; 136 Moo 4, Tambon Sakom; r the town centre – you can easily walk there 600-800B; a) Located about 40km from Pat- or take a săhm·lór. tani town, this basic resort features a clean Five kilometres south of town, Ao Manao compound with several attractive wooden used to be a popular sun and sand destina- duplex bungalows a short walk from the tion, but today it’s increasingly the stomping beach. ground of local fi shermen. KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI The tallest seated-Buddha image in south- GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI Information ern Thailand is at Wat Khao Kong, 6km 8 southwest on the way to the train station There are several banks along the southeastern in Tanyongmat. The image is 17m long and end of Th Pipit, near the Th Naklua Yarang inter- 24m high, and made of reinforced concrete section. covered with tiny gold-coloured mosaic tiles Internet cafe (cnr Th Peeda Talattewiwat 2 & that glint magically in the sun. Th Pipit; per hr 20B) Near Palace Hotel. Pattani Hospital (%0 7332 3411-14; Th Nong Sleeping & Eating Jik) 4 Most of the town’s accommodation is lo- Police station (%0 7334 9018; Th Pattani cated on and around Th Puphapugdee along Phirom) the Bang Nara River.

8 Getting There & Around Tanyong Hotel HOTEL $$ DEEPNARATHIWAT SOUTH Minivans are the region’s most popular mode ( %0 7351 1477; 16/1 Th Sophaphisai; r incl breakfast 8 of transport and there are frequent daytime 900-1700B; aW) A few decades ago this was departures to Hat Yai (100B, 1½ hours), Nar- undoubtedly Narathiwat’s most upscale ho- athiwat (100B, two hours), Songkhla (90B, 1½ tel, but the passing of time has rendered it a hours) and Sungai Kolok (130B, 2½ hours) at convenient and competent, although slight- various terminals around Pattani town. Ask at ly overpriced, choice. your hotel for the departure points. Buses to Bangkok (594B to 1187B, 15 to 16 hours) depart Ocean Blue Mansion HOTEL $ from the station near the CS Pattani Hotel. Local ( %0 7351 1109; 297 Th Puphapugdee; r 350-1500B; taxis can take you anywhere in town for 10B per a) This hotel/apartment is the only one in person. town to really take advantage of the river- front view. Rooms include a huge fridge and cable TV. Narathiwat นราธวาสิ POP 109,000 Jay Sani MUSLIM-THAI $ Sitting on the banks of the Bang Nara River, (50/1 Th Sophaphisai; dishes 30-60B) This is Narathiwat is probably the most Muslim where locals go for excellent Thai-Muslim large city in Thailand. Some of the Sino- food. Point to whatever curry or stir-fry Portuguese buildings lining the riverfront looks good, but be sure not to miss the sub- are over a century old, and some pleasant lime beef soup. beaches are just outside town. Unfortunate- Ang Mo CHINESE, THAI $ ly the security situation in this part of the (cnr Th Puphapugdee & Th Chamroonnara; dishes country (see the boxed text, p596 ) has suff o- 30-80B; hlunch & dinner) This exceedingly cated the little tourism that this region used popular Chinese restaurant is both cheap to see. Be sure to check the latest situation and tasty, and has even fed the likes of mem- before travelling to Narathiwat. bers of the Thai royal family. 600

BORDER CROSSING: SUNGAI KOLOK TO

The Thai border (h5am-9pm) is about 1km from the centre of Sungai Kolok or the train station. After completing border formalities, cross the bridge to the Malaysian border post, and then to an informal transport centre, where a share taxi to Kota Bharu, the capital of Malaysia’s Kelantan State, will cost about RM$8 per person (about 80B) or about RM$40 to charter the whole car yourself. The ride takes around 40 minutes. There are also buses to Kota Bharu for RM$4.50, taking about an hour. It’s possible to continue south by the so-called ‘jungle train’, but the closest station is at Pasir Mas, located along taxi/bus routes to Kota Bharu. Tak Bai, also in Narathiwat, and Betong, further south in Yala, are also legal cross- ing points for foreign tourists, but the abundance of transport and other infrastructure makes Sungai Kolok–Rantau Panjang the area’s most convenient crossing point.

8 Information dustries here revolve around border trade KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF LOWER & THE KO SAMUI and catering to weekending Malaysian men The Tourism Authority of Thailand offi ce (TAT; who are often looking for sex. Every night %nationwide call centre 1672, Narathiwat 0 7352 2411) is inconveniently located a few Soi Phuthon and the small strip behind the kilometres south of town, just across the bridge Marina Hotel come alive with booming bars on the road to Tak Bai. that make Pattaya or Patong look sedate in comparison. 8 Getting There & Around Sleeping & Eating Air Asia (%nationwide call centre 02 515 9999; 4 www.airasia.com; ) and Nok If you must stay the night in Sungai Kolok, Air (%nationwide call centre 1318; www.nokair. there’s a large assortment of hotels to choose co.th; Narathiwat Airport) each operate a daily from – most cater to the ‘by-the-hour’ fl ight to and from Bangkok (from 1790B, 90 clientele. minutes). Unfortunately, despite the mix of cultures

DEEP SOUTH Air-con buses to Bangkok and Phuket and and emphasis on tourism, Sungai Kolok is most minivans leave from the bus terminal (%0 defi nitely not a culinary destination. A small 7351 1552) 2km south of town on Th Rangae night market unfolds next to the immigra- Munka. Buses to Phuket (530B, 12 hours), which tion offi ce – exceptionally good and cheap originate in Sungai Kolok, pass Narathiwat eats can be got at the stall in the centre that three times daily at 7am, 9am and 6.30pm, and only has Chinese writing. continue via Pattani, Hat Yai, Songkhla, Trang, Krabi and Phang-Nga. Buses to Bangkok (669B Genting Hotel HOTEL $$ to 1296B, 15 hours) depart several times during ( %0 7361 3231; 250 Th Asia 18; r 620-720B, ste the day. 1520B; aWs) Geared towards the confer- Minivans heading to Hat Yai (150B, three ence trade, the Genting comes equipped hours), Pattani (100B, two hours), Songkhla with a pub and a karaoke lounge. There are (150B, two hours), Sungai Kolok (70B, one hour) some good, only slightly scuff ed, midrange and Yala (100B, 1½ hours) generally leave on an rooms, and it’s away from the seedier areas. hourly basis from 5am to 5pm. Narathiwat is small enough to navigate by foot, Merlin Hotel HOTEL $ although motorcycle taxis only charge 20B to ( %0 7361 8111; 68 Th Charoenkhet; r 480-700B; a) get around. Don’t let the lobby fool you – the rooms here are very plain indeed, but the Merlin’s a good choice if you need a cheap room with a view. Sungai Kolok สไหงโกลกุ POP 70,000 8 Information Although Narathiwat is offi cially the pro- In addition to the one at the border, there is an vincial capital, it’s a skinny wimp compared immigration offi ce (%0 7361 1231; Th Cha- to its bigger and brasher sibling, Sungai roenkhet; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) across Kolok. This soulless border town is the from the Merlin Hotel. A tourist police offi ce sits main southern coastal gateway between at the border. There are plenty of banks with Malaysia and Thailand, and the primary in- 601 KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF DEEPSUNGAI8 SOUTH KOLOK d t air L

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e it e v ( ed. y l ee the t e S Getting Around Getting o a peer n trict k (200B 1753B, to about 20 hours, departures o s o mak ommer L e Train Two dailyTwo trains connect Sungai KolokBang- to ko railway.co.th) or look at their website. four hours) depart hourly during daylight hours, hours, daylight during depart hourly hours) four from infront of the Genting Hotel. at 11.30am and 2.20pm). Local trains also make stops in Surat Thani, Nakhon Si Thammarat and Hat to check Yai; timetables and prices for other destinations contact the State Railway of Thailand 8 Motorcycle taxis zoom around town – it’ll cost you around 30B make to the ride between the city centre and the border. T er t

t ell it. © d. s t e ying the abo non-c y L a or r , f s w t digitally r onal, s y o 0 7361 2045) a ad this chap % ations Pt ou kno er w er is no or per t t uplo ublic one y e it f t P us station ( b ery e don’ ’ or a long v o us as (Th Asia 18; internet per hr 20B; e f o e ent. o this chap ou t ple , s t ont s ds onely Plane e Getting There & Away c 10am-9pm) Across from the Genting Hotel. or o ask y Bus & Minivan w t email it t on our sit our c ac The long-distance h 8 ATMs in townATMs as wellas foreign-exchange booths, which areopen during border-crossing hours. Internet CS © L is located east of downtown, from where there are three daily air-con buses for the 18-hour trip to Bangkok (720B to 1400B) between 9pm and 10pm. There are two early-morning buses that head to Phuket (580B), stopping in Krabi (460B) along the Minivans way. to Narathiwat (80B, one hour) depart on the half-hour from across from the train station. Minivans heading to Pattani (130B, 2½ hours), (90B) Yala and Hat (180B, Yai